Dec 2018 EliteGen Vancouver

Xm giftas gui de December 2018 Vol. 40 Vancouver

VancouVer DECEMBER 2018

史泰龍大冒險腕錶

WaTch ouT with sly stallone

不容有失的領帶學

The arT of The neckTie 托斯卡尼艷陽下

Travelling in Tuscany

A sing tao puBliCAtion

零死角美女

迪麗熱巴

Dilraba The face of Mikimoto

the issue 巴黎/米蘭時裝周 elitegen.ca

CAN$4.99

Paris & Milan fashion week:

what you’ll be wearing next spring

A sing tao publicAtion

行政總裁 Chief Executive Officer 佩嘉露 Carol Peddie 總裁 President 黃敬強 Calvin Wong 副社長 Associate Publisher 葉子青 Leslie Yip

編輯部 editorial 編輯及美術總監 Editorial/Design Director 華艾朗 Alan A Vernon 副總編輯 Deputy Editor-in-chief 胡君偉 Kelvin Wu 加東版 Canada East Editor 徐少玲 Iris Chui 加西版 Canada West Editor 張萬青 Katherine Cheung 編審 Copy Editor Ross Hopkins 助理編輯 Assistant Editor 卓穗良 Kannis Cheuk 編輯部 Editorial enquiries editorial@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111

參與 Contributors Marc Atchison, Grace Chan, Sidney Chao, Lorne Drury, Kenson Ho, Ava Liu, Zoe Mak, Crystal Ng, Shuk Wa Tsang, George Verdolaga, Livian Wu, Emilia Ku Yazar, Iris Yim

互聯網及社交媒體 Online & social media 統籌 Coordinator 陳麗華 Tiffany Tan / 蕭潔璇 Phyllis Siu

美術部 production & design 美術及製作經理 Production Manager/Art Direction 邱卓庭 Cliff Yau 美術助理 Graphic Art Assistant 陸凱茵 Gloria Luk

廣告及市場部 Advertising sales & marketing 高級副總裁 Senior Vice President 袁樹燊 Johnson Yuen 營業及市務總監 Director of Sales & Marketing 黎家盛 Andrew Lai 營業及市務經理 Manager of Sales & Marketing 梁素珊 Lelia Leung

營業代表 Sales Representatives Connie Chim, Emily Ho, Andrew Lee, Denise Lee, Ken Li, Patrick Lo, Sophia Poon, Phyllis Siu, Amanda Wong, Kevin Wong 營業部 Advertising enquiries advertising@singtao.ca / 604-321-1111

發行部 Circulation & Distribution 市務拓展及發行經理 Corporate Development & Circulation Manager 陳露玲 Penny Chan circulation.van@singtao.ca / 604-321-5211

出版 Publishing Sing Tao Daily Limited, a division of Toronto Star Media Group 星島日報，多倫多星報傳媒集團轄下機構

星尚歡迎來稿，但不對投稿負上任何責任。 星尚每年出版九期 。所有內容均為本刊資產。 eliteGen welcomes submissions but is not responsible for unsolicited materials. eliteGen is printed 9 times a year. Entire contents are property of eliteGen . 部份內容由新傳媒集團有限公司提供 8508 Ash Street, Vancouver, BC Canada V6P 3M2

publisher’s letter

在這溫馨的日子， 你會想起誰?

It’s the most wonderful time of the year 總覺得12月是全年最溫馨的月份。即使天氣變得寒 冷，但看著漫天雪花紛飛，聽著蕩漾在空氣中的悠揚聖誕 頌曲，心頭暖暖的，希望為家人朋友送上一份滿有心思的 禮物，共度這佳節。 如果你仍在為選購禮品而費煞思量，大可放心，我們 為你準備的時尚聖誕禮品巡禮，上至珠寶衣飾，下至給家 中毛孩置一個別緻的安樂窩都包含在內。相信運動時揮動 著價值$630的LV健身繩，感覺會更是起勁呢！ 琳琅滿目的聖誕禮品固然豐富，教人賞心悅目的還有 今期的封面人物—廸麗熱巴。這位被譽為「零死角美女」的 維吾爾族美人，是第一位90後成為中國「金鷹獎」雙料視 后，影視發展如日方中的她，更成為擁有125年歷史、日 本著名珍珠品牌Mikimoto的亞洲代言人。 史泰龍銀幕上下均貫徹其硬朗作風，最近和著名手錶 品牌Richard Mille合作設計的限量版手錶，齊集他認為所 需要的元素，成就此價值過百萬元的作品。 掌握時裝潮流永不嫌早。且看今年巴黎和米蘭2019春 夏時裝周中多個著名品牌的時裝騷，自為知道該為明年回 暖時添置甚麼服飾。 與其感觸2018年快將成為過去，我反而對2019年充 滿期盼，因為我們正在籌劃一連串的全新環節，固步自封 從來不是eliteGen的作風，唯有不斷改進增值，才能成為 讀者不可或缺的高級品味生活指南。 在這樣溫馨的佳節，即使可能有點陳腔濫調，還是要 衷心向親愛的讀者們說一句：「聖誕及新年快樂！」

A

s snow flurries fly and carols play, our thoughts turn to gift giving and celebrations with friends and family.

Still hunting for the perfect gift for that special someone?

We searched high and low for the most outstanding objets du désir to include in our annual Christmas gift guide. From jewellery to pampering your pet, we’ve got your covered. After all, who doesn’t need a Louis Vuitton jump rope for the gym for a mere $630?

From perfect gift ideas to the subject of perfection, our cover girl Dilraba Dilmurat has been described as having the most perfect face—it is said that the Uyghur-born actress has no bad angles. Her flourishing film and TV career has made her a superstar but now as the new face of Mikimoto, Japan’s legendary 125-year-old pearl company, she’s a supermodel.

Other celebrities in this issue include Sylvester Stallone who helped design a million-dollar limited-edition watch by Richard Mille. I bet you’d never guess what the action movie star considers as a must-have feature in a watch. Also in this issue are the spring/summer collections straight from Paris and Milan so you will know now what you will be wearing when the weather begins to warm again.

While some may feel a tad nostalgic as another year draws to a close, I can’t wait to reveal a slew of exciting new features planned for eliteGen in 2019 as we continue to reinvent ourselves as your go-to guide for luxury living.

On behalf of eliteGen, I want to wish all our loyal readers and followers a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.

Sincerely,

Leslie Yip Associate Publisher

facebook.com/LeslieYip Twitter & Instagram: leslieyip0911

8

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

CONTENTS

eliteGen

36

52 28 chopard鑑賞家的寵兒 exquisitely crafted for the discriMinating custoMer

up front 6 團隊 Masthead

8 出版人的話 publisher's letter

jewellery 32 皇權瑰寶 louis Vuitton

celebrity 14 dress code: on the red carpet

timepieces 22 史泰龍大冒險腕錶 sly's Million-dollar watch

celebrity 36 封面故事 零死角美女 廸麗熱巴 coVer girl: dilraba dilMurat

shopping 42 聖誕禮品巡禮 annual xMas gift guide 50 感受聖誕 shifting into holiday Mode with oakridge centre

42

fashion: women 52 潮流特區 fashion week: paris & Milan

22

CONTENTS

78

68

exhibition

68 超越創意的時裝 gowns by guo pei

beauty & scents 72 elizabeth arden, neostrata, institut esthederM 76 植物美顏 plant-based beauty products 78 永遠的玫瑰 dior's new joy

fashion: men 80 體面男生 the art of the necktie, runway: berluti lifestyle 92 華麗深綠 trends in paint colours

98 城中最新優雅亮點 the newest spot for the city’s sMart & elegant set d/6 bar & lounge 102 一部手機 輕鬆旅攝 on the streets of london with the huawei Mate 20 pro

116

106 托斯卡尼艷陽下 traVel: tuscany automobiles 112 夢想號跑車 audi r8 tech

116 canon /nikon無反機 Mirrorless caMeras society 118 been there: the party circuit

96 無木仍歡 wine not: no to oak barrels?

112

Dress coDe

by lily lee

舒服柔和 on the fringes

減齡造型 youthful

趨時長靴 slit sexy

琦琦

關之琳

謝安琪

Qi Qi

Rosamund Kwan

琦琦身上的淺粉紅色套裝雖然質地和款式略嫌有點 「阿太」，但勝在顏色柔和舒服，若換上小一點的耳 環，整體效果會更佳。

關之琳以小鹿圖案恤衫襯格仔裙，不但沒有給人眼 花繚亂的感覺，還顯得她很年輕，散發濃濃少女味。

Kay這身Echtego打扮很趨時和特別，Stuart Weitzman長靴更是畫龍點睛之選。

A Bambi-pattern shirt with check skirt is a youthful combo.

Echtego mixed with an over-the-knee Stuart Weitzman is a keeper.

Knits are a mode mantra that never tires.

14

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

Kay Tse

Dress coDe

16

得天獨厚 leather clad

紅靴搶眼 simple assymmetry

和諧型格 gown glamour

陳慧琳

鄭秀文

胡杏兒

Kelly Chen

Sammi Cheng

Myolie Wu

Kelly這身Dior打扮很青春，特別是她妝容和髮型，少 女味濃。即使是長度略嫌尷尬的黑皮褲，一樣駕馭 得來，真的是得天獨厚。

鄭秀文以黑色low-cut皮裙內襯白色t-shirt，加上一頂 畫家帽，再以紅色耳環及Christian Louboutin金屬紅 靴作點綴，看似簡單卻實花心思的組合。

Halter neck設計令胡杏兒露出線條美麗的肩膊和鎖 骨位，左右兩邊黑白對比雖然很大，但感覺和諧， 還顯出型格感。

Dior in leather. Need we say more.

A low cut leather skirt with a white T is a classic backdrop for a pair of racy Christian Louboutin metallic boots.

A halter neckline is the perfect way to show off beautiful shoulders.

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

Dress coDe

閃爆現身 silver fox

Lady Gaga

18

才氣過人 tailored talent

Bradley Cooper

硬朗柔情 green goddess

Claire Foy

看著Lady Gaga一直進步的打扮，稱得上是賞心樂 事。且看這閃爆華麗的造型，由晚裝、髮型，以至 眼影，都用上銀白色系，帶出她的天后級貴氣。

Bradley Cooper是少數經常保持狀態的荷李活型 男，初試啼聲執導的 《星夢情深》 也備受好評，才氣 加人氣，簡單的三件頭西裝也格外有型。

憑演英女皇而贏得金球獎視后的Claire Foy，本身氣 場和一頭短髮雖令她顯得硬朗，但一襲深綠色長裙 卻又帶出幾分柔情，層次感很豐富！

A shimmering palette makes this star shine.

A Star Is Born star opts for a classic three piece.

The Golden Globe winner looks smashing in emerald.

Designer：Givenchy Haute Couture

Designer：Gucci

Designer：Stella McCartney

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

Dress coDe

貴氣乍現 regal presence

Meghan Markle

20

盡網焦點 on the web

Heidi Klum

黑白合體 star studded

Leighton Meester

難得不刻意作英式斯文打扮，Meghan Markle僅以 最愛的Givenchy黑裙現身，簡約打扮，反而自然流 露貴氣，令人驚喜！

Heidi Klum向來自信作性感打扮，此魚網裝貫徹作 風，欲蓋彌彰，輕易成為焦點。

黑、白看似易襯，卻很考當事人的魅力和艷光， Leighton Meester這樣的黑白相撞圖案，也只有她這 樣漂亮才不致流於誇張。

A simple black dress is all this royal beauty needs.

This supermodel could wear a potato sack and still rule a runway.

Black and white the king of classic colour combos.

Designer：Givenchy

Designer：Julien Macdonald

Designer：Sonia Rykiel

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

TimeworThy

史泰龍大冒險腕錶

On the Sly

RM25-01 lives up to larger-than-life presence—and price Story | Ringo Chan Photography | Bowy Chan

22

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

要數2018年最霸氣的腕錶，Richard Mille 這枚RM25-01可以直入三甲。直徑50.85mm、厚 23.65mm的錶殼，正合有份創作的史泰龍一貫風 格。 身形健碩、手臂粗壯的史泰龍，很早已跟 Richard Mille結下不解之緣；在2014年自導自演 的《The Expendables 3》中，他的紅色RM032潛 水錶十分搶眼。他跟Richard Mille份屬好友，最近 還獲邀參與腕錶創作。雖然年屆72，但他體內仍 是流著Rambo的第一滴血。所以有份參與創作的 RM25-01 Adventure Tourbillon Chronograph，便 是一枚很運動、很適合戴去野外探險的複雜腕錶。 史泰龍指明要加入的功能，是指南針。 RM25-01有兩個方法看指南針。首先是一個真 正的指南針錶圈裝置，有三層結構，最外層是一 個TPT碳纖維外殼，把它打開會發覺內裡有一面 鏡子，上面有一垂直線，反映錶盤的指南針能測 量更精準方位。中間的指南針層由兩層防反光鏡 組成，確保陽光下能清晰閱讀，同時具備防磁功 能，以免磁力影響機芯運作。最底層是安裝系 統，只要對準兩個白色箭咀，像相機鏡頭般輕輕 一扭便能安裝或解卸於錶殼。更實用的是這指南 針裝置能獨立拆出來，再連接上一個充滿刻度的 底板，方便放置於地圖上測量。

This RM25-01 from Richard Mille has got to be one of the most imposing timepieces of 2018. At 50.85mm wide and 23.65mm thick, it lives up to the larger-than-life presence of Sylvester Stallone, who played a part in the watch’s design.

Sylvester Stallone has established a close link with Richard Mille over the years. In The Expendables 3, in which he starred and directed in 2014, he wore a striking red RM032 diver’s watch. Mille recently invited the Rocky Balboa character to take part in the design of a new watch.

At age 72, with the blood of Rambo still coursing through his veins, he helped create the RM25-01 Adventure Tourbillon Chronograph, a sporty complicated watch designed for adventures in the wild.

Stallone insisted that a compass be integrated into the watch, and the RM25-01 has two interchangeable bezels for checking directions.

One is an add-on compass bezel in three layers.

The Carbon TPT cover has a mirrored back and a slot at 12 o’clock to increase precision of sightings with the compass needle.

Its sapphire crystals have a multi-layer, anti-reflective treatment to ensure readability in sunlight. It also has an anti-magnetic coating to prevent any mutual interference of the movement and compass.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

23

TimeworThy RM25 - 01 deconstructed 解構 72小時能量顯示 72-hour power reserve indicator.

快轉發條鼓，由普遍7.5小時轉一圈改為 6小時，能減少拉力以增加效能，也可提 供更穩定的能量釋放。

拉力顯示器，代表發條鼓的拉力，低於53 dNmm表示太鬆弛，超過65 dNmm則是太 緊，有機會影響機芯運作。

Fast-rotating barrel, at six hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours. This helps to reduce torque and increase efficiency for steadier power release.

Torque indictor showing the torque of the barrel. The ideal torque is between 53 dNmm and 65 dNmm

10時按鈕把計時針全部歸零 Reset chronograph at 10 o’clock.

密 封 裝 置 刻 上「 w a t e r disinfection」，可放置淨 水丸，野外山澗收集回 來的一公升水，經30至 120分鐘淨化便可飲用 （視乎污水程度） 。 The sealed compartment marked “water disinfection” can store water purification tablets able to purify one litre of water in 30120 minutes, depending upon the pollution level.

水平儀，只要確保腕 錶處於絕對水平位 置，指南針的角度便 最準確。 The spirit level for checking that the watch is perfectly horizontal.

8時按鈕啟動及停止計時 Start and stop chronograph at 8 o’clock.

錶鏡以3.3mm厚度藍寶石水晶製 The sapphire crystal is 3.3mm thick. 鏤空底板及搭橋以5級鈦合金製，成分包括90% 5級鈦、6%鋁及4%釩，此合金非常堅硬，具高 度防鏽蝕性，也令齒輪系運行得更順暢。 The skeletonized baseplate and bridge are machined out of Grade 5 titanium, consisting of 90% titanium, 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. It is extremely hard and highly corrosion-resistant to ensure the gear trains work smoothly.

24

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

功能顯示器中，W代表winding，即腕錶在上鏈 狀態；N是neutral，即正常走時；H則代表hand setting，可以調校腕錶時間。 On the functional indicator, W (for winding)indicates the watch is winding, N (for neutral) indicates the watch is working normally and H (for hand setting) is for manual time setting.

50.85×23.65mm錶殼以TPT碳纖維及鈦金屬打造， TPT碳纖維經過高壓及120攝氏高溫製成，具獨特波 浪紋，由一層層不多於30毫米的碳纖維堆疊而成。 The 50.85×23.65mm watch case is fashioned with Carbon TPT and titanium. Carbon TPT is heated to 120oC at high pressure. It has a unique undulating surface, the result of stacking layers of carbon filaments no thicker than 30 microns. 陀飛輪直徑12.3mm、擺輪直徑10mm。 The tourbillion diameter is 12.3mm. The balance wheel diameter is 10mm.

TimeworThy

另外是加裝配有24小時及南北半球小時刻度的方向 錶圈，它比指南針輕巧，只要把時針對向太陽，把旋轉錶 圈內你身處南或北半球的小時轉到時針位，那麼在錶圈裡 便看到身處位置的東南西北方位。 另一亮點位於錶殼右側。4時位置有一綠色液體在內 的是水平儀，作用是偵測腕錶何時達致水平，這樣指南針 的角度便最準確；2時位置刻上「water disinfection」，原 來它能收藏淨化水膠囊，在野外山澗只要把一粒淨水膠囊 放進1公升水內，30至120分鐘（視乎污水程度）後便可飲 用。 RM25-01 Adventure Tourbillon Chronograph搭載 了Caliber RM25-01機芯，可儲能72小時，採用印有迷彩 圖案的天然橡膠帶，防水100米，限量20枚。價錢盛惠約 130萬元。

The bottom layer has a bayonet mount with two white pointers for easy fixing, similar to screwing on a camera lens. The compass is detachable and can be affixed to a plate with markers for orienteering or reading a map.

The compass bezel may be replaced with a lighter bi-directional bezel with a 24-hour scale. By turning the hour hand to face the sun and the bezel to the local time on its 24-hour scale, the watch is able to identify north, south, east and west in either hemisphere.

A spirit level located at 4 o’clock is for setting the watch perfectly horizontal for more accurate reading. Inside the compartment marked “water disinfection” at 2 o’clock are water purification tablets, which can be used to turn a litre of water in the wild into drinking water within 30 to 120 minutes, depending upon the level of pollution.

The RM25-01 Adventure Tourbillon Chronograph features 72 hours of power reserve, is water resistant to 100 metres and comes with a natural rubber strap in a camouflage tone.

The watch of watches is limited to only 20 pieces, and comes with a hefty price tag: approx. $1,300,000.

Caliber RM25 - 01 手動上鏈陀飛輪機芯，直徑38.95mm、厚 8.37mm，震頻每小時21,600次 （3Hz） 。 The hand-winding tourbillon movement is 38.95mm wide and 8.37mm thick, with a frequency of 21,600 vph (3 Hz).

工程師以數月時間研究增加機芯的精 準度及減低重量，例如重新設計以鈦 金屬製造不同機件、減少零件間互相 摩擦，以達致節能50%。 Working for months on enhancing precision and reducing weight by redesigning various titanium parts and reducing friction between them, the engineers have achieved a 50% power saving.

26

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

防水100米 Water resistant to 100m.

調校時間模組，裝於機芯以外，可獨立更 換，不影響內裡零件。安裝及拆除時不用移 走指針。 The module for adjusting time placed outside of the calibre can be replaced without affecting other parts. The hands don’t need to be removed in the process.

choice

Chopard精品店位於溫哥華市中心尊貴地點。 Vancouver’s Chopard boutique store is located in a prime downtown location.

蕭邦錶單單在研發機芯已花上 長達15,000小時。 Research and development for the movement of a Chopard watch can take up to 15,000 hours.

Chopard— 鑑賞家的寵兒

Exquisitely crafted for the discriminating customer Story | Kenson Ho & George Verdolaga Chopard的共同總裁Karl-Friedrich Scheufele表示：「Chopard蕭邦錶的客戶重視優 秀設計，講求專業工藝，一般都受過高等教育，周遊列國和見多識廣，喜歡收藏名貴葡萄 酒、古董汽車和稀有時計。他們追求特別的東西，對主流品牌沒甚興趣，最是欣賞我們公 司恆久耐看的設計和每年僅70,000枚時計的限量生產。蕭邦手錶是非常精鍊的高端產品。 我們的一些時計，如L.U.C. Full-Strike手錶(在被公認為製錶業『奧斯卡獎』的2017年Grand Prix d'Horlogerie大賽中獲得金獎)，已花上長達15,000小時來研發機芯，再加上一個月時 間來組裝全部533件零件。」

經典賽車迷摯愛 蕭邦錶深深吸引著收藏家，彼等重點選購會隨著時間而升值的精品。而憑著古董賽 車運動支持者的定位，品牌已在市場上成功佔據獨特空間。30年來，該公司一直是Mille Miglia汽車拉力賽(Mille Miglia是世界上最負盛名、以1958年之前生產的古董汽車參加之賽 事。) 的贊助商和官方計時廠商。Scheufele家族一直熱愛經典，Karl本人也是古董汽車愛 好者和狂熱的賽車手。 多年來，他蒐集了一系列大戰前後的英國和德國汽車，包括多部賓利、法拉利、雅士 頓•馬田，保時捷和迷你谷巴；更曾參加Mille Miglia大賽，乃是從布雷西亞到羅馬的1000 英里耐力賽。蕭邦與保時捷的緊密合作關係，始自保時捷2014年勝利回歸利曼24小時大 賽，並於今年在加州的Laguna Seca賽道慶祝保時捷70周年紀念。

28

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

店內亦提供皮具精品。 There is a limited selection of Chopard leather goods.

