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Magazine 1
Bouverne Exclusive
collection The Monsieur de Chanel Rolex Oyster
90 years of watertightness The Galápagos Islands
EDITORIAL We are very pleased and proud to present you with the first issue of our watch and jewellery magazine. It is a great opportunity for us to show you our new timepieces for men and women and the new jewellery from our catalogue, as well as our new jewellery creations. This first issue is sure to satisfy longstanding connoisseurs as well as newcomers to the captivating world of watches and jewellery. Because our interests go well beyond our business, we also wanted to share with you articles devoted to culture, fashion, travel and some of the best places to go in the city. With this first issue, we wanted to convey the spirit of our family, our values and our aspirations.
We hope that you enjoy it and that it gives you as much pleasure reading it as we had creating it. feel free to send us your comments and suggestions and to contact us for information about any of our models or services. Looking forward to seeing you soon at our shop,
The Bouverne family
06 THE SHOP The Bouverne jewellery shop 08 JEWELLERY Bouverne Exclusive collection 14 WHAT’S NEW The Drive de Cartier 18 DISCOVER THE CITY The Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof 22 DISCOVER THE CITY Starred restaurants in Ghent 24 SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES Our new timepieces for him 28 WHAT’S NEW The Monsieur de Chanel 32 ON THE COVER Be devoted to... elegance 38 SUCCESS STORY Natan, fashion made in Belgium 40 REPORT The stones that shower us in a rainbow of colours 44 MUST HAVE The Nudo ring by Pomellato 46 SELECTION OF JEWELLERY Our new jewellery 48 THE UNIVERSE OF A MAISON Jewellery according to Chaumet 50 SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES Our new timepieces for her 52 INTERVIEW Charles Dekeyser 54 DISCOVER THE CITY Visiting the Ghent Opera House 56 WATCH COMPLICATIONS The fabulous story of tourbillon 58 EVENT Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez 60 ANNIVERSARY Rolex Oyster: 90 years of watertightness 62 A CLOSER LOOK Diving watches 64 A CLOSER LOOK Vintage trend 66 JEWELLERY Bouverne Exclusive collection 70 ART Salvador Dalí: The Persistence of Memory 72. DISCOVER THE CITY Exploring the castle of the Counts of Flanders 74. SPORT Longines and equestrian sports 76. LIMITED EDITION Baume & Mercier: Capeland Shelby Cobra 80. TRAVEL The Galápagos Islands 84. GENERAL KNOWLEDGE Test your watch culture!
CONTENTS
THe SHOP
weLCoMe To
THe BouVerne JeWeLLery SHoP
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Kortedagsteeg 37-39, 9000 Gent (Belgium) (+32) 9 223 95 72 info@bouverne.eu www.bouverne.be Monday: 14:00 – 18:00 Tuesday – Saturday: 09:00 – 18:30
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fter finishing his studies in Switzerland, Alain Bouverne decided to open his own watch and jewellery shop in 1976. The Bouverne jewellery shop, located in the heart of Ghent, has established itself as a leading jeweller thanks to the expertise of its owner, his wife and their children. Together they will welcome you into a friendly shop featuring a chic and contemporary design that was fully renovated less than a year ago. It will be their pleasure to help you discover stunning pieces by major longstanding watch manufacturers and jewellery workshops from around the world, as well as their own jewellery creations, Bouverne exclusive. As veritable experts, each member of the Bouverne family will advise you on an individual basis and share with you the special features of each timepiece and piece of jewellery exhibited in their display cases. More than just a boutique, the Bouverne jewellery shop also has a state-of-the-art watch and jewellery repair shop. A team of watchmakers and jewellers will even be able to preserve and repair your favourite timepieces and your precious jewellery. do not hesitate any longer to visit this wonderful jewellery shop where a world of creativeness and expertise awaits you.
6 THE SHOP
Bouverne Exclusive collection Photographers : Laurence Steyt & JosĂŠ-Luis Alvira
jewellery
Handmade ring with centre oval-cut 1.5 ct E/VS2 diamond surrounded by pink diamonds. Accompanied by a certificate of origin.
Handmade ring set with a 3.03 ct Siam ruby. Accompanied by a certificate of origin.
Handmade ring set with a 2.66 ct unheated Ceylon sapphire. Accompanied by a certificate of origin.
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The drive man by Cartier The qualities of the drive man are instinct, independence and elegance. natural on first impressions, he is more sophisticated than he initially appears. He appreciates the good things in life for himself and the pleasure they bring him. for him, the details make the difference. His watch is worn as a reflection of the man, rather than for status.
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wHAT’S New
The dRive de CARTieR, A dreSS WATCH for refIned Men
cartier has Launched its new drive coLLection at the most recent SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE, thus expandinG its Line of chic sports watches. sure to pLease, it (aLready) comes in seven different versions.
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Calibre 1904-Ps MC date window at 3 o’clock and small seconds counter at 6 o’clock
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n elegant timepiece The drive de Cartier is an elegant, timeless dress watch. At first glance, it is distinguished by its unusual, cushion-shaped case that is neither round nor square. The case, which has an imposing 40 x 42 mm diameter, comes in stainless steel or rose gold. As for finishes, they are polished for the bezel and brushed for the case middle. The drive line has debuted with three models, available in seven references: one model for each different manufacture movement. The first model, which features the only date dial, is offered in four versions, all of which are equipped with the calibre 1904-PS MC. The second model, featuring a retrograde second time zone, comes in two versions equipped with the calibre 1904-fu MC. Lastly, the third model is a Haute Horlogerie Poinçon de Genève certified version equipped with the flying tourbillon 9452 MC, which is sure to delight all mechanical watch enthusiasts. inspired by the automotive world Aesthetically speaking, Cartier plays the driving
MoveMenTs
]
for THe drIVe
Calibre 9452 MC flying tourbillon complication with seconds indicated by the C-shaped cage
watch card and, indeed, there are many nods to the motoring world. for example, pattern of its guilloche dial resembles the design of a radiator grill (the grill decorating and protecting
The dRive Line hAs deBuTed wiTh ThRee ModeLs, AvAiLABLe in seven RefeRenCes: one ModeL foR eACh diffeRenT MAnufACTuRe MoveMenT. a car’s radiator). Also noteworthy are the bolt-shaped winding crown and the domed glass. Likewise, on the models with a retrograde second time zone, the shape of the
Calibre 1904-fu MC Large date at 12 o’clock, second time zone at 10 o’clock, day/night indicator at half past three and small seconds at 6 o’clock
sub-dial resembles a gauge on a dashboard. depending on the reference, the guilloche dial comes in black, grey or white. And all the versions feature roman numerals and swordshaped hands. Lastly, in line with its elegant finishes, there is also a sunburst pattern. The drive de Cartier is fitted with an alligator bracelet that comes in two colours depending on the reference chosen, black or brown. The manufacture movement 1904 MC The manufacture movement 1904 MC, which is self-winding and features a 48-hour power reserve, is available in two versions: the calibre 1904-PS MC, which offers hour, minute, small seconds and date functions, and the 1904-fu MC, which has a second time zone, a day/night indicator, a big date and small seconds. These two movements, like the calibre 9452 MC, are visible through a clear case back that also makes it possible to admire the finishes (Côtes de Genève, polished screw heads and perlage). The ideal watch for refined men, the drive looks great with all clothing styles. future owners are spoilt for choice when it comes to finding one to suit their wrist perfectly. 15 WHAT’S NEW
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The Poinçon de Genève The Poinçon de Genève comes from a law from 1886 created to protect Genevan watchmaking. A standard of excellence, the Poinçon de Genève guarantees the provenance, craftsmanship and reliability of a timepiece. It is applied on watches from manufacturers based in the Canton of Geneva whose fine watchmaking is known the world over.
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Sandton Hotels is a chain of boutique hotels located in great locations in Holland, Belgium and France. For more information: www.sandton.eu
Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof Hoogstraat 36, 9000 Ghent Tel: (+32) 9 235 40 70 gent@sandton.eu
DISCOVER THE CITY
A stay at the
Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof Located 500 metres from the centre of Ghent, the Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof is perfect for personal or business travel. You will no doubt be seduced by the charm of its period architecture, its excellent restaurant and its beautiful gardens.
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building full of history All the charm of the Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof, a protected monument since 1990, lies in its architecture. The building is comprised of two parts, one of which exudes strong historical character, having originally been a city hotel dating back to 1794. Inside the hotel, you will be captivated by the presence of an impressive spiral staircase and various empire mantle pieces. Meanwhile, the salons of the Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof were named after some of the city’s historical figures, like the writer Maurice Maeterlinck and the painter Emile Claus (1849-1924). In addition, the foyer on the first floor was named after Lieven Bauwens, founder of the mechanical textile industry in Ghent.
Lovely guestrooms and suites The Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof offers 158 guestrooms and suites, all of which have been tastefully furnished and decorated. There are three types of rooms available, Cosy, Charme and Deluxe, and some even have a balcony. There are also three different kinds of suites: the Reylof Suite, a spacious bedroom plus sitting area; the Grand Suite, overlooking the garden; and the Presidential Suite, with two large bedrooms, access by private elevator and a rooftop terrace. Moreover, there are two additional options: the Executive Room and the Apartment. All rooms and suites have a wooden floor, making them warm and comfortable. Likewise, they all have climate control, satellite television, telephone, mini bar, safe and Wi-Fi. And you can enjoy room service 24/7.
High quality extras The Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof is much more than a boutique hotel; it also has a restaurant serving modern French cuisine, Restaurant Lof, headed by the young chef Joris Korsten. You can enjoy breakfast, lunch, high tea or dinner at different times of day or even simply have a glass of wine or champagne, as the bar is open every day until one o’clock in the morning (midnight on Sundays). The design by Christian Lacroix and Designers Guild is sure to catch your eyes. Lastly, the hotel also has a fitness centre, Zen-Senses, located on the other side of the courtyard. All hotel guests have free access to the steam bath, sauna, fitness room and wellness pool to cool off.
