TENCEL™ CARVED IN BLUE® Sustainable Denim Wardrobe OCT 2019 HARDWEAR - Anatomy Booklet

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 THE COLLECTION

Sustainable Denim Wardrobe 2019 HARDWEAR

Eight fabric mills were chosen to collaborate, A&A Textiles, Atlantic Mills, Blue Diamond, Kaihara, KG Denim, Orta Anadolu, Stella Blue and, last but not least Candiani, who agreed to supply their 2019 ITMA Sustainable Innovation award winning fabric which is a 50/50% blend of TENCEL™ x REFIBRA™ Lyocell and recycled cotton.

This garment collection is the result of a unique project, whose focus was to create a true workwear wardrobe based on TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics.

The TENCEL™ Denim Team and Jeanologia ® Brainbox Team have worked in partnership on many previous projects. Following their attendance at a Denim History lecture at Bluezone Munich Fabric Start, they were inspired to connect with the presenter to discuss the possibility of a collaboration. Following a subsequent visit to husband and wife team, Mohsin Sajid and Sadia Rafique from ENDRIME ® , in their West Sussex design studio the ‘Hardwear’ concept was born. Mohsin has garnered a solid reputation as a modern vintage denim designer, while Sadia has expertise in art direction and graphic design.

The brief was to design an authentic workwear collection, inspired by vintage garments from the ENDRIME ® archive, using only the latest commercial TENCEL™ Lyocell fabrics, complimented by the application of the latest laundry technologies from Jeanologia ® .

“This collection was a real challenge for us but it was also great fun as we reached back into our own vintage collections and were able to apply all the learning that we amassed from our “Truth & Light” collections” says Jeanologia ® Brain Box Creative Director, Carme Santacruz Zaragozá.

“This project was a real departure for us, because this denim category has historically been the domain of 100% cotton. We wanted to challenge that model and we did so by going to partners who are recognised for their expertise in this area” says Michael Kininmonth, Global Denim Development Manager for the Lenzing Group. “As always, we aim to work with what we believe are some of the best sustainably produced denim fabrics available in today’s market that combine the latest advancements in fiber and finish”.

The prototypes were pattern-cut and made-up at the ENDRIME ® studio, using vintage machinery. Every detail was well considered and used iconic details from garments that dated from as early as 1870s through to 1940s. YKK manufactured and supplied custom designed period-correct inspired Carved in Blue ® buttons, with washer and burr rivets made in their most eco finishes. The prototypes were then reproduced at Blackhorse Lane Ateliers in East London, a maker of ready-to-wear selvedge & organic raw denim jeans renowned for their quality, community and eco-consciousness.

“Being asked to design an authentic denim collection using TENCEL™ Lyocell has been a dream project for Sadia and I. It has been a joy for us to create and has been a true collaborative project, it’s been a career highlight.” concluded Mohsin Sajid.

For more information about the HARDWEAR capsule collection from the Sustainable Denim Wardrobe, contact denim@lenzing.com

FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

History of the Overall

Although still worn in industry and agriculture, denim bib or dungaree overalls are now inextricably linked in the public imagination with the Great Depression era of the 1930s. This is largely because of the documentary photographic work of the likes of Dorothea Lange and Mike Disfarmer, but also through cinematic representations of the time, such as John Ford’s movie of John Steinbeck’s 1939 novel The Grapes of Wrath.

The bib-and-brace overall , overall , or dungaree was a type of garment usually used as protective clothing when working. [1] The term for this clothing was always the plural term overalls, as in “a pair of overalls” and was never the singular “overall.” Overalls were introduced about 1750 as a protective article of clothing intended to prevent work related wear and tear to breeches and stockings, which were the standard clothing items required by fashion at the time. The “trowsers” of the day were very loose, reached only to the upper calf, and were basically only worn by “sailormen.”

Overalls were originally made of denim, but since then they have also be made of corduroy or chino cloth.

Overalls were invented in the 1890s by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis at Levi Strauss & Co., but they went through an evolution to reach their modern form.