For those who have been looking for something different to wear, consider a brand that stands apart from everything else that’s out there: Chopard.

“Chopard watches are bought by discerning individuals, those who value good design and expert craftsmanship,” confides Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele. “Our clients are typically well-educated and well-travelled people, who like to collect fine wine, vintage automobiles and rare timepieces.

“They look for something special and aren’t interested in mainstream brands.

They appreciate the company’s timeless designs and its small-batch production of 70,000 timepieces per year.

“Chopard watches are very sophisticated high-end watches. Some of our timepieces, like the L.U.C. Full-Strike watch, can take up to 15,000 hours of research and development for the movement alone, plus a month to assemble all of its 533 components.”

(The aforementioned timepiece was a gold-medal winner at the 2017 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie, considered the Academy Awards of watchmaking.)

Chopard appeals to the avid collector, who acquires things that appreciate in value over time. The company has carved out a successful niche in the market by positioning itself as a supporter of classic motorsport.

For 30 years, the company has been a sponsor and official timekeeper for the Mille Miglia, the world’s most prestigious race for vintage cars produced before 1958. The Scheufele family has always had a love for classics and Karl-Friedrich himself is a classic car enthusiast and avid racer.

He has built up a collection of pre- and post-war English and German cars over the years that includes Bentleys, Ferraris, Aston Martins, Porsches and Mini Coopers.

Scheufele actually races at Mille Miglia which, as the name suggests, is a 1,000mile endurance rally from Brescia to Rome and back. Chopard has also partnered with Porsche since its triumphant return to Le Mans racing in 2014 and is helping to celebrate the renowned automaker’s 70th anniversary at the Laguna Seca Raceway in California this year.

Chopard在溫哥華的銷售額於過去 十年穩步增長，因此決定在此開設 獨立精品店。 Chopard sales in Vancouver have steadily increased over the last 10 years, which led to the decision to open a stand-alone boutique in the city.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

29

choice

蕭邦為獨具慧眼客人呈獻精湛工藝的手錶。 Chopard is the exquisitely crafted watch for discriminating customers.

Chopard是珠寶和時計鑑賞家的寵兒。 Chopard: The Watch for Jewelry & Timepiece Cognoscenti

作為經典賽車運動支持者的定位，已在市場上捕捉到一個 成功的獨特空間。 The company has carved a successful niche in the market by positioning itself as a supporter of classic motorsport.

獨特故增值 蕭邦被公認為製作認真和嚴謹的手錶品牌，是少數堅持自行生產50％手錶 機芯(稱為『manufaktur』)的獨立製錶商。Karl說道：「對要求高的手錶收藏家來 說，品牌如能製造自己手錶的內部零件很是重要，加強其真實性、吸引力和價 值，我也因此而決定重新自行生產機芯『manufaktur』。這樣一來可令我們有別於 其他品牌，不是選用外判交來的機芯，然後只是在錶面印上自己的商標。事實 上，我們的男裝手錶銷售情況非常好，部分原因也在於這一舉措。正因為在溫哥 華的銷售額於過往十年穩步增長，促使我們決定在這裡開設一家精品專門店。」 蕭邦是Karl-Friedrich Scheufele的家族業務，由他和妹妹Caroline擔任共同 總裁。 「在我父親於1963年入主蕭邦之前，曾祖父已於1904年創辦了一家鐘錶製 造和珠寶設計公司。」現在Karl負責鐘錶製造事宜，Caroline則主理珠寶方面的發 展。「公司65％的銷售額來自手錶，35％來自珠寶。若開設僅銷售時計的專門店 可能會有點挑戰性，而選擇能夠同時提供適合男女顧客的精品，更符合在全球開 設多間精品店的策略。1976年，我們創製的『Happy Diamond』手錶，贏得當時 手錶設計的最高獎項，甫推出便售出10,000枚。這款手錶啟發了我妹妹十年後推 出了她的『Happy Clown』系列，開始我們的珠寶業務。」 Caroline銳意發展高級珠寶，通常會在國際電影節上推出新的珠寶作品。蕭 邦自1998年以來一直支持康城電影節，為這盛事設計各種獎杯和名人佩戴的珠寶 外，還舉辦頒獎儀式後的慶祝派對。品牌2018年『紅地毯系列』的靈感正是源於 Caroline到世界各地旅行期間程，受到建築、藝術、文學和電影的感動，在其旅 行日誌中記錄下來，畫下草圖，然後融入並創作成備受追捧的珠寶系列。 即使手機是先進科技產品，也可以報時，不過Karl認為人們不會視手機為收 藏品，和手錶有很大分別。「我們無意出售100,000枚或以上的手錶，或試圖吸引 所有的人。我們希望保持精品路向，亦深信這就是我們的成功秘訣。」

30

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

蕭邦的共同總裁KarlFriedrich Scheufele。 Chopard co-president KarlFriedrich Scheufele.

“One of the things that sets Chopard apart as a serious watchmaker was our decision to produce 50 per cent of the watch movements inhouse (called ‘manufaktur’),” Scheufele says. “I initiated the rebirth of manufaktur for the sake of authenticity.”

IN-HOUSE MOVEMENTS INCREASE VALUE, DESIRABILTY “You see, it’s very important, especially for serious watch-collectors, to know that Chopard produces its own internal watch engine, to distinguish ourselves from the other brands that outsource their movements and then simply stamp their logo on the watch face. It’s critical for independent watchmakers like us to do it in this manner, as it adds more value to the watches we make and increases the desirability of our timepieces.

“In fact, our gentleman’s watches (‘gents’ for short) have been selling very well, partly due to this initiative. And our sales in Vancouver have seen a steady increase over the last 10 years, which is why we finally decided to open a stand-alone boutique in the city.”

“Before my father took over Chopard in 1963, my great-grandfather started a watch-making and jewelry design company in 1904. My sister Caroline, who is my co-president at Chopard, manages the jewelry side of the company, while I handle the watchmaking side.

“Sixty-five per cent of our sales are in watches and 35 per cent is in jewelry. Opening a timepiece-only store can be challenging. Being able

to offer something for both men and women has enabled us to open a network of boutiques worldwide.

“In 1976, we created the ‘Happy Diamond’ watch, which won the highest award for watch design in the 1970s. It also sold 10,000 units when it launched. That piece inspired my sister to start our jewelry business a decade later with her ‘Happy Clown’ piece. Originally meant to be a one-off piece for her own personal collection, she formally launched the Happy Diamonds line that same year, which marked the beginning of Chopard’s serious foray into jewelry-making.”

“Caroline took it all the way to high jewelry — unique and expensive pieces meant for special customers. We typically launch our new jewelry pieces at international film festivals. Chopard has supported the Cannes Film Festival since 1998. We design the various trophies for the event, the jewelry to be worn by the celebrities and we also host the after-party that happens once the award ceremony has concluded.

“Caroline’s ‘Red Carpet Collection’ for 2018 was inspired by her many travels around the world. She goes to the farthest ends of the earth to be inspired by architecture, art, literature and film. She jots down her impressions — and creates sketches — in her travel diaries, which goes into the creation for our highly sought-after jewelry line.

“People don’t collect phones, which can also tell you the time, the way they do watches. Watches also allow you to be disconnected from technology. We have no intention to sell 100,000 or more watches and try to appeal to everyone. We would like to stay exclusive and that, I believe, is the secret to our success.”

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

31

Jewellery

Conquetes Regalia系列中的 白金耳環，中央各鑲嵌1顆重 約0.99卡與0.97卡祖母綠寶 石、各鑲嵌1顆梨形鑽石和正 方形切割鑽石，還密鑲總重 2.23卡圓形鑽石。 White gold earrings inlaid with a 0.99-carat and a 0.97-carat emerald a pear-shaped diamond and square-cut diamond, and a pavé setting of round diamonds totalling 2.23 carats.

鑲鑽石和祖母綠寶石的白金戒指。 White gold earrings with diamonds and emeralds.

中央鑲嵌1顆重1.51卡無瑕正方祖母綠切割鑽石總重9.22 卡鑽石、4顆正方形切割鑽石，以及密鑲總重7.09卡圓形 鑽石的白金手鐲。 White gold bracelet inlaid with a 1.51-carat flawless square diamond, diamonds weighing a total of 9.22 carats, four square-cut diamonds and a pavé setting of round diamonds weighing 7.09 carats total.

皇權瑰寶

Symbols of sovereignty Louis Vuitton’s new Conquêtes Regali has a story of royal conquest Story | Chappie

中央鑲嵌4.68卡祖母綠寶石和密鑲總重23.98 卡鑽石的白金頸鏈。 White gold necklace inlaid with a 4.68-carat emerald and a pavé setting of diamonds with a total weight of 23.98 carats.

32

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

白金頸鏈於中央鑲嵌一顆4.15卡紅寶石、22顆共重1.7 卡正方形切割鑽石、298顆共重13.58卡長方形切割鑽 石和密鑲513顆共重20.31卡圓形鑽石。 White gold necklace inlaid with a 4.15-carat ruby, 22 square-cut diamonds with a total weight of 1.7 carats, 298 pieces of rectangular-cut diamonds weighing a total of 13.58 carats and a pavé setting of 513 round diamonds weighing a total of 20.31 carats.

白金手鐲在中央鑲嵌一顆2.1卡紅寶石、39顆共重 2.52卡正方形切割鑽石、116顆共重6.92卡長方形 切割鑽石和密鑲262顆共重10.31卡圓形鑽石。 White gold bracelet inlaid with a 2.1-carat ruby, 39 square-cut diamonds weighing a total of 2.52 carats, 116 rectangular-cut diamonds totalling 6.92 carats and a pavé setting of 262 round diamonds with a total weight of 10.31 carats.

Louis Vuitton今年最新登場的Conquêtes Regali高級 珠寶系列，以征服皇權的故事背景，從象徵君主至高無上 權力的徽章、裝飾及物件，如皇室勳章獲取靈感，呈現女 性與生俱來的力量和氣派。

彩寶魅力 LV Conquêtes Regalia高級珠寶系列總共有7套60款 珠寶，以色彩奪目的主石為焦點，工匠將精心挑選的鑽石 鑲嵌出動感形狀與曲線，勾勒品牌的經典花卉圖案及V字 設計，襯托彩色寶石的獨特美態，同時也巧妙地滲入月桂 花冠及百合花飾的圖案，突顯尊貴魅力的標記。

Louis Vuitton’s new High Jewellery collection pays homage to a conquering, self-assured, seductive woman. Her conquests come to life in the Maison’s two emblematic signature motifs: the monogram flower and the V, brought together for the first time in one collection.

The pieces and other accessories draw inspiration from a royal insignia, which symbolizes the monarch’s supreme authority.

Louis Vuitton has used the stylistic vocabulary of heraldry—the science of coats of arms, and the science of orders and decorations, as a source of inspiration to invent a new insignia of power.

Craftsmen carefully set selected gems to create classic floral patterns of the brand’s iconic letters, and also artfully incorporate patterns such as laurel wreaths and lilies to highlight the brand’s image of legitimate elegance and sophistication.

白金戒指在中央鑲嵌1顆7.48卡黃 色藍寶石、2顆正方形切割鑽石、 2顆三角形切割鑽石和密鑲86顆 共重2.47卡圓形鑽石。 White gold ring inlaid with a 7.48-carat yellow sapphire, two square-cut diamonds, two triangle-cut diamonds and a pavé setting of 86 round diamonds totalling 2.47 carats.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

33

Jewellery

工匠在鑲嵌寶石之前，會先將白金鏈節打造成能夠完美貼服於肌膚上的效果。 Before setting the precious stones, craftsman first craft the white gold chain to fall perfectly flat on the skin.

白金手鐲鑲嵌了總重7.77卡沙弗萊石和總重 11.36卡鑽石。 White gold bracelet inlaid with tsavorite weighing a total of 7.77 carats and diamonds weighing a total of 11.36 carats.

鑲嵌總重1.73卡沙弗萊石和總重2.84卡 鑽石的白金耳環。 White gold earring inlaid with tsavorite weighing a total of 1.73 carats and diamonds weighing a total of 2.84 carats. 全部貨品均未定價 All prices to be determined 34

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Cover girl

零死角美女

Pearls of wisdom Dilraba Dilmurat is the epitome of Chinese celebrity 廸麗熱巴是楊冪帶出道的，也是她的旗下藝人，卻青出於藍， 在今年中國第29屆金鷹獎中，以超過170萬觀眾投票，首次奪得 「最具人氣女演員」，比第二名的楊紫多了40萬票；同時成為「觀 眾喜愛女演員」，是金鷹獎史上第一位90後的雙料視后，可見其 人氣之盛。 In China, Dilraba Dilmurat is a household name. Everyone knows who she is. In fact, a picture of her taken at Milan Fashion Week earlier this year was tweeted by a Japanese fan and garnered 50,000 shares and 21,000 likes—in just one day. That makes her a social media darling.

Story | Iris Chui Photography | 韋來 Styling | 姜成皓 Hair & makeup | 田洪禹

36

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Boucle Précieuse necklace (can be worn as a bracelet) in 18K white gold with Japan Akoya pearl and diamonds, approx. $13,000 Earrings in 18K white gold with Japan Akoya pearl and diamonds, approx. $6,400 Ring in 18K white gold with Japan Akoya pearl and diamonds, approx. $1,100 All Mikimoto

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

37

Cover girl

廸麗熱巴是Dolce & Gabbana的品牌大 使，剛過去的2019年春夏時裝騷便化 身為模特兒給品牌行貓步。 Dilmurat is the image ambassador of Dolce & Gabbana and was a model at its 2019 spring/summer fashion show.

38

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

擁有新疆血統、26歲的迪麗熱巴，向來有「零死角美女」美譽， 即使日本沒播映過她的戲，但一輯攝於今年2月米蘭時裝周的照片 被日本網民上載到Twitter後，短短一日已獲5萬多轉載和21萬個 like，當地網民更稱她為「夢中情人」。著名日本珍珠品牌Mikimoto 也特意找她作亞洲代言人，稱許她擁有獨特氣質，美顏宛如天成。 熱巴的演藝路甚是順遂。小時候想跟擅長男高音的爸爸一樣當 歌手的她，本來想去考中央音樂學院，剛巧上海戲劇學院也在旁邊 招生，她見大家都拿著一張紙條，便問那是甚麼，對方答是要念的 東西，她沒在意就進去了。後來老師要求朗讀，便跟旁邊的人借了 一個散文，即興去讀，就這樣陰差陽錯的考上了上海戲劇學院的表 演系。 大學還未畢業，楊冪的公司在招網劇《微時代》的演員，熱巴的 同學想去報名，慫恿熱巴一起，熱巴當時還說自己應該不太可能。 結果老師把班上同學的個人信息都推薦給了劇組，熱巴接到了劇 組電話，拍了一個近景的MV特寫發過去，就這樣被選中去公司面 試。「面試還分了幾天進行，有試鏡，試完就說公司想簽我，然後 我就很緊張，我說，『不會吧！為甚麼是我啊！』」 2013年出道至今﹐熱巴已拍了超過16齣電視劇和4部電影。儘 管面對鏡頭時比較熟練，她說對自己的演技始終抱著學習態度。 「我 不知道自己的演技有否提高，得讓觀眾去評價。我平時一直督促自 己多看看電影，也很注意多跟導演溝通」。而判斷自己演得如何的 標準是「我知道她，我自己來成為她，好像演得就是比較成熟了」。 她拍電影《解憂雜貨店》有彈結他的戲份，在進組前她就密集苦學了 幾天，之後也跟著組裏老師每天的現場教學。到拍劇集《烈火如歌》 時要舞鞭子，她覺得很好玩，很主動地練，結果打到自己一身疼， 甚至打到眼皮都腫了。

The 26-year-old, of Uyghur descent, has a reputation as a beauty— with no imperfect angles. And though none of her movies have ever screened at a Japanese cinema, social media in Japan tweets her as “lover of our dreams.”

Riding that wave of celebrity has caught the eye of Mikimoto, the 125-year-old Japanese cultured pearl company who very recently made Dilmurat their Asian brand ambassador, praising her for her unique allure and God-given beauty. The millennial actress was chosen not only because of her unique beauty, but because of her ambition, bubbly personality and hardworking attitude.

And success seems to follow her everywhere she goes: This year, at the 29th Golden Eagle Awards in China, Dilmurat won the Audience Choice for Best Actress with 400,000 more votes than runner up Yang Zi. She also won the Most Popular Actress award, and became the youngest actor to receive two awards at the Golden Eagle Awards, underscoring her star power.

When Dilmurat was little, she wanted to be a singer like her tenor father. She planned to audition for the Central Conservatory of Music, but coincidentally, at the same time, the Shanghai Theatre Academy was also recruiting. On a lark and totally unprepared, Dilmurat just followed a bunch of students into an audition for admission. When the teacher asked her to read, she just borrowed an essay from the person next to her and began to read out loud. Of course, she got in. But before graduating from the Shanghai Theatre Academy, her future boss and mentor Yang Mi was recruiting actors for a new drama series titled V Love. Her classmate encouraged Dilmurat to audition with her, Dilmurat thinking she didn’t have a chance. In the end, one of her teachers sent the entire class’ information to the film crew. Dilmurat received a call to send over an audition tape. “The interview took several days, including an audition,” says Dilmurat. “I was so excited. I said to myself, ‘That’s impossible. Why did I get chosen?’’’ Of course, she won them over and a contract was signed.

M Collection pendant in 18K white gold with white South Sea cultured pearl and diamonds, approx. $8,200 M Collection earrings in 18K white gold with white South Sea cultured pearls and diamonds, approx. $13,200 M Collection ring in 18K white gold with white South Sea cultured pearl and diamonds, approx. $9,500 All Mikimoto

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

39

Cover girl

Jeux de Rubans necklace in 18K white gold with Japan Akoya pearl and diamonds, approx. $270,000 Jeux de Rubans earrings in 18K white gold and diamonds, approx. $55,500 All Mikimoto

40

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

止於智者 熱巴說自己是那種「很多事要自己想通的女人，很多事最終需要自己去說服自己」的 人。但對熱巴這個「雙子座比較跳脫」的女人來說，生活中的快樂總是多過煩心事！ 一個人紅了總是難免有流言蜚語，最近便有傳她拍《一千零一夜》時耍大牌，有臨 時演員說拍攝時正值冬天，等拍時躲進一間花店裏，卻因為熱巴要進花店，被導演趕出 去。又說她不肯拍照簽名等…… 最後因為愈傳愈熱，《一千零一夜》的工作人員忍不住走出來為熱巴抱不平，稱讚她 不但有禮貌，還十分專業，許多打戲、淋雨場面都是親自上陣。還叫說熱巴壞話的人拿 出證據來。 對於「被黑」事件，迪麗熱巴坦言：「以前有一段時間是很難過的，不知道為甚麼很多 事情，你都不知道原因，也不知道發生了甚麼，現在已經沒有想法，覺得無所謂了。」

情傾溫柔 廸麗熱巴「順其自然、大傻姐」的性格，很易跟人打成一片。拍到有吃東西的場面， 她是真的吃進肚裏，NG再拍便再吃，有次拍檔周渝民忍不住笑她「再吃便胖到不連戲 了」。她直言自己不控制體重，無聊的時候總想吃點甚麼，最喜歡吃酸酸爽爽的酸奶疙 瘩。 感情方面，熱巴坦言現實中還沒有遇到那個他。但若讓她選擇，她喜歡溫柔的男 生。在她眼裏，男生的溫柔是一種力量，隨著年齡增長，更覺得溫柔是一種會讓人想繼 續了解他下去、想要和他在一起的力量。還有很重要的一點，她覺得溫柔的人應該都是 善良的，會默默地去幫助愛人，「我覺得這樣挺好，這種人應該是可以交往的。」 若是有一天遇到對的人，她說自己不怕公開。「但是我也會徵求對方同意。這種事情 應該也瞞不住，畢竟如果要在一起，也會想要出來一起拍拖，看看電影、吃飯。」

Since 2013, Dilmurat has been in more than 16 TV series and four movies. Although she is now used to being in front of the camera, she said she’s still open to learning more about acting. “I don’t know if my acting skills have improved,” she says. “I’ll let the audience decide. But I have been disciplined about watching more movies, and have been communicating more with directors.”

Before taking on new roles, Dilmurat does her homework. When she found out that in the filming of Miracles of the Namiya General Store she would have to play guitar, she worked hard at learning how; for the TV series The Flame’s Daughter, she needed to use a whip for fight scenes. So she practiced a lot, and got good at it, but that didn’t stop her from injuring herself. She ended up with a swollen eye.

DOeSn’T lISTen TO RUMOURS Dilmurat is a woman who thinks through things and makes all her own decisions. But to this more relaxed Gemini, luckily life has given her more happiness than worry. But that doesn’t mean she hasn’t encountered her share of nasty rumours. Anyone as famous as her is bound to experience an ill word here and there—like being a diva on the set of Sweet Dreams. When filming outside during the cold, an extra went inside a flower shop to warm up. Rumour has it that the director made the extra leave so Dilmurat, the star, can go inside instead. Others say she doesn’t respond well when asked for pictures or autographs. With rumors more and more frequent, the crew on Sweet Dreams came out to defend Dilmurat, praising her for her manners and professionalism.

Dilmurat is frank about her feeling bad about these kinds of stories, but understands it comes with the territory. “There was a time when I was very upset,” she says. “I didn’t know why there were so many rumours, and I didn’t know why, and didn’t know what happened. now I don’t care.”

PRefeRS A GenTle SOUl Dilmurat’s personality is easy-going and fun to be around. Contrary to rumours, she doesn’t take herself or her stardom too seriously. When scenes are shot over and over again, she will keep eating over and over again until they get the right take. even if it makes her sick. Her co-star in The Flame’s Daughter, Zhou Yimin, laughs at her: “Keep eating that way and by the end of the film you’ll be unrecognizably fatter and cause a continuity problem between the scenes.”

