Elite Lifestyle Magazine: Issue 60

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E L I TE 時 尚 精 英

保養特輯 創業故事 藝文賞析 美國旅遊

Creating a Better Future for American Wool JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2023

永續牧場「 軟 」實力

An Artist's Beautiful Hilltop Estate 歐蘭那——藝術家的美麗家園

A Unique Castle, an American Story 遊賓州方特希爾城堡

CELEBRATE

Rabbit

the year of the ISSUE 60




目錄 CONTENTS

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Editor’s Pick: A Treasure Hunt for Lucky Bunnies

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Art Inspiration: Décor Galore

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What You Need to Know About Facial Moisturizers

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Why Cold Weather Causes Colds

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The Story Behind Those Iconic Tins A family tea brand: Harney and Sons

編輯精選:福兔迎春 編輯精選:氣韻滿堂

告別沙漠肌 臉部保溼要略

為何「冷天」致病? 冬日養生之道

家族創業記——美國茶葉品牌Harney & Sons

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Shaniko Wool Company: Spinning a Better Future for American Wool 美國「軟」實力——俄勒岡綿羊牧場的永續願景

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Picture Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Revamping Your Space With Rugs

氛圍調理大師——地毯

Olana: An Artist’s Beautiful Estate on the Hudson River

風景名畫家的最後巨作——山坡上的「歐蘭那」

A Treat for Valentines Meet the Chefs: Genevieve Gergis and Ori Menashe

情人節小品:洛杉磯名廚夫婦快問快答

COVER Rabbit and Roses, by Mori Ransai, Japanese painter in 18th century, Edo period.

Award-Winning Interior Designer Ashely Liu: A Fulfilling Life

臺裔室內設計師劉唯亭:後悔不是一種選擇

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A Unique Pennsylvania Castle Embodies the American Spirit

奇特的賓州城堡巡禮

Event: The Fifth Anniversary of the Taiwanese Junior Chamber of Commerce of New York 活動特寫:紐約臺灣青商會五周年晚宴


advanced formula

Your skin at its very best Sisley unveils the advanced formula of its universal skin care and worldwide bestseller. Rebalanced and revitalized, the skin feels more resilient and the complexion looks more radiant. Available February 2023.

Bergdorf Goodman, Bloomingdale’s, Cosbar, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue Discover more at sisley-paris.com


華麗地毯 窗簾墻紙中心

PRESIDENT

PUBLISHER

Dana Chang

Ellen Wang

EDITORIAL EDITOR IN CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR PROFILE EDITOR

QUEENS CARPETONE CORP.

Channaly Philipp Astrid Wang Annie Wu

FOOD EDITOR

Crystal Shi

ARTS EDITORS

Sharon Kilarski Jennifer Schneider

全美最大的家庭裝飾連鎖公司 Carpet One Floor & Home 唯一華人成員

BEAUTY EDITOR HOME EDITOR EDITORS-AT-LARGE CONTRIBUTORS

Ida Pink Sunny Lo Cora Wang Jennifer Tseng Ann Lin Conan Milner Eric Lucas Bob Kirchman Matthew John Wang Xiao Fei

TRANSLATORS

Ling Lin Jenny Han

COPY EDITORS

Louise Rothman Huixuan Yang

SALES SALES DIRECTOR

CREATIVE

地毯 | 窗簾 | 牆紙 | 地板

LEAD DESIGNER DESIGNERS

華麗地毯窗簾牆紙中心 是您的最佳選擇

Karen Tang Hsinyu Lo Fu Chen

ADDRESS 229 W 28th Street, 7FL, New York, NY 10001

QUEENS CARPETONE CORP.

PHONE 646-862-9930

for your perfect FLOOR & HOME

EMAIL editor@elite-magazine.com

大量現貨 歡迎設計師洽談合作 電話:718-460-1161 電郵: qcarpetone@gmail.com 地址: 18-13 128th Street ,College Point , NY 11356 www.queenscarpetonecollegepoint.com

Jo Yang

advertising@elite-magazine.com subscription@elite-magazine.com www.elite-magazine.com

San Francisco

Los Angeles

Boston

Seattle

Ke Bian 510-299-4392

Yan Lieser 818-836-2937

Timothy Pi 617-388-1688

Echo Liu 425-877-5121


EDITOR’S PICK

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PHOTOS BY PIAGET, MINAMOTO KITCHOAN, SCULLY & SCULLY, BURKEDECOR, KIRKLANDS, BACCARAT, WILLIAMS-SONOMA AND HARRY WINSTON.

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A Treasure Hunt for Lucky Bunnies 福兔迎春 In China, rabbits are thought to be auspicious animals that bring good luck to all who encounter them. Even in the West, these gentle critters are symbols of prosperity and new beginnings. As we ring in 2023, the Chinese year of the rabbit, may these cuddly furballs inspire you to leap to new joy, love, and hope for the future.

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在傳統中國典故中,兔 為瑞 獸,在 民間傳 說中,兔也常作為 神 祇,就

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像在月宮的玉兔,祥吉美意淵遠流 長。 而 在 早 春 時 節 的 西 方 復 活 節 中,一說因兔子多產,有豐饒 的 寓 意,因而作為節日的象徵。 兔年之春,可謂喜上 加喜,不 妨在一年之初讓兔子身影在家中蹦 跳,為生活添喜。

1 HARRY WINSTON, PREMIER CHINESE NEW YEAR AUTOMATIC 36 MM, 18K ROSE GOLD, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, HARRYWINSTON.COM | 2 YORK WALLCOVERINGS, BOTANICAL BUNNIES PINK PEEL & STICK WALLPAPER, 27 INCHES WIDE BY 20 FEET LONG, $65, BURKEDECOR.COM | 3 SCULLY & SCULLY, MEDIEVAL ANIMAL TAPESTRY RABBIT PILLOWS, $135, SCULLYANDSCULLY.COM | 4 KIRKLAND’S HOME, SWEET BUNNY SALAD PLATES, SET OF FOUR, $29.99, KIRKLANDS.COM | 5 MINAMOTO KITCHOAN, USAGI SAN 10-PIECE BOX, $38, KITCHOAN.COM | 6 PIAGET, ALTIPLANO ZODIAC WATCH, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, PIAGET.COM | 7 BACCARAT, CLEAR RABBIT 2023, $200, US.BACCARAT.COM

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序 EDITOR’S NOTE 給夢想一些時間

新的一年,我們都想許願,但在許願之外,別忘了給它一些時間。 「 放羊和澆水——這個簡單的公式,讓人類能夠吃飽穿暖,超過一萬年之 久……」位於俄勒岡州帝國牧場主人說。不求速成,遵循自然的規律, 大自然就會給予最大的回報。為了創造永續羊毛產業,一群牧羊人、農 場主正在我們看不見的土地上,默默耕耘、改變,也有越來越多人加入 他們的行列。 來自臺灣的室內設計師劉亭唯,原本只是一名留學生,從未想過踏上紐 約這趟旅程後,顛覆她原先對世界的想像,她穩紮穩打地累積實力, 最終成了一名成績亮眼的新銳設計師。紐約的現實,帶給她一連串的挑 戰,也帶給她發亮的舞臺。「 我是一個不喜歡後悔的人 」憑著如此人生 態度,她如乘上火箭,向前飛躍。 歷史地標建築「 歐蘭那 」(Olana),是美國著名風景畫家弗雷德里克 · 丘奇(Frederic Church)生前最後一次大型的創作。為了讓愛宅能融 於山河之景,以自然為畫布,在紐約哈德遜河谷的山坡上展開創作。在 不破壞地景的前提之下,他和數名景觀專家聯手規劃,並用生活歲月, 悉心布置家園,豐沛的情感流淌在家園的每一個角落。不僅有美學,更 有人情味。 位於賓州的方特希爾城堡,與我們過去對城堡的印象大不相同,風格奇 特迥異,讓人聯想到宮崎駿《霍爾的移動城堡》。霍爾運用魔法,打造 一座可以隨其活動的城堡,城堡裡的所有構造,都反映了霍爾的內心世 界。而這座方特希爾城堡有異曲同工之妙,建築內部的一磚一瓦,多是 由城堡主人亨利 · 查普曼 · 默瑟(Henry Chapman Mercer)手工製成, 彷彿被賦予生命,細細欣賞便能看見城堡主人畢生的心思。儘管在建造 之初,不乏嘲笑之人,但他憑其一己之力,完成整座城堡的建築設計。 至今,人們仍讚歎這神奇的建造。 新的一年,不妨給您的心願一些時間,只要持續前行,肯定會有所收穫。

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神韻的線上影音平台

舞蹈•音樂會•歌劇 大師課•短視頻•幕後花絮 現在就觀賞

ShenYunZuoPin.com


Admiring the porcelain by Édouard Frédéric Wilhelm Richter (French, 1844-1913) , 1885.


EDITOR’S PICK

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Décor Galore 氣韻滿堂 Getting ready to welcome the new year? Spruce up your home with décor inspired by the classic colors and patterns of ancient China for a sense of understated charm and grace. Or if you prefer a more regal style, try these richly ornamented pieces reminiscent of the Victorian era. Their delicately embossed lines are sure to give off an air of luxury and elegance. 中國風的色澤紋飾,以及維多利亞風格的浮雕線條,都 PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY ROCHE BOBOIS, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, 1STDIBS, JESSICA CHARLES, UNSPLASH AND BURKE DECOR.

有繁複細節勾勒而成的奢華優雅。新年之初,不妨在家 中添購此類風格飾品,替空間增添華貴與雍容感。

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1 MOTTAHEDEH, IMPERIAL BLUE PORCELAIN DINNER PLATE, $110, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 2 JULISKA, PURO CHAMBRAY CEREAL/ICE CREAM BOWL, $28, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM | 3 19TH CENTURY ANTIQUE FRENCH GOLD GILT LOUIS PHILIPPE MIRROR WITH CREST, $3,536.24 (PRICE MAY FLUCTUATE), 1STDIBS.COM | 4 EICHHOLTZ, ARMAND VASE, $3,162.5, BURKEDECOR.COM | 5 ROCHE BOBOIS, SAXE DRESSER, PRICE UPON REQUEST, ROCHE-BOBOIS.COM | 6 JESSICA CHARLES, 830 ROUND OTTOMAN, PRICE UPON REQUEST, JESSICACHARLES.COM

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ELITE BEAUTY

Keep the Desert Away !

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT FACIAL MOISTURIZERS 告別沙漠肌 臉部保溼要略 By Ida Pink

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rowsing through stores looking for moisturizers can be challenging, given the wide range of options. The difference between hydrators and moisturizers can also make it confusing, as it is often not well understood. These basics will help you navigate the field. HYDRATING VERSUS MOISTURIZING There is a difference between hydrating and moisturizing the skin. Hydrating provides the skin with moisture while moisturizing helps the skin to retain moisture, prevent water loss, and reinforce the skin’s barrier function. Both are important, as they work in tandem to provide soft, supple, and protected skin. Facial moisturizers can be divided into three general categories: humectants, occlusives, and emollients.

護膚保養商品琳琅滿目,要找到適合的保溼產品可不是 件容易的事。由於選擇範圍廣泛,而且各項產品中,還有 補水與保溼的功效差異,這兩種常見的標示也讓人困惑, 民眾通常不清楚兩者的區別。下面介紹一些基本原則,希 望能幫助您在選擇時有個明確方向。 補水 vs 保溼 為肌膚補水和保溼是兩回事——補水是提供肌膚水分, 而保溼是幫助肌膚留住水分、預防水分流失,並強化肌膚 屏障。兩者都很重要,在它們共同作用下,肌膚能夠保持 柔軟、增加適應力與維持防禦力。 臉 部 保 溼 產 品 主 要 可 分 為 三 大 類:溼 潤 性 保 溼 (humectant)、封閉性保溼(occlusive)和潤膚性保溼 (emollient)。

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• Humectants: Hydro

gels, gel creams, oil-free moisturizers, and creams that list water as the first ingredient are humectants that draw in moisture. They absorb quickly, and the texture is typically lightweight and thin. They tend to be perfect for oily skin but also work for all skin types, and their light texture makes them ideal for summertime. Products such as essence, toners, and watery serums also fall under the category of hydrating humectants.

• 溼潤性保溼:常見的溼潤性保溼產品如凝膠、水凝霜、

無 油 的 清爽 型 保溼,還有成分標 示 把 水列 在 第一項 的乳液等等,這些產品具吸水力,能為表層肌膚抓住

• Occlusives: These

moisturizers have a thick and creamy texture, and they seal water into the skin. They are perfect for dry, extra dry, or inflamed skin and are also ideal wintertime choices for drier skin types. Typical ingredients include lanolin, rosehip oil, and avocado oil, to name a few. Emollient serums, face oils, and creamy moisturizers fall under the category of moisturizing occlusives (Tip: Pair with a humectant to get the maximum result).

水分,它們可以 迅 速被肌膚吸收,質地薄透輕盈。這 類 產 品 往往 最 適 合 油 性 肌 膚,也 適 用於 各 種 膚 質, 清爽的質地也很適合在夏天使用。市面上看到的精華 (essence)、化妝水(toner)、質地偏水狀的精華液 (serum)也會被歸類於補水的溼潤性保溼產品。 • 封閉性保溼:這個類型的保溼產品通常有著濃稠、乳液

狀的質地,能覆蓋肌膚表層開口,讓水分不易蒸發。適 用於乾性、極度乾燥或發炎的肌膚,對冬天容易乾燥 的膚質來說也是很好的選擇。封閉性保溼常見的成分

• Emollients: Richer

balms and creams are emollients that are thicker in texture than creams, and they are great options for dry skin, as they help repair compromised skin barriers. Typical ingredients in emollient moisturizers are, for example, shea butter, cocoa butter, and olive oil.

包括羊毛脂(lanolin)、玫瑰果油(rosehip oil)和酪 梨油(avocado oil)⋯⋯等等,保溼精華液、臉部精 華油和乳液都屬於此類( 建議:與溼潤性保溼產品搭 配使用,可以發揮最好的保溼效果)。 •

潤膚性保溼:滋潤性較高的精油膏和乳霜就屬於潤膚 性保溼產品,它們的質地通常會比乳液更加厚重,能 夠 幫忙修復受損 的肌 膚屏 障,也 是 對 乾 性 肌 膚很 好 的選擇。典型的潤膚性保溼成分有乳油木果油(shea butter)、 可 可 油(cocoa butter) 和 橄 欖 油(olive oil)等等。 簡而言之,溼潤性保溼為肌膚最表層補充水分,封

閉性保溼將表層肌膚封住,以防止水分流失,而潤膚性 保溼能填補肌膚縫隙,以達到修護效果。 只要記住一些關鍵字,選擇產品時就會很有幫助。 如果看到標示補充水分(hydration)字樣的,通常表示 這是溼潤性保溼產品,若是標示保溼(moisture)等字 樣的,就大多是封閉性保溼產品。另一個實用的指標是, │11


dehydrated skin, it is not caused by a lack of water. It is caused by dry skin not having the ability to produce enough oil and the subsequent tendency to experience more epidermal water loss (evaporation of water from the skin). Dry skin can occur due to age, genetics, hormones, and external factors. So, hydrating is typically necessary for people with dehydrated skin, while moisturizing is necessary for people with dry skin. But whether your skin is dry or dehydrated, it is important to use both humectants and occlusives, as we all need both types to ensure that the skin’s lipid barrier functions correctly. Use layering to get the benefits of both hydrating and moisturizing skin care products. Apply humectants like hyaluronic acid first to provide the skin with a surge of water. Then follow up with an occlusive moisturizer to lock in the moisture. 補水的產品擦起來通溼常感覺較 輕 透,容易被肌膚吸

In a nutshell, humectants absorb water and draw moisture into the top layer of the skin, occlusives seal the top layer of the skin to prevent water loss, and emollients protect and trap in moisture by filling the skin cracks. When looking for products, it can be helpful to remember that the word hydration typically indicates that it is a humectant, whereas moisture suggests that it is an occlusive. Another useful indicator is that hydrators are thin and absorb easier and deeper into the skin, and moisturizers are thicker and stay on the skin’s surface. Sometimes what we need also depends on external conditions, such as the weather. For example, during winters with dry indoor heating and freezing temperatures, use fewer humectants and more occlusives. Just a hydrating serum or a light lotion is often enough in the summer (especially if it is very hot). And for humid climates, oil-free moisturizers are great.

