Elite Lifestyle Magazine: Issue 58 by 《時尚精英》: Premier Chinese Luxury Magazine

E L I TE 時尚精英

美國文化歐洲旅遊秋日美妝藝文賞析 A Touch of Autumn Hues 精選秋色居家佈置 SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER 2022

Fall Harvest in a Pie 美國人的餡餅情緣

Landscapes of the Sublime 西方風景名作下的反思

Dream House Renovation

Fall

西班牙殖民式建築改造案

A Reminder of Past Glories

ISSUE 58

優雅秋日心法

September-October 2022 $6.99

目錄 CONTENTS 6

Editor’s Pick: Harmonizing Shades

Fall Fashion A Reminder of Past Glories

編輯精選：拂曉與夜色

時尚特輯：優雅秋日心法

Fabulous Beauty Picks for Fall

Gems You Shouldn't Miss in Farmers Markets

Fall Harvest in a Pie

秋季美妝佳品

秋日廚房的美味密碼

「派」對時光——美國人的餡餅情緣

Recipe: Ken Haedrich's Cheddar-Crusted Apple Pie

Undeterred by Tragedy Two entrepreneurs find fulfillment after a life-changing accident

食譜：切達芝心蘋果派

在悲劇降臨之後一對年輕創業家的選擇

Art: Landscapes of the Sublime

Home Editor’s Pick

浪漫之用西方風景名作下的反思

家居編輯精選

A Touch of Autumn Hues 寒露點秋色

改造夢想之家：西班牙殖民式特色老宅重拾往日光華

54 ON THE COVER

Photographer: Adi Wang Stylist: Ana Tess Stylist Assistant: Daniela Schulthais Makeup and Hair Stylist: Wendy Lin Model: Chi Kuynh Full Look by Rentrayage Boots by Gianvito Rossi Earrings, Necklace and Ring by De Beers Location: courtesy of 111 West 57th Street, New York

Dream House Renovation Restoring a Spanish colonial treasure to its former grandeur

Why We Learn to Write The importance of the written word and its impact on society 為何要學寫作？淺談書寫之必要與社會影響

A Storybook City: Finding the Best of Prague 童話之都尋布拉格之最

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序 EDITOR’S NOTE 秋思

在冰封大地之前，秋收有如天之贈禮，美味豐富的食材，色彩斑斕的美景，使人們讚歎秋季。在這蘋果豐收的季節，蘋果派在餐桌上大放異彩。烤得香甜的派餅出爐，一家人共享，幸福洋溢。本期收錄蘋果派專題，分享從經典蘋果派到各色各樣的派料理，這項季節美食儼然成為一道文化風景，又何以成就美國經典？浪漫秋日景致，令人浮想聯翩，不妨藉此一探在西方浪漫主義思潮下，美國著名風景畫家試圖於其的作品傳遞的訊息。經典之作不僅勾勒大自然無以言表的偉岸與壯麗，從畫面構圖到細微末節，都蘊藏著不同層面的哲思。今年秋季除了徜徉在山色裡賞楓，也適合遊歷於人文美景中。秋日浪漫，童話般的布拉格，也許是個好選擇。漫步廣場，越過河岸，老城的獨特氣息無與倫比。隨著各國解封，歐洲旅遊

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逐日盛行，趁今秋規劃一趟歐洲之旅吧！

PUBLISHER Dana Chang

EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR PROFILE EDITOR

Catherine Yang Astrid Wang

在 Bronx 感受新英格蘭風！

Annie Wu

FOOD EDITOR

Crystal Shi

ARTS EDITORS

Sharon Kilarski

在城中島您可享受：

Jennifer Schneider BEAUTY EDITOR EDITOR-AT-LARGE CONTRIBUTORS

划船、釣魚、騎馬、禮物店、古董

Ida Pink Tynan Beatty

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Jennifer Margulis

海灘、林間小道以及鄰近 2700 多

Rhonda Sciortino Jeff Perkin

英畝的公園，而其中最好的是

Cora Wang Neal Lorenzi Tim Johnson TRANSLATORS

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Holly Zhou Chungyi Chang Ling Lin Jenny Han

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EDITOR'S PICK

6 2 7

Harmonizing Shades 拂曉與夜色 Dark colors like midnight blue and caramel cafe paired with lighter tones such as beige and blush nude are trendy for fall. Try different combinations to brighten your chic look. 6│

1 SHEN YUN SHOP, DIVINE GRACE FINE JEWELRY PENDANT, LAPIS, $1,130, SHENYUNSHOP.COM | 2 LORO PIANA, TURATI HERRINGBONE CASHMERE SCARF, $1,175, MYTHERESA.COM | 3 CELINE ROBERT, KNITTED BERET HAT, $119, FARFETCH.COM | 4 ROSETTA GETTY, CHECKED JACQUARD-KNIT JACKET, $1,475, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 5 CITIZEN, BIANCA COLLECTION, ROSE-GOLD TONE STAINLESS-STEEL CASE, $350, CITIZENWATCH.COM | 6 ALAÏA, LE PAPA SMALL LEATHER SHOULDER BAG, $2,400, NET-A-PORTER.COM | 7 LORO PIANA, CASHMERE TURTLENECK DRESS. $3,775, MYTHERESA.COM

PHOTOS BY NET-A-PORTER, MYTHERESA, FARFETCH, CITIZEN AND SHEN YUN SHOP.

The Tang Leather Collection Elegance Inspired by a Golden Age

ShenYunShop.com

1.800.208.2384

ELITE FASHION

Fall

A Reminder of Past Glories 優雅秋日心法

Fashion is very important. It is life-enhancing and like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing well.” —Vivienne Westwood

Photographer: Adi Stylist: Ana Tess Stylist Assistant: Daniela Schulthais Makeup and Hair Stylist: Wendy Lin Model: Chi Kuynh Location: courtesy of 111 West 57th Street, New York

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DRESS BY MARKARIAN NECKLACE BY LE VIAN EARRINGS, RINGS, BRACELET BY HEARTS ON FIRE SHOES BY CH CAROLINA HERRERA

Ancient Greek aesthetics has always been an inspiration to the fashion industry. From Grace Kelly movies of the 1950s to recent runway fashions, Grecian-influenced garments have been evolving over the decades. The classy and chic goddess-like look will never go out of style. DRESS BY SACHIN & BABI SHOES BY GIANVITO ROSSI EARRINGS AND RINGS BY DE BEERS

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The elegant long skirt is coming back. An A-line skirt that spreads gracefully from a fitted waist is a must-have this season. DRESS BY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SHOES BY CH CAROLINA HERRERA EARRINGS, NECKLACE AND BRACELET BY HEARTS ON FIRE

The predominance of casual attire—due to working from home—is finally coming to an end. Feminine elegance, as illustrated by skirts that accentuate curves, is likely to stand out in autumn and winter fashions. DRESS BY ADAM LIPPES SHOES BY GIANVITO ROSSI EARRINGS, RING AND BRACELET BY DE BEERS

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A fun way to incorporate the latest trends into your work wardrobe this season is to pair a bright, bold-colored silk dress with a fitted waist jacket. FULL LOOK BY RENTRAYAGE BOOTS BY GIANVITO ROSSI EARRINGS, NECKLACE AND RING BY DE BEERS

Many high-fashion brands and designers across the board have opted for a variety of floral prints and patterns for this fall and winter. DRESS BY CH CAROLINA HERRERA EARRINGS AND BRACELET BY DE BEERS RING BY HEARTS ON FIRE

14│

The colors we wear affect our mood. Wearing sparkling items will make you smile and feel positive. A metallic dress surely can wrap you in a happy aura and will inevitably stand out in a party scene. DRESS BY RENTRAYAGE EARRINGS AND RING BY POMELLATO SHOES BY CH CAROLINA HERRERA

ELITE BEAUTY

Fabulous Beauty Picks for Fall 秋季美妝佳品 By Ida Pink

A Dose of Vitamin C 來點C！ Fall is a great time to give some extra care to the skin with a dose of vitamin C to restore skin vitality and fight summer-induced sunspots and premature aging. Natura Bisse has an entire collection based on the antioxidant power of vitamin C. The collection is a perfect choice for improving vitality, luminosity, and reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation. The citrus aroma is fresh and invigorating. 秋天是一個適合給肌膚補充維生素C的季節，有助皮膚回復活性，並且對抗夏季引起的曬斑以及老化問題。 Natura Bisse推出一系列的維生素C產品，有效針對抗老。該系列為活化、提亮肌膚，以及減少肌膚表層色素沉澱問題。橙橘類的香氣格外清新，且振奮人心。

C+C Vitamin Splash ($62): This face mist hydrates, refreshes, and invigorates. C+C Vitamin 20% Antiox Solution ($190): This serum rejuvenates and reduces hyperpigmentation. C+C Vitamin Eye ($68): This eye gel cream is packed with invigorating ginseng and vitamin C. C+C Vitamin Cream ($138): This cream firms, revitalizes, and boosts luminosity. (naturabisse.com)

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Fall Secrets 擊退黯沉 Another fall favorite is Dr. Sebagh’s Supreme Night Secret (£195 for 50 mL). This nightly face and neck cream is perfect for anybody in need of a postsummer boost. It also helps prepare the skin for colder weather, as the cream is deeply regenerating and moisturizing. It also has a beautiful texture and leaves skin rejuvenated and glowing. *Tip: Mix with Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream (£225 for 5 x 1.95 g) to brighten dull skin.

Dr. Sebagh的這款極致肌密夜霜是秋日首選保養品，夜間使用的臉部及頸部晚霜，適合在夏季結束時進階護膚使用，同時也為越來越乾冷的冬日氣候做準備。霜類產品能深度修復及滋潤肌膚，質地優良的晚霜，使肌膚能夠吸收完整，重煥美麗光澤。 *小偏方：將此款晚霜與Dr. Sebagh 美白維生素C粉霜混合使用，可有效提亮黯沉肌膚。

(drsebagh.com)

Anti-Aging Boost 強化抗老 For a targeted anti-aging fall boost, the dermatologistsrecommended brand DefenAge is a good option. It was founded by a team of regenerative medicine experts whose patented age-repair technology really works. The age-repairing skincare collection visibly reduces wrinkles and dark spots and improves skin density. 如果您正在尋找強效抗老產品，那麼由皮膚專科醫師一致推薦的DefenAge，或許是個不錯的選擇。該品牌的開發團隊是由一群再生醫學專家聯合打造，其手下擁有老化修復技術專利，有許多效果顯著的臨床案例。其抗老系列產品，使用後，皺紋、暗斑減少，且促進肌膚緊緻等效果易見。

8-in-1 BioSerum ($75–$264): Super concentrated, fast-acting anti-aging serum. 24/7 Barrier Balance Anti-Aging Cream ($127): Intensely hydrating anti-aging cream. 3D Eye Radiance Cream ($127): A radiance-promoting anti-aging eye cream. 6-Week Perfection Neck Tightening Cream ($127): A fast-acting, anti-aging neck cream. (defenage.com)

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Calming Gems 舒緩珍選 If your skin is sensitive or stressed, then Meadow & Bark’s might be the perfect fit. Using only pure, natural ingredients to protect and nourish the skin, Meadow and Bark’s nontoxic anti-aging skincare products are very calming and soothing. 如果您為敏感肌或因為各式因素導致壓力肌，那麼不妨來了解一下這款天然護膚產品。它們標榜僅在產品中使用天然原料，用以保護及滋養肌膚，其中無毒的抗老系列產品，能鎮靜、舒緩肌膚。

Moroccan Bleu Moisture Boost ($48–$105): This calming beauty balm moisturizes and soothes irritated and dry skin. Adaptogen C Pressed Serum ($88): This C-vitamin serum balances, brightens, and moisturizes stressed skin. Adaptogen Blue Recover Serum ($88): This calming and restorative serum leaves skin smooth with a youthful glow. (meadowandbark.com)

Healthy Skin Treats 健康補給 For those especially paying attention to the active ingredients, you probably won’t want to miss this brand. Mad Hippie goes to great lengths to ensure that only cutting-edge actives and clean, safe ingredients are used. The entire product line is packed with antioxidants and anti-aging ingredients and is free of unhealthy and unsafe ingredients. The featured products are perfect for managing postsummer sun spots and skin dryness. 天然護膚品的愛好者，Mad Hippie是另一個值得您一探究竟的品牌，其護膚產品通過嚴格的研發期，確保所有有效成分皆純淨、安全，其採用抗氧以及抗老成分，皆無添加任何有害健康的原料，其特色產品，特別適合針對夏日曬斑以及乾肌問題。

Vitamin C Serum ($33.99): Helps decrease the appearance of fine lines and discoloration. Triple C Night Cream ($32.99): Brightens and reduces discoloration while providing antioxidant protection. Antioxidant Facial Oil ($24.99): Hydrates, nourishes, and protects the skin. (madhippie.com)

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The Super Berry 抗老仙果 The sea buckthorn berry has long been famous for its anti-aging, nutrient-dense, and healing properties. This remarkable little berry survives 12,000 feet above sea level in the Himalaya mountains in temperatures down to minus 40 degrees F. Its endless array of powerful nutrients is the secret to its survival. This is why Swell Skin, an affordable natural skincare brand, also caught our attention this fall as the entire line is powered by the 1,000-year-old heritage of the sea buckthorn berry. 沙棘果（sea buckthorn berry）是世界著名的抗衰老原料，在美國俗稱「生命能源」，養分高，且具治療功效。這小果實可存活於1萬2,000英尺高的喜馬拉雅山高海拔地區，抵禦華氏零下40度的低溫。而其中的營養素，正是其能於極端氣候生存的關鍵，早在千年前就被先民提煉所用。品牌 Swell Skin以此沙棘果為原料，打造一系列的平價護膚品，不妨在這個秋季試試此類護膚品，體驗這在古時就被稱頌的天然抗老原料。

