The Circular Economy

N0684707 Emily Kemp

Circular Economy

Word count: 3246 This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed.

Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the University's regulations on assessment contained in its handbook.

Signed: Printed: Dated:

Contents

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1

About this Report

1 Rationale 1 Aim and Objectives 2 Methodology

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6 Introduction 6 The Issue 8 Drivers 9 Fast Fashion 12 Ocean Trash 14 Excessive Waste

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3

The Solution

17 Sustainability 19 Circular Economy

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Current Implementations

22 26 30 34

Waste Not, Want Not Sharing Economy Material Collection Key Insights

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5

Why It Hasn’t Been Fully Adopted

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38 Future

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40 Conclusion

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42 Appendices 42 48

1. PESTLE 2. Why Hasn’t it Been Fully Adopted So Far?

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52 References 54 Bibliography 60 List Of Illustrations

About This Report Rationale This report has been produced to highlight the issues our planet is facing and examine the current and future implementations of a circular economy (CE) put in place by government, businesses and consumers. Subsequently, it shall analyse why the model has not yet progressed further and conclude with what’s needed for it to evolve in the future to aid the need for sustainable practices.

Aim To examine whether a CE is a viable model for the future of society.

Objectives To understand the meaning and development of CE. To recognise advances within different industry sectors with a focus on fashion.

To examine implementations already in place from the government, businesses and consumers.

To realise why the CE model hasn’t built momentum and reached its full potential as of yet.

To realise if a CE could eradicate the issue of excessive waste in the future.

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Methodology What?

Aim

Reports

To learn about specific topics including various industries, specific brand examples and society from experts, whether this be individuals, companies or organisations.

Trend Reports

For initial research, to discover a variety of macro trends at present, gain a basic understanding to each and see connections between varying reports to discover where my interest lies.

Government Reports

To gain reliable statistical data regarding the UK and review accurate statistics on waste levels and their view on whether as a country we are managing our waste well or not.

Books

To gain understanding of the meaning, history and development of sustainability, CEs and other trends regarding the maintenance and prolonging of the environment.

To develop knowledge of how the concept, CE, came into thought and the logistics behind an ideal scenario.

Journal Articles

To read theories and thoughts from experts who’ve already brought together multiple sources of information and reviewed them to form an opinion on the matter.

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Limitations Depending upon who the report was compiled by, it could be biased e.g. towards their own generation or favour certain trends/brands, making them appear more influential than they may be.

Trend reports give a very basic overview of trends, not offering much history and often will give examples of niche businesses which may not of great significance to the industry as a whole. Much greater depth of reading and different resources would be needed after trend selection.

Government reports are likely to highlight positive findings over negative ones as to try to give off the impression to UK citizens and other countries that they are controlling the country well.

Doesn’t offer any recent innovations, legislation etc. Books must be used in conjunction with more up to date sources.

Authors still may be biased in their conclusions or fail to address a certain area within the topic. Multiple authors should give the same conclusion to make a finding credible.

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What?

Aim

News Articles

To discover up to date news stories regarding the trend, showing innovations within different industry sectors as well as government efforts towards sustainability.

Websites

To explore a range of businesses and organisations and how they present themselves, their missions and values.

Alternative websites also give news stories as well as trend information.

Documentaries

To gain more detailed information on the issues of climate change and our waste problem.

Podcasts

To gain insight and reliable opinion about issues and include findings from a number of reliable resources.

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Limitations News reports can often be biased and therefore unreliable though this was restricted by separating facts from opinions presented from different sources.

Websites often fail to give straight facts as organisation’s skew content in their favour or to how they want themselves or their values to be perceived.

Can emphasise certain points to make a documentary seem more interesting and capturing to its audience

Speakers also may be biased in ther views and conclusions.

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Introduction The Issue

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“We are using 1.7 Earths.”

(Earth Overshoot Day 2018)

The damage we are inflicting on our planet is taking its toll. We’re seeing issues in the form of imminent resource scarcity, global warming leading to melting ice caps and rising water levels causing a complete restructure of some landscapes. For instance, Asia’s Aral Sea has run dry for the first time in 600 years (Howard 2014) (see below), eliminating a thriving fishing industry in the area.

Furthermore, our over consumption and poor utilisation of materials is prompting premature death to habitats and wildlife and pushing poverty levels, disease and famine across less developed countries, only worsening with our growing population, set to reach 9 billion by 2050 (Baker n.d.). We are currently exhausting 70% more resources than our Earth can renew in a year, meaning change is essential in order to limit the damage being done, to protect humanity and the future of our planet.

On the other hand, ‘climate sceptics’ don’t believe the issues of climate change are down to mankind rather much, if not all, is natural. This report will examine an aspect of global, environmental issues which is indisputably down to humanity: excessive waste levels, with a focus on ocean trash and that caused by fast fashion and therefore the importance of growing sustainable practices including CE.

Asia’s Aral Sea

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Drivers

Fast Fashion Textile waste levels have been increasing and, in the world of fast fashion, shows no sign of slowing down.

“Fashion is the second dirtiest industry in the world, next to big oil,” (Sweeny 2015) accounting for 10% of all carbon emissions as well as 20% of all global freshwater pollution as a result of the treatment and dying of textiles (The Future Laboratory 2016).

In the UK alone, 235 million items of clothing went to landfill last year (Harrabin 2018) heavily due to our materialistic values driving consumer behaviour to the ‘desire for new’ (Campbell 1992). Social media platforms, like Instagram, have acted as a catapult to the throw away culture as, following in influencers footsteps, portraying the idealistic life on these platforms have for many become crucial aspects to social acceptance. Despite eco-activists now taking a stand on social media, these individuals and their followings are minute compared to that of (e.g. fashion or beauty) bloggers collectively. “Social media can make an insurmountable problem into a shared task.” (Stott, Tooze, and Thiruchelvam 2016) With this in mind, will sustainable practices only hit mass adoption by consumers if and when bloggers and influencers take a larger stance on the issue?

