Edible Rio Grande Valley Spring 2022

Priceless

No. 1 Spring 2022

EAT. DRINK. THINK. LOCAL.

Member of Edible Communities

WE’RE HOME HERE | RGV | BTX

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ISSUE INAUGURAL

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WHAT’S IN SEASON March-May

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EDIBLE NOTABLES

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FEATURE Let It Grow

12 IN THE KITCHEN What's Cookin' 15 COMMUNITY Surviving a Pandemic

20 NATURE Inviting Pollinators Into our Gardens 22 LET'S PLAY 24 MARKET GUIDE Market to Market 26 RECIPES Family Recipes 32 LAST SIP Spring Fling

ON THE COVER: Is there anything more RGV than chile pequins?

They grow wild and pack a punch.

Photo by Yvette Vela

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Why a magazine?

I seem to get that question a lot...

PUBLISHER Jacqueline Folacci

Para Versión en Espanõl

When I moved back to the Rio Grande Valley in June of 2020, I was curious to explore, to see how the Valley had grown and evolved, and what had changed over the past 10 years. Since food naturally is a love language for me, that meant seeking out local products, restaurants and markets across the RGV, hoping to meet new people along the way.

I soon realized that, throughout the Valley, food and our food culture are very similar. They cross county and international borders. Our region is unique, delicious and beautiful, and deserves to be celebrated. That’s one reason for the magazine. The other reason is more practical. When I was working in the New York City restaurant industry, I was very familiar with the Edible brand. Upon my return to the Valley, I reconnected with Letty, now our editor, and expressed how difficult the job market was proving to be.

I wondered where I could use my restaurant experience in curating unique experiences.

Letty mentioned edible Austin and suggested starting a Rio Grande Valley edition – and everything clicked! A year and half later, you’re holding our first issue.

Starting an edible title means we also became a part of Edible Communities. Twenty years ago, edible was established in Ojai, California. There are now more than 80 titles throughout North America, making Edible Communities the largest food media company dedicated to local food. We are the fifth edible magazine established in Texas, and we will be the first to produce bilingual content and go south of the border. Our mission at edible Rio Grande Valley is to celebrate, inform and transform the way South Texans eat by connecting them to local food growers, producers and makers. We want to share their stories, thereby strengthening the local food economy and creating a sustainable local food system.

We will publish the magazine quarterly, distributed throughout the Valley and in Northern Mexico. Also, a monthly newsletter will be produced and we will curate exciting food events across the Rio Grande Valley. Sign up for our newsletter to get all the details. Our hope is to build an edible RGV community Valley-wide.

The edible Rio Grande Valley team is able to bring this magazine to you thanks to our trailblazing advertisers who chose to sign up for our inaugural issue. We thank them for their support, and we invite you to support these wonderful local businesses.

You can stay current with all things edible RGV by following us on Facebook, Instagram and Twitter. We hope you’ll share our stories with your friends and family.

Thank you for joining us as we embark on this new adventure...Vámonos!

Are you a writer? Photographer?

Maybe you have a story you would like to pitch?

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PHOTO EDITOR Yvette Vela CONTRIBUTORS Chris Ardis Noelle Bresson Sylvia Casares Jackie Castillo Steve Clark Larry Delgado Melissa Guerra Emily Holbrook Daniela Loera Dr. Julie Mustard Cecilia Sierra Michel Flores Tavizón LAYOUT DESIGN Matt and Tina Freeman COPY EDITORS Doresa Banning Marci Caltabiano-Ponce TRANSLATORS Jimena Cardenas Daniela Sacramento AD DESIGN Michel Flores Tavizón Martin Villareal EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS Noelle Bresson Cece de la Garza ADVERTISING advertise@ediblergv.com CONTACT US hola@ediblergv.com Edible Rio Grande Valley is published quarterly by GC Publishing LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be used without written permission of the publisher. ©2022 Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If however, an error comes to your attention, please accept our sincere apologies and notify us at hola@ediblergv.com.

Want to join the team?

Please reach out to letty@ediblergv.com to introduce yourself.

EDITOR Letty Fernandez

Edible Rio Grande Valley is published by Edible Communities.

Edible Communities Publications of the Year (2011)

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What’s In Season March-May

Beans Beets ** Bell Peppers *** Broccoli ** Cabbage ** Cantaloupes *** Carrots Celery Cucumbers ** Field Peas **

Grapefruits ** Green Cabbage Green Onions ** Greens ** Honeydew *** Kohlrabi Lettuce Melons *** Mushrooms Onions

Oranges ** Potatoes Snap Peas Spinach * Squash Sweet Peppers *** Tomatoes Turnips Watermelons *** Zucchini

What to Plant Corn * Cucumber * Eggplant * Honeydew Hot Peppers * Lima Beans * Okra Peas Pumpkin Snap Peas * Summer Squash Sweet Peppers * Sweet Potatoes Tomatoes * Watermelon Winter Squash

March Only * March & April ** May Only ***

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3230 Pablo Kisel Blvd. Ste. F-102 (956) 504-5858 lapamparestaurant.us

805 Media Luna Rd. Ste. 800 (956) 504-3100 madeirarestaurant.net

3230 Pablo Kisel Blvd. Ste. F-101 (956) 435-9901

BROWNSVILLE, TX edibleriograndevalley.com

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NOTABLE EDIBLES

Two Valley BBQ Restaurants honored by Texas Monthly New customers are flocking to Teddy’s Barbecue in Weslaco and Vera’s Backyard Bar-B-Que in Brownsville ever since they made Texas Monthly’s 50 Best BBQ Joints list in 2021.

Vera’s, on 2402 Southmost Road, opened in 1955 and is the last location in Texas to cook its meat in an underground pit. Pitmaster/owner Armando “Mando” Vera uses mesquite in an underground brick-lined pit.

“The real draw...is the barbacoa de cabeza,” TM says.

Teddy’s Barbecue, on 2807 N. Texas Blvd., opened in 2019, with brothers Jesse and Joel Garcia “dishing out Central Texas-style barbecue that is a study in pepper,” according to TM. The Rio Grande Valley siblings have worked in several well-known Austin barbecue restaurants and their mom makes their tortillas.

For the complete TM listing, visit texasmonthly.com.