As for the love of her life, Dilmurat unabashedly declares that she still hasn’t found Mr. Right, but if she has a choice, she wants someone with a gentle soul, a kind and supportive man. for now she can take comfort that her career is booming with no signs of slowing down.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

41

shopping: gift guide Armani Nude Lip Ornament Duo $52 (Nordstrom)

Tom Ford flower cuff bracelet $2,247 (farfetch.com)

聖誕禮品巡禮 shopaholic fantasy

Crème de la Crème by Celine Tadrissi The Very Best Cream 75ml $37 (thisiscela.com)

‘Tis the season for giving. And nothing says love and devotion more than stuffing some of these trinkets into your Xmas stockings.

Story | Zoe Mak

Chanel maple brooch $3,225

Chanel Lizard & goldtone metal evening bag $12,875(Chanel) Van Cleef & Arpels Lotus between the finger ring $42,000 (Birks)

42

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Daniela Villegas Wirnpa ring $13,500

Bulgari Serpenti jewellery double twirl pink gold and diamonds ladies watch $95,000 (Bandiera)

Rick Owens Museum Plaid 2Fer Coast coat $6,350 (Nordstrom)

for her

Three-Piece PREVAGE® daily serum set $225 (Hudson's Bay & Shoppers Drug Mart)

Jimmy Choo Alia red crystal covered pointy toe pumps US$4,594 (Jimmy Choo)

Saint Laurent all over embroidered deep V-neck dress $43,787 Saint Laurent Jamie sandals with crystals in patent leather and fur $6,068 (Saint Laurent)

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

43

shopping: gift guide B&O H9i headphones $599 (Holt Renfrew)

Jarre Technologies Aerobull HD bluetooth speaker $2,835 (lanecrawford.com)

Baseball hat with NY Yankees patch $705 (Gucci)

Scatola del Tempo watch winder $5,000 (Bandiera) 44

ELITEGEN-CA

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Bulgari yellow gold and diamonds cufflinks $4,300 (Bandiera)

for him

Gucci Denim jacket with SF Giants patch $6,770 (Gucci)

Y/Project x UGG layered boots $1,100 (Nordstrom)

Louis Vuitton James Ping Pong set $2,560 (Louis Vuitton)

Louis Vuitton Christopher jump rope $630 (Louis Vuitton)

Tag Heuer Carrera Connected Modular smartwatch paved with white gold and 589 diamonds $245,000 (L’Oro)

L'Objet Chess Set $2,275 (Holt Renfrew)

Hermès Cavale jumping saddle $9,800 (Hermès)

OVO x Moleskine notebook $40 (OVO) ELITEGEN

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

45

shopping: gift guide Shang Xia Ming Yue travel tea set $1,550 (lanecrawford.com)

Dream of the Holidays gift set $56.95 (tealeaves.com)

Globe Trotter Collection hand-tufted wool rugs

by Marcel Wanders (Contemporains & Nouveaux Classiques) Prices upon request

Nespresso x Breville Creatista Plus $799 (Nespresso)

for home Poldo dog couture & Moncler Mondog sweater $575 (Moncler)

cat real treehouse $1,499 (pettreehouses.com)

Jay Strongwater crystal ornament $475 (Saks Fifth Avenue)

46

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

shopping: gift guide

Gucci children’s sweatshirt with “Black Cat” print $430 (Gucci)

Dolce & Gabbana hair clip with appliqué $280 (Dolce & Gabbana)

+kids

where to buy

Gucci children’s embroidered bomber jacket $2,010 (Gucci)

Gucci children’s embroidered bomber jacket $2,010 (Gucci)

Oeuf Reversible unicorn hoodie $165 (Holt Renfrew) 48

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Dolce & Gabbana leopard baby carrier $955 (Dolce & Gabbana)

Holt Renfrew Toronto – 50 Bloor St W, 416-922-2333 Vancouver – 737 Dunsmuir St, 604-681-3121 Hermès Toronto – 100 Bloor St W, 416-968-8626 Vancouver – 755 Burrard St, 604-681-9965 Chanel Toronto – 98 Yorkville Ave, 416-925-2577 Vancouver – 737 Dunsmuir St, 604-682-0522 Gucci Toronto – 130 Bloor St W, 416-963-5127 Vancouver – 900 W Georgia St, 604-488-0320 Louis Vuitton Toronto – 150 Bloor St W, 416-968-3993 Vancouver – 730 Burrard St, 604-696-9404 Dolce & Gabbana Toronto –111 Bloor St W, 416-921-1939 Vancouver – 737 Dunsmuir St, 604-681-3121 Saint Laurent Toronto – Yorkdale Mall, 416-256-3888 Vancouver – 746 Thurlow St, 778-373-2190 Nordstrom Toronto – 260 Yonge St, 416 552- 2900 Vancouver - 799 Robson St, 604-699-2100 Birks Toronto –55 Bloor St W, 416-922-2266 Vancouver – 698 W Hastings St, 604-669-3333 Jimmy Choo Toronto – Yorkdale Mall, 416-787-6240 Vancouver – 1035 Alberni St, 604-800-5935 Berani Jewellers Toronto – 2901 Bayview Ave, 416-227-9200 Vancouver – berani.ca L’Oro Jewellery Toronto – 25 The West Mall, 416-622-9400 Vancouver – loro.ca Saks Fifth Avenue Toronto – 176 Yonge St, 416-507-3100 Vancouver – saksfifthavenue.com Moncler Toronto – 131 Bloor St West, 647-350-7400 Vancouver – 748 Thurlow St, 604-673-9111 Nespresso Toronto – 176 Yonge St, 1-855-325-5781 Vancouver – 674 Granville St, 1-855-325-5781 Bandiera Jewellers Toronto –123 Yorkville Ave, 416-642-8806 Vancouver – bandierajewellers.com OVO Toronto – Yorkdale Mall, 416-551-0870 Vancouver – octobersveryown.com Contemporains & Nouveaux Classiques Toronto – 101 Parliament St, 416-366-3273 Vancouver – 716 W Hastings St, 604-633-5005

Christmas speCial supplement

感受聖誕

Shifting into holiday mode with

Oakridge Centre 每年臨近聖誕節期間，總會比平時更想到商場去，不單是要選購林 林總總的禮物，還希望感受那分濃濃的節日氣氛，因為再怎樣悉心為家 居布置聖誕裝飾，也不及商場那麼別出心裁和璀璨奪目，更何況置身於 人來人往的環境中，格外感到温馨愉快。 擁有超過130家商鋪的Oakridge Centre是溫哥華最受歡迎的人氣室 內商場，時尚品牌、潮流新品雲集，是一站式的購物熱點。今年還新推 出設想周到的服務，打算跟聖誕老人合照的話，可先上網預約拍攝時間。

As Vancouver’s prestige enclosed shopping experience, Oakridge Centre caters to the discerning customer with a sense of luxury and sophistication.

With over 130 stores, Oakridge delivers a dynamic retail mix from Harry Rosen, Marc Cain and Tiffany & Co., to specialty brands including Coach, Boys’Co., Max Mara, Stuart Weitzman, DKNY, and destination worthy offerings like Apple, Lego, and the city’s exclusive Crate & Barrel. Well located, at once upscale and family friendly, Oakridge is the place to enjoy an espresso, lunch with the besties, get that Tesla detailed as you glam up for the season, and find the latest “it” items - from the everyday to the extraordinary must-have.

New this year, customers can enjoy a “Fast Pass” option, book their time in advance at oakridgecentre.com to take a photo with Santa Claus.

La Maison Valmont

Storie Veneziane, “Verde Erba I”, capture a moment of grace with this rich spring-like bouquet, $550.

Rodeo Jewellers GUCCI Dionysus bracelet in 18kt yellow gold and enamel, made in Italy, $10,405.

Frank Muller – Vanguard Men’s Collection “Skeleton”, rose gold 18kt, $59,500.

50

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

DKNY Leopard “Corrie” fur ankle booties, $238.

Godiva Chocolates Luscious holiday truffles filled with milk, dark and white chocolate, $37.5.

Judith & Charles Odessa Sweater-Black Hero, exposed centre back zipper, $325.

節日期間營業時間 Extended Holiday Hours： December 3 - December 23 Monday - Saturday: 9:30am - 9:00pm Sunday: 10:00am - 7:00pm Christmas Eve, December 24 9:30am - 5:00pm Christmas Day, December 25 Closed Boxing Day, December 26 9:00am - 7:00pm New Year's Eve, December 31 9:30am - 5:00pm New Year's Day, January 1 11:00am - 6:00pm

Sugarfina Champagne Bento Boxcandies made from Dom Perignon Vintage Champagne, $64.95.

oakridgecentre.com ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

51

Runway: paRis

Saint Laurent性感定義 Anthony Vaccarello表現出聖羅蘭大師的中 性帥氣，亦發揮出性感無邊的個人魅力。60年代 的西裝tailoring配搭星星裝飾、牛仔靴及頭帶， 渾身瀟灑搖滾態度，超短熱褲更是隱藏不住的性 感。壓軸的一系列黑紗與豹紋，盡是70年代的 Diva影子，前衞大膽的高衩與cutout細節，自信 形象讓人讚歎。

Sexy redefined Anthony Vaccarello does justice to the synonymous gender-free charm of ySL while pushing the envelope with provocative sex appeal. Suit tailoring of the 1960s is juxtaposed with starry accents, cowboy boots and hair bands to reinterpret that good ole rock ‘n’ roll.

巴黎春夏時裝周

Paris Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019 巴黎時裝創新大膽，風格上如光譜般的無盡，場地、選 角、形式都叫人喜出望外。獨有的包容度與藝術悟性，正 正造就了只可意會的French Chic吧！ An infinite spectrum of artistic inspiration redefines that je ne sais quoi of French chic Story | Lucas Tang

52

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Dior舞者靈魂 舞蹈講求節奏、動感與音樂，品牌新季向現 代舞致敬，以裸色緊身舞衣為基礎，以流麗芭蕾 舞紗裙、絲帶舞鞋點綴，浪漫極致。輕柔基本款 混合bar jacket、恤衫及漂染牛仔衫褲，增添現 代質感。

SouLfuL dAnce Giving a nod to contemporary dance, the collection includes nude-coloured, body-hugging canvas costumes and fluid ballet dresses underscoring a return to the romantic.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

53

Runway: paRis Valentino活出真我 主帥Pierpaolo Piccioli以自由烏托邦為靈 感，渴望活出真我個性。Cocoon裙裝、蕾絲 pajamas、不對稱斗篷、褶飾雪紡晚裝，煥發高 貴couture質感，美不勝收。配飾系列主打休閒 風，大型草帽、羽毛裝飾涼鞋及tote bag。黑紅 為主要用色，再加上繽紛的熱帶print及彩色條子 印花，以羽毛及珠片加持，華麗非凡。

TruTh Serum design chief Pierpaolo Piccioli takes inspiration from a utopian world and the desire to be true to oneself. Whether a cocoon dress, lace pajamas, asymmetrical cape or pleated chiffon evening dress, Valentino always imbues his collections with an essence of couture chic.

54

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Givenchy男女呼應 Clare Waight Keller為Givenchy新季帶來 Annemarie Schwarzenbach，一名活在百年前 喜愛中性打扮的作家，以鏡子，男女風格互相呼 應為主題。真空西裝配軍褲、闊袍恤衫裙等，卻 襯以一抹鮮紅唇攝魂。晚裝備有綴上褶飾與碎 花的低腰長裙，又或是盔甲般釘飾點綴的cape dress，形象外剛內柔。

Gender bender mirroring and transcending the gender divide, clare Waight Keller takes her style cue from writer, journalist, photographer and traveler Annemarie Schwarzenbach, who owned the unisex look almost a century ago.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

55

Runway: paRis

Chloé嬉皮之旅 Natacha Ramsay-Levi的Chloé新系列正切 合cool girl要求—休閒、自在、表現個性、性感 卻又反文化。以現代嬉皮士為藍本，物料選材別 具vintage質感，絲巾、提花、紥染和麻布，交織 出旅人品味。大串耳環、頸鏈，以及衣服上的貝 殼刺繡與寶石釘飾，像是旅途紀念品，道出一幕 幕難忘回憶。

TriPPy hiPPy designer natacha ramsay-Levi has everything for counterculture cool. Styled after the 1960s hippy, the looks screams vintage.

56

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Hermès奢華動力 設計師Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski並沒在品 牌的馬術歷史上大造文章，女模身穿以水手服 為靈感的皮裙，腳踏搭帶涼鞋，低調高雅。精 緻皮褸綴有撞色車線，配襯Laurence Owen的 珍貴鈕釦，強調品牌製皮工藝。索繩mesh細節 為系列增添運動態度，還有桃紅、鮮橙、天藍 monotone大膽用色，簡潔有力。

PoWer houSe Taking a breather from the brand’s equestrian heritage, designer nadege Vanhee-cybulski looks to a sailor-inspired theme for its signature understated elegance.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

57

Runway: paRis

Gucci劇場夢 雌雄莫辨的男女裝，意識大膽。七彩羽毛 裝、流蘇show girl裙、pop print 拼格紋西裝，活 像道具室內的即興mix & match，飾品系列亦夠 浮誇，米奇老鼠手袋、超厚底木屐、閃石孭帶背 囊……齊齊登場。

TheATricAL hiGhS The tomboy designs may be bold, but there is no shortage of feminine feathers or tasseled showgirl dresses with over-the-top accessories.

58

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Alexander McQueen女戰神 Sarah Burton為品牌帶來更真切的女性情 感，鼓勵女性在堅強的同時，亦不要怕展露弱小 一面。新系列依舊是手工超凡的浪漫裙裝，綴以 取材英國西部古蹟的印花及英倫刺繡，煥發古典 氣息。還有品牌拿手的西裝，盔甲般剪裁及鏤空 細節意識大膽，配搭bondage味道的鏈飾，頓時 感覺硬氣起來。

WArrior PrinceSS With this collection heavy on vintage accents, designer Sarah burton encourages women to be bold but powerful enough to show vulnerability. The brand’s signature suits show silhouettes suggestive of armour with daring details and bondage-like acessories giving the collection an instant edge.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

59

Runway: Milan

米蘭春夏時裝周

Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2019

米蘭時裝周容或不及巴黎來的矚目，卻不乏具分量的品牌坐 鎮，那分自成一格的時尚態度和party all night的熱情氣氛， 米蘭時裝周還是很有睇頭！

Milan Fashion Week may be overshadowed by the Paris event, but there is never a dearth of luxury brands on these catwalks Story | Lucas Tang

Tod's輕量級 首度將男女裝系列合併同台，女裝系列以皮 革為主軸，輕盈皮革貼服身軀，充分發揮意大利 傳統工藝，亦展現皮革的休閒時尚。蛇皮西裝褸 配同物料領巾、拼接麖皮拉鏈外套，精緻皮品襯 搭織錦圖案長……形象瀟灑不拘束。經典流蘇設 計裁成羽毛裝飾，為設計增添couture質感，全 新水桶袋款亦相當亮眼。

Lightweight Leather Men’s and women’s collections were staged together at tod’s for the first time. the women’s collection of lightweight body hugging leather is a showcase of traditional italian artistry. a snakeskin suit jacket is paired with a neckerchief of the same material with a suede zipped jacket on top. and classic meets chic with leather set against brocade. Classic tassels are turned into feathery trimmings, adding a couture touch. and the new bucket bag is an eye-popper.

60

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Fendi狠角色 一邊是熱帶雨林的繽紛印花，另一邊廂則是 富功能性的工作服輪廓，Fendi讓口袋、腰帶等 細節成了造型亮點。透明PVC拼湊皮革的外套及 短裙提升玩味，綴有電路版紋路的背心及單車褲 摩登型格。品牌手袋系列同樣是主角，多功能腰 包、專為Peekaboo而設的DeFender防水外袋， 還有傳奇Baguette的回歸，換上特大尺寸及飾上 粗孭帶，更符合現今女生的眼光。

takes no prisoners one side is covered in a tropic print, the other a functional work-cloth silhouette with pockets and belts as highlights. a jacket in transparent pVC and leather looks super urban paired with circuit board prints and bike pants. Multi-functional pouches, the peekaboo and the return of the legendary Baguette bag are sure to capture the imagination of the fashionista.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

61

Runway: Milan

Prada不完美的完美 模特兒戴著粗頭箍粗框鏡，手拿復古包， 看似傳統保守，但Prada是刻意破壞傳統的和諧， 成就只屬Prada的奇幻世界。新季備有復古幾 何、紮染、迷幻都市繪圖，印在低胸bodysuit及 孖襟大褸上，是60年代的全新詮釋。系列另一主 題則是制服，色丁短褲、綴翻領的針織衫、透視 長襪、couture處理手法打造的白T恤等，自由奔 放的態度完全顛覆了制服的定義。

iMperfeCt perfeCtion Chunky glasses, heavy headbands and vintage bags come together to disrupt the conventional to create a fantasy world that exemplifies prada. the new season reinterprets the 1960s, ushering in retro geometry, tie dye and psychedelic metropolitan prints on low-cut bodysuits and doublebreasted coats.

62

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Dolce & Gabbana獨特基因 Dolce指出每個人均擁有獨特DNA，是各自 的女皇。新季品牌把設計師的指紋投射於T台， 並動員多位名人行騷，跨越年齡、性向、尺碼的 界線，展現其大愛形象。150個造型中絕不能少 得花裙、corset dress、精緻西裝，但亦出現些 新鮮輪廓，如宮殿corset配軍褲，減輕了極致女 人味，卻更能與街頭接軌。

genetiCaLLy unique at D&g each woman is her own queen, aiming to transcend the boundaries of age, sexual orientation and size—in a word, independent. among the 150 looks are printed dresses, corset dresses and superb suits, as well as new silhouettes such as a royal corset and army pants ensemble to help mute femininity while pushing a more rugged sense of style.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

63

Runway: Milan

Giorgio Armani形與色 新季的主題將情感融入色彩，色彩塑造形 態，變幻過程中流露著品牌永恒的優雅。金屬灰 色裙裝與pantsuit、泡泡剪裁背心襯搭透視長褲， 以及動感的流蘇jumpsuit，一系列靈動似水的作 品柔美精緻，且充滿力量。

MuteD tones regardless of current trends, this brand’s everlasting elegance always shines through. whether a metallic grey dress-suit or pantsuit or a bubblecut vest with see-through pants and a whimsically tasseled jumpsuit, giorgio armani may be the king of italian classics, but this brand always makes room for some fun and frolic.

64

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Versace萬花筒 印花無疑是新季主角，繽紛迷你印花裙外搭 薄紗layer，密實造型卻勾勒出婀娜女人味，成就 Versace Woman的獨有光環。印花昇華至立體釘 花，一樣的層次配搭，精巧的手工質感則更顯奢 華。筆挺西裝剪裁配襯喇叭褲，帥氣風範充滿懾 人魅力。

kaLeiDosCopiC prints are the big stars for the Versace spring season. the Little Black Dreas trimmed with a layer of chiffon dotted with colourful prints reinvents the Versace woman. Look a little closer and notice that the flowers are actually threedimensional, with texture taking on a whole new role.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

65

Runway: Milan

Jil Sander現代制服 今季設計師Lucie和Luke Meier要在奠 定的基礎上尋找新意，起點由制服開始， monochrome配色、寬鬆靈活剪裁，皆是鮮明的 品牌基調，時而加添有趣變奏如水手領、前後倒 轉的西裝褸、oversized袖口，發掘出不同結構與 輪廓。

uniforM styLe Designers Lucie and Luke Meier find new twists for tried and true silhouettes. they start with their signature uniform in a monochrome palette with versatile cuts and this season add variety with the creation of sailor collars, back-to-front tailored jackets and oversized cuffs.

66

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Roberto Cavalli性感汗水 對於擁有豐富男裝經驗的主帥Paul Surridge 來說，裸露不再代表新一代Cavalli，運動的力量 與汗水才是性感來源。新季強調腿部與腰間， cropped top配襯中空背心裙、單車褲外搭西裝 褸，煥發年輕健美態度。經典動物圖紋變得抽 象，配搭起來零負擔。還有北非民族印圖，為造 型注入自由氣息。

sweat is sexy paul surridge, well respected in men’s fashion, looks to the energy and sweat of exercise as his sexy signature in a new age for roberto Cavalli.

Legs and waists are the highlight of the new season. outfitted in a cropped top and jumper dress with a daring neckline plunging below the waist and bike pants topped with a tailored jacket, this designer always knows how to show off youthful vitality.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

67

exhibition

超越創意的時裝

Celebrating couture Fashion designer Guo Pei turns dream of the extraordinary into reality Story & photography | Iris Yim 「我不喜歡時裝。」時尚界天之驕子郭培竟然這 樣說。

Guo Pei, one of today’s hottest fashion icons, could be heard saying, “I don’t like fashion.”

對郭培來說，時裝的周期太短了，半年或一 年，新季的潮流就淘汰上一季的流行元素。作為中 國第一代接受時裝設計專業訓練的設計師，她追求 的設計要有生命力、可以經受年月洗禮，在百年之 後觀之又或是在館藏鑑賞時，依然可以打動人心， 正如她在歐洲的美術館欣賞前人工藝傑作時深受感 動一樣。所以，她認為自己努力創作於高級訂製服 (Haute Couture)可說是一種生命的停駐，多少年 後，它的存在就是時光的回眸。她說：「它能重新演 繹我曾經擁有過的幸福，及所創造過的美好。」

A paradoxical statement? One might think so. She believes modern-day fashion cycles are too short. The prevailing season becomes dated as soon as the new season’s trends are unveiled. For her, fashion should be classic.

