Foodie 7 by Engine House Media

Cor A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

l l a w n r Co

Issue 7

COOKERY

COURSES

At The Idle Rocks A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

MATT

BURRELL

Why we should all try something new

l l a w n r o CPrime cuts Ideas for seasonal meat

Nuts for

coconut

Ice cream with a twist

✮

n i W a a c se o f w ine

INSIDE TH IS MONTH

Baking Bird: Mincemeat cupcakes recipe The Alverton’s Simon George: Game pie recipe Southwestern Distillery: the story of Tarquin’s Gin FC7--001-- Cover FINAL.indd 2

02/12/2014 20:18

MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR From all at Trevaskis farm

Our gift to you... BUY 1 LB OF SAUSAGES

GET 1 LB FREE

29TH DECEMBER TO THE 18TH JANUARY TERMS: Applies to pork sausage purchases

made in TM butchery only. Trevaskis Farm cannot guarantee availability. Please show this voucher to recieve your special offer.

Restaurant: 01209 713931 Farm Market: 01209 714009 E-mail: hello@trevaskisfarm.co.uk Visit: www.trevaskisfarm.co.uk Trevaskis Farm Connor Downs, Hayle TR27 5JQ ad page.indd 1

02/12/2014 19:43

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

Cornwall

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

Managing Editor

Amber Key

amber.key@enginehousemedia.co.uk Telephone: 01326 574842 Features Writer

Mandy Milano mandy.milano@enginehousemedia.co.uk Telephone: 01326 574842 Design

Steve Mathews design@enginehousemedia.co.uk Telephone: 01326 574842 Client Liaison

Tracy Speak tracy.speak@enginehousemedia.co.uk Telephone: 01326 574842 Client Liaison

Vicky Lomas vicky.lomas@enginehousemedia.co.uk Telephone: 01326 574842 Assistant Publisher

Joanne Stinton joanne.stinton@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07947 589559 Publishing Director

Ben Pratchett ben.pratchett@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07557 332931 Accounts Manager

Charlotte Forster

Welcome

After all the traditional Christmas fun and food, I always enjoy getting back into the regular routine of cooking with our best seasonal ingredients. Even in winter, the fishing day boats go out to brave the seas, bringing back fine local fish for us to use in The Pavilion Boatshed Restaurant in Perranporth. Also at this time of year there’s an abundance of good meat in Cornwall.

A TASTE OF THE ULTIMATE FOOD AND DRINK DESTINATION

My passion is for getting visitors to my restaurant to try something new. There are so many lesser known cuts of meat, and so many ﬁne dishes you can build around them; local butcher Dave Hampson gives us some of his ideas on page 20. We work closely with our suppliers to ensure we’re always being innovative and making the most of our ingredients.

Cornwall Cornwall Cornwall

When I lived in Australia, I learnt how to blend a variety of ﬂavours and ingredients. I discovered that trying something new is fun and it’s a philosophy I apply to everything I do. Let’s make 2015 the year when we take a culinary risk or two! Happy New Year

Matt

charlotte.forster@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07714 718471 ADVERTISING CONTACTS Media Sales & Client Manager

Ian Grant

ian.grant@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07535 585582 Media Sales & Client Manager

Elly Burnard

elly.burnard@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07572 272302 Media Sales & Client Manager

Eleanor Mason

ellie.mason@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07535 585613 Commercial Director

Jonathan Perkins jonathan.perkins@enginehousemedia.co.uk Mobile: 07587 072706 Managing Director

Andy Forster

andy.forster@enginehousemedia.co.uk Telephone: 01326 574842 Mobile: 07711 160590 CONTRIBUTORS THIS MONTH Ella Williams www.cornwall-living.co.uk

Keep in touch with all our activities by following Foodie Cornwall on Twitter @FoodieCornwall, and by joining our Facebook page /FoodieCornwall

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02/12/2014 19:56

THE NEW RESTAURANT IN WATERGATE BAY OPEN FOR DINNER SEVEN DAYS A WEEK ON THE BEACH WATERGATE BAY CORNWALL TR8 4AA

01637 861 231 zacrys.com #zacrys

Home of authentic American smokehouse COOKED BABY BACK RIBS ✮ BEEF RIBS BRISKET BURGERS ✮ BBQ CHICKEN ✮ PULLED PORK & STEAKS Pit Cooking was pioneered by Native Americans. Authentic barbeque is still cooked the old way, low and slow, at low heat for a long period of time. Enjoy authentic and original American memorabilia in Cornwall.

