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M AYO
ア ン ヴィ
/ 2016
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w w w. e n -v i e -f a s h i o n . c o m
MENTE FLOTANTE Introducción JAPÓN FUERTE
HARUKI SHIMOKOSHI
POST MODERN tendencia de moda L'AMOUR L A MER fotografía
DESFILES DE MODA Nueva York, Kobe y Kansai
mpoderamiento E Más: Tendencias , Editoriales , Fotografía y mucho más !
Photography / PHILIP REICHWEIN (IG: FOTOGR AFPHILIPREICHWEIN, FACEBOOK .COM/REICHWEIN.FOTOGR AFIE) Makeup / VANESSA HARRER | AUGUSTE K ARSOK AITE MODEL S/ STEFFI GEE , JULIA MENA
Garment s: Dan He Props: National Theatre
CONTENIDO 08
EDITORES PALABRA
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EDITORIAL KATTY
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EDITORIAL REAL LIFE
20
TENDENCIA DE LA MODA LA INCONDICIONAL TRADICIONAL
24
TENDENCIA DE LA MODA QUIERO SER VIEJO
28
FOTOGRAFÍA AMOR NEGRO
32
INTRODUCCIÓN SIMONA
34
FOTOGRAFÍA GRIETAS DEBAJO
37
ENTREVISTA DAVID
42
FOTOGRAFÍA L'AMOURLAMER
48
TENDENCIA DE LA MODA KATE
94
51
FOTOGRAFÍA CAPILLA DEL NIÑO
56
TENDENCIA DE LA MODACOMME DES GARÇONS
62
INTRODUCCIÓN EN EL HALLOW
79
38
66
FOTOGRAFÍA DOS
68
ENDENCIA DE LA MODA POST MODERN
74
TENDENCIA DE LA MODA MILANO
79
FOTOGRAFÍA JAPÓN FUERTE
84
DESFILE DE MODA COLECCIÓN DE KOBE
86
DESFILE DE MODA KANSAI COLECCIÓN
88
DESFILE DE MODA NEW YORK
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NTRODUCCIÓN MENTE FLOTANTE
AD, Design & Illustration LUC-ANDRÉ PAQUETTE FLORIANE PARRES PETTENUZZO JENNIFER HORSTMEIER CHRISTINE XIANG SHOKO NISHIWAKI (BURNER) AURORE DEMEDE Graphic Designer AYAKO NAGUMO AMANDA EALY
EQUIPO
Editor in Chief & Direc tor GERD KRAMER
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Editors AGATHE SCHWAAR ELIZABETH HUNT EDWARD HATFIELD JEN LOMAS Sub Editors MARY SIMCOX BRANDON LINDER VERA CHAN SILVIA GALASSO Japanese Editors TOMOKO FUJII YU ASADA HIROKO IKEDA KALI SPEERE NORIKO MINORU KOSAKA
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German Editors CHRISTINE POLZ VIRGINIA RAEUCHLE SCHAAL French Editors AGATHE SCHWAAR Spanish Editors GLÁUCIA MONTEIRO Korean Editors SOOJIN LEE JIYOUNG CHOI Chinese Editors ERIKA JAYLON KELLY Vietnamese Editors THANH HUYEN TRANG NGUYEN
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Vietnamese Graphic Designer HA TRINH Consultants SOOJIN LEE YUQI NAKAMURA MIWA HIKITA Marketing YOKO YAMAMOTO ELIZABETH PAIGE HUNT Stylists TOMOKO FUJII EWA FIUTAK JUSTYNA KORUSIEWICZ Web & PR Managers KENTA UCHIDA YOSHINORI YOSHIDA JOONAS LIEPPINEN SAYAKA HASHIMOTO MASAHIRO MINAMI Assistant NAOKO HIGASHIYAMA
Disclaimer: Every effort is made to ensure all En Vie media is up-todate. Please note that opinions expressed herein are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher. The publisher cannot be held liable for any loss, damage or distress resulting in errors, omissions or from adherence to any advice in this magazine. The publisher takes no responsibility for the quality or content of advertisements. All rights reserved by the copyright holder. To see the full disclaimer please go to www.en-vie-fashion.com/ disclaimer.html
En Vie
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E D ITO R E S PA L A B R A
CARTA DEL EDITOR hola, Toma mi vida en mis manos, decidir por mí mismo, que se mantiene independiente con el pecho en alto, que tiene problemas para caminar en mis propios pasos y la forma en que decido, en otras palabras, "desarrollo" - Eso no es lo que estamos todos buscando? Y no es sólo posible, o si desea que levantarse temprano en la mañana para hacer pan? Estamos todos en un nivel un poco de depender de alguien, aunque sólo sea por tomar el autobús. Por supuesto, esto no es una mala cosa, ya que todavía tenemos control sobre nuestras propias vidas. Esta pregunta es para los que han sido directamente hacia arriba en la vida (O que quiere hacer). Espero que las historias y las imágenes que se ven aquí se puede dar un poco de poder y la inspiración. Gerd
E D ITO R I A L
En Vie