19 DISCOVER THE CITY
Vrijmoed
, to try pure cuisine with intense flavours Chef Michael Vrijmoed, trained by three-star chef Peter Goossens and chosen Young Chef of the Year 2015 by Gault&Millau, welcomes you into his establishment, a lovely townhouse located steps away from the main sites of the old city, from Tuesday to Friday and Monday at lunchtime. Diners can choose from an à la carte menu as well as two 4- to 7-course menus in which they can enjoy sautéed Oosterchelde lobster, aubergines accompanied with Japanese seaweed and fresh goat’s cheese sorbet. Vlaanderenstraat 22 · (+32) 9 279 99 77
Jan Van den Bon,
for nature lovers Located in a manor house overlooking the Citadelpark, the restaurant run by Jan and Marie-Paule Van den Bon serves creative and colourful dishes where “forgotten” vegetables are honoured (salsify, swede and root chervil, among others). In the same vein, the wine list is not limited to the large wineries. A tasting menu and a seasonal menu are offered in which diners can enjoy in particular grilled red mullet with Guérande salt and basil or Scottish salmon with rose peppers and spring onion. A plus: the view from the dining room of the lovely French-inspired garden. Koning Leopold II laan 43 · (+32) 9 221 90 85
DISCOVer THe CITy
sTARRed ResTAuRAnTs In GHenT
Known for the quaLity of its cuisine, fLanders has aLL it taKes to attract foodies, and Ghent is no exception! here are four pLaces hoLdinG a micheLin star.
Publiek,
to shake up your routine not far from the historic centre, this loft-style restaurant with a contemporary bistro air run by olly Ceulenaere and Kelly dehollander is never empty thanks to the high quality of its dishes and its unbeatable value for money. open from Tuesday to Sunday, Publiek appeals as an elegant place to unwind. excellently simple, there is a lunch menu, a dinner menu and an à la carte menu. The motto: “niets is Verloren”, literally, nothing is lost: at Publiek, products are used in their entirety. Ham 39 · (+32) 9 330 04 86
Horseele
After dinner, head to
Jigger’ s
Jigger’s is downright the best cocktail bar in Belgium and one of the best in europe. Tucked away on the cobbled streets of the Patershol neighbourhood, this underground bar with a cosy atmosphere is reminiscent of American speakeasies during Prohibition. It is highly recommended that you book to taste the creations of olivier Jacobs, twice crowned the best Belgian barman. And fyI, a jigger is a unit of volume measurement as well as a device used by bartenders to accurately pour cocktails. It’s equivalent to 44 ml. Oudburg 16 · Reservations: (+32) 9 335 70 25
, to dine in a unique setting Two-star chef danny Horseele welcomes you to his new restaurant in the Ghelamco Arena, the new football stadium for AA Ghent. offering a spacious setting with large windows overlooking the pitch, there is also has a bar. The chef will amaze you with his langoustine tartar, his skate cheek and his highly personal interpretation of Ghent waterzooi. The wine list is impressive. Ideal for a group or business dinner. Ottergemsesteenweg - Zuid 808 (+32) 9 330 23 20
23 DISCOVER THE CITY
RoLeX Cosmograph daytona This chronograph was launched in 1963 to meet the needs of professional drivers. It’s back in a classic yet stunning version in stainless steel with a black and white dial. featuring a 40 mm case, it is equipped with the calibre 4130.
BReGueT Type XXi Contemporary version of a model created in the 1950s, this model comes in a stainless steel 42 mm case fitted with a slate-coloured dial displaying a day/night indicator at 3 o’clock, a 12-hour counter and date in a window at 6 o’clock and small seconds at 9 o’clock. The chronograph has a flyback function.
Our new timepieces PAneRAi Radiomir 1940 3 days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio With an impressive diameter of 45 mm, this new radiomir houses the P.4002 calibre, an evolution of the P.4000 calibre, and has a date function, a GMT function, an AM/PM indicator in the small seconds sub-dial and a power reserve display. The dial comes in a clous de Paris version.
CARTieR santos 100 Carbone Created in 1904, the celebrated Santos watch has been reinterpreted many times over the years. Here it comes in a steel and AdLC version and in the largest size so far (51.1 mm x 41.3 mm). Watertight to approximately 100 metres, it contains the calibre 1847 MC, a self-winding mechanical movement.
TudoR heritage Black Bay Bronze & dark The Heritage Black Bay collection is being expanded with new references, one of which stands out with its stunning bronze case. It is in fact a high-performance aluminium bronze alloy guaranteeing the development of a patina gained from the use of the wearer‌ Meanwhile, the other watch comes in matte black steel and inherits the dial and the domed glass from the first Tudor diving watches.
foR hiM BAuMe & MeRCieR Clifton Housed in an 18-carat red gold case, this new Clifton accounts for all the particularities of the Gregorian calendar with its 31-, 30- or 28-day months and the periodic occurrence of 29 february. It also indicates the date, the day of the week, the month and the moon phases.
LonGines Conquest Classic Combining steel and rose gold, this official watch for many events is equipped with a chronograph movement featuring a moon phase function and ensuring a power reserve of 48 hours. It is paired with a brown alligator bracelet, adding a touch of elegance.
25 SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES
RoLeX Air-King The new Air-King catches eyes with its black dial combining large markers for the hour and a minute scale for navigational time readings. It is equipped with the calibre 3131, a self-winding mechanical movement. Moreover, it is Superlative Chronometer certified and watertight to 100 metres.
PAneRAi Luminor due 3 days Automatic oro Rosso The Luminor due 3 days Automatic is the first watch in the collection to be equipped with a self-winding movement, the P.4000 calibre with off-centre micro-rotor. The red gold case houses a sandwich structure dial: numerals at the four cardinal points, baton markers and small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock.
BReGueT Classique Model in 18-carat rose gold with a generous 40 mm format. Its sapphire case back makes it possible to admire its extra-thin (2.4 mm) mechanical movement, the 502.3Sd. In addition, the 18-carat gold dial is individually numbered and signed Breguet. There is an off-centre small seconds at 5 o’clock.
PAneRAi Lo scienziato - Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio The skeletonised tourbillon collection “Lo Scienziato” is a tribute to Galileo Galilei, the famous Italian scientist from the 16th and 17th century. featuring a 47 mm case, this piece comes in a limited edition of 150 units crafted in titanium, an extremely lightweight metal. It also builds up an exceptional power reserve of six days.
CARTieR Calibre de Cartier diver An elegant diving watch, the Calibre de Cartier diver has returned dressed all in blue. There’s been no change in the movement: it is powered by the self-winding mechanical calibre 1904-PS MC. It is attached to a rubber strap matching the dial and is watertight to 300 metres.
BAuMe & MeRCieR Capeland shelby Cobra 1963 Competition Baume & Mercier is once again celebrating American driver Carroll Shelby with a new series of chronographs issued in a limited edition of 1963 units. There are many nods to the famous Cobra, including the black vulcanised rubber strap fashioned in the same material used for the tyres on race cars.
ChAneL j12 Moonphase This J12 Moonphase measuring 38 mm is made out of black ceramic and steel. It is equipped with a mechanical movement with a 42-hour power reserve and provides hour, minute, second, date and moon phase functions.
LonGines heritage Military echoing the design of a timepiece from 1918, the Longines Heritage Military is a stainless steel piece full of character featuring a 44 mm diameter, a matte black dial displaying 12 Arabic numerals coated in Super-Luminova® and a seconds sub-dial and date window at 6 o’clock. The bracelet comes in black alligator leather.
27 SELECTION OF TIMEPIECES
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The Monsieur by Chanel A jumping hour framed by the octagonal architecture of Place Vendôme. An extra-wide retrograde minute display for maximum legibility. A small second hand that animates a circular interplay with the minutes. An unconventional mingling that sparks a private bond between watch and wearer. Only he who understands it can read it.
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WHAT’S NEW
Chanel unveils its first watch made for men: call it Monsieur
Chanel has written a new page in its history by releasing its first men’s watch crafted entirely in-house and equipped with the manufacturer’s first in-house movement, the Calibre 1. And developments never come alone: this is also the first time that Chanel is selling a watch exclusively made in Switzerland.
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surprise by Chanel In order to create its Monsieur watch, Chanel brought together an eight-person team over a five-year period to develop, in the greatest of secrecy, every last detail of this magnificent timepiece with a retro air. The Monsieur allures with its complications, its instant jumping hour and its retrograde minutes. A technical feat for Chanel, the instant jumping mechanism and the system for adjusting the minutes by turning the crown in either direction are patented features. The look of the Monsieur This first manufacture men’s watch by Chanel features a sleek 40 mm case in beige gold, a material also used for the crown and the hands. The ivory opaline dial, which is protected by a slightly domed sapphire glass, has a retrograde minute counter at an off-centre 240 degrees (it is usually located at up to 180 degrees), an instant jumping hour window at 6 o’clock and a small seconds counter. The Monsieur thus combines hour, minute and small seconds
functions. An exclusive design feature, the typography for the hours and minutes was especially designed for the Monsieur. The black strap is alligator. Moreover, the piece is watertight to 30 metres.
The Monsieur allures with its complications, its instant jumping hour and its retrograde minutes. The first in-house manufactured calibre The Monsieur is equipped with the Calibre 1, Chanel’s first in-house calibre. This 4.4 mm thick, hand-wound, mechanical movement
is comprised of 170 components, beats at a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 oscillations per hour) and builds up a power reserve of three days with the help of two barrels mounted in series. It offers outstanding performance for the type of complications on the watch. Its black and grey tinted architectural movement (with its ADLC finish) features interplaying thicknesses thanks to its skeletonised bridges. For the seal on the movement, the maison chose the emblem of the lion, an animal dear to Gabrielle Chanel which symbolises strength and power. The lion head is also found on the buckle and the crown. Details that make the difference include the window at 6 o’clock, which is in the shape of the Place Vendôme. It goes without saying that the Monsieur de Chanel marks the start to a great adventure. Nicolas Beau, director of Chanel Horlogerie, has recently revealed that calibres 2 and 3 are already in the works. This first model made exclusively for him comes in two versions, one in beige gold (an 18-carat alloy created by Chanel), and the other in white gold, each in a limited edition of 150 units.
29 WHAT’S NEW
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The Chanel lion The lion was the base on which Gabrielle Chanel, known as Coco, founded herself. From her birth on 19 August 1883, she was under the astrological sign. Later on, she saw the feline as a lucky charm, a guardian angel. It is said that there were tons of lions decorating her apartment on Rue Cambon in Paris. The lion was also the protector of her creations, evidenced by engravings on the buttons of her tweed suits and on the clasps of her handbags. The lion held a very important place in her life, a place which was only enhanced by her first trip to Venice in 1920 (the lion of Saint Mark was her emblem) following the death of Boy Capel, her great love.
