Cape Cod and the Islands magazine » Spring 2020

SPRING 2020

SPRING 2020

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EDITOR

Dear reader, Welcome! The issue you hold in your hands is the very first issue of Cape Cod and the Islands. Late last year, our small but mighty team set out on a mission to produce a locally owned, independent magazine about the people, places, and experiences that can only be found here on Cape Cod, Nantucket, and Martha’s Vineyard.

It’s fitting to launch our quarterly magazine in the spring—the season of growth and new beginnings— and new beginnings are essential, especially during these challenging and unprecedented times. Many local businesses have been hit hard by the mandated closures, and now more than ever, our community needs us.

When you are able to, take the time to support the local businesses: go out to eat, shop for gifts, and visit museums and galleries.

We hope this issue can help steer your engagement.

As you flip through this book, you’ll discover guides to art galleries, exhibitions, and breakfast spots. Writer Bill Higgins tees off at seven local golf courses in seven days, and writer Maria Allen spends the weekend in Chatham and assembles an itinerary that is equal parts adventure and relaxation. On a visit to a Dennis eatery, writer Lannan O’Brien digs into what it really means to be part of a community.

Thank you for reading. We’re looking forward to sharing stories with you.

Enjoy!

DERRICK ZELLMANN

There is a pull to this region—it’s been magnetic for centuries, and lucky for us, magnetic places have a tendency to be overflowing with good stories. We believe stories are powerful: they teach and inspire us, and they spark empathy. We are honored that it is our job to share stories with you every season, and in doing so, we hope we can introduce you to a new neighbor, business, experience, or perspective.

The more of this you do, the more excited you get about the craft that’s involved. Any boat builder will tell you that—you are just trying to get better and better and better.

– ROSS GANNON, PG. 28 As the season progresses and different plants bloom, we can see quite a palette of color and to see it spread across a frame is quite something.

It can be creamy white, red, or purple during the season.

– CLAIRE DESILETS, PG. 36 This place brings people together. That’s the whole thing.

– CHEF PATRICK MONAHAN, PG. 72 I am happily noticing a new sign of spring each day whether it be a freshly constructed bird’s nest on the porch, louder bird songs in the morning, or the announcement of still more baby lambs from the farm down the road.

– SARAH WALDMAN, PG. 88 Her writing blends the distant world with what’s close to home, creating depth and nuance by layering the universal with the highly personal.

– LAUREN WOLK, PG. 94

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INSIDE THE ISSUE

On the Cover On the cover of this issue of Cape Cod and the Islands, local artist Hans de Castellane painted a beloved Provincetown scene. de Castellane is a painter, muralist, and owner of de Castellane Gallery in Dennis Port. His work often captures scenes from the peninsula he grew up on. We sat down with him to learn more about his art, career, and the painting on the cover.

When did you know you wanted to pursue art as a career?

Truthfully, my first choice was to be a Formula 1 race car driver, but that didn’t work out! I had markers in my hand for my entire childhood and just never really stopped making art. My grandmother signed me up for painting lessons when I was six and always made me feel like I was good at art, which helped.

She got me a job at a t-shirt shop, designing logos when I was in high school, so I decided to pursue graphic design, which led me to Pratt Institute in Brooklyn and a degree in communication design. I came home from school and did a couple of murals and painting commissions. In 2012, I opened de Castellane Gallery in downtown Dennis Port.

Who have been your greatest influences as an artist?

As far as painters, I love how Edward Hopper paints light and shadow, how James Michalopoulos warps things and uses such bold colors, and I have always loved Vincent van Gogh’s work and his story—if he only knew!

What are you trying to express through your work?

I have a few different styles I like to play around with—sometimes my work is edgy and expressive, and sometimes it is more illustrative and detailed. The Cape Cod scenes I do are definitely painted the way I see the Cape. I may embellish a few elements and not include something that’s there—almost the way one’s memory of a scene tends to make edits.

In what ways has the Cape influenced your work?

I was the first person in my family to be born here, so I am technically the only local in a family of “washashores.” It is interesting to grow up in a place that has such a fluctuation of population from the off season to summer. I am not a fan of the cold and things do get quiet around here, but there are also less distractions, so I get more work done.

Thank you for painting our cover! Tell us about it.

I came across this house years ago while walking around Provincetown, and I always wanted to do a painting of it. It’s tucked in with the brick patio, and there are colorful flowers and that huge American flag. I would love to do a whole series of Provincetown architecture someday; there are so many amazing little places. de Castellane Gallery 669 Main St, Dennis Port decastellanegallery.com

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CONTRIBUTORS

SPRING 2020 K E L LY C H A S E Editor-in-Chief ERIC BRUST-AKDEMIR Creative Director REBECCA BANAS Advertising Account Executive FAT I H A K D E M I R Managing Publisher MARIA ALLEN L I S A C AVA N A U G H LISA CONNORS BILL HIGGINS LANNAN M. O’BRIEN S A R A H WA L D M A N LAUREN WOLK C o n t r i b u t i n g Wr i t e r s ELIZABETH CECIL M AT T C O S B Y JULIA CUMES DAN CUTRONA MARCY FORD DERRICK ZELLMANN Contributing Photographers DAW N O R V I S Proofreader / Fact-Checker CAPECODANDTHEISLANDSMAG.COM

@CAPEANDISLANDSMAG

Cape Cod & The Islands Magazine is published quarterly by Scorton Creek Media © 2020 For subscription inquires or a change of address to P.O. BOX 723 East Sandwich, MA 02537 Subscription rate is $20.00 for 4 issues; $35.00 for 8 issues; $50.00 for 12 issues. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks for a new subscription to begin. Printed in the U.S.A. March 2020 Volume 1/Issue 1 For advertising: rebecca@capecodandtheislandsmag.com To contact us for questions or comments: customerservice@capecodandtheislandsmag.com Letters to the editor: feedback@capecodandtheislandsmag.com

Matt Cosby is a photographer based on Martha’s Vineyard where he lives with his wife and their two cats. He’s been interested in people and what people are interested in for as long as he can remember. Cosby travels near and far to chase light and capture energy in his images. His photography is inspired by kindness, coffee, and human connection (in no particular order). Matt’s work has been published in Rolling Stone and Time, and he is also a contributing photographer to The New York Times.

MATT COSBY

Lannan O’Brien is a Cape freelance writer and editor whose work has appeared in several area newspapers and lifestyle magazines, as well as the restaurant blog for Seafood Sam’s in Sandwich. She enjoys telling local stories and all things food and drink, as evidenced by her columns in this issue.

Bill Higgins is an award-winning former newspaper sports editor and writer who has covered everything from World Series, Super Bowls, Stanley Cups, and NBA championships to the Masters golf tournament, Boston Marathons, America’s Cup yacht races, and World Cup soccer matches. Beyond the fun and games, Bill’s most memorable and proudest moments have been his family and 38-year marriage to Marsha—she’s a Yankees fan, but he likes to remind her that the Red Sox have won four World Series since 2004. They have a wonderful son and daughter and four grandchildren. The youngest of five children, Bill still tries to heed his Dad’s advice: “You have two ears, one mouth…you’ll do well if you listen twice as much as you talk.”

LANNAN O’BRIEN

BILL HIGGINS

Sarah Waldman is a health-focused home cook who develops recipes for simple, nourishing meals appropriate for every member of the family. Her cookbook, Feeding a Family: A Year of Simple and Healthy Family Dinners was published by Roost Books in 2017. Sarah lives on Martha’s Vineyard with her husband and two young sons.

Lisa Cavanaugh grew up in Massachusetts and Connecticut and spent most of her summers on Cape Cod. After graduating from Boston College and working in Off-Broadway production in New York City, she moved to Los Angeles where she became a Hollywood story editor, producer, and writer. While in California, Lisa also helped to launch an educational nonprofit, where she created a unique moviemaking program for teens. After moving back to the East Coast in 2010, Lisa met and married her husband, a commercial fisherman, and they now reside in the Yarmouth house that was originally her grandparents’ home.

Lisa regularly writes about the rich variety of lifestyles, occupations, and interests of people on the Cape and islands.

SARAH WALDMAN

LISA CAVANAUGH

Derrick Zellmann is a Food & Portrait Photographer based between Boston and Cape Cod. His images of the region’s most crave-able culinary dishes and the top chefs who create them have been featured in national magazines, food brands and commercial campaigns.

DERRICK ZELLMANN

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INSIDE THE ISSUE

P24. PROFILE

P64. HOME REMODEL

P36. A DAY IN THE LIFE

P42. ART GALLERY TRAIL

P72. FOOD & DRINK

P48. GOLF

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS 6 / EVENTS ON THE HORIZON From museum exhibits to herring runs, here’s our guide for the season.

WELLNESS 16 / EXPLORE THE CAPE ON FOOT An 11-mile scenic run that passes open fields, farm animals, and coastal lookouts.

TRAVEL 18 / A Spring Weekend in Chatham

PROFILE 24 / The Many Talents of Cape Cod Musician Sarah Swain

LIFE + STYLE 28 / A Visit to Gannon & Benjamin Marine Railway on Martha’s Vineyard 36 / A Day In the Life of a Cape Cod Beekeeper 42 / Art Gallery Trail 48 / A Round and a Round: A Cape and Islands Golf Vacation

HOME 56 / HAPPY PLACE A homeowner in Osterville designs and builds a light-filled space all her own.

64 / RANCH REMODEL A thoughtful refresh for a sentimental property

FOOD & DRINK 72 / CLEAN SLATE EATERY 78 / C SALT BAR & GRILLE 80 / BREAKFAST SPOTS

RECIPE 88 / A Spring Soup from a Vineyard Kitchen

WRITER’S SHACK 94 / The Work of Local Poet Elizabeth Bradfield

FINAL THOUGHT P28. Boat Building

96 / Thoreau’s Cape Cod

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S P R I N G C A L E N DA R

CALENDAR FOR SPRING Here is our curated list of events to celebrate the season on Cape Cod and the islands.

Due to health and safety protocols, many spring events and programs have new timelines. Before visiting, please call or visit the organizations’ websites for details.

MUSEUMS

Modern Mix Selections from the Cape Cod Museum of Art and the Cahoon Museum of American Art A collaboration that celebrates why the museums were founded in the first place—to preserve and share the work of American artists from Cape Cod and beyond. A few artists who will be on display include Sam Feinstein, Arnold Geissbuhler, Betty Lane, Claire Leighton, William Littlefield, Vernon Smith, and Donald Stoltenberg.

Cahoon Museum of American Art 4676 Falmouth Road, Route 28, Cotuit cahoonmuseum.org

Modern Mix Selections from the Cape Cod Museum of Art and the Cahoon Museum of American Art

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Journey: 400 Years After the Mayflower Arrived in North America Printmakers of Cape Cod and the Tamar Valley Printmakers from the United Kingdom will present a new body of artistic work titled “Journey” to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the Mayflower’s historic journey to North America. This new body of original prints, created by twenty artists from the U.S. and 20 from the U.K., will be exhibited in both countries during 2020.

You can see the exhibition at the Cape Cod Museum of Art. Cape Cod Museum of Art 60 Hope Lane, Dennis, ccmoa.org

Stunning Views, Amazing Museum & Special Events

JOIN US FOR 400TH ANNIVERSARY EVENTS! June: Provincetown 400 Opening Ceremony September: Mayflower II and Mayflower Descendants visit Provincetown (tours, gala events, parade, and more!)

October: Wampanoag Cultural Day* November: Annual Lighting of the Pilgrim Monument PLUS – Chamber Music for the Outer Cape* Monumental 4th of July Picnic* First Light Champagne & Fireworks* & Weekly Summer Walking Tours Visit www.pilgrim-monument.org and www.provincetown400.org for more details or *tickets

1 High Pole Hill Road, Provincetown, MA 508–487–1310 www.pilgrim-monument.org

S P R I N G C A L E N DA R

He Wrote it all down Zealously, Edward Gorey House

He Wrote it all down Zealously This delightful exhibit looks closely at the creative process of a highly creative artist.

Come enjoy an intimate look through the pages of dozens of Edward Gorey’s notebooks and sketchbooks and peek at unpublished, and even unfinished works.

Edward Gorey House 8 Strawberry Lane, Yarmouth Port edwardgoreyhouse.org

“Our” Story: 400 Years of Wampanoag History, Heritage Museums & Gardens

all produced here in New England. Come find your favorite New England-made toys and games and learn the fascinating—and sometimes surprising—stories about the people who brought them to life. This exhibition is a play room, time capsule, and a history lesson all in one.