The Bullpit Smokehouse & Bar Beach Road, Newquay TR7 1ES

01637 876376 info@bullpitsmokehouse.co.uk www.bullpitsmokehouse.co.uk

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Con

tent

Contents January 2015 7........ Gourmet Gossip Philps pasties and Dukkah 7........ Win! Three fabulous foodie competitions 8........ Sydney to Cornwall Meet Guest Editor, Matt Burrell 13 ..... Get Hooked Fresh seafood for a healthy January 14 ..... Game Pie Recipe from the Alverton’s Simon George 15..... Mince Pie Cupcakes Recipe from the ladies at Baking Bird 16..... Sunday Roast Winter seaside dining at Gylly Beach Café 18..... Cookery Courses Learn to cook in style at The Idle Rocks 20..... Prime Cuts How to make the most of seasonal Cornish meat 22..... CocoNuts Starting a business with Outset Cornwall’s help 24..... Raise a Glass Tarquin’s Gin celebrates its 100th batch

22 18

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02/12/2014 19:55

TWO GREAT RESTAURANTS

TRURO AND PENWITH COLLEGE

Our menus change daily focusing on fresh, seasonal, local produce. Licensed, with full wheelchair access and ample parking close by, we also offer catering for private parties and functions.

Go online for our 2014 menus at www.truro-penwith.ac.uk Senara Restaurant, Penwith College, St Clare, Penzance, TR18 2SA. t: 01736 335215 email: senara@penwith.ac.uk Spires Restaurant, Allen building, Truro College, Truro, TR1 3XX. t: 01872 267621 email: spires@truro-penwith.ac.uk

Steak night every Wednesday ÂŁ12 per person...

Open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Non-residents are welcome. www.houselbay.com â&#x20AC;˘ 01326290417

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02/12/2014 18:32

t e m r u o G gossip

Proper Cornish pasties Philip’s is a classic Cornish pasty originally created in the 1950s. Here’s how it all began: as an addition to an already ﬂourishing mini market in Hayle, a bakery was created at the rear of their shop by Sam Philp and his cousin Everett in 1958. The business grew from there and Sam started supplying many local outlets including pubs, shops and beach cafés. Sam enjoyed semi-retirement in 1985 handing over the reins to his sons, Neil and Paul and

son-in-law David. 19 92 saw the first expansion of the business with the acquisition of a bake off shop in Praze-an-Beeble, near Camborne. The business flourished, East Quay was purchased, Another retail outlet/bake-off shop was added to the portfolio in 2000 at Marazion, cementing what is today, a buoyant family run business. All of Philp’s ingredients are sourced locally, whenever possible, from local farmers and local merchants. The beef is Cornish the pasties feature the finest cuts of skirt beef

and lean mince. They’re available in a number of varieties – traditional, chicken, cheese and vegetable. PHILPS BAKERY 01736 753343 info@philpspasties.co.uk

Add some spice The Dukkah Company’s original products are all about ﬂavour and texture. They will see you through the December party period and into the January detox, as they’re packed with nutrition. Dukkah (‘Doo-ka’) is a traditional North African blend of spices and nuts. There are three main ﬂavour blends: Dipping Sand, Hot Sand and Super Dukkah. It’s very easy to enjoy. Simply serve with fresh bread (soft and squidgy is best) dunked in olive oil and then

Win!

s n o i t i t e p m Co

FABULOUS FOOD Win a three-course meal for four at Castaways Win this lovely prize which includes three courses with a bottle of house wine at this stunning waterside location in Mylor. Castaways specialises in food with an Indian ﬂavor, and it also does a super Sunday roast.

into the dukkah. Guests will love this original idea. How about topping cheese straws with dukkah? If you’re short of time, use made pastry (and even ready rolled), sprinkle with cheese and top with dukkah. As we head into the January health kick season, you might be looking for a way to add ﬂavour to your warming home made soups. Look no further.

THE DUKKAH COMPANY www.thedukkahcompany.com 07974 706025

Enter our competitions

to win these fantastic prizes! Visit www.cornwall-living.co.uk

BOTTOMS UP

Win a complete dinner party wine case Win this extravagant case of champagne, port and wine and you’ll be set to throw a great dinner party that will be sure to impress. All you have to do is add food!

Term FOR s&C ondit See C ions ornw a Page ll Living 39

COUNTRY FARE Win dinner and dessert for two

Enjoy Cornish hospitality and ﬁne local food at Trevaskis Farm. With two main meals from the evening or lunchtime menu and two desserts from the cold counter, you can relax into the New Year. (Available MondayThursday from 15th January.)

