Stage 1 Project by Emily Kemp

Emily Kemp N0684707

Word count: 7657

This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and secondary resources of information have been proper attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook.

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Will the growing allure towards experiences over products close the gap between consumer attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours?

CONTENTS

1 Introduction

Fashion in context Issues of the fashion industry

4 6

4 The attitute-behaviour gap

Case study: Stella McCartney

7 Methodology

Secondary Primary Analysis Responses and limitation

31 32 38 39

2 Rationale

3 8

Objectives

The experience economy

Happiness generation

Social influence

Key Findings

Total transparency Sustainability as secondary You are what you buy Experiential product purchasing

44 46 48 51

Conclusion

10 Recommendations

Transparency as industry standard Better marketing of value for money Make experiences sharable

59 60 61

11 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

Appendices

References

139

Initial Methodology Survey questions Survey responses Focus group base questions Focus Group 1 Focus Group 2 Focus Group 3 Interview 1 Interview 2 Email response 1 Email response 2 Email response 3 Instagram poll Store observations Maslowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hierarchy of needs Buying process PESTLE analysis Issues of the fashion industry Ethical Clearance Consent forms

64 70 73 78 80 85 94 100 103 107 109 110 113 114 116 118 120 124 128 130

References Bibliography List of images

140 142 147

INTRODUCTION

“Humans have only been around for 200,000 years, a tiny blip in the 4.5 billion years of our planet’s history. Yet we have had a greater impact on the Earth than any other species.” (WWF 2018)

Societies overarching stance, today, widely accept that human activities have vastly contributed to planetary issues. “There is a 95% certainty that we are responsible for global warming,” (Ecotextile News 2018) and in turn to issues such as rising water levels and land mass destruction. This, in addition to things such as deforestation and excessive littering of our lands and seas have contributed to wildlife populations having declined by 60% in just over 40 years (WWF 2018). Earth Overshoot Day has additionally highlighted that we’re using 70% more resources than our Earth can renew each year (2018), issues which shall only continue to rise with population growth, set to reach 9 billion by 2050 (Baker n.d.).

However, a gap is emerging between consumer’s attitudes and actual behaviours regarding sustainability, as they say one thing yet act a different way. This report shall review this phenomenon, primarily from an environmental perspective, for millennials purchasing fashion. Generational age ranges vary slightly from source to source but for the sake of this report it is those born between 1982-2000 (StyleSight Trend Board n.d.), now making them 18-36 (as of when this report was begun in 2018), who are being referenced. A simultaneous consumer shift; converting preferences from products to experiences, shall additionally be reviewed. Possible future impacts of the two in cohesion shall be discussed in order to answer the research question and make suggestions of how best to interlink the individual concepts to progress to a more sustainable future.

With these issues at critical point, there’s never been so much awareness and there is now a drastic call for change across the globe. Shifts by governments, brands and consumers alike are progressively occurring, all of which are essential in order to restrict the damage we’re inflicting on our planet.

FASHION IN CONTEXT

Humanityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s relationship between the world, its resources, and fashion has already witnessed substantial changes through the centuries. From felting techniques which caused mercury poisoning (Fashioned From Nature 2019) to the excessive use of ivory and fur, needlessly killing thousands of animals, there are many practices now widely, if not completely, deemed unacceptable in British culture. On the contrary, history shows a greater sense of emotional connection to garments as people owned fewer items and therefore would treat them as valuable objects, caring for and maintaining them as appropriate. The 19th century brought about a new, mechanised era for the industry. Machinery and synthetic dyes made it possible to produce garments in a shorter time frame and at a fraction of the cost (Fashioned From Nature 2019). With increased supply came increased demand, to create a new equilibrium point of an exceedingly higher quantity being exchanged yet at a diminished

In order to eliminate its detrimental level of effects on the planet in the future, the industry must review its â&#x20AC;&#x153;take, make, wasteâ&#x20AC;? model [Appendix 18, Materials] and materials and garments must be viewed as valuable again. Advancements have been implemented over the last 20 years, reducing the impacts inflicted per garment, however the net impact of the industry is still increasing as efficiency gains are outweighed by the ever-growing scale of consumption (Fletcher 2019), having nearly doubled in the last 15 years (Laville 2017). More recent measures have brought about things such as: innovative materials, maintenance guidance campaigns, product life extension or recycling of unwanted garments [Appendix 18]. Yet, these are still of relatively small scale within the UK market, now worth over ÂŁ60 billion (Mintel 2018), due to high costs, uneducated consumers, consumer habits and a lack of knowledge [Appendix 18].

price point. This push has continued through the decades, with prices plummeting by more than 26% in the first decade of the 21st century (Fletcher 2019), resulting in people no longer valuing clothing as they once did. Today, the fashion industry is the second dirtiest industry worldwide (Sweeny 2015). Brands operate with business models which focus on pushing as much stock as possible. The traditional 2 key seasons a year, in many cases, has been eradicated and replaced by a constant influx of new products. In the case of high-street retailer Zara, up to twice a week. In turn, old merchandise is heavily discounted, and customers feel obliged to constantly replace their wardrobes in order to comply with the latest trends, consequently causing catastrophic amounts ending up as waste. Last year, 3/5 items in UK landfill had arrived there within under a year of ownership (Harrabin 2018) showing the resulting remarkably low utilisation rates of garments at present.

Ultimately, consumers must be part of the change in the industry by altering the way they buy and consume garments if planetary impacts are to be restricted in the future.

ISSUES OF THE Treatment and dyeing of textiles accountable for 10% global carbon emissions and 20% freshwater pollution Pay and conditions for workers continue to be an issue

Production

Materials

Transport & Retail

<1% materials used in clothing is recycled Excessive amounts of water, energy and pesticides used in the farming of conventional cotton farming

Garment production spans the globe, a single product often travelling between 5 or more countries

FASHION INDUSTRY [Appendix 16]

Up to 82% energy used in a garments life cycle is during laundering Microfibres are released into our water system

Use

Disposal 235 million items went to UK landfill last year

RATIONALE â&#x20AC;&#x153;Consumption is the driving force behind the unprecedented planetary change we are witnessing, through the increased demand for energy, land and water.â&#x20AC;? (WWF 2018)

{ This report shall focus on consumer behaviour as consumption is arguably the primary cause of our planetary issues as producers will, justifiably, respond by supplying to meet demands; something that is recognized by The Department of the Environment (Transport and the Regions, 1998a:4) (see Hobson 2002). “Over the next 5 years millennials will represent $1.3 trillion+ indirect spending power,” (YPulse 2017) making them huge influencers of the future of society as brands will appropriately prioritise their needs. This, along with the fact that they value spending on “good times” rather than on goods, differs them from prior generations (StyleSight Trend Board n.d.) and makes them the most susceptible to the experience economy. This, along with the fact that they are the most willing to pay more for sustainable products out of any generation, with almost 75% willing (The Nielsen Company 2015), means the research question is more likely to be answered as true.

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The attitude-behaviour gap and emergence of the experience economy are highly relevant in today’s society and have been well discussed by a wide selection of authors. However, to date, the two areas have had very little consideration in relation to one another. Therefore, the overall purpose of this report is to review the current implementations of the two as individual concepts and analyse whether the rise of the experience economy could be used to the close the gap in millennials attitudes, towards sustainability, and their actual purchasing behaviour when buying fashion merchandise.

AIMS & OBJECTIVES 10

To understand the gap between consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours. To understand consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buying habits and considerations behind their purchases. To analyse consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s understanding of and attitudes towards sustainability, ethics and global issues and their expectations of fashion brands. To review what brands are already doing in terms of sustainable practices and their potential to do more.

To investigate the societal move towards experiences over purchases of products.

To explore customers current preferences between experiences and products. To review what brands are doing to implement more experiences and their justification in doing so.

THE

ATTITUDE BEHAVIOUR GAP This chapter shall review the existing theories to the existence and root cause of the attitude-behaviour gap among millennials when buying fashion apparel.

Sustainability means to: “meet the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs.” (Baker n.d.) Economic, environmental and social agenda must be considered and benefited in some way for an action to be considered sustainable.

Consumers care more about the environment There is a growing global consumer segment concerned with environmental issues (Fotea and Fotea 2012) and who accept their individual responsibility due to increased awareness of the impacts behind their purchases (The Future Laboratory 2016). Correspondingly, Veselinovska, Gokik and Veselinovski (2011) claim that society is becoming more collectively conscious, realising the interconnectivity of the ‘hierarchy living system’ and are acknowledging the importance of considering world problems rather than exclusively their own; even if they fail to act on the matter. Although this study may be biased, as it evaluates the importance of globally educating these values, their conclusions align with many other researchers. Valor (2008) highlighted the agreement among many existing studies (Thøgersen 1999; Shaw and Shiu 2003; Vermeir and Verbeke 2005) regarding the influence of the perceived efficacy on responsible consumption (for Danish, UK and Belgium consumers); in other words, consumers say that they would change their consumption behaviour if they believed it would contribute to solving an issue. YPulse (2017) confirmed millennial’s stance to be a solution to the issue of overconsumption as the consensus of their research showed, for this generation, “owning a lot of things isn’t as cool as it once was;” attitudes have shifted.

Demand for transparency Due to this shift, ‘Total Transparency’ has emerged as a mega trend (Trend One 2018), as consumers demand to know all personal and all global impacts behind a product. Brands are progressively realising the increasing value of sustainable attributes (Grubor and Milovanov 2017) as they can strengthen competitive advantage both in the long term, with reduced material, energy and water waste costs (Martin and Schouten 2014), and in the short term, with cohesive marketing of these practices. Successful implementation of both can provide a perceived differentiation point to consumers, leading to an increased market share. This will prove crucial in the coming years as, Fashion Revolution’s 2018 Consumer Survey Report showed that, over 70% of consumers (across Germany, the UK, France, Italy and Spain) want more information and data available on fashion brand’s packaging/labelling.

What is the gap? In 2011, Markkula and Moisander stated that: “In spite of the initial optimism and enthusiasm about the transformative potential of sustainable consumption (Fuchs and Lorek 2005), the actual progress made in changing people’s consumption patterns has been modest (Thøgersen and Crompton 2009).” This, along with several other studies, such as that by The Nielsen Company (2015) recognise that despite (26%) people saying they would alter their buying behaviour, to help the planet, a substantial shift in actual purchasing patterns have not yet occurred as only few (10%) say they have before, meaning a gap exists between their attitudes and their buying behaviours.

Why does it exist? The first issue to arise is confusion regarding terms used to define this shift. Terms such as ‘sustainable’, ‘green’ and ‘eco-friendly’ are used interchangeably between sources despite often referring to the same idea as “there is no industry standard” (Lundblad and Davies 2015). This report shall use the term ‘sustainable’. ‘Sustainable consumption’ “loosely defines as ‘doing more with less’,” (Hobson 2002) and encompasses several other concepts such as ethical, fair trade, organic and slow culture. Though progress has been made, many businesses still experience confusion over what sustainability means for them or how to implement it themselves (The Economist, Economist Intelligence Unit 2008) and as a result, communication efforts are bewildering and often untrustworthy. Markkula and Moisander (2011), Valor (2008), Hobson (2002) and The Economist (Economist Intelligence Unit 2008) all recognise the lack of, or misinformed, consumer knowledge regarding sustainable consumption. They suggest that they’re unable to make an informed decision as other parties fail to provide the relevant information. In the fashion industry, consumers may exclusively consider the issue of overconsumption (and the resulting level of disposed garments) but will fail to see the issues of excessive

inputs (such as water, pesticides or energy) at every stage of a product’s life [Appendix 18], as brands fail to offer this information. To aid consumer’s decisions, every stage of a product’s life should be ‘totally transparent’. Controversially, it’s suggested that the reason people don’t buy more sustainably is because they value other aspects, such as price, design or convenience, more highly. Joegens (2006) construed this to be true when examining the lower end millennials (18-26) within the UK and Germany. Her research revealed that “a minimal number of consumers read a label when they are looking for clothing,” showing material content (production aspects) and means of upkeep and disposal were not considerations to the majority of those observed in the study. Even Valor (2008), who recognizes the lack of information issue, agrees that consumers don’t want other factors to suffer in order to purchase responsibly. This can be explained by the distinguishing attributes of the brain’s 2 hemispheres. The left rationally regards sustainable aspects, as well as things such as price and durability, but ultimately the right hemisphere will overrule, and consumers will make a purchase purely because they ‘like’ an item; an emotional connection dominates.

Stella McCartney is a business woman, designer and environmental activist but she says that of the 3, fashion comes first:

“It has to, you see. Because the only way for me to start the conversation I want to start is by making a product that you want to buy and that you are going to spend your hard-earned money on. If the product is rubbish, then there is no conversation to be had.” Stella McCartney (Cartney-Morley 2018)

Stella recognises the fact that consumers won’t buy her products purely because ‘they’re sustainable’. She must make them stylish and trendy as to engage an emotional draw, offering sustainable information then acting as a rationalisation for the purchase. Furthermore, the brand’s ‘Clevercare’ campaign encourages customers to “love your clothes and make them last longer.” (Stella McCartney 2019) This educates consumers of how to better treat their clothing while relaying a message that the brand’s garments are made to last a lifetime consequently making their high prices feel like better value for money to the consumer. Their high durability, in comparison to fast fashion, becomes prominent.

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Existing research concludes that the attitude-behaviour gap may exist due to consumer confusion, a lack of production information provided by brands or that consumers donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want other aspects to suffer in order to purchase sustainability. As there is no clear causation between the 3, further examination will take place during primary research in order to better understand millennials stance.

THE

EXPERIENCE ECONOMY This chapter shall explore the emergence of the experience economy and consider it as a motivator for consumer behaviour as to understand why itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s become more prominent in recent years.

What is the experience economy? The term ‘experience economy’ was first coined by B. James Pine II and James H. Gilmore in 1998 (2011) and highlights the next industrial revolution (and how our wants and needs have developed through the decades): beginning from the agrarian economy (commodities), to the industrial economy (goods), the service economy (services), and now to the experience economy (experiences). The experience economy addresses previously neglected issues: the role of aesthetic products, multi-sensory dimensions of communication, time budgeting in pursuit of pleasure, product-related fantasies and imagery, feelings arising from consumption and the role of play in providing enjoyment and fun (Holbrook and Hirschman 1982). It seems as society develops, we demand more.

The experience economy today? Today, society prefer to splash their cash on experiences more than on products, as 74% millennials would agree (YPulse 2017). The increasing competitive intensity of the highly saturated fashion industry means brands are constantly looking for ways to differentiate (Pine and Gilmore 2011). Recently this has been implemented through presenting more than just shopping within retail spaces. This may be the inclusion of games, salons, MUAs, ‘make your own’ facilities, sensory immersions or even implementations of the latest technologies, such as augmented reality (AR), virtual reality (VR) or artificial intelligence (AI).

[see Appendix 15]

Hierarchy of needs Those who show the greatest conformity to the experience economy are those of higher income and higher educational levels, which here we’ll define as a higher ‘social ranking’. This was found by Van Boven and Gilovich’s (2003) as their research showed that these citizens are most likely to opt for experiential offerings. Lower social ranking individuals require a utilitarian approach to purchasing as resources must be allocated rationally and sparingly (Van Boven and Gilovich) to achieve even basic needs [Appendix 15]. Those

of higher social rankings don’t have the same monetary concerns and therefore may allocate their resources to achieve the highest level of happiness and reach self-fulfilment; through experiences (Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014).

HAPPINESS GENERATION â&#x20AC;&#x153;Happiness is as much about how we look forward to and look back on an event as it is about the event itself.â&#x20AC;? (The Happiness Halo report 2018)

ATTENTION

PRE-PURCHASE

Gilovich (2003) (see Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014) found that the overall enduring satisfaction of experiential purchases is higher than a purchase of a possession. This can be explained by reviewing the individual stages within the buying process, at all of which a more positive outcome is presented when purchasing an experience. This is particularly important to the fashion industry as the sector heavily relies on hedonism to sell its goods (Sethna and Blythe 2016).

Attention

DURING

POST-PURCHASE

When considering and justifying a purchase [Appendix 16], consumers will construe the desirability of possible outcomes (Beach and Connolly 2005), judging which purchase is most likely to help them become their desired self (Sethna and Blythe 2016). For example, which will grant them the highest level of happiness. Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich (2014) found that the simple act of waiting is more positive for experiences than that endowed when waiting for possessions. In their studies, participants showed greater anticipation for experiences and reported a universally more pleasant time resulting in greater levels of excitement and a better mood meaning a lower level of impatience was encountered.

Pre-purchase Consumers may unconsciously recall memories of previous purchases and opt for an experiential offering due to their previous, pleasant pre-purchase experience as anticipation can become more enjoyable than consumption itself, as found by Raghunathan and Mukherji (2003) (see Sethna and Blythe 2016).

During During the purchase, experiences allow for greater social connection and evoke fewer social comparisons (see Chapter 6).

Post-purchase But, the most prominent differentiating aspects, of happiness generated, occur postpurchase. Unlike material goods, experiences provide a lingering memory to any who engage in an event. This was recognised by Pine and Gilmore (2011) who even highlighted a ‘memorable aspect’ to be the distinguishing factor to what classifies as an experience rather than a service. Van Boven and Gilovich (2003) support this as they highlight that people derive greater pleasure from thinking about experiences than material purchases. Remembering an experience can remind people of a more desirable or happier version of themselves; how they felt when undertaking the experience. Moreover, these fond memories provide us with a means for conversation in the form of stories meaning we’re more likely to talk about them as opposed to possessions (Kumar & Gilovich 2014) (see Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014), which adds to their perceived valuation in the form of a ‘social currency’ (YPulse and Youth Sight 2017).

Sustainability of experiences It is vital here to note that when viewing experiences and products as two distinct concepts, one cannot be considered more sustainable than the other as they each encompass a full spectrum of sustainable to devastatingly, destroying items. For example, the UK festival industry produces 19,778 tonnes CO2 and 23,500 tonnes of waste a year (Powerful Thinking 2016). Furthermore, environmental issues of sporting events have been recognised by authors such as Collins, Jones and Munday (2009) showing that experiential purchases, such as attending festivals or sporting events, can be as environmentally damaging as the consumption of products.

Nike is an impeccable example of a brand optimizing their retail space through incorporation of the experience economy. Their London store sets the tone with a DJ located by the entrance playing a mix of urban/rap music, instantly engaging customers through an up-beat setting. Floors are themed in order to aid consumers shopping experience through simplicity; products being grouped together in terms of corresponding sports allowing athletes to quickly recognise their area of interest. The store additionally engages all visitors through the inclusion of interactive, fair-groundlike games such as penalty shoot-offs, allowing customers to test the brand’s football boots. The games are displayed across large screens encouraging spectators and a shareable experience as it’s not only the player who engages with the game. Furthermore, Nike make use of the ongoing trend of customisation (trendone. com 2019) through options to make your own jersey and customising your footwear with NikeId, which can be done either online or instore. In the London store, NikeId Direct Studio uses the latest technology, of video mapping, to allow customers to see their creations come to life right in front of their eyes, thereby creating value by fusing technology with reality (Pine and Gilmore 2014). Designers are now able to see their design as a 3D, physical product before finalising and able to collect their personalised piece within just as hour, a huge advancement on the prior month-long waiting time (Asmar 2017). Nike are optimising customer’s satisfaction of their finished product while creating a memorable experience enhancing a positive memory and therefore connection to the brand. Greater happiness is derived through the interactive experience than had a customer simply gone in to collect a shoe they’d designed online, challenging the struggling battle for retail, online vs offline [Appendix 17, technological].

{ Chapter conclusion A shift in preferences from possessions to experiences is occurring. Experiential purchases provide a greater level of enduring satisfaction and happiness at every stage of the buying process in the forms of anticipation, less social comparisons, memories and stories [Appendix 16].

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However, to answer the research question experiences and products shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be viewed as separate entities as they have the potential to be equally damaging to the environment meaning the shift from one to the other would not close the attitude-behaviour gap. Instead, experiences should be viewed as a means to enhance the purchase of products, such as Nike has implemented with their NikeId Direct Studio. Brands are only just beginning to realise the potential of implementing the experience economy into their retail spaces. Therefore, if sustainable brands were among the first to successfully make use of the move, it could be used to prompt a shift in consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s buying behaviours. This shall be explored in primary research.

SOCIAL INFLUENCE This chapter shall review the importance of social influence on buying behaviour and its potential to alter purchase decisions. This includes the influence of social media, a key consideration for this report as millennials, along with Gen Zers, are the heaviest users of the platforms (Ons.gov.uk 2018).

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“In many cases, group influence is instrumental in determining an individual’s buying behaviour;” (Evans, Foxall and Jamal 2009) what people think they want and actions they believe are their own can be a result of people surrounding them. This can be a conscious influence, by seeking guidance from others, or unconscious, through a need for recognition and approval from others, addressing the psychological levels in Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs [Appendix 15]. Maslow (2006) realised that different people may undertake a variety of tasks or events in order to fulfil a matching, underlying need but all may never be aware of the real cause. A desire for social approval is an example of this.

Social media For millennials, a need for social approval can be demonstrated through their social media usage. When doing something they deem ‘really cool’ 68% 13-34-year-olds will post about it (YPulse and Youth Sight 2017). These platforms allow users to share their lives and opinions with their friends and followers. Writing a status, tweet or posting a picture acts as a form of self-expression which allows for quick response by their peers; an easy means for instant gratification [Appendix 15]. Sheldon and Bryant (2016) found a positive relationship between people who use Instagram for ‘coolness, creative purposes, and surveillance’ and those who score highly in interpersonal interactions. This implies that either the highest socialites are ‘better’ at posting online (by assessing

their feed and successfully judging their own experiences’ ‘shareability’) or that posting in such a way helps them generate mass appeal (by posting in a likable, cool and creative way) consequently generating more and/or stronger social connections. Judgments can be made from images posted which in turn can generate or hinder the acquisition of social approval. Balch (2014) supports this as she claims people only post their best photos, showing a need for social approval on these platforms.

Furthermore, millennials highly value these platforms. In fact, “1/3 would prioritize social media freedom over salary when considering a job.” (StyleSight Trend Board n.d.). It’s highly important to them to be able to post what and how they want to in order to create their ideal online persona. Some (41%) take it a step further, undertaking events or visiting certain places just to be able to post an image of doing so (YPulse and Youth Sight 2017). This signifies that, for many social media is no longer a place just for sharing memories and encounters but can shape individuals lives. Posting on platforms such as Instagram even releases a higher dose of oxytocin, a “feelgood hormone”, than in-person interactions (YPulse and Youth Sight) meaning, in short bursts, social media posting can in fact make people happy. Controversially, such control over selfperception can aid a narcissistic trait, as it provides a means to obtain social status and attention (Campbell 2016), which typically carries a negative stereotype among society (Van Boven and Gilovich 2003). Similarly, posting images of newly purchased products can be viewed as flaunting its monetary value.

Experiences

Fashion industry

However, when posting about things we’ve done rather than one’s self or physical purchases, this association may be avoided as there is a common misconception to what ‘materialism’ entails. Many believe it solely relates to a strong connection to products when it too can relate to experiences. Sharing experiences is more associated with ‘having a good time’, rather than flaunting monetary value, and evoke fewer social comparisons (Carter and Gilovich 2010) (see Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014), therefore appearing less materialistic. This contributes to experiences holding a higher social valuation than tangible products. YPulse’s research (2017) aligns with this as they found 94% of millennials would rather share a picture of something they’ve done as opposed to an item they’ve bought; showing sharing an experience holds more social value, and will acquire greater approval and gratification, than sharing a possession.

