ELITE magazine Jan-Feb 2018 East edition by 《時尚精英》: Premier Chinese Luxury Magazine

E L I TE 時尚精英

Michelangelo 神性的回聲

Hsiao-Hung Lin 幸運的使命

Gianni Tarabini & Franco Aliberti 從農場、牧原到餐桌 JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2018

Jennifer Ouellette 頂級製帽師的技藝與商道

美妝護膚時尚趨勢雅宅品鑑家居巧思理財規劃

trends 2018 SPRING

ISSUE 30

春季流行趨勢

January-February 2018 $6.99

展銷廳展銷廳

是烹飪和冷藏產品中的佼佼者。是烹飪和冷藏產品中的佼佼者。請帶上您的平面圖與我們的家居專家探討各個細節，品味您的新廚房所具備的一切可能。請帶上您的平面圖與我們的家居專家探討各個細節，品味您的新廚房所具備的一切可能。請訪問我們的三個展銷廳了解更多信息。 Sub-Zero and and Wolf Wolf 是是烹飪和冷藏產品中的佼佼者。 Sub-Zero 烹for 飪和冷藏產品中的佼佼者。 appliances. Sub-Zero and Wolf is the best-in-class your cooking and refrigeration 請訪問我們的三個展銷廳了解更多信息。 Sub-Zero and Wolf 是烹飪和冷藏產品中的佼佼者。請帶上您的平面圖與我們的家居專家探討各個細節，品味您的新廚房所具備的一切可能。 Sub-Zero Wolf iswith the our best-in-class for個 your cooking and refrigeration appliances. Bring 請帶上 your plans and and talk details resident experts and get a taste of all that your new kitchen can be. 您的平面圖與我們的家居專家探討各細節，品味您的新廚房所具備的一切可能。 Bring your請帶上您的平面圖與我們的家居專家探討各個細節，品味您的新廚房所具備的一切可能。 plans and talk details 請訪問我們的三個 with experts and get a taste of all that your new kitchen can be. 請訪問我們的三個展銷廳了解更多信息。 Visitour usresident at our three showroom locations. 展銷廳了解更多信息。 Visit us at our three showroom locations. 請訪問我們的三個展銷廳了解更多信息。

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目錄 CONTENTS

Editor’ s Note 採編隨筆

Editor’s Picks for Her

Editor’s Picks for Him

女士禮物精選男士禮物精選

Hot New Beauty Items

Rosy Winter Look

護膚美妝新品玫紅妝點亮冬季

Rejuvenating Skin Boosters 養護佳品讓肌膚煥發光彩

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2018 Spring Trends 禮服造型細節配飾 The Tradition of Patek Philippe 百達翡麗的堅持：傳統．創新．美感

The Art and Business of a Manhattan Milliner 曼哈頓頂級製帽師的技藝與商道

Preserving and Practicing a Lost Classical Art 幸運的使命: 神韻領舞演員林孝紘

The Divine Creative Process of Michelangelo 神性的回聲

From Farm and Field, to the Table

A Luxury Red Wine from Above the Clouds

從農場、牧原到餐桌來自雲端的葡萄酒「敖雲」

Tea Fit for Royalty 都市裡的水晶宮

COVER

People: Hsiao-Hung Lin Photographer: Larry Dai Makeup and Hair: Annie Li

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Living Screen House 綠意盎然的環保私宅

Bring Spring Indoors 巧思打造盎然春意

優尚生活藝術 S OTHE BYSHOMES.CO M/NYC

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5 臥 , 4.5 浴 | 910fifthave11a.com | $17,500,000 Serena Boardman, 212.606.7611

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序 EDITOR’S NOTE

Finding Peace 內心的寧靜

In the twinkle of an eye, another year has passed as we bid farewell to 2017 and welcome 2018. Like a coursing river, time rushes forth ceaselessly. Caught in this torrent, we race forward, chasing after milestones in the distance. Our minds are forced to adapt to ever-changing circumstances. Our hearts are mired in turbulence. Enveloped by our dazzling, fast-paced, and bustling surroundings, we turn inward in search of purity, slowness, and tranquility—qualities epitomized by the individuals featured in this issue. Hsiao-Hung Lin, pictured on the cover, embodies this intrinsic purity. Since coming from Taiwan to join Shen Yun Performing Arts in New York, she has blossomed into an effortlessly graceful young woman as she tours the globe showcasing the exquisite art of classical Chinese dance.

her beautiful, hand-crafted hats. Despite metamorphosing trends and styles, she holds firmly to tradition, immersed in a life of both simplicity and splendor. This edition of Elite Lifestyle spotlights individuals who have devoted their lives to the consummation of their crafts. We hope their stories can fill your heart with peace.

彈指一揮間，時光又溜走一年。冬季的暖陽中，我們告別2017，迎來2018。時間如洪流般奔波不息，被挾裹著，人們不由自主地總在追趕著什麼。變，難以避免，心，似乎靜不小來。眩目、高速和喧囂的周遭環境裡，恰恰是淨、慢、靜，更加讓人動容。「淨」如本期封面人物林孝紘。她正處青春年華，有

Michelangelo Buonarroti, the revered “Il Divino” (the Divine One), exemplifies slowness. The Metropolitan Museum of Art is temporarily exhibiting a large number of his drawings, including studies he drew prior to painting the Sistine Chapel ceiling, which would take him four years of painstaking effort to complete. For his entire life, Michelangelo pursued a more beautiful realm within his art. Revelations of divine miracles, his artwork has awakened faith and moved hearts around the world, one generation after the next.

一顆清澄的「少女心」。從台灣，到紐約，再到全球巡演，時光如錦繡般在她身上交織，她出落為一位青春洋溢，婷婷玉立的神韻舞蹈演員。「慢」如米開朗基羅，他曾用整整四年時間完成了西斯廷大教堂的壁畫。終其一生，米開朗基羅藉由藝術，追尋著生命更美好的境界。他在雕塑和壁畫裡，展現著神蹟，警醒並打動著世人，一代又一代。「靜」如身處曼哈頓中城幾十年的Jennifer Ouellette。她身處鬧市，卻內心恬淡。周遭環境一再變化，卻擋不住她對手工製帽的熱情。歲月流轉中，一路堅持傳統製帽工藝的她，活得輕鬆自然，更添風華。

The milliner Jennifer Ouellette epitomizes tranquility. Despite her clamorous, bustling New York City surroundings, her inner being is quiet and content, as timeless as

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本期《時尚精英》聚焦這些用時光雕琢藝術的人們。期許他們的故事能帶給您一份內心的寧靜。

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Address 229 W 28th Street, 6FL, New York, NY 10001 Phone 646-862-9930 Email editor@elite-magazine.com advertising@elite-magazine.com subscription@elite-magazine.com www.elite-magazine.com San Francisco Ke Bian 510-299-4392 ke.bian@elite-magazine.com Los Angeles Yan Lieser 818-836-2937 yan.lieser@elite-magazine.com Boston Timothy Pi 617-388-1688 timothy.pi@elite-magazine.com Seattle Echo Liu 425-877-5121 echo.liu@elite-magazine.com Ben Ruan 425-449-3620 ben.ruan@elite-magazine.com Dallas Amy Hu 214-682-7788 amy.hu@elite-magazine.com

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PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Chen Fu SENIOR DESIGNERS Ingrid Longauerova, Justin Morgan, Hsinyu Lo DESIGNERS Tan Zhao, Rachel Lu, Tz-si Chen SPECIAL PHOTOGRAPHERS Daniel Ulrich, Benjamin Chasteen, Xuehui Zhang CORRESPONDENTS Irene Luo, Pia-Maria Norris, Yi-Chun Lin, Crystal Shi, Qingyin Zhang, Xinyu Luo, Janet Ma, Ying Han TRANSLATOR Yi Ming COPY EDITORS Connie Phillips, Huixuan Yang FASHION EDITOR Many Ngom BEAUTY EDITOR Pia-Maria Norris PEOPLE EDITOR Janet Ma ARTS & CULTURE EDITOR Dana Cheng, Ph.D. BUSINESS EDITOR Hong Wang HOME EDITOR Fenzhi Zhang FOOD & DINING EDITOR Channaly Philipp

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ELITE FASHION

Editor’s Picks For Her By Many Ngom 1 5

Go Green with these beautiful, verdant essentials that will start your spring with peace and serenity. 春季來臨時，換上這些如春草般翠綠的單品，讓新春的著裝多一份恬靜之美。

1 DOUBLE-BREASTED WOOL TRENCH COAT, VALENTINO, $4,900, MATCHESFASHION.COM | 2 FINE CARVED TRIANGULAR GREEN JADEITE & 18K YELLOW GOLD & DIAMOND DROP EARRINGS, MASON-KAY JADE, $10,630, MASONKAY.COM 3 SATIN PUMPS, TOM FORD, $1,290, TOMFORD.COM | 4 CELESTIAL MELODY PIPA SILK SCARF, SHEN YUN SHOP, $150, SHOP.SHENYUN.COM | 5 TOURBILLONS VASE, LALIQUE, $6,500, LALIQUE.COM | 6 HAPPY SPORT MEDIUM AUTOMATIC JOAILLERIE WATCH, CHOPARD, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CHOPARD.COM

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Editor’s Picks For Him

An elegant combination of style and color, these items reflect a down-to-earth attitude. 穩重、成熟的男仕服飾往往具有永不過時的時尚品格。編輯嚴選的以下單品，無論在造型還是顏色上，都散發著從容淡定的紳士氣息。

1 LEATHER ABBOT BACKPACK FEATURING BALLY LOGO, BALLY, $1,590, BALLY.COM | 2 DRAGON PASSPORT HOLDER, SHANGHAI TANG, $189, SHANGHAITANG.COM | 3 L.U.C XP URUSHI YEAR OF THE DOG WATCH, CHOPARD, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CHOPARD.COM | 4 DRAGON JEWELRY BOX IN NATURAL EBONY, LALIQUE, $7,200, LALIQUE.COM 5 MEN’S CLASSIC CHAIN 18K GOLD & SILVER SMALL REVERSIBLE BRACELET, JOHN HARDY, $2,900, JOHNHARDY.COM 6 MERINO WOOL CARDIGAN WITH FROG BUTTONS, SHANGHAI TANG, $587, SHANGHAITANG.COM

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HOT NEW

BEAUTY ITEMS 護膚美妝新品 By Pia-Maria Norris

1. SULWHASOO CONCENTRATED GINSENG RENEWING CREAMY MASK (5 SHEETS) The world’s first cream-textured sheet mask! Infused with the anti-aging power of ginseng, this innovative mask helps provide intensive moisture and improve the skin’s firmness, radiance, and clarity. ($120 for 5 sheets, us.sulwhasoo.com) 蘊含珍貴人參精華，可提升肌膚水潤亮澤，煥活清透彈性，讓肌膚綻放緊緻透亮光采。面膜質感綿密柔滑，肌膚感覺水漾輕盈，敷用過程亦輕鬆舒適。

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2. CLÉ DE PEAU

3. GLO SKIN BEAUTY

THE FOUNDATION

DAILY POWER C+

A lightweight, rejuvenating, and radiance-boosting foundation that

An age-defying antioxidant serum that brightens, strengthens, and

blurs imperfections while also moisturizing and retexturizing the

repairs the skin through a powerful dose of Vitamin C and peptides.

skin, leaving it fabulously even-toned and luminous.

($130, gloskinbeauty.com)

($250, cledepeaubeaute.com)

富含維生素C 和Peptide的抗衰護膚精華，可以有效修護並提亮肌膚。

遮瑕效果良好的一款粉底，令肌膚色澤均勻、滋潤嫩滑。遮瑕的同時，可滋潤煥活肌膚，改善肌理並修復環境對肌膚的損傷，帶來豔光四射的光滑遮瑕效果。

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ROSY

WINTER LOOK 玫紅妝點亮冬季 By Pia-Maria Norris

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1. LANEIGE

TWO TONE LIPSTICK IN 3 PINK SALMON Unique, dual-color lipstick for a perfect, gradient lip shade. ($27, sephora.

com) 2. CLÉ DE PEAU

POWDER BLUSH DUO IN 103 PEACH TULIP Moisturizing powder blush for fresh, radiant cheeks. ($90

with case, cledepeaubeaute.com) 3. STILA

CONVERTIBLE COLOR IN PETUNIA Creamy, sheer lip and cheek tint for a natural glow.

($25, stilacosmetics.com) 4/5. CHANTECAILLE

CHEEK GELÉE IN SHADES HAPPY AND LIVELY Hydrating liquid gel-cream for

cheeks (and eyes). ($41, chantecaille.com) 6. DONORE BEAUTY

- LIP AND CHEEK POD IN PRETTY IN PINK Creamy, vegan lip and

cheek color. ($32, donorebeauty.com) 7. CHANTECAILLE - BRILLIANT GLOSS IN SHADES ENCHANT AND PIXIE Non-sticky, vegetable-based plumping lip gloss. ($36, chantecaille.com) 8. BURBERRY - FRESH GLOW HIGHLIGHTER IN 03 PINK PEARL Illuminating face powder in a sheer, pink pearly shade. ($68, us.burberry.com)

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REJUVENATING

SKIN BOOSTERS 養護佳品讓肌膚煥發光彩 By Pia-Maria Norris

LIPS 1. CLÉ DE PEAU - LIP SERUM Anti-aging, hydrating lip serum. ($95, cledepeaubeaute.com) 2. LANEIGE - LIP SLEEPING MASK

Moisturizing overnight lip mask. ($20, sephora.com) EYES 3. SULWHASOO

SNOWISE BRIGHTENING EYE SERUM Brightening

gel eye serum with a cooling massage applicator. ($72, us.sulwhasoo.com) 4. CLÉ DE PEAU

CONCENTRATED BRIGHTENING EYE

SERUM Moisturizing and brightening eye serum. ($125, cledepeaubeaute.com) NECK 5. AMORE PACIFIC - LINE REVOLUTION FIRMING NECK CREME Firming, anti-aging neck cream. ($185, us.amorepacific.com)

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6 8

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DRY SKIN 6. LANEIGE

WATER SLEEPING MASK Hydrating and calming overnight gel mask. ($25, sephora.com) TEXTURE

AND PORES 7. SKINCEUTICALS - RETINOL 1.0 Maximum-strengthening night cream with 1% pure retinol. ($76, skinceuticals.com)

8. SK INCEUTICA LS -R ETEXTURING ACTIVATOR Oil-free resurfacing and exfoliating serum. ($80, skinceuticals.com) 9. RÉVIVE - LE POLISH MICRO-RESURFACING TREATMENT Exfoliating and retexturing cream cleanser. ($125, reviveskincare.com) 10. RÉVIVE

- PORE CORRECTIF Pore-reducing and repairing serum. ($235, reviveskincare.com)

11. RÉVIVE

- GLYCOLIC RENEWAL

PEEL PROFESSIONAL SYSTEM Two-step glycolic acid peel system for safe at-home use. ($295, reviveskincare.com)

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Text & Style Editor: Many Ngom Makeup and Hair: Kevin Cheah Model: Sherry Q Photographer: Daniel Ulrich / OURSTUDIO

CAMELIA RUFFLE DRESS BY MARKARIAN

ELITE FASHION

LAVENDER TAKEOVER Designers are hinting that the famous pink will be replaced by another hue: Lavender is ta king over the runways this season. The elegant color fits practically everyone. To celebrate this look, opt for a feminine dress “à la Markarian.”