Sylvia’s Restaurant Makes The New York Times 2021 Restaurant List Life changed for Sylvia’s Restaurant, in Brownsville’s Southmost, once The New York Times published The Restaurant List for 2021, declaring: “Sylvia’s stands apart—not just for the sheer volume of Dallas Cowboys paraphernalia papering the walls, but for dishes like the machacado con huevo a la Mexicana.”

Check out Sylvia’s Restaurant at 1843 Southmost Road in Brownsville.

Moonshine, in Port Isabel?

Master distiller Jerrod Henry has moved his Rio Grande Distillery from Los Fresnos to Lighthouse Square in Port Isabel and it is open for business. He sells 100-proof straight and flavored moonshine under the Magic Valley Moonshine label. Henry also offers gourmet hot dogs, paninis and pulled pork.

A native of the Missouri Ozarks, Henry in 2019 won the top prize in the mezcal category of a Master Distiller competition on “Moonshiners,” on the Discovery Channel.

Rio Grande Distillery is located at 110 N. Garcia St.

2F Akaushi Beef Wins 2021 H-E-B’s Quest for Texas Best Humbled and incredibly grateful is how the producers of 2F Akaushi Beef felt after they won first place in H-E-B’s Quest for Texas Best!

Felo and Stephanie Martinez are the owners of Rancho Santa Fe located south of San Isidro, Texas. The family owned and operated ranching business has been breeding, producing and raising commercial cattle since 1984.

In 2018, a beef processing plant opened at Rancho Santa Fe, making it the only federal and state inspected plant in the Rio Grande Valley. The Martinez family sells premium 2F Wagyu beef locally to restaurants and households and ships it nationwide. In March, look for 2F Akaushi Beef on H‑E‑B shelves. Visit its website, 2fakaushibeef.com.

Downtown Brownsville on the 2022 Texas Bucket List The January issue of Texas Highways magazine has put Downtown Brownsville on its 2022 Travel Bucket List.

Highlighted were Terras Urban Mexican Kitchen, Dodici Pizza & Wine, Las Ramblas Cocktail Lounge, and 7th & Park Bike Shop and Cafe.

Serving Up Support for Women-Owned Restaurants Congratulations to Raquel Rivera of BONHOMÍA restaurant of McAllen and Sylvia Ann Olivarez of Monte Carlo Cafe of Donna.

They were awarded $2,500 grants from the Texas Conference for Women. More than 100 women-owned Texas restaurants that have managed to stay in business during the pandemic received the grants. The Texas Conference for Women awarded a total of $267,500 to 107 restaurant owners. The grants were administered in partnership with the Texas Restaurant Association. Visit txconferenceforwomen.org to meet the other grant recipients.

Know someone who should be in Notable Edibles? Share the information at hola@ediblergv.com. edibleriograndevalley.com

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LET IT

GROW T

From Cattle to Crops

STORY BY STEVE CLARK | PHOTOS BY EMILY HOLBROOK & JACQUELINE FOLACCI

he Rio Grande Valley has long been legendary as a

produce powerhouse, feeding markets from Texas to Canada. But agriculture in deep South Texas originally walked on four legs.

That’s according to Rod Santa Ana, a former communications specialist with the Texas A&M AgriLife Research and Extension Center in Weslaco, who made a deep dive into Valley agricultural history before retiring in 2017.

The region was dominated by cattle for about 150 years, according to Santa Ana, thanks to José de Escandón, sent by Spanish authorities in Mexico City to colonize what was then part of the Spanish colony of Nuevo Santander.

“Escandón brought about 6,000 settlers with him, and they were successful way beyond what they expected,” Santa Ana said. “They established 24 villages, 15 missions and about 20 ranches with about 90,000 head of cattle.”

Water was the problem though, ironic, considering the proximity of the mighty Rio Grande.

“They had no way of getting water up and over the banks of the river, so they dug these deep wells for sweet water,” he said. “Once they tapped into sweet underground water, they would work these wells 24 hours a day to keep up with filling the troughs for the cattle.”

The business of raising and selling cattle and cattle byproducts to Mexico survived the Mexican War of Independence and the Mexican-American War and continued through about 1900. edibleriograndevalley.com

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“Texas produces the best grapefruit in the entire United States and in the entire world.

That is something that no one else will likely dispute and could not dispute. That’s not just based on taste preference.

That’s based on science.”

From Cattle to Crops

“By 1910 everything changed thanks to the new technology of the day — the invention of the centrifugal pump — the railroad, electricity to make ice to pack vegetables on the railroad trips, improved farm equipment — and eventually that led to the world’s largest private irrigation system,” Santa Ana said.

Between 1900 and 1910, 50 steam-engine pump houses were built along the Rio Grande for irrigation. Growers couldn’t plant fast enough.

Outside money poured in until Valley farmland peaked at around 1 million acres, he said.

“It exploded,” Santa Ana said. “Land prices went through the roof.

In 1906, you could buy an acre of farmland for $0.25. But by 1910, it had gone up to $300 an acre.”

The Sweet Smell of Citrus Success

The first railroad car full of Valley-grown grapefruit was shipped from McAllen in 1915. Grapefruit eventually covered 120,000 acres of Valley farmland, with the ruby red becoming an international celebrity. Santa Ana estimates Valley agriculture reached its zenith sometime in the early 1950s.

A devastating freeze in 1951 brought Valley citrus to its knees. It happened again, in 1962, 1983 and 1989, not to mention February 2021.

Today, the Valley is down to about 24,000 acres of citrus, though South Texas grapefruit has never been more prized. The ruby was crossed with the Rio red to produce the brilliant Rio star.

Russon Holbrook, part owner and senior vice president of Mission-based South Tex Organics, the state’s largest producer of organic grapefruit, said the Rio star is redder, juicier and better tasting than its predecessors.

“Florida and California have a larger citrus industry than Texas, in terms of acreage and things like that, but here’s what everyone will say: Texas produces the best grapefruit in the entire United States and in the entire world,” he said. “That is something that no one else will likely dispute and could not dispute. That’s not just based on taste preference.

That’s based on science.”

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Above: Workers picking Valley grapefruit’s superiority limes at the South Tex owes much to the perfect soil deOrganics citrus grove in posited by a flooding Rio Grande Mission. Top Right: Organic green cabbage grown by over the millennia before dams and Tenaza Farm in Los Fresnos levees.

Right: Tenaza field ready to be planted.