收;保鎖水的產品,質地比較濃稠,擦的時候通常會停 留在肌膚表面。 有時,我們需要的產品也會因外在條件而改變,例 如天氣狀況。舉例來說,冬天室內因暖氣而非常乾燥, 室外則是極冷的低溫,這期間應減少使用溼潤性保溼產 品,多用封閉式保溼產品,防止肌膚水分蒸發過多。夏 天期間( 特別是天氣極度炎熱的時候),通常只要擦個 保溼精華液,或是清爽型的乳液就足夠了,若所在地區 為潮溼氣候,則適合使用無油的保溼產品。 缺水肌膚 vs 乾性肌膚 對乾性 肌 膚 或缺水肌 膚的人而言,了解 兩者的差異尤 其重要。缺水肌膚是皮膚水分不足造成,通常會感到緊 繃、暗沉,是各種膚質都有可能經歷的肌膚狀況;乾性 肌膚容易局部脫皮,有時會泛紅,但不同於缺水肌膚, 乾性肌膚不是缺乏水分導致的,而是因為乾性肌膚無法 自然分泌足夠的油脂,也因此表皮水分更容易流失( 肌 膚的水分容易蒸發掉)。乾性肌膚的成因,有可能是年 齡、基因、荷爾蒙或外部因素影響。 所以,對缺水肌膚的人來說,補水程序是不可或缺

DEHYDRATED VERSUS DRY SKIN For those with dry or dehydrated skin, it can be important to know the difference between the two. Dehydrated skin tends to feel tight and look dull and is mainly caused by a lack of water. People with all skin types can experience dehydrated skin. Dry skin is often patchy, flaky, and sometimes red, but unlike 12│

論您是乾性膚質或暫時缺水,重要的是,同時使用溼潤 性及密封性的保溼產品,因為我們的肌膚都需要補水和 鎖水,以確保肌膚皮脂形成的屏障正常運作。 依 序 使 用, 才 能 夠 達 到 補 水 與 保 溼 護 膚 產 品 的 最 佳 效 果。 先 擦 上 一 層 溼 潤 性 保 溼 劑, 如 玻 尿 酸 (hyaluronic acid),為肌膚補滿水分,再使用封閉性 保溼產品幫助鎖水。

IMAGES BY UNSPLASH AND STOCKTRECK.

的,而對乾性肌膚的人來說,保溼鎖水則相當重要。無


Editor’s Picks Hydrators & Moisturizers 補水與保溼產品精選

Avène: Tolerance Control Soothing Skin Recovery Cream This lightweight daily cream helps restore the skin's barrier while soothing redness and tightness. Perfect for extremely sensitive and overreactive skin. ($36, aveneusa.com)

Avène: Thermal Spring Water This thermal water spray hydrates, soothes, softens, and calms the skin. Apply after cleansing the face and before applying serums and creams. It is also great during the day to refresh and add hydration. ($9.50–$18.50, aveneusa.com) Avène: Hydrance Aqua-Gel This multi-purpose hydrating gel provides 24 hours of intense hydration. It fortifies the skin's natural moisturizing and protective barrier, leaving skin hydrated, dewy, and smooth. It can be used as a daily moisturizer and overnight mask, including along the eye contour. ($38, aveneusa.com) │13


Immupure: Daily Eye Face Neck Firming Moisturizer This firming anti-aging moisturizer for all skin types specifically targets the eye, face, and décolleté area, leaving skin visibly rejuvenated. ($255, immupure.com) Immupure: Night Intense Repair and Hydrating Cream This night cream harnesses the antiaging properties of colostrum to hydrate skin and encourage collagen production by up to 400% while also improving the skin tone and PH balance of the skin. ($260, immupure.com)

PCA: ReBalance This nourishing, feather-light textured moisturizer hydrates, calms, and soothes normal to sensitive skin while providing powerful antioxidant protection. ($57, pcaskin.com)

Paula’s Choice: CALM Rescue & Repair Intensive Moisturizer This soothing moisturizer for dry and reactive skin provides 24-hour hydration while calming redness and sensitivity and improving the skin’s barrier. ($33, paulaschoice.com) Paula’s Choice: CALM Rescue & Repair Weightless Moisturizer This lightweight moisturizer instantly soothes and hydrates sensitive oily-to-combination skin while visibly calming any redness. ($33, paulaschoice.com)

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Dr Sebagh: Extreme Maintenance Cream This intense repair moisture-locking ultrarich cream for dry and very dry skin both attracts and retains moisture within the epidermis. ($137, drsebagh.com)

The Organic Pharmacy: Hyaluronic Acid Serum This light, easily absorbed serum for all skin types provides intense hydration with a unique, triple molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

IMAGES BY STOCKTRECK AND ANNA EFETOVA/GETTY IMAGES.

($64, (price may fluctuate), theorganicpharmacy.com)

DERMAdoctor: Kakadu C High Potency Evening Oil This lightweight anti-aging evening oil brightens and replenishes the skin's surface layer with essential fatty acids and restores its natural moisture barrier to aid against water loss and environmental damage. ($76, dermadoctor.com) DERMAdoctor: Kakadu C Face Crème This ultra-rich brightening moisturizer helps revitalize and rejuvenate dehydrated, dull, tired skin. Also perfect for sensitive and mature skin. ($68, dermadoctor.com)

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ELITE HEALTH

Why Cold Weather Causes Colds Protect yourself from winter’s wrath with ancient Chinese wisdom 為何「冷天」致病? 冬日養生之道 By Conan Milner

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冬天是穿厚衣保 暖的季節,也是感冒和流感 盛行的季 節,但是,寒冷的天氣與感冒到底有何關聯? 千百年來,全世界的母親都會告誡自己的孩子:穿 暖和,要不然會感冒!然而,醫學專家們卻認為這是無 稽之談。科學家們曾斷言,溫度降低並不是造成呼吸道 感染上升的原因,而是病毒使然,寒冷只是一個巧合。 那麼,為什麼秋冬季節人容易感冒呢?科學家有此 一說——因為我們待在室內的時間更多了。當同樣多的 空氣在人口稠密的房間裡循環時,人們就會接觸到更多 的病原體,得病機會因此增高。 然而,最近的研究表明,因寒冷而致病的相關性, 比人們過去想像的要大。例如,鼻病毒——最常見的感 冒病毒——在較低的溫度下繁殖更快。雖然現在還沒有 實驗研究證明,寒冷增加患病機率的關聯性,但許多醫

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN RADIANT LIFE MAGAZINE.

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t’s the season for fuzzy sweaters and heavy coats, as well as colds and flu. But what does cold weather have to do with catching a cold? For generations, mothers worldwide have advised bundling up to avoid getting sick. Yet medical experts call the association an old wives' tale. Despite the prevalence of coughs and runny noses during the cold months of the year, scientists assert that a drop in temperature is not responsible for the rise in respiratory infections. It is viruses that cause illness, they contend. Cold is just a coincidence. One explanation for the higher number of colds during fall and winter is that we spend more time indoors. People are packed inside with the windows


closed. As the same old air circulates in a well-populated room, we get more exposure to pathogens, and thus more illness. However, recent discoveries suggest cold plays more of a role in making us sick than previously thought. One example researchers have noted is that rhinoviruses—the most common cause of colds—reproduce more effectively in cooler temperatures. No study has been able to prove that exposure to cold increases the likelihood of illness. Yet for doctors who look beyond the virus explanation, evidence shows that cold may play a pivotal role. According to Dr. Renee Miranda, a physician at the Center for Integrative Medicine at Ohio State University, cold weakens our defenses. “Cold weather is just the straw that breaks the camel's back in terms of having more stress and decreasing your immunity,” she said. Our world is full of microbes with the potential to cause infection, yet few lead to illness, thanks to our immune system. When we are overworked, dehydrated, sleep-deprived, and eating predominantly junk food, we deplete the resources our body needs for immunity, Miranda says. When the season changes and a new stress is added to the mix in the form of cold, it can tip the scales, making it more likely that an infection will take hold.

師確實認為,在致病過程中,「 冷」的確起著關鍵作用。 據 俄 亥俄 州立大學 綜合 醫 學中心醫 生 Renee Miranda 博士的說法,寒冷會削弱人體的防禦能力。 Miranda 表 示: 「 寒冷的天氣只是壓垮駱駝的那 根 稻 草, 因 為 它 對身 體 造 成 更多壓 力, 降 低 人 的 免 疫 力。」我們 的世界充滿了病原微 生物,但多虧 我們 的免 疫 系 統, 這 些 微 生 物 最 終 使 人得 病 的 情 況 實屬 少見。 Miranda 提 及,當人 過 度勞累、脫水、睡 眠不足、依 賴 垃圾 食 品 時, 就 會 耗 盡 人 體 所 需 的 免 疫 力 資 源。 當 季 節變化時,新的壓力以「 寒冷 」的形式,加入到人的「 健 康 」和「 疾病 」天秤上,天秤傾向「 疾病 」的一方,感染 發生的可能性就更高。 環境對健康的影響 古時候,在發現微 生物之前,醫生們便努力尋找其他更 細微的致病原因,如生活方式和環境失衡。在中醫看來, 「 寒氣 」本身就是一種致病因素,會對身體造成傷害。 Brandon LaGreca 是一位針灸師和中醫從業者, 在威斯康辛州 East Troy 村裡執業。他說: 「 寒氣即我們 所說的外部致病因素,可以說是一種能引起身體內部變 化的力量。」LaGreca 指出,關於寒冷天氣是否導致感 冒的爭議,最初源於 19 世紀法國的科學爭論。當時,法 國生物化學家 Louis Pasteur 大力推廣病菌理論,他主 張,病原體是首要病因。然而,與 Pasteur 同時代的生理 學家 Claude Bernard 則認為,感染的關鍵不在於微生 物,而在於允許微生物入侵,並蓬勃發展的環境條件。 │17


ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT Before the discovery of microbes, ancient doctors looked to other, more nuanced causes of illness, such as lifestyle and environmental imbalances. In traditional Chinese medicine—a system of diagnosis and treatment based on observations from nature—cold is a force that we must protect our bodies against or else risk developing health problems. “Cold is what we call an exterior pathogenic factor,” said Brandon LaGreca, an acupuncturist and Oriental medicine practitioner in East Troy, Wisconsin. “It's an elemental force that can cause a change in the body.” The dispute about whether cold weather causes colds stems from scientific debates in 19th-century France, LaGreca notes. For Louis Pasteur, who promoted the idea of germ theory in modern medicine, the virus was primary. However, Pasteur’s contemporary, Claude Bernard, argued that infections hinge not on microbes, but on environmental conditions that allow microbial invaders to flourish. In the 20th century, scientists overwhelmingly supported Pasteur’s position. They focused on the pathogen as the root of illness and relied exclusively on microbe-destroying medicines—like antibiotics— for treatment. However, emerging research on the microbiome and our evolving understanding of how the immune system works gives increasingly more credit to Bernard’s view that environmental conditions profoundly impact illness. It’s the same view that ancient Chinese medicine has held for centuries. “The terrain is tremendously important, and that's exactly how the Chinese thought about it,” LaGreca said. A side point to this debate is found in the simple fact that the ultraviolet light of the sun kills viruses and there is less sunlight during the shorter days of winter. WINTER AND ‘WEI QI’ If you’ve spent any time in sub-zero wind chill, with your cheeks and fingers stinging with pain, it’s clear that cold is a formidable force. Cold is stress, and Chinese doctors take it very seriously. They even discourage drinking cold beverages because our body must expend extra energy warming these liquids to our internal temperature. 18│

在 20 世紀,科學家們壓倒性地支持 Pasteur 的論 調,把病原體視為疾病的根源,並完全依賴消滅微生物 的藥物來進行治療——如抗生素。 然而,隨著微生物學研究的發展,人們不斷更新對 免疫系統的工作機制,如今,Bernard 的觀點得到越來 越多的支持——即環境條件對疾病有深刻影響。該觀點 也正是古代中醫學千百年來的主張。 LaGreca 說: 「 環境非常重要,這正是古時候中國 人的看法。」而關於環境的重要性,一個簡單事實可以 提供佐證:太陽紫外線可以殺死病毒,而在冬季,太陽 光照少於其他季節。 冬天如何保存「 衛氣 」 如果你曾在零度以下的風寒中待過,會明顯感到臉頰、 手指的刺痛感,這足以展現寒氣力量的威力。「 寒氣 」對 人體而言,無疑是一種壓力,因此中醫不曾忽視其影響 力。例如中醫不提倡喝冷飲,就是因為我們的身體必須 耗費額外的能量,將冷飲加熱到身體的內部溫度。 為了應對冬季對身體帶來的額外壓力,中國古籍中 也明確地指導,如何在此季節維持健康生活。當大自然 呈現寒冷、黑暗和靜寂的狀態時,我們人體也應適應這 種「 陰性 」的能量,意味著身體需要休養生息,並在此 時培養一種更溫和、更沉著的精神狀態。 然而,現代社會的生活形式為「 陽氣 」占據,使人 們難以遵循這種減少壓力的建議,因為整個社會要求我 們全年都保持快速的節奏。「 我們不應該全年保持相同 的時間表,但這就是我們生活的世界。」LaGreca 說。 上述提及關於冬季生活方式的建議,是為了保存和 加強中醫所說的「 氣 」。氣經常被人們比作現代醫學講 的免疫系統,對人體而言是一種防禦性能量,可以把氣 想像成覆蓋全身的保護性能量。


To deal with the added stress of winter, ancient Chinese texts give lifestyle instructions about how to live healthfully during the season. When nature is cold, dark, and still, we are also encouraged to become more aligned with this yin energy. That means getting more rest and cultivating a gentler, more contemplative spirit. However, such stress-minimizing advice can be hard to follow in our yang-dominant modern society, which demands we keep a fast pace all year long. “We shouldn't be keeping the same schedule, but that’s the world we live in,” LaGreca said. These winter lifestyle recommendations are intended to preserve and strengthen something Chinese medicine calls wei qi, or defensive energy. Think of wei qi as a protective layer of energy that covers your entire body. It is often compared with the modern notion of the immune system. Strong wei qi prevents the damaging effects of cold from invading the body, while weak wei qi leaves us susceptible to illness. Chinese medicine practitioner Dr. Andrew Miles says that if we refuse to slow down during the winter, our withering wei qi will eventually force us to obey. In a broadcast of Botanical Biohacking, a podcast dedicated to Chinese medicine, Miles refers to a 2016 study that found that when our immunity is compromised, our social behavior becomes more introverted. “It makes sense that there’s cross-talk between our immune system and emotions in ways that will protect us,” Miles said. “If your wei qi is deficient, you feel like you want to curl up, stay at home, and not be around people. But if you wei qi is prolific, you want to have a party and invite people over.” One way to support wei qi function is by wearing warm clothes. Consider wei qi to be your base layer, while your sweater, scarf, and anything else you pile on help provide added insulation. The Chinese believe it’s especially important to keep the neck and abdomen covered because these areas are particularly vulnerable to the cold. However, even the best coat can’t replace good wei qi. You can replenish your wei qi with rest and hot, nourishing meals. Miles recommends pungent and bitter foods (like garlic and shiitake mushrooms) to help strengthen wei qi. For those who need extra wei qi support, the Chinese recommend herbal remedies or other traditional

如果人的「 衛氣 」強大,可以防止寒氣侵入和破壞 身體,而「 衛氣 」弱小則使人易受疾病的影響。中醫學 家 Andrew Miles 博士說,如果我們拒絕在冬季放慢腳 步,下降的衛氣最終會迫使我們服從命令。在專門介紹 中醫的廣播節目「Botanical Biohacking」中,邁爾斯 提到了一項 2016 年的研究:研究發現當人的免疫力受 到損害時,人的社會行為會變得更加內向。 「 免疫系統和情緒之間存在交叉效應,能起到保護 人體的作用的說法,有其道理。」Miles 說: 「 如果衛氣 不足,會想將自己蜷縮起來,待在家裡,不願與人接觸。 但是如果氣血旺盛,就會想邀請人們過來,開個派對。」 加強人體衛氣的其中一個方法就是穿暖,如果把氣 看作人體的基礎保護層,你的毛衣、圍巾等衣物則有助 提供額外的保護。脖子和腹部的保溫特別重要,因為這 些部位較易受寒。除了要穿暖和之外,休息和攝入溫熱 而有營養的飲食,也可以補充人體的衛氣。Miles 建議, 食用辛辣和苦味的食物( 如大蒜和花菇)來增強衛氣。 中醫採用的草藥、針灸等方法可以提升氣血,並逐 漸獲得現代醫學的認可。例如艾灸起源於中國北方寒冷 地區,且已有研究證明,它能促進人體生產白細胞—— 這是免疫系統啟動的現象。

