Live at The Liberty!
Make your visit to the coast unforgettable!
MUSIC
Nothing beats live music, especially in a gorgeous theatre with amazing acoustics. At The Liberty, you’ll find everything from classical to country to cover bands, performed by local and regional groups who love music as much as you do.
THEATRE
With performances ranging from solo artists to large casts, The Liberty brings you an eclectic variety of theatrical experiences. Plays, musicals, readings, comedy and more await you at The Liberty, with perfect views from every seat in the house.
DANCE
Our dancers will delight you. Whether it’s ballet, classical, modern, or jazz with a side of rumba, our talented performers from traveling and local troupes are sure to inspire and entertain.
CHILDREN’S PROGRAMS
The Liberty offers a wide range of children’s programs, including musicals, holiday shows and our very own Astoria School of Ballet, where local children learn, rehearse and perform live in The Liberty itself!
Downtown Astoria’s historic Liberty Theatre was made for music, dance, theatre, readings, film, comedy, children’s programs – and you! 1203 Commercial Street | Astoria, OR 97103 | 503.325.5922 | www.libertyastoria.org
OUR COAST
Jonathan Williams Editor Our Coast Magazine
History in our veins, future at our feet Adventure. Magic. Peace.
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These are all possible in the Columbia-Pacific. ut for too many during the pandemic, these feelings have been hard to come by. As we move into a new phase of life amid the coronavirus, help each other find these experiences. We need them. Over the past two years I’ve returned many times to the same trail at Lewis and Clark National Historical Park — the Netul River Trail.
While not long, it is full of life. From the birds fluttering through the trees to waterfowl swimming in the Lewis and Clark River and that one duck with a Donald Duck laugh — the natural area is alive. It’s also full of peace. I can remember walking through it on New Year’s Eve as the last lights of 2021 went down over Saddle Mountain. Of course, these are the same trails Lewis and Clark once traipsed through — more than 200 years ago. It is this enduring history that fuels our region’s interest in the past and passion for the future. In this year’s issue of Our Coast, the magazine is full of stories focused on the region’s history, revitalization and future. Ethan Myers explores how volunteers over the course of a number of years raised money for the new Astoria Nordic Heritage Park, which honors the North Coast’s Scandinavian immigrants. There are stories of groups helping people learn of their heritage and ancestry, like the Lower Columbia Danish Society and Clatsop County Genealogical Society. In keeping with that spirit, there are also stories on those reimagining what historical parts of the North Coast can be. Nikki Davidson examines how the Arrow No. 2, long a river pilot boat, has found a new life providing locals and visitors with tours along the Columbia River, providing a unique point of view. In Astoria, the Rosebriar Mansion has returned to its life serving visitors to the coast this time as a vacation rental. Local couple Djordje and Trudy Čitović, who also run Fire Station Yoga, recently purchased and restored the historic home.
Nearby, Abbey McDonald focuses on how Emily Engdahl and Justin Grafton are in the midst of turning the former Clarx Confectionery building near Peter Pan Market & Deli into a space for makers and artists. The building has seen many former lives, evident when the couple opened it up to find relics of a day care, lumber storage and a bright blue hot tub embedded in the floor. Maybe the most recognizably changed area in Astoria is along the waterfront. Buoy Beer Co. and Fort George Brewery have both expanded along the river and the Bowline Hotel has opened in a former seafood processing plant. Together, the three entities have transformed once dormant and sometimes decrepit buildings into a reimagined working waterfront.
There are also a number of stories Our Coast focused on groups helping people Magazine reminds realize all the coast has to offer. SUP Manzanita owner Janice Gaines- me of all the Ehlen guides people on stand-up places I haven’t paddleboard tours on the Nehalem Bay near Manzanita. Teacher Nancy seen and things Frederick leads Just Run Bike Swim I wish I’d done. Astoria, a group where locals often tackle a variety of peaks and trails. Volunteers with Trailkeepers of Oregon help maintain trails up and down the Oregon Coast throughout the year. From wine bars to restaurants serving plant-based food and a new food hub, the drive for supporting locally produced food has only grown. Nicole Bales talked with farmers on the coast about their work and some of the new ways they’ve been able to distribute their food. Photographer Lydia Ely deftly captures the vitality of the coast in a number of her photo essays: radiant, ever-changing and hopeful. Her work reminds us why we live here or choose to visit. I grew up in Astoria and have watched the area grow. While many locals may feel like they’ve seen and done all there is to do, Our Coast reminds me of all the places I haven’t seen and things I wish I’d done. Let Our Coast be your guide in exploring the Columbia-Pacific. It is through the coast’s beauty that we get back to the feelings of adventure, magic and peace we all need.