Holbrook’s citrus can be found in the Valley at the three Earth Born Markets he owns in McAllen, but most gets shipped out of state, even into Canada. Whole Foods is one of his largest buyers.

Versatile Valley

The Valley grows an enormous array of crops, from sugarcane to bok choy and a lot in between. If it can be grown, there’s a good chance someone has tried to grow it here. Since it was founded in 1923, the Weslaco AgriLife Center has helped farmers figure it out.

“A lot of crops came and went here: avocados, grapes — all kinds of varieties,” Santa Ana said. “But the mainstays are the five we had in the beginning and we still have now: vegetables, citrus, sugarcane, cotton and grains.”

In another bit of irony, the urbanization that Valley agriculture drove over the past century is chipping away at farmland as development expands. Even if the Valley’s agricultural heyday is in the rearview mirror, the region still contributes $1 billion to the Texas economy via crops, livestock and ag-related businesses, he said. Santa Ana predicts the Valley will remain an agricultural player no matter what.

New Tech, New Trends “As far as the future is concerned, I think we will always — and that’s a big word — but I think we will always have some degree of agriculture,” he said. “And that’s because of technology, biotechnology, breeding, using genetic markers and molecular tools...to develop new, resilient cultivars.”

As demand for organic everything continues to grow, especially in metropolitan markets, organic seems like a smart business move, at least to some Valley farmers. But as Santa Ana points out, the region’s yearround growing season presents challenges — namely the lack of serious winters to kill off pests, occasional killer freezes notwithstanding.

This can be especially problematic for organic growers. Miguel Ortiz, co-owner of Los Fresnos-based Tenaza Organics, admits that “we’re still learning.”

“Every day is a learning experience,” he said. “It’s difficult. Sometimes you’re lucky and sometimes you’re not. People think, ‘Oh, we want to go down there and do it.’ Well, come on and try. We’re ahead of the game and we still mess up.”

Ortiz’s business partner, Mark Miller, characterizes the Valley as likely one of the hardest places in the country to raise crops organically on a large scale.

“It’s a huge challenge,” he said. “We try.”

Tenaza raises about 15 different crops organically, from onions to beets to broccoli and “all the kales,” Ortiz said. The company sells to distribution centers around Texas for big retailers like H-E-B and Whole Foods, and if you can find an organic produce section in the Valley, you’ll likely find Tenaza products there.

Of course, plenty of South Texas growers make a living farming the conventional way, so why go through the extra hassle to grow organically?

“Because they said we couldn’t,” Ortiz said. “Everybody said we were crazy.”

Steve Clark is a reporter for The Brownsville Herald. In his spare time he enjoys playing banjo and guitar, canoeing with his lovely wife Laura, and eating and writing about great food.

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What’s Cookin’ STORY BY NOELLE BRESSON | PHOTOS BY YVETTE VELA

The Jank Gourmet BBQ Sauce The Goodness—Diabetes Friendly

Chorizo de San Manuel Original Pork Chorizo

Here in Texas almost everyone loves barbecue. The first cookouts after a rainy season won’t be complete without a sauce that’ll leave you wanting more. But what about all the sweeteners and their calories?

Well, The Jank Gourmet BBQ Sauce of Weslaco has you covered.

The Goodness, The Jank’s diabetic friendly option made with monk fruit, is perfect for satisfying your cravings without the guilt.

We love The Goodness on ribs straight from the grill, but it’s also delicious on cauliflower wings or as a simple dipping sauce.

Lamar Jones’ spectacular sauce has lined H-E-B’s shelves for a couple of years now and people can’t get enough. Jones won H-E-B Supplier of the Year more than once after creating a culture around his brand dedicated to supporting the health of families and giving back to the community.

Get a bottle for yourself at your local retailer or online at bbqjank.com.

Growing up in the RGV it’s hard to not know the Chorizo de San Manuel brand. It is well known for quality and using the best ingredients. The story began when Adolfo Guerra started selling his homemade pork chorizo at his convenience store. More than a half-century later, the tradition continues under the tutelage of the Flores family, which expanded the operation from the original general store in San Manuel to the entire U.S. and neighboring countries.

The original pork chorizo recipe includes spices such as black peppercorns, garlic, a combination of different chiles and a couple of other secret ingredients. One hundred percent natural, these pork links can be used in various ways, but our favorite is chorizo con huevo with corn tortillas and some avocado. The Chorizo de San Manuel brand also includes rubs, smoked sausage and quality meats, which can be found on its website. Some products are available at local retailers and at H-E-B stores. Visit chorizodesanmanuel.com.

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IN THE KITCHEN

Serendipity Jelly Strawberry Pequin Jelly

Thompson Dairy Farms Goat Chego

The first company to commercially market jalapeño jelly in 1978, Serendipity Jelly, has nailed the spicy-sweet flavor combo. Its various chile-infused jellies have become a favorite at the Valley’s farmers’ markets.

Serendipity Jelly is owned by Brownsville natives, Michelle and Chris Breeden. They fell in love with the business, bought it in 2018 and since, have sold more than 21,000 jars of jelly. A lot of those were their Strawberry Pequin flavor.

With “just the right amount of heat to make you come back for more” and with a wonderful mix of strawberry and the pequin chile, this jelly is great for snacking with cream cheese and crackers or on a slice of toast. Serendipity jellies may be found at Tesori in Port Isabel, at the various Breadsmith locations and online at serendipityjelly.com.

Who isn’t obsessed with cheese? We love putting it on everything.

But sometimes we don’t want all the fat and the bloating that come with consuming cow’s milk. Thanks to a wonderful alternative from Thompson Dairy Farms, we can enjoy our charcuterie boards sans gut pain.

Thompson offers a decadent goat chego that initially hits the palate with a sharpness and finishes with a smooth nuttiness. It’s perfect for pairing with curated meats and a glass of wine.

All of the farm’s products can be found in its store, at the True Food Market in Harlingen, at most of the Valley’s farmers’ markets and online at truefoodmarkets.com.

What’s in your kitchen?

What RGV products do you like?

Send us a note at hola@ediblergv.com.

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Look what’s sprouting.