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Brands are fulfilling consumer’s excessive demands by straying from traditional models, for example Zara who deliver new products up to twice a week, where there would have previously only been seasonal collections. With so many new items coming in, products are often heavily discounted to remove unwanted stock, adding to the problem of unethical production as workers cannot be paid a fair rate at these low prices. In March, it was reported that H&M had $4.3bn worth of unsold clothes (Saner 2018), conjuring the question: what is happening to all of this now? In the past year the company have been accused of burning tonnes of unsold apparel despite their ongoing efforts towards closing loops within fashion.

New affordable, e-commerce giants such as PrettyLittleThing and Nasty Gal, who’ve reported a 50% rise in sales in the six months up to August 2018 (BBC Newsbeat 2018), have also made a monumental impact to this issue. Brands such as these target millennials and Gen Zers with low priced, low quality clothing and footwear, making it possible for their customers to continually replace their wardrobe with the latest fads which has led to 3/5 items in UK landfill having arrived there within under a year of ownership (Harrabin 2018).

With such issues already in place and global fashion consumption projected to increase by 63% by 2030 (GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA and THE BOSTON CONSULTING GROUP 2017), change is essential.

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Ocean Trash Ocean trash is one of the clearest examples of man inflicted damage to our planet.

With 5.25 trillion pieces and counting (Parker 2015), “the plastic we throw away each year could circle the earth 4 times” (Siegle 2018), killing corals and marine life alike. Plastic is the primary material among ocean trash, stemming from our use, and improper disposal of, singular use plastic products such as bags, bottles and straws even though, “89% of bottled

water drinkers/buyers say that they try to recycle the water bottles they buy,” (Mintel. com 2018). Research shows, if our wastage habits continue at the same rate, “there will be more plastic than fish by weight in the world’s oceans by 2050,” (Kottasová 2018). Furthermore, on a global basis, only 14% of plastic is collected for recycling, in comparison to 58% of paper and up to 90% of iron and steel (Kottasová), which shows our consideration to plastic waste isn’t as developed as our current procedures for waste prevention for other materials.

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Excessive Waste Textile and plastic waste are just 2 examples of our excessive trashing habits. Humanity produces 2.1 billion tonnes of waste per year (GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA and THE BOSTON CONSULTING GROUP 2017). In England alone, the government estimate that we contribute 33.1 million tonnes of this (Department for Environmental Food & Rural Affairs 2017, 2018), however the latest figures are only from 2016. Prior to this, levels had been decreasing for a number of years though seemed to level out, increasing slightly, between 2015-2016, meaning accurate levels now are likely to be similar, if not higher, to this figure.

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Another key industry example is food which generates 7 million tonnes of waste a year from households. In fact, the average family of 4 could save an average of £70 a month simply by throwing away less (Lovefoodhatewaste.com 2018; Recycle for London 2018). Busier lifestyles have resulted in people failing to plan their meals subsequently causing a large amount going to waste. These figures are significantly higher with millennials who see food as a pleasure, compared to boomers who view it more as a necessity. Millennials wish to create the best experience even if costlier (Bailey 2017).

Yet consumers cannot be solely blamed for this issue, businesses are equally responsible. As said by The Future Laboratory in their 2016 sustainability report; “The pursuit of profit maximisation at any cost has come at a great cost to the planet and our humanity. Today’s culture of quarterly earnings hysteria is totally contrary to the long-term approach we need.”

This being said, a wave of innovative, sustainable businesses are emerging which this report shall examine.

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The

Solution

Sustainability

Sustainability means operating to “meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” (Baker n.d.) This considers economic, environmental and social (or ‘equity’) objectives, all of which must be addressed in order to be considered sustainable.

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[Importance To Brands]

Brand Reformative’s Product Labelling

An interconnectivity is forming between businesses and sustainability (The Future Laboratory 2016) as brands recognise the consumer demand for transparency and greater efforts towards eco-friendly operations (Baizley 2018). Government implement legislation regarding this, still in order to be considered ‘sustainable’ by consumers, businesses must well exceed these guidelines. 33% of people, and rising, now choose to buy from brands they believe are doing social or environmental good (Unilever 2017) as they’re increasingly aware of the impacts behind their purchases (The Future Laboratory, 2016). Even though many may still be naive to the extent of the subject matter [Appendix 2, ‘naivety’], 9/10 say they want to know more about sustainability (BBC Newsbeat 2018), showing the widespread acknowledgment and consideration regarding environmental issues. Consequently, brands are finding new ways to convey their efforts to the new generation of consumers. For instance, H&M enlisted MIA to compose a track for their campaign ‘ReWear It’ targeting millennials and Gen Zer’s, the brands core consumers, who resonate with this style of music. Alternatively, Reformative use packaging and labelling to quickly offer consumers the environmental information behind an item.

“Sustainable attributes are becoming increasingly important in a brand valuation,” (Grubor and Milovanov 2017) meaning failure to operate or effectively communicate sustainable practices can lead to ridicule on social media which ultimately can be detrimental for a brand’s image.

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Circular Economy

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The CE is one of the latest trends among many stemming from sustainability in which society is interrelated with nature. It aims to prevent the depletion of resources, close energy and materials loops, and facilitate sustainable development through its implementation at the micro, meso and macro levels. (Prieto-Sandoval 2018) This is not a new term though has never taken to mass adoption as around 80% of the UK’s economy still follows a linear model (Symons 2016), whereby raw materials are extracted, produced into products, distributed, consumed and wasted.

“There’s already enough metal, enough plastic to support our economy many times over. There’s a huge abundance of premium grade trash to use and re-use as base-source content for new products.”

- (Hotten 2018) Finding new ways to reuse materials in the coming years will allow for innovative businesses to blossom.