Lundblad and Davies (2015) said that “fashion consumption is a need for social acceptance.” They theorise that fashion essentially has no other reasoning than to gain approval from others. Considering that social media is a means for gaining approval, this can be supported by the fact that fast fashion has been catapulted by social media sites, predominantly Instagram. “Nearly a quarter of 16- to 24-year-olds said they would only be pictured in an item one to three times on social media before discarding it.” (Siegle 2018) They feel a need to match the behaviours of top social media influencers, who continuously appear to wear something new and attempting to always be some of the early adopters of the latest trends in order to appear ‘cool’ to their peers. This corresponds with Campbell’s theory (1992) of our ‘desire for new’, a constant need to satisfy an emotional drive for the latest fad. It is this desire which has led to the success of new affordable, e-commerce giants, such as PrettyLittleThing and Nasty Gal who have reported a 50% rise in sales in the six months up to August 2018 (BBC Newsbeat 2018).

Several questions arise from this interrelationship: whether people make judgements on one another on what they wear and buy, or whether this is common misconceived fear and, more specifically, if people do or will judge one another on the sustainable practices behind their purchases. These issues will be explored through primary research.

Chapter conclusion “Consumer behaviour is an extremely complex phenomenon influenced by both internal and external factors.” (Fotea and Fotea 2012) Experiences have the potential to be used to benefit both internal factors, through a greater level of happiness derived, and external factors, through greater social acceptance and less narcissistic association, therefore avoiding negative judgment by peers (Van Boven and Gilovich 2003). Social media can be used to instead offer instant gratification through the element of likes and comments, contributing to the fulfilment of an individual’s self-actualisation needs [Appendix 15]. Millennials highly value these platforms, therefore sustainable brand should consider the ‘instagrammability of their offerings as to present a more desirable experience, of which some millennials may attend just to post about it (YPulse and Youth Sight 2017).

METHODOLOGY Secondary A variety of books, journal articles, reports, presentations, newspapers, magazines, websites and the Fashioned From Nature exhibition at the V&A museum contributed to secondary research. As presented, this combination of sources was used to investigate existing research and theories regarding knowledge and attitudes towards sustainability, buying behaviours and rationale and social influence as a purchasing motivator. Key limitations to research have been identified throughout to identify gaps in knowledge or unreliable areas needed to be further examined within primary research.

SURVEY “Surveys are the primary means of obtaining information about consumers’ motives, attitudes, and preferences.” (Malhotra 2012, p160)

Where and who An online survey, created via Google Forms, shall be posted, gaining a minimum of 100 responses from people aged 18-36, via multiple social media sites. Conduction online reaches a wider audience, will eliminate the possibility of skipped or missed questions (Kress, 1988) and will simplify the analysis process.

What The first section shall gather respondent’s basic classification information to allow analysis to take place reviewing if any demographical aspects, such as specific age or gender, correlate to certain attitudes or behaviours. The questions following shall investigate attitudinal and behavioural aspects of respondents including their understanding of sustainability, buying behaviours and purchase motivators, from their point of view.

“What people say is not always what they actually do.” (Malhotra 2012, p161)

1 2

Potential risks

Risk minimisation

It can be difficult to accurately recall all self-activity (Malhotra 2012) and review the logic behind our own actions.

The survey will reveal a consensus of consumers attitudes, but other methods will be used in conjunction to validate or disprove and fill gaps in respondent’s self-perception and better analyse behaviours.

“Surveys are reliant on the participant being truthful and knowledgeable about their behaviour” (Sumner, 2017), however inaccurate responses are often collected due to respondents feeling pressured to give the ‘right’ answer.

Respondents shall remain anonymous eliminating an aspect of judgment. Comparing findings from other methods shall additionally eliminate possible anomalies.

A major drawback to surveys is the limitation to answers respondents can give. They cannot expand on their point nor can an interviewer pursue greater depth on key points (Kress 1988).

This shall be one of the first methods conducted in order to develop a basic understanding of millennials. Questions remaining or areas discovered which require further investigation will be conducted within focus groups.

Open ended questions “usually result in poor replies in self-completion questionnaires.” (Hague and Jackson 1998, p.67)

Open-ended questions requiring a long response will be reserved for face-to-face interactions.

FOCUS GROUPS Where and who At least 2 focus groups of 5/6 participants, within the 18-36 boundary, will take place.

What They’ll play a crucial role in developing deeper understanding, rather than measuring, consumer behaviour, purchase motivators and expectations of fashion brands which will aid the understanding of the attitude-behaviour gap as well as why the experience economy has emerged. The method shall provide rich findings from real consumers, “the group interaction providing a wider range of information, insights, and ideas than do individual interviews. The comments of one person can trigger unexpected reactions of others,” (Malhotra 2012, p.189) therefore acting as an ‘exploratory tool’ (Hague 2003, p.61) as initial question could be taken in any direction.

Potential risks

Risk minimisation

Similar to surveys, focus groups can evoke untrue responses. Particularly during attitudinal questions respondents frequently answer according to how they think the interviewer might like them to respond, or, relating to Nancarrow et al.’s ‘bandwagon theory’ (2004), how they think ‘most’ people would feel about the issue.” (Evans, Foxall and Jamal 2009, p.109) ‘The bandwagon effect’ is commonly adopted regarding the topic of sustainability as people will provide the ‘good’ response (e.g. saying they buy green), due it being the socially accepted answer, as opposed to offering the full truth.

Projective techniques shall be used as “the best way to obtain the true feelings and attitudes of people is to enable them to indirectly present data about themselves by speaking through others.” (Kress 1988) Groups will be made up of primary friendship groups therefore making participants feel less judged and more likely to answer truthfully as they’re likely to hold a lot of the same values and norms.

Non-uniform questions could give different responses making comparison difficult and potentially unreliable.

The focus group shall be semi-structured following an initial set of questions to be followed on by where the group takes it, building on the points they make.

INDIVIDUAL INTERVIEWS (INDUSTRY EXPERTS) Where and who Individual interviews will take place, where possible, asking a similar set of question to that of focus groups to obtain a different take on the matters being questioned.

What “Depth interviews can uncover deeper insights about underlying motives than focus groups can.” (Malhotra 2012, p.194) This shall be particularly useful when questioning industry experts as a rich conversation encapsulating both industry knowledge, regarding sustainable fashion, and individual opinion can take place.

Potential risks

Risk minimisation

These types of interviews can be expensive or difficult to find willing participants fitting of the desired quota (Malhotra 2012). In this case, industry experts may not be locally available nor have the time available to take part.

While attempting to find participants to conduct interviews with, emails with identical starting questions shall be sent to other experts found via LinkedIn. Although this restricts the aspect of a flowing conversation, limiting responses, it shall provide information and views from a wider selection of sources, therefore making final conclusions more reliable as individual biases may be identified.

“The data obtained is difficult to analyse and interpret.” (Malhotra 2012, p.194)

(See p.38)

OBSERVATIONS (STORE) Where and who Observations will take place in stores retailing clothing. Any aspect within the store deemed worthy will be noted, such as campaign promotion or implementations of the latest technology, along with customers interaction with them.

What “Observational data provide insight into what behaviour is occurring but not why.” (Malhotra 2012 p.236) Consumer behaviours regarding what people are looking at within stores, such as sustainable information, shall not be noted. Secondary research gave a unanimous conclusion that, for whatever reason, sustainability isn’t a key motivator for millennials. It is already clear what behaviour is taking place, but this report wishes to understand why, therefore making these observations unnecessary.

Potential risks

Risk minimisation

Stores may have not yet implemented the experience economy which would deem this method uninformative.

The stores visited will be within London as the most likely destination to be implementing the experience economy as, England’s capital, it is a highly tourist-based area.

INSTAGRAM POLL Where and who An Instagram poll will be posted to gather at least 100 responses per question.

What Questions presented shall gather people’s opinions regarding social media platforms via a ‘yes’ or ‘no’ poll, therefore gathering quantitative data which may quickly be analysed. Presenting these questions on Instagram eliminates the possibility that those being asked don’t use any social media platform.

1 2

Potential risks

Risk minimisation

Instagram polls are only active for 24 hours making it more of a risk that not enough responses will be received in order to make the result reliable.

If under 100 responses are collected the poll will be disregarded.

There is no way to restrict who may respond in terms of age etc.

The Instagram page on which the poll shall be posted has followers almost all of which are in the 18-36 desired bracket meaning although anomalies won’t be able to be identified and removed, the result will still be reliable enough to be conclusive.

ANALYSIS QUANTITATIVE Through this method, quantitative data will be collected allowing for statistical analysis after accumulation.

QUALITATIVE For qualitative data gathered, via focus groups and in-depth interviews, thematic analysis shall be used. Including forms of quantification, word searches, deviant case analyses, and associated with grounded theory and phenomenology (Guest, MacQueen and Namey 2012), thematic analysis is a method commonly used to identify patterns and codes within research. It additionally takes into account the issues of working with a mixed methods project meaning analysis across group and individual interviews will be coherent.

RESPONSES & LIMITATIONS SURVEY 128 respondents Aged 18-36 73 female (57%) 55 male (43%)

In collecting responses 3 were collected by participants above the required age range, therefore, these were removed before analysis took place.

FOCUS GROUPS

Group 1

Group 2

Group 3

4 males, 1 female

5 females, 1 male

4 males, 1 female

Aged: 20/21/22

Aged: 20/21

Aged: 19/20/21

Interested in part with fashion but perceptually unaware of the extent of the issues of the industry

Highly interested in the fashion industry and perceptually knowledgeable

Mixed perceptual interest and knowledge of the fashion industry Group located in a different region

The participants within focus groups ages range between 19-22, a small section between the 18-36 demographic being reviewed, meaning results collected via this method and the survey may not be as representative of the older end of millennials.

INDIVIDUAL INTERVIEWS Face-to-face interview 1

Face-to-face interview 2

Naomi Braithwaite

Tim Cooper

Senior lecturer of Fashion Marketing, Management and Communication at Nottingham Trent University

Professor for Product Design at Nottingham Trent University, Head of the Sustainable Consumption and Clothing Sustainability research groups

Email response 1 Email response 2 Email response 3 Eva Dragoeva

Alessandro Valle

Jennifer Revell

Sustainable Fashion Designer

Founder of SHIFTING LONDON â&#x20AC;&#x201C; an Urban Sustainable Fashion & Eco-Friendly Cosmetics Brand

Sustainable Fashion Specialist

Some answers given by Alessandro Valle were disregarded as they were very restricted and, in some cases, self-promoting, giving very little solid knowledge.

OBSERVATIONS Observations only took place in 4 stores due to time restraints. They took place just after the Christmas period meaning engagement with experience-based implementations were minimal. For this reason, interactions werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t reviewed.

INSTAGRAM POLL 135-137 respondents

The majority of survey and Instagram poll respondents are likely to be of a similar age (20-21) with more females than males and a proportion with similar backgrounds due to the connected profiles of the account both were posted on.

KEY FINDINGS Total transparency Sustainability as secondary You are what you buy Experiential product purchases

TOTAL TRANSPARNECY

The need for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;total transparencyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; from brands was recognised across qualitative primary research [Appendix 5 Participant 2 and 5; Appendix 6 Participant 3; Appendix 8, 9 and 10] and secondary sources (Markkula and Moisander 2011; Valor 2008; Hobson 2002; The Economist, Economist Intelligence Unit 2008). Correspondingly, the online survey found that only 4.7% of respondents were aware of sustainable practices in place by their most shopped at brands [Appendix 3], showing a need for advancements and improved communication from brands to consumers.

SUSTAINABILITY AS SECONDARY

Other factors as priority Even if all information was at millennial’s disposal it’s unlikely that a significant segment would alter their buying behaviour as they are unwilling to let other aspects suffer (Joegens 2006; Valor 2008). This was proven by giving shocking statistics to focus groups [Appendix 4 Food for thought] to which all participants were stunned. Despite their initial reactions, all later agreed that ultimately, they wouldn’t change how they buy given this new information. Sustainability is the least important factor to millennials when buying fashion apparel [Appendix 3 Q6]. Focus groups 2 and 3 and all industry experts recognise the increased monetary requirements to purchase sustainably. Considering the average importance of price to millennials is 76.4/100 when buying fashion [Appendix 3 Q6], this is a key issue.

Looking fashionable/trendy [Appendix 5 Participant 3; Appendix 7 Participant 5; Appendix 11], highly valuing brands [Appendix 7 Participant 3 and 4], a quantity over quality attitude [Appendix 10] and a need to fit in with the crowd [Appendix 5 Participant 4; Appendix 6 Participant 1] were also factors highlighted steering millennials away from sustainable consumption. One focus group participant [Appendix 7 Participant 3] alluded that millennials are obsessed with doing ‘the right thing’, ‘the in thing’ or conforming to social trends. The ‘in thing’ is not to buy sustainably but may be considered any other of the aspects mentioned here.

Disregarding sustainability Disregarding sustainable attributes, in part, stems from the fact that people believe their individual efforts won’t make a difference [Appendix 8 and 9]. All focus groups demonstrated that they put more blame on brands or government [Appendix 17, Legal] as they believe they possess the power to make a greater change. As suggested by Valor (2008), people may be willing to alter their buying behaviours if they believed it would greatly contribute to solving a planetary issue, but currently they do not. Undoubtably, for substantial difference to be made, a societal shift is required [Appendix 5 Participant 3] but millennials feel if others aren’t doing something, then why should they? [Appendix 8] Secondly, focus group participants felt that they’d care more if the detrimental effects were apparent in their local communities [Appendix 6 Participant 1]. It is only when individuals are being physically affected that they’d be willing to change [Appendix 6 Participant 6]. Lastly, there is a lack of connection felt between consumer and garment [Appendix 10]. Due to this, little guilt is experienced at purchase of unsustainable products. Due to these reasons, millennials are failing to accept their individual responsibility for the issues caused by the fashion industry and don’t feel a need to change the way the buy.

YOU ARE WHAT YOU BUY After an exercise, in which participants were asked to match corresponding purchases “in any way which made sense to them” and explain their choices, 100% of focus group participants agreed that purchases can say something about a person, as in completing the task they had all made assumptions themselves [Appendix 5, 6 and 7]. Focus groups 2 and 3 even matched purchases to specific people they knew, when nothing like this was asked of them, showing the extent to which judgments can be made given very little information. Similar, if not greater, judgments can be made regarding an individual’s clothing choices as it’s one of the initial differentiators we use to gauge people; it’s visibly part of who we are and therefore closely associated with our identity [Appendix 9]. More generally speaking, Naomi Braithewaite said that: “every choice people make is very much about them. Even if it’s an impulse decision it’s driven by a certain need or desire.” [Appendix 8] Impulse purchases, in particular, can reveal something about our nature due to minimal left hemispherical logic being applied, they’re driven by a cognitive desire, but every purchase is a choice and therefore says something about our individual character,

beliefs and desires; it mirrors our state of mind [Appendix 11]. Consequently, it’s unsurprising that people feel judged or worry about what they wear, as all focus group participants agreed. Peer pressure can have a huge impact on buying behaviour (Evans, Foxall and Jamal 2009) [Appendix 8 and 9] especially among young adults, still figuring out their individual identity’s. This feeling can also be magnified when surrounded by a large amount of people, particularly when beyond their primary social groups [Appendix 6 Participants 2 and 6]. For this reason, social media can hugely increase the level of judgement experienced as posts are presented to vast numbers of people. As a result, millennials feel it unacceptable to be seen in the same outfit multiple times (Siegle 2018), a point which was recognised by Eva Dragoeva and Tim Cooper [Appendix 9 and 10]. 84.4% of people agreed that Instagram is for sharing pictures to others rather than a place to collate them for yourself and 64.4% said it’s important to look their best on social media [Appendix 12]. In other words, this percentage feel it necessary to impress others or avoid judgment as best they can on these social media platforms.

Sustainability Discussions around whether people will become critical of one another for buying and wearing unsustainable garments gave mixed responses. Some believed this would become the case, although not for a long time. One participant said that if a conscious choice was being made by the consumer, at least part of the blame should be put on them [Appendix 5 Participant 3]. Another [Appendix 6 Participant 2] also highlighted how, supposedly sustainability led, Instagram bloggers (such as GraceFit) already receive backlash if failing to be fully sustainable even in every aspect. Eva Dragoeva [Appendix 10] also believes that people are already critical of one another however points out, as does Alessandro Vale [Appendix 11], that if actions were taken by brands this wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be necessary. Focus group 2 also deemed it unfair to be critical of those who buy unsustainably currently, as they believed for those on a strict budget itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simply not possible [Appendix 6].

EXPERIENTIAL PRODUCT PURCHASING Experiences can be used within retail spaces to lure customers into stores. Most focus group participants agreed that they’d be more likely to visit a store if there was more than ‘just shopping’ to do there. Physical outlets can offer something which online cannot in order to challenge the, currently losing, battle between the retail spaces [Appendix, technological]. Introducing the experience economy instead of presenting just “piles of stuff...with very little context” [Appendix 9] presents customers with an overall more pleasant, exciting encounter as opposed to just scrolling through pages of ‘stuff’. An ‘instagrammable’ experience will increase the likelihood for millennials to visit these stores. Seeing an engaging space, especially if located close to them or posted on social media, will entice them to visit [Appendix 6 Participant 6]. Whether this be to follow a

mainstream trend [Appendix 6 Participant 1, Appendix 8] or look ‘cool’ by posting a photo onto their own accounts [Appendix 6 Participant 2], the offer seems more enticing . However, there is a fleeting sensation attached to experiences. Each time we engage with the same experience the overall satisfaction derived diminishes slightly (Anonymous 2015); they are not sustainable long term [Appendix 8]. In addition, some focus group participants seemed sceptical to the idea, suggesting they’d only try an enhanced shopping experience once and return to online shopping altogether if it didn’t live up to their expectations [Appendix 5 Participant 2]. Some even went as far to say that they wouldn’t care for experience at all and would remain only visiting a store if they knew a desired item was there [Appendix 7].

Sustainability The consensus from primary research showed that, people are likely to listen and pay more attention to sustainable information if presented in an innovative way. However, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s still unlikely theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d change their buying behaviour because of it [Appendix 6 Participant 2; Appendix 7 Participant 4]. Experiences can be used to trigger memory and values [Appendix 8] as you feel more engaged when physically doing something, as opposed to just seeing or reading it [Appendix 6 Participant 6; Appendix 10]. Therefore, even if experiential transmittance of sustainable information wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t alter buying behaviour immediately, it could be used to better educate consumers, contributing to a longer-term shift.

CONCLUSION To answer the research question, it must first be concluded why it is that the attitude-behaviour gap exists among millennials when buying fashion apparel.

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What people buy says something about them as a person, especially in terms of fashion as it’s visibly part of who they are and therefore closely associated with their identity [Appendix 9]. Due to this, a great deal of judgment can be derived from people’s clothing choices, and millennials feel a need to conform to wearing the ‘right thing’ in order to gain social acceptance. The ‘right thing’ not being sustainable [Appendix 7 Participant 3]. Or put in other words, sustainability is not fashionable. Social media has pushed a view to perceive ‘new’, and keeping up with the latest trends, as the primary way to obtain our need for social acceptance. In order to keep up with these trends’, consumers buy new, very often and value quantity over quality. Therefore, they feel that they cannot afford sustainable alternatives and opt for fast fashion. Or, they opt for big brand names as the ‘cooler’ substitution. Consequently, despite caring more about the environment than ever before and many being critical of unsustainable brands, within millennials purchase’s sustainability is a secondary consideration causing the gap to form between their attitudes and behaviours.

So...will the growing allure towards experiences over products close the gap between consumer attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours?

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If considering experiences and products as two very distinct entities, for example comparing a purchase to attend a festival (an experience) as opposed to buying a designer purse (a product), the answer to the research question is no. The attitude-behaviour gap would not have closed as the experience has the potential to be just as environmentally damaging as the product. However, â&#x20AC;&#x153;very few material artefacts...are just material artefacts,â&#x20AC;? [Appendix 9] they carry meaning and experiences in themselves. If experiences are reviewed as a means to enhance the purchase of a product then a different answer is presented. The essence of the experience economy may be used to encourage millennials to buy more sustainably, in both the short and long term, as the combination of the two aspects (experience and sustainability) within a single purchase optimises every stage of the buying process [Figure] while presenting a perceived self-benefit, so sustainability acts as a secondary advantage.

Short term

Long term

Initial engagement to sustainable brands can be lured through right hemispherical desire when presented with the opportunity for an enjoyable experience. Throughout the pre and during stages, benefits can also be reaped through greater anticipation and fewer social comparisons (Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014) resulting in a greater overall level of happiness derived from the purchase (Gilovich 2003) (see Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014). This emotional draw would result in an overall increased perceived value of the purchase as â&#x20AC;&#x153;emotional durability is just important as physical durability when it comes to garmentsâ&#x20AC;? [Appendix 9], acting as a counterweight to the monetary issues associated with buying sustainably.

Presenting sustainable information in an innovative, experiential manor would generate a deeper sense of meaning and connection between buyer and purchase, than a purely possessional acquisition (Van Boven and Gilovich 2003), therefore resulting in a greater acceptance of individual responsibility to planetary issues. Furthermore, a lingering, joyful memory can be formed (Pine and Gilmore 2011) [Appendix 8], like that developed through the NikeId Direct Studio. Meaning, although conscious buying decisions wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t alter towards buying sustainably immediately [Appendix 6 Participant 2; Appendix 7 Participant 4], the information would be better retained than had the consumer merely read or seen it [Appendix 6 Participant 6; Appendix 10]. Consequently, consumers will be better educated, and it shall gradually become the social norm to put higher regard towards sustainable considerations, though this will be long-term.

RECOMMENDATIONS ...for a more sustainable future

TRANSPARENCY AS INDUSTRY STANDARD

To enable consumers to make an informed decision when buying, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;total transparencyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; must become an industry standard. This was an aspect recognised throughout both primary and secondary research. To implement this, a consistent, clear, easily understandable measure should be available; similar to the nutritional information now provided on food packaging. One single measure in place shall eliminate distrust and confusion regarding terminology while offering a means to effortlessly compare brands on sustainability. In addition, brands would be empowered to recognise their weakest areas and feel motivated to improve in order to gain competitive advantage. All consumers may not regard this in their buying decision, as not everyone regards nutritional values, however this eliminates a large proportion of the blame being maintained on brands. Consumers would be making a conscious choice, as they have all necessary information at their disposal, and therefore must take ownership of their individual responsibility.

BETTER MARKETING OF VALUE FOR MONEY

One of the biggest issues highlighted, to why millennials don’t buy sustainably, was a monetary aspect [Appendix 6; 7; 8; 9; 10; 11 and 12]. It is highly unlikely that brands will be able to reduce the prices of their garments given the current landscape presented by Brexit [Appendix Political] meaning imminent, potentially significantly, increased costs for fashion brands. Therefore, they must instead better market their product’s long-term value for money due to their high durability, in comparison to that of exceedingly low-priced, short-lifed fast fashion alternatives, as Stella McCartney promotes with her ‘Clevercare’ campaign. Brands must re-educate the market, shifting preferences from quantity to quality [Appendix 10 and 12], to divert those of lower disposable incomes perceiving fast fashion as a necessity to them [Appendix 9; Appendix, Economic] and the only option available to obtain their basic needs [Appendix 15].

MAKE EXPERIENCES SHARABLE

The report concluded that the essence of the experience economy may be used to encourage consumers to more sustainable buying behaviours. To improve these experiences, a sharable aspect should be present. Social acceptance was the other key theme found throughout this report due to the high level of judgment associated with clothing choices experienced by millennials. As sustainability won’t fulfil consumer’s psychological needs [Appendix 15] they must be fulfilled by some other means. Enhancing retail spaces with ‘instagrammable’ aesthetics [Appendix 17, Technological] will make millennials more likely to post about them, some (41%) may even visit just to post about it. The attention and recognition derived from social media platforms shall consequently satisfy consumers psychological needs while making the sustainable aspect feel like more of a ‘right thing’ [Appendix 7 Participant 3] or more fashionable. In addition, this shall increase reach of sustainable messages, further educating society, and start to make sustainability more fashionable.