這一季很多設計師作品紛紛暗示——粉紅色將會被另一種顏色取代。那就是占領伸展臺的本季流行色——薰衣草紫！「薰衣草紫」天然具有治癒功能，讓人感覺舒適愉悅的同時，另有一種淡雅的浪漫氣息。

ALICE + OLIVIA, KYLIE LONG EASY SHAWL COLLAR JACKET, $485, ALICEANDOLIVIA.COM NINA RICCI, RUFFLE TRIM DRESS, $2,531, FARFETCH.COM AQUAZZURA, NATHALIE 105 SANDALS, $646, FARFETCH.COM HERMÈS, MULTIPLIS CLUTCH IN EVERCOLOR CALFSKIN, $3,575, HERMES.COM CHOPARD, IMPERIALE 36 MM TAHITIAN MOTHER-OF-PEARL AND DIAMOND WATCH, PRICE UPON REQUEST, CHOPARD.COM JOHN HARDY, MODERN CHAIN MAGIC CUT LONG DROP EARRINGS WITH PINK SHEEN SAPPHIRE, $1,995, JOHNHARDY.COM JOHN HARDY, LEGENDS NAGA MEDIUM FLEX CUFF, $1,195, JOHNHARDY.COM

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ASTER EMBROIDERED LONG DRESS WITH MATCHING PANT BY MARKARIAN

SAY IT WITH FLOWERS For this spring, florals take on a new look. This elegant dress by Markarian is sprigged with embroidered f lowers, giving it a three-dimensional feel. Pair it with accessories reminiscent of the blooming season.

「春神來了怎知道？」「梅花黃鶯報到！」如同我們熟悉的歌謠所唱，秀妍嬌媚的花蕊就是春季換新貌的最佳代言人。今春，花朵將會在時尚單品中以更飄逸與女性化的方式出現。

MARKARIAN, THERESE EMBROIDERED DRESS, $2,795, MARKARIAN-NYC.COM DELPOZO, EMBELLISHED MINI MOON CLUTCH, $1,800, MODAOPERANDI.COM DELPOZO, EMBELLISHED SANDALS, $1,100, MODAOPERANDI.COM TEMPLE ST-CLAIR, 18K VINE AMULET EARRINGS WITH ROCK CRYSTAL AND DIAMOND, $5,300, TEMPLESTCLAIR.COM TEMPLE ST-CLAIR, 18K ARCADIA RING WITH RUBY, $1,500, TEMPLESTCLAIR.COM TEMPLE ST-CLAIR, 18K ARCADIA BRACELET WITH RUBY, $6,950, TEMPLESTCLAIR.COM

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JACKET BY THEORY FRINGE DRESS BY ELIZABETH AND JAMES

FULL SWING The f r inge trend is get ting bolder, w ith f uller a nd long er f r i ng e s t a k i ng t he s t a ge . Up grade your LBD by adding some movement to it . A dec a dent c a sc a de of f r i nge ma ke s you r dress an ultimate item for any cocktail par ty.

本季，只消在裙擺衣緣裝飾流蘇，就能輕易打造 Boho 風。以往這種打扮多見於冬季派對，然而現在流蘇潮流已經悄悄攻占春夏飾品、衣著、珠寶，既時髦又貴氣。

KARL LAGERFELD, SUMMER TUXEDO BLAZER, $455, KARL.COM RAEY, LONG-FRINGE SLIP DRESS, $424, MATCHESFASHION.COM AKRIS, ANOUK ENVELOPE BAG, $2,690, AKRIS.CH TOM FORD, SATIN PUMPS, $1,290, TOMFORD.COM PHILLIP GAVRIEL, 14K GOLD 3 MM LARIAT X WOVEN DIAMOND NECKLACE, $1,950, PHILLIPGAVRIEL.COM JOHN HARDY, MODERN CHAIN 18K GOLD HINGED DIAMOND BANGLE, $7,500, JOHNHARDY.COM JOHN HARDY, MODERN CHAIN 18K GOLD SMALL HOOP DIAMOND EARRINGS, $3,000, JOHNHARDY.COM

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DRESS BY AKRIS | SHOULDER BAG BY AKRIS SUEDE PUMPS BY FRATELLI ROSSETTI

TREND LETTER Amid the logo frenzy, some brands, like Akris, have t a ken a qu iet er approa ch t o d isplay ing theirs on their collection. Spor t your favorite letter on a handbag or a jacket for a city vibe.

Logo 熱潮正式來臨！眾多品牌如 Akris，已經懂得如何將品牌標識神不知、鬼不覺的展示在他們新一季設計上。對時尚業者而言，Logo 與服飾的結合需要每季都有新鮮感，這簡直已成為時尚圈的基本常識。

AKRIS, RED KNIT DRESS, $2,390, AKRIS.CH DELPOZO, CAPE JACKET, $2,600, MODAOPERANDI.COM AKRIS, CHERVOCALF LEATHER HANDBAG, $2,190, AKRIS.CH HERMÈS, CALFSKIN SANDALS, $820, HERMES.COM HERMÈS, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME ROSE GOLD RING, $2,350, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME SILVER ROUND RING, $455, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME SILVER SQUARE RING, $455, HERMES.COM HERMÈS, EVER CHAINE D’ANCRE EARRINGS IN ROSE GOLD, $2,475, HERMES.COM HERMÈS, SWIFT CALFSKIN LEATHER BRACELETS, $470, HERMES.COM │25

JACKET BY THEORY | SEQUIN SKIRT BY ALICE + OLIVIA

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最近時尚圈已經被「閃亮亮」圈粉無數，各家品牌的伸展臺無不將亮片工藝展現得淋漓盡致。從白晝開始就以亮片裝打造明豔動人，無疑是 2018 春季的重要潮流之一！

ALICE + OLIVIA, SEBASTIAN SCRUNCH SLEEVES BLAZER, $395, ALICEANDOLIVIA.COM EMILIO PUCCI, PRINTED TANK, $830, FARFETCH.COM MARY KATRANTZOU, SILVER SIGMA SEQUIN MIDI SKIRT, $1,490, SAKSFIFTHAVENUE.COM AKRIS, TRI-COLOR METALLIC CHERVOCALF LEATHER BAG, $1,190, AKRIS.CH BRUNO MAGLI, SABRINA OPEN TOE SUEDE HEELS WITH VAMP DETAILING, $450, BRUNOMAGLI.COM JOHN HARDY, CLASSIC CHAIN STUD GRAY SAPPHIRE EARRINGS, $695, JOHNHARDY.COM HERMÈS, CHAINE D’ANCRE GAME CUFF IN SILVER, $5,400, HERMES.COM

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“Wild Horses’’ pocket watch, cloisonné enamel and hand engraving, 44.1 mm. Unique piece. (Patek Philippe)

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ELITE FASHION

INVENTING BEAUTY THE DEEPLY ROOTED TRADITION OF PATEK PHILIPPE

百達翡麗的堅持：傳統．創新．美感 English text by Milene Fernandez | Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin Photography by Patek Philippe and Benjamin Chasteen

istorical Patek Philippe timepieces date back to the company’s inception in 1839. Throughout its 178-year history, Patek Philippe has created some of the most complicated and exquisite timepieces for the world’s elite. Popularizing the perpetual calendar, split-second chronograph, and minute repeater in watches, it is considered by many experts and aficionados to be one of the most prestigious watch manufacturers.

百達翡麗（Patek Phillippe）的錶深具歷史感，自1839 年品牌成立於之時，經過178年的

鍊，陸續推出讓金

字塔頂端收藏家愛不釋手、接近爐火純青的作品，如萬年曆款5140P、黑色琺瑯面盤的追針計時5370P、夢幻逸品三問錶3939等。對於專家與收藏家而言，「百達翡麗」一詞代表了世界最頂尖的製錶工藝之一。創新與美感同具百達翡麗經典的三問錶即是三刻錶，不需電池或電力推動，有些會需要手動上發條，

INVENTION AND BEAUTY In 1839, the Polish pioneer in the field, Antoine Norbert de Patek (1812–187 7), joi ne d t he French watchmaker

針鎚便能在時、刻、分敲擊發出清脆的聲響，猶如錶內有心臟跳動，是相當複雜的工藝，一般需要專業製錶師十五年才能製出。

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Larry Pettinelli, the president of Patek Philippe U.S., at The Art of Watches Grand Exhibition. (Benjamin Chasteen)

and inventor Jean Adrien Philippe (1815–1894) to establish their company. Without pause, Patek Philippe has been excelling at safeguarding and fostering the tradition of horology—always planning ahead of time, always up to date. During the Great Depression, the Stern family, the original dial manufacturers for Patek Philippe, took over the company. Today, the Sterns constantly think about new designs and look for new ways and materials to make the watches even more accurate. “They feel this innovation is not going to stop until they make a watch that has perfect accuracy and doesn’t ever need to be serviced. That’s the ultimate goal,” Pettinelli said. “This is the way they continually push the envelope in watchmaking.” He paused. “And it has to be beautiful.” The movement (the inside) of the watches is masterfully crafted, and it’s the most expensive component of Patek Philippe watches, which is not necessarily so for other Swiss watch brands. As every part is manufactured in-house, from the ground up, Patek Philippe has the capacity to hand- nish every part of the movement to the highest degree. You cannot see it from the outside, but some parts of the movement are even engraved. The cases are equally beauti ed. Patek Philippe has the tenacity to preserve watchmaking craftsmanship, which has declined steadily since the 1800s with the increased interest in industrialization over artistry. In the golden age of Geneva’s craftsmanship, you could hire an enameler from among 300 or 400; today 30

there are only eight watch enamelers in Geneva. Patek Philippe’s honorary president, Philippe Stern, has emphasized that the company has always tried to preserve the artistic crafts of watchmaking, even during times when there was no demand for it. Stern said in a video on the company’s website that preserving this savoirfaire is a guarantee for the future of the company. PASSING ON A DEEPLY ROOTED TRADITION Patek Philippe watches are priced at a minimum of $12,135 (for the Ladies Twenty~4), with the average at around $45,000, and go up to the millions (for the very limited Grand Complications watches). It is known as the top brand among watch collectors. However, not just anybody can own a Patek Philippe special edition timepiece, even if they have all the money in the world. They have to demonstrate a deep understanding and appreciation for Patek Philippe. To qualify for a special edition, a potential buyer would have to have, at a minimum, a track record of collecting the brand over the years, Pettinelli implied. No matter how old or how rare the Patek Philippe timepiece, it can be repaired. The company keeps a detailed archive of every watch it has ever made, and if a part is damaged beyond repair, the watchmakers will recreate those parts. You have to think long-term with Patek Philippe; their watches get passed down through three or four generations. “That’s the beauty of them,” Pettinelli said. “We build them to last forever, as long as you maintain them. We will repair every watch we ever made.”

The front view (left) and back view (right) of the stunning Patek Philippe 20047M “Brooklyn Bridge by Night” Dome clock. It depicts different views of the lights and suspension grills of the Brooklyn Bridge at night – all in hand-painted grisaille enamel au blanc de Limoges, which uses black and blue enamel and white (blanc de Limoges) for a very enticing appeal. (Patek Philippe)

Philippe Stern

Larry Pettinelli

Philippe Stern 1839 de Patek (1812 Philippe (1815

Antoine Norbert 1877)

$12,135

Jean Adrien

Twenty~4

$45,000

1894)

20 Stern

Stern Pettinelli

Larry Pettinelli Stern

Pettinelli

32â&#x201D;&#x201A;

ELITE PEOPLE

曼哈頓頂級製帽師的技藝與商道

THE ART AND BUSINESS OF A MANHATTAN MILLINER

English Text by Isabelle Kellogg and Sharon Kilarski Chinese Text by Yi-Chun Lin Photography by Benjamin Chasteen

Jennifer Ouellette with a collection of her handmade hats at her studio in New York.

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illiner Jennifer Ouellette has managed to stitch together the best of old and new business practices—a challenging pursuit when practicing one of fashion’s oldest art forms. She’s combined a concern for the environment and the livelihood of her staff with painstaking, traditional craftsmanship. The results are hats that seem to transcend time. The only millinery currently producing in Manhattan’s garment district, Ouellette’s studio takes customers back to an era when society ladies never left home without a hat and a pair of gloves. The workshop, designed and decorated to resemble a retro boutique, holds surprises in every corner. A collection of carved wooden hat blocks (molds) is stacked all around, with some lining antique shelves of wrought iron. An enormous wooden sign from the early 1900s, carved with the word “Millinery,” hangs on one of the walls. Spools of ribbon and boxes overflowing with trims and headbands checker the room, and parked on a shelf near the entrance are a dozen vintage German sewing machines used for hat making. The setting fits perfectly with the work process, as the staff still uses manual couture sewing techniques that have been passed down for generations. Each hat

34│

手工製帽師 Jennifer Ouellette 的工作室位於曼哈頓中城。歲月更迭，她在繁華多變的紐約堅守著這片手工帽的綠洲。在這裡，她不僅要應對時尚行業的種種挑戰，亦要延續手工製帽的傳統，此外還要兼顧製帽團隊的工作環境與生活起居。一直以來，Jennifer Ouellette 都在嘗試傳統的精忠實藝與新穎的商管策略結合一體。在「手工製帽」這個傳統行業中，這是一個極具挑戰的目標。幾十年如一日的堅持，Jennifer 不僅擁有著穩定的鐵桿顧客，同時有諸多高級百貨的銷售通道。她旗下出品的手工帽不僅用料做工精良，且有一種永不過時的優雅品質，可以說件件堪稱傳家珍品。身為曼哈頓成衣區唯一的手工製帽工作室， Jennifer Ouellette 為上門拜訪的顧客提供獨一無二的懷舊氛圍，讓人感到穿越到了那些細緻而富麗的年代。柔韌滑順的草編帽、兔絨般輕暖的喀什米爾羊毛、錦緞製成的髮帶與各色配件，一圈圈的緞帶與盒子連同裁刀、髮帶漫溢在桌上，自成一格。低調靜置一旁的

Above: The Jennifer Ouellette studio is the only millinery currently producing in Manhattan’s garment district. It takes customers back to an era when society ladies never left home without a hat and a pair of gloves.

takes two to three hours to construct. Each is steamed by hand, then shaped over one of the myriad carved oak blocks. Folds and creases are made using a strong cord that is tied over the different shapes of each wood block and then removed before the hat is enhanced with trims and decorations. All of the decorative details are created in-house. In hopes of preserving the traditional, labor-intensive methods, Ouellette is planning to turn her workshop into a living museum for tours and lectures.

還有德國製造的古董裁縫機。製帽師的看家工具—— 各種造型與尺寸的製帽模型檯，更是隨處可見 ...... 工作室內的每一處角落都令人驚喜。琳琅滿目之餘，牆上懸掛一幀巨型木製橫幅，上面利落大方地寫道：製帽師。僅僅三字，足見一名職人對於自家手藝的自信與肯定。工作室裡的每一擺設，都是店內師傅運用代代相傳的縫製技術，完美製帽過程的縮影。每一頂帽子會需要兩至三小時的結構打樣，經過人工熨燙後，套進橡木製的模型檯上塑型。 Jennifer Ouellette 為了保存製帽技術與尖端人工的需求，正著手將工作室改造為可供參訪與導覽，「生

CLASSIC YET FRESH DESIGNS CATCH ON Despite the vintage appeal, Ouellette’s designs seem fresh and innovative, hearkening to an era of sophistication rather than following current fads and fashion trends. “Each of our hats is a timeless design and becomes part of our customer’s style and permanent wardrobe,” she said. Ouellette started her hat business in 1996 in New York and quickly found a following of hat lovers and hat-loving retailers and boutiques for her millinery sculptures, headbands, and half-hat fascinators. She branched into the bridal market a few years later.