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Black is the quintessential Chanel colour.
The red rubies arouse and intensify the black movement.
The lion’s seal guards the passing of time.
31 WHAT’S NEW
Be
devoted to... elegance
Photographers : Laurence Steyt & JosÊ-Luis Alvira Model : Helena ¡ Dominique Models Agency Acknowledgements : Natan, Marc Cain.
Bouverne Exclusive jewellery. Watch: Chanel Boy-friend
ON THE COVER
Jewellery Pomellato: Earrings and rings, Nudo collection. Necklace in pink brushed gold, bracelet Tango collection.
Jewellery Pasquale Bruni, Bon Ton collection. Watch: Â Breguet Reine de Naples.
Earrings, rings and pendant by Bouverne Exclusive collection. Watch: Rolex Cellini.
Dodo by Pomellato, jewellery and watch.
Bouverne Exclusive jewellery. Watch:Â Breguet Reine de Naples.
Stretch sequin top and long silk mikado skirt. Fall/Winter Collection 2016.
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NATAN in the ModeMuseum Antwerpen Edouard Vermeulen recently donated one of his creations to the Antwerp Fashion Museum. The museum made a film documenting the entire design and manufacturing process of the dress. The film titled “ The Dress” was directed by Jacques Servae.
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SUCCESS STORY
NATAN,
fashion made in Belgium Natan designs are feminine, timeless, elegant and contemporary. A look at the origins of the Belgian fashion house that dresses some of the largest European royal families.
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ashion designer Edouard Vermeulen Paul Natan was founded in 1930. It was revived in 1983 by Edouard Vermeulen, a young interior decorator at the time in search of a space to exhibit his work. Right then he decided to rename the fashion house, thus bringing the brand Natan to life. Little did he know that he was predestined for a career in fashion, and one year later Edouard Vermeulen presented his first collection, at the age of 24. He opened his first prêt-à-porter boutique in Brussels in 1987 and another in Antwerp in 1988. Today, Edouard Vermeulen has been making his mark on the Belgium women’s fashion scene for over 30 years and is the greatest representative of Belgian fashion for women in the international arena. In 2003, he was honoured with the insignia of Officer of the Order of King Leopold II for his talent and career.
Edouard Vermeulen surrounded by his models at a fashion show.
Purveyor to the Royal Court of Belgium The Natan fashion house has been a licensed supplier to the Royal Court of Belgium since 2000. In fact, it created a stir one earlier with
The Natan fashion house has been a licensed supplier to the Royal Court of Belgium since 2000. its design for Princess Mathilde’s wedding dress for her marriage to Prince Philippe, thus earning the brand some of its fame. Edouard Vermeulen then gradually started creating
fashion for other European royal families, including those of the Netherlands, Sweden and Luxembourg. More recently, in 2012, he distinguished himself by dressing Countess Stephanie de Lannoy for her engagement. Queen Maxima also wore a Natan creation to the abdication of Queen Beatrix in 2013. The fashion house’s style Over the years, Edouard Vermeulen has created his own unique, feminine, elegant and refined style. His outfits have a look suited to the refined woman of today. The designer loves luxurious, solid fabrics – you will find very few printed fabrics in his creations. The same is true for the decorations, which are limited to a single detail, for example a bow. Edouard Vermeulen also enjoys working with volumes, a tendency no doubt inherited from his interior design studies. The designer himself claims to have a structured approach and to prefer a minimalist style. “There were never any frills in the house” he stated recently in a Belgian newspaper.
39 SUCCESS STORY
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What is your birthstone? January: Garnet February: Amethyst March: Aquamarine April: Diamond May: Emerald June: Alexandrite July: Ruby August: Peridot September: Blue sapphire October: Tourmaline November: Citrine December: Tanzanite
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REPORT
The stones that shower us in a rainbow of colours
Coloured stones have always fascinated us with their beauty and rarity. Precious, fine or organic, they all come from the centre of the Earth. From rubies to opals to tanzanite, each stone captures the light like nothing else.
M
any millions of years ago… There is no precise date as to the formation of stones under the Earth’s surface, but we do know that it dates back to tens of millions, if not billions, of years ago, and it occurred in different types of rocks (volcanic, metamorphic and sedimentary). While it’s true that some stones are able to form in different environments, we make a distinction between stones that come from volcanic rocks or liquid substances (rubies, sapphires, emeralds, amethysts and many others), stones resulting from changes due to the environment (tanzanite, lapis lazuli, etc.), stones that come from surface rocks (opal, agate, etc.) and those that form in the Earth’s mantle (which is the case of the diamond).
Stone extraction The place where precious and semi-precious stones are found is called a deposit. It becomes a mine when gemstones begin to be extracted from it. A single
diamonds, many criteria are taken into account to determine a stone’s value, including colour, weight, cut, clarity, rarity, etc. Colour is obviously one of the main factors in determining the value of a coloured precious or semi-precious stone. Its hue, its nuances, its intensity and the way it plays with light are some of the characteristics considered by a gemmologist. The colour of a stone, for its part, depends on its chemical composition and/or on the formation of crystals. Some stones, such as tourmaline, bring together all the colours of the rainbow. The value of a coloured gemstone also varies according to its weight, which is expressed in carats (one carat equals 0.20 grams). And hardness is another factor taken into account, which is determined using the Mohs scale, a scale that grades stones from 1 to 10 based on a mineral of reference, with the diamond being the hardest. Finally, another important criterion: the cut. Indeed, cutting a stone well unveils all its beauty. That is where the lapidary comes in; only he or she knows how to cut stones. Different cuts for gemstones include cabochon, heartshaped, cushion cut, pear-shaped, baguette, princess, etc.
The colour of a stone depends on its chemical composition and/or on the formation of crystals.
deposit can sometimes lead to the creation of several mines. Precious and semi-precious stone deposits are primarily concentrated in an area that extends from the Tropic of Cancer to the north to the Tropic of Capricorn to the south. A distinction is made between the type of deposit, either primary or secondary. In the former, gemstones are found in the place where they were formed, while in the latter, we find gemstones which have been displaced as a result of erosion. The importance of colour Although experts are not in agreement regarding a system to grade coloured stones like the one used for
Stones that heal? Lithotherapy is a method of healing that assures that the energy released by stones can cure different ailments. For example, citrine (the stone of happiness and joy) drives away fatigue, emerald improves eyesight, blue sapphire relieves tension, opal promotes sleep, ruby reinforces confidence, tanzanite stimulates the imagination, etc. When buying your next piece of jewellery, you can now knowingly choose the stone that best suits you!
41 REPORT
ThE souRCE of BlACK diAMoNd Nicknamed “Carbonado” by the Portuguese in the 17th century for its resemblance to coal. other places of extraction: Mainly Brazil.
EMERAld From a Persian word meaning “green stone”. other places of extraction: Brazil, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Madagascar…
ColoMBiA BRAzil
CiTRiNE From the Latin word citrus. other places of extraction: Madagascar, Bolivia, united States, Myanmar, Namibia, Russia…
sPEssARTiTE gARNET From the Spessart mountains in germany, where it was discovered in 1832. other places of extraction: Mainly the African continent (Mozambique, Nigeria, Tanzania and Madagascar).
The Emerald is the green variety of beryl. Classified as one of the four traditional precious stones alongside sapphire, ruby and diamond, the emerald was discovered around 2000 BC near the Red Sea. Colombia is the primary producer today. The mines of Muzo, Coscuez and Chivor provide the most beautiful specimens, with a particularly intense green.
Citrine is a quartz stone that is yellow in colour due to its iron content. Natural citrine ranges from pale yellow to lemon yellow; however, when these stones are subject to high temperatures, their colour will become darker. Likewise, when heated artificially, amethyst can be transformed into citrine.
The black diamond captivates us with its colour. Moreover, it is an exceptionally hard stone, even harder than conventional diamonds. Although its origin has not yet been precisely determined, some scientists believe that the black diamond results from a chemical reaction with the presence of coal in the ground, while others claim that it was formed by the impact of meteorites.
spessartite garnet, known for its hardness and shine, includes stones of different natures, among which is spessartite (often called mandarin garnet). The mines of this stone were only recently discovered in Namibia and Mozambique in the early 1990s. Its colour ranges from a bright sun orange to a brownish red resulting from its high manganese content.
ColouREd sToNEs
RuBy From the Latin rubeus meaning red. other places of extraction: Thailand, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Kenya, Mozambique…
MyANMAR CENTRAl AfRiCAN REPuBliC
sRi lANKA
MAdAgAsCAR NAMiBiA
AMEThysT From the greek word amethystos meaning “not drunken“. other places of extraction: Brazil, Mexico, uruguay, India, Russia...
Amethyst is a purple variety of quartz. Although it is the most precious of its family, it is widespread throughout the world. Nonetheless, much of it is found in Madagascar. Its colour ranges from purplish pink to deep violet and also includes mauve and purple.
sAPPhiRE From the greek word sappheiros and the Hebrew word sappir which for a long time was used to refer to blue stones. other places of extraction: Mainly Tanzania and Madagascar.
Like the ruby, the sapphire belongs to the corundum family. Most commercially sold sapphires come from Sri Lanka, from the region of Ratnapura, which has been producing the stones since ancient times. That is why we often refer to “Ceylon sapphires”, Ceylon being the former name of the country. The stone’s blue colour comes in all shades, from light to deep. The most sought after stones are from Kashmir with their velvety blue colour.
AusTRAliA
oPAl From the Latin word opalus borrowed from the ancient greek opállios derived from the Sanskrit word upala meaning “precious stone“. other places of extraction: united States, Mexico, Brazil, Ethiopia…
For thousands of years, opals were collected on the territory of the current Slovakia. Today, Australia is the site of the main deposits, which are special because the stone is of sedimentary origin. Opal is characterised by iridescent reflections encompassing all the colours of the rainbow. There are many varieties of opal: black, white, fire, etc. Shakespeare considered it to be the “queen of gems”.
The ruby is part of the corundum family and is the hardest stone after diamonds (9 on the Mohs scale of hardness). Ninety percent of world production comes from Myanmar (formerly Burma), where the most valuable stones are found in the valley of Mogok. The most sought after rubies are “pigeon blood” rubies with their carmine red colour. Ruby colour ranges from light, almost pink, red to purplish red.