Heritage Museums & Gardens 67 Grove St., Sandwich heritagemuseumsandgardens.org

Bugs, Birds, & Bricks International brick artist, Cody Wells will create five custom brick installations consisting of 21 individual sculptures of insects and birds native to Cape Cod. Placed within the grounds and gardens, these sculptures highlight the interconnected relationships between the plants and animals that can be seen on a visit to Heritage.

Heritage Museums & Gardens 67 Grove St., Sandwich heritagemuseumsandgardens.org

Let’s Play: New England Toy Stories What do Monopoly, Erector Sets, and corn husk dolls have in common? They were 8 » capecodandtheislandsmag.com

Let’s Play: New England Toy Stories, Heritage Museums & Gardens

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Edward Curtis: Shadow Catcher, Cahoon Museum

“Our” Story: 400 Years of Wampanoag History In 2020, America will commemorate the 400th anniversary of the Mayflower voyage and the founding of Plymouth Colony, a story that cannot be told without the perspective of the indigenous people who were here as that ship arrived and who still remain. This exhibition reveals little-known historic and cultural realities of the Wampanoag. “Our” Story is a multi-year, multi-chapter, multimedia project and will be traveling throughout the region in 2020.

Heritage Museums & Gardens 67 Grove St., Sandwich heritagemuseumsandgardens.org

Edward Curtis: Shadow Catcher This exhibition features a selection of early twentieth century photographic images from

Edward Curtis’s renowned body of work, “The North American Indian,” one of the most significant records of Native American culture ever produced.

Cahoon Museum 4676 Falmouth Road, Route 28, Cotuit cahoonmuseum.org

60 Over 60 This spring Highfield Hall will host an art show that includes 60 pieces of artwork by women over the age of 60. Many of the women grew up in the 1960s, and they have some interesting perspectives to share about cultural shifts and their experiences coming of age in the latter part of the twentieth century.

Highfield Hall and Gardens 56 Highfield Drive, Falmouth highfieldhallandgardens.org

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S P R I N G C A L E N DA R

Vision 2020: Found, Formed, Fused More and more frequently, artists use a wide variety of material in their works. “Vision 2020: Found, Formed, Fused,” at the Cape Cod Museum of Art will feature nine New England artists who have created two- and threedimensional work featuring mostly non-traditional material.

Co-curated by Deborah Pressman and Cecilia Rossey, the exhibition explores the transformation of pedestrian materials into surprising, inspiring, and sculptural objects.

Cape Cod Museum of Art 60 Hope Lane, Dennis, ccmoa.org

Joseph C. Lincoln: A Captain’s Son Writes of Cape Cod Join the Atwood for an insightful lecture about the famed and prolific author, Joseph C. Lincoln with Bob Heppe.

Lincoln is the author of numerous novels, short stories, and poetry, and much of his work was inspired by the Cape

Vision 2020: Found, Formed, Fused, Cape Cod Museum of Art

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Joseph C. Lincoln: A Captain’s Son Writes of Cape Cod, Atwood Museum

Cod landscape. Heppe has been a docent at the Atwood Museum for the past three years, and as part of his duties, he has responsibility for the Joseph C. Lincoln gallery.

Atwood Museum 347 Stage Harbor Road, Chatham chathamhistoricalsociety.org

THEATER

Alice: A New Musical This award-winning new musical adapted from Lewis Carroll’s “Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland” and “Through the Looking Glass” takes the audience on a fantastical adventure.

Alice must rely on her quick wit and big heart in order to learn the customs of the distorted new world she lands in. Children will find the story magical and enchanting while an older audience may find it more poignant and whimsical.

Cape Cod Theatre Company 105 Division St., West Harwich capecodtheatrecompany.org

Leader of the Pack, The Ellie Greenwich Musical This hit Broadway musical retrospective celebrates the life and times of Ellie Greenwich, whose songs rose to the top of the 1960s charts. The story of

Founder and Music Director Matthew Scinto, Cape Cod Chamber Orchestra

Ellie’s rise to fame and fortune is punctuated with her hits: “Chapel of Love,” “Da Doo Ron Ron,” “Be My Baby,” “Hanky Panky,” Do Wah Diddy Diddy,” “And Then He Kissed Me,” and “Leader of the Pack.”

Cape Cod Theatre Company 105 Division St, West Harwich capecodtheatrecompany.org

Private Lives “Private Lives,” a Broadway play written by Noel Coward about a rollercoaster romance, will be at the Cape Playhouse this spring. The comedy is open to attendees who are over the age of ten.

Cape Playhouse 820 Main Street, Route 6A, Dennis capeplayhouse.com

MUSIC

Toward the Sea Enjoy music of Mozart, Takemitsu, and a world premiere by composer Cody Forrest, as the Cape Cod Chamber Orchestra takes a contemporary look at the Mayflower’s 400th anniversary.

Cape Cod Chamber Orchestra 533 Rt. 28, Harwich Port capecodchamberorchestra.org

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S P R I N G C A L E N DA R

All Worn Out Jug Band The All Worn Out Jug Band has been delighting audiences on Cape Cod, the Islands, and Southeastern Massachusetts for the past 20 years. In celebration of the post-modern Jug Band era, AWOJB presents an eclectic mix of jug band music, country, blues, bluegrass and gospel, with songs from classic performers like Johnny Cash and Hank Williams to folk artists like Bob Dylan.

Cape Cod Theatre Company 105 Division St, West Harwich capecodtheatrecompany.org

Visions: Mozart & Mahler For the very first time, the Cape Symphony presents Mahler’s epic Symphony No. 5, an extravagant opus filled with the hyperemotionality of the last great Romantic composer.

Cape Symphony 1060 Falmouth Rd A, Hyannis capesymphony.org

Leader of the Pack, The Ellie Greenwich Musical Cape Cod Theatre Company

Brewster in Bloom

Crescendo Join the Cape Symphony at the Wychmere Beach Club for an evening of fine dining, exclusive live and silent auction items, and live entertainment, including a performance by the Cape Symphony led by artistic director and conductor, Jung-Ho Pak. Cape Symphony 1060 Falmouth Rd A, Hyannis capesymphony.org

COMMUNITY-WIDE EVENTS Brewster in Bloom

The 34th annual Brewster in Bloom Festival will host a variety of events from arts and crafts shows and live music to the 5K Bloom Run. Various locations, brewster-capecod.com

EarthTech Expo EarthTech Expo 2020 showcases the tech, products and practices surrounding renewable energy, energy efficiency, recycling, home automation, and other environmentally related topics. EarthTech Expo helps Cape Codders make informed decisions about reducing their carbon footprint and living greener, more sustainable lives.

CapeSpace 100 Independence Drive, Hyannis cctechcouncil.org

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— BESPOKE WEDDING CAKES —

The Bashful Tarte The Bashful Tarte Bakery prides itself on its couture wedding cakes, which are as beautiful as they are delicious to eat.

Our team creates works of art to match the dessert of your dreams. Located in Yarmouth, The Bashful Tarte Bakery has been awarded not only Best of the Knot, but has also been featured on Martha Stewart Weddings! We are always thrilled to meet couples by appointment.

Please visit our website

TheBashfulTarte.com

or contact us via email at thebashfultarte@yahoo.com for scheduling. @thebashfultarte

@thebashfultarte

S P R I N G C A L E N DA R

Provincetown 400 Opening Ceremony Officially kick off the commemorative year!

This event will start the 2020 commemorative season and will include remarks from MA Representative Sarah Peake and MA Senator Julian Cyr. This event is free and open to the public.

Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum, 1 High Pole Hill Rd., Provincetown provincetown400.com

Sandwich Arts and Crafts Shows

Cape Symphony Artistic Director & Conductor Jung-Ho Pak

ArtWeek ArtWeek is a ten-day festival featuring unique and unexpected experiences that offer behind-the-scenes access to artists and their creative processes. Visit the website for a full list of events that include outdoor photography classes, art talks with professional artists, creative markets, and a number of special showcases and events.

Various Locations artweekma.org

Cape Cod Maritime Days The month-long event celebrates maritimethemed activities all over the Cape, including guided kayak excursions, lighthouse and walking tours, nautical art exhibits, and more.

Visit the website for a full list of events.

Various locations capecodchamber.org

One of the oldest organizations on the peninsula, Sandwich Artisans hosts arts and crafts shows throughout the spring and summer. Stop by to browse locally made jewelry, pottery, glasswork, fine art, photography, clothing, and more.

Sandwich Public Library 142 Main St., Sandwich sandwich-artisans.com

Wellfleet Restaurant Week Presented by the ​Wellfleet Chamber of Commerce, ​Restaurant Week is a ​week-long event ​that gives both locals and visitors alike an opportunity to enjoy all that Wellfleet has to offer before the kicking off the busy summer season. Many restaurants and shops will be offering specials.

Various locations wellfleetrestaurantweek.com

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Herring Runs on Cape Cod This time of year, Alewives and Blueback Herring return to the Cape Cod rivers after traveling hundreds of miles in the Atlantic Ocean.

From mid-April to late May, you can to witness the event yourself. Here are some known areas to watch.

Stony Brook Herring Run

Bournedale Herring Run

Stony Brook Grist Mill, Stony Brook Road, Brewster

Carter Beal Conservation Area, Herring Pond Road, Bourne

Eastham Herring Run

Santuit Pond

Mashpee Wampanoag / Route 130

Pilgrim Lake

Herring Brook Road, between Bridge Pond Drive and Cole Road, Eastham

Next to the Mashpee Wampanoag Museum, Mashpee

Harwich Herring Run Depot Street, West Harwich

Santuit Pond Preserve, 117 Main Street, Mashpee

Herring Brook Way, off Monument Road, Orleans Other notable locations: Red Lily Pond in Barnstable, Red Brook in Bourne, Stillwater Pond in Chatham, Bound Brook in Dennis, Coonamessett River in Falmouth, Mill Creek in Sandwich, and Long Pond in Yarmouth.

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Wellness R U N N I N G

ON THE RUN … ACROSS THE CAPE

BY LISA CONNORS

When I tell my friends about my long runs, which range from 10 to 20 miles, they usually have some funny reactions like “I don’t even drive that far!” There was a time when I would have agreed with them, but running has changed my life in many ways—physically, mentally, and socially.

Ever since I laced up my first pair of running shoes six years ago, the sport has opened up a whole new world to me. I have discovered beautiful wooded trails, stunning vistas, and my own secret paths across the Cape. There is nothing like the fresh air to clear my head, relieve stress, and focus on myself for an hour (or two or three!). Since I work in publishing and

advertising, I find that hitting the pavement also inspires great story ideas and clever marketing content.

Although I run on the Lower Cape during the week, I look forward to my Saturday morning routine which takes me over to historic Barnstable Village to meet my running group. We are affectionately known as the Village Idiots, and we gather in the parking lot behind the fire station at 7:30 a.m., where we stretch, exchange a few laughs, and mentally prepare for the long run ahead. Most participants are seasoned runners who run half marathons and marathons, but all levels and paces are welcome.

Beginning and ending at Barnstable Fire Station (3249 Main St.), this 11-mile run passes open fields, farm animals, and coastal lookouts. The running group then gathers at Nirvana Coffee Company (3206 Main St.).

Barnstable Historical Society

Barnstable Fire Station

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We typically run five-mile loops, but lately we have been changing it up a bit and running along historic Route 6A and turning down scenic side roads, where we pass beautiful marshland, flowing streams, and harbor views. Sometimes when I’m having a difficult run, I try to remind myself to look up and enjoy the route of rolling hills, antique homes, stone walls, and acres of farmland.

One of my favorite routes lately: Running to Bone Hill Road, which leads to Long Pasture Wildlife Sanctuary.

Here you can see farm animals, open fields, and stunning views of Barnstable Harbor and Sandy Neck Barrier Beach. It’s the perfect place to take a break and

appreciate nature, and since it’s a hilly route, the quiet is a reward for running so many inclines!

The best part about our Saturday morning routine comes at the finish when we gather at Nirvana Coffee Company to relax, joke around over coffee, and talk about upcoming training runs and races.

Now that spring is upon us, it’s the perfect time to look ahead to summer or fall for a race. The hardest part about running is taking that first step out the door. Are you ready? Whether you’re running one mile or 10 miles, get outside, and enjoy nature!

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Travel C H AT H A M

BY MARIA ALLEN

Few things are more soothing than gazing out at the ocean and listening to the waves crash on the shore.

CHATHAM BARS INN

CHATHAM BARS INN

Chatham has arguably one of the most spectacular stretches of coastline found on Cape Cod and if you visit in the springtime, you’ll likely have the entire beach to yourself. Locals refer to this as the “shoulder” season—a time of year when the streets are quiet, the room rates are deeply discounted, and you’ll never have to fight for parking. Just remember to pack a warm jacket to keep you cozy when cool sea breezes are blowing.

