Elite Lifestyle Magazine : Issue 61 by 《時尚精英》: Premier Chinese Luxury Magazine

E L I TE 時尚精英

Tips for Healthier Hair 養髮祕笈

成功女性創業心法精采歷史親子教養

Kate Somerville APRIL-JUNE 2023

巨星御用護膚品牌創業故事

A Woman Inventor’s Impact 摺疊紙袋發明家

Shedding Light on the Darkest Places Actress

Alyssa Zheng’s story

ISSUE 61

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闓

百凸： " A, . . ，＇

目錄 CONTENTS 8

Editor’s Pick: A Whisper of Roses

Tips for Beautiful, Healthy Hair

Overcoming Adversity: Kate Somerville’s Philosophy for Life

編輯精選：玫瑰色

讓秀髮再次閃耀！

凱特· 薩莫維爾——擊退傷疤打造巨星御用護膚品牌

How the Humble Paper Grocery Bag Was Invented

Actress Alyssa Zheng: Rediscovering an Artist’s True Mission

選讀精采歷史：摺疊紙袋之母

找回演藝夢——專訪華裔女演員鄭雪菲

Timeless Elegance Contemporary pageant rediscovers ancient beauty 大唐后範永垂——當代選美再探傳統之美

Mom of Four Becomes Successful Entrepreneur: Five Marys Farm 從矽谷到農場——加州四孩母親創業記

52 52 On the COVER

Recipe: Grilled Steaks With Chermoula Butter

Recipe: Asparagus With Fried Lemon and Garlic

食譜：碳烤牛排佐北非風味謝穆拉奶油

食譜：蒜香蘆筍佐炸檸檬

Mother Nature by Design

「綠意」居家改造妙方

How to Get Kids to Appreciate Classical Music and Why

Lladró: Creative Concept Store to Open in New York City

Model: Actress Alyssa Zheng Photographer: Scott Song

2│

如何培養孩子的古典音樂素養

雅緻概念店新張

序 EDITOR’S NOTE 女中豪傑

當代女性已不再僅是「主內」的要角，更在社會中扮演各式各樣的角色，女性是否要為了家庭而放棄夢想的難題，從未因世代交替而消逝。本期以女性為焦點，特別收錄數篇精采的故事。著名護膚品牌創辦人凱特 · 薩莫維爾（Kate Somerville），成長歷程艱辛，並受嚴重的皮膚溼疹問題所困，但她努力不懈尋求解決之道，在這過程中得到意想不到的收穫。如今其品牌仍持續穩定成長，並廣受名流喜愛與信賴。一起來了解她的成功之道。回顧美國發明史，瑪格麗特 · 奈特（Margaret E. Knight）留下了耀眼的一頁。她作為一名女性卻熱愛機械發明，不僅天賦異稟，還有令人欽佩的骨氣——為其專利奮鬥到底——在艱難的時局下，她不畏挫折，值得後人一同回憶她留下的印記。本期封面故事為華裔女演員鄭雪菲的專訪，分享從她母親的遭遇，到她決定離開中國來到北美的心路歷程，在在展現了為真理而義無反顧，以及作為一名演員的使命感，看似柔美卻懷有一顆堅毅無比的心。加州「五瑪麗農場」（Five Marys Farm）為本期生活風格專題，創辦人瑪麗 · 赫弗南（Mary Heffernan）原在矽谷地區做生意，為了追尋更好的食材，決定全心投入牧場經營。瑪麗一家人從無到有的奮鬥精神，與大膽嘗試的開創性，在短短數年間，其營運項目不再只是一間牧場，更從店鋪到電商，再到授課建立社群，一個生氣蓬勃的企業持續擴張，他們的生命力源自何方？期盼本期故事，帶給您一些相信夢想的力量。

真善忍

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Don’t let your closest connection to nature be through f lorists. In this season of renewal, step outside and explore your local rose gardens. The fragrance of roses is calming and uplifting at the same time. It has long been associated with love, healing, and miracles, with many stories passed down through history and legend. 別再為花店裡的玫瑰花束駐足，正是好時節，親自到玫瑰花園踏青，看看玫瑰花叢裡，除了有朵朵盛開的玫瑰，還藏有哪些浪漫的故事……

The Rose of All Roses by Wilhelm Menzler, a German painter wellloved for his portraits, genre paintings, and flowers,1889. _PD-US

PRESIDENT

PUBLISHER

Dana Chang

Ellen Wang

EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR

Channaly Philipp Astrid Wang

PROFILE EDITOR

Annie Wu

LIFESTYLE EDITOR

Crystal Shi

BEAUTY EDITOR

Ida Pink

HOME EDITOR

Sunny Lo

ARTS EDITORS

Sharon Kilarski Jennifer Schneider

EDITORS-AT-LARGE CONTRIBUTORS

Cora Wang Jennifer Tseng, Ann Lin Rhonda Sciortion, Andrew Benson Brown Hazel Atkins, Angelica Reis Ling Lin Jenny Han

COPY EDITORS

QUEENS CARPETONE CORP.

全美最大的家庭裝飾連鎖公司 Carpet One Floor & Home 唯一華人成員

Leeshai Lemish, Xiaofei Wang TRANSLATORS

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EDITOR’S PICK

4 5

A Whisper of Roses

玫瑰色 Late spring to summer is the heyday of blooming roses. Each shade of their soft petals—from passionate crimson to elegant light pinks and creams— whispers a secret language. Add a few pieces to your wardrobe so there will always be a perfect shade to express your mood.

1 GUCCI, SQUARE OVERSIZED SUNGLASSES, $405, MYTHERESA.COM | 2 PIAGET, ROSE PALACE DECORATION EARRINGS IN 18K ROSE GOLD SET WITH 144 BRILLIANTCUT DIAMONDS, $ 20,700, PIAGET.COM | 3 LOEWE, GATE DUAL MINI LEATHER SHOULDER BAG. $1,990, MYTHERESA. COM | 4 NEEDLE & THREAD, RUFFLE-TRIM FLORAL-PRINT MAXI DRESS, $561, FARFETCH.COM | 5 HERMES, ROBE LEGERE SCARF 90, ROSE HORTENSIA, $510, HERMES.COM

從春末直至夏季，正是玫瑰盛放的的季節，不同花色的玫瑰，蘊含著各種不同的寓意。從飽和濃豔的紅色，到淡

| 6 TIFFANY & CO., ROSE GOLD EAU DE PARFUM 1.7 OZ., TIFFANY.COM | 7 GUCCI, ROUGE À LÈVRES SATIN LIPSTICK, 25 GOLDIE RED, $45, FARFETCH.COM | 8 GIANVITO

雅嬌嫩的粉裸色系與米白，透過穿戴不同的玫瑰色，傳遞

ROSSI, CRUZ 60 LEATHER AND SUEDE SANDALS, $795,

您此刻的心情。

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8│

PHOTOS BY TIFFANY & CO., PUBLIC DOMAIN, HERMES, PIAGET, FARFETCH, AND MYTHERESA.

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Elite Lifestyle Magazine is a leading luxury magazine, published in Chinese and English. At Elite, we celebrate the beauty, wisdom, and values of Eastern and Western traditions. We seek to uplift and inspire our readers in their pursuit of a life of fulfillment. 訂閱者資料 Subscriber Info

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ELITE BEAUTY

Let It Sh ine ! How to have beautiful, healthy hair 閃耀吧！如何養出一頭亮麗秀髮 By Ida Pink

hiny hair is typically a sign of healthy hair, and healthy-looking hair tends to give us that extra wow factor that boosts our confidence. However, many of us struggle with dull, lackluster hair—with dryness, rough texture, frizziness, and a lack of body and shine. What may be causing these problems? Hair dullness can develop for many reasons, such as lack of moisture, stress, hormonal changes, nutrient deficiency, pollution, harsh chemicals, and the wrong hair care products. However, many experts believe the main culprits are the minerals in hard water, product buildup, and excessive heat styling. Here are some simple tips to help you get healthy, shiny hair.

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亮麗的秀髮通常是健康頭髮的象徵，看起來健康的頭髮也往往能讓人眼睛一亮，增強個人自信。然而，有不少人因為髮色暗沉、缺乏生氣而困擾著，這些問題包括頭髮乾燥、粗糙、毛躁、缺乏豐厚感與光澤，而更令人煩惱的是，不知道這些狀況是什麼原因造成的。所以到底是什麼原因，讓頭髮失去了光澤與活力？造成髮色暗淡有很多原因，像是缺乏水分、壓力、荷爾蒙改變、缺少營養、汙染、使用太過刺激的化學製品，或是使用錯誤的頭髮保養品等。不過，也有很多專家認為，硬水中的礦物質、沒有洗淨的造型品殘留，和過度使用高溫吹整頭髮，是幾個主要的罪魁禍首。本文提供一些簡單步驟和技巧，幫您維繫秀髮的健康。

CHOOSE THE RIGHT PRODUCTS

如何選擇洗、護髮相關產品？

• Shampoos and Conditioners: Choose a shampoo based on your hair texture. Select a conditioner based on the length of your hair and its level of processing. For example, fine, long, processed hair typically needs a lighter shampoo and a heavier conditioner. Choose a shampoo and conditioner from the same line, as they have similar formulations and are made for a specific hair type and purpose. Styling products should also complement your hair texture. For example, heavy, oil-based serums can make fine hair look dirty and dull, while lighter ones are not smoothing enough for coarse hair. Use shampoos that are free of sulfates and silicone. These ingredients are often included in shampoos because they create a rich lather and a squeaky-clean feel, but with frequent use, they dry out hair and create product buildup.

• 選擇正確合適的髮品：根據自己的髮型，使用合適的洗

髮精與護髮乳，洗髮精應該要依照髮質去選擇，而護髮素則需根據頭髮長度和染燙程度挑選。舉例來說，經過染燙、偏細軟的長髮，通常需要較溫和的洗髮精和能深度修護的護髮乳，還有，選擇同品牌、同系列的洗髮精和護髮素，因為它們使用相近的配方，而且針對特定髮質與功能製造。另一方面，造型產品應該要與您的髮質互補，才是正確選擇，如果細軟髮使用以油為基底、質地厚重的護髮精華，會讓頭髮看起來沒有光澤，甚至髒髒的，而粗硬髮若使用了質地偏輕盈的產品，則無法保持柔順。另外需注意避開硫酸鹽、矽靈，這些成分通常會被添加在洗髮精中：硫酸鹽可以產生大量泡沫，有強力的洗淨效果；矽靈則能夠讓頭髮有滑順感。但是若經常使用含有以上成分的產品，會造成頭髮乾燥和造型品殘留，因此最好使用無添加上述成分的洗髮精。 • 夜間護理與結構修護：改善頭髮健康、增加光澤度的

• Overnight Treatments and Bond Repair: Another way to increase hair health and shine is to use overnight hair treatments. It is important to use a mask suitable for your hair, as hair needs depend on your specific hair type and issues; otherwise, the treatment could aggravate the problem. Another excellent way to improve overall hair health and shine, especially if you have split ends, brittle and dry tips, dull color, and frizz, is to incorporate bond-repair hair products into your routine, as they are designed to repair broken bonds in the hair, restore smoothness and shine, control frizz, and do overall damage repair. A great choice is Olaplex (olaplex.com), which has a complete bond-repair line consisting of shampoos, conditioners, serums, leave-in treatments, overnight treatments, shine oils, and more.

另一個方法是使用夜間護理髮膜。每個人的髮質與希望改善的問題都不同，因此選用適合自己的髮膜是很重要的，否則，您用的護理產品不但不能幫助改善髮質，還可能使問題更加嚴重。除了夜間使用髮膜護理外，還有另一妙方，特別是如果您有髮尾分岔、乾燥脆化、髮色暗淡，或是容易毛躁等問題，可以將強化修護的產品納入您的日常護理中，因為這種產品是針對修復受損的頭髮結構設計，讓頭髮恢復柔順與光澤，改善毛躁，可以全面修護，強韌髮質。Olaplex（olaplex. com）的系列產品推薦給各位，這個品牌有完整的結構修復系列，包括洗髮精、護髮素、精華、免沖洗護髮、夜間護理髮膜、護髮油等。

Powered by nature’s most potent botanicals and antioxidant-rich amla superberries, Alo’s 100% clean and moisture-restoring Shine Shampoo ($24) and Shine Conditioner ($24) add bounce and shine to hair without leaving buildup or stripping color. (aloyoga.com)

│11

GOOD HABITS FOR HEALTHY HAIR • Don't Over-Wash Your Hair: If your hair is dry, wash it once or twice a week, and apply a deep conditioning treatment for an hour before washing. For normal hair, wash it twice or three times per week. And for oily hair, wash it twice or three times per week or as needed. • Don't Condition the Roots: Conditioners are not meant for the scalp. Applying conditioner to your roots can make your hair look flat and dull and can make the scalp look oily. So only apply conditioner to your mid-lengths and ends (or start conditioning about 2 inches away from your scalp). • Rinse With Cold Water: Rinsing with cold water is an age-old trick to increase hair health and shine. Heat can damage the hair fiber, making the hair brittle, porous, and dry, without luster and shine. Experts typically recommend using warm or lukewarm (never hot) water to rinse out the shampoo and the conditioner, and then use cold water as the last rinse, as cold water closes the fiber scales, smoothing down the cuticles and making the hair look shinier. It also activates the microcirculation in the scalp, which helps promote hair growth and health. A cold water rinse also helps lock in moisture, preventing frizz.

如何改善日常洗、護髮？ • 避免過度清潔：避免過度清潔：如果您的髮質較乾燥，

• Be Gentle With Wet Hair: Wet hair is very fragile. When wet, the hair loses its elasticity, becomes stretchy, and easily breaks. Don't shampoo too harshly. Gently detangle while conditioning, and towel dry gently too. Don't rub with the towel. Instead, squeeze out the water and excess moisture. Use a specially designed hair-drying towel, such as Aquis (aquis.com), that uses unique fabrics and technology to quickly and gently absorb water from the hair. If you comb or brush through the hair while wet, do so very gently with a hair-detangling brush such as Tangle Teezer (tangleteezer.com), which is designed to minimize the breakage of wet hair.

建議一週洗1~2次頭，洗頭前，可以先厚敷一層護髮素，等待一小時後沖洗掉，再進行洗髮。如果是一般髮質的人，一週洗頭2~3次即可；而油性髮質的人，也是一週洗2~3次，視需要再增加次數。 • 護髮時避開髮根處：護髮產品不是設計給頭皮使用的，將護髮乳塗抹在髮根，會使頭髮看起來扁塌，頭皮油膩。所以，護髮產品只能用在頭髮的中段至髮尾（或是距離頭皮約5公分處再開始使用）。 • 洗頭搭配冷水：還有個改善髮質的古老訣竅，就是用冷水洗頭。高溫會傷害頭髮中的纖維，造成頭髮脆弱、角質層出現空隙，以及乾燥，失去光澤。專家特別建議，洗頭時用溫水或微溫（完全不熱）的水沖洗掉洗髮精和護髮乳，最後用冷水再沖一遍頭髮，因為冷水會關閉頭髮的角質層，撫平張開的毛鱗片，使頭髮看起來更加亮麗。冷水沖洗也可以促進頭皮的血液循環，對頭髮生長與健康有幫助，還能鎖住頭髮的水分，防止毛躁。

12│

• Use a Natural-Bristle Brush: Brushing is a great way to increase hair shine, as it spreads the scalp's natural oils throughout your hair. It also stimulates the scalp's blood f low, which is excellent for hair growth and health. Never use stiff plastic combs or brushes on wet hair, as they tear and rip the hair and increase the risk of hair breakage. (As mentioned, there are specially designed plastic brushes for detangling wet hair). Natural-bristle brushes are the most gentle, making the hair smooth and shiny. Boar bristles have been used in hair brushes for ages because they are gentle on the hair. • Minimize Heat Styling: Heat styling can wear away the hair's cuticles, making it dry, frizzy, and prone to breakage. Heat can cause the protective outer layer of hair strands to open, which leaves it vulnerable to damage. Try to air dry your hair as often as possible, and when using hair dryers or styling irons, use lower heat settings and protective styling products to reduce heat damage.

• 對待濕髮要溫柔：浸溼後的頭髮非常脆弱，潮溼的頭髮會失去彈性，變得容易被拉長，也容易斷裂。洗頭

Traditional Natural Treatments 居家天然養髮秘方 Vinegar Rinses

A longtime trick for shinier hair is to use apple cider vinegar rinses to remove styling product residue and buildup and make hair shiner. Use 2 to 3 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar per cup of water.

時，不要太過用力，護髮時也要注意輕柔地疏理打結處，洗好後要先用毛巾輕輕擦乾，別搓揉頭髮，把過多

Oil Massage

的水分擠掉即可。使用特別為乾髮設計的毛巾，像是吸

Oil massage is one of the best and oldest home remedies for shiny and healthy hair. Use olive oil, almond oil, or coconut oil. Warm the oil slightly before massaging the scalp with it. You can also leave it on for an hour or overnight. Use a gentle shampoo to wash away the oil.

水快乾毛巾Aquis（aquis.com），它獨特的布料與工藝，可以快速又輕柔地吸收頭髮上的水分。另外，在溼髮時梳理頭髮要非常的小心，可以搭配順髮梳，溼髮時使用這種梳子，可以將對頭髮的傷害減到最低，比如Tangle Teezer順髮梳（tangleteezer.com）。 • 使用天然鬃毛梳：梳頭髮是增加頭髮光澤度的好方法，

IMAGES BY FREEPIK AND SHUTTERSTOCK.