Bare Face Facial Radiance Bar ($17): Gently cleanses and refines, leaving skin smooth and moisturized. Everything Hyaluronic Acid Firming Serum ($26): Replenishes, restores, and revitalizes skin, leaving it smooth and glowing. Tight & Toned Radiant Pore Exfoliating Toner ($17): Exfoliates, brightens, hydrates, and balances the skin while improving uneven tone. (swellskin.net)

Shining Hair 亮彩秀髮 Fall is the season when people start to wear their hair down again, and shining hair makes you look beautiful and more confident. Based on a unique blend of scientific ingredients and plant and flower extracts, RainCry’s pH-balanced hair system gives that beautiful hair-shine wow factor. Polishing Wash ($36) contains Activated Charcoal to help remove pollution, hard water, and product buildup, which can cause hair to look lifeless and dull. Radiance Rinse ($39) strengthens the hair with Keratin Amino Acids to reduce split ends and breakage. 轉涼的秋日，大家都開始放下夏日盤起的長髮，一頭亮麗的秀髮，讓人看起來更加美麗、有自信！ RainCry以特殊配方打造的植粹洗髮品，以酸鹼平衡維護秀髮光澤，其中一款名為Polishing Wash的潔髮乳，以黑炭配方除去秀髮汙垢，以及硬水涵蓋的礦物質，這些都是使秀髮失去光澤的元凶。另一款Radiance Rinse潤髮乳，則是添加角質胺基酸，減少毛髮末梢分岔以及受損問題。

(raincry.com)

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ELITE FOOD

COOKING WITH FALL’S BOUNTY Gems you shouldn't miss in farmers markets

秋日廚房的美味密碼 By Jennifer McGruther

utumn is the perfect time for visiting your neighborhood farmers market. You're sure to find baskets brimming with sweet apples, plump cabbages, and luscious winter squash. It's the most bountiful season as the harvest reaches its peak, and farmers work in a frenzy to gather the abundance before the weather cools, and fields lay dormant for winter. Fill your baskets with some of these fall favorites for a season of delicious, nourishing meals. 秋天最適合去趟自家附近的農夫市集了，在那裡，你肯定會看見一籃籃充滿香氣的蘋果、渾圓飽滿的甘藍和香甜多汁的南瓜。秋天是作物收成最多的季節，農夫們勤懇地工作著，忙著在天氣變冷，農地進入冬季休耕前，採收大量的蔬果。採購些秋季最棒的蔬果，在這個季節煮頓營養又美味的料理吧！

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Cabbage There's nothing fancy about cabbage, but it's one of the thriftiest finds at your grocery store or farmers market. It's also a nutritional powerhouse, as a good source of vitamins B6, C, and K as well as the minerals potassium and manganese. Researchers are especially interested in the sulfur-containing compound sinigrin found in cabbage, which has anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer properties. When you buy cabbage, look for firm heads with glossy leaves. They store well in the fridge, and even if the outer leaves fade or wilt, you can discard them, and the cabbage's heart will often still remain fresh. Shred cabbage for simple salads and slaws, or cut it into wedges for roasting or braising.

甘藍甘藍雖然普通，但它是農夫市集或超市裡最划算的食材之一，而且甘藍有滿滿的營養，它富含維生素B6、C和K，也含有礦物質鉀和錳。研究人員則對甘藍裡的有機硫化物特別感興趣，該成分具有抗發炎和抗癌的特性。購買時要選擇結球紮實，葉面平滑有光澤的甘藍。把它們放在冰箱就能保存的很好，即使外面的葉子枯萎， THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES.

去掉外層，中心的甘藍通常仍是新鮮的。可將甘藍切絲做成簡單的沙拉和涼拌甘藍菜絲，或切成楔型拿去烤或做燉煮料理。

Apples Like many fruits, apples are rich in polyphenols, phytonutrients that support gut health and combat free radicals. Apples are also a good source of fiber and contain vitamin C. While you may see only three or four types of apples at your local grocery store, there are over 7,500 varieties in the world. About 2,500 varieties are grown in the United States. You might find many rarer heirloom varieties at your local farmers market in the fall. Each has a unique flavor profile, with some, such as the Gravenstein, better suited to cooking than eating fresh. Tell your grower how you're planning to use the apples, and they're sure to give you guidance on which variety to choose.

蘋果如同許多種水果，蘋果有豐富的多酚、植物營養素，這些物質能維持腸道健康，幫助身體對抗自由基，蘋果也富含纖維和維生素C。雖然在當地超市可能只有三、四種蘋果，世上蘋果卻有超過 7,500 多個品種，而在美國種植的品種約有 2,500 個。秋天時，你可能可以在當地的農夫市集見到很多珍貴的祖傳品種，每種蘋果都有它獨特的風味，有的種類經過烹調會比新鮮食用更加合適，例如格拉芬斯坦蘋果（Gravenstein）。購買時，不妨跟老闆說說你打算如何料理這些蘋果，他們一定能給您最適合的建議。

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Winter Squash

Chicories Chicories are a family of leafy vegetables that includes escarole, radicchio, and endives. Related to daisies, these vegetables are known for their slightly bitter flavor. Chicories love cool weather, and you'll find them available in both autumn and early spring. Like many leafy vegetables, chicories tend to be high in fiber as well as rich in vitamins. They are an excellent source of vitamin K, which may support brain health as you age, and contain folate, which promotes healthy cell growth and reduces the risk of certain birth defects. Acid brings balance to their natural bitterness, so tossing them into a salad with a squeeze of lemon or sharp vinaigrette works well. Some varieties, such as radicchio, stand up well to grilling or roasting.

Whether it's delicata, butternut, kabocha, or pumpkin, the varieties of winter squash are nearly endless. These sweet, orange-fleshed vegetables are rich in complex carbohydrates, fiber, potassium, and vitamins C and E. In addition, they contain concentrated amounts of carotenoids, an antioxidant pigment that gives them their vivid orange color. These compounds are a precursor to vitamin A, which bolsters the body's ability to fight off illness while also supporting eye health. Remember that these micronutrients are fat-soluble, so serve winter squash with plenty of butter, olive oil, or coconut oil to best absorb those antioxidants. Winter squashes store for months at cool room temperatures, and you can help preserve them further by rubbing their skin with a bit of olive oil before storing them. Roasting is the easiest way to prepare winter squash, but you can also peel and cube it before adding to soups or sautés.

南瓜在秋冬收成期的南瓜品種多得數不勝數，如斑紋南瓜、奶油南瓜、栗子南瓜，或是橘色外皮的大南瓜。這些有著橘色果肉的香甜蔬菜，富含複合型碳水化合物、纖維、鉀、維生素C和E。此外，南瓜還含有大量的類胡蘿蔔素（Carotenoid），而此抗氧化的色素使其果肉呈亮橘。類胡蘿蔔素是維生素A的前驅物，維生素A可以改善身體對抗疾病的能力，也能維持眼睛健康。記住，這些是脂溶性的微量營養素，所以吃南瓜時搭配奶油、橄欖油或是椰子油，能讓身體最有效地吸收這些抗氧化營養素。南瓜在涼爽的室溫下可以存放數月，儲藏前在南瓜外皮抹上一點橄欖油，可以保存得更久。料理南瓜最簡單的方式是用烤箱烤，也可以去皮切丁加入湯裡，或是用

菊苣菊苣是一種葉菜類，種類包含苦苣、闊葉苦苣和紅菊苣。菊苣和雛菊一樣屬於菊科，這幾樣蔬菜因稍帶有苦味而聞名。菊苣喜歡涼爽的天氣，在秋天或早春時盛產。就像很多葉菜類一樣，菊苣類蔬菜通常含有高纖維和豐富的維生素。它們是維生素 K 極佳的來源，維生素 K 尤益於年長者，能維護腦部的健康。菊苣也含有葉酸，可以促進健康的細胞生長和降低胎兒出現先天缺陷的風險。酸味能調和菊苣的苦味，所以將菊苣加進沙拉時，可以佐以檸檬汁或是用油醋醬調味。此外，紅菊苣，則適合用燒烤或燜烤的料理方式。 22│

鍋子煎炒。

ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF SHUTTERSTOCK AND FREEPIK.

Onions It's easy to overlook the onion, but the ubiquitous allium is a nutritional powerhouse in its own right. Onions are rich in quercetin, an anti-inflammatory plant compound that fights free radicals. All onions contain quercetin and similar compounds, but red and yellow onions seem to be the richest source. While you can find onions in your grocery store any time of the year, their harvest begins in late summer and stretches through autumn. Most onions are cured in dry, cool warehouses. The curing process removes moisture from their outer layers, producing onion's characteristic papery skin and preserving them for long-term storage. During the harvest season, you can find fresh onions at your local farmers market. Unlike cured onions, they have a crisp, juicy quality reminiscent of apples, and a distinct sweetness. You can use them exactly as you would the cured onions you find in grocery stores. Sauté them with a bit of olive oil, or simmer with broth and vegetables for soup. You can also brush them with olive oil, sprinkle them with sea salt and fresh thyme, and toss them on the grill, where the heat will turn them deliciously sweet.

洋蔥在市集上，很容易忽略了洋蔥，但是這個隨處可見的蔥屬植物，本身就蘊含了豐富的營養。洋蔥富含槲皮素，這是一種抗發炎的植物化合物，可以幫助身體對抗自由基。每種洋蔥都含有槲皮素和相似的化合物，但紫洋蔥或是黃洋蔥似乎是含量最多的種類。雖然一年四季在超市都可以買到洋蔥，而洋蔥的收穫期，是從夏末開始至整個秋天。大部分的洋蔥採收後，要在乾燥涼爽的倉庫中進行癒傷處理，處理過程會使外層乾燥，形成洋蔥特有的薄外皮，讓洋蔥能夠長時間的儲存。豐收期間，在當地的農夫市集可以買到新鮮的洋蔥。與經癒傷處理過的洋蔥不同。新鮮洋蔥像蘋果般爽脆多汁，且帶有明顯的甜味。而新鮮洋蔥的料理方式，就和超市買的洋蔥完全一樣，你可以加點橄欖油煎炒，或加蔬菜與高湯一起慢燉成一道湯，也可以刷上橄欖油，撒點海鹽和新鮮的百里香，擺上烤架去烤，火烤的熱度會把洋蔥烤得更加香甜味美。

Jennifer McGruther, NTP, is a nutritional therapy practitioner, herbalist, and the author of three cookbooks, including Vibrant Botanicals. She's also the creator of NourishedKitchen.com, a website that celebrates traditional foodways, herbal remedies, and fermentation. She teaches workshops on natural foods and herbalism, and currently lives in the Pacific Northwest.

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ELITE FOOD

FALL HARVEST IN A PIE 「派」對時光 ——美國人的餡餅情緣 By Annie Wu Photography by Lux Aeterna Studio

Pie is a reflection of the American penchant for self-expression.

s American as apple pie. It’s an expression commonly used to describe something that encapsulates the American character. But surprisingly, the kinds of apples we commonly see in our markets and grocery stores are not actually indigenous to the United States. The crab apple is the only species in the genus Malus that is native to North America; English settlers brought cultivated apple seeds with them. According to the University of Illinois, the first apple trees were planted by pilgrims in the Massachusetts Bay Colony. Americans soon 24│

「像蘋果派一樣美國化」（As American as apple pie），這個說法用來表示一個人或事物極具美國特色。實際上，我們常見的蘋果，最先多來自美國之外，五爪蘋果（red delicious）可能是唯一的例外。根據伊利諾伊大學的說法，第一批蘋果樹是由麻薩諸塞灣殖民地的朝聖者種植的，但美國人很快就開始嫁接不同的栽培品種。今天，全美大約有 2,500 個品種的蘋果。最早的蘋果餡餅也不是現在的樣子，是長方形的，而且餅皮不可食用，因在製冷技術發明前，如此方便運輸和保存。派（Pie）也稱美式餡餅。1796 年出版的《美國烹飪》（American Cookery）一書，作者為 Amelia Simmons，

started grafting different cultivars, and today, there are roughly 2,500 varieties grown in the country. Meanwhile, the earliest forms of pie were oblong— meant to transport food easily and preserve food for longer periods in the age before refrigeration. The crust was often inedible. The first truly American apple pie recipe appeared in American Cookery, by Amelia Simmons, published in 1796. The cookbook is considered to be the first to use ingredients and cooking techniques distinct from the English tradition. True to American taste, the recipe called for cinnamon and mace—the outer covering of nutmeg—as spices.

書中第一次正式記載了美國蘋果派食譜，將肉桂和肉荳蔻的外皮作為香料，忠實於美國人的口味，而不同於英國傳統的原料和烹飪技術。派裡的美國精神為什麼蘋果派會成為美國的標誌性甜點，成為美式風格的象徵？ Ken Haedrich自稱「餡餅傳教士」，寫了數本餡餅食譜，包括最近的《派學院》（Pie Academy），還在網上經營了一個論壇，專門解決來自各方製作餡餅時，遇上的疑難雜症。他認為，餡餅的多樣性反映了美國人對自我表達的熱愛。「我們都有牛仔精神，喜歡做我們自己的事情，蘋果派與這個特點很相稱。你可以使用任何品種的蘋果、任

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENE MAGAZINE.