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FRIDAY 4 p.m.

Located on Shore Road and offering panoramic ocean views, Chatham Bars Inn is the ultimate home base for a relaxing getaway, no matter the season. A grand dame of timeless elegance, the inn has been serving up warmth and hospitality to guests since 1914. The Main Inn is reminiscent of a stately seaside mansion, with cozy sitting rooms where guests relax in heavy leather armchairs, play board games, and cozy up to one of several working fireplaces. In addition to the guest rooms in the Main Inn, there are multiple seaside cottages on the property that offer special accommodations. At Whaler’s Watch, for example, guests can enjoy a picturesque vista outside their front door. Brightly colored fishing boats, glow in the late afternoon light and the deep-blue water of Aunt Lydia’s Cove appears like a watercolor painting come-to-life.

capecodandtheislandsmag.com

Take advantage of CBI’s Friday night cocktail-making classes led by a master mixologist. Then pop into the Sacred Cod to sample a dish off their sophisticated tavern menu. If you’re up for a maritime adventure, beginning in April CBI offers chartered boating experiences on its private fleet, including whalewatching and shark-sighting expeditions (make your reservations early, as these sell out).

SACRED COD

WHERE THE SIDEWALK ENDS

SATURDAY 9 a.m.

For a quick, delicious breakfast, head to JoMama’s on Main Street.

Try one of their signature New York-style bagel breakfast sandwiches or order a refreshing fruit smoothie. This is also a great place to fuel up with a cup of organic coffee, espresso, or tea.

MARIA ALLEN

COURTESY OF CHATHAM BARS INN

6 p.m.

10 a.m.

Stroll along Main Street and discover a mix of local boutiques and luxury brands tucked within antique shingle-style buildings. One of the coziest spots is Where the Sidewalk Ends, an independent bookshop that occupies a rustic two-story barn. Sunlight pours through the windows and on the chilliest of days they crank up the fireplace. The stacks are filled with a mix of bestsellers and hard-to-find gems— from biographies and cookbooks to young adult titles and early readers. There’s also an adjacent children’s annex with games, puzzles, picture books, and more.

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Travel C H AT H A M If you’re looking for stylish, easy-to-wear women’s and men’s clothing, head down the street to Chatham Clothing Bar, and if you have children to buy for, be sure to pick up one of the popular shark-bite printed T-shirts at Chatham T Kids. Not far away, Fisherman’s Daughter sells eco-conscious apparel and accessories that are designed on Cape Cod. Unique finds include fingerless gloves, cozy wrap scarves and headbands.

No trip to Chatham would be complete without stopping

by Chatham Candy Manor for a sweet treat. New owners Robbie Carroll and Paige Piper are continuing the legacy of this local landmark, which has been operating for more than 60 years. In the spring, the shop displays are dominated by pastel-colored boxes of truffles and rich, foil-covered cream eggs (the Oreo variety is so popular that it’s now offered year-round). Homemade fudge is a specialty. Ask one of the friendly staff members to let you sample the Fantasy Sea Salt Fudge. This smooth, chocolatey delight is sprinkled with local sea salt from 1830 Sea Salt Company and the flavor is decadent.

1 p.m.

For lunch, head across town to Mom & Pops Burgers.

This casual, counter-service restaurant takes its burgers very seriously (the beef is butchered, ground, and pattied in-house daily). Owners Pelinda and Thomas Deegan run a friendly operation and keep their restaurant open year-round, which has earned them a loyal following. A wall-sized chalkboard menu features a mix of East and West Coast-inspired specialties.

Favorites include the California Burger, which is topped with pepper jack cheese, bacon, lettuce, avocado, and Mom’s Sauce (a creamy spread with a kick of fresh lime), all-beef hot dogs, and unexpected surprises like a Filipino pork burger that’s covered with papaya slaw and chili-garlic mayo. Wash it all down with a craft beer, old-fashioned frappe, or a refreshing Snowy Owl coldbrew coffee.

MOM & POPS BURGERS

MARIA ALLEN

FISHERMAN’S DAUGHTER

MARIA ALLEN

2 p.m.

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Fine artists from across the United States flock to Chatham each year to capture the town’s breathtaking seascapes on canvas. One of the best places in town to experience high-quality local art (or test your own talents) is at the Creative Arts Center. A community resource for 50 years, the center features a gallery as well as artist workspaces where painting, pottery, and jewelry-making classes are held year-round. The arts center also hosts exclusive workshops with well-known artists, classes for kids, and public exhibitions.

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THE CHATHAM SQUIRE

6 p.m.

Home to a small-but-mighty fishing community, Chatham is a fabulous place to enjoy a seafood dinner. Visit The Impudent Oyster and order the clams casino, which consists of Chatham littleneck clams broiled on the half shell with butter, sweet peppers, garlic, and bacon. Afterward, go across the street to The Chatham Squire for a cocktail and live music. You’re likely to meet one or two members of the local fishing fleet while you’re there.

Travel Resources 1830 SEA SALT COMPANY 108 Meetinghouse Rd., Chatham 1830seasalt.com CHATHAM BARS INN 297 Shore Rd., Chatham chathambarsinn.com CHATHAM CANDY MANOR 484 Main St., Chatham candymanor.com CHATHAM CLOTHING BAR 534 Main St., Chatham chathamtco.com

SUNDAY 9 a.m.

CHATHAM T KIDS 583 Main St., Chatham chathamtco.com CREATIVE ARTS CENTER 154 Crowell Rd., Chatham capecodcreativearts.org CHATHAM BARS INN

Enjoy a relaxing morning and an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet at Chatham Bars Inn’s whitetablecloth restaurant, Stars.

FISHERMAN’S DAUGHTER 402 Main St., Chatham fishermansdaughtermarket.com JOMAMA’S 400 Main St., Chatham jomamascapecod.com MOM & POPS BURGERS 1603 Main St., Chatham momandpopschatham.com

MARIA ALLEN

STARS

11 a.m.

MONOMOY NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE

Head down Shore Road and make a stop at the Lighthouse Beach overlook (30-minute parking limit). Here you can snap a selfie in front of Chatham Lighthouse and the Coast Guard Station and gaze out at the shifting sandbars and churning seas. If you’re feeling ambitious and the weather is favorable, continue your drive down to Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge and take a nature hike. With nearly 3,000 acres of sand dunes, ponds, and marshlands, this is a popular destination for bird watching and it’s a great place to experience a more untamed side of Chatham. Breathe in the salty air and pause to appreciate the serenity and stillness—summer will be here before you know it.

SACRED COD 297 Shore Rd., Chatham chathambarsinn.com STARS 297 Shore Rd., Chatham chathambarsinn.com THE CHATHAM SQUIRE 487 Main St., Chatham thesquire.com THE IMPUDENT OYSTER 15 Chatham Bars Ave., Chatham theimpudentoyster.com WHERE THE SIDEWALK ENDS 432 Main St., Chatham booksonthecape.com

SPRING 2020 » 21

Profiles S A R A H S WA I N

Sarah Swain taught herself to play guitar and write songs when she was a teenager.

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THE MANY TALENTS OF CAPE COD MUSICIAN SARAH SWAIN

BY LISA CAVANAUGH » PHOTOGRAPHS BY JULIA CUMES

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Profile S A R A H S WA I N

Swain with one of her family’s goats.

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arah Swain is full of spunk and energy when she leaps joyfully in the air during one of the rousing rockabilly tunes her band Sarah Swain & the Oh Boys plays at packed venues across Cape Cod. However, the talented guitarist and singer displays a more tranquil rootedness at home in the rustic lakeside house in Harwich, which she shares with her husband, three children, three dogs, and two goats.

Perhaps this is because she truly feels connected to Cape Cod in a multitude of meaningful ways. Sitting comfortably near her piano and a wall of vintage guitars, with a view of trees and water behind her, Swain explains that she wasn’t always sure how she would fit in here, having grown up off-Cape. “For the first few years here on the Cape, I was basically known as ‘Swainer’s wife,’” she says, breaking into an infectious laugh. “I was fine with that. It took me a while to settle in and feel apart of this community.” She focused on her home life with her husband Steve, a local steel sculptor, owner of Frying Pan Galleries, and an architectural designer, whose family has been on the Cape for decades.

Then her mother was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. “I spent a lot of time going back and forth to Marblehead taking care of my mom,” says Swain. “After she passed, I kind of hibernated for a while and didn’t connect with much.”

For the self-taught musician and songwriter, it was music that began to pull her into a new Cape Cod life. “My mom bought me a guitar when I was fifteen and I would watch other players and try to remember what their hands were doing,” says Swain. “The chef at a restaurant where I worked was a guitarist, and he would draw out chords for me on napkins so I could practice.”

While Swain grew up in Marblehead, part of her formative youth was also spent in Pennsylvania and West Virginia, which subliminally

My mom bought me a guitar when I was fifteen and I would watch other players and try to remember what their hands were doing. The chef at a restaurant where I worked was a guitarist, and he would draw out chords for me on napkins so I could practice.

— Sarah Swain

influenced her sound. “Even though I considered myself a punk rock kind of girl, when I started writing music what came out had a little country twang,” she says. “I fought that for a long time, but really started to embrace it once I was here on the Cape and fell in love with the simplicity, soul, and joy of rockabilly.”

The first local group she joined was a rootsy, rock-and-roll band called the Greenheads, with whom she still occasionally performs. “We play opening night at the Beachcomber in Wellfleet every year, which is seriously the most fun you could ever have.” Swain then joined a rockabilly band called Randy & the Oak Trees which eventually morphed (with some of the original members) into Sarah Swain & the Oh Boys, which performs Swain’s original music. “We’ve been creating, performing, and recording together for over ten years,” she says. “I am so blessed that I get to work so hard and have so much fun with such wonderful players and people.”

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Profile S A R A H S WA I N

Swain talks animatedly about the music scene on Cape Cod, which she has found to be incredibly supportive. “The talent we have here, the visionary songwriting—it really is unbelievable,” she says. “It’s really cool to be part of that and the more we support each other the better, especially female musicians.”

To that end, Swain launched Cape Cod Women’s Music Festival in 2012. “Women musicians are too often pitted against each other, or it feels like a token-girl thing, and I dreamed for a long time about a music festival dedicated to celebrating and honoring female musicians,” she says. “That rattled around in my brain and eventually the rattle got louder.”

Swain had never done more than perform in benefit festivals, but once she took the first step toward creating the festival, she found dozens of people willing to help her bring the idea to life. “The first festival was terrifying. I had never engaged with the community in that way, but so many musicians, local people, and businesses took a chance on it and the whole event was pure magic.”

The first year of the festival Meghan Trainor, who was still at Nauset Regional High School at the time but already a musical force, was the opening act. She was joined by a lineup of local female musicians who played to a sold out crowd at the W.H.A.T theatre in Wellfleet. The festival is now in its eighth year, has moved to the Cape Playhouse in Dennis, and has showcased dozens of local and national female musicians. “The festival was essentially started in memory and honor of my mom,” says Swain.

“Music was what I knew how to do and it was a way to put grief and loss into action.”

Then Swain lost her uncle and grandmother to cancer, and two Cape Cod friends were diagnosed with breast cancer, and she felt she had to do more. “I felt so powerless and I wanted to do something for my friends. I thought, okay, what are people with cancer not getting?”

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Jessie (13), Steve, Sarah, Lucy (15). and Stan (7) hanging out with their three dogs.

MICHAEL & SUZ KARCHMER

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In her search, Swain recognized a gap in local complementary care for people who are battling cancer, which led to the creation of her nonprofit, Cape Wellness Collaborative in 2014. The organization provides free integrative therapies, such as massage and acupuncture, to anyone on Cape Cod and the islands affected by cancer. So far Cape Wellness Collaborative has provided services to 800 locals. Swain has also recently launched Wellness Eats, which provides nutritious meals to people going through cancer treatment and their caregivers.

While engaging with this community through benefits and events (the nonprofit hosts the annual Dancing with the Docs gala), Swain had genetic testing done at Cape Cod Healthcare. The results signaled that she had a gene that could put her at risk for cancer, so she underwent a prophylactic double mastectomy and oophorectomy. “My mom died in her early 50s. I’m in my midforties. I looked at my three kids and thought, how could I not be there for them?” she asks.

On cue, Swain’s eldest, Lucy (15), arrives home from school, and prepares a quick snack in the open kitchen. Siblings Jessie (13), and Stan (7) are expected soon, and will add to the happy busyness that is a typical day at the Swain house.