The exact beginnings of the wearing of overalls are unclear, but they are mentioned in literature as early as 1776 as a protective working garment commonly worn by slaves.

The first evidence of overalls being mass-produced are those made by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis in the 1890s. The first “jeans” they invented were actually overalls (“waist overalls” or “waist-high overalls”), consisting of suspenders attached to denim pants with buttons. There was no top part with a bib.

[2] From the beginning, denim overalls were popular workers’ garments due to their durability. In fact, Levi, Strauss & Co.’s slogan in the 1880s-1890s was “Never Rip, Never Tear.”[3]

In 1911, Harry David Lee made the first bib overalls, made of pants with pockets with a bib and straps over the shoulders. In 1927, Lee developed a “hookless fastener” and created “buttonless” overalls. Zippers replaced buttons. Soon after, Suspender buttons were traded in for belt loops to attach overthe-shoulder straps.

In the 1930s, the poorest segments of the American population wore overalls: farmers, miners, loggers, and railroad workers. [6] They were most commonly worn by men and boys in the Southern United States and the Midwestern United States. They can be seen in many of Walker Evans’s photographs.[5]

Lee and Levi, Strauss & Co. were not the only companies making overalls in the late 19th and 20th centuries.

One of the oldest brands of overalls, OshKosh B’gosh, founded in 1895 in Wisconsin, specialized in hickory stripe (blue and white stripe) bib overalls. The company produced bib overalls for children in the late 1960s.[1]

Larned, Carter & Co., a company from Detroit, called themselves the “World’s Greatest Overall Makers.” They marketed their products as uniforms for railroad workers.[2]

One of the biggest overall manufacturers was Blue Bell, which began in North Carolina in 1904. It was popular among railroad workers.[2]

Jellico Clothing Manufacturing Co., later renamed Big Ben, was a major competitor of Blue Bell. Big Ben bought Blue Bell in 1926 and continued under the name Blue Bell.[4] Blue Bell then bought the overalls company Casey Jones.[2]

Bib overalls (in different colors and textiles) have become a popular garment among American youth, from the 1960s onward.

REFERENCES:

[1] Vintage menswear : a collection from the Vintage Showroom (Douglas Gunn; Josh Sims; Roy Luckett; Vintage Showroom.) [2](Sullivan, James, 1965 November [2006]). Jeans : a cultural history of an American icon.

[3] Denim: fashion’s frontier. (McClendon, Emma,. New Haven)

2018CLL003 / 01 – 1940S OVERALL, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE

VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Depression era Red Camel

Overall acquired in Greensboro North Carolina.

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

Vintage inspired 5cm dungaree clip made in Japan.

Depression era fit

Period correct ecru stitching

One piece continuous fly construction

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration square woven label

Hand stamped pocketing highlighting denim mills and TENCEL™ back-story.

Clean finished Run and Felled seams construction on both leg seams

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

Interlacing suspender branded strap with lasered collaborator names

Period correct mis-stitching on back pocket

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Hammer Loop

2018CLL003 / 01 – OVERALL, FABRIC: KAIHARA # 1834-328-2

1950s VINTAGE INSPIRATION WASHED

Interlacing suspender branded strap with lasered collaborator names

History of the Chore Coat / Jacket

The chore coat first appeared in late nineteenth century France. As a piece of outerwear made from durable cotton drill or moleskin, the chore coat was perfect for the tough physical work of labourers, railroad workers, and farmers, thanks to its loose fit that made it easy to throw over a set of overalls. In addition to being a hardy external layer, the roomy pockets were used to store everything a worker would need from tobacco tins to tools, and the button cuffs made for easy sleeve-rolling. Traditionally produced in a rich, vibrant French benzoate based blue dye, the chore was known in its home country as bleu de travail which translates directly to ‘blue work’.

It wouldn’t be until the bleu de travail reached the United States that it would be christened with its commonly known name. As it’s name would suggest, the chore coat was used for ‘chores’ like farming and laboring and worn by the working person, just like it was in France. The chore coats of America weren’t of the same rich blue as their French cousins, but the construction remained much the same.

