November 2018 Vol. 39 Calgary
Calgary NOVEMBER 2018
A sing tao puBlicAtiON
半世紀石英傳奇
The quartz revolution: celebrating yeArS
50
倫敦盛世
LOndOn Luxury: Off to the Savoy
李施嬅
Selena Lee Action
進取的 施嬅
figure
非域珍藏
Out of Africa with Chaumet 優雅簡約主義
Living with minimalism elitegen.ca
CAN$4.99
Fabulous
Fall
publisher’s letter
愛買愛吃愛玩樂
Fashion, food, fun 置身於多倫多、溫哥華和卡加利這樣美麗的城市,只 要你願意,不愁沒有節目。特別是距離聖誕佳節只有個多 月時間,已得籌劃禮物清單、要以何種造型打扮出席大大 小小的派對……太多的地方想去要去,時間卻這樣有限。 出門前不要忘記噴上全新Chanel No5 Red香水,當 然,如果你擁有的是全球僅得55瓶、由Baccarat打造水晶 瓶身的限量版時,感覺相信會更加良好。要愈變愈美麗和 自信滿滿的出現人前,自然要緊貼日與夜、絢麗與硬朗的 時裝潮流,今期為你介紹女士的百變形象。 我們當然不會忽略了男士們,除了LV的天橋騷,還奉 上時尚品牌休閒鞋,提供保養貼士。 以貌取人,失之子羽。今期的封面人物李施嬅原來並 沒有想象中的嬌柔,入行15年的她對演戲抱有一團火,為 了拓闊演藝路,不惜像新人般到北美不住試鏡,屢敗屢戰 的堅持,不但為她贏到2個外國影展的最佳女主角獎,也 成為北美電視劇的主角。難得的是她即使怎樣忙碌,也積 極參與動物保育活動,內文便分享了她和好姊妹姚子羚到 非洲觀賞動物大遷徙的圖片。 由多位加拿大名廚組成的烹飪團隊,將於1月遠征 里昂,代表加拿大參與被譽為廚藝界奧林匹克的Bocuse d’ Or大賽,有機會取得獎牌零的突破。加油!加拿大隊!
T
here is never a dearth of things to do in beautiful cities like Toronto, Vancouver and Calgary. But as we head closer and closer to the holiday season, invitations to parties here and galas there are just beginning to pile up. Dilemmas abound: Where to go, what to do? So many places, so little time.
Before you start planning your festive itinerary, make sure you check out what the most fashionable items will be wearing—men, don’t worry, we also got you covered. And don’t walk out that door ladies without your Chanel No5 Red, that is, if you can get your hands on the custom designed Baccarat bottle of parfum. There are only 55 in the world, you know. Just sayin’. We hope you will be inspired by our cover girl Selena Lee, who is not only a rising TV star but the busy actress dedicates much of her time to save the animals. From the depths of the ocean to the savannah of Africa, Lee never misses an opportunity to be at one with nature in her pursuit of wildlife conservation. Back on the fashion front, it’s no surprise that today’s woman is always on the move: from boho and go-go to shimmer and shine, she seamlessly transitions from gender-neutral daywear to glittery glamour. And while we are on the subject of all that shines, we’d be remiss if we didn’t say hip hip hooray to Team Canada who is in Lyon, France competing in the most prestigious culinary competition in the world. Your hometown foodies are behind you all the way. Bonne chance and bon appétit! Sincerely,
Leslie Yip Associate Publisher
facebook.com/LeslieYip Twitter & Instagram: leslieyip0911
6
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
A sing tao publicAtion
行政總裁 Chief Executive Officer 佩嘉露 Carol Peddie 總裁 President 黃敬強 Calvin Wong 副社長 Associate Publisher 葉子青 Leslie Yip
編輯部 editorial 編輯及美術總監 Editorial/Design Director 華艾朗 Alan A Vernon 副總編輯 Deputy Editor-in-chief 胡君偉 Kelvin Wu 加東版 Canada East Editor 徐少玲 Iris Chui 加西版 Canada West Editor 張萬青 Katherine Cheung 編審 Copy Editor Ross Hopkins 助理編輯 Assistant Editor 卓穗良 Kannis Cheuk 編輯部 Editorial enquiries editorial@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111
參與 Contributors Marc Atchison, Grace Chan, Sidney Chao, Lorne Drury, Kenson Ho, Zoe Mak, Crystal Ng, Renèe Suen, Shuk Wa Tsang, George Verdolaga, Livian Wu, Emilia Ku Yazar, Clarice Yik, Iris Yim
互聯網及社交媒體 Online & social media 統籌 Coordinator 陳麗華 Tiffany Tan
美術部 production & design 美術及製作經理 Production Manager/Art Direction 邱卓庭 Cliff Yau 美術助理 Graphic Art Assistant 陸凱茵 Gloria Luk
廣告及市場部 Advertising sales & marketing 總經理 General Manager 鄺翠嬋 Sandy Kwong
營業代表 Sales Representatives Pierra Chiu, Paul Liao 營業部 Advertising enquiries calsales@singtao.ca / 403-213-6882
發行部 Circulation & Distribution 羅譚綺玲 Elaine Lo caladmin@singtao.ca / 403-263-1668
出版 Publishing Sing Tao Daily Limited, a division of Toronto Star Media Group 星島日報,多倫多星報傳媒集團轄下機構
星尚歡迎來稿,但不對投稿負上任何責任。 星尚每年出版九期 。所有內容均為本刊資產。 eliteGen welcomes submissions but is not responsible for unsolicited materials. eliteGen is printed 9 times a year. Entire contents are property of eliteGen . 部份內容由新傳媒集團有限公司提供 930-55 Avenue NE, Calgary, Alberta T2E 6Y4
CONTENTS
eliteGen
30
up front 6 出版人的話 publisher's letter 8 團隊 Masthead
18
celebrity 14 dress code: on the red carpet
timepieces 18 半世紀石英傳奇 story tiMe jewellery 24 非域珍藏 african safari
celebrity 30 封面故事 進取的李施嬅 cover girl: selena lee
fashion: women 36 潮流特區 get in the trenches, today's woMan fashion: men 52 體面男生 laid-back loafers, runway: louis vuitton Men
24
36
CONTENTS
eliteGen
92 72
beauty & scents 59 lancôMe, arMani, neostrata 62 護膚日與夜 night and day 64 火紅誘惑 the lady in red tech
66 移動影院 royole Moon automobiles 68 豪華新境界 leXus ls 500h lifestyle 72 優雅簡約主義 it’s all in the Zen
80
76 優質生活藝術由餐具開始 building your dinnerware collection 80 名師傢具 high end furnitures 82 最具英國味的紐西蘭酒莊 wine not: not so odd but true 84 美食之旅 the salted vine
88 加國烹飪隊遠征法國里昂 love food. will travel. 92 倫敦盛世 travel: luXury london society 98 been there: the party circuit
64
A WAKE-UP CALL FOR YOUR EYES: YOUTH ACTIVATING & DARK CIRCLE FADING. 环形双眸无限火力 激活青春光彩,击退黑眼圈
ADVANCED GÉNIFIQUE YEUX
NEW/ 新品
Dress coDe
by Lily Lee
14
格外醒神 curvaceous
少女回歸 posh pixie
罕見清新 tiMeless tiers
陳凱琳
莫文蔚
姚子羚
Grace Chan
Karen Mok
Elaine Yiu
一向纖瘦的陳凱琳,穿上這入膊紅裙,突出靚靚鎖 骨,甚有美感,裙擺的魚尾造型,更成功修飾其紙 板身材,配以同樣隆重的妝容和髮型,果然人逢喜 事精神爽!
莫文蔚的桃色透視閃裙顯得她仙氣十足,膚色甚是 晶瑩,裙擺間若隱若現的露出長腿,流露難得的少 女味道。
姚子羚的Alice McCall杏色底襯黑色波點晚裝裙,是 少見的清新,雖然裙身有很多褶襇飾邊,難得沒影 響其身型的修長比例。
The halter neckline and flowing quiver hemline from Chrisélle hugs in all the right places.
Glitter goes a long way to make you look like a Disney princess.
This Alice McCall evening gown is loaded with layers and feminine charm.
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Dress coDe
16
配搭得宜 showing it off
大方熟女 cLassic chic
高貴成熟 Lady in red
蔡卓妍
楊穎
劉嘉玲
Charlene Choi
Angelababy
Carina Lau
紅色珠片一向難駕馭,很易顯得俗氣。阿sa聰明 的以Anirac露膊泡泡袖衫,襯以Halpern紅色珠片闊 褲,年輕新潮,又不失隆重。
穿百摺裙一定要腰幼腹平,否則會顯得很臃腫,楊 穎以修長米色百摺裙配搭黑色喱士上衣衫,很有輕 熟女韻味,大方得體!
搶眼成熟的Alexandre Vauthier紅裙很是適合劉嘉 玲,甚有女人味,領口、手袖和腰間的豐富細節 位,更增添不少睇頭。
Off-the-shoulder silhouettes are a sexy but elegant way to show off some skin.
Classic colours like black and beige pair perfectly by day or by night.
This satiny Alexandre Vauthier gathers gorgeously to accentate this leading lady's natural curves.
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
TimeworThy 法國物理學家Pierre Curie發現了壓電效應 Piezoelectric Effect,在1880年發覺將電力加到石 英,便會產生超高的每秒32,768次震動頻率。堪 稱為石英錶之父。 French physicist Pierre Curie discovered the Piezoelectric Effect in 1880. He found that when quartz crystals were exposed to an electric field they would vibrate at 32,768 times per second. This made him the father of quartz watches.
半世紀石英傳奇
Story time
The quartz revolution celebrates 50 years Story | Ringo Chan Photography | Bowy Chan
18
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
對瑞士鐘錶業來說,石英,是夢魘。當年瑞士也有份 研製石英技術,結果險些連自己百年基業也毀掉。石 英錶令腕錶普及於世,而且不斷發展,最新的準繩度 可達每年誤差正負1秒,即一年只有眨一下眼的時間 誤差而已! The quartz movement caused nightmares for the Swiss watch industry. While the industry jumped on the bandwagon to research quartz technology in the early days, its cornerstone in mechanical watchmaking was badly shaken. And the quartz revolution is not letting up, as quartz timepieces are increasingly affordable and accuracy has improved to a negligible second per year.
當年搭載於Omega腕錶內的Beta 21石英機芯。 The Beta 21 quartz mechanism in old Omegas.
石英,化學方程式為SiO2(二氧化矽),是地球上數 量第二多的礦石。法國物理學家Pierre Curie在1880年發 覺,把石英水晶施加壓力,它便會產生電流脈衝,反之 亦然,如將電力加諸石英,它就會產生相當穩定而超高 的震動頻率。這個超高,是指每秒震動32,768次,是每 秒,比起傳統腕錶的擒縱擺輪每小時28,800次,差距是8 千至1萬倍。這個物理現象,稱為壓電效應(Piezoelectric Effect)。
精工把石英戴上手 瑞士早在1962年已開始研發石英機芯,Rolex、 Patek Philippe、Omega、IWC、JLC、Piaget等20 個品牌在Neuchatel成立了Swiss Centre Electronique Horloger(CEH)創建中心,同心協力研發效能更超卓的未 來機芯。4年後,採用8,192Hz石英電路板的Cal. Beta-1 機芯面世,到了1969年,錶迷不會陌生的Cal. Beta 21終 於誕生,首年生產的6,000枚機芯分給各大品牌使用。由 於體積較大、耗電驚人,加上售價不菲,所以在歐洲未 能普及起來。其後Rolex及Omega離開CEH,自家繼續研 製石英技術。 把石英技術發揚光大的,是日本精工。二戰後日本 成功爭取舉辦1964年東京奧運,當時精工受命為指定計 時,它的最大任務是把計時裝置全部石英化,而且要微 型化方便攜帶,結果半年後精工成功把計時器輕量化至 約3kg。1968年,精工第三代傳人服部正次下令:一年內 要把石英時計戴上手腕!結果上下員工再絞盡腦汁把零 件微型化,就在1969年12月25日,「Astron」石英腕錶誕 生了,它們研製的音叉狀石英震盪器、微型步進摩打、 最先進集成電路……揭開了全球鐘錶業大變天的序章。 日本石英錶由最初價值等於一部房車,十年八載間 普及到人人負擔得起。這段期間瑞士鐘錶業經歷了冰霜 浩劫,七十年代初期瑞士有超過1,600家鐘錶公司,近10 萬名從業員;到了八十年代中期,約1,000家廠房被逼結 業,超過三分二員工要轉行。而1980年日本因為大量生 產石英錶而成為全球第一大鐘錶生產國。
Patek Philippe六十年代推出的石英腕錶。 A quartz watch by Patek Philippe circa 1960s.
The quartz movement caused nightmares for the Swiss watch industry. While the industry jumped on the bandwagon to research quartz technology in the early days, its cornerstone in mechanical watchmaking was badly shaken. And the quartz revolution is not letting up, as quartz timepieces are increasingly affordable and accuracy has improved to a negligible ±1 second per year. Quartz is the chemical compound silicon dioxide (SiO2), the secondmost abundant mineral in the world. French physicist Pierre Curie found in 1880 that an electrical potential was generated when quartz crystals were compressed. In reverse, when the crystals were exposed to an electric field, they would produce steady high-frequency oscillation, at 32,768 vibrations per second, which was 8,000 to 10,000 times faster compared to 28,800 per hour of a conventional escapement. This is called the Piezoelectric Effect.
SEIkO PuT QuArTz InTO WrISTWATChES The Swiss watch industry began looking into quartz mechanisms in 1962, when 20 brands, among them rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, IWC, JL and Piaget, set up Swiss Centre Electronique horloger (CEh) at neuchatel to research on higher performance mechanisms for the future. Four years later, Cal. Beta-1 using 8,192hz circuit was born. By 1969, Cal. Beta 21 that watch buffs are most familiar with was introduced. A total of 6,000 pieces were produced in the first year and shared among the brands. As the mechanism was rather large and the power consumption quite significant, and the price was relatively high, the watch didn’t gain traction in Europe. rolex and Omega left CEh subsequently but continued to research the quartz movement independently. It was Seiko that made quartz big. After World War II, Japan won the right to host the 1964 Olympics in Tokyo. Seiko was appointed the official time-keeper. Its mission was to use quartz-power, portable time-keeping devices exclusively. Within six months, Seiko managed to reduce the weight of its timers to 3 kg. On Christmas day of 1969, the quartz watch Astron was launched. The Y-shaped quartz oscillator, ultra-small stepping motor and advanced integrated circuit paved the way to overhaul the global watch industry. Within a decade or so, Japanese quartz watches had gone from costing as much as a car to becoming readily affordable by most. This brought on an ice age for the Swiss watch industry. In the early 1970s, there were in excess of 1,600 watchmaking companies employing nearly 100,000 workers in Switzerland. By the mid 1980s, about 1,000 companies were forced out and two-thirds of workers had to change careers as Japan became the world’s biggest watch-making nation thanks to mass production of quartz watches.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
19
TimeworThy
當年Steve Jobs抱著第一部Mac 電腦登上 《Time》 封面。當時他戴 著的是Seiko Chariot石英錶,之 後以$42,500美元成功拍賣。 When Steve Jobs was on the Time magazine cover with the first Mac, he wore a Seiko Chariot quartz watch, which was subsequently auctioned for US$42,500.
石英錶的特性
QuArTz WATCh ATTrIBuTES
石英錶的最大好處是準,還有輕巧、防磁、穩定、 保養容易、價錢相宜等優點。但缺點是欠缺人性及工藝 性,加上電池壽命有限、石英震動5至8年後會衰退,也 是石英表不能「一代傳一代」的致命傷。石英還有一個天 性弱點,就是較易受溫度影響。石英震動器在攝氏25度 表現最好,溫度上升會令它加快,反之則減慢;設計師 為了修正這問題,於是設計了溫度補償迴路,一旦溫度 有異便會發出訊號給IC電路作出更正,如此一來,石英 機芯的精準度又躍升約10倍,誤差率亦由月計提升為以 年作單位,超級石英機芯從而誕生。
Quartz watches prevail because they are accurate, light, anti-magnetic, stable, easy to maintain and relatively cheap. however, they lack character and artistry. Battery life will eventually run out, and the oscillation rate will deteriorate over five to eight years, making it difficult to pass them down the generations. The biggest shortcoming is that quartz is sensitive to temperatures. While a quartz oscillator can perform well at 25°C, higher temperatures will make it go faster, and vice versa. To tackle this issue, designers have added temperature compensation circuits, sending signals to the integrated circuit for correction when the temperature varies. This has boosted the precision rate of quartz watches by 10 times, and the variation rate is calculated based on months rather than years. Super quartz watches have become viable.
是如何做到一年誤差只有±1秒的機芯?這已經是石 英機芯的極限嗎? Citizen為慶祝誕生100周年而研製的Cal.0100光動 能機芯,成功登上全球最精準機芯。這要歸功於內裡一 個AT切割石英振盪器,它的震頻達到8,388,608Hz(是一 般機械機芯的1,600萬倍!),溫度穩定器令它能在-20° C 至60° C間發揮最佳狀態。充滿電後把它放在全黑環境, 機芯能運行至少半年時間。懷錶的設計意念源自品牌於 1924年推出的第一枚懷錶作品。可惜的是,這枚搭載只 厚2.92mm的Cal.0100光動能機芯的懷錶是非賣品,不過 Citizen已表明這項高精密技術將會應用於明年作品,因 為明年正正是石英錶誕生50周年紀念。
how to achieve a variation rate of ±1second per year? Is that the ultimate for quartz mechanisms? Citizen has introduced Cal.0100 Eco-Drive movement as the world’s most accurate quartz watch movement to mark its centenary, powered by an AT-cut quartz that vibrates at 8,388,608hzper second, 160 million times faster than regular mechanical calibres. The temperature stabilizer keeps it at optimal performance at ambient temperatures of -20°C to 60°C. When charged and left in a dark area, the movement can work for at least half a year. The pocket watch design was inspired by the brand’s first pocket watch in 1924. It’s a shame that this Cal.0100 Eco-Drive pocket watch measuring just 2.92 mm thick is not for sale. But Citizen promises this high-precision technology will be applied to the watches slated for next year to mark the 50th anniversary of quartz watches.