氣蓬勃」的當代博物館。歷久彌新：經典款式與活潑設計並存雖然店裡的帽樣顯得老味道，但出自 Ouellette 的成品卻仍保有新鮮、獨創的設計感。因為工作室認為，與其追趕時尚潮流，不如聆聽昔時細緻工藝的教誨。 Jennifer Ouellette 甜笑表示：「從這裡出品的每一頂帽子，設計感永不凋零，它們會成為擁有者的日常部分，並且在衣物間裡占有一席之地！」 1996 年起，Ouellette 在紐約展開了製帽生意，並且快速地挖掘到一群帽子熱愛者與醉心於製帽的裁

Each of our hats is a timeless design and becomes part of our customer’s style and permanent wardrobe.” Jennifer Ouellette

Now she is a steady supplier of hats to Barneys, with the sweet spot for her hats at $300. They can go for as high as $1,000, and have been worn by celebrities including Katie Holmes, Debra Messing, and Reese Witherspoon. Nature and history inspire her designs. The tilted pagoda-shaped City Scape Headpiece was designed after 9/11 as a “tribute to the resilience of NYC.” Her mentor, British master milliner Stephen Jones, selected the piece to be included in an exhibit he curated, “Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones,” that showed in 2009 at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London, the Bard Graduate Center Gallery in New York, and the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, Massachusetts.

縫師，還有對她設計的帽型結構、髮帶、華美禮帽感興趣的精品店。因此，Ouellette 憑藉高超的製帽技藝，很快就打入了婚紗設計市場。目前，Ouellette 是精品百貨 Barneys 的穩定供貨商，旗下帽款價格從 300 至 1000 美金不等，著名演員凱蒂．荷姆斯、奧斯卡影后瑞絲．薇斯朋、女星黛博拉．梅辛都是該品牌的愛用代表。九一一事件之後，Ouellette 曾為此製作紀念款： Straw City Scape Headpiece，草編帽造型是傾斜的塔蓋，帽上飾有翳入天聽大樓、房屋與象徵寧靜紐約公園的綠樹，充滿作者對於紐約市的哀慟與憐惜。英國製帽傳奇 Stephen Jones 將其選入 2009 年特展：「Hats: An Anthology by Stephen Jones」，在倫敦、紐約、麻州展覽。

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COMFORTABLE BY DESIGN For 20 years—starting before it was fashionable to do so—Ouellette has been dedicated to creating a fair-trade brand. To accomplish this goal, all of her products had to be created in-house to guarantee the quality of the manufacturing techniques as well as the conditions for her workers. Ouellette sources the highest quality, sustainable materials, preferring natural fabrics and materials like felt and straw over synthetics. Trims and grosgrain ribbons are sourced from Switzerland. Meltingly soft rabbit hair felt from the Czech Republic is like ultra-thick cashmere. Whenever possible, the hats are hand- and machine-sewn instead of glued—hence the collection of specialty machines. Ouellette doesn’t use stiffener or chemicals for sizing, a common practice throughout the industry. “I prefer not to use chemicals on the hats. The result is that my hats are usually softer and feel more natural. They feel better when you put them on,” she said. Eight hat couturiers work in the Manhattan atelier; another 12 are based in the Dominican Republic. Years ago, while working with many Dominicans in the hat industry in New York, Ouellette had learned that the Dominican Republic was losing its apparel industry to Haiti and China. “I discovered this amazing available labor pool,” she said. “I seized the opportunity to create a sustainable business.” Ouellette believes U.S. businesses have been reluctant to branch out to places where labor laws are strictly enforced. Most fashion manufacturers consider minimum wage and required benefits too expensive in the Dominican Republic. But Ouellette saw it as an opportunity to build a fair-trade business. Her studio is centrally located in Santiago, “the heart of the country’s commerce, where the people are well-known for their craftsmanship and handiwork,” she said. Because the millinery business requires specific techniques and skilled handiwork, it requires “a steady and conscientious team.” In addition, her design methods are unique to the industry and “far from fast fashion.” Both are time-consuming to teach and to learn. It can sometimes take several seasons for new staff members to learn techniques, since the work differs depending on the time of year. “Training new workers is a mutual investment,” she said. 36│

頂級材質：捨不得換下的舒適感早在「公平交易」的思潮流行以前，Ouellette 已經力行二十年。為了完成目標，自 Ouellette 旗下出產的每一商品，都需要在工作室內完成，以確保品質無虞與工作夥伴的身心狀態。 Ouellette 選擇最高品質、耐用的材料，尤其鍾情天然纖維如毛氈、麻料，勝過合成纖維。滾邊、羅紋織帶來自瑞士；如兔絨般柔軟得幾乎化掉的頂級喀什米爾羊毛來自捷克共和國。此外，Ouellette 盡可能以手工或機器縫紉取代上膠，工作室也因此搜集了不少特殊用途的機器。固定帽子的形狀時，也不似一般工廠使用硬化劑或其他化學物質。Jennifer Ouellette 解釋：「我比較不傾向使用化學物品於帽子上。這麼做的結果就是店裡的帽子會相對地柔軟、觸感自然，當你戴上時更是如此。」寬厚管理：有捨才有得除了在曼哈頓的工作室擁有不少頂級製帽師，Jennifer Ouellette 另在多明尼加共和國擁有自己的製帽工作坊。多年以前，當 Jennifer Ouellette 在紐約與多明尼加的工廠合作時，她已經逐漸感到相對於海地與中國，多明尼加不再具有服裝產業的優勢。「但我發現那裡有著驚人的充沛勞動資源，於是我抓住這個機會製造了穩定發展的商機。」Jennifer Ouellette 感到美國企業一般不會想在勞工法律確實實施的地方進行投資，多數時尚流行產業認為在多明尼加設廠的最低薪資與獲利的成本太昂貴。但是 Jennifer Ouellette 反其道而行，視此正是發展公平交易的好機會。此外，Ouellette 還在聖地牙哥設立了工作室，她認為：「這裡是國家的商業重鎮，能在此發展的人都以其技藝與工藝品聞名。」由於手工製帽業需要特殊的技術與高超的手工，Ouellette 便需要穩定而縝密的團隊。再者， Ouellette 的設計方法有別於工廠製作與一般時尚潮流，需要相當時間培養與學習。假設工作內容不同，有的新進員工在一年之中還會需要花上幾季學習技術，「新員工的教育訓練是一項長期投資」，對她而言，員工已經是生活中密不可分的夥伴，他們值得擁有公平的薪水。 Ouellette 笑言：「如果不這麼做的話，我在半夜會睡不著！」不僅如此，Ouellette 認為：「對我而言，和工作同仁保持良好關係、愉悅的工作環境是非常重要的。至今，最後招募員工已經是三年前的事了，而我與第一批工作夥伴已經合作二十年！」此中商道，一如 Jennifer Ouellette 的官網上所寫：「我們的製帽哲學是以積極正向的心情與精神工作，那麼收獲便是為顧客與同仁帶來平衡與和諧的感受。」

ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

Working so closely with her staff, Ouellette considers her employees to be colleagues and pays them a fair salary. “I couldn’t sleep at night if I didn’t,” she said. “It’s important to me to create positivity within my coworkers and develop a pleasant work environment. The last group of new hires was three years ago, and I still have my first employee working with me after 20 years!” she said. As her website states, “Our philosophy is to work with a positive mind and spirit so that our work brings a sense of balance and harmony to our customers and staff.”

Clockwise: Georgina Sanchez, who has been working in the garment district for more than 40 years, uses a sewing machine that is over 100 years old at the Jennifer Ouellette studio. Antique wooden hat blocks, used to shape hats, line the shelves at the Jennifer Ouellette studio. Jennifer Ouellette puts hats on display at her studio in New York. Each hat from the Jennifer Ouellette studio is steamed by hand, then shaped over one of the myriad carved oak blocks. In general, it takes two to three hours to construct a hat.

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Hsiao-Hung Lin has transformed from a teenager into one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most highly acclaimed dancers by living in tune with traditional Chinese culture.

ELITE PEOPLE

COVER GIRL A YOUNG TAIWANESE GIRL TRANSFORMS INTO A GLOBAL STAR THROUGH PRESERVING AND PRACTICING A LOST CLASSICAL ART.

幸運的使命 ——訪神韻藝術團領舞演員林孝紘如果您看到過 2017年神韻藝術團的全球巡演宣傳海報，一定會對上面那位高高躍起的女舞蹈演員留下深刻的印象。她輕盈的身段，舒展的姿態精采呈現了中國古典舞那韻味獨特的恆久之美。

English text by David Lee | Chinese text by Cherry Chen | Produced by Echo Li Photography by Larry Dai and © Shen Yun Performing Arts

s the face of Shen Yun Performing Arts’ poster for the past two years, Hsiao-Hung Lin still seems unaware of her stardom. “That’s just a photo,” she says. “I’m not like that in daily life.” She laughs.

儘管已經連續兩年成為神韻藝術團宣傳海報上的主角，但林孝紘似乎並沒有感覺自己變成了大明星。「那是照片啊！我現實中可不是那樣子。」說完後，林孝紘爽朗地笑了起來，一個舞臺下真實的她就這樣呈現在我們面前了。舞中成長

LEAPS AND BOUNDS Born in Taiwan, the youngest child, with an older brother and two older sisters, Lin started to learn dance at the age of 11. “I remember I often quarreled with my sisters when I was young,” says Shen Yun’s leading lady. “It’s probably because we were too noisy; I was then sent to learn dance.” After learning some basic skills of ballet, Lin wanted to take the next leap in dance at age 14. “I had seen the performance of Shen Yun Performing Arts in Taiwan,” she says. “I wanted to be like them, but there was no place teaching professional classical Chinese dance in Taiwan. I knew Fei Tian Academy of the Arts in New York teaches it. So I gave it a try.”

生長在臺灣的林孝紘，從 11 歲開始學舞。「我是家中最小的一個孩子，上面還有一個大哥，一對雙胞胎姐姐。記得小時候在家跟姐姐們經常吵得厲害，可能因為在家裡太吵鬧了，就送我去學舞了吧！」說到這裡，林孝紘又呵呵地笑了。在學習了一些芭蕾等西方舞蹈的基本功後，14 歲時林孝紘萌生了去美國學跳舞的想法。「之前看過神韻藝術團在臺灣的演出，心裡蠻想跟她們一樣的。可是臺灣沒有專業教中國古典舞的地方，我知道紐約有飛天藝術學院可以學，就想去試一下。」順利通過了入學考試，林孝紘就這樣隻身踏上了前往遙遠異國他鄉求學的道路。我們問她那麼小去那麼遠的地方，是否曾感覺有些害怕或是傷心？她依舊樂呵呵地告訴我們：「沒有啊！當時家裡人多，覺得自己出來還

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After passing the academy entrance exam, Lin set off to study abroad by herself, and despite her young age, she wasn’t worried about being homesick. “There were a lot of people at home, so I felt pretty good to leave home at that time,” she says. “Maybe my response was somewhat slow. After staying in New York for three years, I seemed to suddenly realize that I was abroad all by myself.” Her optimism and carefree personality helped her adapt to the new environment more easily than other students. However, the arduous professional dance training and busy schedule of the world tour took her focus away from any difficulties, such as the language barrier and different eating habits. “Once you pursue a professional dancing career, it’s not something playful anymore,” she says. “Dancing is different from singing. If a person is talented in singing with a particularly good voice, they can sing well even if they don’t practice much. But it’s not the case for dance. Even if you are talented, you have to practice diligently. If you don’t practice, you simply can’t do the technique. You can’t do it well.” Lin’s physical strength was good for dance, she said, but she wasn’t flexible enough. She often regrets that she didn’t practice more when she was little. “If I stretched my legs more then, I wouldn’t need to work so hard later.” Now a veteran, Lin explains that she’s fortunate to be able to share her experiences with the junior dancers. “I’ve performed about 900 performances in the eight years since 2008 when I joined the world tour of Shen Yun Performing Arts—it’s even hard for me to believe sometimes,” she says. “I was the youngest child at home, so I didn’t know how to take care of myself. But now I’m not only independent, I also have to take care of others.”

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蠻好的。可能我反應也比較遲鈍吧！大概在紐約待了三年之後，我才似乎突然意識到，哦！我這是自己在國外了。」一方面樂觀大方的性格，讓林孝紘比其他孩子更容易適應了新環境；另一方面，艱苦的專業舞蹈訓練和繁忙的演出任務，也讓林孝紘來不及沉浸在語言不通、飲食不習慣等諸多煩惱之中。「什麼事情一旦變成專業的，那就不是玩兒了。舞蹈和唱歌不一樣，唱歌如果天賦好，嗓音特別好，不去練習那也是好的。但舞蹈不是，就算再有天賦也要勤練，不練就不會，就做不好。」林孝紘說，她的身體條件還是不錯的，只是柔韌性差一些，現在時常會後悔自己小時候沒多練習。「如果那時候把腿壓開了，後來可能就更省力一些。」聽了林孝紘的經驗之談，我們不禁問起，現在已經是「老演員」的她是否有將這些經驗傳授給「後輩們」。「有啊！回想起來，我從 2008 年底第一次參加神韻藝術團全球巡演，都八年了，演了差不多 900 場，有時自己都不敢相信。中間發生過許多事情，積累了很多經驗。我之前在家裡是最小的，不太會打理自己，現在不僅自立了，還要去照顧別人。」林孝紘說自己第一次從紐約回臺灣探親，走出機場時，她的父母簡直認不出她了，「整個人的樣子全變了，真的比之前成熟太多，那才只是離家一年呢！」從當初荳蔻年華的懵懂少女，到如今世界頂級舞蹈團體的領舞演員，林孝紘就這樣在舞蹈中不知不覺地成長起來了。真情演繹生長在臺灣的林孝紘從小接受的是傳統中國文化教育，這讓她在演繹中國古典舞時，更加能理解到其中那種獨特的韻味。「指導老師經常跟我們說，想像力對跳舞來說很重要。跳一支舞，你要自己去想想當時的場景，眼中看到一座大山和看到海洋的感覺是不一樣的，這種不一樣的心境會讓動作也不一樣。中國古典舞是由心而發的舞蹈，心怎麼動很重要。」林孝紘為我們例舉了她在 2012 年參加第五屆新唐人電視台「全世界中國舞舞蹈大賽」時表演的舞蹈《在水一方》。「那個舞蹈的編排取材自《詩經．蒹葭》『蒹葭蒼

Lin believes Shen Yunâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mission to preserve Chinaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 5,000-year-old culture is sacred and universal for all people around the world to enjoy.

When you dance, you have to imagine the scenes of the dance piece. The feeling of seeing a mountain is different from that of seeing the sea. Different feelings will make different movements. Classical Chinese dance is dancing from the heart, so what you feel is very important.â&#x20AC;? Hsiao-Hung Lin, Shen Yun principal dancer

After only one year away from home, when she first returned to Taiwan, her parents almost didn’t recognize her at the airport. “I looked completely different,” Lin says. “I was really much more mature than before.”