By the early twenties, chore coats were being manufactured on a mass scale on both sides of the Atlantic by workwear companies that are still operating to this very day. In France, Le Mont Saint Michel, Vetra, and Le Laboureur were supplying workman with their bleu de travail chore coats, while over in the United States, legendary workwear label Carhartt had begun the production of their chore-style coat.

Initially known as the Engineer Sack Coat or simply The Coat, Carhartt’s chore jacket was first produced in blue denim in 1923 before the introduction of the now-iconic duck brown canvas. With the needs of railroad workers in mind, Carhartt tweaked the traditional chore by adding corduroy lining to the collar, triple stitched seams, and reinforcing the pockets with sturdy copper rivets. Additionally, the Detroit brand lined some of their chores with pile blanketing for colder conditions.

As classic workwear has grown in popularity over the last decade, the chore coat and its many interpretations have become a staple piece in many wardrobes. Versatile, reliable, and functional – a chore-style coat can compliment almost any aesthetic – from the smart-casual inner-city look to rugged, workwear inspired styles.

The Carhartt Chore Coat has stood the test of time, and many brands have produced their take on the traditional French blue chore coats. There is also a demand for vintage French chore coats that heavily worn and faded, with many vintage boutiques stocking collections of unlabelled, mid-century French chores in varying conditions.

REFERENCES:

https://www.heddels.com/2018/09/history-of-the-chorecoat/

Image courtesy of Brut Archive

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, 1950s FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE

VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Depression era Chore Jacket acquired in Japan during a inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

/ 02 – CHORE JACKET, FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

Depression era Rail Road jacket fit

Run and Felled armhole clean construction

Period correct ecru stitching

Period correct Union Made ring button for center front with circle eyelet embroidery

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on hip pockets

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Clean finished Run and Felled triple needle chainstitch seam construction throughout

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Clean finished Run and Felled triple needle chainstitch seam construction on centre back and sleeve

Clean finished Run and Felled twin needle chainstitch on back side seams

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons for cuffs

03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET

FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

History of the Trucker Jacket

Until very recently it was thought that the history of the earliest trucker jackets began around 1905. Workwear and Jackets are nothing that new, but the History of Denim or Duck trucker jackets most certainly starts with Levi’s.

One of the most iconic denim jackets ever made is the 1905 Levi’s Jeans jacket Lot Number 506XX. This Jacket is now called the “Type 1”

But only in the last few years more evidence has come to light, going back a further 31 years – a part of history which was found in a old rubbish dump: The Levi’s 1874 Triple Pleat Blouse.

We can thank writer and researcher Mike Harris, who’s completely rewritten the history of early denim and workwear in his book Jeans Of The Old West, for discovering what is almost certainly the most ancient example of a Levi’s jacket found to date. It was found in an undisclosed location on Nevada

Levi's themselves had known of the jacket but had no sample of the jacket their own archive. On investigation, it turned out that there was an artist’s rendering of the same jacket in the archives – the jacket was in a catalog listing from 1874. Soon after the jacket was acquired by Levis and placed in their Levi’s archives. Rewriting history 1874, not 1905.

The follow-up jacket was the 507XX, also known as Type 2, by Levi’s. The 507XX jacket is the modernised version of the 506XX. The most important switches in this follow-up jacket is that its less boxy than the 506XX, a little bit longer, they added two breast pockets instead of one and removed the cinch back.

Officially the jacket was introduced in 1953. This same year Levi’s introduced their ‘two side’ Levi’s Red Tab.

The first editions of the 507XX jackets were produced with leather

patches on the back neck. The later versions have the paper tags. They switched the leather patch into paper patches as it was cheaper in production so as a counter to the growing denim competition in the market. The Levi’s 507XX jacket became the ultimate worker jacket for cowboys, farmers to complete their Tuxedo style.