何類型的甜味劑、任何類型的增稠劑。」Haedrich 說，

THE ICONIC AMERICAN PIE Why did the apple pie become America’s signature dessert and a symbol of Americana? Ken Haedrich, author of several pie cookbooks, including the most recent Pie Academy, believes the versatility of the pie is a reflection of America’s love for self-expression. “We’re all cowboys, you know. We like to do our own thing. And an apple pie is great for that. You can use virtually any type of apple that you want, any type of sweetening, any type of thickener. You can put a top crust or no crust, you can put a crumb topping,” said Haedrich, who describes himself as a “pie apostle” and runs an online forum devoted to helping bakers with pie-related quandaries. “I think this is one of the things that has made apple pie the quintessential American pie—the fact that we can shape it into anything we want it to be.” Pie is not only an expression of individual personality, but also of America’s different regional attributes. In parts of New England where there is a lot of dairy production, a tradition emerged to place a slice of cheddar cheese on top of apple pie. “You start to get this conf luence of regional ingredients with apples, and you’re going to find that in every part of the country. They will have their own sort of variations of apple pies based on what else grows there or the area is known for,” Haedrich said.

「我想這是蘋果派成為典型美國餡餅的原因之一——我們能以任何自己想要的方式來塑造它。」餡餅不僅體現個人性格，也展現了美國不同地區特性。在新英格蘭出產乳製品的地區有個傳統，在蘋果派上面放一片切達奶酪。新英格蘭另外有些地區，則在蘋果派裡以楓糖漿增加甜度。而阿米什人（Amish）居住的地方，如賓夕法尼亞州、俄亥俄州和中西部地區，由於其奶牛畜牧業發達，蘋果蛋奶羹派（apple custard pies）便很常見。「你可以看到地區性的特產，被用於蘋果派中，在美國各地區都能發現此現象。而這些特色，基於該地盛產什麼，或以什麼而聞名。」Haedrich 說。四方自成一派除了蘋果，豐收季節裡，其他種類的果實，也可以餡餅方式呈現。在南方，山核桃派是秋季最具代表性的甜點，因為正是山核桃的豐收期。在西北太平洋地區，位於愛達荷州的一家烘焙店 Piedaho Bakery，老闆 Rebecca Bloom 使用小紅莓，當地的喬納森和喬納金蘋果，以及百里香做為派餡。烘焙師 Bloom 還喜歡使用生長於當地的野生蔓越莓「huckleberries」，但她仍未尋得足以大量製作派餡的分量，希望有朝一日能有一座取之不盡的紅莓果園。而在印第安納州，胡塞爾人（Hoosier）的奶油糖餡餅，其原料僅僅包括奶油、糖、麵粉和香料，該食譜的誕生，源於缺乏雞蛋和新鮮食材的蕭條時期。食譜作者兼中西部飲食傳統節目《吃出你的心田》的主持人 Capri Cafaro 表示，在中西部地區，由於一波又一波的移民湧入此地定居，也引入了他們各自的烹飪傳統，其

REGIONAL TRADITIONS Some in New England use maple syrup as a sweetener, while in parts of the country with large Amish communities, such as Pennsylvania, Ohio, and other parts of the Midwest, apple custard pies are common due to their dairy farming.

他類型的餡餅也開始流行。在密西根州的上半島地區，手拿式餡餅占據了主導地位，通常為鹹味，該特色可以追溯至 19 世紀中期，來自英國康沃爾（Cornwall）的移民，來此從事採礦工作。但 Cafaro 認為，直到 19 世紀感恩節成為新英格蘭的一個地區性節日，蛋奶凍香的美味南瓜派始成為秋 │25

But there are other fruits of the harvest represented through pie. In the South, pecan pie is the ultimate fall dessert, as the nuts are harvested during that season. In the Pacific Northwest, Rebecca Bloom, founder of the Piedaho Bakery based in Hailey, Idaho, throws in cranberries with local Jonathan and Jonagold apples and thyme for a fall treat. The pie company also uses f lash-frozen berries from Washington in pies that are served throughout the fall and winter. Bloom loves the wild huckleberries that grow in Idaho, but she has yet to find a way to source them adequately to make pie—though she hopes that “one day, maybe we will find a treasure trove of them.” And in Indiana, the Hoosier sugar-cream pie— made simply of cream, sugar, f lour, and spices— emerged during lean times when eggs and fresh ingredients were not available, said Capri Cafaro, cookbook author and host of Eat Your Heartland Out, a podcast on Midwestern food traditions. Also in the Midwest, other types of pie became popular due to the waves of immigrants who settled in the region and introduced their culinary traditions, Cafaro said. In the Upper Peninsula region of Michigan, handheld pies called pasties reign supreme. They are typically savory and trace back to immigrants from Cornwall, England, who came for mining jobs during the mid-1800s. But the custardy, delicious pumpkin pie did not emerge as a classic fall dish until Thanksgiving became a regional holiday in New England during the 1800s, Cafaro said. Many abolitionists in New England featured pumpkin pie in their writings, and it became a symbol of the movement. After President Abraham Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863, pumpkin pie became a symbol of the fall bounty. There is also the wholly American tradition of making recipes developed by major food corporations to promote their products. One year, Cafaro won the third-place ribbon at the Ashtabula County Fair in Ohio for her peaches-and-cream pie—which incorporated gelatin. The recipe came from one published by the Jell-O manufacturer. During the mid-20th century, with the rise of industrial food, brands popularized many classic desserts, such as the icebox cake, made with Nabisco chocolate wafers, Cafaro said. 26│

Rebecca Bloom, owner of Piedaho, grew up baking pies for her grandfather, who loved pumpkin pie. _Courtesy of Piedaho

季的經典甜品。若從歷史脈絡看，由於新英格蘭的許多廢奴主義者，在其著作中提及南瓜派，南瓜派一度成為廢奴運動的象徵。 1863 年，當林肯總統宣布感恩節為國定假日後，南瓜派遂成秋季豐收的象徵。還有一個完全屬於美國的傳統，即大型食品公司開發食譜來推廣他們的產品。有一年，Cafaro 在俄亥俄州阿什塔布拉縣園遊會（Ashtabula County Fair）上用她的桃子奶霜（攪和明膠）口味的派贏得第三名。該食譜出版自 Jell-O 食品製造商。Cafaro 說，在 20 世紀中期，隨著工業化食品的興起，各品牌普及了許多經典甜點，如 Nabisco 巧克力威化餅乾製作的冰盒蛋糕。秋天裡的家庭記憶對許多人而言，每一道派都充滿了屬於家庭和童年的溫馨回憶。Haedrich與6個兄弟姐妹在新澤西州長大，對他來說，製作餡餅是一個珍貴的秋季家庭傳統。「爸爸、媽媽會把我們所有人塞在旅行車裡——我們有一輛伍迪老爺車——我們會到 Plainfield 周邊的山上。」他回憶道，一家人會買滿整筐的蘋果，然後回來一起做蘋果派。媽媽負責蘋果餡，爸爸則負責做餅皮。他認為這些珍貴的記憶，使其家人之間更加緊密，並且對蘋果派產生更加濃厚的情感。佛蒙特州的烘焙師 Julianna Butler 也認為，餡餅散發出一種「家的感覺」，是一種「讓你想起祖母」的懷舊美食。 2019 年秋天，巴特勒在當地農貿市場舉辦的蘋果派烘焙比賽中，獲得第二名，該食譜融入了她在維吉尼亞州家鄉一家餡餅店工作的經驗。事實上，餡餅是 Butler 最喜歡的甜點。甚至在她的秋季婚禮上，她不使用典型的婚禮蛋糕上桌，而是發放來自維吉尼亞餡餅店的迷你南瓜、胡桃和蘋果派。而烘焙店 Piedaho 的老闆 Bloom 則說，她記得小時候曾烤過派，並在祖父生日

FALL MEMORIES For Haedrich, who grew up in New Jersey with six siblings, pie-making was a treasured fall family tradition. “Mom and Dad used to pile all of us in the station wagon. We had an old [woodie], and we’d go up into the hills around Plainfield,” he recalled. “They’d buy bushels, baskets full of apples, and they’d come back, and they would make their apple pies together.” Mom was in charge of the apple filling, while Dad was the crust maker. He believes these kinds of precious memories are “one of the things that strengthens our ties, our love of apple pie, and our love of pie, period.” Julianna Butler, a baker in Vermont, similarly feels that pie gives off a “homey feel”—a comfort food that “reminds you of your grandmother.” In fall 2019, Butler won second place in an apple pie baking contest held by a local farmers market. The winning recipe incorporated her experience working at a pie bakery in her hometown in Virginia. Pie is Butler’s favorite dessert. In fact, for her fall wedding, instead of serving a wedding cake, she gave out mini pumpkin, pecan, and apple pies from the Virginia bakery. Bloom, of Piedaho, said she recalls baking pies— especially her grandfather’s favorite, pumpkin pie—as a young child, and gifting them to him on birthdays. Her grandfather has passed away, but she still makes the same recipe—with a few of her own tweaks—to this day. Haedrich said many of the people who email him with pie-related queries mention how much they enjoy the tactile experience of making pie. “You get your hands into it, you get to smell all the lovely ingredients.” For those who are new to pie-making, he recommends that they just practice—and not worry too much about how it looks. “don’t be afraid of strutting your ugly pies. Everybody makes a lot of ugly pies when they first start out,” he said. He notes the most important thing is to enjoy the process. “Just immerse yourself in it totally. Just enjoy every aspect of it.”

時，做他最喜歡的南瓜派。如今祖父已經去世，但她仍沿用同樣餡餅的食譜——當然也添加一點自己的創意。許多人詢問 Haedrich 有關製作派的問題，他們都不約而同地表達，非常享受製作時的觸覺體驗。「你可以用手觸碰食材，還可以聞到所有食材的香味。」對於製作派的新手，Haedrich 建議他們只需練習，不要太擔心它的外觀。「不要害怕展示你那外形不漂亮的餡餅，每個人在開始的時候都會做出很多外型不討喜的餡餅，」他說，最重要的是要享受這個過程，「讓自己完全沉浸在其中，享受製作的每一個細節。」 │27

Ken Haedrich's Cheddar-Crusted Apple Pie Recipe New Englanders have known the pleasures of combining apple pie and Cheddar cheese for a very long time—long enough to be quite opinionated about how the two should be eaten together. Some cooks include grated Cheddar in the filling itself. Others grate the cheese over the top of the pie, which is fine when the

pie is warm but less so when it is cool and the cheese hardens. Old-timers lay a slab of Cheddar right on top of their pie slice and dig in. I wanted to integrate the cheese into the pie itself, so I baked grated cheese into the crust, which keeps the snappy Cheddar flavor front and center. This is one good pie.

FILLING Makes 8 servings DIRECTIONS INGREDIENTS 8 cups peeled, cored, and sliced Granny Smith or other apples 1/2 cup sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice 3/4 cup chopped walnut halves, preferably toasted 2 1/2 to 3 tablespoons all- purpose flour 1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon milk, for glaze

1. Prepare and refrigerate the pie dough. Roll the larger dough portion into a 12 1/2- to 13-inch circle and line a 9- to 9 1/2inch deep-dish pie pan with it, letting the overhang drape over the edge. Refrigerate the shell until needed. 2. Combine the apples, sugar, lemon juice, and walnuts in a large bowl. Mix well. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. 3. Adjust the oven racks so one is in the lower position, and another is in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. 4. Sprinkle the flour over the apples, using the larger amount of flour if the apples seem very juicy. Mix well. 5. Roll the other dough portion into an 11-inch circle. Turn the filling into the pie shell and smooth it over to level out the fruit. Lightly moisten the rim of the pie shell. Drape the top pastry over the filling, pressing along the edge to seal. Trim the overhang with scissors, leaving an even 1/2 to 3/4 inch all around. Then sculpt the edge into an upstanding ridge. Flute or crimp the edge, as desired. Poke several steam vents in the top of the pie with a large fork or paring knife. Put a couple of the vents near the edge so you can check the juices. Brush the pie lightly with the egg-wash glaze. 6. Put the pie on the prepared baking sheet and bake on the lower oven rack for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 F and move the pie up to the middle rack, rotating the pie 180 degrees. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes longer, until the pie is a rich, golden brown and juices bubble thickly up through the vents. 7. Transfer the pie to a rack and cool for about 1 hour before serving. Longer is fine, but you’ll bring out the flavor of the cheese if you serve this pie warmer than most.

28│

Ken Haedrich的切達芝心蘋果派配方新英格蘭人早就都知道，蘋果派和切達起司的搭配多麼美

起司變硬之後，口感就一言難盡了。老頑固們通常

妙，甚至到了兩者該怎麼吃，都有著異常的堅持。有些人

會在派上放一整片的切達才開吃，因為我想要把

會把磨碎的切達起司直接加進餡裡。有些則是磨在派的

起司融入整個派中，因此才設計了這個從派皮就

最表層，這個作法溫熱的吃是不錯，但是，一旦派冷了、

把切達揉進去的食譜，真的非常美味。

派餡八人份

EXCERPTED FROM PIE ACADEMY BY KEN HAEDRICH, PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMULSION STUDIO. USED WITH PERMISSION FROM STOREY PUBLISHING.