預防感冒的其他方法 這聽起來有點矛盾,但如果人能常暴露在寒冷中,也會 變得更能抵禦寒冷的威脅。 試想,華氏 50 度在阿拉斯加算是溫和天氣,但在 新奧爾良卻令人難以忍受,這源自荷爾蒙效應。這是一 個簡單的生物學原理:在小的壓力鍛鍊下,身體功能會 得到改善,過大則會受到傷害。例如,舉重過多會使肌 肉受傷,但反覆讓肌肉承受壓力,則能使其變得更強壯。 身體耐寒能力也是如此。 「 我們說,冷能振奮陽氣,這意味著它會將陽氣喚 醒,」LaGreca 說,「 如果你洗涼水澡,有時會感覺身 體溫暖 起 來,因為你 的身 體在 補 償這 種 寒冷刺 激。」 不過,想利用這種荷爾蒙原理來訓練身體,首先你得對 自己的忍受力有所了解。倘若在你已經疲憊不堪的情況 下,讓自己承擔更多壓力則為不智之舉。但是如果你的 氣血較為旺盛,那不妨花些時間到戶外。 │19


OTHER WAYS TO GUARD AGAINST COLD It sounds contradictory, but exposure to cold can also strengthen our ability to tolerate cold. Think about how a 50-degree-Fahrenheit day is considered balmy in Alaska, but unbearable in New Orleans. The reason is hormesis, a biological principle in which body function improves with small doses of something that would otherwise harm it. For example, too much weight can injure a muscle, but repeatedly subjecting that muscle to a little resistance can make it stronger. The same holds true with cold. “We say that cold invigorates the yang, which means it calls it to the surface,” said LaGreca. “If you stay in the shower with cold water beating on you, at some point you're going to feel some warmth come to the area as your body compensates for that cold.” Using the hormetic principle to your advantage requires having a feel for how much cold you can stand. Taking on more stress when you’re already run down is foolish. But if your wei qi feels robust, spend some time outside.

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This same sense of balance applies to physical activity. While winter is a time for rest, we can’t go totally lax. Miranda advises her patients to maintain a sustainable exercise routine. “Even if it’s just walking for 10 minutes, that’s going to get the circulation going, but it's also for stress relief," she said. "When people are stressed, their immune system declines.” Another wintertime habit to stay diligent about is washing your hands. This doesn’t boost your immune system, but it will minimize your exposure to the viruses and bacteria that can cause illness. However, there's no need to micromanage when it comes to protecting yourself. In Chinese medicine, paying attention to balance in all areas of life is the ultimate goal, and the main protector against illness. “Just be mindful of things,” Miranda said. 這種平衡感同樣適用於體育活動。雖然冬季是一個 休息時間,但人是不能完全鬆懈的。Miranda 對其病人 的建議是——保持一個可持續的鍛鍊習慣。「 即使只是 步行 10 分鐘,這也會使血液循環加快,但這也能緩解 壓力。」Miranda 說: 「 在 壓力下,人 的免 疫系統 功 能 會下降。」 另一個應保持的冬季習慣是勤洗手。這不能提高 人的免 疫力,但它將最大限度地讓你減少接觸 致病病 毒、細菌等,進而保護你的健康。然而,在自我防護下, 沒有必 要 過 度 謹小慎 微。在中醫看來,健 康 的 最 終目 標,是在生活各方面取得平衡,其實這就是最重要的健 康保障。

IMAGES AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY SHUTTERSTOCK.

treatments. Moxibustion, for example, is a treatment that originates from the notoriously frigid regions of northern China. It involves burning bits of fragrant herbs over acupuncture points on or near the body, and it has been shown to increase the production of white blood cells—a sign that the immune system is kicking into action.


ELITE LIFESTYLE

The Story Behind THOSE ICONIC TINS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ADHIRAJ CHAKRABARTI.

Harney and Sons, a family tea brand dedicated to bringing the best teas to America

錫罐裡茶葉故事 ——Harney & Sons 家族創業記 By Annie Wu │21


T

ea always there to comfort us, whether we’re feeling under the weather, needing a jolt of energy in the morning, or commiserating over a cup with friends. But as Americans, we haven’t quite adopted the appreciation for tea that other countries have long harbored. Harney and Sons has been passing on its knowledge of tea—in all its wondrous forms, from different tea-drinking cultures around the world— to Americans. The company’s 300-plus varieties of teas and tea blends come packaged in the iconic tin cans that many tea lovers have come to know. Vice president Mike Harney explained why tea is worth a deeper look: “It has an amazing heritage. It tastes great. Rumor has it, it’s good for you.” Tea and its complexities are akin to wine. Depending on the region where the tea is harvested, when it is harvested, and how it is processed, the end product will have markedly different f lavors. Over the decades, Harney and Sons has introduced a wide variety, hoping to educate the American audience on the finer side of tea—beyond the Lipton tea bag. The company loves to perfect the classics like Earl Grey (it blends black and oolong teas from India and China for its aromatic drink) or loose leaf teas like pu-erh (a type of fermented tea from China known for its earthy, intense flavor). It also invents creative blends, like its Organic Bangkok (green tea with lemongrass, coconut, vanilla, and ginger f lavors). It even offers olive leaves from Tuscany as an herbal tisane, and yaupon, a native American shrub plant that is lightly caffeinated. Harney jokingly said the breadth of offerings is because “no one’s figured out how to say no.” FAMILY HERITAGE The tea company started with Harney’s late father, John Harney, who ran a small country inn in Salisbury, Connecticut. While there, John was introduced to a British tea salesman named Stanley Mason, who taught him the ins and outs of the business, including how to blend different tea leaves into a final tea product. Later, John Harney and several partners bought Mason’s business. In 1983, John Harney dissolved the partnership and created Harney and Sons, hoping to one day pass the trade on to his children and create a family legacy.

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Mike Harney (R) and his brother Paul serve as vice presidents of the company. _Courtesy of Harney and Sons

茶,總是能夠撫慰人心。在身體不適,或早晨尚未醒腦 之際,又或是想安慰朋友時,在各式的生活情境中,我 們都會想泡杯熱茶。但是在美國,人們對於茶葉的認識 與其箇中妙處,不像其他國家那般,對此以有長久的歲 月積澱。 「Harney & Sons」茶葉品牌自創立以來,便透過 各種好茶,以及來自世界各地的茶飲文化,向美國人傳 遞茶葉相關知識,販售各式各樣的茶葉和調合茶,品項


The dream came true. Mike Harney and his brother Paul are now running the show, growing the brand from a trusted source of quality tea to one with an international presence. They opened a new café in Tokyo in 2021. They also frequently collaborate with famous institutions and movies, ranging from the Metropolitan Museum of Art to the 2019 film adaptation of Little Women (the latter collaborated with the Louisa May Alcott Orchard House museum, the family home where Alcott wrote the novel). The story of Harney and Sons is, in a way, a classic American tale. After John Harney bought out his partners, he started blending teas in his basement. He packaged the teas into tins himself. Paul, a teenager at the time, helped to carry tea shipments down to the basement. Mike ran a hotel in Chicago and had worked in the wine business. When his father asked him to join the family business, he felt he was ready for the challenge. Paul joined the company after serving in the Marines.

超過三百種,其著名的錫 罐是許多茶飲愛 好者再 熟 悉不 過的包裝。為什麼茶葉值得深入了解?副總 裁麥克 · 哈尼(Mike Harney): 「 因為茶具有了 不起的歷史意義,而且風 味 絕佳,據說,喝茶對身 體好!」 茶的 繁複與多樣和酒相似,隨著產地、採 摘 時節 和處理工序的差異,成品的風味也大不相同。過去數十 年來,該品牌引進了各色種類的茶葉,希望能夠培養美 國大眾認識高品質的茶葉——別再只認得立頓茶包等 平價茶。因此公司致力於發掘高品質的經典茶,例如伯 爵茶( 混合印度紅茶與中國烏龍茶,香氣濃郁 ),或散 茶,如普洱( 源自中國的發酵茶,以樸質又濃厚的風味 聞名)。除此之外,他們還開發很多創意調合茶,其中 一款名為有機曼谷( 為綠茶搭配檸檬草、椰子、香草和

A TEA CONNOISSEUR Borrowing from his experience in the wine industry, Mike Harney began embarking on taste-testing trips to Asia to source teas. Previously, as was common in the industry, the company received samples, and teas were mainly purchased and blended that way. Harney

生薑的混合風味),他們還提供來自意大利托斯卡尼的 橄欖葉,打造一款草本茶;還有代茶冬青,它是一種美 國原生的灌木植物,其樹葉和樹枝含微量咖啡因,可沖 泡飲用。哈尼開玩笑地說,公司會有如此廣泛的種類是 因為「 沒人知道該怎麼拒絕 」,每一樣都是他們非常喜 愛的產品。

Harney and Sons was founded by John Harney in 1983. The company now has more than 300 varieties of teas and blends. _Courtesy of Harney and Sons

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made wonderful memories, like visiting a beautiful garden at dusk in the village of Mamring, India, where darjeeling tea is grown. He also accumulated a wealth of knowledge about the highest-quality teas from top tea-producing regions. He then developed a scale, providing consumers with an understanding of tea’s key flavor components: briskness, body, aroma, which are rated from 1 to 5, printed on every tin. Briskness refers to the feeling of dryness in one’s mouth, depending on the amount of tannins in the tea. Body refers to whether the flavor fills the mouth up or feels thin. Aroma is all about the scent. He also includes detailed tasting notes and brewing instructions. For the popular Paris blend, the tasting notes state, “Similar to the aroma, this tea smells sweet like caramel and has a fruity f lavor of black currants.” The flavors get even more enticing descriptions in Mike Harney’s 2008 guidebook on the world’s major tea types, their history, distinctive characteristics, and production process. Most teas—black, green, white, oolong—come from the same plant, Camellia sinensis. The difference lies in how they’re harvested (early buds or more mature and the season when

白手起家 茶 葉公司創 辦人是已故的家族大 家長,約翰 · 哈尼(John Harney),他在康乃狄克州的Salisbury鎮上經營一間小旅 店,當時約翰結識了一位英國茶葉銷售員Stanley Mason, 他教導約翰茶葉產業的所有相關知識,也教他如何混合不 同種 茶 葉,製 成一 道 茶。不久後,約翰與幾位合 夥人買下 了梅森經營的事業。 1983年,約翰解散合夥公司,創立了 「Harney & Sons」,希望將來能夠將公司傳承給子女,打 造家族企業。 如今夢想成真,公司現由麥克 · 哈尼與他的弟弟保羅負 責管理,在其經營下,原先一間值得信賴的優質小茶商,蛻 變為國際市場中的著名品牌。 2021 年,Harney & Sons 旗 下的茶館於日本東京開幕。他們也經常與知名機構和電影合 作,例如大都會藝術博物館和 2019 年改編自經典名著《小 婦人》的電影。 該公司的品牌故事,可以說是個典型美國故事。創辦人 約翰買下了整間公司後,開始在自家地下室製作調合茶,從 製作到包裝,一手包辦,當時還是青少年的保羅,則會幫忙 將茶葉搬進地下室。麥克曾在酒類產業工作,也曾在芝加哥 經營旅館,當父親邀請他加入之際,他已準備好迎接挑戰, 一同投入這個家族企業;而弟弟保羅則是在海軍服完兵役後 加入。 茶葉鑑賞 在傳統茶葉產業中,普遍的程序是,公司收到樣茶後,就以 樣茶為主去購買與調製茶葉。而麥克於此,運用了他在酒業 的工作經驗,主動出擊。他展開了亞洲味覺測試之旅,遠赴 各地,親自見聞優質的茶葉原料。在旅程中,他留下了美好 的回憶,像是走訪印度Mamring地區的小村落,那裡是大吉 嶺茶的產地。在見識過各個頂尖茶葉產區和頂級茶葉後,他 也累積了豐富的知識。他研發了一套分級制,他將茶的三種 主要風味組成:澀度(briskness)、醇厚度(body)與香氣 (aroma)分成1~5個等級,印在每一款茶罐上,供顧客參考。 澀度即在喝茶時的乾澀感,取決於茶中的單寧酸含量 多寡;醇厚度是指茶的風味充滿口腔般的濃郁程度;而香氣 就是泡茶時聞到的香味。他也為每款茶註明了詳盡的風味 解說與沖泡方法,以高人氣的巴黎茶為例,風味敘述為「 其

Camellia sinensis_zhangshuang/Getty Images

_lupengyu/Getty Images

24│

香氣,聞起來有焦糖般的香甜,且有黑醋栗的水果風味 」。


THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

they’re plucked), or how they’re treated: Some tea makers sear leaves over woks or dry them in ovens; they leave others to oxidize or to be fermented. One description of a Chinese green tea variety called Pan Long Ying Hao (which translates to “dragon silver hair”) says: “Lightly sweetened cocoa in the top notes, sweet braised leeks in the base, and a long-lasting honeyed finish with the faintest hint of gardenia.” The exhaustive compendium illustrates Mike Harney’s passion for tea. He describes the creative process of extracting f lavors and blending teas as a fun adventure. “We can get cocoa flavors, we can get fruity flavors, lemony flavors. Those are something that are naturally [occurring] chemicals inside the tea plant that are manipulated, and next thing you know, it tastes like that,” he said. Mike Harney acknowledges that there may still be a long way to go before Americans become fully acquainted with the intricacies of tea. “We just keep swinging the bat,” he said. He plans to keep the company a family business, run from a production factory in Millerton, New York, where all its teas are packed by staff. “My dad started something good, and we’ve kept it up,” he said cheerily.

Originally inspired by 18th-century British Prime Minister Earl Grey, the tea by this name is perhaps one of the most famous in the world. _Courtesy of Harney and Sons

麥克在其 2008 年發表的世界主要茶 種 指南中,

述,澈底展現了麥克對茶的熱愛,萃取各種創意風味的

也有對於各種風味的描述,讓茶更具吸引力。指南中也

過程和調製各種茶款,對他來說,就是場有趣的冒險。

記錄了茶種的歷史、特色還有生產過程。大部分的茶,

他說: 「 我們可以做出可可風味,或是水果風味、檸檬

例如:紅茶、綠茶、白茶、烏龍茶,皆來自同一種植物,

風味,這些都是茶樹中的天然化學成分,經過我們萃取、

即 茶 樹( 學 名 Camellia sinensis),它們 的 相 異之 處

調整之後,就可以嘗到這些味道。」

在於茶葉採收的方法( 取嫩芽,或成熟一點的葉子,還 有採摘的季節等),或是收成後的處理方式:有些製茶

要充分了解茶葉繁複的多樣性,麥克也承認,對美

師會用炒鍋手工炒茶或是用烤爐烘乾茶葉,也有的是先

國人而言,還有很長一段路要走,「 我們就是持續的做

靜置讓茶葉氧化或發酵。

出成績,」他說。「Harney & Sons」將繼續以家族企業

該指南對中國綠茶的其中一種敘述,是叫「 蟠龍銀

經營,如今以紐約東北方小鎮 Millerton 的量產工廠為

毫 」的茶種,裡面寫道: 「 一開始會聞到清甜的可可味,

主要據點來運營,旗下所有茶葉,都是在此由員工包裝

整體基調像是燜燒韭蔥會有的甜味,最後,持久的蜜香

出產,他愉快地說: 「 我父親創辦了一項很美好的事業,

中,還帶有一絲梔子花香的尾韻。」這本手冊的詳盡描

而我們會繼續堅持做下去。」

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ELITE FASHION

SPINNING A BETTER FUTURE FOR AMERICAN WOOL Shaniko Wool Company shepherds sustainably produced, made-in-America wool 最柔軟的力量 永續羊毛產業與大地之歌 By Eric Lucas Pictures courtesy of Shaniko Wool Company


A

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

t first glance, it’s just an ordinary tussock of grass. Shimmering, graceful, silver-gold grass, dancing lightly in the summer breeze—but grass nonetheless. Yet sheep rancher Jeanne Carver’s fond regard for this 18-inch tuft at Imperial Stock Ranch, outside Shaniko in north-central Oregon, illustrates an idea that she hopes will transform her unique corner of agriculture: fiber production. In this case, wool from Merino sheep. “The healthier the resources, the healthier the harvest,” she said, caressing the Columbia Basin high desert bunchgrass as if it were a rare rose. “Simple management strategies are all it takes to help the landscape immensely. And that’s what’s best for all of us—people, sheep, and wildlife.” The small patch of ground we’re viewing along the 32,000-acre ranch’s access road has benefited from the simplest land-management technique of all: minimal disturbance. Planned, moderate rotational grazing and restricted soil disturbance have aided the recovery of bunchgrass and fended off cheatgrass, the interior West’s most troublesome invasive species. So, unimpressive though it may look to the lay observer, a healthy tussock of bunchgrass signals a healthy landscape and a subtle tale of environmental restoration.