our coast
Inside Our Coast Magazine DO & SEE
Number 11 • 2022 • DiscoverOurCoast.com PUBLISHER Kari Borgen EDITOR Jonathan Williams CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Lissa Brewer PHOTOGRAPHERS Lydia Ely Hailey Hoffman
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A coastal perspective
Bold. Majestic. Transcendent. The Columbia-Pacific is full of iconic views.
DESIGN DIRECTOR/LAYOUT John D. Bruijn CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Nicole Bales Lissa Brewer Nikki Davidson Lydia Ely Alyssa Evans Alexandra Feller Katie Frankowicz Peter Korchnak Rebecca Lexa Emily Lindblom Jaime Lump R.J. Marx Abbey McDonald Ethan Myers Julia Triezenberg Jonathan Williams ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER Sarah Silver
EAT & DRINK
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Plant-based eating
Columbia-Pacific restaurants that specialize in vegan and vegetarian dishes
LIVE & STAY
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New life for an old rose Restoration of the historic Rosebriar Mansion
COASTAL LIFE
HISTORY & HERITAGE
ADVERTISING SALES Heather Jenson Suzanne Luttrell Andrew Renwick Haley Werst
GET CONNECTED Interact with us and the community at DiscoverOurCoast.com FOLLOW US facebook.com/ourcoast twitter.com/ourcoast instagram.com/ourcoast EMAIL TO US editor@discoverourcoast.com WRITE TO US P.O. Box 210 Astoria, OR 97103 VISIT US ONLINE DiscoverOurCoast.com offers all the content of Our Coast Magazine and more. FIND BACK ISSUES Read up on back issues of Our Coast Magazine at DiscoverOurCoast.com Our Coast is published annually by The Astorian and Chinook Observer. DailyAstorian.com • ChinookObserver.com Copyright © 2022 Our Coast Magazine All rights reserved. EO Media Group COVER PHOTO Kids dig their feet into the sand at the beach in Seaside.
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A river point of view
Tugboat tours provide passengers with stunning views and local history
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The Magic Shop & More
Astoria store features magic tricks, gag gifts, books and party supplies
DO & SEE
HISTORY & HERITAGE
Our Picks................................................................................10 Into the wild......................................................................... 12 The shoebox on top of the hill.................................22 A trail runner’s dream...................................................28
Our Picks...............................................................................92 Preserving history.......................................................... 94 Tattoo: A maritime art form....................................104 Frozen in time..................................................................106
EAT & DRINK
COASTAL LIFE
Our Picks.............................................................................. 44 A transformed waterfront......................................... 46 Classic taste........................................................................54 Farm fresh............................................................................58
My Coast...............................................................................112 Art of Our Coast...............................................................118 Unique restrooms map..............................................120
LIVE & STAY Our Picks...............................................................................70 Road trips.............................................................................74 Joys of the coast..............................................................78 Trailkeepers..........................................................................82
+ AREA MAPS Astoria/Warrenton....................................................... 126 Long Beach Peninsula.................................................127 Seaside/Gearhart........................................................... 128 Cannon Beach & beyond.......................................... 129
CONTRIBUTORS Lydia Ely Lydia is a multimedia journalist at The Astorian. When she’s not taking photos for the newspaper, she enjoys doing crosswords with friends, cheering on the Seattle Storm or exploring the North Coast’s natural areas (usually still with a camera in hand).
Jonathan Williams Jonathan is the editor of Our Coast and Coast River Business Journal and is the associate editor of The Astorian. He is a native Astorian. He enjoys reading, swimming, running and experiencing the local arts scene in his spare time.
R.J. Marx
Katie Frankowicz
R.J. is the editor of the Seaside Signal. He lives in Seaside with his wife, Eve, and their miniature pinscher “Lucy.”
Katie is a journalist on Oregon’s North Coast. She has worked for several regional newspapers and the local public radio station. She moved to the coast over a decade ago and will probably never leave.