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KATTY St ylist / ELINA FURMANE AT ROCK ETIQUET TE Makeup & Hair/ ROCIO JAHANBAKHSH Model / K AT T Y UKHANOVA
E D ITO R I A L
En Vie
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Photography / CHLOE BURTON Hair & Makeup / KIRST Y BREMNER
CAPRICHO St ylist / C ANDICE HANNAH MARCELLE Model / C ARLY JARRET @ PRISCILL A S
En Vie
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TE N D E N CI A D E L A M O DA
LA
INCONDICIONAL TR ADICIONAL
Photography / FOUAD TADROS St ylist / DANA MORTADA Hair / GEORGES MATAR
Outfits - Bashar Assaf
The Unconditional Traditional! By Devsmita Saha
I think I am really fortunate enough to share same thought as the famous makeup-artist Sharbel Hasbany, who really thinks “how traditional clothes literally helps to represent our culture and identity. Also, people wearing their national dresses symbolizes unity.” He also says that “we should keep a balance in all things as it’s inappropriate for one to completely set aside their traditional clothes and become a complete follower of western trend, or vice versa.” A great thought from a great personality cannot be ignored. So, the traditional costume not only Sari, but also could be printed Palazzos, Skirts, Suits and many more combined with contemporary trends creates a graceful and dreamy effect. Ethnic motifs are transformed into modern patterns through the skill and expertise of erudite fashion designers giving a modern look to the traditional costume. It is classic and maintain the essence of our culture. When we dress to reflect our ethnicity, we are celebrating who we are and expressing our cultural roots. I believe this is one soft line feminine wear that will never go out of fashion, keeping our wardrobes flooded with an assortment of designs all year round. As I have always said, one thing we have to combine with our outfit is bursts of confidence. So ladies, let the clothes romance you and embrace the grace!
What makes this month of the year so traditionally heady? May be the commencement of the spring season or the feeling sensation of going ethnic this season by celebrating our origins, our beliefs and our customs. Whatever might be the reason, but one thing is sure color brings immense happiness in our lives. So, let’s go Ethnic! Day by day I think fashion has encouraged openness into different cultures. Famous personalities across the globe are now wearing fashions inspired from around the world. This has led to an outburst of interest about cultures, which I believe were once hidden. With all this new interest into other societies, the modeling industry has had an increase in the number of models with different ethnic looks from across the world. This has had a very positive influence on our perception of cultural differences. A long strip of unstitched cloth, known as Sari, ranging from five to nine yards in length, which can be draped in various styles, is the traditional garment worn by women in Indian subcontinent. Being a Bong Delhiite(Bengali chics residing in Delhi, capital city of India!), I personally believe nothing could beat the look of simple chiffon Sari with your mother’s pearls, which exactly brings out a true beauty of a woman. This eternally appealing vintage costume, the sari is in style shaped through the creativity of many fashion designers. But being busy with my daily life, I generally choose to be like either a simple casual jeans shirt or a boho chic who would go around whatever could get first in the closet, but women around there ! let me tell you, there are no rules that say you can’t be celestial or fairy-like by indulging in ethnic fashion on the weekends. Red and Gold, a classic combination, will add drama to your weekend look. Gold has always been inspiring across different cultures world wide .My own favorite look would be an elegant sari with messy bun,adding just smokey eyes with minimal makeup. That’s it! It completes the sexy, yet elegant look. Yes ladies, you can transform yourself into a Goddess by wearing the appropriate clothing and, of course, having the right Goddess-like attitude.