Sarah finds time to relax with family members (including the fourlegged ones) in between performing with her band and leading the Cape Wellness Collective.

“You know, its funny. People ask me about ‘making it’ in music all the time.” Swain says, looking up to smile as her dogs greet Steve, who has come in from his art workshop, housed in their barn. He gives her a quick, cheerful hello before heading off toward the backyard. “I get to write and perform music with a fantastic band, work at Cape Wellness Collaborative with the most incredible people and have my family, all right here on this beautiful sandbar.” She pauses, spreads her arms out and grins. “So, I’ve already made it.”

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Lifestyle W O O D E N B OAT B U I L D E R S

A VISIT TO GANNON & BENJAMIN MARINE RAILWAY ON MARTHA’S VINEYARD

BY KELLY CHASE » PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATT COSBY

Inside Gannon & Benjamin Marine Railway on Martha’s Vineyard, it feels like a construction site has found its way into an old storied barn. Focused workers hammer and sand away, leaving trails and the scent of sawdust in their wakes as they rebuild an old yawl. The vessel, named Lark, was originally built for the Forbes family in the early twentieth century. Now, its current owner, John Kerry, has employed the crew at Gannon & Benjamin to restore it to its original glory.

It seems that every boat that finds its way onto the rails at Gannon & Benjamin arrives with a history. Many of the ships have sailed on distant seas, others have called Vineyard Haven Harbor home, and all are made of wood, and wood alone. “We drew that line in the very beginning,” says Ross Gannon, one of the founders. “Our harbor was full of wooden boats back then and it’s even more full now.”

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Ross Gannon, boat builder and cofounder of Gannon & Benjamin SPRING 2020 Âť 29

Lifestyle W O O D E N B OAT B U I L D E R S

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Owners Gannon, Nat Benjamin, and Brad Abbott are wooden-boat craftsmen. Using plank-on-frame construction, their projects range from small dinghies to 65-foot yachts.

Since launching their business 40 years ago, they’ve designed and built close to 70 vessels, and oversee every aspect of wooden-boat construction from design to wood selection, construction, rigging, and outfitting.

Gannon and Benjamin were the original founders (Abbott joined their ranks in 2010), and the boatyard was initially a facility where wooden-boat owners could bring their vessels to work on, and if they required expertise, they could turn to Gannon or Benjamin. “When we started, we didn’t know if it would be successful enough,” says Benjamin. “We thought we’d have to do something else in the winter, but it’s never slowed down.”

Currently, they employ about 16 workers yearround, but staffing can vary based on projects.

Many craftsmen and women find their way to the boatyard for the promise of work, but many stay after discovering a knack and a passion.

“You have to want to do this work, and if you have that drive, then it can be very rewarding,” says Abbott. “I mean, look around, we’re all standing here right now, and it’s starting to snow, yet here we are.”

Oftentimes, one vessel, especially one as big as Lark, requires the skills of many. Gannon & Benjamin works with local specialty craftsmen, including shipwrights, riggers, cabinetmakers, painters, mechanics, patternmakers, metal and foundry workers, sail makers, and more. With their varied skill sets, Gannon, Benjamin, and Abbott oversee every step of the process.

Nonetheless, in the very beginning, it was a two-man operation, and Gannon or Benjamin worked side by side and learned as they went along. “Neither of us went to boat-building school,” says Gannon. “The first boats we built were an experiment in learning. We picked up books when we needed to, and there were older men who we could tap if we needed information, but really by repairing boats, you learn a lot about building them.”

Today, New England is home to woodenboat building schools, and many interns from around the world study at Gannon & Benjamin each year. “Learning is going on right now,” says Abbott, who points out a crew member who is visiting from Denmark. “Our crew is always made up of tiers of experience. We have backbone crew who have a lot of experience, but we’ve always got people who are interested in working on boats, interested in learning about how to work on boats, or interested in working—and if you can combine those three things, then that’s pretty good,” says Abbott.

“There’s a lot of labor involved, but what is learned here, you can take wherever you go.”

Boat building is a skillset that can be taught— that’s evident from the scene inside Gannon and Benjamin. However, according to Gannon, the best part—the part that keeps one hammering and sanding, even on the coldest, least sailable days of the year—is the pursuit of mastery, and that is a lifelong commitment.

“The more of this you do, the more excited you get about the craft that’s involved. Any boat builder will tell you that—you are just trying to get better and better and better. You’re trying to do your utmost to make these things long-lasting. To me, that’s always been the motivation,” says Gannon.

For more information on Gannon & Benjamin, and to learn about their public launches, visit their website at gannonandbenjamin.com. Gannon & Benjamin Marine Railway, 30 Beach Road, Vineyard Haven. 508.693.4658.

SPRING 2020 » 35

A DAY I N T H E L I F E

BY LISA CAVANAUGH

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DAMIEN TUPINIER

Cape Cod honey bees return to the hive.

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A DAY I N T H E L I F E

n an early spring day in Sandwich, a determined worker bee is making her way back to a hive, her “pollen basket” laden with light yellow powder, likely gathered from nearby dandelions, crocuses, apple trees, or skunk cabbage.

“Sometimes when a bee comes in, she has so much pollen it looks like she won’t make the stoop,” says longtime beekeeper Claire Desilets. “As the season progresses and different plants bloom, we can see quite a palette of color and to see it spread across a frame is quite something. It can be creamy white, red, or purple during the season.”

A honey bee lands on a spring blossom.

With 28 hives spread throughout Sandwich, Desilets rarely has a day when she is not interacting with honeybees. “I have ten hives in my backyard,” she says, “and within a mile or so of my house, there are two cranberry bogs where I keep hives.

I maintain the hives at Green Briar Nature Center, and I have five hives at Crow Farm.” As the secretary for the Barnstable County Beekeepers Association (BCBA), Desilets also leads the group of volunteer members who tend to the association’s hives located at Cape Cod Organic Farm in Barnstable. “It’s my passion, I love to do it,” she says. “Bees keep me busy.”

Desilets is a retired pharmacist who first embraced beekeeping as a teenager at her local 4H club and has never looked back. “When my brother bought a cranberry bog in the Sandwich area in the late sixties, there was no one to take care of the bees for his hives, so I volunteered.”

Many Cape Cod beekeepers begin their hobby with an eye for producing backyard honey, but soon become fascinated with the complex network they observe within a bee colony.

For Hyannis backyard beekeeper, Liz Fallon, caring for bees is both rewarding and exciting. “The first time I harvested honey was amazing,” says Fallon. “Even though the bees are doing the actual work—tending to the hive and caring for thousands of little creatures is truly a labor of love and I enjoy every moment of it.”

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Claire Desilets uses a hive tool to carefully inspect a colony of bees for signs of healthy hive activity.

As the season progresses and different plants bloom, bees collect quite a palette of pollen colors.

Wearing a protective hood, gloves and long sleeves, Desilets lifts a frame out of one of her hives.

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On a typical spring day, Desilets will pick one of her apiaries and work its hives in the morning. “Ideally beekeepers should work each hive every ten days or so,” she says. “Lots of things can happen in your hive over the course of a week—queens can be underlaying, brood diseases can erupt, bees can become overcrowded and start getting ready to swarm—so you want to be on top of what is going on.”

Between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., bees are busy out looking for nectar, so it is the optimum time to open the hive and inspect the frames. Garbed in long sleeves and a netted veil, Desilets approaches her hives, watching for activity at the entrance. “The first thing to observe is what is going on outside. It’s fun to see them doing their thing.”

While some beekeepers will use smoke to calm the bees’ activity, especially on cloudy days when the bees stay close, Desilets rarely does. “I like to mist them with sugar syrup instead,” she says. “They are so busy cleaning each other off, they’re not paying attention to me.”

Desilets will then carefully open the covers of each hive. “I’m always looking to see what they are up to, if they are just humming back and forth happily, or if they all have an attitude with their tushes sticking up.” Starting with the outermost frame, she carefully pops each out with a hive tool.

Barnstable County Beekeepers Association hives at Cape Cod Organic Farm

PHOTOS BY MARCY FORD

SPRING 2020 » 39

A DAY I N T H E L I F E

“Ideally beekeepers should work each hive every ten days or so,” says Desilets.

Each time she opens a hive, Desilets is looking for signs of healthy hive activity; eggs, larvae, and pupae are all indications of a good laying queen. Frame by frame, she methodically inspects the brood pattern. “You also want to see stored pollen, nectar, and capped honey.

There has to be honey or nectar for the bees to eat.”

Early in the season, especially if it has been a tough winter, Desilets might augment the bees’ food stores. “If they don’t have enough, I go back into the kitchen and mix up a simple sugar syrup for them. They have to get their carbs, so they have the energy to fly to find more nectar and pollen.”

MARCY FORD

Desilets, like all Cape Cod beekeepers, will also keep a keen eye out for signs of the dreaded Varroa mite, which has decimated local bee populations. If she sees evidence of mites, or if she needs assistance, she gets in touch with the state bee inspector. The mites have been known to take down entire hives, and local beekeepers have responded by paying more attention to their hives and also breeding stronger, more resilient bees.

MARCY FORD

Pollen is an indispensible and nutritious part of the honey bee diet.

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Novice beekeepers have Desilets herself to turn to for advice and recommendations. As one of the longest-standing members of the BCBA and a teacher at the BCBA’s annual “bee school” that runs from January to March, Desilets has been a mentor to generations of new beekeepers. “Each year about forty people enroll in bee school, and I have ten or twelve mentees that I help throughout the season,” she says.

Many of Desilets’s students are drawn to beekeeping because they are looking for a deeper connection with nature, and others feel compelled to do their part to help the local honeybee population. However, for those who are unable to keep hives but want to be involved, Desilets suggests growing more pollinating plants. “Those of us with hives on the cranberry bogs and apple farms are making a difference in the fruit yield, and

JASON LEUNG

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Bees are busiest between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., when they are out looking for nectar.

Healthy hive activity indicates a good laying queen bee.

in turn it will make a difference if people have a vegetable garden and fruit trees in their backyards.”

One of Desilets’s former students is Eastham-based landscape architect Laura Kelley, who is also a big proponent of growing pollinator plants. “Even if you only have containers on your patio—why not grow something in them to attract bees?” Good pollinating plants include lupine, rose coreopsis, butterfly weed, goldenrod, and New England aster. Kelley shares a fascination for honeybees with Desilets, and although she is not tending to any hives this season, she still tends to pollinator plants in her backyard. “I sit on my porch and get so much value from watching bees,” says Kelley. “They say a beehive is the best communication system on the planet.”

MARCY FORD

That communication system is intricate, but a hive’s success is largely based on having a strong and healthy queen. To help hives along, Desilets works with Lynn Heslinga, the BCBA’s treasurer, to breed and raise queens. The goal is to breed hardy northern queens who can make it through Cape Cod winters.

Currently, they raise queens by following a very advanced and involved process using grafted cells, and they’ve had great success. “When a queen emerges from our little cages, it is the biggest thrill, just the coolest thing.” says Desilets.

Desilets somehow finds time to fix and replenish all her hive equipment, maintain the BCBA membership rolls, extract and make cream honey from her hives, and sell comb honey at a couple of select farm stands. She also hosts her children and grandchildren who visit her often. “One of my daughters is a beekeeper too, but I like to work my hives alone,” she says. “If it’s a good day, then I want to be outside with my bees. I find I’m still learning about them after all these years.”

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Life + Style A R T G A L L E R Y T R A I L

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BY LISA CAVANAUGH

From Sandwich to Provincetown, Cape Cod is an ideal place to find artistry and inspiration. Long a favorite locale for painters and photographers, Cape Cod has the light, the vistas, and the welcoming environment for creative individuals. This art-friendly atmosphere is reflected in the many dozens of galleries.

This Art Gallery trail might introduce you to some new and innovative galleries or reconnect you with venerable institutions that have been representing area artists for decades.

Inside the Nines Gallery in Harwich Port

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Life + Style A R T G A L L E R Y T R A I L

SANDWICH MCDERMOTT GLASS STUDIO 272 Cotuit Road, Sandwich mcdermottglass.com David McDermott and his wife Yukimi Matsumoto first opened their backyard glass-blowing studio in 2002, merging McDermott’s skills in traditional Scottish glassblowing and Matsumoto’s impeccable design aesthetic to create exquisite one-of-a-kind pieces of art, which are on display and available to buy at the gallery in the front of the property at 272 Cotuit Road. The gallery is open every day except Monday from 10 a.m. until 5 p.m.