APPENDICES

APPENDIX 1 Initial methodology table

Will the growing allure towards experiences over produc

AIM: To understand the gap between consumer’s attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours.

AIM: To understand the gap between consumer’s attitudes towards Objective

Research Method

Questions to Ask

(aspects to be researched)

A - To understand consumer’s buying habits and considerations behind their purchases. (consumer) 1 – Consumer behaviour (inc. buying and consumption) 2 - Purchase motivators

Rationale

(aspect addressed)

Evans, M., Foxall, G. and Jamal, A. (2009). Consumer Behaviour. 2nd ed. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons.

1 – How can aspects like demographics and location alter behaviour? 2 - What do they consider when making a purchasing decision? (what are the unconscious motivators which may not be picked up in primary research)

Choo, H., Sim, S., Lee, H. and Kim, H. (2014). The effect of consumers' involvement and innovativeness on the utilization of fashion wardrobe. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 38(2), pp.175-182.

1 – How do they consume what they do buy? (Product utilization)

Sec Gain general know can affect consume to the fashion indus

The article will prov clothing utilization.

P Survey

1 - How often do they purchase? 1 - Where do they buy from, and how often? (type of stores, online/offline) 2 - Who/what are they influenced by? 1 - What are people talking about/looking at when making their purchase decision?

Observations

1 – Where are they looking? What kind of shops?

Instagram poll

2 - How important is online presence for millennials? Do they buy as a result of this? 2 - Do they purchase as a result of bloggers influence? 2 - How influential is social pressure?

A survey shall allow number of different demographic abou regarding fashion.

Consumers may no remember everythi Observation can fil gaps in a consume possible motivators impulse purchases

An Instagram poll w the same, some dif answering the surv few questions will b this means what is key questions.

Sec B - To analyse consumer’s understanding of, and attitudes towards sustainability, ethics and global issues and their expectations of fashion brands.

Joergens, C. (2006). Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 10(3), pp.360-371.

1 – What does sustainability mean to millennials? 1 – Does it affect their buying behaviour? 2 – What do millennials expect from brands in terms of sustainability?

(consumer) 1 – Sustainability knowledge and importance 2 - Consumer demands

Is sustainability a p motivator (A2) and consumer behaviou

Survey

1 – Do people look for sustainability information when purchasing? 1- Is there a gap in the people who say they care about sustainability but don’t make the effort to collect the relevant information? 2 – Does the result of this make their final purchase decision?

A survey will allow between questions of respondents ma

experiences over products close the gap between consumer attitudes towards sustainability and their a consumer’s attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours.

demographics and

when making a t are the hich may not be rch)

what they do buy?

Rationale

Potential Risks

Risk Minimisation

Secondary Gain general knowledge and factors which can affect consumer behaviour to be applied to the fashion industry.

Generalized theories may miss huge current influences on purchasing behaviours.

Paired with primary research will give more relevant findings.

The article will provide a specific take on clothing utilization.

Authors may be biased as to try to emphasize a positive or negative outcome.

Other utilization stats will be reviewed and compared to check reliability.

A survey shall allow quick answers from a number of different respondents of the right demographic about their buying behaviour regarding fashion.

Respondents may be unaware of how often they actually purchase or their influences.

Observation will help close see the contrasts between what people say and do and why.

Consumers may not be aware of or remember everything they do or look at. Observation can fill this gap and as well as gaps in a consumer’s purchase journey and possible motivators they’re unaware of (e.g. impulse purchases).

If those being observed have not taken part in the survey it may be unreliable to draw conclusions by comparing the two (what they say they do from the survey, vs what they actually do from observation).

Samples of the survey and observation will be the same meaning, even if the same people are not used in each, the same type of consumer will be analysed.

An Instagram poll will gain responses (some the same, some different than those answering the survey) very quickly as only a few questions will be presented, however this means what is asked here should be key questions.

It’s difficult to control the sample with an Instagram poll as all followers will have access.

The vast majority of followers, of the account that will post the poll, are within the required demographic.

The article was created 12 years ago meaning attitudes and behaviour could have changed since then.

Questions in survey shall test to see the extent of which attitudes have changed.

Primary

hase?

m, and how often? ne)

uenced by? g about/looking at se decision?

g? What kind of

presence for s a result of this?

result of bloggers pressure?

ty mean to

ng behaviour?

Secondary Is sustainability a primary purchase motivator (A2) and therefore directs consumer behaviour (A1).

pect from brands

tainability ng?

ople who say they ut don’t make the t information?

make their final

Primary A survey will allow easy comparison between questions and from a large number of respondents making results more reliable.

People may respond saying they shop more sustainably than they do.

The survey shall remain anonymous so no judgement may be experienced in answering.

1 – Where are they looking? What kind of shops?

Instagram poll

2 - How important is online presence for millennials? Do they buy as a result of this? 2 - Do they purchase as a result of bloggers influence? 2 - How influential is social pressure?

gaps in a consume possible motivators impulse purchases

An Instagram poll w the same, some dif answering the surv few questions will b this means what is key questions.

Sec B - To analyse consumer’s understanding of, and attitudes towards sustainability, ethics and global issues and their expectations of fashion brands.

Joergens, C. (2006). Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 10(3), pp.360-371.

1 – What does sustainability mean to millennials? 1 – Does it affect their buying behaviour? 2 – What do millennials expect from brands in terms of sustainability?

(consumer) 1 – Sustainability knowledge and importance

Is sustainability a p motivator (A2) and consumer behaviou

1 – Do people look for sustainability information when purchasing?

Survey

1- Is there a gap in the people who say they care about sustainability but don’t make the effort to collect the relevant information?

2 - Consumer demands

A survey will allow between questions of respondents mak

2 – Does the result of this make their final purchase decision? 1 - What do participants define ‘sustainable consumption’ as? 2 - Do consumers take responsibility of their impacts or put blame onto others? 1 – Why don’t many millennials buy sustainably?

Focus Groups

Questioning can inf onto respondents to meaning they may Within focus groups more comfortable a social group to ans

Sec C - To review what brands are already doing in terms of sustainable practices and their potential to do more. (brand) 1 - Current sustainable practices 2 - Brand-toconsumer communication

WGSN Sustainable Bulletins

1 – What's the latest sustainable innovations in the fashion industry?

WGSN provide a m sustainable highligh industries including accessories and fu

Pr Survey

2 – Are consumers aware of sustainable practices in place by the brands they shop from most?

Although consumer sustainably (B1) wh not actually be awa manufacturing proc used even by their

V&A – Fashioned From Nature

3 – What's the latest, innovative ways to be sustainable?

Attending an event perspective what b compared of what t exhibition will also p perspective additio relationship betwee through history.

3 – Can methods be (easily) applied to the fashion industry?

3 - Future implementations

? What kind of

presence for s a result of this?

result of bloggers pressure?

y mean to

ng behaviour?

gaps in a consumer’s purchase journey and possible motivators they’re unaware of (e.g. impulse purchases).

they say they do from the survey, vs what they actually do from observation).

same type of consumer will be analysed.

It’s difficult to control the sample with an Instagram poll as all followers will have access.

The vast majority of followers, of the account that will post the poll, are within the required demographic.

The article was created 12 years ago meaning attitudes and behaviour could have changed since then.

Questions in survey shall test to see the extent of which attitudes have changed.

A survey will allow easy comparison between questions and from a large number of respondents making results more reliable.

People may respond saying they shop more sustainably than they do.

The survey shall remain anonymous so no judgement may be experienced in answering.

Questioning can inflict a sense of pressure onto respondents to give a ‘correct’ answer meaning they may not answer truthfully. Within focus groups, participants will feel more comfortable around their primary social group to answer truthfully.

Participants may still answer untruthfully or think they do one thing when they do another.

Projective techniques shall be used to understand why millennials shop a certain way.

WGSN will offer a strongly descriptive rather than critical view. The brands they’re presenting may not be performing well.

Information derived from here will be looked at critically, taking examples as possibilities only to later be considered if their innovations are ‘good’ or successful.

Secondary Is sustainability a primary purchase motivator (A2) and therefore directs consumer behaviour (A1).

pect from brands

ainability ng?

ple who say they ut don’t make the t information?

Primary

make their final

fine ‘sustainable

ponsibility of their others? nials buy

nable innovations

Secondary WGSN provide a monthly report of sustainable highlights across varying industries including clothing and footwear, accessories and furniture. Primary

of sustainable ands they shop

Although consumers may think they buy sustainably (B1) when questioned they may not actually be aware of operations, manufacturing processes and materials used even by their favourite brands.

Questions such as this force respondents to really think about what they know. When completing a survey at their own accord respondents tend to get lazy therefore not giving as much information as desired.

Very few open-ended questions shall be used in order to maintain respondent attention and quality of answers.

vative ways to be

Attending an event will help put into perspective what brands are doing in compared of what they could do. This exhibition will also put the industry into perspective additionally offering our relationship between nature and fashion through history.

An exhibition may be biased in the scalability or simplicity to implement the latest innovations.

Innovations will be reviewed objectively and, if necessary for further research and conclusions, further industry experts will be contacted and questioned for their opinion.

y) applied to the

Aim: To investigate the societal move towards experiences over materialistic purchases.

Aim: To investigate the societal move towards experie

Sec D - To explore customers current preferences between experiences and products. (consumer) 1 - Experience economy 2 - Consumer behaviour

Pine, B. and Gilmore, J. (2011). The experience economy. Boston, Mass. : Harvard Business Review Press. Holbrook, M. and Hirschman, E. (1982). The Experiential Aspects of Consumption: Consumer Fantasies, Feelings, and Fun. Journal of Consumer Research, 9(2), p.132.

1 – What is the experience economy?

The book shall prov of what the experie the trends rising.

1 – Why is there a move towards experiences over products?

The article shall pro thoughts towards a well before it becam

Evans, M., Foxall, G. and Jamal, A. (2009). Consumer Behaviour. 2nd ed. Chichester: John Wiley & Sons.

2 – What are key purchase motivators?

General consumer be applied to the ex

1+2 – How does the purchasing process effect millennials overall preferences? 2 – How can different pressure/influences effect purchase decisions?

Pr Survey

1- Do millennials spend most on products or experiences? 1+2 - If money weren’t an issue would the outcome be the same? 2 – Who influences their choice? (e.g. FOMO)

Focus groups

1+2 – Could the experience economy be used to lure them back into physical retail stores?

Comparison of the other factors are at preferences betwee experiences for mil

Focus groups will a conversation to unr purchase and what enjoyment, all facto

Sec E - To review what brands are doing to implement more experiences and their justification in doing so.

Business of Fashion

(brand)

Observation

1 - What experiences have fashion brands already implemented?

BoF will highlight st experience econom the fashion industry

Pr 1 - What type of fashion brands are best implementing the experience economy and how?

Experience economy 1 – Who, what and how 2 – Why 3 – Consumer response

Brands will be biase implementations so successful or more Observation will allo to the success of im relevance to the bra

e societal move towards experiences over materialistic purchases. Secondary

e economy?

The book shall provide basic understanding of what the experience economy is and why the trends rising.

More up to date information will be required to track the trends progression.

Observations and staff interviews (E) will provide a more up to date view.

owards ?

The article shall provide some of the first thoughts towards an experience economy, well before it became a macro trend.

The article is over 35 years old meaning reasons for consumption may have altered since being written.

More up to date articles will be located and considered after initial research.

e motivators?

General consumer behaviour theories can be applied to the experience economy.

This will show a generalisation of behaviour, not specific or directly relevant to the issue being discussed.

Theories will be adapted and modified to fit the sample, industry and question at hand.

Comparison of the 2 questions will show if other factors are at work when distinguishing preferences between products and experiences for millennials.

Respondents may believe theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d buy one way if money werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t an issue but would behave another way.

Mass responses through a survey should eliminate this risk appearing in the final conclusion.

Focus groups will allow a greater depth conversation to unravel the true reasons for purchase and what creates the most enjoyment, all factors being considered.

Non-uniform interviews (e.g. questions being asked differently) could give different responses making comparison difficult and potentially unreliable.

Follow set of initial questions to be discussed in the direct respondent answers

Not all implementations will be addressed, smaller in store examples will be missed.

Observations will uncover smaller implementations of the trend already in place such as those touching on different sensory aspects.

Stores may not have the budget to implement what they want.

Stores in London will be analysed as the location to most likely have best implemented the experience economy.

asing process references?

sure/influences ?

ost on products or

issue would the

hoice? (e.g.

e economy be o physical retail

e fashion brands

ands are best nce economy and

Primary

Secondary BoF will highlight strong examples of experience economy implementations within the fashion industry. Primary Brands will be biased making their implementations sound potentially more successful or more intriguing than they are. Observation will allow first hand perspective to the success of implementation and relevance to the brand.

APPENDIX 2 Online survey questions 1

APPENDIX 3 Online survey results 1

4 (selection of responses)

6 (0)

(33.3)

(66.6)

(100)

APPENDIX 4 Focus Group Base Questions

Introduction As part of my programme of study, I am undertaking research into the effects of the experience economy on the gap between millennials attitudes and behaviours regarding sustainability. To enable me to answer my research question I wish to question you about, and test your own, fashion consuming behaviours. The focus group will be a focussed discussion and will take approximately 15-30 minutes. We will concentrate on the following: Consumption behaviour of fashion Purchase motivators Products vs experiences This shall be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I shall arrange for this to happen. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my project. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and transcripts will be kept on password protected devices, both which will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. Investigating attitude-behaviour gap of sustainability (Exercise) To start to get you think, we’re going to start with a little game, a ‘find the pairs game’. There’s 8 cards showing different purchases made or places of purchase. There’s no right or wrong answer here but your task is to match them, to match them together to make 4 pairs, in any way which makes sense to you. If you can picture a certain person to buy them, if they have certain characteristics, values or interests, what ever makes sense to you. Is everyone in agreement? Actual:

Fun seeking (experience/novelty)

Brand-conscious

Impulse buyer

Eco-conscious

You’ve made assumptions about (quite specific) people/personas, based on nothing more than a few purchases, I didn’t tell you how often they’d buy these things, if they’re even for themselves, didn’t ask for anything too specific, but you gave it to me. You managed to pair them on very little information. - With this in mind do you think yours or anyone in this rooms purchases says something about them as a person? Is this reflective or not to what they’re actually like? - What’s your understanding of ‘sustainable clothing’. Actual - “doing more with less” - buy less - clothes to last longer- less to landfill, less material wasted, less water, chemicals, pesticides used etc. - Why do you think many people your age don’t buy into sustainable clothing? - Would your answer change knowing more millennials now saying they care about and want to help the environment? - Do you ever feel judged or fear what people will think because of what you wear? - Do you think badly of brands who produce unethically or unsustainably? Does it stop you from buying from them? - Many people already scrutinise and look down on brands for unsustainable behaviour. Do you think, in future, this could follow on so people look down on one another for their purchases, usage or improper disposal of products? (Food for thought) You’re all probably a least partly aware of the issues of global warming, rising water levels, land mass destruction etc. But (food for thought) did you know that we're using 70% more resources than our Earth can renew each year and heavily due to humanity’s impact, wildlife populations have declined by 60% in just over 40 years. Fashion is the second most polluting industry globally, after big oil, accounting for 10% of all carbon emissions and 20% of all global freshwater pollution. In the UK alone, 235 million items of clothing went to landfill last year with 3/5 of them having arrived there within under a year of ownership. - What do you think about this? - Realistically, with this information would it make you go away and drastically change your shopping habits? - What would it take, what is more valuable to you? - So do you agree you would only change where you shop if it benefited you… (financially, preferred the style, convenient etc.) sustainability is almost an extra or secondary benefit? Investigate experience economy - On average how often do you go to a clothing shop? - Would you be more likely to visit if there was more than just shopping to do? On a basic level, if it incorporated a cafe or game, or if it incorporated the latest tech? - Does everyone know what AI, AR and VR is? - Would you be more likely to pay attention to information is it was presented to you in a different way - multi sensual/ latest tech etc - If you liked the experience do you think you’d start visiting physical stores more often instead of shopping online?

APPENDIX 5 Focus Group 1 (Primarily males) Participants

Fimiyo Alaka Age: 22 Louis Dorsett Age: 20 Zeph Hunte Age: 21 Max Ruse Age: 22 Emmie Whitehead Age: 20

Date:

11/12/2018

Interviewer:

(Ethics declaration) As part of my Stage 1 report for Fashion Marketing and Branding, I am undertaking research into the effects of the experience economy on the gap between millennials attitudes and behaviours regarding sustainability and wish to ask you some questions to help me move forward in answering my research question. The focus group will focus on: Consumption behaviour of sustainable fashion Purchase motivators Products vs experiences This shall be taped and transcribed and the information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my project. Anything you say will be treated with confidence, going no further than for the purpose of this project, your contribution being used to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and transcripts will be kept on password protected devices, both which will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated.

Interviewer:

To start to get you think, we’re going to start with a little game, a ‘find the pairs game’. There’s 8 cards showing different purchases made or places of purchase. There’s no right or wrong answer here but your task is to match them, to match them together to make 4 pairs, in any way which makes sense to you. If you can picture a certain person to buy them, if they have certain characteristics, values or interests, what ever makes sense to you. (Participants start exercise)

Participant 1:

I think they go together.

Interviewer:

Why?

Participant 1:

Festival innit. They have Patagonia... bare people with like North Face and Patagonia jackets roll around at Reading and Leeds. But I don’t get that (points at card) I don’t get the batman socks.

Participant 2:

So these are food.

Participant 3:

Ye that’s food.

Participant 4:

Nah I’d go...

Participant 1:

That with that because that’s like Starbuck’s and girlie girls dress up...like there’s small dogs and cocktails.

Participant 3:

That doesn’t seem like girlie girls does it.

Participant 5:

I was thinking that could go with this one...

Group:

(Inaudible discussion)

Interviewer:

So as a group if you had to put them in 4 sets what would they be.

Participant 1:

4 sets...erm.

Participant 3:

I reckon that one with that one...like coffee, Primark, predominantly women. You know what I’m saying.

Participant 1:

See I would have said that one with that one ‘cos that’s more like cutesy rather than that’s more just...just straightforward like gum and standard coffee but that one’s Starbuck’s coffee.

Participant 3:

So what would you put that one with?

Participant 1:

What would I put that one with?

Participant 3:

Yeah.

Participant 1:

See I wouldn’t know. Maybe this one. This one’s like an older audience... Like my mum eats all of that.

Participant 3:

Oh so you’re pairing it on the audience.

Participant 2:

Yeah maybe.

Participant 1:

That’s what I’d say yeah... but I don’t know.

Participant 5:

That one can go with that one... and that with that one.

Participant 3:

Yeah I like that.

Interviewer:

Okay a quick reasoning behind those 2. (points at B2 and A1 match)

Participant 1:

Basically like cute, cutesy girl.

Interviewer:

Cutesy girl. This one. (points at D2 and B1 match)

Participant 2:

Older generation.

Participant 1:

Yeah more like... sustainable.

Interviewer:

Okay. This one. (points at C1 and C2 match)

Participant 2:

Food.

Participant 3:

(chuckle)

Interviewer:

Food. And this one. (points at A2 and D1 match)

Participant 3:

Like err.. festival vibes.

Interviewer:

Okay. So, obviously they were made to trick you but initial ones were... (reorganise cards)

Participant 4:

See I never would have put them together.

Group:

Wooow.

Participant 5:

Oh so we got that one right.

Interviewer:

So I’ll explain. They’re basically people’s reasons for buying certain items. So this is brand-conscious,... this is ecoconscious... this is fun-seeking so either experiences or novelty items ...and this is impulse buys. So from that I hope you can see that you can make judgments about people from their purchases. Based on that do you think any of you or anyone one else’s in the rooms purchases says anything about them.

Participant 4:

Yeah.

Participant 3:

All purchases say something about us though. Everyone buys different things. Apart from a few odd people I can think of that don’t have iPhones. There’s nothing really else that everyone has, there’s no one specific thing... it’s depending on themself.

Interviewer:

So what would an iPhone say about you?

Participant 1:

iPhones are like simple.

Participant 3:

Yeah simple to use.

Participant 1:

Everyone can use it.

Participant 5:

Well it looks good if you have one...if you have an iPhone, others just aren’t as good.

Participant 3:

iPhones act as like a pass into the cool club. Essentially it’s like ‘cos you’ve got an iPhone you an do certain things that people with out an iPhone can’t do.

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Interviewer:

So would everyone agree that your purchases can say something about you?

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

Okay. Moving on. - What’s your understanding of ‘sustainable clothing’?

Participant 2:

Don’t know what that means.

Participant 3:

Hemp.

Participant 5:

Is it clothes that have been used for something else.

Participant 2:

Hippies.

Participant 3:

Or made from a... a reused source. Like some kind of PVC plastic dress made from some used plastics.

Interviewer:

Okay, interesting...So, to put it loosely it’s “doing more with less”, so you want your clothes to last longer, you’re buying less, you also want less water, chemicals and pesticides put into the products you’re making etc. So why do you think many people your age don’t buy into sustainable clothing?

Participant 5:

Because they don’t know... they might not know where it’s come from.

Participant 2:

They don’t know much about it.

Participant 4:

They don’t care.

Participant 1:

That’s literally it.

Group:

(Laughter in agreement)

Participant 3:

Nah I agree, I agree.

Participant 4:

They literally don’t care. Like when you go into a shop and look around you don’t go ahh I wonder where that was made.. like that factory don’t come into it.

Participant 3:

Also you wanna be trendy. And being trendy is like keeping up with the latest fashion trends which is just the new style of clothing and old clothing just... go out of fashion so... you need to just keep buying the latest ones so no one wants to buy the old ones.

Interviewer:

So would you agree that sustainability is something that it’s nice to know it’s there but you don’t really think about it, other things come on top of that.

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

Do you ever feel judged or fear what people will think because of what you wear?

Participant 2:

Yeah.

Participant 3:

I think we all do to some extent it’s just whether you react or care about it.

Group:

(mumbles of agreement)

Interviewer:

Do you or would you think badly of brands who produce unethically or unsustainably?

Participant 2:

What if they like kill animals for their clothes?

Interviewer:

Anything. So if they treat their workers badly, animals, produce unsustainable...

Participant 2:

Not really.

Interviewer:

Not really?

Participant 2:

No.

Participant 3:

Welllll. If they used like coyote fur innit.

Participant 5:

People do love animals.

Group:

(inaudible discussion)

Participant 4:

Nah I’d care if I was aware they were using like child labour and sh*t like that.

Group:

(mumbles of agreement)

Participant 3:

Don’t Nike use child labour....you’re wearing Nike...

Group:

(laughter)

Interviewer:

So you care more about brands being unethical than unsustainable?

Participant 4:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

Many people do already scrutinise and look down on brands for unsustainable behaviour. Do you think, in future, this could follow on so people look down on one another for their purchases, usage or improper disposal of products? (silent pause)

Participant 3:

woww

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 1:

Too much to process. (laughing)

Interviewer:

So if there is a brand who do produce unsustainably and everyone knows about it... will you only think badly of the brand or people who buy from the brand too?

Participant 3:

Well it’s both.

Participant 2:

Yeah.

Participant 3:

It’s gotta be both...

Participant 2:

Gotta be yeah.