En Vie
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TE N D E N CI A D E L A M O DA
QUIERO SER
V I E J O
Photography / BALINT NEMES Model / PATRICIA St ylist / C AROLINE NOVAKOVA
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FOTO G R A FÍ A
AMOR NEGRO Lingerie - Intimissimi Pant y - ar tificeclothing.com Belt - H&M Mask - jewall.de
Photography / HARTMUT NÖRENBERG (W W W.HART-WOR X .COM) Model / TANJA BORISSOVA Location / MÖLHEIM
Lingerie - Intimissimi Boler - eigenes Design vom Model
L ace Body, Earrings - H&M Shoe - Pleaser Harness - Tanja Borissova
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I NTRO D U CCI Ă“ N
Dress- Gianni Versace
Dress-Her ve Leger
Dress- Chanel Shoes-Valentino
SIMONA Photography / JOHN RUSSO PHOTO
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FOTO G R A FÍ A
GRIETAS DEBAJO Photography / JANA SCHUESSLER Hair & Makeup / URNA A Model / VANESSA HÄNISCH
E NTR E V I S TA
Photography / DAVID SIERR A MakeUp & Hair / JHOAN GARRIDO) COSTUMES / AL X L ADINI Model / ISABEL MOSQUER A ( INFORMA ) Post Production / R ADHA LEÓN)
DAVID
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David Sierra Inter view By Erica Van Noy
D
av i d S ie r r a is a p h oto g r a p h e r w h o s e wo r k is u n li ke any thing I ' ve seen . It 's provoc ative, interes ting and it c atches your eye immediately. He has been doing photogr aphy since he was 15 year s old. Since he didn' t have a c amer a of his own yet , he used his sis ter ’s c amer a to t ake pic tures of friends , animals , and nature. Photogr aphy has a cer t ain freedom to it , bec ause your c an view the world many d i f f e r e n t w ay s . D av i d u n d e r s t a n d s a n d l ove s t h i s co n ce p t a b o u t it . H e is a p assio nate a r t is t w it h a big imaginat io n . I h a d t h e p l e a su r e of co r r e s p o n d i n g w i t h h i m v ia e m a il , a n d r e a d i n g h i m d is c u s s h is i ns p i r at io ns a n d f avo r i te e l e m e nt s of photogr aphy proved to me that is a commit ted creative in the f ashion indus tr y.
En Vie : When you prepare for a shoot, what is your thought process like when it comes to theme and design? D av i d S i e r r a : T h e f i r s t s te p is to f i n d a co n ce p t a n d i d e a of i n s p i r at i o n to co nt i n u e w i t h t h e i nve s t ig at i o n p r o ce s s t h r o u g h p i c t u re s a n d m ov ie s . T h e m os t i m p o r t a nt s te p is to d ef i n e a co l o r p a l e t te , to s t a r t t h e m o s t e s s e nt ia l p r o ce s s i n my wo r k , t h e p r e p r o d u c t io n . T h is h e l p s m e to b e m o r e co nf i d e nt a n d to h ave c l e a r ideas for the photo-shoot , then I c an use my time right to make an amazing piece.