蒼，白露為霜，所謂伊人，在水一方。』我先去讀這首詩，知道裡面講的是什麼，然後再把自己置身其中，去想像水邊美麗的景色，呼吸清新的氣息，要用手中的扇子做出輕輕點過水面那種感覺。這些都要慢慢去揣摩，去找到自己的感覺。如果只是聽別人講，那就不是自己的，

SEA OF CHANGE Growing up in Taiwan, Lin was raised amidst traditional Chinese culture, so learning “bearing”—the unique element of classical Chinese dance where all expression initiates first from the spirit—came naturally to her. “Our teacher often told us that imagination is very important for dancing,” she says. “When you dance, you have to imagine the scenes of the dance piece. The feeling of seeing a mountain is different from that of seeing the sea. Different feelings will make different movements. Classical Chinese dance is dancing from the heart, so what you feel is very important.” Lin’s gold medal performance at the 2012 Junior International Classical Chinese Dance Competition called “By the Waterside” illustrates her sentiment. The piece is choreographed from “The Reeds” in Classic of Poetry:

跳不出那種真情實感。」最後，林孝紘獲得了那次大賽少年女子組的金獎。這次獲獎之後，2014 年再度參賽的林孝紘又榮獲了青年女子組的金獎。說到自己如此驕人的成績，林孝紘說感到頗有些意外，自己也不知道為何如此受到評委們的青睞。「獲獎之後感覺壓力還是很大的，覺得自己以後應該做的更好。我準備比賽的過程蠻自然的，就是練習，每天發現問題，就改正這個問題，這樣一點點地打磨這支舞。其實，跳舞都是這樣的，功夫要下在平時。最後，在臺上的表演就是很自然的呈現。」兩次的參賽經歷也讓林孝紘對中國古典舞有了一些更深刻的體會和理解。「要說提升，主要是在連貫性上吧！舞蹈最難的部分是動作與動作之間的銜接，對於中國古典舞來說更是尤其重要，我們常說：美在過程。那些固定的動作和組合都是差不多的，差別就在兩個動作間的過渡上。當一位演員在一個動作到另一個動作之間做出那種巧妙、頓挫的感覺，真的會感覺到裡面有豐富

The reeds are luxuriant, The white dew is turned to frost; The one in my heart, Is somewhere by the waterside.

的內涵。」在舞蹈技藝有了長足的提升之後，林孝紘在舞臺上有了更多的空間來感受和塑造人物的內心世界。「2015 年，我在神韻全球巡演中扮演了一個小女孩，那支舞的名字是《風雨中的蓮》。表現的是中國大陸法輪功修煉

“I read the poem first and then imagined myself in the scene: I was at the beautiful waterside, breathing the fresh air,” the star says. “I had to express the feelings of gently touching over the surface of water with the fan in my hand. I had to try hard to fathom and find the feelings. If I just listen to others’ interpretation, it’s not mine. Then I can’t express the authentic feelings in my dance.”

者遭受迫害的情節。女孩的父母因修煉法輪功被抓了，留下她一個人無依無靠。我是臺灣長大的，沒有親身經歷過那麼殘酷的迫害，我就去網上找很多照片和資料，去想像如果自己是一個孩子，失去了父母是怎樣一種心情，又會怎樣讓自己堅強起來。我還記得我在跳這支舞時，十場中有七、八場真的會在舞臺上落淚。可能臺下的觀眾看不到我的淚水，但我有時從臺上會看到他們在抹眼淚，我知道他們真的被打動了。」

Left: Lin says a key component of embodying her characters on stage is to use her imagination to transport herself—and the audience—to a magical place.

「有時，這真是一種考驗。因為不是演一場、十場，而是上百場。也就是說半年的時間，幾乎每天都要讓自己保持好的狀態。」

擔負使命回首這麼多年的舞蹈生涯，林孝紘說自己最深的感觸是覺得自己太幸運了，能來到「神韻」這麼好的一個團體。「我們的環境非常單純，大家都是為了一個共同的目標，復興正統的中國傳統文化。為了這個目標，老師們掏心掏肺地教我們，希望我們什麼都能學會，同學之間也很少有矛盾。我想這也讓我們能把全部精力都投身在舞蹈上，換作其他地方，可能處理人際關係就要耗費很多額外的精力。」那究竟又是什麼力量，能讓來自世界各地的藝術家們為了達成這個目標，而如此無私無我的辛苦付出呢？「我想這裡面也有中國傳統文化的因素吧！我學過許多中國古人的詩文，像是蘇軾、杜甫啊，你會發現他們當中許多人都曾因忠言直諫而被貶過，但他們在自己遭遇仕途的不順利時，寫出的東西依然是在擔心天下百姓啊，擔心皇上被奸臣迷惑啊，總之，從來沒有想到自己！我們既然要弘揚中國傳統文化，那我們自己首先要具備這些品質吧！」說起神韻藝術團的使命——復興中國五千年神傳文化，林孝紘的表情凝重了起來。「中國曾經是那麼好的國家，有那麼燦爛輝煌的文化，是禮儀之邦。可在中共的統治下，經過一次次像文革那樣的運動，把這些全都毀掉了。現在的中國人已經不知道自己祖先真實的樣子，世界上其他國家的人更不知道，這不是很可悲嗎？每當想到這裡，我就感到自己責任重大。」半年時間編排一套全新的節目，半年時間在世界各地上演超過一百場演出。自從加入「神韻」，林孝紘和神韻藝術團裏的其他成員每年都是這樣度過的。

Two years later, she won gold again, this time in the adult division of the same competition. But she was surprised when she was favored by the judges. “I still felt stressful after winning the prizes—I felt I had to do better in the future,” she says. “My preparation for the competition was a natural process. I just kept practicing, finding problems and correcting them every day, and honed my skill for the dance piece, step by step. Actually, that’s dance—you have to work hard all the time. At last, it’s just a natural presentation on the stage.” Not only did she bring home gold, the two competitions provided Lin with a deeper understanding of classical Chinese dance. “What I felt improved was mainly coherence,” she says. “The most difficult part for dance is the connections between different movements, and it’s especially important for classical Chinese dance. We often say: The beauty is in the process. Individual movements and combinations are similar. The difference lies in the connection of two movements. When dancers express the subtle feelings from one movement to another, you can really feel rich connotation inside it.” When all the internal and external components of dance work together, the experience is powerful, for Lin and the audience. During Shen Yun’s 2014 tour, she played a little girl in a program called “The Steadfast Lotus,” a story about the persecution of the meditation group Falun Dafa in China. “The girl was left alone because her parents were arrested for practicing Falun Dafa,” she says. “I was born in Taiwan and did not personally experience such brutal persecution, so I searched many photos and stories on the internet to help myself imagine if I were a child, how I would feel losing my parents and how I would make myself strong and sturdy again.”

Lin won gold medals in the junior and adult divisions of NTD Television’s International Classical Chinese Dance Competition.

Above and opposite: Lin plays the daughter of a Falun Dafa practitioner who gets persecuted for her spiritual beliefs.

「有時，這真是一種考驗。因為不是演一場、十場，而是上百場。也就是說半年的時間，幾乎每天都要讓自己保持好的狀態。我曾經真的有覺得很辛苦的時候，可是就在去年，我感覺自己似乎一下子看開了。怎麼說呢？做同樣一件事，關鍵是個過程，開心演是一百場，不開心也是這一百場，那還不如讓自己開心一點呢！我想我

Her research and training paid off, leaving a lasting impression on everyone watching. “I remember when I danced the piece, I shed tears for eight out of the 10 performances. The audience members might not be able to see my tears, but I could see them wiping their eyes from the stage. I knew they were really moved.”

做的是一件這麼有意義的事情，我其實是很幸運的，我也應該很開心的去做。」林孝紘告訴我們，神韻藝術團自成立十年以來，足跡幾乎已經踏遍全球。「包括美國一些小城市，我們都去演出過。當地居民可能一輩子都沒見過這麼多中國面孔，更不知道中國古典舞是什麼。」令林孝紘感到可惜的是，這麼精采和美好的演出，至今在中國大陸還從未上演過。中國的大多數民眾反倒沒有機會通過「神韻」來感受自己歷史文化的博大精深和美好輝煌。儘管有這樣的遺憾，但林孝紘認為，「神韻」的演出足以令世界上每一位炎黃子孫感到自豪。「我想『神韻』目前正在全世界為中國文化開闢一個全新的市場，是引領中國傳統文化回歸的先鋒。我回到臺灣時，會告訴我的親友們，『神韻』的演出面向的是全世界各個國家和族裔的觀眾，現場伴奏的樂隊都是中西合璧的，可以說是提取了全人類的藝術精華打造出的一臺演出，但烘托表現的是中國傳統文化。我們真的是獨一無二的。」

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A SINGLE INTENTION Looking back at her dance career of so many years, Lin feels deep gratitude for the opportunity to be a part of such a unique company as Shen Yun. “Our environment is very simple,” she says. “Everyone has just one common goal: reviving authentic traditional Chinese culture. With this aim, teachers teach us wholeheartedly. They hope we can learn everything. We have very few conflicts between classmates, so we can focus all our efforts on dance. In other places, people might waste a lot of energy dealing with interpersonal relationships.” It seems as though they aren’t just preserving a traditional art form, they’re practicing it too. “I’ve read many articles and poems from ancient Chinese people, such as Su Shi, Du Fu,” Lin says. “I found that many of them have been demoted because they gave

ORIGINALLY PUBLISHED IN TASTE OF LIFE

straightforward, truthful advice to the emperors. But when they suffered personally, they still just wrote about their worries for the common people and the emperor being cheated by treacherous court officials. In short, they never thought about themselves. Since we’re promoting traditional Chinese culture, we should first have these qualities ourselves.” A seriousness overcame Lin’s typical light demeanor as she discussed Shen Yun’s mission to revive 5,000 years of divinely inspired Chinese culture. “China had been such a good country with such a splendid culture,” she says. “It was a country of etiquettes. But all these were destroyed under the rule of the Chinese Communist Party through many movements such as the Great Cultural Revolution. The modern-day Chinese people don’t know what their own ancestors were like, and people in other countries know even less. Isn’t it sad? Whenever I think about it, I feel my responsibility is great.” Every year, Shen Yun produces a new program, planning and preparing for six months, then touring the second half of the year, for 100 performances. “Sometimes it’s really a test,” Lin says. “It’s not performing for one or 10 performances but about 100. I have felt

tremendous pain sometime. However, I seemed to let go of it all of a sudden last year. I thought the key point for doing one thing is the process. It’s always about 100 performances that I have to perform whether I’m happy or unhappy, so why don’t I make myself happy? I think what I do is such a meaningful job. I’m actually quite lucky.” Lin told us that Shen Yun has toured almost every part of the world since its inception 10 years ago. “We’ve even performed in some small cities in the U.S.,” she says. “The local people probably hadn’t seen so many Chinese people in their whole lives, nor know anything about classical Chinese dance.” Lin thinks that every Chinese person can be proud of Shen Yun. “I think Shen Yun is opening up a new market for Chinese culture around the whole world,” she says. “It’s a pioneer reviving traditional Chinese culture. When I go back to Taiwan, I always tell my relatives and friends that the target audience of Shen Yun is all countries and all ethnic groups around the world. The live orchestra blends both Eastern and Western instruments in a performance that extracts the essence of art from all of mankind, accentuating traditional Chinese culture. We are really one-of-a-kind.” │47

ELITE PEOPLE

“Il Sogno (The Dream),” circa 1533, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (Italian, Caprese 1475–1564 Rome). Drawing, black chalk, sheet: 15 5/16 inches by 10 15/16 inches. (London, Courtauld Gallery, Prince Gate Bequest)

神性的回聲

The Divine Creative Process of

Michelangelo

Tour de force drawings exhibition at The Met English text by Milene Fernandez | Chinese text by Janet Ma

ichelangelo consigned most of his drawings to the fire. Those were his rough sketches, his fleeting thoughts, perhaps. The few drawings that survived, his contemporaries described as “echoes of the divine.” These were highly prized, even during his lifetime, as they revealed the creative process of “Il Divino” (the Divine One). The Renaissance master, who uplifted the role of the artist, curated his legacy carefully—a legacy that continues to unfold. Michelangelo was publicly praised as “the Divine One” as early as the age of 31 in an epic poem, and then throughout his lifetime. The accolade remains as true as ever, reaffirmed today with the title of The Metropolitan Museum of Art’s unprecedented exhibition Michelangelo: Divine Draftsman and Designer. “The towering genius of Michelangelo can remind us that art is timeless and larger than ourselves. It nourishes the spirit. Art can provide solace in grief and instill a sense of hope in humanity,” curator Carmen Bambach said at the press preview on Nov. 6. At the end of her speech, she alluded to the exhibition as being “a spiritual experience.” To enter the world of this master, to be able to see and feel what Michelangelo communicates in his drawings, calls for concentration and contemplation. The Met’s exhibition provides a glorious opportunity to do so, requiring a degree of humility. It highlights Michelangelo’s “disegno”—meaning, literally, both drawing and design in Italian and, theoretically, the aesthetic/ethical pursuit cultivated during the Renaissance.

藉由藝術，米開朗基羅終其一生都追尋著生命更美好的境界。人們用很多詞句來形容他的作品：宏偉壯麗、沉著莊嚴、深刻雋永、震撼人心……當面對他的作品，人們總是不由地被打動。他的手和心，擁有展現神蹟的力量，如同與米開朗基羅同時代的人們對他的稱呼─ ─ Il Divino（the Divine One)。見證名作的誕生或許是因為這位藝術巨匠更鍾愛自己雕塑家的身分，他並沒有像其他文藝復興時期的大師那樣留下大量繪畫手稿。米開朗基羅將自己的大多數圖稿付諸火焰，也未曾留下關於創作的文字紀錄。僅存的少量手稿，在他生前便被人珍重寶藏，視為「神性的回聲（echoes of the divine)」。於是幸而，今天的人們得以穿透五百年的歲月流轉，窺見這位藝術巨擘的創作歷程，他豐盛的靈感，精確的描摹，以及難以抑制的激情表達。在大都會博物館展出的米開朗基羅手稿裡，你會看到他充滿情感的筆觸。它們似乎不是在畫，而是被刻進了圖畫的神的形象。在米開朗基羅筆下，即使沒有生命的物體也輪廓鮮明，湧動著不休止的動態力量。「它充滿原始的力量，就像是迸發的靈感在紙上匯聚為美。」大都會藝術博物館書畫部館長 Dr.Carmen Bambach 說，「在這些圖稿面前，我們能真實感受到藝術家創作的思緒。」無形化作有形，思維寓於具象。大都會博物館的這次展覽，給人們機會跟隨米開朗基羅的指引，見證名作的誕生。《利比亞女先知練習稿》展現人體之美為了完美呈現《創世紀》中利比亞女先知在座椅上回身呈放書卷的動態形象，米開朗基羅精確描繪了身體在壓

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As if to match Michelangelo’s herculean creative process, in eight years The Met has assembled the largest ever exhibition of the master’s drawings—a total of 128, including drawings in preparation for the colossal marble sculpture of David, the early planning of the Tomb of Pope Julius II, studies he drew for painting the Sistine Chapel ceiling, and an enormous cartoon (full-scale drawing) created in preparation for “The Crucifixion of Saint Peter” fresco in the Vatican Palace. To give a broader context, the exhibition also includes three of his marble sculptures, his earliest painting, his architectural model for a chapel vault, and his poetry and letters, as well as about 70 works by his teachers, pupils, collaborators, and the artists he influenced. Connecting threads in Michelangelo’s artistry can be found in a way that has not been possible before.