Participant 3:

...because the make the choice to push that product and source their materials from...whatever they’re using..some kind of fur or child labour or whatever... but essentially suppliers are also making that choice to supply it an people to buy it. To be honest that information isn’t always available. So sometimes you have to say like they didn’t know so that’s fair enough. It’s whether you make the conscious choice knowing to go back and buy it ‘cos you’re putting money back in their pockets.

Participant 4:

Things like that don’t really last long anyway. You get massive up-hauls online like.. there was something with.. Moncler last year where...

Participant 1:

Oh what about that erm...

Participant 4:

They were dropping ratings from being racist and everyone was like...

Participant 1:

...the gollywog thing.

Participant 4:

Yeah. Everyone was on about not wearing Moncler anymore but now that’s all died down.

Participant 3:

Yeah, it’s almost like a trend to hate. It’s almost like it’s a trend to hate but then after a while you stop, you don’t really care anymore.

Interviewer:

Would you say almost... people are doing it more because...

Participant 4:

...because other people are doing it. (mumbles of agreement)

Participant 3:

Well it depends what kind of person you are I guess.

Interviewer:

Participant 3:

No I did not know that.

Participant 4:

Nah I did not know that.

Participant 5:

They’re some big percentages.

Interviewer:

Fashion is the second most polluting industry globally, after big oil, accounting for 10% of all carbon emissions and 20% of all global freshwater pollution...

Participant 3:

That’s kinda mad.

Interviewer:

In the UK alone, 235 million items of clothing went to landfill last year with 3/5 of them having arrived there within under a year of ownership. So what do you think about all this?

Group:

(silence in thought)

Participant 3:

Err... it’s not great

Participant 1:

I’m not gonna lie like all I can think about is people just sorting through our rubbish, like to find clothes and that on landfill sites.

Participant 3:

Oh I don’t know if that’s... Yeah it happens but I don’t know if that’s a mega problem.

Participant 5:

I thought we’d have them a lot longer like before they get there.

Interviewer:

Realistically, with this information would it make you go away and drastically change your shopping habits?

Participant 4:

No. (laughter)

Participant 3:

But it’s sad, yeah, but essentially these things take a lot. It’s just the power in numbers idea but it’s also like no one wants to fight this kind of battle alone... like nobody really wants to be that person rocking their dodgy... recycled garms.

Interviewer:

So would you agree you’d only change your shopping habits, not because of sustainability but the brand attracted you for example because you like their style, because it’s cheaper or some other reason...other than sustainability. Even though you probably care about it... you most likely won’t do a lot about it.

Participant 1:

Yeah not really.

Participant 3:

Yeah well... the brands are more responsible than we are. Like, as I said earlier, we have part of the responsibility but they can’t push a product that has a negative impact. It’s like if you’re a chef and you’re putting out food which makes people ill... yeah you chose to eat it but that’s the chef’s responsibility. You wouldn’t go and blame that person for eating it. At the end of the day it’s the chef’s fault for cooking the meal... so it’s their responsibility.

Interviewer:

So you think brands have pretty much all the responsibility at the end of the day?

Participant 3:

Well...yeahh but...

Participant 2:

More, they have more. Not all, they have more.

Participant 3:

Yeah they have more of a responsibility.

Interviewer:

On average how often do you go to a clothing shop?

Participant 2:

Not very often, I buy it all online.

Participant 1:

Like once a month, once every few months.

Interviewer:

Would you be more tempted to go in if there was something other than just shopping there. So in simple terms just a coffee shop or a game or they could in corporate the latest technology. Are you all familiar with AI, AR and VR?

Group:

(nods and mumbles of agreement)

Interviewer:

So if they were incorporating the latest technology, such as that, to benefit your shopping... so it offers more than shopping online... would you be more tempted to go in?

Participant 2:

Yeah I’d probably go in.

Interviewer:

You probably would?

Participant 2:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

Would that be a one off thing?

Participant 2:

Well, I’d try it and if it’s good I’d go again.

Interviewer:

Fair enough, so if you had a bad experience would you try from a different brand?

Participant 2:

Probably not, I’d just go back to shopping online.

Group:

(laughter and agreement)

“Cutesy girl”

“Older generation”

“Food”

“Festival vibes”

APPENDIX 6 Focus Group 2 (Primarily females) Participants

Grace Harrold Age: 20 Kathryn Harwood Age: 20 Sophie Heaton Age: 21 Amy Livesey Age: 20 Joe Sewell Age: 20 Aliyah Turnbull Age: 20

Date:

12/12/2018

Interviewer:

Participant 1:

Erm... this and that because that’s literally me in a picture.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 2:

Those two.

Participant 3:

Yeah.

Participant 4:

Ooooh.

Participant 3:

Those two go together.

Participant 1:

What’s that one?

Participant 5:

Cocktails.

Participant 6 :

Yeah those two. Primark with the food, maybe with the Patagonia.

Participant 2:

Yeah

Group:

‘cos you need a mint after dominoes.

Participant 4:

(laughter)

Group:

Okay, all agreed?

Interviewer:

Yeah.

Group:

So just briefly explain each one to me and why you paired them together:

Participant 6:

This one, the book, vegan, vegetarian.

Participant 1:

This is ‘participant 6’.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 1:

It actually is. I think that looks like your car (laughter)

Participant 6:

Right that because it’s vegan, vegan, a bit hippyish.

Participant 1:

That is you, that’s such you. That’s your bedsheets that one.

Participant 2:

And Depop ‘cos people think about waste and stuff.

Group:

(mumbles of agreement)

Participant 1:

That’s true.

Group:

(inaudible discussion)

Participant 6:

This one is like avid consumer, buys a lot of things.

Participant 1:

That’s so me.

Participant 2:

Wants to be on trend.

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

This one?

Participant 6:

Erm... I’m not sure about that one.

Participant 5:

It’s cheap-skate kind of...cheap-skate.

Participant 3:

Student.

Group:

(inaudible discussion)

Participant 2:

Yeah, maccies, student who goes on a night out...

Participant 3:

Yeah but doesn’t care about brands maybe, I don’t know.

Group:

(Silent pause)

Interviewer:

So this one?

Participant 1:

I don’t think I see any Patagonia people at Reading I’m not gonna lie.

Participant 6:

Yeah I wouldn’t put them together.

Participant 5:

Yeah it’s a bit random.

Participant 1:

Isn’t it North Face that jacket?

Participant 4:

Yeah.

Participant 1:

Oh you see North Face, yeah.

Interviewer:

(reorganise cards) So I’ll explain. They’re basically people’s reasons for buying certain items. So there’s impulse buys, so you got that one right... brand-conscious,

Participant 6:

Ohhh

Interviewer:

... this is eco-conscious...

Group:

Oh yeahh (understanding mumbles)

Interviewer:

and this is fun-seeking so either experiences or novelty items.

Group:

Ahhh (understanding noises)

Participant 1:

We were thinking more of the consumer point of view though. (inaudible discussion)

Interviewer:

So the point of this was to show you... even though I didn’t explicitly ask, you made assumptions about a person...in some a very particular person.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 6:

Yeah...

Participant 5:

We’re all very judgemental. (laughing)

Participant 6:

You’re playing mind games.

Participant 3:

Yeahh...

Group:

(laughter)

Interviewer:

So with this in mind...even though I guess you’ve partly answered this... do you think any of your purchases says something about you as a person?

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

Does that match who you actually are?

Participant 6:

Depends because I buy Quorn and stuff. But I also... wear this... (laughing)

Participant 2:

I don’t know because I feel like if I had more money I’d buy differently to how I do...

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

...I’d buy clothes that I think look better...than I actually do ‘cos I just don’t necessarily spend money on those things.

Participant 6:

Yeah I think it depends on the kind of me I am...

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 6:

If I was the me I want to be I;d buy loads of things that are my style that I wouldn’t wear now and if I had the money I’d wear a completely different set of clothes than I do now... I’d buy different foods...

Participant 2:

Yeah.

Participant 3:

I’m an impulse buyer for sure.

Participant 1:

Yeah I am too but I barely am a certain style ‘cos I’ll wear a dress but I’ll also wear...

Participant 3:

Yeah it’s weird ‘cos there’s stuff I bought like 5 years ago I’d probably still wear now.

Participant 2:

Oh yeah definitely.

Participant 1:

Oh I’ve definitely changed.

Interviewer:

So, do you agree that your purchases can say something about you?

Participant 6:

Oh yeah. (enthusiastic)

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Interviewer:

What’s your understanding of ‘sustainable clothing’.

Participant 3:

I should be more interested in it than I am... it means like... like how it’s getting wasted and not being recycled. We’re not cautious about the environment when we’re buying.

Participant 6:

I think it means like... where the materials are sourced from and how they’re transported... how far they’re transported. Who made them, if they got paid enough, unfair working atmospheres and stuff.

Participant 2:

I feel... echo everything you said really. (point to participant 6)

Participant 1:

I...I just forget and honestly I just...think about myself. (laughing) and I should think about the world...it’s sad but it’s true.

Participant 3:

Like even when that big Primark thing came out and everyone was talking about it... I still shopped there.

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Participant 1:

I feel like if I... was around friends who cared... I probably would care, but cos we all don’t care, I don’t care. We don’t judge each other.

Interviewer:

Do you think most people your age have the same kind of views?

Participant 1:

Nah there’s definitely some girls on our course.

Participant 2:

Gracefit for example...she shops ethically.

Participant 5:

But she has the money.

Participant 6:

But she also says she’d rather stick to her style and she still buys some things that are leather...

Group:

(inaudible conversation)

Participant 2:

But she only buys things that are leather off of Depop, so she’s not fuelling the demand for it... she’s just using what’s

already out there kind of thing. Participant 3:

Even when you buy like cars...you’re getting leather with it.

Participant 6:

Yeah you can’t avoid that.

Participant 2:

I feel like people buying stuff off like Depop and charity shops is more of the way forward with sustainability...

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Participant 2:

... than like making sustainable, ethically made clothes ‘cos we’re still so far away from achieving that.

Participant 6:

Making new stuff that’s sustainable is still contributing to the waste rather than using up what we have already.

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

I think charity shops ‘n’ that is definitely becoming more popular.

Participant 1:

I think at the end of the day it’s the same as being like vegan like there’s still gonna be chicken ‘n’ stuff being slaughtered and kept in small pens but you know I can’t afford buying free range eggs n...

Interviewer:

So do you think it’s more brand’s responsibility to do something rather than consumers?

Participant 1:

I think it’s legislation, I think the government need to do something.

Participant 6:

Yeah, I think that’s where it needs to start, then it needs to filter down.

Participant 2:

I just don’t think it ever will. I think it will get better but I don’t think we will ever like completely shift.

Participant 5:

It’s because people think like oh... what’s me buying that...it’s not gonna do much.

Participant 2:

Yeah.

Participant 6:

I think if there was a large group of consumers brand would change because they’d meet the demands. It’s like how there’s so many more vegan alternatives than there was like 5 years ago because people are demanding it or stop buying something else, so they have to respond to it.

Participant 2:

Yeah, there’s like a community of people out there who are really focused on it.

Participant 5:

Yeah say like 5 years ago... with the testing makeup on animals... now I would never dream of buying something that was tested on animals.

Group:

(questioning mumbles)

Participant 2:

Primark’s makeup?

Participant 5:

Nah, I promise you I look.

Participant 4:

Everything you buy you know what testing’s been done, it’s made clear on the back.

Participant 1:

Primark isn’t.

Participant 3:

Primark hide it though.

Participant 5:

Nah I read a big article about it before...

Participant 2:

I bet there’s a lot of makeup in your draw though that has been tested on animals.

Participant 3:

Revlon?

Participant 5:

No loads of them actually aren’t now, I promise you.

Participant 6:

A lot of them aren’t compared to a few years ago... but a lot of the ones you think wouldn’t... are the ones who are.

Participant 5:

Yeah, but like Revlon isn’t tested on animals.

Participant 6:

I feel like the more expensive ones are the ones that do.

Participant 5:

Yeah.

Group:

(inaudible conversation)

Participant 5:

I’m just trying to make a point like I think that’s been around longer whereas sustainability has come around now so it’s not as big of a deal yet and people don’t care yet.

Participant 2:

It’s easier as well like not testing on animals is easier than being sustainable. Like for brands to become sustainable the things they have to change is enormous. Like factories...sourcing...everything whereas not testing on animals... I know there’s still a lot to change but you just don’t get it if you know what I mean.

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Participant 6:

It doesn’t make a huge difference on price not testing on animals whereas, clothes that are sustainable sometimes rockets the price up. Whereas makeup brands that don’t test on animals...you can easily find a different makeup alternative that

don’t test on animals for the same price. Participant 3:

I think celebrities are big influencers that come out with their own makeup like...Kat Von Dee or Jeffree Star that have made a massive point about it that it hasn’t been tested on animals, I think other brands are following that like, thinking...oh god...we need to follow that... we need to put this out as well... it’s becoming more aware what’s going on.

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Participant 3:

‘cos I think that the industry was very behind closed doors whereas now...you know what’s going on.

Interviewer:

Do you ever feel judged or worry about what people will think because of what you wear?

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

Why?

Participant 1:

Only on some days when I’m not like looking my best.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 3:

On Sundays. (laughing)

Participant 4:

Sundays.

Participant 6:

I don’t why...

Participant 1:

I don’t know.

Participant 2:

I don’t necessarily feel judged just people thinking... maybe that is feeling judged...but like looking at what you’re wearing.

Participant 6:

I think it depends...

Participant 2:

‘cos I have quite a simple style I don’t think there’s a lot to judge with what I wear.

Participant 6:

I think it depends what you wear like... I feel like going into uni or something I feel like... like when we started uni I was worried about getting judged because there’s so many people around you.

Group:

(agreeing noises)

Participant 6:

But I feel like it depends where you are what setting.

Participant 1:

I feel like when I wear my purple trousers...mate, the amount of looks I got. I was like... I just feel amazing in them.

Participant 3:

Yeah, I don’t think I care as much as other people do but I do care... a bit.

Participant 2:

I feel like I don’t care with people I’m close with but people you like...kind of know.

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

Participant 2:

Like going back home and going out, I’ll be like...oh my god... what am I gonna wear, but when I’m at uni I don’t really care. I think when I’m in a comfortable environment I don’t really care but if you’re somewhere you’re not really comfortable in then I do.

Participant 1:

I think uni’s a lot more accepting compared to home. Like people are a lot more close-minded about fashion especially... and here I fell like I can wear what I wanna wear.

Interviewer:

Many people already scrutinise and look down on brands for unsustainable behaviour. Do you think, in future, this could follow on so people look down on one another for what they buy and what they wear?

Participant 6:

Yeah... ‘cos I feel like you do get into a conversation with people about it...so if someone’s really sustainable they will judge you about it. Like when I done a focus group the other day, this girl was like ‘do you do this? Do you do that?’ and I would say something and she’d say like ‘But do you do it for that reason?”. I feel like people are quick to judge. Even if people are the same.

Interviewer:

Do you think the bulk of society will move to be more like that?

Participant 2:

In a very, very, very long time.

Participant 6:

Yeah.

Group:

(inaudible comments)

Participant 1:

Probably when we’ve like got kids, do you know what I mean.

Participant 6:

Yeah, not till we’re older.

Participant 2:

As much as it’s horrible, I just find it so hard to believe that we,re gonna get there... not in our lifetime.

Group:

(agreeing mumble)

Participant 6:

The more problems that arise and like... the worse the waste crisis and climate change gets... then the more people will judge because it will get to a point like it needs to be done.

Participant 1:

It’s not in front of our eyes. Like we’re not seeing people in Bangladesh dying from water pollution or dye pollution from fabrics... Because it’s not there in front of us...

Participant 6:

We’re not connected to it.

Participant 2:

It’s not enough it being on TV like you watch animal programmes and animals dying on TV it doesn’t make you go on... change really.

Participant 3:

I think it’s not until it becomes a mass market thing, like Primark is fully sustainable then there’s not an excuse to not do it if that makes sense.

Participant 6:

If you’re on a budget and you can’t afford sustainable brands then you’re not gonna do it and you can’t judge people for that.

Interviewer:

You’re all probably a least partly aware of the issues of global warming, rising water levels, land mass destruction etc. But did you know that we’re using 70% more resources than our Earth can renew each year and heavily due to humanity’s impact, wildlife populations have declined by 60% in just over 40 years. Fashion is the second most polluting industry globally, after big oil, accounting for 10% of all carbon emissions and 20% of all global freshwater pollution. In the UK alone, 235 million items of clothing went to landfill last year with 3/5 of them having arrived there within under a year of ownership.

Interviewer:

So what do you think about this?

Participant 1:

There’s a lot of statistics to take in.

Group:

(laughing)

Participant 6:

It makes me scared to think like... that’s in such a short amount of time. Like 40 years that’s like in our life time. It’s so bad.

Participant 2:

It’s bad but... I’m not gonna lose sleep over it. It’s scary..yeah it does effect me but at this moment in time there’s not enough going on around the world to change it.

Participant 6:

I think until it starts physically effecting...

Participant 1:

Me.

Participant 6:

... individual consumers.. then they’ll engage with it.

Participant 3:

I don’t think they’re aware of that either. Maybe if they knew that there would be a bigger change.

Participant 5:

They kind of do. What was that thing we watched?

Participant 1:

Stacey Dooley... At the same time like my dad and my step mum have no clue about that stuff.

Participant 2:

I feel like older generations don’t.

Participant 6:

It think it’s portrayed on social media, like you see the petitions for plastic free supermarkets...but for people who don’t use social media, like that older generation, they don’t see all those campaigns as much.

Participant 2:

If I asked my dad he’d be like: ‘I’m gonna be dead there anyway, it doesn’t bother me.’

Participant 1:

Yeah and it’s peak though because obviously they’ve got more disposable income to spend on sustainable products but they’re not the ones online shopping, we are.

Group:

(mumbles of agreement)

Participant 2:

And I also think, there’s so many things you can do to become sustainable like... it’s overwhelming. Even like...just not getting a carrier bag or not getting a plastic water bottle... always having a water bottle with you. Like there’s soo many things to think about so you just don’t do anything.

Participant 3:

I feel like if a major influencer like a Kardashian were to go on about it there would be a massive change.

Participant 6:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

Yeah, that’s true.

Participant 6:

Especially young people and they’re the people you need to target most.

Interviewer:

So, you’re in agreement just from being given that information you’re not really going to change your shopping habits?

Group:

Yeah, no.

Participant 3:

I feel like it needs to be a social change. We are in a generation in a world that just follows influencers. If there was to be a change it has to be someone big like that.

Participant 2:

Even people like Gracefit gets backlash like... you’re wearing leather shoes! She has to be like look I don’t by leather shoes, I buy them second hand. Like... I didn’t think about it like that until I heard that’s what she does. And it’s made me

like... hold on a minute... no one can be 100% sustainable, no one can be 100% ethical. But she’s like I do everything I can. But I’d never really thought about it like that. Participant 1:

Either way even if you spend like £100 on something, it’ll still be bad for the environment in some way.

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

So as a whole, do you think it’s influencers who should lead the way?

Participant 3:

Yeah or like brands. Or new brands like Depop, like re-using influencers.

Group:

(agreement mumbles)

Participant 2:

‘cos even like the ruling our plastic thing using cardboard... things like that.

Participant 6:

They do they cardboard, they do the glue.

Participant 2:

I know it’s not fashion but yeah.

Interviewer:

On average, how often do you visit a physical clothing shop?

Participant 6:

Quite rarely actually.

Participant 1:

I went today.

Participant 6:

Once a week maybe... to actually look around properly like once a month.

Participant 5:

Yeah to properly go shopping like once a month.

Participant 2:

If I properly go, yeah, like once a month but pop in more often for bits.

Interviewer:

So do you think you’d go more often if there was more to do there than just shopping? So if they were putting in...on a basic level like a coffee shop or a game or... incorporating the latest technology. So do you all know what AI, AR and VR is?

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

So if they were incorporating anything like that to enhance your shopping experience?

Participant 2:

I think if I was going somewhere new like if I was going to London and I saw somewhere doing that I’d be like ‘ohhh I wanna go there’.

Participant 4:

Yeah.

Participant 6:

If someone posted on social media here... it would make me go to the vic centre to go and have a look... it would make me intrigued. It depends how good it is like if it’s really well thought out and engaging then I’d probably go again.

Participant 1:

If it became mainstream like everyone was doing it then you’d be like.. oh I wanna do it.

Participant 2:

I think it’s something that will look good on social media.

Participant 6:

Yeah.

Participant 3:

But at home like my nan and I will go to Next every month but there’s a Costa there so we feel like we don’t even have to buy something... it’s just a nice experience.

Participant 1:

You know that Sketch London, I really wanna go there... if a shop was like that omg I’d be f*cking living in it. If it were underwear, omg why don’t they do that!

Interviewer:

So do you think you would visit there often or just a one off thing?

Participant 1:

If it was like in Leeds yeah.

Participant 6:

It’s just money though isn’t it.

Participant 3:

Like the Topshop in London is amazing, they have like food in there, you can get cupcakes, you can get your hair done.

Participant 1:

Really?

Participant 2:

Yeah it’s got like 3 different cafés.

Group:

(inaudible conversation)

Participant 6:

It’s a bit overwhelming.

Participant 1:

Primark mirrors...Jesus Christ.

Group:

(laughter)

Interviewer:

So do you think if brands used the latest tech or a multi sensory experience to present sustainable and environmental information you’d be more likely to listen to that than it just being written or them just telling you?

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 5:

Like who showed us in one of the lectures.

Participant 2:

Potentially but then I still don’t know if I’d actually change because of it. If more people do pay attention it could create a change.

Participant 4:

Yeah it would have some sort of positive impact to it.

Participant 6:

It’s more thought provoking than if it’s just an article slapped across a page like oh share this, share this. ‘cos realistically you’ll share it and then you forget about it 2 minutes later.

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 6:

But if it’s more engaging in your mind you’ll probably remember it more.

Participant 3:

Yeah, I don’t know if this is relevant but you know in like Boux Avenue in the changing rooms they have like the light settings... that makes me go back ... ‘cos it’s fun.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 5:

I did not realise that they have that.

Group:

(inaudible excitable discussion)

Participant 2:

I actually think that nice changing rooms makes people want to try things on.

Participant 5:

Yeah I won’t buy it if I feel bad in there.

Participant 6:

Maybe just like an interactive screen which showed you information which you could like plan out a scenario like... if I recycle this or do this... this will happen later on down the line. Do it this way or just chuck it in the bin... this is what’s gonna happen.

Group:

(excitable discussion)

Participant 2:

The changing rooms in Urban Outfitters, you can tell you’re in Urban Outfitters but like the Topshop changing rooms you could be anywhere.

Participant 6:

But yeah I think that could be really cool.

Participant 2:

Yeah.

Participant 3:

Also in Victoria’s Secret they have a little...

Participant 2:

They have a little bell don’t they.

Participant 3:

...they have a little T-shirt, so you can put the T-shirt on to see what your boobs look like.

Participant 2:

Oh yeah!

Participant 5:

I like reading stuff in changing rooms, I don’t know why.

Participant 1:

I’ve never done that in my life.

Participant 5:

I don’t know if there’s a poster in the changing room I’ll always read it.

Participant 6:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

There’s nothing else to look at really.

Participant 5:

Yeah you might as well read it.

Participant 4:

Is that why you take so long?

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 1:

Yeah, just reading a poster. (mocking)

Participant 3:

But I think in changing rooms if they had like a... if you need a different size or something there was like an electric option to see if they have it. Or even if there’s app experience... there is that somewhere... there’s like a barcode you can scan and it takes you to the website.