EN : A re you dr awn to high f ashion photogr aphy more than other forms? Why or why not? DS : I l ove f a s h i o n p h oto g r a p hy b e c a u s e I c a n r e u n i te d i f f e r e nt element s I like to create a photo. I can create and capture my ideas with a mix of fashion and ar t. However, I like documentar y, ar tistic, a n d fo o d p h oto g r a p hy a s we l l b e c a u s e t h ey a l l ow m e to s e e t h e world in hundreds of ways. EN : What inspires your as a photographer? DS : T h e p r e s e nt a n d my ow n l i f e . I t h i n k yo u h ave eve r y t h i n g around you to create wonder ful pieces. Just do it! EN : D o yo u p la n o n d oin g p h otog r a p hy excl usi ve l y o r b r a n chin g into other element s of the fashion industr y? DS : Fashion photography is my favorite, in the future I would like to be a designer for men's fashion or even produce some fashion shows. EN : As a photographer, what is your main goal? DS : To b e r e co g n ize d fo r my t a l e nt a l l ove r t h e g l o b e , to n eve r s top enjoying it and be able to ear n money with my pic tures , and ultimately always be happy doing what I do. EN : Do you have a favorite project you've worked on? Why or why not? DS : Y E S , it is c alle d O r g asm o V isual . It is a p h otogr ap hy an d ar t we b si te t h at I r u n w i t h t wo t a l e nte d wo m e n , R a d h a a n d C at a . We l ove to m a ke f a s h i o n e d i to r ia l s , a r t a n d d i f f e r e nt k i n d s of p h oto g r a p hy, b u t we a r e a l w ay s i n s p i r e d by f a s h i o n . W i t h t h is proje c t I have lear ned so much and have grown as a photogr aphy bec ause of it . This year we were recognized by some public ations and are nominated for the Best Colombian Fashion Film in Medellin Fashion Film Festival (MFFF).
D av i d S i e r r a is a d e d i c ate d i n d i v i d u a l w i t h a c l e a r v isi o n of h ow he sees the world. A s a photography, those trait s are necessar y to your sur vival. His goal of remaining happy while he works combined with his eye c atching editorials will ser ve him well in the future. I wish David Sierra and his team at Orgasmo Visual the best of luck in their future endeavors.
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FOTO G R A FÍ A
L’AMOUR LA MER Photography / GAETANO MANSI Makeup & Hair / FR ANCESCO SAET TA St yling / FULVIA MARGHERITA , NINA GA SPARRI Digital set / FR ANCESCO GIARRUSSO Designer / ALESSANDR A GIANNET TI
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TE N D E N CI A D E L A M O DA
Dress - ANNA ELIZ ABETH W W W. ANNAELIZ ABETHDESIGNS.COM Hat - ARTIK AL MILLINERY W W W. ARTIK AL .COM
KATE Photography / K ATE FIELD W W W.K ATEFIELD.NET Model / ANABELL A D W W W.WESPE AKNY.COM Makeup / JENNIFER GREEN W W W. JENNIFERGREENMUA .COM
Dress - JIACOLLEC TION W W W. JIACOLLEC TION.COM Hat - ARTIK AL MILLINERY W W W. ARTIK AL .COM
Dress - JIACOLLEC TION W W W. JIACOLLEC TION.COM Hat - ARTIK AL MILLINERY W W W. ARTIK AL .COM
FOTO G R A FÍ A
Photography / FABRIZIO PERRINI (FACEBOOK .COM/FABRIZIO.PERRINI.PHOTOGR APHER) Models / ANA MARIA , ZOE MODEL S, MICHEL ANGELO BOCCHIO
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St ylist / VALERIA GAETANO Hair / VINCENZO PANICO Makeup / RO&RO SCUOL A DI TRUCCO Special Thanks / EREDI COR A Z Z A
Dress - Johanth Chacon
CAPILLA DEL NIﾃ前 Outer wear - Tiziano Guardini
- Introducción: FABRIZIO PERRINI By Ann Ir vina Ravinther
T
h e a r t of c a p t u r i n g a p i c t u r e is o n e t h at Fa b r izi o Perrini holds deeply to his soul – it makes him feel r o ote d i n t h e m o m e nt a n d i t o cc u p i e s h is m i n d 24/ 7. His image s are clan d e s t in e of a dre am-like wor l d yet is a b o l d r e c r e at i o n of t h e t r u t h – p e r h a p s s u g ge s t i n g a n a l te r n ate u n i ve r s e . W h at h e c a n n ot f i n d to b e e x p r e s s e d i n wo r d s , h e evo ke s i n h is i m a ge r y. H is p i c t u r e s a r e a reflection of him and how he views the world.