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4 Current Implementations The next section of this report will review 3 key areas within a circular economy: Production, Usage, Disposal

Waste Not, Want Not Production

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Plastic Waste Fashion Referring to their collaboration with Parley, Adidas state; “Garbage in does not have to be garbage out,” (Adidas UK 2018) challenging the mentality of what ‘new’ can mean. Plastic is a popular material in sportswear, as it dries quickly, making this a prime cross-sector example as it reduces the issue of ocean trash while making a quality product. The collection is now expected to see sales grow from 1 million in 2017 to 5 million this year (Kottasová 2018), suggesting a growing consumer interest in products produced from recycled materials. Other brands also using ocean trash or recycled plastic include Ecoalf, Dell, Colgate, Timberland and many more showing this issue is beginning to be tackled across a wide range of industries. Despite currently being more expensive than ‘virgin plastic’, as recycled plastic becomes more widely used, it will become more affordable and readily available (Harman and Barnes 2018).

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Food Waste

Beauty

Fashion

Food waste is additionally seeing multiple uses. Following a consumer demand for more ethical products (Yee 2018), the beauty sector is using fruit waste as a new source for antioxidants, antimicrobial and anti-ageing compounds, for example Fruu is using it in lip balms. Brands ‘Optiat’ and ‘Em and Nick’s’ alternatively source discarded coffee granules from bars and cafés, including them in scrubs, as the granules help reduce inflammation and brighten skin. A wave of niche, similar innovative beauty brands are emerging (Yee) again showing a present demand. Their key to success is a strong relationship with farmers, supermarkets etc. to provide the excess waste at no cost.

The growing issues around animal rights and the rise of veganism has pushed for more leather alternatives, now in the form of fruit waste, also making the products decomposable.

Brands such as Fruitleather and Frumat are spreading the message of the severity of food waste whilst showing product quality doesn’t have to differ.

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Sharing Economy Usage A sharing economy is one in which individuals share products or services among themselves, which can make for a highly successful business strategy, as it addresses consumer needs as and when they arise, while making use of excess resources or keeping products in a continual flow of usage rather than allowing them to be prematurely wasted.

Fashion

For example, Rent The Runway allow customers to rent rather than purchase high end clothing items. Other emerging platforms follow a similar model though only charge the consumer for the specific usage of a garment rather than the standard fee. Although this would mean a higher utilization rate of garments there is the risk of people over consuming as it becomes cheaper to wear a range of pieces ultimately leading to similar wastage levels from an alternative cause (H&M Foundation 2017).

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More recently, for the fashion industry, brand Depop and similar platforms have emerged due to globalisation and digital connectivity. Primarily popular among millennials and Gen Zer’s seeking vintage or rare apparel, Depop allows users to sell their unwanted items peer-to-peer, giving an alternative to continually buy new while extending the life of their old garments.

This service concept is more likely to aid the demise of fast fashion as it’s more financially viable, benefiting both seller and buyer, making it accessible to a wider market. Despite apps such as Depop gaining traction we still greatly ‘desire the new’ (Campbell 1992) and are willing to pay more to get it.

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Food For the food industry, apps such as Olio and Unsung allows people and local businesses to pass on food they have no use for. Whether close to its sell by date or they’re going away, the app allows them to upload their excess food for others to collect or, in Unsung’s case, volunteers will collect and deliver to the homeless or others in need.

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Material Collection Disposal

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Not too long ago, it was the norm for things such as milk and beer bottles to be collected on a regular basis to be reused. Will we return to this kind of model?

Plastic Waste Supermarkets In aid to reduce the level of plastic waste we generate, supermarkets such as Co-op, Iceland and Tesco have, or have plans to, trial ‘reverse vending machines’ in order to gauge consumer’s response. Such machines take used plastic bottles, generally, in exchange for a 10p monetary reward to be used in store. The trials come in anticipation of the UK government’s plans for a Deposit Return Scheme which was announced this

year. Operating in a similar manor, all single use plastic bottles would come with an initial obligatory deposit, to be returned to the customer when disposing correctly to such machines. Similar strategies have led to up to 97% recycling rates in other countries. (Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs and The Rt Hon Michael Gove MP 2018).

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Fashion

90%

Potential

Within the fashion industry, similar programs have been present for many years, collecting and recycling used clothing apparel such as by, outdoor clothing retailers, Patagonia and The North Face, brands with an obvious connection to the environment. However, we still only reuse or recycle 15% of textiles when it’s possible to use 90% (H&M Foundation 2018), but more innovative methods are cropping up. The Global Change Award, set up by the H&M Foundation, Accenture and the KTH Royal Institute of Technology, began in 2015 with the aim to encourage innovative start-ups to find new ways to push the fashion industry from a linear to circular model. This year’s winners included ways to convert food waste, algae and mushrooms into textiles, a dissolvable thread and a methods to seperate the common mix of cotton and polyester from garments.

15%

Actual

Textile Recycling Levels

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Crop-A-Porter Making sustainable textiles from leftovers of food crop harvests

Global Change Awards 2018

Algae Apparel Turns algae into bio-fibre and eco-friendly dye which is also good for your skin

Smart Stitch A dissolvable thread which makes the process of repairing and recycling much simpler

The Regenerator Separates and regenerates cotton and polyester mixes to recirculate fibres

Fungi Fashion Turns decomposable mushroom roots into custom-made clothes

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{ [Key Insights] [CE addresses the pillars of sustainability by...]

Environmental: Pressure shall be alleviated on the Earth’s resources, as less is needed to be newly sourced, due to higher recycling rates as collection of products is improved and innovative ways to reuse them emerge. Furthermore, fewer newly manufactured products will be required in order to meet demand, due to optimised utilisation of existing products achieved via an increase in ‘as a service’ models and peer-to-peer exchanges. The collection of waste, such as plastic, will additionally reduce our negative impacts on wildlife and their habitats.

Social: In 1958, Keller discussed the commodity and convenience costs involved during a purchase. The sharing economy is flourishing as it offers cheaper alternatives at your fingertips, benefiting both costs for the consumer. Additionally, with fewer resource restraints consumer needs will more easily be met and industries will be able to quickly adapt to changes in consumer behaviour.