推動發展 郭培是唯一受邀參加巴黎高級時裝協會的中國 設計師，也是亞洲高級時裝協會的終身會員。她推 動了中國高級訂製服的發展，成為該時裝領域的權 威藝術家。 郭培三十年前從北京二輕工業學校畢業後，曾 有十年從事成衣設計，流水作業及市場所限讓她感 嘆無法實現很多自己的創意和理想。因而毅然轉型 到高級訂製服設計行列，箇中路途絕不平坦。要知 道，她來自一整代從千人一面的黑灰藍服飾中走過 來的時代，九十年代中期的中國時裝界也只是起步 階段，更遑論甚麼是高級訂製服了；時為「文革」之 後，其時要找精通刺繡技法的繡工也是難上加難。 但心之所繫，讓郭培義無反顧地作出了即使把投放 其至耗盡所有積蓄也得走下去的決心。

68

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Part of China’s first generation of professionally trained designers, Guo pursues creations that can withstand the test of time and is moved by the classic works of fashion greats celebrated in European art galleries.

She thinks haute couture is a way of preserving a moment in time, giving future generations a glimpse into the past. Says Guo: “Couture shows how blessed I have been about the beauty I once created.”

Guo is the only Chinese fashion designer invited to join the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode and is a life member of the Asian Couture Federation. She has been instrumental in promoting the development of haute couture in China.

After graduating from the Beijing No. 2 Light Industry General Company Cadre School 30 years ago, Guo worked in apparel design for about 10 years. She was frustrated that the production model and the market didn’t give her room to express her creativity. As a result, she decided to switch to couture.

It was a very bumpy ride, for that generation was content with the standard-issue blue or grey Mao suit. In the mid1990s, the Chinese fashion world was still in its infancy and there was no couture to speak of. Post-Cultural Revolution, skilled embroiderers were hard to find, but she was not fazed.

She was ready to bet her life savings on her dream.

「一千零二夜」 系列(2010年)明黃色是只有清朝 皇室才可以採用的衣服顏色，這件長袍用了 55磅真絲，並以24K金線和純銀絲線來作立 體刺繡。 “One Thousand and Two Nights”, 2010 Imperial yellow was a colour exclusive to the Qing court. The gown is made with 55 pounds of silk, using 24K gold-spun threads and pure silver threads for the embroidery.

(Photo: courtesy of SCAD)

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

69

exhibition

(Photo: Courtesy of SCAD)

(Photo: Courtesy of SCAD)

70

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018 (Photo: Courtesy of SCAD)

毋忘初心 在專業領域中不斷探索，郭培曾連續十年為中國中 央電視台《春節聯歡晚會》主持人和重要表演者設計服飾。 2008年北京奥運會頒獎禮服、國際巨星章子怡在雅典聖火 採集儀式上穿著的刺繡龍紋和水紋白色禮服、2009年宋祖 英在《春晚》表演時穿的白色禮服並於瞬間變為色彩奪目的 花花禮服等等，全都出自她手筆。 讓全球視野聚焦於郭培創作藝術的，是2015年著名歌 手Rihanna穿著她的「一千零二夜」明黃色長袍出席紐約大都 會藝術博物館慈善晚宴(Met Gala)。豪華大氣的五米長袍襬 上的金銀線刺繡，將郭培重視細節力求完美的設計特點表 露無遺。之後，郭培登上《時代雜誌》「100位最具影響力人 物」及《Business Magazine》的「Fashion’ s 500」排行榜。 郭 培 擁 有 大 批 名 人「 鐵 粉 」， 楊 瀾 、 范 冰 冰 、 宋 祖英、章子怡多次穿上她的高級訂製禮服。黃曉明和 Angelababy、吳奇隆和劉詩詩結婚時穿的中式禮服也是由 她設計。Lady Gaga也曾表示有興趣想穿上她的作品，不 過，郭培實在太專注於她的創作，不會花時間做公關或在 名利場打交道，當時甚至連誰是Lady Gaga和Rihanna都弄 不清楚。這二十年來一直堅守著自己對美的理解和表達， 精益求精。 在「郭培：超越時裝」展覽中，大家可以回顧郭培設 計的演變過程，並有機會目睹其最具代表性的四十多套作 品。全都結合了無窮想像力與精湛手工藝，展現震撼人心 的魅力，代表著極致華美的女性夢想，而郭培便是那位把 夢化為現實的設計師。

AN OLyMPIAN OF DESIGN Always striving to reach new heights, Guo designed the dresses for the emcees and performers of the CCTV New Year’s Gala for a decade. She also designed the ceremonial dresses for the awards ceremony at the 2008 Beijing Olympics, the dragon and water embroidered white dress that Zhang Ziyi wore to the Olympic torch-lighting ceremony in Athens, and the white dress that turned vibrantly colourful worn by Song Zuying for her performance at the 2009 New Year’s Gala show.

Guo caught global attention with the imperial yellow fur-trimmed cape that Rihanna made famous at the Met Gala in 2015 (pictured page 68). The magnificent five-metre-long cape was embroidered with gold thread, showcasing Guo’s attention to detail. Since then, Guo has ranked amongst the Time Magazine ”100 most influential people” most influential people and Business Magazine’s “Fashion’s 500”.

Chinese A-listers, such as yang Lan, Fan Bingbing, Song Zuying and Zhang Ziyi, are die-hard Guo fans, having appeared in her designs on multiple occasions. She also designed the Chinese-style wedding dresses for celebrity couples Huang Xiaoming and Angelababy, and Nicky Wu and Liu Shishi. Lady Gaga also expressed interest in wearing her designs.

Guo has never been interested in gaining publicity and networking as she single-mindedly pursued her goals. She admits that, initially, she didn’t even know who Lady Gaga was. Over the past 20 years, she has cared more about selfexpression and taking her designs to new levels.

At the “Guo Pei: Couture Beyond” exhibition, one can trace Guo’s design journey and admire more than 40 of her exceptional creations. They exemplify her imagination and exquisite artistry, and show astounding energy in turning a woman’s dream of the extraordinary into reality. 「郭培：超越時裝」 展覽 地點：溫哥華美術館 日期：即日至2019年1月20日 Guo Pei: Couture Beyond Vancouver Art Gallery Until Jan. 20, 2019 vanartgallery.bc.ca ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

71

the Beauty pages: skincare

為換膚重新定義

Peel technology transformed Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment is your jumpstart on skin renewal Story | Sidney Chao

$215 Peel角質軟化換膚無疑是為皮膚脫胎換骨的理想選擇， 卻令人顧慮會為過敏性皮膚帶來困擾，有可能引致紅疹、 脫皮。Elizabeth Arden的Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment為換膚重新定義，強力有效的4周換膚套裝，能輕 柔去除表皮細胞，促進自然細胞生成。 全新的換膚治療套裝，採用多羥酸，混合有強力抗氧化 效果的艾地苯醌，幫助肌膚更新，保護新生皮膚細胞抵受環 境破壞，令肌膚清新、亮麗、色澤均勻。 這個系列獨一無二的是其循序漸進地加強的配方，每一 小瓶包含7天的用量，配方逐個星期加強，以期達到最佳效 果，將出現刺激的機會降到最低，4星期之後皮膚老化跡象明 顯消失。 治療配方中有4種成分專門針對皮膚老化及黯淡無光問 題：多羥酸Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA)、果酸Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)、艾地苯醌Idebenone及酸碱緩沖劑。PHA和AHA 能去除皮膚表面的角質，輕柔蛻掉死皮細胞，促進自然細胞 生成。PHA是一種新果酸，是過敏皮膚的恩物，因為更大的 分子微粒能減少刺激，提供更多滋潤。按照使用次序，小瓶 所含的果酸濃度會逐步增加，以期達到最理想的皮膚新陳代 謝效果，減低刺激機會。而有酸碱緩沖作用的磷酸盬，令治 療期間的皮膚維持在低酸碱值，加強換膚效果。艾地苯醌能 促進抗氧化，對抗因為環境造成的衰老現象。 使用1周後，肌膚光彩和亮麗度重現；2周後幼紋和粗大 毛孔開始消失；3周後較深的皺紋減少，完成整個程序後，皮 膚的色澤會變得均勻，顯得更加年青。

72

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

What better to dramatically transform skin than with a peel. Historically, they have also been known to irritate sensitive skin, causing uncomfortable redness and flaking. Enter Prevage Progressive Renewal Treatment, redefining skincare peels with a powerful four-week resurfacing regimen that gently exfoliates surface skin cells and enhances natural cell turnover.

The new breakthrough peel technology that uses Polyhydroxy Acid mixed with powerful antioxidant Idebenone helps jumpstart skin renewal and protect newly-revealed skin cells from environmental aggressors. Skin is fresh, glowing and evenly toned.

But what makes this system unique is its progressively stronger formulas.

Each ampoule contains a seven day supply and every week the formula becomes more powerful—optimizing efficacy and minimizing the potential for irritation. Watch for visibly diminished signs of aging in just four weeks.

Four complementary elements address visible signs of aging and lackluster tone: Polyhydroxy Acid (PHA), Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), Idebenone and a pH Buffer: PHA and AHA resurface the skin as they exfoliate, gently sloughing off dead skin cells and enhancing natural cell turnover. PHA, a new age Hydroxy Acid, is game-changing for sensitive skin because its larger molecule size is less irritating and more moisturizing.

Each ampoule delivers increasingly higher concentrations of Hydroxy Acids that prepares skin over time for optimal resurfacing benefits with less potential for irritation; pH buffering Phosphate Salts help maintain low pH on skin during use so that the low pH formula can more effectively resurface skin; Idebenone is a supercharged antioxidant that helps to protect against environmental aggressors that lead to the visible signs of premature aging.

After week one, radiance and clarity are restored; after week two, fine lines and pores appear diminished; deeper lines appear reduced after week three and finally tone is evened and skin looks younger.

the Beauty pages: sKIN CaRe

Story & photography | Ava Liu

博主劉夢婷： 「護膚愈早愈好」

Well hello, beautiful Local blogger Ava Liu says it's never too early for a skincare regimen As a youth I never really paid much attention to the skincare craze. Sure, I washed my face but that was about it. But now only in my 20’s, I’m noticing my skin changing: If I don’t use sunscreen, dark spots are more visible; If I don’t exfoliate regularly, my skin looks dull and foundation application becomes more difficult. I was so used to my skin bouncing back that it never occurred to me to take notice. Now, I actually have to be careful?

作為年青人，我從來不太注重肌膚護理。所謂護理，洗 個臉就完了。可是20來歲的我已發覺到皮膚正在起變化：不 搽防曬用品，黑斑會較以前明顯；不定期去角質死皮，肌膚 看起來便黯淡無光，粉底變得難搽……我是不是該小心了？ 真實體驗過，才明白愈早認真保養肌膚，愈能延緩衰老 的道理。現在我要做的是清潔和保濕，這兩樣對於在加拿大 生活尤為重要，乾燥的天氣、寒暑氣候反差都不利肌膚。雖 然還只是24歲，但也輕慢不得，於是到處搜尋適合自己的護 膚產品。 終於找到了！ NEOSTRATA ® 是專業級的抗衰老護膚品 牌；專注於透過去除表皮角質死皮，令皮層去舊生新，重煥 光彩。產品由清潔肌膚、減少幼紋和皺紋、滋潤肌膚深層到 防曬各種功能都有，適用於任何年齡和皮膚類型。 我先從Enlighten Dual Acid Brightening Peel開始，這對 我是全新的體驗：用化妝棉搽在乾爽的皮膚上，15-20分鐘後 清洗，再進行日常的護膚程序。當中所含有的20%果酸Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)換膚成分，去除肌膚表層角質功效奇佳。 第二天已感覺到肌膚變得幼滑，一整天T位的油脂都減少了。 至於Enlighten Brightening Complex是絕不油膩的滋養 劑，能提供大量水分。 皮膚死皮去掉之後會變得薄弱，更容易被紫外光傷害， 最是需要做好防曬。Defend Sheer Hydration Sunscreen有卓 越保護作用，令肌膚在去除角質之後更快恢復。 含有果酸AHA的產品都比較強力，間歇使用效果更佳。 謹記切莫在眼部周圍使用哦！

NEOSTRATA®有多種產品，針對不同年齡的需要，效果 顯著，然而肌膚可能需要時間適應，建議逐步添加產品。

74

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

The bottom line is the sooner you start taking your skin seriously, the sooner you can slow down the signs of aging. Right now my regimen is to focus on clarity and hydration. And living in Canada doesn’t help either. The dry weather and drastic climate changes between summer and winter also contribute to an unstable skin condition. Now at only 24, I am constantly trying to redeem my skin’s health, always searching for products that work best for me.

Well, I think I have found one. NEOSTRATA®is a physician grade antiaging skincare brand; the belief is that visible results come from renewing the layers of the skin through resurfacing (exfoliation). From cleansing to reducing the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles, to hydrating the inner skin layers, and to UV protection, NEOSTRATA® is able to help skin of every age and condition.

I began with the Enlighten Dual Acid Brightening Peel—a new concept to me. All you have to do is apply it on dry skin with a cotton pad, leave on for 15-20 minutes, and rinse, followed by a regular skincare routine. It contains 20% alpha and poly hydroxy acid (AHA/PHA) chemical peel, which is well-known for exfoliating skin cells on the surface of the skin. The next day my skin was much smoother due to the removal of dead skin.

Plus it was less oily around the T zone throughout the day.

The Enlighten Brightening Complex is a light, nongreasy lotion that delivers multiple ingredients to help provide a brighter, more even appearance.

With regular exfoliation, daily sunscreen is a must to protect against the sun’s harmful UV rays. The Defend Sheer Hydration Sunscreen shields your skin against UV, lightly hydrating and protecting new skin after exfoliation.

Skincare containing AHA concentrates are very powerful products, therefore, be sure to allow your skin to acclimate with each new product and remember to use products formulated especially for the eye area around the eyes.

深層滋潤透亮眼部精華素

INTENSIVE HYALURONIC EYE CONTOUR SERUM Story | Sidney Chao 女性眼部周圍的皮膚嬌嫩薄弱，也是皺紋和幼紋 等衰老跡象最早出現的部位，需要格外悉心護理。隨 著年齡增長，眼皮下的脂肪組織減少，特別是眼睛以 下位置，容易出現凹陷，眼周變得晦暗，整個臉容看 起來會顯得疲勞，缺乏生氣。 Institut Esthederm推出的全新Intensive Hyaluronic深層滋潤眼部精華素，是皮膚醫學界的創 新傑作。輕盈清新的精華素能調節及補充眼眶養分， 讓本來出現疲態的淚溝部位重現光采。 Intensive Hyaluronic眼部精華素含有三種透明質 酸分子，能同時滋養表皮和真皮，豐潤眼眶，減褪皺 紋，並且為眼部周圍提供深層滋潤。所採用的抗衰老 科技，配合三種活躍成分（咖啡因、魯斯可皂苷元及 肌肽），能有效對抗黑眼圈及眼部浮腫。此高濃度精 華素既可單獨使用，又或是於塗敷後，再使用日常眼 部護理用品。

For every woman, the thin, fragile skin around the eyes needs particular attention and care. This is the area where signs of aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines, first appear. As we age, tear troughs hollow — the result of a reduction in the fatty structure beneath the eyelids. The eye area darkens, becomes more prominent and gives the face a tired appearance.

The new Hyaluronic Eye Contour Serum is a real innovation in the dermo-esthetic world. For the first time, this light and fresh serum combines tear trough filling with a draining and reviving action.

With a combination of three hyaluronic acid molecular weights acting upon the epidermis and the dermis, this serum plumps the tear trough, corrects wrinkles and intensely hydrates the eye contour area. It is combined with an anti-fatigue technology and a synergy of three active ingredients (caffeine, ruscogenin and carnosine) to combat dark circles and puffiness.

Formulated as a highly concentrated serum, this new product can be used alone, or as part of your daily eye contour treatment.

15ml | $59

ELITEGEN

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

75

the Beauty pages: sKINCaRe a

c

植物美顏

Plant-based beauty products

d

Story | Angel Leung Photography | Julio Miguel

以植物為主要成分的護膚品，不但具有 出色的修護功效，而且不容易造成肌膚 敏感，難怪成為都巿人的護膚潮流。 Skincare products that are primarily plant-based are both restorative and hypo-allergenic. That’s why they are quickly becoming the favourites of urban society

76

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

b

嚴選精華 改善乾燥 冬季肌膚容易乾燥，建議選用混和水分和油分的精華， 用後有助加強肌膚的吸收能力。揀選精華時，可特別留意其 植物成分和功效，如天竺葵能調節機能平衡；紅海藻有助增 強肌膚緊緻度；薑黃萃取則能具收細毛孔。

HigHly SelecTive eSSenceS THaT reduce dryneSS dry skin is common in winter, so it’s best to choose essences that balance water and oil to help enhance the skin’s absorption power. it is important to pay attention to their plant-based ingredients and their effects. For instance, geranium is effective in regulating the balance of functions, red seaweed can help firm the skin and turmeric extract can shrink pores.

e f

a. THREE Aiming Facial Oil Essence 蘊含茴香精油、天竺葵精油及玫瑰精油，其中天竺葵精油既能調節機 能平衡，其甜香亦令人恢復朝氣活力。 This essence contains fennel, geranium and rose essential oils.

Geranium essential oil regulates the balance of skin functions and its sweet aroma is energizing. b. Biotherm Blue Therapy Red Algae Uplift Intensive Daily Firming Cure 15ml $64 (biotherm.ca) 蘊含紅海藻成分，有助增強肌膚的緊緻度、提升輪廓及撫平皺紋。 With red algae, this product enhances the skin’s firmness. It improves contours, as well as smoothing wrinkles. c. Clarins Double Serum 30ml $89 (clarins.ca) 薑黃萃取為主要成分，另加入二十種抗衰老植物萃取，既有助緊緻肌 膚，亦具收細毛孔之效。 This serum has turmeric as its main ingredient, and also contains 20 kinds of anti-aging botanical extracts. Not only does it firm up the skin, but it also shrinks pores.

g

d. ETVOS Moisturizing Serum 50ml $96 (yesstyle.com) 蘊含羅馬洋甘菊、金盞花及矢車菊等成分，另混入荷荷巴油及乳木果 油，適合乾燥及敏感肌膚。 Containing Roman chamomile, calendula and cornflower, and blended with jojoba oil and shea butter, this product is perfect for dry and sensitive skin.

爽膚補水 潔面後，切記要塗上爽膚水，可有效提升後續護膚品的吸 收力；而部分爽膚水內含能刺激膠原蛋白的檸檬百里香，又或 是有助抗氧化的意大利西柚成分，是延緩青春的不二之選。

Toning and HydraTing after cleansing, it is important to apply a toner, which helps enhance the skin’s ability to absorb other skincare products.

Some toners contain lemon thyme, which stimulates collagen production, or italian grapefruit, which helps fight oxidation. Both are perfect choices to maintain youthful skin. e. Helena Rubinstein Re-PLASTY Light Peel Daily Glow Activator Resurfacing Lotion 150ml $205 (strawberrynet.com) 蘊含植物萃取、甘醇酸及水楊酸等成分，去除老化角質層，有助肌膚 吸收後續的護膚產品。 This product contains plant extracts, glycolic acid and salicylic acid, and is effective in removing dead skin cells, as well as helping the skin absorb subsequent skin-care products. f. Clarins Extra-Firming Treatment Essence 其主要成分檸檬百里香能刺激膠原蛋白，製造出更結實的膠原蛋白纖 維，持續使用，能令肌膚重拾緊緻及富彈性。 With lemon thyme as its main ingredient, this toner stimulates collagen production. If used consistently, it helps restore the skin’s firmness and elasticity.

h

g. Giorgio Armani Crema Nera Extrema Acqua Pantelleria 150ml $165 (armani-beauty.ca) 極緻再生精華活膚水加入了非洲再生植物精華、意大利西柚及維他命E， 發揮抗氧化功效，令肌膚回復生氣。 This ultimate revitalizing essence is infused with a blend of African botanical extracts, Italian grapefruit and vitamin E. It is effective as an antioxidant and helps revitalize the skin. h. BIOEFFECT Micellar Cleansing Water 200ml $95 (thebioeffect.ca) 配方提取自植物成分，並蘊含礦物質如鈣、鎂及鈉等，用後可輕鬆去除面 上油脂及污垢，兼具保濕作用。 This product contains botanical extracts, as well as calcium, magnesium and sodium. It removes oils and impurities from the skin, and hydrates at the same time.

ELITEGEN

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

77

the beauty pages: scents

要在充滿喜樂的季節選一瓶相襯的香氛？Christian Dior新面世的 Joy是不二之選。 此Joy可不同Joy by Jean Patou，而是Christian Dior繼其經典香 氛J’ adore整整20年後，首次重點推出的香氛。產品設計師Franç ois Demachy形容：「為光作一種嗅覺的詮釋，本身就是一種非凡的喜樂 感受。」 電視廣告中，但見作為Joy代言人的Jennifer Lawrence悠然飄逸 地在水中嬉戲。有人戲言伊能作代言人，皆因其於2015年主演的電 影《Joy》，全球票房達55億元；事實上，還主演過《Red Sparrow》和 《Hunger Games》系列的她，不但演技超卓，更是歷來唯一一位奪得 奧斯卡最佳女主角獎的90後，由她代言實是理所當然。 香氛的頂調是果香濃郁的佛手柑和柑橘，中調格拉斯玫瑰和茉莉 花，基調是柔和的檀香，揉合成清新芳香的喜悅氣息。 香氛鑒賞家會聯想到Dior以玫瑰和茉莉作Joy主調，是向1929年 由Jean Patou推出的原版Joy致敬。這款經典之作，每一瓶都由10,600 朵茉莉花和28打玫瑰提煉而成，成為當時最名貴的香氛，更於2000年 擊敗一眾勁敵包括Chanel N° 5，榮獲Fragrance Foundation FiFi大獎。 正因其標誌性形象深入人心，如今當這兩個品牌都被歸入LVMH集團 旗下，Dior沿用此聲名顯赫的先行者名字，也不無道理。而最重要的 是，無論你怎樣稱呼，玫瑰永遠都是芬芳馥郁的玫瑰。 費思量的，可能是究竟該選經典版還是新版Joy呢？ Joy by Christian Dior 30ml | $90, 50ml | $119, 90ml | $165

78

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

永遠的玫瑰

Ode to Joy Christian Dior launches a new pillar fragrance with the same name as the Scent of the Century Story | Leslie Yip

If you’re thinking of purchasing a bottle of perfume, remember ‘tis the season of Joy. Not to be confused with the original Joy by Jean Patou, this newcomer on the scent scene is Christian Dior’s first major launch since it introduced J’adore nearly 20 years ago. Its creator, François Demachy, describes it as “a remarkable feeling of joy by offering an olfactive interpretation of light.”