“On-trend”

“Vegan/hippy”

“Student”

Undefined

APPENDIX 7 Focus Group 3 Participants

Josh Kjellberg Age: 20 Cleo Ward Age: 21 Kyle Godfrey Age: 21 Nathan Kennall Age: 21 Jake Kjellberg Age: 19

Date:

17/12/2018

Interviewer:

Participant 1:

Road boys.

Participant 2:

Road boys and their needs, with their North Face coats.

Participant 3:

Where gonna go Patagonia and Depop.

Participant 1:

Fair dos I’m with that.

Participant 4:

This one and this one.

Participant 3:

Primark and...the little piece.

Participant 2:

I like pizza.

Participant 5:

That’s food... that’s food.

Participant 2:

That one’s all alone.

Participant 4:

Yeah but I don’t feel like people who wear batman sock... oh, actually no because they might have bought them from Primark. Cos that’s the kind of stuff you get from Primark.

Participant 3:

That and that would probably go.

Participant 2:

Yeah they chew gum cos Reading, they do drugs.

Group:

(inaudible conversation)

Participant 2:

And they’re 12 as well so they probably wear batman socks.

Participant 4:

That’s like vegan stuff and that’s... the opposite.

Participant 1:

That is not vegan.

Participant 4:

Well that’s a yoghurt and...

Participant 1:

It’s a f*cking yoghurt!

Participant 4:

Vegetarian then or... healthy.

Participant 5:

Yeah healthy.

Participant 4:

...and that’s unhealthy.

Interviewer:

Okay so just give me a quick description of each one and why you put them together.

Participant 1:

Actually that one should have probably gone with that one.

Participant 4:

The vegan cookbook.

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 4:

...and...now it makes no sense.

Participant 3:

I was gonna go Patagonia and Depop.

Participant 1:

I was gonna go with that as well.

Participant 4:

Yeah but then that makes no sense.

Participant 3:

I would go MacBooks and then Reading and Leeds.

Interviewer:

Okay so it doesn’t actually overly matter. Just have a brief description.

Participant 2:

Roadmen and white girls.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 3:

I would say Patagonia...

Participant 2:

Shut up, you wear it.

Interviewer:

So these two what are you saying?

Participant 1:

Basic.

Participant 4:

White girls...

Participant 1:

Yeah basic white girls.

Participant 4:

... you know like standard.

Participant 1:

‘This person’ is.

Group:

(laughter)

Interviewer:

These two?

Participant 1:

Erm... Reading and Leeds and chewing gum...drugs I think we had.

Interviewer:

Okay.

Participant 5:

Oh and Primark socks...don’t forget Primark socks.

Participant 4:

See that doesn’t make sense.

Participant 2:

Erm.. a boy whose eating junk food and wearing clothes.

Participant 5:

Yup.

Interviewer:

And this one?

Participant 5:

Vegan lifestyle.

Participant 4:

Healthy.

Participant 3:

Depop though?

Interviewer:

(rearrange pictures) So these were the initial pairs but obviously they were made to trick you. But this was brand-conscious. this was ecoconscious, fun-seeking so either novelty items or experiences an these are impulse purchases. So with this in mind do you think any of your purchases say anything about you and does it match you as a person?

Group:

Erm... (long pause)

Participant 5:

Erm, I mean you like technology... you’re into kind of music and gaming and stuff.

Participant 1:

I’m getting a Switch for Christmas.

Participant 5:

Sick...maybe in that sense?

Participant 2:

Participant 2 you’re into fitness stuff.

Participant 1:

Oh yeah, chunky participant 2.

Participant 2:

There was pizza... I like pizza.

Participant 5:

Yup, erm... I don’t know.

Interviewer:

So from that... would you agree that your purchases can say something bout you?

Group:

Yes.

Participant 4:

Definitely.

Interviewer:

What is your understanding of sustainable clothing? Absolutely no clue.

Participant 2:

Clothes that are sustainable...

Participant 1:

Made from trees.

Participant 2:

...not made by slaves.

Participant 1:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

Vegan.

Participant 1:

Vegan organic.

Participant 2:

Yeah vegan organic. Or ‘this person’. My mate does clothes.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 2:

Not palm oil... that kills the bamboo trees, no not bamboo the baboons... no the orange b*stards.

Group:

(laughter)

Interviewer:

Okay so loosely put it’s doing more with less. So you want to buy less which is going to last longer so that’s going to be recycled or whatever and go on...but you also want less water, energy, chemicals into actually making it. So yeah, that’s a very loose definition. So why do you think a lot of people you age don’t buy into sustainable clothing?

Participant 1:

We’re poor.

Participant 5:

Because it’s unfashionable.

Participant 3:

They don’t care about the environment.

Participant 4:

People care more about brands at this age I think.

Participant 3:

Yeah people care more about brands.

Participant 5:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

It’s not on Depop.

Participant 4:

And especially with things such as Depop like if they find something for cheap they’ll just buy it, not worrying about whether it’s sustainable or not.

Participant 5:

And I don’t think people research what they’re going to buy.

Participant 3:

It’s probably more expensive to buy something that’s more eco-friendly than something not sustainable.

Participant 1:

Yeah I reckon that.

Participant 4:

Well maybe...yeah... probably.

Interviewer:

Have you ever looked?

Participant 4:

Nope.

Participant 2:

Nah.

Interviewer:

Do you ever feel judged or fear what people will think because of what you wear?

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

Participant 5 bullied me about my jogger jeans when I was younger.

Participant 3:

They were sh*t though.

Group:

(laughter)

Participant 2:

Just because they had cuffed bottoms and cuffed tops... they were quite comfortable I wore them all the time.

Participant 1:

To a certain degree yeah.

Participant 4:

Cos at secondary school and that I think people cared a lot more.

Interviewer:

A lot of people already scrutinise brans for unsustainable behaviour. Do you think in future, this could change so people look down on one another for what they wear or buy, like if it’s unsustainable?

Participant 3:

No.

Participant 5:

Probably not.

Participant 3:

No because I think people will always be obsessed with like the right thing... and if the right thing isn’t sustainable then they’re not gonna care about it. They’ll look at you and they’ll be like oh yeah you’re wearing like an eco-friendly jacket... but it’s ugly and it’s not branded. Like... if you’re judging it on the basis of people judging you based on what you wear then I don’t think it’s gonna change at all.

Participant 1:

Look at how much abuse vegans get.

Participant 5:

Yeah.

Participant 1:

So it would be a similar story.

Participant 5:

The fashion industry’s too big for anyone to come in and change it. There’s too many people to change.

Participant 4:

I think fashion will laugh at people being sustainable like people do with people being vegan and that.

Participant 5:

Yeah, exactly.

Interviewer:

So you all agree, that at the end of the day sustainability is almost a secondary thought. Things like price, style and brands come prior to that.

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 2:

The planet is going to die.

Participant 4:

Yeah we’ll look stylish while it goes.

Interviewer:

Participant 4:

Omg.

Participant 1:

Sh*t.

Interviewer:

Fashion is the second most polluting industry globally...

Participant 3:

F*cking hell really.

Participant 4:

I didn’t know that.

Participant 5:

Jesus.

Interviewer:

...accounting for 10% of all carbon emissions and 20% of all global freshwater pollution. In the UK alone, 235 million items of clothing went to landfill last year with 3/5 of them having being owned for less than a year.

Participant 5:

Jesus Christ.

Participant 4:

Omg.

Interviewer:

So what do you think about all this?

Participant 3:

I think now I’ll buy a brand... if I want to buy a brand I’ll think about what you said.

Participant 4:

A little bit but not loads.

Participant 3:

Yeah more than I would have.

Interviewer:

So would it actually stop you buying it?

Participant 4:

Noo...

Participant 2:

I’m too cheap to buy a brand anyway.

Participant 5:

It’s a nice thing to think but I don’t think it’ll go past that.

Participant 2:

Yeah I don’t think it will change anyone’s opinion.

Participant 4:

People have known about all the pollution and that for a long time and not much has changed.

Participant 2:

People are just very selfish.

Participant 4:

People know how much damage we’re doing to the world but no one seems to be changing. Fashion’s gonna be the last thing to change.

Participant 5:

No ones really saying anything about it or no ones actually listening.

Participant 4:

People will say it and they’ll be like ohh it’s terrible but they won’t do much about it like they might buy one sustainable piece of clothing but at the end of the day they’re not gonna buy every piece of clothing that they own.

Participant 5:

Yeah it won’t stop the company from producing unsustainably.

Interviewer:

So saying that do you think it’s more brands responsibility?

Group:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

On average, how often do you visit a clothing shop?

Participant 4:

Not often.

Participant 5:

Once every 2 weeks.

Participant 2:

Yeah I’d probably say that.

Participant 5:

Once a month...once every 2 weeks.

Participant 4:

I buy everything online to be honest.

Participant 2:

Yeah I get most online.

Participant 4:

It’s really rare that I’ll go actually into a shop.

Interviewer:

Would you be more likely to visit a shop is there wasn’t just shopping to do. So on a basic level if they incorporated like a coffee shop or a game... or if they incorporated the latest technology. Are you all aware what AI, AR and VR are?

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 5:

I’d question why it’s going into a clothes shop.

Participant 2:

I don’t know what AR is?

Interviewer:

So for example you know the little animations on snap chat that can pop up and it’s as if it’s dancing on the table in front of you.

Participant 4:

The dancing sausage.

Participant 2:

Oh yeah yeah, that’d be sick.

Interviewer:

Would it make you visit a store any more?

Group:

(inaudible conversation)

Participant 4:

It might make you go in but you wouldn’t buy anything.

Participant 3:

The only reason I’d go into a clothing shop is to buy an item. I wouldn’t care about the experience of going into it.

Participant 4:

I’d only go if I knew the item was there, I’d probably research it before I went in.

Participant 5:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

So at the minute why do you shop more online?

Participant 3:

Easy.

Participant 1:

Quicker.

Participant 2:

Easier and cheaper.

Participant 5:

Convenience.

Participant 1:

It’s usually cheaper.

Participant 3:

You can get cheaper stuff online.

Participant 4:

Even though the quality’s not always up there it’s usually a lot cheaper.

Interviewer:

If you did visit a shop, would you be more likely to pay attention to sustainable information if it was presented like with the latest tech...rather than just written out and shoved in your face.

Participant 5:

Yeah I’d probably listen to it.

Participant 3:

But I feel like you’d only listen to it if you had a certain interest in it. The same message is being shown all the time... it doesn’t matter what platform it’s on if it doesn’t relate to me at all then I’m not really gonna listen to it.

Participant 5:

I don’t know I think if something was actually in my face...

Participant 2:

Yeah like a TV screen you’re just staying at it like ooohh what is this?

Participant 4:

Yeah you might listen to it but I don’t think you’d actually take it on.

Participant 5:

Well...yeah...at the end of the day I don’t think it would actually change that much. But I’d be more inclined to listen to it.

Participant 3:

You care more about what’s going on rather than what it’s actually saying.

Group:

Yeah.

Participant 4:

It wouldn’t change your views straight away would it.

Group:

(agreeing mumbles)

“White girl/standard”

“Vegan/healthy”

“Road man”

“Drugs”

APPENDIX 8 Interview 1

Interviewee: Date: Interviewer:

Naomi Braithwaite

Senior lecturer of Fashion Marketing, Management and Communication at Nottingham Trent University

12/12/2018 (Ethics declaration) As part of my Stage 1 report for Fashion Marketing and Branding, I am undertaking research into the effects of the experience economy on the gap between millennials attitudes and behaviours regarding sustainability and wish to ask you some questions to help me move forward in answering my research question. The interview will be a focus on: Consumption behaviour of sustainable fashion Purchase motivators Products vs experiences This shall be taped and transcribed and the information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my project. Anything you say will be treated with confidence, going no further than for the purpose of this project, your contribution being used to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and transcripts will be kept on password protected devices, both which will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated.

Interviewer:

So as I’m sure you’re aware, more millennials today care more about the environment than ever before but this isn’t reflected in their purchasing behaviours. So, in your opinion, why do you think this gap is present?

Naomi:

I guess more millennials know about it because of the media, I guess for that level of transparency, there’s much more awareness about the implications of plastics, over consumption, ethical issues... but then in terms of it doesn’t translate into behaviours...yeah, I think that is a lot to do with the cost of things, you know sustainable things are expensive. Organic things are expensive. There’s also sometimes, not always...it’s not always very clear what things are, how you can get things as well. Particularly in beauty it’s possibly easier because of the ethical debates have been going on a lot longer so maybe there’s more awareness there. I think it’s too expensive, number one, I think there’s also a sense that it’s hard to know about it, and three I think that very often people think that ‘well I don’t need to do it because someone else will’ or ‘it won’t make a difference. Just if I do that it won’t be enough, it’s a much bigger thing.’

Interviewer:

So do you think in general, consumers are putting the blame on brands?

Naomi:

Yeah, I think consumers probably do blame brands. When I done my research a few years ago on consumer behaviour, I think that’s something they kind of thought well if the brands produce things, it’s their responsibility to check their supply chain, to think about the things that they’re making and I think there’s always the thing of recycling so a lot of consumers do recycle because recycling is better than the bin but recycling can be problematic too.

Interviewer:

So do you agree that it’s mainly brands that need to take action?

Naomi:

Erm... I think it has to be everybody, together. When I did my research and I wrote a report, I found that one of the strong things about it was that it’s not just consumers, it’s not just brands, but it’s also government as well, and it’s all three of those big players, working together for systemic change. I think that it’s so difficult to put the own-as on one. I mean brands have to be responsible but for brands to change their business models is huge. They’ll have to do it eventually but it’s a massive implication when you’re set up, particularly in fast fashion, to make-sell, make-sell, make-sell and keep going and going. Then suddenly you ask people to make less or do rental that’s, you know, really problematic.

Interviewer:

Do you think from a brands perspective, do they not want to do it or is it cost wise?

Naomi:

I think that a lot of brands don’t want to do it because it’s expensive and they don’t want to do it because they can’t see enough of the rewards from it so if you start to see smaller brands, like innovative brands, do it then actually you can show that actually you can make money by making better, higher quality things and sell at a higher price that last longer. You can make money, you can still be prosperous but there aren’t enough examples at the bigger level so that’s a huge implication. Some brands probably feel like that, some probably don’t want to change or just do recycling. Like ‘we’ll pick things up, we’ll have a bin in our shop,’ like H&M, ‘and we’ll return things, we’ll give them an incentive to do that, we’ll give them a £10 voucher so they can buy more in our shop’. But you’ve still got a problem there because recycling is better than the bin, as I said, but it requires energy, if things get ripped apart to recycle the materials it takes energy or taking more virgin materials so it’s not the ultimate solution but it is something I guess.

Interviewer:

Would you say it’s more likely that the smaller innovative brands will get bigger or the big labels now will change to be sustainable?

Naomi:

I think we’ll see more and more little brands coming up and I’ve had some emails recently actually from some new rental companies that are just starting up doing different things, so I think they’re coming up. How they will stay in the market is unclear at this moment. It’s difficult to say whether they’ll get bigger. It would be great if they did but I think it’s a really hard

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thing to envisage at the moment. But I think with the big brand they will have to change, maybe not yet but at some point they will have to. Interviewer:

Moving on a bit...To what extent do you think people’s purchase, either products or experiences, says something about them as a person?

Naomi:

I think hugely. I think that every choice people make is very much about them. Even if it’s an impulse decision it’s driven by a certain need or desire, there’s something behind that so I totally think that, and the same with experience but I think different factors influence what people buy and what people do. That can be changeable according to the object or the moment or the time in life, so it could be family, it could be peers, it could be advertising. I think there’s so many things... or your emotional values, given the functional needs. I think there’s so many drivers but it does say a lot about the person, yes.

Interviewer:

So with that in mind, as people are already critical of unsustainable brands, do you think in future this will move onto people being critical of others for what they buy?

Naomi:

Yes, probably. Through social media and stuff I’m sure that will happen. Yeah.

Interviewer:

Do you think in the near future?

Naomi:

No I don’t think the near future, I think it’s future future. It’s...I don’t know, 2050 is a big landmark year for seeing change and I think it might be around that time that we see that change. It could be sooner but I don’t see it in the next few years.

Interviewer:

How do you think brands can best communicate sustainable practices to consumers in an innovative way?

Naomi:

Hmm...I think there’s lots of different ways. I mean there’s usual ways of communication, that’s not particularly innovative though. But maybe it’s in terms of their products they create, or the manufacturing techniques like 3D printing or there’s a lot of other ways to make things sustainable. I think that’s good way of doing it. A way of giving back as well. There’s a company in America, I think they’re called Everlane, where you can see the whole footprint of a garment, you can see everything about it and its history. And I think those kind of things can be really significant.

Interviewer:

How do they communicate that?

Naomi:

I think they do it through a bar-code or a label or something, I don’t know a lot about them. But you can see exactly how it was made and how far it’s travelled. There’s another example in America called Stufftr, they now do a collection of products and really think about the emotional value and stories embedded in things. You get consumers more engaged in that story. Brands are still doing that emotional connecting with their consumer but thinking abut it in a more sustainable way.

Interviewer:

Do you think if all brands done that consumers would actually pay attention and change how they consume or buy differently?

Naomi:

Probably, yes because they’d be more aware of it. If you got marketing on board too because... sustainable marketing isn’t really done very much or advertising that has a sustainable message. It’s more now but not to a great deal and I think if you had that coming through consumers would be more aware of things and they’d have more choice to do that as well. Of course if your given too much choice you have to kind of contain your choice and have to always be forced into it.

Interviewer:

Do you think consumers are more likely, or equal, to look online or offline to find that information. So if they’re in a physical store will they look their or will they go do research online?

Naomi:

I don’t know, I think it depends on the consumer. You’re looking at millennials aren’t you?

Interviewer:

Yes.

Naomi:

I think they’re more likely to look online for that than in store.

Interviewer:

Do you think if information was fully out there they’d actually look at it?

Naomi:

They might do, if they were interested. I’m not sure they’d look if they weren’t. I think it’s got to become the kind of celebrity culture thing to have that kind of kudos that people will engage in the debates and feel impassioned about it.

Interviewer:

So do you think that will only happen as a group thing, so they feel part of something?

Naomi:

Probably, yeah. I think that the community sense is really important to millennials but also the sustainability debate as well as people don’t necessarily have to take individual ownership. It’s about doing it...individually but collectively as well. So, that could work, yes.

Interviewer:

So almost social pressure...?

Naomi:

Yeah, I think that social pressure can have a big impact. It comes back to the peers influencing values. But then you’ve also got the danger of avoiding the attitude-behaviour gap as people might feel they just have to say it because everyone else is but might not actually do it. So it’s a tricky one.

Interviewer:

Do you think the growing allure of experiences over products could be used to draw more people to sustainable brands?

Naomi:

Probably, yes. I think so. (pause in thought) Yes, I’m hesitating because I suppose it depends what message is being given by the more experience thing so what would invest you to take part in that experience. I’m not entirely sure that millennials engage in experiences because it’s more sustainable or just because it’s an experience and everyone else is doing it and it’s the way that society is pushing us. So it’s a little bit of a tricky one that but I think in the end... yes.

Interviewer:

So should that experience incorporate showing them the sustainable properties?

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Naomi:

Yeah, I think so. I think if you have the underlying messages in there. Experiences seem to be so important to millennials and how it triggers their memory and vales then I think that could work really well.

Interviewer:

So do you have any ideas how that could be implemented for a fashion brand?

Naomi:

That’s a tricky one. Well I suppose if they had a physical stores I think they could have something within their store that has something experiential about it or has a message about sustainability within it whether it’s a sensory exhibition that makes people think about the climate and how it’s changing, or whether its kind of an up-cycling, DIY workshop. So you can think more about how you can invest in the objects you buy from them and how you can make them last longer, how you can repair them. Having those services could work really well. Online, I don’t know. It could be about using different media, maybe film or something to gain people’s attention on these issues. I think people need to physically do something for it to be more meaningful than just reading it or seeing it online. I think you need to really engage in something to make them really remember it.

Interviewer:

So would you agree that they’d go more for the experience, as in for the fun of it, and sustainability is more secondary to them?

Naomi:

It does feel like that, yes.

Interviewer:

So you about the repairing services. Obviously there are brands like Patagonia already doing similar things.

Naomi:

Yeah, they have for a while, yes.

Interviewer:

So it’s still not a mainstream thing, do you think it could become that way?

Naomi:

Yeah I do, I think that the materials have to be better quality in products. I think the problem is, some of the lesser quality products, they’re not really repairable in many ways. But I think if they were more expensive...yeah, it could definitely happen.

Interviewer:

Do you think if all this did happen, fast fashion still would exist on a smaller level?

Naomi:

That’s a difficult question isn’t it. (Pause in thought) I think it would still exist and it still might be quite big but it might have changed in essence what it’s about.

Interviewer:

What do you mean by that?

Naomi:

It might be, still fast, but just better quality fast.

Interviewer:

So would people still buy the same amount in that sense?

Naomi:

Probably not because if it’s better quality, it’s more than likely going to be more expensive so I think they might buy less.

Interviewer:

So are you suggesting maybe similar speed of cycles but maybe less produced each time?

Naomi:

Yeah, yeah. I can’t see the speed cycles necessarily changing dramatically but I think the volumes produced and sold may well change.

Interviewer:

Moving onto the last main question. I’ll start out quite broad. Do you think experiences, within retail, are sustainable?

Naomi:

Depends what they are. I mean many of them will be. I think of like, exercise classes at Sweaty Betty, probably a bad example but that’s pretty sustainable. But I suppose in many ways it’s going to encourage people to buy isn’t it, so there’s that slight contradiction there. erm... I think they can but it just depends on what it is really.

Interviewer:

Do you think consumers could ever get bored of them? So if brands were constantly bombarding them with things to do and see, would they get bored of it? Would they go back to basics?

Naomi:

They could do, maybe. Consumers are very complex. We never thought we’d want to part with buying so much stuff, I mean a lot of people don’t, they can’t get their head around it. But ye a lot of people never thought they’d do things like that. It’s amazing people can change and if everything kind of moves that way then people just go with the flow a lot of the time.

Interviewer:

And finally from a brands perspective, do you think it’s financially viable, financially sustainable if they use a lot of experiences. A lot are used not actually to increase sales but to increase brand image so will draw customers attention that way but ultimately that loses them a lot of money in doing so. So do you think it’s sustainable from that perspective?

Naomi:

Not long term. I think if it’s a one hit wonder and if you’re a new brand and needing to capture attention I think that’s really good but then you do need to do something, you need to make money. It’s whether you make money from selling experiences rather than the products but you do have to sell something otherwise it’s not viable.

Interviewer:

So how long do you think the effects can last from that kind of hit of experience?

Naomi:

God...hmm... I think not very long in society today, people’s instant gratification and loyalty doesn’t stick around too long. So I think you have to move fast, yeah definitely.

Interviewer:

So how do you think you maintain that attention? If you don’t want to keep on bombarding with experiences?

Naomi:

I guess you have to build that emotional connection with them. So you have to think about who they are as an individual, what their values might be, and try and pick up on those kind of things to draw them in and keep them.

Interviewer:

That concludes the interview, thank you very much for your participation.

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APPENDIX 9 Interviewee: Date: Interviewer:

Interview 2

Tim Cooper

Professor for Product Design at Nottingham Trent University, Head of the Sustainable Consumption and Clothing Sustainability research groups

15/01/2019 (Ethics declaration) As part of my Stage 1 report for Fashion Marketing and Branding, I am undertaking research into the effects of the experience economy on the gap between millennials attitudes and behaviours regarding sustainability and wish to ask you some questions to help me move forward in answering my research question. The interview will be a focus on: Consumption behaviour of sustainable fashion Purchase motivators Products vs experiences This shall be taped and transcribed and the information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my project. Anything you say will be treated with confidence, going no further than for the purpose of this project, your contribution being used to reinforce a point that I am making. The recording and transcripts will be kept on password protected devices, both which will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated.