Abbey McDonald
Julia Triezenberg Julia is the museum educator at the Columbia River Maritime Museum. She enjoys roller skating and going to the beach with her dog “Millie” in her free time.
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Our Coast Magazine 2022
Abbey is the business and tourism reporter for The Astorian and Coast River Business Journal. She is a recent graduate of the University of Oregon, with degrees in journalism and anthropology. She’s on a mission to find the best places to read a book on a sunny day in Clatsop County.
DiscoverOurCoast.com
Lissa Brewer Lissa is the editor of Coast Weekend and The Astorian’s Weekend Break section. She is a recent University of Washington graduate from Whidbey Island, Washington, and can often be found reading, playing piano, kayaking and exploring the coast with an analog camera.
Ethan Myers Ethan covers the Port of Astoria, Warrenton and education for The Astorian. In his first year living on the coast, he has enjoyed all the outdoors has to offer.
Alyssa Evans Alyssa is a marketing and communications specialist at Columbia Memorial Hospital. Prior to working at Columbia Memorial, she was an editor and reporter for EO Media Group publications including The Astorian, Coast Weekend and the Chinook Observer. Outside of the office, she enjoys hosting a radio show at KMUN 91.9 FM, freelancing for local publications and exploring the coast.
John Bruijn John is the production director at The Astorian and has been with EO Media Group for over 20 years. He has designed every issue of Our Coast and does layout and design on several EOMG special sections annually.
Nicole Bales
Alexandra Feller
Nicole covers Astoria, Cannon Beach and social services at The Astorian. She enjoys exploring hiking trails and beaches and eating at the many great restaurants on the coast.
Alexandra is a Portland-based journalist who enjoys writing stories about the environment, community and education. She is passionate about exploring nature through journalism. She is a recent graduate from Linfield University who is trying to botanize her way through Oregon one forest at a time.
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MORE CONTRIBUTORS Nikki Davidson Nikki is an avid camper and outdoor explorer. The Midwest native enjoys exploring everything the North Coast has to offer while writing for several magazines across the country.
Jaime Lump
Peter Korchnak
Jaime is the administrative assistant at the Lower Columbia Preservation Society and co-owner of Lump Family Preservation Co., which specializes in wood window repair. She loves researching Pacific Northwest history and reading old newspapers on microfilm at the Astoria Library.
Peter is a freelance writer and artist from a country that no longer exists (Czechoslovakia), and is exploring the memory of another with his podcast “Remembering Yugoslavia.” His writing has appeared in a number of blogs, newspapers, magazines and literary journals.
Hailey Hoffman
Emily Lindblom Emily is a North Coast-based freelance journalist covering business, outdoors and environmental news. She has a background in community reporting and a master’s degree in multimedia journalism.
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Our Coast Magazine 2022
Rebecca Lexa Rebecca is an Oregon Master Naturalist, nature educator, tour guide and writer living on the Long Beach Peninsula.
Hailey is a photographer and reporter for Cascadia Daily News in Bellingham, Washington. She is a former photographer for The Astorian and has contributed to the last three issues of Our Coast.
Do & See Wildlife refuge tour New makers space in the works Trail running on the North Coast A coastal perspective
Our Picks
Do & See
Astoria
Long Beach
Fire Station Yoga
Neptune Movie House
By Nikki Davidson
By Jaime Lump
If Astoria’s mild temperatures leave you craving warmth, there’s one place in town that pulls double duty to deliver a quality workout with a side of authentic history. Fire Station Yoga is the only heated yoga spot in Astoria. The studio is located on the second level of an old fire station, which now serves as the Uppertown Firefighters Museum. Ever since Fire Station Yoga opened in 2020, visitors have felt the burn with heated power yoga classes. A kiln traps heat as participants train under a giant white dome. The space doesn’t stray too far from its roots as historical pieces of firefighting gear remain on shelves surrounding the class. Attendees can choose to pay for a drop-in class or purchase monthly or 10-pack session memberships. Classes are held seven days a week. A full schedule can be found on www.thefirestation.yoga. The fitness program is run by Astoria couple Djordje and Trudy Čitović, who also own and operate the restored Rosebriar Mansion vacation rental.