因為梳頭髮時，可以將頭皮自然分泌的油脂帶到髮絲上，也會刺激頭皮血液流動，對養護頭髮有非常好的效

用醋洗髮

果。不過千萬別在溼髮上用僵硬的塑膠梳，這樣會撕扯

這是個流傳已久，讓頭髮更有光澤的祕訣。

到頭髮，增加頭髮受損的風險（如前段所述，可用專門

使用蘋果醋洗頭，可以有效去除造型品殘

為溼髮疏理打結而設計的塑膠順髮梳）。使用天然鬃毛

留，提升頭髮光澤度。使用比例是一杯水加

梳，能夠以最溫和的方式，讓頭髮光亮又柔順。野豬鬃

入2~3湯匙的蘋果醋。

因為能溫柔接觸髮絲，所以長期被當作鬃毛梳的材料。用油按摩頭皮 • 將高溫造型次數減到最少：以高溫吹整、捲燙頭髮做造

要養出健康秀髮，用油按摩是最棒、也最古

型會磨損毛鱗片，造成頭髮乾枯、毛躁且易受損。高溫

老的居家療法之一。可以用橄欖油、杏仁油

會讓髮絲外圍的保護層張開，使頭髮變得脆弱。盡可能

或椰子油，將油稍微溫熱後，好好地按摩

試著讓頭髮自然風乾，使用吹風機或電棒捲時，將溫度

頭皮，也可以讓油停留在頭上一小時或敷

設定調低，並搭配抗熱防護的造型品，降低熱傷害。

上一晚，再用溫和的洗髮精將油脂洗掉。 │13

LONG-TERM MEASURES • Detox Hair Regularly: Hard-water minerals and product buildup are some of the biggest reasons for limp, dull, lifeless hair. To achieve healthy and radiant hair, choose detoxifying, antioxidant-rich shampoos that can help deep-cleanse hair and scalp to remove product buildup. Also, if your hair breaks easily during or after a color treatment, it might be because of excess metal inside the hair fiber, particularly copper (found in water due to pipe erosion), which builds up in your hair with each wash. When the metal meets the hair-coloring ingredients that activate the dye, it makes the hair very vulnerable to breaking during color and lightening treatments. To help avoid this, use a detoxifying and clarifying shampoo once a week. (Try charcoal shampoos and conditioners—they work wonders.)

• Manage Your Stress Levels: Stress can wreak havoc on the skin and hair, and emotional and physical stress can result in hair loss. To help manage stress levels, try yoga or meditation.

檢視其他可改善外因 • 為頭髮定期排毒：硬水中的礦物質和造型品殘留是造成頭髮扁塌、暗沉沒有活力的主要原因。為了擁有一頭健康、散發光彩的秀髮，挑選有深層淨化、富有抗氧化功能的洗髮精，可以深度清潔頭髮與頭皮，去除累積在頭髮上的造型產品。如果您染髮後或染髮過程中頭髮變得容易斷裂，可能是因為髮絲中含有過多的金屬，特別是銅（由於線管腐蝕所以存於水中），會因為每次洗頭漸漸累積在頭髮中。銅接觸到染劑成分時，會讓頭髮變得非常脆弱，在染髮或漂髮過程中頭髮就會容易斷裂。建議可以一週使用一次淨化洗髮精，以

• Install a Shower Filter: Installing a shower filter can work wonders for the overall health of your hair, as it prevents dullness, dryness, and breakage by removing harsh, and drying chemicals, metals, and minerals from the water. Since the filter also removes chlorine from the water, it will also help prevent blond hair from going brassy, and colored hair will maintain its color and shine longer.

避免這種情況發生（試試含有木炭成分的洗髮精和護髮產品，效果十分顯著）。 • 安裝沐浴淨水器：為家中的衛浴裝上沐浴淨水器，這對改善髮質狀況有奇蹟般的效果，因為淨水器會過濾掉對頭髮造成乾燥、刺激的化學物質、金屬與礦物質，能防止頭髮暗淡、乾燥受損。淨水器也會去除掉水中的氯，可以防止淺金色頭髮變成難看的黃銅色，染髮後的髮色也可以維持較久。

• Use Silk or Satin Pillowcases: Swap out cotton pillowcases for silk or satin, as cotton can be rough in texture and cause friction against your hair. Silk and satin are smooth in texture and don’t rub harshly against your hair, effectively reducing hair breakage due to friction.

• 使用絲綢或緞面的枕套：換掉棉質枕頭套，改用絲綢或緞面的布料吧！由於棉布質地較粗糙，會與頭髮產生摩擦，而絲綢與緞面布料的質地平滑，不會過度摩擦頭髮，能有效減少因摩擦造成的頭髮損傷。 • 攝取養髮食物：飲食影響頭髮健康，吃得越健康，頭髮

• Eat Hair-Healthy Foods: Diet affects hair health; the healthier you eat, the better your hair looks. The fatty acids in avocados, olives, and fish are especially great for skin and hair, and so are nuts, eggs, blueberries, and spinach. Vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and proteins are critical for hair health and growth, so make sure to eat lots of fruits, vegetables, and high-protein foods. Also make sure your iron levels are adequate, as iron deficiency can result in hair loss. 14│

看起來越漂亮。酪梨、橄欖和魚肉裡含有的脂肪酸對肌膚與秀髮特別有益，其他好的食物還有：堅果、雞蛋、藍莓和菠菜等。維生素、礦物質、胺基酸與蛋白質，是決定頭髮健康與生長的關鍵要素，所以要確保自己攝取足夠的蔬菜水果，以及富含蛋白質的食物，也要確認體內的鐵質含量夠高，因為缺鐵可能會造成掉髮。 • 自我調節壓力：壓力會為肌膚與頭髮帶來巨大損害，情緒壓力與生理壓力導致的落髮，會造成頭髮變稀疏。為了幫助自己管理壓力，可以試試做瑜伽或靜坐冥想。

Editor’s Picks

The Complete Hair Repair System 編輯精選：成功修復秀髮 British M’s Kombucha Shampoo 750 mL ($36) and Kombucha Mask 750 mL ($38) gently detox hair and scalp by removing environmental substances, pollutants, and product buildup. (britishm.us)

The Olaplex bond repair collection repairs, protects, and strengthens hair. The Complete Hair Repair System kit includes full sizes of these products: Nº.0 Intensive Bond Building Treatment, Nº.3 Hair Perfector, Nº.4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo, Nº.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner, Nº.6 Bond Smoother, Nº.7 Bonding Oil, Nº.8 Bond, Intense Moisture Mask, Nº.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum, Olaplex Train Caswe. ($240) For individual prices, visit the website. (olaplex.com) │15

ELITE BEAUTY

COMFORTABLE IN HER SKIN How Kate Somerville transcended debilitating eczema and helped others 戰勝傷疤自信美顏護膚品牌創辦人凱特 · 薩莫維爾的成功故事 By Rhonda Sciortion 16│

f you’ve seen Kate Somerville Cosmetics ads or have seen Kate in magazines or on TV, you would think that she’s always been beautiful and that her life is perfect and always has been. Kate says, “People usually expect me to be ‘silver spoon stuck-up.’” But that is the furthest thing from the truth. Kate grew up on a farm in Fresno, California, with a dad who was a high school football coach and wasn’t in touch with his emotions and a mother who suffered from mental illness and addiction. Actually, it was probably Kate who suffered the most. Kate’s dad was known as a great guy. He was beloved by the boys at the mostly black high school where he coached. He mentored those boys and helped them see that there was a good future for their lives. The single moms of the boys he coached were grateful because he helped them keep their sons in line. But at home, he was full of rage, so much so that Kate remembers that no doors were left standing in their house. Her dad was completely unable to cope with his wife’s erratic behaviors or to be there for her. Kate describes her mother as an “eccentric hippy.” She would go out drinking and partying and then fall into deep depression. When Kate was 9 years old, her mother left her with her dad. Occasionally her mother would call to tell Kate that she was going to commit suicide. It was an emotional roller coaster for Kate. Kate’s dad moved on, remarried, and started a new family—a family Kate didn’t fit into. She loved her dad and knew he was a good guy (everyone said he was), but she felt completely abandoned.

如果你看過凱特 · 薩莫維爾（Kate Somerville）的保養品廣告，或在雜誌、電視上見過她，可能會認為她總是如此美麗，或覺得她一直過著完美的人生。凱特說：「通常人們會覺得我『生來如此、自命不凡』。」而那卻是離事實最遙遠的想像。凱特於加州 Fresno 郡內的一座農場中長大，父親是高中足球教練，不擅長處理自己的情緒，母親則為心理疾病與酒精成癮問題所苦。在人們眼裡，凱特爸爸是個大好人，他任教的高中大多是黑人學生，備受球隊學生的喜愛。這些男孩多出自單親家庭，由母親獨自撫養。在他的指導下，男孩們不致誤入歧途，並對未來懷有希望，因此這些家長對其父親滿載感激之情。但在家裡，凱特爸爸卻時常無法控制自我情緒，以至於在凱特的記憶中，家中沒有一扇門是完好的。她的父親也完全無法應付妻子反覆無常的行為，或是給予其適切的陪伴。凱特形容母親是個「行為古怪的嬉皮」，她參加聚會狂歡，過量飲酒，然後陷入深度憂鬱中。凱特 9 歲時，母親離家，但是她不時會聯繫凱特，說自己打算要輕生，她的情緒就像雲霄飛車般起起落落。後來父親再婚，組建新家庭，開始了新的生活，而凱特卻始終無法適應新家庭。儘管她愛她的父親，也知道他是一個好人，周圍的人也都這麼說，但她卻感到被拋棄了。少女的苦難與轉機高中那幾年，凱特大多借住在朋友家，或是與親戚同住。與此同時，母親在她的生活裡來來去去，並為其高中歲月帶來混亂與痛苦。但讓她感到幸運的是，當時她男朋友的母親——威爾斯女士（Barbara Wells），有如她的人生導師，成為其重要的心靈支柱。另一位在凱特人生中的重要人物是她高中輔導員，泰利老師（Talley），凱特至今仍與泰利老師保持聯繫。泰利老師知道凱特過得並不容易，他察覺凱特在校

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

園裡的不適應與掙扎。每當凱特起蕁麻疹，溼疹復發時，

LIFE-CHANGING MENTORS She spent her high school years “couch surfing” with friends and living with a relative. Throughout her high school years, her mother would come in and out of her life, and every time she showed up, she brought chaos and pain with her. Fortunately for Kate, her boyfriend’s mother, Barbara Wells, became a strong mentor in her life, providing a sense of stability. Another important person in Kate’s life was her high school counselor, Mr. Talley. He knew that things were rough for her. He saw her struggling and not fitting in at school. He knew when Kate’s mother

他便知道，凱特又受其母親所擾。她的皮膚到處乾裂、滲著膿血。老師明白，凱特如何盡其所能地應對母親帶來的一切影響，卻同時要因皮膚問題，而在日常生活裡飽受屈辱。她無法過普通的高三生活，沒辦法參加畢業舞會、比賽，或享受任何再平常不過的學生活動。當時老師與她達成一項協議，如果她選擇就讀社區大學，就讓她提早從高中畢業，因為她已修足學分。而凱特做到了，大學期間，她以三份兼職自力更生。同時，男友的母親也一路相伴與鼓勵，這期間，她深刻體會到他人毫無保留的支持與信任自我的重要性。禍福相依化阻為力在成長過程中，凱特始終為嚴重的溼疹問題所擾，對肌

Left page: Kate Somerville with her husband and son.

膚的不自在感，她比誰都清楚，因此她不斷地尋求各種

_Courtesy of Kate Somerville

治療方法，盼能改善皮膚問題。這也點燃了她的熱情， │17

希望能夠協助他人解決相同的困擾。所以當一位皮膚科 was in her life because Kate would get hives and have a painful flareup of eczema from head to toe, with 醫生朋友建議她取得美容學位時，她毫不猶疑地報名了 dried, cracked, and oozing skin. Mr. Talley knew that 美容師學院。 Kate was working, trying to deal with her mother, and 凱特明白，皮膚疾病對人們自尊與自信心的打擊。 suffering through the humiliation of her skin prob藏不住的嚴重溼疹問題帶來的無助感，以及心理創傷， lems, so she wasn’t able to have a normal senior year. 何以嚴重影響身心靈，她都切身經歷。 She couldn’t go to the prom or to games or do any of 在美容學校期間，凱特突發奇想，她想與醫生一起 the things that other kids seemed to be enjoying. 工作，讓醫療服務更加完善。這種做法在當時並不普遍， Mr. Talley, with whom she is still in touch today, 因為大多數美容師是在水療中心等地方工作，提供臉部 made a deal with Kate. He would let her leave high 美容護理服務。於是她開始構想，並向一名整形外科醫 school early (she had enough credits to graduate) if 師提出營運計畫。畢業後不久，她於一間頂尖的整形外 she would go to college, which she did. Kate worked 科診所內開設其首間門診，明星客戶很快地愛上了凱特 three jobs to support herself while attending college. 提供的術後護理療程，並開始預約她的美容門診。 Her mentor, Barbara Wells, taught her the value of 2004 年，凱特在好萊塢的核心地段開業，這是她 unconditional support and believing in yourself. 的首間肌膚健康診所。她組建團隊，為不同年齡、種族 Because Kate had grown up with horrible eczema, 背景、肌膚種類的客戶，量身制定皮膚護理計畫，提供 she knew what it felt like to 客戶獨家的解決方案。其診 be uncomfortable in her own 所的好口碑，很快地傳遍了 skin. She had always looked 娛樂圈，不久後，連一流的 for remedies to solve her own 演藝名人們都慕名而來。 Kate knew better than skin issues, which sparked most that the trauma we her passion for helping oth心繫使命奮力前行 ers to do the same. So when experience in our lives 開業第一年，凱特的一位明 a friend who was a dermatol星客戶希望她能將診所的臉 takes a toll on our body, ogist suggested she get a de部護理配方罐裝化，好讓她 mind, and spirit. gree in esthetics, she enrolled 能夠隨身攜帶。就這樣，凱 in an esthetician school. 特的代表性產品誕生了—— ExfoliKate Intensive深層磨

REGAINING SELF-ESTEEM Kate knew intimately the impact of an ugly skin condition on one’s self-esteem and self-confidence. She had experienced the helpless feeling of her body’s public outcry of eczema. Kate knew better than most that the trauma we experience in our lives takes a toll on our body, mind, and spirit. While in school, Kate had the idea of working side by side with doctors to complement their services. This was unusual at the time, as most estheticians worked in spas, giving facials. Kate created and presented a business plan to a cosmetic surgeon, and shortly after graduation, she opened her first clinic inside one of the country’s top cosmetic-surgery offices. Celebrity clients quickly fell in love with Kate’s post-procedure care and began booking esthetics appointments with her. In 2004, Kate opened her first Skin Health Experts Clinic in the heart of Hollywood. She built a team to help create custom skin care protocols for people of 18│

砂護理。此項產品開發，對凱特而言意義重大，因為在那個年代，皮膚科產業中，護膚產品多由男性醫師負責開發。產品的成功，有如寫下新的歷史篇章。有一天，一名黑人少年來到診所，他戴著棒球帽，拉低帽簷，想遮住整張臉，他詢問接待人員，凱特是否能夠幫助他。凱特看了他一眼，便知道這是她所見過最嚴重的青春痘案例。那孩子告訴凱特，他沒有錢可以支付診療費用，但頑強的凱特決心治好這名年輕人，為少年展開一系列的療程，一週回診兩次，直到他澈底痊癒。後來，他成為診所的一分子，每個人都為他加油打氣。這名青年從一個無法抬頭與人眼神接觸的孩子，蛻變成一名帥氣的模特兒和 R&B 歌手。凱特已見識過無數次，在其診療下找回真正自我的案例。隨著凱特的事業逐年增長，她在業內聲望也跟著水漲船高。年僅 23 歲，凱特品牌登上紐約第五大道知名百貨亨利 · 本德爾（Henri Bendel）的展示櫥窗中。她回憶道：「那是個很誇張的櫥窗，上面寫著『凱特 · 薩莫維爾已抵達』，還有像是空服員的美麗模特兒。」她在活動發布日當天稍晚抵達紐約，當她看見自己的名字和產品展示在眼前，她以為自己會為此興奮不已，現實卻讓她備

every age, ethnicity, and skin type. They found solutions for those who couldn’t find solutions anywhere else. Word quickly spread through the entertainment industry. Soon, the world’s most famous and photographed faces were coming to Kate for her expertise. HELPING OTHERS BRINGS SUDDEN SUCCESS In that first year, one of Kate’s celebrity clients asked her to bottle her clinic’s facial treatment, so she could take it on location. Thus, Kate’s signature product, ExfoliKate Intensive, was born. This was huge because at the time, the skin care industry was dominated with products that were developed by physicians who were predominantly male. Kate has seen, time and again, the true personality of a person emerge as a result of her healing products, for example, the young, black teen who couldn’t make eye contact when he came into her clinic. He had a baseball cap pulled down low over his face, and he kept his face down as he told the receptionist that he was hoping to see if Kate would help him. This was the worst case of acne she had ever seen. The youth told her that he had no money to pay her, but Kate resolved to help this young man anyway. She began a healing process with the teenager, and he returned twice a week until he was totally transformed. He became part of the family. Everyone in the clinic cheered him on as they watched this young man transform from the kid who wouldn’t lift his head to make eye contact into a handsome model and an R&B singer. As Kate’s business grew, her national reputation as an esthetician and healer grew with it. At just 23 years old, Kate was featured in the front window of Henry Bendel’s on Fifth Avenue in New York. She said, “It was this insane window that said ‘Kate Somerville has landed.’ They had beautiful mannequins who looked like flight attendants.” She arrived in New York late on the day of the launch, and as this farm girl from Fresno pulled up in the taxi and saw the huge display that was her name and her products, she thought she would feel excited. Instead, she felt a huge pressure. She had arrived, but now she had to live up to the hype and maintain this national status. “My team and I had created this hype before we were actually a big business. I was treating a lot of famous people. I had a vision of the brand early on when I was 20 or 21. So here I am, a young girl with

Kate Somerville (R) and Jessica Radloff, the West Coast editor of Glamour magazine, speak to guests at a women’s empowerment event in 2019. _Rich Fury/Getty Images