43 REPORT
Salma Hayek is the face of Pomellato since 2015.
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Gemmology notes: the topaz Experts do not agree as to the origin of the name topaz; however, according to the Roman philosopher Pliny the Elder, the word comes from the name of the island of Topazos in the Red Sea. Chemically speaking, topaz is a silicate of aluminium and fluorine that gets its colour from iron and chromium. Primarily mined in Brazil, but also in Mozambique and Nigeria, it is particularly popular because of the variety of colours it comes in: it is found in white, yellow, orange, pink, blue, green, purple and even multicoloured.
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MUST HAVE
The Nudo ring BY Pomellato
The Nudo ring is an iconic piece by the Italian jeweller Pomellato which can be worn on its own or mixed and matched, and it comes in different stones and colours. Since 2001, facetted amethyst, topaz, garnet and even prasiolite have been combined with rose or white gold.
Nudo Petit
Nudo with Diamonds
Nudo Classic
T
he origins of Nudo The Nudo ring was created with the bold idea of creating a new way to set the stone in the ring so that the stone and the ring become one. The stone, thus displayed in the nude, inspired the name of the collection: Nudo. The stone mounted on an elegantly simple band seems to float, making it the undisputed star of the piece. Its unique faceting captures the light in an extraordinary way from all its sides. Mixing up styles, Nudo rings, and their wonderful stones, are designed as a subtle mixing and matching game and allow the women who wear them to create their own perfect combination. The birth of an icon The year 2001 was the year the Nudo ring was born. Created to reinterpret the solitaire, the bet paid off: its style, enhanced by vibrantly coloured stones, is no match for other jewellery of this type. While incredible as a solitaire, the Nudo ring is available in such a wide range of colours that there are also endless mixing and matching possibilities. The rings are worn together on one finger, giving them tons of character. Bold and colourful, elegant and contemporary, Nudo is a modern ring that every woman would wear. Many celebrities have also lent their image to the iconic collection, including German
supermodel Nadja Auermann, British actress Tilda Swinton, and the actress Salma Hayek, who has been the face of the brand since 2015.
Nudo Solitaire
Bold and colourful, elegant and contemporary, Nudo is a modern ring that every woman would wear.
An immediate success The Nudo ring has been a huge success since its launch in Italy. Women around the world are hooked, wearing several at the same time and having fun while combining the purple of amethyst with the yellow of citrine or the blue of topaz, depending on their mood and personality. In 2011, to mark the 10th anniversary of Nudo, Pomellato revived its signature ring and released a new size, a Maxi version available in six different colours. New pieces The Nudo collection is not resting on its laurels and is constantly being renewed to continually offer more combinations. After coming out with the Nudo Maxi, Pomellato unveiled a minimal version with a smaller size, the Nudo Petit. A lovely version with a white diamond encrusted ring band has also been released to add a touch of glamour. Lastly, Nudo also exists in a fine jewellery version with the Nudo Solitaire which showcases the different facets of diamonds sapphires, rubies, emeralds and white diamonds). Moreover, today the irresistible Nudo collection also comes in ear studs and pendants to accompany you and your beautiful Nudo ring(s).
45 MUST HAVE
Our new
jewellery
Chaumet Attrape-moi… si tu m’aimes
The Attrape-moi collection pays tribute to the bee, a symbol of the divine and eternal power of Napoleon I. Below, ring and pendant in 18-carat pink gold with pavé diamonds and embellished with a pink opal cabochon. The ring features an additional brilliant-cut amethyst and a heart-shaped pyrope garnet.
Pasquale Bruni Petit Garden
Dodo Lune
This collection of jewellery which can be worn alone or stacked was inspired by the hidden gardens of Milan full of stunning floral landscapes. Here, white gold necklace set with white diamonds and rose gold ring with pavé white and champagne diamonds.
The essence of Dodo jewellery is to tell stories. Opposite, pendant and stud earring in 9-carat rose gold. The white diamonds will shine on your neck.
Mattioli Puzzle
An icon of the brand, the Puzzle collection plays with shapes and colours. Above, rose and white gold ring set with white diamonds and bracelet in rose gold and mother-of-pearl.
Pomellato M’ama Non M’ama
Bursting with colour, the M’ama Non M’ama line can be mixed and matched in different ways. Opposite, ring and earrings in brushed and polished rose gold set with amethyst and tsavorites ensuring a colour-blocking effect. 47 Selection of Jewellery
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Chaumet offers three series of jewellery creations: Liens, Joséphine and Jardins. Each series is comprised of several collections. Liens consists of pieces from the collections Liens, Premiers Liens and Jeux de Liens; Joséphine brings together the collections Eclat Floral, Aube Printanière, Aigrette, Aigrette Impériale and Rondes de nuit; while Jardins is comprised of the creations Attrape-moi si tu m’aimes, Bee my Love and Hortensia. The latter, moreover, includes the sub-collections Astres d’Or, Aube Rosée and Voie Lactée.
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Offrandes d’été tiara in white gold set with a 3.10 carat pear-shaped DVVS2 diamond and brilliant-cut diamonds. La Nature de Chaumet, L’Epi de Blé.
THE UNIVERSE OF A MAISON
Jewellery
according to Chaumet Founded by Marie-Etienne Nitot in 1780, Chaumet was the first Parisian jeweller to have set up its workshop on the famous Place Vendôme. Official jeweller of Empress Josephine, its history is inherently intertwined with the history of France. The Maison did not receive its current name until 1885, when Joseph Chaumet took control.
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xceptional savoir-faire In the late 18th century, MarieEtienne Nitot was the most fashionable jeweller in Europe. Indeed, even before becoming the official jeweller of Empress Josephine, he was that of Napoleon I, who had an undeniable taste for jewellery. This is how Marie-Etienne Nitot acquired an excellent reputation and a loyal and prestigious clientele. He infused in his successors a concern for quality and originality, values which continue to exist in all of the Maison’s creations. For over two centuries, the excellent savoir-faire of Chaumet is handed down to the many artisans involved in manufacturing jewellery in the heart of the workshop located at 12 Place Vendôme in Paris: gemmologists, designers, jewellers, setters, engravers, etc. Once the diamonds and precious stones have been selected by the gemmologists (who negotiate the best price according to a very precise schedule of charges), the other artisans work step by step to bring the piece of jewellery to life.
garden consisting of pieces comprising the ranges Le Blé, Le Laurier, Le Lys and Le Chêne, four motifs chosen for their expressive value. The tiara, a masterpiece The tiara has been one of the signature creations of Chaumet since its inception. Having made thousands of them for monarchies and aristocratic families, the Maison continues to reinvent this piece, having updated it several years ago to suit today’s tastes. Creating a tiara draws on ancestral savoirfaire and requires many steps, including the creation of a threedimensional model in nickel silver which allows the creation to be tailored to the shape of the head and to the way it will be worn. Other steps involved in creating a tiara are shaping, preparation of the setting, polishing and re-cutting diamonds. Today, between 500 and 1500 hours of work are needed to make a tiara.
From the beginning, Chaumet has always been inspired by nature and has depicted the entire natural universe in its creations.
The Haute Joaillerie pieces Chaumet’s haute joaillerie pieces are true works of art created from scratch by the artisans at the Maison who design, cut and set the pieces. They are unique pieces made with the most precious of stones and materials. From the beginning, Chaumet has always been inspired by nature and has depicted the entire natural universe in its creations, including its haute joaillerie creations with the new theme La Nature de Chaumet. It reinvents a symbolic
A rich heritage Since 1780, Marie-Etienne Nitot had the idea of preserving the brand’s history. This is why today Chaumet has an exceptional historical collection unprecedented in the jewellery industry. An annex to the shop on Place Vendôme in Paris holds hundreds of thousands of drawings, paintings and photographs, as well as hundreds of tiara nickel silver models and numerous pieces of antique jewellery. From time to time, these treasures are on display and can be viewed by the general public in temporary exhibitions.
Haute Joaillerie necklace, ring and earrings from the Racines Célestes, La Nature de Chaumet collection.
At the top of the page and opposite, tiara and ring from the Joséphine Aigrette Impériale collection.
49 THE UNIVERSE OF A MAISON
RolEx day-date 40 This is the first wristwatch to display the day of the week written out in letters in a window on the dial. Here it is shown in Everose gold, an exclusive alloy made by Rolex. Refined, its dial comes in chocolate tones. This wonderful piece is equipped with a new-generation movement, the 3255 calibre.
BREguET Tradition The first completely feminine reference in the Tradition collection comes in an 18-carat white gold case measuring 37 mm in diameter fitted with a bezel set with 68 brilliant-cut diamonds. This stunning watch has an off-centre sub-dial in Tahitian mother-of-pearl with guilloche decoration done by hand. Its crown is set with a watch movement jewel.
Our new timepieces ChANEl j12 xs A watchmaking icon, this ceramic watch is now available in an extra-small 19 mm format. In black and featuring a steel case, the J12 XS has a bezel set with 32 diamonds. It is attached to a black patent leather strap and can also be worn with a matte black calfskin cuff.
CARTiER Clé de Cartier Small version of the Clé de Cartier for women in steel with a 31 mm diameter. Its silvered flinqué dial features Roman numerals for markers, blued-steel swordshaped hands and a date window at 6 o’clock, all of which are protected by a sapphire crystal.
ChANEl Boy friend Tweed Petit Modèle The Chanel Boy Friend watch is shown here in a steel version with a bezel set with 62 diamonds. It is paired with a tweed pattern bracelet and features a black spinel cabochon. Its guilloche dial, which is also black, displays hours and minutes and the date at 6 o’clock.
loNgiNEs Equestrian Collection Inspired by the equestrian world, as its name suggests, this stainless steel 26 mm watch features a bezel set with 57 diamonds, not including the 11 additional diamonds serving as the hour markers on the white mother-ofpearl dial, which itself is enhanced by blued-steel hands. The strap comes in brown leather.
foR hER
TudoR heritage Black Bay 36 The Heritage Black Bay now comes in a smaller format, perfectly suited to a woman’s wrist, for an elegant, sporty look. The watch features the collection’s characteristic angular hands. A strap in aged beige leather complements the piece.
BAuME & MERCiER Petite Promesse Feminine and colourful, the Petite Promesse has a (small) diameter of 22 mm. With a rounded, oval shape, this jewellery watch boasts set diamonds and motherof-pearl and is shown here with a double wrap-around strap in fashionable blue leather.