With two additional glass artists, Isabel Green and Peter Waechter, now part of the team, the studio itself is also open Wednesdays through Fridays for the public to view their precise and fascinating glass-blowing techniques.

“I’ve had the studio for 18 years,” says McDermott. “And I still love what I do. It is a pretty cool process, so to see people experience viewing it for the first time is really exciting for me as well.”

“Three Sisters” by William Allen

DENNIS MILLER WHITE FINE ARTS 708 Route 134, South Dennis millerwhitefinearts.com Founded and directed by Susan Reid Danton, this gallery is located just off Route 6 in Dennis. “Miller White Fine Arts is a destination gem in the heart of Cape Cod,” says Danton. “We offer an outstanding array of contemporary abstract and figurative artworks by artists of local, national, and international renown in an impeccable exhibition space.”

The gallery, which is open year-round by appointment and regularly May through October, got its name from Danton’s great aunt, Dorothy Canning Miller, who was the first curator of the collections at the Museum of Modern Art in New York City, and Danton’s mother Edith Canning White.

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Committed to both artists and collectors, Miller White is proud to present compelling exhibitions throughout the season. Upcoming shows include “New Works from the Roster,” which kicks off May 1st and is Miller White’s inaugural show of 2020. The show will feature a collection of new works in the abstract, figurative and landscape traditions from the studios of Miller White’s exclusive roster and, opening June 5th, “William Allen, Artist Emeritus: A Gifted Man Lays Down His Brush,” a retrospective exhibition of large paintings by William Allen of Brockton, Boston and Falmouth, including his final masterpieces.

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“Beach House” by Lauren DiFerdinando

HARWICH PORT THE NINES GALLERY 562 Main St., Harwich Port theninesartgallery.com

If you are looking for evocative representations of the sea and coastalinspired landscapes, dip down to Route 28 in Harwich Port to visit the Nines Art Gallery.

This independent artist-owned studio and gallery features large original oil paintings of glass water and serene abstracts landscapes by Lauren DiFerdinando and limited edition off-shore ocean photography by Luther Bates.

The now husband-and-wife team first collaborated when DiFerdinando commissioned Bates, a woodworker and commercial fisherman, to create custom

frames for her paintings to hang in a previous gallery. Once DiFerdinando went out on Bates’ fishing boat, they developed the idea to capture ocean images for her to paint, which in turn led to Bates’ own emergence as a fine art photographer, and the launch of the Nines.

On display this spring will be new “AtSea” photographs from Bates, as well as additions to DiFerdinando’s “Water” and “Glass” series of paintings. DiFerdinando will also be presenting some extra large scale paintings in the summer.

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Life + Style A R T G A L L E R Y T R A I L

WELLFLEET THE FRYING PAN GALLERY 250 Commercial St., Wellfleet fryingpangallery.com When architectural designer and steel sculptor Steve Swain first came upon Wellfleet harbor’s last intact oyster shack, he knew he had a gem on his hands. The structure on Commercial Street was from the early 1900s and assembled from wooden pieces that had washed ashore from nearby Billingsgate Island.

“The Sea Spray” by Paul Schulenburg

ORLEANS ADDISON ART GALLERY 43 South Orleans Road, Orleans addisonart.com The internationally acclaimed Addison Art Gallery has been bringing artists, art lovers, and collectors together for over two decades. Known for presenting emerging as well as master artists from the United States and abroad, the Addison Art Gallery is housed in a classic half-Cape finished with boards and beams originally found in Boston’s Faneuil Hall.

The timing was just right as Swain had just completed a renovation of the old Spit and Chatter Club oyster shack, which was housed within the neighboring restaurant the Pearl, so he knew what he had to do. Using his skills, he restored the building, and once finished, he decided to launch his own venture, the Frying Pan Gallery in 2008.

Swain, who had been showing his art in other locations, was excited not only to open his own gallery business, but also was thrilled to be able to preserve a piece of the town’s history.

The Frying Pan Gallery is home to Swain’s own steel sculptures of sailfish, stripers, tuna, bait-fish, and others creatures of the sea and shore, and it also features hip and contemporary paintings, pottery, woodwork, etchings, jewelry, and furniture by a variety of Cape Cod artists and artisans. Last year, Swain opened a second, year-round location in Orleans, on Route 6A, where the gallery shares a space with Vec Surfboards.

This year presents an intriguing season of shows, the publication of Paul Schulenburg’s impressive book, and an array of celebrations. Events and new works available at addisonart.com.

Highly regarded for both personal service and community support, the Addison Art Gallery is praised for discovering and sharing information about Edward Hopper’s time on Cape Cod and for representing contemporary artists following in his footsteps. Addison is also the creator of the special exhibitions including “Before the Masterpieces,” “Cape Lore,” “Outermost Inspirations,” and “In Thoreau’s Views.”

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“Vortex” by Steve Swain

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PROVINCETOWN RICE POLAK GALLERY 430 Commercial St., Provincetown ricepolakgallery.com “I love what I’m doing,” says Marla Rice, owner of Rice Polak Gallery in Provincetown. “I opened my present location in 1992, and I am more passionate than ever about the work we are doing there.” Rice originally had a partner, Richard Polak who retired from the business ten years ago, and she has been the sole proprietor ever since.

Fortunate to enjoy an unusually large footprint for the oftencramped town at the end of Cape Cod, Rice Polak Gallery utilizes two separate floors to showcase a diverse collection of talent and mediums. “With such a large space, I am able to have installation pieces and sculpture on display,” says Rice.

“Eliza” by Jennifer Goldfinger

Featuring mostly mid-career or emerging artists from around the country (with the occasional international work), Rice says her criteria for choosing who to exhibit is not hindered by a specific theme or medium. “I look for excellence and that the artist’s work doesn’t compete with someone else we are showing at the time.”

The gallery opens the first Saturday in May each year, with a group show where each of her represented artists has a whole wall for their work. From July until Labor Day, Rice switches to twoweek-long feature shows of just four artists, which also include opening receptions and gallery talks. Some of the artists who will be highlighted in feature shows this year are Nick Patten, Julie Levesque, Robin Winfield, Jennifer Goldfinger, Michelle Harvey, Joshua Meyer, Sean Thomas, and Victor Mirabelli.

NANTUCKET

“In Tandem” by Duncan McClellan

THE GALLERY AT FOUR INDIA 4 India St., Nantucket thegallerynantucket.com

Established in 1989, the Gallery at Four India Street is one of Nantucket’s oldest galleries. Owner and director Kathleen Knight says that The Gallery at Four India represents sixty-five artists from across the United States and Europe. “We are a collection of fine contemporary art glass, traditional and abstract paintings, bronze and wood sculptures, photography and sailor valentines,” says Knight.

Locally owned and operated, the gallery is open year-round and their

2020 calendar will include a show on “Abstract Expressions” featuring artists Judith Brust, Joanna Kane, and Fara Thomas, an exhibit of a fine contemporary art glass by twenty-nine renowned artists, and an exhibition of photography by Sanschez Saunders.

The Gallery at Four India also offers fine art installations, resale of private and corporate art collections, art rentals for private or public spaces, workshops for emerging artists, and constructive oneon-one critiques for artists.

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Life+ Style G O L F I N G

Farm Neck Golf Club on Martha’s Vineyard

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A ROUND AND A ROUND:

WAYNE SMITH

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A CAPE AND ISLANDS GOLF VACATION

BY BILL HIGGINS

olf buddy trips are musts on bucket lists for many lovers of the small ball. Dreams of a getaway junket to Pebble Beach on California’s Monterey Coast or a vacation to the roots of the game in the British Isles would quench the thirst of anyone who lives to grip it and rip it. However, you need not travel far for terrific places to tee it up. From the bridges of the Upper Cape to the National Seashore on the Outer Cape, Cape Cod and the islands is a worthy golfing destination.

There are nearly three dozen public courses offering a variety of challenges. The area is rich in history, from one of the nation’s oldest courses to some of the most exclusive private clubs. President John F. Kennedy called Hyannis Port home. Presidents Bill Clinton and Barack Obama played on Martha’s Vineyard during summer vacations.

As a public service to visitors and year-rounders alike, we’re offering a vacation week sampler: Seven courses in seven days, highlighting locations across the Cape and islands. A word of advice: Make tee times in advance and check out the courses online.

So let’s play with this thought from the great golf ambassador Arnold Palmer: “What other people may find in poetry or art museums, I find in the flight of a good drive.”

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GEORGE PEET

Life+ Style G O L F I N G

We begin at Highland Links in North Truro, a nine-hole gem perched along wind-swept bluffs of the Atlantic Ocean with Cape Cod Light serving as an iconic backdrop. The historic course dates back to 1892, making it one of the oldest in the country.

Highland’s raw, natural beauty is reminiscent of the game invented in Scotland in the 15th century. As you stroll through the moorland and Rosa rugosa you can almost hear the wailing of bagpipes. Wind is always a factor here and the vagaries of links golf often yield odd bounces and lies.

SUNDAY HIGHLAND LINKS 10 HIGHLAND LIGHT ROAD, NORTH TRURO HIGHLANDLINKSCAPECOD.COM

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A couple of favorite holes: Number two is a par-5 from an elevated tee into a beach canyon. The fairway is guarded by the Jenny Lind Tower, a stone castle turret named for the 19th-century Swedish opera star. The ninth hole is a wonderfully short par-3 requiring a precise iron to a diabolical two-tiered green.

No golfer worth his soul should leave the Cape without playing Highland Links. And the good news is the course is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore and will forever remain protected land.

GEORGE PEET

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MONDAY Duly inspired and with a hint of salt spray still in the air, our next stop is Cranberry Valley in Harwich. The course was ravaged by a tornado in July 2019 and nearly 200 trees came down, but the character of layout was not impacted.

This is a pleasant, walkable course and the finishing holes are memorable. The 17th is a long par-3—225 yards from the tips.

Take enough club to carry the false front.

The 18th hole is a doozy—it measures 500-plus yards and is a horseshoe-shaped, double-dogleg par-5. Tall trees that were spared by the twister remain and guard the approach to the green.

CRANBERRY VALLEY 183 OAK STREET, HARWICH CRANBERRYVALLEY.GOLF

TUESDAY

Among the best holes are the ninth, which is 169 yards over water to a kidney-shaped green, and the 18th—184 yards over water from an elevated tee to a bowl-shaped green.

BLUE ROCK GOLF COURSE 48 TODD ROAD, SOUTH YARMOUTH BLUEROCKGOLFCOURSE.COM

BLUE ROCK GOLF COURSE

Today we’re at Blue Rock Golf Course in South Yarmouth, which has earned national acclaim as one of the best par-3 courses in the country. The holes range from 100 to 255 yards, making it attractive for youngsters and a nice change of pace for experienced players. However, 18 par-3s are anything but a pitch-and-putt breather. Blue Rock demands accurate iron play and a confident putting stroke.

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Life+ Style G O L F I N G

WEDNESDAY We’re island hopping, setting sail for Oak Bluffs, Martha’s Vineyard and the Farm Neck Golf Club. Actually, it’s a ferry ride so have a second cup of coffee and enjoy the cruise. Farm Neck has been ranked among the best public courses in the United States and the recognition is deserved.

You’ll also chuckle at a unique local rule: “Any ball moved or stolen by seagulls should be moved back or played at the original lie.” When you get to the fourth hole, you’ll see why it has been called the “Pebble Beach of the East.” The par-3 plays from an elevated tee to a narrow green set against a backdrop of Sengekontacket Pond.

FARM NECK GOLF CLUB

WAYNE SMITH

1 FARM NECK WAY, OAK BLUFFS FARMNECK.NET

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LARRY LAMBRECHT

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THURSDAY Twice is nice and the second island on our itinerary is Nantucket’s Miacomet Golf Course. All you need to know about the quality of this track is the U.S. Golf Association awarded it to cohost the 2021 national midamateur championship.

Miacomet was expanded to 18 holes in 2003 and renovated in 2008 to create a links-style experience of wispy fescue and the stunning views you’d expect from a course 30 miles into the Atlantic. There’s a laid-back atmosphere, but don’t relax too much—your game will be tested and you’ll finish on 18 wanting more.

MIACOMET GOLF COURSE 12 WEST MIACOMET ROAD, NANTUCKET MIACOMETGOLF.COM

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CAPE CLUB IN EAST FALMOUTH

Life+ Style G O L F I N G

FRIDAY

Back on the mainland, it’s on to the Cape Club in East Falmouth. The former Ballymeade course was quirky, to be kind, but the old design has been completely transformed into a terrific layout. White-sand bunkers similar to Augusta National (think Masters) are among many aesthetic touches. Wider, more receptive fairways and multitiered putting surfaces also make the Cape Club more enjoyable.