{

Economic: The economy will thrive from a range of new innovations in the form waste re-usage, business models and technology, all of which, in the long-term, shall significantly reduce the cost of manufacture for businesses. Furthermore, workforces shall grow by about 4% (Stahel 2016) due to the additional man-power required in order to convert fewer new resources (more recycled) into something new [Appendix 1, ‘economic’], decreasing unemployment levels.

Finally, consumers shall benefit from alternative purchasing options, reducing costs as they’re able to pay for their individual usage, rather than the full product price, or exchange peer-to-peer which will be significantly cheaper than buying new.

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“We cannot effectively practice sustainability in the absence of collective action.�

(Thiele 2016)

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Why Hasn’t It Been Fully Adopted?

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[Key Insights]

“Everybody, everywhere seems to be, ‘or at least feels’, busy.”

(Anonymous 2014) As consumers desire more time, they’ve come to rank convenience above monetary and now seemingly environmental factors, even when demanding this from businesses, showing an inconsistency between attitude and buying behaviour. In addition: “Quality is still associated with the newness not with caring; long-term use as undesirable, not resourceful.”

(Stahel 2016) Consumers fail to see the value in old products or waste as opportunistic. They’re desire for the new (Campbell 1992) skews their take on what is, or can be, made valuable and they are reluctant to change in their ways (McNeill and Moore 2015).

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{

{

Despite the potential of CE it’s so far failed to gain momentum due to societies self-focused mentality and lack of knowledge [Appendix 2]. The majority of brands are still primarily profitorientated (The Future Laboratory 2016) and governments lack total commitment to the long-term environmental issue due to the presence of targets which must be met for a short-term benefit however, examples mentioned show that, both are beginning to take risks and adopt the model.

Future...

The Global Change Award highlighted 5 mega trends for the future of sustainable fashion (H&M Foundation 2017) which can be applied and are widely recognised to multiple industries:

Global Change Award’s Mega-trends

Multiple Industry Application

Long Term

Adoption Rate

Short Term

(H&M Foundation 2017)

Long Live Fashion

Peer-to-peer exchanges

Rent a Closet

‘As a service’ model

Innovative Recycling

Disruptive ways to collect and extract materials from products for reuse

Power of Nature

Using excess/waste plant matter to produce products

Connected Clothes

Tech-tagged products

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Assuming CE is more widely adopted, in future it shall impact consumers with a greater sense of togetherness due to an increase in peer-to-peer sales, and lead businesses to a wave of innovations in the form of new ways of using waste as a raw material and technology as well as being open to an ‘as a service’ model.

Future Impact

Togetherness

The rise of digital connectivity shall allow the sharing economy to continue to emerge; businesses will work closely together gifting their waste for others to use while peer-to-peer exchanges will be more common among consumers. Digital platforms, such as Depop and Olio, propel the adoption of this as it allows people to come together, pairing corresponding wants and needs to those able to fulfil the demand.

Innovation

Innovative brands and creators will thrive by developing new ways to use and reuse products and waste; for instance, using cow manure for clothing purposes (H&M Foundation 2017). Whether consumers are ready for extreme examples such as this is another matter. Alternatively, innovations could come in the form of business models turning to an ‘as a service’ approach rather than just selling products. New innovations will take time to hit mass adoption as society adjusts to the new concept or could still require new technology to become feasible.

Technology

In the longer term, technology advances will present new opportunities to better track a products history. Proper labelling will allow consumers to properly dispose of, and recycling experts to properly disassemble and extract materials, to allow it to be re-introduced to at the production stage. Millennials will embrace the latest innovations and technology (StyleSight Trend Board 2018) however Boomers will be slower to adopt as they’re less tech-savvy. They now do grasp new technologies but having grown up with it at their disposal, the younger generations are much more receptive to the latest advancements.

[Appendix 1, ‘technological’]

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Conclusion Implementations of a CE are occurring whether people are conscious of the model or not. To eliminate the issue of excessive waste, governments, businesses and consumers alike must target all operations and activities towards the communal goal of sustainability.

Failure to do so by any one of these will be detrimental as each is highly influential to another. Though gradual adoption shall continue, as society realises the potential of a CE, it still shall not be fully adopted for a number of years due to societies self-focused mentality and lack of knowledge.

Businesses shall continue to look at innovative ways of using waste as a raw material, alternative business models and technology following the consumer demand for transparency however greater cross-sector links are vital in order to share knowledge and to make connections between one industries outputs to become another’s input.

Due to digital connectivity, consumers are benefiting from more peerto-peer exchanges which they’ve embraced due to both monetary and convenience costs of their purchase (Keller 1958) being benefited. On the other hand, when buying from brands, this need for convenience paired with their ‘desire for new’ (Campbell 1992) as well as their perception of quality (Stahel, 2016), inconsistencies arise between mentalities regarding sustainble practice and actual purchase behaviour. This is the primary factor which must be targeted in order for a CE to be further adopted in the future and for the issue of excessive waste to be eradicated.

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Appendix 1 What?

Political In the 2016 election campaign, Donald Trump said climate change was a hoax and has generally avoided taking a clear stance on the issue since taking office. (BBC News 2018)

Following the introduction of charges on single use plastic bags, this year, government announced their plans for a ‘Deposit Return scheme’. This would involve an upfront deposit on any single use plastic bottles which would be returned on proper disposal. (Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs and The Rt Hon Michael Gove MP 2018)

Environmental “Warming of the climate system is unequivocal.” (Romm 2018)

Social “Social media can make an insurmountable problem into a shared task.”

(Stott, Tooze and Thiruchelvam 2016)

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PESTLE Analysis Implications?

Climate-change skeptics as politicians have the potential to influence sustainable practices across a whole country. With a more eco-focused President, a larger sum of the budget would be put towards sustainable implementations and innovations. Additionally, these opinions and standards will be passed onto some businesses and consumers whether they follow Trump or not. Implementations will effect them, for example, in the form of slacking environmental legislation.

Everyone is becoming aware of the issue of plastic waste, particularly among our oceans.

As governments push for more to be done, businesses will see this as an opportunity.

More are finding innovative ways to use plastic waste in products and encouraging their customers to be more considerate about the issue.