Although Levi’s heritage and story is solid, in 1921, Lee introduced its’ first “Railroad Jacket”. Designed specifically for railroad workers, it was named the Loco Jacket and was actually tested by railroad workers. At the end of the decade, Lee also introduced the first denim jacket with a zipper closure known as the 91, which could be identified by a house silhouette on the jacket tab. In addition to the name Lee on the label, it was also inscribed with a “UNION MADE” tagline.

Encouraged by the success of the 91, Lee went on to create the Slim Jacket, the first shorter Western-style denim jacket designed for cowboys. Its slanted pockets made it easier for cowboys to reach inside whilst riding a horse and the wide waistband ensured the jacket did not fold upwards. A few years later in 1933, Lee launched one of its most iconic denim pieces to date – the Storm Rider jacket, which was a winter version of the Slim Jacket. It featured an Alaskan blanket lining, and cord collar and cuffs which were added for extra warmth.

After World War 2 a lot of young people were starting to wear jeans in their daily life. They were the rebels who saw soldiers wearing them in their spare time. Until the fifties jeans were not a fashion item, it was only made for laborers and allowed for laborers to wear them during their work. People from the lower class were wearing denim, so it was very uncommon what these young kids did. The youth was also inspired by the upcoming film industry where rebels as James Dean in ‘Rebel Without a Cause’ and Marlon Brando in ‘The Wild One’ were dressed in double denim, white t-shirts and a pair of boots. Later in the early sixties even Marilyn Monroe was spotted in double denim suits.

In 1973 the film Badlands came out with actor Martin Sheen. Martin Sheen has a kind of James Dean look in this cult film. He’s wearing a Levi’s 507XX jacket and a pair of 501XX jeans.

Last but not least, we have the “Type III” Jacket, which is probably the most recognizable jacket style. During the early 1960’s Levi’s introduced the 557XX, also known as the Trucker Jacket. This jacket was a complete modification from the previous jackets, coming in as the first jacket to feature the now famous pointed pocket flaps and a slim fitting cut.

REFERENCES:

[1] http://loomstate.blogspot.com/2012/02/make-minetriple-levis-1874-triple.html

[2] https://www.heddels.com/2013/03/levis-denim-truckerjacket-review-type-i-ii-and-iii

[3] https://www.rokit.co.uk/blog/2019/01/03/the-historyof-the-denim-jacket

1874 - Triple Pleat Blouse - The first ever denim jacket, dating back to 1874, found by Mike harris in Nevada and acquired by Levis Archive in 2008

2018CLL003 / 03 – 1950S SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE

VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Original 1950's Levi's Type Two Jacket acquired in Pakistan during a vintage hunting inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262 RAW / RIGID

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

WASHED

1ST PROTOTYPE — MADE BY HAND BY MOHSIN SAJID

/ 03 – SELVEDGE TYPE 2 TRUCKER JACKET, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

1950s Type 2 block inspiration, with added back cinch

Run and Felled armhole clean construction

Under collar: banana collar construction for better fitting with zigzag “Van Dyke“ stitching

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons

Single continuous stitch holding down 2 pleats which are also holding down hidden selvedge facing

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Leather backed buttons

Hidden selvedge detail on collar, front facing, sleeve cuffs and main body hem

Collaboration branded square woven label on chest pockets with continuous stitch

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Printed secret pocket bag internals hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story.

5/16” Run and Felled clean construction on yoke seam

1950s Type 2 block inspiration, with added back cinch

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons

04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT

FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

History of the Workwear shirt

Shirts have been around for millennia. The humble workshirts as we know them are documented to have been made around early 1900s. but the evolution of the shirt is very fascinating. A garment which you can tell by the wearer which class your from, from the type of collar shape. But shirts have changed a lot over the years.

“Religion is not changed as easily as a shirt,” King Henry IV of France observes, ruling during a time of period in France.

The shirt has remained mostly unchanged over the past half-century or more - but that hasn’t always been the case. Detachable sleeves for flirting? Shirttails as underwear? Over the years, this core garment has evolved (and devolved) in fascinating and sometimes funny ways.