材料

作法 1. 先將派皮做好冷藏。將麵團取出成12.5~13英寸的圓形，置於

8 杯去皮、去芯、切片的翠玉青蘋

9~9.5英寸的深派盤上，讓多餘派皮在派盤外垂下，再放回冰箱

果，或者其他種類的蘋果。 1/2 杯糖

冷藏備用。

2 大匙檸檬汁 3/4杯切碎的核桃仁，烤過為佳。 2又1/2~3大匙中筋麵粉 1 顆打散的蛋，加上１大匙牛奶，供最後上色用。

2. 取一個大料理碗，加入蘋果、糖、檸檬汁和碎核桃仁後，充分拌勻，放置5~10分鐘。 3. 調整烤箱內層架，讓其中一個層架位於烤箱內靠下方的位置，另一個在中間位置。預熱烤箱至400°F（200°C），備好烤盤紙。 4. 把麵粉均勻撒在蘋果餡表面後拌勻。如果餡料很溼，可以再多加一些麵粉。 5. 將比較小的那一半麵團，成直徑11英寸大小的圓形。將餡料倒到派皮上，將餡料鋪平，餡料中的水果也盡量鋪平。將派皮的連接處稍微沾溼。把上層派皮盡量置中鋪上去，上下派皮壓好，周圍均勻垂下0.5~0.75英寸的邊緣，用剪刀剪去多餘的部分，然後把邊緣塑形做成波浪形。依照個人喜好，將派的邊緣用手捏出波浪形，或用叉子壓出花紋。最後，用刀和叉戳幾個透氣孔。記得特別在邊緣也戳幾個洞，可以用來觀察派餡的溼度。在派的表面刷上上色用的蛋汁。 6. 把派放在前面準備的烘焙紙上，在低層架上用400°F （200°C）烤30分鐘後，將溫度降至375°F（190°C），並將派移到中層架，前後平轉180度，續烤 30~40分鐘，直到派烤成較深的金黃色，透過邊緣的小洞看到派餡冒泡即可。 7. 將烤好的派放到冷卻架上冷卻，至少1小時後即可食用，再冷一點也行，不過，如果想在滿足味蕾的同時，也要享用起司香氣的話，還是溫熱一點的最好。

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Cheddar Cheese Pie Dough Every true New Englander knows that nothing goes better with apples than sharp Cheddar cheese. My favorite way of combining these two is by baking the cheese right in the crust. The baked-in Cheddar flavor

is out of this world, and it’s one of the prettiest crusts you’ll find, all golden and covered with crispy cheese freckles. I makes a great crust for savory pies, too, like quiches and pot pies.

DOUGH Makes one 9- to 9 1/2-inch standard or deep-dish double-crust pie crust or two pie shells DIRECTIONS INGREDIENTS 2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1/3 cup fine yellow cornmeal 2 teaspoons cornstarch 3/4 teaspoon salt 1 cup (2 sticks) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 1/4 cups cold grated sharp Cheddar cheese (white or yellow)* 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water *Alternative: Sharp and flavorful cheeses like Gouda or Gruyére work best.

1. Combine the flour, cornmeal, cornstarch, and salt in a large bowl. Scatter the butter around on a large flour-dusted plate. Measure the water into a 1-cup glass measuring cup. Refrigerate everything for 10 to 15 minutes. 2. Transfer the dry ingredients to a food processor. Pulse several times to mix. Scatter the butter over the dry mixture. Pulse the machine seven or eight times until the pieces of butter are roughly the size of small peas. Remove the lid and scatter the cheese over the mixture. Replace the lid. Pulse three or four times, just long enough to mix in the cheese thoroughly. 3. Pour the water through the feed tube in an 8- to 10-second stream, pulsing the machine as you add it. Stop pulsing when the mixture begins to form large clumps. 4. Turn the dough out onto your work surface and divide it in two, making one part (for the bottom crust) slightly larger than the other. Pack the dough into balls, place on separate sheets of plastic wrap, and flatten into 3/4-inch-thick disks. Wrap the disks and refrigerate for about 1 hour before rolling.

The cover of Pie Academy, written by Ken Haedrich. _Courtesy of Storey Publishing

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TO MAKE THIS DOUGH BY HAND Combine the chilled dry ingredients in a large bowl. Add the butter and cut it in thoroughly. Mix in the cheese by hand. Mound the ingredients in the center of the bowl. Drizzle half of the water down the sides of the bowl, rotating the bowl as you pour. Mix well with a fork. Sprinkle half of the remaining water over the mixture, and mix again. Pour most of the remaining water over the mixture. Mix vigorously until the dough gathers in large clumps. If there are dry, floury areas remaining, stir in the last spoonfuls of water. Turn the dough out onto your work surface and proceed as in step 4.

切達起司派皮

每一個純正新英格蘭人都知道，沒有什麼比熟成切達起司跟蘋果更搭了。我最喜歡的組合，就是直接把切達加在派皮裡烤。這種作法的派皮嘗起來簡直絕了！而且做出來的派皮最美，整個呈現金黃色，且布滿起司塊。這種派皮也非常適合做鹹派或肉派。

派皮可製作一個9~9.5英寸標準派皮，或深盤雙層派皮，或兩個派皮

作法材料 1. 取一個大料理碗，混合麵粉、玉米麵粉、玉米粉跟鹽。將切小 2又1/2 杯中筋麵粉

塊的奶油，平均放在抹了麵粉的盤子上。用量杯量好一杯水，

1/3 杯細粒黃玉米麵粉

將所有材料放回冰箱10~15分鐘。

2 茶匙玉米粉 3/4 茶匙鹽 1 杯（兩塊）冷的無鹽奶油，切成0.5英寸大小的方塊 ILLUSTRATIONS BY FREEPIK.

1又1/4 杯磨碎熟成切達起司（白或黃皆可*） 1/2 杯再加2湯匙的冷水

2. 將所有的乾材料放入食物調理機中攪拌數次。放入奶油塊後，接著攪拌7~8次，直到所有奶油塊打碎至碗豆仁大小。打開蓋子，加入磨碎起司後蓋回蓋子。攪拌3~4次，直到起司跟所有材料充分混合。 3. 以8~10秒內倒完的速度，將水透過送料口倒入食物調理機中，一面倒、一面用攪拌功能攪拌。當所有東西開始結成大塊時，即可停止。

*替代方案：充滿風味的熟成起司，如高達起司或格魯耶爾起司。

4. 將麵團倒在工作桌面上，並分成兩半，且讓作為底部的那一半，比表層的那一半稍多一點。將麵團揉成球狀，分別放在保鮮膜上，平，厚度約0.75英寸。將平的麵團冷藏約１小時。

手製麵團 1. 將所有常溫乾材料置於大料理碗中。加入奶油塊，均勻揉進麵團中。 2. 所有材料堆在碗的中央。將1/2杯的水慢慢由碗的邊緣淋入，一面旋轉碗、一面淋。 3. 用叉子慢慢混合，倒入1/4杯的水，均勻和入麵團中。 4. 倒入最後1/4杯的水；用力揉麵團直到完全混合。如果還有些乾乾粉粉的部分揉不進麵團中的話，可加入最後的幾湯匙水揉合。 5. 將麵團倒在工作桌上，接續進行上面食物調理機製作方法的第四步驟。

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McKenna and Anyhony at their wedding in Malibu in October 2021. _by Brooke Borough Photography

ELITE PEOPLE

UNDETERRED BY TRAGEDY

Two entrepreneurs find fulfillment after a life-changing accident 在悲劇降臨之後一對年輕創業家的選擇 By Rhonda Sciortino

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENE MAGAZINE.

cKenna Weinstein, 26, is the daughter of a prominent Orange County, California, orthopedic spine surgeon and a successful realtor in Newport Coast, a community in what’s known as the California Riviera. McKenna is a bright, funny, strong, and determined young woman. In 2013, she entered the Marshall School of Business at the University of Southern California (USC) and quickly made the dean’s list and honor society. Before long, McKenna and two other classmates created a company called Topiku, which manufactures hats from recycled materials. Topiku was named by The Huffington Post as one of the top 10 companies to watch in 2016. The company also caught the attention of Inc. magazine, Tech Cocktail, GrindTV, and others.

我們永遠無法知曉，人生這條道路上有哪些考驗會不期而至。現年 26 歲的 McKenna Weinstein，其雙親分別是著名骨外科醫生和加州新港海岸的頂級房產經紀人，而她也繼承了父母的聰明與勤奮。 2013 年， McKenna 就讀於南加州馬歇爾商學院（USC Marshall School of Business）不久，就憑著優異的成績被列入院長嘉許名單（Dean's list）。 McKenna 憑著敏銳的商業頭腦，入學後不久，就和兩位同學新創了一間公司，名為「Topiku」，以永續概念為創意發想，藉回收材料生產休閒帽款。該創業點子引起了《公司》雜誌、Tech Cocktail、GrindTV 等的注意，還被《赫芬頓郵報》評為 2016 年「最值得關注的 10 家公司」之一。 Topiku 的聯合創始人中，有位來自中國的留學生，名叫 Anthony Zhang，現年 27 歲。他獨自一人離鄉背井，就讀於美國南加州大學，住在大學宿舍，正好在

SEEING AN OPPORTUNITY One of the other co-founders of Topiku was an enthusiastic young man from China named Anthony Zhang, now 27. He lived down the hall from McKenna in the USC dorms. He was alone in the United States without family, and it wasn’t long before Anthony and McKenna became friends as well as business partners.

McKenna 住宿處的樓下。兩人於不久之後，就成了好朋友和商業夥伴。一次，Anthony 無意中聽到其他學生的談話，他們正在抱怨校園內的食品外送服務過了營業時段後，他們只能挨餓，宵夜時段，在學生族群裡仍有相當的需求。 Anthony 因此嗅出了一股商機，決定發起在晚上 8 點後的食品配送服務。該業務在校園內成功拓展，後來甚至將其擴展到其他大學校園。

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命運轉捩點 Anthony就讀大學期間，曾有位教授邀請著名實境電視節目「SHARK TANK」的投資者，來校園舉辦講座，讓年輕企業家有機會近距離認識這些投資者，並贏得資助機會。對一名普通的學生而言，何曾想像自己能有機會與這些投資者交談，更遑論在他們面前推銷自己。然而，就在講座結束時，美國企業家Mark Cuban和節目製作人Mark Burnett 問在場的南加大學生，是否有人上過商學院，其中幾位學生舉起了手。他們接著發問：是否有人已經開始創業。此時， Anthony 是在場唯一一位還舉手的人。Mark Cuban 當場邀請他介紹其創業理念，儘管當時 Anthony 毫無準備，也很害怕在眾人前丟面子，但他仍盡力讓自己的聲音充滿信心，因為這將是他目前人生中，唯一一次可遇而不可求的推銷機會，出乎意料的是，他的即興演講竟成功獲得投資者的資助。為了慶祝這千載難逢的機遇，Anthony、McKenna 和一行朋友，一起去了拉斯維加斯度過週末。孰料，這一趟旅行讓一切都變了。 McKenna and Anthony met in their sophomore year at the Marshall School of Business.

在拉斯維加斯時，因 Anthony 錯估泳池深淺，在跳水時摔斷了脖子。當他的朋友們意識到情況不對，將其救上岸時，他幾乎失去意識。雖然撿回了性命，但他在重症監護室待了數月，然後進入脊髓損傷患者康復中心進行復

One evening, Anthony overheard other students talking about how hungry they were after the campus had closed down for deliveries. Anthony sensed an opportunity. He started a food delivery business for students who wanted to eat after 8 p.m., which was the cut-off time for outside delivery. The business was so successful that Anthony expanded it into other college campuses.

健療程。Anthony 以過人的毅力，努力復健訓練，終於恢復了一些基本功能，但餘生癱瘓，卻是一項無法改變的事實。永不放棄在Anthony住院期間，McKenna始終在其身邊，這是一段難能可貴的陪伴。當年，她不願Anthony獨自面對這艱難的復健日子，特別申請休學，只為前來照顧Anthony。在康復中心，McKenna和Anthony看到許多人，面對所愛之

A TURNING POINT When Anthony was 21, one of his professors invited to the campus investors from the television show Shark Tank, which connects entrepreneurs with investors seeking to fund the next big startup. None of the students expected to be able to speak to any of the “sharks,” much less pitch to them, but at the end of the session, Mark Cuban and Mark Burnett asked if any of the USC students attended business school. A few students raised their hands. Then they asked the students if any of them had already started a business. Anthony was the only one whose hand remained in the air. Mark Cuban, Anthony’s idol, invited him to pitch his business idea right on the spot. Completely unprepared and terrified of being humiliated, Anthony tried his best to sound 34│

人遭受嚴重創傷而不知所措，也有人為此選擇終結彼此的關係。然而，McKenna和Anthony卻未像他人那般漸行漸遠，反而在日積月累下，變得更加緊密，他們彼此相愛、扶持，並決定在2021年攜手步入婚姻。 McKenna 後來有回到大學完成她的商業學位，於 2018 年 12 月畢業。安東尼則繼續創業，後來，他創立的投資品牌「Vinovest」，是透過頂級葡萄酒的投資買賣，替投資者創造收益，人人都可將葡萄酒作為資產進行投資，其投資波動性比一般股市低。不僅如此，他還開展了其他新創平臺，如 Know Your VC，用以幫助未來的企業家找到合適的風險投資者。 Anthony 與 McKenna 的這段佳話，各自扮演著彼此生命中的英雄。儘管面對看似沉重的人生課題， Anthony 卻向眾人展現過人的意志與正向的力量； McKenna 對 Anthony 的不離不棄，也向我們所有人展示了真愛的力量。

confident as he made the biggest pitch of his life. His impromptu pitch was accepted. To celebrate, Anthony, McKenna, and a group of their friends went to Las Vegas for the weekend. That’s when everything changed. Anthony dove into a swimming pool that was shallower than it appeared and broke his neck. He nearly drowned before his friends realized that he hadn’t come back up. When he was finally rescued, he was almost gone. He spent months in intensive care and then in a rehabilitation center for spinal cord injury victims. Anthony worked hard to regain some basic function, but it was clear that he would remain a quadriplegic for the rest of his life.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANTHONY AND MCKENNA.