He started taking photographs in his youth, at the t e n d e r a g e o f t w e n t y. A s a c h i l d , h e h a d s e e n h i s f a t h e r t a ke p i c t u r e s b u t i t w a s o n l y l a t e r d i d h e d e c i d e t o g e t b e h i n d t h e l e n s h i m s e l f. F o c u s i n g on his own personal growth as an artist, he taught h i m s e l f a n d l e a r n t t h r o u g h h i s m i s t a ke s . H e s t a r t e d with photographing the scene of the small theatres in Rome. What he garnered from that, can be found in his backdrop imager y – an intensive back ground depth. Since then, he was committed to tell stories through his images. Though he used a digit al c amer a, there’s a sense of nos t algia i n h is i m a ge s – h e h a s a p e n c h a nt fo r t h e n at u r a l , unclean images with a cer t ain t ype of grain on it . He developed himself even more by continuing h is s t u d i e s i n 2 013 , at t h e I n s t i t u te of P h oto g r a p hy i n Ro m e . W h i l e h e l e a r nt , h e did projec t s on the side which brought him to experiment with fashion photography.
Jersey - Unif
T h e b e a u t i f u l l y- c r e ate d , i nt r i c ate s e t s of T i m Walker and the intensit y-filled images of Annie L e i t b ov i t z f a s c i n ate s h i m . H e l m u t N ew to n a n d Ro b e r t M a p p l e t h o r p e’s wo r l d of p r ovo c at i o n a n d co nt r ove r si e s i n t h e i r h ig h l y-s t y l ize d b l a c k a n d w h i te i m a ge r y c a p t i v ate s Pe r r i n i ’s m i n d . I n t h e s a m e w ay t h at t h e s e a r t is t h a s m a d e a n a m e a n d c h a r a c te r fo r t h e i r i m a ge s , Pe r r i n i is a n a m e to t a ke n ote of an d p e r haps a d d to t h e lis t of ar tistic visionaries.
Hat - Armani Headscar f - Kenzo
Dress - Johanth Chacon
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TE N D E N CI A D E L A M O DA
Location / VERNOUILLET, Y VELINES, FR ANCE
COMME DES GARÇONS
Photography / BE AT BA SCHUNG Model / VERONIK A KUNZ
Creative concept MONIK A MAKS
Photography / MAT THIEU COLNAT MUA / St ylist / STEFANIA Z AIKINA Model / ABIGAELLE AT MADEMOISELLE AGENCY
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I NTRO D U CCI Ó N
EN EL H A L LO W
Photography / GHA SSEN OUESL ATI A ssistant / BR AHIM SIDIAI Model, MUA / L AETITIA KUDRIAV ZE VA Big thanks / ESPACE ART SADIK A & Z AINEB K AMMOUN
Ghassen Oueslati was born on August 26th, 1991.He is a self-taught photographer who is best known for his works in the fashion world and on socio-cultural issues. He is an obstinate artist with an unruffled fondness for the camera. He is strongly attracted to the dramatic portrait as he said to fashion TV interviewer when asked him about the main theme he’s mostly interested in. Specializing in the nude. His photographs convey emotions and passion as a deviation from the standard of fixed lines. In addition to Nudity which, as he thinks, stands for the festivity of the emotionally purified body. His works reflect his great attachment to human, nature and the purpose of our existence in a very artistic way aiming to afford us a genuine perception of human suffering and rebellious souls through his conceptual view. Ghassen Oueslati is going on in his projects tackling many areas and aspiring for creating things on an international scale. Biography / Mode, Beauté, nu…mais définitivement l’humain, et plus particulièrement les femmes.