The face of the perfume is Jennifer Lawrence, frolicking in water in the TV campaign. Some joked that she got the part because of her 2015 film Joy, but with films grossing more than $5.5 billion worldwide and being the only person born in the 1990s to win a Best Actress Oscar thus far, the Red Sparrow and Hunger Games star was an obvious choice.

The note of this new fragrance opens with zesty bergamot and mandarin, leading to Grasse rose and jasmine. Warmed by creamy sandalwood, the effect is both sparkling and powdery.

Perfume connoisseurs may recognize that the floral bouquet of roses and jasmine in Dior’s Joy seems to pay tribute to the Joy by Jean Patou, which was launched in 1929. Each bottle was made with the essence from 10,600 jasmine flowers and 28 dozen roses, making it the most expensive perfume in the world at the time. The iconic status of the fragrance was recognized in 2000 when it was named Scent of the Century at the Fragrance Foundation FiFi Awards, beating out other famous scents like Chanel N°5.

So it is quite unfathomable why Dior would reuse the name of such a famed predecessor, especially when the two brands are now owned by the same parent company, LVMH Group. But call a rose by any name and it would smell as sweet. The new Joy or the old: that is the question.

JOy By JEAN PATOu BACCArAT 經典的Joy by Jean Patou仍然有售，30ml的特別版 更是由人手用玻璃滴管將香氛注入瓶中，密封的瓶頸繫以 精緻金線，每瓶獨立編號，放置於鋪有絲絨錦縀的錦盒 內，每瓶售價$2,070，thebay.com有售。

The original Joy by Jean Patou is still on the market. This special Baccarat 30ml edition is filled by hand with a glass dropper, and its sealed neck is wrapped with delicate gold thread. Individually numbered and presented in a velvet and satin box, it is priced at $2,070. Available at thebay.com.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

79

fashion: men

不容有失的領帶學

Freudian slipknot Story | Simon Au, Timothy Lo Photography | Bowy Chan

再尋常的配飾也有它的學問。領帶明明只 是一塊細小布料，偏偏弄得很多男士們滿 頭大汗。直至看過弗洛伊德的理論，說領 帶象徵男性的生殖器官，同時也代表著權 力，方暸解到每個男人都要付諸耐心去繫 好一條領帶，全因面子事大，不容有失。 It takes some effort to nail down the right accessories. Just deciding on that tiny piece of fabric to tie around your neck can literally cause knots in your stomach. Funny enough, even Freud had a theory linking the necktie to manhood as a power symbol.

And now it sheds new light on why men go to great lengths to get their necktie just right HERMÈS Scratch silk twill tie 80

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Suitsupply brown knitted tie

據說法國路易十四時期，當地人看到受僱的克羅地亞傭 兵都會將白色圍巾繫於腰間，法國人對此打扮興趣高昂，紛 紛仿效他們，但改成繫於脖子，並稱為「領巾」（Cravat）。 路易十四對此一見鍾情，命令工匠刺繡改良，成為今天領帶 的雛型。 英國的查理二世對領帶同樣愛不釋手，貴族間爭相仿 效。而被譽為十八世紀最早的型男的Beau Brummell，改變 上流社會以繽紛色彩穿搭的俗氣，經常以all in black造型示 人，一條黑色領帶更是其象徵。Chanel約十年前的秋冬系列 便以Beau Brummel來命名，向這位潮流先鋒致敬，還推出 了不少黑色領帶。

Giorgio Armani silk tie $260 (armani.com)

擁有稀奇古怪外表和創新面料的領帶比比皆是，但經 典反而最實用和最易配搭。一般來說，秋冬可選擇柔和且沉 穩色調的領帶，有規則的條紋和幾何小花紋的圖案也不失端 莊。一向走中價路線的Suitsupply今季帶來校園風的針織平 底領帶，Sean Connerry、Paul Newman亦曾多次在銀幕上 演繹這種配搭；意大利高級品牌Kiton則以羊毛料子塑造硬 朗感，加上招牌式的小紅點在含蓄中彰顯紳士的力量、氣質 和品味。 不敢嘗試過於花巧的領帶，但又想平衡西裝的冰冷感， 不妨試試Giorgio Armani的波點以及Brunello Cucinelli的花 紋領帶，在單調的西裝襯衫之下，會有立刻跳脫出來，達到 畫龍點睛的效果。愛馬仕的領帶圖案設計向來別出心栽，這 季在背後也有「隱藏」玩味，如藏有抓痕、唇印、刺青等叛逆 細節，說穿了，再正經的男人，骨子裡都是貪玩的。

Brioni black feather tie US$230 (brioni.com)

During the reign of Louis XIV, the French were intrigued by the Croatian mercenaries’ style of tying a white cloth around their waist. They adopted the look but tied the cloth around their necks instead, calling them “cravats”. Louis XIV loved the look and had artisans embroider and finesse the accessory. It became the precursor of the modern necktie.

Charles II of England was also a big fan of the necktie; it became a hit among the nobility. Beau Brummell, hailed as the earliest style icon of the 18th century, bucked the upper echelon’s trend towards colourful dressing, often appearing in all black, finished with a black necktie. A decade ago, Chanel named its Fall/Winter season after Brummell to pay tribute to this early trendsetter, including a wide range of black neckties in the collection.

There are plenty of neckties with bizarre designs and innovative materials, but the classics are still the most practical and versatile. For Fall/Winter, the rule of thumb is to choose soft, earthy tones with regular stripes or small geometric prints for a more dignified look.

Brunello Cucinelli silk tie

Dutch fashion brand Suitsupply has brought back the campus-style knit tie, a look personified on the silver screen by the likes of Sean Connery and Paul Newman. Italian luxury brand Kiton uses wool, with its signature red dots, to express a gentleman’s strength and sophistication.

To offset the staid suited look, Giorgio Armani opts for dotted ties while Brunello Cucinelli does it in dots and striped designs, both adding a dash of distinction. Hermès always comes up with idiosyncratic patterns for neckties, such as scratch marks, lipstick prints and tattoos. Now even the most conservative man can show off his mischievous side simply with his tie.

Kiton print silk tie

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

81

fashion: men

Photography | Daniel James Brown

82

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

英倫紳士的領帶選擇 講到對領帶的了解和駕馭，世上實在少有人能與英倫紳 士相比。來自英國的西裝店老闆Daniel James Brown終日與 領帶為伍，遇見他彷彿穿越1920年代，真正了解何謂「公子 時尚」（Dandyism）。想打呔打得有型不俗套，跟Daniel學習 最適合不過。 Daniel用一句英式諺語形容領帶在男人衣櫃中的重要 性：「Cherry on top of the cake」，意思是畫龍點睛。「在英 國人的眼中，領帶之於造型既能載舟亦能覆舟，能夠帶出整 體裝扮的感覺和味道。」他在英國開設服裝店近六年，專賣軟 呢西裝（Tweed Suits），對紳士穿搭瞭如指掌；期間又收藏 領帶30多條，款款精挑細選，充滿特色。「不管是現代感較 重的緞面領帶、厚重的羊毛領帶，還是復古懷舊的花紋領帶 我都有，以配合不一樣的造型。其中一條歷史最悠久的，更 是傳承自我祖父的綠色絲質領帶，未必是最好看，卻另有一 番風味和回憶。」

領帶花紋、粗細決定風格 以繡有不同花紋的領帶，配合各種風格，成為Brown的 專有時尚。「我一直認為穿衣最重要是拿捏平衡。個人偏愛 點子和條紋圖案的領帶，在不同造型上都更顯百搭。」藝高人 膽大的男士亦可參考他以格子西裝跟貝殼花紋領帶的配搭， 兩款花紋雖都搶眼，卻平衡得當，實屬精彩。 Brown指出不同粗細、形狀的領帶，也會影響造型的 整體感覺。他偏愛粗身領帶，喜其有獨特的「old-fashion」味 道，再繡上複雜的花紋便充滿復古氣質；他從來不打窄身領 帶，但認為部分男士們會比較喜歡其簡潔、摩登的風格，現 代感比較重。

NECKTIES For ENGLISH GENTLEmEN When it comes to understanding and carrying off neckties, English gentlemen take the cake. Daniel James Brown, who operates an English suit store, wears a tie daily, personifying the dandy of the 1920s. He demonstrates how to wear a tie in a stylish and unconventional way.

Describing ties as the “cherry on top of the cake”, Brown says, “Englishmen think ties can make or break a look. They bring out the feel and the essence of an overall look.”

Brown has been running his store for six years, specializing in soft tweed suits, so he knows men’s styling very well. He has more than 30 ties in his own collection, each one a thoughtful and unique choice.

“Whether it is a contemporary satin tie, a heavy-set wool tie or a retro print tie, I have them all for different looks. The one I have had the longest is a green silk tie I inherited from my grandfather. It may not look the best, but it is different and full of memories.”

PrINTS AND WIDTH DETErmINE STyLE Brown prides himself on selecting the right tie for a particular look. Says Brown: “I’ve always believed that balance is most important in dressing. Personally, I like ties with dots and stripes. They go with all sorts of styles.”

He says bolder men might try matching a checkered suit with a shell print tie. Both prints are eye-catching, yet go together quite well.

Brown points out that the width and shape of a tie also play a part in creating the overall look. He prefers wider ties for their unique “old-fashion” appeal. Those embroidered with complicated prints have an even stronger vintage look.

He never wears narrow ties, although some men prefer these for their simplicity and contemporary feel.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

83

fashion: men Illustration | 勞曉晴 Shirts Giorgio Armani

圖解領帶配搭法

WHAT KNoTS

在正統的西裝世界，領帶至少有十八種繫法。但即使領帶不襯 西裝，也照樣能夠成為型格紳士的造型焦點。且看四款領帶配搭圖 鑑，自會明白其可塑性。

There are some 18 ways to knot a tie. Check out four of them and explore their versatility.

成熟韻味

花俏吊帶

孖襟西裝相對成熟的款式、剪裁和比例對亞洲男士有一定難度。選配的領帶 必須較為窄身，平衡西裝外套的厚重和寬大感覺。圖案和顏色方面亦宜選 擇較為簡單的深色波點花紋，能予人相對穩重的感覺。為配合領帶形狀和比 例，可選擇衣領較短的恤衫。

恤衫、西褲、領帶和吊帶一度被視為專業男性的指標制服，縱然近年熱潮減 退，若男士們喜歡較為花俏的領帶，可選擇同色系的簡單吊帶和純色恤衫， 以免搶去焦點。不穿西裝外套，能讓造型更休閒隨性，不會過分拘謹。

Mature charm

Swanky suspenders

The cut and proportions of a double-breasted suit make it difficult for many Asian men to carry off. The ties for these should be relatively narrow to balance the broad silhouette. Darker colours and dot designs will impart reliability. Shirts with narrow collars are preferable to match the proportion of the tie.

Shirt, trousers, tie and suspenders were once the standard ensemble for the professional man. Although no longer the norm, men who like swanky ties can also choose suspenders of the same tone to contrast with a plain shirt.

Go without a jacket to add a casual touch.

藍領工服

古典主義

條紋領帶原來與美式古著工作服十分匹配。把軍綠色的工服背心穿在外面， 內穿恤衫打領帶，當中的反差風格充滿玩味和實驗性，是不喜歡固定服裝潮 流的另類穿搭方法。

84

「三件頭」 西裝始於十九世紀歐洲，而領帶則是演變自當時的喱士和絲綢製的 領巾。當時的領巾並沒有各式各樣的領帶結，只是圍在脖子上繞兩圈，用以 綴飾西裝造型。當然現今領帶並不會出現浮誇的喱士和荷葉滾邊，但若將復 古花紋領帶當領巾用，配以 「三件頭」 西裝造型，倒充滿古典紳士的氣質。

Workmen’s ensemble

Classicism

Striped ties are, in fact, a great match for retro U.S.-style workers’ uniforms.

Throwing an army green vest over a shirt makes for a fun contrast.

Three-piece suits originated in 19th-century Europe. Ties evolved from the lace and silk neckcloths of the day. There were no knots. Rather, they were wound around the neck twice to accessorize a suited look. Of course, these days ties are not made of lace, nor are they ruffled. If retro print ties are to be worn as neckcloths with a three-piece suit, they will bring back the persona of the classic gentleman.

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

elitegen.ca

Free Digital Copies

eliteGen singtao

elitegen.ca

@elitegenmag

RUNWAY: BERLUTI

86

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

黯然銷魂

Understated refinement Haider Ackermann makes an elegant departure from Berluti Story | 冰汪 總覺得Haider Ackermann身懷絕世才華，設計不羈瀟灑，盡得時裝人歡 心。但這位哥倫比亞浪人始終沒法得到商業上的驕人成就。僅僅三季，黯然離開 Berluti。 今年一月，Haider Ackermann在巴黎大皇宮其中一個大廳，上演他在 Berluti第三場時裝騷。場內，清一色粉紅絨布，十足少女的房間，放在大男人的 世界，非常浪漫的衝突。 一片粉紅的天橋，首先登場是一套駱駝色皮look。駱駝色皮trench coat、 駱駝色皮褲配黑色皮靴，沒有圖案，沒有logo，幾乎連縫線都看不見。終極如 此的簡約，是多麼寧靜的有型得體。男裝衣服的最高層次，就是回歸布料、剪 裁。由衣服散發出來的靜，正正是Haider Ackermann創作秋冬系列的起點：「身 處前所未有地喧鬧的世界，我喜歡寧靜從容的男士形象。」事實上，這種無添加 的設計，亦源自Berluti招牌鞋款Alessandro的無縫概念。 一如過往兩季，衣服的矜貴，繼續隱藏在只有穿著者才能享用的細節，譬 如皮革trench coat內的cashmere lining，或者外套內的蜥蜴皮革暗袋。似乎是 再次向世人定義，luxury，是一種私密享受，不是心存show off的炫耀。 在Berluti，Haider Ackermann開創了boyfriend looks，繼續呈現中性魅 力。貫徹無縫概念外，亦聰明地利用大量tone on tone設計。壓軸出場的兩套粉 紅色cashmere look。一男一女，男的穿西裝披頸巾，女的穿大褸。經他悉心調 校出來的粉紅色，是淡淡然的pink，靚到心癢。 他為Berluti創作的衣服，三季以來，類型不出西裝跟大褸，或者夾克與 parka，全是男裝中堅分子，單靠玩布玩色，這個秋冬系列已是顛峰級雋永。

Haider Ackermann’s unapologetically glamorous style has received much acclaim, but this Colombian rebel has not been able to achieve much commercial success. So, after three seasons, he has quietly left Berluti.

Earlier this year, Ackermann staged his third show at the Grand Palais.

The room decorated in pink felt was a dramatic juxtaposition for the uber masculine clothing line that included a camel trench coat, camel leather pants and black leather boots. There were no patterns, no logo. Even the stitching is barely visible in keeping with Berluti’s back to basics mantra, letting luxury fabrics speak for themselves.

“Because I am in this unprecedented noisy world, I like to create an image of the quiet, aloof gentleman,” says Ackermann about his fall/winter collection for men. This no-frills design is parallel to the no-seams styling of Berluti’s signature Alessandro shoe line.

As was the case with his previous two seasons, the details of Ackermann’s design were only visible when worn, such as the cashmere lining in the leather trench coat, or the lizard skin hidden pocket. It’s as if you’re declaring again that luxury is a private matter and not something to be shown off.

With his departure after three seasons at Berluti, Ackermann will be remembered for his gender-neutral charm and a prove-nothing-to-anyone understated style. Good luck Haider Ackermann, not that you need any.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

87

RUNWAY: BERLUTI Black and green nylon parka

Powder blue leather bonded blouson

Camel leather trench coat

Black calf leather engraved boots

Military green cotton parka with castorino lining 88

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

special home supplement

協平世博的Galleria，將座落在列治文新天車站附近，打造黃金半小時生活圈。 Galleria by Concord Pacific is located near the Skytrain station in Richmond and offers a sought-after lifestyle circle within a half-hour radius.

列治文藝廊化生活 高端Galleria顯氣派

Galleria offers stylish, luxurious living in Richmond 列治文近年不少新建房屋，協平世博把握 觸覺打造高端貴氣的藝廊式住宅Galleria，五幢 大廈位於CapstanWay夾No. 3 Road，鄰近未來 天車站，打造半小時黃金生活圈。

New developments continue to rise in Richmond, including Concord Pacific’s luxurious Galleria residences. 5 towers located on No. 3 Road and Capstan Way, next to the proposed Canada Line SkyTrain station, making it a convenient foothold to cover more ground within a half-hour radius.

Galleria不但以先進科技配套為住客締造優 質生活，更深明年青家庭重視培育下一代，特別 設有12,000平方呎的藝術設施，讓幼童和青少年 在濃厚藝術氣氛包圍下成長，從而發展創意無限 的可變人生。而多達36,000平方呎面積的零售店 鋪和商業服務，令日常生活所需一應俱全。

A project inspired by art and excelled with technology, it holds strong appeal for young families, affording children the opportunity to grow up in an artistic environment in which to nurture their creativity. Galleria cultivates a unique 12,000 sq. ft. art facility to enlighten children and teens, along with 36,000 sq. ft. of on-site retail and commercial services for your everyday convenience.

Galleria主打1-3房戶型柏文，全屋配備高級 Miele家電，浴室採用Kohler Veil智能坐廁獨特設 計，全屋中央空調、100% EV充電停車場、大堂 及康樂設施空間提供全天候Wifi。

Galleria features one-, two- and three-bedroom apartments, complete with high-end Miele appliances and bathrooms featuring Kohler’s Veil intelligent toilets with integrated cleansing functionality. Central air-conditioning, carparks with 100% EV charging and Wi-Fi in lobby and amenity areas complete the sophisticated package.

Galleria地理位置優勢，Costco、八佰伴只 有3分鐘距離，4分鐘可到達時代坊，5分鐘到達 Walmart，6分鐘可到達列治文市中心，7分鐘直 達溫哥華國際機場，20分鐘可直達溫哥華市中 心，而且附近食肆林立，毗鄰公園、學校等社區 設施，四通八達，半小時黃金生活圈一應俱全。 請即登記，獲取最新訊息concordgalleria. com。

The development is surrounded by parks, schools and dining options, with other amenities within easy reach. Costco, Yaohan, Aberdeen Centre and Walmart are all within a fiveminute walk.

The heart of Richmond, as well as Vancouver International Airport, are less than 10 minutes away — downtown Vancouver, 20 minutes.

Concord Pacific Richmond Sales Centre 8511 Capstan Way, Richmond Priority registration: concordgalleria.com Enquiries: 604-270-1178

Home

華麗深綠 自然治愈系的家

Green is good

Not since the 1980s has this colour packed so much punch Story | Livian Wu Photography | DULUX Paints by PPG

92

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

The big colour this year according to Dulux Paints by PPG was inspired by lush greens that bring a calming and fresh feel to any living space. Night Watch, a 2019 colour of the year, has dark and intense hues that make a great complementary colour to soft greybrowns, warm sandy beiges or even rusty tones.

These colours are well-suited for bedrooms and kitchen cabinetry, and also bring a sophisticated yet welcoming old-school elegance to brick when painted on the front door.

In contrast a seductive deep green matte Mojito Shimmer, the other colour of the year, a glistening, frosted dark green from the Dulux Effects Finishes VENETIAN SILK™ collection, combines two stunning colour tones to produce a warm and tactile match.

Applying Mojito Shimmer to a bedroom wall provides the space with an extraordinary shadowy texture that generates a calm after the storm kind of mood. To achieve a contrasting effect, fine neutral tones, such as a white-grey, light-grey or silver-blue, can be used.