The shirt goes way, way back. In fact, this date marks the oldest preserved garment in the world - a linen shirt from ancient Egypt

These are the cloudy origins of a shirt convention that we still live with today: women’s shirts buttoning on the left and men’s on the right. Allegedly, women of status tended to be buttoned up by a servant, more easily done from the left for a right-handed person, whereas men dressed themselves.

16th - 18th Centuries The Origins of the Crop-Top

The “half shirt” or “sham” was a popular men’s garment at this time. A decorative layer, it only covered the top portion of the chest and was worn over a shirt that was either deemed too plain for the occasion, or needed washing

Early 18th Century Top and Tails

The shirt extends beyond the torso for men of this era, its long tails doing double duty as underwear.

1771 Enlightenment Expressions

The first documented appearance of the expression “To give the shirt off one’s back,” an idiom that indicates extreme desperation or generosity and is still in common usage.

1827 On the Cutting-Edge

Hannah Montague, a housewife in upstate New York, invents the detachable collar. Tired of constantly washing her husband’s entire shirt when only the collar needed it, she cut off his collars and devised a way of attaching them to the neckband after washing.

1845 Swashbuckling Style

The French cuff makes its first important appearance in literature — in The Count of Monte Cristo, by Alexandre Dumas. In actual fact, the English invented the style.

1871 Button Up

The clothier Brown, Davis & Co. patents a shirt that buttons all the way down to the waist. The upwardly mobile masses are putting their initials on everything, including shirts—and not just to claim ownership of items sent out to be washed, the original (and practical) reason for monogramming clothing.

Turn of the 20th Century - High Fashion

The high collar seen in portraits dating from this era is, in fact, a holdover from Victorian times. Though it is out of fashion today, a higher, stiffer collar does still convey formality.

The 1900s -1910s

The turn of the century is an interesting time for workwear; along with the 1910s, there’s actually a great deal we don’t know about it. That’s because unlike the 1940s, 1930s, and even 1920s, there of what we know from this time period is thanks to catalogues, or

photographs. work shirts from this era were pullovers, featured, and were single-needle or double-needle stitched. Labels were almost always cotton and printed, back yokes tended to be very high and thin.

1920s To The Point

The pointed collar starts overtaking the rounded collar as the men’s style most typical for business wear.

1924 Feeling Blue

First recorded use of the term “blue-collar worker.” The color of one’s shirt is at this point an important class indicator. The “whitecollar”—so called because those in more elevated positions are less likely to get their shirts dirty, and are thus able to wear white - is already a phenomenon.

Its around this period where ventilated yoke shirt design that was filed in 1928-29 by John W. Champion – which become the standard to workwear shirts.

REFERENCES

https://the-rite-stuff.com/blogs/news/the-evolution-of-thework-shirt

https://www.gant.co.uk/shirtguide/shirt-history

2018CLL003 / 04 – 1950s WORKWEAR SHIRT, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE

VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Depression era Pay Day shirt acquired in Greensboro North Carolina.

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

Clean finished Run and Felled twin needle chainstitch seams construction throughout

Workwear pocket watch buttonhole

Fabric enforcement on chest pockets.

Period correct ecru stitching

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Union Made period correct metal buttons.

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Curved collar with inside zigzag “Van Dyke“ stitching

Collaboration branded square woven label on chest pockets with continuous stitch

Curved darted sleeve, with ergonomic fit

2018CLL003 / 04 – ERGONOMIC SHIRT, FABRIC: KG DENIM # PD6733HW

Darted back shoulder

Curved darted sleeve, with ergonomic fit

Shirt side gusset

05 – CARPENTER PANTS

FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

History of the Carpenter pant

“At first, only workmen wore carpenter pants”.

The origins of the carpenter pants are strongly linked with the Bib Overall. Most earlier carpenter pants were overalls amended, with out the front bib.