Interviewer:

Tim:

I think the gap reflects ambiguity in regards to what is expected of people and what they communicate about themselves. So I think it’s quite hard for any young person to say they’re not concerned about the environment. So there’s a tendency to express that concern. But attitudes are not always translated into behaviour. If they’re being perfectly honest... in terms of their care, that becomes practically meaningless unless there’s something that drives them to consistently behave in a certain way and there are a lot of reasons why they don’t behave in a consistent way. Discussed in the literature described as the attitude-behaviour gap... it might be to do with for example the cost of what they’re buying...because of the premium attached to, for example, fair trade clothing, free range meat or whatever. There are differentiators between individual attitudes and social norms. For example, peer pressure...so because of their private values they might think one thing but people have to acts as a part of a group as well, as part of their personal behaviour.

Interviewer:

Do you think if one person within a group started buying sustainably, that they’d have an impact on the rest of their social group?

Tim:

They may do. Obviously that will depend on the power of the personality. So for example, within any group you tend to have people who have respect. That respect may be on the sense of a...male sense, it may be a good footballer, a female sense it may be that she picks up lots of blokes or whatever...and those thing lead them to have more power. So yes you might be more likely to follow that person, in other aspects of their life as well.

Interviewer:

So controversially, many believe it’s more the fault of businesses and their lack of information provided. So do you think this is also a part of it?

Tim:

What is it about a lack of information?

Interviewer:

So, the fact that brands don’t offer up their sustainable information or practices about their products. So if that was available do you think people would be more conscious of it and buy more sustainably?

Tim:

There’s certainly evidence that information does make a difference but it isn’t the only factor. And even if it’s provided it may not drive the change that’s needed, for the other reasons I mentioned. So if you inform somebody that a Rolls Royce will last a long time but you won’t be able to afford the Rolls Royce so it doesn’t necessarily help you very much. But I think there are interesting issues arisen by the question concerning how much currently is conveyed to consumers...about the interesting qualities of the products or interesting features of the products. For example, we’re still very unclear what garments are made where. The Environment Committee on the 18th December was investigating the apparent low wages payments to factory workers n factories in Leicester. But the programme didn’t nail down which shop it actually is paying their workers below the minimum wage, so that obviously doesn’t get out.

Interviewer:

Are they allowed to point fingers at specific brands?

Tim:

(laughter) If they could find out. But what they found out in that programme was that there’s quite a complex supply chain whereby it wasn’t always clear who was making garments for who because there were sub-contractors within subcontractors. And obviously companies and brands who are at the top of the chains wouldn’t want to be identified in any case. So if they can pass it down to...well I work for this consultant or this contracting firm and then there’s a sub to them... the more complex it is the easier it is for companies to get away with that. But there are other issues as well say in terms of quality. There’s growing amounts of work being done in Europe and things like the lifetime of products and how durable they’re made. So how good the fabrics are, whether they’re likely to fade during a wash and things like that. So it’s quite hard to label products...certain products in clothing because it varies according to the user. But you’ve seen examples such as Marks & Spencer’s have labelled some T-Shirts recently, guaranteeing them not to fade for a certain number of washes

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at a certain temperature. So you can give signals about quality which would enable the consumer who wants to move away from fast fashion feel assured that by paying a little but extra they are actually getting added quality as well. Interviewer:

Do you think that also could be a bit of ... lack of information. Say Stella McCartney one a campaign showing that people often wash their clothes too much...

Tim:

Yes.

Interviewer:

...So do you think if they offered more information in terms of how to take care of clothes yourself, that would help people in how they consume clothes?

Tim:

Yes, most retailers offer relatively little information about care and maintenance. Say... if you take footwear, you go into a shoe shop you can buy shoe polish but you can’t get them mended there which I always think is rather weird. If you’re buying a shoe why don’t you go to the same place to get them fixed? That would give the impression that they’ve been made to last a long period of time. Yeah, there are some stores, I remember going into John Lewis and they were doing some alterations and whatever but it’s not very upfront. It is a case that most retailers see their role as selling stuff, shifting as many boxes...rather than providing for somebody’s need.

Interviewer:

So do you think it could be a case of switching business models and how they essentially operate?

Tim:

Undoubtedly yes. The fast fashion business model is intrinsically unsustainable because it demands a speed in which the proper checks of quality such as whether a child was used in the production line, can’t be done because everything has to be turned around so quickly because there are so many seasons. So frequent replacements of stock in retail outlets... well it’s online...that’s the other thing. The dull thing about having a physical retail outlet is that...(inaudible comment)...that can lead the way in terms of fast fashion because they don’t have to retain that sort of stock and clear it.

Interviewer:

To what extent do you think that people’s purchases says something about them as a person?

Tim:

In the area of clothing in particular, products are closely associated with identity because it is visibly part of who we are, what we’re wearing and even apparent in difference to fashion will say something about the individual. Yeah in a multitude of ways in which clothing reveals something about the individual, yeah.

Interviewer:

So, considering that people are already critical of brand for unsustainable or unethical practice, do you think in future this could change or expand so society becomes critical of one another of what they buy and wear?

Tim:

(laughter) Well the premise that they are critical is questionable, I think most purchases are fairly uncritical of the lack of sustainability. This morning Radio 4 interviewed loads of consumers about Boohoo who brought in massive profits. And most of them would say they buy from them because I want to wear it a couple of times... at best out of 6 interviews, 1 or 2 said that it’s about the environment here. But even they were kind of caveats of this recognition that that’s the way things are at the moment. I think there’s a long way to go before you can say that consumers really are truly critical of the fashion industry, and in the case of these garments, they were saying if I’m buying a Boohoo dress for £5 or £10 I’m buying it for an evening or 2. It’s become a throw away product essentially. And that is in contrast to many other countries in Europe. We are among the worst in terms of the shear amount of garments we get through and the amount of landfill waste we consequently generate.

Interviewer:

How do you think brands can best communicate sustainable practices to consumers in an innovative way?

Tim:

I’ll go back to the point you made, ‘cos I didn’t really finish talking about it, which was about business models because that’s fairly crucial. We have to think of ways in which brands, retailers, manufactures can carry on making profit but doing so in a way which causes far less waste and particularly landfill waste. So companys need to look at their business model to reflect on the through-put of garments their responsible for and whether they could sell fewer, better quality garments... hoping that they could make higher profit margins on each garment to maintain their profitability with less stuff going through the system. This isn’t easy. There are business models in certain areas, particularly for more expensive, high fashion clothes, particularly with events for example...We’re all familiar with the phenomenon of people putting something onto Instagram or whatever and not wanting to be seen wearing that thing again. So the idea of renting clothes for single use is something that’s grown. There’s quite a variety of different companies doing that at different levels. I’m not sure to the extent of which that trend is going to be maintained. It’s still very much a fringe thing, most of us still own rather than rent. So that’s the first point on models. The second point, in terms of how brands can come to be more sustainable... I think transparency is vital and you see the big gap between... fast fashion companies like Asos and Boohoo... Asos appear to have far more evidence underneath their claims in regards to sustainability than Boohoo do at the moment. And that I think, as the debate continues to grow as it undoubtedly will, I think puts Asos in a better place, a less risky place than a company like Boohoo who apart from claims they say they don’t seem to have kind of systems in place conditioning the same kind of research that Asos are... if there’s an example of 2 companies just because they come in the news a lot recently. We know Asos have been doing a lot with London College of Fashion in terms of business models. So, companies have got to decide where they’re going to go and if you are going to continue with the fast fashion business model then you are going to have to look at that fibre to fibre recycling. Say okay we are going to churn a lot of stuff out because people want to look different every night but it will be 100% recyclable and will therefore minimise its impact. What you can’t do is claim to be concerned about sustainability but neither do long durability nor recyclability.

Interviewer:

Do you think it’s actually possible to be 100% recyclable? Say I know a few years ago the H&M Conscious scheme would only recycle 1% of everything they were getting back, so do you think 100% is possible?

Tim:

Yeah, at the moment there are big barriers. There is further research being looked at in this area at the moment. 100% recycling would be possible because of the (inaudible word) of fibres in the process so generally it’s cotton or polyester or whatever. Overtime as they’re recycled they shrink or degrade, so you need some version input to keep it going. That said, that’s not the big problem, the big problem is getting the stuff back. Getting the materials back. Getting a market to be able to use those products. So getting a market to make sure you can use recycled materials in new garments while maintaining quality. And doing it at the right cost because currently it may well be cheaper to buy virgin materials than to go through that recovery system. And then crucially to look at materials... the mix, the blends. So at the moment poly-cottons are problematic and ultimately a high share of the market and even other parts of the market with percentages of fibres... which are not 100% pure, raises questions about long term recyclability. So there are systemic, economic and technical reasons why fibre to fibre is still quite small scale at the moment. But there’s potential to move considerably in that

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direction if the wills there. Interviewer:

Yeah. So going back a bit on what you said, do you think from a consumers point of view that money is the biggest issue? Obviously the renting scheme requires a fee each month and then the more sustainable items, so charging more per piece and buying less... so I’m looking specifically at millennials who always feel they don’t have a lot of money...

Tim:

Yeah.

Interviewer:

...So do you think it’s actually possible to make them change in either of those ways?

Tim:

I think there is an important issue of managing expectations here. In certain areas... for many products... the move towards sustainability necessarily means paying more. So we’ve got used to having cheap clothing, cheap food and that sort of costs. So for example, we can buy a bit of chicken for £2.50...it’s lived a disgusting life in some factory somewhere...but you can do it. And you can try to use the argument that “oh we’re poor student” and “oh we’re poor”, yeah you can do that if you want to but don’t try to make out that you care about sustainability if you’re doing that. Because we all have budgets that we have to manage and... there are poor people out there I’m not denying that at all... but for many people who might say they can’t afford more, if you looked at their overall budget management you would find that they still have a few beers in the evening, they’re still going out for a glass of wine...blah-de-blah... so a lot of this is about priorities. It’s about really how important is ethics to you when buying. And also it is to do with this reception of well can people make a difference. If I stopped buying my Boohoo dress for £5 or whatever... that’s not going to change the world is it? It’s getting out of that mind set really because obviously the markets do move by collective behaviour. So it goes back to your earlier question about... within social groups whether one person can makes a difference, and as I said earlier well yes it can make a difference who is influential in that group changes. Well look at veganism, for example, there’s an amazing change over the past year or two, when they were still the fringe to today where more and more places are selling vegan food. Which suggests to me that trends are possible but they need a critical mass and certain forces at work to change that and it’s not clear to me why veganism has taken off. But arguably the case for ethical clothing ought to be stronger, It think than vegan food for the very simple reasons that...the life of a very poor person from Rana Plaza or some other place...by most people would be regarded more important than the life of an animal. Not to say that animals aren’t important, I keep chickens, I’m not a vegan... and my chickens as far as I know are as happy as you can become as a chicken. But I made the point because even for young people, millennials in particular, there is an ethical dimension. Three of my children are vegetarians and certainly one that changed about months ago was driven by climate change. And that again was a social thing she happened to work for a development charity and for most of the people there it became part of the culture. Most people there turned because they were trying to live out what they’re doing in their day job.

Interviewer:

So do you think in that case, they all would have changed if everyone around them hadn’t been doing the same? (Pause)

Tim:

Chickens and eggs isn’t it, I don’t know. (laughter)

Interviewer:

Overall what do you believe is more damaging to the environment, the production and consumption of products or experiences and events?

Tim:

Erm... I don’t think you can differentiate the two because we have to look at products as things that provide experiences. There’s very few material artefacts which are just material artefacts and don’t provide some sort of experience with them. In the case of clothing, for example, to go back to what we were saying at the very beginning, decisions being more or less deliberate about saying something about us and what we want to say to other people and how we want to experience the world around us. So I can’t say one is more important than the other because I don’t see the world in that way. I see materials as carriers of meaning, they’re ways of saying something about what we think is important or about our values. So... my jacket is saying something about me, it may not be particularly profound... but it still says something about who I am as a person and what I want my experience of life to be like when I wear this particular jacket.

Interviewer:

Do you think the growing allure of experiences could be used within retail spaces and to draw people to more sustainable brands? So offering them information in a different way.

Tim:

Depends what those experiences are exactly doesn’t it....’cos...

Interviewer:

So a lot of fashion brands at the minute are looking at implementing the latest technology so artificial intelligence or virtual reality and implementing it in some way into their stores to offer more than just a normal shopping experience.

Tim:

Okay so you’re not talking about wearables, for example... electronics within garments.

Interviewer:

No, more about retail spaces.

Tim:

Right okay. Ah...(pause) yes. I think shops...we’ve seen a lot over Christmas about how shops have done badly and I think that there is something quite antiquated about going into a shop with just sort of piles of stuff...just stuff being there and very little about context. Within that, I think that’s where the experience of shopping could be enhanced and part of that could be about sustainability. Although not overtly about sustainability, just out of interest. So I think it would be wrong to focus on explicitly trying to make people think about sustainability when they buy something but to tell a narrative about where it comes from is different, but it might actually say the same thing. So... we see the same thing with our meat, you want to trace it to the farm so it would be nice to buy garment thinking ‘ oh that’s where it was made’. And that’s something you very rarely do unless your buying a highland sweater in Glasgow or something. Most garments who knows where they’re made, at very best they’ve been made in Turkey or something. So I think you could get an interest in garments but also it is going to mean higher costs, because traceability does cost, and higher prices but hopefully that would have the added benefit of there meaning a closer emotional connection between ourselves and our clothes. And as we know emotional durability is just as important as physical durability when it comes to garments as most of garments are very durable but the value of the user attachment is lower than in the past.

Interviewer:

Yep. So, final question. Do you think if these kind of experiences were within retail spaces a lot...so every brand was kind of saying come in, do this, see this...

Tim:

Yes.

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Interviewer:

... Do you think that in itself is sustainable? Say could people get bored or from a monetary aspect of keeping it new and exciting...is it sustainable?

Tim:

I think the world of retailing is going through a cycle and, as I said a moment ago, change is needed to survive. Part of that might be about improving the relationship between the retail staff and the customer so that when you’re going there you are having more of an experience and feeling much more looked after. And again if there were things like mending sessions and other dimensions to the retail space that communicated... something about the product life cycle as a whole... where it’s come from, how you wear it and how you’ll be able to keep it in future, that might help retailers... or in-store physical retailers... to differentiate themselves from the...click-a-button online retailers, who can’t give that personalised kind of service.

Interviewer:

So do you think consumers could ever get bored of doing things like that?

Tim:

Some consumers will never even be interested in it probably but I think we’re in a situation now with the crisis in unsustainable fashion where we have to find ways of changing attitudes and values. Just as an example, now more than half of all eggs sold in the UK are now free range. That was achieved over time... how ever many hundreds of thousands, millions of vegans there are now that showed change over time. Hopefully we’ll see that change with garments in time, in certain patterns of behaviour, buying the cheapest, short lived garments will change. I’m confident change is possible for garments.

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APPENDIX 10 Respondent: Date:

Eva Dragoeva

Email Response 1

Sustainable Fashion Designer

19/12/2018

1. Many studies show that millennials care more about the environment now than ever before, however, this isn’t reflected in their buying behaviours. From your point of view, why do you believe this gap exists (between attitudes and behaviours of millennials)? I think there may be more than one factor. Marketing, advertising and peer pressure may have a lot of weight on how millennials shop. Being seen wearing an outfit more than once may be unacceptable amongst younger millennials. Especially with social media documenting every moment possible. Therefore, focus may be on quantity rather than quality. Slow fashion is more expensive, so it can provide sustainable solutions to ethical and environmental production issues. Therefore, if quantity is important in millennial’s mind - it may be difficult to financially support more sustainable shopping behaviours. Of course there may be other factors. 2. To what extent do you think people’s purchases (products or experiences) say something about them as a person? I don’t think it has a lot to do with anyone’s personal traits. Fast fashion brands try hard to show the glamour and the glitz of shopping through advertising and offers. Shopping to some is a form of escapism. Most people wouldn’t know what it takes to create a garment, to dye textiles or to grow cotton and fast fashion brands rely on this. I think what can be said is that there is lack of connection with products being mostly manufactured overseas. Gone are the days when a customer would know their dressmaker or a shoemaker for example, so customers are not as emotionally invested in the products they buy. But I don’t think this is to do with personality traits – only with the current commercial landscape. 3. Considering that people are already critical of brands for unsustainable/unethical practice, do you think in future this will lead to society becoming critical of one another for what they buy? This is an interesting question and not one I have thought about before. I think people are already critical of one another, while the real problem is what I pointed out when answering question 2. If most brands address that changes need to be made and act to ensure ethical practices when it comes to production, advertising and the environment then consumers may not be critical of one another’s shopping habits. Consumers of course must be prepared to shop a little less but spend a little more for each item they buy. It’s about changing attitudes and - in a way - reversing the process of devaluing clothing and commodities that fast fashion started years ago. 4. How do you think brands can best communicate sustainable practices to consumers in an innovative way? By using social platforms to show which of their practices are ethical. And by being truthful (unfortunately this would indeed be new to some brands..) Virtual reality may be an interesting way to do this. Visual impact and documenting reality is more powerful that vaguely talking about how ethical someone’s practices are. There are brands that do this already. 5. If your suggestions were implemented, do you believe consumers would take more action than at present, why / why not? Yes. However, this will be a process as there is no overnight solution to the big and complex issue that fast fashion (and other industries relying on cheap labour and materials) is (are). 6. Overall, do you believe the production and consumption of products or experiences/events is less damaging to the environment? Why?

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I am very excited for the future in terms of innovation with recycled and sustainable plant-based textiles being widely available rather than a matter of luxury. However, at present most products can be damaging to the environment. Sometimes even when the product is sustainable its packaging may not be. The world has never seen such a high demand for products and services. So, I think using resources we already have is essential. Unfortunately, at present this is not quite so widely available practice. Experiences can vary. Some experiences require fuel and energy, some can be polluting, while others may be greener. And some experiences require products and promote consumption of products. Overall it depends on the product and on the experience â&#x20AC;&#x201C; there are positive and negative examples in both categories. 7. Do you think the growing allure of experiences could be used to draw people to more sustainable brands, offering them information in a new way? If so, do you have any ideas how this could be implemented? I think interactive experiences can provoke peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interest and make them feel more involved. Although I cannot currently think of exact examples. Showing people that as consumers they have the power to change things for the better.

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APPENDIX 11 Respondent: Date:

Alessandro Valle

Email Response 2

Founder of SHIFTING LONDON – an Urban Sustainable Fashion & EcoFriendly Cosmetics Brand

25/12/2018

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APPENDIX 12 Respondent: Date:

Jennifer Revell

Email Response 3

Sustainable Fashion Specialist

16/01/2019

1. Many studies show that millennials care more about the environment now than ever before, however, this isn’t reflected in their buying behaviours. From your point of view, why do you believe this gap exists (between attitudes and behaviours of millennials)? I think this gap exists due to convenience. It is easy to appear as an ‘activist’ by signing online petitions, using social media to follow eco-pages and like and share ideas that you want to believe in but don’t necessarily follow. So social media is to blame for two reasons: for creating this imagined activism that gives the data that millennials care more, but for also creating a need to document your entire life, and therefore want more clothes. Clothes are becoming cheaper and easier to buy, so it is hard to resist these urges and change our habits. The other issue is that it is ‘fashionable’ and ‘cool’ to care about the environment, yet it is also ‘fashionable’ to stay on top of trends. There needs to be legislation to prevent fast fashion brands from working in the way that they do. 2. To what extent do you think people’s purchases (products or experiences) say something about them as a person? I believe we vote for the world that we want to see with our pound. By shopping at supermarkets with ethical values, or local grocers you make what difference you can as a consumer to the food industry. By being vegan and reducing the demand for meat, you make a difference in the agricultural industry. The same goes for clothing and fashion. The more people who choose ethically, the bigger difference it makes until it becomes the norm. I think the purchases a person makes says a huge amount about a person because it is the way they have chosen to contribute to the economy that they want to see. 3. Considering that people are already critical of brands for unsustainable/unethical practice, do you think in future this will lead to society becoming critical of one another for what they buy? I do think this is already happening. I think it is frowned upon amongst peers to buy from fast fashion brands, and hopefully this will lead to a boycott. But I do think legislation needs to happen in order to make tangible change. Although the consumer has power, people will still buy from these brands if they are available. This may be because they are uneducated about the issue, or they simply don’t care. Either way, the public can’t be wholly responsible for change, governmental action needs to happen. 4. How do you think brands can best communicate sustainable practices to consumers in an innovative way? What is important for sustainable brands is to pick their battle. No fashion brand is 100% sustainable as, by producing clothing, there will be a percentage of emissions or waste involved. So the brand either needs to choose sustainable materials- whether this is biodegradable or durable and therefore an ‘investment piece’. Then the other considerations are human rights issues- where clothes are produced and making sure everyone properly paid. The main element is slow fashion. Garments need to be produced in four seasons, rather than weekly, and at higher price that reflect the work that has gone into them. I think the best way to communicate this to consumers is to encourage an emotional bond with their clothes. You have to love each item, don’t buy it unless you love it, it fits perfectly, the colour suits you and you will care for it for the rest of your life. This will make you happier, look better, and save you money! Imagine a wardrobe that made you look your best no matter what you put on! I think there needs to be a link to where the clothes came from - I previously suggested a questionnaire in changing rooms that helped you decide whether you want to purchase the item. You would have to answer things like ‘I am happy with how many gallons of water was used’ ‘I know the person who made this was paid fairly’ ‘I will wear this over 30 times’ That sort of thing.

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5. If your suggestions were implemented, do you believe consumers would take more action than at present, why / why not? I think if these things were implemented consumers would take more action as they would be more educated about their clothing, by considering these questions, the urgency of the ‘impulse buy’ would calm. In this case, fast fashion brands would no longer hold any value and stop producing. 6. Overall, do you believe the production and consumption of products or experiences/events is less damaging to the environment? Why? I believe experiences and events are far less damaging to the environment and there is a move toward that as we can see from the closure of retail stores on the high street in favour of restaurants and cinema. I always encourage any Christmas or birthday gifts to be ‘experience’ based as there is far less waste. An experience happens once, you do not throw it away. It is a memory that you cherish. Furthermore, it funds more beneficial industries such as the arts. With a movement toward eating out more, people care about what they are eating and more mindful about their diet and how this affects the environment, 7. Do you think the growing allure of experiences could be used to draw people to more sustainable brands, offering them information in a new way? If so do you have any ideas how this could be implemented? I do think experiences could draw people to more sustainable brands as slow fashion offers something more special. A slow fashion experience would be more expensive, but you could work with sustainable brands to design and fit something perfectly for you, and that is something that you will cherish.