力下不同部位的型態變化，這從展品《利比亞女先知練習稿》中可以看出。當身體呈 S 型回轉，兩腳成為維持姿態的重要支點。畫家首先描摹了左腳大趾，它恰到好處地分擔著一部分身體重量，保持著姿態的平衡。然後是由於旋轉作用而彼此分開的大趾與其餘四趾。最後，是踝關節立起，肌肉緊繃的整個腳掌。女先知正在呈放書卷─ ─她是否剛剛記錄完一條為未來某事所做的預言？她智慧的額頭下低斂的雙目，是疲憊，深思，還是在為世人憂慮？今天，當你看到描繪在西斯廷禮拜堂天頂的《創世紀》，你會驚嘆這不朽的奇蹟。在超過 1,000 平方米巨大構圖的 50 個場景裡，人體幾乎是唯一的表現元素。大大小小 343 位人物，各有各的動態，俱富不同神情。或許每一位人物形象都經過了如利比亞女先知那樣細緻入微的創作過程，最終，米開朗基羅使情感溶於血肉軀體，於千變萬化之中，窮極人體之美。

Not even the best of artists has any conception that a single marble block does not contain within its excess, and that is only attained by the hand that obeys the intellect.” Michelangelo The rarely displayed works are on loan from about 50 top collections from 35 cities in Europe and in the United States. It would otherwise take 20 years for a scholar to gain access to all of these works, let alone be able to see them all in one place. Michelangelo’s boundless imagination, his force of character, and his virtue are displayed for all to see in this monumental exhibit until Feb. 12, 2018. It’s a generous run, considering the fragility of the drawings and utmost care needed to conserve them by limiting their exposure to light. The exhibition catalog will remain as a permanent record. It’s only when seeing these works in person, however, that one can fully appreciate Michelangelo’s “terribilità,” the awe-inspiring grandeur he was known for. One can get the tactile sense of how he carved into the paper, with hard-pressed contours. One can see the incredible way his works, these inanimate objects, evoke a sense of perpetual, dynamic movement. 50│

從繪畫喚醒生命的真念「對米開朗基羅來說，繪畫就是他的語言。」Bambach 館長說。有時，米開朗基羅會迅速畫下一些形象，線條簡單而神態誇張，像是畫家的自娛自樂。有時此一處，彼一處，相似形象多次重複，如同思維的對話。繪圖是米開朗基羅設計雕塑、建築和壁畫的第一步，思想落於紙上，便是生動的具象。當他描畫人體解剖結構時，稿紙上的交叉影線將與鑿刀下的大理石輪廓嚴密重合；當與助手交流時，他的畫變得嚴謹、具體，細節精確；而當對友人的真摯情誼想要訴諸筆端時，米開朗基羅也會拿起畫筆。展覽包含了三件米開朗基羅送給他的好友，年輕的貴族卡瓦列力的素描：《提提俄斯》（Tityus），《法厄同的墜落》（Fall of Phaeton）和《人生如夢》（Dream），作品精緻優美，完成度極高。《提提俄斯》和《法厄同的墜落》以希神話故事事為主題，分別描繪了在冥界接受懲罰的提提俄斯被巨鷹啄食肝臟的瞬間，和太陽神之子法厄同駕馭太陽馬車，得意忘形而失去控制，給人間帶來災禍，最後被宙斯擊落的故事。

“Portrait of Andrea Quaratesi,” 1532, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564). Drawing, black chalk; 16 3/16 inches by 11 1/2 inches. (The British Museum, London)

“Studies for the Libyan Sibyl,” circa 1510–1511, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564). Red chalk, with small accents of white chalk on the left shoulder of the figure, sheet: 11 3/8 inches by 8 7/16 inches. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, purchase, Joseph Pulitzer bequest. (The Metropolitan Museum of Art)

“In seeing the originals, we really get a sense of the artist’s hand, the artist thinking on the paper,” Bambach said. Up close, we can see Michelangelo’s uncontainable creative force, as if his hand could not keep up with his passion in making the invisible visible. “It’s almost like a feral sort of explosion of ideas and beautiful images on the paper.” Though much has been written and documented about Michelangelo, including the five biographies written during and shortly after his lifetime, this exhibit extends our understanding of him. It showcases Michelangelo’s training in the workshop of Domenico Ghirlandaio, and the perspiration that buttressed his genius. Framed in a biographical context, it touches on the conversations he had with antiquity; his rivalries with classical antiquity and with his contemporaries; his extremely calculated collaborations with other artists, such as with Venetian artist Sebastiano del Piombo (1485/86–1547); his poetry and letters; and his deep friendships and gifts exchanged, including those with the nobleman 52│

《人生如夢》則不僅重現了米開朗基羅對人體姿態變化的精妙把握，更具深刻寓意。畫面中央，一個青年倚靠在象徵地球的球體上，身下是裝滿戲劇面具的盒子──塵世中的你來我往，如同早已安排好的一場戲，幕起幕落，不過是換上不同的面具扮演不同的角色。環視四周，人眼所見皆為貪慾執著。此時，一位天使從天而降，以號角對準青年的「第三隻眼」，喚醒真念，提醒人生命真正的意義。米開朗基羅用自己的畫來警喻世人，信仰虔誠的他一生奉行高尚的準則。門生康迪維說，「在我和他那麼長久那麼親密的情誼中，我在他的口中只聽到最可尊敬的語言。」這位文藝復興時期的通才，即使偏愛鑿刀和畫筆，卻並未吝於文字，他同樣擁有詩人的桂冠。「當米開朗基羅說話的時候，詩歌是他最好的語言。」Bambach 館長說。打動人心的作品將永恆不朽在大都會博物館展出的全部 128 件作品中，包含了大量米開朗基羅與友人交換的詩作。它們如一顆顆珍珠，凝結著米開朗基羅對藝術的理解。

Tommaso dei Cavalieri (1509–1587), and the poet and noble widow Vittoria Colonna (1492–1547). MICHELANGELO’S LANGUAGE When Michelangelo drew for himself, he made very quick, intuitive, spontaneous sketches. When he communicated with other artists, assistants, or workers in the quarries, he produced detailed drawings, in a dry style of draftsmanship, where his hand is not as recognizable because these were about communicating information. His anatomical studies, magnificent in finish, show hatchings and cross hatchings that parallel the way he carved his sculptures, Bambach explained. “For Michelangelo, drawing is a language,” she said. The artist considered himself mainly a marble sculptor, but he was also a painter, an architect, and a poet. The initial foundation for whatever he created or wanted to communicate started with drawing. He rarely theorized about his creative process in writing. “This is a man that, when he speaks, he speaks best in poetry,” Bambach said, smiling.

Michelangelo painted the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The work took approximately four years to complete (1508–1512). (Public Domain)

在寫給友人 Giovanni da Pistoia 詩中，米開朗基羅曾圖文並茂的自嘲在天頂作畫的窘境，他是不願當畫家的畫家──即使在創作《創世紀》的時候，米開朗基羅也執意認為自己是被錯置的雕塑家。正如詩中所寫，完美無缺的《大衛》並非新生於鐵鎚鑿刻，而是原本蘊藏在大理石中的生命被還原而成。也許，去除雜質、顯露真實的雕塑過程更讓米開朗基羅看到了藝術的不朽。有一天，藝術家將停止雕刻的手，有一天，他將歸於塵土。而偉大的作品卻不會因歲月褪色，藝術的美，無論過去或將來，都擁有打動人心的力量。曾經，當《創世紀》終於創作完成，西斯廷禮拜堂重

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“Archers Shooting at a Herm,” 1530–1533 by Michelangelo Buonarroti (Italian, Caprese 1475–1564 Rome). Drawing, red chalk; 8 5/8 inches by 12 11/16 inches (21.9 x 32.3 cm); ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/©HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2017. www.royalcollection.org.uk

“Tityus (recto); Sketches for a Resurrection of Christ (verso),”circa 1530–1532, by Michelangelo Buonarroti (Italian, Caprese 1475– 1564 Rome). Drawing, black chalk, sheet: 7 1/2 inches by 13 inches (19 x 33 cm). Lent by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II (RCIN 12771), ROYAL COLLECTION TRUST/©HER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II 2017. www.royalcollection.org.uk

ARTICLE ORIGINALLY APPEARED IN THE EPOCH TIMES

One of his most famous sonnets, probably intended for Colonna, is most telling of his Neoplatonic artistic theory. The first stanza reads: “Not even the best of artists has any conception / that a single marble block does not contain / within its excess, and that is only attained / by the hand that obeys the intellect.” The connection between his heart, mind, and hand had to be integrated in the making of art, Bambach emphasized. Michelangelo valued disegno as a practice of fully concentrating and laboring to achieve a mystical union with God and thereby infusing it in his art. It is no wonder that his contemporaries venerated his work, calling it “an echo of the divine” and would commission work exclusively “by his hand” (“di sua mano”). In tandem, his handwriting was beautifully crafted and his poetry sublime. BEAUTY IN DEEP FRIENDSHIPS Some of the most delightful and rarely seen drawings exhibited include the gifts Michelangelo gave to his greatest friends, such as the four surviving drawings he gave to Tommaso de’Cavalieri (on loan from the Royal Collection of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II). The drawing titled “The Dream” depicts a flying angel playing a trumpet pointed directly between a young man’s eyes (the location of the third eye and the site of the imagination in Aristotelian-Galenic thought). The man sits on a box containing theatrical masks and leans back on a sphere, conveying the idea of the earthly world as a stage. The angel awakening the man from the “dream” perhaps reflects Michelangelo’s status as an artist awakened—through his love of beauty and deep belief in God. “There is something tremendously beautiful in observing these drawings that are the maximum perfection of Michelangelo’s disegno,” Bambach said. “They are essentially the jewels of his draftsmanship.” The poems he exchanged with Colonna and the drawing he gave her of the Pietà, on loan from the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, attest to the “amazing profundity, the depth of their belief in God and abnegation,” Bambach said. Michelangelo Buonarroti (1475–1564) lived nearly 89 years. His longevity was extraordinary for a person of his time. The Met’s exhibition of the divine draftsman and designer has extended Michelangelo’s immortality even further. It “may serve as a reminder that 500 years can melt away as we look at the drawings, sculptures, and paintings by this fiercely creative artist,” Bambach said.

Portrait of Michelangelo by Daniele da Volterra, The Collection Online, The Metropolitan Museum of Art. (Public Domain)

新開放之時，在蜂湧而至，歡騰讚嘆的人群中，拉斐爾感謝主讓他與米開朗基羅生於同一時代；當面對《最後的審判》中驚心動魄的場景，教皇保羅三世忍不住當場跪下，祈求天主在審判之日能對他寬容開恩。「米開朗基羅注定要創造出偉大美好的藝術作品」，與他同時代的，米開朗基羅傳記的作者瓦薩利這樣寫道。今天，當看到勇敢智慧，擁有完美人體之美的《大衛》時，你依然會相信這一點。米開朗基羅活了 89 歲。瓦薩利寫到，在他出生的時候，米開朗基羅的父親「在神的啟示下為他取名」，他將展現神性的光輝，他留下的藝術將成為人類的榮光 ─ ─在匯集了來自 35 座城市的 50 個收藏，被命名為「Michelangelo: Divine Draftsman and Designer」的紐約大都會博物館展覽中，你將聽到這神性的回聲，展覽截至 2018 年 2 月 12 日。

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Nestled in a lovely Alpine valley, a working farm harbors a surprise: the Michelinstarred La PrĂŠsef.

ELITE TRAVEL

從農場、牧原到餐桌：米其林餐廳La Preséf

From Farm and Field,

to the Table

English text and photography by Channaly Philipp | Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin

t the Michelin-starred restaurant La Preséf, the raw ingredients don’t have to travel far—just a few hundred feet from field to table. That’s because La Preséf is located on a working farm and agriturismo (a farm where visitors can stay) named La Fiorida, nestled in the Italian Alps. Although you’d never guess from its rustic charm, open skies, and mountain views, the estate is only one hour away from Milan. With an eye toward a “zero-kilometer” food philosophy, the agriturismo not only maintains a garden, greenhouses, and a little “forest of berries,” but also raises goats, cows, and pigs, with a strong emphasis on their well-being. Cheeses such as Valtellina Casera PDO and Bitto PDO, made in summer pastures from the grass-fed cows’ milk, are aged on the premises. Guests can stay here year-round, and whether they spend their time relaxing at the spa or via hiking trails, they work up a healthy appetite that is richly rewarded. In the morning, a resplendent buffet spread awaits: enticing cakes and homemade cheeses, all entirely too tempting and delicious not to indulge in. Evenings can be devoted to fine dining at La Présef, where chefs Gianni Tarabini and Franco Aliberti helm the kitchen 58│

米其林餐廳 La Preséf 有個特色：新鮮食材從離開產地到出現在餐桌上的時間並不需太久，它們距離餐廳不過百呎之遠。這是因為來自意大利阿爾卑斯山區的 La Preséf，本來就身處一座兼具民宿性質的農場 La Fiorida 之中。如果不親臨此地體驗鄉村魅力、蔚藍天空、宏偉山景，怎麼也想不到距離米蘭一個小時車程以外，竟有如此世外桃源。 La Fiorida 堅持「零哩」的食物哲學，因此農場不僅自備花園、溫室、莓果小森林，還飼養乳牛、山羊與豬，養殖過程強調牲畜的健康狀態。私房起司來自夏天草飼牛的牛乳，預先製作儲存，保持風味。訪客可以在 La Fiorida 經年久住，利用 Spa 放鬆或是健行步道鍛鍊體魄，此後脾胃漸開，便能大啖佳餚。晨間有繽紛的自助吧任君挑選：引人垂涎的糕點、自製起司，每一樣都讓人難以拒絕。晚餐時分，可移步至米其林餐廳 La Preséf，屆時 Gianni Tarabini 與 Franco Aliberti 兩位主廚將會為您端出充滿當地風味的饗宴。近期，在意大利主廚協會（ Identità Golose）於米蘭主辦的料理研討會上，兩位大廚獲封「味覺藝術師」

Spectacular views of the Italian Alps soothe the spirit, while on-site spa services pamper the body. Various massages are offered as well as aromatic baths—with Valtellina wine, milk, whey, cocoa, or even hay.

and work their magic to present flavors of the terroir. Just recently, they were honored as Artisans of Taste, or Artigiani del Gusto, at the food congress Identità Golose Milano. We caught up with them to chat about their philosophy and creative process. Elite: What is your cooking philosophy? Gianni Tarabini: I am a food artisan, loyal to my customers. I love transforming the raw ingredients produced just a few steps from my kitchen. The dairy and the slaughterhouse of La Fiorida are my pantry. The tradition and history of our territory constitute the strength of my cuisine. I would like to define my cuisine as emotional. Emotion is the main ingredient of my life, and it’s natural for me to share it as I think about and create our menu, which is inspired by the ethic of respect for the quality of the food. Franco Aliberti: My type of cuisine is a path, a journey into the territory, with a controlled explosion of the senses. Elite: With chef Gianni being from Valtellina in the north of Italy, and chef Franco from Pompeii, in the south, how does this dynamic play out in your creative process and working together? Mr. Tarabini and Mr. Aliberti: The exchange of ideas characterizes La Fiorida and La Preséf. Our encounter has brought into contact our two temperaments and two characters. They mirror our respective birth regions and, just like them, appear to be far from each other. But we already had an important root in common: the desire to give voice to the tradition and deep roots of the products in this territory. Telling their stories stimulates our curiosity as we read them and rewrite them, as much as for our guests when they listen to and taste them.