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02/12/2014 19:47

SYDNEY to

CORNWALL

008 FCM 7 FCM-ED-Regular-Guest Editor-Pavilion Boatshed (Matt Burrell).indd 2

02/12/2014 17:12

Inte

rvie

Guest Editor Matthew Burrell from Perranporth’s Pavilion Boatshed Restaurant tells us about the inﬂuence of travel on his cookery.

ornishman Matt Burrell is back to his roots after six years in Australia and a spell in Italy. His parents have owned surf shops, a snack bar and pub in Perranporth since he was a child. “All my school holidays and weekends were spent in and around Beach Road, and it’s where my ice cream shop and The Pavilion Boatshed Restaurant now stand,” he says. “I guess retail and hospitality are in my blood; we even refer to this bit of town as home,” says Matt. He explains how his grandad, who was also a chef, inﬂuenced his early ambition to go into cooking. “He used to look after us a lot when we were little and mum and dad were working. So when I left school I wanted to do catering at college, but my mum wasn’t sure it was the right thing for me. In fact thinking about it my mum has played a huge part in my life!” he laughs. Matt listened to mum and started a Business Course at College. “But for probably the only time in my life she was wrong – it wasn’t right for me and I dropped out. I wanted to go to London to work in restaurants, but mum suggested I went travelling and ‘how about Australia?’.” So that’s what he did. “After a short time in Sydney I thought she might have been wrong again – a lad from Perranporth in all the hustle and bustle of the city. I hated it!” But after another call to mum, he took some more advice and hopped on a ferry to Manly, a beautiful beach resort. “It was heaven! I quickly found work at The Bathers Pavilion.

I worked front of house, but the chef Serge Dansereau (Chef of the Year in 1990) took me under his wing and I started cooking. I realised I needed to go to college, so enrolled on a three year Commercial Catering Course and continued to work at The Bathers.” It was the huge diversity in Sydney that had the biggest effect on Matt. He describes it as a “truly multi-racial city” which has a fantastic impact on the food. “As a Brit I was in the ‘International Class’ at College and surrounded by talented classmates from India, China Pakistan and lots of other places, all with their own diverse food culture. At the restaurants, Bangladeshi and Pakistani kitchen porters often cooked staff meals and I was constantly amazed at what they could produce with some fairly cheap off cuts, the ﬂavours they created and the herbs and spices they used. I found it utterly fascinating.” Back to Blighty When some of his parents’ shops came up for lease, Matt’s Australian adventure came to a natural end. “After six years in Australia, it was time to come home. I really wanted my own restaurant to bring what I had learnt in Australia back to Cornwall – well, back to Perranporth to be precise. The restaurant used to be a surf shop and next-door is my luxury homemade ice-cream parlour.” It was Matt’s father who suggested he go off to Italy to learn to make proper gelato. “So off I went again to the

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W here I eat

University of Gelato in Bologna, Italy. I loved learning how to blend and balance the flavours for a real gelato!” Matt started making ice cream in Pavilion Ice in April 2012 and started to change the then surf shop next door into his own restaurant. In November 2012, The Pavilion Boatshed Restaurant opened. “Less is more’ is my mantra,” says Matt, describing his style of cookery. “We are an island just like Australia, so I can use good quality produce from small local suppliers I know and trust: local fish and shellfish caught on day boats, meat from the local butcher and seasonal produce. We change the menu in line with the seasons.” Matt noticed that, despite all the foodie activity we see all over the UK, many people seem to be risk-averse when it comes to trying new things. “This is my rant I guess,” he says. “It is still very hard to sell fish on the bone. We did a delicious Cornish megrim sole with a cockle, shrimp and mussel butter, but customers didn’t want to order it when told it was

Favourite eatery: n Raﬀertys, St Merry on: Rick Stein For a special occasi but I love or Nathan Outlaw, s too. small cafes and bistro

on the bone. Fillet steak is one of our best-sellers – now it is a delicious hand cut ﬁllet steak, from our butcher just up the road and cooked to perfection but compared to beef cheeks, it takes nowhere near as much time or love to prepare. So why not try pork cheeks slow-cooked and fabulous, or something else us chefs have had to spend real time and skill preparing? I don’t believe people are always as adventurous with food as they think they are.” So what’s the solution? “First of all I make sure the front of house staff know as much as possible, I show and tell them about the food we are serving (and preferably ensure they have tried it) so they can explain it to our customers.” The front of house team also meets the restaurants suppliers as they deliver fresh food daily, and know where the ingredients come from as well as the hours the chefs spend daily preparing it. “My two waitresses have been with me for over two years now – just about since the beginning – so they know their stuff. Then I think it’s up to the customer. Maybe have one or two restaurants that you eat at regularly so you get to

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02/12/2014 17:12

Matt’s Choic e

Inte

rvie

PA IN D’E P IC ES (not your ordin ary loaf) As the weat her gets colder why not warm you

rself up wi A lovely little French treat which is simple to make wit t h this great spiced loaf? h no yea But don’t be fooled by its sim plicit y: this delicate mix of st or kneading inv olved. spices still packs a punch. The ideal Pain d’epices is a cross bet ween a cake and loa warming taste. Great for bre f and has a delicious akf no limits. Drizzle it wit h hon ast , a side or even just a snack, this loaf has ey, smother it in butter use it as a naan bread altern , serve wit h pate or even ative.