乍看之下,眼前只有普通的草叢。 在夏日微風吹拂下,草叢優雅地隨風舞動,好似金銀色 的微光閃爍,儘管美麗,但在一般人眼中,也不過是草 罷了。然而,在俄 勒岡州中北部的帝國牧場(Imperial Stock Ranch)主人珍 · 卡佛(Jeanne Carver)的眼中, 它們無比珍貴。她的牧場主要生產美利奴(Merino,另 譯美麗諾)羊毛。在美國農業中,羊毛是一相對冷門的 產業,因此她希望能使這項產業有所改變。 「 有健康的資源,才能有健康的收穫,」卡佛一邊 說,一邊輕撫著這種生長在哥倫比亞河流域高原沙漠地 區的草本植物,在她眼裡,此草無異於珍稀的沙漠玫瑰。 「 只需要簡單的管理策略,就能帶給這片原野極大的幫 助,而且這也是對我們人類、對綿羊及對野生動植物最 好的選擇。」

CLEANING UP THE INDUSTRY Carver has spent a quarter-century in a corner of American agriculture that has f lown beneath the radar of a public more preoccupied with food production. Textile fiber—largely from wool and cotton—has been a central facet of human civilization for millennia, but while the average thoughtful American may give careful consideration to the provenance of what’s on our dinner tables, far less attention is paid to the clothing on our bodies. Carver has been taking the ranch’s wool harvest direct to market since 1999. That work set the stage

Right: Jeanne Carver, founder of Shaniko Wool Company and owner of Imperial Stock Ranch, is a strong advocate for the value and heritage of wool. Left page: Grasslands at Imperial Stock Ranch, with Mount Hood in the background.

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for her involvement with a program to create a set of guidelines for wool production, which has since become the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS). This consists of a set of sheep-raising and fiber-handling criteria under the aegis of Textile Exchange (TE), a global nonprofit based in Texas. RWS’s criteria focus on land stewardship, humane animal treatment, workplace fairness, and overall accountability. These same objectives underlie TE’s campaign to bring sustainability to many corners of the fiber industry, covering cotton, alpaca, mohair, wool, down, and recycled content. “Our goal is to help the industry achieve a 45 percent reduction in the greenhouse gas emissions that come from producing fibers and raw materials by 2030,” explained Pe-Jae Brooks of TE. The 20-yearold organization has about 750 members, ranging from ranchers such as Carver to textile mills and end users such as Levi Strauss and Lululemon. “For real change to happen, everyone needs a clear path to positive impact.” Carver and TE are activists in an industry that, since the mid-20th century, has veered sharply toward synthetic fibers—largely hydrocarbon-based. According to TE, 62 percent of modern textiles are chemical rather than natural, with oil-based polyester by far the most common at 57 million tons—52 percent of total annual global fiber production, what Carver calls “a global trail of products with oil on it just so you can get a shirt.”

沿著牧場旁的道路放眼望去,眼前這一小塊地就受 益於這個最簡易的土地管理技巧:極小化的干預措施。 牧場總面積為 32,000 英畝,而該地僅占其中一小部分。 經過細心規劃、適度輪替生長的草場與極簡化的土壤擾 動頻率,有效促進當地植物恢復生長,也能防禦旱雀麥 (cheatgrass)——美國西部最令人頭疼的入侵物種。這 片原生草本植物乍看是一片野草,但其能健康茂盛,也 反映了原野的健康,進而展現自然環境成功修復的碩果。 淨化羊毛產業 儘管羊毛業在美國農業中並未受到大眾關注,卡佛卻默 默投身該產業長達25年。數千年來,由羊毛和棉花製成 的紡織纖維,已成為人類文明中不可或缺的衣物原料。 然而,一般人可能會格外留心餐桌上食物的產地,卻極 少關心身上服飾的生產來源。 自 1999 年開始,卡佛就將牧場收成的羊毛直接販 賣到市場,她以此經驗作為鋪墊,計畫制定一套羊毛生 產準則,即日後 的羊 毛責任標 準(Responsible Wool Standard, 以下簡稱 RWS),在國際非營利組織紡織交 易所(Textile Exchange)的支持下,RWS 包含了飼養 綿羊與纖維處理方式的一系列準則,側重於土地管理、 動物人道飼養、工作場所公平性,並承擔全面責任。 這些目標,也是紡織交易所行動的基礎,希望能夠 讓多元的纖維產業永續發展,包括棉花、羊駝毛、馬海毛 ( 安哥拉山羊毛)、羊毛、羽絨與回收再利用的毛料。 該組織自成立以來,已有 20 年,有約 750 名成員。 其中從生產原料的牧場主人、處理加工的紡織工廠到產 品的直接用戶,如丹寧服飾品牌 Levi Strauss 與運動機 能服飾品牌 Lululemon 等,都是組織的成員。「 我們的 目標是協助這個產業,減少 45% 因生產原料而排放的

Left: A staff member at Shaniko Wool Company shearing a sheep. Right: A worker skirts a fleece, the process of removing debris from the raw wool after shearing. Right page: Merino sheep graze at Imperial Stock Ranch outside Shaniko, Oregon.

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By comparison, the 24 million pounds (12,000 tons) of wool produced in the United States by about 3.3 million sheep is a drop in the bucket. But Carver believes RWS can be exemplary, if not universal, and she is a fierce advocate for the value and heritage of wool. “Take sheep and add water—that simple formula has clothed and fed humankind for more than 10,000 years,” she declared. “Wool is a miracle fiber; sheep give all that and ask for nothing except humane care and land to graze.”

溫室氣體,並在 2030 年以前達成,」紡織交易所的行 銷企劃經理 Pe-Jae Brooks 說,「 為使改變成真,每個 人都需要一條明確的指示,才能產生正面作用。」 卡佛和紡織交易所屬於紡織業中的積極參與者,而 該產業從 20 世紀中期開始,突然急劇地發展以碳氫化 合物為主要成分的人造纖維。根據紡織交易所的資料, 現代紡織品有 62% 是以化學原料製造。以石油作為原料 的聚酯纖維是目前最常見的纖維產品,年產量有 5,700 萬噸,占全球纖維總產量的 52%,對此,卡佛稱「 只要消 費者買衣服,石油產物的蹤跡就會遍及全球。」 │29


CARRYING ON A LEGACY Shaniko and Imperial Stock Ranch exemplify that heritage. At the turn of the 20th century, the town earned the moniker “Wool Capital of the World.” Its still-standing warehouse held 4 million pounds of wool, and in 1903, Columbia Southern Railway cars hauled away 2,000 tons of wool. The town’s long decline began when the railway curtailed operations in the 1930s and ceased in 1966. Today, Shaniko is listed on Visit Oregon’s web page devoted to ghost towns. Imperial Stock Ranch was homesteaded by Richard Hinton in 1871, and at one point, it was the state’s largest individually owned land and livestock operation, carrying more than 35,000 sheep. After several ownership changes, the ranch is now smaller. But Carver serves as unofficial steward of a ranch headquarters with an early-20th-century manor house, a historic sheep-shearing shed, and a massive barn whose evocative tack room holds dozens of priceless heritage saddles, still on saddle racks and ready to go as if a crew of ranch hands were expected tomorrow to start the fall roundup. After taking a couple years off to care for her husband, Dan in his final years of enduring a fatal neurologic disease, Carver no longer manages sheep directly. Instead, she leads Shaniko Wool Company

相較之下,在美國由三百多萬隻綿羊產出的羊毛產 量是 1.2 萬噸,簡直微不足道,但是卡佛相信,即使無法 普遍實現,RWS 仍會成為值得仿效的標誌,而她就是提 倡羊毛價值與傳遞其歷史意義的倡導者。 「 放羊和澆水——這個簡單的公式,讓人類能夠吃 飽穿暖,超過一萬年之久,」她說, 「 羊毛是種不可思議 的纖維;綿羊全數給予,不求回報,只要人道的照顧與 能夠吃草的土地。」 家族牧場共同願景 沙尼科鎮與帝國牧場將成為傳承這項遺產的典範,在步 入20世紀之初,該城鎮還獲得了「 世界羊毛首都」的稱 號,至今仍屹立的貨倉,能容納400萬磅的羊毛。 1903 年,哥倫比亞南方鐵路公司運送了2,000噸的羊毛。而 1930年代,隨著鐵路公司開始縮減營運,城鎮因而衰落 了好長一段時間。現在,在俄勒岡州的造訪網站中,沙 尼科就被列在廢棄的城鎮分頁裡。 1871 年, 帝 國 牧 場 由 Richard Hinton 經 營, 一 度成為俄 勒岡州最大的私人土地與畜牧場,擁有超 過 35,000 頭綿羊,經過數次所有權轉移後,現存的牧場 規模小了一些,但仍然相當廣大。卡佛現在作為一個非正 式的管理員,負責管理牧場總部,包含一棟 20 世紀早期 的領主大宅、一個富有歷史意義的剪羊毛棚和巨大的穀 倉,裡面的馬具室還保有很多無價的傳家之寶,充滿回 憶,成列存放於架上的馬鞍,彷彿牧場工人為了明天開 始的秋季圈趕羊隻而整裝待發。

Livestockprotection dogs stand on duty at Imperial Stock Ranch.

30│


(SWC), an enterprise that includes nine family-run sheep ranches in the West, all of which are committed to sustainable production practices. SWC ranchers collectively manage 36,000 sheep on 2 million acres. “To be honest, most of the RWS standards represent things I was already doing,” said Ted Borda, a retired teacher who took over his father’s sheep operation in Carson Valley, Nevada. “In ranching, like teaching, you’re always looking for a better way to do something.” Borda’s “better way,” on the 150,000 acres of federal land that he leases for grazing, includes a vastly reduced herd size: He runs 4,500 sheep where his dad had grazed almost 100,000. He has adopted more humane methods of marking and castrating the animals, and he is especially proud of the housing that he provides his herders—a crew of 11, comprising two Mexican extended families who come to Nevada on agricultural H-2A visas. In six months, Borda reported, his herders make as much as they would in two years back home. And the sheepherder wagons that he provides have solar power, refrigerators, and other modern comforts unimaginable a century ago in the Mountain West, where Basque sheepherders spent months alone in the high country with only herd dogs for companions. “It’s still a pretty solitary occupation, but they’re up there chatting on cell phones these days; no more reading by kerosene lanterns,” Borda said. “If your herders are happy, your sheep are happy. That was my father’s maxim, and he was right.” Borda’s sheep produce about 10 pounds of wool each. Funneled through SWC, it winds up at progressive materials handlers, such as Meridian Specialty Yarn Group in North Carolina, where it is spun into RWS-labeled yarn. “We’re looking forward to working with apparel manufacturers in North America [who are] looking for a reliable source of wool yarn, as well as products with an authentic sustainability story that they can weave into the marketing stories for their products,” said Stephen Hudson, Meridian’s senior vicepresident of sales and marketing. That need for an authentic, U.S.-based source story is what brought Ralph Lauren to Imperial Stock Ranch a decade ago after an imbroglio over the fact that Ralph Lauren’s U.S. Olympic team uniforms were made in China. Three Winter Olympics since

Dozens of heritage saddles still fill the barn at Imperial Stock Ranch, which dates back to 1871 and was once Oregon’s largest individually owned land and livestock operation, with more than 35,000 sheep.

後來,卡佛為了照顧生病的丈夫,離開牧場數年, 在 陪伴丈夫走 過 最後的 時日後,她 才再度回歸工作崗 位,但她不再直接管理羊群,改為帶領沙尼科羊毛公司 (Shaniko Wool Company,簡稱 SWC)。該企業由 9 間牧場聯合組成,牧場皆由家庭經營,並承諾實施永續 生產。SWC 旗下的牧場主人在 200 萬英畝的土地上, 共同管理 36,000 頭綿羊。 其中一位牧場主人Ted Borda,是一名退休教師, 他說: 「 其實,大部分的 RWS 標準都是我已經在做的事 情,」目前他接管了其父親在內華達州卡森谷(Carson Valley)放牧的綿羊。 「 在放牧這方面,就像教學一樣, 你總是會不斷尋找更好的作法。」 Borda 所謂「 更好的作法 」,包括:大幅減少羊群 的規模。他從聯邦土地 上租 來的 15 萬英 畝,有 4,500 頭羊放牧於此,但在過去,他父親則會在同樣大小的土 地上放牧近 10 萬頭羊;他採用較為人道的方式為動物 作標記和閹割;並提供給放牧工人像樣的住處,對此他 感到自豪。放牧團隊有 11 人,由兩個墨西哥大家庭組成, 他們領著短期農業簽證來到內華達工作。Borda 表示, 他的放牧工人半年的薪水,在他們家鄉要工作兩年才可 掙得。他提供的牧羊人貨車,搭載太陽能供電、冰箱及其 │31


have featured sweaters designed and made by Ralph Lauren using Carver’s wool. Other clients have included Patagonia and Los Angeles specialty designer Janessa Leone, who places special emphasis on sustainability in her garment designs. “There is an amazing harmony that comes through the partnerships of animals, plants, land, and place in this holistic management approach that contributes to healing of the whole ecosystem,” said Leone.

他現代設施。在一百年前,這是有如天方夜譚般的舒適, 當時的巴斯克牧羊人是獨自一人在美國西部高山上度過 數月,僅有牧羊犬陪伴在身邊。 「 當然,牧羊仍是一個孤獨的職業,但現在的牧羊人 在山上可以用手機與別人聊天,不再只能藉著煤油燈閱 讀了,」Borda 說, 「 如果你的牧羊人開心,你的羊也會 開心。這是我父親的格言,而他說的沒錯。」 Borda 的綿羊每隻能生產約十磅羊毛,羊毛透 過 SWC 輸送,再交由先進的材料公司處理,比如北卡羅萊 納 州 的 Meridian 專 業 紗 線 公司(Meridian Specialty

POSITIVE CHANGE Carver credits the original vision of sustainable wool production to her husband, Dan, an engineer who took over Imperial Stock Ranch in 1988 and immediately began improving both grazing practices and grain production. Among other projects, the Carvers eventually created more than 100 water catchment basins in the uplands of the ranch property outside Shaniko, north of Bend, helping to hold water into the summer, improve riparian habitats for wildlife, and, not incidentally, provide water for their sheep.