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COMMUNITY

Surviving a Pandemic

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Waivers, Innovating and Love, Oh, My! STORY BY CHRIS ARDIS | PHOTOS BY YVETTE VELA

urvival became the goal for restaurant owners across the country when the pandemic forced them to shut down their establishments. In the Rio Grande Valley, survival took asking for help from legislators, shifting to new methods of meal delivery and communication, taking care of each other and receiving a whole lot of love from the community.

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Acts of Giving Though they were working desperately to keep their businesses afloat, many restaurateurs did not lose sight of other Valley residents’ struggles and sought to help them.

Brothers Joel and Jesse Garcia own Teddy’s Barbecue in Weslaco, named one of My Favorite Texas BBQ Bites of 2020 and one of The Top 50 Best BBQ Joints 2021 by Texas Monthly. Joel and the owners of T-Ghost BBQ and Monterrey Café in Weslaco helped each other by sharing ideas and products.

Teddy’s team also decided to set aside one day a week to serve the community. They focused on those who had lost their jobs, teachers working virtually and all of the people working to keep H-E-B supermarkets open.

“We fed H-E-B employees from Brownsville to Donna,” Joel said. “Over the last year, we fed 2,000 to 3,000 people. We’re not just

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here to take. We’re here to give as well.”

The restaurant proprietors interviewed for this article said the greatest show of support and giving came from the community members themselves. Were it not for them, the surviving eateries would not be open today. These restaurateurs will never forget their customers’ patience while waiting for curbside orders, their commitment to keeping local restaurants and farmers in business and their increased donations to the Brownsville Wellness Coalition (BWC).

The BWC is a nonprofit organization providing programs that promote nutrition and healthy lifestyles.

“What I tell my staff is not to forget to tell our customers, ‘Thank you,’ Joel said.

“They give us business, they allow us to pay our staff, they allow us to grow and they allow us to give to our community.”

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“What I tell my staff is not to forget to tell our customers, ‘Thank you.’ They give us business, they allow us to pay our staff, they allow us to grow and they allow us to give to our community.”

Legal Exceptions Made Larry Delgado and his wife Jessica own three restaurants in McAllen, Texas: house. wine. & bistro, Salomé on Main and Salt – New American Table. When the abrupt shutdown occurred, the Delgados had three restaurants with maximum inventory, ready to please the palates of their weekend crowds.

“We learned how resilient we can be and our team can be,” Larry said.

Larry serves as a director on the Texas Restaurant Association (TRA) board. The TR A played a significant role in pushing for statewide waivers to allow restaurant owners to sell raw meat and dry goods, like paper products, during a time of critical shortages while providing a way for restaurant owners to reduce inventory.

Another waiver allowed restaurants to sell beer, wine and mixed drinks with pickup and delivery orders that included food.

While reducing inventory provided some immediate relief, staying in business meant

Top left: Jessica Delgado made deliveries out of her Suburban during the start of the lockdown.

Top right: Flying Pig to-go cocktails.

Bottom left: Teddy’s BBQ in Weslaco spritzing the brisket to keep it moist during the cooking process.

shifting from a focus on indoor dining to curbside pickup and delivery.

All of the restaurant owners expressed gratitude to the Texas Legislature for the alcohol-to-go waiver and for making it permanent. They also credit the Texas Alcoholic Beverage Commission for advocating for the waiver and for its assistance during the most difficult times.

“They were so helpful,” said Hector Burnias, owner of Flying Pig Grill & Cantina and its sister restaurant, El Santuario Tacos & Cocktails in Olmito, just east of Brownsville. “They did not want anyone to go out of business.”

Burnias said he paid attention to what was going on throughout the state, which paid off when the shutdown occurred.

“Big markets were capitalizing on ‘bundles.’ ’Those bundles, like two or three cocktails or wine with 10 or 12 tacos, made a huge — and I mean HUGE — difference.” The philosopher Plato once said, “Our need will be the real creator.” Out of necessity, Burnias created margaritas by the Mason jar.

“It was actually brilliant,” he said, “because it allowed people to take the actual concept of Flying Pig and El Santuario home with them.” edibleriograndevalley.com

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BWC Fresco Mobile Market distributes produce from its community gardens during the lockdown.

Shifting the Business Model Following the lead of friends who owned restaurants in New York and Georgia, the Garcias closed their dining room the week before the Texas shutdown, thinking they would be closed for one or two weeks. Soon realizing it would be much longer, they turned to Toast and its point-of-sale system.

“At first, we were doing walk-up orders,” Joel said.

“But Toast set up an online ordering system for us in about two weeks, giving us free online ordering for six months. That really helped us out. We had just opened in September of 2019, so it was really scary.”

The Garcias also converted the Teddy’s dining room into a prep space for curbside pickups.

Back in McAllen, the Delgados used their private vehicles to deliver meals to customers, sometimes until midnight.

“We went from 115 team members down to 43,” Jessica said. “That was heartbreaking, but we worked with the hope, the goal, of being able to bring them all back.”

After hearing a friend, who is a chef in Houston, was in the H-E-B Grocery Co.’s heat and serve pilot program, the Delgados made their own pitch to provide meals to H-E-B customers as another way to raise revenue and meet this goal.

“Initially, we were turned away because the program was not available in South Texas,” Larry said, “but we shared our story, and we won their hearts. It has been a wonderful opportunity for us. They are a blessing.”

Social media proved instrumental, too, exposing the owners to how restaurants across the U.S. were responding, allowing them to share their own successful initiatives, and especially for communicating with customers.

“When you see how creative bars and restaurants in larger markets are, you realize you can be just as creative,” Burnias said.

Local farmers and community garden operators had to shift, too, according to Veronica Rosenbaum, executive director of the BWC. Those included the two urban farms and five community gardens that sell their harvest at the BWC’s Brownsville Farmers’ Market and to restaurants in the Rio Grande Valley.

“It was a whirlwind,” Rosenbaum said. “It was mind-blowing because our farms and gardens were thriving and then had to close for nine months.”

The BWC loaded up its Fresco Mobile Market every Friday, offering “bundle bags” with tomatoes, onions, celery and other vegetables and

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with bananas, strawberries, and mangos from the local produce terminal.

“We sold the bundle bags at the beginning,” Rosenbaum explained. “Then funders and foundations allowed us to give them away.” Every Friday, the market distributed 1,500 bundle bags of vegetables and 1,500 bags of fruit. “From the time we started in April 2020, we provided 96,000 bags of produce.” United Way of Southern Cameron County provided both funding and manpower.