把體積極力縮細,精工於1964年 東京奧運大放異彩的石英計時器。 The time-keepers for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics demonstrated Seiko’s achievement in reducing the size of quartz devices.
史上首枚石英錶Seiko Astron搭載 的機芯。 The mechanism of Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch in history.
20
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
BrEITLIng ExOSPACE B55 品牌自製的B55機芯,有SuperQuartz超級石英機 芯之稱,獲得瑞士官方天文台認證,由於擁有溫度補償 裝置,所以精準度比一般石英機芯提升10倍,每年誤差 為±15秒。此外,當這枚專為航空專業人士而設的腕錶 跟手機連接,便可以在電話設定時間、時區轉換、調校 鬧鐘、設置夜間模式等。如手機接收到電郵、Whatsapp 訊息、電話來電、行事曆提醒等,都可以「推送」到腕錶 上;用家也可以把腕錶記錄下來的計時資料、飛行時間 等回送到智能手機,方便用來分析數據、儲存、分享等。 有指針和兩個液晶顯示的Exospace B55,是為飛行 員而設,所以兼備如電子測速計、高達50次分段連續計 時、倒數/正數計時系統,以及航空領域專用的「飛行時 間」計時功能。以黑色鈦金屬打造的錶殼直徑46mm,單 向旋轉錶圈飾有標誌性的錶圈指示器,防水100米。約售 $12,500。
The brand’s in-house B55 calibre is described as SuperQuartz and COSC certified. It is fitted with a temperature compensation mechanism, making it 10 times more accurate than a regular quartz mechanism, at ±15 seconds per year variation. This watch, specially designed for pilots, can be connected to a smart phone to adjust settings on time, time zone, alarm and night mode. When the smart phone receives email, whatspp messages, calls or calendar alerts, they will also be “sent” to the watch. users can also send information from the timer and flight time to the smart phone for data analysis or to save or share. Exospace B55, with hands and two LCD displays, is designed for pilots. It is fitted with a digital tachometer and can record 50 consecutive timing segments, countdown or running-clock timing, as well as “flight time” chronograph much needed for aviation. The black titanium case measures 46mm in diameter. The uni-directional bezel is decorated with a signature bezel indicator. It is water-proof to 100 metres. (Price approx.$12,500)
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
21
TimeworThy
CITIzEn ECO-DrIvE OnE
22
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
在Citizen眼中,最好的動力來源是「光」。兩年前適 值Eco-Drive光動能誕生40周年,品牌研發了全球最薄 的腕錶Eco-Drive One。它內搭的Cal. 8826石英機芯只 有1mm厚, ;連同錶殼也只不過厚2.98mm,有史無前例 的「輕」「薄」感。
Citizen believes that the best power source is light. Two years ago, when Eco-Drive marked its 40th anniversary, the brand successfully developed the world’s thinnest watch Eco-Drive One, powered by a 1mm thick quartz mechanism, Cal. 8826. The whole watch is no thicker than 2.98mm, and is rightfully the lightest and thinnest warmth thus far.
兩年前創下的纖薄紀錄,迄今無人能打破,只有它 在自我改良。這枚光動能機芯,無論吸取天然光或人造 光,一旦充滿電便能運行1年(初推出時只有10個月), 誤差率是每月±15秒。也由於機芯太薄太脆弱,所以直 徑37mm錶殼要特別保護,選用的材質是非一般堅硬防 刮的金屬陶瓷。今年品牌帶來限量1,000枚的特別版, 錶圈以Altic製成,是一種維氏硬度達1900HV的超硬物 料。約售8,400元。
This record hasn’t yet been broken, while the watch continues to outdo itself. Once fully charged by exposing to natural light or artificial lighting, it can run for a year (an improvement from 10 months when it was first introduced). The variation rate is ±15 seconds per month. As the calibre is too thin and too fragile, the 37mm watch case needs to be really solid, hence ultra-hard and scratch-proof metal ceramics are used. This year, the brand has launched a limited edition of 1,000 pieces. The bezel is made of Altic, a super hard material measuring up to 1900hv. (Price approx. $8,400)
NOVEMBER
•
2018
LOngInES COnQuEST v.h.P. 開宗明義以V.H.P—Very High Precision為名,皆因腕錶 的精準度達每年誤差±5秒!
The watch boasts a variation rate of just ±5 seconds per year, hence the named v.h.P (very high Precision).
Longines早在上年紀五十年代已推出首枚石英鐘,服務 於沙泰爾天文台。1969年品牌有份參與研發石英機芯,到了 1984年,首枚Conquest V.H.P.也誕生了。
Longines had embarked on making quartz watches since the 1950s for the Chatel Observatory. It was involved in quartz mechanism research in 1969. The first Conquest v.h.P. was unveiled in 1984.
去年重生的Conquest V.H.P.功能及性能皆大躍進,精準 度驚人,內裡的GPD(齒輪位置檢測)系統相當厲害,一旦腕 錶受到嚴重衝擊或磁場干擾,指針便會停頓,待不良影響消失 後,系統才會把刻下時間資訊傳給指針,讓它們「重回正軌」。 除了大三針,Conquest V.H.P.也新增了計時款,3時位置是30 分鐘累計、9時位置是12小時累計,6時位置是小秒針;值得一 提的是,雖然不設星期、月份、閏年顯示,但腕錶其實是一枚 萬年曆,日期窗的顯示直到公元2400年也不用調校。腕錶款式 繁多,錶盤有藍色、碳灰色、銀色或黑色選擇,亦可配襯精鋼 鏈帶、黑色PVD錶帶、藍色或黑色橡膠錶帶。約售$2,300。
The Conquest v.h.P. reprised last year was vastly improved in functions, performance and accuracy. The gPD system is astonishing. When the watch is exposed to trauma or magnetism, the hands will stop. When the adverse conditions are over, the system transmits time information to the hands and send them back to the right time. Other than a three-hand model, Conquest v.h.P. has added a chronograph, with a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 12-hour counter at 9 o’clock and a small second at 6 o’clock. It’s worth noting that while it doesn’t show week, month or leap year, the watch is a genuine perpetual calendar. The date window automatically indicates the right date up to the year 2400. It comes in a range of style, with dials in blue, grey, silver or black, in steel bracelet, black PvC straps or blue or black rubber straps. (Price approx. $2,300)
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
23
Jewellery: Chaumet
非域珍藏
African safari Story | Chappie 大自然向來是高級珠寶的創作靈感,Chaumet 今次以非洲大草原上野生動物為主題的 Espiè gleries,由肯尼亞藝術家Evans Mbugua 設計,大象、斑馬、猴子、長頸鹿、紅鸛、螞蟻 和獅子等色澤鮮明的動物造型,為今個Trésors d’ Afrique系列帶來童真趣味。
18K白金大象胸針,鑲嵌2顆圓形藍 寶石、粉紅色蛋白石、梨形坦桑石及 圓形薄荷色碧璽。 18K white gold elephant broch inlaid with two round blue sapphire, pink opal, pear-shaped tanzanite and round mint tourmaline.
24
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Savannah wildlife is the inspiration for Chaumet's Trésors d'Afrique collection. Designed by Kenyan artist Evans Mbugua, jewellery items include elephants, zebras, monkeys, giraffes, flamingos, ants and lions. Oh, my.
18K白金及黃金長頸鹿胸針,大 明火琺瑯工藝,鑲嵌黑檀木、晶 石、縞瑪瑙及明亮式切割鑽石。 18K white gold and yellow gold giraffe brochure inlaid by firetorch enamel with ebony, spar, onyx and brilliant cut diamonds.
18K白金、黃金及玫瑰金猴子騎斑馬胸針,大明 火琺瑯工藝,鑲嵌圓形粉紅色藍寶石、縞瑪瑙及 明亮式切割鑽石。 18K white gold, yellow gold, and rose gold monkey riding on a zebra brooch, inlaid with round pink sapphire, onyx, and brilliant cut diamonds using torch-fired enamel technique.
攀爬中的螞蟻是可變換成耳環的18K黃金 胸針,鑲嵌青金石、圓形藍寶石及圓形 紅色尖晶石。 This climbing ant is an 18K yellow gold brooch, which is convertible to earrings, is inlaid with lapid lazuli, round blue sapphires and round red spinel.
18K玫瑰金及黃金紅鸛胸針,鑲嵌共重2.1卡明亮式切割香檳 色鑽石、欖尖形切割粉紅色藍寶石、明亮式切割鑽石、縞瑪 瑙、粉紅色蛋白石、白色瑪瑙、蛋形切割綠玉髓、青金石、 黃晶、綠松石及紅碧璽。 18K rose gold and yellow gold red dragonfly brooch inlaid with brilliant cut champagne diamond, marquise cut pink sapphire, brilliant cut diamond, onyx, pink opal, white agate, egg-shared cut green chalcedony, lapis lazuli, citrine, turquoise and red tourmaline, with a total weight of 2.1 carats. 18K玫瑰金及黃金獅子胸針,鑲嵌1顆重0.8卡明亮式切割D VVS2級鑽石、圓形藍寶石、圓形黃色藍寶石及粉紅色藍寶石。 18K rose gold and yellow gold lion brooch inlaid with a 0.8 carat brilliant cut D VVS2 grade diamond, round blue sapphire, round yellow sapphire and pink sapphire. ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
25
Jewellery: Chaumet (上至下) 白金耳環,鑲嵌2顆分別重1.41卡和1.58卡 產自哥倫比亞Muzo切割祖母綠、縞瑪瑙、 6顆馬眼形切割鑽石及明亮式切割鑽石。 可變換18K白金及黃金頸鏈,鑲嵌1顆重 7.15卡產自哥倫比亞Muzo切割祖母綠寶 石、9顆重量介乎0.45至0.8卡的欖尖形切割 鑽石、縞瑪瑙及明亮式切割鑽石。 白金及黃金戒指,鑲嵌1 顆重4.08卡產自哥 倫比亞Muzo枕形切割祖母綠、1顆重0.52卡 欖尖形切割D VVS2鑽石、1顆重0.5卡欖尖 形切割EVVS1級鑽石、縞瑪瑙、欖尖形切 割鑽石及明亮式切割鑽石。 (Top to bottom) White gold earrings inlaid with two Columbian Muzo cut emeralds weighing 1.41 carat and 1.58 carat respectively, onyx, six horse eye shaped diamonds and brilliant cut diamonds. Convertible 18K white gold and yellow gold necklace inlaid with one 7.15 carat Columbian Muzocut emerald, nine marquise cut diamonds onyx, and brilliant cut diamonds weighing between 0.45 and 0.8 carats. White gold and yellow gold rings inlaid with a 4.08 carat Columbian Muzo pillow cut emerald weighing 4.08 carat, a 0.52 carat marquise cut D VVS2 diamond, a 0.5 carat marquise cut E VVS1 diamond, onyx, marquise cut diamonds and brilliant cut diamonds.
Ronde de Pierres 18K白 金頸鏈,鑲嵌1顆重10.14 卡,產自錫蘭枕形切割藍 色藍寶石、石榴石串珠、 藍寶石串珠、紅色尖晶石 串珠、祖母綠串珠、黑色 圓形尖晶石及明亮式切割 鑽石。 Ronde de Pierres 18K white gold necklace inlaid with a 10.14 carat Sri Lankan pillow cut blue sapphire, garnet beads, sapphire beads, red spinel beads, emerald beads, black round spinel, and brilliant cut diamonds.
18K白金手鏈,鑲嵌2顆分別重2.01卡和1.71卡,產自錫蘭枕形切割藍寶 石、石榴石串珠、藍寶石串珠、紅色尖晶石串珠、祖母綠串珠、黑色圓形 尖晶石及明亮式切割鑽石。 18K white gold bracelet inlaid with two Sri Lankan pillow cut blue sapphires, garnet beads, sapphire beads, red spinel beads and brilliant cut diamonds.
26
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
絲帶美學 Trésors d’ Afrique中最能展現Chaumet超卓 工藝的,是靈感來自非洲文化中以層疊飾品構築 女性面部輪廓的Cascades Royales系列,這些以 縞瑪瑙、鑽石和色澤鮮艷的祖母綠的設計,宛如 纖長的絲帶,出自品牌最純熟的刀鋒工藝。
RibbOn AESThETiC in the Trésors d'Afrique collection, the pieces that most demonstrate the superior craftsmanship of Chaument is the Cascade Royales collection. These designs are inspired by the African traditional art technique of emulating the contour of the face of a woman with successive layers of ornaments. Shaped in a long ribbon and made with the most proficient carving skills, these are made with onyx, diamonds and brightly coloured emeralds.
Cover girl
進取的施嬅
Action figure
Selena Lee: Actor or animal activist? Try both Story | Iris Chui
李施嬅的積極是討諸行動的。 希望多些人留意到她首次拍的北美電視劇 《Blood and water》第二季,會得主動接觸素未謀 面的傳媒,爭取如何早日見報;想要多些人關心 保育,身體力行擠時間自資往非洲親歷動物大遷 徙,尋找大象和大猩猩,拍照片給傳媒刊登,既 可保持曝光率,更重要是引起關注。 有些事處理得不好會顯得很難看,像是但求 見報似的。但言談間那團火卻騙不了人,李施嬅 對所追求事物的激情,的確教人刮目相看。 入行15年的李施嬅在TVB向來是大樹好遮 蔭,導演覺得角色適合便會找她,只需考慮接還 是不接。直至這兩年跳出安樂區,不住在北美試 鏡,失望而回的多。有好幾次殺進最後兩強,但 都失諸交臂,對方明言不選她,並非是她的演技 問題,而是對手知名度更高、市場價值較大。所 以她看《La La Land》,當Emma Stone在多次試 鏡失敗時,沮喪灰心的說:「I can’ t handle this anymore ! (再也承受不了)」即時有共鳴。「TVB原 來是一個安樂窩,自己慣了被保護。來到真實世 界去試鏡,和其他人競爭,方知過程原來這樣艱 辛,才發覺自己很多方面都未夠好。有時真的很 傷自尊,接受不來。第一次試鏡失敗時,很不甘 心,情緒足足低落了一個星期。如何保持鬥心, 也是一種學習。告訴自己跌低沒關係,最重要是 要站起身,堅持下去。」
30
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Selena Lee is a woman of action. Now in the second season of her first North American TV series Blood and Water (pictured below), Selena Lee contacted eliteGen directly to get more exposure for her new show. Since she started at TVB 15 year ago, Lee has always been the go-to choice in Hong Kong. Directors were always calling her to play myriad roles. But two years ago, Lee jumped out of her comfort zone and came to North America to go on auditions non-stop. The disappointments were new to her as she did not get many of the parts she went to audition for. Even coming close and being one of the final two, she lost out on the role to other more famous Chinese actors. But seeing the film La La Land, and hearing Emma Stone’s character say, “I can’t handle this anymore” after failing so many auditions, Lee saw her real life self on the big screen. “It turns out that TVB was a very comfortable home. I was used to being protected,” says Lee. “Once I entered the real world of auditions and competition with others, I realized that the process was actually very challenging. I then noticed that there were many areas I still was not good at, which was quite bruising to the ego and difficult to accept. The lesson learned is to keep fighting, to keep telling oneself that it’s fine to fall down. What’s important is to get back up, and to persist.”
NEVEr gIVE up Lee’s fighting spirit and the fire in her belly continued to grow. Doing a lot of prep work, she welcomed every opportunity, acknowledging the many possibilities and surprises ahead. And whether too busy or just too tired, Lee kept up her rigorous workouts. Says Lee: “While you are filming, the schedule is grueling. So physical fitness training is one way to build up discipline, while building up your health and your strength.”