“These glamorous dark greens are symbolic of consumers’ desire for positive change—to move from darkness to twilight and to search for an element of rebirth in today’s complex, technologically-driven world,” says PPG brand manager Martin TustinFuchs. “Both of these colours represent the ultimate in luxe, delivering a rich, striking look that brings sophistication and depth to living spaces.” 塗料品牌DULUX預測2019年的熱門年度家居主色， 分別為「夜巡」（Night Watch）和「莫吉托閃光」（Mojito Shimmering）。兩者皆為奢華的深綠色調，為現代家居增添古 典優雅和精緻的風格。

自然界的治愈力量 「夜巡」靈感來自茂盛的草木 ，帶出鬱鬱葱葱的綠色感 覺，令家居重現大自然的平靜，同時亦不失振奮人心的快感。 這款暗綠色既可作中性顏色，亦可利用其強烈的色彩元素襯 托柔和的灰棕色或溫暖的米沙色，甚至是強烈的鏽色調。 將「夜巡」融入臥室、客廳或用作廚房櫥櫃的顏色，尤其 與金屬飾面及錫製色調搭配得宜 。另外亦可用於大門上，在 一片磚牆或平實的背景中營造出不一樣的動感。

改造牆壁無難度 「莫吉托閃光」這款磨砂暗綠，是一款富光澤的霜狀綠色 塗層，營做出獨特、帶有觸覺感的飾面效果。 「莫吉托閃光」是「夜巡」的完美襯托。由於它能產生觸感 柔滑的效果、營造出多色調的發光面層，為牆壁增添一份驚 艷的深度。 以臥室為例，只要將其中一幅牆塗上「莫吉托閃光」，其 紋理的起伏感便能創造出陰影效果，效果非同凡響。其餘的 牆壁部分則可用「夜巡」來襯托 。如想達到更強烈的對比效 果，可選擇一款精緻的中性色調，如灰白色、銀藍色或淺灰 色作補充 。 色彩專家 Martin Tustin-Fuchs表示：「『夜巡』及『莫吉托 閃光』皆突顯奢華感，帶出豐富醒神的的視覺效果，提供具深 度的生活空間。這些迷人的深綠色由去年流行的淡黑色進化 而成，象徵人類對於積極改變的願景，從黑暗走向黎明，並 在當今複雜的的世界中尋找重生的希望。」

ELITEGEN

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

93

「君臨天下」的盛會 盡顯帝皇氣派 匯集名士風範

“King’s Landing” Ball Imperial grandeur exemplified Story | Andrew Lai

深秋的黃昏，華燈初上，一個名為「君臨天下」的舞會，在多倫多 北約克帝景豪城舉行。 氣勢磅薄的名字，已經告訴你這是一個非凡的派對。當晚社區名 人和地產精英雲集，星光熠熠，衣香鬢影。 「君臨天下」King’ s Landing是帝景豪城Concord Park Place最新 一個住宅項目，位於城內得天獨厚的中心位置，預定於2022年落成。

燈，富麗堂皇；舞台上，管弦樂團在演奏著動聽的樂章，嘉賓們在大 舞池翩翩起舞；更可在特設的英國著名Macallan威士忌酒吧，品嚐到 多款陳年佳釀。 此情此景，仿似置身在宮殿內舉行的皇室盛會。 這份氣派，正正就是「君臨天下」。

發展商Concord協平嘉德為即將推出的樓盤「君臨天下」造勢，特 別於帝景豪城展銷中心，舉辦這一場盛大的舞會；為隆重其事，邀請 函列明這個是禮服宴會，嘉賓全都盛裝赴會。

協平世博集團(Concord Pacific)是加拿大最大的社區發展商，而 協平嘉德(Concord Adex)於多倫多紮根，領導大多市地產市場二十多 年。協平嘉德在多倫多市中心打造的雍景豪城Concord CityPlace，改 變了整個多倫多市中心的天際線，成績有目共睹。

協平嘉德銷售部副總裁Isaac Chan說選擇在展銷中心舉辦如此盛 會，正是要彰顯「君臨天下」的氣派和特色。「『君臨天下』富麗堂皇的 大堂，將會掛上巨型水晶吊燈，屆時將是加拿大最大的水晶燈裝飾藝 術。大廈配備多項豪華設施以外，更有可舉行盛大派對的宴會廳。今 次舞會安排在此舉行，賓客能親身體會箇中的氣派和不凡。」

2006年協平嘉德再接再勵，購入位處北約克佔地45畝的住宅用 地，發展成為帝景豪城Concord Park Place。整個發展計劃包括20幢 住宅大樓，提供6,000住宅單位，而「君臨天下」King’ s Landing正是帝 景豪城最尊貴地段的地產項目，設計靈感源自英國皇室的高貴典雅與 大氣。

展銷中心的氣氛，和平日很不一樣，雖然那個宏偉的帝景豪城模 型依然令人注目，但大家都暫時放下工作心情，把酒言歡，更紛紛在 拍照區留下倩影，熱鬧非常。

英式氣派同時盡顯於「君臨天下」，每個單位均擁有豪華裝潢和 Miele高級名牌家電。大部分2及3睡房單位更配有私人入室酒窖。大廈 還設有各式各樣的完善配備，包括英式桌球和壁球場等；八樓平台還 有一個設於室外的英式空中花園和英式草地滾球場。

舞會又怎少得了大舞池呢？協平嘉德專誠於帝景豪城展銷中心旁 邊搭建了一間宴會廳。 甫踏進敞大的宴會廳，映入眼簾，是意想不到的華麗–水晶吊

能在陽光下悠然享受優雅的英式下午茶，不就是典雅高尚的英式 生活品味嗎？

Miele明火煮食爐 Miele高級名牌家電

私人入室酒窖

Miele高級嵌入式雪櫃

King's Landing如皇冠般坐落Concord Park Place的正中位置；氣派盡顯 皇室式宴會廳

It’s an autumn evening and “King’s Landing Ball” is being held at Concord Park Place, in the Sheppard-Leslie area of North York. As the name suggests, it’s to be an extraordinary event. Celebrities and the movers and shakers of the real estate industry arrive looking fittingly glamourous.

Developer Concord Adex staged the gala to generate fanfare prior to the sales launch of King’s Landing — Concord Park Place’s latest upscale residential project, to be completed in 2022. When Isaac Chan, Vice President of Sales for Concord Adex, was asked about why they hosted such an event, “ At King’s Landing, the grand lobby features the largest chandelier of its kind in Canada, and within our array of luxurious amenities, we will also have a grand ballroom.

That’s why we organized The King’s Landing Ball, so our guests could experience what it is like to have a party at King’s Landing.”

The showroom was still dominated by the magnificent Concord Park Place miniature, but the atmosphere was more relaxed, as all in attendance set aside work to enjoy a relaxing evening over drinks and taking photos.

For the occasion, Concord Adex built a glamourous banquet hall, complete with opulent chandeliers and a dance floor, next to the showroom. While an orchestra played, guests also enjoyed the renowned Macallan Whiskey Bar where various vintages were served.

加拿大最大的水晶燈裝飾藝術

The scene resembled that of a gala in palatial settings, reflecting the grandeur of King’s Landing.

Concord Pacific is the biggest community developer in Canada.

Concord Adex is rooted in Toronto and has been a leading player in the real estate market for more than 20 years. Its notable development, Concord CityPlace in Toronto city centre, has reshaped the skyline of Toronto.

In 2006, Concord Adex acquired 18 hectares of land just off Highway 401 on which to develop Concord Park Place, a multi-tower condominium complex that will eventually include 6,000 homes in 20 buildings. The King’s Landing is the most luxurious building in the development.

English grandeur will pervade throughout King’s Landing. Every home will boast deluxe interiors and high-end Miele appliances. Most two and three bedrooms homes will even have their own in-suite wine cellar. The building is complete with recreational facilities like billards and squash court. An outdoor garden and lawn bowling area will be set up on the Level 8 podium. Enjoying afternoon tea under the sun is the epitome of the English lifestyle.

King’s Landing Ball offered a glimpse into the lavish lifestyle that King’s Landing will offer.

For more information, visit concordkingslanding.com

Wine not

打從1970年代棄木從鋼，Salon似乎已 悟出釀造香檳的無木之道。 Since opting for stainless steel in the 1970s, Salon has uncovered the upside of not fermenting champagne in wood.

Salon現任莊主Didier Depond被不少人視為 無木派的代表人物。 Salon president Didier Depond is seen as the father of “no-wood” advocates.

96

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Salon等同百分百Chardonnay的清純細緻，完全反 映極佳年份Le Mesnil-sur-Oger的風土氣候特質。 Salon delivers 100 per cent pure and refined chardonnay, truly reflecting the terroir of superior Le Mesnil-sur-Oger vintages.

無木仍歡

No wood, still good The practice of aging wines in steel instead of oak barrels is gaining popularity Story | Ivan Wong

香檳是否應採橡木桶醞釀？近年在葡萄酒世界中引來不少話 題。但只要品嘗過Salon的佳釀，便會發覺無木仍可歡。 上世紀60年代，因成本效益關係，香檳區以不鏽鋼桶取代已 有數百年歷史的橡木桶醞釀方法大行其道。原因除了橡木桶本身 的成本，其管理及品質掌控也是相當繁複高深的學問，還有經年 醞釀的品質風險。幸好，不少具備一定財力而又以酒質與傳統為 先的香檳酒莊如Bollinger或Krug，橡木桶從未離開過酒窖半步。 若說Krug是明星產區Le Mesnil-sur-Oger的木派代表，同鄉 的Salon則是鋼派代表。Salon與木絕緣的簡約，實在也有其大道 理。傳統上說，無論是大木桶發酵或小木桶陳釀，所用的都是舊 木桶，有說是愈舊愈好，因舊木桶在香檳原酒身上產生較溫和的 作用，容易達到水乳交融互補狀態；但新木桶本身的風味可能過 於強烈，把風土氣候特質完全蓋過。打從1970年代起，Salon似 乎已悟出箇中香檳無木之道—百分百Chardonnay的清純細緻， 百分百反映極佳年份Le Mesnil-sur-Oger風土氣候特質，讓無木 派支持者奉為香檳terroir圭臬。

Shouldn’t champagne be fermented in oak barrels? This has been the subject of much debate in wine circles for years, but those who have tasted Salon’s vintages couldn’t care less that there’s no wood involved.

In the 1970s, the practice of fermenting in centuries-old oak barrels in the Champagne region was challenged by winemakers who opted for stainless steel vats, principally for budgetary reasons. But it was more than just about cost savings, because oak barrels require attentive management and quality control.

Yet, some cash-rich champagne houses like Bollinger and Krug still stick with tradition and heritage, and continue to use oak barrels.

But if Krug is pinned as the poster boy for the “wood advocates” in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, then Salon from the same region is the icon of the “steel believers”. Salon went without wood for a good reason. Traditionally, it doesn’t matter if a wood barrel is big or small, as long as it is old—the older the better, as a well-aged barrel can mellow a champagne cru to create a much more harmonious blend. New barrels can have their own strong scent, which can overpower the terroir of a wine.

Salon uncovered the upside of fermenting champagne without wood—and its chardonnay became 100 per cent pure and refined, reflecting the terroir of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger 100 per cent. Its production has been hailed by non-wood supporters as a true measure of champagne terroirs.

Salon只在極佳年份才釀造年份 blanc de blancs，得醞釀10年，產 量亦少，對上推出已是2007年。 Salon only makes blanc de blancs in good years, and it takes 10 years to ferment. Production is small, the last vintage being 2007.

RestauRant

室外火爐為客人帶來無限溫暖。 The fire pit will keep you warm in colder weather.

城中最新優雅亮點

D/6 Bar & Lounge The newest spot for the city’s smart & elegant set Story | Kenson Ho & George Verdolaga Photography | D/6 Bar & Lounge

如若要找到既能盡覽溫哥華市美景的頂層平台，又可享 受佳餚美酒的好地方，去年開業、價值6.4億元，在擁 有新「城市度假勝地」美名的Parq Vancouver內的D/6將 是你的新選擇。 Vancouver has its share of outdoor patios. But if you’ve been searching for a nice rooftop deck with a big “wow” factor — and a stunning view of the city to boot — then say hello to D/6, the glitzy new bar and lounge located on the 6th floor of the DOUGLAS, one of two luxury hotels at Parq Vancouver, the $640 million mixed-use development next to BC Place stadium that opened last year.

98

E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

在這裡欣賞溫哥華天 際線的壯麗景色，誠 為雙重享受。 There’s nothing quite like the experience of just sitting here, soaking in the breathtaking views of Vancouver’s skyline.

D/6是位於Douglas酒店6樓的閃亮新酒吧/休憩廳。建築 靈感來自Arthur Erickson，這是一個現代主義的綠洲，提供 高級進餐和休閒室的體驗。D/6對客人衣著有所要求，事先 聲明不招待穿著短褲和拖鞋的客人。在這個設計時尚的空間 裡，盡是穿著時髦、富品味的客人，置身以當地採購材料建 造的優雅開揚空間，欣賞美妙城市景觀，感覺閒適舒暢，難 怪D/6瞬即成為城中高雅人士和國際旅客的最新熱點。

城市綠洲 登上Douglas酒店的6樓時，即會見到以實心大理石雕刻 而成的接待台，站在其後的熱情友善工作團隊為客人獻上殷 勤誠懇服務。幾步之遙就是D/6，步進光線充足，富洞穴感 的5,530方呎的空間，感受專為交融和鬆弛而設的空間。

Architecturally inspired by Arthur Erickson, D/6 is a modernist oasis that offers an elevated dining and lounge experience. For starters, there is a dress code that’s enforced, so no shorts or flip-flops please. You’ll come across a smartly-attired cosmopolitan crowd enjoying themselves in a sleekly-designed space that features a sumptuous mix of locally-sourced materials and wide-open spaces that allow you to wander around and enjoy the fantastic city views.

It’s no wonder that D/6 has quickly become the new preferred spot for the city’s sophisticated set and for international travelers.

ContEmporArY DéCor For UrbAn SophIStICAtES Upon arrival on the 6th floor of the DoUGLAS, you’ll come across a team of warm and friendly staff standing behind what is probably one of the longest and most elegant marble reception desks you’ll ever see. D/6 is just a few steps away — a light-filled, 5,530-square-foot space that’s designed for mingling and relaxation.

Your eyes are immediately drawn to a warmly-lit giant bookcase at the far end that features an artful array of books and tasteful curios. What won’t be immediately obvious is a private room smartly hidden behind that same bookcase that can be rented out for events for up to 30 people.

For those wanting to engage in some sporting fun, there’s a billiard table by the entrance to help you unwind as you enjoy some cocktails and listen to the pulsating music, or live bands on weekend nights. the lounge itself is a cozy and attractive space with the feel of an exclusive membersonly club. the beautifully shaped leather and fabric sofas and armchairs, combined with the raw concrete walls and dark wooden floors, lend a contemporary and youthful vibe that will appeal to fans of luxury minimalism.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2018

99

RestauRant

戶外園景庭院面積達7,500方呎。 Come outside and you’ll be treated to a beautifully landscaped, 7,500-square-foot patio.

客人無不被D/6深處一個明亮的巨大書櫃吸 引，當中放置著各種各樣書籍和雅緻古董，原來 隱藏在其中一個書櫃後的，是可容納多至30人的 私人貴賓房間。想一展身手的話，入口處的桌球 枱正好大派用場，讓你邊喝雞尾酒，邊於周末晚 上聆聽現場樂隊音樂之餘，可以鬆馳緊張神經。 休憩廳擁有舒適閒逸氛圍，仿如獨家會員俱樂部 般。造型優美，以皮革和布藝製成沙發和扶手 椅，跟原始混凝土牆和深色木地板相結合，營造 出現代和朝氣洋溢的氣息，吸引奢華極簡主義的 擁護者。 D/6右側的一列窗戶，將室內和室外休憩區 分開。來到戶外，可享受7,500方呎的美麗園景庭 院，安坐於此享受美味的開胃菜和飲料。在這裡 沉浸著溫哥華天際線的壯麗景色中，人生幾何。

100 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Walk towards the right side of the space and you’ll notice a huge bank of windows which separate the indoor and outdoor lounge areas. Come outside and you’ll be treated to 7,500 square feet of beautifully landscaped patio, where you can sit and enjoy some tasty appetizers and drinks. there is simply nothing like the experience of just sitting there and soaking in the breathtaking views of Vancouver’s skyline.

D/6 has an all-day menu that runs the gamut, from lighter fare to slightly more filling dishes that are available from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. daily. You can start your meal with a Caesar salad and then move on to a turkey sandwich if you’re looking for a healthy option. those who simply want some pre-dinner appies, there’s a cured meat and artisan cheese board, or their tasty chicken wings to go with your wine or cocktail. of course, you can also order from Victor’s sushi menu.

D/6備有一個由上午11:30至晚上9:30供應的餐單，有 多款輕食及分量十足的菜餚。如要尋找更健康的選擇，可先 來一道凱撒沙律，再加一客土耳其三文治。想要一些餐前美 食?可以品嘗他們的凍肉和高檔芝士或是燒雞翼，來搭配你 的餐酒或雞尾酒。還可以點叫在Douglas酒店Victoria餐廳的 壽司。於下午2:30至5:30的歡樂時光，來一杯城中少有、以 來自意大利東北部的獨特葡萄酒作材料混成的開胃酒Aperol Spritz。而暖洋洋的香草甜甜圈，可滿足任何甜品控，為完 美一餐畫上句號。想要另類甜點，便得品嘗他們的以桑格利 亞汽酒或西瓜奇異果製成的冰棒。

During happy hour (2:30-5:30p.m.), you’ll be able to order an Aperol Spritz, a wine-based aperitif unique to northeast Italy that’s very hard to find in the city. to finish off your meal, their warm vanilla donuts will satisfy any sweet-tooth craving. For those who crave a dessert with a bit of a twist, sample their sangria or watermelon-kiwi popsicle.

D/6 is a place that will delight all the senses, a place you’ll find yourself returning to time and time again.

如此醉人氛圍，自是適合以香檳相伴。 This is a perfect environment to open a bottle of champagne and celebrate.

凍肉芝士拼盆。 Cured Meat and Artisan Cheese Board.

暖洋洋的香草甜圈，是甜品控首選。 The warm vanilla donuts will satisfy any sweet-tooth craving.

叫人停不了口的香噴噴雞翼。 Delicious fried chicken wings. Bet you can’t eat just one.

桑格利亞汽酒或西瓜奇異果製成的冰棒，是獨特的另類 甜點。 Sangria or a watermelon-kiwi popsicle: definitely desserts with a twist.

這裡供應來自Douglas酒店Victoria餐廳的壽司。 You can order sushi from the Victor Restaurant at the Douglas hotel.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 101

travel

一部手機

輕鬆旅攝

Keep calm and carry no cameras Can you really replace your camera with a smart phone?

We put the new Huawei Mate 20 Pro to the test on the streets of London Story & photography | Leslie Yip

102 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

皇家交易所於16世紀建成，是倫敦市商業中心的地標。不少重要的皇室聲明都選擇在交易所外發 表。這座雄偉的建築最適合用來測試Huawei Mate 20 Pro的超廣角鏡頭。這三張相片是在同一地 點拍攝。第一張以0.6x廣角鏡拍攝，第二張以標準1 x鏡頭，而最後一張則用了5x變焦鏡頭。 The Royal Exchange was founded in the 16th century to act as a centre of commerce for the City of London. Its historical significance is attested by the fact that the most important royal proclamations are made on its front steps. The massive building is the perfect place to test out the ultra wide lens of the HuaWei Mate 20 Pro smart phone. These three images are taken from the same spot. The first one is taken with the 0.6x wide angle, the second one with the standard 1 x frame, and the last one with the 5x zoom.

上月，我應Huawei邀請前往倫敦參加Mate 20 Pro的發布會。今 次行程十分短，全程不到40小時，加上我首次踏足倫敦，因此我決定 參加一個攝影步行導賞遊，在參觀名勝景點及認識當地文化的同時， 順道拿著我的新手機於倫敦街頭實戰。 我參加的導賞遊由Hairy Goat Photo Tours主辦，導遊Corinna約 我於倫敦皇家交易所的宏偉柱廊下集合。皇家交易所是倫敦首座專業 商業建築，由英國銀行之父Sir Thomas Gresham始建，設計靈感來自 比利時安特衛普那所全球最古老的交易所。交易所於1571年由女皇伊 莉莎伯一世揭幕，也因此冠名「皇家」。 其實皇家交易所在地區的歷史，可追溯至16世紀之前。現時的 Cornhill地區早在不列顛尼亞行省（英文名稱Roman Britain，指從43 年至410年羅馬帝國佔領大不列顛島的範圍）時期的倫敦（當時名為 Londinium），已經是中心地段。Corinna更表示，區內街道及建築物的 佈局自1世紀以來沒有太大改變，如果當時的羅馬人可以穿越到現在， 相信亦不會迷路。

Last month, HuaWei invited eliteGen to London for the unveiling of its Mate 20 Pro smartphone. It was a whirlwind trip—less than 40 hours—and my very first visit to London. So a photography walking tour seemed like a good idea. That way, I could see some sights, learn a bit more about the city and, of course, test out my new phone.

I joined a tour by Hairy Goat Photo Tours under the grand colonnades of the Royal Exchange, London’s first purpose-built centre for trading stocks. Established by Sir Thomas Gresham, the father of English banking, it is modelled on the Bourse in Antwerp, the world’s oldest financial exchange. It was officially opened by Queen Elizabeth I in 1571, who awarded it a royal title.

But the history of the area where the Royal Exchange is situated goes back beyond the 16th century. What is presently known as Cornhill was actually the centre of Londinium in Roman Britain.

Corinna, our guide, remarked that the layout of the local streets and buildings haven’t changed much since the first century, and if ancient Romans could travel through time, they would still be able to find their way.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 103

travel

Cornhill教堂於公元1世紀興建，佇立於市內古羅馬會堂的遺址。除了高樓部 分，整間教堂於1666年的大火中被燒毀，後來Sir Christopher Wren僅用了短短 三年把教堂重建。教堂的紀念碑紀念教區內2,130名自願參與第一次世界大戰的 海軍及陸軍。這張相以aperture功能拍攝，達至單反機的bokeh散景效果。手機 更可讓用家拍攝RAW及JPEG圖象。 The St. Michael Cornhill Church(pictured left) is erected over the remains of the basilica of the great Roman Forum, built in the first century AD. The church, with the exception of the tower, was completely destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, but was swiftly rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren in three years. A monument commemorates the 2,130 men in the parish who volunteered in the navy and the army in the Great War. The photo is taken with the “aperture” function to achieve the bokeh effect of DSLR cameras. It is interesting to note that the phone enables users to capture RAW and JPEG images.