In addition to the Friday bundle bag distributions, the BWC also held smaller-scale distributions during the week and supplied food to local food pantries.

“Our main goal was making sure our farmers stayed in business and their harvest didn’t go to waste,” Rosenbaum said.

These enterprises getting to welcome back their staff is something the owners and Rosenbaum see as a gift.

“We couldn’t be more grateful about how the community came together so we could survive,” said Burnias.

Chris Ardis is a freelance writer and editor living in McAllen, Texas.

A retired educator, she also is a social media manager for local businesses.She loves chocolate, popcorn and Mexican food. Follow her on Facebook at Chris Ardis, Education Blogger.

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NATURE

Inviting Pollinators Into Our Gardens STORY BY DR. JULIE MUSTARD | ILLUSTRATIONS BY MICHEL FLORES TAVISÓN

We all know that pollinators play an important role in turning flowers into food. The pollen that they move from flowers on one plant to those on another increases the likelihood of the plant producing seeds, so any food that comes from a flower benefits from pollination. Whether you have a home garden or take pleasure in the beauty of a butterfly or an adorable bumble bee, many of us would like to invite pollinators into our yards. How can we roll out the welcome mat?

FOODS THAT BENEFIT FROM POLLINATORS Nuts (Almonds, Pecans, Walnuts, etc) Citrus (Ruby Reds, oranges, valley lemons, etc) Cucumbers • Pumpkins • Watermelons • Apples Peaches • Strawberries • Just to name a few...

Add Plants Native To The Rio Grande Valley To Your Yard.

Why are native species important? Won’t any flowers do? Most butterflies only lay their eggs on certain species of plants, which are then consumed by caterpillars. Likewise, some native bees only visit specific plants. This means that our local pollinators are adapted to our native plants and, thus, may not be able to use plants that come from other parts of the world. You do not need to tear up your yard and replant it all with natives. Simply start by adding some native species to your current landscape.

Here in the RGV, we have a wonderful selection of beautiful plants. However, since we live in an ecosystem not found in other places in the U.S. (or even in other parts of Texas), recommended plants for pollinator gardens generally does not include plants native to the RGV.

NATIVE PLANTS Texas sage • Texas lantana • Turk’s cap mist FLowers • our native zizotes milkweed heartleaf hibiscus • skeleton-leaf daisy edible Barbados cherry • low croton

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“IN ACTION” POLLINATOR GARDENS THROUGHOUT THE VALLEY “IN NATIONAL BUTTERFLY CENTER IN MISSION, QUINTA MAZATLAN IN MCALLEN, VALLEY NATURE CENTER IN WESLACO, HUGH RAMSEY NATURE TRAIL IN HARLINGEN, RESACA DE LA PALMA STATE PARK IN BROWNSVILLE POLLINATOR CANTINA AT THE UTRGV BROWNSVILLE CAMPUS

Share The Bounty Having pollinators make your garden their home means that they are going to need to use some of the resources there for themselves. Most caterpillars will chew up leaves of their host plant to fuel their growth before turning into lovely butterflies flitting about. Leafcutting bees gather and use sections of leaves or flower petals to line their nests. Rather than thinking of holes in leaves as imperfections needed to be prevented, we should view them as a sign that our garden is thriving and supporting a whole community. Rarely does the chomping of caterpillars actually kill plants; usually new leaves spring forth to replace those that are eaten. If a plant is particularly hard hit, try removing some of the caterpillars or spraying the leaves with water from a hose to remove unwanted insects, such as aphids.

Leave A Mess Perhaps you received a copy of Marie Kondo’s book over the holidays or your New Year’s resolution is to get organized? Well, one place to ignore the compulsion to tidy is the garden.

Piles of leaves, deadwood and small stacks of rocks or bricks can all provide shelter for native bees and other pollinators. Many types of bees make nests in the hollow center of dead stems or in holes in wood and usually seal the end with mud or leaves. Instead of trimming dead stems all the way to the ground, leave some length for pollinator nests. Keep an eye out for the plugged holes, and protect them until the hole is opened, indicating the offspring have made their way into the world.

The eggs, caterpillars and chrysalises of butterflies and moths find shelter from cold weather, oftentimes in a leaf pile. Instead of sending leaves to the landfill, use leaves the way you would use mulch around plants in beds or make some small mounds in an out of the way place in the garden.

Knowing you are providing shelter for pollinators in your yard should definitely spark joy!

Ditch The Pesticides.

The word pesticide makes you think about killing “pests.” However, pesticides are indiscriminate killers that also annihilate pollinators and beneficial insects — such as lacewings, ladybugs, dragonflies, spiders and praying mantises — that eat aphids, ants and mosquitos. Also, the multitude of small insects that live in our yards are meals for many of the birds we enjoy watching in our yards.

No one wants a yard full of fire ants and mosquitos, so what can we do to get rid of real pests while keeping the many beneficial insects? A targeted approach can help manage specific pests. For example, directly treat ant hills with boric acid or diatomaceous earth. To control mosquitos, make sure there is no standing water in your yard. Check flower pots and their dishes, empty and refill pet bowls and bird baths every day or so and add a fountain or mosquito fish to your pond. Use a fan when sitting outside to keep mosquitos away.

Spring is here. Even a few small changes can fill our gardens with busy bees, the flash of jewel-colored humming birds and butterflies, adding their colors to the blossoms.

Julie Mustard, Ph.D. is an associate professor in the Department of Biology at The University of Texas Rio Grande Valley.