Global warming is now an apparent issue, recognised by most. In order to manage this and reduce our impact, change is essential. Governments, businesses and consumers alike are recognising this and taking action. Soon failure to do so will result in scrutiny by others.

Social media and influencers propelling the problem of a throw away culture. Bloggers portray the idealistic life, staying on top of trends and seemingly constantly buying new, encouraging others to do the same. Instagram is the primary platform for this although others still have an impact. YouTube for example: vloggers for instance Zoella, post ‘hauls’ [Continued]

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What?

An Elle survey showed 9/10 want to know more about sustainability. (Stott, Tooze, and Thiruchelvam 2016)

Technological Technological advancement

Legal Following laws to charge for single use plastic bags, there are plans to ban plastic straws as do many other countries (Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs, Prime Minister’s Office, 10 Downing Street, and The Rt Hon Michael Gove MP 2018) Many brands already have, or plan to, remove them including: McDonald’s, All Bar One, Wetherspoon, Pizza Express, Wagamama, Costa, Starbucks, Pret A Manger, majority of supermarkets, Marriott International, London City Airport.

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Implications? in which they buy an array of products and present them to their viewers. In her most watched haul, Zoella said: “You can never have too many pyjama bottoms, especially from Primark because they are such good value for money and you get a lot. A lot.” (Zoella 2015), encouraging the mentality of more being better rather than owning a few select pieces of higher quality, a mentality which is pushed onto her viewers.

(Stott, Tooze, and Thiruchelvam 2016) On the other hand, social media and influencers can be used for change for good: • Glacier Girl (Elizabeth Farrell) “Pinpoints dangers of future sea level rises caused by climate change and melting ice caps by posting provocative imagery on Instagram that appeals to her generation.”

• Xiuhtezcati Martinez, who was presented a Youth Change Maker of the Year Award by President Obama, uses social media to encourage his cause ‘#GENERATIONRYSE’. He says: “Many of us feel despair when it comes to dealing with climate change because we don’t know where to start. We are ready to contribute to the solution; we just need the tools, confidence and momentum to get started.”

This shows society is aware of the problems our planet is facing but more than not aren’t clear on the meaning of sustainability or how it is/can be implemented. This presents a gap for Governments and/or businesses to communicate meanings and methods to consumers in a new way and doing this effectively could act as a competitive advantage for brands.

Advances in technology will allow new innovations in future pushing for greater sustainability and a CE. This is already being seen in the concept of clothes tagging, where clothes would be technologically tagged, relaying information about the garment and what materials are in it, allowing it to be more easily recycled at the end of the products life.

See ‘political’ point 2

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What?

Economic CE goes against the concept of GDP. GDP determines a country’s economic performance by monitoring the value of all goods made whereas a CE is heavily to do with the maintenance of goods meaning less is needed to be produced.

For some, fast fashion isn’t an frivolous buying behaviour but rather their full budget for clothing

“A study of seven European nations found that a shift to a circular economy would... grow its workforce by about 4%” (Stahel 2016).

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Implications?

Governments are slow to adopt a CE model as , even if they may see the potential benefits for them, it goes against the traditional measure of a countries success meaning implementing the new model could reflect badly on them.

Sustainable brands are typically above average in price. Even if consumers wish to buy into sustainable brands this may not be feasible for them.

More man power and fewer resources are required to refurbish/recycle something meaning a CE model would increase a nations workforce, addressing the ‘economic’ pillar of sustainability.

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Appendix 2 Consumers

Why?

Explain?

Perception of Quality

We desire the best, whether this is to look, feel or have, we want it. Our perception of best, however, generally means buying new. There’s a stigma around second hand products and waste.

We see it as lower quality and often of no use to us. In addition to this, we often follow a ‘style over substance’ mentality’, opting for more expensive luxury brands or continually buying in order to stay on trend rather buying pieces of true quality.

This is particularly high among millennials, in comparison to boomers who have experienced more financially difficult times and therefore put a greater value on quality and have a different understanding of necessity.

Laziness

In general society is lazy. We want products where and when we want them with no hassle to get them. This means easy delivery options, including next day, and slick operations are essential behind the scene. Even if we carry care for our environment, we often put this to the side for the sake of greater convenience even if this costs more too.

Naivety

Many are still unaware to the extent of issues our planet is facing or the impacts behind products they buy or are still confused regarding the terms relating to sustainability. Even the eco-conscious in many cases are unable to find the answers they desire behind the purchases they make. (PeirsonSmith and Evans, 2017)

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Why hasn’t it been fully adopted so far?

What’s Needed?

A shift in mentality that reusing doesn’t necessarily mean a decrease in quality and greater understanding of the lasting nature of materials and products, using this as a reference to quality rather than the previous usage of a product. To re-educate consumers influencers should take a stand, on platforms such as Instagram, showing how reusing products is better than continually buying new putting emphasis on monetary incentives and planetary implications.

Convenience is key. Businesses offering products made from recycled goods or working on a ‘as a service’ model must ensure they’re able to deliver products to their customers just as conveniently as standard models. Additionally, for a true CE model, local recycling locations must become more prominent meaning next to no hassle is passed onto consumers to dispose of products properly.

Governments, organisations and influencers must continue to work to spread word of the impacts were having on our planet. Communication must be improved through transparent marketing efforts. Campaigns and labelling should represent brand’s missions and clearly show the environmental impacts behind products, allowing consumers the choice to buy given all the facts. True transparency would push society to buying from eco-friendlier or chose products produced from recycled materials rather than those constantly extracting new resources. At the point of sale, better labelling of all materials and components within products will be crucial for the success of a CE (Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2013), to allow consumers to dispose of them properly and/or businesses to reuse them.

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Government

Businesses

Why?

Explain?

Risk

To begin or convert to a circular-modelled business carries great risk and isn’t an option for small/medium businesses. The model generates high long term returns however the short term is light. As many models allow customers to only pay for their usage rather than the full product fee, revenues will be slim and gradual.