Hair | Zap Tang Makeup | Stephen Lau Styling | Mildred Lo
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
31
Cover girl
永不言棄 屢敗屢戰,卻反而激起李施嬅的鬥心,她說現在自己 心內對演戲那團火,是之前從未有過的,永不言放棄。「置 身娛樂圈的確很多時都很被動、有不知道甚麼時候會被選 上的危機感,然而也因此有著很多可能性和驚喜在前方, 我也試過做生意,但發覺最令我開心的還是演戲。也因為 要做好準備迎接每一個機會,有時即使多麼辛苦或疲倦, 都會保持做運動,因為拍攝期間通常都很辛苦,訓練體能 是鍛鍊意志的方法之一,也可以保持健康,加強能量。」 像這次也是經試鏡得來《Blood and water》第二季中黑 警殺手角色,去年12月到安省咸美頓進行拍攝前,她便做 足準備工夫,學功夫和槍擊之餘,也積極減掉15磅。 「那是 一個性格很多陰暗面和悲傷的角色,為了不可告人的的原 因做壞事甚至殺人,身型瘦些會顯得滄桑和深沉 。這是我 從未演過的角色,希望可以有說服力,也為我的演藝路開 拓新方向。」
貼心姊妹 李施嬅跟胡杏兒、胡定欣、黃智雯、姚子羚和胡蓓 蔚組成的「胡說八道會」是圈中著名的姊妹淘。去年電視 台拍她們一伙人到澳洲旅行,期間她拿出憑微電影《Once More》拿到的最佳女主角獎跟她們分享喜悅時,當事人固 然喜極而泣,身邊的姊妹們也陪著落淚。「在我們這班姊妹 當中,只有我一個人沒有在TVB拿過獎,有時會想是不是 自己不夠好,不是一個好演員,真的感到很氣餒,幸好有 她們在我身邊,不住的打氣和帶正能量給我,讓我堅持下 去。」 李施嬅在2008年憑《紫禁驚雷》第一次獲提名競逐TVB 的最佳女主角,當年的對手是黎姿 佘詩曼 宣萱和張可 頤,落敗是意料中事。「現在的新一代演員可能冒升得快, 感覺沒那樣深刻。在我入行的時代,每個人都試過做小角 色,慢慢熬上去,要經歷好多才得到認同,每一個獎項都 得來不易,所以第一次拿到最佳女主角獎,即使那不是規 模很大的影展,但那一刻真的很激動,得到認同的莫大喜 悅,教人忍不住哭。」 她很感恩這兩年多有姊妹們在身邊的日子,「如果沒 有她們出現在我的生命,我不會變成今天的李施嬅。杏兒 的超凡工作態度 豹嫂的堅強 智雯的幽默 子羚經常陪 我喝酒聊天 定欣工作雖然辛苦也依然正面處之……都讓 我覺得工作也可以是開心事。」 許多人以為娛樂圈存在太多利益衝突,很難交到知心 好友。但李施嬅卻說她們「胡說八道會」這幾個女孩子均是 很正面的互相幫助,彼此為對方著想,沒有妒忌較勁這回 事。「大家都很努力工作。其實身邊人愈好,自己也會愈 好;就等於你扶起一個人時,自己也會因而站得高了。」
32
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Things started to look up after she auditioned and got the role of a cop killer in the second season of Blood and Water. Last December, before she went to Hamilton, Ontario to film, she worked hard to prepare for her new role. Not only did she learn martial arts and shooting, she also lost 15 pounds. “This is a role that has many dark and sad sides,” says Lee. “She has secret reasons for doing bad things, even killing. A slimmer body would look more seasoned and darker. This is a role I have never done before, so I hope it will be convincing, and will open up new directions for me.”
SISTErHOOD Even though Lee’s career is on an upswing, she still finds the time to see TVB besties Myolie Wu, Nancy Wu, Mandy Wong, Elaine Yiu and paisley Wu. And last year, the friends took a trip to Australia to film a travel reality show for TVB. During the trip Lee and her friends shared some teary-eyed joy when she received a Best Actress Award for her role in Once More. “Among our sisters, I was the only one who hadn’t won an award at TVB,” says Lee. “Sometimes I thought I wasn’t a good enough actress, and got really discouraged. Fortunately, I have my friends by my side, constantly cheering me on and passing on positive energy. There isn’t jealousy or competition. If I did not have them in my life, I would not be the Selena Lee of today. In truth, the better the people around you, the better you will be. It’s just like when you are lifting someone up, you will stand taller.” In 2008, Lee was nominated for the TVB Best Actress Award for The Life and Times of a Sentinel. unlucky for her, that year she went up against the very famous gigi Lai, Charmaine Sheh, Jessica Hester Hsuan and Maggie Cheung. So it was not so much of a surprise that Lee did not win. “These days the new generation of actors rise rapidly that we do not have strong impressions of them,” says Lee. “But when I first started acting, everyone tried small roles and had to climb up slowly. It took a lot before gaining recognition, and every award was hard earned. So this time, for my first Best Actress Award, even though it was not from a well-known, prestigious film festival, I was still very emotional when I won. It was a great joy to be recognized, so I couldn’t help but cry.”
prOMOTINg CONSErVATION These days, whenever Lee has time off, she would go to Los Angeles to take acting classes, and she would also participate in conservation and environmentalist activities. Says Lee: “I like animals a lot, and so I want to share the message of environmental protection and conservation. But I always participate as a private individual.”
“
“
The better the people around you, the better you will be. It’s just like when you are lifting someone up, you will stand taller.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
33
Cover girl
透過跟鯊魚和平共泳的美麗圖片,藉以宣揚 不要吃魚翅的訊息。 Lee spreads the message of not eating shark fin by swimming with sharks.
34
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
宣揚保育 現在每逢放假,李施嬅都到洛杉磯上演技課程,同 時也參與有關保育和環保的活動。「我很喜歡動物,好 想宣揚環保及保育訊息,不過都是以私人性質參與。」 早前她便到過夏威夷參與和鯊魚一起潛水的活動, 鼓吹停止吃魚翅的風氣,還拍了好些和鯊魚共游的照片 給傳媒發放。「公眾不是沒有聽過,但久而久之卻淡忘 了,我們希望多做一些能喚起大家注意的事,而圖片往 往是吸引大家注意力的最佳媒介之一。」 9月初趁著由她擔正女主角的《刑事偵緝檔案第4 輯》還未開拍,她便和姚子羚抽了八天空檔到非洲看動 物大遷徙,起程前單是打各式預防針已要個多月,還要 轉接的先飛曼谷 奈羅比 再到盧旺達。「這不是容易 去的地方,各式費用加起來也頂肉赤。但親眼目睹大象 和大猩猩等是我向來嚮往的事,值得花這些時間和錢。 其實我真的不明白為什麼有人那樣短視,為了得到象牙 而非法獵殺大象,我相信很多人都有興趣接觸大自然, 觀賞動物,以此作招徠發展旅遊業,不是可以賺取更多 收入嗎﹖把動物殺了就什麼都沒有了。」
With the courage of her convictions, she also took a trip to Hawaii for an event in which she goes diving with the sharks to discourage eating shark fin. “It’s not that the public has not heard about this before, but people forget after a while. We just hope to raise awareness, and pictures are often one of the best mediums to draw attention.” Before shooting starts this fall for the TVB TV series Detective Investigations File IV, which she stars in, Lee went with gal pal Elaine Yiu to Africa to watch the great migration of animals. Not only did she keep herself in the public eye, she also raised awareness for nature conservation. Just to get all the immunization shots took them over a month. She found elephants and gorillas and took pictures to share with the media. During the trip, they have to first fly to Bangkok, then Nairobi, and then rwanda. Says Lee: “This is not an easy place to get to. The costs really add up. But I have always looked forward to seeing these animals in person. So it is worth it to spend the time and money. I actually don’t understand why some people are so short-sighted and want to poach the elephants to harvest their ivory. I believe many people will be interested in getting in touch with nature and observing animals. If we use this as to advertise and develop tourism, we should be able to touch more people. On the other hand, if you kill the animals, you’ll get nothing in the end.”
她愛動物,剛和姚子羚到非洲親歷動大遷徒的景象。 Lee went to Africa with one of her besties, Elaine Yiu, to watch the great migration. ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
35
fashion: runway
愈變愈美麗
Today's woman Story | E & Michelle Chow
現代女性靈活多變,今個秋冬大熱的中性硬朗,或 是閃爍華麗風格,俱散發著獨特多樣的女性魅力。 Who isn’t on the move these days? That’s why fashion for the modern woman transitions easily between gender-neutral daywear to a glittering glamorous night on the town.
Tsumori Chisato cape
MSGM fringe jeans $880 (modaoperadi.com) 36
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Fendi
Dior embroidered clogs
big on boho 今季的民族風來得簡約利落,斗篷和 流蘇細節更是主要元素,飄逸動感平添瀟 灑帥氣。
Watch for the reinvention of the hippy.
Valentino
Marina Rinaldi basketweave and triacetate short sleeved dress
Dior
Dior woven bracelet
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
37
fashion: runway
hide 'n' seek 西裝外套及皮革服飾散發硬朗又性感的 魅力,今季尤其流行loose-cut西裝外套, 展現女性帥氣個性的一面。
Leather is back in a big way.
Givenchy
Givenchy Show ankle booties $1,265 (saksfifthavenue.com)
Dior
38
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Max & Co. nappa skirt with studs
Max Mara
Penny Black coated jersey trousers
Tod’s
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
39
fashion: runway
gala go-go 延續春夏的的華麗閃爍潮流,珠 片、閃石、金屬布料等繼續打造古典 而浪漫華麗系列。
Sequin glamour, sparkling gems and metallic fabrics are always on trend.
Gucci
Chanel
Saint Laurent
Ports 1961 short sleeve t-shirt
40
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Moschino silver backpack
Dior
Ports 1961
MM6 Maison Margiela pleated cropped trousers $1,431 (farfetch.com)
Miu MIu sequin Mary Jane pumps US$890 (miumiu.com)
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
41
fashion: runway Miu Miu
Marc Jacobs
Moschino mid rise pocket skirt $855 (farfetch.com)
Gucci
Par-tay circuit 強調肩膊線條、高腰褲、誇張的撞色都令人重回八十年代 的華麗派對,在奢華大膽中見洗練的女性形象。
The 1980’s is back with exaggerated shoulders, high-waisted pants and colour clashes.
Tsumori Chisato red blouse with bow
Chanel
42
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
fashion: faLL
英姿颯颯
In the trenches
This classic wardrobe staple will never let you down Story & styling | Sum Chan Photography | Simon C Makeup | Angel Mok Model | Badu at Calcarries Photography assistant | Anthony
乍寒還暖,正好需要一件乾濕褸。 源自英國的乾濕褸,已有過百年歷史。回溯1914 年Trench Warfare戰事爆發,結構適合攜帶軍事用品的 Burberry防水風衣大受歡迎(另一老牌子Aquascutum也於 同期加入生產)。Trench意指「溝」,是戰時的地下戰壕。 這英國設計也因此而起名為trench coat。後來盛行至美、 法兩國,不再是軍隊專用,更成為日常服飾。 今時今日的trench,多側重外形設計,換上較薄和 輕身的布料,減少了功能性的細節,未必是擋風抵寒的必 選,卻成為能夠媲美牛仔褲和白恤衫,易於配襯搭的百搭 選項。今季多個品牌不約而同於系列加插了trench look, 經典卡其色以外、又見軍綠;既有褸也有斗篷,有的更來 一點變奏:好像Givenchy的背心斗篷twin-set與Valentino 的大帽子設計。稱得上是trench look,當然伴隨各式各樣 同色系的配搭品,尤其是裸色長、短靴。鍾情經典的可以 考慮形神俱備的老牌踏實款式,售價高昂但值得投資。
44
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
The dry and wet warts from the UK have been around for more than a hundred years. Back in 1914, during WWI, Trench Warfare broke out and the Burberry waterproof windbreaker was indispensable, suitable for carrying military supplies. Aquascutum, was also produced during the same period. Later, the trench coat became popular in the US and France, becoming part of daily dress. With today’s trench, there is more emphasis on shape and design, using thinner and lighter fabrics, reducing functional details like protecting against wind and cold. Suffice it to say that the trench coat has become as ubiquitous a fashion statement as jeans and a white tee.
Loewe cape trenchcoat $4,435 (saksfiftheavenue.com) Louis Vuitton boots Hermès Seller gloves $950 (hermes.com)
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
45
fashion: faLL
Givenchy classic midi cape trench $3,280 (farfetch.com) Stuart Weitzman Juniper 70 booties $698 (stuartweitzman.ca)
46
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Trench coat Losange blouse $1,500 (hermes.com) Belt All Hermès Gucci long boots
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
47
fashion: faLL
Valentino beige sleeveless trench coat $4,640 (ssense.com) Prada pink dress Jil Sander boots
48
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
fashion: faLL
Trench coat and trousers Both Céline
50
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
elitegen.ca
Free Digital Copies
eliteGen singtao
elitegen.ca
@elitegenmag
fashion: men
Giuseppe Zanotti suit patterned velvet loafers $1,120 (neimanmarcus.com)
John Lobb Byrne suede chocolate loafers US$1,250 (mrporter.com)
52
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Gucci Jordaan GG velvet loafers $870 (holtrenfrew.com)
閒而不懶的 Loafers
Laid-back loafers
Slip-on shoes have never been so popular. But caring for them is essential Story | Simon Au & Timothy Lo Photography | Ray Tang 無綁帶款式設計的loafers向有「懶佬鞋」之 稱,實際並不是為貪方便而設。「Loaf」本意指閒逸 的生活方式,loafers的對象正是一群追求擁有自在 生活態度的人,手工不但不比其他鞋款差,製作還 相當認真講究。
Tod’s city gommino loafers in suede US$625 (tods.com, US only)
據說loafers是挪威漁民在休漁期打發時間衍 生出來的小玩意。直至三十年代,美國百年鞋廠 G.H. Bass正式推出世界第一雙loafers,並以 挪威語Weejuns來命名,特色是在鞋頭位 置縫製嘴唇形孔的橫間小袋,方便放 置硬幣來撥公眾電話和乘公車, 大受學生歡迎,成為學院風 的重要配搭單品。
The word loafer when applied to a person is not all too flattering. But when referring to the classic shoe, its laid-back, casual style is unmistakable. Loafers are said to have their origin with Norwegian fishermen, who made them as a pastime during non-fishing seasons. By the 1930s, American heritage shoe factory G.H. Bass officially introduced loafers to the world, naming them in Norwegian, Weejuns. And that signature slotted strip of leather on the instep to hold coins gave birth to the penny loafer. An instant hit, they fast became an absolute necessity amongst the preppy set.
Church’s polished Binder loafers
Bottega Veneta Nero Intrecciato calf loafers
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
53
fashion: men
1
2
5
6
1 鞋油
2 貂鼠油
膏狀的鞋油,一般用作滋潤和 修護皮革,防止皮鞋因乾燥而 出現龜裂;深啡色或黑色鞋油 亦有補色、修補刮痕的功用。
Shoe cream A creamy solution for nourishing and repairing leather, to prevent drying and cracking. Dark brown or black shoe oil can reverse discolouration and hide scratch marks.
54
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
多用於過分乾裂的皮鞋,以經 過提煉的動物油脂為皮革進行 「急救」,重現光澤。但由於質 地黏𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉𥹉
Mink oil A refined animal fat that can be used as first-aid for badly cracked shoes. The sticky stuff should be used for emergency repair only.
7
3 皮革清潔劑
4 鞋蠟
擦鞋前用作清潔皮鞋表面,洗 去污跡和塵埃,性質溫和,不 會傷害皮革。
完成全部擦鞋步驟後才使用, 為皮鞋表面打一層蠟質保護 層,讓鞋子增添光澤,防止刮 花及損壞。
Leather cleaner A gentle pre-shining agent to rid the surface of marking and dirt without harming the leather.
Shoe polish Used as the last step of the shoe-shining process to add a protective sheen.
3
4
Gucci在1953年將loafers加上 horsebit馬銜鏈金屬鞋扣,掀起一陣 「horsebit loafers」時尚熱潮,近年被品 牌創意總監Alessandro Michele再次捧到 主流。還有融合流蘇與傳統設計的tassel loafers及駕駛汽車專用的driving loafers等 等。Loafers的皮革比一般皮鞋柔軟,對於 腳掌比外國人較闊的亞洲人來說,會穿得 相對舒適。
Even Gucci long ago established a fresh interpretation of the loafer. In 1953 it added a metal horsebit, which pretty much became a Gucci signature, revived again in recent years by creative director Alessandro Michele.
百年英國皮革品牌John Lobb以充滿 彈性技術製成的Goodyear無縫貼邊縫製 鞋履,令鞋履更為輕盈;Berluti的皮鞋則 採用經專利技術Patina處理的Venezia皮 革,所以會呈現獨特的深淺色調;Tod’ s 的鞋底由橡膠豆豆及高質牛皮組合而 成,舒適之餘,酒紅色鞋身更見奢華; 而Church’ s的小窩釘、Giuseppe Zanotti 交錯的黑藍菱格、Gucci的monogram及 Bottega Venenta經典編織皮革都滿足了 追求玩味或視覺效果的男士。
Other companies like British heritage brand John Lobb developed the Goodyear technique to make lighter, more flexible and more supple shoes. And the super luxury leather goods brand Berluti applies its patented technique to treat Venezia leather to give all its shoes a two-tone patina.
皮鞋保養的二三事 皮鞋保養是一門學問,有著多種保養 用具和產品,是以特別請來皮鞋店HOAX 的店長James講解當中需注意事項。 首先,皮鞋必須放在乾爽通風的位 置,可放置吸濕劑防止皮革發霉。由於濕 氣會使皮革軟化,因此應在鞋子裡放置鞋 撐,以免鞋形垮掉。James又提到若皮鞋 濕了,鞋撐更是不可缺,藏起來前亦應先 自然風乾;若強行用風筒烘乾,可能會造 成皮革乾裂,再穿時就更容易破掉。 James同時建議一至兩星期便擦皮 鞋一次,以保持皮鞋乾淨。因為皮革是有 機物,需要細緻保養。擦鞋時刷上透明的 鞋油,再用馬毛刷用力擦拭,讓當中的油 分滲入皮革表面細孔,保持亮麗和色澤。 打蠟則可視乎個人喜好,擦上鞋蠟時,可 用磨光布沾一點水,打磨出來的蠟面會更 亮;喜歡皮鞋亮得像照鏡般,可以選用寫 有「Mirror Gloss」或「High Shine Gloss」的 鞋蠟。
5 毛刷
6 磨光布
Today there are myriad styles of loafers that include tassel loafers and even driving loafers. And the mocassin style made with soft supple leathers make them appealing to Asians who tend to have wider feet.
Tod’s, too, and its iconic rubber pebble outsole, combines soft calfskins to its a luxurious line of moccasins. Church’s studs, Giuseppe Zanotti’s black and-blue checks, Gucci’s monogram and Bottega Veneta’s classic woven leather all offer their own versions of the slip-on shoe.