The par-3 11th from an elevated tee to a green surrounded by bunkers is the signature hole. No. 18 is a par-5 that— with a good drive—might tempt you to get home in two, but beware the pond fronting the green.

CAPE CLUB IN EAST FALMOUTH 125 FALMOUTH WOODS ROAD, EAST FALMOUTH CAPECLUBRESORT.COM

OLDE BARNSTABLE FAIRGROUNDS 1460 MA-149, MARSTONS MILLS BARNSTABLE.GOLF

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SATURDAY

SATURDAY

OLDE BARNSTABLE FAIRGROUNDS

FRIDAY

We finish our tour at Olde Barnstable Fairgrounds in Marstons Mills. “Old Barny” is home to the Cape Cod Open and gets its name from the former site of the Barnstable County Fair.

Arrive early and get loose. The first hole is a challenging par-5 with trouble left all the way to the green. The closing 18th hole is another par-5. A good tee shot will leave you with an interesting decision. A tall holly tree in the middle of the fairway gives you an option to go left, right or over, leaving a short approach to an elevated green.

So this is a taste of golfing Cape Cod and the islands. Whether you’re an accomplished player or a beginner, there is something for everyone. And remember, it’s called playing golf, not working golf.

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The lost links of Cedar Bank

President John F. Kennedy signed a bill in 1961 authorizing the establishment of the Cape Cod National Seashore. The park encompasses nearly 44,000 acres spread over six towns from Chatham to Provincetown.

Amid the vast expanse of ponds, woods, coastal pine barrens, and Atlantic Ocean beaches are faint traces of Cedar Bank Links in Eastham.

The course, near Nauset Marsh and Salt Pond, was created by Quincy Adams Shaw in the 1920s and described by a Boston newspaper as “one of the finest natural layouts in the world.”

Shaw was a Boston Brahman whose fortune came from Michigan copper mines. The Harvard graduate suffered a nervous breakdown in his 40s and after a long confinement, his doctors recommended he find something to occupy his time. He turned to building a golf course on family land. Using local laborers, a horse and an earth scoop, it took three years and in 1928, Cedar Bank was ready for play.

The Eastham Historical Society has photographs and maps of the 18-hole design. The course played 6,490 yards to a par 70 and was in operation until the late 1940s. Among the best holes were the 140-yard par-3 11th over the pond. Players had to cross the hazard on a small barge with a rope and pulley. The 310-yard

17th around the inlet was memorable and the green reachable, but the challenge was how much of the marsh could be carried with a driver.

Mark McGrath of Harwich, a retired IBM electrical engineer, is an avid hiker and golfer who has done extensive research on the history of Cedar Bank.

Remnants of the course are still visible throughout the park, says McGrath. There is a stone marker noting one of the holes and a green roller once used to smooth putting surfaces. The Shaw family homestead also still stands in Eastham.

EASTHAM HISTORICAL SOCIETY

by Bill Higgins

Cedar Bank was essentially an estate course for family outings and friends. Shaw hosted golfing royalty Bobby Jones and Francis Ouimet for a round. Jones is among the game’s most significant figures and Ouimet is best remembered for his historic win in the U.S. Open at The Country Club in Brookline.

Golf historian Daniel Wexler is the author of “Lost Links: Forgotten treasures of golf’s golden age.” Considering how Cedar Bank would measure up today, Wexler wrote in its original form the course “would surely be among the most talked about in New England, not so much for its overall challenge but rather for its marvelous setting, unique history and conspicuous cache of All-World holes.”

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Home N E W B U I L D

A HOMEOWNER IN OSTERVILLE DESIGNS AND BUILDS A LIGHT-FILLED SPACE ALL HER OWN.

BY KELLY CHASE » PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN CUTRONA

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Home N E W B U I L D

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usan Hodgkinson’s childhood memories of Cape Cod are nothing short of magical. When school let out, she and her cousins would flock to her grandmother’s old house in Centerville, where they’d ride bikes, swim in the ocean, and row boats. “We would row to a beach, which we decided to call “Shell Beach,” and it was privately owned by us, or so we told ourselves,” says Hodgkinson.

When Hodgkinson was looking into buying a summer home for her family, Cape Cod was an easy choice. She landed in Osterville, not far from her grandmother’s house—and “Shell Beach.” “I actually take my daughters [to the beach], and my son when he’s in town,” she says.

On the property, which she purchased in 2001, was a former horse barn that had been transformed into a one-car garage with two bedrooms. However, the structure was deteriorating, and Hodgkinson saw an opportunity to design a space all her own.

She worked with Archi-Tech Associates in Cotuit and E.J. Jaxtimer in Hyannis to design and build a house so her children could take over the main house when they visited.

According to Hodgkinson, windows and natural light were her priority. “I wanted to be able to enjoy light and windows and hear every possible bird and catch the sun as it moved across the day,” says Hodgkinson.

According to Tim Luff, of Archi-Tech Associates, putting the staircase in the rear of the property was critical to achieving substantial natural light because it freed up the three other sides of the house for windows.

Since there was a pre-existing structure, the footprint of the new build was confined to 1,500 square feet. Also, according to Luff, the new cottage couldn’t be overbearing. The result was a compact, Gambrel-style home.

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Home N E W B U I L D

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Resources Builder and Landscaper E.J. Jaxtimer Builder, Inc. 48 Rosary Lane, Hyannis jaxtimer.com Design Archi-Tech Associates, Inc. 6 School St., Cotuit architechassociates.com Cabinetry for kitchen Shaw Woodworking 31 Jonathan Bourne Drive, Pocasset shawwoodworking.com Appliances KAM Appliances 201 Yarmouth Road, Hyannis kamonline.com “She saw this was her house that she would retire in and she wanted something comfortable that would fit a style that she wanted,” says E.J. Jaxtimer project manager Jeffrey Garrand. “But because it was a smaller house, it had to be clever.” Without compromising ceiling heights, Jaxtimer installed a gas fireplace on the first floor, and a ductless mini-split system for heating and cooling.

Built-ins were also critical to maximizing storage. In the kitchen, Jaxtimer built a dusty blue china hutch, and in the living room, window seats are equipped with drawers.

Hodgkinson wanted the flow of the house to be airy and casual, which resulted in an open-concept kitchen, dining, and living area on the first floor. “It’s not a big house by any stretch, but in the kitchen, there’s a little area to sit and do work, and people can sit and have coffee or a meal,” she says. “I love that you can cook and see everybody.”

When Hodgkinson’s children visit, they are there to relax, but their time together often includes a long bike ride, or two. “We have a number of rides that we’ve named that we like to go on,” she says. Even when she is by herself, Hodgkinson prefers to pedal, especially when exploring new pockets of the Cape. “I love just packing a sandwich on a Saturday and seeing where I land,” she says. “Even when you get lost, you’re bound to bump into water and then a beautiful thing reveals itself—another beautiful shoreline.”

KOHLER us.kohler.com Interior design Martha’s Vineyard Interior Design 56 Main St., Vineyard Haven mvidesign.com Countertops Cape Cod Marble & Granite Inc. 38 Rosary Lane, Hyannis capecodmarbleandgranite.com

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Distinctive P R O P E R T I E S

Riverside Bliss in Centerville

T

his Nantucket-style Gambrel has a deep-water dock that juts into the Centerville River. The home, which was renovated in 2000 and in 2015,

has many modern updates throughout. The first floor boasts an open floorplan with a cook’s kitchen that has been finished with custom cabinets, soapstone countertops, and a walk-in pantry. There are a number of opportunities to enjoy the riverside location: the family room opens to an expansive deck, and off of the living/dining area is a screened-in porch. On the second floor, the master has an updated master bath and French doors open to a private deck. Five other bedrooms, three baths, a home office, entertainment room, and a three-car garage make this a truly remarkable coastal property.

707 South Main Street, Centerville — $3,500,000 6 Bedrooms | 3 full baths and 1 half baths | 0.55 acres Bernie Klotz Kinlin Grover, Centerville | 508-737-5684 | bklotz@kinlingrover.com

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SPONSORED CONTENT

Distinctive P R O P E R T I E S

Never Miss a Sunset W

ellfleet touches a lot of souls with its charm and character

and has stunning views of sailboats, sunsets, and changing

as well as its harbor, beaches, and marshlands, yet, even

tides. The open floorplan optimizes ocean views. Other features

with all of its well-loved corners, there are still a number of hidden

include a spacious kitchen with large pantry, three-season porch,

places waiting to be discovered. This coastal five-bedroom is

oversized two car garage, outdoor shower, and decks overlooking

certainly tucked away. The property overlooks Chipman’s Cove

the water.

20 Partridge Way, Wellfleet — $2,800,000 5 Bedrooms | 3 full baths and 1 half baths | 0.91 acres Patricia Lemme Kinlin Grover, Wellfleet | 508-284-2615 plemme@kinlingrover.com SPRING 2020 » 63

Home R E M O D E L

Reimagined

R A N C H

A THOUGHTFUL REFRESH FOR A SENTIMENTAL PROPERTY

BY KELLY CHASE » PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN CUTRONA

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Home R E M O D E L

hange can be invigorating, but there’s great comfort in continuity, and when thinking of what makes a home, it tends to be the latter that prevails. Familiarity was paramount when it came time to renovate a 1960s ranch in Dennis.

The house was originally purchased by the homeowner’s parents, two career teachers who chose to live out their retirement on the Cape. They searched around before deciding that the ranch in Dennis was perfect since it was close to the beach and Route 6A. “My mom thought, we could buy a house on the South Shore, and that would be fine, or we could buy on the Cape and have lots of visitors,” says the homeowner. “That’s exactly what happened. Every chance we could, and every summer, we came to the Cape with our kids.”

The husband’s career took their family of five all over the country. They moved in and out of houses, and oftentimes had to restart in new cities. The moves could be challenging, especially for their three children. One house that didn’t change was the 1960s ranch in Dennis that they pulled up to each summer. There was nothing fancy about the house, but it held memories and meaning: a long hallway that led to the bedrooms was studded with old family photographs, and while small, the family believed its size encouraged bonding.

When her parents passed away, the homeowner bought the ranch from her siblings (one found a house a few streets over). She was looking forward to upholding family traditions, but it was also time for some careful updates. “We wanted to honor my folks and the house and also, bring it into the 21st century with a newer kitchen and an easier flow,” says the homeowner.

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The homeowners worked with Jaqueline Wheeler Interiors, based out of Charlotte, North Carolina, and chose a palette of rich blues, sandy browns, and clean whites.

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Home R E M O D E L

By removing walls and installing a new kitchen island (above and far right), the homeowners created a larger, open-concept space for the family to gather.

The master bathroom (at right) features a double vanity as well as a walk-in shower.

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We basically brought the home down to the studs. Many of the interior walls changed, but most of the exterior walls remained.

— Sue Contonio, project manager at McPhee Associates

She worked with the design-build firm, McPhee Associates, in East Dennis. Initially, there were two priorities, according to the homeowner: open up the space and move the laundry area. The space was cramped—when opening the door from the garage, it was impossible not to knock into the dining room table. “It was convenient for bringing in groceries, but that was really it,” says the homeowner. The laundry was in the living room, which wasn’t conducive to keeping clothes clean and entertaining guests.

Sue Contonio, project manager at McPhee, worked with the homeowners to achieve their vision while being mindful of each change. “They needed more room to grow, but they didn’t want to disrupt the sentimental feeling of the house,” says Contonio.

The project took some ingenuity, but with a small addition and by rearranging walls and lifting ceilings, McPhee was able to open up the living area without significantly altering the original footprint. “We basically brought the home down to the studs,” says Contonio. “Many of the interior walls changed, but most of the exterior walls remained.”

The only addition was to the master suite, which at 13-feet wide and 29-feet long, granted space to reconfigure the master, and added more storage, a vaulted ceiling in the bedroom, and a bath with a double vanity and an oversized shower. In the heart of the home, walls were removed to unite the kitchen with the dining and living rooms.

Other details introduced a more leisurely atmosphere like a 12-foot sliding door off of the living room, which connects to a redesigned outdoor haven with a large deck and patio for barbecuing and lounging—two beloved family pastimes. “We’re beach people, but we’re not lay-on-thebeach-all-day-long people,” says the homeowner. “The bulk of our time here is spent on the back porch doing nothing and drinking coffee.”

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Home R E M O D E L

The master bedroom (top left) was the only addition when renovating the house. The deck and patio (top right) were redesigned to create a comfortable space for lounging, and a retractable awning overhead was installed for sunny days. Each guest bedroom (bottom left) includes subtle maritime details.