Going to the movies in Long Beach, Washington, began in the early 1900s as a picture show in a tent. According to the Columbia Pacific Heritage Museum, a theater building, complete with a sloping floor and stage, was built on Pacific Avenue in 1923. Initially known as Sunset Theater, then the Long Beach Theater, the building stood for just over 50 years before it was demolished in the 1970s. Long Beach went without a theater for some time until the Neptune Theatre was built by the beach in the 1980s. In 2018, the building was purchased by Kaarina Stotts. She and her son, Aarin, updated and improved the theater, now called the Neptune Movie House, which features two indoor screens. As a response to the coronavirus pandemic, the Neptune debuted a drive-in theater, becoming one of a handful of still operating drive-in theaters in Washington state. In addition to showing new release movies, the Neptune Movie House offers snacks with hot meals and a drink menu that includes beer and wine. Customers can also rent DVDs, purchase gift cards and apparel, and rent the theater for private events.
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Artistry. Outdoors. Adventures. Pastimes.
Manzanita
Astoria
SUP Manzanita
Video Horizons
By Ethan Myers
By Alyssa Evans
Among the many ways to enjoy the outdoors along the Oregon Coast, Janice Gaines-Ehlen offers adventure-seekers the chance to stand on water. For nearly a decade, Gaines-Ehlen has been taking interested couples, families and businesses out to ride stand-up paddleboards on the calm waters in Nehalem Bay through her business, SUP Manzanita. “It’s really a good workout. It’s good on the body. It’s great biomechanically,” Gaines-Ehlen said. “… I like the visuals. The visuals are incredible. All sorts of things happen when you’re out there.” Gaines-Ehlen recalls experiences with bald eagles, elk and sturgeon while paddling in the Nehalem River Valley. As a former Olympian who has an extensive background in surfing and the outdoors, Gaines-Ehlen has looked to possibly expand her operations in the future, including the potential addition of a fishing component and paddleboard rentals. Gaines-Ehlen is also the owner of Spa Manzanita and juggles her work as a massage therapist while giving paddleboard tours. She offers SUP Manzanita customers a customized experience. She has taken beginners out for their first time and helped the experienced refine their skills. Other activities Gaines-Ehlen provides include birdwatching, meditation and swimming. “I like getting people out in nature. I think the more you get people in nature the better they’re going to feel,” Gaines-Ehlen said. “I think, in my mind, the main thing that is missing in people’s lives is nature.”
As you walk down the aisle, dozens of movies, TV shows and games are carefully displayed. You make your way through another aisle, then another, all the while hoping you’ll find it. After scanning row after row, you see it: the movie you’ve been hoping to watch for weeks. There’s only one copy left and it’s all yours — for a few nights, that is. It’s no secret that the days of “be kind, rewind” are long over for many cities and towns that once were home to beloved video rental stores. But step into downtown Astoria’s Video Horizons and you may just forget the thousands of lost Hollywood Video and Blockbuster locations. Video Horizons has been an Astoria staple for nearly 40 years. Though it has adapted to the times, visiting the store still feels like a nostalgic trip. It’s even outfitted with bright paint, old-timey posters and vintage goods. Neal Cummings first opened Video Horizons in 1984 with around 600 VHS tapes. Since then, his collection of movies has grown to more than 35,000. Over the years, Cummings has run the store on both Astor Street and Marine Drive. Most recently, he moved the store to Duane Street in 2020 after difficulties operating due to the coronavirus pandemic.
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Do & See
Elk graze at Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area.
into the
WILD
VIEW NATURE UP-CLOSE AT LOCAL WILDLIFE REFUGES Words: Alyssa Evans
• Images: Lydia Ely
A day out on the coast or along the Columbia River is always a day well spent. From Jewell to Long Beach, Washington, there are a variety of spots to view creatures on land or at sea, including several wildlife refuges and sanctuaries.
Do & See
Grab your camera, binoculars and a rain jacket: it’s time to go wildlife watching!
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n Washington state, visitors to the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge and the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer can easily view birds, deer and other wildlife. In Oregon, the Twilight Eagle Sanctuary makes for a fun trip to view eagles by the Columbia. To the east, the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge makes for an inspiring kayak trip. Further south, the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area is great for elk watching. So grab your camera, binoculars and a rain jacket: it’s time to go wildlife watching!