Yarn Group),最終成為有 RWS 標誌的紗線。 「 我們很期待與北美的服飾製造商合作,有的製造 商會尋找值得信賴的羊毛紗來源,與真正永續生產的產 品,好讓他們寫進產品的行銷故事裡。」Meridian 公司 資深的行銷副經理哈德森(Stephen Hudson)說道。 就 是 像 這 樣 的 需 求, 讓 知 名 服 飾 品 牌 Ralph Lauren 十年前找到了帝國牧場。當時 Ralph Lauren 為美國設計的奧運隊服實際上是在中國製造的,自從歷 經這個複雜的尷尬局面後,三屆冬季奧運的針織衫都是 由 Ralph Lauren 設計,並使用卡佛的羊毛製作。帝國 牧場其他客戶包括戶外運動服飾品牌 Patagonia 與洛 杉磯手工帽設計師 Janessa Leone,後者相當重視其 產品的永續性。設計師 Leone 說: 「 透過與動、植物和

Jockey's Ridge fingering weight yarn. Lightweight and fine, this type of wool is ideal for crafting knitted garments. _Courtesy of Meridian Specialty Yarn Group

土地間的合作,加上全面的管理方式,形成一種美好的 協調,能使整個生態系統逐漸痊癒。」 向陽的未竟之業 最初對永續生產羊 毛的遠見,卡佛 將此 歸功於她的丈 夫,他是一名工程師,在1988年接管了帝國牧場後,立 即著手改善牧場業務與穀物生產方式。其中有一項工程 是,卡佛夫婦在牧場所屬範圍內、本德(Bend)北部的 高地,建造了超 過100個集水區,讓該區有足夠儲水來 迎接夏天,此舉不僅為野生動植物改善了河岸棲息地, 也為羊群供給水源。 牧 場 裡 的 一 條 小 溪 注 入 德 舒 特 河(Deschutes River),這是哥倫比亞河的主要支流。在築起水壩用於 發電、灌溉和船運以前,每年會有兩千萬條鮭魚從北太 平洋返回哥倫比亞河,而現在,若能有五十萬條魚洄游 便算是頂好的光景。「1990 年,Buck Hollow 小溪,只 見得兩尾虹鱒回來產卵,」卡佛回憶道。不過,在卡佛 夫婦與鄰居對小溪周邊環境實行永續性的措施後,如今 在夏秋之際,魚類洄游的盛景漸入佳境。 溪流中鮭魚的健康生長環境,被視為環境管理的主 要指標,但卡佛並沒有安於現狀。她僱用科學專家測定 牧場的碳足跡,其報告見喜,因為牧場的淨碳預算是正 數,且每年能額外將 51,000 頓的碳儲存進土壤裡。她 將這項調查擴展至 SWC 旗下所有的牧場,她說, 「 讓我 們試想,倘若全美的羊毛產業都可以達到此目標,那將

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A small stream on the ranch feeds into the Deschutes River, a major Columbia River tributary. Once upon a time, before it was dammed for power, irrigation, and shipping, the Columbia saw up to 20 million salmonids return every year from the North Pacific. Now, it’s barely a half-million in a good year. “In 1990, Buck Hollow Creek saw just two steelhead return to spawn,” Carver recalled. But after the Carvers and their neighbors made sustainable changes along the stream, dozens of anadromous fish now return each summer and fall. While healthy salmon runs are considered a prime indicator for environmental stewardship, Carver isn’t resting on those laurels. She’s hired scientific experts to determine the ranch’s carbon footprint, and she happily reports that the net carbon budget is positive, banking an additional 51,000 tons of carbon into the soil each year. She’s extending this research across all ranches in SWC. Imagine, she

declared, if that could be achieved across the U.S. wool industry. And never mind carbon banking, she added. Just consider the spiritual ethos of sheep ranching. “To me, there’s no better picture of peace and contentment than sheep at rest, and that’s the picture you have if your sheep are not hungry, experiencing no internal stress, and experiencing no external stress. “They remind me every day that we are all called to honor what we have been given.”

會如何?」她繼續補充,不要去在意碳儲存這方面的事, 只要仔細考慮牧羊的精神理念就好。 「 對我來說,沒有什麼畫面能比安心休息的羊群, 更讓人更感到平靜且滿足了,那是當你的羊群不飢餓, 沒有感受到內在及外在的壓力時,才能見著的畫面。」 卡佛說, 「 每天牠們都提醒著我,我們必須向所獲得的一 切致上敬意。」 │33


ELITE PEOPLE

LIVING WITHOUT REGRETS From Taiwanese student to successful New York designer 勇闖異鄉 活出無悔歲月 ——專訪臺裔室內設計師劉唯亭 English by Jennifer Tseng | Chinese by Ann Lin

W

hen interior designer Ashley Liu showed up at the construction site of her first major project, the Renaissance Atlanta Airport Gateway Hotel, wearing high heels and clutching a small pink suitcase, her clients were stunned. She quickly realized the reason why: “There were no stairs and no walls. To get up to the second floor, I had to climb up a wooden ladder.” If she had fallen, she would have died, Ashley said. “All I could think of at the time was, Oh, I really shouldn’t dress like this next time.” Undeterred by this initial faux pas, the starry-eyed designer threw herself into the project with the naïve courage of a rookie, and her creativity soared. To the astonishment of her boss, this seemingly inconspicuous airport hotel brought her employer, Rottet Studio, one of the industry’s prestigious international honors, the 2017 Best of Year Award, and the project was featured on the cover of Interior Design magazine. For Ashley, the lead designer for the project, the pinnacle of her satisfaction came when she saw the space she had painstakingly labored over brought to life by the people in it. There were business travelers at work on the rocking chairs she designed, strangers bonding over drinks at the bar, and guests doodling on a blank poster she had hung in the hotel studio, thus leaving pieces of their story behind for others to discover. “In that moment, the meaning and purpose of my work deepened exponentially. This is exactly the vibe I had hoped to create for everyone.”

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當年,初入行的室內設計師劉唯亭踩著高跟鞋,提著一 只粉紅色的小行李箱,出現在她首次負責設計的專案施 工現場時,她的客戶和同事們都愣住了。但她很快就意 識到原因何在。「( 這裡)沒有一處是可以讓我好好走路 的地方」,工地建築的外壁尚未成形,既沒有樓梯更沒 有電梯,要想上樓,只能拿一只木梯往上爬,她對這「 掉 下去就會摔死 」的場勘回憶仍記憶猶新。事後,同事們 為此調侃了許久,也成了她的標誌性事件。如今回想, 劉唯亭只覺得有趣,畢竟這次專案,對其設計生涯而言, 意義重大。 亞 特 蘭 大 機 場 門 戶 萬 麗 酒 店, 是 劉 唯 亭 進 入 「Rottet Studio」設計事務所接到的第一項設計案。在 室內設計業界,位於機場旁的商務酒店,通常不會備受 關注,然而,這絲毫不減劉唯亭對此案的熱情。她不受 框 架限制,創意發想,最 終獲 得設計界指標性的國 際 大獎—— 《Interior Design》 「 年度最佳設計獎 」 (Best Of Year Awards),更一舉登上《Interior Design》 雜誌 2017 年 10 月號封面。這對其任職的事務所來說, 無疑是一大殊榮,但當時她只是一位新人。 然而,對劉唯亭來說,獲獎的殊榮誠然值得紀念, 但論及至今最有成就感的時刻,便是看著她所創作的空 間被人們所使用——商務人士在她所設計的搖 椅上辦 公、在酒吧裡暢談、旅客們在她精心設計的巨幅卷軸上 塗鴉專屬於自己的足跡。這一切都被賦予生命,「 對我 來講,這個空間的意義源源不絕的出現了,這就是我原 本想要帶給大家的感覺。」


The work of Ashley Liu, an interior designer based in New York, spans hospitality, corporate, and residential projects. _Photography by Adhiraj Chakrabarti

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At Renaissance Atlanta Airport Gateway Hotel, the vision is "business unusual," a unique travel experience for its guests. _Courtesy of Rottet Studio

BRICK BY BRICK In the years since that initial triumph, Ashley received many accolades, including the 2019 Best Resort Hotel by Ahead Awards, and being named an Honoree of the Designer Rising Star award by HiP Awards. Yet, the road to success was not easy. “Moving from Taiwan to New York really opened my eyes. When [most people] visit, they see a beautiful city bustling with life, but you have to really live and work here to truly understand the struggles of being a foreign student and immigrant.”

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潛心耕耘 在初試啼聲後,劉唯亭又接連獲得AHEAD國際酒店設 計大獎、Hip酒店設計最佳新人獎等國際大獎。這名來 自臺灣的普通留學生,如何一步一腳印,在紐約這座國 際之都駐足,並留有一席之地? 「 來紐約這件事情對我來講,真的是眼界突然打開 了。」劉唯亭坦言,來到紐約追夢是她人生的轉捩點。 短暫停留的觀光客和交換學生看到的,或許只是這座城 市的繁華,唯有實際融入當地,成為一名「 紐約客」, 才能真實體會許多留學生、移民才懂的艱辛。紐約的生 活成本很高,加上鉅額的留學費用,儘管父母始終支持


The cost of living in New York is high, and combined with the tuition for an international student, Ashley’s ambitions placed a heavy burden on her family’s finances. The difficulties only hardened her resolution to cherish each opportunity and persevere. In her student days, Ashley knew that her English skills wouldn’t be able to compete with those of a native speaker. So, in addition to putting in many sleepless hours learning everything from architectural regulations to plumbing, she taught herself 3D Max— a modeling, rendering, and animation software. “It was a complicated program …, but I kept at it until my teachers and peers were able to pick out my design at a glance. That was when I knew I had succeeded. Now I don’t spend too much time explaining my concepts; my work speaks for itself.,” she said. To laypeople, interior design is synonymous with buying pretty decorations. In reality, it’s a lot of problem solving, according to Ashley. An interior designer needs more than just an eye for beauty; one must have sufficient knowledge across many fields to communicate with a team. One of Ashley’s biggest challenges when she first entered the workforce was learning to take meeting minutes. Faced with an onslaught of professional terminologies thrown out by consultants ranging from fire safety engineers to electricians, Ashley was clueless. “I couldn’t understand a word they said. I didn’t even know how to spell it.” Instead of taking the easier way out by asking her colleagues, Ashley pushed herself to look up every word. “I think it’s the innate pride of a Taiwanese; we don’t like to trouble others. … The process was very tedious and might even seem dumb, but all that knowledge is now permanently welded into my mind.” METAMORPHOSIS Had you asked a young Ashley over a decade ago what her plans were after completing her master’s degree, she would have answered: “Return to Taiwan and start my own studio.” Never in her wildest imagination had Ashley thought she would spend so many years away from home, though looking back now, she has no regrets.

她,這也是一筆不容小覷的開銷。她清楚這一切得來不 易,因此格外珍惜待在紐約的每一刻,她緊抓所有機會 學習,將自己推到極限。 在求學階段,她自知英文能力沒有母語人士好,為 了突破劣勢讓作品被看見,犧牲了無數的課後與休閒時 間,訓練自己 3D 繪圖設計的能力。記不清多少日夜的 潛心鑽研,她清楚目標所在: 「 等到有一天,我的東西、 我的作品呈現出來,是讓我的老師和同學一眼就可以看 得出來我東西就是不一樣,那時候,我就成功了。」她成 功練就了他人難以輕易取代的技能。 然而,相 似 的 課 題,在 她 初入職 場 後再 次 降 臨。 在公司會 議中,面 對 消 防安 全、空 調系統等顧 問拋出 的大 量專 業 術 語,使 其 不知 所措。她 勤 做會 議 筆記, 用拼音把單字寫下,下班後,上網查找資料,不斷學習。 儘 管她 知道,求 助 於同事是最有 效率 的方式,但她 選 擇靠自己,「 去實踐 這件事情,雖然很慢很慢,好 像很 笨的方法,可是最終會牢牢記在我的心上。」不求速成, 她知道所有的付出,終將成為自己的養分。

Hotel guests are encouraged to leave little messages on the blank poster roll for other travelers to discover. _Courtesy of Rottet Studio

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For Ashley, there are no right or wrong decisions in life, but rather, it’s about finding your path. “Your life experience will push you in the direction that you’re meant to go. Every decision you make will somehow direct you toward the people you should meet, the places you need to be, and lead you to become who you’re meant to be in that stage of life.” In her high school days, Ashley loved street dancing. However, not wanting their daughter to be sidetracked from academic studies, Ashley's parents forbid her from joining a dance club. Reluctant to give up this passion, she secretly skipped meals to save up money for lessons. “Dancing gave me a lot of inspiration. At the beginning, I had no idea how to dance, so I copied the teachers’ every move—how to find the beat, how to groove with the music. Eventually, when I got enough experience under my belt, I discovered I no longer needed to mimic them—I could dance on my own.” Similarly, through poring over the works of legendary designers, Ashley learned to harness their cumulated knowledge and develop her unique style. In 2021, Ashley made the decision to pursue her longtime dream and open her own design studio, LIU Interiors. “I am not one for regrets. I kept thinking, if I don’t give it a try, 10 years later, I’ll still be thinking about it, so why not do it now?” AN UNEXPECTED BLESSING Starting a business comes with many risks, and this pressure weighed heavily on Ashley’s mind. What if no new projects came in? Would it be wise to forego her current company and all its high-profile projects? Despite all her doubts and concerns, Ashley knew that she was ready for change. “I knew I had to break away at some point. Letting go is the only way for me to start fresh and pursue a new life. Then immediately after quitting my job, I got pregnant.” “I’ve always wanted kids. I just didn’t think it would be at this moment. My business was still up in the air, but the baby was already here. However, I do believe that everything in life is a gift from the heavens. This was meant to be.” Having a child changed everything. Before her son was born, Ashley worked round the clock, sleeping only four hours a day. In fact, she was sending out emails to her clients even as she lay in the delivery ward waiting to give birth. 38│

舞出命運 如果詢問十幾年前的劉唯亭,完成碩士學業後的 計畫 是什麼?她會回答: 「 工作了一年就回臺灣,可能自己創 業。」在最初的人生規劃中,她從未想過會離鄉背井數 年,但一路走來,並不後悔。 她認為,人生中的每一個選擇都沒有所謂的正確 或 錯 誤,「 你 的人 生 經 歷 最 終會 把 你引導 到 某 一 個 方 向,每一個時期的選擇,都會引導你,無論是認識的人、 周遭生活環境,都會把你帶領到一個方向去。」高中時 期便熱愛跳舞的劉唯亭,父母為了不想她在學業上分 心,因此禁止她參加熱舞社團,然而這無法澆熄她對舞 蹈的熱情,她甚至可以省下飯錢,只為了攢下積蓄去上 舞蹈課。 「 跳舞這件事情給我很多的啟發和靈感,因為我從 剛開始什麼都不會,然後開始練習、去學習老師的每個 style、每個動作、每個節奏,他怎麼抓音樂的拍子,一 直到有一天,我突然融會貫通了,可以不用再模仿別人 跳了,我可以開始自己的舞蹈,然後自己編一支舞。」她 的體會是: 「 不管是跳舞還是設計,都是一樣的道理。」 透過觀摩大師的經典之作,不斷地積累相關的知識與技 能,最終發展出自己的設計風格。 2021 年,劉唯亭決定實現她多年的夢想,創立自 己的設計工作室「LIU Interiors」。她細數自己的創業 夢,可以追溯到 10 年前,「 如果我從這麼多年前就開始 思考,就表示我是真的想要做這件事情。」與其讓自己 晚年回想當年的夢想,她寧可放手一搏,「 我是一個不 喜歡後悔的人。」她說。 生命之禮 創業充滿著未知的風險,若沒有接到新的案子,何以為 繼?離開她累積了8年資歷的公司,放棄手上那些備受 矚目的大型專案真的值得嗎?這些疑問始終盤旋在她腦 海。然而,她內心篤定,該是改變的時候了,正當她甘願 冒險,準備衝刺事業時,卻發生了一起美好的意外—— 一個新生命降臨。 「 我一直 都 想 要 有小 孩,但 是沒有 想 到 是 這個 時 間,」她說,「 我覺得人生吧,每件事情的發生,都是上 天給你的禮物,都是命中注定 ,每一件事情的發生應 該都有它的理由。就是接受它,不管是好或不好的,好 的就開心接受,如果是不好的經驗,我都當成是自己的 養分。」 孩子的誕生,大大地改變了劉唯亭的生活。此前, 她可以每天只睡四個小時,日以繼夜地埋首工作,就連 躺在產房待產之際,她仍在發送電子郵件給客戶報告專 案的近況。「 我以為做完月子,就可以回到原本工作滿檔 的狀態,」她笑談當時天真的想像,「 當他( 兒子)生出 來,看著他的時候,我開始思考,是不是要給他多一點 時間。」劉唯亭突然可以體會,為什麼有那麼多的女性


Left: The Belmond Cap Juluca Resort at Anguilla, a hotel designed by Ashley during her tenure at Rottet Studio. Right: Cip's by Cipriani Bar, a beachfront Italian restaurant inside the resort at Anguilla. _Courtesy of Rottet Studio