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Resources Builder McPhee Associates Inc. 1382 Route 134, East Dennis mcpheeassociatesinc.com Cabinetry for kitchen and bathrooms White Wood Kitchens 160 Route 6A, Sandwich whitewoodkitchen.com Countertops for kitchen, bathroom, and outdoor barbecue Cape Cod Marble & Granite 38 Rosary Lane, Hyannis capecodmarbleandgranite.com Appliances KAM Appliances 201 Yarmouth Road, Hyannis kamonline.com The laundry room was relocated into the main bathroom, which received cosmetic updates, such as a snug-fitting vanity and a door out back granting direct access to the outdoor shower. “When coming home from the beach, we can just toss towels into the wash—it just makes more sense,” says the homeowner. Other tweaks included walls moving a few feet in the guest bedrooms for closet space and new wooden floors unified the home while creating a more natural flow.

Yet, even with so many updates, much has remained the same, to the satisfaction of the homeowners: The family still gathers on the back patio for slow mornings and lively cookouts. They congregate in the kitchen for meals and conversations, and the window over the kitchen sink retained its view of the backyard. “Right over there by that tree is where my brother was married,” says the homeowner. Off the kitchen, the long hallway still leads to two guest bedrooms and the master suite, and its walls, while new, display the familiar family photographs.

“People ask, ‘Why would you pour all that into a little ranch on a culde-sac?’ And we could’ve built something else, somewhere else, but this is the house my kids have known. It’s a very special place,” says the homeowner. A new house would just be a new house, but the ranch on a cul-de-sac in Dennis continues to be home.

Plumbing fixtures Snow & Jones Plumbing & Heating 167 Whites Path, South Yarmouth, www.snowandjones.com Tile materials Cloutier Supply 10 Deerfield Road, Harwich cloutiersupply.com Landscaping McNamara Brothers 492 Depot St., Harwich mcnamarabros.com Interior design Jacqueline Wheeler Interiors jacquelinewheelerinteriors.com

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Food + Drink C L E A N S L AT E E AT E R Y

Charred octopus with chorizo and nero potato purée was just one of 14 courses served at Clean Slate Eatery’s special New Year’s week dinner.

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A SE AT AT THE

CLEAN SLATE EATERY IN WEST DENNIS FOSTERS A COMMUNAL DINING EXPERIENCE.

BY LANNAN M. O’BRIEN » PHOTOGRAPHS BY DERRICK ZELLMANN

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Food + Drink C L E A N S L AT E E AT E R Y CHEF PATRICK MONAHAN

n a quiet winter night, the chefs at a tiny restaurant in West Dennis are busy preparing an elaborate multi-course dinner. The sole dining room—which seats 16, with just a few tables and an L-shaped bar in the center—has a cozy ambience, with chalkboards listing the evening’s courses and light bulbs illuminating the bar and wood ceiling overhead.

As diners begin to arrive, the room instantly fills with chatter as staff and customers greet each other like old friends. One of the chefs pops a bottle of champagne and the cork goes flying to the delights of those seated nearby. Suddenly, the space begins to feel like the chefs’ living room, and the diners seem to be their closest family and friends. But those who have dined here know that there’s nothing unusual about this interaction—it’s just the regular vibe at Clean Slate Eatery.

“If it costs too much, it’s on the menu tonight,” jokes chef Jason Montigel, who co-owns Clean Slate Eatery with chef Patrick Monahan. Tonight, he is introducing a special New Year’s week dinner featuring ingredients from all over the world. The 14 courses include Osetra caviar, yellowfin tuna, charred octopus, and Hokkaido A-5 Wagyu beef, to name a few. On a regular night, Montigel explains, the menu has six courses, plus four signature dishes and one optional course. There is always a vegetarian version, and chef-selected wine pairings are available for an additional cost.

Melt-in-your-mouth Hokkaido Wagyu beef paired with steamed Anson Mills Carolina gold rice, shiitake mushroom marmalade and sweet soy onion purée.

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CHEF JASON MONTIGEL

Montigel and Monahan use primarily local ingredients, and their menu changes every month.

The dishes they create are largely based on the produce, meat, fish, and other foods that are available in the region. They try their best to stay within Massachusetts and especially right on the Cape. “We work with some really great farmers,” says Monahan, highlighting the Chatham Bars Inn Farm and Cape Abilities Farm in Dennis. “We let the products tell us which way to go, and then we apply our techniques.”

The open kitchen at Clean Slate Eatery offers “instant gratification” for the chefs. From his work station, Montigel can watch people enjoying their food and even talk to customers, which allows him and Monahan to gauge the success of a particular menu. But at the same time, they like to keep people guessing with their selection. “I’ll do something random like braised meat in the middle of August, because, well, braised meats are delicious… but we’ll do it with a super light broth [to keep it seasonal],” he says.

Sweet, tender poached lobster tail over lemon chive mascarpone caramelle (a stuffed pasta named for its candy-like shape).

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Food + Drink C L E A N S L AT E E AT E R Y Yellowfin tuna “katsu” with pickled root vegetables and curry bubbles

Foie gras

A cranberry hand pie with triplecream Brie ginger ice cream makes for a sweet ending.

Thanks to the intimate space, any seat provides a clear view of the chefs as they plate each dish at a prep table behind the bar, applying sauces and garnishes with precision. It’s a show of culinary artistry that has no air of pretension and feels as if you’ve been offered a seat at the chefs’ kitchen counter to watch them prepare a meal for themselves. Then, the same chefs deliver each course to your table, stopping by frequently to ask how you enjoyed your meal.

At Clean Slate Eatery, there’s a communal atmosphere that would be difficult to replicate in most settings.

Diners who arrive as strangers often become friends, creating a sort of “restaurant family” when certain regulars gather on the same nights. Monahan gestures to two parties at the bar who are deep in conversation and appear to be close friends, explaining that they just met for the first time. At the other end of the bar are two

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couples who had met months before and happened to arrive again on the same evening. “This place brings people together. That’s the whole thing,” he says.

It was exactly this that Montigel worked to create prior to opening the restaurant in 2016. The venture started as pop-up dinners at local restaurants, which he ran with Monahan’s help until he found a space of his own.

Although Monahan officially became a business partner last year, he was part of Clean Slate long before. While Montigel skirts the subject of their backgrounds, saying they prefer not to “focus on the past,” he is clear about one thing: he and Monahan built this business together.

In the early days, Monahan would fill in on nights when staff members quit, and helped Montigel brainstorm what were initially weekly menus—often, while sitting on Crowes Pasture Beach with a couple of Miller Lites.

But what started as “writing menus on the beach”

capecodandtheislandsmag.com Osetra caviar atop a chive gougere (a savory choux pastry) made with soft scrambled eggs and crème fraîche.

quickly became a successful endeavor that’s in a category of its own on the Cape.

Seated at the bar, customer Bob Hickman notes that perhaps you could find a similar dining experience in Boston or another city. “But those tend to be much bigger venues,” he says. “This is very intimate and the interaction with the chefs involved is very unique.”

He and his wife, Linda Hickman, live in Chatham and have become regulars at Clean Slate. Adds Linda, “It’s a little nook in Dennis where you can come in and get the most beautiful food, prepared with this expertise, and also meet new people you’ve never met before.

It’s a beautiful experience.”

East Dennis oyster with lemon horseradish granita (a semi-frozen dessert) creatively served on a rock.

The personal experience created by the chefs is what makes dining at Clean Slate special, says Kevan Gibson of Osterville, another regular. Whenever his adult children visit, Gibson’s family comes to the restaurant and he brings a bottle of wine. Once, his kids asked him why he always brings wine that they never drink (you can bring your own bottle for a corking fee). “I said, ‘Because if I go to someone’s house, I feel like I should take a bottle of wine. These guys are cooking for me, so I’m going to bring a bottle of wine and leave it for them.” Gibson says his family never stopped joking about it, but at the same time, “They understand why it is.”

As the final course of the night is presented, the room erupts in applause for the chefs. “You made it, cheers!” one customer shouts. A woman at the bar toasts to the friend seated beside her for introducing her to Clean Slate. “Always bringing friends around the table, my love,” she says, raising her glass. “It’s a great place to be.”

CLEAN SLATE EATERY 702 Rte 28, Main St., West Dennis cleanslateeatery.com 508.292.8817 @cleanslateeatery @cleanslateeatery

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Food + Drink S I G N AT U R E S I P

SIGNATURE SIP:

Bulleit Proof

BY LANNAN M. O’BRIEN PHOTOGRAPHS BY DERRICK ZELLMANN

A modern twist on a whiskey sour, C Salt Wine Bar & Grille’s Bulleit Proof is a mix of Bulleit bourbon, Montenegro Amaro, fresh-squeezed lemon and orange juice, simple syrup, and egg whites. Behind the bar one Saturday before opening, dining room manager Catherine CorboZauner demonstrates how it’s made: a dry shake and a wet shake, then it’s poured into a coupe glass with a few drops of Angostura bitters. Even if you’re not a “bourbon person,” it’s hard not to enjoy this smooth cocktail topped with a frothy layer of egg whites.

Bulleit Proof, one of C Salt’s seasonal cocktails, stands out for its signature ingredient: a frothy layer of egg whites.

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TIP: It’s also worth trying C Salt’s spin on an old fashioned.

NOT DRINKING? Check out the restaurant’s full menu of creative mocktails.

Dining room manager Catherine Corbo-Zauner crafts creative seasonal cocktails to complement the restaurant’s rotating dinner menu.

Corbo-Zauner, who is currently working toward her Level 1 Sommelier Certification, helps the restaurant craft a new cocktail menu each season. Since C Salt’s food menu revolves around mostly local, seasonal ingredients, its drink menu does too, and she tries to create cocktails that complement chef Jonathan Philips’s dishes. The restaurant, owned by Philips and his wife, Jill, pairs high-end cuisine— modern American with Asian and French influences—with a more casual, intimate atmosphere.

“Our motto is, ‘Good food and good wine,’” says Corbo-Zauner, which blends seamlessly with C Salt’s “laid-back Cape Cod feel.” It’s not hard to see why the restaurant has a steady following of locals, and come tourist season, often draws weeklong vacationers twice or more in one trip.

“People are coming here for the experience of being here,” says Corbo-Zauner.

C SALT WINE BAR & GRILLE 75 Davis Straits, Falmouth csaltfalmouth.com 774.763.2954 @CSaltWineBarAndGrille @CSaltWineBarGrille

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Food + Drink B R E A K FA S T S P O T S

W H E R E

T O

G O

F O R

WHETHER YOU’RE INTO FRESH BAKED GOODS OR EGGS “ANY STYLE,” THERE ARE PLENTY OF OPTIONS TO SATISFY YOUR MORNING CRAVINGS THIS SIDE OF THE BRIDGE.

BY LANNAN M. O’BRIEN

Please check website or call about delivery options

MARSHLAND | SANDWICH This greasy spoon is a local favorite for breakfast.

There’s often a line out the door on summer mornings, and there’s also a separate bakery for muffins and more to go. marshlandrestaurants.com 109 Route 6A, Sandwich (Original) 315 Cotuit Rd, Sandwich (Marshland Too) 508.888.9824

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CAFÉ CHEW | SANDWICH If the sun is out, grab a table on the patio to catch up with old friends at this fun cafe, while you enjoy delicious brews and artisan sandwiches. cafechew.com 4 Merchants Road, Sandwich 508.888.7717

LAURA’S HOME COOKIN’ | MASHPEE Don’t miss Laura’s along Route 151 in Mashpee.