PrOTECT yOUr sHOEs shoe maintenance is a discipline and requires special tools. The first rule is to store shoes in airy places, or use dehumidifying agents to stave off mildew. Humidity softens leather, so shoe trees are a must to keep shoes in shape, especially when they become wet. They must be completely dry before being put away, but don’t try using hair-dryers because they will cause the leather to crack when the shoes are put on again. some suggest shining shoes once every week or two. As leather is organic, it needs care. Use colourless shoe oil and brush vigorously with a horse-hair brush to get the oil into the leather’s pores. This will maintain the shine and colour. Waxing is another option. When waxing, moisten the polishing cloth with water to enhance the effect. Use wax products labelled as “Mirror Gloss” or “High shine” to achieve a glossy shine.
7 鞋撐
皮鞋保養必備。能夠擦走鞋面上的塵埃 和污跡,同時能讓有色的鞋油擦得更均 勻。一般皮鞋宜以馬毛擦拭,因質地柔 軟不會刮花皮革。
多為纖維密度較高的絨面布,於補色、 修復時使用;若家中沒有絨布,亦可剪 開舊T恤或絲襪代替。
於擦鞋或收藏時放在鞋中,防止皮鞋變 形,尤其在鞋子濕水後皮革軟化,更需 要鞋撐定形。
Brush A must-have to remove dirt and ensure an even application of coloured shoe oil. Horse-hair brushes are recommended; they are soft and won’t damage the leather.
Polishing cloth soft tightly woven fabrics for colouring or repairs. If you are the frugal type, consider cutting up that old T-shirt or even pantyhose.
Shoe tree Insert these into shoes during polishing or while in storage to help retain their shape, especially when shoes are wet.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
55
Runway: Louis Vuitton Men
56
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
天橋無不散之騷
A wild life
Louis Vuitton gets back to nature Story | 冰汪 早於今年一月中的巴黎男裝周期間,Louis Vuitton宣佈藝術總監 Kim Jones將會離開,令這場秋冬騷成為一場事先張揚的farewell表演。 Kim Jones以 「Overview」 為主題,令人聯想這是他在LV的總結,但 只要看到第一套衣服上的landscape鳥瞰圖案,便明白是語帶雙關。據 聞這些非常National Geographic的圖案,是Kim Jones親自坐直升機在 肯雅上空拍攝的。選擇到肯雅,因為生於英倫的他,小時候長居非洲南 美(包括肯雅)。七年前加入LV的首個系列,同樣包括大量非洲及肯雅 元素,來到旅程完結,亦以回歸肯雅作終點。 打頭陣出場的look 1,貫徹多年的戶外風,飄逸photo print風褸, 結合了monogram暗花,裡面是灰色tee與短褲,襯上landscape圖案 leggings與行山鞋,很山系。最別致是掛在頸上的survival necklace, 扣上四個分別為鎖、軍刀、哨子及鈎的求生charms。 Kim Jones說告別系列的重點是能夠千變萬化,讓布料陪伴身軀周 遊列國,男模身上以earth tone為主。最突出是幾件螢光衣服,螢光黃 與螢光橙,分別以樽領毛衣、外套lining及其他小物姿態現身,畫龍點 睛,令整個系列sharp醒不少。 在LV的漫天世界,monogram永遠是創作軸心,這次Kim Jones 炮製了不少精采產品:先為monogram調好布料色調,淺墨綠色的稱 為Monogram Titanium、黑灰光面的是Monogram Eclipse Glaze、 招牌啡色光面的是Monogram Glaze,還有以monogram設計的小巧 Messenger PM bag,平日逛街大小適中剛好。
Artistic Director Kim Jones is exiting Louis Vuitton so it’s only fitting for his last collection to be titled Overview. And if you think the collection looks they jumped off the pages of National Geographic, you’d be right. Jones’ inspiration came from photographs he took from a helicopter flying across Kenya. Seven years ago, when Jones first joined LV, his début collection included many African and Kenyan elements. Now at the end of his journey at LV, he returns to Kenya. The rugged outdoors figures big for fall, including landscape-patterned leggings and hiking shoes for a real mountain look. The most striking element is the survival charm necklace with a lock, a Swiss army knife, a whistle and a hook. The main point of the farewell collection is about versatility. The fabric that accompanies one’s travel around the world includes mostly earth tones with a dash of eye-catching fluorescent pieces in yellow and orange. And as every season the LV monogram can’t be missed.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
57
Runway: Louis Vuitton Men Monogram titanium Messenger PM bag $2,430
Brass and calf leather survival necklace $1,960
Camo blouson parka jacket $4,450
Monogram Eclipse Glaze raincoat $14,600
Fluorescent yellow cashmere chunky rib slit roll neck sweater $2,470
58
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Monogram Eclipse Glaze LV outland ankle boots $2,540
the Beauty pages
喚醒明眸神采
WAKE-UP CALL Advanced Génifique Eye by Lancôme awakens the eye area and visibly combats the 10 signs of aging Story | Clarice Yik
眼睛是臉上最先獲注目的部位,反映情感和個性。為保留 女士們活潑亮麗的面部表情,Lanc ô me特別重新研製及調配出 Advanced Génifique Eye全新嫩肌活膚眼霜。 Advanced Génifique Eye全新嫩肌活膚眼霜煥發眼部肌膚神 采,對抗十大衰老和疲勞跡象,掃走膚質欠佳、淡斑、膚色不均 勻、欠缺緊緻度和彈性、缺乏光澤、黑眼圈、浮腫、粗糙和無精 打采。新配方有效紓緩和亮白肌膚,效果彷如沉睡一晚後神清氣 朗般。 Lancôme研究中心從雙歧和酵母中精心挑選的益生菌成分, 經過發酵、分解和過濾,為皮膚帶來最大益處。全新嫩肌活膚眼 霜,高效發揮活性益生菌成分,成效有目共睹。 當中的Light-Smooth技術在皮膚表面形成遮蓋保護膜,能捕 捉水分子,具即時保濕和重組特性,即時紓緩肌膚,締造柔軟絲 滑感,完全滿足眼部四周肌膚的需求,撫平和軟化皮膚,延緩初 老跡像或疲勞外觀。 早上塗抹Advanced Génifique Eye Light-Pearl精華,以打圈 動作按摩眼部四周,輔以高效珍珠形按摩塗抹器,打開並增亮眼 部區域,減少浮腫。晚上塗抹眼霜,讓眼部肌膚獲得充分休息修 護。於周末再用Advanced Génifique Eye Light-Pearl精華眼膜, 只須敷15分鐘,活成成分即滲入肌膚,提亮眼部四周區域。
Eyes are the first thing people notice; they reflect a person’s emotions and give insight into their personality. To help women preserve the vibrant expressiveness of their face, Lancôme has reinvented its eye contour cream. Advanced Génifique Eye awakens the eye area and visibly combats the 10 signs of aging: texture, imprints, uneven complexion, firmness, elasticity, lack of luminosity, lack of freshness, lack of softness, dark circles and puffiness. Smoothing and brightening, its new formula is like a sleep concentrate in a single application. 15ml | $83
Key to the performance of the new Advanced Génifique Eye is the astonishing power of the iconic active ingredients of the serum: probiotic fractions. Lancôme’s Research has worked on carefully-selected probiotic fractions from a bifidus and a yeast, which have been fermented, fragmented and filtered to bring the best possible benefits to the skin. To optimise the efficacy of Advanced Génifique Eye, its texture base was also reinvented thanks to Light-Smooth technology that forms a veiling, protective film on the surface of the skin (capable of capturing water molecules, it has instant moisturising and restructuring properties), bringing it immediate comfort, and a soft and silky feel that fully targets the needs of the eye area, smoothing and softening the skin. Its properties make it an ideal ally for combating the appearance of the first signs or fatigue and aging. Adopt the full Advanced Génifique Eye routine for an ever fresher, brighter and rested eye area. In the morning, use the Advanced Génifique Eye LightPearl serum to combat puffiness. Used with circular movements around the eyes, its high-performance, pearl-shaped massaging applicator opens up and brightens the eye area and diminishes puffiness. In the evening, apply the new Advanced Génifique Eye cream to the eye contour for a fully rested eye area on waking. On weekends, apply the Advanced Génifique Eye Light-Pearl mask for 15 minutes, the time needed for the active ingredients to infuse into the skin and unveil a bright eye area.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
59
the Beauty pages
為秋冬添一抹完美
Lip service
Giorgio Armani introduces a new generation of matte in 18 striking shades Story | Sidney Chao Giorgio Armani帶領潮流,推 出Rouge D’Armani Matte絲滑啞亮 唇膏,以突破性配方技術,將艷麗 色調及細緻質感合而為一,輕輕一 抹,即為朱唇添上完美色彩,色澤 矚目持久,感覺舒適自然,完美雅 緻締造誘惑魅力。 全新的Rouge D’Armani Matte 系列,重塑啞亮概念,蘊含色素比 一般啞亮唇膏多出50%,奧秘在於 配方所含的乾爽質材,減低油脂成 分,加重色彩濃度及吸油物料。
明顯效果 ‧極盡啞緻 - 高濃度色素締造 啞緻亮麗色彩,均勻點綴櫻唇,明 艷色調完美遮蓋原本唇色。 ‧持久舒適 - 配方中含有20% 光線散射凝膠,能完美分散光線, 令唇色柔和豐潤,櫻唇嫩滑飽滿。 ‧一抹亮麗 - 獨特配方包含柔 膚分子、酯類精華油及荷荷巴油, 相輔相成,造就絲滑細緻觸感。 Rouge D’Armani Matte外形以 品牌標誌性的紅、黑為主調,鮮明 俐落的流暢線條設計,配合經典的 磁石開合。 而從精巧自然的裸色、粉紅、 橙至奪目的紅色四大色系,調配出 18種濃淡不同色調唇膏,全面照顧 各種妝扮需要。
Rouge D’Armani Matte | $46
60
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
In nudes, pinks, oranges and powerful reds, and in defiance of convention, Rouge D’Armani Matte pushes the limits with a groundbreaking formula: intense, long-lasting colour with an extreme matte finish—all in a single stroke. Renowned for its matte lipstick expertise, Giorgio Armani unveils a new makeup accomplice thanks to a micronized pigment process. Containing up to 50 per cent more pigments than a traditional matte lipstick, the secret to the Rouge D’Armani Matte formula lies in the amount of dry materials it uses. Giorgio Armani Beauty laboratories were able to limit the amount of oil in the formula, optimizing pigments and oil-absorbing fillers. INTENSE MATTE: the high concentration of pigments takes matte to new heights, dressing lips in more even, extreme colour and maximum coverage. LASTING COMFORT: the easywear matte finish comes courtesy of a newly optimized filler-to-oil ratio that does not feel dry. A light-diffusing gel comprises 25 per cent the formulation. It diffuses and scatters the light for a rich matte finish that looks smooth and supple, not dry. IN ONE STROKE: an emollient paste agent, ester oils and a hydrogenated jojoba oil make for a creamy, glideon application. A unique formula, the addition of spherical powders delivers a lip-filling effect on the surface for seductively smooth lips every time.
煥膚之道
The science of skin regeneration Story | Sidney Chao
護膚問答─Neostrata公司研發部總監李雅玲博士 (Yaling Lee, PhD) SKIN CARE Q&A with Yaling Lee, PhD, Director of R&D NeoStrata Company
問:什麼材料的護膚產品最是適合亞裔人士的皮膚? 答:亞裔人士皮膚老化的最大問題是皮膚色澤、色斑和黑 點,此外是彈性和緊緻度減退,部分人士更會對一般皮膚護理產 品過敏。 Neostrata開發了幾種針對上述情況的成分,包括葡萄糖胺 (NeoGlucosamine)、葡萄糖酸內酯(Gluconolactone)和仿生酸 (Bionic acids)、這些成分有多種抗衰老功效,令皮膚重現光澤、 改善色斑、黑點、灰黃及皮膚質感。臨床研究顯示,不同膚質人 士,包括亞裔,每日使用含有Neostrata結合抗衰老技術研發成分 的護膚產品,效果相當顯著。 問:如何配合使用產品,獲取最佳效果? 答:理想的抗衰老護膚程序包括潔面霜、精華素、含防曬效 果的日用潤膚霜、夜用潤膚霜及眼部滋潤霜,此外可選擇果酸去 角質煥膚液或者仿生抗衰老面霜,每周用一至三次,應對特殊護 膚需要;對於特定部位及問題,例如頸項等,可採用針對性的治 療方法。 問:對於20至50歲或更成熟年齡的亞裔女性,最好的護理程 序為何? 答:年青皮膚常見問題為色斑、黯啞膚質及幼紋等, NeoStrata Enlighten line系列可以解決問題,系列包含保養整個臉 部的產品,還有對抗斑點及去角質的治療產品。隨著年齡增長, 皮膚會出現比較明顯的皺紋、緊緻度減退及出現色斑,NeoStrata Skin Active line加強抗衰老系列,提供多種抗老化功效,令皮膚 再顯年青。盡早養成每日使用抗衰老護膚產品的習慣,有助保持 青春光采。請謹記,每天都要使用有防曬功效的潤膚產品。
What ingredients work best for Asian skin? Asian aging skin concerns are primarily focused on tone, discoloration and dark spots, as well as a loss of elasticity and firmness. Some Asians can also experience a greater skin sensitivity to topical skin care products. NeoStrata has discovered several ingredients that address those concerns, including NeoGlucosamine, Gluconolactone and Bionic acids. These ingredients work on multiple antiaging benefits, including tone brightening, discoloration, dark spots, sallowness and texture. In clinical studies, using a daily regimen of skincare products containing NeoStrata’s clinically-developed ingredients along with other leading antiaging technologies, results have shown benefits on a range of skin types, including Asian skin, and have also been shown to be well tolerated. What is the optimal number of products to be used together? An optimal anti-aging skincare regimen includes a cleanser, a serum, a daytime moisturizer with SPF, a nighttime moisturizer product for overnight and an eye treatment. In addition, regimen boosters such as at-home glycolic peels or a microdermabrasion treatment, can be used one to three times a week as extra treatment for specific skin care concerns. Targeted treatments can also be added to a regimen for specific spots and problem areas such as the neck. What is the best routine for Asian skin in their 20s, 30s, 40s, 50s and beyond? Younger skin concerns typically begin with discolorations, dull skin texture and visible fine lines which the NeoStrata Enlighten line can address. NEOSTRATA’s Enlighten line consists of a fullface regimen of products with an additional spot treatment or at-home peel if needed. As the skin ages, coarse wrinkles and loss of firmness are added to discoloration concerns. The NEOSTRATA Skin Active line is a high strength anti-aging line that provides comprehensive anti-aging benefits to help make your skin look more youthful. Regular daily use of anti-aging skincare products early on can help keep skin looking young. And, remember to use a daily moisturizer with sunscreen every day. ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
61
the Beauty pages
護膚日與夜
Night and day Story | Candy Photography | Julio Miguel
要保持肌膚質素,不能單靠皮膚自身修 復機制及基本護理,還需借助護膚品作 全天候保養,才可強化皮膚的自癒功 能,維持健康狀態。
To maintain skin quality, it is not enough to rely only on the skin’s own restorative system and a basic maintenance routine. It is also necessary to use skincare products to provide protection from day to night in order to strengthen the skin’s self-healing functions and maintain the health of your skin
a
c
d
b 62
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
e
日間防護 補水、防曬、抗氧和抗污染均是 日間防護重點。長時間塗搽補水和鎖 水的面霜外,亦可選擇具抗氧化及修 護的日霜,增強肌膚自身活力。
f
Day time pRotectioN hydration, sunscreen, anti-oxidation and anti-pollution are all important areas for day time protection. in addition to continuing to use face creams that both hydrate and lock moisture in, one can also use day time lotions that have anti-oxidation and repair functions to strengthen the skin’s own vigor. a. Lancôme UV Expert Youth Shield Tone Up Milk SPF50 PA++++ 有效保護肌膚免受長波UVA和UVB的傷害, 同時阻隔污染。防汗配方更含有潤膚及珍珠 貝母成分,令皮膚更水潤和富光澤感。 With the ability to protect the skin against the harm of long wave UVA and UVB, this product also prevents against pollution. The anti-sweat formula also contains ingredients that moisturize and contain mother of pearl ingredients, which makes the skin more hydrated and luminescent. b. Guerlain Orchidée Impériale The Brightening & Perfecting UV Protector 30ml $150 (selfridges.com) 具有極高效的紫外線濾光功能,能抗污染保 護,更可過濾藍光,全方位保護皮膚免受 UVA及UVB射線的傷害。 This product contains a supremely high ability to filter out UV rays. It also offers protection against pollution and filters out blue lights, providing comprehensive protection to prevent harm from UVA and UVB rays.
h
g
晚間修復 夜間是肌膚修復的黃金時機,此時新陳 代謝速度放緩,毛孔放鬆,是吸收精華的最 佳時間。選用水分高的晚霜外,亦要塗搽滋 養面膜及精華,作全方位保護。
Night time RepaiR
f. Guerlain Abeille Royale Night Cream 30ml $130 (shoppersdrugmart.ca) 蘊含蜂蠟的晚霜,可於皮膚表面形成一層平滑保護 膜。在晚間黃金時間,能優化肌膚天然自我更新能 力。 This night cream contains beeswax, which forms a smooth protective screen over the skin’s surface. During sleep, it can enhance the skin’s natural ability to rejuvenate.
c. L’Occitane Reine Blanche Illuminating UV Shield SPF50 質感輕盈舒適,不會為皮膚造成額外負擔。 既可阻截紫外線,更有助改善膚色不勻及色 素沉澱問題。 With a light and comfortable texture, this product does not add an additional burden to the skin and it protects against UV rays as well as improves uneven skin colour and pigment deposits.