（Artisans of Taste, or Artigiani del Gusto）。因此， Elite 特別邀請兩位大廚與讀者朋友分享他們的料理哲學與創意啟思。 Elite：請問兩位的「烹飪之道」是什麼呢？ Mr. Tarabini：我是一名食物匠人，忠於顧客。我喜歡將廚房裡的生鮮食材以簡單步驟烹調。La Fiorida 的自家製乳坊與屠宰室就是我的食品餐具儲藏室。國家的風土民情與歷史奠基了我的料理力量；我想我的料理是情感的產物。情感是構成我人生的主要材料，因此與人分享這份情感，或者我會以尊重食材的心情構思菜單是很自然的事情。

Elite: What does the process of putting together a menu look like, given that so many of your ingredients come from the farm? Do all products come from the farm? Mr. Tarabini: Almost all the raw materials come from fields, from the garden, from the stable, from the dairy, or from La Fiorida’s agricultural factory. We use local suppliers characterized by the quality of their products, but above all by the same respect and love for the territory, the animals, and concern for food safety. Each dish is inspired by a "mountain" tangibility, sometimes irresistible in flavor, but always pure. For this reason, [most] consist of up to four

Mr. Aliberti：我的烹飪之道則是小心控制急欲探索外界的感官，漫遊這塊土地。 Elite：兩位主廚分別來自南北意，這種地理導致的生活差異給你們帶來什麼不一樣的烹調經驗與合作關係？ Mr. Tarabini ＆ Mr. Aliberti：其實分享不同的點子正是 La Fiorida 與 La Preséf 的特色。我們兩個在這裡服務，正可以將不同的天賦與人格特質匯合在一起，並且我們就像鏡子，確實的反映兩地的風貌。

A resplendent buffet awaits in the morning.

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Bitto is a local cheese, made only in summer, when cows graze the pasture.

Chefs Gianni Tarabini (L) and Franco Aliberti.

A staff member demonstrates how cheese is made.

Cheese at La Fiorida agriturismo in Mantello, Italy.

60â&#x201D;&#x201A;

products, so that the taste of each ingredient can be traced throughout its personality.

但我們都保有同樣的根源：想為傳統與風土食材的產地發聲。重新理解、講述它們的故事，會為我們與顧客在品嘗時，對這些食材帶來更多的好奇心。

Elite: Please tell us about the eggs you use—the Uovo di Selva (“egg from the forest”). Mr. Tarabini: We chose to use an unusual and truly natural egg in our dishes. The Uovo di Selva does not come from the chickens from our henhouse, but from the woods in the Orobie Alps. It reflects the characteristics and taste of the eggs I had as a child, just laid by my grandmother's chicken. The Uovo di Selva is an organic egg produced in Valtellina, in a chestnut wood at 600 meters [646 yards] above sea level, from hens [that roam freely] all day long in the woods, where they are offered a night shelter to protect them from predators and the cold of winter. Every day, the eggs are collected in the nests that the hens have built in the woods and delivered to us within 24 hours. Mr. Aliberti: It’s not only what is raised or cultivated that comes to our table. There are natural elements typical of the surroundings around La Fiorida. Our guests can find on their plates honed river stones and moss. [For a dessert,] we made a copy of the stones with a layer of striated chocolate, encompassing a creamy semifreddo heart, and the moss accompanying it was a cultivated edible special moss, crystallized with sugar.

Elite：既然食材多源於自家農場，那麼將這些材料化為菜單上的佳餚是如何的過程？所有原料都自農場嗎？ Mr. Tarabini：大部分生鮮材料來自牧原、花園、馬場，或是 La Fiorida 農場加工。我們使用當地品質良好的原料供應商，所有商家都得有愛護與尊重這片土地、動物與食品安全的心意。每道料理都有著「山」一般的彈性變化，儘管有時候味道不那麼吸引人，但食材絕對純淨。每道菜色大多包含了四種食材，客人能夠在品味的同時，也能從氣味中發掘食材的特性。 Elite：請談談 La Preséf 所使用的雞蛋——the Uovo di Selva（森之蛋）。 Mr. Tarabini：我們在餐點裡特別使用了一種很少見但相當天然的雞蛋。The Uovo di Selva 並非產自我們自家雞舍，而是來自貝爾加莫阿爾卑斯山脈（Orobie Alps）的森林。使用這種蛋是為了反映彼時品嘗祖母親餵的母雞產下新鮮雞蛋的回憶。 The Uovo di Selvag 是產自 Valtellina 的有機蛋，在海拔六百公尺的栗樹林裡，母雞自由的穿梭其中，是雞隻躲避獵食者與禦寒的庇護所。每天會有人從雞巢中取蛋，並在二十四小時內送到餐廳。 Mr. Aliberti：這些雞蛋並不是為了餐廳需要而培養，但它們代表了農場附近的自然風貌。同樣的，客人也可以在餐盤上發現河中的「卵石」與「苔蘚」。那其實是紋路巧克力外層與意大利特產、如奶油般的柔軟古

Elite: Please tell us about a couple of dishes that you offer at La Preséf that visitors should be sure to try. Mr. Aliberti: Two dishes always surprise those who taste them. These are two particularly charismatic creations that reveal the character of La Preséf, linked to the simplicity of the products, but also the experience of stories and emotions that chef Gianni Tarabini recalls most affectionately from his childhood. Mr. Tarabini: [One is] Gnocco [dumpling] with mountain potatoes, young Bitto cheese, whipped butter, misultin fish from Lario, and lemon rind. [The other is] “The Dream and the Emotion” ... the egg stolen from the chicken coop, Sacco potatoes, Bitto fondue, and the truffle from Costiera dei Cech, from which the palate recalls, with a mature touch, the innocent gesture of a child who steals the just-laid egg in the chicken coop from his grandmother's hen.

法冰糕內餡的仿真甜點，一旁的苔蘚是特別栽種的，原本即可食用，但我們輔以拉糖手法，讓它有酥脆如冰晶的口感。 Elite：請推薦來到 La Preséf 的饕客兩道非點不可的餐點。 Mr. Tarabini：有兩道菜是顧客每嘗必定感到驚豔的。在那其中有兩樣迷人的產物，體現了 La Preséf 的特質，一是與成品的「樸質」相關，同時也是 Gianni Tarabini 感性回想兒時記憶的情緒與故事經驗。 Mr. Aliberti：其中一道餃子 Gnocco，內含高山馬鈴薯、新鮮 Bitto 起司、奶油、產自 Lario 的乾鯡魚（misultin）、檸檬碎屑。另外一道是「夢與情感」，裡面有從雞舍「偷來」的雞蛋、Sacco 馬鈴薯、融化的 Bitto 起司、Costiera dei Cech 的松露。這道菜是一個成年人回憶當年一位天真男孩，從祖母養的母雞那兒，偷了幾枚剛產下、熱呼呼雞蛋的場景。

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Situated in northern Yunnan Province, Ao Yun vineyards are at the edge of the Himalayas and just below the sacred Meili Mountain that culminates at 22,110 feet.

Ao Yun means “flying above the clouds” or “roaming above the clouds.” The name refers to the thick, wandering clouds of the region and celebrates the birthplace of the legend of Shangri-La.

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Ao Yun A Luxury Red Wine from Above the Clouds 來自雲端的葡萄酒「敖雲」 English text by Crystal Shi | Chinese text by Mia Yeh | Photography by Ao Yun

igh above the clouds, tucked deep in the snow-capped Himalayan Mountains, lies the legendary paradise of Shangri-La. This utopia of purity, happiness, peace, and harmony on earth is the birthplace of Ao Yun, a luxury red wine from China backed by Moët Hennessy. Four years of searching across China for the perfect terroir for a fine red wine landed Moët Hennessy here, in northern Yunnan Province, at the foothills of the sacred Meili Mountain at the edge of the Himalayas—a four-hour drive away from the real city of Shangri-La, named after that paradise of lore. The name Ao Yun, which means “roaming above the clouds,” evokes the thick, wandering clouds that often cap the surrounding mountaintops. The winery’s first vintage, Ao Yun 2013, is a blend of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 percent Cabernet Franc that debuted at $300 a bottle. Only 24,000 bottles were released worldwide, with 4,000 available in the United States. The wine received high critical acclaim, garnering 93 points from Wine Advocate and praise from experts like Bloomberg’s Elin McCoy, who called it “certainly the best red from China I’ve yet sampled.” Ao Yun’s vineyards are spread across four villages, varying in altitude from 7,220 to 8,530 feet. Vines are planted organically in small blocks, interspersed with walnut trees and other local crops, and all viticulture processes, from weeding to thinning to harvest, are

深藏於喜馬拉雅山脈，在梅里雪山山麓之處，有一塊傳說中的淨土：被雄偉渾厚的山脈所環繞，被清潤的泉水所滋養，那就是人間仙境──香格里拉。在這純淨的雪域，雲霧繚繞的沃土下，孕育出了全球第一瓶的中國頂級葡萄酒「敖雲」。敖雲的葡萄園就建立在距離香格里拉不遠海拔約為 8,000 呎的高峰上。它位於雲南西部深山，接近喜馬拉雅山脈，毗鄰西藏地帶。由於葡萄園的高海拔位置，使敖雲的葡萄酒可以說是前無來者，其獨特性和稀缺性不言而喻。這瓶帶有東方神祕色彩的珍稀葡萄酒一問世，便以其高貴的身價 300 美金，在葡萄酒界一鳴驚人。英國葡萄酒大師傑西斯 • 羅賓遜（Jancis Robinson）曾如此評論它 :「很多葡萄酒都聲稱自己獨一無二，但敖雲的獨特是無庸置疑的。」第一批敖雲 2013 年份葡萄酒僅 24,000 瓶，在法國、美國、香港上市後一瓶難求，其中僅 4,000 瓶供美國臻享。是什麼原因使來自東方的敖雲，在西方葡萄酒界一舉成名呢？美國彭博社的記者 Elin McCoy 給出了答案；「這款 90% 的赤霞珠和 10% 的品麗珠葡萄酒成熟香醇，深沉濃烈，芬芳馥郁，還散發出淡的甘草香味，口感柔滑，理所當然地成為我嘗到最好的中國產紅葡萄酒。」敖雲的尊貴口感，與其特有的地理環境和作業方式息息相關。強烈的日照、乾燥的氣候、純淨的水源、清新的空氣和高海拔的土壤，讓敖雲酒莊成為孕育有機葡萄的絕佳環境。充沛無阻的炎熱陽光，將開花期由普遍的 120 天增至 160 天，葡萄得以茁壯成長，充分熟成。然而高峰野嶺的地勢成為了機械作業的困境——釀酒機

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Above: Ao Yun is made from grapes grown in 314 blocks on 68.8 acres of vineyards. Vines are planted organically in small blocks, and all vineyard processes are conducted meticulously by hand. Right: Ao Yun is an exceptional red wine made of 90 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 10 percent Cabernet Franc.

done meticulously by hand. High altitudes coupled with a drier climate and intense sunlight give the region great potential and a unique terroir, which in turn give the resulting wines unmatched character. “It’s a unique expression of Cabernet Sauvignon,” explains Olivier Gailly, prestige brand manager of the Estates and Wines division of Moët Hennessy USA. “You recognize a lot of flavors and aromas you might know from Bordeaux, from Napa Valley, from a more classic Cabernet, but there is a unique character to it which is difficult to describe until you experience it.” Ao Yun will be a featured vintner at the prestigious Naples Winter Wine Festival 2018, and will be auctioning a trip to its winery in the Himalayas. But for those unable to journey to the Himalayas themselves, a glass of Ao Yun provides a closer taste of that faraway mountain terroir. 64│

器無法進入，電力供應不穩定，「人工作業」成為敖雲酒莊的不二選擇。正是如此得天獨厚的地理環境，加上小面積的精心栽培，使得敖雲的風味令人驚歎。Olivier Gailly，敖雲在美國市場的品牌經理，這樣評價：「敖雲是對赤霞珠的獨特表達。品味敖雲，你似乎能品到波爾多，品到納帕谷，品到經典的赤霞珠，諸多似曾相識的的口味和香氣。然而，只有嘗到它的那一刻，你才能體驗到那難以言傳的獨特口味和醇香。」 2018 年，敖雲將會作為特色葡萄酒商，出席那不勒斯冬季葡萄酒節，屆時將會有一個激動人心的拍賣——喜馬拉雅敖雲酒莊特別體驗行。當然如果你不能去喜馬拉雅山，一杯敖雲，將會為你帶來那來自遠方的特有的高山味道。

ELITE

VIP

Tea Fit for 都市裡的水晶宮

Royalty

English text by Crystal Shi | Chinese text by Yi-Chun Lin | Photography by Baccarat Hotel New York

ake afternoon tea like Turkish royalty at Baccarat Hotel New York. A new Turkish-inspired tea menu offers guests a taste of the mighty Ottoman Empire, with royal brews and delectable bites full of bold Middle Eastern flavors. The menu is the newest addition to the hotel’s afternoon tea service, inspired by Baccarat Crystal’s royal customers around the world.

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挑高的大廳裡垂下的大型水晶燈、餐桌上皎潔的香檳杯，以及四方舉目清透的水晶簾幔，座落紐約 Midtown 的 Baccarat Hotel 無處不耀眼。 Baccarat 水晶起源於西元 1764 年，時值路易十五執政期間。在時間的淬礪之中，「Baccarat」成為法國首屈一指的水晶工藝品牌。Baccarat Hotel New York 則是這個百年品牌旗下第一間酒店，也是其在世界布局的標識作品。Baccarat Hotel New York 融

Baccarat Crystal boasts a legacy of over 200 years, dating back to the brand’s founding in 1764 by King Louis XV of France. Since then, it has grown to become a symbol of top craftsmanship and quality in French fine crystal-making, and has created masterpieces for royal households from Versailles to St. Petersburg. Baccarat Hotel New York, the brand’s first hotel and global flagship, offers a royal afternoon tea that honors its long legacy of serving kings and queens. Available Wednesday through Sunday from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m., the service pairs globally inspired bites with world-renowned teas, carefully curated to evoke ancient palaces in distant lands. Their newest tea menu, “A Turkish Tea at Dolmabahce Palace” ($300 for two), transports guests to the Ottoman Empire of yore. The menu is best paired with Dunes du Sahara, a refreshing blend of gunpowder organic green tea and mint from Camellia Sinensis, but guests can choose from an extensive selection of teas from Mariage Frères, Camellia Sinensis, and In Pursuit of Tea to accompany their bites. Champagne is also available, by the glass or the bottle, for an additional cost.

Left page: Sultan tea. Above: The Grand Salon at Baccarat Hotel New York.