“I had thought I would jump right back to working full time after having my son. Then, as I laid eyes on my baby, I began to wonder: Maybe I should give him more of my time.” Suddenly, Ashley understood why so many women are willing to sacrifice their careers to be stay-at-home moms. “It’s such a wonderful and fulfilling thing, watching your child develop day by day. ” When her son was just a few months old, Ashley was invited to attend a mentorship program hosted by the Taiwanese Junior Chamber of Commerce. While sharing her experience and expertise with the students there, Ashley felt as if she were seeing younger versions of herself. Even though she was a mother, Ashley felt that she shouldn’t forget her aspirations and why she came to New York: “My son has brought me so much joy, but I needn’t limit myself to solely caring for him. In fact, it is his arrival that inspired me to rethink the meaning

of life, to become a better person, and use all that I have learned to benefit our society. Recalling how her former boss had helped with her career, she said, “Now it’s my turn to pass this knowledge down.” 願意犧牲自己的事業成為全職母親,「 你看著他每天一 些小小的發展,是一件很有成就感的事情。」 在成為母親數月後,她久違出門上工,一次,她在 臺灣青商會的師徒傳承計畫擔任導師,在她和學生分享 經驗與專業知識時,彷彿從那一雙雙炙熱的雙眼中,看 到了年輕的自己。她不禁在內心自語, 「 我有了小孩,但 是千萬不要忘記原本的自己,不要忘記我的初衷,我為 什麼來到紐約,為什麼想學設計。」新生命的誕生,讓 她重新思考生命的意義,她想成為一位好母親,也想成 為一位能將自己所學奉獻給社會的人。就像當初她的老 闆無私的將他畢生經驗傳授給她一樣,她也想將經驗傳 承下去,「 如果因為我的經歷或是故事可以讓一些人得 到鼓勵,或是讓他們更有自信的話,我都會覺得是非常 有意義的一件事情。」 │39


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ELIT HOME

Turn Your Rugs Into Magic Carpets 氛圍調理大師 家居風格要素——地毯篇 By Faithe Lo

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ugs can make an eloquent statement. Whether you are looking to show off your personal style or refresh your home, starting off with the right rug can do wonders. Going for classic elegance? Modern chic? Want to brighten a room or tone down a study? Throwing down the right rug in the right place may be the fastest way to solve all your decorating challenges. If your furniture is looking scattered and messy, laying a rug beneath them can help to visually tie the loose pieces together. And if nothing else, a thick rug will keep you warm and cozy all winter long.

一張地毯便可彰顯屋主的獨特品味,透過變換風格,就 能輕鬆地重新詮釋生活空間,無論是想展現經典傳統、 雋永大氣,還是活潑鮮明,它是打造家居風格的功臣之 一,催化整體空間氛圍。如在單調的空間鋪上繽紛多彩 的地毯,或 在用色活 潑多樣的房間使用低調內斂的地 毯,便能有效變換風格。如果房內家具分散,讓空間看 似凌亂,此時,鋪上一張地毯,便能在視覺上收攏四散 的物件,而在寒冷的冬季鋪上一條地毯,不只隔絕了冰 冷的地面,也增添了一股舒適暖意。 尺寸多大才合適? 地毯的尺寸要搭配房間和家具的大小,地毯太大,其邊 界會讓行走不便,太小不符合空間比例,則看起來滑稽,

FINDING THE PERFECT SIZE When selecting a rug, it is very important to pick one that is appropriate for the size of your room and furniture. If it’s too big, it’ll be difficult to walk around it, whereas if it is too small, the result will be comical. As a good rule of thumb, all large pieces of your furniture should be able to fit on the rug. Living Room: Your rug must be large enough to encompass the coffee table, and at the very least, the front legs of your sofa. There should be a gap of roughly 6 inches between either edge of the sofa and the ends of the rug. All other smaller pieces of furniture can then be arranged as you see fit in the remaining space. Dining Room: The full dining table must fit on top of the rug. For the chairs, you have the option of bringing them in completely or letting their back legs hang off the sides.

因此選擇合適的尺寸很重要。有一項最簡單的原則,所有 大型或主要家具,如餐桌、咖啡桌、沙發和床都要包含在 地毯範圍內,其餘的則需根據房間和家具調整。 客廳:整張咖啡桌須完整地涵蓋於地毯上,而沙發則至 少前腳要置於地毯,且沙發兩邊距離地毯邊緣需 留6英寸左右的寬度。更小件的家具,如邊桌、扶 手椅等,則可視狀況而定。 餐廳:餐桌應涵蓋於地毯範圍內,而餐椅則可以整個或 僅前腳在地毯範圍內。 臥室:床至少前1/3要在地毯上,床的左右兩邊和床腳距 離地毯邊緣,需留18英寸左右的距離。邊桌則需 整個都在或者整個都不在地毯上,不能半上半下。 並且記得留出衣櫃門前的空間,方便開關。 開放式空間:對於開放式空間,可以先區分出不同區域, 再為每個區域選擇一塊地毯。記得選用同一種風 格的地毯,避免混亂的視覺效果,但不需要一模一 樣,可選用相近色系,或相似圖案但不同深淺等, 製造出多層次的變化。 │41


Bedroom: The rug should be big enough to include at least the lower third of the bed. Also, there should be an 18-inch margin from the sides of the bed to the edges of the rug. You then have the option of placing your bedside tables either completely on or completely off the rug. For easy access to your closet, remember to leave an uncovered floor space in front of its door. Open Spaces: In open-concept rooms, it is best to first divide your space into zones and then select a rug for each area. To avoid visual chaos, select rugs of similar color schemes and patterns. Choosing varied shades of the same color group can help to create layers and depth in the room. COLORS AND PATTERNS When selecting the color and pattern of your rug, always take into consideration the other fabrics in the room, such as your curtains, upholstery, and bedding. When possible, it is best to select a rug first, then base the rest of your furniture on the color scheme of the rug. Aim for similar patterns, color schemes, and designs for a harmonious yet visually interesting space.

TIP-TOP MAINTENANCE To ensure your beloved rug lasts a lifetime, it must be cleaned regularly. This is especially true for families with young children or pets. Prior to making a purchase, be sure to take this into consideration. On a daily basis, running a vacuum over the rug will suffice. Once in a while, you should take your flatweave rugs outside, beat out the dust and debris, and give them a sun bath. Long pile rugs will need to be deep-cleaned yearly. Investing or renting a carpet cleaner is a cost-effective solution. You can also choose to simply send them to professional cleaners and save yourself some elbow grease.

顏色圖案怎麼搭? 地毯的顏色和圖案,需考慮和同一空間中其他布製品, 如窗簾、抱枕、布沙發、床罩等。最保險的辦法,即是 汲取地毯的色系或其中的圖案,再將其延伸擴及整個空 間。可以取同一花紋相近色系,或同一色系相似圖案,創 造出既協調又豐富不單調的空間。 清潔保養如何做? 一塊好的地毯可伴您長長久久,但時間長了一定會遇到 如何清潔的問題,特別是如果有年幼的孩子或寵物,清 潔難易度就更顯重要。因此選購時,務必將地毯清潔納 入考量。日常清潔可用吸塵器,但長纖、長毛的地毯要每 年深度清潔,好好保養才能延長使用年限。而短毛、短 纖的則是要定期拿到室外拍打,曝曬在陽光下。有人選 擇送去專業清潔公司清洗,節省力氣,而另一個比年度 送洗還要經濟簡便的方式,便是租用或擁有一臺好用的 家用地毯清洗機,省下了送洗的支出。 42│


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IMAGES COURTESY OF 1STDIBS, GAN RUGS, LIGNE ROSET, POLIFORM, ROCHE BOBOIS, SPACEJOY AND UNSPLASH.

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1 1920S CHINESE ART DECO CARPET, $12,000, 1STDIBS.COM | 2 LIGNE ROSET, GAVRINIS-3 RUG, $2,225, LIGNE-ROSET.COM | 3 GAN RUGS, SPACES SAIL SMALL RUG IN TAUPE, $1,190, 1STDIBS.COM | 4 POLIFORM, SHINDO RUG, PRICE AVAILABLE UPON REQUEST, POLIFORM.IT | 5 SURYA, WILSON AREA RUG, 8 FEET BY 10 FEET, $2,170, HOUZZ.COM | 6 ROCHE BOBOIS, CIUDAD GUATEMALA RUG, $4,805, ROCHE-BOBOIS.COM

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ELITE HOME

A Treasure on the Hudson River Painter Frederic Edwin Church built Olana as his family's forever home 山坡上的立體「油畫」 名家最後巨作——愛邸歐蘭那 By Bob Kirchman Pictures courtesy of Olana State Historic Park


An aerial view south from Olana, with the Hudson River in the background.


O

n a ridge overlooking the Hudson River, artist Frederic Church composed his last, and perhaps grandest, work: a home and grounds for his family. He purchased the land above his first home, Cosy Cottage, before his trip to the Middle East and Europe. “I have just purchased the woodlot on the top of the hill. I want to secure [it] if possible before I leave every rood [measure] of ground that I shall ever require to make my farm perfect.” Church’s vision was ambitious; not only did he want to expand his working farm, but Church also set out to create a foreground for the magnificent scenery in the distance—linking together a series of vistas with landscaped carriage roads. Church had formerly served as the park commissioner of Central Park and was fascinated with the possibilities of creating beautiful landscapes, working with the beauty already present in the natural world. The hilltop that Church purchased was the same location that he and Thomas Cole visited when he was under Cole’s tutelage. The property overlooked Cole’s home on the Hudson River, and they would often walk there and sketch. Many of Church’s earliest works were inspired by the scenes from this particular site, and it was that very landscape that had started him in his work. Though Church was once the most famous artist in America, his popularity (and career) waned in the 1870s. There was no longer a great demand for his large canvases, and commissions for his paintings of antiquities decreased in frequency. His rheumatoid arthritis also made painting more difficult. As the world forgot about Frederic Edwin Church, the great artist still had the means to devote himself to his family and the building of their amazing estate—a task he set about with great energy.

Olana from the Southwest by Frederic Edwin Church, 1872. Brush and oil on thin paperboard. Gift of Louis P. Church, Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum, New York. _Courtesy of Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum

在一座能俯視哈德遜河畔的山脊上,風景藝術家弗雷德 里克 · 丘奇(Frederic Church)創造其人生裡最後、也 或許是最宏偉的作品——一座為家人而建的家園。 這棟建築所在之地,就位在他自家木屋的上方。他 在啟程前往中東和歐洲的旅途前,就已購入該地。 「 當時 我買下山丘上的那片林地,是因我想要確保每一項能使 我的農地更臻完美的元素,無一不漏。」丘奇有個遠大的 願景,他不只想要擴展農地,也想讓建築坐擁中心位置, 能與周遭的壯麗山景連成一氣。丘奇曾任紐約中央公園 的行政長官,因此他對如何將景觀設計與大自然的原始 美景結合,有著濃厚的興趣。 當丘奇還作為托馬斯 · 科爾(Thomas Cole)的學 徒時,便曾和柯爾一同造訪此山頭,那裡可以俯瞰科爾

IN HARMONY WITH NATURE From his days exploring the Maine wilderness, Church was keen on integrating human activities harmoniously with unspoiled nature. He even included cottages and mills in his paintings of Mount Katahdin, though they did not exist. When he returned from his travels, he planted trees—more than 1,000 of them—and laid out the carriage roads. His property became the canvas upon which he began composing a living landscape. Church wrote of this process: “For several seasons after I selected this spot as my home, 46│

的住處,他們時常走去寫生。當地的景色多是丘奇早期 創作的靈感,雖然丘奇曾是美國最知名的藝術家,但他 的人氣和其職業生涯在 1870 年代日漸衰退,大幅油畫 乏人問津,古物畫作的售價也不如以往。儘管如此,這並 不阻礙丘奇作為一名藝術家的創作,他轉而將其心力投 注於建造這座美麗的家園。 與自然唱合 丘奇格外熱衷於將人類的活動足跡融入大自然中,就像 他在卡塔丁山畫作中,加入了原本不存在的小屋和磨坊。 當他結束旅行返家後,種下了超過一千棵樹,並規劃四


“They say my final masterpiece was this house upon the hill.” —Marc Cohn In 1997, Olana was featured in Architectural Digest, where American singer-songwriter Marc Cohn picked up a copy and found inspiration. What Cohn discovered about Frederic Church motivated him to write the song he also titled “Olana.” “[Church’s] story about his family life and his creative life and his deep love for both resonated with me,” Cohn wrote. “Immediately after reading the article I started writing the lyric. As soon as I hit upon the idea of writing it in the first person—as Frederick Church—I was off and running.”

「他們說我人生中最終的傑作, 就是這棟山坡上的屋子」

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

——Marc Cohn 1997年,一期《建築文摘》中, 刊載了「歐蘭那」的故事。美國詞 曲創作者Marc Cohn順手拿起 了雜誌,並從丘奇和歐蘭那的故 事中獲得靈感,創作了一首名為 「歐蘭那」 (Olana)的歌曲。「丘 奇對於家庭與創作的熱愛,讓我 產生強烈的共鳴。在讀完關於丘 奇的文章後,我馬上投入創作該 曲歌詞。當決定以第一人稱創 Frederic Church translated the tile work, metalwork, and stone carvings of Islamic mosques into stencil patterns for the exterior and interior of the main house.

作、把自己當成『丘奇』寫詞時, 我便飛速的完成了此作。 │47


Left: The design for the sitting room at Olana was highly influenced by Frederic Church’s wife, Isabel. Her portrait hangs on the wall. El Khasné, Petra, one of Church’s large paintings, hangs over the fireplace. Right: Frederic Church’s studio at Olana was added to the main house between 1888 and 1890. The room displays custom wood designs by artist Lockwood de Forest. Great arched windows bordered by amber glass frame the views.

I thought of hardly anything but planting trees, and had thousands and thousands of them set out on the southern and northern slopes.” New York architect Richard Morris Hunt had designed the Churches’ Cosy Cottage and was retained by Church to design the house on the top of the hill. Following the model for the Park Avenue homes he created for his wealthy clients, Hunt sketched out a building that was largely Victorian but a French château in style. Hunt went on to create George Vanderbilt’s vast Biltmore Estate in the mountains of North Carolina.