Night time is a golden opportunity for the skin to be rejuvenate. During this time, the speed of metabolism decreases and the pores relax, making it the best time to absorb essences. in addition to choosing night creams that contain high moisture, one also needs to apply nourishing masks and extracts to provide comprehensive protection.
g. Sisley Black Rose Cream Mask 60ml $200 (holtrenfrew.com) 蘊含黑玫瑰、海扇藻及錦燈籠花苞精華 ,可即時消減 皮膚疲倦的情況。面膜帶有玫瑰芳香,使用時亦有助 放鬆心神,紓解壓力。 Containing black roses, sea fan algae and calyx extract, the mask reduces weariness of the skin. It also contains rose fragrance to aid with relaxation and stress relief.
d. MTM Solar Shield Plus SPF50/PA+++ 結合高山熊果精華、維他命E及甘草酸鉀,具 防禦、抗氧化及美白等功效。其防水、防汗 配方更有長達十六小時的抗曬保護。 Combining alpine berry extract, Vitamin E and potassium glycyrrhizinate, this product has the function to protect, anti-oxidate and brighten. Its waterproof and sweatproof formula also includes a sunscreen that provides 16 hours of protection against the sun’s rays.
e. Guerlain Abeille Royale Queen’s Treatment 15ml $173 (selfridges.com) 含獨家專有的特級蜂皇漿,配合有如金色魚子的珍 貴微珠,釋放豐富的活肌能量。只需七天,便可減 退疲憊倦容,令皮膚重拾亮澤。 With patented premium grade imperial royal jelly and previous micro-beads such as golden caviar, this product releases rich vitalizing energy. In a mere seven days, the product can reduce the look of weariness and restore luminosity to the skin.
h. Clarins Multi-Active Night Cream 50ml $57 (shoppersdrugmart.ca) 針對因生活忙碌及睡眠不足而導致的細胞氧化問題, 以首創的GPS智囊科技,追蹤受氧化細胞,把具有修 復功效的起絨草萃取精華,帶到皮膚底層,有效重現 細胞活力。 This product contains a supremely high ability to filter out UV rays. It also offers protection against pollution and filters out blue lights, providing comprehensive protection to prevent harm from UVA and UVB rays.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
63
the beauty pages: scents
火紅誘惑
The hunt for red November
For the first time since its debut in 1921, the legendary perfume will be in a fiery red bottle Story | Leslie Yip
黑白配或許是Chanel最經典的顏色組合,但亦 曾見她運用不同層次、深淺及鮮艷程度的紅色。深 紅、石榴石或紅寶石的紅,用於天鵝絨、羊毛厚布 或雪紡,製成西裝外套、皮包又或是唇膏,紅色是 永遠的搶眼奪目。 對於香水控來說本月是屏息以待的大日子,因 為香水中的經典Chanel’ s N° 5將於今個月推出紅色 限量特別版。這是香水自1921年面世以後,首次換 上魅惑的火紅瓶身。 紅色特別版香水會有三種濃度:淡香 水(L’ E a u )、 淡 香 精( E a u d e P a r f u m )及 香 精 (Parfum),淡香水的濃度最淡,然後是淡香精。 100ml的紅色玻璃瓶單是放在化妝桌已經十分突 出。不過最具收藏價值的肯定是紅色Baccarat水晶 瓶的900ml香精,每瓶都有編號,全球限量55瓶, 相信會吸引香水收藏迷爭相入手。
Black and white may be Chanel’s most classic colour combo, but she explored red in all its gradation, vibrancy and depth. Whether crimson, garnet or ruby, teamed with velvet, tweed or chiffon, for a suit, a handbag or a lipstick, red has always made a statement. Now, perfume collectors have been holding their breath since they caught wind about a very unique limited edition of Chanel’s N°5 to be released on November 5 at all Chanel beauty counters: the Red Edition. For the very first time since its debut in 1921, the legendary perfume will be produced in a fiery red bottle. It will be available in three formats: L’Eau, Eau de Parfum and Parfum. The L’Eau is the lightest version, followed by the Eau de Parfum. They will be offered in a 100ml mass manufactured red glass bottle (pictured far right) that is sure to stand out on your dressing table. But if you are looking for something extra special, opt for the Parfum in a handcrafted and numbered 900ml bottle made of red Baccarat crystal. Limited to just 55 bottles worldwide, it is expected to be one of the most sought-after editions of the perfume.
64
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
製作Baccarat水晶需要有耐性、精準及專業工藝。工序由碳酸鉀混合物 的溶點達到攝氏1450度便展開,之後熾熱的琉璃溶液便可進行吹製或模 製。工匠會親手為每件製成品打磨,然後進行雕刻、人手蝕刻及鍍金。 Making a Baccarat crystal piece takes patience, precision and expertise. It all starts when the sand potash mixture reaches 1450 degrees Celsius. The hot glass infusion is then collected to be free blown or molded. Each piece is polished and finished by hand, and then enhanced by a combination of engraving, manual etching and gilding.
Red L’Eau 100ml | $198 Red Eau de Parfum 100ml | $198 Red Body Oil 200ml | $96 N° 5由Chanel女士親自設計,線條簡單的方形瓶身及如寶石切割般的八角形瓶 蓋,跟當時流行的浮誇水晶香水瓶大相徑庭,更被喻為是世界上最具代表性 的香水瓶之一。今次是首次推出紅色瓶身。 Lovingly designed by Mademoiselle Chanel herself, the simple geometric lines of the rectangular bottle and the faceted octagonal stopper was a radical departure from the ornate crystal bottles popular in those days. It is considered one of the most iconic perfume bottles in the world. This will be the first time it is produced in red. ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
65
TECH
移動影院
Royole Moon
Get an unimaginable cinema-like experience right at home Story | Norman
底部有可調節開關,即使達近視700度或遠視200度,也可不戴 眼鏡觀看。 Two optical tweaks from a pair of thumbwheels beneath the visor allow most users to fine-tune their focal points and skip their prescription eyeglasses.
以往的頭載式屏幕產品給人很是佔位 置的印象,Royole Moon卻打破常規,使用 了全球首創可折疊設計,折疊後可將體積減 少一半,能直接收進抽屜中。所構建的「如 影隨行」全新觀影方式,具有800英寸3D弧 形巨幕,可自由調節的螢幕尺寸,全新的 柔性電子操控系統Moon OS,可自動識別 2D/3D內容資源,同時配備頂級有源降噪耳 機,有效隔絕外界干擾,實現影院級觀影感 覺。即使安坐家中,也能享受到電影院的效 果。顯示方面則使用了兩個1,080P高清屏 幕,可達到3,000PPI,對比度超過一萬比 一,支援24-bit顏色。 為了讓用家可以更輕鬆將資料傳送, 隨機附送具儲存、外接加充電功能的Moon Box,支援micro USB讀取外部硬碟影音資 源,更配備HDMI高清介面,可外接其他遊 戲機如Xbox、PS4或電腦等,即使家中的 電視被家人佔用,也能於Royole Moon中暢 快打機!
Royole Moon內建兩個1,080P高清屏幕,猶如電影院般的體驗! Royole Moon contains dual 1080P high resolution displays, providing a stunning theatre-quality visual experience.
66
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
難怪Royole Moon 3D移動影院,獲得 2018年度德國設計大獎(German Design Award)的娛樂類別大獎。
SPECS 產品尺寸 Headset dimensions: 215×220×223mm 屏幕大小 Screen size: 800-inch curved screen at 20 meters (adjustable screen size) 解像度 Resolution: 1,920×1,080 (×2) 對比度 Contrast: >10,000:1 色彩模式 Color mode: 24-bit RGB 刷新率 Refresh rate: 60Hz 記憶體 Ram: 2GB 內置儲存 Internal storage: 32GB 電池容量 Battery capacity: 6,000mAh 電池可用時間 Battery life: 5 hours of video playback 電池充電時間 Charging time: 2 hours 售價 price: $1,499 royole.com
Winner of the German Design Award 2018 in the Excellent Product Design Entertainment category, Royole Moon fuses cutting edge 3D glasses and high quality headphone material and design, achieving an unimaginable cinemalike experience right at home. The dual displays are AMOLEDs that deliver 1,080p resolution to each eye, via a claimed 3,000 pixels per inch of device size. The unit plays both 2D and 3D content, automatically detecting the type. It is wifi capable and includes a browser that lets you connect to your streaming services, and it has an HDMI input for attaching to traditional video source components and game consoles, or to mobile devices via an adapter (sold separately). For audio playback, the integrated closed-back headphones use 1.6-inch dynamic polyethylene (mylar) drivers and are assisted by active noise cancelling whenever the unit is switched on. With breakthrough industrial design, the headband can be folded into half the size, which fits nicely into a standard under-table drawer. The headband, earcups and the visor ring that surrounds your eyes are well padded and encased in a durable leather-like material. To provide ventilation and prevent fogging, there are air vents in the visor and its cushion is perforated. Construction is mostly of high-impact molded plastic, but the Moon has a solid feel and metal parts are used in key areas of stress, such as the click-action sliders that fit the headband and visor to your face.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
67
automobiles
豪華新境界
Wow factor
When you talk about luxury cars, the Lexus brand has to be included in any conversation Story | Lorne Drury (Metroland Media)
68
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
凌志過去憑藉LS與全球頂級的豪華轎車展開激烈競爭,雄 心壯志進軍世界市場。但近年LS的銷量有所下降,而德國的豪 華轎車如奧迪A8、平治S-Class和寶馬7系等則重奪它們的市場 份額。 為此,凌志重新設計2018年款的LS,增添了更多的魅力和 驚喜,令近期平淡的市場牽起了驚艷讚歎之聲。 2018年款的LS標誌著凌志邁進第五代,提供更佳的靈活性 和舒適性這兩個豪華汽車必備的條件。 我們有幸試駕採用全混合動力系統的LS 500h。這車配備一 台3.5公升V6汽油引擎和兩個電動馬達,混合使用時會產生354 匹馬力,凌志稱之為多級混合動力系統。 如果不喜歡混能車的話,可以選擇有415匹馬力的雙渦輪增 壓V6引擎。有趣的是,LS不像歐洲對手般有V8引擎供選擇。 我們所試駕的LS 500h添加了行政套件(Executive Package),功能多到難以盡錄。其中最值得注意的是電熱 盤、氣壓懸掛系統、20吋合金輪轂、有制熱和制冷功能的真皮 按摩座椅,28向電動調節的司機及前排乘客座椅,甚至後排座 椅也可前後移動和向後仰,只需按一下按鈕即可伸展成為睡椅。
The Lexus LS was a sales leader in Canada and the U.S. when it debuted nearly three decades ago, ready to take on the world and compete head to head with the best luxury sedans around. But in recent years, sales of the LS have slid somewhat and German rivals — like the Audi A8, Mercedes-Benz S-Class and BMW 7 series — have regained significant market share. So, with a redesign of the LS for 2018, Lexus has added more pizzazz and excitement to the car, bringing in a bit of the ‘wow’ factor that may have been lacking in recent years. The 2018 model marks the start of the fifth generation of the LS, sitting on Lexus’s new ultra-rigid global luxury platform that offers better agility and comfort — two of the benchmarks of a luxury automobile. We were fortunate to test the LS 500h that offers a full hybrid powertrain, featuring a 3.5-litre V6 gasoline engine combined with two electric motors. In combination, they produce 354 horsepower. Lexus calls this its Multi Stage Hybrid System. For those who don’t want to go the hybrid route, the other engine choice is a twin-turbo V6, generating 415 horsepower. Interestingly, unlike most of the European competition, there is no V8 engine available.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
69
automobiles
正如剛才提及過的,重新設計的LS外型更矚目。 它的特色主軸格柵很有性格,要麼你很喜歡它,要麼 你很討厭它。 從側面來看,LS的時尚輪廓看上去似轎跑車,估 不到內部的空間原來這麼寬敞。它的正面很有霸氣, 格柵兩側配有三個LED車頭燈和LED日間行車燈,而 車尾也是採用LED燈。 LS 500h首次採用專為高性能豪華汽車而設的新 型多級混合動力系統。凌志的混合動力技術處於世界 的領導地位,而這個新的系統有著飛躍的發展,兩種 引擎的合體,由靜止狀態加速至時速100公里僅需5.5 秒。耗油量為10.3 / 7.6升/ 100公里(市內/高速公路) , 燃油效率領先同級汽車。這款混合動力車採用自排模 擬換檔控制模式,搭載十前速變速箱。 無論你選用哪一種動力傳動系統駕駛,LS都會以 全輪驅動行駛──這個受歡迎的功能是用來應付加拿 大難以預測的天氣的。 LS的內廂確實從頭至尾都很奢華和漂亮。精湛的 工藝,巧妙地打造出感性的內裝。華麗的皮革,層疊 的木質裝飾,日式燈籠氛圍的照明,讓人感官愉悅。
70
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Our LS 500h came with the Executive Package that includes a list of features longer than your arm. Most notable are a heated steering wheel, air suspension, 20-inch alloy wheels, heated and cooled aniline leather massage seats, a 28-way adjustable power driver’s and front passenger’s seat, and even a rear seat that moves fore and aft and reclines with an extendable ottoman at the touch of a button. As mentioned earlier, the redesigned LS has a much more eyecatching look. The love-it-or-hate-it Lexus signature spindle grille works on this model, in my opinion. From the side, the sleek silhouette has a coupe-like appearance that belies the spaciousness inside. The front look is aggressive and planted, with a grille that’s flanked by triple LED headlamps, along with LED daytime running lights. LED tail-lamps light up the back. The LS 500h marks the first use of the new multi-stage hybrid powertrain, designed specifically for high-performance luxury automobiles. Lexus is the world leader in hybrid technology and this new system takes a leap forward, combining a 5.5-second, 0-100 km/h sprint time with class-leading fuel efficiency, rated at 10.3/7.6 L/100 km city/ highway. This hybrid has a simulated shift control pattern that has the feel of a 10-speed gearbox. And no matter which powertrain you choose, you’ll be getting all-wheel drive—a welcome feature in Canada, with its unpredictable weather patterns.
凌志2018年款LS 500h一覽
Lexus LS 500h at-a-glance
車身款式:五座位四門豪華轎車。 驅動方式:前置引擎,四輪驅動。 引擎:3 .5公升V6引擎,搭配兩個電動馬達和一組鋰離子電池 (354匹淨馬力),搭載多段式變速混能系統。 行李箱容量:430公升。 耗油量:市內:10.3/7.6 公升/100公里 市內/高速公路。 售價:139,852元,包括2,025元運費及交貨前檢驗費用。 優點:重新設計的LS 500h外型遠勝舊款。 缺點:沒有V8引擎供選擇可能令一些潛在買家卻步。 誘人之處:新的凌志多級油電混合動力的技術設計簡直神奇。
BODY STYLE: luxury five-passenger, four-door sedan. DRIVE METHOD: front engine, all-wheel drive. ENGINE: 3.5-litre V6 with two electric motors and a lithium ion battery (354 net horsepower) with a multi-stage hybrid system. CARGO CAPACITY: 430 litres. FUEL ECONOMY: 10.3/7.6 L per 100 km city/highway. WHAT’S BEST: The redesigned LS 500h has a much more exciting look than the outgoing model. WHAT’S WORST: Lack of a V8 might turn off some potential buyers. WHAT’S INTERESTING: The new Lexus multi-stage hybrid drive is a marvel in engineering. PRICE: $139,852, including $2,025 freight and PDI. lexus.ca
新車採用華貴的真皮,配以一流的手工,加上 舒適和超多可調節的座椅,以及最新的技術和安全功 能。此外,新的版本更加長了軸距,讓腳部的空間更 寬敞,連司機足夠容納五個人。 這輛重達2,370公斤的LS 500h,在路面行駛時 十分暢順、舒適和超級寧靜。儘管性能可能不及德國 車,但它的電動盤反應迅速,容易駕馭。 LS 500h有七種駕駛模式可供選擇,相信最多人 選擇的會是刺激的跑車或跑車+模式。在科技方面, LS 500h內置凌志安全系統+( Lexus Safety System +),包括有全球首創、具有主動轉向功能的行人探測 系統。其他高科技產品還有專為LS開發、有24個喇叭 及衛星收音機的Mark Levinson優質音響系統、Siri車 載語音控制系統、12.3吋LCD屏幕顯示器、24吋平視 顯示器(HUD) ,以及遙控輕觸式和語音識別的導航系 統。 雖然我試駕的是2018年款,但因為是重新設計 的車型,所以預期2019年款不會有重大改動。 簡而言之,新款LS 500h是一輛豪華的旗艦轎 車。它優雅時尚,結合最先進的混能動力技術和世界 一流的性能,有很多值得你喜歡的地方。
But it’s inside that the luxury and beauty of the LS really shines through. The craftsmanship is superb, designed to delight the senses with sumptuous leather, layered herringbone wood trim and ambient lighting reminiscent of Japanese lanterns. Fit and finish are first rate, with comfortable and ultra-adjustable seats and the latest in technology and safety features. And with its new longer wheelbase, there is enough legroom for up to five occupants. On the road, the LS 500h is smooth, comfortable and ultra-quiet. But make no mistake: this is a heavy car, coming in at 2,370 kilograms. Nevertheless, it handles well with responsive electric power steering, although the outright performance may not be quite up to the best the Germans have to offer. There are seven drive modes to choose from, but most drivers will likely opt for Sport or Sport+ for a more engaged feel. From a technology standpoint, the LS 500h comes with a Lexus Safety System+, featuring the world’s first intuitive pedestrian detection with active steering. Among the other high-tech items are a 24-speaker Mark Levinson premium audio system with XM satellite radio, SIRI eyes-free, a 12.3-inch LCD display, a 24-inch head-up display and a navigation system with Lexus remote touch interface and voice recognition. I tested the 2018 model, but I expect the 2019 to be relatively unchanged, since this was a dramatically new design. In short, the new LS 500h is a luxury flagship sedan that has grace and style, combined with state-of-the-art hybrid technology and world-class performance. There’s a lot to like here.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
71
Home: design
優雅簡約主義 Dramatic minimalism It’s all in the Zen
Story | Livian Wu Photography | Ema Peter
簡約主義的最大的挑戰就是要做到「每 樣物件均必須是最愛的」,同時亦有其存在 目的。去掉五花八門的擺設雜物,只保留 最必要的部分,力求精簡。 設計師Sahra Samnani以簡約主義, 配合乾淨俐落的線條主理溫哥華兩所房屋 的設計,實踐如何以精簡而又優質的生活 方式達到內心的安寧與富足。
72
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
The biggest challenge with minimalism is getting straight to the point with “musthaves” yet ensuring that all elements are streamlined and functional. And that is exactly what designer Sahra Samnani did for two Vancouver homes. The goal was clean and simple patterns in order to achieve a calm and content living style.