Real return will only take place as less will have to be produced due to high utilization rates, but this will take time to benefit any company.

Additionally, as it’s still an unfamiliar structure it poses more unseen risks than a traditional model.

Profit Orientated

Businesses operate primarily to benefit themselves, often keeping optimized operations secret from other brands to give them a competitive edge.

Economic Structure

The concept of a CE goes against our perception of a thriving country. Traditionally, GDP determines a country’s economic performance by monitoring the value of all goods made whereas a CE is heavily to do with the maintenance of goods meaning less is needed to be produced.

[Appendix 1, ‘economic’]

Differing Focus

Many governments and political leaders don’t put enough focus on the importance of sustainability and don’t invest in it enough as they value and put more into other matters such as education, improved infrastructure and closing the wealth gap. One person’s opinion can have a huge effect on an area’s pollution impact. For instance, at the 2016 campaign election Trump said he believed global warming was a hoax.

[Appendix 1, ‘political’]

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What’s Needed?

Strong investment in companies giving a large sum of patient capital allowing businesses to operate for the period before they see real profits.

“Sustainability is about sharing solutions and ideas.” (Baizley, 2018) Businesses must work collaboratively towards the shared aim of a sustainable world by sharing knowledge and passing on their waste to innovative brands who optimize the use of discarded materials with new ways to create products from them.

A complete economic restructure would be needed for government to allow a CE model, changing the way we look at our economy. A new measurement must be used to determine an economies current performance.

Many leaders need to be educated about a CE and the opportunities it holds. Many fail to see that in the long it could grow a nation’s workforce by about 4% while reducing greenhouse-gas emissions by up to 70% (Wijkman and Skanberg, 2018). CE generates jobs as it requires more man power but fewer to reuse, recycle or re-manufacture something than to create something new. However, even if politicians are aware of these implications many may still not follow them as advantages are unlikely to be seen in their time of running, their actions heavily reflect on them as individuals and therefore often take actions which will show benefits in the short rather than long term.

51

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•

• • •

• • • • • • • •

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• • • • • • • • • • • •

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Peirson-Smith, A. and Evans, S. (2017). Fashioning Green Words and Eco Language: An Examination of the User Perception Gap for Fashion Brands Promoting Sustainable Practices. Fashion Practice, 9(3), pp.373-397.

Prieto-Sandoval (2018). Towards a consensus on the circular economy. Journal of cleaner production, 179, pp.605-615.

Recycle for London. (2018). London’s food waste facts. [online] Available at: https://www.recycleforlondon.com/london-food-waste-facts [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Romm, J. (2018). Climate change. 2nd ed. New York, New York: Oxford University Press.

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Siegle, L. (2018). Turning the tide on plastic. The Orion Publishing Group.

Stahel, W. (2016). The Circular Economy. Nature [0028-0836], 531(7595), pp.435-438.

Stott, R., Tooze, S. and Thiruchelvam, S. (2016). Sustainability Market. Whole System Thinking : Sustainability Futures : The Immortal Brand. LS:N Global.

StyleSight Trend Board (2018). Millennials: Generation Me, Generation Free. Attitudes: Consumer.

Sweeny, G. (2015). Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil. [online] EcoWatch. Available at: https://www.ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-is-the-second-dirtiest-industry-in-the-worldnext-to-big--1882083445.html [Accessed 23 Oct. 2018].

Symons, D. (2016). Five Reasons Why Businesses Should Be Building Circular Economy into Strategy. [online] WSPglobal. Available at: https://www.wsp.com/en-GB/insights/five-reasons-why-businesses-should-be-building-circular-economy-into-strategy [Accessed 26 Oct. 2018].

The Future Laboratory (2016). Sustainability Summit Report.

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Wijkman, A. and Skanberg, K. (2018). THE CIRCULAR ECONOMY AND BENEFITS FOR SOCIETY. The Club of Rome.

Thiele, L. (2016). Sustainabiltiy. 2nd ed. Cambridge, England ; Malden, Massachusetts : Polity, pp.100163.

Yee, T. (2018). Beauty-Full Waste. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/77121/ [Accessed 29 Oct. 2018].

Zoella (2015). Huge Spring Primark Haul | Zoella. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=mCpx2M3GRH8 [Accessed 20 Oct. 2018].

53

Bibliography Reports • • • • • • • • • •

• •

• • • • • • • • •

Apsit-Livens, L. (2018). Stella McCartney takes her sustainability commitment to four new levels - 27th July 2018. [online] Mintel.com. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/907360/?highlight [Accessed 19 Oct. 2018].

Bailey, E. (2017). Waste Not, Want Not: Tackling Food Waste. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https:// www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/72046/page/3 [Accessed 29 Oct. 2018].

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Barnes, O. (2018). Recycled Fibres: Closing the Loop on Fashion. [online] Wgsn-com. Available at: https:// www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/79379/page/5 [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

Barnes, O. (2017). Material Focus: Fruit Waste. [online] Wgsn-com. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com. ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/72325/ [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

Bell, A. (2016). The Circular Economy. [online] Www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org. Available at: https:// www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/64869/page/7 [Accessed 1 Nov. 2018].

Bell, A. (2016). Future Consumer 2018. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc. org/content/board_viewer/#/63687/page/7 [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

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GLOBAL FASHION AGENDA and THE BOSTON CONSULTING GROUP (2017). Pulse of the Fashion Industry. [online] Copenhagen: Global Fashion Agenda & The Boston Consulting Group. Available at: http://globalfashionagenda.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Pulse-of-the-Fashion-Industry_2017.pdf [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

Harman, J. and Barnes, O. (2018). Sustainability Bulletin: July 2018. [online] WGSN. Available at: https:// www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/content/board_viewer/#/80189/page/5 [Accessed 6 Nov. 2018].

H&M Group (2018). FIVE GROUND BREAKING INNOVATIONS THAT HELP CREATE A WASTE-FREE FASHION INDUSTRY AWARDED BY H&M FOUNDATION. [online] Available at: https://about.hm.com/en/ media/news/general-news-2018/Five-ground-breaking-innovations-that-help-create-a-waste-free-fashion-industry-awarded-by-HM-Foundation.html [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

H&M Foundation (2018). Circular x Fashion Tech Trend Report 2018. [online] Global Change Award.