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Illustrator Cecilia Sierra

LET'S PLAY Instructions: Can you identify all 10 pollinators and plants in the drawing? Each pollinator and plant is native to the RGV. Tag us with your completed coloring page at #ediblergvletsplay

10 7

1

8

4

3 2

9

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5

Hints: Texas Lantana, Scorpion Ladybug, Heartleaf, Monarch Butterfly, Bumble Bee, Mistflower, Hummingbird, Clytie Ministreak, Caterpillar 22 SPRING 2022 edible RIO GR ANDETail, VALLEY

Power up and fuel your body 100% plant powered #Worth The Squeeze 74 S Price Rd Ste 1 Brownsville, TX 78521 @juicinalive

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A PHOTOGRAPHY + DESIGN STUDIO FOR THE RIO GRANDE VALLEY AND BEYOND

COMMERCIAL PHOTOGRAPHY BRANDING + LOGO DESIGN SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGEMENT WEBSITE DESIGN WWW.BORDERCREATIVE.CO HELLO@BORDERCREATIVE.CO (956) 543-2447

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CHOCOLATE FACTORY & CAFÉ CRAFT CHOCOLATE COFFEE BAR PASTRIES ETHICALLY-SOURCED, PREMIUM QUALITY CHOCOLATE PRODUCTS MADE IN BROWNSVILLE, TEXAS SiNCE 2016 WWW.RAWXOCOLAT.COM

Bring us along on your next culinary adventure by using #ediblergveats

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23

MARKET GUIDE

Market to Market

All Across the Rio Grande Valley Market Locations & Available CSAs

Brownsville Brownsville Farmers’ Market Linear Park, 1495 E. 7th St. Saturdays 9AM-12PM brownsvillewellnesscoalition.com @brownsvillewellnesscoalition

Edinburg Hub of Prosperity Urban Farm 3707 W. University Drive Saturdays 9-11AM openfoodnetwork.net @hub_of_prosperity

McAllen

Rancho Viejo

Available CSAs in the RGV

Farm to Table Tres Lagos Farmers Market 4350 Tres Lagos Blvd.

First Sunday of every month 2-5PM visitmcallen.com @treslagosmcallen

Rancho Viejo Farmers Market 3301 Carmen Ave. Sundays 3-6PM ranchoviejofm.com @ranchoviejofarmersmarket

CSA, or Community Supported Agriculture, (CSA) is one way consumers can directly support local farms. You connect directly with the farmer, and every week your farmer delivers or you can pick up a variety of fresh nutritious food.

All CSAs have different financial structures and procedures, so we suggest you reach out to the CSA for more information.

South Padre Island

Harlingen

Grow’n Growers Farmers Market Firemen’s Park , 201 N. 1st St. Saturdays 9AM-12PM visitmcallen.com @farmersmarketatfiremenspark

Harlingen Farmer’s Market Tyler Avenue & 2nd Street Saturdays 3-4:30PM Mid October-mid June harlingenfarmersmarket.com @harlingenfarmersmarket

McAllen Farmers Market 4001 N. 23rd St. Saturdays 10AM-1PM mcallenfarmersmarket.com @mcallenfarmersmarket

HOPE Farmers Market 19833 Morris Road Mondays & Thursdays-Saturdays 10AM-6PM yahwehfarm.com yahwehs.farmgarden@gmail.com @yahwehsfarm hopeforsfs@yahoo.com hopeforsfs.org

Mission

True Food Markets 9610 W. Expressway 83 Thursdays-Sundays 11AM-7PM truefoodmarkets.com @truefoodrgv

Primera Farmers Market 16325 Wilson Road November-June Saturdays 9-11AM @primerafarmersmarket

Neighborhood Farmers Market The Bryan House 1113 E. Mile 2 Rd. Wednesdays 3-7PM thebryanhouse.com @thebryanhouse

Primera

Wild August Nursery & Flower Market 16802 Garrett Road October-May Saturdays 9AM-12PM June-September Fridays 6-9PM wildaugust.com @themarketatwildaugust

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South Padre Island Farmers Market 8605 Padre Blvd.

Sundays 11AM-1PM sopadre.com

Weslaco La Cebollita Mid-Valley Farmers Market Weslaco City Hall 255 S. Kansas Ave. Last Saturday of every month 11AM-2PM @weslaco_chamber weslaco.com

Nature’s Heartland Farm Offers produce and eggs 11920 N. Mile 16 Edinburg, Texas Saturdays 10AM-4PM heartlandfarm.com @naturesheartland CD&J Mini Ranch Offers a produce CSA Meat and egg CSA 29575 Adams Road San Benito, Texas cdjminiranch.com @cdjminiranch_woman_owned Sentli Center for Regenerative Agriculture Offers produce CSA Participating Farms: Terra Preta Farm, Food Bank RGV, Vida Farms, The Hour Farm & Sunshine’s Bounty.

To sign up contact Shakera Raygozato 956-472-7436

BROWNSVILLE WELLNESS COALITION

Certified Naturally Grown Farm & Ranch Focuses on sustainability, raising & utilizing local ingredients, and teaching others about their farming practices.

We serve communities by sharing sustainable practices and overall wellness.

COOKING CLASSES

Interested in taking a cooking class? Learn how to prepare a budget-friendly meal, minimize food waste, proper food portions, as well as learn what nutritious food the body needs to thrive. Come join us!

FRESCO MOBILE

Our market-on-wheels takes fresh produce to rural areas throughout the Rio Grande Valley. We source our produce from our urban farms, community gardens, and local farmers.

Locally raised grass-fed beef & lamb, pasture-raised pork, farm fresh eggs, freeze-dried fruits & vegetables.

All items can be purchased through our website or by calling.

COMMUNITY GARDENS & URBAN FARMS

Choose what you want to grow! Our gardens allow any individual in the community to learn how to grow their own food. With the guidance of our Green Team, you will learn about sustainable growing practices.

LIVE LOCAL. BUY LOCAL. @cdjminiranch @BROWNSVILLEWELLNESSCOALITION WWW.BROWNSVILLEWELLNESSCOALITION.COM

Call at 956-456-9600 or visit CDJminiranch.com

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RECIPES

Family

Recipes INTRO & PHOTOS BY MELISSA GUERRA

26 SPRING SPRING2022 2022 26

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Editor’s Note: The passing down of family recipes is a cherished tradition in my home. We wanted to hear about some of the recipes that have been passed down in some of the kitchens around the RGV and the memories they evoke.

n South Texas, our families are big, loud, multi-generational and chaotic. What house can contain all that?

Once a party starts and all (and I mean ALL) the family gets together, there is the moment when everyone standing around indoors is invited to go outdoors (meaning your grandmother kicks you out of the house). Nieces riding tricycles, tios sitting in folding chairs holding a beer telling tall tales, your sister and her new boyfriend on the swing set…real family time happens in the backyard. A fire is lit and the carne asada begins.