簡化布局就能突出空 間本身的質感,給人 開揚、明快的感覺。 The space exudes an expansive feel.
將「簡單就是美」這簡約主義要旨套用到 設計美學的,表表者正是著名建築師Ludwig Mies van der Rohe。二次世界大戰之後,美國 社會傾向回歸平和節約,連帶設計和建築風格 也受影響。Rohe主張摒棄浪費浮誇的樣式,無 論是視覺或實際用途方面均力主簡約和講求功 能性時。當然,把簡約主義發揮得好,也不是 容易的事。 位於溫哥華Kits Point的這所房屋,就是利 用極簡潔的線條達到高效能的設計概念。加上 結合建築的採光優勢—巨大的窗戶、天幕以及 玻璃門把自然光引進屋內,使空間更為寬敞明 亮。 連接二樓的樓梯也是精萃所在。運用富自 然感的白花紋花旗松木地板,輕巧的質地配以 延伸的長線條,散發出原始的氣息。再加上明 亮的白色牆身及隱藏的燈光效果,讓空間散發 活力和朝氣。 雖說是簡約,空間也不會空蕩得只見白 牆。如廚房的設計就選用了黑色檯面,營造出 安靜柔和的氛圍。廚櫃則延伸至天花,大大增 加存放空間。
去掉不必要的物件, 只保留最需要的,以 求達到最佳平衡。 Maintaining only the essential achieves the ultimate balance of minimalism.
House: Kits Point this house leverages extremely simple designs and concepts. the end result is a living space that feels expansive with the use of skylights, massive windows and glass doors. We’ve all heard the adage "less is more". And that mantra, adopted by famed architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, couldn’t ring more true when it comes to minimalism. the design movement began in post WWii American art before being translated into design and architecture in response to the chaos of urban life. According to Wikipedia, Van de Rohe’s idea was to create an impression of extreme simplicity whereby every element and detail would serve multiple visual and functional purposes. For example, designing a floor to also serve as the radiator. But achieving that simple uncomplicated concept isn’t all that easy. the stairs leading to the second floor are an unmistakable focal point. the use of lightcoloured pine hardwood flooring combined with long wood trim produces a relaxing calm with an air of nature. A huge white wall and hidden lighting makes the space exude with energy and vitality.
屋外的花園景觀同樣採簡約 設計原則。 One of the fundamental principles of modern design is simply, simplicity.
廚房使用白色作為主 色,適當加以深色的 傢俬,也與電器的亮 面質感互相呼應。 The mainly white kitchen is sharply contrasted with a dark countertop and glossy appliances.
But maintaining the minimal theme doesn’t have to mean boring. A two-tone kitchen with a black countertop generates drama on a mega scale, with practical cabinets extending all the way to the ceiling for plenty of storage.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
73
Home: design
採用單一色彩,突出 整體的簡約感覺。 A singular colour palette compounds a calming feel of simplicity.
74
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
靠牆的長凳設計,在宴 請親朋好友時大派用場。 A long bench against the wall provides extra seating, especially for big house parties.
古蹟+現代
HistoRicAL House
位於北溫哥華的另一所房屋,前身為一 所古蹟建築,設計師融入先進的設計,凸顯出 最純粹的現代風格基調。
samnani incorporates advanced modern design components to amplify contemporary minimalism in this north Vancouver historical building.
戶主鍾愛藝術品,房屋的入口及飯廳因 而變身為畫廊,展示屋主收藏的畫作。設計師 溫馨提示:選擇藝術品作點綴時,切忌花樣 過多,免得影響簡約設計的整體效果。
the owner expressed his passion for art by displaying his collection like a gallery at the main entrance and dining room. Maintaining minimalism means avoiding décor or artwork with complicated patterns and textures.
空間的顏色以淺色調為主,同樣利用自 然光線帶出簡約主義的美學。廚房設計運用 大量白色人造石,線條簡單整潔,是現代高 端廚房的元素。
Large quantities of white artificial stones were used to achieve a neutral colour palette in the kitchen with samnani leveraging natural light and simple patterns to create a high-end modern cooking space.
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Sahra Samnani smd-interiors.ca
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
75
ChoiCe
優質生活藝術由餐具開始
A Guide to Building Your Dinnerware Collection Story | Kenson Ho & George Verdolaga Photography | Akinson's
無論你是想為家園添上點綴的色彩,或者 覺得在餐桌上欠缺一些讓客人「驚嘆」的擺 設裝飾,溫哥華的Atkinson’ s將給予你新靈 感。
Whether you’re looking for a few decorative accents, or need help furnishing your dining table with the right pieces to help you create a bigger ‘wow’ factor, there’s a place you need to visit to elevate your entertaining game: Atkinson’s of Vancouver.
Baccarat螺旋花瓶。 Spiral vase by Baccarat.
76
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
L’ Objet的Perlée 金邊餐碟。 Perlée gold dinnerware by L’Objet.
限量版德國Guaxs 「嵐山」 花瓶。 Guaxs "Arashiyama" Masterpiece Vase Limited Edition.
「當我們在35年前開業時,溫哥華在餐具方面確是選擇不 多。當時市面上大部分的產品均來自英國。現在,顧客可以選 購來自歐洲各地製造商所提供不同風格,從含蓄柔和的圖案, 以至更精緻燦爛的設計。」Atkinson’ s創立人Diane Atkinson 說道。 「無論要選購的是餐桌布、餐墊、餐具、碟子、水杯、酒 杯,或任何款客時的產品,我們均有提供,是名副其實的一站 式精品店。客人想知道使用哪一款杯子或如何正確擺設餐桌, 我們都樂意協助。更會努力確保客人在店內購物時輕鬆舒適, 不會感到有任何壓力。」 Diane亦說:「客人正改變過去終生使用同一精美瓷器餐 具的態度。現今生活忙碌的專業人士,對繼承需要細心處理的 精美瓷器,並不感興趣。其實餐具就像衣服或家具一樣,飽經 磨損後疲態畢露。若你不再需要,或是品味有變,可每隔幾年 更換一次。」
Hermès餐碟上 的設計栩栩如生。 Delicacy has brought life to the Hermès dinnerware design.
「我們亦要明白,餐具的古董價值較低,把它們出售是相 當困難的,尤其是已經過時或是需要精心保養的。人們寧願擁 有簡單或更適合他們生活方式的物品。所以應該投資優質的純 白色餐具,日常及隆重款客場合均適用,更為靈活耐用。」
“Back when we started 35 years ago, Vancouverites was starved of choices in terms of dinnerware,” offers founder Diane Atkinson. “Most of what was available in the market came from Britain. Now they have access to different styles and manufacturers from all over Europe, from subdued patterns to more elaborate designs. “We’re a one-stop shop for those who want to buy a tablecloth, placemats, cutlery, plates, glasses and anything you can think of to allow you to have a beautifully presented meal at home. If you’re wondering about what glasses to use, or how to set a table properly, we’re here to help. We try to ensure that people feel comfortable when they shop and never feel intimidated at our store.” “People used to think that their fine china would last them their entire lives, but we’ve seen that attitude change. Busy working professionals these days aren’t as interested in inheriting fine china that requires delicate handling. Dinnerware is pretty much like anything that goes through wear and tear — like clothing or furniture. These can also be replaced every few years once you no longer want them, or if your tastes have changed.
以Saint-Louis 「金薊」 花紋酒杯 盛Negroni雞尾酒,相得益彰。 The Negronni cocktail is served in a Saint-Louis "Thistle Gold" Tumbler. Christofle銀器餐具系列。 Christofle silver "Mood" Flatware setm.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
77
ChoiCe
意大利製造的Sferra床單枕套。 Sferra bed linens is made in Italy.
化繁為簡 Diane說:「以往一個家庭會準備兩套獨立瓷器餐具:一套 日常使用,另一套在特別場合使用。隨著人們生活更繁忙及居住 較小空間,大都不再展列精美瓷器作身份的象徵,與祖父母一代 有別,更傾向於只購買一套餐具,日常使用或款客皆可。所以我 們建議客人購買優質餐具後盡量享用,而非為了特殊場合才讓它 們重見天日。」
ElEVATINg Your DININg ExPErIENcE
「客人都喜歡居住在美麗家園,也很重視精湛的工藝。當他 們詢問該如何選擇好的餐具系列時,我們先會問他們屬於『傳統 主義者』還是『簡約主義者』。了解他們的生活習慣和個人品味, 有助找出他們心愛的顏色或圖案,然後展示哪些是他們應該投資 的基本產品,以及日後如何補充系列中其餘尚欠的配件。」
“People used to have two separate sets of china: one for everyday use and then another for formal occasions. As people lead busier lives and live in smaller homes, they no longer display their fine china. The current generation no longer regards dinnerware as a status symbol, like their grandparents once did.
餐具的保養和趨勢
“They’re more often inclined to buy one set of dinnerware and use that every day and for entertaining. That’s why we advise people who buy good quality dinnerware from us to use it and enjoy it rather than simply saving it for special occasions.
「有些餐具是適用於微波爐和洗碗碟機,特別是一些經精 細處理的瓷器或水晶設置。但如果選擇的餐具是有金屬飾面,還 是建議人手洗滌方為上策。也避免將這類型餐碟一隻隻上下堆 疊,最好將紙板放在碟子之間,免得堆疊一起時被刮花。」Diane 提醒道。
78
“People also need to understand that dinnerware doesn’t have the value that people think they have as antiques. They’re pretty hard to sell, especially if they’re out of style or if they’re too high maintenance. People would rather have something simple or better suited to their lifestyle. That’s why investing in good quality plain white dinnerware for everyday use, and also for more formal occasions, is a good place to start.”
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
“People who come to us like to live in beautiful homes and also value good craftsmanship,” Atkinson adds. “When they ask for advice on how to build a good dinnerware collection, we usually ask them whether they’re ‘traditionalists’ or ‘minimalists’. once they’ve revealed their lifestyle habits and their personal tastes, it becomes a simple matter of choosing what colour and/or pattern appeals to them. And then we show them what basic pieces to invest in and how to fill in the gaps in their collection over time.”
「溫哥華人比較隨意和輕鬆。我們最暢銷的商品是 Baccarat、Lalique、Saint Louis和Hermès。愈來愈多人如房產 經紀,在本店購買禮品送給他們的客戶。同時,我們亦發覺愈來 愈多人喜歡聘請廚師到會,在家中款客。至於那些不是全程都在 家款客的人士,也會在外出晚宴前,在家提供飲料和前菜小點, 又或是在外用餐後,邀請客人回家共享咖啡和甜點。所以很多人 即使住在較小的空間,仍然喜歡使用優質餐具。因為有很多場合 都會派用場。」 無論你是為特殊場合購買禮物,還是只是想為你的餐具系 列升級,莫如前往Atkinson’ s欣賞華麗的餐具和裝飾配件,讓你 下一次在家晚宴或款客時,昇華至更難忘的體驗。
Georg Jensen酒具系列。 Georg Jensen Barware.
DINNErWArE TrENDs & MAINTENANcE TIPs “some of our dinnerware can be used in convection microwave ovens and dishwashers, especially the ones that have a fine china or crystal setting, which turns off the heat that can damage them. But in cases where the dinnerware you’ve chosen has some metal finishes, you may want to think about hand-washing them. And since dishes are usually stacked one on top of the other these days, we advise putting square pieces of cardboard in between plates, as putting fine china on top of another is never a good idea, for they can get scratched. “People in Vancouver are more casual and relaxed,” Atkinson explains. “our biggest sellers are Baccarat, lalique, saint louis and Hermes. We’re seeing more and more people buying gifts at our store for their clients, like realtors. And we’ve seen a real foodie culture emerge, with more people hiring chefs to help them entertain at home. “For people who don’t fully entertain, there’s a new culture for serving drinks and appies during the early part of the evening before going out for dinner somewhere, or inviting people over after a restaurant meal to serve them coffee and dessert at home. so people do still like to entertain using quality dinnerware, even though they might live in smaller spaces.” Whether you’re buying a gift for a special occasion, or simply wanting to upgrade your dinnerware collection, a trip to Atkinson’s to see their gorgeous display of dinnerware and decorative accessories is a terrific way to discover how to make your next dinner party, or regular meal at home, a more memorable and elevated experience.
開業35年的Atkinson’ s,享負盛名。 Atkinson’s has been a trusted name for 35 years.
讓家居更添品味的精品系列。 The selection at Atkinson’s can elevate your home’s image.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
79
special home supplement
JORDANS interior獨家供應 Exclusively at Jordans Interiors Vancouver | Coquitlam | Victoria | Kelowna | Jordans.ca 80
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Connoisseur 餐具櫃 梁志天 Steve Leung
名師傢具
鑽石圖案縫合皮革櫃門,造型優雅,粒面木材質感 豐盈,鑲嵌拉絲金屬細節,配合意大利大理石桌 面,煥發典雅貴氣。 Beautiful diamond stitched leather doors, rich grained wood, inset brushed metal detailing, and Italian marble top, create a composition that evokes luxury.
High end furnitures by Steve Leung at Jordans Story | Clarice Yik 蜚聲國際的建築師、室內及產品設計師梁志天,1957年 出生於香港。他一直致力提倡現代風格,作品流露成熟、獨 特的簡約風,同時巧妙地融匯亞洲文化和藝術。 過去20年,梁志天領導多個中國和海外著名項目,譽滿 全球。 Jordans Interior獨家提供梁志天的作品、以及一系列最 時尚優雅和獨特的家居裝飾。無論在任何空間,豪華家具都 能營造出理想氛圍。Jordans提供配合屋主個性的室內設計服 務,協助他們展現個人風格。
Recognized internationally, Steve Leung is a leading architect, interior and product designer born in Hong Kong in 1957. As a dedicated contemporary-style advocate, Steve’s works reflect a sophisticated and unique character of minimalism, with skilful adoption of Asian culture and arts. Over the past 20 years, Steve has led extensive famed projects in China and overseas and received high acclaim worldwide. Jordans Interiors offers Steve Leung exclusively along with a range of the most stylish elegant and distinctive home furnishings.
Covet Sofa 沙發 華麗的弧度、寬敞的椅臂和靠背,營造輕鬆氛圍。
Our luxurious furniture creates the ideal atmosphere in ant space. We provide personalized complimentary interior design services that help make people’s homes emulate who they are.
The sumptuous curved form is inviting with generously proportioned arm and backrests creating a relaxed ambience.
Amour 床 奢華的鑽石絎縫織物床頭板,包裹皮革的床身,營 造安穩舒適和寧靜氣氛。 Luxurious diamond quilted fabric headboard, gently envelopes the leather bed base offering a calming sense of comfort and serenity.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
81
Wine not?
Sam Weaver與兒子在他的葡萄園裡。 Sam Weaver and his son in the vineyard.
最具英國味的紐西蘭酒莊
Not so odd but true New Zealand wine made by an Englishman is not as weird as you might think Story | Ivan Wong
82
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
喝著英國人在紐西蘭釀的葡萄酒,想到的是「自我感覺良 好」這六字真言。 Sam Weaver是英國人,家鄉在我們不太認識的西中部小鎮 Church Pulverbatch,當地人稱之為Churton,Sam亦以此給他 在紐西蘭的酒莊命名,Churton亦算是我們所認識的、最具英國 味的紐西蘭Marlborough酒莊。 雖然釀酒前曾在倫敦經營葡萄酒貿易多年,Sam直到今天 仍以農夫自居,1992年尋得在Waihopai與Omaka山谷間、面向 東北的200米小高原開創酒莊,全是家族遺傳的農夫天賦使然。 整個Marlborough地區都在釀造Sauvignon Blanc及Pinot Noir,有些也如Sam Weaver般採全天然Biodynamic釀製,但 Churton的Sauvignon Blanc與Pinot Noir像是有點不一樣的味 兒,前者的熱帶水果味沒那麼熱帶,後者的皮革味又沒那麼皮革 呢!或許正如他那深入淺出的細意分析:普遍Marlborough酒莊 葡萄球園都位處平原,鮮見在200米之上,加上Churton面向東 北所汲取的陽光較為含蓄,形成不慍不火,恰到好處的特質。
Sam Weaver is an Englishman from Church Pulverbatch, an obscure town of only 400 people in the country’s mid-west. The locals call it Churton and Weaver has adopted that name for his vineyard in New Zealand’s Marlborough region. Weaver was involved in wine trading for years before embarking on a career in winemaking, although he prefers to be known as a wine-grower. With the farming instincts he inherited from his ancestors, Weaver established his vineyard on a northeast-facing plateau he discovered in the valley between Waihopai and Omaka. Weaver says that by facing northeast, the sunlight is more demure, giving Churton wines a milder and more balanced essence. All wine-growers in Marlborough produce Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, and some even use the same biodynamic method as Weaver. But the Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from Churton are a tad different. Its sauv blanc has a subtler tropical fruitiness, while the Pinot has a more muted hint of leather.