合了古典法式美學與現代品味，透過酒店裡外別緻的氛圍，傳遞 Baccarat 水晶琢磨百年的輝煌燦爛。在綴滿 Baccarat 精緻水晶工藝品的 Grand Salon 裡，輕啜茶飲，下午茶三層架上的可口甜、鹹點，將滿足每一個饕客挑剔的味蕾。曾多次為世界各地皇室設計水晶飾品的 Baccarat，抱持著同樣的熱忱與專業，與世界知名茶葉品牌——Camellia Sinensis 聯手，設計出帶有昔時俄羅斯聖彼得堡、印度邦加羅爾宮廷氛圍的皇家茶點，在一個風光明媚的午後，與您一同神遊世界。 Baccarat 對自己的期許是，在白晝時分，能如虹光傾瀉，無數切面隨著光線折射出不同的光彩。當夜幕降臨時，香檳杯身閃耀著幽深細緻的輝光，或者新鮮嬌豔玫瑰般的紅寶石表面。每一分一秒都是美好。 Baccarat Hotel New York 至今在 TripAdviser 依然維持著五顆星的滿意記錄，水晶宮邸已隨時準備好為您提供最完美的住宿經驗與用餐品質。

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English text by Irene Luo Chinese text by Jessica Lin Photography by Michael Lassman, Murray Fredericks, and Jem Cresswell

ELITE HOME

綠意盎然的環保私宅

Living Screen House A Balance of Earth, Water, and Sun

nsconced within screens of greenery, this beautiful private retreat allows its residents to both relax in private and entertain guests with ease. Designed by CplusC Architectural Workshop, it sits in the beachside suburb of North Bondi in eastern Sydney, Australia.

眼前這棟適合小家庭入住的狹長型建築，閑居氛圍濃厚：明亮的採光、大量木質裝潢、彷彿會呼吸的水泥牆，還有位於兩倍挑高空間下的長型泳池，緊鄰著後方的烤肉區域，內觀猶如高級休閒度假會館。不僅如此，充滿綠意生機的巨型網幕，樹立在門前與房屋四周，具有隱私與強調私宅的意味，十足反映了屋主的理想：希望房屋能同時成為娛樂休憩及

PRIVATE COMFORT CplusC innovatively built tall screens bedecked with pockets of vibrant greenery to give residents privacy from the surrounding buildings, which almost all tower over the home itself. The screens veil the home’s interior from neighbors and nearby pedestrians, but also allow sunlight to flood inside. Upon entering through the large pivoting wooden door, visitors are greeted by an entryway embellished with various forms of plant life and a Corten pond, imbuing the space with a tranquil ambience. For extra privacy, the architects designed both the entryway and the sunny front courtyard to sit below street level.

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家人獨享的空間。不過，由於屋型限制與太陽能設施、自然光規劃等已占用不少空間，因此這的相當考驗設計師的功力。建築內部劃分為社交與家庭空間，樓下是廚房、客廳、餐廳，戶外空間則位於陽光充足處。橫亙於長形泳池與會客室間的透明壓克力板牆，將迷

Above left: Visitors to the home are greeted by a large pivoting wooden door and a below-ground entryway embellished with plant life and a Corten pond. Above right: The architects chose an asymmetrical balustrade for the stairway to transition between the industrial palette of the ground floor and the warmer timber upstairs.

Despite the homeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spacial limitations, double-height spaces and abundant natural light make the home feel wonderfully spacious.

A SUSTAINABLE DESIGN The architects emphasized environmental sustainability in their design, incorporating passive solar design and natural daylighting, environmentally friendly materials, rainwater storage, and solar power. The screens and custom planter beds of the home are fully plumbed, self-maintained, and LED-lit. CplusC’s material palette featured unfinished Kōbe Board, an environmentally friendly material uniting the best properties of wood and cement, as well as burnished concrete, expressed timber, and

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人的自然光引進內部挑高空間，讓室內、外揉合為溫暖的一體。託巨型綠色網幕之福，樓上每間寢室都能獨享一窗綠意。某種程度上而言，也像是擁有一座陡升的空中花園，將外界的窺視障蔽於花葉扶疏之中。家居設計上，裝潢材料尤見匠心獨運：牆面主要為水泥結合定向纖維板，具有環保訴求的 Kobe Board，拋光處理的水泥地板，並結合了加上令人印象深刻的木質樓梯與金屬欄杆，表現出融合工業風與金屬風的設計理念。此外，節能設施也是設計的重點訴求：一萬公升容量的儲雨槽以及屋頂上一萬瓦特發電量的太陽能面板。

steel columns complemented with industrial steel accents. They primarily chose raw materials that would require minimal energy to produce. DESIGNED FOR ENTERTAINMENT In planning the house, the architects split the design into private spaces above and social spaces below. On the lower level, the interconnected kitchen, living, dining, and outdoor spaces create an interactive, engaging space, perfect for accommodating large groups. The design optimizes natural sunlight, while emphasizing visual connections between spaces.

Left page: Beautiful above-ground pool blurs the boundaries between interior and exterior. Light reflects and refracts from the pool, enhancing its surroundings. Above: The oversized doors in the corner of the house can slide open to allow direct access to the rear. The solid timber sliding panel behind the built-in bench can similarly open for views of the outdoor vegetation.

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The media room, which connects to the pool area and front courtyard, is the perfect space for teenagers or children to enjoy themselves. Left page: Upstairs, each bedroom was designed to overlook a private outdoor green space—either vertical screen gardens or plantings in the lower yard level.

The star attraction of the home—a beautiful aboveground lap-pool—abuts the double-height social space, which opens to the outdoor barbecue area in the rear. This glistening blue oasis was inspired by the gorges and water paths that the architects had observed in nature. Floor-to-ceiling windows provide enchanting views of the pool. Since moving in, the residents have already hosted a variety of festivities, including a 21st birthday party, a family Christmas gathering, and several impromptu barbecues with friends. The widespread use of wood in the home creates an earthy, welcoming atmosphere, complemented by sunlight cascading in and verdant plant life interspersed throughout. The architects meticulously tailored the design to allow the residents to thoroughly enjoy themselves in the space and engage in their interests, from entertaining at home to surfing at nearby Bondi Beach.

房屋的其他設施規劃，則以方便屋主家人輕鬆從事心愛休閒活動為主，如運動器材間位於通往附近 Bondi 沙灘的庭園，下了班或放學後就能直接進屋帶上衝浪板，前往海上大展身手。交屋後半年內，屋主已經在自家住宅舉辦二十一歲生日派對、聖誕節家族聚會，還有幾次呼朋引伴，隨興的烤肉大餐。由於住屋位在雪梨郊區 —— 邦迪海灘北邊，街道兩旁多是兩層樓的獨棟住宅或是低矮的公寓社區，因此在規劃巨型網幕的高度與環繞區域，以及在網幕上搭載 LED 光照植栽時，既需要考慮配合街景，也得留意自宅的需求。為了增強臨近交通道路的住屋隱祕性，設計師選擇將入口牽引至低於路面處，並且將綠幕前後圍繞主體建築。 CplusC 熱衷於利用建案以前所遺留的材料或設備，不僅以此連繫原址的前後歷史，也能節省設計裝潢成本，具有永續利用的意義。如保留原本的停車場，以及在拆遷過程中遺留的木材和盆栽，都在裝潢與布置新居時派上用場。

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Clockwise from left page: In the master suite, a refreshing crossbreeze and streams of natural light flow into the room through the large sliding windows and louvers. The sunny courtyard is enclosed by green screens and sits below street level, allowing for additional privacy. With convenient and secure storage for sports equipment, it is perfect for grabbing a surfboard and heading to the beach after work or school without bringing a trail of sand indoors. Joinery with contrast edging creates a feature that frames the clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collected books and art. The offset double frame is a nice detail that helps to break up the large area.

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BRING

Spring

English Text by Erin Wang Chinese Text by Yi-Chun Lin

INDOORS

PHOTOS BY OYOY DESIGN, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM

巧思打造盎然春意

2 3

SPICE UP THE LIVING ROOM

1 DAY ARMCHAIR, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, DANISHDESIGNSTORE.COM 2 SMALL ANGEL AND PENGUIN DESIGN, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM 3 PIF PAF PUF HANGING STORAGE, OYOY DESIGN, DESIGNER-RUG.COM 4 BUMBLE CUSHIONS, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM 5 TIPPETOP CANDLEHOLDERS, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM

Update the living room for spring with fresh accessories, light-toned paint, and bold patterns. Patterned pillows with new accent colors can create a dominant hue and spice up a living room, while fresh design accessories in similar tones can shift the living room from winter blues to a more pleasant personality. If you have a brick fireplace, try updating its surroundings by modernizing with white paint.

在春天來臨前，改造客廳的祕訣在於設計新穎的小配件、亮色漆、醒目的圖案。幾何圖紋的亮色靠枕，能製造出讓人心情愉悅的氛圍，讓客廳頓時活潑醒目。相似色調的春季時尚配件也能消除冬日的清冷，打造出令人愉悅的家居格調。如果您有磚製火爐，可以刷白它，增加視覺上的現代感。

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PHOTOS BY MUUTO, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, OYOY DESIGN

ENTRYWAY UPDATES 2

1 TRIO VASES, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, LUMINAIRE.COM 2 VISU CHAIR WOOD BASE, MUUTO, DESIGNED BY MIKA TOLVANEN, YLIVING.COM 3 ARROW HANGER, DESIGN HOUSE STOCKHOLM, DANISHDESIGNSTORE.COM 4 STACKED STORAGE SYSTEM, MUUTO, DWR.COM 5 WOOD COATRACK DOTS, MUUTO, DWR.COM

Are you longing for spring? Fresh home decor can bring springtime cheer. First impressions start at the front door entryway. Any entryway, whether large or small, can be brightened up by just adding a new pop of color, like a pink chair or hanger. Try topping your entryway table or storage with a plant or flowers.

期待惠風曉暢的時節嗎？其實在家居裝潢上運用點小巧思也能帶來春意盎然。前門入口處是客人留下第一印象的關鍵。不論入口寬闊與否，只要放入些亮眼的顏色，如粉紅椅子或衣鉤，或是在玄關桌或櫥櫃放點盆栽或插花，也有煥然一新的效果。

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PHOTOS BY GUBI, FERM LIVING, NORMANN COPENHAGEN, WILKHAHN, OYOY DESIGN, CUCKOOLAND

2 3

DRESS UP YOUR WORKSPACE

1 OUTLINE BOOKEND - DUSTY BLUE, FERM LIVING, US.AMARA.COM 2 DAILY FICTION PLANNER, NOTEBOOKS, AND PEN, NORMANN COPENHAGEN, YOOX.COM 3 GRÄSHOPPA TABLE LAMP, GUBI, 2MODERN.COM 4 OCCO CHAIR IN BLUE, WILKHAHN, WILKHAHN.US 5 WHY-NOT CYLINDER IN DOT, OYOY DESIGN, BURKEDECOR.COM 6 WALL WONDER CLOCK, FERM LIVING, LOFTMODERN.COM

As 2018 begins, welcome the new year by giving your workspace a new look. The easiest way to do so is to add fresh-look accessories and decor, like bright-colored binders, a chic clock, or modish lamps. If you are ready for big changes, get a dazzling chair, a big green plant, and juicy-colored furniture.

2018年即將到來，重新布置工作空間，與它一同迎接新年吧！最簡單的方法就是以令人耳目一新的配件或裝飾點綴，如亮色資料夾、可愛的時鐘或是充滿時尚感的檯燈。如果你已準備好大肆改造，那就買一把令人驚豔的椅子、一棵大盆栽與果汁色彩的鮮豔家具。

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A view of the living room.

84â&#x201D;&#x201A;

ELITE HOME

曼哈頓戰前公寓妍麗轉身

A Colorful Pied-à-terre Manhattan Pre-War Apartment Renovation English Text by Crystal Shi | Chinese Text by Yi-Chun Lin Photography by Marcos Galvany and Jackson Hill

ibrant hues and refined luxury characterize this renovated pre-war apartment in Manhattan. The colorful pied-à-terre serves to showcase the client’s collection of Latin American art, reflecting her elegant lifestyle and Puerto Rican roots while providing a comfortable place to spend time with her grandchildren. As a native of Puerto Rico, the client wanted to bring the bright colors of the Caribbean to her Manhattan abode. Designers drew inspiration from the colors of a painting by Puerto Rican artist Rafael Ferrer, chosen for its special importance to the family, which hangs in the dining room.

Solis Betancourt & Sherrill 此次負責的案子是位於曼哈頓戰前的老舊公寓。要將這層老公寓翻新為優雅且舒適的空間，滿足屋主與兒孫共居的生活環境，同時在設計上符合屋主喜好的明亮色調，並展示屋主鮮豔的拉丁美洲藝術收藏，並非易事。相當考驗設計師的色彩運用，稍一失手，整體配色難免顯得低俗而滑稽。

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The vibrant color scheme begins in the entry hall. Its walls are painted with an intense blue, and then layered with a gilded wallcovering by Weitzner. The textural, net-like pattern of the covering allows the underlying color to peek through. Two paintings by Puerto Rican artist Olga Albizu adorn the space. The living room exudes the elegance of a traditional salon, but is enlivened by bright colors and contemporary art. A sculptural canvas from the 1970s by Cuba-born artist Zilia Sánchez crowns the fireplace, while a circular work by Linling Lu hangs over the sofa. In the dining room, the walls are enrobed in brilliant de Gournay silk damask, complemented by contrasting silk draperies and delicate sheers, for privacy. Four club chairs are arranged around a minimal ghost table, contributing a modern element to the room.

玄關前，鮮紅色的几案倚著淡金色格紋的牆面，同上方兩幅暖色的畫作，整體相當溫暖。但細瞧金色壁紙的格紋下，卻是隱約透出格子的鮮藍，冷暖色調互相平衡，令人玩味。老公寓的每一空間都能看出設計師相當擅長保持「畫面」的乾淨，比如主廳的紅色沙發及落地窗簾，搭配了淺綠色的餐桌，與淺棕綠的壁紙。主臥室則是大面積的淡藍窗簾、淺綠沙發、床頭，對比於床頭上方的赭紅裝飾。客房雖然整體為紅色調，但是摻了白、亮度降低，燈紅帳暖而不失沉穩，可見設計師的眼光不俗。來自波多黎各的屋主熱愛加勒比海的亮麗色彩，於是選用同鄉畫家 Rafael Ferrer 的畫作裝飾餐廳，畫中色澤飽和的特點成了設計師的靈感來源：壁紙選用印有淺色花紋的天青藍色。Solís Betancourt & Sherrill 細膩的配色手法，平衡了屋主濃彩重墨的藝術收藏，讓老公寓有「家」的久處氛圍，而不至成為嚴肅典重的博物館。

The master bedroom, with paneling to conceal storage and a serene palette accented with blues and greens.

86│

曼哈頓地產專家

吳梅 Mei Wu Stanton Licensed RE Salesperson

Mei 是位獨居風格的曼哈頓地產專家。成功的藝術生涯和多年對建築設計的喜愛，練就出她對品質和細節的完美追求，以及如何幫助客戶挑選最佳物業的獨到品鑑力。「值得信賴」和「豐富的專業知識」是 Mei 贏得客戶滿意的秘訣。出生自北京，Mei 如今已在曼哈頓上東城生活了二十多年。她擅長英語和普通話，精悉美國主流社會，對紐約地產擁有豐富經驗。在曼哈頓這個風雲變幻的城市，Mei 是幫助您尋找最具價值和成長潛力地產物業的最佳人選。

如果您有地產買、賣、租賃需求，歡迎來電諮詢。 Top photo: a view of the entry hall from the living room. Above: the guest room.