51 SElECTiON Of TiMEPiECES
© Philip Van Ootegem
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Charles Dekeyser began singing for health reasons. He sang his first opera aria at the age of 19. Today, at the age of 30, he will participate in the prestigious festival dedicated to Mozart in Salzburg, Austria.
INTERVIEW
A chat with Charles Dekeyser
Born in Ghent, the young bass singer Charles Dekeyser already has a busy career. A chat with who will be singing Mozart’s Requiem during Mozart Week in January 2017 in Salzburg, Austria.
W
here does your passion for music and singing come from? At what point did you decide to make it your career? I began singing for health reasons. I started, among other ways, with breathing/voice lessons with Martine Reyners in Brussels. They were exercises to relax, to tap into one’s energy, to express oneself better, etc. The three key words were: analyse, build and harmonise, all by voice. That was when I discovered I had a voice, and I sang my first opera aria at the age of 19. I did that for some years; then I enrolled at a conservatory. Today I am completely healed; my health is perfect. It was natural, therefore, that I decided to make it my job, just because it was good for my health and it made me feel good. I’ve never thought about doing anything else. And then I also discovered that I loved being on stage, acting, etc. and that music made me happy. Can you tell us about participating in the prestigious Queen Elisabeth Competition where you were a semi-finalist in the singing category? I studied at the Queen Elisabeth Music Chapel with the Belgian baritone José van Dam. Together we decided to take part in the competition, and then I wanted to do so as a Belgian. Competitions are not really my thing. I prefer doing concerts for the beauty of the music, to touch and to communicate with the audience. By contrast, we can see a competition like a big audition, giving you the chance to make yourself known and to meet a lot of people. In a competition, we often think that the best one is the one who wins, but that’s not always true. Sometimes you will never hear about the winner again, but the one who was eliminated in the first round will have a great career. It’s a bit like a lottery sometimes; it depends on many criteria. Me, for example, in that contest, I sang very late at night, at 10.30 pm. I didn’t have a lot of energy when I went on stage after a day full of adrenaline and stress. I’m still happy to have participated and to have experienced it, even though I don’t think I will participate in a competition again.
How are you preparing for Mozart Week? Is this your first time? I’ve already participated in other festivals like the one in Verbier, Switzerland two years ago and the one in Aix-en-Provence, France. But it’s the first time in Salzburg. I will work with Les Musiciens du Louvre and its conductor Marc Minkowski with whom I have already worked a lot before. He was the one who suggested I participate. We will do Mozart’s Requiem. I already did it in Spain and in Belgian. I think it’s wonderful. I also remember the film Amadeus well when Mozart, on his deathbed, writes Requiem, which he will never finish. It is Süssmayr, another composer, who finishes it for him. I love this work. Since I’m already familiar with it, I don’t have to study much before the performance. But I’ll start with coaching sessions about one month before.
I’m a big fan of Bach, but at the same time I also love the great romantics like Verdi and Wagner. What is the best memory of your career as of today? Which character have you most liked singing? What I love about this job is being able to travel. I also love the fact that every concert, every production is different. It all depends on the role, on the people you work with (conductor, directors, singers, etc.). A role that I really enjoy right now as a young bass (knowing that 30 years old is still young for a bass) is Christ in St Matthew Passion by Bach. I truly feel that at my age and with my skills, it is the perfect role. I also love doing recitals, singing/piano concertos or oratorios, where there is no staging or costumes. There are singers who prefer doing operas and dressing up. I like this too, but I also like being myself in front of the
audience. For example, I’ve done productions at the Zurich opera (Charles D was a member of the International Opera Studio Opernhaus for one year until June 2016). I played several roles in Purcell’s King Arthur, and to do so I had six or seven different costumes, including one in gold with glitter. I had a beard, long hair and a pillow as a big belly! I felt really different from the Charles I am, but I also find it nice to dress up from time to time. Which works would you like to add to your repertoire and why? I’m a big fan of Bach, but at the same time I also love the great romantics like Verdi and Wagner. But as a young bass, it’s a bit too soon for me to play a role in these operas. I must still wait… 10, 15, 20 years before being able to sing them. Of the romantics, I also love Mahler and Schubert. Actually, I like oratorio as much as I like romanticism. Moreover, I would also like to create my own shows and not just be a singer in a theatre. In this job, sometimes there is a lack of creativity for me, because we sings works that have existed for hundreds of years and which many people have performed before us. Do you like watches? If so, do you have a preferred brand, model? In fact, I’m passionate about watches (laughs). During my year in Zurich, my favourite street was Bahnhofstrasse, where all the major watch shops are; it’s a slice of paradise! I really like the Omega Speedmaster Professional with chronograph, because it has a history. My grandfather had one, and he gave it to me when he died. Unfortunately, it was stolen from me a few years ago. I love its history, the fact that it went to the moon, that it accompanied the Apollo space missions, etc. There is a connection with my grandfather, yes, but it also has its own history. Today I have a different model of the watch, the one with the moon phase. I love watches for their aesthetic look, for their small architecture, their design, the mechanics. I also love the fact that they can be passed on from generation to generation. And for a man, it’s sort of the only piece of jewellery we can wear.
Thank you very much to Charles Dekeyser for accepting this interview.
53 INTERVIEW
DISCOVER THE CITY
VISITING THE GHENT OPERA HOUSE
GHENT’S RICH CULTURAL HERITAGE IS ONE OF ITS PRIMARY ATTRACTIONS. THE GHENT OPERA HOUSE, THE CONSTRUCTION OF WHICH WAS INITIATED BY WEALTHY GHENT INDUSTRIALISTS IN THE EARLY 19TH CENTURY, IS AMONG THE OUTSTANDING MONUMENTS NOT TO BE MISSED.
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rchitecture designed by Louis Roelandt The luxurious auditorium and its exceptional sparkle, along with the three connected salons spread out over 90 metres (the Foyer, the Redoute Salon and the Lully Hall), attests to the splendour of the Ghent Opera House, which was built to showcase the wealth of Ghent industrialist during the first half of the 19th century. Dating back to 1840, the extravagant horseshoe-shaped auditorium was designed by the Belgian architect Louis Roelandt (1786-1864) and decorated by the Parisian decorators Philastre and Cambon. Louis Roelandt played an important role in his time by popularising neoclassic and eclectic styles. He was the official architect of the city of Ghent for nearly 30 years and crucial in determining how the city looked architecturally speaking. He also designed the Aula Magna of Ghent University (1826) and the city’s courthouse. Aviel Cahn, director of the Ghent Opera The Ghent Opera is part of the Flemish Opera
54 DISCOVER THE CITY
(Vlaamse Opera), an association responsible for producing operas, concerts and recitals in Ghent and Antwerp. Aviel Cahn, born in Zurich in 1974, has directed the Ghent Opera since 2009, succeeding Marc Clémeur. Beforehand, he worked as director of International Artistic
DATING BACK TO 1840, THE EXTRAVAGANT HORSESHOE-SHAPED AUDITORIUM WAS DESIGNED BY THE BELGIAN ARCHITECT LOUIS ROELANDT. and Business Relations for the China National Symphony Orchestra in Beijing and as the head of planning and casting for the Finnish National Opera. Since his appointment, the
opera has opened up to a younger audience by offering a fresher programme with sometimes controversial works. The Flanders Symphony Orchestra Created in 1960, the Flanders Symphony Orchestra is composed of 60 musicians. It performs and creates new compositions and plays the main symphonic repertoire from the classical period onwards. The orchestra is often invited to play internationally, whether in Germany, France or the Netherlands. The British conductor Jan Latham-Koenig has been the chief conductor over the past several years. Considered one of the best conductors from the United Kingdom, he has extensive experience, including as artistic director of the Moscow Novaya Opera.
The Ghent Opera House Schouwburgstraat 3 (+32) 9 268 10 11 www.operaballet.be/nl
Watch complications
The fabulous story of tourbillon
The tourbillon mechanism (or rotating cage) was created to counter the effects of the earth’s gravity on the action of the movement, but it can also improve a watch’s accuracy. It was invented in 1801 by the Swiss born French watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet.
T
he birth of tourbillon Abraham-Louis Breguet based his work on the observation that gravity is the enemy of the regularity of horological movements, causing variations in timing adjustment with each change of position of a watch when worn. Indeed, at the time, watches were carried in a pocket and the balance varied according to the different vertical positions of the spring under the effects of gravity. The oscillation of the balance, which determines a watch’s accuracy, then slowed or accelerated, thus causing the watch to gain or lose time. To solve this problem, A-L. Breguet came up with * the idea of putting the centre of the watch (that is, the balance, the spring and the escapement) inside a mobile carriage that turns around on itself (usually once per minute) through the use of the gears of the watch, thus offsetting the negative influence gravity has on the operation of the watch’s movement. In making a complete rotation on its own axis, the rotating cage of a timepiece successively takes on all vertical positions, thus correcting any malfunction of the regulator and effectively making each piece composing it move constantly regardless of its position. A symbol of watchmaking excellence An extremely complex mechanism, the tourbillon has become a symbol of watchmaking excellence and is highly regarded by collectors. Only a handful of manufacturers, workshops and craftspeople are truly
“ The Tradition collection pays a vibrant tribute to the memory of Breguet, here the model Tradition 7087.
capable of producing this fascinating mechanism that is comprised of 60 to 70 components usually weighing less than one gram. On more contemporary watches, the tourbillon is often visible in a small opening in the dial commonly placed at 6 o’clock or 12 o’clock. It is also known as a flying tourbillon when the cage is supported on only one side. As for the carrousel, while its basic principal is similar to that of a tourbillon, it is distinguished by the fact that the regulating organ is placed on a platform which makes it rotates like a wooden horse on a merry-go-round. Tradition 7087 Breguet has been known for creating outstanding timepieces since its creation. It is therefore not surprising that its customers have included Queen Marie-Antoinette, Napoleon Bonaparte and Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. The Tradition 7087 model is the result of completely new research that has allowed the watchmaker to bring together the brand’s most recent innovations. Equipped with a generous 44 mm case, it comes in an 18-carat rose gold case with a fluted caseband. Its dial, also in gold, is offset at half past one and features handguilloche, an hour chapter with Roman numerals and blued steel hands. Each dial is individually numbered and signed Breguet. The Tradition 7087 is powered by a self-winding mechanical movement with minute repeater and 60-second tourbillon located at 6 o’clock featuring, among other details, titanium baseplate and bridges. It is the calibre 565DR comprised of 687 components and 58 jewels. Its power reserve, which is displayed in a window at 12 o’clock, is 80 hours. * Classique “Grande Complication” pocket watch.
