The Hard Graft - The DJ Technique Applied to Menswear

A.C.F.

The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve

A.C.F.

The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve

It’s a very simple thing.

A few folks working in menswear believe that contemporary men have the opportunity to stylis1cally assert:

WHERE THEY COME FROM WHO THEY ARE WHO THEY INTEND TO BECOME

And the same folks believe that part of realizing this opportunity involves exploring, understanding and adap1ng elements from the past to contribute to an individual view of the future.

A.C.F.

The Art Comes First Rota1ng Collec1ve presents:

THE HARD GRAFT

THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR A DEMONSTRATION, EXHIBITION & PROVOCATION

CREATED BY

SAM LAMBERT SHAKA MAIDOH LIAM MAHER MATTEO GIOLI

THE HARD GRAFT

It starts with good news.

It starts with a gospel.

It starts with an ever deepening three-­‐dimensional well of inspiraPon:

OUR UNIVERSAL COLLECTIVE GEOGRAPHY OUR UNIVERSAL COLLECTIVE HISTORY

Immense and ever expanding its secrets and stories are simultaneously finite and discoverable.

[THE EAST]

[THE WEST]

[THE FUTURE]

[THE PAST]

[THE FUTURE]

SOCIAL NETWORK GRUNGE GEN-­‐ME OIL CRISIS COUNTER CULTURE THE 50'S WW2

DEPRESSION

INTERWAR

GREAT WAR

INDUSTRIAL AGE

ENLIGHTENMENT

THE DARK AGES

ANCIENT GREECE

[THE PAST]

UTILITY GARMENT HISTORY A DEEPENING WELL OF FUNCTIONAL REFERENCE

[THE FUTURE]

[THE PAST]

SARTORIAL HISTORY A DEEPENING WELL OF CUT & DRAPE SHAPE REFERENCES

[THE FUTURE]

the young turk.

the dandy.

the squire.

[THE PAST]

This gospel informs the tradi1on we work in.

This gospel should also relate the industry we work in.

SOMETIMES THE INDUSTRY BENEFITS FROM CONFRONTATION WITH THE TRADITION

INTRODUCING:

THE HARD GRAFT

THE DJ TECHNIQUE APPLIED TO MENSWEAR

Like DJ’s, menswear designers crate-­‐dig into the past, disassemble standards and classics from the jazz and pop music.

They then employ a process of gra_ing, mixing, fusion and hybridizaPon to give shape to new ideas and modern forms.

-­‐And besides: All designers want to be rock-­‐stars.

STARTING AND ENDING WITH MUSICAL INSPIRATION KEEPING TO THE DJ THEME

STYLE INSPIRATION FIGURES IN MUSIC

PREPARATION VINTAGE SOURCING

DEMONSTRATION THE DJ TECHNIQUE

EXHIBITION LIVE DISPLAY CREATION

PREPARATION – VINTAGE SOURCING

AMSTERDAM BOSTON NEW YORK

LONDON BRIGHTON

FLORENCE

CONCEPT PREPARATION

CONCEPT PREPARATION

CONCEPT PREPARATION

LONDON 1940s R.N. CAP PARIS 1930s EDINBURGH WAISTCOAT 1960s BIKER AMSTERDAM 1990s LEATHER SHIRT

DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-­‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP

DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-­‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: FLORENCE

DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-­‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: NEW YORK

DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-­‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: NEW YORK

NOMADIC STUDIO

DEMONSTRATION ZONE

POP-­‐UP TAILOR’S SHOP: COPENHAGEN

EXHIBITION ZONE

EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-­‐UP GALLERY

EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-­‐UP GALLERY: FLORENCE

EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-­‐UP GALLERY: NEW YORK

ORGANIC EXHIBITION EXHIBITION ZONE

POP-­‐UP GALLERY: COPENHAGEN

STARTING AND ENDING WITH MUSICAL INSPIRATION Nat King Cole Thelonious Monk Jimmy Hendrix Andre 3000 Miles Davis Laurel Aitken Ben Harper OPs Redding SPng [Mods/Rockers] Louis Armstrong MaPsyahu Billy Bragg Robin Gibb Scoi Walker Bob Geldof Bowie Paddy McAloon

SPECIFIC STYLE ARCHETYPES

BILLY BRAGG: THE CASE STUDY

INDIVIDUAL STYLE CULTURAL REFERENCE PERSONAL SIGNIFICANCE

ALL IN THE MIX

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

FOULARD TIE UPSIDE DOWN SWISS ARMY

EPAULET SLEEVE SILK VELVET SPORTCOAT CLUB INSIGNIA ADDED BIRDSEYE WAISTCOAT INVERTED

CUSTOM RIDING BRITCHES GRAFTED TO 1990’S LEATHER TROUSER-­‐ENDS

OXBLOOD BROGUE TONGUE INVERTED VACHETTA VAMP GUARD

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

ORGANIC EXHIBITION

THE HARD GRAFT

join the r/evoluPon.

SAM LAMBERT & SHAKA MAIDOH form the core of the ACF london LIAM MAHER works as the design director at DENHAM amsterdam MATTEO GIOLI is a founder of SUPER DUPER HATS florence

HARD GRAFT TOUR PROJECTS are managed by JENNIFER MAHER/ENERGY PLAN

TOUR STOPS HAVE INCLUDED:

PITTI UOMO florence CIFF copenhagen LIBERTY FAIRS new york & las vegas

based on a presentaPon prepared for MUNICH FABRIC START

this overview was developed by ENERGY PLAN

based on a presentaPon prepared for: MUNICH FABRIC START