感壓力。來到這座大城市，站在這舞臺上，她必須配合媒體的宣傳形象，來維持品牌地位。「我為很多知名人士治療，這讓我和團隊在公司實際規模還未擴展至如今規模前，就坐擁如此聲勢。早在 20 或 21 歲時，我對品牌便懷有願景，所以我來到這裡，從一個完全沒有商業背景，卻有遠大抱負的年輕女孩，成為一名美容師和治療師。這一切讓我覺得自己好像是一名手上戴美甲、腳踩夾腳拖就登上聖母峰的人。」她說。寬恕過往心懷感激在凱特事業準備起飛之際，她母親的狀況變得更加棘手，她生病、露宿街頭，也因使用毒品，牙齒都掉光了。凱特清楚記得，當時她的產品被選為奧斯卡禮袋贈品，送給典禮嘉賓，這是意義非凡的一刻。但與此同時，她仍得面對母親帶來的窘迫。在準備出席奧斯卡期間，她去了一趟安寧醫院與母親道別。那時，她才從幾位母親的高中友人那得知，母親小時候曾受繼父虐待。凱特終於明白，母親多年來的成癮問題，是為了治療自我傷痛，不幸的是，毒品是她唯一知道的方法。母親在情人節那天過世，凱特慶幸自己能夠在其過世前與她和解。彼時凱特已經結婚，育有一子。雖然她過著很棒的生活，不過對於父親，她仍是滿腔的怒火。為了釋放心中的憤怒，她會寫信給父親，再把信件燒毀。時過境遷，在其優秀丈夫的陪伴下，以及兩人悉心養育孩子的歲月中，凱特逐漸能在父親過世前，放下長年累積的埋怨。她告訴自己，父母大概已經盡其所能地做到最好了。凱特事後回想童年種種不堪，她認為自己從中獲得三件好事。第一，從小身在一個具多樣性的環境裡。母 │19

Katharine McPhee (L) and Kate Somerville at the Kate Somerville Clinic’s 15th anniversary party in 2019. _Tommaso Boddi/Getty Images

big aspirations, never been to business school. I was an esthetician and a healer. I felt like I was on Mount Everest with fake nails and flip-flops,” she said. FORGIVENESS AND GRATITUDE Just when Kate’s business was starting to take off, her mother was declining. She was living on the streets, was sick, and had lost her teeth due to drug use. Kate remembers the night that her products were going to be in the swag bags for attendees at the Oscars. She was on top of the world. But at the same time, she was processing wild emotions about her mother. While preparing to attend the Oscars, she went to the hospice to say goodbye to her mother. Kate had heard from some of her mother’s high school friends about what her mother had gone through as a young girl at the hands of her stepfather. Kate finally understood that her mother’s addictions were her attempt to alleviate her pain in the only way she knew. Kate was able to forgive her mother and make peace with her before she passed. Her mother died on Valentine’s Day. By this time, Kate was married and had a son. Although she had a great life, Kate still harbored a lot of anger toward her dad. She would write letters to him and then burn them in order to eliminate the anger. It was Kate’s marriage to her wonderful husband and their raising a son that led to Kate letting go of the anger toward her father before he passed away. She realized that her mother and father probably did the best they could with what they had. 20│

Kate says that three good things came out of her childhood. First, Kate was exposed to people of different backgrounds—her mother’s friends and the football players her dad coached and often brought to the house. As a result, Kate has always been comfortable with people who are different from her. Second, she learned to work hard. She knew that if she was going to be successful, it would be because she worked hard and earned it. She never expected success to fall into her lap. When asked how she healed from the chaos of her childhood, Kate said, “Emotionally I’ve worked really hard, going to Al-Anon, reading self-help books, and seeing a counselor on my journey to be better and trusting.” Third, Kate has tenacity. She doesn’t give up. That quality served her well when she began searching for the right combination of ingredients that would help her, and thousands of others, heal from serious skin conditions. Now her skin is beautiful and radiant, and she has helped tens of thousands of others. As a result, her products are in high-end retail stores and are available all over the world. She continues to maintain her clinic in Los Angeles, and has published a book titled Complexion Perfection. Kate is grateful for her success and for the people who have helped her, but her greatest reward is the people who tell her that she changed their life when she transformed their skin.

親將各式各樣的朋友帶回家，父親也時常邀請學生到家裡作客，因此她總能非常自在地與各種人相處。第二，她學到努力工作的重要。倘若能成功，那肯定是因為自己踏實努力，她從不期望不勞而獲。被問及面對童年的混亂與其所失去的一切，一路如何走來？她說，「情緒方面，我拚命的工作、參加戒酒無名會（Alcoholics Anonymous）、讀勵志書籍和尋求心理諮詢師，藉由這些幫助，我漸漸變好、變得值得信賴。」第三件好事，就是讓她成為一位堅強的人，決不輕言放棄。在尋找能夠解決皮膚問題所需的正確成分時，這份堅持不僅幫助了她，也讓她實現幫助他人的夢想，她從中自癒。如今她光彩照人，並且讓成千上萬受肌膚問題所擾的人們，生活因此改善。凱特對於她的成就，與一路走來幫助過她的人，心懷感恩。當有人流著淚對她說：「妳澈底改變了我的皮膚，也改變了我的人生。」她說，這就是最棒的回報。

Q&A 名人問答集

What’s the most significant way to help a young person?

Mentorship is everything, especially for women. The greatest mentor in my life was a woman named Barbara Wells. … She had unconditional love, but tough love. When I was 20, Barbara told me, “You have a choice of what you want your life to be. You can either dwell on your childhood and the past, or you can make your life what you want it to be.” Having grown up in a chaotic environment, I didn’t know what choices were available to me. Life felt out of control. Barbara let me know I had a choice and changed my life personally and professionally from that moment on.

您覺得什麼最能夠幫助到年輕人？指引方向很重要——特別是對女性來說！我人生中最棒的導師叫作芭芭拉 · 威爾斯，她是我男朋友的媽媽，她在我年輕時接納了我。她毫無保留的愛我，不過是嚴厲的愛。在我20歲時，芭芭拉告訴我：「妳可以選擇妳想要的人生。妳可以沉溺於童年的不幸與過去的悲傷裡，

What would you say to a young person starting out in business?

People told me my dreams were impossible. I didn’t take it personally. I found a way to defy the impossible. Find a way to defy what seems impossible for you. From a business perspective, it’s not to lose sight of what you’re trying to do. A business will take you over—the sales, the cash f low, etcetera. If you lose sight of why you’re doing it, it’s not fun anymore. For me, it’s important to connect with clients and stay close to what motivated me to start this—to heal people. Keep your focus on the mission of what you’re doing. Also, no matter what industry you’re interested in, have the courage to take the path. When there is a “no” or a slammed door, go the other way. Don’t give up. There are so many incredibly successful people who failed before they made it.

亦或是去打造自己想要的人生。」小時候，在混亂無序的環境中長大，我不知道我有什麼選擇，我覺得人生失去控制。但從那一刻開始，芭芭拉讓我明白了我有選擇的權利，所以我選擇了我的職業，進而改變人生。您會給準備創業的年輕人什麼樣的建議？大家都說，我的夢想是不可能的，不過我並沒有放在心上。我找到了對抗不可能的方法，找到一個自己的方式，在覺得辦不到時，就能與之對抗。從事業角度來說，別忘記你想嘗試去做的事情。經營一間公司，有太多事會占佔據你的腦袋，銷售量、現金流量等。一旦忘記了初衷，你將會失去動力。對我來說，與客戶接觸很重要，我想接近當初激發我創業的原因，因為我想要治癒需要幫助的人，專注於自己的使命。此外，無論你對哪個產業有興趣，就鼓起勇氣選擇那條路吧！如果前方看到「禁止通行」或吃了閉門羹，就找另一條路，繼續前進，不要放棄。看看那些非常成功

ILLUSTRATION BY SHUTTERSTOCK.

What would you say to women in business?

Delegation is key. Know what your strengths and weaknesses are and hire the people you need. I am an esthetician first and businesswoman second, so it’s important to have the right team in place. Also, take time for yourself. I love being a wife and a mother and a businesswoman, but with so much going on, it’s important to take time for yourself in order to be able to be your best. Small luxuries like relaxing in a beautiful bath with candles allows me to recharge, so I can continue to give to my family and my business.

的人，他們很多都是飽嘗失敗後才成功的。您會給經營公司的女性什麼樣的建議？分配工作是關鍵！知道自己的強項和弱點是什麼，並僱用妳需要的人來分擔。我首先是名美容師，其次才是企業家，有個適當的團隊很重要。另外，留點時間給自己吧！身為太太、母親和女企業家，我樂在其中，但是當事情一多，務必給自己留一點時間，讓妳做回最棒的自己。有時小小奢侈一下，點個蠟燭，好好享受泡澡時光，這能讓我充電、放鬆休息，如此一來，我便能夠繼續為家人與工作全力以赴。 │21

ELITE CULTURE

Gone Shopping How the Humble Paper Grocery Bag Was Invented 摺疊紙袋的出現憶美國女發明家瑪格麗特 · 奈特 By Andrew Benson Brown

f you’ve ever carried your groceries home in a paper bag, you can thank Margaret E. Knight. It is a name that you have almost certainly never heard of, and it’s associated with an invention that seems too obvious to notice. But the brown paper bag is one of many useful modern conveniences that, trivial as it may seem today, was by no means selfevident before its conception. The sweat and sacrifice its creator endured to bring this apparently simple object into our lives deserves our admiration. In a time when it was assumed that women were not smart enough to invent things, Margaret Knight showed a spirited resolve to realize her ingenuity and not allow others to take credit for her original work.

今天，我們習以為常的使用紙袋，裝著超市買來的商品，然而，這其實需要感謝一個人——瑪格麗特 · E · 奈特（Margaret E. Knight）。她是誰？您或許沒聽過。看似微不足道的咖啡色紙袋，只是如今眾多的便利產品之一。但其發明者，奈特女士當年卻是付出很大的心血與犧牲，才讓這個造型簡便的物品融入人們的生活中。她才華洋溢，卻身處於一個女性備受歧視的時代，儘管如此，她仍展現出堅定的信念與毅力，為美國發明史寫下精采的一頁。熱愛發明的少女與父親的工具箱奈特的小名叫瑪蒂，1838年，她出生後不久，父親便離開人世，自此過著貧困的日子。年幼的奈特在父親的遺物中，找到一只老舊的工具箱，因為這只舊箱子，小瑪蒂漸漸展現其天賦。

CURIOSITY AND A TOOLBOX Knight’sr father died not long after she was born in 1838, leaving her family in poverty. But he left 22│

她利用工具箱幫兄弟和鄰居孩子們製作玩具。後來她回憶起：「我因為自製風箏而小有名氣，而我做的雪橇，讓全鎮的男孩們羨慕又佩服呢！」她有一本筆記名為

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

something behind—an old toolbox—and from this container the natural aptitude of young “Mattie” blossomed. She used it to build toys for her brothers and local children, later recalling, “I was famous for my kites, and my sleds were the envy and admiration of all the boys in town.” In a notebook titled “My Inventions,” she started a lifelong habit of making drawings of her ideas. At the age of 12, she left school to work in a textile mill, where she suffered grueling hours under appalling conditions. One day, a thread snapped on a nearby machine, causing a steel-tipped shuttle (the part of the loom used to weave threads) to break loose. A girl who lived next door to Mattie was hit in the head and badly injured, an occurrence all too common in cotton mills at the time. Mattie sketched a solution to the problem in her notebook, which involved adding a metal guard to the box plate that would prevent a shuttle from flying off its track. She showed the drawing to a worker in a local machine shop, who passed the idea up the corporate ladder. Soon this “shuttle restraint” became a standard incorporation in looms across the nation. Mattie, however, received no compensation for her life-saving invention, since she was too young to register it. She continued to work in the mill until she was 18 and then dabbled in a variety of trades over the next 10 years—daguerreotype, photography, engraving, upholstery, and house repair, among others. But it was after the Civil War that she landed the job that changed her life: a machinist at the Columbia Paper Bag Company in Springfield, Massachusetts. While there, she received two-thirds of the wages of male employees who performed the same work. It was thought that women were not only less competent with machinery than men, but also wore “objectionable” clothing that took up too much room and posed a hazard to the workplace (according to one of the superintendents). During her employment at the company, she studied the machines and noted shortcomings in their efficiency, as well as problems with the then-current paper bag, which was shaped like an envelope and could neither stand upright nor hold much weight without tearing. Over the next two years, working in the basement of her living quarters, she proceeded to sketch improvements and make elementary models for her designs.

Top: To help their families make ends meet, many young girls left school to work in the textile mill. Bottom: At age 12, Martha Knight witnessed a shuttle fly off the loom and impale a fellow worker—a common accident at the mill. Thus, she invented a life-saving shuttle restraint that would become a standard fixture on looms across America. _courtesy of Library of Congress and Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

「我的發明」，畫下了她的各種構想，這也成為她畢生的習慣。 12 歲時，她離開學校去紡織廠上班，在惡劣的工作環境下連續工作數小時。有一天，工廠一部機器上的線突然斷掉，一個鋼製的梭子（織布機內用以編織的一部分）被甩出來，打到一位女孩的頭，女孩因此受了重傷。該事件並非個案，這在棉布工廠裡屢見不鮮。針對層出不窮的機器問題，瑪蒂在筆記本裡畫起草圖，設想解決方案。她的構想是在機器上加裝金屬的防護裝置，如此便可以防止梭子飛出。她把設計草圖拿給當地紡織機械工廠的一名工人看，那個人將此發想報給公司上層，不久後，這個「梭子阻擋裝置」成為全國上下織布機的標準配備。然而，瑪蒂卻沒有因她發明的救命裝置獲得任何報酬，因為她年紀太輕，沒有留下紀錄。奈特在紡織廠工作直到 18 歲。此後十年間，她涉獵了各種行業——最早的攝影術「銀版攝影」、攝影、雕刻、家具裝飾業，和房屋維修等。不過，直到南北戰爭後，她才找到了改變其人生的工作：成為一名機械師，任職於麻州春田市哥倫比亞紙袋公司（Columbia Paper Bag Company）。當時她的薪水只有同職位男性職員的三分之二。據其中一位公司負責人的發言，顯示出當時女性不只被認為不如男性能夠勝任機械操作，還被認為女性總是身穿「令人反感」的服裝，會占用過多空間，並在工作場所引起危險。 │23

When the time came to make a wooden prototype, Knight opened up her father’s old toolbox. She had kept it with her all these years, taking it with her everywhere she went, keeping his memory alive. Using only the rusty objects in this cherished, decaying heirloom, she built a device that could successfully cut, fold, and glue paper to make the flat-bottomed brown bags we know so well today. It was a machine that could do the work of 30 factory laborers in a fraction of the time. These new bags could stand upright and hold more weight than the current ones

於該公司任職期間，她研究了公司的機器，並發現效率不彰之處，也注意到紙袋的問題，那時的紙袋呈信封狀，不能站立，而且承重能力極低。接下來的兩年，她在住處的地下室進行設計，發想數個改進草案，還製作了簡易模型。要用木頭製作機器的原型時，奈特打開了父親留下的工具箱。這些年來，她始終保留著這個工具箱，關於父親的回憶也一直留在她心中。這是她鍾愛的，卻有點腐朽的傳家之寶。僅憑這幾樣生鏽的工具，她成功打造了一座可以順利裁切、摺疊、上膠固定的裝置，能把紙張變成現在大家再熟悉不過的平底咖啡色紙袋。該機器可在短時間內完成 30 名工廠人力的工作量。其製作出的新型紙袋，可以自行站立，且比現行的紙袋承載更多的重量。這項發明，可能會在該產業引起劇變——前提是奈特需取得必要的權利，好讓她販售此機具。一場改寫命運的訴訟奈特懷著獲取專利權的決心，去了波士頓的一間機械工廠，吩咐工廠按其木製原型，製作一件鐵造模型。模型完成後，她前往專利機構，卻發現有人在數天前提交了一份相同發明的設計圖。起初奈特覺得困惑，後來感到憤怒不已，她聽說一位名為Charles F. Annan 的男人頻繁造訪機械工廠，以虛假的名義研究奈特的機器原型，並冒充是自己的發明。她用僅存的積蓄僱用了律師，對該男子提出訴訟。當證人們出庭為奈特發明的優先性作證時，審判持續了兩週以上，在這期間，每天花費高達美金 100 元（以 1870 年的貨幣計算）。辯方試圖以女性次等為由提出反對，那位男子宣誓陳述：「奈特小姐不可能了解這個機械的複雜性。」奈特為了反駁這些指控，表明其立場，她告訴法官：「自能記事以來，我就或多或少在接觸機械了。」她描述了過去在製造業工作的種種，接著展示其手繪藍圖、設計初期的模型，還有私人日記，裡面詳實記錄了她兩年間的工作進度。攤在法官眼前的這些證據，足以說明一名女性確實發明了這座機器。辯方律師仍試圖阻撓奈特勝訴，辯稱奈特女士從機器的構想到其申請專利，時隔過長，這些過程應該僅需花上幾個月，而非數年。然而，專利機構的審查員將奈特的性別與條件待遇列入考慮，此外，加註說明奈特女士為該計畫完成的「關鍵人物」並且「品格勤勉」。最終，法庭對此做出對她有利的判決，並以此評論了結此案件——「安南先生將永遠引以為恥。」審判結束後，奈特引起了國際關注。有人出價五萬元美金要買下此專利權，而她回絕了。她與一位贊助

A patent drawing of Knight’s paper bag machine and its wooden model. _Courtesy of Pravel, Gambrell, Hewitt, Kirk, Kimball, and Dodge/National Museum of American History

24│

人合夥，成立了東方紙袋公司（Eastern Paper Bag Company）。公司合約包含支付給她的預付款，公司股份以及每個紙袋賺得的專利使用費。

being produced, potentially revolutionizing the industry—if only Knight could acquire the necessary rights to sell the machine. FIGHTING DISCRIMINATION Intent on obtaining a patent, she traveled to a machine shop in Boston and gave instructions to have an iron model built from her wooden prototype. After this was done, she headed to the patent office, only to discover that someone else had just submitted a design for the same invention a few days prior. Knight was baffled, then outraged. She learned that a man named Charles F. Annan had made frequent trips to the machine shop, studied Knight’s prototype under false pretenses, and passed it off as his own. She filed a lawsuit against Annan, using the last of her savings to hire a lawyer. During a trial that lasted more than two weeks, she spent $100 per day (in 1870 currency) as witnesses were brought out to testify to Knight’s priority of invention. The defense tried to build a case against her based on feminine inferiority, with Annan stating under oath that “Miss Knight could not possibly understand the mechanical complexities of the machine.” To counter these accusations, Knight took the stand, telling the court, “I have from my earliest recollection been connected in some way with machinery.” She described her history of employment in manufacturing before exhibiting her blueprints, early models of the design, and intimate diary entries detailing her work progress over a two-year span. Faced with proof that a woman had indeed invented the thing, the defense lawyer tried to pivot the case in Annan’s favor by arguing that too much time had passed in between Knight’s conception of the machine and its patent application. The process should have taken months, not years. The Patent Office examiners, however, took into account the hindrances of Knight’s circumstances and gender, adding that she had exerted a “proper diligence” of “most notable character” in seeing her project through. The judge ruled in her favor, then closed the case with the remark, “Mr. Annan shall be forever disgraced in history.” After the trial, Knight attracted international attention. She refused an offer of $50,000 to purchase the patent from her and partnered with a financial backer to open the Eastern Paper Bag Company.