Carpenter pants were usually made from denim or duck canvas. Canvas being the material in more durable styles, and colors may vary; white and beige are other popular colors. They had a loose cut, to allow for a wide range of motion and were most likely worn over existing pants. Some earlier variations had pockets with openings so you could access the under garment. Carpenter pants were characterized by their wide variety of pockets, tabs and loops.

Brush Loop or Hammer Loop

One such loop is known as the brush loop, or hammer loop. The loop is an inch wide fabric strip, which runs between the side seam and back pocket of carpenter pants. Although it was added to provide a place to store a paintbrush or hammer, the loop’s design turned out to be more decorative than practical. A hammer or brush can be rested there temporarily, provided the person wearing the pants does not move much.

Carpenter jeans are often worn by construction workers and carpenters, hence the name, to carry their tools so that their hands can be kept free yet the tools are still easily accessible.

Other characteristic features include extra pockets, sometimes located on the outer thighs, and extra rivets for durability. Another feature is wider belt loops, to accommodate a wider, thicker belt. Because of the weight of the tools carried in the pockets and loops, a tightly cinched, wide ‘work belt’ must be worn by most people.

Generally, you will find more angled details on Carpenter jeans like angled front pockets vs curved scoop pockets found in jeans.

Most carpenter jeans are made for function, not fashion.

Carpenter jeans were quite popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s hip hop scene especially those by the Tommy Hilfiger brand who placed their trademark logo on the hammer loop.

Later variances in Carpenter jeans added reinforced doubleknee construction with openings for knee pads.

REFERENCES

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carpenter_jeans

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY WASHED

2018CLL003 / 05 – CARPENTER PANTS – FABRIC: ATLANTIC MILLS # DIMITRY

Clean construction pocket bearer

Angled front pockets

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' washer and burr rivets

Tailored belts loops (which go into top of waistband)

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons

Printed internals hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Chain stitch waistband construction

Period correct ecru stitching

One piece continuous fly construction thin to large construction

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction on legs

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams on back rise and yoke seam

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets

Tool pocket

06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES

FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

History of Womens Work Pants

Jeans are much more than just jeans – they’re the one piece of clothing that really represents the cultural, economic and technological change that has taken place in the past hundred years; from the original Levi’s overalls designed for miners in the 1870s. The increasing amount of fits, washes and styles on offer today are just limitless.

One of the biggest changes that jeans have gone hand-in-hand with, is women’s position in society and a move towards equality between the sexes. After years of only being worn by men, 1934 saw the creation of ‘Lady Levi’s’ (also called Lot 701) by Levi Strauss & Co., the world’s first pair of denim jeans for women. Designed for women working on farms and ranches and for holidays at dude ranches, they liberated women at a time when trouser styles were few and far between, and were considered decidedly unfeminine.

Before this period, women just worn mens overalls. Lots of other brands in this period also started to make denim styles in ladies fits. It wasn’t really until the 1960s that jeans were embraced by women once again, and they became the symbol of empowerment, women’s rights and cultural revolution. In the early 1970s, Vogue featured blue jeans on its front cover for the first time, firmly cementing their fashion status and planting jeans into every woman’s subconscious.

REFERENCES

https://www.sfchronicle.com/style/article/SF-s-first-fashionicon-Levi-s-501s-11153403.php

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE

VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Depression era ladies

Jeans acquired in Japan during a inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

Angled front pockets

Clean construction pocket bearer

3/16” twin needle on patch pocket

Depression era womens fit inspiration

Tailored belts loops (which go into bottom waistband)

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons leather backed

Chain stitch waistband construction

Side zipper entry clean construction

Printed internals hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story.