原產自法國南部的冷門葡萄Petit Manseng, 去到紐西蘭頓變成罕有品種,由英國人釀出來 的更是新世界甜酒中的異數;Churton的Pinot Noir跟其他Marlborough Pinot Noir相比,當中 的李子味比李子更李子,但皮革味又沒那麼皮 革。 (Opposite page) Marlborough Pinot Noir; the Petit Manseng, an uncommon grape species originally from southern France, is a rare varietal in New Zealand and sets itself apart among the sweeter New World wines in the hands of these Englishmen.
Churton總面積50公頃,只有22公頃為葡萄園,其餘的都是留給大自然及用作畜牧。 Churton measures 50 hectares, but only 22 are used for growing grapes. The rest is left to nature or livestock.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
83
food
美食之旅
The Salted Vine Albacore tuna佐以aji amarillo醬汁、 蘋果茸及薯片。 Albacore tuna in aji amarillo sauce, apple velvet and chips.
Rosé sangria
84
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
A gustational gem from Sea to Sky Story | Iris Yim Photography | The Salted Vine, Johnny Liu
雖然,卑詩省Squamish有攀岩勝地酋長岩(The Chief), 有本省第三大瀑布Shannon Falls,然而以往我都視之為Sea to Sky Highway到Whistler的中途站。 這一次吸引我特別到Squamish吃一頓晚飯的,是The Salted Vine Kitchen+Bar。 2017年The Salted Vine登上《enRoute Magazine》的年度 「The Best New Restaurant of Canada Top 30」之列,初試啼 聲卻又打響了名堂的試金石,再加上Whistler知名餐廳Araxi Restaurant老臣子Jeff Park及Pat Allan的合作,儼然是非一般的 餐廳。 行政總廚Jeff Park及餐廳總監及侍酒師Pat Allan覷準了近 年Squamish的年輕一輩急劇增長,成為充滿活力的新興社區卻 仍欠比較高檔的餐廳,兩人遂於2016年秋天合伙經營。 室內可以容納70人的餐廳採光充足,色調和諧的深灰色和 淺色調設計,把滿牆的油畫都襯托得雅致而有格調。酒吧後牆 酒紅色的滑動穀倉門、回收後局部染色的冷杉木板、灰色柚木 桌等,都帶出了以現代鄉村農舍氛圍為主調的設計心思。露天 雅座亦可坐20人。
With the amazing Shannon Falls and The Chief hiking trails, Squamish has long been considered a choice stopover spot along the scenic Sea to Sky highway between Vancouver and Whistler. Now, with the arrival of The Salted Vine, this community at the northern tip of Howe Sound has also become a culinary destination. The Salted Vine launched itself with light speed and was named one of the “Top 30 Best New Restaurants of Canada” by Air Canada’s enRoute Magazine in 2017. Through the collaboration of two veterans from the award-winning Araxi Restaurant & Oyster Bar in Whistler — executive chef Jeff Park and director/sommelier Pat Allan — The Salted Vine quickly established itself as a premium and contemporary gustatory destination in the heart of historic Squamish. The restaurant features a 70-seat dining room and lounge, plus a 20-seat patio. The interior is a natural beauty, combining harmonious shades of dark grey and pale colour tones with lots of natural light. Walls are adorned with oil paintings, bringing a sense of elegance to this eatery. A sliding barn door behind the bar, recycled and semi-dyed fir wood and grey teak wood tables give it a modern village farmhouse atmosphere.
煎Steelhead三文魚,帶魚鱗的魚 皮顯得特別香脆。 Extremely crispy steelhead salmon.
鮮甜美味的紅菜頭,配以burrata芝 士及香脆的'candied granola'。 Beetroot, burrata cheese and crispy candied granola.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
85
food
Charcuterie是當地肉製品及芝士配 以自家醃製的泡漬物。 A local meat, cheese and sour starter combo.
沙律用料全都採用當地農場出品,新鮮爽脆。 Salads use 100% fresh, locally produced ingredients.
86
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
行政總廚Jeff Park(左)及餐廳 總監、侍酒師Pat Allan(中)和 酒吧調酒師。 Executive chef Jeff Park (left), director/sommelier Pat Allan (middle) and their bartender.
有vanilla marscapone cream、 蛋白酥及莓果的甜品pavlova。 Dessert pavlova with vanilla marscapone cream and mixed berries.
這裏的菜式聚焦於最優質的當季在地食材,更著眼於可持 續及有機的選擇,如Nutrient Dense Farm、North Arm Farm和 Rootdown Organic Farm等當地出品。更有不少是可以共享的 菜式。 The Salted Vine有些菜式驟看似乎平實無奇,但細品之下 才知別有不同,例如採用了Nutrient Dense Farm的紅菜頭,鮮 甜美味,配以burrata芝士及香脆的candied granola,簡單而又 美味。又如再平凡不過的香煎Steelhead三文魚,大廚保留三文 魚的魚鱗,煎後口感格外香脆。而把阿省和牛以低溫Sous-vide 處理,再放到燒爐裡,讓雪花油脂滲出以滋潤著肉質,每一口 都是牛滋味! 韓裔的Chef Jeff在菜式上加入亞洲元素,如以自製辣椒 醬為燒鱆魚配味,豬腩肉配蘿蔔高湯及鮮冬菇等。廚房不少配 料都堅持自家製,如耐嚼有勁的sourdough酸麵包、開胃鮮酸 的泡漬物pickles和芥末籽等均不假外求,為菜式增香添味。 Chef Jeff的烹調滋味濃郁、分量恰到好處,客人不會有飽膩沉 重的感覺。
All dishes emphasize the finest seasonal, sustainable and organic local ingredients from nearby farms, such as Nutrient Dense Farm, North Arm Farm and Rootdown Organic Farm. The essence of each dish at The Salted Vine is gustation. The combination of beetroot, burrata cheese and crispy candied granola from Nutrient Dense Farm is simple, fresh and delicious. For the pan-fried steelhead salmon, executive chef Park has retained the salmon scales, which spike the crispness of the heavenly boneless fillet. Waygu beef from Alberta initially uses the sous vide cooking method, then is briefly grilled in the oven. This cooking technique produces an extremely succulent and juicy dish. Your taste buds will definitely thank you! Park has also incorporated a number of Asian elements, and produces numerous homemade dishes and ingredients, such as spicy burnt squid sauce, pork chops in radish and mushroom soup, sourdough bread, sour pickles and mustard seed. He generates rich plates with a balanced mix of ingredients. One thing you can count on: no one leaves hungry.
為了嘗The Salted Vine的菜式,值得專程來一趟Sea to Sky美食之旅。
The Salted Vine Kitchen+Bar: 37991 Second Ave., Squamish, BC, 604-390-1910, saltedvine.ca
烤和牛 Wagyu beef
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
87
travel
地上最強廚藝較勁 加國烹飪隊遠征法國里昂
Love food. Will travel. Join Team Canada in Lyon, France as they compete in the most prestigious and difficult culinary competition in the world Story | Leslie Yip
奪標之路
Team Canada on The road To gold
今年四月,加國烹飪團隊於墨西哥舉行的Bocuse d’ Or 世界烹飪大賽美洲區準決賽,憑著以阿加底亞魚子、安省 蘋果、魁省鵝肝及卑詩省鮮蜆炮製的精彩美饌,贏得米芝 蓮星級評審團垂青,榮獲銀獎,贏得2019年Bocuse d’ Or世 界烹飪大賽總決賽的入場券,將與各洲區的優勝隊伍齊集 法國里昂,一較高下。
our team wowed a panel of michelin-star judges this april in mexico with dishes that included acadian caviar, ontario apples, Quebec foie gras and British Columbia clams, winning silver at the Bocuse d’or americas qualifier and, with it, the coveted golden ticket to the 2019 finals in lyon.
Bocuse d’ Or是每兩年舉辦一次的世界烹飪大賽,被 譽為烹飪界的奧林匹克。大賽由法國名廚Paul Bocuse及 Albert Romain於1987年創辦,目的是讓世界各地最優秀的 廚師登上世界舞台,同時推廣本地及傳統美食的傳承。比 賽共有56個國家參加,但只有24隊能夠進入總決賽。加拿 大、美國、阿根廷、巴西及智利是美洲區的勝出隊伍。而 亞洲區的五強則分別為日本、新加坡、中國、泰國及南韓。
88
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
The Bocuse d’or is a biennial professional chef competition regarded as the olympics of the international culinary world. Founded in 1987 by legendary French chefs Paul Bocuse and albert romain, their mission is to bring the world’s greatest chefs from behind closed doors to the world stage and promote local and traditional gastronomy. Fifty-six countries competed in the regional preliminaries, with 24 reaching the final round. Canada will be representing the americas, along with the gold medal-winning United States, bronze medallist argentina, Brazil and Chile. The five asian finalists are Japan, Singapore, China, Thailand and South Korea.
里昂被稱為世界美食首府。當地擁有20家米芝蓮星級 餐廳,以及被稱為bouchons Lyonnais的小餐館、小 酒館及地道餐廳。 The city of Lyon is known as the world capital of gastronomy with more than 20 Michelin-star restaurants. There are also plenty of bistros, brasseries and local restaurants called "bouchons Lyonnais”.
星級團隊
a STar-STUdded Team
加國隊陣容鼎盛,以下名單雖然有點長,但全都是本國烹飪界 響噹噹的名字:
Please pardon the name dropping, but the Team Canada lineup reads like a Who’s Who of our country’s best chefs.
領隊Trevor Ritchie是George Brown College的烹飪技 師,曾任職於Langdon Hall、Queen's Landing、 la Société 及 Campagnolo。教練James Olberg入廚經驗超過20年,煮遍全國 多家著名食府包括King Edward酒店及位於Red Deer的Sheraton酒 店。還有多倫多The Fifth餐廳的行政總廚Jean-Pierre Challet及烹飪 學院Modern Culinary Academy創辦人John Placko擔任團隊顧問。
Front-runner Trevor ritchie is chef technologist at george Brown College in Toronto, who’s worked at langdon hall, Queen’s landing, la Société and Campagnolo. Coach James olberg has cooked across the country for more than two decades in such kitchens as the King edward hotel in Toronto and the Sheraton hotel in red deer. advisor Jean-Pierre Challet is exec chef at The Fifth Toronto, while fellow advisor John Placko is the founder of the modern Culinary academy in Toronto.
Ritchie曾跟國內多位星級名廚學藝,當中包括Mark McEwan (The McEwan集團)、Jason Bangerter(劍橋市Langdon Hall)、 marc lépine(渥太華Atelier)、John Higgins(多倫多George Brown College)及Frank Lu(本拿比Trattoria)等;今次與年輕廚師Jenna Reich一同出戰。
Together with young commis Jenna reich, ritchie has been training with the country’s best, including mark mcewan (The mcewan group, Toronto), Jason Bangerter (langdon hall, Cambridge, ont.), marc lépine (atelier, ottawa), John higgins (george Brown College, Toronto) and Frank lu (Trattoria, Burnaby, B.C.).
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
89
travel
Bocuse d’ Or世界烹飪大賽的獎盃上是已故創辦人Paul Bocuse穿上一身廚師服的人 像。金、銀、銅獎得主分別會獲頒獎盃及現金獎。金獎的獎金是2萬歐羅;銀獎及 銅獎則分別可獲得1萬5千及1萬歐羅的獎金。
地上最強廚藝較勁
The World’S moST InTenSe 'Food FIghT'
決賽當日,賽事會在開放式的「烹飪展廳」進行。場地會劃 分多個設備齊全、面積近200平方呎的廚房,每位參賽廚師包括 Ritchie及Reich都會在指定的廚房,面向評審團、傳媒及現場觀 眾,於限定的5.5小時內炮製肉類及魚類菜式各一道,而每道菜更 必須有三款配菜。
on the day of the event, each chef is allotted a fully equipped 200sq. ft. kitchen cubicle facing an area reserved for the jury, members of the media and spectators. ritchie and reich will have 5½ hours to prepare one meat platter and one fish plate, each with three garnishes.
比賽題目由大會決定,指定肉類食材已於9月份公布:5件相 連的優質小牛肉排架。魚類選材則於十月底才宣布。 Ritchie表示:「得知食材為小牛肉時我們特別興奮。這是我們 熟悉的食材,無論在味道及擺碟方面都有很多創作空間。Bocuse d’ Or是要挑戰如何把經典食材重新詮釋,炮製出創意新派菜。我們 的團隊正在構思把本土味道融入比賽菜式當中。」 每個參賽國家都會有一位代表加入評審團。評分準則為味道 及賣相兩方面,每道菜最高可在味道方面得40分,賣相得20分。 分數相同的話,評審可在衛生及整潔方面另加最高20分。整體分 數最高者便可勝出。此外,大會亦會頒發最佳魚類菜式、最佳肉 類菜式、最有國家本土特色獎、最佳助手及最佳海報獎項。
親赴里昂為國家隊打氣 如能在里昂的決賽中獲勝,不但讓新晉廚師揚名立萬,更可 提升加國在國際烹飪界的地位。Ritchie說:「當我們在墨西哥比 賽時,感到現場粉絲支持的重要性。自比賽於1987年創立以來,
90
The Bocuse d’Or trophy features the late Paul Bocuse standing on top of the world in his chef apparel. Gold, silver and bronze Bocuse trophies will be awarded to the top three competitors, as well cash prizes of 20,000 euros, 15,000 euros and 10,000 euros respectively.
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
The meat ingredient was announced in September: a suckling fiverib rack of veal. The fish ingredient was to be revealed in late october. “We were thrilled to hear that we’d be cooking with veal,” says ritchie. “It’s a product that we’re familiar with that offers a multitude of possibilities in terms of innovation in taste and presentation. “The challenge given by the Bocuse d’or is to reinterpret the classics into modern dishes. The team and I are already working on some ideas to incorporate our local flavours into our final dish for the competition.”
JoIn The Team In lYon a win in lyon could mean building a legacy for up-and-coming chefs and raising Canada’s international culinary standing. “The support of our fans made a big difference in mexico,” ritchie says. “no Canadian chef has ever brought home the gold and we have only made the top five twice since 1987. The team and I want to change that in January. We hope to have a delegation of at least 100 supporters, so we can demonstrate the best Canada has to offer in and out of the kitchen.”
這道是加拿大隊於Bocuse d’ Or準決賽中 「大型拼盤」 環節的參賽菜式。材料包括乳 豬蜜棗肉醫、烤豬腩肉伴血腸及小紅莓甜酸醬、煨婆羅門參、羊肚菌奶油蛋卷、 魁北克鵝肝小餡餅配McIntosh蘋果、紅莓楓葉及Neige蘋果酒。
於滑鐵盧市出生的Trevor Ritchie要過關斬將才獲得代表加國出賽的機會。首 先,他設計的菜單、履歷表及推薦信必須獲專業評審團一致通過;更要在競 爭激烈的烹飪比賽中擊敗眾多同樣優秀的對手。
Team Canada’s “theme on platter” at the Bocuse d’Or continental semifinals featured suckling pig terrine with dates and walnuts, roast belly pressé with boudin noir and cranberry chutney, braised salsify root, morel cream with trumpet farce and brioche, and Quebec foie gras tartelette with McIntosh apple, berry maple leaves and Neige ice cider jus.
Waterloo, Ont.-born chef Trevor Ritchie underwent an intensive selection process before earning the right to represent Canada. First, his recipes, résumé and letters of reference had to pass review by a panel of professional judges. Then he had to outshine other top candidates at an intense cook-off.
加拿大從來沒有贏過金獎,只是兩度入圍五強。我們的目標是 在明年1月的決賽獲取零的突破。希望屆時最少有100位支持者 去到現場打氣,讓我們在廚房內外,同心展現加國最美好的一 面。」 一連兩天的比賽將於明年1月29及30日於里昂的Eurexpo舉 行。加拿大隊為有興趣親身參與的粉絲們提供兩種套票選擇:5 天全包行程($3,000)及比賽門票($120)。 全包行程包括由溫哥華、多倫多或滿地可前往里昂的機 票、住宿4星級酒店hôtel lyon metropole、參觀酒莊Côte rôtie 及 Châteauneuf-du-Pape 、觀光船晚餐及於Brasserie Lyon Plage享用由廚師Georges Desriaux親自主理的傳統里昂晚宴。 亦包括往返比賽場地的接送服務。 喜歡自由行的食家們則可選擇第二種套票,包括2天比賽的 門票、一件紀念T恤以及參加在Comptoir de l’ Est舉行的賽後派 對(食物及酒水全包),與加拿大隊一同慶功。
安坐家中享受國家級美食體驗 想安坐家中享用加國烹飪隊炮製的美食,只需付出每位 $200(最少10人,最多20人),Ritchie及他的團隊便會上門為你 炮製9道菜的晚餐,你只需要佈置餐桌便可。現已開始接受節日 預訂,所有收益將直接用於資助團隊前往里昂比賽的旅費。
The two-day competition takes place January 29 to 30 at eurexpo in lyon, France. Team Canada has put together two trip options: a five-day, all-inclusive itinerary ($3,000) and a competition-only package ($120). The curated trip includes airfare from Vancouver, Toronto or montreal, accommodation at the four-star hôtel lyon metropole, winery visits to Côte rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, dinner on a sightseeing river barge and an authentic “bouchon lyonnaise” meal at Brasserie lyon Plage, run by chef georges desriaux. Transportation to the competition venue will also be provided. Foodies who want to design their own trip can choose the second option, where they will receive passes to the two-day competition, a souvenir T-shirt and tickets to the after-party with the team at Comptoir de l’est (food and wine included).
a goUrmeT eXPerIenCe, CloSer To home If you prefer to enjoy the Team Canada culinary experience in the comforts of your home, you can hire them to cater for your next dinner party. ritchie and his mates will come to your home and prepare nine dishes at a cost of $200 per guest (minimum 10, maximum 20). all you need to do is set the table. holiday bookings are open now, and all proceeds go directly to finance the team’s travel to the competition.