When I lived in New York City, I didn’t get the memo that parties at home rarely happened in the big city. I invited a few friends over for dinner at my place, which was more than awkward in my one-room studio apartment. The space was cramped, and I had to move my bed out of the way so my friends could sit at the dining table. In fact, I think my bed became the buffet table for dinner. That dinner was a long time ago, and the specifics are fuzzy. The memory that hangs in my mind is the details of my friends’ faces. Since we were all packed so tightly into the studio space, there was nothing else to see but their eyes, ears, noses and toothy grins — FaceTime circa 1988.

The ambience of carne asada outdoors in Texas felt different from the city-style dinner party. With the outdoor carne asada, you help yourself to all that is offered. There are no limits of space or quantity: open bags of Doritos and potato chips on the picnic table, ice chests packed with sodas and beer, chilled tubs of potato salad or an electric turkey roaster on the porch keeping the arroz y frijoles warm…the quiet message of carne asada is abundance. Food enough for everyone and the luxury of time on a never-ending Sunday afternoon is what carne asada is all about. It is all yours for the taking.

For our homestyle carne asadas, my family really loves mesquite grilled pork ribs with my special Three Pepper Barbecue Sauce. I adore spicy barbecue sauce, and this one is loaded with garlic and dried chiles de arbol. The thick texture comes from sautéed fresh celery and onions, which gives the sauce a chunky heft that clings to whatever meats you are serving. I always make this sauce a few days in advance so the flavors have time to blend. Most importantly, I always have a batch ready when the kids come home. I know they will ask for it.

It is important that sometime and somewhere in their life a kid knows the feeling of unconditional abundance. So much in adulthood is portion controlled, from our salaries, our opportunities and the length of our vacations to how far our cars can go on one tank of gas and what we can accomplish during our days. But those golden Sunday afternoons of mesquite smoke floating to infinity and endless conversations are the best moments we can create for ourselves here in the Rio Grande Valley. Enjoy your time together!

PORK RIBS WITH THREE PEPPER BARBECUE SAUCE Serves 4

5 pounds (2.27 kg) pork loin back (baby back) ribs Salt, pepper, or favorite seasoning mixture For the sauce 2 tablespoons (30 ml) olive oil 1 onion, chopped 1 large rib celery, chopped ½ red bell pepper, seeded and sliced 2–3 chiles de arbol (dried red chiles) 2 cloves garlic ¼ cup (59 ml) apple cider vinegar 1 cup (237 ml) ketchup 2 tablespoons (30 ml) Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon (5 g) dry prepared mustard ¼ cup (55 g) brown sugar 1 tablespoon (15 ml) Tabasco sauce Heat oven to 350° F (176° C). In a large baking pan, season ribs.

Bake in the oven for 1 hour.

Meanwhile, in a 2 quart (1.89 l) saucepan, heat the olive oil and sauté onion, celery and bell pepper. Add dried chiles and garlic and sauté for about 3 more minutes. Add the remaining ingredients and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and let stand for 10 minutes.

Using a food processor or immersion blender, purée the sautéed sauce mixture. Make sure no large vegetable pieces remain.

Finish cooking ribs on a heated outdoor barbecue grill, about 10 minutes. Cover ribs with sauce before serving or serve sauce on the side.

Note: This sauce is best when made at least 1 day in advance. Although this sauce is not too spicy for children, you can omit the dried chiles de arbol and Tabasco altogether if you wish. If it is not carne asada weather outside, bake the ribs about 15 minutes longer and then broil for about 3 minutes on each side for a crispy brown finish.

Melissa Guerra is an eighth generation Texan, born and raised on a cattle ranch in South Texas. She is a self-taught culinary expert and food historian specializing in the food ways of the American continent, especially Texas, regional, Mexican and Latin American cuisine.

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Frontera Capirotada

M

y mom made capirotada most Fridays during Lent. What a joy that was for me and for the whole family. I can still smell the aroma of the cinnamon and brown sugar that went into the traditional recipe she lovingly prepared for us.

I remember that days before, Mother stocked up on sufficient quantities of sliced American cheese (yellow), piloncillo, cinnamon sticks, anise and raisins. She rose early on Friday to go to the panadería to buy two fabulous loaves of its freshly baked pan frances. She sliced the bread first in portions and toasted it in the oven. While the bread was toasting, she made the capirotada “tea” to flavor and sweeten the combined ingredients. Then it was time to eat and enjoy. I ate it hot and even refrigerator cold. What a treat it was for all of us, but especially me.

Several decades later when I started my cooking school, I decided to add this recipe to my curriculum. I did quite a bit of research on the ingredients used in the homes of friends and employees. I learned that people used a variety of nuts and oftentimes prunes and white cheese instead of yellow American cheese.

One day I was in Brownsville in a small Mexican diner and noticed a sign that said, “Capirotada Today.” So I asked the manager what type of cheese they used. The answer was, “Yellow and white!” I thought, of course, this is the border where cultures meet and blend. I had my answer.

Makes 12 servings 1

24-ounce (680 g) loaf split-top, thick-sliced white bread 1 cup (200 g) grated piloncillo (brown sugar cone available in Hispanic markets) or 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 teaspoon (3 g) anise seeds 1 4-inch (10-cm)-long cinnamon stick 1 cup (159 g) raisins 1 cup (125 g) pecan pieces ½ cup (48 g) sweetened flaked coconut 1½ cups (125 g) shredded Cheddar cheese 1½ cups (125 g) shredded Chihuahua or Monterey Jack cheese Ground cinnamon (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350° F (180° C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish or metal baking pan.

Place half the toasted bread in the bottom of the prepared baking dish. Again pour the piloncillo liquid through a fine strainer, reserving the liquid and raisins separately.

Cut the bread into 1-inch (2.5-cm) squares.

Cover with foil and bake for about 25 minutes, until the mixture has puffed.

On a large baking sheet, spread the bread squares in a single layer. Bake for about 10 minutes to toast the bread to a golden brown. Halfway through the baking time, turn the bread to toast the other side. Set aside off the heat.

In a large saucepan or stockpot over high heat, combine the piloncillo, anise, cinnamon stick and 6½ cups (2 l) water.

Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes. Set aside off the heat for about 5 minutes.

Pour the piloncillo liquid through a fine strainer to remove the solids, reserving the liquid. Add the raisins to the liquid, cover and set aside for 5 to 10 minutes to plump raisins.