“The buildings are very ornate and full of details, so there are lots of interesting things for you to photograph,” says Corinna, having chosen this area for the tour because of its rich history and architecture.

Soon drizzle turned into rain. Luckily, the phone is rated IP68 for water-resistance. If it could survive a dip into the pool, it should be able to handle London weather. That said, I still slipped it back into the pockets of my trench coat between shots. That’s when I began to appreciate the slimness of the case. At 7.2 cm in width, it was easy for me to hold and operate with one hand, and yet the 6.39-inch curved AMOLED display makes the screen appear much larger.

Corinna選擇在這一區進行攝影導賞遊，全因這裡的豐富歷史及建 築物：「區內的建築物都十分華麗而且充滿細緻工藝，妳一定可以找到 很多有趣的東西盡情拍攝。」 攝影導賞遊正式出發！ 此時，細雨忽然轉大，幸而手機的防水級別達IP68級，就算把它 放入泳池浸一下也沒有問題，相信可以應付倫敦的天氣。話雖如此， 不用拍攝時我仍然把它放入褸袋，我發覺它的機身超薄、超輕，只有 7.2cm闊，單手拍攝無難度，加上6.39吋AMOLED曲面屏幕，畫面顯 示範圍更廣。 Mate 20 Pro其中一大賣點是配備4個Leica鏡頭。24MP前置鏡頭 令自拍更出色。機背則配備40MP主鏡頭、20MP超廣角鏡頭及8MP遠 攝鏡頭，加上攝光燈以2 x 2的四方形格局排列。此三鏡頭組合猶如相 機的16-270mm變焦鏡，令取景角度廣闊得多。

104 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

One of the distinctive features of this phone is its four Leica lenses. On the front is a 24-megapixel shooter for selfies. The main lens boasts 40 megapixels, complemented by a 20-megapixel ultra wide lens and an 8-megapixel telephoto lens. These three are housed in the back with the flash in a distinctive 2 x 2 square grid formation.

Theoretically, this trio of lenses supports such a wide range of focal lengths that it is equivalent to having a 16-270mm zoom lens on your camera.

For someone who has been lugging at least three kilograms of camera and lenses around the world on travel assignments, the ability to replace all that weight with a 189-gram phone seems appealing, but I do have some pet peeves about using a phone as a camera when travelling.

Then there is the issue of battery life. In fact, I am always borderline paranoid about running out of juice. So, it was interesting to see how much would four hours of non-stop shooting dent the 4200mAh battery. I started the day at full charge. At the end of the tour, I had 63 per cent power left. Not bad considering that I was uploading photos to Instagram and Facebook as we walked.

位於Gracechurch街的The Crosse Keys建於1919年，當時是香港上海匯豐銀行 的總部，華麗的室內裝潢盡顯當時的輝煌盛世。JD Wetherspoon Group於80年 後把建築物購下並改建成酒吧。橢圓形的中央酒吧設有24支啤酒泵提供本地麥 芽啤酒及蘋果酒。昏暗的室內環境最適合測試手機的夜拍模式。酒吧的相片以4 秒曝光手持拍攝，全靠手機的人工智能圖象穩定功能。 The grandiose interior of The Crosse Keys on Gracechurch Street speaks of its former glory as the old headquarters of the Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Corporation when it was built in 1919. The JD Wetherspoon Group acquired this building 80 years later and turned it into a gastropub. The oval-shaped central bar houses 24 hand pumps for local ales and ciders. The dimly lit interior was perfect for testing out the “night” mode. The photo of the bar was taken “free hand” with a four-second exposure — thanks to AI-stabilization.

平日外遊要攜帶的相機加鏡頭至少重3千克，現時一台重189克 的手機便可取而代之，的確十分吸引。不過對於旅行時以手機代替相 機，我仍有所保留。 首先令我憂慮的是電池。我承認我有點過分擔心手機無電，因 此很想知道經過4小時的不停拍攝，手機內置的4200mAh電池還會剩 餘多少電量。出發前我把手機充滿電，導賞遊完結時手機電量仍有 63%。沿途我不斷把相片上載到Instagram及Facebook，因此電池表 現十分不錯。 如果中途需要充電，其40W快速充電器可於短短30分鐘把電池由 零電量充電至70%。手機更支援無線充電，亦即表示手機可充當無線 充電板，如果身邊的朋友也使用Mate 20 Pro，便可互相充電，以後也 不用擔心手機無電。 另一個憂慮就是手指紋。你有沒有試過用手機影相結果相片「曚 查查」，因為鏡頭經常留有手指紋。Mate 20 Pro配備羽毛紋理玻璃機 身，防止留下指紋及污漬，更加上一層名為vinyl tactility的塗層使機身 不易脫手。老實說，機身的紋理並不明顯，即使我經常使用螢幕的指 紋觸感器，以及不斷左右滑動螢幕測試不同的攝影模式，手機仍然十 分乾淨。 手機加入「手套模式」，無需使用專用手套亦可操控屏幕，冬天 時就更方便。手機亦支援雙SIM卡，同時可使用nano記憶卡擴充記憶 容量，外遊時可派上用場。而App Twin功能則可讓你同時使用兩個 Whatsapp 或 Facebook賬戶。 如果你是「路盲」，相信會愛上手機的dual band GPS系統。無論 是在大廈林立的市中心或縱橫交錯的公路上，亦可準確無誤地為你帶 路。不過我有Corinna帶我穿梭倫敦舊城的中世紀小巷，這功能便暫無 用武之地。

途經花檔，順便測試一下廣角鏡的macro功能，看看這幅太陽菊的花蕊，拍攝時 手機距離花蕊只有2.5厘米。 The superwide lens can also be used as a macro lens. I tested it when at a flower stall in Leadehall Market—look at the details in the heart of the Gerbera daisy—the photo was taken with the camera just 2.5 cm away.

I also knew that should I need to top up, the 40W super charger could give a 70 per cent charge in just 30 minutes. What’s more, this phone supports wireless reverse charging, which means it can act as a power bank for other devices. If more people around me start using the Mate 20 Pro, I may never have to worry about running out of power again.

Another pet peeve with smart phones is fingerprints.

How many times have you taken a shot and noticed it came out blurry because you left a thumbprint on the lens?

The Mate 20 Pro comes with a featherline-textured glass that resists fingerprints and smearing, and an extra layer of “vinyl tactility” coating to improve grip. Honestly, I cannot see or feel any special texture, but my phone stayed quite pristine despite the frequent handling, even when I was using the on-screen fingerprint sensor and swiping left and right to test out different camera modes.

Speaking of touch screen functions, the phone has a “glove mode”, which lets you operate the phone without wearing special touch-screen gloves—very useful in cold weather. Other travel-friendly features include dual SIM slots that can also be used with a nano memory card to expand memory space. And an App Twin function allows you to have two active Whatsapp or Facebook accounts.

Finally, for someone who is prone to get lost, the phone has a dual band GPS tracker, which offers more precise tracking even in city centres surrounded by skyscrapers or highway interchanges. Thanks to our guide, Corinna, I didn’t need to put that feature to the test. She was good as gold guiding us through the web of medieval alleys in old central London.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 105

trAvel

托斯卡尼艷陽下

Under the Tuscan sun

Wine towns dating back to the 9th Century are home to some of Italy’s most opulent resorts, spas, wineries and Michelin star restaurants Story | Marc Atchison / TraveLife magazine

106 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Castel Monastero Resort and Spa的廣場令從世界各 地前來接受水療和醫學治療的遊客感覺備受歡迎。 The main square of Castel Monastero Resort and Spa is a welcoming sight for tourists who come from all around the world to receive spa and medical treatments.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 107

trAvel

連綿起伏的托斯卡尼鄉村與享負盛名的赤陶屋頂構成 的美麗景緻，從Castel Monastero Resort and Spa向 四周延伸。 The rolling Tuscan countryside and the region’s famed terracotta roofs spread out from Castel Monastero Resort and Spa in all directions.

連綿起伏的托斯卡尼山，比目皆是盛產著名Chianti紅酒的小鎮。 時光彷彿在這裡停留，一座座中世紀時代的鐘樓，如同地圖上的圖釘 一樣，備受注意。

The rolling Tuscan hills are full of them—small Chianti wine towns frozen in time, their location known only because their medieval Bell Towers stick up on the horizon like pins on a map.

滿眼田園風貌的Siena省，是意大利最受歡迎的旅遊勝地之一，同 名的Siena市則以歌劇著稱。

You’ll find most in the idyllic province of Siena, where the famed opera city of the same name is among the top tourist destinations in Italy.

這些釀酒小鎮，屹立於山上，俯瞰著景色醉人的托斯卡尼鄉村。 每個小鎮的居民少於100人，蜿蜒伸展的路，以葡萄園、橄欖樹及向日 葵田勾勒界線。 大多數小鎮均創建於九世紀，它們越來越吸引外國人，尤其是年 青富裕的中國遊客，因為這裡有意大利最華貴的渡假屋、水療中心、 酒莊及米芝蓮星級餐廳。 我急不及待要到托斯卡尼一睹釀酒小鎮，司機Alessandro到佛 羅倫斯機場來接機，開了一個半小時車的車才到達Siena的外圍的 Monastero d’ Ombrone的Castel Monastero Resort and Spa，亦即是 我停留的第一站。Alessandro生長在Siena，塞車時跟我絮叨佛羅倫斯 可怕的交通狀況，還說佛羅倫斯唯一好處是有通往Siena的路。 到達目的地時正好日落，晚霞將酒店所在的十一世紀砂岩建築染 成玫瑰紅色。跨過Castel Monastero的大門，是偌大的庭園，四周是 從中世紀托斯卡尼時代（大約1050年）保存至今的漂亮房舍。這裡最初 作為修道院，之後多個貴族家庭居住於此，成為古堡，十三世紀時幾 次被攻擊，後來被當地一個顯赫家族收購了。 過去五年這裡斥資數百萬元翻修，效果出色。Castel Monastero 目前是廿一世紀健康休養勝地，賓客來自世界各地，在最新式的水療 中心內接受歐洲頂級治療師的服務。Castel Monastero不單只是水療 中心，還是意大利享譽國際的頂級醫療中心之一，為男/女士提供整形 及美容手術、術後康復、重塑及恢復護理。 度假村內有兩家托斯卡尼最有名的餐廳，分別是開設在古堡大型 酒窖內的La Cantina，以及鄰近庭園的戈登拉姆齊餐廳Contrada，後 者獲米芝蓮高度評價。

108 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

There are fewer than 100 inhabitants in each of the wine towns, which sit perched on hills overlooking the magnificent Tuscan countryside. The winding roads leading to them are bordered by vineyards lush with grapes, olive trees and fields filled with sunflowers.

The wine towns, most dating back to the 9th Century, have become popular with overseas visitors, especially affluent young Chinese tourists because they are home to some of Italy’s most opulent resorts, spas, wineries and Michelin star restaurants.

I can’t wait to get to Tuscany to see the wine towns, I tell Alessandro, the young man who picks me up at Florence airport for the 1.5 hour drive to the outskirts of Siena and my first stop, the posh Castel Monastero Resort and Spa in Monastero d’Ombrone.

Alessandro, born and bred in Siena, grumbles about the notorious Florentine traffic we’re stuck in and tells me “the only good thing about Florence is the road leading to Siena.”

By the time we reach Castel Monastero, it’s sunset and the 11th century sandstone buildings that make up the sprawling resort blush red as the golden orb drops behind the Tuscan hills. “I’ll be back to pick you up in a few days—enjoy,” says Alessandro as he speeds off back down the dusty road in the direction of his hometown.

I walk through the yawning entrance of Castel Monastero and into a large courtyard surrounded by handsome residences, holdovers from medieval Tuscany (circa 1050) when this place first served as an abbey. After that, many noble families resided here before it became a castle; it was actually attacked several times in the 13th Century before being bought by a prominent Sienese family.

辦妥入住手續後，服務員帶我到客房，穿過鋪滿鵝卵 石的庭園及古老石籬，來到Contrada Turchese─散落四周 的十一幢建築物之一。托斯卡尼式的房間很舒適，有斜板天 花，我推開百頁木窗，欣賞眼前景緻，但見赤土色的房頂、 被秋風吹成橙或金黃色的葡萄園綿延至天際。 接下來的幾天我盡情享受度假村提供的服務：治療師 Monica為我做了全套按摩，從深層組織到熱石治療，都是 我體驗過最好的；在水療中心泡死海浴池，池水從以色列死 海運來；室外的無邊際泳池享受托斯卡尼陽光；在大型室內 泳池旁邊的蒸氣室揮汗；享用傳統的托斯卡尼美食，在La Cantina嘗過的美味野豬肉，好幾天都在我的味蕾徘徊呢！ 漫步於葡萄園中，儘管果實在早前的豐收節大都已被 採摘，但藤蔓上留下些許紫色葡萄，已足夠我品嚐；後面通 往托斯卡尼古堡的路，如今是精緻的B&B；你也可以跟著當 地農民和他們的犬隻採集松露；還可以品嚐著名的托斯卡尼 Chianti酒，最好是稍為冷藏才飲。 晚上我聽從度假村經理的建議，到20分鐘車程以外的釀 酒鎮Villa a Sesta，造訪這個區域其中一家米芝蓮星級餐廳 ──由名廚Hélène Stoquelet主理的一星米芝蓮餐廳Bottega del 30 (trenta)。(其他四家在錫耶納外圍的米芝蓮餐廳， 分別是在San Gimignano 的Cum Quibus (一星)，Colle Val D’Elsa的Da Arnolfo (二星)，Castillo di Spartena in Galole (Chianti) 的Il Pievano (一星) 以及在Figline 的Castello di Figline (一星) 。) 穿著大廚衣服的Hélène站在Bottega狹窄的入口問道： 「你便是從Castel Monastero來的客人？」 走進狹小但舒服的房間，腳底的地板在咯吱響，這裡有 十來張木桌，老舊的石牆上掛著些業餘畫家的作品，還有大 量烹飪藝術品，以古老開瓶器收藏最引人注目。 閒日的食客不多，一張桌子的一對意大利情侶正在爭 吵，而來自加拿大的四口之家，正在請年青的侍酒師介紹一 瓶好的Chianti酒。我旁邊坐著四個中年美國婦人，大概做著 「托斯卡尼艷陽下」的好夢。Hélène帶來一份菜譜，卻沒交給 我，倒是推薦她為這晚準備的大廚菜譜，說更能滿足我的味 蕾，她肯定也用同樣的方法對待其他顧客，因為我看每個人 都有特定的菜餚。 「 今 晚 我 炮 製 了 鱈 魚 球 ， 茄 子 生 牛 肉 片（ 好 味 ， 真 好 味 ）， 還 有 野 豬（ 牠 們 在 托 斯 卡 尼 的 葡 萄 園 和 高 速 路 上 遊 蕩）。」從巴黎移居到這裡來的大廚介紹著，她和丈夫Franco Camelia 三十五年前開了這家名字古怪的餐廳。

An exhaustive renovation costing millions was done over the past five years and the results are astounding. Castel Monastero is now a 21st Century wellness retreat where people from all over the world come to receive treatments in a stateof-the-art spa manned by arguably Europe’s best therapists. But Castel Monastero is far more than a spa. It’s known internationally as one of Italy’s top medical centres, providing plastic and aesthetic surgery, plus post-op convalescence, and reshaping and rejuvenating operations for both men and women.

The resort is also home to two of Tuscany’s most talked about restaurants: La Cantina, housed in the castle’s massive original wine cellar, and Contrada, a Gordon Ramsey room off the main courtyard, the latter of which is rated by Michelin as one of Italy’s up and coming dining experiences.

After check-in, a member of staff escorts me to my room. We cross the cobbled courtyard and pass through an old stone fence before arriving at Contrada Turchese (turquoise quarter), one of 11 buildings scattered about the property. I throw open the wooden shutters of my cozy Tuscan-style room with the slanted slate ceiling and stand back in amazement at the breathtaking view of terracotta roofs and vineyards turned orange and gold by the autumn winds spread out as far as the eye can see.

For the next few days I enjoy all this magnificent resort offers: Order a full range of massages with my personal therapist Monica, who administers treatments ranging from deep tissue to hot stone treatments, and each ranks among the best I’ve every experienced; take a few dips in the spa’s Dead Sea pool — you float on the famed water that’s imported from Israel’s treasured landmark; hang out at the resort’s lovely outdoor infinity pool and soak up the Tuscan sun; enjoy long stays in the steam room next to the large indoor pool; feast on traditional Tuscan cuisine, the wild boar at La Cantina still lingers favourably on my tongue days later.

You can also hike through the resort’s vineyards, which a week earlier were stripped of their fruit during the harvest festival; there were still a few purple grapes left on the vines for me to sample, though; or take hikes on back roads that lead to smaller Tuscan castles that now serve as chic B&Bs. You can also go hunting for truffles with local farmers and their dogs —the canines try to eat the priceless fungi so the farmers are quick to snatch them from their jaws; and, of course, sample lots of Chianti, the legendary Tuscan wine tastes best when served slightly chilled.

One night, on the advice of the resort manager, I head off to nearby Villa a Sesta, a wine town that’s a 20-minute drive from Castel Monastero. There I visit one of the five Michelin star restaurants in the area: Bottega del 30 (trenta), a one-star Michelin property owned by legendary Chef Hélène Stoquelet. (Others Michelin star restaurants just outside Siena are Cum Quibus (1 star) in San Gimignano, Da Arnolfo (2) in Colle Val D’Elsa, Il Pievano (1) at Castillo di Spartena in Galole (Chianti) and Castello di Figline (1) in Figline.)

“Are you the one from Castel Monastero?” asks Hélène, whose guarding the narrow entrance to Bottega del 30 in a stained chef’s coat.

The floor creaks and squeaks under my feet as I enter the small but cozy low beamed room that has about a dozen wooden tables. The old stone walls are lined with amateur paintings and lots of culinary kitsch, but a collection of ancient corkscrews draws the most attention.

Castel Monastero Resort and Spa的葡萄園貫穿渡假 屋，一到秋天，大自然為它添上繽紛動人的色彩。 The Castel Monastero Resort and Spa’s vineyards lay across from the resort, and in fall mother nature paints them with some vibrant colours.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 109

trAvel

110 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Castel Monastero Resort and Spa的鐘樓在提醒 遊客：這裡最初是宗教人士隱居之地。 The bell tower at Castel Monastero Resort and Spa reminds visitors that this started out as a religious retreat in the 11th century.

Castel Monastero Resort and Spa 周圍佈滿葡萄園和橄欖樹，秋日 果實累累。 The groups of Castel Monastero Resort and Spa are full of wine vineyards and olive trees that are heavy with fruit in the fall months.

侍酒師給我開了一瓶產自本地葡萄園的很不錯的Chianti酒，幾分鐘之 後端來奶油南瓜湯，Hélène在上面加上秋季的泡沫花冠。 在等待鱈魚球的時候， Hélène 解釋餐廳名字的由來：「我們從一個推 銷員手上買下這家店，這個推銷員每30天就會到鄰近的村莊去販賣貨品， Sesta的居民把店喚作Bottega del 30，是因為推鎖員30天出門售貨的習 慣，我們把這店轉做餐廳之後，也保留了這個名字。」Hélène當年到錫耶納 度假，愛上當地的花花公子Franco，結婚之後便沒有離開過。 我在享受超好味的鱈魚球的同時，Hélène介紹鎮上的故事和人物，還 說剛從巴黎來的時候對烹飪知之甚微，「一位本地的老奶奶喜歡我，教我烹 調托斯卡尼美食之道，正是我到今時今日還在為顧客呈顯的東西。」

Hélène一夜成名，因為福布斯雜誌的一位作者1996年不期而至，然後 寫了一篇關於在Bottega del 30的文章。愉快開朗的Hélène笑容燃亮了整個 房間︰「傳真機很快堆滿了來自美國的訂位要求。」隨後是米芝蓮的認可，遊 客從此紛至杳來。 大廚指出：「托斯卡尼菜的要旨是簡單。」她所選用的食材，都來自本地 市場和農場。「Bottega的成功之道是簡單地融合高品質食材，擺放上碟時再 加一點藝術匠心。」

Hélène娓娓道出一位50年來精於煮豆的老婦秘訣，便是用藤條做的酒 籃洗豆，令豆的味道更香。「還有，Lisa跟從家族祖傳除掉菊苣沙拉苦澀味 的方法，便是先像擠香腸一樣擠出汁液，切碎，再沖洗多次。這些來自本地 婦女的小貼士，成就我成為今天的廚師。」 Hélène這夜的每道創意菜式都是味覺享受，醬汁、擺盤、酒水、食材 的新鮮程度、服務，特別是那分復古的氛圍，都遠超於我的期望。 Hélène 對食物的熱忱、對托斯卡尼烹飪傳統的尊敬，以及她那種要滿足遠近而至的 客人的願望，都值得讚賞。 正因為有Castel Monastero這樣的度假村，有Hélène這樣的人，才會 令遊客瘋狂迷戀托斯卡尼，我便是其中一個。

查詢更多詳情，請瀏覽網址www.toureast.com。

The mid-week crowd is small. At one table, an Italian couple is engaged in a heated argument. A Canadian family of four sitting nearby asks the young sommelier to recommend a good bottle of Chianti. Next to me sits four middle-aged American women living out their “Under The Tuscan Sun” dream. Hélène comes back carrying a menu but never hands it to me. Instead, she suggests the chef’s menu she has created for the evening will suit my taste buds better. She’s obviously made the same pitch to the others because everyone is having identical meals.

“Tonight I have created a menu of cod fish balls, followed by eggplant carpaccio (yum, so delicious) and finally wild boar (they roam the vineyards and highways of Tuscany),” says the transplanted Parisian, who opened the restaurant with the odd name with her husband Franco Camelia 35 years ago.