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APPENDIX 13 Instagram Poll

Date:

14-15 /01/2019 (Poll active for a 24 hour period)

Respondents

YES

84.4%

15.6%

Respondents

135

YES

64.4%

35.6%

Respondents

113

135

137

YES

48.9%

51.1%

APPENDIX 14 Store Observations

Store levels 3 Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2 Casual wear and basketball 1 Just do it runnung, make your own jersey/kit 0 Nike iD - design your own shoes - uses video mapping, gift finding section Music paying: Urban/rap DJ placed by store entrance History of Jordans case Screens advertising Nike app

Store levels 2 TRF - New collection 1 Woman 0 Woman and fragrance -1 Men Music paying: pop/EDM Express desks Wide screens placed throughout store - advertising sale Store window included fake QR code

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Store levels 3 Men’s 2 Men’s 1 Men’s 0 Jewellery -1 Women’s -2 Women’s shoes

Men’s casual and smart floor ‘Order now wear tomorrow’ Vintage area Calvin Klein Haircuts Top floor complementary styling service Student discount Mix of modern and old style lighting

Music paying: light/commercial house/pop DJ placed by store entrance In store franchises: Lola’s cupcakes and bubble tea Lisa Angel Jewllery Stay Shady Gypsy shrine Hershesons- hairdressers and braid bar Blink brow bar House of cb Offspring Illustrated people Kurt Geiger Other inclusions: MUAs - greenery themed area Personal shopping Boutique Piercing and tattoo Benugo cafe Separate defund and exchange booth Stylist changing rooms Interactive screens - rate changing rooms, games to view new collections and enter email to win £250 contest Photobooth

Open space - classic design High ceilings and colomns The Selfridges ‘Corner shop’ - bag display Flower market Food hall Personal shopping Designer room Restaurant and bar

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APPENDIX 15

Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs

(adapted from Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, 1943)

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Basic Needs What Basic needs refer to essential commodities, which provide for physiological needs, that humans need to survive. Fashion referral Basic clothing on our backs provides protection against the elements. However, very few businesses, including fashion brands, would market their products as a ‘commodity’, they’d sell it in a way to offer more. Those on lower incomes will have no choice but to focus allocate their resources here (Van Boven and Gilovich 2003) with little, if anything, spare to advance on higher tiers. Those of lower incomes often feel the only options to them when buying clothing are cheap, fast fashion options, they fail to see the longterm value for money of higher priced, higher durability alternatives.

Psychological Needs

Self-fulfilment needs

What Psychological needs consider needs for human connection to one another and feeling valued and recognised by peers.

What Self-fulfilment needs are very personal and emotion-driven. They are needs “to fulfil a long-held ambition, or act independently of the pressures and opinions of others, or to act for action’s sake” (Sethna and Blythe 2016) which ultimately provide an overriding feeling of happiness and gratification. However, “deciding how to invest our resources to maximise happiness is a challenge,” (Van Boven and Gilovich 2003) partly due to the fact that not all needs can necessarily all be met at once. “Sometimes one must be fulfilled at the expense of another, creating motivational conflict.” (Sethna and Blythe 2016) “In the 21st century – in the consumerist world that we live in – in some cases, self-actualisation needs are actually reducing consumption.” (Sethna and Blythe 2016) At this level the preference begins to become experiences as opposed to products as an “increase in our stocks of material goods produce virtually no measurable gains in our psychological or physical well-being.” (Frank 1999, p.6)

Fashion referral Belonging: Fashion can give a sense of belonging through following trends or being loyal to brands creating a sense of community through a common interest or appreciation. Brands with strong communities carry strong values and often implement external measures to enhance their core sense of self and identity which resonates strongly with their existing customers and target market. “People now belong to many offline and online groups and communities.” (Sethna and Blythe 2016) This is an aspect which should be considered by brands as they can enhance fulfilment of psychological needs via validation on, for example, social media sites. Esteem: “Esteem needs include anything that someone buys as a status symbol.” (Sethna and Blythe 2016). This may also include buying into the latest trend but could also refer to buying luxury or bigname brands. Such items may also be posted on social media sites to gain social recognition but may back fire to give the individual a narcissistic perception instead.

Fashion referral In order to reach this level more than ‘buying things’ is required Van Boven and Gilovich 2003), which is why experiences appear more promising. Experiences appeals to the right hemisphere by offering a source of pleasure, fun and sensation (Holbrook and Hirschman 1982). Fashion brands must offer more than their product. A connected story or experience can enhance self-fulfilment as the purchase becomes not just about a possession. Furthermore, buying sustainably can provide selffulfilment as a feeling of ‘doing good or ‘the right thing’ is met.

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Repeatpurchase

Postpurchase

POST

Purchase

DURING

Consideration Justification

PRE

Unawareness Awareness Interest/education

ATTENTION

Buying Process

REPEAT

APPENDIX 16

Sustainable purchases

Experiential purchases

There are greater issues with buying sustainably as many lack the required knowledge, or the information isn’t made available by brands. A poor level of transparency within the fashion industry means people aren’t always aware of planetary issues associated with their purchases. Attention can be gained by social media protests, with campaigns or particular brands being called out and scrutinized [Appendix 5], bloggers ‘doing the right thing, such as GraceFit [Appendix 6 Participant 2] or TV documentaries, such as Stacey Dooley’s Dirty Secrets of Fashion [Appendix 6]. However, the effects of these can be short term as people often forget or other things become more important to them [Appendix 5; 6; 7].

Experiences don’t require knowledge; the right hemisphere dominates, luring consumers in via an emotional interest. In these cases, consumers don’t necessarily have to have previous knowledge or a need to research a good or event etc. prior to the purchase as they present a means of pleasure, fun and sensation seeking (Holbrook and Hirschman 1982).

Great justification may be needed with a sustainable purchase due to the hefty price point attached. Monetary concerns are a major issue for millennials [Appendix 6; 7; 9; 10; 11 and 12] so often will opt for fast fashion alternatives as they are easier to justify due to their quantity over quality mind frame.

Justification of a purchase can take place when waiting. When waiting, anticipation of experiencial purchases is greater than that of possessions (Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014). Consumers derive greater happiness, pleasantness, excitement and less impatience (Kumar et al.). Due to this, consumers are less likely to back out or change my mind about making the purchase.

During the purchase, millennials in particular, may still be very concerned about the monetary aspect of their purchase. A great deal of comparisons can be made as they feel they could be a lot more pieces for the same price, but of lower quality. Furthermore, due to their typical buying habits, they will find themselves making great comparisons to others their age around them who primarily buy fast fashion apparel.

During experiential purchases, fewer social comparisons evoked and greater social connection is formed (Caprariello & Reis, 2013; Kumar & Gilovich, 2014b; Kumar, Mann, & Gilovich, 2014; Van Boven, Campbell, & Gilovich, 2010). (see Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014). The monetary value dictates the overall value of products more than experiences. Experiences can present a greater emotional connection and value therefore increasing its overall perceived value.

Post purchase the consumer will reap benefits of a sustainable purchase through feeling of doing a ‘good thing’. Furthermore, they’ll feel satisfied with their purchase in the long-term as they realise its longlasting nature in comparison to fast fashion pieces.

There can be a fleeting sensation with experiences as there is no tangible aspect (Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014) [Appendix 8]. This is why people often buy into gifts or souvenirs of the experience in order to feel they have something to hold on to, but this is not psychologically true. Experiences do present a post-purchase positive in the form of memories. “The value of the experience lingers in the memory of any individual who was engaged by the event,” (Pine and Gilmore 2011) which ultimately means that, experiences “tend to produce more enduring satisfaction than do possessions.” (Gilovich 2003) (see Kumar, Killingsworth and Gilovich 2014) These memories mean thinking about experiential purchases gives people more pleasure than thinking about material purchases and they think about the deeper meanings (Van Boven and Gilovich 2003). One respondent in Van Boven and Gilovich’s (2003) research said that “material possessions, they sort of become part of the background; experiences just get better with time.”

If a person makes one sustainable purchase, they are likely to again. They show attributes of a caring nature towards the planet and will feel satisfied post purchase and may want to obtain this sensation again.

“The second time you experience something, it will be marginally less enjoyable than the first, the third time less enjoyable than that and so on until you finally notice the experience doesn’t engage you nearly as much as it once did.” (Anonymous 2015) Commoditisation is a big risk for experiences as they become less enjoyable each time an individual experiences them whereas they still may derive the same amount of pleasure from purchase of a product.

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APPENDIX 17 PESTLE Analysis

Decreasing wildlife populations

Transparency

SOCIAL

ENVIRONMENTAL

Earth overshoot day

POLITICAL

Brexit

What’s happening? Britain is due to leave the EU on 29th March 2019. The fashion industry “has made it no secret of its desire to remain in the EU.” (Tobin 2018) Within the UK, 96% of the sector voted to remain in the EU (Kent 2019). Asos (by nearly 40%), Boohoo (by 10%), Next and JD Sports have all already experienced share price slumps in what’s being described as the “worst November in living memory” (Sports Direct tycoon, Mike Ashley). This is due to “unprecedented level of discounting” in attempt to match prices of their high street rivals but this was not met by higher items purchased per basket. (BBC News 2018) “In fact, economic uncertainty plus weaker consumer confidence had led to “the weakest growth in online clothing sales in recent years”.” Nick Beighton, Chief executive of Asos. “It’s probably no coincidence Asos’s key demographic of 20-somethings generally harbour more concerns over the future of the economy post-Brexit than their parents.” George Salmon, equity analyst at Hargreaves Lansdown. (Jack 2018) “In fact, economic uncertainty plus weaker consumer confidence had led to “the weakest growth in online clothing sales in recent years”.” Nick Beighton, Chief executive of Asos. “It’s probably no coincidence Asos’s key demographic of 20-somethings generally harbour more concerns over the future of the economy post-Brexit than their parents.” George Salmon, equity analyst at Hargreaves Lansdown.

“We are using 1.7 Earths.” (Earth overshoot day 2018) responsible for 8% of global climate pollution.

Wildlife populations have declined by 60% in just over 40 years, heavily due to humanities impact (WWF 2018).

“Consumers want to know everything about a product.” (Kline 2016) Of the brands Fashion Revolution analysed in their Transparency Index, on average brands have increased their transparency score by 5% from last year but 12 have scored 0%, increasing from 3 in 2017 (Fashion Revolution 2018).

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Implications Business perspective - Increased costs The fashion industry is highly dependent on imported materials, investment and international talent. A hard Brexit would mean tariffs of about 11%, or just over £1 billion more each year (Tobin 2018), and potential labour shortages. This mean the fashion industry within the UK could experience potentially, severely increased costs. Furthermore, online retailers are now experiencing the same struggles offline retailers are due to consumers spending less due to their uncertainty. Consumer perspective - Ongoing uncertainty Ongoing uncertainty around Brexit is meaning people are spending less. Millennials, in particular, are experiencing higher levels of uncertainty and must allocate their spending wisely to avoid jeopardizing their future should deals conclude unfavourably. “The UK imports almost £10 billion worth of clothes and shoes from Europe each year.” (Tobin 2018) If a hard Brexit takes place consumers may need to resort to more localized fashion brands in order to minimise the impact experienced.

Our current rate of consumption is unsustainable; if we continue resources will run out. In the coming years it will become vital to view materials differently, extracting new resources scarcely and making better use of those we already, which can be done at every stage of a products life [Appendix 20]. As this issue becomes more prominent it’s likely that raw materials will become increasingly expensive, therefore brands should consider changing their ways as soon as possible as to avoid this effect.

An abundance of secondary micro-plastics derived from textiles are showing up in marine organisms and seawater samples with increased regularity (Mowbray 2018). As these are released during the laundering of garments [Appendix 20] the fashion industry must be, in part, to blame for this loss. It’s therefore important for consumers to become better educated regarding laundering and maintenance of their garments in order to minimise this effect.

As the strategy director of brand consultancy Siegel+Gale recently put it: “Knowing how and where something is made gives it social currency.” (Siegle 2018) As consumers demand more, this will become an increasingly important aspect for brands to consider and follow. It’s possible in future consumers will refuse to buy products all together if the brand fails to provide the information they desire.

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Social media pressure

“Around 16% of sales are now online, and that share is expected to rise to 40% by 2030.” The new mantra on the high street is to focus on “what Amazon cannot do.” (Camberley 2018) “According to analytics firm Euromonitor, the fashion industry is the retail sector facing perhaps the greatest amount of turbulence over the coming months.”

Importance of ‘instagrammable’ aesthetics

Fast fashion as an economic necessity

ECONOMIC

LEGAL

TECHNOLOGICAL

SOCIAL

“Nearly a quarter of 16- to 24-year-olds said they would only be pictured in an item one to three times on social media before discarding it.” (Siegle 2018)

Online vs offline

What’s happening?

Millennials today love to post exciting things they do, 41% even say they’ve done something just to share a photo of it (YPulse and Youth Sight 2017). “Social sharing releases a higher dose of “feel-good hormone” oxytocin than in-person interactions,” (YPulse and Youth Sight) making it a pleasant action for existing customers while generating awareness and acquiring new customers for the brand. “The influencer economy on Instagram alone is valued at $1 billion,” (Berezhna 2018) showing the power of social media as a means of marketing.

Some believe that the only way to reduce the planetary impacts of the fashion industry is through greater legislation, restricting brands from producing unsustainably [Appendix 6 Participant 1; Appendix 8].

For some fast fashion isn’t a frivolous purchase but rather all they feel they can afford. These individuals don’t follow the social norm to only wear pieces a handful of time before throwing it away for something new but rather will wear them until it’s absolutely necessary to replace it.

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Implications Social media platforms, such as Instagram, have created a mind frame which considers ‘outfit repeating’ social suicide. Once pictured in an outfit, millennials feel they cannot wear, and definitely cannot be pictured in it, again. Consequently, the throw-away culture has become a norm, pushing demand for low cost, low quality garments intentioned only to be worn for a night a handful of nights.

High street stores can no longer view their spaces as a means to simply ‘shift stock’, they must offer consumers more, a different aspect which cannot be achieved online. Online retailing is triumphing in the monetary aspects and offering convenience therefore the high street must find another aspect to optimise in order to retain or gain new customers.

When considering millennials, ‘instagrammability’ is now a currency for brands which can act as a powerful form of free, subconscious marketing (although influencer marketing can be paid for too). Brands should make use of this by ensuring their products and spaces are aesthetically pleasing to engage their customers, making them want to post about it to bring about a more joyful experience while encouraging others to visit/buy.

Greater legislation is a long-term solution, as little is being discussed currently regarding imminent laws. However, if they did come into practice it could drive up prices for both brands and consumers, therefore governments will be cautious about implementing them as to avoid the back fire of such laws.

Sustainable fashion brands should be aware of such individuals with very low disposable incomes. They must cater to their needs by ensuring affordable pieces are available while keeping balance to ensure fair pay for workers. The best way to do so is emphasising products durability to customers, showing that it’s no more expensive in the long term than buying fast fashion but is better for the environment.

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APPENDIX 18

Water and chemicals used in dyes and textile production

61% of non-organic cotton pickers show direct health effects from pesticides during picking season. (Somers 2018) “Textiles production (including cotton farming) also uses around 93bn cubic metres of water annually, contributing to problems in some water-scarce regions. EllenMacArhur (Laville 2017)

Poor conditions and pay for workers

Pesticides and water used growing cotton

The “take, make, and waste” model of the fashion industry always requires new inputs (MelleryPratt 2017). “At present, less than 1 percent of the materials used to create clothing is recycled into new clothing, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation” (Malik Chua 2018). “Conventional cotton farming is responsible for 11 per cent of the world’s pesticide consumption.” (Goworek et al. 2012) “Even if the apparel and footwear industry attains its ambitious goal of recycling 40 percent of fibers by 2030, it will cut emissions by only 3 to 6 percent, ClimateWorks and Quantis said.” (Malik Chua 2018)

10% of all carbon emissions as well as 20% of all global freshwater pollution as a result of the treatment and dying of textiles (The Future Laboratory 2016). By 2050 the industry will be responsible for quarter of all carbon emissions (Siegle 2018). To make a pair of jeans and a t-shirt takes 20,000 litres according to the WWF. (Mellery-Pratt 2017) “The Aral Sea in Central Asia has shrunk to just 15% of its original volume due to the vast quantity of water required for cotton production and dying.” (Somers 2018) The fashion industry “produces greenhouse gas emissions of 1.2bn tonnes a year, larger than that of international flights and shipping combined.” (Cartney-Morley, 2018)

Minimum pay for workers per month: Cambodia: $140 (seventy cents an hour based on a 50-hour workweek) Bangladesh: $68 India: $105 (Fashion Revolution 2016)

Energy used in outlets and transport

DISTRIBUTION & RETAIL

FABRIC/GARMENT PRODUCTION

MATERIALS

Issue

Even minimum wage cannot be enough for workers to cover housing costs, feed their families and healthcare, etc. but less than 25% even receive this (Somers 2018). In Bangladesh, 75% of female workers reported verbally abused at work and half had been beaten (Somers 2018).

In 2006, Key Note said that over 95% of garments purchased in the UK were manufactured offshore (Goworek et al. 2012).

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Issues of the Fashion Industry Advances

Why isn’t more being done?

Brands such as M&S and People Tree (Cottonedon.org, 2018), use organic cotton. Organic cotton isn’t as chemical-intensive as conventional, in which those used are classified as some of the most toxic by the Environmental Protection Agency and can “have tremendous impact on the earth’s air, water, soil, and the health of people in cotton-growing areas.” (Organic Cotton Plus, 2018) Even fast fashion retailers, such as New Look, Asos and Monsoon (Goworek et al. 2012) make use of the organic alternative showing that fast and sustainable fashion can co-exist, however organic still only makes up a small proportion of the global cotton industry.

COST Organic cotton is much more expensive to go than conventional cotton. For this reason, both brands and consumers are slow to change as in the current retail space there will always be someone else offering ‘the same’ for cheaper. COST and UNEDUCATED CONSUMERS New materials are still in the innovation stage. They’ll require further investment and may take time for society to become accepting and willing to the strange change.

Innovative brands are finding new ways to use different materials such as fruit waste, algae and fungi to make textiles.

Levi’s water<less jeans claim to use up to 96% less water (Levis Waterless 2019) and encourage their customers to only wash their clothes once every 2 weeks.

UNEDUCATED CONSUMERS Levi’s campaign highlights the issue that consumers over wash their clothes. Despite making some difference, the majority of people still do this as they don’t know any better.

Consumers are demanding to know where their clothes have come from with campaigns such as #whomademyclothes?

TRANSPARENCY ISSUES Transparency issues have come to light however issues are still very prominent. Big brands are able to pass blame due to sub-contractors within sub-contractors [Appendix 9]. Tracking where materials and garments have actually come from can be very difficult.

Since the Rana Plaza disaster, 1,300 Bangladesh factories inspected for safety, 800 of which have been upgraded. However, last year alone still saw 426 garment workers die in a total of 321 workplace incidents. Many are still unable to unionise, those who do risk their lives. (Hall 2018) Brands still rely on external organisations to audit and assess their supply chain (Environmental Audit Committee 2018).

3D printing presents the opportunity for more localised production, eliminating the need for excessive shipping and energy use.

COST 3D printers are still very expensive. Only when they become more affordable will 3D printing of garments become more mainstream.

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Laundering

USE

Issue Detergents, energy and water used Fletcher (2008) found that “domestic laundering can be responsible for up to 82 per cent of the energy used during a garment’s lifecycle” (see Goworek et al. 2012). “In the UK, 97% of households now have a washing machine,” and we over wash our clothes giving a high carbon footprint per person (Faramarzi 2018

Textiles to landfill

DISPOSAL

Poor utilisation of garments

Microfibres released during laundering During laundering of synthetic materials (e.g. polyester, nylon and acrylic) thousands, even millions of fibres of plastic (numbers vary from source to source) are released into our water system which are too small to be picked up by treatment plants. An estimated 15-30% of new plastic littering our oceans each year is that shed from clothing (Blanchard 2018). “Half a million tonnes of plastic microfibres are released per year from washed clothes - 16 times more than plastic microbeads from cosmetics - contributing to ocean pollution.” (Laville 2017)

“In the UK, the average number of times a garment is worn before retiring has dropped by 36% in the past 15 years.” (Harper 2018)

UK alone, 235 million items of clothing went to landfill last year, 3/5 of which ended up there within under a year of ownership (Harrabin 2018). The estimated cost of the UK landfilling clothing and household textiles each year is about £82m. (Laville 2017) It’s estimated that $460bn worth of clothing is thrown away which could be continued to be worn (Laville 2017). “Many under-25s are responsible for apparel going to waste for reasons as minor as loose stitching or missing buttons.” (Styles 2018)

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Advances

Why isn’t more being done?

From 2007, as part of their climate change campaign Marks & Spencer encourage customers to wash their clothes at 30C in order to reduce energy use (Osborne 2007).

UNEDUCATED CONSUMERS Despite improved efforts by consumers, many washing at lower temperatures, there’s still much confusion regarding the frequency of which garments need to be washed.

New fashion-focused laundry services are offering an ‘instagrammable’, eco-friendly laundering service (Faramarzi 2018). Bringing back traditional launderettes means garments are washed appropriately, as most customers don’t possess the required knowledge about their garments and therefore over wash.

Alternative materials are being researched which won’t shed during washing, including materials made from fruit peel. Such innovations are being made possible due to technological advancements.

LACK OF KNOWLEDGE Synthetic fabrics, such as polyester, are very commonly used within fashion. More research is needed in this area but even when knowledge is obtained, it will take time for brands to phase out the use of such materials.

Renting schemes (e.g. Rent the Runway, Girl Meets Dress, Front Row) which allow users to rent items from a fashion library, often which would otherwise be out of their price range, to then return for something new on a regular basis. Many also take care of the dry-cleaning process too in order to stay eco-friendly and ensure the quality endurance of their products. This isn’t a bad business model for designers either, thinks Sara Arnold, founder of subscription-only rental service Higher Studio: “We don’t own the stock but split the earnings with the brands when items are rented,” she said. “We want them to be able to earn from quality and durability rather than the quantity sold.” (Harper 2018) In addition, “according to research by Westfield, seven out of 10 UK shoppers would pay to rent “the hottest fashion item of the moment”” (Harper) meaning this business model could be set for a scalable rise, the consumer interest is already present. On the other hand, only 1/8 of these were driven to this move for the sustainable aspect of the proposition.

CONSUMER HABITS Consumers are stuck in their ways and owning is considered the norm. Changing mainstream attitudes and behaviours to rent instead of buying will take a long period of time and must present consumers with a greater perceived benefit as they currently feel they’d be losing the privilege of ownership.

“Poshmark, The RealReal and ThredUp, which have helped make secondhand clothing an attractive and viable option.” (Malik Chua 2018)

CONSUMER HABITS Currently consumers value quantity over quality. They want to be up to date with the latest trends, meaning they buy new as opposed to second hand, and can only be seen wearing items a handful of times [Appendix 17, Social], pushing the throwaway culture.

Berntsson said H&M looks to grow by gaining market share, rather than encouraging customers to consume more. “From a business perspective we don’t want to encourage a throwaway or overconsumption attitude. We want our customers to come to our stores to buy the garments they really love and will keep in use and care for a long time, and we want to offer an easy solution when the garments are no longer wanted.” (Malik Chua 2018)

UNEDUCATED CONSUMER Due to the low-priced fast fashion available, millennials often feel it easier to buy new than to repair what they have as they don’t possess the textile skills that previous generations relied on.

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APPENDIX 19 Ethical clearance

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APPENDIX 20 Consent Forms

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REFERENCES

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Journal articles • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

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Reports • • • •

Business of Fashion (2018). The State of Fashion 2018. Fashion Revolution CIC (2018). Consumer Survey Report - November 2018: A baseline survey on EU consumer attitudes to sustainability and supply chain transparency in the fashion industry.. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/201118_ FashRev_ConsumerSurvey_2018.pdf [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. Fashion Revolution (2018). Fashion Transparency Index: 2018 Edition. [online] Available at: https://issuu.com/fashionrevolution/docs/fr_ fashiontransparencyindex2018?e=25766662/60458846 [Accessed 25 Dec. 2018]. H&M Foundation (2018). Circular x Fashion Tech Trend Report 2018. [online] Global Change Award. Available at: https://issuu.com/ globalchangeaward/docs/circular_x_fashiontech_trend_report [Accessed 30 Oct. 2018].