INGREDIENTS

150ml full cream

know the chefs, learn to trust them and be willing to try something they recommend, something a bit different. After all we do the same with our suppliers.” Life as a chef is time-intensive, so on the rare occasions he gets to relax, Matt loves to sit on the sofa at home watching ﬁlms. “I cook simply at home, but good food on a stormy day with friends is another favourite of mine. And I love dogs; I take my parents’ dogs for walks on the beach.”

THE PAVILION BOATSHED RESTAURANT 8 Beach Road, Perranporth TR6 0JL 01872 300784 enquiries@perranporthpavilion.com www.thepavilionboatshed.com

METHOD

milk 1 Preheat the oven to 16 mp 140, 325 fah 250g honey mark 3) then lightly grea0oseC a(Fa25n xte12 renheit or gas before lining wi x 10 cm loaf tin th baking pape with oil spray r. 5g orange zest 2 Sift all th e ﬂours, baking po wd 5g lemon zest to one side. Leave until step 6. er and spices into a bowl then leave 3 On the 1 de-seeded van ntly warm the illa pod vanilla postodve& ge milk, honey, or ange & lemon seeds to a light zests, simmer, then re 3 large free range allowing the ﬂav move from the ou rs to infuse. eggs 4 Pla heat ce the eggs and 50g sugar attachment, proc sugar in an electric mixer and us ing a whisk ess on a high sp eed for about 15 you have a Saba 125g rye flour minutes, or un yon (a creamy til mixture that’s reduce the spee doubled in size) d to slow for th , then 125g plain flour 5 Remov e next step. e the vanilla po d from the m 1 tbsp baking po t leave in other wder thingisrestediepntsos and slowly pour into theilkmbu ixture. Take your the mixture do time with ¼ tsp ground gi esn’t get overwo rked. nger 6 The mixture will have a th ick ba ¼ tsp ground ci tt er mixer and fold consistency. Re the sifted ingre move from the nnamon dients from ste 7 Pour the mixt p 2. ¼ tsp ground nu ure into the prep ared tin and ba until a skewer pu tmeg ke for 50 minute shed in the ce s or nter comes out browns too quick clean. If the brea ly on top, cover d with a sheet of 8 Allow to cool baking paper. for 10-15 minu tes in the tin be wire rack to cool fore turning ou completely. Whe t on a n the loaf has co wrapped and ke oled it can be pt in the refrige rat or for three days Now it’s comple . tely cool, it’s yo urs to enjoy. W your Pain d’epic e recommend es into medium cutting slices, then grilli before spreading ng or toasting it , drizzling or se rving it with yo ur favourite topp ing.

LEFT: Matt and his customers discuss the day’s ﬁsh catch

words by:

Mandy Milano

RIGHT: Matt supports the local team

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02/12/2014 17:13

HARBOUR SPA MARINE EXPERIENCE This luxurious spa experience begins with full use of the Spa facilities from 10am, then drift into pure seaside serenity with our 2 hour Total Indulgence Treatment (including sea salt scrub and marine full body masque). You’ll also receive a 55 minute Harbour Spa Luxury Manicure or Pedicure. Your day also includes your choice of a two course lunch or Afternoon Tea in The Terrace Bar & Restaurant. £139 per person for Cornwall living readers (usually £149) Call 01736 795221 to book. ST IVES HARBOUR SPA 01736 792945 WWW.STIVES-HARBOUR-HOTEL.CO.UK

MAKING WAVES INTRODUCING THE LATEST MEMBER OF THE SHARP’S BREWERY FAMILY. ATLANTIC EXCEPTIONAL PALE ALE IS A DEEP GOLDEN ALE WITH ABUNDANT, FRUITY SWEETNESS EXPERTLY BALANCED WITH A FRESH, CITRUS BITTERNESS.

TELEPHONE 01208 862 121 VISIT WWW.SHARPSBREWERY.CO.UK FOLLOW US

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02/12/2014 18:34

Taste

Fabulously

cheme Lo yaltarye absle to use the

s Local diner loyalty scheme % ary Hooked 10 January and Febru e ut througho es. If you would lik nu e in both ve ntage of this at th ask va nues, just to take ad lmouth ve ut Truro or Fa eir restaurants abo th in one of ply. how to ap

FRESH

New Year is synonymous with healthy eating but you can still indulge. Hooked Truro has it covered with a selection of nutrient-dense, vibrant dishes.