Margaret Knight embodied the American dream of achieving material prosperity through creativity and diligence.

A 1912 newspaper cutout of Knight at work in her experiment room. _PD-US

譜寫美國女企業家故事接下來的四十年，奈特朝向鞋子、橡膠和汽車產業發展。她獲得的多項專利中，特別的是鞋底裁切機、「不會打滑」的輪胎、一款內燃機和一款被稱為「奈特靜音引擎」（Knight Silent Motor）的旋轉式引擎。還有其他發明，包括編號機、製作窗框的機器，以及一個「裙子保護裝置」。在奈特女士1914年過世時，擁有22項以她為名的專利，另外有65項發明也能歸功於她，而專利權則歸於其投資人與僱主所有。奈特享壽76歲，一份當地的訃文稱其為「女版愛迪生」。 1872 年，在接受報紙《Woman's Journal》的採訪中，奈特被問到，一名沒受過正規教育的婦女是如何發明出紙袋生產機的？她回答：「我只是貫徹個人本質，小時候我從不在乎一般女生常做的事，洋娃娃一點都不吸引我。……我想要的東西就只有大摺刀、手鑽和幾片木頭，朋友都被我嚇壞了。」她最後說道：「對於我辦到的事情，我並不感到驚訝；我只為不能得到像男生一樣好的機會感到遺憾。」 │25

Margaret Knight’s sole-cutting machine was patented in 1890 and can be used to manufacture all types of boots and shoes.

Included in the business agreement was an up-front payment to her, as well as royalties on each bag made and shares in the company’s stock.

An 1894 patent for a new and improved sewing machine reel.

在那個年代，女性扮演的角色往往與企業家沾不上邊，其他少數女性發明家大多申請的都是與家庭領域有關的專利，有些甚至會在專利文書上隱瞞自己的性別。而奈特以自己的名字，為製造產業作出貢獻。她的成功故事

LATER INVENTIONS AND LEGACY Over the next four decades, Knight expanded into the shoe, rubber, and automobile industries. She obtained patents for (among other things) a machine that cut shoe soles, tires that were “non-skiddable,” an internal combustion engine, and a rotary engine that was dubbed the “Knight Silent Motor.” Still other inventions included a numbering machine, a machine that made window sashes, and a “dress and skirt shield.” At the time of her death in 1914, she held 22 patents in her name, and she is credited with an additional 65 inventions under patents held by her investors and employers. After passing away at the age of 76, a local obituary called her the “woman Edison.” In an 1872 interview with Woman’s Journal, Knight was asked how a woman with no formal 26│

使她成為體現美國夢的首要幾位女性，透過創造力與勤奮不懈，實現了物質富裕的夢想。如果想讓孩子了解有關這位發明家的故事，以下提供幾本好書給父母：兩本以此為主題的兒童英文故事書《In the Bag!: Margaret Knight Wraps it Up》、《Marvelous Mattie: How Margaret E. Knight Became an Inventor 》。後者為繪本傳記，作者是兒童繪本大獎凱迪克獎（Caldecott Medal）得主艾莉 · 麥考莉（Emily Arnold McCully），這本書透過水彩畫講述了奈特的故事，書裡還有一些與奈特筆記本中相似的設計草圖。自從奈特為她的機器申請專利後，紙袋設計只有再經歷些許的改良，最明顯的部分就是現在的版本側邊多了個打褶，讓紙袋可以摺疊得更小巧，本質上並未有其他改變。奈特依然能一眼認出她的發明，在申請專利的 150 年後，她設計的紙袋仍然被廣泛使用。

IMAGES BY PUBLIC DOMAIN, GETTY IMAGES AND FREEPIK.

Margaret’s 1894 numbering machine allowed for the rapid stamping and printing of consecutive numbers.

education could have invented her paper-bag machine. In response, she cited her inborn disposition: “I was only following out nature. As a child I never cared for the things that girls usually do; dolls never had any charms for me. … The only things I wanted were a jackknife, a gimlet, and pieces of wood. My friends were horrified.” She concluded by saying, “I’m not surprised at what I’ve done; I’m only sorry I couldn’t have had as good a chance as a boy.” In a time when a woman’s role was not associated with entrepreneurship and when the small number of other female inventors out there were mostly submitting patents related to the domestic sphere (even then concealing their gender on the patent paperwork), Knight was contributing to the manufacturing industry under her own name. Her success story makes her one of the first women to embody the American dream of achieving material prosperity through creativity and diligence.

In addition to machines for industrial manufacturing, Margaret Knight patented her design for a window frame and sash in 1894.

Parents who are interested in teaching their children about this inventor have several resources at their disposal. Two excellent children’s books have been written on the subject: In the Bag!: Margaret Knight Wraps it Up, and Marvelous Mattie: How Margaret E. Knight Became an Inventor. The second of these illustrated biographies, by Caldecott Medal winner Emily Arnold McCully, tells Knight’s story through watercolors and includes panels of da Vinci-esque designs similar to those sketched in her famous notebook. The paper bag design has undergone a few improvements since Knight patented her machine. Most notably, today’s versions have pleated sides that make folding more compact. In essence, though, they remain the same, and Knight would still be able to recognize her invention that, over 150 years after it was patented, remains widely used everywhere. So the next time you go grocery shopping, give a thought to the inventor Margaret Knight. │27

In 2017, Alyssa Zheng left everything behind to pursue a new life and career in North America.

ELITE PROFILE

CONSCIENCE COURAGE

Actress Alyssa Zheng’s mission to shed light on the darkest places 找回演藝夢 ——專訪華裔女演員鄭雪菲

English by Jennifer Tseng | Chinese by Cora Wang Pictures courtesy of New Century Films

tanding alone at the busy airport terminal amid the crowd of bustling travelers, actress Alyssa Zheng was on the brink of leaving behind everything she knew. She was still in the bloom of youth, and no one could have guessed that she had endured years of torment at the hands of the Chinese Communist Party (CCP). In fact, even as Alyssa flew toward freedom, her mother was in jail being persecuted for her faith. For years, the young actress had dreamed of a place where she could converse with like-minded people and strive toward a shared goal. Perhaps New Century Films—a company based in North America and dedicated to bringing awareness to societal issues—would be just the place. Alyssa knew she had a big mission to fulfill.

「身為一名演員，說著華語，來到海外能有什麼發展？」華語演員鄭雪菲，回想起當年還在中國演藝圈的自己。數年前，僅僅憑藉著一封電子郵件，她買了單程機票飛往異鄉，如今，她為這一切的改變找到了答案，並堅信這就是她的演藝之路。鄭雪菲來自中國雲南，畢業於中國頂尖的上海戲劇學院。畢業後，作為新銳演員，接演數部當紅的偶像劇，在旁人眼裡前途似錦的演藝路上，她卻選擇在 2017 年出走海外，離開她所熟悉的一切，轉而加入位於加拿大的影視基地——新世紀影視。在此之前，她長年經受著來自中國政府的威脅，一切只因其母親的信仰。儘管如此，來到海外的她，選擇用真名實姓演出各項獨立製作獲獎作品。這些作品都是為了訴說一個真相，那些正在中國發生，卻無法被講述的故事。在言論被嚴格審查的時局之下，她無所畏懼——「當我有勇氣站出來做這件事，或決定做這件事時，我就覺得，那還恐懼什麼？」她昂首走過數個國際電影節的紅地毯，向全球觀眾分享一

A LEAP OF FAITH “I knew I had to use my real name to speak out about the violence in China. For sure, there’s a risk of the CCP tracking me down, but my name is my identity,” she said. “I have lived almost my entire life under the communist regime’s harassment. It’ll

部部在中國被噤聲的作品。悲劇降臨鄭雪菲的母親，在1998年因各種頑疾而體弱不堪，因學煉了法輪大法後，宛若重獲新生。法輪大法是一種佛家上乘修煉大法，以「真、善、忍」為最高原 │29

be delusional to think that I can end their surveillance by changing my name. Since I’ve decided to speak out, I will not be afraid.” Nevertheless, at an intersection in her life in 2017 and boarding a plane bound for Canada, Alyssa had no idea what awaited her at the end of the journey. “I was very anxious. Canada was a foreign land, and I didn’t know anybody there. All I had was one email from my contact person—we’d never even spoken on the phone. I just had to trust in fate and find the courage to face the unknown.”

則作為指導。 1992年其在中國東北地區開傳，短短數年間，學煉人數多達上億，鄭雪菲的母親就是其中一位，而她從小就見證了母親因為信仰而轉變的奇蹟。然而，在1999年7月20日，中國共產黨下令迫害法輪大法修煉者後，母親就成為政府「重點關注」的對象，連日常起居都受到監控。她回想起從上海戲劇學院畢業的那一年，母親滿心歡喜地承諾她會出席其畢業式，不料，典禮當日，母親又因受到公安監控，無法踏出家門一步。「那一刻我心裡就特別難受——為什麼別人的家人都能來參加？為什麼我要去經歷這些？」回想起當年，仍感到無奈。 2016 年春季，當時鄭雪菲正在上海工作，卻接到一通來自派出所的電話，電話那一頭表示：「妳媽媽被

A MORAL DILEMMA Alyssa and her mother practice Falun Dafa (also known as Falun Gong)—a peaceful spiritual meditation practice in the Buddhist tradition. Its teachings have inspired followers all over the world to lead fulfilling lives by following the principles of truthfulness, compassion, and tolerance. Falun Dafa’s massive popularity and rapid growth soon outnumbered CCP members. Fearing that people would choose the traditional principles taught by Falun Dafa and turn away from communism, in July 1999, the regime initiated a violent persecution to eradicate Falun Dafa. In the years since, millions of practitioners have been rounded up, imprisoned, tortured, and killed. For more than two decades, these practitioners have lived in constant fear, never knowing when the police might come to their door. While growing up, Alyssa frequently asked herself, “Why me? Why am I forced to endure this pain?” Alyssa’s mother had always promised to attend her college graduation. Yet when that much-anticipated day arrived, her mother was under house arrest. Alyssa said that she broke down while standing onstage: “All my classmates had their parents there. The only one missing was my mother.” Then, things took a turn for the worse. In the spring of 2016, Alyssa received a phone call from the police informing her that her mother had been arrested for handing out pamphlets raising awareness about the persecution of Falun Dafa. Waiting outside the prison to deliver clothes and necessities to her mother, Alyssa noted the others around her. “They were all family members of people serving time for drug use, prostitution, and robbery. … How does my mother fit in here?” Alyssa said. 30│

抓了」，當下她以為這是詐騙電話，但在幾句來回對話後，她才知道母親真的被抓走了，而原因竟是「在公共場合散發宣傳法輪功資料」。鄭雪菲無法理解如此「罪狀」並追問，卻得不到一個合理的解釋。她趕回雲南老家，並前往看守所為母親送去換洗衣物。當時，她環顧四周，「跟我一起排隊的那些人，犯了吸毒、嫖娼、盜竊，都是這樣的罪，我就想：『我媽媽這麼樣好的人，為什麼要來到這？而我今天為什麼要站在這裡？』」突如其來的一切讓她措手不及，看著母親在看守所內簽收其送去衣物的親筆字跡，讓她再也忍不住淚水。抉擇時刻鄭雪菲如今回想，仍記得當初煎熬的過程——「從小扶養我長大的一個人，她的好壞，難道我不清楚嗎？我要通過中共去告訴我：你媽媽是好人？你媽媽是壞人？」她透過內心的詰問，反覆琢磨發生在自己身上的一切。身邊的親人都告訴她，何不勸母親妥協中共期望的說詞，說謊也能換上正常生活。但她無法昧著良心：「為什麼要去騙呢？人不應該是善良的嗎？不應該遵從自己內心的正義嗎？」然而，親友無不對她說，「你太傻了！」她反覆思索，到底什麼才是正義？後來明白，母親為真理而堅持，才是真正的正義。「那一刻我就覺得我媽媽是對的，她的選擇也是對的。」同一年，位於加拿大的影視團隊已對鄭雪菲發出邀約，希望她能加入他們的團隊。而母親遭受中共非法關押的一切過程裡，她清楚如此事件仍大面積地在中國境內發生。有無理蠻橫的公安與政府官員，但也有為正義聲援的律師，與無數的善良學員不計代價地在幫助彼此。「連我家人都要躲著的時候，竟然還有這樣的一群人……」她深受觸動。就連當時她在上海工作時，老闆知悉其家中情況，都對她說：「妳媽媽真了不起，我真佩服她！」然而，母親被迫關押，已成為事實，仍擁有人身自由的她開始思考：「我能做些什麼呢？」後來她想到，也許演員一職，能帶來些許改變。「我想，通過表演將我經歷或所看到的這些……讓更多的人能夠了解到，現在

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“It was unreal. She was considered evil simply because she disagreed with the communist ideology.” Unable to cope with the constant threats, Alyssa’s family pressured her to persuade her mother to renounce Falun Dafa—even just as a lie to pacify the police. The CCP had insisted that this was the only way for everyone’s life to go back to normal. “I thought about it long and hard. Should I stand up for what I know is right or go against my conscience and concede to the expectations of society?” Though she struggled, Alyssa knew deep in her heart that she must not cave in.

當下中國這環境中，正在發生的事。就有這樣一個願望跟想法。」這堅定了她出走海外的決心。演員本色「怎麼樣才算是一名好演員？」鄭雪菲始終捫心自問。回想當初在大學就讀表演專業時，她滿腔熱血：「我是很熱愛表演的。表演的時候，讓我覺得很純粹，就是自己與自己對話，對於更高境界，那種更美好境界的追求與嚮往。」以演戲為業，她彷彿有著燃燒不完的熱情，她甚至想，「這一輩子我都要從事這個行業。」然事與願違，她以優秀的學業成績畢業後，進入演藝圈，見識無數為了搶奪「好角色」的不擇手段，各種利益交換與亂

HOPE FOR THE FUTURE Thankfully, even in the bleakest days, Alyssa found hope. “I think your mother is very impressive. I have so much respect for her,” one of Alyssa’s colleagues said after quietly pulling her aside. A human rights lawyer and other local Falun Dafa practitioners also contacted Alyssa to offer their comfort and support. “I couldn’t believe it! At a time when even my family shrank away, this group of strangers was willing to put their lives at risk to help me. That’s when I realized that I’m not alone. My mother’s imprisonment is not an isolated scenario; it is happening all over the country to many people.” “This persecution is ongoing every second, but most Chinese citizens are kept in the dark. That’s a shock to me. It made me feel so small.” At that moment, Alyssa made a decision: “I needed to get out. I wanted to use my profession and everything I have to portray the story of these practitioners. I will raise awareness on a global scale to let people know what is going on in China.” In the years since, Alyssa has put down roots in Canada and established herself as an indelible part of New Century Films. On the set of the 2022 minifilm Trial of Justice, Alyssa took another step forward in fulfilling her mission. “There was a courtroom scene, and my lines were: ‘For the first time in China, we are sentencing the crimes of those who have persecuted Falun Gong.’ As I spoke those lines, I felt a shock course through my body. I believed with every fiber of my being that, very soon, this will be a reality,” Alyssa said. “I felt the spirits of all the practitioners who had passed away looking on that day. They’re waiting too—waiting for the day when justice will be served.” 32│

象。為此，她陷入低潮，甚至不願再向她人提起自己是一名演員。說到此，鄭雪菲不由得感慨加入新世紀影視，對其演藝生涯的重大意義。她發現，影視團隊裡的每一位成員，心態都非常純淨，專一致志地想把一件事做好。新世紀影視團隊自成立五年以來，累計已獲得百餘項國際電影節獎項。而多部作品都基於真實事件，「它不是編造出來的，或是藝術作品中的創作，它是真實發生的」，鄭雪菲介紹道，許多故事都是在中國不能被講述的真相，演出這些作品的過程裡，她逐漸地找回當初熱愛演戲的自己，以及這背後更加深遠的意義。

Alyssa received the 2022 Best Actress Award at the Toronto International NollyWood Film Festival for her role in Redemption.