The sommelier uncorks a lovely bottle of Chianti from a local vineyard for me and a few minutes later a server arrives with my amuse bouche, a creamy pumpkin soup with a foamy crown that Hélène has created for the fall season.

While waiting for the cod fish, Hélène explains the origins of the restaurant’s name.

“We bought the shop from a salesman who would go to the surrounding villages every 30 days to sell his wares,” says Hélène, who arrived in Siena on vacation, fell in love with the local playboy, Franco, got married, and never left. “The people of Sesta always referred to the shop as Bottega del 30 because of the salesman’s travels every 30 days, so we just kept the name when we turned it into the restaurant.”

While I enjoy the superb cod dish, Hélène fills me with stories about the town and the characters who live in it. She also tells me she knew little about cooking when she first arrived from Paris. “The local nonnas (grandmothers) took a liking to me and taught me the proper way to prepare Tuscan cuisine and that’s what I continue to present to my customers today.”

Hélène’s big break came when a writer for prestigious Forbes magazine stopped by unannounced in 1996 and wrote a glowing article about his experience at Bottega del 30.

“The fax machine soon lit up with lots of Americans asking for reservations,” laughs the delightful Hélène, who lights up a room with her bright smile. After that came Michelin’s endorsement and the tourists have not stopped coming since.

“The key to Tuscan cooking is simplicity,” says chef, who sources the ingredients that go into her incredible dishes from local markets and farms. “Bottega’s success is the high quality ingredients, simplicity in putting them together and a bit of art in the presentation on the plate.”

Hélène talks fondly of “the old woman whose secret to making great beans for the past 50 years is to first wash them in a wicker wine basket, which gives the beans great flavour.

“And Lisa, who learned from her ancestors that to reduce the bitter taste of radicchio salad, you must first squeeze it like a salami, cut it up finely and then rinse it several times. It’s those small tips from the local women that have helped make me the chef I am today,” says Hélène.

Each of Hélène’s creations on this night are an orgasmic taste delight. The sauces, the plating, the wine, the freshness of the ingredients, the service and especially the antique ambiance are beyond my wildest expectations. Hélène’s passion for food, her respect for the culinary traditions of her adopted Tuscany and her desire to satisfy the appetites of those who come from far and wide are admirable.

It’s resorts like Castel Monastero and people like Hélène why foreigners fall so madly in love with Tuscany. Count me among them.

名廚Hélène Stoquelet和她的烹飪團隊炮製精彩的地道托斯 卡尼美食──豐盛的菜餚注入法式元素。 Chef Hélène Stoquelet (left) and her kitchen staff serve up some amazing regional Tuscan cuisine at one-star Michelin restaurant Bottega del 30 (trenta) in Villa a Sesta, a wine town that’s a 20-minute drive from Castel Monastero.

For more information, visit www.toureast.com.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 111

automobiles

夢想號跑車

A real head turner

The Audi R8 Spyder is what dreams are made of Story | Lorne Drury (Metroland Media)

112 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

與同類型的超級跑車如法拉利、林寶堅 尼、雅士頓馬田和麥拿倫相比，售價低於25萬 元的奧迪R8 V10 Spyder，性價比甚高。 這款德國開篷跑車無論在外觀、動力和 派頭方面，都足與當今世上最佳的開篷跑車媲 美。與許多高性能車不同的是，即使在停停走 走的市區交通，駕駛V10 Plus Spyder仍覺樂 趣和享受。 V10 Plus Spyder搭載5.2公升的V10中 置引擎，輸出602匹馬力。引擎裝置在司機位 後，相信無人會認為它是溫馴和舒適，但若能 輕鬆駕馭這輛經典的德國雙座位開篷跑車，你 就會享受到這兩樣難得的感覺。 車廂座位貼近地面。鑽進穩固、高支撐 力的賽車座椅，按下位於方向盤的鮮紅色開關 鍵，你會馬上聽到引擎爆發出低沉的轟隆咆哮 聲。 R8 V10 Plus Spyder是奧迪性能最強的量 產車，從靜止加速至時速100公里只需3.3秒。 輕踏油門，跑車即輕鬆悠閒地行駛。 如果你想狂奔，這跑車可以滿足你，特 別是按下方向盤上的方格旗按扭來啟動賽車模 式。這時穩定和防滑控制的功能便會降低。 了解到這輛V10 Plus採用了賽車零件後， 就不會奇怪為何它的動力那麼強大和靈敏度那 麼高了。事實上R8與R8 GT3賽車所用的零件 有超過一半是相同的。要是你有機會在賽道上 駕駛，會明白我為何這樣說。 非常糟糕的路面以外，駕著這輛夢想 號超級跑車在空曠的路上馳聘，感覺旅途是 出奇的安穩順滑，部分原因是這車選置了 價值2,300元的奧迪電磁感應懸掛系統(Audi Magnetic Ride) ，提供額外的減震讓行車順滑 流暢。

As supercars go, the Audi V10 Spyder is a bargain at under $250k when compared with competition from the likes of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Aston Martin and McLaren.

At thousands of dollars less, this German drop-top has the looks, power and panache to go head-to-head with the best open-top sports cars the automotive world has to offer.

And unlike many high-performance cars on the road today, the V10 Plus Spyder is a delight to drive, even in stop-and-go city traffic.

With 602 horsepower from its 5.2-litre V10 engine, mounted mid-ship behind the driver, the last thing one would expect is docility and comfort. But that’s exactly what you get when you take it nice and easy in this iconic German two-seater.

Inside the cabin, the seating position is low to the ground. Tuck yourself neatly into the firm, highly-bolstered racing seats, press the bright red start/stop button on the steering wheel and the engine roars to life with a throaty growl.

This is Audi’s most powerful production car ever, with a 0-100 km/h time of 3.3 seconds. But nudge the throttle just slightly and everything moves along slow and easy.

If you want fast, you can get fast— particularly if you punch the checkered-flag performance button on the steering wheel to engage launch control. This is a race setting that dials back both stability and traction control functions.

When you think of it, it’s no wonder this V10 Plus is so powerful and responsive when you consider its racing heritage. The R8 shares more than 50 per cent of its parts with the R8 GT3 race car. If you ever get an opportunity for some track time, you’ll see why.

R8除了有開篷車之外，還有轎跑車和 RWS轎跑車，後者是全球999車型的限量版， 採用後輪驅動，而不是如其他型號般採用一般 的quattro全輪驅動。

Out on the open road, the ride is surprisingly compliant, except on the worst of roads. Part of this is a result of the optional Audi Magnetic Ride ($2,300) that helps smooth things out with extra damping.

V10 Plus車型的馬力高達602匹，而最基 本的車型則輸出532匹馬力。所有車型都配備 了七速S-tronic變速器，通過裝置在方向盤上 的換檔撥片為四個輪胎輸送動力。

Our convertible version of the R8 is one of three variants, joining the coupe and RWS coupe. The latter is a limited edition of 999 models worldwide, featuring rear-wheel drive as opposed to the normal quattro all-wheel drive on the other models. V10 Plus models get a power boost up to 602 horsepower, compared with 532 for the base models. All come with a seven-speed S-tronic transmission with a steering-wheel-mounted paddle shifter that feeds power to all four wheels.

R8是由奧迪位於德國Neckarsulum的車 廠製造，大部分工序由一隊擁有超過240個專 家的團隊以人手操作。奧迪車廠表示，只在非 不得已的情況下，才會使用機械人幫忙。

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 113

automobiles 這不是一輛混在車群會被湮沒的汽車。它鶴立雞群，非常吸睛。在 我試駕這車的一個星期裡，不時發現有人在旁對這車行注目禮，又或是 要求在這輛鮮藍色(Ara Blue)的美麗藝術品前自拍。

Built at Audi’s factory in Neckarsulum, Germany, the R8 is mostly hand built by a team of more than 240 specialists. Robots are used, but Audi says only when absolutely necessary.

第二代的R8並沒有偏離原來設計太多，但比上一代更快、更輕和勁 力更強。由於大量採用鋁質和碳纖維製造，車身重量減輕而堅硬度卻增 加了40%。頂篷很輕，只有44公斤，在時速50公里時，僅需20秒已可開 關頂篷。

The R8 Spyder is not a car that blends in with the crowd. This is a vehicle that never fails to attract a crowd. I can attest to that, for on more than one occasion during my week-long test drive, I returned to the car to find someone looking it over, or asking to take a selfie in front of the beautiful Ara Blue work of art.

雖然這是一輛高性能車，但駕駛者和乘客同樣能感受到那分奢華氣 派和氛圍。奧迪的內飾在業界是數一數二的，R8 Spyder也不負眾望， 選料上乘，提供不同的升級真皮組合，其中一款為鑽石圖案，更顯貴 氣。配以精雕細琢的一流手工，充滿時代氣息。

Now in its second generation, the R8 hasn’t strayed far from its original design. But the new R8 is faster, lighter and more dynamic than its predecessor.

Weight has been reduced, thanks to extensive use of aluminum and carbon fibre, while rigidity has been increased by 40 per cent.

Even the convertible top itself is lightweight, coming in at just 44 kilograms, and it opens and closes in a mere 20 seconds at speeds up to 50 km/h.

奧迪2018年款R8 V10 Plus一覽 優點：強勁和性能超卓，結合精雕細琢的手工和豪華設施。 缺點：沒什麼缺點。 誘人之處：與林寶堅尼Huracan是同一家族，兩者的機械部分相近。 車身款式：雙門高性能開篷跑車。 驅動方式：中置引擎，Quattro全輪驅動。 引擎：5.2公升直噴雙凸輪軸V10引擎 (602匹馬力，扭力413磅/呎)， 配以7速換檔撥片S-tronic自動變速器。 耗油量：17.1/11.3/14.5公升/100公里 市內/高速公路/綜合。 行李箱容量：112公升 價格： V10 Plus型號售222,500元，用作測試的車售245,635元，包括 2,895元運費和交貨前檢驗費。

Audi R8 V10 Plus 2018 at-a-glance: BODY STYLE: Two-door, high-performance convertible DRIVE METHOD: Mid-engine, quattro all-wheel drive ENGINE: 5.2-litre direct injection DOHC V10 engine (602 hp, 413 lb/ft of torque) with seven-speed S-tronic automatic transmission with paddle shifters FUEL ECONOMY: 17.1/11.3/14.5 L/100 km city/highway/combined CARGO: 112 litres WHAT’S BEST: Power and performance, combined with refinement and luxury WHAT’S WORST: Not much to complain about here WHAT’S INTERESTING: The Lamborghini Huracan is a corporate cousin and similar mechanically PRICE: base $222,500; as tested $245,635, including $2,895 freight and PDI audi.ca 114 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

坐在司機位上，有仿如坐在飛機駕駛艙的感覺。以駕駛者為中心的 設計，可以操控很多重要功能而雙手不用離開方向盤。獨特方向盤的其中 一個按扭操控駕駛選擇系統。行車模式包括舒適、自動、動態和個性化四 種，而懸掛、剎車、油門和方向盤會根據所選模式而作出調整。 在司機位前方有一個圖案色彩鮮明的12.3吋屏幕，奧迪稱之為虛擬 駕駛艙系統。它可以作個別設定，包括將儀錶放在導航地圖的兩側。採用 性能模式的視圖時，轉數錶會設置於中間，與在周圍的指示器和儀錶，一 起監控扭矩、油壓、引力、輪胎溫度，甚至圈速。 R8 V10 Plus Spyder售價由229,500元起，我所試駕的售245,635 元，增添了多項選置，包括升級真皮組合(3,400元)、奧迪電磁感應懸掛 系統(2,300元)、名廠Bang & Olufsen音響系統(2,300元)、黑色飾件組合 (Black Optics Package) (1,350元)、奧迪賽車組合(1,900元)，以及奧迪 手機盒連無線充電器(700元) 。 這輛真正的超級跑車憑瀟洒外觀和高超性能，無論走到哪裡都能惹 來艷羨目光。

While this is a high-performance vehicle, driver and passenger are treated to a look and feel of luxury inside the cabin. Audi’s interiors are among the best in the business and the R8 Spyder lives up to that reputation with different leather packages, including one with a diamond pattern. Overall, the cabin has a slick, modern look and feel,with luxurious materials and excellent fit and finish.

Sitting in the driver’s seat, you feel like you’re in an aircraft cockpit.

It is driver-centric and you can control many important functions without taking your hands off the wheel.

One of the buttons on the distinctive R8 steering wheel controls the Audi drive select system. Choose from Comfort, Auto, Dynamic or Individual to tweak the suspension, braking, throttle and steering.

Directly in front of the driver is a 12.3-inch screen with brilliant graphics—what Audi calls a virtual cockpit. It can be individually configured, including one view that places the gauges on either side of the navigation map.

In performance view, the tach is in the middle with other indicators and gauges around it to monitor torque, oil pressure, g-forces, tire temperature and even lap times.

The R8 V10 Plus Spyder starts at $229,500 and our tester priced out at $245,635, with options such as Extended Leather ($3,400), Audi Magnetic Ride ($2,300), Bang & Olufsen sound system ($2,300), Black Optics Package ($1,350), Audi Sport Package ($1,900) and Audi phonebox with wireless charging ($700).

The R8 Spyder is a true supercar with the looks and performance that are sure to attract attention wherever you go.

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 115

tech

Canon EOS R $2,999.99

全片幅無反機

Canon and Nikon debut full frame mirrorless cameras Story | Ringo Chan Canon終於踏上全片幅無反相機這條路。隨著全新EOS R系統而來的，是4支新鏡頭，當中有3支是高階紅圈鏡。 少了反光鏡的EOS R，機身減輕減細，重量為660g， 雖不及Sony輕巧，但由於手柄位加厚了，握手感媲美傳統 單反。EOS R系統的接環內徑為54mm，跟EF接環相同，只 要駁上連接環，就可以用回之前的EF及EF-S超大陣型鏡頭。 採用了雙像素CMOS自動對焦技術的EOS R，每個像 素既可取像亦可對焦，使它的自動對焦點多達5,655個，數 字大幅超越混合式AF對焦，自動對焦速度更是全球最快的 0.05秒。不夠快的是相機只提供8fps的最高連拍以及5fps的 追焦連拍，遜於其他無反機。 EOS R用的是具3,030萬像Full Frame CMOS感光元 件，跟單反5D Mark IV屬同一級數，配合最新的DIGIC 8 影像處理器，規格稱得上是最高，IOS值亦由32000提高至 40000。 有兩個設計值得特別一讚的。首先是機背的拇指位置 新增了輕觸式「Multi-Function Bar」（M-Fn Bar），以「滑動」 及「輕按」操作，可自訂不同功能（white balance、拍攝模式 等） ；另一項是360度轉向側翻式熒幕，這設計是愛自拍人士 的福音。機頂上的128×128 點陣式LCD，能直接操控及檢 視不同的拍攝資訊，是有助單反用家適應的貼心設計。

116 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

dECEmbEr

•

2018

Canon has finally introduced a full-frame mirrorless camera.

Along with the new EOS R system, there are four new lenses, three of which are high-end ultrasonic motor (USM) lenses.

With no reflex mirror, EOS R is lighter at just 660 grams. It is not as compact as Sony, but the battery grip feels as snug to hold as a single-lens reflex (SLR) camera. The 54-millimetre EOS R mount has the same diameter as the EF mount, which means it is compatible with the wide range of EF and EF-S lenses.

With Dual Pixel CMOS AF, all pixels of EOS R can be used as imaging pixels and phase detection AF pixels, and it has a whopping 5,655 AF positions, far more than the hybrid AF. The auto-focus speed at 0.05 seconds is hailed as the fastest yet. The only drawback is that the camera only offers 8 fps for shooting speed, and drops down to 5 fps when AF enabled, which is low compared to its peers.

EOS R uses 30.3 MP full-frame CMOS, same as 5D Mark IV SLR. Together with the new DIGIC 8 image processor, it is a cut above.

The ISO range is also extended from 32,000 to 40,000.

Two other outstanding features are worth noting. It has added a Multi-Function Bar (M-Fn Bar) positioned under the thumb for scrolling and touch-changing settings, such as white balance and shooting mode. The fully articulating screen is also a boon for selfie enthusiasts. The top 128-128 dot-matrix LCD display for controlling and checking settings is a thoughtful feature for SLR users to get used to this mirrorless camera.

同樣是新系統的全片幅無反相機，對Nikon Z的接環系統 多了一份超大光圈的憧憬。

Also in the mirrorless camera family, Nikon Z offers a new dimension of optical performance.

法蘭距（flange focal distance），指從鏡頭口金屬環到感 光元件的距離，距離愈短代表光線由鏡頭最後一塊鏡片走到 感光元件路程愈短、失真愈少，也減少四角失光的問題。無 反系統的其中一項優點是法蘭距更短，有助機身設計得更纖 細。Sony的E-Mount法蘭距是18mm，Nikon這回Z-Mount採 用了更短的16mm。Nikon Z同時採用了55mm內直徑的鏡頭 接環口徑，比Canon的EF Mount只大了1mm，這僅僅的1mm 已能讓更多光線進入相機。這兩項獨特設計，令Nikon Z系 統帶給相機迷一個重大期盼：一支大光圈的鏡頭NIKKOR Z 58mm f/0.95S，將於下年隆重推出。

Flange focal distance is the distance between the lens mount to the image sensor. The shorter the distance between the back lens and the image sensor, the better the image quality, with little corner shading. One good thing about mirrorless cameras is their short flange focal distance, and the camera bodies can be slimmer as a result. Sony’s E-mount has a flange focal distance of 18mm, but Nikon’s Z-Mount has its shortened to 16mm. As well, Nikon Z uses a 55mm mount, 1mm wider than Canon’s EF Mount to let in more light. These two factors make the Nikon Z series something to look forward to – the NIKKOR Z 58mm f/0.95S lens will be in the market next year.

今天Nikon帶來新系統相機Z7及Z6，兩者的分別在於 Z7主打影像銳利的高像素（4,570 萬有效像素），Z6則以低光 拍攝（ISO 100-51200）及高速連拍（12 fps）取勝。採用全新 EXPEED 6影像處理引擎，以焦平面相位偵測自動對焦，Z7 具493個對焦點而Z6則有273點。兩款相機都採用369萬像的 OLED電子觀景器，畫面覆蓋率及放大率為100%及0.8x，相 機更備有相當於5級光學防震的防震系統。

Right now, Nikon has introduced Z7 and Z6. The Z7 stands out for high resolution images, at 45.7MP, while the Z6 boasts good performance in low light, offering ISO 100-51200, and 12fps continuous shooting. They both feature the new EXPEED 6 image processing engine with focal-plane phase-detection AF. The Z7 has 493 focus points and the Z6 has 273. Both have adopted the 3690k-dot OLED panel. Frame coverage and magnification are approximately 100% and 0.8x, and both offer five-axis image stabilization.

Nikon Z Mount Z7 with NIKKOR Z 24-70mm lens - $5,549.99 Z6 with NIKKOR Z 24-70mm lens - $3,649.99

ELITEGEN

•

dEcEmbEr

•

2 0 1 8 117

Been There 關注星尚，緊貼潮流。潮人潮服，名貴新品，華麗派對，搶先預賞新刊以及讀者回饋活動， 盡在Instagram: @EliteGenMag。Hashtag #EliteGen，你的圖片更有機會登上《星尚》。 Discover inspiring images, new luxury products, the latest fashion and the swankiest parties. Readers are invited to hashtag us for a chance to get featured: #EliteGen. Watch out for sneak previews of future issues and giveaways too.

The night was sweet at “One Night in La Dolce Vita” @shopsquareone, where the Grand Rotunda was transformed into an Italian piazza. The highlight was a pizza-making competition, just like in #LittleItalyFilm, but it was a competition between Oakville Trafalgar Memorial Hospital and Trillium Health Partners Foundation, charity partners of the event. Iron Chef @bobbyflay presided as judge and matched the $5,000 donation prize! More than $90K was raised that evening. Congratulations!

We spy Mark Chao #趙又廷 at the Tiffany #bluebookcollection2018 in NYC! The high jewelry collection features the house’s most imaginative oneof-a-kind pieces, crafted with the world’s most precious and responsibly sourced gemstones. We wonder whether he has chosen a piece or two from the Four Seasons of Tiffany collection for his beautiful wife. 高圓 圓 @gaoyuanyuan_gyy #三生三世十里桃花 (Photo credit: Getty Images for Tiffany & Co.) 118 E L I T E G E N. C A

•

DECEMBER

•

2018

Where could one pick up a new haute luxe belt, a silk scarf kimono and some fashion advice? The SRA store on Toronto’s Queen Street West, by Torontobased international accessories designer @suziroher.

Thank you for inviting us to learn how to do personal branding through wardrobe with image consultant Susan Carlucci. #dressforsuccess #人靠衣妝 (Photo credit @5ive15ifteen)

Happy 50th birthday @sassoontoronto! Our special correspondent @anthonycheng5811 strikes a pose with models sporting the iconic Vidal Sassoon bob at their birthday bash. #bob #yorkvillevillage #維達 沙宣

How do you pair wines with vegan food? According to master sommeliers @johnszaboms and Jennifer Huether, exactly the same as with other foods – by balancing fattiness, sweetness, saltiness, acidity, bitterness and umami. To put theory into action, we went to @plantatoronto to try out chef David Lee’s creations with a number of Jackson Family Wines. We have found a new favourite: 2017 Pinot Noir Rose from Saralee’s Vineyard @lacremawines. #餐酒配素食

Our associate publisher @leslieyip0911 and editorial director Alan Vernon preview the latest collection from @graff. The collection made a limited-time appearance at Birks Yorkdale, and has now headed off to the new official Graff store on West Georgia Street in Vancouver. #格拉夫珠寶 #正式登陸加拿大