Abraham Louis-Breguet Abraham Louis-Breguet was born in 1747 in Neuchâtel, Switzerland. He first learned about watchmaking in Verrières, near his hometown, and later over a period of a decade in Versailles. He subsequently opened his own workshop at 39 Quai de l’Horloge on the Île de la Cité in Paris in 1775. It was not long before he earned an excellent reputation for his qualities as an inventor. He was responsible for many major technical advances in the watch industry. Among his most notable inventions, along with the tourbillon, are the gong-spring for repeater watches in 1783, the “pare-chute” shock protection system in 1790 and the Breguet balance spring in 1795.
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57 Watch complications
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The competition in numbers Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez was created 35 years ago. For it, 4,000 crew members gather together on the water and on land, in addition to 300 of the world’s most beautiful modern and classic boats. The event is supported by a team of nearly 100 volunteers.
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© Gilles Martin-Raget
EVENT
lEs VoilEs dE sAiNT-TRoPEz A gATHERINg OF TRADITIONAL AND MODERN YACHTS the 18th editioN of les voiles de saiNt-tropez was held from 24 septemBer to 2 octoBer. a look at this Not-to-Be-missed reNdezvous which coNtiNues to draw crowds.
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es Voiles de Saint-Tropez is the heir to the Nioulargue, a friendly rally that started in 1981 when the captain of a boat wanted to challenge another boat in the Bay of Saint-Tropez. Founded by Patrice de Colmont, the current director of Club 55, today the Société Nautique de Saint-Tropez is responsible for organising the event, with André Beaufils holding the reigns. Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez includes three types of boats: classic yachts (built before 1975), modern yachts (built after 1975) and Wally sail yachts (high-end, ultra-modern yachts).
This 18th edition brought together in the Mediterranean waters of the Bay of Saint-Tropez nearly 4,000 participants to race joyfully and in good spirit over a period of one week. Each day, the yachts go out on the sea to take part in races divided by category, and several trophies are awarded to the yachts coming in first. On Thursday, skippers and crew are put to the test on the traditional Challenge Day. Moreover, a new category has emerged, the «guest” class, reviving a tradition dating back to the early editions of the Nioulargue. Yet, Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez is also a big party on land. The regatta enlivens the entire village with numerous activities around the
harbour and in the streets, the most popular of which is the parade of crews every year. It was in fact a completely redesigned village that welcomed the participants and visitors this year. The festivities continued alongside the Place des Lices with, among other activities, a mechanical bull, arm wrestling and tugof-war, not to mention the famous boules contest. As every year, the awards ceremony took place at the Citadel of Saint-Tropez. Although there is no winner in Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, a cup is awarded to the top three in each category. On your agenda: the next edition will be held from 30 September to 8 October 2017. 59 EVENT
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Why “Oyster”? Hans Wilsdorf stated in 1945: “The fact that, like an oyster, it can remain an unlimited time under water without detriment to its parts, gave me the idea of christening it the ‘Rolex Oyster’, the name under which it has become famous throughout the world.”
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Submariner Date in 18-carat gold with a blue dial (40 mm).
Expedition “Deepsea under the Pole by Rolex“ in 2010.
Sea-Dweller 4000 in 904L stainless steel with a black dial (40 mm).
Deepsea in 904L stainless steel with a D-blue dial (44 mm).
ANNIVERSARY
Rolex Oyster: 90 years
of watertightness, a major watchmaking innovation In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf, founder of Rolex, invented the Oyster, the world’s first watertight wristwatch. A look back on a technical and human adventure.
A
short reminder of the facts In 1926, Hans Wilsdorf registered a patent for the invention of a screw-down crown on a stem tube attached to a watch case where the components, which were also screw-down, made it possible to solve all sealing problems. With the Oyster, he explained, “it was no longer necessary to remove the watch to wash one’s hands or bathe, or while at work in a dusty workshop or when perspiring profusely”. Nevertheless, the Oyster had a flaw: a gap opened when unscrewing the crown and allowed moisture and contaminants to infiltrate the watch. After several years of research, Rolex filed a series of patents in the early 1930s for a self-winding mechanism with a free rotor called “Perpetual” which would later become the standard adopted by the entire watch industry. When the Oyster crossed the English Channel On 7 October 1927, Hans Wilsdorf gave one of the first models to the swimmer Mercedes Gleitze for her crossing of the English Channel. After over 10 hours in the water, the
First octagonal Oyster and the Daily Mail’s front page illustrating his exploits in 1927.
watch still worked perfectly. To celebrate the achievement, he took out a full page ad in the English newspaper Daily Mail proclaiming the success. Since then, many adventurers have used Oyster watches in extreme conditions, whether at sea, in the air or at the peak of the highest mountains.
the crown logo went even further in 1967 with the Sea-Dweller model, which ensured water resistance to 610 metres when it was released and subsequently to 1,220 metres starting in 1978. Lastly, the Deepsea model –presented in 2008– illustrated Rolex’s supremacy in mastering watertightness with a guaranteed water resistance to 3,900 metres.
0n 7 October 1927, Hans Wilsdorf gave one of the first models to the swimmer Mercedes Gleitze for her crossing of the English Channel.
Rolex Deepsea Challenge Echoing the historic dive of the bathyscaphe Trieste on 23 January 1960, during which a prototype Rolex Oyster accompanied the submersible into the abyss, Rolex actively participated in the expedition Deepsea Challenge by director and explorer James Cameron in partnership with the National Geographic Society. On 26 March 2012, the Deepsea Challenger descended to 10,908 metres to the Challenger Deep, the deepest point in the ocean, which is located in the Mariana Trench in the Pacific Ocean southwest of Guam. A prototype Rolex Deepsea Challenge diving watch was attached to the vessel’s articulated arm: the watch ran accurately throughout the dive under extreme pressure, without stopping once.
Ever increasing water resistance In 1953, Rolex released the Oyster Perpetual Submariner, an iconic model which is now watertight to 300 metres. The brand with
61 ANNIVERSARY
Hour hands and markers and small seconds sub-dial coated with green Super-LumiNovaÂŽ.
Black rubber strap.
Minute hands and immersion time indication on the rotating bezel coated with blue Super-LumiNovaÂŽ. Black dial with applied luminous Arabic numerals and dots. Device protecting the crown.
Screw-down pushers on the left.
Brushed titanium case measuring 47 mm in diameter.
Small seconds.
Anti-clockwise unidirectional rotating bezel with graduated scale in matte black ceramic.
Panerai
luMiNoR suBMERsiBlE 1950 3 dAys ChRoNo flyBACK AuToMATiC TiTANio
A true diving watch equipped with a self-winding movement, the calibre P.9100, made entirely by Panerai and offering a 3-day power reserve. It features hour, minute, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph, seconds reset and calculation of immersion time functions. Watertight to approximately 300 metres.
A ClOSER lOOK
Titanium and steel case measuring 42 mm in diameter. Hour hands with a square tip referred to as “snowflake”.
Blue dial.
Date window at 3 o’clock.
Screw-down crown in titanium adorned with the Tudor logo.
Luminous hands and markers.
Matte blue ceramic disc.
Blue rubber strap with pin buckle and extra extension piece.
unidirectional rotating bezel in titanium.
Tudor PElAgos
This Pelagos is equipped with the manufacture Tudor MT5612 movement, a self-winding mechanical movement with bi-directional rotor system which builds up a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. In addition, the movement is certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Did you know? The word pelagos means «deep sea» in greek. The watch is watertight to 500 metres. 63 A ClOSER lOOK
Vintage trend
Vintage has earned a prominent place in recent years in our society, and the watch industry has not remained on the sidelines of this phenomenon. Every year, major watchmakers release contemporary heirs worthy of their iconic models.
Self-winding mechanical movement, calibre P.4001 (power reserve: 3 days).
Small seconds and 24-hour indicator.
Date window. gMT function with central hand indicating the time in a second time zone.
Polished steel case measuring 45 mm in diameter.
Luminescent index.
Black dial adorned with raised vertical stripes.
Calf Assolutamente strap.
Panerai
RAdioMiR 1940 3 dAys gMT AuToMATiC ACCiAio
At the dawn of World War II, Panerai developed the first prototype of the Radiomir watch for Italian Navy combat divers. The aim was to provide frogmen with a watertight, extremely sturdy watch that had a reliable mechanism and was equipped with a dial that was perfectly legible even in the dark and under water. Many of these characteristics can be found on the current models in the collection. Radiomir is the term used at the time to refer to the luminescent substance patented by the brand to enhance the legibility of the dial.
A ClOSER lOOK
Bronze case measuring 43 mm in diameter.
Snowflake hands.
Domed dial and glass.
Bronze “Big Crown” winder adorned with a Tudor rose.
Manufacture movement Tudor MT560 (power reserve: 70 hours).
Luminescent index.
unidirectional rotating bezel in bronze with a matte brown disc.
Woven jacquard strap in brown (it’s an additional strap; the watch comes with an aged leather strap).
Tudor
hERiTAgE BlACK BAy BRoNzE
Inspired by travels and adventures, the Heritage Black Bay Bronze is linked to the origins of Tudor. In fact, the Heritage Black Bay Bronze draws its inspiration from the first diving watch launched by the brand in 1954, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner, seen at the time as an understated, functional and reliable tool. And it has continued to evolve since then. Bronze, historically used in the nautical industry, gives this new model the same robustness as the original one. Moreover, a beautiful patina develops over time. 65 A ClOSER lOOK
Bouverne Exclusive collection
jewellery
Bracelet in 18-carat white gold with F/VVs diamonds weighing a total of 3.17 ct.
Solitaire with a 3.11 ct D/SI2 diamond with two 0.68 ct tapers. Accompanied by a GIA certificate.
Philippe Halsman, Dali’s Mustache, 1953.
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The concepts of soft and hard seem to appear constantly in the works of Salvador Dalí. In The Persistence of Memory, hard is represented by the landscape of Portlligat in the background, symbolising the real world where memory persists in the form of a setting dear to the artist, a place where he spent much of his youth and his life.