TRUE ARTISTRY As Alyssa came into her own as a confident actress, two questions persisted in her mind: “What is an actor?” and “What qualities should a good actor have?” While in college in China, Alyssa loved acting. It allowed her to transcend reality and get in touch with her inner self—an exhilarating search for perfection. “I wanted to do this for the rest of my life,” she said. However, after Alyssa entered China’s entertainment industry, those beautiful visions were shattered. To stay competitive in an oversaturated industry, young actors are frequently forced into uncomfortable positions where they’re made to bribe and bootlick their way to fame. “It was appalling. For a long time, I was embarrassed to introduce myself as an actress,” Alyssa said. “I believe as actors, we should be responsible for our actions. We’re public figures facing a wide audience. If our behavior and the work we produce cannot inf luence others in a positive light, that’s a terrible thing.” From the teachings of great masters, Alyssa recalled reading that “the quality of an artist’s work is a reflection of his ethics and values.” So Alyssa believed that to become a successful artist, she must refine not just her technical skills but her character as well. BEAUTY TO THE PURE OF HEART Even as Alyssa continued to garner success in the film industry in North America, she frequently reflected on the traditional view of an artist’s work as a reminder to patiently hone her art. “The only way to portray true inner beauty is if I become pure and compassionate myself. When my heart was full of hate, no matter how hard I tried, my performance looked disingenuous,” she said. “That was no easy feat. For a long time, I was trapped in an endless cycle of pain. I hated the Chinese Communist Party, the persecution, and the whole world.” Fortunately, Alyssa found strength and courage in the teachings of Falun Dafa. “I knew I couldn’t let hatred beat me down. I must actively accept and face every challenge ahead with optimism. Everyone endures hardships in life. That itself is a gift from the heavens—it serves to propel us toward a greater future.” No matter how hard the journey, Alyssa never gave up. Slowly, her seeds of hard work germinated

Alyssa at the 2022 Burbank International Film Festival Gala, where she was recognized for her role in Silver Screen Dreams.

and blossomed. In 2022, for her role in Silver Screen Dreams, Alyssa was awarded Honorable Mention for Best Lead Actress at the American Golden Picture International Film Festival. In the same year, at the Toronto International NollyWood Film Festival, she won the prestigious Best Actress Award for Redemption. There were always small miracles and encouragement showing up at every bend of the road—proof that there is hope and beauty everywhere for those who know where to look. One day, as she filmed a beach scene, Alyssa’s camera crew casually mentioned that it would be stunning if all the seagulls dotting the beach chose that exact moment to take flight. “3,2,1 Action!” Suddenly, as if they understood, the seabirds flapped their wings in unison and took off into the sunset. 她相信演員不僅是「演戲」，更需要提升自我修養，「作為一個藝人、演員，一個藝術工作者，就應該要有這樣一個良好品德，因為你要對你的言行負責任。」不僅是在螢幕前負責，更需要在日常生活裡端正品行。過去的作品多是懲惡揚善，但近年來越來越多作品，都讓好人陷於無盡的苦難之中，她認為影視作品必須身兼重任，導正視聽，帶給觀眾希望與光明，她相信儘管作品裡反映出現實的黑暗，也能帶給人們正面且良善信息，這也是她和其影視團隊堅守的價值。回想來到海外的這六年期間，儘管沒有半個親人在此，但卻帶給她人生許多意想不到的收穫，她說：「人生當中遇到的一切風浪，其實都是在成就自己的過程。」她懷抱著感激之情，期許能繼續在影視產業裡，帶來更多、更好的作品。 │33

ELITE CULTURE

Timeless Elegance Contemporary pageant rediscovers ancient beauty

大唐后範永垂當代選美再探傳統之美 Chinese by Ann Lin Translated by Wandi Zhou

entle” and “graceful.” Those are the words used to describe an ideal woman in “Fishhawk,” the first poem in the Classic of Poetry, China’s oldest poetry anthology. For nearly the entirety of China’s 5,000 years of history, gentle and graceful have been the definitive qualities of a beautiful woman. A beautiful woman possesses more than just an alluring figure and a beautiful face. An elegant, composed, and virtuous nature and inner bearing are what truly makes a woman attractive. Since ancient times, how many women have been praised for possessing both striking beauty and remarkable virtue and talent? One of them is Empress Zhangsun, the wife of Emperor Taizong of the Tang Dynasty. She left her mark in Chinese history as one of the most virtuous empresses.

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詩曰：「窈窕淑女，君子好逑。」（《詩經．國風．周南．關雎》）「窈」是深遠，「窕」指深邃，位列《詩經》之首的詩歌〈關雎〉，以「窈窕」比喻女子幽靜美好的樣子，道出了中華五千年來對美好女子的想像與定義。女子之美，不僅在於其婀娜的體態與閉月羞花的容貌，那溫婉如玉、端莊賢淑的品性與儀態，更由內而外地展現了女性特有的魅力。古往今來，多少女子既是傾國傾城的佳人，也是品德與才華兼備的傳奇人物，其中，享有「千古賢后」美名的唐太宗之妻——長孫皇后，其一生的風範，更在中華五千年的歷史上留下一筆珍貴無比的印記，絢爛而耀眼。克己復禮忠信賢良長孫皇后，十三歲荳蔻年華之際便嫁給年方十七歲的李世民為妻。《左傳》曰：「守命共時之謂信。」是既經了承諾，必定終生屢踐之。他們生死相隨、患難與共，共同見證大唐開國的風風雨雨。李世民征戰南北，她隨侍在側；

SELF-DISCIPLINED AND VIRTUOUS Empress Zhangsun married Emperor Taizong, then Prince Li Shimin, when she was 13 and he was 17. They stood by each other in times of turmoil, and together witnessed the ups and downs of the early Tang Dynasty. When Li Shimin went on military campaigns in the north and south, the then Princess Zhangsun was by his side. In the midst of life-threatening rivalry with his brothers, the sons of Emperor Gaozu, Li Shimin staged a coup d’etat. The night before the event, rival troops loomed outside the city gates like oppressive black clouds, and the tension in the air was as tight as a drawn bowstring. Everyone in the prince’s mansion was uneasy, yet Lady Zhangsun walked among the armored soldiers, displaying a woman’s unique capability of embodying the duality of grace and strength at the same time. Princess Zhangsun encouraged the soldiers, calmed their hearts, and performed the traditional wine ceremony to see them off. Li Shimin’s army was immediately emboldened. They were a force to be reckoned with, and Li Shimin was victorious. Nine years into the reign of Emperor Gaozu, the Tang Dynasty’s founder and Li Shimin’s father, Li Shimin ascended to the throne and became Emperor Taizong. Thirteen days later, Princess Zhangsun was made empress. The benevolent new emperor and his virtuous empress brought out the best qualities in one another. Empress Zhangsun enjoyed reading; she could even be found with a scroll in her hand when she was getting dressed or when she was at her dressing table. This did not change after she became empress. Oftentimes, she would pore over books and discuss historical and current matters with her husband. Yet when the emperor asked for her opinion on political matters, the empress would say “A hen crowing at dawn would indicate imbalance within the family. As a woman, how dare I desire to get involved in political matters?” Reasoning that it was not her

政變之際，黑雲壓城城欲摧，情勢劍拔弩張，王府上下人心躁動不安，只見長孫氏以一介女流之姿，穿行在虎背熊腰的將士行列之中，展現女性獨有的柔性與堅韌，慰勉將士、安撫人心，替他們灑酒壯行，秦王軍頓時士氣大振、勢如破竹，最終讓李世民贏得了天下。武德九年，李世民登基十三天後，長孫氏被冊封為皇后，從此明君賢后，交相輝映。長孫氏喜愛看書籍圖傳，就連在梳妝打扮也手不釋卷，居后位而不改其色，經常與丈夫共執書卷，談古論今。然而，當太宗詢問她對時政的意見，她都以「牝雞之晨，惟家之索。妾以婦人，豈敢豫聞政事？」為由，拒絕干涉朝政。長孫皇后的兄長長孫無忌與太宗為布衣之交，又為輔佐元勛，戰功卓著，太宗多次想擢升他為宰相，長孫皇后總是堅決反對。她認為，自己已貴為皇后，家族貴寵已極，以西漢呂雉、霍光家族為鑒，不應再讓家族子弟掌握朝廷重權。然而，太宗沒有採納皇后的諍諫，任命長孫無忌為尚書右僕射兼吏部尚書、左武侯大將軍，長孫皇后轉而勸兄長讓位避嫌，於是長孫無忌向太宗再三請辭，最後朝廷改授榮譽銜，長孫皇后才展顏悅色，如釋重負。長孫皇后對外戚之事總是以史為鑒，直至臨終前，仍然囑託丈夫不要讓外戚位居顯要。其著有《女則》三十卷，主要內容為收錄古代婦女、歷代后妃的事蹟，並加上自己的評註，她生前不希望太宗看到，因為她撰寫的目的，是為了約束自我，不要越權譖亂。死後，宮人把其書奉給太宗，看著書上娟秀的字跡，太宗悲慟不已：「皇后此書，足可垂於後代！」並下令將它印刷發行，使《女則》成為歷史上最早的雕版印刷書。雎鳩之德居仁尤義對於治理後宮，長孫皇后自有一套哲學，她不驕矜，不爭寵，嬪妃得病，她主動將自己的藥物贈予對方；嬪妃生子難產而亡，她便將嬰孩視如己出，撫養成人。對待宮人，也不因其身分低微，便輕視他們的安危與性命，從不無故令人有冤，若後廷之人因小事觸怒龍顏，長孫皇后總是能以智慧化解危機。有次太宗心愛的駿馬無故暴死，太宗遷怒於養馬的宮人，欲殺懲之。長孫皇后知情後，並未直接替宮人求情，而是向太宗說了一個故事：「春秋時期，齊景公因喜愛的馬死了，要殺養馬人，

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唐周昉簪花仕女圖卷 Court Ladies Adorning Their Hair With Flowers by Zhou Fang. Color on silk. Tang Dynasty

paintings of aristocratic women offer insights into the social customs and traditional ideals of feminine beauty. _PD-US │37

place, Empress Zhangsun declined to involve herself in political affairs. The empress’s older brother, Zhangsun Wuji, was an advisor and close friend to Li Shimin before he was made crown prince. Zhangsun Wuji played an important role in the founding of the dynasty and had many

老臣晏子便順勢指責養馬人：『你犯了三宗罪：罪一，好好的馬被你養死了；罪二，害得國君不仁，為馬而殺人；罪三，我國在諸侯國中將受到嘲笑。』晏子說完時，旁邊的齊景公自覺過失，立刻釋放了養馬人。」說完，長孫皇后便問熟讀史書的太宗：「陛下難道忘了這個故事了嗎？」太宗隨即會意，養馬宮人也因此得以免罪。後來，太宗曾針對此事對大臣房玄齡說：「皇后總能用各種事物啟發影響我，對我大有幫助。」貞觀八年，長孫皇后隨太宗巡幸九成宮，回程路上受了風寒，引發舊日痼疾，病情日漸加重。太子請求大赦囚徒，替皇后祈福祛疾，皇后堅決反對：「死生有命，非人力所能左右。若修福可以延壽，我向來不做惡事；若行善無效，那求福何用？赦免囚徒是國家大事，切勿因我一婦人而亂天下之法度。」長孫皇后深明大義，終生不為一己之私而影響國家大事，她認為，自身無功於社稷，臨終前託囑丈夫死後薄葬，不起墳塋。長孫皇后駕崩時，年僅三十六。太宗為皇后親自撰寫碑文，向侍臣傾訴喪偶之痛，他說：「我豈不知道皇后之崩是天命而不得不割情？只是想到失去了賢妻良佐，我還是難以克制悲傷。」太宗思妻之情溢於言表，他終生不再封后，離世時與長孫氏合葬於昭陵。流芳千古德惠天下縱觀長孫皇后的一生，兢兢業業。與太宗少年結髮，生死相隨是為「信」與「義」；賢良恭儉，母儀天下，是為「德」；不干預政事，抑制外戚專權是為「禮」；對後宮元人畫梅花仕女軸

According to legend, Princess Shouyang of the Song Dynasty woke up from her nap to ﬁnd a plum blossom had landed between her brows. This chance event became a fashion statement that took off at court. _Courtesy of The National Palace Museum

嬪妃體恤愛護是為「仁」。長孫皇后集「德」、「義」、「禮」、「仁」、「信」這五項美好的品行於一身，在短短不過三十餘載的人生中，獲得全天下人的擁戴，其樹立的典範留予後世婦女，一生如同流星般，短暫而輝煌。如今，新唐人電視台以「德」、「義」、「禮」、「仁」、「信」這五項中華文化的傳統價值作為核心理念，舉辦首屆新唐人全球華人選美大賽「Miss NTD」，旨在弘揚對女性的傳統審美價值觀，回歸純真、純善、純美的正統文化。

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military achievements. There were many times when Taizong wished to promote him to the role of prime minister, yet the empress was convinced that this would lead to problems. She believed that since she was made empress, her family had already enjoyed the greatest extent of imperial favor. Empress Zhangsun believed that members of her clan should not be the ones filling powerful political roles, as there had been incidents in history that proved this to be disastrous to the country and the court. Despite Empress Zhangsun’s objections, Taizong made Zhangsun Wuji chancellor and minister of civil service affairs. The empress asked her brother to resign from those positions to avoid misunderstandings within the court, and therefore Zhangsun Wuji repeatedly asked the emperor to allow him to resign. Eventually, a change in court rankings allowed her brother to hold an honorary position but without real power, and the weight was removed from Empress Zhangsun’s mind. On matters regarding her relatives, the empress used history as a reference. Even on her deathbed, she was still reminding her husband to avoid assigning her family members to prominent ranks. She wrote Important Principles for Young Women, a 30-volume anthology of stories about women—including empresses and concubines—with her own commentary. She did not want Taizong to know about the work during her lifetime because her main purpose in writing it was to discipline herself and remind herself not to overstep her authority. After her death, the book was presented to the emperor. Taizong was filled with sorrow at the sight of her work and said, “This book by the empress is worthy of educating later generations!” He ordered the book to be published and distributed, and Important Principles for Young Women became one of the first books to be printed using woodblock printing technology. INTERNALLY LOVING, EXTERNALLY VIRTUOUS When it came to managing the imperial household and concubines, Empress Zhangsun had her own

philosophy. She was not haughty, nor did she vie for attention and favor. She shared her medicine with ill concubines. If a concubine died during childbirth, the empress would take the baby under her wing and raise it as her own. She did not see the safety and lives of the palace servants as lesser than her own. She never allowed anyone to be unjustly condemned, and if the emperor was angered by some insignificant affair, she would find wise ways to resolve it. Once, Taizong’s beloved horse suddenly died. Taizong was furious at the stable hands and wanted to punish them by death. When Empress Zhangsun found out about the incident, instead of begging for the emperor’s mercy, she told him a story: During the Spring and Autumn period, Duke Jing of Qi wanted to kill the stable hand because his beloved horse had died. An old official named Yanzi decided to use this opportunity to chastise the stable hand. “You have committed three crimes,” he said. “First, a perfectly fine horse died under your care. Second, you have turned our ruler into an unvirtuous man by putting in him the desire to kill a man over a horse. Third, our country will now be laughed at by all the other countries.” When Yanzi finished speaking, Duke Jing, who had been standing off to the side, realized his wrongdoing and immediately pardoned the stable hand. When she f inished telling her story, Empress Zhangsun asked the history-loving emperor, “Have you forgotten this story, Your Majesty?” Taizong picked up on the empress’s meaning, and the stable hands were pardoned. Later, Taizong spoke of this incident with his chancellor Fang Xuanling. “The empress can always find ways to inspire and influence me, and has helped me greatly.” In the eighth year of Taizong’s reign, Empress Zhangsun accompanied him on an imperial inspection of Jiucheng Palace. On the way back, she caught a cold, which triggered one of her former illnesses. Her condition worsened day by day. The crown prince requested pardoning all the prisoners and having them pray for the empress’s recovery, but Empress Zhangsun was against this.

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A d

明仇英畫漢宮春曉圖卷

In ancient China, a woman’s beauty was deﬁned not by her physical appearance, but by her grace and virtuous nature. _Courtesy of The National Palace Museum

“Life and death are up to fate; they are not things that can be changed by human endeavours. If cultivating virtues can prolong one’s life, I have never committed ill deeds; if doing good deeds are ineffective, then what use is there in praying for blessings? Pardoning prisoners is a serious affair of the state. I, a woman, must not be the reason for political upheaval.” Empress Zhangsun was highly principled, and never allowed her own personal affairs to affect the affairs of the country. She believed that she had made

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no contributions to the empire, and on her deathbed, asked her husband for a simple burial and no tomb. Empress Zhangsun was 36 years old when she died. Taizong personally composed the words for her tombstone. He lamented to his officials the pains of losing his wife, and said: “It is not that I do not know that the empress’s death is Heaven’s will, and that it is time for our love to come to an end. Yet I cannot suppress my grief whenever I remember that I have lost a virtuous wife and a wonderful helper.” Taizong’s sorrow

at losing his wife was indescribable, and he never had another empress. When he died, he was buried next to Empress Zhangsun in the Zhao Mausoleum. A TIMELESS PARAGON Empress Zhangsun was conscientious throughout her life. She exemplified faithfulness and righteousness through her devoted marriage with Taizong. She exemplified virtuousness through her integrity and prudence while being an empress. She exemplified propriety through her abstinence from politics and restraint upon clan members with regard to holding political power. She exemplified kindness through her care and empathy toward Taizong’s concubines. Empress Zhangsun internalized the qualities of morality,

A PAGEANT TO FIND MISS NTD The pageant is open to Chinese women, 18 to 30 years of age, from all over the world. Through this event, NTD hopes to discover young women who possess traditional Eastern beauty. Every contestant will receive comprehensive training. The lessons will be centered on traditional Chinese culture, and will enable every contestant to be fully immersed in traditional values. In addition, there will be complete professional training in topics such as stage etiquette, attire, hair styling and makeup, social interaction, and public speaking, through which contestants will be able to gain valuable experience. NTD hopes that through this pageant, contestants will improve physically, mentally, and spiritually, and find ways to integrate traditional wisdom and elegance into modern life. The pageant will have three stages: application and selection, online audition, and live competition. Applications are now open. The application deadline is May 1, 2023. NTD will broadcast the live competition from September 24 to October 1, 2023. The goal of this pageant is to reintroduce the world to traditional values, and to showcase the elegant beauty of the East. NTD hopes this pageant

righteousness, propriety, benevolence, and faithfulness. In her short lifetime, she won the love of the people and became an example for later generations of young women. Empress Zhangsun’s life was like a shooting star—short, yet brilliant. The excellent qualities displayed by women such as Empress Zhangsun have continued to be a source of inspiration in the present day. New Tang Dynasty Television (NTD) will be holding its first Global Chinese Beauty Pageant, Miss NTD, based on the core values of traditional Chinese culture: morality, righteousness, propriety, benevolence, and faithfulness. The purpose of the pageant is to promote women’s traditional values and encourage a return to a traditional culture of pure authenticity, pure goodness, and pure beauty.

will inspire purity and beauty and be a rediscovery of elegance. 新唐人小姐大賽的參選對象，面向全球各地所有十八至三十歲的華裔女性，盼能藉此發掘具備東方傳統美的年輕女性，藉此展示華裔女性秀外慧中、德儀萬方的風韻。每位參選佳麗皆能獲得全方位的培訓機會，課程內容貫穿中華傳統文化，讓每位選手浸潤於傳統美德的價值理念的薰陶之中。此外，還有完整的專業培訓，包括舞臺禮儀、著裝、化妝和髮型，社交、公共演講的談吐舉止等，讓每位佳麗皆能從中充分汲取寶貴經驗的承傳與養分。希望透過本次賽事，讓參賽者皆能獲得身、心、靈的全面提升，將古典的智慧與優雅，以更臻完美的方式融入現代生活。大賽分為申請和初選、線上試鏡和現場比賽三個階段，現已開始接受報名，截止日期為 2023 年 5 月

1 日。屆時新唐人電視台將於同年的 9 月 24 日至 10 月 1 日轉播現場比賽，藉此喚起世人重新認識傳統的美好，藉由展現清麗脫俗、高貴優雅的東方之美，讓這場盛宴為世界帶來一縷純美而清新的風潮，並再現風華。

For updates and to learn more, please visit https://missntd.org

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Mary Heffernan at Five Marys Farm with free-range Black Angus cattle in the background.