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction on inseam leg

2018CLL003 / 06 – WORKWEAR PANTS – LADIES – FABRIC: ORTA # 50160A

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Clean finished Run and Felled triple needle chainstitch seams construction backrise and yoke

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets

2018CLL003

07 – SELVEDGE JEANS

FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

History of the Selvedge Jean

The birth of the jean, is a well-documented story which started with a tailor who had an idea to strengthen his clients garments at their pocket edges. These clients being miners who went down silver mines. Many don’t realise early miners were just wearing basic tailored trousers and pants down the silver mines in California in the 1870s period. Most of these garments were not even that heavy in weight compared to modern workwear of today. 8 or 10 oz was the maximum weight that was produced, a shirting weight we would consider today. Its for this very reason not many early examples remain.

During this period of time many tailors and dry good shops popped up in this towns servicing these miners, selling everything from equipment and clothing for the miners. Early workwear has its roots in tailoring, as it was tailors who made garments for the miners.

Jacob Davis was a tailor who came up with the idea of riveting overalls at their stress points and history was made when Levi Strauss helped pay for the patent.

May 20th, 1873 is the patent date for the rivet, but riveted jeans where in circulation many months or even a year before the patent came into effect. The 1st jeans were made of natural duck canvas, not indigo twilled fabric in this period.

The shape of the back pocket of the 1873 pant is the shape of the spade tool the miners worked with, and the small coin pocket was called a Match Pocket, for the miners matches. This jean is heavily tailored, with a shaped curved waistband, mini SPI’s (stitch per inches) up to 16 and even 18 in some places. Modern garments are now made with 6 or 9 as standard. This jean had only one back pocket, the yoke doesn’t exist yet, but a cinch buckle helped with the fit. The knee area has extra fabric on the knee section for extra protection for the miner. It is important to know that these garments were overalls, and were not meant to be made to fit well, they were meant to be worn loose. Most believe the match pocket was most likely a Jacob Davis invention.

There is a sense of pure refinement of this early style from the shape of the fly, to areas where the seams are run and felled with a single needle method – with one row of stitching on the presentation side, and two rows of stitching on the underside. This jean was made in a time before mass production, before even a chainstitch stitch was even considered. Chainstitch is mostly used on areas where the seams need to flex, you normally find it on back rise stitches, waistbands and side seams. This early garment would also been made with 100% cotton thread making it more vulnerable to coming apart and wearing away more faster.

Levis had exclusivity of riveting jeans for a short period of time in history – so other workwear and denim brands had to came up with other ingenious methods to strengthen their own garments in points of stress. This early period in denim history is far more fascinating, as so many brands were being creative on their construction methods before everything was standardized after WW1.

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Vintage 501 repro acquired in Bangkok during an inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 07 – SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons

Peak-a-boo selvedge coin pocket

Selvedge construction pocket bearer

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' washer and burr rivets

Tailored belts loops (which go into bottom waistband)

Modern slim fit inspiration

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction inseam

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Chain stitch waistband construction

One piece selvedge continuous fly construction

Printed pocket bag with hand stamped denim mills to identify each garment with TENCEL™ story.

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Premium 3/16” selvedge side seam stitching with chainstitch

SELVEDGE JEANS, FABRIC: CANDIANI # SK6262

Selvedge cinch buckle

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Curved back pocket with concealed rivets

Period correct mis-stitching on all pockets

Clean finished Run and Felled double needle chainstitch seams construction backrise and yoke

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets

08 – DUNGAREE DRESS

FABRIC: BLUE DIAMOND # BL-206A

History of the Dungaree dress

Many types of workwear garments have been adapted into other garments – non more so the dungaree or the overall– which for the last 20/30 years has seen been made into fashionable garments, from dresses to aprons.

Dungarees name originates in India, where dungaree was a hard-wearing fabric. Adopted by the British, the name for the fabric became the name of the garment.

Key characteristics of a dungaree are a bib which is on the apron, fixed to the pants which covers the chest, giving protection and shelter to the upper body. Most have straps on the back attaching to the front bib.

The dungaree can be considered the archetype of workwear: the one garment which is the “one go to” all considered the bench mark of protection, while keeping underneath from dirt, wear and tear.

During the both world wars, overalls and dungarees became symbols of hope and consistency.