ood food is all about fresh ingredients prepared with the minimum of fuss. At Hooked in the City you’re able to eat both healthily and indulgently as its entire menu is about natural ﬂavours. It’s motto when it comes to shellﬁsh, for example, is ‘Keep It Simple’. So you can choose from local Falmouth Oysters with lemon and Tabasco at £24.95 for a dozen – they contain more zinc per serving than any other food, and are rich in rare amino acids, hence their reputation as an aphrodisiac – or classic Crab and Lobster in small, medium or large to suit your appetite. If you’re someone who prefers a light bite, the lunch and dinner menu has an extensive range of Tapas, again, all focused on freshness. If you’ve quit carbohydrates for January, there’s

plenty for you here. Opt for Serrano ham, Milano salami & extra virgin olive oil. Or if you’re simply being super healthy, how about smoked salmon roulade, nori and wasabi cream cheese – it’s so nutritious! Finally, how about swapping your classic Sunday Roast for a fish version? The Monkfish Roast is a tasty affair, not to mention rich in Omega 3, and if you’re familiar with Monkfish, you’ll know how meaty and filling it is. Here your Monkfish is stuffed with Chorizo and wrapped in pastry, and is served with Potato Dauphinoise, cauliflower and parmesan. So it’s a little indulgent, but then, don’t you deserve a reward?

HOOKED Tabernacle Street, Truro TR1 2EJ 01872 274700 inthecity@hookedcornwall.com

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02/12/2014 17:28

ipe

Winter

Comfort food Nothing beats a piping hot, delicious pie after a cold winter walk on the beach.

“

Stuck for something a little different to cook this winter? At Foodie we are always on the lookout for tasty seasonal recipes to pass on, so were delighted when Simon George, the new Head Chef at the Alverton, offered us this sumptuous recipe for Game Pie. He is passionate about cooking seasonal food and challenges us all to try some (highly sustainable) Game this winter. Even better, you could prepare the ﬁlling a day or two in advance, keep in the fridge until needed then heat through gently and use. And with really good quality puff pastry sheets easily available, what could be simpler? Or you could just go along to the Alverton and let Simon prepare you the real thing!

SimoanmeGPieeorge’s G

Serves 2 ETHOD INGREDIENTS M

d game on a high

heat until

Fry mixe Pheasant, 1 owned. Keep to one side. 1 lb Mixed Game: br rooms & Venison fry onions, mush Partridge, Rabbit r heat a little and we Lo 2 ooms ns. 8 Chestnut mushr and bacon for 2 mi , n co d cook for 2 mins ba an n ed pa 4 Slices of smok 3 Add flour to . stirring constantly 2 red onions t jelly d Stock, Redcurran an a eir ad c M rli in 4 Stir 1 clove ga and season. at is 1/2 pint Madeira simmer until me Bring to boil then 5 s ju al ve nt Pi 1/2 tender. mins. jelly and cook for 20 2 Tbsp redcurrant 6 Add vegetables Place pastry 2 carrots, sliced 7 Line a dish with pastry and fill. . on top and crimp 2 leeks, sliced ns. for approx 35 mi ok co d an Salt & Pepper 8 Egg wash , ree Pu e Blue Pomm Puff pastry 9 Serve with Cornish sweet potato. d roasted squash an 1 egg (egg wash)

THE ALVERTON Tregolls Road, Truro TR1 1ZQ. 01872 276633 stay@thealverton.co.uk www.thealverton.co.uk

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02/12/2014 19:34

cipe

Baking Birds’

Mince Pie C upcakes Serves 12 INGREDIENTS M ETHOD 180g Se

Selena – Chief Caker: “This is a recipe for Christmas (which can also be adapted as we roll into January and you ﬁnd that you have jars of mincemeat left over). One of our current six cupcake ﬂavours is the divine Mince Pie. Even people who don’t like actual mince pies love these cakey beauties. Swirled with brandy and port-soaked mincemeat and topped with rum buttercream, they are a lovely boozy indulgence.”

lf raising flour 140g caster sugar 50g Demerara su gar 180g butter 3 eggs 1 tsp baking powd er 100g mincemeat

1) Using an all in one method, pu t all ingredients exce pt the mincemea t in a bowl and beat with a wooden spoon until well mixed together. 2) Gently fold in the mincemeat and then spoon the mixtu re into cupcake cases about three qu arters full. 3) Bake on 180o C for 25 minutes until golden brown. Leave to cool co mpletely. 4) We ﬂavour ou r buttercream wi th a good dash of rum an d add a sugarpast e sprig of holly to deco rate.

Catherine – Head Baker: “We enjoy making (and eating) all of our Christmas goodies, and these Mince Pie Cupcakes are one of my favourites. As always with all of our cakes, we hand mix with a wooden spoon. Remember that over-mixing will dry out your sponge so hand mixing is best. Use the best quality mincemeat that you can afford – the boozer the better!”