輪馬車的專屬道路。他在自己的土地上自由揮灑,將風 景化作大型油畫。丘奇記錄了這個過程: 「 我選定此地為 家後的數年間都在一心一意地種樹,將數以千計的樹木 種在了南北兩側的坡地上。」 丘奇聘請了曾替他設計第一間木屋宅的紐約建築師 理查 · 莫里斯 · 杭特(Richard Morris Hunt)擔任他新 家的設計師。杭特以他在曼哈頓公園大道的一些高級公 寓設計案為基礎,規劃了一座帶有維多利亞風格的法國 城堡建築。杭特之後為 George Vanderbilt 設計建造了 位於北卡羅萊納州的畢爾特摩莊園 (Biltmore Estate)。 異國文化的洗禮 但丘奇對新的家園懷有不同的願景,在中東的旅途中,

INSPIRED BY THE MIDDLE EAST Church had a different vision for his estate; his imagination had been stirred by a far more exotic muse. Awakened by his travels in the Middle East, Church found inspiration in Moorish and Persian designs. He asked his friend and architect Calvert Vaux (one of the designers for New York’s Central Park) to help him with the creation of this new vision. It was Church himself, however, who brought the project to life, and he fully immersed himself in building this masterpiece. He created scores of renderings as he experimented with Eastern motifs; tile patterns, intricate tile work, and screens f lowed from his hands. The paint colors for the 48│

他親眼見識了非州摩爾和波斯的設計風格,激起他對異 國情懷的想像力。他尋求建築師朋友、紐約中央公園的 設計者之一卡爾弗特 · 沃克斯(Calvert Vaux )協助打 造他的理想。但最終還是透過丘奇自己全心投入,將此 計畫付諸實行。丘奇實驗性地將中東圖樣畫成一幅幅手 稿,磁磚上的圖案、繁複的磁磚拼貼、精巧的屏風隔板, 皆透過他的巧手完成,許多不同房間的刷色皆由他親自 調色。最終,建築保留了當初杭特設計的主體,並在沃 克斯和丘奇聯手下,成功讓這棟充滿異國風情的城堡, 落成於哈德遜河畔的山丘之上。丘奇家族將這座城堡命 名為「 歐蘭那」 (Olana),靈感來自波斯傳說中,可眺望 伊甸園的藏寶要塞。 這棟城堡建於 1870 至 1872 年間。丘奇親自參與設 計,因此建造期間,他向建築工匠耳提面命許多搭建的


Located at the center of the main house in Olana, the Court Hall is adorned with Islamic arches and a mix of decorations from the Middle East, the Americas, and India.

various rooms were initially mixed on Church’s palette. Though Hunt’s original massing of the house remained, Vaux and Church transformed it into a treasure palace from another land. The Churches named their palace Olana, inspired by a legendary Persian treasure house and fortress thought by some to overlook the Garden of Eden. The house was built between 1870 and 1872. Church himself designed many of the details and taught the local craftsmen the correct way to build them. “A feudal castle, which I am building under the modest name of a dwelling house, absorbs all my time and attention. I am obliged to imagine Persian architecture, then embody it on paper, and explain it to a

細節。他表示, 「 ( 這座)僅以『 住家 』的名義建造,宛如 中心領地的城堡,投注了我所有的時間和精力。我必須 將腦海中的波斯建築繪於紙上,再向工匠解釋。」 以家為本 儘管室內裝潢直到1876年才完工,丘奇夫婦和四個孩子 早已先 入住 上 層樓房。其夫人伊莎貝爾 · 丘奇(Isabel Church)在孩子年幼時選擇在家教育。夫妻倆以家庭為 生活重心,而他們也總是全家一起出外旅行。「 歐蘭那」 成為弗雷德里克和伊莎貝爾共同持續創作的大型作品。 「 有時候,想要建造的欲望讓我陷入狂熱的趕工狀 態。」丘奇曾如此描述他對這棟房子的熱愛。夫婦倆運 用他們的創造力和想像力,填滿其居家空間,用在歐洲 和中東旅行 18 個月期間的收藏品,點綴家中各個角落。 │49


lot of mechanics.” Church often experimented with a variety of designs on paper before committing them to actual construction. A FAMILY FOCUS The Churches and their four children moved into the upper f loors even though the interior of the house was not completed until 1876. Isabel Church homeschooled their children when they were young. Family was the focus for both parents, and they always traveled together. Olana became the canvas that Frederic and Isabel Church continued to work on together. “Sometimes the desire to build attacks a man like a fever, and at it he rushes,” Church said of his passion for the house. Together, he and Isabel created a space for their family to live in that reflected their creativity and imagination. They filled the house with furnishings acquired on their 18-month trip to Europe and the Middle East. Church obtained fine art by other artists and was even able to buy back some of his own work at auction. The house became a gallery as well as a celebration of the family’s life. The dining room was a mixture of European and Middle Eastern styles, and Church selected copies of old masterworks to hang on its walls. Every inch of the house was filled with decorative art. Windows, framed by Persian motifs, opened upon magnificent views. In 1871, Church wrote: “The house will be a curiosity in architecture, and the picture from each window will be truly marvelous.” The eclectic decor was indeed an invitation to great conversations.

light. After dinner, there would often be recitations, tableaux, readings, and charades in the richly appointed court (center) hall. Don Wescott, narrator for a documentary about Olana, said: “The Church family home framed the living of daily life. It nurtured and protected their family.” The construction of the Churches’ estate also illustrated the journey made by Frederic and Isabel—a young couple that endured the death of their first two children and rose together to create a masterpiece home for their continued family to enjoy. Isabel passed away in 1899 and Frederic 11 months later. “Olana the house lives on as a wonderful curiosity, but Olana the home is so much more—it truly celebrates lives well-lived.

有時,丘奇會收到其他藝術家的創作,也會在拍賣會上 買回自己的畫作,因此,新居儼然成了一間美術館,對丘 奇一家的生活而言,有如一道祝福。 家中點綴著各式的裝飾品,如用餐空間融合了歐洲 和中東風格,丘奇選了一些大師的複製品懸掛於此空間。 用波斯式樣窗框裝飾的窗戶,往外正對著絕妙的景色。 丘奇在 1871 年寫下: 「 這棟房子將會成為建築學的珍奇 之作,每道窗戶放眼望去的畫面也將無與倫比。」如此兼 容並蓄的裝飾風格,自然會帶來各方人士的激烈討論。 會友日常 儘管丘奇一家未被不斷前行的世界所惦記,但他們仍持 續在這新天地款待好友。作家塞姆 · 克萊門斯( 即馬克 · 吐溫)會造訪「 歐蘭那」,並朗讀詩詞。通常,「 歐蘭那」 的一天始於晨間8點,準時奉上的早點。餐後,丘奇家和 客人會先聚在起居室讀聖經,再進行戶外活動,周邊佔

ENTERTAINING FRIENDS Though the Churches were forgotten by the world outside, they still entertained their many friends in their new palace. Author Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) visited Olana and read poetry there. The day at Olana began with breakfast promptly served at 8 o’clock. After breakfast, the family and guests would gather in the sitting room for Bible reading before engaging in outdoor activities. Acres of wonder awaited discovery. In addition to being a working farm, Church’s landscapes provided endless vistas of the beautiful Hudson Valley. Lunch followed a full morning of activities, after which guests devoted themselves to quiet activities such as reading, napping, and letter writing. Evenings would find the family and their guests gathered on the piazza to savor the views in the golden 50│

數畝的大片土地可供探索。除了農場外,在丘奇的園內也 可欣賞哈德遜峽谷的壯麗。充實的晨間活動後,大家共 進午餐,隨之各自沈浸在自己的靜態活動中,例如閱讀、 小憩或寫信。 丘奇家和客人們在傍晚時會聚在露天廣場上,細細 品味太陽西夏的金黃時刻。晚餐酒足飯飽後,則多在富 麗堂皇的大廳進行朗誦、重現舞台場景、猜字遊戲等活 動。一部關於「 歐蘭那」的紀錄片的旁白曾說: 「 丘奇一 家用日常的豐富活動來裝點他們的房子。它滋養並守護 著丘奇一家。」建造丘奇家過程也呼應了弗雷德里克與 伊莎貝爾的人生旅程:一對歷經兩次喪子之痛的年輕伴 侶,一同成長並共同為自己和下一代打造這間傑作。伊 莎貝爾在 1899 年過世,弗雷德里克於 11 個月後也隨之 離世。 「 歐蘭那」這棟建築本身已是美妙與驚奇滿載之 所,但「 歐蘭那」作為一座家園,則承載更深遠的意義 ——它歌頌著這些豐富而充實的人生。


│51


ELITE FOOD

A Sweet Treat for Valentines Meet the Chef Couple: Genevieve Gergis and Ori Menashe

美味關係 遇見主廚——珍妮薇 · 捷吉絲和歐里 · 蒙納許 As told to Crystal Shi Photography by Adam Amengual and Nicole Franzen

Bestia, Bavel 和 Saffy’s 洛杉磯 名廚兼業主,相戀至今17年

A SOUR START: “We met at a restaurant called La Terza. I worked the salad station, she was the host. I had a crush on her from day one. But she wasn’t into me.” —Ori Menashe 單戀的酸楚:「 我們初遇的地方是 一 家 叫 做La Terza的 餐 廳, 當 時 我在沙拉部門,而她是外場領班。 我對她一見鍾情,但她對我一點意 思也沒有。」

ew Year’s the day before N as w “It T: IN prep TU R N ING PO ay overnight to me if I could st d ke as ef ch the e to th and someone if I could invite d ke as I . od fo al l the o’clo ck in the me at arou nd 1 ca e Sh r. te af re st au ra nt a beet salad.” oked her a meal— —Menashe morning and I co 班 當 晚可 不 可以 加 一 天,主 廚 問我 前 的 年 新 是 那 「 轉捩 點 : 作完 成之後,是 我問主 廚,當工 。 材 食 有 所 的 餐 廳, 我 準 備 隔 天所需 在凌 晨一 點到 達 來 餐 廳 用 餐。 她 友 朋 請 邀 以 — 可 — 蒙納許 否 。」 菜 沙 拉 請 她 享用 甜 的 味 美 道 一 準 備了

at but he knew th und rom antic , so t n’ es do it “I know was going to e restaurant. He th at d la sa et talk ing I liked the be got to, we were o—but we never to k, ea gis st a e ak ve m —G enev ie G er ” h. 歡 uc too m 過 他 知 道 我 最喜

漫, 不 來 實 在 不怎 麼 浪 ,但我們 「 我知道這聽起 要做 一 份 牛 排 的 也 沙拉了。他本來 菜 甜 道 吉絲 那 是 就 薇 的 — — 珍妮 · 捷 間 再做料理。」 時 沒 , 了 入 投 太 聊得

——歐里 · 蒙納許

MEMORABLE BITES: “Because I worked so late, the only way for us to hang out was late at night. She would make me this awesome sandwich.” —Menashe

“It’s a breakfasty sandwich, but at night. I did a soft-scrambled egg scrambled with a little bit of crème fraîche. Then I would take a toasted baguette with salami, a bit of mustard and mayonnaise or aioli, and cheese, either provolone or —Gergis havarti, and I would put the egg over it.”

「 由於我很晚才下班, 記憶中的滋味: 所以 只能在深 夜 擠出一 點 時間 來 約

「 這其實是早餐三明治的作法,但當做宵夜吃。我會先用法

會。這時,她就會做這道完美的三明

塗少許芥末醬和美乃滋或蛋黃醬、加一點普羅沃洛內起司或

治。」

52│

——蒙納許

式酸奶油把蛋炒好備用,烤法式長棍麵包,夾入意式臘腸、 哈伐第起司,然後把炒蛋放在最上面。」

——捷吉絲

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

Chef-owners of Bestia, Bavel, and Saffy’s, Los Angeles, together for 17 years.


ROMANTIC RITUALS: “He makes me tea every morning. My favorite is Native Cultivar Reserve from Red Blossom Tea Company—it’s very honey-ish, nectar-ish. He knows how to make it perfectly—the exact steep time, temperature, and amount. I’m a very picky tea drinker.” —Gergis 「 他每天早上都會幫我泡茶。我最喜歡的 浪漫儀式: 茶是Red Blossom Tea Company的原生種保育 茶,帶有濃郁的蜂蜜和堅果香。他知道如何精準掌 握浸泡時間、溫度和茶葉分量,泡出最好的味道。 我對喝茶可是非常挑剔的!」

——捷吉絲

“I’ve been a tea drinker since meeting Genevieve. —Menashe I used to be an alcohol drinker.” 「 遇見珍妮薇之後,我才開始喝茶。以前,我愛喝 的是酒。」

MOST ADMIRABLE TRAITS: “She doesn’t cease to amaze me. She is able to handle so much, and she does it so well. I look up to her. She’s a very highly intelligent human being—who’s beautiful as well.” —Menashe 做 對方的伯樂:「 她 一 再 讓 我 大 開 眼 界,不管遇到什麼狀況,總是那麼游刃 有餘。我非常崇拜她。她非常聰明,同 時也非常美麗。」

——蒙納許

“I’ve never in my life seen anyone who has his perseverance for doing things the right way, and his drive to work really hard every day to get something exactly the way he envisioned it. But he also doesn’t let his drive get in the way of his compassion. He brings everyone into the fold with him, to have that drive —Gergis along with him.” 「 我 這輩 子從沒 遇 過 像他 這 樣有恆心

——蒙納許

in g a g re at d in E S : "S h e' s T A D e S , U ip lationsh w D E L IC IO ars of our re ye e fiv t rs go fi t ouldn' partner. The movies, we w see too many to go restaut n' ld wou s would be at te da r ou h; o muc out it." to the bar to and talking ab od fo w ne ng —Menashe rants, tr yi

的頭 五 。在我們交往 的美食好夥 伴 我 是 她 選在 「 會: 約 們 美好 酒 吧。 我 都 影, 也不常去 電 看 去 。」 題 常 話 不 食物的 年, 我 們 ,並暢聊關於 物 食 的 新 試 納 ——蒙 許 餐廳 約會,嘗

IN THE FAMILY: "Our daughter is a really good eater for being 8. Not a lot of kids down a whole pot of steamed clams or mussels. She loves vegetables, too." —Gergis

情做到他預想中最好的狀 態。他也從

「 以一個8歲孩子來說,我們的女 青出於藍: 兒是位傑出的美食家!並不是每個孩子都能

未因這份堅持而將和善的態度拋諸腦

吃完整鍋清蒸蛤蜊或淡菜。她也很愛吃蔬菜

後,他會跟大家一起努力,帶領所有人

喔!」

毅力的人,每天堅持不懈,盡全力把事

一起往前邁進。」

——捷吉絲

——捷吉絲

│53


Mexican Wedding Cookies Genevieve Gergis has made these cookies, her husband Ori Menashe’s favorite, every holiday for as long as she can remember. Her version of the classic recipe employs rye flour, pecans, and a generous dose of salt for extra nutty, buttery, not-too-sweet results. For denser cookies (like Menashe likes), cream the butter for a minute. For a lighter, airier version (like Gergis prefers), cream the butter for 4 to 5 minutes.

Makes about 40 cookies INGREDIENTS 1 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature 1/2 cup powdered sugar, plus more for dusting 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 3/4 cups pecan halves, very finely chopped 1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour 6 tablespoons rye flour 1 teaspoon kosher salt

DIRECTIONS In a bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium speed until pale and glossy, about 5 minutes. Add powdered sugar and beat on low speed to high until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl about halfway through. Add the vanilla and beat for 1 minute. Add the nuts and beat briefly on low speed just until incorporated. In a small bowl, whisk together the flours and salt. Add to the batter and mix on very low speed until just incorporated and the mixture forms a loose, shaggy dough. Do not overmix. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.

Shape the dough into ping-pong-size balls and place them about 2 inches apart on the prepared baking sheet. Transfer the whole sheet to the refrigerator for 5 minutes to re-chill briefly. Bake until just barely golden on top, 20 to 25 minutes. Once cookies are cooled, dust with powdered sugar and enjoy. Reprinted with permission from “Bestia: Italian Recipes Created in the Heart of L.A.” by Ori Menashe, Genevieve Gergis, and Lesley Suter (Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House, 2018). 54│

ILLUSTRATIONS BY FREEPIK, RAWPIXEL.COM, PHOTOGRAPHEEASIA

Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.


墨西哥式婚禮餅乾 每當節假日來臨時,捷吉絲必做的這款墨西哥 式婚禮餅乾,是她先生蒙納許的最愛。捷吉絲 獨家的婚禮餅乾,用的是裸麥麵粉、山核桃, 並加了足量的鹽,帶出了堅 果味、奶油香,且 不致太過甜膩的可口甜品。如果您也和蒙納許 一樣偏好扎實口感,奶油打1分鐘就好;捷吉絲 則喜歡較為輕盈的口感,那麼就加長打奶油的 時間,需4~5分鐘。

可做40塊餅乾

材料 1杯無鹽奶油,室溫 1/2杯糖粉,再加上一點最後裝飾用 2茶匙香草萃取液 1又3/4杯山核桃仁,切碎 1又1/3杯中筋麵粉 6大匙裸麥麵粉 1茶匙猶太鹽

作法 將攪拌器裝上攪拌槳,用中速攪拌奶油約5 分鐘,直到奶油顏色變淺、表面出現光澤。 加入糖粉後,用低速攪拌,再逐漸增加至高 速。總共約 打5分鐘,直到奶油變 得輕 盈蓬 鬆。中間可稍停一下,將四散的奶油集中再 繼續。 加入香草萃取液後再打1分鐘,然後一面把碎 山核桃仁加進去,一面慢速攪拌直到均勻。 取一小碗,倒入麵粉跟鹽拌勻後,慢慢倒入 攪拌碗稍微打一下,直到麵粉和奶油大致混 合即可,不要過度攪拌。將麵團用保鮮膜包 起來,放入冰箱冷卻2小時。 將烤箱預熱至325 ℉,在烤盤上鋪烘焙紙。 把麵團捏成約乒乓球大小,放置於烤盤上, 彼此距離2英吋左右。把整個烤盤連麵團放 入冰箱再冷卻約5分鐘,然後送入烤箱烤約 20~25分鐘,直到餅乾表面微微金黃。 在餅乾冷卻之後,撒上糖粉即可大快朵頤。 │55


ELITE TRAVEL

A TALE OF TRADITIONS TOLD LOVINGLY IN TILE Fonthill, a castle like no other, showcases archaeological and ceramic treasures 賓州城堡:一磚一瓦刻寫美國特色 By Matthew John Photography by Kevin Crawford Imagery LLC

56│

方特希爾城堡(Fonthill)位於位於美國賓夕法尼亞州 的多伊爾斯敦城內。這座氣宇不凡的巨大中世紀風格城 堡,擁有直指天空的高樓與尖塔,屋頂護欄及煙囪。不 過,有別於歐洲古堡的建造目的——防禦與威懾外敵, 方特希爾城堡則為了教育、鼓舞人心而生。城堡共有44 間獨一無二的房間,裡面展示著城堡主人畢生的收藏, 堪稱為一座生活博物館。在冰冷混凝土鑄造的外觀內, 處處洋溢著色彩與溫度,充滿生命力。 幾近失傳的工藝 亨利 · 查普曼 · 默瑟(Henry Chapman Mercer)多才 多藝,就像著名電影角色印第安納 · 瓊斯,他自學成材, 將童年喜愛冒險與蒐集的精神,轉變為日後的職業—— 一名考古學家,後來還任賓夕法尼亞大學博物館館長一 職。 1908年,時年51歲的默瑟,開始計畫 建 造 這棟建 築。方特希爾城堡是他夢想與心血的結晶。

THIS ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN AMERICAN ESSENCE MAGAZINE.