ELITE LIFESTYLE

At Home on the Ranch Mom of four left Silicon Valley for a rancher’s life in the California mountains

從矽谷到北加州牧場 4孩媽媽的企業人生 By Hazel Atkins

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE.

or Mary Heffernan, being an entrepreneur is a lifestyle, one that demands complete attention and commitment—and, sometimes, a willingness to sleep on the floor. At age 44, she and her husband, Brian, run Five Marys Farm, a ranch in Siskiyou County, California, with free-range, pasture-raised Black Angus cattle, Berkshire hogs, and Navajo-Churro sheep. They also run an online and brick-and-mortar shop, a restaurant and bar, and a butchery. In addition, they offer two online courses—teaching small business essentials to budding entrepreneurs and ranch skills to kids. Juggling all of this while raising four daughters (all named Mary) may seem ambitious, but Heffernan has been on this journey all her life. She has had, in total, 19 to 20 businesses along the way. “I always had this spark,” Heffernan said. “I was the oldest of four, and I was motivated by wanting my own money in the bank and making my own decisions.” At age 9, she started a T-shirt stenciling business and had booths at craft fairs. At 13, she opened a backyard summer camp for 15 to 20 kids called Mary’s Fun Summer Camp, which she ran annually until she was 18. As a child, teen, and later college student looking for income to help pay her way

對瑪麗．赫弗南（Mary Heffernan）來說，做一名企業家就是她的生活，需要完全的專注和承擔責任，忙碌的日常裡，有時還得席地而睡。在加利福尼亞州西斯科尤縣，44 歲的赫弗南和她的丈夫布萊恩，有四個名字都叫「瑪麗」的女兒。他們一家經營著「五瑪麗農場」（Five Marys Farm），農場裡飼養著自由放養的黑安格斯牛、伯克希爾豬和納瓦霍—楚爾羅羊。除了農場，赫弗南夫婦還經營一間網路兼實體店面、一間酒吧餐廳、一家肉品店。此外，他們也提供兩個線上課程——一個向剛起步的企業家傳授小企業創業的基本知識；另一個向孩子們傳授牧場技能。在旁人眼裡，養育四個女兒的同時兼顧這一切，似乎很有野心，但赫弗南一生都走在這條路上，如今，她共經手了 19~20 項業務。自幼的創業基因「我總是有這種靈感，」赫弗南說，「我在家中四個孩子排行老大，從小一想到自己的錢存在銀行裡，可以自己做決定，我就幹勁十足。」9歲時，她開始做T恤衫圖樣的生意，並在工藝品展銷會上擺攤。 13歲時，她為15至 20個孩子開設了一個後院夏令營，名為「瑪麗的快樂夏令營」，18歲前她每年都經營這個夏令營。從小學到大學，她一直在設法賺錢，用來支付自己的學費。「我只是一直在尋找創業的機會，」她說，「我知道，一個想法可以通過努力工作實現。」

through school, “I was just always looking for chances to start businesses,” she said. “I knew that with a lot of hard work, I could make an idea happen.” Heffernan’s biggest inspiration was her grandfather. “He was a serial entrepreneur,” she recalled. “He always had a new idea on the horizon. He would drive me around picking up checks from his rental properties and looking at empty buildings. He would say, ‘What could we put in there? We could make it an ice cream shop or a taco bar.’ He inspired me to realize, ‘Wow, you can just think up an idea and make it a business.’” 44│

赫弗南最大的靈感源自其祖父。「他一輩子都在創業，」她回憶，「他從來不缺乏新點子。他會開車帶著我，到他的出租物業去取支票、看空房子。他會說：『我們可以在那裡做點什麼？我們可以把它變成一間冰淇淋店或一間玉米餅店。』他帶給我的啟發讓我意識到，『哇，你可以有一個想法，然後把它變成一個生意。』」在投入牧場生活之前，赫弗南和她的丈夫在矽谷便是小企業主，其中包括一家律師事務所和兩家餐館。「在那裡很難搞砸，」她笑著說，「可以說，當我們搬到牧場時，我們離開了充滿機會的地方，轉而選擇辛勤工作的土地。」

The girls of the Heffernan family have their own horses to ride, and they compete in rodeo events. Left page:

MaryTeresa (Tessa) and MaryJane (JJ) Heffernan practice their rodeo skills at Five Marys Farm, their family ranch in Fort Jones, Calif.

BACK TO THE LAND Before the ranch, Heffernan and her husband owned a number of businesses in Silicon Valley, including a law firm and two restaurants. “It’s hard to screw up there,” she said with a laugh. “But we left the land of opportunity for the land of hard work when we moved onto the ranch.” Working in the restaurant business, they had become frustrated with the lack of high-quality, grass-fed beef from animals raised and butchered humanely. So they decided to do it themselves. In 2013, they bought the historic Sharps Gulch Ranch,

從牛排開始的一場冒險在經營餐館時，市場上缺乏高品質的草飼牛肉，讓赫弗南夫婦感到失望，多數牛肉都來自一般人道飼養和屠宰的動物。因此，他們決定自己做這件事。 2013年，赫弗南夫婦買下了歷史悠久的Sharps Gulch牧場，這片 1,800英畝的土地位於北加州山區。起初，他們試圖遠程管理牧場，只在週末到訪。但在實行八週後，他們意識到這件事需要全心投入，於是他們決定搬到那裡，全職經營。赫弗南說：「我們離開了郊區的舒適生活，住進了一個760平方英尺的房子，房子裡除了木爐之外沒有暖氣、沒有洗碗機，幾乎沒有任何設施。」因此，他們經常睡在柴火爐前的地板上，因為那是最溫暖的地方。 │45

1,800 acres of land in the mountains of Northern California, and tried to run the ranch remotely through a ranch manager and weekend visits. By eight weeks in, they realized they couldn’t do things halfway: They decided to move there and run it full time. “We left a life of comfort in suburbia to live in a 760-square-foot house with no heat besides the woodstove, no dishwasher, no amenities,” Heffernan said. They often slept on the floor in front of the woodstove because that was the warmest place to be. But despite such a dramatic change in lifestyle, Heffernan and her family immediately saw its benefits. “We didn’t have that kind of satisfaction in the Bay Area working in front of computers all day,” she said. “Here, we saved a calf’s life; my daughter delivered baby lambs; we dug a ditch to divert the water to our field.” By going back to the farming roots of her own and her husband’s families, Heffernan has found it easier to teach her core values to their four daughters. “On the ranch, they see that having a skill set to be hireable [doesn’t mean] only an education; it’s knowing how to work hard, and feeling the euphoria of coming in dog-tired at the end of the day knowing that you can be proud of your work,” she said. Heffernan is also grateful that their lifestyle still gives her opportunities to grow her family business and make a good living. They went on to open a restaurant and bar, Five Marys Burgerhouse, in 2017, and a craft butchery shop in 2021. They published two cookbooks, sharing their favorite recipes for

儘管生活方式發生巨變，赫弗南一家人隨即發現了在這裡生活的好處。「我們在灣區整天在電腦前工作，但沒有現在的滿足感。」她說，「在這裡，我們救了一頭小牛的命，我的女兒接生了小羔羊，我們挖了一條溝，把水引到我們的田裡。」赫弗南和丈夫從小都生活在農業家庭，回歸家庭的傳統後，赫弗南發現更容易將其篤信的核心價值教給四個女兒。她認為，孩子們在牧場裡可以親身體驗到，努力工作可以讓自己擁有一套值得被僱用的技能。一天結束時，即使累得筋疲力盡，也難以掩蓋親手勞動後帶來的自豪和欣喜。赫弗南對現在的生活方式也滿懷感激，這讓她有機會發展自己的家庭企業，並讓家人過上好日子。他們在 2017 年開了一間酒吧餐館 Five Marys Burgerhouse， 2021 年一家手工肉品店新開張。 2020 年和 2022 年，他們分別出版了兩本食譜書，分享一家人最喜愛的食譜，介紹他們如何使用自家的牛肉，餵飽家人，或招待造訪牧場的客人。他們的牛肉不僅在鎮上的農場商店出售，也透過電商銷售至別州，如來自紐約、夏威夷或阿拉斯加的訂單。「這對我來說太有意義了，」赫弗南說，「我可以過我想要的生活，回歸土地，回到我的根，同時利用技術來謀生。它像一扇窗，我通過它向人們展示我們的世界和我們正在做的事情。」她利用社群媒體分享一家人在牧場上的生活，並與其客戶建立聯繫。「這也是我們的業務獲得成功的部分原因，人們放心從我們這裡買東西。」企業藍圖生生不息如今赫弗南利用其親身經驗，指導其他想投入企業經營的人。

Mary Heffernan cooks a recipe from her first cookbook, Five Marys Ranch Raised Cookbook, for the Home and Family daytime talk show during the fall of 2020.

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using their meats and feeding their family and frequent guests to the ranch, in 2020 and 2022. Thanks to the internet, they can sell meat not only to locals at their farm store in town, but to someone in New York, Hawaii, or Alaska. “That is so meaningful to me,” Heffernan said. “I can live the life that I want, back to the land, back to my roots, while using technology to make a living. It allows me to open up a window to so many people to show them our world and what we’re doing.” She uses social media to share her family’s life on the ranch and build a connection with her customers: “That’s partly why our business has been successful and people trust buying from us.” EMPOWERING ENTREPRENEURS Now, Heffernan is taking her experience to become a mentor for other aspiring entrepreneurs. She’s a strong advocate for taking risks and jumping in with both feet: “You need to be willing to do everything you can to make it happen,” she said. A big part of her confidence comes from the tools she has in her arsenal. “If I have an idea and I want to make it happen, I know I can build a website myself. I can design a new logo. I know that I can get the nitty-gritty done fairly quickly: Get the insurance in place, form a payroll program. Those things all seem really daunting at first to someone starting a business, and they are.” She doesn’t shy away from talking about the financial aspect: “If you really want to build something that is going to sustain you and your family, you have to look toward profitability.” To help equip new entrepreneurs with the tools they need, Heffernan created her M5 Entrepreneurs program, an online course structured as a “road map” through 40 different topics, from shipping logistics to social media. “Nobody’s going to teach you how to have an idea or how to work hard, but having all the tools to take your idea and make it a reality is so important,” she said. The course also includes access to an app, a community where participants can ask questions and feel like they’re not alone on their journey. Since its inception five years ago, the program has had over 2,500 enrollments, with participants from the United States, Canada, Australia, Mexico, and the U.K. Their burgeoning businesses have included

f lower farmers, bakeries, creameries, and saddle makers. One success story that stands out for Heffernan is of a woman in upstate New York who bought an apple orchard with her husband and started an apple business. Last winter, Heffernan ordered their special holiday box, which arrived beautifully packaged—following the program’s advice. A letter enclosed for Heffernan thanked her for the courses, telling her that leaving an unfulfilling job to work on the apple farm seemed scary and impossible, but the couple gained the confidence and tools to do it and now have a thriving business shipping all over the country. “The most rewarding thing as a mentor,” Heffernan said, “is seeing people take the tools and thrive.”

她倡導人們承擔風險和雙腳跳入。「你得願意盡你一切所能來實現它，」赫弗南表示，自信很大一部分來自於她所擁有的工具。「如果我有一個想法，想讓它實現，我知道可以自己建立一個網站，可以設計一個新的標誌，我可以相當迅速地完成這些瑣事。還有買好保險，制定一個工資方案，這些事情一開始對創業的人來說，似乎都很艱鉅，而且確實如此。」赫弗南並不迴避談論財務問題，「如果你真的想擁有一個維持你和家庭的東西，你必須著眼於盈利能力。」為了幫助新的企業家掌握他們所需要的工具，她創建了獨家的 M5 企業家計畫，此線上課程，結構為一張計畫藍圖，涉及 40 項不同的主題，從運輸物流到社群媒體。赫弗南說：「沒有人會教你如何擁有一個想法或如何努力工作，但擁有所有的工具來實現你的想法，並將其變為現實，實在太重要了。」該課程還包括使用一組應用程式，這是一個社群，參與者可以在此平臺提問。社群的存在，讓創業者在創業途中不再只是孤獨前行。自成立五年多以來，該項目已經有超過 2,500 人註冊參加，參與者來自美國、加拿大、澳洲、墨西哥和英國等地。其中，讓赫弗南印象深刻的一個成功故事，是紐約州北部的一位婦女，她與丈夫一起購買了一個蘋果園並開始了蘋果生意。去年冬天，赫弗南訂購了他們的特別節日禮盒，禮盒到達時包裝精美——這正是課程計畫的建議。這位業主附給赫弗南一封信，感謝她的課程，並告訴她，離開一份令人不滿意的工作去蘋果園工作，似乎很可怕又不可能，但這對夫婦有了「工具」，獲得了信心，現在他們生意興隆，貨物運輸到全國各地。「作為一名導師，最有價值的事情，就是看到人們利用這些工具，並茁壯成長。」赫夫南說。 │47

Grilled Steaks With Chermoula Butter Recipe by Mary Heffernan There’s no better way to welcome friends to the ranch than with a dinner of grilled steak hot off the coals. For special guests, we’ll often break out a big tomahawk steak or a few thick-cut Five Marys rib eyes. But when it’s just family, we often choose more economical cuts of beef. Personally, I think sirloin is the most

Makes 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS For the Steaks 4 (¾- to 1-pound) sirloin steaks, or 2 (1½-to 2½pound) rib eyes, or 2 (21/2-to 3-pound) tomahawk steaks 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper For the Chermoula Butter 1/2 cup roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems 1 small serrano pepper (or 1/2 jalapeño), stemmed and roughly chopped 1 large clove garlic, crushed 3/4 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika 1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds, toasted 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, at room temperature Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

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overlooked steak. It has great fat without being overly fatty, and it usually has just the right consistency. It’s cut thinner than other steaks, so it’s quick to cook and difficult to undercook—the perfect steak for people who are intimidated by grilling meat. Chermoula is traditionally a North African spiceand-herb mixture used on meats, fish, and vegetables. Here, the same flavors are mixed into a butter, which enhances the steak with a lot less work than a fancy sauce. Brian calls this recipe “off-the-rails good,” which is pretty much the highest praise he gives.

DIRECTIONS About 30 minutes before grilling, rub the steaks on both sides with the olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and let sit at room temperature until the grill is hot. Preheat a hardwood fire for grilling (we use oak for the tow-behind grill), or heat a gas or charcoal grill to medium (about 400 degrees F). To make the butter, in the work bowl of a food processor, pulse the parsley, serrano, garlic, paprika, and cumin until finely chopped. Add the softened butter, season with salt and pepper, and pulse and scrape until no visible lumps of plain butter remain. Season to taste; then scrape the butter into a bowl and set aside. (You can also make the butter by finely chopping all the ingredients and mashing the butter into them with a fork. The butter can be made ahead and refrigerated, covered, for up to a week. You can also form the butter into a wrapped log and refrigerate it to be sliced for serving with individual portions.) When the grill is hot, brush the cooking grates clean. For sirloin steaks, grill for 6 to 8 minutes (with the lid closed), turning once when the steaks are deeply marked by the grill. For rib eyes and tomahawks, grill for 10 to 12 minutes, or until deeply marked, turning once, then move the steaks to the cooler side of the grill and cook for a few more minutes to the desired doneness. (The temperature of sirloin steaks is often hard to measure because they’re so thin, but look for the steaks to register 125 F in the center on an instant-read thermometer for medium-rare. A thermometer is especially important for big cuts like tomahawks, for which doneness can be difficult to determine based on appearance.) Transfer the steaks to a platter, scoop dollops of the butter all over them, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice the steaks into ½-inch strips, smearing the butter as you go, and serve warm.

