A.C.F.
The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve
A.C.F.
The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve It’s a very simple thing. A few folks working in menswear believe that contemporary men have the opportunity to stylis1cally assert:
WHERE THEY COME FROM WHO THEY ARE WHO THEY INTEND TO BECOME
And the same folks believe that part of realizing this opportunity involves exploring, understanding and adap1ng elements from the past to contribute to an individual view of the future.
A.C.F.
The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve presents:
THE HARD GRAFT
THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR A DEMONSTRATION, EXHIBITION & PROVOCATION
CREATED BY
SAM LAMBERT SHAKA MAIDOH LIAM MAHER MATTEO GIOLI
THE HARD GRAFT
It starts with good news. It starts with a gospel. It starts with an ever deepening three-‐dimensional well of inspiraPon: OUR UNIVERSAL COLLECTIVE GEOGRAPHY OUR UNIVERSAL COLLECTIVE HISTORY Immense and ever expanding its secrets and stories are simultaneously finite and discoverable.
[THE EAST]
[THE WEST]
[THE FUTURE]
[THE PAST]
[THE FUTURE]
SOCIAL NETWORK GRUNGE GEN-‐ME OIL CRISIS COUNTER CULTURE THE 50'S WW2 DEPRESSION INTERWAR GREAT WAR INDUSTRIAL AGE ENLIGHTENMENT THE DARK AGES ANCIENT GREECE
[THE PAST]
UTILITY GARMENT HISTORY A DEEPENING WELL OF FUNCTIONAL REFERENCE
[THE FUTURE]
[THE PAST]
SARTORIAL HISTORY A DEEPENING WELL OF CUT & DRAPE SHAPE REFERENCES
[THE FUTURE]
the young turk.
the dandy.
the squire. [THE PAST]
This gospel informs the tradi1on we work in. This gospel should also relate the industry we work in.
SOMETIMES THE INDUSTRY BENEFITS FROM CONFRONTATION WITH THE TRADITION INTRODUCING:
THE HARD GRAFT
THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR
Like DJ’s, menswear designers crate-‐dig into the past, disassemble standards and classics from the jazz and pop music. They then employ a process of gra_ing, mixing, fusion and hybridizaPon to give shape to new ideas and modern forms. -‐And besides: All designers want to be rock-‐stars.
STARTING AND ENDING WITH MUSICAL INSPIRATION KEEPING TO THE DJ THEME
STYLE INSPIRATION FIGURES IN MUSIC
PREPARATION VINTAGE SOURCING
DEMONSTRATION THE DJ TECHNIQUE
EXHIBITION LIVE DISPLAY CREATION
PREPARATION – VINTAGE SOURCING
AMSTERDAM BOSTON NEW YORK
LONDON BRIGHTON
FLORENCE
CONCEPT PREPARATION
CONCEPT PREPARATION
CONCEPT PREPARATION
LONDON 1940s R.N. CAP PARIS 1930s EDINBURGH WAISTCOAT 1960s BIKER AMSTERDAM 1990s LEATHER SHIRT
DEMONSTRATION ZONE
POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP
DEMONSTRATION ZONE
POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: FLORENCE
DEMONSTRATION ZONE
POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: NEW YORK
DEMONSTRATION ZONE
POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: NEW YORK
NOMADIC STUDIO DEMONSTRATION ZONE
POP-‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: COPENHAGEN
EXHIBITION ZONE
EXHIBITION ZONE
POP-‐UP GALLERY
EXHIBITION ZONE
POP-‐UP GALLERY: FLORENCE
EXHIBITION ZONE
POP-‐UP GALLERY: NEW YORK
ORGANIC EXHIBITION EXHIBITION ZONE
POP-‐UP GALLERY: COPENHAGEN
STARTING AND ENDING WITH MUSICAL INSPIRATION Nat King Cole Thelonious Monk Jimmy Hendrix Andre 3000 Miles Davis Laurel Aitken Ben Harper OPs Redding SPng [Mods/Rockers] Louis Armstrong MaPsyahu Billy Bragg Robin Gibb Scoi Walker Bob Geldof Bowie Paddy McAloon
SPECIFIC STYLE ARCHETYPES
BILLY BRAGG: THE CASE STUDY INDIVIDUAL STYLE CULTURAL REFERENCE PERSONAL SIGNIFICANCE ALL IN THE MIX
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
FOULARD TIE UPSIDE DOWN SWISS ARMY EPAULET SLEEVE SILK VELVET SPORTCOAT CLUB INSIGNIA ADDED BIRDSEYE WAISTCOAT INVERTED CUSTOM RIDING BRITCHES GRAFTED TO 1990’S LEATHER TROUSER-‐ENDS
OXBLOOD BROGUE TONGUE INVERTED VACHETTA VAMP GUARD
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
ORGANIC EXHIBITION
THE HARD GRAFT
join the r/evoluPon.
SAM LAMBERT & SHAKA MAIDOH form the core of the ACF london LIAM MAHER works as the design director at DENHAM amsterdam MATTEO GIOLI is a founder of SUPER DUPER HATS florence HARD GRAFT TOUR PROJECTS are managed by JENNIFER MAHER/ENERGY PLAN
TOUR STOPS HAVE INCLUDED: PITTI UOMO florence CIFF copenhagen LIBERTY FAIRS new york & las vegas
based on a presentaPon prepared for MUNICH FABRIC START
this overview was developed by ENERGY PLAN based on a presentaPon prepared for: MUNICH FABRIC START