Available at: https://issuu.com/globalchangeaward/docs/circular_x_fashiontech_trend_report [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

H&M Foundation (2017). Trend Report: Future of sustainable fashion. [online] Global Change Report.

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Handcock, A. (n.d.). The Rise of the Entitled Consumer. A Fickle & Spoilt Species. Selligent.

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Shephard, R. (2018). Consumers and the Economic Outlook - Quarterly Update - UK - August 2018 Market Research Report. [online] Academic.mintel.com. Available at: http://academic.mintel.com/display/859341/ [Accessed 15 Sep. 2018].

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• • •

ity Futures : The Immortal Brand. LS:N Global.

StyleSight Trend Board (2018). Millennials: Generation Me, Generation Free. Attitudes: Consumer.

The Future Laboratory (2016). Sustainability Summit Report.

Yee, T. (2018). Beauty-Full Waste. [online] Wgsn.com. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/ board_viewer/#/77121/ [Accessed 29 Oct. 2018].

Government Reports • •

•

•

Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs and The Rt Hon Michael Gove MP (2018). Deposit return scheme in fight against plastic. [online] GOV.UK. Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/ news/deposit-return-scheme-in-fight-against-plastic [Accessed 22 Oct. 2018].

Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs, Prime Minister’s Office, 10 Downing Street, and The Rt Hon Michael Gove MP (2018). Government’s vision for a greener future launched. [online] GOV.UK. Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/governments-vision-for-a-greener-future-launched [Accessed 22 Oct. 2018].

Department For Environmental Food & Rural Affairs (2017). Digest of Waste and Resource Statistics – 2017 Edition. [online] Available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/ uploads/attachment_data/file/607416/Digest_of_Waste_and_Resource_Statistics__2017_rev.pdf [Accessed 6 Nov. 2018].

Department for Environmental Food & Rural Affairs (2018). UK Statistics on Waste. [online] York: Government Statistical Service. Available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/746642/UK_Statistics_on_Waste_statistical_notice_October_2018_FINAL.pdf [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Books • • • • • • • • •

Campbell, C. (1992). Consuming Technologies: Media and information in domestic spaces. Routledge, pp.48-66.

Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2013). Towards the circular economy : economic and business rationale for an accelerated transition.. 1st ed. Isle of Wight.

Ellen MacArthur Foundation (2013). Towards The Circular Economy: Opportunities for the consumer goods sector. 2nd ed. Isle of Wight.

Fletcher, K. and Grose, L. (2012). Fashion & sustainability. 1st ed. London: Laurence King Pub. Portney, K. (2015). Sustainability. MIT Press.

Romm, J. (2018). Climate change. 2nd ed. New York, New York: Oxford University Press.

Siegle, L. (2018). Turning the tide on plastic. The Orion Publishing Group.

Thiele, L. (2016). Sustainabiltiy. 2nd ed. Cambridge, England ; Malden, Massachusetts : Polity, pp.100163.

Wong, K. (2016). Climate change. New York 222 East 46th Street, New York: Momentum Press.

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Journal Articles • • • • • • • •

Das, S. (2018). Sharing Economy. 2018(93), pp.14-18.

Djuric Ilic, D., Eriksson, O., Ödlund (former Trygg), L. and Åberg, M. (2018). No zero burden assumption in a circular economy. Journal of Cleaner Production, 182, pp.352-362.

Grubor, A. and Milovanov, O. (2017). Brand Strategies in the Era of Sustainability. Interdisciplinary Description of Complex Systems, 15(1), pp.78-88.

Kelley, E. (1958). The Importance of Convenience in Consumer Purchasing. Journal of Marketing, 23(1), p.32.

McNeill, L. and Moore, R. (2015). Sustainable fashion consumption and the fast fashion conundrum: fashionable consumers and attitudes to sustainability in clothing choice. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 39(3), pp.212-222.

Peirson-Smith, A. and Evans, S. (2017). Fashioning Green Words and Eco Language: An Examination of the User Perception Gap for Fashion Brands Promoting Sustainable Practices. Fashion Practice, 9(3), pp.373-397.

Prieto-Sandoval (2018). Towards a consensus on the circular economy. Journal of cleaner production, 179, pp.605-615.

Stahel, W. (2016). The Circular Economy. Nature [0028-0836], 531(7595), pp.435-438.

Newspaper / pages • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anonymous (2014). Why is everyone so busy?. The Economist. [online] Available at: https://www.economist.com/christmas-specials/2014/12/20/why-is-everyone-so-busy [Accessed 7 Nov. 2018].

BBC News. (2018). Trump: Climate scientists have ‘agenda’. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/ news/world-us-canada-45859325 [Accessed 15 Oct. 2018].

BBC Newsbeat (2018). Can you be sustainable if you’re into fast fashion online?. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/newsbeat-45766366?intlink_from_url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/topics/ cx1m7zg05q3t/fashion&link_location=live-reporting-story [Accessed 12 Oct. 2018].

Bowman, L. (2018). Iceland trials reverse vending machine which pays you to recycle. Metro. [online] Available at: https://metro.co.uk/2018/05/21/iceland-trials-reverse-vending-machine-pays-recycle-7565744/?ito=cbshare [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Farmbrough, H. (2018). H&M Is Pushing Sustainability Hard, But Not Everyone Is Convinced. Forbes. [online] Available at: https://www.forbes.com/sites/heatherfarmbrough/2018/04/14/hm-is-pushing-sustainability-hard-but-not-everyone-is-convinced/#58742a897ebd [Accessed 1 Nov. 2018].

Halliday, S. (2018). Oceans Day sees raft of initiatives as consumer industries act. WGSN News. [online] Available at: https://www-wgsn-com.ntu.idm.oclc.org/news/oceans-day-sees-raft-of-initiatives-as-consumer-industries-act/ [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Harrabin, R. (2018). Fast fashion is harming the planet, MPs say. BBC News. [online] Available at: https:// www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-45745242 [Accessed 12 Oct. 2018].