Ref: Dungaree – Another glorious history, Denim Premiere Vision, London 2019

2018CLL003 / 08 – DUNGREE DRESS, FABRIC: BLUE DIAMOND # BL-206A

2018CLL003 / 08 – DUNGREE DRESS, FABRIC: BLUE DIAMOND # BL-206A

WASHED

2018CLL003 / 08 – DUNGREE DRESS, FABRIC: BLUE DIAMOND # BL-206A

WASHED

Modern slim fit

One piece continuous fly construction

Clean finished Run and Felled seams construction on side seam

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration woven label

Vintage inspired 5cm Dungaree clip made in Japan.

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Period correct ecru stitching

Period correct mis-stitching on pockets

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G single needle chainstitch

2018CLL003 / 08 – DUNGREE DRESS, FABRIC: BLUE DIAMOND # BL-206A

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112

History of the Workwear Apron

Long white ruffled aprons were common in 1920s. The bib apron as we know it today took roots in the 1930s and 1940s but it is the half apron of the 1950s that has started a vintage and retro apron revival.

Aprons are worn by both men and Dry Goods stores up until the 1950’s to protect clothing during the working day. Now, in the 21st century, the apron has re-emerged as a style icon in workwear and as a fashion accessory both in and out of the kitchen.

Against all odds, this garment constantly moves and reinvents itself, leaving the past behind. Today, nothing remains of its negative image from being associated with a woman trapped in a domestic role.

Throughout history, the apron has been, at times, a working class garment used for practical purposes, while at other times it has taken on a more noble role, with decorative or even ritualistic use. It has likely existed as long as mankind has worn clothes, and there is evidence of its use in Ancient Crete and Pharaonic Egypt in religious rites.

During the Middle Ages in Europe, aprons were primarily for men, and indicative of the financial and professional status of its wearer. For example, English barbers wore chequered aprons to make their trade known to potential customers.

The apron was used as a guild emblem while also serving practical purposes, so that cobblers wore black aprons to protect themselves from tar, and stonemasons wore white aprons that protected them from the white dust of the stone. Different colours were assumed by different trades: stewards adopted green aprons, while blue was used by weavers, spinners and gardeners, etc.

The transformation of the apron into an icon of femininity would take place mostly in America in the late 1940s. After World War II, following the horrors of war and the scarcity of the Great Depression, the notion of the family seated together around the table was idealized. The apron became a symbol of family values and of an inviting kitchen with enough food for everyone.

Women in their aprons represented the warmth and hospitality of the family, and of an entire nation.

The Apron now as connotations of craftsmanship, and handmade products has also helped spur the use of aprons. An interest in handmade and vintage items has led a large segment of society to look back in time and reinterpret old fashion. New–old artisans find a symbol of their identity in the apron, a reflection of their work.

Most classic workwear aprons started popping up in 1950s – in all shapes and sizes – with pocket shapes which suited the user. It’s a garment which will always be there, and will carry on to morph to suit the user.

REFERENCES

https://qooqer.com/en/apron-history/?v=79cba1185463

https://vintagedancer.com/1950s/vintage-aprons/

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FROM ENDRIME ARCHIVE

VINTAGE INSPIRATION

The following vintage garment is an example of where we took our inspiration from on our modernday take of the collection:

Vintage Japanese Repro Apron acquired in Singapore during an inspiration trip.

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112

RAW / RIGID

The following garment is our modern-day take on vintage inspiration in its raw state:

2018CLL003 / 09 – APRON, FABRIC STELLA BLUE # 5S183 + 5S057, A&A TEXTILES # LIC3206112

WASHED

The following garment has been processed at Jeanologia achieving a low EMI score:

Depression era fit

Period correct ecru stitching

Hem finished with Union Special 43200G

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' buttons

Leather backed buttons + rivets

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration square woven label

Branded 'Carved in Blue®' collaboration leather patch

Period correct mis-stitching on pockets

Added extra strength pocketing reinforcement on back pockets

TRIMS & BRANDING

DENIM BANNERS