COURAGE AND PERSEVERANCE Throughout all those months, McKenna remained by his side. She took a leave from USC because she couldn’t imagine leaving him alone. While in the rehab center, McKenna and Anthony watched as

people walked away from long-term relationships, overwhelmed by the extent and permanency of the injuries sustained by their loved ones. Rather than drifting apart like the others, McKenna and Anthony got closer. They fell in love and married in October 2021. In 2017, McKenna returned to USC to complete her business degree, graduating in December 2018. Anthony became a serial entrepreneur. He founded Vinovest, which allows the average person to invest in wine as an asset and enjoy high annualized returns with lower volatility than the stock market. Another new business venture is the Know Your VC platform, which helps would-be entrepreneurs find the right venture capitalists. A nthony and McKenna are heroes. A nthony demonstrates to everyone within his inf luence the power of perseverance and resilience. McKenna demonstrates to us all what authentic love truly means.

Anthony in rehab center. The couple didn’t let Anthony’s injuries destroy their relationship.

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ELITE ARTS

LANDSCAPES of the SUBLIME 浪漫之用西方風景名作下的反思 By Jeff Perkin

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Come forth into the light of things, let nature be your teacher. —William Wordsworth 「進入萬物的光中，讓大自然做你的老師。」

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES.

——威廉 · 華茲華斯

Among the Sierra Nevada, California by Albert Bierstadt, circa 1868. Oil on canvas. _Courtesy of Smithsonian American Art Museum

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n times when “progress” charts a potentially perilous course for humanity, it's the role of art to remind us of our connection to life, both inside and outside ourselves. In the 18th and 19th centuries, as the industrial revolution transformed the human experience in the Western world, artists had serious concerns about its impact on both nature and the human soul. When governments and industries lead humanity forward unconsciously, it's the individual’s thoughts and connection to the divine that act as a light in the darkness. The scientific rationalism and reductionism of the Enlightenment period persuaded a large chunk of humanity that the profound mystery of life could eventually be categorized, explained, mechanized, and reduced in service of man. Mankind’s intellect promised dominion over nature. Artists, writers, and philosophers of the Romantic period were at odds with this way of thinking. For them, the natural world was a source of transcendental beauty and meaning—food for the soul. DIVINE RELATIONSHIP WITH NATURE Artists of the Romantic period in Europe were witnessing a disturbing transformation firsthand. As urban centers grew, severe economic impacts, due to the paradigm shift in production, displaced farmers who could no longer afford the way of life they had always known. Artists such as John Constable, the wealthy son of a rural landowner, painted scenes from agrarian life in an attempt to elevate it in the hearts and minds of people who were seeing it become more endangered. To Constable, “painting is but another word for feeling,” and he clearly shared the Romanticist’s feeling that people needed to be reminded of their intrinsic connection to nature. Paintings like The Hay Wain were a celebration of pastoral life. Figures were not the central focus of his landscapes, but rather part of a larger synergistic whole. People are portrayed as beings interacting within the larger being of the landscape. Great distances and impressive clouds feature prominently as though to invoke a sense of this larger being as the figures go about their work. Light filters from the sky through the leaves and across the surface of the water. Life is imbued throughout Romantic paintings without need for a definitive figurative focus. It was the unity of man with nature that artists like 38│

18 、 19世紀西方工業革命，澈底顛覆了人類過往的認知，藝術家們開始擔憂，「進步」對大自然與人類心靈造成的衝擊。隨著政府與製造業逐步發展，潛移默化的進入人群中，然而，是藝術提醒著我們，人與生活的連結，包括內在心靈與外在環境的聯繫，讓人得以獨立思考與對美好產生連結與嚮往。科學的理性主義與過於簡化人性的啟蒙運動，讓人們漸漸相信，生命的奧祕可以被歸類，並透過科學解釋，最終發展機械化取代人力。人類以才智自居，自認可以支配大自然。不過，一群浪漫主義時期的藝術家、作家和哲學家，極不贊同如此思考方式。對浪漫主義者而言，大自然是超凡的美麗，與一切意義的起源，其神祕與令人驚奇的複雜性，是人類的精神糧食，供人們反覆沉思默想，從中昇華。

Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog by Caspar David Friedrich, circa 1817. Oil on canvas. Kunsthalle Hamburg. _PD-US

Constable aimed to religiously depict. In their pantheistic view, when nature was abandoned or trampled, the human spirit would also be in turmoil. In Germany, Caspar David Friedrich painted scenes with similar Romantic reformational themes. Among the first northern European transcendental landscape artists, Friedrich passionately stated, “The artist should not only paint what he sees before him, but what he sees within him.” This spiritual and philosophical imperative was indicative of the Romantic commitment to achieving individual states of consciousness that revealed the divine presence in nature. Samuel Taylor Coleridge wrote at the time that “deep thinking is attainable only by a man of deep feeling, and all truth is a species of revelation.” Friedrich’s most renowned work, Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog, from 1818, invites viewers on a quest for revelation through solitary union with nature. The anonymous central figure has his back turned, allowing the viewer to engage him as an archetypal explorer looking out into a mountainous landscape enshrouded in clouds. This solitary figure stands perched above the clouds, looking as though he were ready to step into a higher dimension of existence— to disappear into eternity and union with God. Friedrich’s painting strives to fulfill the transcendentalist words of author Ralph Waldo Emerson, who wrote: “Standing on the bare ground, my head bathed by the blithe air, and uplifted into infinite space, all mean egotism vanishes. I become a transparent eyeball; I am nothing; I see all; the currents of the Universal Being circulate through me; I am part or particle of God.”

The Hay Wain by John Constable, circa 1821. Oil on canvas. Presented by Henry Vaughan, 1886. National Gallery, London. ＿PD-US

大自然與神的關係歐洲的浪漫主義時期藝術家們，親眼見證了這令人擔憂的改變。隨著都市擴張，以及生產方式改變，對經濟型態帶來巨大的影響，迫使農民無法再以過去的方式維生。看著自然環境日漸消失，像約翰・康斯塔伯（John Constable）這樣的藝術家們，特意畫出農村生活的景緻，試圖提高大自然在人們心中的價值。對康斯塔伯來說，「繪畫是感受的另一種表達方式。」他想透過繪畫，具象化浪漫主義者的想法，並且藉此提醒人們內心與大自然之間的聯繫。像《乾草車》(The Hay Wain）這類的作品，就是對鄉村生活的禮讚。人物並不是風景的焦點，而是作為增加畫面效果的元素之一。在這類繪畫中，人們是與

ROMANTICISM SPREADS WESTWARD America held the promise of a new world full of undisturbed natural beauty and a vast potential for expansion. Proponents of Manifest Destiny held that it was God-given destiny that the new inhabitants of America’s East Coast spread westward. A group of Romanticist painters on the East Coast, known as the Hudson River School, questioned the morality of America’s direction while also striving to depict the holiness they perceived in America’s breathtaking landscapes. Thomas Cole, regarded as the leader of the Hudson School, emigrated with his family to the United States in 1818. Known best for his allegorical landscapes

自然風景互動的生命，在人們埋首工作時，遙遠且雄偉的雲彩湧現，好似要喚起這宏大的存在。光線自天空灑落，穿過樹葉、越過水面。生命力充斥於浪漫主義的繪畫中，不需有明確的形象焦點，畫中人與大自然同調，像康斯塔伯這樣的藝術家，他們的目標是虔誠地描繪自然風貌。在其泛神論的觀點中，當大自然被遺棄或遭受侵犯時，人的精神也會陷入混亂之中。在德國，風景畫藝術家卡斯帕・大衛・弗里德里希（Caspar David Friedrich）的作品，相似於浪漫改革派的主題。身為北歐幾位風景畫藝術先驅，弗里德里希激昂地說道：「畫家不該只畫出他眼前所見的事物，還要畫出他內心所見。」這也是浪漫派將其精神灌注在畫作之上，有意識地揭示大自然中的神性。塞繆爾・泰勒・柯勒律治（Samuel Taylor Coleridge）在當時評論道： │39

View From Mount Holyoke, Northampton, Massachusetts, After a Thunderstorm:The Oxbow by Thomas Cole, circa 1836. Oil on canvas. ＿Courtesy of Metropolitan Museum of Art

in both series The Course of Empire and The Voyage of Life, Cole painted natural scenes deeply imbued with philosophical and spiritual meaning. One of his most famous landscapes is known as The Oxbow, and depicts a popular view from Mount Holyoke in Northampton, Massachusetts, in 1836. In his “Essay on American Scenery,” Cole stated: “The imagination can scarcely conceive Arcadian vales more lovely or more peaceful than the valley of 40│

「只有能深切感受的人得以深度思考，而所有真理，都是一種上天的啟示。」繪於 1818 年的《霧海上的旅人》是弗里德里希最為著名的作品。此畫想讓觀者獨自與自然產生連結，進而踏上天啟之路。畫面中心這位人物的背影，彷彿引領讀者進入畫中探險，遙望蒼茫，傲然而立，步入一個更高的境界——進入永恆，並與神合而為一。弗里德里希的畫作，力圖實現作家愛默生（Ralph Waldo Emerson）以超驗主義為觀點的一段話——

the Connecticut—its villages are rural places where trees overspread every dwelling, and the fields upon its margin have the richest verdure.” This sentiment is captured on the right side of his split composition The Oxbow. On the left, a dark storm with lightning enshrouds a wild area of untamed beauty. It seems to be a divine warning that humanity dare not take more than what it needs from the natural world. Cole further expresses his respect for undisturbed nature by saying: There are those who regret that with the improvements of cultivation, the sublimity of the wilderness should pass away: for those scenes of solitude from which the hand of nature has never been lifted, affect the mind with a more deep-toned emotion than aught which the hand of man has touched. Amid them the consequent associations of God the creator—they are his undefiled works, and the mind is cast into the contemplation of eternal things. According to associationist doctrine at the time, God was present in the landscape, and this presence could be experienced in America particularly because it was considered untamed. This belief elevated the landscape to a divine being in the minds of the Romanticists, and they endeavored to paint it as such. Nature to them was sublime, which philosopher Edmund Burke defined as “awe mixed with terror.” Foreboding weather and dramatic chiaroscuro enhanced this sense of awe and terror in paintings of Thomas Cole and Albert Bierstadt. The force of nature commands the respect and humility of humanity while simultaneously providing us abundant sustenance and astonishing beauty. It's difficult to look at paintings like these and not see the hand of the divine. Portraying the profound beauty of lands west of the Rocky Mountains, Albert Bierstadt gave Americans increased impetus to travel westward. The sublime, almost otherworldly scenes he painted are works that capture the transcendental magnificence of the natural wonders from which he gained inspiration. One can only imagine the overwhelming feeling paintings like Among the Sierra Nevada Mountains would impress on viewers. These natural wonders were to be revered and not tarnished. Westward expansion enabled artists to see such sights while also making them apprehensive about

「站在空曠大地之上，我的頭腦沐浴於無憂中，並升騰於無盡空間，一切卑劣的自我消失無蹤。我變成一顆透明的眼球，我化為空無，我眼觀萬物；宇宙生命之流動環繞著我。我成為上帝的一部分、一粒子。」浪漫主義向西方蔓延當時，美洲憑原始天然美景和巨大的開拓潛力，成為人們嚮往的新世界。 19世紀，昭昭天命（Manifest Destiny，又譯天命論）的支持者認為，上天賦予了美國東岸新住民向西拓展的使命。在東岸有一群浪漫主義畫家，被稱為哈德遜河派，他們質疑美國的發展方向是否符合道德，並盡其所能地描繪他們在歎為觀止的風景中，感受到的神聖。哈德遜河派的領袖，托馬斯・科爾（Thomas Cole）於 1818 年時與家人移居美國。他以寓言式的風景系列畫作《帝國歷程》和《生命之旅》著稱，科爾畫的自然景色充滿哲學和宗教寓義。他最出名畫作中有一幅名為《牛軛湖》，描繪了麻薩諸塞州北安普敦聖軛山的著名景色，是其 1836 年的作品。科爾在他的《論美國風景》中寫道：「靠想像力很難構想出一個比康乃狄克州更可愛或更平和的田園山谷——那裡的村子是一片鄉村景象，房屋之間長滿樹木，田野邊緣也鬱鬱蔥蔥。」《牛軛湖》右半邊的畫面表現出了他的此番見解；左邊，一場昏暗的暴雨籠罩著一片野生的原始美景。這就像是神的警示，在警告人類不准從大自然獲取多於他們所需的東西。柯爾更進一步表達他對原始自然的尊重：「隨著種植方法的進步，崇高的荒野將會死去，有人為此感到惋惜：荒野的景色從未離開過大自然的掌控，比起任何已受人染指的景色，它能影響更為深層的情緒。在自然中隨之而來的是與造物主的聯繫——這些景色是祂未遭褻瀆的作品，而人的思緒被祂拋進永恆事物的沉思中。」根據當時的聯想主義學說，上帝存在於風景中，而在美國特別能感受到祂的存在，是因為這裡被視作原始之地。該學說使浪漫主義者將風景提升為一個神聖的存在，因此他們致力於風景繪畫。大自然對他們來說是崇高的，哲學家埃德蒙・伯克（Edmund Burke）將其解釋為「敬畏又恐懼」。即將變天的預兆和戲劇性的明暗畫法，加強了托馬斯・科爾和阿爾伯特・比爾施塔特（Albert Bierstadt）畫作中的這種敬畏感，大自然的力量令人類尊重與謙遜，同時大自然也帶來充足的糧食和令人驚歎的美景，觀畫入境，自然能體察其中的神性。比爾施塔特描繪出洛磯山脈西部的偉岸與秀麗，這也激勵著美國人向西部前進。他從自然奇景中獲得靈感，刻畫出彷彿超脫塵世的景色。像《內華達山脈之中》這類作品，使觀畫者留下深刻印象，試想那份感動，就能理解這些自然奇景是該被尊敬而不該被玷汙的。 │41