Hendriksz, V. (2017). H&M accused of burning 12 tonnes of new, unsold clothing per year. Fashion Union. [online] Available at: https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/h-m-accused-of-burning-12-tonnes-of-newunsold-clothing-per-year/2017101726341 [Accessed 5 Nov. 2018].

Hooker, L. (2018). Will we soon be renting rather than buying our clothes?. BBC News. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-45630395 [Accessed 12 Oct. 2018].

Hotten, R. (2018). Why dumping rubbish is a waste of money. [online] BBC News. Available at: https:// www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-45573141 [Accessed 22 Oct. 2018].

Katie Morley (2018). High street retailers are damaging the environment with ‘fast fashion’, MPs warn. [online] The Telegraph. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2018/10/04/high-street-retailers-damaging-environment-fast-fashion-mps/ [Accessed 13 Oct. 2018].

Kottasová, I. (2018). Adidas joins the fight against plastic. CNN Money.

Muller, R. (2012). The Conversion of a Climate-Change Skeptic. The New York Times. [online] Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2012/07/30/opinion/the-conversion-of-a-climate-change-skeptic.html [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Saner, E. (2018). Cheap fashion sales threaten the planet. Could online influencers be our saviours?. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/07/cheap-fashion-threatens-planet-vloggers-online-savioursdisposable-fashion-environmental-damage [Accessed 15 Oct. 2018].

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Websites • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • •

About.hm.com. (2018). H&M group | Recycle your clothes. [online] Available at: https://about.hm.com/ en/sustainability/get-involved/recycle-your-clothes.html [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Adidas UK. (2018). Adidas and Parley. [online] Available at: https://www.adidas.co.uk/parley [Accessed 27 Oct. 2018].

Baker (n.d.). Trends in sustainability. Business Communications. [online] Available at: https://www.bakerbrand.com/wp-content/uploads/Trends-in-Sustainability.pdf [Accessed 18 Oct. 2018].

Earth Overshoot Day. (2018). Earth Overshoot Day 2018 livestream. [online] Available at: https://www. overshootday.org [Accessed 26 Oct. 2018].

Ellenmacarthurfoundation.org. (2018). Circular Economy - UK, USA, Europe, Asia & South America - The Ellen MacArthur Foundation. [online] Available at: https://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Globalfashionagenda.com. (2018). 2020 Commitment. [online] Available at: http://www.globalfashionagenda.com/commitment/# [Accessed 31 Oct. 2018].

Howard, B. (2014). Aral Sea’s Eastern Basin Is Dry for First Time in 600 Years. [online] News.nationalgeographic.com. Available at: https://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2014/10/141001-aral-sea-shrinking-drought-water-environment/ [Accessed 27 Oct. 2018].

Murray, J. (2018). Recycling revellers: Co-op to pilot UK’s first reverse vending machine at summer music festivals. [online] http://www.businessgreen.com. Available at: https://www.businessgreen.com/bg/ news/3032167/recycling-revellers-co-op-to-pilot-uks-first-reverse-vending-machine-at-summer-musicfestivals [Accessed 22 Oct. 2018].

News Desk (2018). Iceland extends reverse vending machine trial in the UK. [online] FoodBev Media.

Available at: https://www.foodbev.com/news/iceland-extends-reverse-vending-machine-trial-in-the-uk/ [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Parker, L. (2015). Ocean Trash: 5.25 Trillion Pieces and Counting, but Big Questions Remain. [online] News.nationalgeographic.com. Available at: https://news.nationalgeographic.com/ news/2015/01/150109-oceans-plastic-sea-trash-science-marine-debris/ [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Recycle for London. (2018). London’s food waste facts. [online] Available at: https://www.recycleforlondon.com/london-food-waste-facts [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Sweeny, G. (2015). Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil. [online] EcoWatch. Available at: https://www.ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-is-the-second-dirtiest-industry-in-the-worldnext-to-big--1882083445.html [Accessed 23 Oct. 2018].

Symons, D. (2016). Five Reasons Why Businesses Should Be Building Circular Economy into Strategy. [online] WSPglobal. Available at: https://www.wsp.com/en-GB/insights/five-reasons-why-businesses-should-be-building-circular-economy-into-strategy [Accessed 26 Oct. 2018]. trendone.com. (2018). Mega-Trend: Sustainability. [online] Available at: https://www.trendone.com/en/ trend-universe/mega-trends/mega-trend-detail/sustainability.html [Accessed 1 Oct. 2018]. trendone.com. (2018). Trends 2018. [online] Available at: https://www.trendone.com/en/trend-universe/ trends-2018.html [Accessed 26 Jul. 2018].

Worldoceansday.org. (2018). World Oceans Day. [online] Available at: http://www.worldoceansday.org [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Documentaries •

Stacey Dooley Investigates: Fashions Dirty Secrets, (2018). [TV programme] 1: BBC.

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Podcasts • • • •

Gilding, P. (2018). The Earth is full. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=DZT6YpCsapg [Accessed 15 Oct. 2018].

Green, M. (2015). How We Can Make the World a Better Place by 2030. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o08ykAqLOxk [Accessed 18 Oct. 2018].

Kalra, A. (2018). 3 creative ways to fix fashion’s waste problem. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeVU2Ff4ffc&list=PLOGi5-fAu8bHfBh2JmjYwbhTz0AiAy8pO [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Lee, S. (2011). Grow your own clothes. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=3p3-vl9VFYU&list=PLOGi5-fAu8bHfBh2JmjYwbhTz0AiAy8pO&index=3 [Accessed 2 Nov. 2018].

Press Release •

Unilever (2017). Report shows a third of consumers prefer sustainable brands. [online] Available at: https://www.unilever.com/news/press-releases/2017/report-shows-a-third-of-consumers-prefer-sustainable-brands.html [Accessed 7 Nov. 2018].

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