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ART
Salvador Dalí The Persistence of Memory
The work The Persistence of Memory, popularly known as The Melting Watches, was painted by the Catalan artist Salvador Dalí in 1931. It represents the Portlligat beach in Catalonia, where one can see four pocket watches as well as other objects and unusual shapes.
A
n artist with a complex personality Located in northern Catalonia, Figueres is the village where Salvador Dalí (1904-1989) was born and where he died. He had a tormented childhood which was marked by the death of his older brother. Obsessed with his lost brother, at a very young age he decided to show the world his unique personality. Very early on, he also showed an affinity for art and began studying drawing. Some years later, he was admitted to the Academia de San Fernando in Madrid, where he honed his art skills. It was at this time that he met the filmmaker Luis Buñuel and the poet Federico García Lorca. He also came into contact with Pablo Picasso, André Breton, Paul Eluard and René Magritte during a trip to Paris in 1926, and later joined the Surrealist group. In 1929, he met Elena Diakonova, the wife of poet Paul Eluard, with whom he fell in love at first sight. This woman, who he nicknamed Gala, became the muse of his life and his work. Dalí then became interested in Freud’s psychoanalytic techniques and subsequently created his own called the “paranoic-critical”
© Gala-Salvador Dalí Foundation / Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York.
method. At the time, he painted works full of oneiric and fantastic elements similar to those found in his work The Persistence of Memory.
“surrealism, it is me “ Salvador Dalí, Diary of a Genius. A Surrealist work An heir of Dadaism, Surrealism is a cultural movement that reached its peak under the leadership of André Breton, who defined it as “Psychic automatism in its pure state, by which one proposes to express — verbally, by means of the written word, or in any other manner — the actual functioning of thought. Dictated by the thought, in the absence of any control exercised by reason, exempt from any aesthetic or moral concern.” Such is the case of the imaginary setting of The Persistence of Memory. Typical
of Surrealism, the painting combines real and imaginary objects, including four “melting” watches, one of which is entirely covered in ants (symbolising putrefaction), another which seems to be spreading over the edge of what could be a terrace, a third located on a large white shape lying on the floor, and a fourth which is hanging over the branch of a dead tree. The melting watches In his autobiography, Salvador Dalí explains how he came up with the idea of his famous melting watches. He recounts that one evening, at the end of his meal finished off with soft Camembert cheese, he decided to paint the landscape that served as a backdrop for the melting watches. For the artist, they are “nothing more than the soft, extravagant, solitary, paranoiac-critical Camembert cheese of space and time”. Yet, the softness of the watches also represents the psychological aspect of the speed of time, which, although scientifically accurate, may vary in human perception. With these watches, Dalí annuls their primary function of indicating the time and suggests that the passage of time be set free. Time is thus eternal and everything is possible. 71 ART
DISCOVER THE CITY
gravensteen
EXPLORINg THE CASTLE OF THE COuNTS OF FLANDERS a tourist mecca, the castle of the couNts of flaNders (GRAVENSTEEN iN dutch) has the distiNctioN of BeiNg located iN the heart of the city. modelled after the crusader castles fouNd iN syria, it still preserves its imposiNg circular walls. 3D work of artist Andrew Foresman.
A
little history The first fortification of the castle was built on the ruins of an old castle constructed by the Count of Flanders Arnulf 1 (918-965). This was then replaced in the early 11th century by a stone residence, and the castle became the centre of a regional administrative unit. A century later, thanks to Count Thierry of Alsace (1128-1168), father of Philippe of Alsace, a mound was created around the stone central building with earth dug up from the moat. The present-day castle was built in 1180 by Philippe of Alsace (11681191), at which time the castle mound was made higher and wider and the central building became a mighty donjon, standing at about 30 metres tall. The castle served as the residence of the counts of Flanders until the 14th century, when it was replaced by the Prinsenhof for reasons of comfort. In fact, the castle was exchanged for a mansion in this neighbourhood, where Charles V was born in 1500. The Council of Flanders subsequently set up a regional court in the castle and it was used as a prison. In the 18th century, some of the buildings were put up for sale and the former castle mound was bought by engineer 72 DiSCOVER THE CiTY
Current view of the Castle of the Counts.
Jean-Baptiste Brismaille, who transformed it into an industrial complex: a cotton mill and a metal construction workshop came to occupy the buildings. Later on, it fell into a state of abandonment and was owned by the city. Works to restore the castle began in 1893, following the example of French restorer Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. It was finally opened to the public in 1907.
ThE PREsENT-dAy CAsTlE WAs BuilT iN 1180 By PhiliPPE of AlsACE (1168-1191). Visiting the castle In addition to visiting the different parts of the castle (crypt, tower, stables, torture chamber, dungeon, etc.), the gravensteen houses a museum of judicial objects and an arms museum, both of which offer permanent exhibitions. The museum of judicial objects
examines the cruelty of justice under the old regime and the role played by the Castle of the Counts between the 14th and 18th centuries, when suspects were locked up, tortured and even executed. There are countless objects for the cruellest of tortures on display (sensitive souls refrain!): handcuffs, thumb screws, a torture wheel, a torture rack, the mask of shame, etc. Meanwhile, the castle’s collection of historical weapons is one of the finest in the region: you can see pistols inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl, crossbows, maces, harnesses, daggers and rapiers, etc. Lastly, do not leave without walking on top of the wall and climbing to the top of the donjon to enjoy stunning panoramic views of the city. You can combine your visit to the Castle of the Counts with a visit to one of the city’s other monuments including St Peter’s Abby, St Bavo’s Cathedral or the Belfry. The castle of the Counts of flanders, gravensteen sint-Veerleplein 11 (+32) 9 266 85 00 Open daily from 10.00 am to 6.00 pm during the summer period (from 1 April to 31 October, inclusive) and daily from 9.00 am to 5.00 pm during the winter period (from 1 november to 31 March).
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The Royal Ascot This year, Longines has celebrated its 10th year as the Official Timekeeper of the Royal Ascot, the most famous equestrian event in Great Britain. Year after year, the races are anticipated by a large number of spectators who come to see the achievements of the fastest horses in the world. The presence of Queen Elizabeth II also makes this a must-attend event for all horse enthusiasts.
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The French rider Simon Delestre and Ryan Hermès horse jumping (FEI / DR).
SPORT
LONGINES
AND EQUESTRIAN SPORTS PARTNERED UP WITH SHOW JUMPING SINCE 1912, THE SWISS WATCH BRAND LONGINES HAS BEEN INVOLVED IN EQUESTRIAN SPORTS FOR MANY YEARS, AND TODAY IT CONTINUES TO PARTICIPATE IN FLAT RACING, ENDURANCE AND EVENTING.
The Longines Equestrian Pocket The Longines Equestrian Pocket Watch Jockey 1878: pocket watch in 18-carat rose gold, replica of a model equipped with the first chronograph made by Longines.
The three new models in the Longines Equestrian collection.
O
nce upon a time… In 1878, Longines developed its first chronograph movement able to measure time down to the second. Since the late 19th century, this development has meant that Longines has held a privileged place in American racetracks. Production of this timepiece (which featured an engraved jockey accompanied by his faithful companion) was the first step in a long history that has led the brand to partner up with institutions, races and show jumping competitions renowned throughout the world. The Longines Masters, an exceptional event The group specialising in equestrian events EEM World drew its inspiration from the tennis Grand Slam and its legendary tournaments to create an event bringing together under one roof the best in show jumping, entertainment and lifestyle. The group was responsible for the revival of the Jumping de Paris in 2009, which subsequently led to the organisation of the Longines Masters at an international level with
a first edition in Hong Kong in 2013 followed by an American stage of the event in Los Angeles in 2014. In 2015, this international trilogy became
in the world, every year the Longines Masters attracts the best horse riders and horses on the planet in a magnificent setting with unique staging and innovative event formats.
RENOWNED AS ONE OF THE MOST PRESTIGIOUS EQUESTRIAN EVENTS IN THE WORLD, EVERY YEAR THE LONGINES MASTERS ATTRACTS THE BEST HORSE RIDERS AND HORSES ON THE PLANET.
The Longines Equestrian Collection The fact that Longines has devoted a collection to its passion for equestrian sports should come at no surprise to anyone. Exclusively for her, the models in the Equestrian collection add to the references inspired by the equine world. This year, the collection has been expanded with three new models that carry on with the overall distinctive attributes and are inspired by the rectangular buckle found on the show bridle of the only Swiss horse breed, the Franches-Montagnes. These models feature a 22.00 x 32.00 mm format and house a quartz movement. Two of them have a steel case set with diamonds and are fitted with a stitched leather strap in brown. The other model, featuring a stainless steel case, is complemented by a stainless steel bracelet. Lastly, the dials come in different options: black or silver, Roman numerals or diamonds indexes – up to you, ladies.
known as the Longines Masters Series “Grand Slam Indoor of Show Jumping”. Renowned as one of the most prestigious equestrian events
75 SPORT
The cobra, Carroll Shelby ‘s favourite animal, sits atop the second hand.
LIMITED EDITION EDITION LIMITEE
Baume & Mercier
Capeland Shelby Cobra, the spirit of motorsports Following the success of its first limited editions of the Capeland Shelby Cobra, Baume & Mercier has decided to repeat the experience and is offering a chronograph duo this time limited to 1963 units.
C
CARROLL SHELBY, LEGEND OF AMERICAN AUTOMOBILE INDUSTRY AND ITS TWO MAJOR WORKS: AT THE FOREFRONT THE MUSTANG GT350 AND, AC COBRA (1966).
arroll Shelby, an American icon A native of Texas, USA, Carroll Shelby (1923-2012) is a legend of the American car industry. He became attracted to racing at a very young age when he attended the tracks in Dallas with his father. Before becoming a renowned automotive designer, he was one of the most revered drivers in America in the 1950s, when most notably he won the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1959 behind the wheel of an Aston Martin. Forced to end his racing career for medical reasons, he gave himself a challenge: to build a road vehicle and race car able to match up to and dominate Ferrari on the race track. In 1962, the legendary Shelby Cobra 260 was born, a vehicle comprised of a small British AC roadster body equipped with a Ford 289 horsepower V8 engine.
in the 12 Hours of Sebring (Florida, USA) in 1963, he built the Cobra CSX2128, the 289 roadster. Painted with the number 15, it was this car that paved the way to glory with its podium placement. And it won many victories
Not just any Cobra… The year 1963 was a very significant one for Carroll Shelby, who had become a driving instructor and car manufacturer. To participate
until 1965. It is this Cobra, the most successful in history, which inspired the second limited edition Capeland Shelby Cobra chronograph collection.