THE BAKING BIRD

The Birdhouse Cakery, 2 Old Bridge Street, Truro TR1 2AQ 01872 277849 enquiries@thebakingbird.co.uk www.thebakingbird.co.uk

www.facebook.com/thebakingbird @The_BakingBird

FESTIVE AFTERNOON TEA On the water’s edge

A sumptuous selection of festive sandwiches & sweet treats! Available every day 2 - 5pm from 19th November - 5th January

£15 or £26 to share Includes a pot of Tregothnan Tea or Coffee of your choice Mulled wine and other festive tipples also available

£8 for children including a Hot Chocolate

WWW.GREENBANK-HOTEL.CO.UK

HARBOURSIDE FALMOUTH CORNWALL TR11 2SR

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02/12/2014 17:44

gem Falmouth

Gylly Beach Café oﬀers hearty, fresh lunches and dinners all year round. Gaze out over the wintry beach as you dine inside.

t this time of year, it’s nice to enjoy being cosy and warm inside while you look out at the wild winter weather. It’s even lovelier when you’re being looked after with great food, live music and a glass of wine or two. Gylly Beach Café in Falmouth does all of this in style. It’s why it remains a popular venue with locals all year round, young and old, who come to enjoy fresh produce, sourced locally, acoustic music on Sundays and a great atmosphere. Owner Simon Daw tells us that the

Cornish mussels in white wine and garlic cream sauce with parsley, lemon and thick-cut bread

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Featu

evenings January ing

open

hours turday sday to Sa Open Thur ening dining ev r fo t r nigh tumn winte from the au ndays, it’s Su n O u. en m e Coast. Roast on th

restaurant caters for a variety of ages and tastes. “Our Sunday roasts are really popular and our choice of local music, all acoustic, accompanies the food really well. We like to create the right ambiance to complement the food.” The New Year evening menu is as healthy as it is warming. Choose from classic starters like Cornish mussels in white wine cream sauce with fresh bread (and Cornish butter) or seared scallops with garlic & parsley butter, smoked pancetta, dressed leaves, sunblush tomatoes and parmesan shavings. The mains are simple, colourful and tasty.

Fish features prominently, with the daily catch of the day. In winter, our local ﬁshermen continue to head out to sea, depending on the weather, and bring back their seasonal catch, which may include Whiting and Sole, plus mussels and scallops. If it’s more of a meaty dish which appeals, how about a Cornish beef rib burger? The accompaniments are as tasty as the centrepiece, with smoked cheddar, streaky bacon and salad in the bun, complemented with red cabbage slaw, chunky chips and chilli jam. “Falmouth has established itself as a real

foodie destination all year round,” says Simon. “It’s great to be a part of that and to see the town continue to buzz into the winter. We remain open from Thursday to Sunday for evening dining so although the evenings may be dark there is plenty to brighten up your nights here at the beach.”

GYLLY BEACH CAFÉ Cliﬀ Road, Falmouth TR11 4PA 01326 312884 café@gyllybeach.com www.gyllybeach.com

Ley Adewole of the Grace Notes serenading the Sunday diners

Roast on the Co ast

Gylly Beach is delighted to introduce Cornwall Liv ing readers to its popular Sunday night Roast on the Co ast deal: a full roast (or veg op tion) with a pint of beer or glass of wine for £10 every Sunday from 6pm. Music from 8pm.

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02/12/2014 17:19

tur

a Fe

Culinary

course Amber Key visits The Idle Rocks Hotel in St Mawes to develop her cookery skills with Head Chef Mark Apsey.

s one of those ‘throw it all together, add lots of seasoning and slug some wine’ cooks, learning to cook with precision was an opportunity not to be missed. So with excitement I headed off to The Idle Rocks Hotel in quiet, wintry St Mawes, 14 miles from the main road to Truro. This harbour town is at the end of the line; no traffic passes through en route, which means that it’s the ultimate destination. And this chic hotel is one of the finest in the Duchy. At just 25, Head Chef Mark Apsey is making a name for himself as an innovator. His age belies his experience, having started work at age 15 for Michelin-starred chefs including Nathan Outlaw and John Campbell. It was Mark’s idea to launch a range of cookery courses with talented chefs over the quieter winter period after a hotel guest asked for some ideas on stuffing a turkey. He has invited guest chefs who are a mix of local talent and some from further afield.

With so many chefs out there determined to stand out, how do you differentiate yourself I wonder. “I like to take a health-conscious approach to food,” Mark tells me. He’s an accomplished runner in his (he admits very limited) spare time. “I collect seaweed to make seaweed vinegar instead of lemon juice for dressings, and we make the vinegar using dregs of wine. It’s making the most of local ingredients which are both abundant, and free.” Every piece of the deluxe ground floor in The Idle Rocks is brand new after the February 2014 storms blasted through the downstairs, pulling off all the doors which ran the length of the hotel terrace and carrying them like driftwood inside. When the hotel was refurbished, Mark chose not to cook with gas, but with the latest touch technology. “It really is better when you get used to it,” he says. Plus, it means the kitchen is a cooler place to work in summer when the terrace and restaurant is packed with diners clamouring for the amazing views.