For more information, visit bocusedorcanada.ca.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
91
trAvel
倫敦盛世
Luxury London
Swanky Savoy: service with a silver spoon Story | Marc Atchison / TraveLife magazine
河景套房擁有寬濶視野觀賞美景。 A room with a view, indeed.
92
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
操一口倫敦東區口音,有30年駕駛經驗的計程車司機,一邊以 充滿警覺性的高速於倫敦的橫街窄巷中疾馳穿梭,一邊以米高堅般 的沉厚聲音為Savoy Hotel大賣廣告:「你以前有否住過Savoy?這是 我最喜歡的酒店之一。」數分鐘之後,計程車抵達倫敦著名劇院區的 The Strand大街,眼前就是The Savoy酒店的地標式遮篷。司機收錢 時不忘說:「酒店會為你提供帝皇式的享受。」 數名穿著長褸並戴著高禮帽的男服務員為我運送行李,我跟著 另一名員工穿過充滿Art Deco風格的大堂,走到仍保留愛德華時代 設計特色的前檯,驟看還以為自己身處附近的白金漢宮。辦理入住 手續時,我雙眼被豪華的裝飾所吸引,水晶吊燈、真跡名畫及華麗 的牆飾,就像是電視劇《唐頓莊園》的模樣。
The Cockney cabbie taking me to the swank Savoy Hotel speeds through the narrow back streets of the British capital like the getaway man in a bank robbery. “Have you ever stayed at the Savoy?,” he asks in an accent pure Michael Caine. “It’s one of my favourite hotels in London,” says the 30-year taxi veteran, looking like he might make some unsuspecting pedestrian a hood ornament at any moment. A few minutes later, the cab pulls off The Strand in London’s famed Theatre District and The Savoy’s landmark marquee comes into view.? “They’ll treat you like a king here, sir,” says the cabbie, who snatches the fare and speeds away. Men in top hats and long coats relieve me of my luggage and a member of staff whisks me through the Art Deco lobby and into an Edwardian-era reception room that looks like it belongs in nearby Buckingham Palace. As the nattily-attired young woman retrieves my info, I marvel at the room’s plush décor: crystal chandeliers, original artwork and rich wall coverings make it look like a set on Downton Abbey.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
93
trAvel
The Savoy正門的遮篷絕對是倫敦的地標,歷史悠久。 The Savoy's landmark marquee has been a signature on the London landscape longer than most other hotels in the British capital.
辦妥入住手續後,服務員把我的管家叫來。管家??「你將會 入住可望到泰晤士河的河景套房,當中包括了管家服務。」穿著整 齊燕尾禮服、高大有型的Richard便是我的管家。氣派非凡的Savoy 最注重服務質素,因此對員工要求非常嚴格,每位管家都要在酒店 的學院The Savoy Academy接受總管家Sean Davoren訓練。管家 的職責是24小時隨時候命,滿足客人的所有要求,如預約晚餐、購 買劇場門票、安排購物及觀光行程等。操一口英國上流社會口音的 Richard問道:「先生,不如讓我為你整理好行李。」他的服務水準相 信連《唐頓莊園》中的總管家Carson也不會有所挑剔。 我趁空欣賞窗外景致,泰晤士河、有倫敦眼之稱的摩天輪、大 笨鐘、國會大樓、倫敦大橋及林立的高樓大廈,幾乎所有地標都盡 在眼前。話說,當年名畫家莫奈及James Whistler入住Savoy酒店 時,正正因為泰晤士河的旖旎風光,為他們帶來靈感創作了多幅名 作。Savoy這座雅致的維多利亞式建築是1889年開業的酒店,亦是 泰晤士河唯一的五星級酒店,當時說得上是全城哄動,因為它是倫 敦首間酒店設有電燈以及冷、熱自來水,這些設施於19世紀的英國 絕對是奢華享受。
94
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Check-in complete, the attendant summons my butler. Butler!?? “You’ll be staying in one of our River View Suites (they overlook the Thames) and it comes with a butler,” says the attendant, who introduces me to Richard, a tall, handsome man decked out in top coat and tails. He looks like he belongs on top of a wedding cake. With service being paramount at the palatial Savoy, the hotel has some very high standards and trains its own butler staff in The Savoy Academy under the watchful eye of head butler Sean Davoren. They are at your beck and call, 24 hours a day, and arrange dinner reservations, theatre tickets, shopping outings and travel plans for guests. “May I unpack your bag, sir,” asks Richard in an upper-class English accent that would even impress Downton Abbey’s head butler Carson. As Richard empties my luggage, I’m left awestruck by the view from my window: The Thames, London Eye, Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, iconic bridges and a forest of modern skyscrapers. Talk about a room with a view. This view of the Thames is what inspired Claude Monet and James Whistler to paint some of their most famous works while staying at The Savoy. There’s only one problem: I can’t see the lovely Victorian building that houses the historic Savoy, the only five-star hotel on the Thames, which opened in 1889. It became an instant attraction back then because it was the first London hotel to offer electric lights, and hot and cold running water, modern luxuries back in 19th century Britain.
Savoy酒店時常被稱為「倫敦最著名的酒店」,首任經理是後來 創辦Ritz酒店的César Ritz,它現時由加國Fairmont酒店集團管理, 亦是巴黎Accor酒店品牌的成員之一。Fairmont於2010年耗資400 萬翻新酒店,帶來煥然新貌。Savoy的悠久歷史吸引了不少國家元 首及貴族垂青。亦因其位處劇院區,不少前來倫敦表演的影星及舞 台劇演員均喜歡入住,星級貴賓名單包括Coco Chanel、堪富利保 加、法蘭仙納杜拉、羅蘭士奧莉花、瑪麗蓮夢露、諾爾克華德及 瑪麗亞卡拉絲等。環境優美的Thames Foyer掛了不少普普藝術畫 作,餐廳中央的大籠子亦十分吸睛。樓梯位置亦掛了紅星如卜合、 威廉荷頓及阿娃嘉娜的親筆簽名相,沿樓梯可通往傳奇的American Bar。酒店對開更有一間小小的博物館,展出酒店百多年的光輝點 滴。 不過要數酒店名氣最大的客人,則非前英國首相邱吉爾莫屬。 二次大戰期間,納粹德軍向英國投下炸彈之際,他仍可處之泰然地 跟一眾內閣成員在Savoy用餐。酒店有9間「個人化特色套房」,以 曾入住該房間的明星或政客來命名,就連房間佈置及擺設亦盡量仿 照他們入住時的模樣。就好像瑪蓮德烈治於酒店作客時,曾要求在 房間擺放12朵粉紅色玫瑰花,因此以她命名的套房同樣放有12朵 粉紅色玫瑰花。這9間套房吸引客人爭相預訂,十分搶手。時至今 日,Savoy同樣星光熠熠,於酒店的餐廳(7間餐廳中以Savoy Grill及 Kaspars最具人氣)用膳不時會見到明星,他們亦喜歡於American 或Beaufort酒吧流連,後者位於Thames Foyer及Kaspars之間,充 滿Art Deco風格。
酒店前台位置氣派不凡,差點以 為自己身處白金漢宮。 The reception area at the famed Savoy looks like it belongs in nearby Buckingham Palace, where the Queen resides.
Often called “London’s most famous hotel” whose first manager was César Ritz, of the Ritz Hotel fame, the Savoy is now under the loving care and management of Canada’s Fairmont Hotels and Resorts and part of the Paris-based Accor Hotels brand. Fairmont oversaw a $400-million renovation of the Grand Dame in 2010 and The Savoy has never looked better. Through its long and distinguished history, The Savoy has been the address of many visiting heads of state and foreign royalty. And because of its location in the Theatre District, stars of screen and stage have called the hotel home when performing in London. Coco Chanel, Humphrey Bogart, Frank Sinatra, Laurence Olivier, Marilyn Monroe, Noël Coward and Maria Callas are just a few of the celebrities who have slept here. Some are immortalized in pop-art paintings that hang in the lovely Thames Foyer, where an elaborate gazebo draws lots of attention. Autographed pictures of others—Bob Hope, William Holden and Ava Gardner, among them—line the staircase leading to the hotel’s fabled American Bar. There’s also a small museum opposite the bar that contains many historical items related to The Savoy’s golden era. The hotel’s most famous guest, of course, was Sir Winston Churchill, Britain’s wartime leader who would defiantly dine at The Savoy with his cabinet while Nazi bombs rained down on London. Nine “personality suites” named in honour of the stars and politicians who stayed in them are always in high demand, and are decorated with artwork, photography and artifacts from the time when they were in residence. For instance, the Marlene Dietrich Suite comes with 12 pink roses, just like the ones the sultry actress requested when she was a guest. The stars of today are often seen eating at one of the hotel’s outstanding dining rooms (Savoy Grill and Kaspars at The Savoy being the most famous of the property’s seven restaurants) or hanging out at the American or Beaufort bars, the latter an Art Deco masterpiece located between the Thames Foyer and Kaspars.
ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
95
trAvel
Savoy其中一間豪華套房。 One of the stately suites at the Savoy.
飾以橡木牆身及Art Deco擺設的The Savoy Grill,由星級名廚 Gordon Ramsey的集團主理,能摘下米芝蓮一星,無論食物質素、 服務水準及餐廳氛圍都絕對不會令人失望。我當日品嚐了前菜康沃 爾蟹肉沙律,主菜是廚師在我面前即席烹調的黛安牛排。The Savoy Grill提供午餐及晚餐,店內的每日精選更是不少倫敦人的至愛。主 打英式海鮮菜餚的Kaspars亦同樣精采。店內的生蠔十分新鮮,每 一口都能嚐到海水味。新鮮捕獲的蘇格蘭三文魚,更是Kaspars的 鎮店之寶之一,令它擠身倫敦最著名的海鮮餐廳。噢,差點忘了介 紹Kaspar小貓!The Savoy其中一個有趣的傳說就是跟Kaspar小貓 及數字13有關。話說於1898年,一位地位顯赫的貴賓在餐廳舉行晚 宴,參加者人數原為14人,但結果其中一人未能出席。當時一位迷 信的客人言之鑿鑿地表示,如果13人當中有誰在晚宴結束前離開便 會遭遇不測。一名南非藉客人不信邪先行離開,怎料在數星期後, 他於約翰尼斯堡遭槍殺身亡。自此以後,每逢舉行13人的派對,酒 店都會出動Kaspar小貓,圍上餐巾入座「湊」數,以免再出現13不祥 的狀況。
96
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
The Savoy Grill, with its polished oak walls and Art Deco fixtures, is managed by celebrity chef Gordon Ramsey’s company and the one star Michelin room never fails to impress with its haute cuisine, service and seductive ambience. My Cornish crab salad starter was followed by a Steak Diane that was expertly prepared at my table in a flaming copper skillet. The Savoy Grill is open for lunch and dinner and its daily carving board specials is a magnet for many Londoners. Equally impressive is Kaspars at The Savoy, which specializes in British seafood dishes. Oysters so fresh you can taste the sea with every slurp, and freshly caught Scottish salmon are just some of the items that make Kaspars the most famous seafood restaurant in London. Oh, and did I mention Kaspar’s cat? One of the most intriguing legends connected to The Savoy is Kaspar the Cat and the number 13. The story goes: a prominent guest was holding a dinner party for 14 friends back in 1898 but one failed to show up. Another superstitious guest predicted that should one of the 13 remaining leave before dinner ended, tragedy would befall them. A South African guest took up the challenge and left early. A few weeks later he was shot and killed in Johannesburg. Since that day, any time the hotel hosts parties for 13 guests, which is quite often, Kasper the Cat, complete with napkin, is trotted out and given a seat to make sure there is no unlucky 13th guest sitting at the table.
The Savoy擁有267間客房及套房,佈置充滿愛德華時代設計 特色或Art Deco風格,同時提供各種現代化設備。我入住的河景套 房洋溢英倫魅力,柔和色調跟手繪牆飾及布藝和諧結合,為房間營 造家的溫暖感覺。設計師Pierre Yves Rochon利用古董擺設把部分 套房重修至愛德華年代的裝潢,讓客人在歷史懷抱中入睡。另一邊 廂,房間入口及浴室鋪上黑白色格子瓷磚,向酒店的Art Deco風格 致敬。他把兩種截然不同的設計特色完美融合,效果令人讚嘆。翻 新後的The Savoy搖身一變成為倫敦最佳酒店,雖然工程比預期延 遲了18個月,亦超支了200萬,但所花的每一分毫都絕對值得。酒 店翻新後更增加了一個全新水療中心、健身中心及室內泳池,水準 在倫敦五星級酒店中更是數一數二。 相比起倫敦其他高級酒店,The Savoy 最突出的地方是其貼心 周到的服務,當中把守酒店正門的門房員工猶為重要。已有30年經 驗的Tony Harvey是酒店其中一名年資最長的員工,他說過:「門房 這個崗位可稱為linkman,把外面的世界與酒店聯繫起來,doorman 這個名稱則令人覺得我們是俱樂部門外的守衛。」 由名店區Knightsbridge及Mayfair坐計程車很快便可抵達The Savoy,酒店周圍坐落了包括Covent Gardens等著名劇場。從酒店 一路走可到達Trafalgar Square及Pal Mal,甚至白金漢宮。鄰近的 滑鐵盧橋可通往泰晤士河的兩岸。 充滿歷史傳奇的The Savoy,是倫敦最閃耀、最受注目的酒店。
查詢更多詳情,請瀏覽網址www.toureast.com。
The Savoy’s magnificent collection of 267 rooms and suites are decorated in either Edwardian or Art Deco styles and stuffed with modern amenities. My River View Suite oozed with British charm in soft pastel tones that blend seamlessly with hand-painted wall coverings and fabrics that wrap the suite in a warm, homey feel. Designer Pierre Yves Rochon utilized lots of antique furnishings in the Edwardian suites to remind guests they are sleeping with history. However, he also uses black and white checkered tiles at the entrances and bathrooms of every Savoy room as a nod to the hotel’s Art Deco roots. The combination works amazingly well. Not a dime was spared turning The Savoy into London’s best hotel. No wonder the renovation was almost 18 months late and more than $200 million over budget. A new spa, gym and indoor pool were also added during the renovations and each qualifies as the finest among London’s all-star cast of five-star hotel properties. Service is what sets The Savoy apart from London’s other luxury properties, and it all starts with the hearty welcome guests get from the doormen who guard the entrance. Doorman Tony Harvey is one of the longest serving members of staff, a 30-year veteran, and is actually referred to as a “linkman” because “we link the outside world to the hotel. Doorman makes it sound like we are bouncers at a club,” he once told a reporter. The Savoy is a quick cab ride away from the high-end shops of Knightsbridge and Mayfair and surrounded by some of the most famous of London’s theatres, including Covent Gardens. Trafalgar Square and Pal Mal, which leads to Buckingham Palace, are just down the street, and neighbouring Waterloo Bridge links the left and right banks of the Thames. The spotlight is clearly on The Savoy these days because the legendary property is indeed the all-star of London’s hotel scene. For more information, visit www.toureast.com.
Kaspers被喻為倫敦最佳海鮮餐廳。 Kaspers at the Savoy qualifies as the best seafood restaurant in London. ELITEGEN
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
97
Been There 關注星尚,緊貼潮流。潮人潮服,名貴新品,華麗派對,搶先預賞新刊以及讀者回饋活動, 盡在Instagram: @EliteGenMag。Hashtag #EliteGen,你的圖片更有機會登上《星尚》。 Discover inspiring images, new luxury products, the latest fashion and the swankiest parties. Readers are invited to hashtag us for a chance to get featured: #EliteGen. Watch out for sneak previews of future issues and giveaways too.
Yang Mi arriving in style by helicopter to check out the Michael Kors Collection at New York Fashion Week. #楊幂 #AllAccessKors #NYFW #寶貝兒
98
#皇后出巡Our special correspondent tells us that @ charmaine_sheh is getting the royal treatment in Paris for #parisfashionweek #ss19 #balmain #pfw #佘詩曼工 作室 @the_joanne_chan
By accident or design? Chinese actresses Jie Dong and Lan Qin play the same character in two separate TV series, and now they are seated side-by-side at the @fendi show! #parisfashionweek #ss19 #pfw #秦嵐 #董潔 #富察皇后
Closer to home, and close to our skin, is the Cashmere Collection Crystal Ball. Fifteen fashion designers take their one-of-a-kind designs, created with Cashmere bathroom tissue, to the runway in support of breast cancer. @cancersociety #cashmere18 (photo by @ shoottheplanet)
Our favourite mermaid #林允 @linyun_jelly must be feeling quite at home at the Chanel #pfw show, where they’ve transformed the Grand Palais into a beach—complete with sand, sea and azure sky. #美人魚
E L I T E G E N. C A
•
NOVEMBER
•
2018
Our associate publisher @leslieyip0911 previewing #ss19 @marccain in Montreal. The graphic prints, bright colours and Moroccan flair tickle our wonderlust. #MarcCainLovesFashionWeek
投 資 在 價 值 和 設 計 上.