humanity’s growing impact on the untamed world. The railway system that spread across America’s landscape was called “a winged horse or fiery dragon” by the American philosopher Henry David Thoreau. The train tore through landscapes in a powerful, loud, and efficient new way. The reality of the conquest of Native Americans must not have sat well in the conscience of many Americans, including Bierstadt, who respectfully painted them at peace amid the landscape in several of his great works. Nevertheless, “progress” plowed forward, and those captains of industry leading the charge were ironically also the most eager and able to purchase Bierstadt’s paintings. PROTECTING PARTS OF PARADISE Works and words from romanticist and transcendentalist artists and writers must have provided some of the momentum toward the beginning of the national park system in the United States. The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw an ever-increasing need and desire to preserve America’s natural wonders. In 1832, artist George Catlin wrote that these areas needed to be preserved "by some great protecting policy of government ... in a magnificent park, a nation’s park, containing man and beast, in all the wild and freshness of nature’s beauty!” It was the fruition of this idea that created protected places where millions of people continue to pilgrimage every year as though to commune with the divine in nature. Frederic Edwin Church ventured abroad in search of the sublime with voyages that took him to the tropics, South America, Mexico, Europe, the Middle East, Newfoundland, and other places. He brought back wild scenes that were enhanced in sublimity by his transcendentalist imagination. Rainy Season in the Tropics is a masterful tribute to the creative beauty of nature heightened for dramatic effect. A double rainbow and a dreamlike, light-filled landscape give the viewer the sense of a land of Edenic beauty. Church was also highly regarded for American scenes such as A Country Home, depicting an area on the edge of the Hudson River. In true Romantic form, small figures are painted as details in a grand, harmonious environment. Small children are seen fishing with their mother waiting on shore for them to come to dinner, and a colorful sunset embraces everything approvingly in its warm glow. Cows graze 42│

向西部前進，讓藝術家親眼目睹如此美麗的景色，卻也讓他們擔心這片未開發世界，逐日受人類影響。穿越美國風景的鐵路系統被美國哲學家梭羅（Henry David Thoreau）稱作「飛馬或噴火龍」。火車用一種新的方式疾馳、呼嘯穿越，既強大又有效率。而期間，侵略美國原住民的事實並未受到多數美國人良心上的認可，包括比爾施塔特，在他幾幅傑出的作品中，滿懷敬意地畫出在景色之中祥和的他們。儘管如此，「進步」仍奮力前行，而諷刺的是，那些引領著工業發展的人，卻也是最渴望，且最有能力購得比爾施塔特畫作的人。守護部分的天堂美國國家公園系統的創建初期，可部分歸功於浪漫主義和超驗主義藝術家和作家的創作。在19世紀末、20世紀初期，有越來越多人倡議維護美國的自然景觀。 1832 年，藝術家喬治・卡特林（George Catlin）寫下：「藉由政府一些極好的保護政策 ⋯⋯在一座壯麗的公園裡，一個國家的公園，裡面有人也有動物，都在自然的野生環境與原始的美麗中！」當意識到天然美景需要被保護時，人們為實踐此想法，相繼設立自然保護園區。每年都有大量民眾前往這些自然園區，彷彿是為了與大自然中的神祇交流。弗雷德里克・埃德溫・丘奇（Frederic Edwin Church）向海外冒險，尋找自然奇景，他的旅程到過熱帶地區、南美洲、墨西哥、歐洲、中東地區、紐芬蘭和其他地方。透過其超驗主義的想像力，提高了他畫中原始景觀的莊嚴感。《熱帶雨季》畫作，展現了大自然充滿創造力的戲劇效果，兩道彩虹和充滿光線的夢幻場景，讓觀畫者仿若身臨伊甸園般的美麗國度。丘奇也對美國的風景展現了高度關注，《鄉間住宅》描繪著哈德遜河邊緣的一隅。在典型的浪漫主義形式中，畫中小小的人物是壯觀、和諧環境中的細節。孩童像是在木舟上釣魚，他們的母親在岸邊等著他們回家吃晚飯，多彩的日落用它溫暖的餘暉擁抱萬物；乳牛徜徉在開闊的草地，大自然不被其中的人們所改變，而人們的存在也使大自然更具吸引力。超驗主義者相信，人類在自力更生和自由下能達到最佳狀態，他們認為，社會使人類敗壞也使人遠離了自然的生活方式。社會也往往會使人相互為敵。「社會使

Rainy Season in the Tropics by Frederic Edwin Church, circa 1866. Oil on canvas. ＿Courtesy of Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco

in open grass, and the natural world is enhanced and largely undisturbed by the presence of the people therein. The transcendentalists felt humans were at their best in a state of self-reliance and freedom. They believed that society corrupts individuals and removes them from a natural way of life. Society also tends to pit people against one another. “Society has parted man from man, neglectful of the universal heart,” William Wordsworth wrote in The Prelude. Romantic and transcendentalist paintings hold a timeless significance for humanity. They remind us that the human experience is so much more than

staring at screens. For such artists, a larger being not only created the world, but is also the source of life within it. Perhaps for these reasons, their paintings continue to call out to the human spirit.

人與人分離，忽略了全體的精神」，浪漫主義詩人華茲華斯在《序曲》中這麼寫著。浪漫主義和超驗主義者的作品，展現的意義不因時而異，他們提醒著人類，真實經歷遠比看電子產品還重要。對這些藝術家而言，有個更高的存在不只是創造了世界，也是世上生命的本源。也許就是這些原因，讓他們的作品一直能與人產生共鳴。 │43

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A Touch of Autumn Hues

寒露點秋色 2

PHOTOS BY 1STDIBS, ROCHE BOBOIS, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE AND WILLIAMS SONOMA.

In this Chinese painting, blossoms abound in a garden, a treasure-trove of autumn hues and an inspiration for decorating your home.

1 SWEDISH MID-CENTURY MODERN ART GLASS PENDANT LIGHT, $1,400, 1STDIBS. COM | 2 ROCHE BOBOIS, AKA HANAWA VASE DESIGNED BY KENZO TAKADA, $2,645, ROCHE-BOBOIS.COM | 3 WARM NORDIC, GALORE CUSHION SQUARE IN PALE ROSE, $176 (PRICE MAY VARY), 1STDIBS.COM | 4 ANAYA, MARBLE-PRINT LINEN PILLOW, $70, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 5 JULISKA, COUNTRY ESTATE CERAMIC DINNER PLATE, $58, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 6 MEPRA, STILE ICE BRONZE FIVE-PIECE STAINLESS STEEL PLACE SETTING SET, $268 (PRICE MAY VARY), SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 7 ROCHE BOBOIS, WINCH PIVOTING ARMCHAIR DESIGNED BY SACHA LAKIC, $2,875, ROCHE-BOBOIS.COM | 8 WILLIAMS SONOMA, HARVEST BLOOM TABLE RUNNER, $69.95, WILLIAMSSONOMA.COM LEFT PAGE: 清張若靄畫高宗御筆秋花詩軸

Qing Dynasty, depicting Emperor Qianlong’s autumn ﬂowers poem, by Zhang Ruoai, on hanging scroll. _Courtesy of The National Palace Museum 8

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ELITE HOME

DREAM HOUSE

RENOVATION An early 20th-century Spanish colonial gem restored to its former glory

改造夢想之家 20世紀西班牙殖民式珍寶恢復往日光華

By Neal Lorenzi

he team at Evens Architects faced a real challenge when they were tasked with restoring the house known as “Mi Sueño,” or Spanish for “My Dream.” It was a reinterpretation of Spanish Baroque and Spanish colonial architecture, conceived by famed architect Bertram Goodhue while he was lead designer for the 1915 Panama-California Exposition. That event was to celebrate the opening of the Panama Canal. When Evens Architects first encountered the property in 1998 in the Pasadena Arroyo, California, they found that decades of deferred maintenance and insensitive remodeling had left the once-proud house in poor shape.

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當年，Evens建築師事務所團隊面臨一個大挑戰：他們收到了為「Mi Sueño」（西班牙語「我的夢想」）建築改造的委託。Mi Sueño是對西班牙式的巴洛克及殖民風格的重新詮釋，由知名建築師 Bertram Goodhue擔任1915年巴拿馬-加利福尼亞博覽會首席設計師時所設計，是為了慶祝巴拿馬運河開通的盛事。 1998 年，當 Evens 建築事務所與 Mi Sueño 第一次邂逅時，他們發現，數十年來缺乏適當維護，以及隨意、馬虎地整修工程，使得這棟建築物風華不再。Evens Architects 團隊最大的目標，即是將 Mi Sueño 恢復往日光彩，同時也需符合新屋主的生活方式，任務艱巨。事實證明，於 2004 年完成的改造案，對於 Mi Sueño 而言宛如重生。

by Philip Clayton Thompson

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THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENE MAGAZINE.

The task confronting the design team—to restore the remaining fragments of Mi Sueño to their former glory while accommodating the lifestyle of the new homeowners—was daunting. The completed renovation in 2004 turned out to be a true rebirth. The existing magnificent living room, with its lushly detailed, coffered ceiling of Moorish design, was restored to its original condition. Exuberant landscaping now envelops the home, providing a variety of inviting outdoor spaces. Meanwhile, the completely reimagined master suite, with elaborate hand-cut Moroccan tile mosaics and a canopy bath, evokes a dream-like scenery. Mi Sueño was constructed in 1915. Originally designed as a residence for a banker from New Jersey named Herbert Coppell, the estate comprised several acres. As the estate changed hands over the years, most of it was sold off. In the 1940s, the house itself was divided into two parts, with one fragment becoming a separate house on the property immediately to the south—which still exists. The northern fragment, which included the living room, became Mi Sueño.

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現存的客廳，其充滿繁複細節的摩爾式花格天花板，已恢復往日精緻恢宏的樣貌。生機勃勃的庭院圍繞在建築物四周，提供了如水池、花園等各色各樣的戶外空間。而完全重新設計的主臥套房，用手工精心製作的摩洛哥馬賽克磁磚和頂蓬浴室畫龍點睛，構築了夢幻般的場景。 Mi Sueño 建於 1905 年，原是新澤西銀行家 Herbert Coppell 的自住宅，整個莊園占地數英畝之廣。數十年來幾經轉手，大多數土地已分割售出。 1940 年代，建築物主體被分為兩個部分，靠南的那一半建築物分割為一幢單獨的房子，現在依然存在。位於北方的一半，也就是包含客廳的那一部分，是這次改造案的主角——Mi Sueño。 KAA 設計集團旗下 Evens 事務所的合夥人 Erik Evens 表示，接手改建案時，房屋尚存的部分且狀況很好、值得保留下來的有客廳和入口門廊，還留存著 Goodhue 設計的石膏浮雕。其他部分由於經受了拙劣的整修，因此必須重新改造。 Evens 說，整修過程中最具挑戰的部分，是重整已損壞的結構。原來的牆是由空心磚所砌成，這種材質常見於 1915 年的建築，但現今已不再使用，且理由相當充分：「雖然磚塊很能承受擠壓，但質地較脆，且不能負荷南加州的地震強度。空心磚已經不符現今的建築法規。

The original parts of the house that were still of great quality and worthy of restoration included the living room and the entry hall, which featured original cast-plaster detailing designed by Goodhue, according to Erik Evens, partner at Evens Architects, a Los Angeles-based firm that’s part of KAA Design Group. The rest of the spaces had been poorly remodeled over the years and had to be reinvented. Evens said the most challenging part of the renovation was rectifying the structural deficiencies of the house. The walls were constructed of hollow clay tile, which was a common building material in 1915 but is no longer used today, and for good reason. “Although strong in compression, the clay bricks are quite brittle and not able to resist the earthquake loads we have in southern California. They simply would not be approvable under current building codes. So for the entire northeast wing of the house, we had to demolish the exterior layer of clay tile bricks and build a concrete shell around the house,” he said in an email interview. The original house included many details and motifs derived from the Moors, who left a lasting

所以，我們必須拆除整個東北翼主體磚牆的外層，然後用水泥重新於外層再造一面牆。」原始的建築物上，Bertram Goodhue 設計了許多摩爾式的裝飾與細節。摩爾人曾統治伊比利半島數百年，在藝術與文化方面留下了不可磨滅的影響。在這幢西班牙風建築物中最明顯可見的，就是氣勢恢弘的客廳花格天花板上細緻的星星設計。「我們運用了『星星』這個特色為起點，發展 Mi Sueño 其他空間的設計細節。」Evens 說，「此外，客戶特別要求一個又大又奢華的主臥套房，因此，我們將相鄰的一間臥室納入主臥範圍，並改造為一間摩爾風格的奇幻浴室，有個帶頂蓬的浴缸和充滿異國情調的摩爾式馬賽克磁磚牆面，我們的靈感來源是阿爾罕布拉宮。」—— 位於西班牙格拉納達綺麗無比的阿爾罕布拉宮殿。這裡使用的馬賽克磚是來自紐約的 Mosaic House。馬賽克磚的施工需要建築師事務所 Evens Architects、馬賽克磚製造者 Mosaic House，和室內設計師 Chris Barrett 三方面的合作無間。每一片磁磚都是手工切割，並採取傳統工法：在地面設置沙床，然後將磁磚背面朝上，在沙床上排好圖案。圖案排好之後，鋪上一層膠泥。待膠泥乾透，最後把整片嵌板裝設到牆上。「整個過程非常令人驚豔！」Evens 說，新浴室跟 1915 年的原始設計很不一樣。