LA MUDA
Photography / GHA SSEN OUESL ATI Model, MUA / L AETITIA KUDRIAV ZE VA
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FOTO G R A FÍ A
Photography / ROB GARDNER Model / IRIS FITZGER ALD MUA / AMNA SARWAR
DOS
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TE N D E N CI A D E L A M O DA
Photography / PAULINA MACIEJEWSK A St ylist / Cezar y Glusniewski Model / IZ ABEL A KOBUSA Makeup / JOANNA K ANIGOWSK A
POST
MODERN
Top - Slysze jak pachniesz Pakamera.pl, pants - Weronika Lipka Pakamera.pl, Jeweller y - Lewanowicz Heels - Kazar
Total - HE VA POL AND Pakamera.pl, Jeweller y - Lewanowicz
Jacket - INSIST Pakamera.pl, Skir t - E VC DSGN Pakamera.pl Jeweller y - Lewanowicz
Dress - MICHALSK A Pakamera.pl Jeweller y - Lewanowicz Sunglasses - Marni Heels: Kazar
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TE N D E N CI A D E L A M O DA
MILANO Photography / GENNARO C ANAGLIA (HT TP://GENNAROC ANAGLIA .COM/) St yling / FABIANA VARDARO (HT TP:// W W W.BA SIC S.BERLIN) Makeup / LELL A RUSSO Models / TIT TA - MODEL (2MORROW MIL ANO)
Full look - & other stories
Top - Vintage Jeans - Jil Sander Nav y Vintage
Shir t - COS Skir t - Melchiorri
Shir t - Dior Hommes VIntage Trousers - Melchiorri Tailoring
FOTO G R A FÍ A Clothes & Accessories [─] Minus Designed by TORU FUJIMOTO
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JAPÓN FUERTE Photography / HARUKI SHIMOKOSHI Model / AOI, IZUMI Makeup & Hair / YUK A MA SUTANI
En Vie
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D E S FI LE D E M O DA
COLECCIÓN DE KOBE
Photography / SHIGEKI NAK A JIMA
Lily Brown
MERCURYDUO
AGNOST
FIG&VIPER
CIROI
MISCH MA SCH
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D E S FI LE D E M O DA JILL by JILL STUART
COLECCIÓN DE
KANSAI Photography /SHIGEKI NAK A JIMA
PROPORTION BODY DRESSING
BE R ADIANCE
SPIGA
RENAI KEIK AKU
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D E S FI LE D E M O DA
NEW
YORK
SEMANA
DE LA
MODA
Photography / DANIEL PERRY STUDIOS
Z ang Toi
Cushnie Et Ochs
Hiromi A sai
Her ve
J. Salinas
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I NTRO D U CCI Ă“ N
White shir t as skir t - Jos A . Bank Shoes - Bull Boxer Woolen cap - Nordstrom
Photography / PHILIPPE AUFORT Model / JESSIE GOLD MUA / CHRISTINE DUPERR AY
White shir t - Yves St Clair Petites Boys’ shor t - Fruit of Loom
MENTE
F L O T A N T E Editorial / PHILIPPE AUFORT Location / NEW YORK , MANHAT TAN
By Gargi Chakravarty
For he has the gif t of words, gif t of seeing above and beyond – Gif t of seizing moments, and freezing them in time, Ruthlessly creative, blatantly surreal, complexly enigmatic. Immaculately passionate, an ardent believer, he breathes sensitivit y and charm – Hard to be ignored, tough not to be spoken about, He is a true ar tist at hear t, a Parisian in spirit, and a soul too deep. A tinge of humour so sublime, adds spark to this other wise profound thinker – His creation screams of goodness, ingenuit y, and sharpness, Philippe Aufor t ’s work is quintessentially magical and is unabashedly so!