Stop in for homemade everything, including freshly baked bread and must-try corned-beef hash. facebook.com/LaurasHomeCookinMA 440 Nathan Ellis Hwy., Mashpee 781.760.6088

MOONAKIS CAFE | FALMOUTH Cajun sausage, homemade corned-beef hash, and pancakes of every flavor are a few reasons why this cafe is beloved for its breakfast. moonakiscafe.com 460 Rte. 28, Waquoit Hwy., East Falmouth 508.457.9630

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Food + Drink B R E A K FA S T S P O T S

PICKLE JAR KITCHEN | FALMOUTH From the table in the front window, watch the buzz on Main Street as you enjoy a dish from the Pickle Jar’s eclectic menu and sip something delicious from a Mason jar. picklejarkitchen.com 170 Main St., Falmouth 508.540.6760

THE MILLS | MARSTONS MILLS This little restaurant does the morning meal justice with coastal creations like a salmon-and-egg scramble and eggs over cod cakes, plus generous breakfast skillets, which are served in a cast-iron skillet. themillsrestaurant.com 149 Cotuit Road, Marstons Mills 508.428.9814

SPOON AND SEED | HYANNIS Rising to local fame over the past few years, this eatery proves itself worth the usual wait for its eggs Benedict variations and french toast with house-made challah bread. spoonandseed.com 12A Thornton Drive, Hyannis 774.470.4634

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THE DAILY PAPER | HYANNIS You can’t go wrong with anything on the enormous breakfast menu at this diner-esque restaurant, where the beer and coffee are local and the staff is always smiling. dailypapercapecod.com 644 West Main St., Hyannis, 508.790.8800 546 Main St., Hyannis, 508.775.9711

OLD YARMOUTH INN | YARMOUTH PORT The menu for the Sunday brunch buffet is never the same, but two things never change: it’s always a feast, and any plate pairs best with their Bloody Marys and mimosas. oldyarmouthinn.com 223 Route 6A, Yarmouth Port 508.362.9962

THE RED COTTAGE | SOUTH DENNIS Open since 1951, this diner is all about homemade dishes, including hand-cut, made-to-order home fries, with top-notch ingredients like thick-cut bacon made exclusively for them. (Opening May) redcottagerestaurant.com 36 Old Bass River Road, South Dennis 508.394.2923

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Food + Drink B R E A K FA S T S P O T S

CHATHAM FILLING STATION | CHATHAM Fill up on breakfast all day at this retro-styled roadside diner, where everything is homemade and almost everything comes with a fluffy popover. Cash only. chathamfillingstation.com 75 Old Harbor Road, Chatham 508.945.4380

HANGAR B EATERY | CHATHAM Once a hidden gem, this eatery at Chatham Municipal Airport has become so popular that customers wait over an hour in the summer for their lemon ricotta pancakes, red flannel hash, and homemade coffee. hangarbchatham.com 240 George Ryder Rd., Chatham 508.593.3655

SUNBIRD KITCHEN | ORLEANS There’s a lot to love about this self-proclaimed “neighborhood bird feeder,” including the bird breakfast sandwich, which is composed of a farm egg, smoky bacon, citrus mayo, and seasonal greens on grilled ciabatta. birdinthesun.com 85 Route 6A , Orleans 508.237.0354

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WHISK BREAKFAST & LUNCH CAFE ORLEANS This little restaurant opened last year and has become known for great food like hard cider corned-beef hash and build-your-own breakfast bowls. whiskcapecod.com Windmill Plaza, 210 Main St., Orleans 508.255.2233

LIZ’S CAFE, ANYBODY’S BAR PROVINCETOWN You can expect a wait for a seat at this diner.

Customers will line up for the chicken and waffles, french toast, and hash and eggs. Turn any visit into a Sunday Funday with Liz’s “Queen Mary” bloody, a sunrise mimosa, or a peach bellini. lizscafeptown.com 31 Bradford St., Provincetown 508.413.9131

FANIZZI’S RESTAURANT BY THE SEA PROVINCETOWN It doesn’t get much better than this all-you-caneat brunch starring sirloin beef breakfast burritos, mussels, and eggs Benedict complemented by serene ocean views. fanizzisrestaurant.com 539 Commercial St., Provincetown 508.487.1964

SPRING 2020 » 85

Food + Drink B R E A K FA S T S P O T S

BISCUITS | OAK BLUFFS The name is Biscuits, and the game is no-frills Southern comfort with a New England twist— think cod cake Benedict, shrimp and grits, and of course, fluffy biscuits and gravy. facebook.com/biscuitsmv 26 Lake Ave., Oak Bluffs 508.693.2033

KEEPERS | NANTUCKET Just off the beaten path of downtown, Keepers is a year-round gem that pays homage to the location’s former restaurant—the old Fog Island, which was beloved by islanders. The fluffy buttermilk pancakes won’t disappoint. keepersnantucket.com 5 Amelia Drive, Nantucket 508.228.0009

ISLAND KITCHEN | NANTUCKET In addition to healthy dishes like a tofu scramble, this island spot stands out for its epic breakfast sandwich, the Animal, which features two panko-crusted fried eggs, sausage, bacon, and homemade hollandaise on a brioche bun. nantucketislandkitchen.com 1 Chin’s Way, Nantucket 508.228.2639

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CAPE COD AND THE ISLANDS NOW HAS ITS OWN WEDDING DESTINATION MAGAZINE

ONE-OF-A-KIND CELEBRATED WEDDINGS

Gorgeous and inspirational featured real weddings celebrated throughout Cape Cod, Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard.

Celebrated is an annual publication that delivers the exquisite beauty of weddings and events throughout New England’s most beloved locations, and honors the expertise and passion of the professionals within the industry.

Be a part of Celebrated! Talk to a sales expert today: sales@celebratedbespokeweddings.com Getting married? Submit your wedding to us: info@celebratedbespokeweddings.com

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RECIPE

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A HEARTY VEGETABLE SOUP AND BISCUITS FOR A SPRING THAT IS SLOW TO ARRIVE.

BY SARAH WALDMAN » PHOTOGRAPHS BY ELIZABETH CECIL

Most people like to think spring means blue skies, daffodils, and breezy dresses, but we New Englanders know that most of the time it means rain, mud, and a seemingly endless stretch of overcast skies. Here on Martha’s Vineyard our transition from frost to thaw and icicles to buds takes awhile. Even when off-island towns are blanketed with tulips and forsythia, the island, especially the up-island towns, is still mostly twigs and piles of dead leaves.

Despite the slow beginning, I am always happy when I start to notice new signs of spring, such as a freshly constructed bird’s nest on the porch, louder bird songs in the morning, or the announcement of still more baby lambs from the farm down the road. This is the time of year when my family craves a cozy, warming meal at the end of the day, but also one that celebrates the island’s long-awaited spring produce and seasonal freshness. This recipe for Lemony Chicken Soup with Leeks and Fennel is the best of both worlds—a bowl of warming supper that is packed with greenery, bright lemon, and fresh herbs. Because in our house it’s all about what you’re dunking into your soup bowl, I’m also sharing our recipe for simple Buttermilk Biscuits, which only requires six ingredients and 30 minutes.

Spring certainly has magic to share—rebirth, new growth, and an invitation to start again. I encourage you to take these seasonal lessons into the kitchen and get cooking!

SPRING 2020 » 89

RECIPE

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LEMONY CHICKEN SOUP

with Leeks & Fennel 2 1/2 pounds bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts kosher salt and black pepper 5 tablespoons olive oil 1 large fennel bulb, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, minced 3 leeks 1 pound small red potatoes, diced 1/2 teaspoon red-pepper flakes (optional) 6 cups chicken stock 2 lemons 1 cup dill, coarsely chopped 3 scallions, thinly sliced

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Rub chicken with a drizzle of canola oil then season with salt and pepper. Place chicken skin side up on a baking sheet and roast until chicken meat is no longer pink at the bone and the juices run clear (about 45 minutes). An instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the breast meat should read 165 degrees F (75 degrees C). Set cooked chicken aside to cool. Once the chicken has cooled enough to be handled, shred the meat from the bones with your hands and set aside. Pour any pan drippings into a dutch oven or large soup pot.

Heat the dutch oven with pan drippings over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil, fennel,

garlic, and leeks. Season with salt and pepper, and cook—stirring occasionally—until the vegetables soften (about seven minutes). Add the cubed potatoes, red-pepper flakes, and chicken stock to the pot and season with salt and pepper. Stir to combine and bring to a simmer. Once the soup is simmering, add in zest and juice of two lemons, dill, and scallions.

Cover and let the pot simmer until potatoes are cooked through (about 10 minutes). Lastly, add in the shredded chicken to reheat. Taste for seasoning and, if you like, add more lemon, red-pepper flakes, salt, or pepper. Serve with buttermilk biscuits.

SPRING 2020 » 91

RECIPE

BUTTERMILK

Biscuits

2 cups all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup very cold unsalted butter, cubed 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold buttermilk 1 teaspoon honey

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Preheat oven to 425 degrees F. Place the flour, baking powder, and salt in the bowl of a food processor and pulse a few times to combine. Add the cubed butter and continue to pulse until the butter is the size of peas. Transfer the mixture into a large mixing bowl.

Make a well in the center of the mixture and pour in the buttermilk and honey. Using your hands, combine everything but do not overwork the dough. The dough should be shaggy and crumbly.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured countertop, and using your hands, gently work it into a rectangle.

Using a rolling pin, softly roll the dough into a one-inch thick rectangle large enough for 9 to 11, three-inch circle biscuits. Cut biscuits out using a biscuit cutter or the rim of a drinking glass (a large mason jar works well). Press the cutter down and back up, without twisting the dough. Combine scraps to form another one-inch piece of dough to cut out as many biscuits as you can.

Arrange the discs in a cast-iron skillet so that the edges touch one another. Brush the tops with the remaining buttermilk. Bake in preheated oven until the tops are golden brown (about 15 minutes). If you have leftover biscuits, they can be covered tightly and stored at room temperature for up to five days.

Attention Readers!

Submit Your Recipe!

Do you have a crowd-pleasing recipe that you’d like to share?

Cape Cod and the Islands is inviting readers to submit recipes for the chance to be featured in an upcoming issue.

Whether it’s a favorite meal that has been passed down through your family, or one that you designed yourself, we’d love to hear from you.

Send an email to Kelly Chase at: kchase@capecodandtheislandsmag.com for a chance to be featured.

SPRING 2020 » 93

Writer’s Shack P O E T R Y

“Historic Numbers of Right Whales Skim Feeding off Cape Cod”

By Elizabeth Bradfield

Who would expect their appetite would come to seem ominous?

But now I know they are voids of hunger. They plough a field of plankton, turn, plough again. They strip the water like loggers on a clearcut.

The bay this spring seemed overrun by stern, enormous beetles: black, vaguely military, inexorable.

Poor plankton, adrift in flailing clouds, poor blushing copepods with delicate antennae, watermelon scent — you don’t stand a chance.

Week after week, right whales eat the bay down until they have to leave it.

Time and proximity have made them monsters. This must be how it was before.

From Once Removed by Elizabeth Bradfield.

Copyright © 2015 by Elizabeth Bradfield. Reprinted by permission of Persea Books, Inc. (New York)

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Truro’s Elizabeth Bradfield is a hemispheric woman. A scientist and poet, she relies on both hemispheres of her brain to study and respond to the world. Her work as a naturalist takes her to Antarctica (most decidedly the Southern Hemisphere), but her writing blends the distant world with what’s close to home, creating depth and nuance by layering the universal with the highly personal.

Her other territories—photography and teaching—are complements, too. One involves creation while the other supports the creativity of others. And as founder and

editor-in-chief of Broadsided Press, she publishes monthly visual-literary collaborations that anyone can download and print for free: yet another venture that involves receiving and giving, creation and collaboration. Her poem “Historic Numbers of Right Whales Skim Feeding off Cape Cod”, reprinted here from her collection Once Removed (Persea Books, 2015), is a fine example of her worlds layered. Fresh, evocative language. And a beautifully complicated mind.

— Lauren Wolk

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FINAL THOUGHT

An excerpt from Cape Cod by Henry David Thoreau, originally published by Ticknor and Fields in 1865.

I saw that this was a place of wonders. In a sea turn or shallow fog while I was there the next summer, it being clear overhead, the edge of the bank twenty rods distant, appeared like a mountain pasture in the horizon. I was completely deceived by it, and I could then understand why mariners sometimes ran ashore in such cases, especially in the night, supposing it to be far away, though they could see the land. Once since this, being in a large oyster boat two or three hundred miles from here, in a dark night, when there was a thin veil of mist on land and water, we came so near to running on to the land before our skipper was aware of it, that the first warning was my hearing the sound of the surf under my elbow. I could almost have jumped ashore, and we were obliged to go about very suddenly to prevent striking.

The distant light for which we were steering, supposing it a light-house five or six miles off, came through the cracks of a fisherman’s bunk not more than six rods distant.

The keeper entertained us handsomely in his solitary little ocean house. He was a man of singular patience and intelligence, who, when our queries struck him, rung as clear as a bell in response. The light-house lamps a few feet distant shone full into my chamber, and made it as bright as day, so I knew exactly how the Highland Light bore all that night, and I was in no danger of being wrecked. Unlike the last, this was as still as a summer night. I thought, as I lay there, half awake and half asleep, looking upward through the window at the lights above my head, how many sleepless eyes from far out on the Ocean stream—mariners of all nations spinning their yarns through the various watches of the night—were directed toward my couch.

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