Before becoming a renowned manufacturer, Carroll Shelby was one of the most revered American drivers in the 1950s.
Capeland Shelby Cobra 1963 & Capeland Shelby Cobra 1963 “Competition” For this new series of chronographs released in a limited edition of 1963 pieces each (unveiled earlier this year at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie), Baume & Mercier have abandoned the blue dial on the Capeland Shelby Cobra from 2015 in favour of a black dial. The same occurred which the colour red, which was replaced with an orangish yellow found on the chronograph hands, the tachymeter index and the lining of the black alligator strap on the Capeland Shelby Cobra 1963. Nonetheless, Baume & Mercier have retained the primary features of the previous models, namely: a 44 mm case, a diameter suited to a racing watch; a quality automatic movement, which this year was replaced with an ETA 7753; and hands coated in Super-LumiNova. The model also features a cobra, Carroll Shelby’s dearest emblem, on the counterweight of the chronograph hand. The second model, known as the Competition, is mainly distinguished by its steel case coated in ADLC and its black rubber bracelet.
77 LIMITED EDITION
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Capeland Shelby Cobra “Legendary Drivers Edition” This chronograph duo is complemented by a series of four timepieces, the Capeland Shelby Cobra Legendary Drivers Edition, available in a limited edition of 15 units each, commemorating the drivers that have made race car driving history behind the wheel of their Cobra CSX2128: Dan Gurney, Ken Miles, Dave MacDonald and Allen Grant.
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Sublime landscape of Isla Bartolomé.
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How to get there First step: get to Quito, the capital of Ecuador (allow for about 15 hours of flying time with stopovers from Europe). Second step: fly to the islands of Santa Cruz or San Cristóbal from Quito or from Guayaquil (approximately two hours). Several airlines serve the islands. Finally, once there, you can reach other islands with small planes or boats. In addition, cruises offer flexible stays in order to visit some or all of the islands.
”
TRAVEL
THE Galรกpagos,
an extremely colourful archipelago Located in the Pacific Ocean about 1,000 kilometres west of the coast of Ecuador, the volcanic archipelago of the Galรกpagos is comprised of 19 islands, around 40 islets and thousands of reefs.
81 TRAVEL
The isla de Santa Cruz where the vegetation is composed of giant cacti.
A
short history of the archipelago Because of the lack of archaeological remains from ancient civilisations, it appears that the Galápagos Islands were never inhabited. The archipelago was officially discovered in 1535 by Fray Tomás de Berlanga, who had been sent by King Charles of Spain. Until the late 17th century, the Galápagos were used as a source of fresh water and food for passing boats (including pirates!). In 1892, the islands became the property of Ecuador and received their official name (which is still used today), the Archipiélago de Colón. Some of the islands were transformed into national parks in 1934, and in 1959, the entire archipelago was declared a national park. The Charles Darwin Foundation was created in Brussels, Belgium at the same time to raise funds to preserve the biodiversity of the Galápagos Islands. In 1978, the islands
were the first site to be included on the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
The Galápagos islands inspired the famous Charles Darwin’s Theory Of Evolution after a stay in 1835. Exceptional geology The Galápagos Islands formed around five million years ago. It is one of the world’s “hotspots”, that is to say, it is a place with regular volcanic activity. In fact, the archipelago
is located on a very complicated tectonic setting, with its islands having been formed from volcanoes that emerged from the bottom of the ocean: the magma trapped beneath the seabed eventually rises up and pierces the earth’s crust, forming a volcano that later is transformed into an island millions of years later. As a result, not all of the islands have the same age. The most recently formed islands are located to the west because of the migration of the Nazca plate to the east at a rate of five centimetres per year. San Cristóbal, the most easterly island, is hence the oldest island. A one-of-a-kind living museum The Galápagos archipelago is a veritable research lab because of its fauna and flora which have evolved independently. The most well-known animals on the islands are the endemic animals: the giant tortoise, which can weigh up to 250 kilograms and live over 100 years, and the marine iguana, which is around
Galápagos red crab. pink flamingo.
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When to go There are two seasons on the archipelago: the dry season, from late may to late December, with a temperature ranging from 20 to 26 degrees, and the hot season, from november to may, with frequent rain and higher temperatures.
Blue-footed booby. Galápagos marine iguana.
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1.20 metres long. There are also nearly 60 species of birds on the Galápagos, including approximately 30 native species, such as the albatross, the penguin and three species of boobies. Under the water, there are no fewer than 300 species of fish in the marine reserve of the archipelago, not to mention the mammals (sea lions, dolphins, whales, etc.). Twelve species of sharks also live under the water of the archipelago, including the hammerhead shark, the tiger shark and the horn shark. Lastly, the Galápagos are populated by approximately 1,600 different species of insects, including 650 species of shellfish and molluscs and 120 species of crab, among which is the famous red rock crab of the Galápagos. Not to be missed All of the islands of the archipelago are very different, both in terms of their landscapes and in terms of the animals living on them. Among the best islands to visit, to name just a few,
are Bartolomé Island (for its stunning lunar landscapes), Española Island (to observe the colonies of seabirds, including the blue-footed
THe ARcHipeLAGO, FORmeD AROuND Five miLLiON YeARS AGO, iS ONe OF THe WORLD’S “HOTSpOTS”: iT iS A pLAce WiTH ReGuLAR vOLcANic AcTiviTY.
Cristóbal Island (for its lava lizards and wild tortoises), and finally Santa Fé Island (for the sea lions basking on it). The village of puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island, the most populated of the archipelago and inevitably the busiest, is also an obligatory stop with a visit to the Darwin Interpretation Centre and the beach at Tortuga Bay where tortoises lay their eggs. It is also the primary location of agencies, hostels and hotels Finally, for sports lovers out there, mountain biking and scuba diving will be on the agenda. mountain bikes can be rented by the hour or the day on the archipelago and are a great way to visit the islands. Fins, mask and snorkel (and oxygen tank for the most adventurous) will be needed to visit the underwater landscape of the Galápagos, offering the possibility of unexpected encounters!
boobies), Isabela Island (for its six impressive volcanoes), South plaza Island (for its giant cacti and its red groundcover vegetation), San 83TRAVEL
1 in what year was the earth divided into 24 time zones? a. 1884 b. 1886 c. 1888
4 What is a complication? a. A watch that does not display the time in a traditional way b. An incidence in the watch movement c. A function other than displaying the hour, minutes and seconds
7 in which month is Baselworld, the world’s largest watch show, held? a. January b. February c. march
10 in what year was Baume & mercier created? a. 1830 b. 1840 c. 1850
13 in what year was the poinçon de Genève created? a. 1886 b. 1887 c. 1888
2 A diving watch must be watertight to more than…? a. 100 metres b. 200 metres c. 300 metres
3 What is “the” Rolex of James Bond? a. Cellini b. Daytona c. Submariner
5 in what year did the first quartz watch appear? a. 1917 b. 1927 c. 1937
6 in what year was the Apple Watch connected watch unveiled? a. 2013 b. 2014 c. 2015
8 For which brand is former tennis player André Agassi the ambassador? a. Baume & mercier b. Longines c. Tudor
11 What does the balance wheel do? a. periodically distribute energy b. Regulate the movement c. Compensate for errors of rate caused by the Earth’s gravity
14 What part of a watch is on the Breguet logo? a. A dial b. A pair of hands c. A wheel
9 Which of these brands is not part of the Richemont group? a. Breguet b. Cartier c. panerai
12 in 1916, panerai filed the Radiomir patent. What is it? a. A chronograph with two counters b. A radium-based powder c. A tritium-based luminescent substance
15 in 1904, Louis cartier granted the wish of his friend, to tell the time while flying. Who is it? a. Clément Agnès Ader b. Alberto Santos-Dumont c. Otto Lilienthal
85GENERAL KNOWLEDGE 1. a. In 1884, at the International Meridian Conference in Washington, DC, in the United States. 2. a. 100 metres. 3. c. Sean Connery wore a Rolex Submariner 1953 without date in Dr. No (1962). 4. c. A function other than displaying the hour, minutes and seconds. 5. b. The first quartz watch was developed in 1927 by Warren Marrison. 6. b. The Apple Watch was unveiled on 9 September 2014 at the traditional press conference to launch a new iPhone. 7. c. March. 8. b. André Agassi has been the Longines ambassador since 2007. 9. a. Breguet is part of the Swiss watch group Swatch Group. 10. a. The history of Baume & Mercier began in 1830 with the founding of a company by brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume.11. b. The balance wheel regulates the advancement of the movement by oscillating at a specific rate. 12. b. A radium-based powder. 13. a. The Poinçon de Genève was introduced by the Republic and Canton of Geneva in 1886. 14. b. A pair of hands. 15. b. The famous Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont.
Here is a series of questions to test your watchmaking knowledge. The watch industry, the history of major manufacturers, the mechanics of timepieces, iconic models… Are you really an expert?
watch culture!
Test your GENERAL KNOWLEDGE
Ring in white gold 18ct, handmade, set with a Ceylon sapphire, quality non-heated, of 3.07ct, with Certificate.
Kortedagsteeg 37-39 · 9000 Gent (Belgium) · (+32) 9 223 95 72 info@bouverne.eu · www.bouverne.be editing and exclusive advertising: ÉGÉRIE mAGAZInE Casanova, 55-57, 08011 Barcelona Tel: (+34) 93 323 89 29 General manager: Carlos Dominguez-Vega · General manager madrid: Victoria Dadín editor-in-chief: Charlène Campos · Assistant editor: Alexa Ferroni Art, Design and Layout manager: Lidia matilla Beltrán
On the cover: earrings, rings and pendant by Bouverne Exclusive collection, and Rolex Oyster perpetual Datejust 31. All rights reserved. Total or partial reproduction is prohibited without the written authorisation of the editor, who does not necessarily agree with the style, language and opinions of the published authors. The prices stated in the articles may change. The editors are not responsible for possible errors in the information published.
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Magazine 1
Bouverne Exclusive
collection The Monsieur de Chanel Rolex Oyster
90 years of watertightness The Galápagos Islands