Pour about half the liquid over the bread, making certain the bread is completely soaked. Sprinkle half the soaked raisins and half the pecans over the bread. Evenly distribute all the coconut over the raisins and pecans. Layer ¾ cup (62 g) of each of the cheeses over the coconut. Spread the remaining bread pieces over all.

Pour the remaining liquid over the bread, making certain the bread is completely soaked. Sprinkle the remaining raisins and pecans over the bread. Top all with the remaining cheeses.

Remove the foil and set aside to cool for about 15 minutes before serving. Sprinkle with ground cinnamon before serving, if desired.

How to work with piloncillo cones Use a box grater or Microplane to grate piloncillo. The form of sugar is very hard.

Cutting the cone into pieces requires a heavy cleaver or strong serrated knife and some strength. Sometimes I put it in a bag and hit it with a hammer to break it into smaller pieces for grating.

Sylvia Casares was born and raised in Brownsville, Texas. She is a renowned chef and restaurateur. Known as the Enchilada Queen, she is the owner of two Mexican restaurants in Houston and the author of The Enchilada Queen Cookbook.

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N

Nopalitos

opalitos have long been a staple on our table during the Lenten season. For as long as I can remember, springtime means foraging my mother’s and grandmother’s backyard for new growth on their prickly pear cactus. The tender pads have long since been an important part of Mexican cuisine, and South Texas is no exception. They have a mild “green” flavor with a hint of citrus and can be consumed raw in a pico de gallo, blanched for a guiso or even pickled and fried which makes them very versatile once you get passed the okra-like goo that comes along with them.

Nopales can be a delicious addition to your table, but preparing them doesn’t come without its challenges. They are covered in tiny hair-like “espinas” that are more than a nuisance if not removed carefully and completely. To do so, first lay the pad flat on a cutting board, and being careful not to touch any of the spiny nodes (a wooden horquilla would come in handy), use a sharp paring knife to cut off the outer edge of the pad. Next, use the sharp end of the knife to shave the nodes off both sides of the pad. Wipe the cleaned pads with a damp towel to remove any loose thorns, then dice the pad into ¼-inch (0.63-cm) squares. Blanch your nopalitos in boiling salted water for 5 minutes. You’ll notice that your water becomes thick with the aloe vera-like slime that the nopalitos release. Drain your nopalitos, rinse them thoroughly and they are ready for your favorite recipe. While I can’t say that nopales are my favorite, here is one of my favorite Lenten dishes from my mother’s table. Salud!

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Serves 4 1 tablespoon (15 ml) extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup (40 g) yellow onion, diced 2 teaspoons (6 g) garlic, minced 2 cups (298 g) prepared nopales 2 tablespoons (30 ml) prepared chili Colorado ¾ ounce (21 g) dried shrimp ¼ cup (60 ml) water Kosher salt Fresh cilantro Heat olive oil in a 10-inch (0.25-meter) skillet. Add yellow onion and sauté on medium high heat until onions are translucent. Add minced garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add nopales, Chili Colorado, dried shrimp and water. Bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to low, simmer for 10 minutes. Salt to taste. Finish with fresh cilantro before serving.

Larry Delgado and his wife Jessica own three restaurants in McAllen, Texas: house. wine. & bistro, Salomé on Main and Salt – New American Table.

Join thought leaders, writers, innovators, and industry experts in Denver as we celebrate 20 years of telling the story of local food and explore the ideas, challenges and changes that will shape our food

OCTOBER 1–2, 2022 | DENVER, CO

communities in the next decade and beyond.

For more information, visit edibleinstitute.com

Edible is pleased to announce Dr. Temple Grandin as our keynote speaker for this year’s Institute.

Dr. Grandin is a scientist whose ground-breaking work in animal behavior has helped shape standards of excellence for the humane treatment of animals around the world.

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LAST SIP

Spring Fling STORY BY JACKIE CASTILLO | PHOTO BY DANIELA LOERA This cocktail is a fun spring twist on the margarita. While a classic margarita traditionally contains lime, orange liqueur and agave, this version has lemon, Chareau and honey.

Chareau is an aloe liqueur that brings light floral citrus notes to the palate. This cocktail can be enjoyed at home with a few simple ingredients from your local vendors. Sip and enjoy!

Serves 1 11/2 1/4 1/2 1/2

ounces Mijenta Tequila Blanco ounce Chareau ounce lemon juice ounce honey syrup

Begin by making your honey syrup. This will require 1 cup of clover honey and 1/2 cup of warm water.

Combine and stir until your honey has a thin consistency.

Next squeeze the lemons and strain the juice with a fine mesh strainer to catch all the pulp.

Put all your ingredients into a shaker tin filled with ice. Shake well for 15 seconds. Serve in a chilled Champagne flute. Garnish with a lemon wheel.

NOTE: Visit ediblergv.com for a full list of local vendors that carry Mijenta Tequila and Chareau.

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edible br ooklyn

telling the story of how the City eats anD DrinKs • no. 52 sPring 2018

THE

Drinks ISSUE

Bottling liQuiD Courage maKing sPiCeBush fiZZ BiointensiVe orCharDs Boom irish Bars’ fluiD iDentity a Brewery-fermentary-juiCery in one Member of Edible Communities

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COLUMBUS THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD

Member of Edible Communities No. 39 | Winter 2019

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HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

INLAND NORTHWEST ®

M AU I • No 4 9 • S U M M E R • 2 0 1 9 E AT • G ROW • C O OK • C E L E B R AT E

'tis the season issue 4 | holiday 2020

MEMBER OF EDIBLE COMMUNITIES

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Issue 45

Spring 2020 MARIN & WINE COUNTRY

Celebrating the harvest of Marin, Napa and Sonoma counties, season by season

m a n h at ta n telling the story of how gotham eats • no. 30 july�august ����

Goat Milk Soft SErvE ConSCiEntiouS CatErinG

US $5.00

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MEMPHIS FOODFM anD COMMUNITIN TE MIDOUT

FAMILIAR FACES KITCHEN QUARTERBACKS CLASSIC COCKTAILS UNSOLICITED ADVICE

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Explore a world of local food through the magazines and websites of Edible Communities.

We’ll introduce you to the chefs, farmers, brewers, home cooks and others who inspire and sustain local flavors across the US and Canada. ediblecommunities.com

E AT. D R I N K . S H O P. L O C A L .

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Stay up to the minute on all things edible at: ediblecommunities.com

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34 SPRING 2022

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