‘ B eing Philip p e’ is a ll a b o ut “ Li v ing wit h a hy p e r a c t i ve b r ain . Fo r b et te r a n d fo r wo r s e”. To f u r t h e r q u ote t his exce ssi ve l y t a l e nte d p h otogr a p h e r of Fre n ch origin – “ Fashion is a creative game, a creative game of tex tures , shapes and bodies”… and jus t when you would be thinking who is this man , full of promise, drenched in the ar tistic light, armed with untainted creativit y…dear readers, let me pause a while, take a moment and tell you about Philippe’s journey. For it is an odyssey in it self, and is a tale to be told. You would find it inspiring, humbling and motivating. And I take the liber t y of praising him, as I truly believe his life st ands as a testimonial for us. For the ‘us’ who dare to dream, and never fail to follow our passion, for the ‘us’ who ceaselessly strive to make it big, and make this life’s journey wor th, wor th ever y bit of it! About the technical specifics of his photography and the ar tistic tidbit s, much needs to be said. And you would find me touching upon that realm a lit tle later. To b egin with , let ’s detour, an d hop, skip an d jump on to the days , when Philippe was a lit tle boy. He grew up in Fr ance, in the deep countr y side, in a small village that was embellished with sinister volcanoes and forest s, with small fields brimming with wildlife and hedgerows standing ever y where, like an army of soldiers in the line of defense. These places have lef t an impression on him and are an intrinsic par t of who he is. N ot ju s t a p h otogr a p h e r pa r exce ll e n ce , Philip p e h as t r ave ll e d a l ot wh e n h e was a co m e dia n a n d dire c to r of a Th e at re Co m pa ny. His wa n d e r l u s t s till t a ke s h i m to v a r i o u s p l a ce s , a n d h e b e l i eve s t h at t r ave l h a s b r o a d e n e d h i s m i n d a n d o p e n e d u p v a r i o u s c r e at i ve ave n u e s . V i c to r H u go h a d o n ce s a i d , “ H e w h o contemplates the depths of Paris is seized with ver tigo. Nothing is more f ant as tic . Nothing is more tragic . Nothing is more sublime.” A young Philippe in his t we ntie s we nt to Pa ris a n d ro m a n ce d t h e m eg a l o p o lis till t h e e n d of his t hir tie s . B u s t ling wit h night life , eve nt s , f in e a r t s , a n d un p re ce d e nte d e n co unte r s , Paris has “engraved him”. He fur ther states “Spaces are the basis of who I am… and they will influence me forever.” E x tremely sensitive and experimental, the child Philippe was always in a quest . And his search is on till date – his search is that for the out-of-the-box, that which is above-the-normal, even bordering metaphysical. His eyes hunt for uniqueness amidst things which vehemently boast of similarities. His humble back ground, so rich in culture, ar t s, zeal and ingenuit y has molded his per sona . He feels for people, he touches lives through his creation . Ever y t i m e h e c l i c k s t h e b u t to n , a n d t a ke s a p h oto, h e s h o ot s n ot j u s t t h e b o d y t h at p o s e s f o r h i m , b u t t h e ‘c h a r a c te r ’ t h at l i e s b e n e at h . H e f o c u s e s o n h ow t h e ‘bodies act and move’. He seeks disruption, disobedience in his models, and want s to find new postures and lines, not adhere to the norm, and break the rules. “I tr y to consider fashion as a set of accessories, a pretex t for my photography put ting a character in it.”, says Philippe. He is all about working on the ‘anxiet y side, the raw aesthetic, the dark and the mysterious’. He shuns the ‘obvious’ and the ‘simple’, and endorses the enigmatic.
Philippe’s fondest memories as a child… “I remember a specif ic night. It was during a hard winter, it was 8:00PM and deep dark outside. I was home alone. Maybe , I was 8 or 9 years old. My family was in the village, attending a par ty. Somebody knocked at the door. I opened the door and there was a man with a messy beard, looking weak and dir t y. His name was Oliver. He told me he was lost. I welcomed him, made some cof fee, and gave him bread and cheese, a seat near the stove. One hour later, my parents were back. They were used to hosting strangers, and were not surprised. They became friends with Oliver. Few years later, Oliver breathed his last. He had made me beneficiar y of his small legacy – that of a few records, an old clarinet Buf fet Crampon. He did that because he remembered that chilly winter night, when I had welcomed him, which he felt was like a lifebuoy for him.”