直線：646.320.8808 郵箱：mstanton@compass.com

The master bedroom features a serene palette accented with blues and greens, while the guest room is defined by a monochromatic color scheme. In the guest room, a folding screen articulated with pewter nail heads unifies the headboards of the two beds, lining the room with a luxurious perimeter. Two paintings by Puerto Rican artist Wilfredo Chiesa hang above this dado, and embroidered silk pillows on the beds add a feminine touch.

10 E 53rd St., 15th Fl, New York, NY 10022 微信：meiw8808

SOPHIA LEE SHARING TRADITIONAL KOREAN CUISINE WITH SINCERITY 靜水流深蘊真情 English text by Annie｜ Chinese text by Lilian Photography by Epoch Media Group and Shutterstock

n 1998, Sophia Lee immigrated to the United States. She missed her home country terribly. “What I couldn’t forget about was the cuisine. If I didn’t eat Korean food for one day, it felt like something was missing,” she said.

韓國的飲食和文化是一種非常緩慢而保守的傳承。我們在接受教育的時候，強調要緩慢、努力、精確，我們接受的是一種慢的文化；如果沒有那種靜的文化底蘊，也不會生出今天的活力。一種文化形成時，靜和動相融合，才能發揮協同效應，才能煥發出活力。 ——Sophia Lee

She realized that she wasn’t just missing the food itself, nor was she just feeling homesick. She was missing the sound of her family’s laughter, the memory of their smiling faces.

正如 missKOREA 女主人 Sophia Lee 所說—— 「韓國文化體現的是一種靜的力量」。以傳揚韓食文化為己任的 Sophia 端秀從容，舉手投足間體現出的正是那種

ADVERTORIAL

韓國傳統優雅嫻靜之中湧現的活力和睿智。就是這樣一位美麗而文靜的女子，在過去十年間一 (Left) Sophia Lee 李善慧; (right top) Refreshing Gujeolpan 清爽養生的九折板

人擁有多家人氣爆滿的餐廳，在曼哈頓繁華似錦的韓國街締造著一段創業圓夢的今日傳奇。

Her mother and grandmother showed her what it meant to put love into cooking. When Lee was young, they would tell her, if you eat this dish, you will grow taller and prettier; if you eat that dish, you’ll become smart and get good grades; this dish will help you recover from your sickness. “They would show their love to me through each dish, and to this day, I can’t forget the taste.” This warmth and love became her dream: to deliver this longing, nostalgia, and affection to her restaurant customers through the dishes they’ll experience. To let good food and nourishment chase away their troubles. With this mission in mind, Lee, who was a teacher in Korea for two decades, threw herself into learning about the new world of the hospitality industry. When she was ready to open her restaurant, Lee struggled to come up with a name. One time, while she was tidying up her house, she came across some letters that she and a friend had sent to each other when they were young children. The words “I miss you” stood out to her, a reminder of how much she longed for her childhood days and her time in Korea. Thus, she decided to name her restaurant missKOREA. “Eating and drinking is so much more than just that—it is a culture. Through enjoying food and drink with people you care about, you feel delight and calm in your heart,” Lee said. “I want to show my customers that taste that is so unforgettable to me—and give my guests good health, comfort, and happiness. What makes missKOREA’s dishes stand out is theirclean, healthy preparation—unlike many restaurants that layer on the sodium and sugar. The much more restrained flavor profile is out of consideration to diners’ health, but in truth, it also makes it easier to appreciate the wide range of flavors in the dishes. Lee also believes deeply in the idea of karmic ties that bind her and her staff. Every month, she hosts a staff get-together, sharing in their joy, difficulties, and challenges. It is one big family at missKOREA. With missKOREA’s diners too, it is a special fate that has brought them to the restaurant, to experience the food of Lee’s culture that has become her source of comfort. 34│

思鄉情寄寓「憶韓國」「1998年移民到美國後，我自己都不明白為什麼會那麼想念韓國。」Sophia（李善慧女士）笑著說：「其中最難以忘懷的就是韓國料理，如果一天不吃韓國菜，就覺得少了點什麼。」她仔細追憶，發現自己對韓食的思念中，難忘的不僅是鄉情，更是親人的音容笑貌。手藝高超的外婆和媽媽，把對她的愛藏在了一道道精心烹製的菜餚裡。吃飯的時候，外婆和母親經常跟年幼的善慧說，吃了這樣的料理，個子會長高，會變漂亮；吃了這樣的料理，會考出好成績；吃了這樣的料理，病就會好……，「做這些料理的時候，她們流露出的情感讓我至今難忘。」就是這樣的一份情，讓李善慧確定了自己的夢想：把自己對鄉情和親情的眷戀以食物為媒介，傳遞給客人，讓美食來驅趕疲憊、療癒思念。於是，在韓國執教了二十年的 Sophia，在紐約毅然投身從未涉足過的餐飲行業。餐廳開張前一直沒有合適的名字，一次她在收拾舊物時，看到了兒時與朋友來往的信件，上面寫著「I miss you」，簡單的幾個字又勾起了 Sophia 對韓國和童年時光的思念，於是決定將餐廳名字定為 missKOREA—— 「憶韓國」。分享的幸福非常巨大能夠通過美食分享韓國文化和濃濃鄉情，Sophia臉上浮起滿足笑意、心懷感恩：「我覺得飲食是一種文化。現在不是農耕時代了，通過進餐，我們可以完成的事情有很多。從中得到的樂趣和內心的平和是無窮的。」「分享時，我們內心喜悅幸福。我想通過料理，來傳遞我的情感和記憶中難以忘懷的味道，給食客帶來健康、安慰和幸福。」「那麼如何將分享的理念蘊藏在食物之中呢？又怎樣將這些蘊藏其中的含義傳遞給來到 missKOREA 的客人呢？」Sophia 以與眾不同的視野和角度在思考…… 人才可遇不可求。慧黠毓敏的 Sophia 以「信」、「緣」二字將餐飲業的一流人才招募於麾下。每月舉辦一次員工聚會，與員工無私分享快樂和喜悅，為他們分擔憂愁排解困難，她寬容大度，恩威並重，潤物細無聲中將餐廳打理得井井有條，以真心凝聚起了 missKOREA 這個大家庭。為了傳遞這分享的理念和信息，Sophia 結合多年實踐中對傳統韓食文化起源和變化的思考，又以自己獨特的視角，結合大紐約都市食客的需求，創意配製出健康美味的道道料理，不斷適時推出療愈身心的美味新菜品。

真正原汁原味的韓國宮廷料理

韓國頂級御廚李善圭親自主理

體驗朝鮮王朝的寫意生活

(Top) Barbecue Sets Perfect for Celebration 表達祝福的烤肉套餐; (bottom) Mouth-Watering Sinseollo 誘人食慾的神仙爐

OPEN 24 HOURS Address 10 W. 32nd St., New York, NY 10001 Phone 212-594-4963 web www.misskoreaBBQ.com

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美國稅改草案通關，影響為何？

1. 企業所得稅開始降低了嗎？

s-corporation 或是非股

2017年12月2日週六早晨，美國國會參議院（US Senate）

份有限公司的小型企業，

在他們的稅改草案終局版本出爐後，不到幾個小時，

其最高稅率在眾院的版本

便表決通過該草案。由於美國聯邦立法單位——國會

是25%，在參議院則是有

（Congress）區分兩個院：參議院（Senate）和眾議院

23%的所得抵扣，但是剩

（House of Representatives），兩個院通過的版本經常

餘部分要繳個人所得稅。

是彼此不同的，因此兩院必須談判妥協到有一個雙方都

從個人所得稅的角

能接受的共同版本，新的法律才會真的誕生。目前草案

度來看，參院版本保留現

還沒開始最終這個立法階段。

行的 7 個稅率級別，眾

也因此在筆者截稿時（2017 年 12 月 3 日），草案中要降低的企業所得稅不會現在就開始降低。

院版本則是將之簡化成 4 個；參院版本降低最高稅率到 38.5%，但個人所得

2. 聯邦遺產稅可望減少，但還沒廢除！

稅減低的政策僅有效至

本來美國總統川普（Donald Trump）和共和黨（The

2025 年，而眾院版本則

Republican Party）主導的國會要全面廢黜聯邦遺產稅

是維持現行的 39.6%。此外，參院在終局版本中臨時保

（Federal estate tax），但兩院的版本目前都折衷，將

留了另類最低稅賦（Alternative Minimum Tax），分析

個人遺產稅免稅額提高到1,100萬美元（2017年免稅額是 549萬），眾議院版本為聯邦遺產稅制度設一個日落條款，在2024年全面廢除遺產稅。

認為眾院不會樂見保留這個稅賦。參議院版本要廢除歐巴馬總統時期通過的平價健保法中強制個人投保的規定，沒有投保的個人不再被罰款，而眾議院則維持這個強制規定。

3. 參院終局版本的輸家和贏家為何？

眾議院版本不再讓民眾可以抵扣醫療費用、報稅費

一般分析認為，共和黨主導的美國國會稅改方案的最大

用和個人災害損失，且慈善捐款抵扣優惠受限，參議院

輸家是反對赤字（deficit）增加的人士，支持這個立場

版本則起碼保留了醫療費用和報稅費用抵扣所得的優惠。

的參議員最終沒能在參院版本中成功增添防止赤字和國債飆升的機制。

5. 火速表決的爭議

而參院的稅改草案本來要全面終止州稅（state

美國國會是一個代議制機構，國會參議員代表美國各州

taxes）和地方稅（local taxes）抵扣聯邦所得的重大

的利益，眾議員代表民眾個人的利益，因此針對對民眾

優惠，對州稅和地方稅率高的民眾極為不利，這些州包

影響重大的立法草案，政府單位和各國會議員通常會在

含紐約（New York）、加州（California）和新澤西州

他們代表的選區舉辦公聽會（public hearings）來說明

（New Jersey）後來在某些參議員的努力下，將其中地稅

草案和徵詢民眾的意見，好確認立法真確反映民意。但

（property tax）這個稅種的抵扣優惠勉強保留一部分

是這次稅改，參眾兩院都是火速表決，沒有時間經過公

（最高抵扣 1 萬美金）。參院終局版本也讓 529 教育儲蓄

聽會等途徑得到充分審視，因此只能等到兩院談判最終

的計畫優惠，可以包含幼教到大學的公私立學校學費和

共同版本的過程中，看看是否會舉辦公聽會了。

居家自學的花費。

4. 參、眾議院的版本主要差異為何？兩院都要降低股份有限公司（corporations）的所得稅，從35%降低到20%，但是如果這個股份有限公司是

92│

筆者王劭文出生於台灣台北，台灣大學法律學院及哥倫比亞大學法學院畢業，並獲領紐約大學華格納公共服務研究所最高等獎學金，主攻美國醫保政策。領有紐約州律師執照，從事耆老保健及資產規劃服務，聯絡請洽718-844-8560或 kneal@nealgrouplaw. com。

股票投資注意事項（七）：盡量避免今後十五年內可能破產的大公司

Yulin (Peggy) Peng

文w宋仁

我們多數華人相信大公司的股票比較保險，可以長期放在裡面，比如代表大公司的指數 S&P 500 多年來就有不錯的表現，但是如果投資個股的時候，就不是每個大公司都是比較安全的了，有一些是非常危

Corcoran地產集團經紀師直撥：+1 917-755-3628 微信：peggypeng003 地址：888 7th Ave, New York, NY

險的！因為美國平均每隔七到八年就有一次經濟衰退，在這期間很多大公司就得住院治療，甚至病危，所以一直以來經營不善的企業，在十五年的兩次衰退中可能就挺不過去，像上次（08 年）的美國經濟大衰退時，通用汽車和克萊斯勒公司就進了太平間。就像一個人平時自我感覺都很良好一樣，公司的高管們大多也認為屬於社會精英，聰明的很，看不到公司致命的弱點和可怕的未來，這樣的大公司在美國也不是個例。就拿福特汽車公司舉例：最近又換了個總裁，但換湯不換藥，企業病重的癥結根本就看不到。福特公司的經營策略都不對：經濟好時掙的錢不趕緊用來解決問題，而是大發紅利，以至於問題積累太多，將來可能會成癌症；淨資產只有三百億美元的福特，光設備的投資就六百多億，一切資本運

Peggy是紐約高端地產投資諮詢顧問和經紀人。在剛剛過去的 6月份，Peggy 榮獲紐約頂尖地產經紀公司柯克蘭集團的銷售前 25 獎項，排名第十位。她近期的交易包括曼哈頓連排別墅、曼哈頓及周邊各區新開發投資公寓和長島新建豪華別墅。

Peggy 擅長幫助客戶購買已上市和未上市（offmarket）的住宅/商業類投資物業。作為一位十分全

作全靠將近一千五百億美元的長短期債務，一旦經濟危機時，大量汽

面的地產經紀，她對紐約地產動向以及各區十分熟

車賣不出去，很容易死在資金鏈上。

悉。Peggy 持有商業房地產投資執照（CIREC）並擁

而福特經營策略的失敗，一定會導致今後美國經濟再危機時公司

有大量off-market 商業地產資源，適合各類尋求高

將面臨巨大困境：一個學生初中數學都讀不懂就和高中的高材生搞數

回報率的投資客。Peggy具有廣泛的人脈，她和最資

學競賽，結果可想而知。福特汽車質量在美國民眾中本來就屬於中等

深的國際貸款專家、紐約頂尖地產律師有良好合作關

偏下，還非要搞豪華品牌「Lincoln」，占用了大量的人力和資金，虧

係，可幫助客戶應對交易過程中的各類問題。Peggy

了大錢還被人笑話。福特在國外的名聲就更差了，但高管們夜郎自大，

同時也和紐約一流的建築師、施工團隊合作，可為客

在全球到處建廠，到時候全是公司的累贅，得賠錢甩包袱。

戶提供購買物業後的高端定制服務，如聯排別墅的物

精英策略的致命傷之外，工人的素質更是差強人意：原來當了長時間的工會老大，好吃懶做慣了，現在就應該趁著公司掙錢，加強培訓，提高產品質量，可公司把大部分盈利都發了紅利，好像對股民一心一意，其實自己在家裡埋下了定時炸彈。福特早就應該賣掉「Lincoln」品牌；賣掉北美以外的工廠；停止發放紅利，把盈利用來還債和培訓員工，在美國國內集中精力把汽車質量的排名打進前三名，現在可能有一點太晚了，看新的總裁的規劃好像也不上道。下一個經濟衰退很快就會露出苗頭，到時候福特公司就慘了：大量工廠產能過剩，需要解僱工人，削減賬面上的資產，虧損拋售汽車，斷臂賣掉海外工廠，公司債務評級重新變為「垃圾」，高利息舉債，股票大跌…… 福特公司也許能逃得過這次經濟衰退，股票不至於回到九毛九，也難說。但是如果不作大手術，下一次幾乎肯定是逃不過去了。所以這種公司的股票最好不碰，喜歡紅利的朋友可以買利息比它還高的債券（Bond）。要點是：這類大公司在美國不止這一家。（注：本文僅代表記者個人觀點，不代表本刊立場。）

業管理、整修、翻新和重建。她的公司 Corcoran 集團在曼哈頓高端地產中居王者領先交易地位，每年交易額占曼哈頓地產市場一半以上。公司旗下代理包括

15 號哈德遜、35 號哈德遜、53W53、中央 57th St在內近40座曼哈頓頂級高端新樓盤（New Development）。 Peggy 也是紐約地產協會會員和紐約亞洲

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地產協會會員。

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