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Christmas Lunch Mastercla ss with M

ark Apsey Th ursday 18th Decem ber 2014 Head Chef M ark Apsey w ill spend the morning demonstrati ng the art of the pe rfect Christm as Lunch. From turkey basting to Christmas pu dding, Mark will explain all th e inside tips of the trade. After cooking is co mplete, everyone will sit down at th e chefs table to enjoy a relaxe lunch with a d few glasses of festive cheer. £80 pe r person inclu ding the Masterc lass and lunc h.

Christmas lunch in two hours My fellow tutee, Lee (above left), and I don our aprons and get to work. “We’re going to prepare a full Christmas lunch for up to 16 people in just two hours,” says Mark. “A lot can be prepared the day before, so on Christmas Day itself, it will only take you half an hour.” And then we get to work. First, Mark shows us how to de-bone the bronze turkey. “There’s a higher meat to bone ratio with these birds as they grow more slowly. Sure, they’re harder to pluck, but we’re after flavour and quality,” explains Mark. Nothing is wasted; the bones are set aside to make gravy. Our guide then shows us how to cook the meat super fast while retaining all the moisture. He sandwiches it with local sausage meat (just three sausages, skin off) and wraps it tightly in layers of clingfilm in a giant Haggis shape (above) tied at the ends. The same for the leg meat. Then it’s into a large pot to poach on at 80-90 degrees for around 90 minutes. So far so good.

Next up are the gravy, vegetables and cranberry sauce. Any sauce, gravy or jus pulls a dish together, and this is no different. The intensely flavoursome gravy is a real winner at the end when we taste our lunch. It’s all about reduction – there’s no cornflour required here. The bones are first roasted, then they’re reduced in a large pan of water. The liquid you’re left after straining with is reduced further with herbs and red wine vinegar, and eventually, you add more water at the end and reduce again. The result is the richest, darkest liquer-like gravy. Who doesn’t love a perfect roast potato? Here’s how: use Maris Piper for their good water balance, peel, boil with lots of salt until you can fluff the edges, put whole in a tray, pour over warm duck fat which you have melted in a pan with Rosemary and Thyme, turn regularly and roast until they’re a golden colour on the outside. This is Christmas lunch with no wastage. We don’t peel the parsnips or carrots, for example,

instead leaving the skin on to retain all the flavour as we roast them. Sprouts are sautéed with streaky bacon and chestnuts, thereby keeping their vibrant green colour. This doesn’t feel like a classic big, stodgy Christmas lunch; you can almost sense the nutrients zinging from vegetables as you eat. The final touch is to sear the lovely moist turkey to brown it off before carving. For a final chef ’s flourish, Mark delights us with a blowtorch! Just 1 hour and 50 minutes later Lee and I are enjoying a full Christmas lunch in the restaurant with a mulled Cornish cider and amazing views.

THE IDLE ROCKS Harbourside, St Mawes TR2 5AN 01326 270270 info@idlerocks.com www.idlerocks.com

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The finest cuts

ste

Hayle-based family butcher Dave Hampson oﬀers his ideas for cooking the best seasonal cuts of Cornish meat.

ith the dark winter evenings and temperatures dropping, thoughts turn to staying in and enjoying warming hearty meals that your mum or grandmother made. Dave Hampson has been at the top of the trade for many years and has plenty of ideas on what to cook. He says: “I chose these cuts for their simplicity, ﬂavour and value for money. As always, if in doubt, seek advice – its part of the service.” So visit your local butcher, then get him or her to prepare it for you. What could be easier?

Beef

Lamb

Stewed: Make the classic beef stew using shin of beef with the marrow, cooked slowly for a few hours with winter vegetables of your choice. Use fresh bread to mop the plate. The secret here is giving the shin plenty of time to cook. Pie: How about a warming homemade steak pie using chuck and diced chunky steak? Add wine or ale, or kidney, for an even richer ﬂavor. Braised: Slices of braising steak or shoulder steak (known locally as boxeater) can be placed in a pan with gravy stock and onions, then cooked on the hob. This is an ideal dish for a busy family.

Stewed: A great tasting stew needs this cut! Neck of lamb (or scrag) slowly cooked gives a lovely thick stock. (Lamb shank is an alternative cut here, with seasonal veg, pearl barley and herbs in a casserole dish. Perfect.) Pie: Shepherds pie is another classic dish, and it can be made with minced lamb instead of beef. Fried: Liver and bacon can be cooked easily on the hob using lamb, pig’s or ox liver sliced by your butcher. It’s also really nutritious. Dip in ﬂour to seal before you put it in the frying pan with onions. Add gravy and cook slowly. Meanwhile steam some cabbage and boil some Cornish potatoes, and hey presto.

Pork All rounder: Shoulder of pork as a joint, steaks or chops (spare rib chops) is a good all rounder, whatever the occasion. Sausages: What could be better than the great British sausage made by your local butcher? Roasted: Don’t forget about tasty gammon or bacon, green (unsmoked), smoked, boiled or roasted, glazed or unglazed. You can enjoy it hot or cold, plated with egg and chips, or perhaps in a sandwich. Another option is in pasta with a sauce.