6~8人份

碳烤牛排佐北非風味謝穆拉奶油

牛排材料在農場上，一桌香氣四溢的碳烤牛排是最好的待客之道。招待特別的客人時，通常會端出最好的戰斧牛排或Five Marys肋眼排。如果只是家庭聚會，則會選擇比較經濟

4塊沙朗牛排（¾到1磅），或2塊肋眼牛排（1½到2½磅），或2塊戰斧牛排（2 ½到3磅）

實惠的部位。我個人認為，所有部位中，沙朗有點被小

2 湯匙特級初榨橄欖油

看了。它的油花比例絕佳，不過度肥膩，口感也有一定水

猶太鹽和現磨黑胡椒

準。沙朗通常切得較薄，烹調時間短，可以很快上桌，又北非風味謝穆拉奶油材料

不會太生，最適合不太敢吃烤牛排的人。謝穆拉是用多種香料和香草混合而成的傳統北非佐

½ 杯扁葉歐芹，切碎

料，無論是肉、魚，還是蔬菜料理中，都可以使用。我的

1根塞拉諾辣椒（或半根墨西哥辣椒），

這個食譜把謝穆拉香料混入奶油中，可以大大增添牛排

去梗後切丁

的風味，比起製作手法繁複的醬汁輕鬆許多。布萊恩說，

1瓣蒜頭，壓扁

這個食譜是「突破舊框架的美味」，這大概是他能說出的最高讚美了吧！

¾ 茶匙西班牙煙燻甜椒粉 ½ 茶匙烘烤孜然籽 6大匙（¾條）無鹽奶油，放軟至室溫後切塊猶太鹽和現磨黑胡椒

作法在預備烤製約30分鐘前，將橄欖油塗在牛排上，以鹽和胡椒調味，於室溫下醃製，直到烤架加熱完成。

將碳烤的木柴燒熱（在炙烤拖車上烤肉時，我們通常使用橡木來烤），用瓦斯、木炭烤架的話，可加熱至中火（約華氏400度）。

製作謝穆拉奶油的方法是，將歐芹、塞拉諾辣椒、蒜頭、煙燻甜椒粉和孜然，放入食物調理機中打碎，加入軟化後的奶油，用鹽和胡椒調味，接著繼續打，直到奶油和香料混和均勻滑順、沒有結塊。根據個人喜好調味之後，取出奶油置於碗中、並將調理機上殘餘的奶油刮乾淨。（沒有食物調理機的話，也可以在把所有香料切碎後拌入奶油，並以叉子攪拌均勻後靜置即可。謝穆拉奶油可以提前做好，放入冰箱冷藏，保存期約為一週。亦可用保鮮膜塑成長條型冷藏，可切片供單人食用。）

在烤爐加溫的同時將烤網先刷乾淨。沙朗部位，在闔上上蓋的狀況下要烤 6 ～ 8分鐘，待牛排上有明顯深色烤痕時可翻面一次。肋眼和戰斧部位則需烤 10～12分鐘，或等到烤痕明顯加深時翻面。然後移到烤盤上溫度較低的位置續烤數分鐘，待牛排達到喜歡的熟度後盛盤。（由於沙朗通常切得比較薄，因此溫度較難控制。不過，可使用速讀型食物溫度計測量溫度，當牛排中心達到華氏125度時，即是五分熟。食物溫度計，對於烤製如戰斧牛排這類大塊肉排而言，特別重要，因為大塊肉排的熟度很難從外表來判斷。）

將烤好的牛排裝盤，舀上一杓奶油，蓋上錫箔紙後靜置5分鐘。可將牛排切成半英寸的條狀，抹上奶油一同食用更添美味。 │49

Asparagus With Fried Lemon and Garlic My mom grew up in Watsonville, California, south of the Bay Area in the Pajaro Valley, where asparagus farms thrive. Asparagus was also a staple at my family’s dinner table—and often just served with mayonnaise for dipping, which my own girls also love. When we want to level up a little, though, we roast asparagus and top it with fried

Makes 6 servings INGREDIENTS 2 pounds asparagus, ends trimmed 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 large lemon, ends trimmed 2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed

lemons made by just cooking thinly sliced lemon over high heat in a little bit of olive oil. The rind softens and sweetens as it cooks, so you can eat the entire thing. You can use the same method for any vegetable that tastes great with a squeeze of lemon—try broccoli, green beans, cauliflower, snap peas, or zucchini.

DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 425 F. Pile the asparagus into a 9-by-13-inch baking dish and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil; then season with salt and pepper. Toss the spears to coat evenly; then spread them out in a roughly even layer. Roast for 8 to 10 minutes or until crisp-tender. Meanwhile, slice the lemon in half lengthwise, pick out any visible seeds, and set aside one-half for later. Slice the remaining half into ⅛-inch-thick half-moons, removing any seeds. Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and when the oil is shimmering, carefully add the lemon slices in a single layer, then toss in the garlic. Cook undisturbed for about 1 minute, or until the lemon slices turn dark brown.

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When the asparagus is ready, squeeze the reserved lemon half over the fried lemon slices, then scrape the entire lemon-garlic mixture over the asparagus and serve immediately.

ILLUSTRATION BY RAWPIXEL.COM

Remove the pan from the heat, flip the lemon slices and garlic, and let them continue cooking off the heat while the asparagus finishes cooking.

蒜香蘆筍佐炸檸檬我母親成長於加州華森維爾，該地區位於灣區南邊的帕哈羅谷，是個盛產蘆筍的地方。蘆筍是我家餐桌上的招牌菜，通常沾著美乃滋吃，這也是我女兒們很喜愛的一道菜。當我們想要吃得高級點時，便會在烤蘆筍加上炸檸檬片。把檸檬片切得薄薄的，鍋中用少量的橄欖油，高溫快速酥炸一下。檸檬皮在高溫下會軟化，甜味也會加重，因此食用時不用去皮，可連皮帶果肉直接入口。這不只可以替蘆筍調味，只要適合和檸檬一起食用的食材都可以，諸如青花菜、菜豆、花椰菜、甜豌豆或櫛瓜等，都很搭。

6人份

材料 2磅蘆筍，切除根部 4大匙特級初榨橄欖油猶太鹽和現磨黑胡椒粉 1顆大顆檸檬，切除頭尾 2瓣蒜頭，去皮、壓扁

作法將烤箱預熱至華氏425度。把所有蘆筍放入9x13英寸的烤盤，淋上約2大匙橄欖油，以鹽和胡椒調味，攪拌一下，讓調味料均勻裹上蘆筍，然後把蘆筍鋪平，烤8~10分鐘或直到外脆內嫩。同時，將檸檬橫切後，留一半，另一半切成⅛英寸左右厚度的薄片，把籽挑乾淨備用。取平底鍋用中大火加熱，加入2大匙橄欖油，待油紋出現後放入檸檬片，彼此不要重疊，再加入蒜頭，靜置，不要攪拌，1分鐘後或直到檸檬顏色變深。把鍋從爐上移開，檸檬蒜頭翻面後，用鍋中的餘熱持續烹調，等蘆筍烤好後再起鍋。蘆筍烤好後，把剛剛留下的另一半新鮮檸檬的汁擠到炸好的檸檬片上，拌勻後一起倒在蘆筍上即可上桌。

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHRISTOPHER HORWOOD FOR DE GOURNAY

ELITE HOME

Mother Nature by Design 5 simple ways to incorporate nature into your home 居「綠」室而倍增其樂簡易居家改造5妙方 By Faithe Lo

s our lives accelerate to keep up w ith modern technology, we are pushed further from nature than ever before. Yet, its omnipresent magic can’t be ignored. When we allow ourselves to reconnect with nature—whether by pausing to listen to a bird call or stepping outside to bask in the sunshine—we instantly feel our nerves soothed and our spirits renewed. In recent years, biophilic designs have seen a surge in popularity—a sign of humanity's innate pull toward the natural world. This yearning manifests in almost every aspect of our lives: We may find ourselves beekeeping, gardening, enjoying the healing effects of nature, or learning about the benefits of eating organic. Some who are courageous have quit their jobs to take up homesteading. If you’re seeking change but are feeling a bit less daring, simply adding some nature-inspired elements to your home can make a world of difference.

現代人四處忙碌，生活步調越來越快，離自然越來越遠。然而，大自然中卻充滿著神奇的力量，無論是鳥叫、蟲鳴，或是綠葉、陽光，都能安撫人們緊繃的神經。因此近年來，諸如親生物性設計、綠建築等逐漸發展成熟，這些現象與潮流，都代表著人們想要從自然裡，重新找回滋養生命的力量。這個潮流不僅滿足人們想跟自然連結的願望，也影響著生活中方方面面的選擇：有人在家養蜂或種植花草蔬果，有人開始關注自然環保議題，人們選購有機食材的比重也日漸增加，更有甚者，離開都市塵囂走向鄉村，擁抱自產自銷、自給自足的生活。在室內設計也反映出這一點：在家中融入大自然的家居風格，如大地色系、綠葉或花果，或使用天然永續的材質，如天然木材、純棉或籐製品等，都是這幾年人氣居高不下的潮流。在家具選用上，也從線條剛硬、直線型的簡單風格，逐漸轉變為更自然有機、帶有曲線美的樣式。印著自然花草或密林景色的壁紙、抱枕等圖樣也備受歡迎，而新鮮花束或植物盆栽，更是歷久不衰的家居裝飾。本文就此趨勢，和大家一同感受綠意家居。

TRY NATURE-INSPIRED PATTERNS Add life to your home with floral and leafy designs. You can incorporate these patterns anywhere, but a good place to start would be on your wallpaper, tablecloth, and throw pillows. If you fancy a bit more pizazz, try patterns of insects, birds, or rainforests.

使用花草蟲魚圖案在家中各處使用自然圖案的用品，如壁紙、抱枕、桌巾等。不僅限於花草植物，其他諸如昆蟲、鳥類或熱帶叢林等圖案，都是很好的選擇。

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運用天然材質在能夠選擇的情況下，捨棄化纖、聚合塑膠等石化材料，優先採用天然、永續材質的物品，如純棉、竹編、天然石材或回收再生的材料等。展示以自然為主題的藝術品無論是植物圖鑑、花卉油畫，還是風景寫生都好，當然，昆蟲標本、精緻木雕也可以。擁抱自然曲線和色調想想籐蔓攀上圍籬的卷曲、大樹向下扎根的粗壯，再想想各種深淺的草葉綠、不同色調的莓果紅，不妨告別灰黑色調和剛硬的線條，轉而擁抱大自然的勃勃生機。如

USE NATURAL MATERIALS This year, get inspired by furniture and accessories made from natural materials such as wood, stone, cotton, wool, bamboo, cork, or rattan. You can never go wrong with what’s biodegradable and sustainable.

果擔心彼此色調不協調，就從想像一個你最喜歡的自然環境開始：如果是沙灘，那麼由淺到深的砂色和海藍色最適合你；如果是森林，那便是各種葉綠色、樹幹的棕色和莓果的顏色。引進室外景色

EMBRACE EARTHY TONES AND LINES Forego the dull gray scale and try color schemes reminiscent of your favorite outdoor scene. Add a relaxing vibe to your home by retiring the stiff, straight-lined furniture and opting for something free-flowing and curvy. If you’re not the best at matching colors, you can try brainstorming a location first; then select a color palette that’s most representative of that scene. For example, imagine the vines and foliage that intertwined to create the stunning Amazon rainforest. From there, you can select various shades of green to represent the leaves, a few warm browns for the trunks, a touch of yellow for sunlight, and a rich red or purple for the berries that adorn trees. LET THE OUTDOORS IN Make the most of your windows and balconies—a picturesque view is worth a thousand décor items. Simply open the curtains and let natural light in. If that’s not an option, a vase of fresh-cut f lowers or some green potted plants can also do the trick. You can create an indoor vertical garden on one wall. 54│

如果家裡有大窗戶或陽臺望向天空或室外綠植，那真的是一件很幸運的事！一定要引入室外光線和美景，但若沒有美景，則可退而求其次，用觀葉植物、新鮮花束妝點家中。而近年來也有人選擇在家中設置植生牆，看著牆面上的植物欣欣向榮，達到愉悅身心的效果。

IMAGES BY 1STDIBS, AMARA, CHAIRISH, LLADRÓ, ROB WINGATE, SAFAVIEH, SANDBERG WALLPAPER AND SIKA DESIGN.

DISPLAY NATURE-THEMED ARTWORK Your choices for nature-inspired décor are endless. For a touch of the wild, browse local shops for botanical illustrations, landscape paintings, wood carvings, insect specimens, and the like.

1 ANTIQUE BLACK FOREST CUCKOO CLOCK, $1,600, CHAIRISH.COM | 2 HAND-COLORED BIRD OR PARROT ENGRAVINGS BY ALEXANDER F. LYDON, SET OF SIX, $5,950, CHAIRISH.COM | 3 FOUR CHAIRS, SAGE VELVET PILLOW, $80, 4-CHAIRS.COM | 4 NEXT, EMBROIDERED FLORAL CUSHION, $33, NEXT.US | 5 LATE 19TH-CENTURY FRENCH GILT, CARVED WOOD CANAPÉ, SOFA LOUIS XV STYLE, $2,781 (PRICE MAY VARY), 1STDIBS.COM | 6 LLADRÓ, VASE WITH FLOWERS, PINK, $2,320, LLADRO.COM | 7 SANDBERG WALLPAPER, VINNIE SAGE GREEN, $145 PER ROLL, SANDBERGWALLPAPER.COM | 8 SAFAVIEH, JUSTINA SIDE TABLE, GOLD, $213, HOUZZ.COM

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ELITE FAMILY

It’s Music to Their Ears How to get kids to appreciate classical music and why 如何培養孩子的古典音樂素養 By Angelica Reis Illustration by Biba Kayewich

lassical music was born in the halls of churches and monasteries. At its heart lies divine inspiration. It’s a gift given to humankind for devotion, enjoyment, and discipline. It’s one of those precious aspects of our culture that allows us to stay connected to our maker. The composers of old knew this. Many of them, upon completing a work, dedicated it, in writing, “to the glory of God” or “to God alone be the glory.” They understood that such beauty couldn’t be an act of human beings alone. In fact, if you think about it, there’s nothing on earth quite the same as classical music. It’s in a league of its own. For these and other reasons, a lot of parents want to expose their children to classical music, with the goal of fostering a true appreciation for it. But many don’t know where to start, especially when a child may not be learning an instrument, and they themselves may not be that well-versed. There are a few simple things that anyone can do to nurture enjoyment of classical music in kids.

古典音樂原誕生自神聖而莊嚴的教堂與修道院中，根本上充滿了神性。這是神為了獎勵人的奉獻精神、喜樂和自律，而賜給人的禮物。這是人類文化中的一項瑰寶，讓人能夠更靠近造物主。從前的作曲家在作品完成時，總會寫道：「願榮耀歸於神」或者「榮耀唯獨歸於神」。他們都認為，人無法獨力成就如此美妙的作品。仔細想想會發現，這世上沒有什麼像古典音樂那般，完全是自成一格的。除此之外，有許多家長希望孩子能從小接觸古典樂，培養鑑賞音樂的能力。不過許多人不知道怎麼開始，特別是沒有學過樂器的人，或者原本就對音樂就不精通者。本文將分享一些能夠培養孩子古典音樂素養的簡單方式。越早接觸越好讓古典樂融入日常環境，流淌於家中各個角落，替生活創造一種舒適的氛圍。跟孩子分享關於那段音樂的故事，比如：作曲家的名字、樂團的名字，或者音樂來自哪個國家等，也可以簡單問問孩子，他們對那段音樂的想法。您也可以分享自己的感受，像是——「你不覺得剛剛那段聽起來很像鳥叫聲嗎？」等對話。不過，記得不要給孩子太大的壓力，否則，可能讓

EARLY EXPOSURE IS BEST Have classical music playing in your home, just in the background, to create a nice atmosphere. Consider telling your kids something simple about the music, such as the composer’s name, the orchestra’s name, or the country that the music is from. Or simply ask them how it makes them feel, or offer your

他們對古典樂產生較負面的感受，進而排斥。我們要做的僅僅是播下種子。在家放古典音樂不需要花一毛錢。可以試試播放地區性的古典樂電臺，如果沒有的話，網路上也有很多免費的音樂串流資源。比如，費城的 WRTI 廣播電臺有很棒的網站。費城是美國頂尖古典樂團─ ─ 費城管弦樂團（The Philadelphia Orchestra) ─ ─的根據地。 │57

own comments on it, such as, “Doesn’t this sound like birds chirping?” or the like. Don’t turn it into a high-pressure situation for your kids, of course. Otherwise, their associations with the genre may not be entirely positive. You’re just planting seeds. There’s no need to spend any money to play the music. You might have a local classical station you like tuning into, but if not, there are a lot of great free resources for online streaming. Here are a couple of recommendations. Philadelphia’s WRTI radio website is a wonderful station, out of the home city of one of America’s top orchestras. And YourClassical.org is a website with not only excellent online streaming, but a great kids’ section.

而 YourClassical.org 不僅是個良好的線上音樂串流平臺，網站上也有豐富的學習資源。尋找友善孩童的音樂會也許您的孩子還沒有準備好欣賞一場長達兩、三個小時、演奏完整曲目的交響音樂會，同時，您也擔心孩子會不會因此失去了及早接觸古典樂的機會。對此無須過度擔心，仍有許多其他的場合能解決此問題。事實上，有不少音樂活動會演出較短的曲目（當然這也取決於您的所在地區），同樣能引人入勝且令人難忘。雖然在家觀賞演奏影片也很不錯，但親身體驗，更能給孩子留下深刻的印象。夏季是個尋找小型音樂會的絕佳時機，很多演出甚至是免費的。許多城鎮會在夏季舉辦公園音樂會或草地音樂會，上網就能找到相關資訊。這些音樂會可能是很

ATTEND KID-FRIENDLY CONCERTS OK, your kids may not be ready for a full-length symphony concert, and maybe you’re worried about having missed the “early exposure” window. No problem—there are a lot of opportunities to address that. You’ll be surprised (depending, of course, on where you live) at how many concerts are available that are short, memorable, and engaging. And while videos are great, in-person experiences will leave a much deeper impression, of course. Summer is an excellent time to find shorter concerts in your area, many of which may be free. A lot of towns and cities have concerts in the park that you can learn about just by looking up information online. These can be simple ones of, say, brass ensembles playing more crowd-pleasing tunes or of a full orchestra giving a family-friendly outdoor performance. Do a search, and you’ll probably find some great options. There may even be something before your local July 4 fireworks display. Even though I grew up being taken to many, many concerts, sometimes involving family as performers, and even in great halls, one of my favorite memories is of a casual one in a park. It was next to a river with a small brass band playing in a gazebo. The intimate nature of the setting and the liveliness of the music— I believe performed by seniors—brought so much joy that I think it’s something I’ll carry with me forever.