D oing something in f ine ar t s c ame natur ally to Philippe. He was interes ted in photogr aphy since he was t welve year s old , and per fec tly remember s his f ir s t c a m e r a , w hich wa s a gif t by his gr a n df at h e r. O n a lighte r n ote , h e s h a re s h ow h e wa s l u ck y in re cei v ing t h e gif t f ro m his we a lt hie r gr a n df at h e r, w h o wo ul d b e m i s s i n g f r o m t h e s ce n e d u r i n g m o s t p a r t of t h e ye a r ! U nf o r t u n at e l y, h e d i d n’ t h ave t h e m o n ey to b u y f i l m s , u nt i l h e w a s a b o u t n i n e t e e n ye a r s o l d . H e remembers how hard he worked in order to buy a Nikon FE with a 50 mm and a 105mm lens, f ilms, light room, etc . Added to his passion for photography, was his intense desire to be a play wright and a comedian. He juggled with various things, never losing his focus on photography. So, did he formally s tudy photogr aphy? His pic ture per fec t shoot s don’t abide by his ans wer, for Philippe s ays that he didn’t s tudy Photogr aphy or A r t s . He s tudied “ Let tres Mo dernes” in Paris VIII and Clermont- Ferr an d , Univer sit y B laise Pasc al , one of the b es t univer sities in Fr ance. B ut he childishly confesses about his unending af fair with ar t s and creativit y. Reminiscing his childhood and teenage years, he shares how music, writing, designing clothes, and directing dramas, street ar t, shor t movies were fer vently pursued. P h i l i p p e i s i n s p i r e d by a l l f o r m of A r t s . Fr o m M a r i e C h o u i n a r d (c h o r e o g r a p h e r), Fe l l i n i (d i r e c to r), C h a g a l l ( p a i nt e r), to M o o n d o g (co m p o s e r), C h r i s Wa r e ( g r a p h i c n ove l a u t h o r), H ow a r d B a r ke r ( h i s t h e at r i c a l t h e o r y) a n d M at h ew B a r n ey (f i n e a r t s) – t h e l i s t r u n s s o l o n g ! A s f o r t h e p h oto g r a p h e r s w h o h ave inf l u e nce d him , he s t ate s , “ I a m a f a n of Ru ve n Af a n a d o r, David l a C h a p e ll e , Pie r re & G ill e s , Lin db e r g , N ew to n , Te s tino, Ave d o n , Steve n K l ein , Ir ving Pe n n , Nick K night . They are the mas ter s , they are unique. I have s tudied (and s till do) them to under s t and processes , not jus t their s but my own as well , and have also learnt to respect the same.” At present, Philippe writes for a few hours in the morning and then devotes the rest of his time in taking photographs. He star ted considering photography as a serious profession about three years back , when he shif ted to Manhat t an . He says, “Being a migrant was a huge s tep in my life, and it was the bes t time to star t my second professional dream. I really wanted to fully engage myself in photography, in this new space, rhy thm, people and habit s.” Philippe prefer s shooting with a C anon Rebel T1i with a basic zoom 18/135mm and switches it with a C anon 5d mark III and a c anon zoom f2 . 8 24/70. When asked about a type of lens that he would like to choose, he smiles and says, “The best zoom ever is having an 18mm-80mm ;-), with an f1:2 even if it doesn’t exist.” Philippe prefer s to shoot with models who are open-minded , who c an s wif tly under s t and him , and who are aware of the c apacit y of their bodies . The white and pristine photography of model Jessie Gold is absolutely stunning. He was looking for a neutral face, nothing ef fusive. He even asked her to put feelings “a few inches behind her face”, and that really did the wonder. We see clean, neat, chic set of images pit ted against chaste backdrop. Nothing glit z y or jazz y, yet it is hard-hit ting and cut ting-edge. Play of white and black, and light and darkness accentuate the intensit y of the images. The sans-embellishment look makes less appear more. What goes through Philippe’s mind right before he hit s the click but ton? “It ’s not in the mind,” he says, “it is in the feeling. No words for that. I hit the but ton b e c a u s e t h e re is s o m et hing o bv io u s – r ight lin e , r ight e n e r g y; r ight eve r y t hing ; a n d t h e f re e d o m , t h e in d e p e n d e n ce , t h e mys te r y of t h e m o d e l in it . This is where the invisible becomes visible.” We h a d a n e xc l u s i ve o p p o r t u n i t y to i nt e r a c t w i t h P h i l i p p e ove r a f ew, ve r y i nt e r e s t i n g , r a p i d f i r e q u e s t i o n s . H e a l s o s h a r e d h i s a d v i ce f o r a b u d d i n g photogr apher an d what he woul d shoot , if he coul d go invisib le for a day! There is much more to Philipp e. More than jus t the man who I s trived to discover in these pages. We have much more in store for you on this ex tremely gif ted, unconventional, avant-garde and non-archet ypal photographer. Watch out this space for more in our following edition. Until then, stay enigmatic, stay charismatic and stay st ylish!
ht tp://w w w.philippeaufor t.com
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