Top: Details surrounding the fireplace. Left: Moorish motifs like these stars have been kept and widely used throughout the house. Left page: A close-up of the living room ceiling. _by Erhard Pfeiffer

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Top: The lushly detailed coffered ceiling in the living room. _by Erhard Pfeiffer Right: Many spaces, like these, embody a gracious elegance. _by Philip Clayton Thompson

Right page: The stately courtyard, like the house, is done in the Spanish Baroque and colonial styles. _by Erhard Pfeiffer

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Top: The master suite bathroom. The Alhambra in Spain inspired Evens Architects. _by Philip Clayton Thompson Right: Detail of a mosaic tile in the master suite bathroom. _by Erhard Pfeiffer

impact on art and culture in the Iberian Peninsula after centuries of conquest. Most notably, the Moorish inf luence is evident in the star detailing in the magnificent, coffered ceiling of the living room. “We used this as an inspiration to develop the new spaces of the house,” Evens said. “Our clients requested a large and luxurious master bathroom, so we reworked one of the existing secondary bedrooms into a Moorish fantasy bath, complete with hooded canopy tub and exotic Moorish cut tile mosaics on the walls. The Alhambra in Spain was certainly an inspiration,” he said, referring to the majestic palace complex in Granada. The mosaics were created by Mosaic House in New York City. Their installation required collaboration between Evens Architects, Mosaic House, and the interior designer, Chris Barrett. Constructed onsite using traditional methods, the mosaics were laid upside-down on a leveled bed of moist sand. Each piece was hand-cut. Once all the pieces were in place, a thin bed of mortar was poured over the back of the tiles. Once that was cured, the panels were tilted up and installed on the walls. 52│

“It was an amazing process!” Evens said, as bathrooms were constructed very differently back in 1915. The team also created a modern family kitchen and gutted the northeast wing of the house “to create a new, cozy family room, which opens to the main courtyard through broad French doors,” Evens said. This restoration was a good fit for Evens Architects, as the firm is committed to the idea that architecture inspired by classic traditions—whether the sources are Spanish, Italian, French, or Moroccan— is well-suited to the climate, landscape, and culture of contemporary California.

設計團隊設計了現代化的家庭式廚房，並且把房子的北翼內裝整個刨除，「我們規劃了一個全新而舒適的起居室，此外，朝向主庭院的方向敞開一道法式門。」 Evens 介紹。 Evens 建築事務所致力於發揚經典與傳統建築風格，該改建案尤其操辦，可謂不二之選。無論是西班牙式的、意大利式的、法式的或摩洛哥式的設計，都很適合現代加州的氣候、景觀和文化特色。

The shower room in the master bathroom. _Photography by Erhard Pfeiffer

ELITE CULTURE

Why We Learn to Write The importance of the written word and its impact on society 為何要學寫作？淺談書寫之必要與社會影響 By Poppy Richie

arents may be challenged by their child’s homework frustration—“Why do I have to do these writing assignments? I don’t like to write! I’ll never be a writer, so why do I need to learn this?” How can we answer that? Talking about examples of how writing has always helped us, both long ago and today, could motivate a more serious attitude about this important academic subject. Being able to write now is even more essential for most jobs than it ever was. A brief history of why people started writing in ancient times might be a good place to begin to persuade reluctant writers.

要怎麼幫助孩子面對做作業的挫折，是許多家長所面臨的挑戰——「為什麼一定要寫作文？我不喜歡寫東西！反正我又不要當作家，那為什麼我還要學這個？」我們要怎麼回答孩子呢？和他們聊聊從古到今的寫作是如何幫助人們的，通常可以讓孩子對寫作產生更深一層的動機。對現今社會而言，良好的寫作能力更是許多職業的必備技能。想要說服不甘願寫作的人，先讓我們了解過去人類為何開始書寫，或許是個不錯的開端。最初的文字紀錄洞穴中的壁畫或岩石上的圖案，顯現人類最早試圖彼此溝通的跡象。遠古人類為什麼要在岩壁上畫圖？是什麼

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENE MAGAZINE.

促使他們用簡單的線條開始描繪？考古學家猜測，這是

LEAVING OUR MARK The earliest signs of people trying to communicate are pictures in caves and on rock walls. What did early humans paint, and what prompted them to draw these simple sketches? Archaeologists guess that because they had shamanistic beliefs, they may have used pictographs to communicate with the spirit world about their lives as hunters, since most of the paintings are of animals. Cave Art by Jean Clottes, one of many books on this topic, features colorful photographs of Paleolithic art. All we have, though, are guesses about their purpose. We may not understand much about the cave drawings, but fast forward a few thousand years to the ancient written languages, such as that developed by the Sumerian civilization (present-day Iraq) around 3400 B.C.Merchants needed a written language for commerce in order to keep track of transactions, which they did on clay tablets with a script called cuneiform. By the third millennium B.C., Sumerian scribes were also recording essays, hymns, poetry, and myths. Ewan Clayton writes on the British Library website: “The earliest form of writing was pictographs— symbols which represented objects—and served to aid in remembering such things as which parcels of grain had gone to which destination or how many

因為他們的薩滿信仰，想透過圖畫跟神靈溝通他們的狩獵生活，因為大多石壁畫都是畫動物。市面上有許多書以此為題，其中一本由法國考古學家Jean Clottes所著的《岩洞壁畫》（Cave Art），書中刊滿了色彩繽紛的舊石器時代藝術。不過，遠古人類在岩壁上畫圖的真正目的，我們目前還是只能用猜的。我們可能無法理解這些岩洞壁畫的準確意義，不過將時間倒轉回數千年前，來到出現書寫語言的時代，如約西元前 3400 年，彼時蘇美文明（位於現今伊拉克境內）發明了一種書寫系統，稱為楔形文字。因當時商人需要利用書面文字將商務交易記錄下來，於是把這些紀錄刻在泥板上。至西元前 3000 年，蘇美人的泥板上，出現了散文、詩歌、讚美詩和神話故事。

A tablet with ancient Sumerian script, one of the earliest forms of writing. ＿PD-US

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sheep were needed for events like sacrifices in the temples. These pictographs were impressed onto wet clay which was then dried, and these became official records of commerce.”

著名英文書法家、作家 Ewan Clayton 在大英圖書館網站上寫道：「最古老的書寫形式是象形文字——代表物體的符號——用以幫助人們記得某一包糧食已經送達哪個地點，或者下次獻祭需要多少頭羊。這些象形文字被刻在溼泥板上，晾乾，最後成為交易紀錄。」人類

THE WAY OF WORDS We are inherently social beings, and we need to communicate. From a religious perspective, God created us as his children, and we are like a big family. We depend on one another. Words convey important practical messages, as in the Sumerian example. They can also profoundly move us. The written word is often necessary for survival, as Holocaust survivors have testified. My sister-in-law’s Jew ish parents endured a frightening imprisonment in a Czechoslovakian concentration camp. Her mother told her how victims saved scraps of paper on which to write down favorite recipes. They were starving, so food was one of the most popular topics of conversation. As they remembered better times by sharing favorite recipes, they kept each other sane in that crazy, inhumane environment. In Germany, a Hungarian Jew named Edith Peer composed the Ravensbrück Cookbook while she was a prisoner at the Ravensbrück concentration camp in 1945. Peer, only 16 at the time, listened to older women comforting each other by sharing their favorite recipes. This inspired her to take the risk of stealing paper and pencils so the women could record family dishes and recipes for special Jewish celebrations. That cookbook miraculously survived and is now in the Sydney Jewish Museum. Writing under such difficult circumstances provided life-saving stimulation for the women in the concentration camps. Likewise, POWs in Vietnam supported one another through a tapping language they used to comfort and give hope to one another. In June 1965, four POWs imprisoned in Hoa Lo, the famous “Hanoi Hilton”—Capt. Smitty Harris, Lt. Phillip Butler, Lt. Robert Peel, and Lt. Cmdr. Robert

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天生就有社交需求，因而需要溝通交流。從宗教角度看，上帝創造人類作為祂的子民，而人類有如身在一個大家庭中相互扶持、依靠。特殊時期下的文字之用文字，除了像蘇美人的泥板一樣，傳達重要且實際的訊息外，同時也可以感動人。而書寫對於生存也常常是不可或缺的，例如記錄納粹大屠殺倖存者的證言。我有位姻親在捷克斯洛伐克一處集中營度過了一段慘無人道的日子。她的母親告訴她，被關押者是如何四處搜集破碎的小紙片，並寫下心愛的食譜——他們無時無刻都在挨餓，因此食物是最受歡迎的話題。在分享彼此最喜愛的食譜時，也讓他們能在泯滅人性的環境下，維持清醒的神智。在德國，匈牙利猶太人 Edith Peer 於 1945 年被關押在拉文斯布呂克集中營時，寫了一本《拉文斯布呂克食譜》（Ravensbrück Cookbook）。當時她年僅 16 歲，常有機會聽到其他較年長女性討論食譜的話題，於是她在營地內冒險偷取紙筆，讓她們可以把家傳菜和猶太的節慶食譜記錄下來。這本食譜神奇地保留了下來，現存於澳洲的悉尼猶太博物館（Sydney Jewish Museum）中。對被關押在集中營的女性而言，在如此艱困的情況下，寫作成為她們生命的救贖。同樣的，越戰期間的美國戰俘，則透過一種敲擊的暗號互相溝通、彼此慰藉。 1965 年 6 月，四名被關押在惡名昭彰的「河內希爾頓」華盧監獄的俘虜，上校 Smitty Harris、上尉 Phillip Butler、Robert Peel 和少校 Robert Shumaker 發明了一種密碼，也教其他人使用。一部描繪他們這段生死存亡經歷的紀錄片《光榮歸來》（Return With Honor），曾於 2000 年 11 月 13 日登上美國公共廣播電視公司（PBS）的「美國印象」（American Experience）節目。就像現在的人傳短訊一樣，戰俘們也自創了不少縮寫。如「GBU」即代表「God bless you」（上帝保佑你）。這些軍人也會以幽默感為彼此帶來溫暖和陪伴，

Left: A page from the Divine Comedy by Dante Alighieri. The long narrative poem, composed in Italian circa 1308–21, is regarded as one of the world’s great works of literature. ＿PD-US Right: A 15th-century manuscript of the Odyssey, is housed at the British Museum. ＿PD-US

Shumaker—invented and used a secret code they shared with other prisoners. Aired on November 13, 2000, on PBS’s American Experience, a video production called “Return With Honor” highlighted their life-and-death experience in the prison camp. As with texting today, the prisoners created abbreviations. “GBU” meant “God bless you.” The men provided comfort and companionship with a sense of humor at times, using abbreviations such as “DLTBBB”—“Don’t let the bed bugs bite!” POW Vice Adm. James Stockdale wrote about the significance of the code in his book In Love and War: “Our tapping ceased to be just an exchange of letters and words; it became conversation. Elation, sadness, humor, sarcasm, excitement, depression—all came through.”

例如，「DLTBBB」的意思是「Don’t let the bed bugs bite!」（不要被床蟲咬啦！）戰俘 James Stockdale 中將在其著作《愛與戰爭》（In Love and War）中提到這套密碼的重要性：「這套密碼不只是文字的交換，更是重要的對話方式，其中流露著我們的得意、悲傷、幽默、諷刺、興奮與沮喪」。探尋書寫意志當Stockdale描述這些縮寫如何傳達戰俘們最深層的情感時，即是在展現文字的力量。儘管是用敲擊而不是書寫，重要的對話發生了，而且或許還能救命。那麼文字書寫呢？對我們有什麼衝擊或影響？想想史上最暢銷的書籍——《聖經》。過去數世紀間，《聖經》改變了多少人的人生呢？文字可以使人發生轉變，這就是為什麼書寫如此重要。那麼，比《聖經》更早出現的著作呢？荷馬的史詩

POWERFUL WORDS THROUGH THE AGES Stockdale demonstrates the power of language when he describes how the abbreviated writing of the POWs conveyed the most profound emotions. Even though it was tapping and not writing, important communication happened and might have even saved lives. What about the written word—what kind of impact can that

《奧德賽》或但丁的《神曲》都變成無用的古董了嗎？人們至今仍然閱讀這些書，而且持續不斷地引用。約於西元前四世紀成書的《伊索寓言》，在現代社會中也常常用來教導孩子們的品德。完成於 1500 年代晚期到 1600 年代初期的莎士比亞作品，是文學史上最重要的劇作之一。莎士比亞作品的精妙之處，在於能夠表現人類共通的生命經驗和思想品德。

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American students should study these works and others that have so powerfully affected the development of our nation, including Lincoln’s famous Gettysburg Address and Dr. Martin Luther King Jr.’s “I Have a Dream” speech. When Dr. King gave his immortal speech, he encouraged humanity to believe his vision for a better world. The written word is one of the most important gifts we have. When we get stuck in our efforts to express ourselves on paper, we can remember how fortunate we are to receive the words of those who came before us. Perhaps this can inspire us to want to leave our own written legacy, at least for our families. 如果沒有如莎士比亞、托馬斯 · 默頓、C.S. 劉易斯、維克多 · 弗蘭克、老子等作家藉由文字傳達道德準則，人類的文明必定會更快衰敗。事實上，美國能成為一個繁盛的國家，倚靠的就是這些重要文字，如：〈獨立宣言〉、〈美國憲法〉和〈權利法案〉等。如果當初沒有寫下這些管理國家的條例，我們生存的國家必然會處在一團混亂中，且走向自我毀滅。這些重要文件的作者，會因為他們的智慧和對每個字的虔誠關注，永駐人民心中。美國的學子們都應該好好學習這些對我們國家影響深遠的作品，包括林肯著名的「蓋茲堡演說」，和馬丁．路德．金恩博士的「我有一個夢」演講，成功喚起人性的光明，共同相信他的美好願景。文字書寫是人類最寶貴的禮物。當我們在寫作中陷入膠著時，不妨反思，如今可以輕易地閱讀這些先人的思想是多麼幸運的事，也或許從中獲得啟發，並透過自我書寫，留下珍貴的印記。

PHOTOS BY OF USPLASH.

have on us? Consider the all-time, No. 1 bestseller, the Bible. How many people’s lives have been profoundly changed over the centuries by the Bible? Words can transform lives. That is why writing is so important. What about books that were written long before the Bible? Is Homer’s Odyssey or Dante’s Inferno antiquated and useless? People still read these books and reference them again and again. Aesop, thought to have lived between 620 and 560 B.C., left his fables, which were collected and recorded several hundred years after his death. The fables are often used in our modern age as an enjoyable way to teach morals to children. Shakespeare, whose plays were written in the late 1500s and early 1600s, is one of the most famous playwrights in the history of literature. His genius is in his ability to convey universal themes of life and relationships along with moral instruction. Without writers who are guided by a moral compass like Shakespeare, Thomas Merton, C.S. Lewis, Victor Frankl, Laozi, and many others, civilization would surely decline. In fact, we exist and flourish as a nation because of essential pieces of writing, such as the Declaration of Independence, the American Constitution, and the Bill of Rights. Without these defining words for governance, we’d live in a chaotic nation that would inevitably self-destruct. The writers of these crucial documents will always be remembered for their sage and prayerful attention to every word they wrote.