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輕鬆、隨性的，例如小型的銅管合奏團演出一些輕音樂，也可能有一些由正式交響樂團規劃，以家庭為導向的戶外演出。平時上網多加搜尋，將會發現更多不同的選擇，有些演出地點很可能就在您的社區。配合節日搜尋，也是一個好方法：如 7 月 4 日國慶煙火施放之前等場合。雖然在我成長的過程中，被家人帶著參加各式音樂會，有時也會去家人參與的正式演出，但令我印象最深刻的，卻是一場非正式的公園音樂會——位在河邊涼亭的小型銅管樂團演奏。如此閒情、舒適的氣氛，加上這群老人家演奏的輕快音樂，給聽眾帶來了一段歡快的時光，也成為永久留在我心底無法忘懷的記憶。儘管這類演出不全然是古典樂為主，但讓孩子親眼看見樂手演奏這些會出現在交響樂團裡的古典樂器，能在孩子腦海裡留下印象。然而，有些民間樂器演出，或咖啡店式的音樂演出，在我的經驗中，儘管很愉快，卻無法對音樂打下堅實基礎。除了夏季音樂會或公園音樂會，其他的文化活動，如啤酒節（要特別注意飲酒問題！）、波卡慶典、烏克蘭慶典等活動，也是讓孩子接觸音樂的好機會。在此類的慶典活動中，可以看到樂手演奏古典樂器，也有人穿著傳統服飾跳民間舞，對孩子而言，是很好的沉浸式文化體驗。值得注意的是，有些地區性的交響管弦樂團，可能也會為孩子們舉辦演奏會，也有許多管弦樂團演奏廣受喜愛的電影配樂。例如，在網上很容易可以找到 2018 年由休斯頓交響樂團演奏電影《哈利波特與密室》配樂的影片。休斯頓交響樂團網站為電影配樂下了絕佳的

Note that these concerts might not always be classical in nature. But exposure to people playing classical instruments—the ones you find in a symphony orchestra—is all a part of gradually leaving that impression on your child’s mind. Folk concerts involving guitars or coffee-house-style concerts, while pleasant, won’t quite lay the same groundwork, in my experience. Another source for these, beyond summertime or local park concerts, is cultural festivals such as Oktoberfest (you should watch out for any over-the-top drinking!), polka festivals, Ukrainian festivals, and so on. Often, you’ll find people playing classical instruments accompanying folk dance performed in traditional dress. This can be a great experience for kids on many levels. Your local symphony orchestra likely has kidoriented concerts to offer, so these are worthwhile to look into, too. And there’s the ever-more-popular genre of concerts involving live orchestras accompanying film. Online, there’s a very helpful description of what this sort of experience is like from the Houston Symphony Orchestra when it performed live to Harry Potter and the Chamber of Secrets in 2018. Their website says it well: “If you have ever watched part of a movie on mute, you know that without music, scary scenes aren’t as scary, and happy endings aren’t as happy.” In this sort of performance, the film appears on a large screen behind a full orchestra, which is generally on a stage as opposed to being in an orchestra pit, and the orchestra plays the complete movie score as the film is shown. Imagine how precise the timing of the music must be to make this work! By opening your children’s ears with fresh appreciation, they may never experience a movie quite the same way again.

it online, and you might just find it being performed by an orchestra near you. KEEP IT LIGHT Whatever the experience you choose, be sure to keep it light and fun, especially for young children. Reserve the tiger-mom attitude for getting your kid to practice a classical instrument, which is a different matter altogether. But if practicing isn’t the current focus, then just remember that classical music is a divine gift, and allowing your children to experience it and have it penetrate their heart and being is a beautiful thing— something that may stay with them forever.

註解：「曾以靜音看過任何電影片段的人都會知道，少了配樂，緊張片段變得不那麼緊張，快樂結局也少了些快樂。」通常在這類演出中，樂團不是在樂池中，而是在舞臺上，樂團後方的大螢幕會投影電影的片段，而樂團演奏的音樂則會搭配著電影畫面。想想看，這需要多麼精準地將音樂和畫面相互配合！這會讓孩子從此對電影配樂的印象改觀，讓他們能夠打開雙耳，用全新的視野欣賞電影。選擇孩子也能欣賞的樂曲有些古典樂作品是特地為了培養孩子的音樂素養而作的。英國作曲家班傑明布里頓所寫的《給年輕人的管弦樂團指南》，即是至今仍深受推崇的此類作品之一。此曲於 1946年完成，奠基於一段來自1695年的樂曲。網路上很容易找到《給年輕人的管弦樂團指南》的錄音，您目前所在地的管弦樂團，也可能正在演出這些作品。維持輕鬆的心態無論你為孩子鋪設什麼樣的路通向古典音樂，記得要把

CHOOSE KID-ORIENTED TUNES There are several classical pieces that were written specifically for educating children on the genre. Still considered the gold standard for this purpose is Benjamin Britten’s “The Young Person’s Guide to the Orchestra,” which, while written in 1946, is based on a tune from 1695. You can easily find recordings of

握輕鬆和有趣的原則，特別是對年幼的孩子而言。把虎媽態度留到孩子開始練樂器的時候，這又是完全不同的面向了。倘若現在不以練樂器為導向，那麼務必記得，古典音樂是天賜的禮物，僅僅讓孩子有機會體驗、讓音樂流淌於心，便是一樁好事，且是一樁能在他們心中永遠留存的美事。

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Lladró Features New Creative Concept in Manhattan Store 「雅緻」概念店新張 By Xiaofei Wang Pictures courtesy of Lladró

panish porcelain brand Lladró is recharged and ready to take on the world. Its newest retail store recently opened in Manhattan’s lively Meatpacking District. The new concept store is divided into three sections to showcase exclusive designs in chandeliers, tabletop lamps, decorative sculptures, home fragrances, and

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西班牙知名瓷器品牌「Lladró」（中譯「雅緻」）在疫情結束後，帶著新的氣象從新開張。店址選在曼哈頓新興社區米特帕金區（Meatpacking District）。「雅緻」總裁 Ana Rodrígue在新聞發布會上表示：「新概念店開張正值Lladró成立70週年，展現Lladró一直以來致力於復興和創新的陶瓷藝術，通過這全新的空間，使人與瓷器間產生情感上的互動。」

Above and right : Lladró's

sculptures are famed for their elongated lines and delicate pastels.

Above and left page: Lladró's Manhattan store is the first in the United States to realize the brand’s new

concept.

contemporary jewelry. From timeless masterpieces to avant-garde designs—there is something for everyone at Lladró. Ana Rodriguez, CEO of Lladró, announced during the press conference: “The launch of this new concept store, which coincides with the brand’s 70th anniversary, responds to our mission to continue revitalizing porcelain, delving into its most innovative creative possibilities, and to making it known through experiential spaces like this one in which emotional connections are generated.” Interior designer Carmen Baselga created a welcoming ambiance with soft lines and gentle tones of peach, green sage, and sand. And Lladró’s team of engineers combined art with technology to provide visual, sound, tactile, and olfactory stimulations to generate an interactive dialogue between the product and its viewer. World-renowned for its masterful creations and meticulous attention to detail, Lladró has been handcrafting luxury porcelains since 1953. All its products are made in its Valencia factory—the only one in the world.

Founded by three brothers in 1953, Lladró is a world leader in the design, manufacturing, and distribution of porcelain art creations.

概念店共分做三個區域，分別展示 Lladró 品牌獨家設計的陶瓷吊燈、臺燈、雕塑、香氛器皿、以及珠寶。展廳的空間色彩選用了——桃紅、灰綠和淡褐色，與展示瓷器的顏色柔和地融為一體。新店還特別採用新科技，利用燈光和四維聲響在背景和整體空間，營造一個溫馨和安靜的環境，令人忘卻身處都會裡的喧囂。展示的瓷器作品中，風格多樣，有典雅傳統的設計，也有現代感十足的物件，小到香氛器皿，大到豪華吊燈，以滿足喜好各異的顧客群。 Lladró 的品牌經營，一路走來從容而細緻，誠如其名，至今作品仍在西班牙瓦倫西亞（Valencia ）市內手工生產，採用古老的技藝和品牌獨特的上色過程，由工匠、雕塑家和藝術家傾注一心打造而成。

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Enter a World of Artistry, Culture, and Vision Shen Yun Zuo Pin: New video platform inspires, entertains, and uplifts

啟迪人心寓教於樂頂級藝術家攜手打造新興影視平臺「神韻作品」

By Leeshai Lemish

udience members who loved their Shen Yun experience no longer need to wait a year for Shen Yun to return. A robust streaming platform has now opened up a world of artistic beauty, wholesomeness, and humor and made it available on demand. The online platform is called Shen Yun Zuo Pin, which translates as “Shen Yun Creations.” It features more than 600 videos and counting. These include past favorite dance performances from Shen Yun’s archives, Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra concerts, never-before-seen dance stories, and all-original mini-operas. The platform also hosts instructional videos, master classes, vocal music, interviews with Shen Yun stars, and comical movie shorts. For years, audience members have been asking for DVDs they could take home with them. This online

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喜愛神韻藝術團的觀眾，不需再等待一年才能欣賞演出了。前年（2021），「神韻作品」網路影片點播平臺問世，為您呈現一個充滿高雅文化藝術、有益身心、充滿歡笑與美的影音世界，讓您在家也能觀賞劇院般高品質的神韻節目。「神韻作品」影音平臺現有數百部影片，各式節目仍陸續在平臺釋出。影片包括神韻過去演出中最受歡迎的舞蹈節目、交響樂、室內音樂會、舞劇，以及原創小歌劇，此外還有教學影片、大師班授課系列、聲樂、神韻演員專訪和喜劇短片等。多年來，觀眾們引領企盼神韻推出光碟，而「神韻作品」回應了觀眾數年來的支持與期待。該平臺內容豐富，老少咸宜，從藝術團粉絲、藝術愛好者，到專業舞蹈家、歌唱家和音樂家，都能在此有所收穫。從平臺開設以來，最受歡迎的三部影片分別為原創歌劇《王允施計除董卓》、《神韻身帶手胯帶腿身韻身法技術展示》和小舞劇《龍門客棧後傳》。

hub for all things Shen Yun is the answer, with content for a wide range of audiences, from avid fans and arts aficionados to children and aspiring dancers, singers, and musicians. The three most popular videos so far are the original opera The Stratagem, A Showcase of Shen Yun Dance Techniques 2021, and the dance mini-drama Dragon Gate Lodge.

闔家都愛的神韻首創歌劇去年秋季錄製的神韻原創四幕歌劇《王允施計除董卓》，是神韻藝術團首度發布的歌劇創作。故事背景為漢朝末年，講述王允巧施妙計，智除奸臣董卓的歷史傳奇。主演貂蟬的女歌唱家宇鳴表示：「神韻歌劇是用正統美聲（Bel Canto）演唱中文歌曲，與京劇唱法不同。該劇劇情緊湊，角色刻畫清晰；音樂、歌詞、服裝、舞蹈與天幕背景是全新打造，並配有中英文字幕，幫助觀眾更理解歌劇內容。」她進一步分享：「這部歌劇之所以讓

THE STRATAGEM OPERA Recorded in the fall of 2022, The Stratagem is a groundbreaking Shen Yun original opera. Set during the waning days of the Han Dynasty, it tells of a beauty trap brilliantly employed to get rid of a tyrant. “The Shen Yun opera is sung in bel canto, so it’s nothing like the Peking opera [that] people might associate with Chinese singing,” said Rachael Yu Ming Bastick, who starred in the principal role of Diao Chan. “It’s straightforward, and each character is portrayed clearly. The music, lyrics, costumes, backdrop— everything’s completely original. And, yes, there are English subtitles. What makes the opera so enjoyable to watch is that it’s both so lyrical and informative. It’s such a unique way for the audience to learn and understand a story directly,” she said. Not only for adults, The Stratagem has become a hit with the young crowd, too. One father recently shared that his 4-year-old son has watched it so many times that the boy has it memorized. “As parents, we’re always trying to find quality content for our kids to watch,” the father wrote. “Here we have a safe platform where we know they’re getting something that’s good for them and learning and enjoying themselves at the same time. We can’t thank you enough!”

人看得如此著迷，是因它既抒情，也傳達了豐富的歷史文化內涵，讓觀眾觀劇賞樂，體驗中華傳統的藝術之美。」此作老少咸宜，不僅深受成年人青睞，也備受青少年以及孩童喜愛。一位觀眾反饋分享了其 4 歲的兒子重複觀賞無數遍，記住了所有內容與橋段。他還寫道：「作為父母，我們一直努力為孩子尋找優質又健康的內容。今天我們找到『神韻作品』線上影音平臺，它既安全又能提升修養與技能，寓教於樂。我們對你們（神韻影音平臺）感激不盡！」此外，神韻藝術團的現場演奏——神韻交響樂團，一直以來也是觀眾心頭所好，「神韻作品」當然也涵蓋了音樂作品門類，其中有神韻的原創音樂和經典名曲現場演奏等。中國古典舞失傳的身法技術再現另一支熱門影片是《神韻身帶手胯帶腿身韻身法技術展示》。 15分鐘的節目，展示了在當今社會早已失傳的舞蹈身法之最高境界——身帶手，胯帶腿，神韻舞蹈演員一氣呵成地展現各種身韻、身法與技巧組合，行雲流水，讓人賞心悅目，心潮澎湃。在另一項《中國古典舞技術技巧》系列節目中，神韻的舞蹈演員帶您領略中國古典舞技中，最富代表性的一部分，並逐一介紹動作要領，講解如何練習、掌握這些技術、技巧。對於舞蹈專業人士和舞蹈愛好者來講，「神韻作品」是一項非常有價值的新資源。該平臺也分享了飛天大學舞蹈系考試錄像、中國古典舞大賽金獎得主的參賽

HIGH-FLYING FLIPS Another of the top three videos on the platform is the A Showcase of Shen Yun Dance Techniques. It is 15 minutes of nonstop breathtaking aerials, flips, spins, jumps, and layouts. These showcase videos, of which there are several, are so motivating that it’s hard to watch them without wanting to get up and do

劇目，以及中國舞一系列的基本功訓練教程等。此外，神韻領舞演員王琛在其專屬頻道「王琛說舞蹈」中，循序地娓娓道來中國古典舞的來龍去脈。歷年經典之作輕鬆趣味合集除卻上述專業內容，該平臺也有了許多別具啟發的民間故事和輕鬆小品。如《龍門客棧後傳》，這支小舞劇以北

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尚在龍門客棧的際遇，詼諧幽默的同時，寓有深意，表現出信仰的力量和善惡有報的真理。在熱門系列影片《舞蹈三劍客》頻道中，由三位神韻舞蹈演員主持，以第一人稱視角，紀錄了神韻多年演出的幕後花絮和演員日常生活，首次揭祕計世界頂級藝術團的幕後祕辛。節目主持之一的蒲彧（Sam Pu）說：「很少人知道我們在舞臺下的生活是什麼樣，我們的短片提供了一個內部視角，非常適合該平臺觀眾，它提供了在網路上其他地方都找不著的獨家內容。」神韻粉絲都知道，神韻每年會推出一套全新的節目，但當巡迴結束後，所有的故事和舞蹈都會隨之而去。而「神韻作品」提供了讓人們進一步了解藝術團、重溫其早期節目的首次機會。蒲彧分享，「我非常喜歡回顧早期的神韻節目，當初我在劇院觀賞時，激起了我習舞的願望和決心。若不是有了『神韻作品』，這些珍貴的節目，無論你付多少錢，都無法再看到它們。」早期神韻節目中，有《武松打虎》、《梅花》、《秦王鼓吏》等，都是經典熱門之作，還有其餘上百部作品，等待您親自探索。

something remarkable. In another video series, The Technical Moves of Classical Chinese Dance, Shen Yun’s principal dancers introduce the techniques one at a time, breaking down the training for these moves and what it takes to perform them well. And there is much more for dance lovers—recordings of annual dance exams, dance competition videos, and a series of foundational training routines. Shen Yun star Angelia Wang has her own video channel there—Angelia on Dance. STORIES TO INDULGE IN A major segment of the platform consists of stories and lighter content, like Dragon Gate Lodge. This dance story humorously tells a historic episode involving defiant Buddhist monks, a tale enhanced by special effects and a dose of slapstick. You can watch dance props come to life, a black-and-white rendition of Charlie Chaplin (Looking for Work), and even

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Finnish elves (Finnish Elf Dance Challenge). New videos are constantly being added. There’s also an entire library of behind-the-scenes footage courtesy of three Shen Yun dancers who call themselves the “Three Musketeers.” They publish episodes with topics such as how Shen Yun dancers are perfectly synchronized and a day in the life of a Shen Yun dancer. “Few people know what our lives are like off-stage,” Musketeer Sam Pu said. “Our channel offers this inside view. And it fits in nicely with the platform because it offers exclusive classical Chinese dance and music content that can’t be found anywhere else on the web.” As many longtime fans likely know, Shen Yun premieres an all-new production every year. Once a tour ended, however, the stories and dances were no longer available. But Shen Yun’s artistic team diligently recorded every production along the way, and now Shen Yun has made them public. “I really enjoy watching the early Shen Yun pieces,” Sam Pu said. “These are the ones that actually inspired me to start dancing when I saw them in the theater, and up until recently, they were so exclusive, you wouldn’t have had access to them no matter how much money you paid.” Among the Early Shen Yun Pieces are favorites like Wu Song Battles the Tiger, Plum Blossom, Tang Imperial Drummers, and a hundred others. MUSICAL COLLECTION The platform further includes a vast music library with both original works and classical masterpieces performed by the Shen Yun Symphony Orchestra. “On the one hand, the platform has entertainment— video recordings of our dance program, Symphony Orchestra, short films, etcetera,” longtime Shen Yun conductor Milen Nachev said. “And on the other hand, you have the educational aspect, including interviews, master classes, and dance training. “It’s enriching and relaxing, and is wonderfully abundant.” To explore the platform, visit ShenYunZuoPin.com

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