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Mintel (2018). Clothing Retailing - UK, October 2018 - Executive Summary. Owen, S. and Napoli, C. (2018). Instagram Influencers: Digital Avatars. [online] WGSN. Available at: https://www.wgsn.com/content/board_ viewer/#/82102/en/page/1 [Accessed 8 Jan. 2019]. Powerful Thinking (2016). The Show Must Go On: Environmental Impact Report and Vision For the UK Festival Industry. [online] Powerful Thinking. Available at: http://www.powerful-thinking.org.uk/site/wp-content/uploads/TheShowMustGoOnReport18..3.16.pdf [Accessed 19 Jan. 2019]. StyleSight Trend Board (n.d.). Millennials: Generation Me, Generation Free. Textile Exchange (2017). ORGANIC COTTON MARKET REPORT 2017. Textile Exchange. The Economist, Economist Intelligence Unit (2008). Doing good Business and the sustainability challenge. [online] Available at: http://graphics. eiu.com/upload/sustainability_allsponsors.pdf [Accessed 7 Dec. 2018]. The Economist (2018). A Load of Rubbish. Waste. [online] Available at: http://images.go.economist.com/Web/EconomistConferences/%7B6817e59df09a-44f4-95bd-f4b1a1ef7c42%7D_a_load_of_rubbish.pdf [Accessed 7 Dec. 2018]. The Future Laboratory (2016). Sustainability Summit Report. The Happiness Halo: The unexpected benefits of applying behavioral science to experience design (2018). The Happiness Halo: The unexpected benefits of applying behavioral science to experience design. Lippincott. The Nielsen Company (2015). The Sustainability Imperative: New Insights On Consumer Expectations. [online] Available at: https://www.nielsen. com/content/dam/nielsenglobal/dk/docs/global-sustainability-report-oct-2015.pdf [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. WWF. 2018. Living Planet Report - 2018: Aiming Higher. Grooten, M. and Almond, R.E.A.(Eds). WWF, Gland, Switzerland. YPulse (2017). Millennial Trendscape. YPulse and Youth Sight (2017). The Influencer Effect: An International Perspective.

Newspaper articles • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

AFP Relax News (2018). Burberry, H&M and Stella McCartney unite to fight global warming. Yahoo News. [online] Available at: https://www.yahoo. com/amphtml/news/burberry-h-m-stella-mccartney-unite-fight-global-104603545.html?guccounter=1 [Accessed 17 Dec. 2018]. BBC News (2018). Asos profits hit by fashion price-cutting. BBC News. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-46590130 [Accessed 21 Jan. 2019]. BBC Newsbeat (2018). Can you be sustainable if you’re into fast fashion online?. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/newsbeat45766366?intlink_from_url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/topics/ cx1m7zg05q3t/fashion&link_location=live-reporting-story [Accessed 12 Oct. 2018]. Blanchard, T. (2018). Worn out: can fast fashion be sustainable?. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://amp.theguardian.com/fashion/ shortcuts/2018/dec/03/worn-out-is-fast-fashion-more-sustainable-than-we-think [Accessed 23 Dec. 2018]. Butler, S. (2018). ‘Everyone I know buys vintage’: the Depop sellers shaking up fashion. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www. theguardian.com/business/2018/oct/20/everyone-i-know-buys-vintage-the-depop-sellers-shaking-up-fashion [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Camberley (2018). As shoppers go online, high streets reinvent themselves. The Economist. [online] Available at: https://www.economist.com/ britain/2018/06/14/as-shoppers-go-online-high-streets-reinvent-themselves [Accessed 18 Jan. 2019]. Cartney-Morley, J. (2018). Stella McCartney: ‘Only 1% of clothing is recycled. What are we doing?’. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https:// www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/apr/18/stella-mccartney-designer-ethical-fashion-interview [Accessed 19 Jan. 2019]. Cox, J. and Musaddique, S. (2018). Death of the British high street? Store closures and job cuts paint grim picture for 2018. The Independent. [online] Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/news/business/analysis-and-features/uk-high-street-store-closures-retail-job-losses-2018next-toys-r-us-new-look-maplin-a8270506.html [Accessed 18 Jan. 2019]. Faramarzi, S. (2018). Spin-off: why fashion is reviving the launderette. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/ shortcuts/2018/mar/18/spin-off-why-fashion-is-reviving-the-launderette [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Harper, L. (2018). Check it out: why the smart set are now renting their clothes. The Observer. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/2018/dec/22/fashion-libraries-ethical-clothing-borrowing [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Harrabin, R. (2018). Fast fashion is harming the planet, MPs say. BBC News. [online] Available at: https:// www.bbc.co.uk/news/scienceenvironment-45745242 [Accessed 12 Oct. 2018]. Hunt, A. and Wheeler, B. (2019). Brexit: All you need to know about the UK leaving the EU. BBC News. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/ news/uk-politics-32810887 [Accessed 21 Jan. 2019]. Jack, S. (2018). Asos profits hit by fashion price-cutting. BBC News. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-46590130 [Accessed 20 Dec. 2018]. Khomami, N. (2018). Burberry destroys £28m of stock to guard against counterfeits. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian. com/fashion/2018/jul/19/burberry-destroys-28m-stock-guard-against-counterfeits [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Laville, S. (2017). Stella McCartney calls for overhaul of ‘incredibly wasteful’ fashion industry. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www. theguardian.com/environment/2017/nov/28/stella-mccartney-calls-for-overhaul-of-incredibly-wasteful-fashion-industry [Accessed 19 Jan. 2019]. Nike (2013). How Nike Flyknit revolutionized the age-old craft of shoemaking. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ sustainable-business/partner-zone-nike1 [Accessed 7 Jan. 2019]. Osborne, H. (2007). M&S promotes cooler clothes wash. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/business/2007/apr/23/ retail.marksspencer [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. Reality Check team (2018). Can music festivals go green?. BBC News. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/scienceenvironment-44549392 [Accessed 19 Jan. 2019]. Shvedsky, L. (2018). Patagonia’s CEO is donating company’s entire $10M Trump tax cut to fight climate change. Upworthy. [online] Available at: https://www.upworthy.com/amp/patagonia-s-ceo-is-donating-company-s-entire-10-m-trump-tax-cut-to-fight-climate-change [Accessed 17 Dec. 2018]. Siegle, L. (2018). Influencers can combat fast fashion’s toxic trend. The Observer. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ fashion/2018/oct/07/fashion-influencers-can-change-fast-fashion-toxic-trend [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Siegle, L. (2018). Ten ways to make fashion greener. The Observer. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/jun/24/tenways-to-make-fashion-greener [Accessed 25 Dec. 2018].

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Stephenson, W. (2018). Why plastic recycling is so confusing. BBC News. [online] Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/scienceenvironment-45496884 [Accessed 20 Dec. 2018]. Styles, D. (2018). Ecotextile News on 2018. Ecotextile News. [online] Available at: https://www.ecotextile.com/2018122123944/shows-events/ ecotextile-news-on-2018.html [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Styles, D. (2018). Survey highlights generational split on textile waste. Ecotextile News. [online] Available at: https://www.ecotextile. com/2018082923693/fashion-retail-news/survey-highlights-generational-split-on-textile-waste.html [Accessed 23 Dec. 2018]. Sumner, M. (2017). IT MAY NOT BE POSSIBLE TO SLOW DOWN FAST FASHION – SO CAN THE INDUSTRY EVER BE SUSTAINABLE?. The Independent. [online] Available at: https://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/fashion/it-may-not-be-possible-to-slow-down-fast-fashion-so-can-the-industryever-be-sustainable-a7970031.html [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. The Guardian (2018). The Guardian view of ultracheap clothes: costly to society. [online] Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/ commentisfree/2018/nov/30/the-guardian-view-of-ultracheap-clothes-costly-to-society [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Usborne, S. (2017). Just do it: the experience economy and how we turned our backs on ‘stuff’. The Guardian. [online] Available at: https://www. theguardian.com/business/2017/may/13/just-do-it-the-experience-economy-and-how-we-turned-our-backs-on-stuff [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018].

Magazine articles • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Websites • • • • • •

Allwood, E. (2018). Op-Ed | The Dark Side of Social Media. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/opinion/op-ed-the-dark-side-of-social-media [Accessed 4 Jan. 2019]. Arnold, S. (2018). Op-Ed | The First Step to Starting Your Career in Sustainable Fashion. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https:// www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-the-first-step-to-starting-your-career-in-sustainable-fashion [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Baker (n.d.). Trends in sustainability. Business Communications. [online] Available at: https://www.baker- brand.com/wp-content/uploads/Trendsin-Sustainability.pdf [Accessed 18 Oct. 2018]. Berezhna, V. (2018). The Brand-Influencer Power Struggle. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ articles/intelligence/the-brand-influencer-power-struggle [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Blanks, T. (2016). Spelling it Out at Stella McCartney. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/ fashion-show-review/just-in-stella-mccartney-springsummer-2017 [Accessed 19 Jan. 2019]. Bloomberg (2018). Op-Ed | Is Fashion’s Eco-Consciousness More Than a Label Yet?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/op-ed-is-fashions-eco-consciousness-more-than-a-label-yet?source=bibblio [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018].

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Cottonedon.org. (2018). Brands that support organic cotton : Have you cottoned on yet?. [online] Available at: http://www.cottonedon.org/ whoscottonedon [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. Earth Overshoot Day. (2018). Earth Overshoot Day 2018 livestream. [online] Available at: https://www. overshootday.org [Accessed 26 Oct. 2018]. Fashion Revolution. (2016). Introducing The Garment Worker Diaries - Fashion Revolution. [online] Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution. org/garment-worker-diaries/ [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Hahn-Petersen, L. (2018). Op-Ed | Millennials Say They Care About Sustainability. So, Why Don’t They Shop This Way?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-millennials-say-they-care-about-sustainability-so-why-dontthey-dont-shop-this-way [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Howard, B. (2014). Aral Sea’s Eastern Basin Is Dry for First Time in 600 Years. [online] News.nationalgeographic.com. Available at: https://news. nationalgeographic.com/news/2014/10/141001-aral-sea-shrink- ing-drought-water-environment/ [Accessed 27 Oct. 2018]. Kent, S. (2019). British Fashion Council Lends Support to Second Referendum After Brexit Deal Flops. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/uk-fashion-industry-faces-uncertain-future-after-brexit-deal-voted-down [Accessed 17 Jan. 2019]. letsrecycle.com. (2018). Recycling and Waste Management News - letsrecycle.com. [online] Available at: https://www.letsrecycle.com [Accessed 20 Dec. 2018]. Levis Waterless. (2019). Levi’s® Water<Less™ Collection Uses Up To 96% Less Water. [online] Available at: http://store.levi.com/waterless/index. html [Accessed 22 Jan. 2019]. Malik Chua, J. (2018). Circularity: Sustainable Fashion’s Holy Grail or Greenwashing?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www. businessoffashion.com/articles/professional/circular-economy-the-holy-grail-of-sustainable-fashion [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Mellery-Pratt, R. (2017). 5 Sustainability Threats Facing Fashion. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion. com/articles/intelligence/5-sustainability-threats-facing-fashion?source=bibblio [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Ons.gov.uk. (2018). Frequency of internet use, by age group and by income, 2018 - Office for National Statistics. [online] Available at: https://www.ons.gov.uk/peoplepopulationandcommunity/householdcharacteristics/homeinternetandsocialmediausage/ adhocs/009137frequencyofinternetusebyagegroupandbyincome2018 [Accessed 27 Dec. 2018]. Organic Cotton Plus. (2018). What is Organic Cotton? | Global Organic Textile Standards (GOTS) | Organic Cotton 101 | Organic Cotton Processing. [online] Available at: https://organiccottonplus.com/pages/learning-center [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. Quito, A. (2018). The 2019 Pantone Color of the Year beams optimism. [online] Quartz. Available at: https://qz.com/1484243/the-2019-pantone-colorof-the-year-beams-optimism/amp/ [Accessed 11 Dec. 2018]. Sender, T. (2017). Reformation highlights importance of transparency in fashion - 31st July 2017. [online] Mintel.com. Available at: http://academic. mintel.com/display/847073/?highlight [Accessed 3 Dec. 2018]. Sender, T. (2017). Young Millennials drive interest in sustainable fashion - 28th April 2017. [online] Mintel.com. Available at: http://academic. mintel.com/display/830597/?highlight [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. Sherman, L. (2018). What Young People Really Think About Identity, Influence and the Experience Economy. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/video/what-young-people-really-think-about-identity-influence-and-the-experienceeconomy [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. Siegle, L. (2016). Op-Ed | Sustainable or Superficial?. [online] The Business of Fashion. Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/ community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/op-ed-sustainable-or-superficial [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Somers, C. (2018). A Tale of Two T-Shirts - Fashion Revolution. [online] Fashion Revolution. Available at: https://www.fashionrevolution.org/a-taleof-two-t-shirts/ [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Stella McCartney. (2019). Clevercare - Stella McCartney. [online] Available at: https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/ clevercare/ [Accessed 19 Jan. 2019]. Sweeny, G. (2015). Fast Fashion Is the Second Dirtiest Industry in the World, Next to Big Oil. [online] Eco- Watch. Available at: https://www. ecowatch.com/fast-fashion-is-the-second-dirtiest-industry-in-the-world- next-to-big--1882083445.html [Accessed 23 Oct. 2018]. Thani, D. (2016). Op-Ed | Is Fashion Ready for the Experience Economy?. Business Of Fashion. [online] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion. com/articles/opinion/op-ed-is-fashion-ready-for-the-experience-economy [Accessed 26 Nov. 2018]. The Economist Events. (2018). Sustainability Summit 2019. [online] Available at: https://events.economist.com/events-conferences/emea/ sustainability-summit-london/ [Accessed 7 Dec. 2018]. Thermore.com. (2019). Ecodown® Fibers - Puffy with no downsides - Insulation for outerwear products - Thermore®. [online] Available at: http:// www.thermore.com/en/insulation-for-outerwear-products/ecodown-fibers/?idc=388&campagna=EF-ECOTEXTILE-RED- [Accessed 4 Jan. 2019]. trendone.com. (2018). Mega-Trend: Distrust Society. [online] Available at: https://www.trendone.com/en/trend-universe/mega-trends/mega-trenddetail/distrust-society.html [Accessed 3 Dec. 2018]. trendone.com. (2019). Macro-Trend: Customisation. [online] Available at: https://www.trendone.com/en/trend-universe/macro-trends/macro-trenddetail/customisation.html [Accessed 7 Jan. 2019]. trendone.com. (2018). Mega-Trend: Individualisation. [online] Available at: https://www.trendone.com/trends/mega-trends/mega-trend-detail/ individualisation.html [Accessed 27 Dec. 2018]. trendone.com. (2018). Mega-Trend: Virtual Experiences. [online] Available at: https://www.trendone.com/en/trend-universe/mega-trends/megatrend-detail/virtual-experiences.html [Accessed 12 Dec. 2018]. WWF. (2018). We are WWF and we #FightForYourWorld. [online] Available at: https://www.wwf.org.uk [Accessed 2 Dec. 2018].

Blog • • • • • • •

Andriukaitis, V. (2018). EARTH DAY 2018: FIGHTING FOOD WASTE SHOULD BE A PRIORITY. [Blog] BCFN Foundation: Food Sustainability Index. Available at: http://foodsustainability.eiu.com/earth-day-2018-fighting-food-waste-priority/ [Accessed 7 Dec. 2018]. de Weerd, J. (2017). How to optimize conversions with subconscious marketing. [Blog] Crobox. Available at: https://blog.crobox.com/article/ subconscious-marketing [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Eror, A. (2017). Is Sustainable Fashion Completely Pointless?. [Blog] Highsnobiety. Available at: https://www.highsnobiety.com/2017/06/22/ sustainable-fashion-designers-brands/ [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Hum, S. (2017). Hurry, While Stocks Last: 19 Examples of the Scarcity Principle Used in Marketing. [Blog] Referral Candy. Available at: https://www. referralcandy.com/blog/scarcity-marketing-examples/ [Accessed 24 Dec. 2018]. Refinery29 (2017). What Is Fast-Fashion Actually Doing About Sustainability?. [Blog] Huffpost. Available at: https://www.huffpost.com/entry/whatis-fast-fashion-actually-doing-about-sustainability_b_594d2e9be4b0c85b96c658a4 [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Walter, E. (2015). The Experience Economy: The 5 Pillars Of Successful CXM. Inc.. [online] Available at: https://www.inc.com/ekaterina-walter/theexperience-economy-the-5-pillars-of-successful-cxm.html [Accessed 11 Dec. 2018]. Woodmeade, M. (2018). Sustainable Fashion Is On The Rise, But It’s Not Enough. [Blog] HuffPost. Available at: https://www.huffingtonpost.co.uk/ entry/the-rise-of-sustainable-fashion_uk_5b51ab82e4b013392edfa29d?utm_hp_ref=uk-sustainable-fashion [Accessed 25 Dec. 2018].

145

Talks / presentations • • • • • •

Balch, C. (2014). Selfies and seeing ourselves -- one artist’s look in the mirror. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.ted.com/talks/ christina_balch_selfies_and_seeing_ourselves_one_artist_s_look_in_the_mirror [Accessed 2 Jan. 2019]. Campbell, W. (2016). The psychology of narcissism. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.ted.com/talks/w_keith_campbell_the_ psychology_of_narcissism/transcript#t-298915 [Accessed 20 Jan. 2019]. Fletcher, K. (2019). The Craft of Use and other stores of change. Johansson, P. (2016). Do you really know why you do what you do?. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.ted.com/talks/petter_johansson_ do_you_really_know_why_you_do_what_you_do/up-next [Accessed 2 Jan. 2019]. Kahneman, D. (2010). The riddle of experience vs memory. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.ted.com/talks/daniel_kahneman_the_ riddle_of_experience_vs_memory/discussion?utm_campaign=eNewsletter&utm_source=hs_email&utm_medium=email&_hsenc=p2ANqtz--0IVFPl 4krYGcTUVJJE7QeY82MKZZMVD7Xlk3LYvog_MGEzp4ep8RtxrEjrflT7ASpuTfn [Accessed 2 Jan. 2019]. Schwartz, B. (2005). The paradox of choice. [podcast] TED Talk. Available at: https://www.ted.com/talks/barry_schwartz_on_the_paradox_of_ choice/up-next#t-5581 [Accessed 2 Jan. 2019].

Press release • •

Environment Agency (2018). Business and communities should plan now for climate change. [online] Available at: https://www.gov.uk/ government/news/business-and-communities-should-plan-now-for-climate-change [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018]. Environment Agency (2018). Environmental charities receive over £2.2 million from businesses which broke environmental laws. [online] Available at: https://www.gov.uk/government/news/environmental-charities-receive-over-22-million-from-businesses-which-brokeenvironmental-laws [Accessed 8 Dec. 2018].

Government reports • •

Department For Environmental Food & Rural Affairs (2017). Digest of Waste and Resource Statistics – 2017 Edition. [online] Available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/ uploads/attachment_data/file/607416/Digest_of_Waste_and_Resource_ Statistics__2017_rev.pdf [Accessed 6 Nov. 2018]. Department for Environmental Food & Rural Affairs (2018). UK Statistics on Waste. [online] York: Govern- ment Statistical Service. Available at: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/746642/UK_Statistics_on_Waste_statistical_ notice_October_2018_FINAL.pdf [Accessed 25 Oct. 2018].

Conference • •

Environmental Audit Committee (2018). Select Committees. In: Fashion Industry Committee. [online] London: BBC Parliament. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b0bt4g36/select-committees-fashion-industry-committee [Accessed 22 Dec. 2018]. Fotea, I. and Fotea, S. (2012). The importance of studying behavior in the effort of educating consumers towards ecological awareness. In: The Proceedings of the International Conference “Marketing - from Information to Decision”. Cluj-Napoca, pp.108 -120.

Exhibitions •

Fashioned From Nature (2019) [Exhibition]. Victoria and Albert Museum, London. 21 April 2018- 27 January 2019.

146

List of images Deforestation (2015) Eduardo Gudynas, Available at: http://cdca.it/en/archives/13834 [Accessed 18th January 2019]. Turtle caught in fishing net for project AWARE (n.d.) Jordi Chias, Available at: https://www.sportdiver.com/consent. php?redirect=https%3a%2f%2fwww.sportdiver.com%2fproject-aware-volunteer-uses-photo-skills-to-give-back [Accessed 19th January 2019]. How Much Trash Is In Our Ocean?, (n.d.) 4ocean, Available at: https://4ocean.com/blogs/blog/how-much-trash-isin-our- ocean [Accessed 26th October 2018]. Planetary boundaries for a blue planet (2017) Nature, Available at: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41559-0170319-z [Accessed 18th January 2019]. Cleaning spray bottle (2015) Flaticon, Available at: https://www.freepik.com/free-icon/cleaning-spray-bottle_718591.htm [Accessed 18th JNUry 2019].

Sewing needle with thread glyph icon. (2018) Anonymous, Available at: https://depositphotos.com/185786740/ stock-illustration-sewing-needle-thread-glyph-icon.html [Accessed 18th January 2019]. Plane icon (n.d.) veronawinner, Available at: https://www.vectorstock.com/royalty-free-vector/plane-icon-airplanesymbol-in-flat-style-vector-19789279 [Accessed 18th January 2019]. Washing machine icon (n.d.) kks85, Available at: https://www.vectorstock.com/royalty-free-vector/washing-machine-icon-vector-3562444 [Accessed 18th January 2019].

Trash bin icon (2016) Inkababinka, Available at: https://depositphotos.com/110471388/stock-illustrationtrash-bin-icon.html [Accessed 18th January 2019].

Ethical clothing (n.d.) Printsome Blog, Available at: https://blog.printsome.com/sustainable-fashion-brands-uk/ [Accessed 18th January 2019]. Coloured stitches (2015) Ashley, Available at: http://ethicalweddings.com/blog/textiles-and-your-wedding [Accessed 17th January 2019]. lady browsing through a clothes rail of dresses (2017) Jo Salter, Available at: https://www.wheredoesitcomefrom. co.uk/women-for-women/o-clothes-shopping-facebook-2/ [Accessed 19th January 2019]. RECYCLE SYMBOL (n.d.) StickerDadÂŽ, Available at: https://stickerdad.com/products/recycle-symbol-v1-single-colortransfer-type-decal [Accessed 23rd January 2019]. Clevercare series (2017) Stella McCartney, Available at: https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/the-clevercare-series/ [Accessed 20th January 2019]. Stella McCartney Clevercare campaign, (2017) Stella McCartney, Available at: https://www.stellamccartney.com/ experience/en/the-clevercare-series/ [Accessed 20th January 2019]. Stella McCartney Clevercare campaign 2, (2017) Stella McCartney, Available at: https://www.stellamccartney.com/ experience/en/the-clevercare-series/ [Accessed 20th January 2019].

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Stella McCarthey at Earth Day (2018) Stella McCartney, Available at: https://milled.com/StellaMcCartney/celebrating-earth-day-with-the-realreal-j-UaOmY-ee67H5Od [Accessed 21st January 2019]. Santa Monica Pier (2017) Cédric Dhaenens, Available at: https://unsplash.com/photos/qgXzAPdXQjA [Accessed 19th January 2019]. London Topshop Store Features Virtual-Reality Waterslide (2017) Zoë Weiner, Available at: https://www.teenvogue.com/story/london-topshop-virtual-reality-waterslide [Accessed 23rd January 2019]. Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, (1943) Abraham Maslow, Available at: https://www.simplypsychology.org/maslow. html [Accessed 13th December 2018]. After festival waste (n.d.) FYA, Available at: https://www.fya.org.au/2016/02/03/the-environmental-damage-of-music-festivals/ [Accessed 18th January 2019]. Nike logo (2018) Nike, Available at: https://purepng.com/photo/1717/logos-nike-logo [Accessed 19th January 2019].

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