W

hile from a distance, Fonthill Castle, in Doylestown, Pennsylvania, does much to evoke its European counterparts with its imposing, bulky countenance, its heavenward towers and spires, its parapets and chimneys. But inside and at its heart, it’s an altogether different creature. If the castles of yore across the Atlantic were meant to protect and deter, this is every bit the opposite: a castle meant to nurture, inspire, and preserve. This massive, medieval-like structure, even though cast in cold concrete, is pulsing with warmth, color, and vitality on its inside. Each of its unique 44 rooms was meant to be both a home for its creator as well as a living museum of sorts. On display is its owner’s staggering collection of tileware and prints gathered over a lifetime of expeditions and research.


Winter's first snow at Fonthill Castle.


RESTORING A NEARLY LOST CRAFT Fonthill was the brainchild—and life’s dream—of Henry Chapman Mercer, a Doylsetown native who began planning its construction in 1908 at the age of 51. Part Renaissance man, part Indiana Jones, Mercer had by then transformed a childhood love of collecting into a career as an archaeologist (self-taught) that culminated with a distinguished post as curator at the University of Pennsylvania Museum. Mercer fell in love with the human past and its physical legacy over the course of multiple trips and expeditions, beginning first with a “Grand Tour” (as it was then called) following his graduation from Harvard in 1879. Mercer’s travels included much of Europe, the Yucatán, and the Middle East—when not excavating prehistoric sites along the Atlantic seaboard from Maine to Tennessee. One encounter played a formative role in Fonthill’s conception. This was Mercer’s discovery of the nearly lost craft of pottery making among Pennsylvanian Germans. The colorful, playful nature of their ceramic ware struck a chord with the budding scholar. His determination to learn the elusive craft would eventually take him all the way to Germany’s Black Forest. And it is Mercer’s passion for the potters’ legacy that shines through so overwhelmingly at Fonthill. Whatever room you enter, nearly every swath of wall, nook of f loor, and vault of ceiling is adorned with custom tilework—the vast majority of it Mercer’s own creation. He was so enamored with the old world craft that after his travels, he established his own pottery kiln, adjacent to Fonthill, where he fashioned many of his designs. Some were reproductions of exquisite European designs he had seen in cloisters or fabled estates. Others were purely the product of his imagination. Mercer’s tile creations bespeak his colorful personality—reflecting a vast range of themes and interests, if not moods, from the playful to the sublime.

Top: Now a major research center, the Mercer Museum Library is home to more than 20,000 books, periodicals, and pamphlets. Right: Fonthill Saloon, the largest room in the castle, is where Henry Mercer held occasional parties.

早在 1879 年,默瑟從哈佛大學畢業後,展開了人 生第一次「 壯遊 」。此後,在多次旅遊與考察中,他愛 上了早期的人類與其文化遺產,曾經走訪大多數的歐洲 國家、墨西哥的猶加敦半島,也到過中東地區。 一次偶然的經歷,默瑟發現德裔賓州人製造的陶製 品,這是項幾近失傳的工藝。這些作品繽紛的色彩與調

SOURCES OF INSPIRATION Some installments depict Biblical scenes, while others are taken from the pages of Charles Dickens. Chinese, Persian, Spanish, and Dutch tilework feature throughout. The Columbus Room, the crow ning jewel of Fonthill’s many rooms, is one charming example. It 58│

皮有趣的特性,在這位剛嶄露頭角的學者心中,引起了 深深的共鳴。他決定學習這項困難的工藝,還為此去了 德國黑森林,這也影響他日後建造方特希爾城堡的風格 理念。 旅程 歸 來後,因為對 世界 各地老 舊手工藝品的喜 愛,他甚至在城堡旁邊蓋了一座燒陶用的窯,在那裡手 工打造自己設計的作品,有的是複製他在歐洲建築中見


documents the explorer’s life and spirit of adventure, adoringly, in tiles of every imaginable hue. The room positively radiates with appreciation for a historical figure whose staggering achievements rightly deserve remembrance. Mercer dedicated the room to the aunt who had enabled the building of Fonthill with her generous bequest to him. Mercer’s sense of gratitude for the forces in his life is on full display elsewhere, too. In the ceiling of one hallway, Mercer inscribed the names of all those who designed, built, and set the tiles. One also sees Mercer’s faith woven into the very core of the building. Ascending the steps to the main

到的精緻設計,有的則是出自他個人的想像力。默瑟製 作的陶瓦和磁磚作品,顯示了他有趣、豐富的個性,作 品中涵蓋各種主題,也展現其廣泛的興趣,其中不乏一 些絕美的作品。 默瑟對陶製文物的熱情,在方特希爾城堡裡展露 無遺,隨意走進一個房間,幾乎每一面牆壁、地板的每 一角、拱頂天花板的每一處,都裝飾著特製的磁磚或陶 瓦,而且絕大多數是默瑟自己的創作。 展現美國風格 有的磁磚描繪一系列《聖經》中的場景,有的則是以狄更 斯的文學作品為題材。充滿異國風的創作也隨處可見, 如中國風、波斯風、西班牙和荷蘭等風格的作品。 │59


Top: The museum houses Mercer’s collection of more than 50,000 man-made artifacts. Left: The Mercer Museum is an encyclopedic collection of artifacts from 60 different crafts and trades, including hand tools, horse-drawn carriages, whale boats, and clocks.

在城 堡的眾多房間之中,最珍 貴的就 屬哥 倫布廳 (The Columbus Room),這是默瑟最迷人的代表作。 房間中的彩繪瓦片,以人們能夠想像到的各種顏色,記 錄了這名探險家的一生與冒險精神。在這裡,可以感受 到整個空間散發出默瑟對哥倫布濃烈的崇拜。 默瑟將這個房間獻給了他的阿姨——她留給默瑟的 大筆遺產,使其得以建造這棟城堡。在城堡的其他地方, 也能夠看出這份感激之情對他的影響:所有設計、建造、 設置這些磚瓦的人,他們的名字都被默瑟刻在一條走廊 的天花板上。 順著階梯往上走,來到城堡的主要入口。默瑟以彩 色磚瓦將他的信仰編排在整棟建築最核心的位置,這是 出自《聖經 · 詩篇》中的一句話: 「 若不是耶和華建造房 屋,建造的人就枉然勞力。」 60│


entrance of the building, colorful tiles proclaim: “Except the Lord build the house, they labor in vain that build it.” So adored were Mercer’s tiles that his kiln regularly shipped his designs throughout not only the United States, but also the world. His works became a major force in the American Arts and Crafts movement, and were, for all their inf luences, distinctly American. Mercer fittingly dubbed Fonthill “a castle for the New World.” A BOLD INNOVATOR But perhaps most remarkable of all is the story of Mercer’s own derring-do. Incredibly, it was Mercer himself who designed the entire castle—down to every last tread of its 32 winding stairwells. This was a man with no formal architectural training, and he had not a single engineer on his team, never mind the assistance of modern CAD software. Mercer eschewed the possibility of enlisting architects on his team, not for frugality’s sake, as one might imagine, but so that, it seemed, their self-limiting frameworks wouldn’t hem in his expansive imagination. He wanted to build in ways nobody had before; he didn’t want experts telling him what was and wasn’t possible. (Indeed, one concrete expert who caught wind of Mercer’s ambitious plans laughed at the idea—until he saw it taking shape and experienced “a change in his attitude,” as Mercer generously put it.) At the time, nobody could be sure if the castle would even stand, let alone fulfill Mercer’s exceptionally innovative conceptions. And innovate, he did. To get his dear tilework embedded solidly enough into the ceilings, Mercer had to invent a new form of temporary interior scaffolding, involving hundreds of pounds of sand filling, such that concrete could be poured over (and thus behind and above) the tile pieces, forming vaults. To everyone’s surprise, Mercer’s ceilings were a resounding success. Equally exceptional was the fact that Mercer assembled a small crew of unskilled day laborers— just 8 to 12 men—to execute all aspects of construction under Mercer’s watchful eye. With no big ideas of their own, and an unquestioning draft horse named Lucy to hoist cement bags up all those stories, Mercer’s dutiful crew would do little to curb his aspirations.

Mercer’s masterpiece is thus, at its heart, quintessentially American in its boldness of vision, its innovative spirit, and its unfailing individuality. “I haven’t any precedent for it,” Mercer told a reporter in 1908 as construction commenced. “I am simply following out my own ideas.” Mercer’s castle is thus a triumph of the spirit as much as one of engineering, a ref lection of a moment in American history when one could dream bigger than anyone had, without the burden of endless regulations dampening one’s enthusiasm for the possible.

默瑟的磚瓦作品深受大眾喜愛,其創作不只流傳美 國各地,還被運往世界各國。他的作品對美國美術與工 藝變遷有很大影響,展現出美國特有的風格,而默瑟也 理所應當地稱方特希爾城堡為「 代表新大陸的城堡 」。 打破束縛 創造無限 關於這座城堡,最了不起的故事也許是默瑟本人的大膽 之舉。默瑟獨自一人完成了整棟城堡的建築設計,連32 座蜿蜒的樓梯,皆出自他之手。他沒有受過正規建築訓 練,而且團隊中也沒有任何一位工程師,更別提當時電 腦輔助設計軟體都還沒出現呢! 默瑟刻意不讓建築師加入他的團隊,原因不在節省 資金,而是不想讓自我受限的建築架構,阻礙其遼闊的 想像力。他想用前人未嘗試過的建築工法,打造這棟城 堡。儘管有一名混凝土專家曾經嘲笑過其計畫,隨著城 堡逐漸成形後,這名專家也轉變了態度。在當時,沒有 人可以確認城堡真的能成功蓋起,也不會相信默瑟那些 無比創新的構想真能實現。 他的想法的確相當新穎,為了讓珍貴的陶磚作品牢 固地嵌入天花板,默瑟發明了一種新型室內用臨時鷹架, 用了數百磅的沙子填充物,讓混凝土能夠注入一塊塊磁 磚與陶片間,並組成天花板的拱頂。讓所有人更為驚訝 的是,他建造的天花板可謂相當成功。 此外,默瑟的建造團隊,是由一群沒有特殊技能的 臨時工人組成,人數僅 8~12 人,他們在默瑟謹慎的監督 下,進行各方面的建設。靠著這幾位臨時工人,與一匹名 為露西的輓馬,他們將一袋袋水泥運至所有樓層。 默瑟的傑作,體現出大膽的想像力、創新精神與經 久不衰的個人特徵,成為了典型的美國特色。 1908 年, 建造工程剛開始時,默瑟曾告訴一名記者: 「 我從未見 過任何先例,我只是單純地執行我的構想。」默瑟的城 堡成為工程學的一項偉大成就,它反映了美國歷史中的 一個要素,就是當有人懷抱比任何人都遠大的志向時, 只要少了無數的規則作為束縛,就有無限的可能。 │61


ELITE EVENTS

THE TAIWANESE JUNIOR CHAMBER OF COMMERCE OF NEW YORK Celebrating the Fifth Anniversary 紐約臺灣青商會 五周年慶祝晚宴 By Wang Xiao Fei | Photography by Michale Yu

The board of directors of the Taiwanese Chamber of Commerce of New York (TCCNY) and the Taiwanese Junior Chamber of Commerce of New York (TJCCNY).

T

he Taiwanese Junior Chamber of Commerce of New York (TJCCNY) celebrated its fifth anniversary with a gala in Flushing, New York, on December 10, 2022. Approximately 150 people engaged in business and special guests from the local community attended the gathering. VIP guests included Yu-Ching Pai, president of the Taiwanese Chamber of Commerce of New York; Pei-Ying Chen, deputy director of the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office in New York; Li-Xuan Huang, director of the Overseas Community Affairs; Wei Ding, director of the Investment and Trade Office; and 62│

紐約臺灣青商會於去年(2022)12月10日在法拉盛御庭 舉辦商會五周年慶祝晚宴,當晚約有150名商界及社區 人士出席。此次晚宴嘉賓包括:紐約臺灣商會會長白育 青、駐紐約臺北經濟文化辦事處副處長陳珮瑩、僑務組 主任黃儷萱、駐美投資貿易服務處主任丁偉、臺灣對外 貿易發展協會主任蔡秀珍等。晚會特邀新亞室內樂協會 的傑出音樂家們現場演奏佳曲。 青商會會長王建凱介紹,臺灣青商會致力為 20 至 40 歲的青年實業家及專業人士,提供一個相互交流的 平臺,幫助海外華人在美國分享資源、發展事業。會員 多來自金融、藝術、文化以及科技界人士,該會也歡迎 來自臺灣以外的青年加入。


Left: The gala emcees: Jacky Huang (L), an officer of TJCCNY, and Peggy Chiang, a member of the board of directors. Right: NACMS musicians (L–R) Nan-Cheng Chen, Doris Du, Joyce Chen, and Andy Lin.

Xiuchun Cai, director of Taiwan External Trade Development Council. The musicians of the New Asia Chamber Music Society (NACMS) performed at the gala. According to Alex Wang, president of TJCCNY, the organization’s mission is to create a platform for young industrialists and professionals between the ages of 20 and 40 to communicate with each other. The organization aims to help overseas Asians in America to network, share resources, and further their careers. Many of the organization’s current members are active in fields such as finance, arts, performing arts, and science and technology. TJCCNY is also open to non-Taiwanese youths who are interested in joining. In 2022, TJCCNY hosted the annual Taiwan Day at Citi Field and co-hosted a benefit concert along with The Garden of Hope Foundation and Taiwan Fund for Children and Families. TJCCNY has also arranged for musicians from Taiwan to perform the U.S. national anthem alongside NACMS musicians at Madison Square Garden to open for the New York Knicks. In addition, the organization hosted two badminton championships, as well as the fourth annual Mentoring Learning Lab workshop, and other activities across various industries. For more information, please visit tccny.epizy.com

王建凱回顧了 2022 年主辦和協辦的各類活動,包 括在花旗球場舉辦「 臺灣日 」、偕同紐約勵馨及臺灣家 扶基金會舉辦慈善募款音樂會、邀請臺灣音樂家和新亞 室內樂協會於麥迪遜花園廣場,為紐約尼克隊演奏國歌 開場表演,另主辦兩次羽毛球錦標賽,以及續辦今年以 來到第四屆的「 師徒傳承領航計畫 」,積極參與各領域 活動,期許下一年也能繼續精采與活躍。

Alex Wang (L), president of TJCCNY, presenting the raffle prize to a lucky recipient. │63


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讓世界為之驚嘆的頂級演出 史詩般的鉅作

神韻藉由表演把人類文明中偉大的寶藏―― 華夏五千年文化精華,濃 縮成為一場超越時 空、啟發靈性之旅。

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