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ELITE TRAVEL

A STORYBOOK CITY: FINDING THE BEST OF PRAGUE 童話之都尋布拉格之最

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES.

By Tim Johnson

Prague is a city full of history. The iconic Gothic-style Church of Our Lady before Týn, which dates back seven centuries, is a dominant feature of Old Town. _by Jackyenjoyphotography/Getty Images

The moment you step into Old Town Square, you are surrounded by historical buildings.

nyone who has been there will tell you: Prague feels like a fairy tale. It doesn’t matter if it’s your first visit or your 20th; when you walk into Old Town Square just after dark, you will draw a breath. Your head will tip up, admiring the monuments and spires: the soaring Gothic towers of Our Lady before Tyn, the solid bricks of Old Town Hall, and the astronomical clock dating back to 1410, the oldest one still in operation in the world. Some have called this Czech capital the “largest open-air museum on earth,” and that’s fair. Spared most of the bombs that turned many other European cities into post-World War II reconstructions, Prague’s oldest buildings and bridges actually date back centuries. But it’s more than that. Czechs have always been believers—including the late Vaclav Havel, the country’s poet-turned-president. Artists are rarely well-suited for government work, but Havel made the initial transition well, elected to lead the country into a new future. At the Prague Castle, a national institution that overlooks the entire city, from the soaring buttresses of St. Vitus Cathedral to the windows (and defenestration) that instigated the Thirty Years’ War, this is an important place. Havel outfitted the guards with what he estimated to be storybook uniforms. He invited Frank Zappa, whose recordings were banned under Soviet rule, for an official state visit. Havel ended the gray of communism and gave the country a f lourish of color— and it hasn’t looked back.

Prague is well-served by its public transportation system, enabling visitors to get to most destinations by public transit.

每個到過那的人都會告訴你：布拉格就像童話故事般。無論你是第一次造訪抑或是第 20 次，當夜幕低垂，踏進老城區廣場（Old Town Square），一幢幢千年歷史的建築古蹟，如畫卷般印入眼簾。高聳入雲的哥德式塔樓——泰恩教堂（Our Lady before Tyn），令人駐足仰望。廣場中央，老市政廳堅實矗立其中，其南面牆上的美麗天文鐘，自西元 1410 年運行至今，是世上運行最久的鐘塔。歷史名城捷克首都布拉格，素有「地表上最大的露天博物館」之稱。當二次世界大戰無情的炸彈落在歐洲大陸上，戰後許多城市陷入艱難重建期，但這並未波及布拉格城內大多的老舊建築與城橋。占地七萬平方公尺的布拉格城堡，建於西元870年，是世界最大的古堡，現為總統辦

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公處，其址可以俯瞰整座城市。烽火歲月中，這裡曾在 17世紀「三十年戰爭」爆發時，被攻城掠地；時光荏苒，這裡的聖維特大教堂，也曾迎來多位國王於此登基加 The Prague Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square is the oldest clock in the world still in operation. It was first installed in 1410.

冕。這座千年古堡是個名副其實的歷史重地。因此搭配導覽參訪城堡的行程，是布拉格不容錯過的體驗，別忘了爬上河岸邊上的小丘眺望這座城市。 │61

Left: Historical brewery in the town of Pilsner. _by Shutterstock Right: Bottles of Pilsner Urquell sport a logo with the iconic main gate of the beer factory. _by Joe Raedle/Getty Images

BEER HERITAGE One thing that didn’t suffer through the years—beer. Czechs drink more of the stuff per capita than any other country on earth, and it remains their passion. In the nearby town of Pilsen, the famous Pilsner was born, created when a group of frustrated homebrewers decided to unite and brew a product that was consistently great. The town is now home to Pilsner Urquell, the national beer, where you can take a tour beyond the gates and explore deep into the heart of the operation. Walk through the process with a guide, learning general brewing processes as well as their own special take on the product. Then enjoy a pint nearby. Some of the bars in town offer unfiltered and unpasteurized versions. In some cases, the brewery delivers the freshest version they can provide, direct from the factory, in a shining tank. And you can get a beer massage, too, which I experienced while staying at a luxury hotel that was once a monastery (and still is, with just a handful of monks occupying a corner of the building). The monks still brew the good stuff, and one brings a sample in a silver urn to the spa, where it’s mixed into a massage oil. The brochure mentions many healthy properties; the brew regenerates your skin. There are a number of sites you should visit when you come to Prague—Old Town Square, certainly. A guided tour of Prague Castle, up on the hill on the 62│

另一個經典行程，就是漫步於 1357 年建造的查理大橋（Charles Bridge），這座跨越伏爾塔瓦河的歷史名橋，兩旁有許多著名的雕像。大橋之名源自神聖羅馬帝國皇帝——查理四世，其在位期間，為中世紀捷克最強盛文明的「黃金時代」，他的印記遍布整座城市。回顧歷史，捷克人一直都是虔誠的信仰者，包括已逝世的詩人總統 —— 瓦茨拉夫 · 哈維爾（Vaclav Havel）。儘管人們常說，藝術家大多不適合於政府工作，但哈維爾當選執政後，帶領了捷克共和國走入新紀元。在其治下，捷克結束了共產體制，全國士兵配上新制服，就如同童話故事裡描繪的那般。他還親邀了美國音樂家 Frank Zappa 來訪—— 這是歷史性的一舉，因為這位作曲家的作品曾在共產時期被列為禁曲。哈維爾帶領捷克擺脫共產陰霾，亮麗整裝重新出發，從此不再與共產主義有所瓜葛。傳承啤酒文化在歷經風霜的浩浩歲月之中，唯有一物不是那般沉重，那便是令人振奮的啤酒！捷克人對於啤酒的狂熱，體現在其人均消耗量，高於世界上其他任何國家。在皮爾森（Pilsen）小鎮附近，以生產具有國家代表性的啤酒品牌「Pilsner Urquell」而聞名於世。起初，當地自家私釀的啤酒品質不一，後來居民集眾人之力，打造出品質穩定優良的酒種。遊人不妨想像，經典電影《巧克力冒險工廠》，以威利 · 旺卡（Willy Wonka）風格，深入釀造重地，沉浸式體驗啤酒製作的核心過程。透過導覽，可了解一些啤酒製造的基本知識，及其獨家釀造方式，並爽飲一杯啤酒。有些酒吧還特別提供了未過濾以及未滅菌處理的生啤，口感更新鮮、清爽。

Walking across the Charles Bridge on the Vltava River is a must. From this medieval bridge, you can enjoy the views up and down the river. _by Sven Hansche/Getty Images

far side of the river, is a must. And a stroll across the Charles Bridge, a span whose construction dates back to 1357, is the signature experience here. Lined with statues, it’s named for the first king of Bohemia to be named Holy Roman Emperor, Charles IV—his stamp remains all over the city.

有時釀造廠還會供應原廠直送，最新鮮的啤酒。此外，你也可以在飯店體驗「啤酒馬殺雞」（按摩），我曾在下榻的五星酒店試過，該酒店曾是一座修道院，如今還有一隅仍供僧侶們使用。這些僧侶們釀造許多上好的啤酒，有時他們會把樣品裝在銀桶中，帶到水療中心，把這些新釀的啤酒混入按摩精油中，作為 Spa 使用。導覽冊提到不少關於此特殊配方對身體的益處，如啤酒內

CITY QUIRKS But you’ll find quirks, too. Just off Old Town Square, in the bureaucratic environs of City Hall, you’ll discover one of the world’s weirdest elevators. Built without doors, the cars just move constantly. Step on, then alight at your desired f loor. No buttons required. It’s a strange and slightly wonderful experience to ride this lift, striding into the car, then stepping off at your desired f loor while the whole operation just continues to roll. Seeing the city from the river is a rare and absolutely worthwhile endeavor. While staying at the Four Seasons Prague, one of the few properties here

的酵素可以促進肌膚再生能力等。城市奇遇儘管有著深厚的歷史文化，這座美麗而偉大的城市，仍有一些令人費解的「景點」。離開老城廣場，在如今的市政廳內，你會發現世上最奇怪的電梯。這種「帕特諾斯特」電梯沒有門，沒有任何按鈕，而且不停地升降運行，你只需踏進電梯，然後再從你欲前往的樓層下來，不失為一新奇有趣的體驗。布拉格的布局，讓遊客能從河岸俯瞰整座城市。當我待在布拉格四季酒店時，其中有幾間客房就在莫爾道河（Vltava，捷克境內最長的河流）上。我搭上了一艘摩托艇，船長 Stepan 是四季酒店的員工。 1990 年代， │63

酒店將四座標誌性的歷史建築併在一塊作為飯店使用，而這位船長曾在 2001 年洪水氾濫之際，救助了許多困在河上的民眾。時過境遷，他駕著一艘小木船，愜意地向遊客們展現他們前所未見的布拉格景緻。登船後，我們在河上前行。我們首先通過查理大橋下狹窄的河道，然後經過了「小維也納」—— 一條兩旁都是老磨坊的河道，還有河岸邊的餐廳與酒吧。 Stepan 船長手握著船舵說：「在共產主義掌權的時期，這裡的汙染非常嚴重，你甚至無法從河的這一端看見另一端。」如今，微涼的風徐來，我對此行心滿意足，徜徉在這國度最長的河道上，而這座世上最大的露天博物館就在我身旁。一杯沁涼的啤酒在岸上等著我，但接下來的一個鐘頭，我會先沿河道繼續前行，從另一側看這美麗的城市。

While staying at the Four Seasons hotel, you can enjoy stunning city views. The hotel also facilitates boat tours on the Vltava River. _courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Prague

that sits directly on the Vltava—the longest river in the Czech Republic—I climbed into a small motorboat with Captain Stepan. Employed by the Four Seasons Hotel since the hotel renovated and grouped four distinct buildings into one united operation in the 1990s, he helped authorities rescue stranded people when floods on the river rose to record levels in 2001. Now, he simply pilots a little wooden boat and shows visitors a view of Prague they’ve never before seen. After climbing in, we roll. First, through narrow passageways I’d never imagined, under the Charles Bridge. Then past Little Venice, a canal lined with old mills, plus waterfront restaurants and bars. “During communist times, the pollution was so bad, you couldn’t see from one side of the river to the other,” he said, hand steady at the controls. A chill is in the air, and I’m happy to be here now, on the country’s longest waterway, the world’s greatest open-air museum rising around me. A beer awaits when I get back to dry land. But for the next hour, I’ll ride, seeing a whole different side of the city. 64│

IF YOU GO 旅遊資訊 Getting Around 交通

The city offers an extensive public transit system, with subways and streetcars d like covering most of the destinations you’ s Uber, too, in a pinch. to visit. There’ 這個城市擁有完善的大眾運輸系統，可以搭乘地鐵或有軌電車前往大多數的景點。如果必要，這裡也可以叫到出租車（計程車），如Uber。 Stay 住宿

The Four Seasons Prague is one of the few hotels in the city situated directly on the river. Take its river tour to see the city in a whole new way. 布拉格的四季酒店是城市中少數幾間佇立於河面上的酒店。下榻該酒店，並且參加他們的遊河導覽，是享受這座城市的好方法。 Note 備註

Despite its popularity, Prague remains a relatively inexpensive destination, in part because it has shunned the euro in favor of the Czech crown (CZK). Most shops and restaurants will accept euros and re best off even American dollars, but you’ getting local currency. 儘管作為熱門的旅遊城市，遊歷布拉格的旅費其實相對較少，因為該地的通用貨幣為捷克克朗，大多數的商家及餐館都接受歐元，甚至是美金。但在此最好的花費方式，仍是換成當地貨幣。

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