HAMPSON’S OF HAYLE 20 Chapel Terrace, Hayle TR27 4AB 01736 752427 FOOD TO GO 33 Fore Street, Hayle TR27 4DX 01736 752339 www.hampsonsofhayle.co.uk

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Images courtesy of: www.karlmackie.com

02/12/2014 17:26

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ste

h c n u a L A BUSINESS

Amber Key meets Cecily Mills, who explains how Outset Cornwall has supported the development of her premium ice cream business.

ecily Mills grew up in Cornwall and had always dreamt of coming home. After a career in retail in London for brands including Oliver Bonas and Marks & Spencer, she decided it was time to pursue her passion for producing homemade ice cream. “Cornwall feels like a place where anything is possible,” she says. “Because there are so few jobs, it encourages a sense of entrepreneurship. Things are really happening here.” Cecily’s products use unprocessed coconut oil sourced direct from the Philippines. It’s is a premium product, rich in saturates with amazing anti-fungal properties and popular among the health-conscious, athletes and paleo lifestyle enthusiasts. Quite apart from that, it tastes fantastic and makes a really special dessert blended as ice cream. Even with her extensive commercial experience, when it came to developing her business idea, Cecily was glad of support. She

came across Outset Cornwall after her sister recommended the EU-funded programme whose aim is solely to support people starting their own business. “My view is that you can never stop learning, and if you can get help, why not take it? Outset adds so much value,” says Cecily. What’s more, it’s a free programme. Using the market research theory delivered in the Introduction to Enterprise sessions and combining it with the practical aspects of marketing, ﬁnance and sales from Business Start-Up sessions led Cecily to deﬁne her target market and produce a plan for her venture. “Having mentors who challenge you to ask the questions you are afraid to ask, or perhaps don’t want to, is invaluable,” adds Cecily. “It can be a lonely world as an entrepreneur but with this programme you get to share ideas with a group of like-minded individuals.” Cecily is now expanding her boutique business and talking to a range of health food stores and restaurants across the county. For more information on where to buy CocoNuts, visit: www.naturallycoconuts.com

Cecily Mills

ert Advbyicthee Free Exp all is fully funded

Outset Cornw Development Fund European Regional t oﬀering free suppor , nce rge nve Co and This includes: ss. ine bus a rt sta to ns telling you all • Information sessio e. about the programm ng helping you • One-to-one coachi as. ide r you develop workshops helping • Business start-up r business plan. you er eth tog t pu you helping you ns • Networking sessio build connections. approved Start • As a government Outset can also er, vid pro Up Loans for your new ds fun nd ﬁ help you business.

OUTSET CORNWALL First Floor, Stephenson House, Calenick Street, Truro TR1 2SF 0800 917 4324 info@outsetcornwall.co.uk www.outsetcornwall.co.uk

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Sip

Raise a Glass

Cornwall’s internationally-acclaimed Southwestern Distillery celebrates with its 100th batch of Tarquin's Gin.

ward-winning Southwestern Distillery, a family run microdistillery based between Padstow and Mawgan Porth, has had a busy yyear. ear. At just 26, founder Tarquin Leadbetter has pioneered Cornwall’s first gin for over a century and the UK’s first and only pastis at his micro-distillery. Tarquin’s Gin, which celebrates its 100th batch this month, is a contemporary take on a classic London Dry, using fresh citrus zest and homegrown violets to create its fresh, distinctive and award-winning flavor. The first bottles ever sold were served at the Gurnard’s Head, a renowned dining pub perched on Cornwall's Atlantic coast. Tarquin has a passion for quality and attention to detail, and this talented distiller has already received world-class recognition for these

handcrafted sprits: Tarquin’s Handcrafted Cornish Dry Gin was awarded a Gold medal in the 2014 IWSC competition, and Tarquin’s Handcrafted Cornish Pastis won a Gold medal at the World Sprits Competition in San Francisco in 2014. Tarquin tells us: “The response to our spirits has been incredible and motivates me to strive to continue to offer something a little bit different.” Cornwall is an area already renowned for quality food and drink. Now it's on the global map as a producer of ﬁne spirits. Bottles of Tarquin's products sell in UK, Denmark, Portugal, France and Italy and Hong Kong. “We will continue to produce great-tasting spirits with integrity,” says Tarquin. “We use traditional techniques, quality ingredients and old-fashioned equipment.” We’ll drink to that!

SOUTHWESTERN DISTILLERY Higher Trevibban Farm, St Ervan, Wadebridge PL27 7SH 01841 540121 tarquin@southwesterndistillery.com www.southwesterndistillery.com

Tarquin's Gin: enjoy chilled

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