Twilight Eagle Sanctuary Located off U.S. Highway 30 near Astoria, the Twilight Eagle Sanctuary makes for a fantastic place to get out of the car for a quick stretch. The sanctuary, also known as Twilight Marsh, makes up about 76 acres of undeveloped land. The marsh is located next to two more conservation areas, making for a total of about 103 acres of undeveloped land. Eagles as well as other birds, fish and sea lions enjoy the area. Though the sanctuary is massive, only a small area is open to the public. To see the sanctuary, head to the viewing platform along Burnside Loop Road. This is the only place where the public is allowed to visit the sanctuary. Luckily, the site is a great viewpoint, especially with a pair of binoculars. On a sunny day, you’ll likely be able to see different birds and other critters, even from the platform. On a gray day, you’ll still be able to see the mudflats and wetlands, plus views of Washington state and the Columbia River.
Clockwise from left: Swans take flight, cattails decorate the wetlands and haze creates a layered horizon in these photos taken at the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer.
Do & See
Clockwise from top left: Roosevelt elk graze at Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area. The Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer overlooks the Washington side of the Columbia River. Waterfowl are common in the wetlands of the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge.
Established in the 1970s after a small group of Columbian white-tailed deer were found in the area, the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge shouldn’t be missed. At the time of the refuge’s establishment, the Columbian white-tailed deer were listed as federally endangered. Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge Kayakers will find their bliss at the Lewis and Clark National Wildlife Refuge. Spanning about 27 miles from just outside Tongue Point to south of Skamokawa, Washington, the refuge, opened in 1972 with a goal of preserving fish and wildlife habitat, includes 35,000 acres of river, islands and sandbars. Some short walks can be enjoyed from the refuge’s boat ramp areas: John Day and Aldrich Point in Oregon and Skamokawa Vista Park in Washington. The islands are only a short distance away from the boat ramps. Waters along these islands are generally calm, making for a safe, enjoyable trip. Consider visiting the refuge during bird migration seasons to see a diverse array of birds. Eagles are often spotted year-round throughout the refuge, as are sea lions, seals, beavers, deer and river otters.
Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area Clatsop County has a jewel of its own in the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area. The refuge was established in 1969 and is managed by the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife. The protected habitat has grown to encompass just over 1,100 acres. On a nice day, visitors can see bald eagles, red-tailed hawks, owls, coyotes, bobcats, elk, deer and more. But even on rainy and cloudy days, the area is great for birdwatching. Many bird feeders are placed alongside places to sit. November through April is the best time of year to see elk but birds can be seen year-round. A state Fish and Wildlife parking permit is required. The area also offers a handful of spots for drivers to pull off from state Highway 202 to park and watch wildlife. Some spots are perfect for staying in the car but if you can, it’s worth getting out even for a short walk. Many parking spots feature memorials for those who have helped to protect the area, plus information about the surroundings and which animals can be seen.
Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer Wildlife watching is a must when visiting Cathlamet and Skamokawa in Washington. Both of these small towns are rich in nature, with many spots to watch birds, deer and other animals. Established in the 1970s after a small group of Columbian white-tailed deer were found in the area, the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge shouldn’t be missed. The refuge honors Hansen, who was the second woman and first Democratic woman elected to Congress from Washington state. At the time of the refuge’s establishment, the Columbian white-tailed deer were listed as federally endangered, and the species is considered threatened today, according to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. To access the refuge, head out of Skamokawa toward Cathlamet. When you see the signs for the refuge, you can pull off, park your car and either sit or go for a walk. If you’re up for braving the wind, make sure to get a view of the Columbia River from the refuge. You might even spot another critter or two!
Do & See
A variety of waterfowl and other birds can be found in the Julia Butler Hansen Refuge for the Columbian White-Tailed Deer.
Willapa National Wildlife Refuge Willapa National Wildlife Refuge is another fantastic place to go for birdwatchers. President Franklin D. Roosevelt established the refuge in Washington state in 1937 in an effort to protect the habitats of migrating birds. More than 200 species visit the refuge each year, including dozens of shorebirds. The refuge is also home to elk, salmon, river otters, black bears, black-tailed deer, porcupine and raccoons. Many land-locked animals live on Long Island, a large island known for its 900-plus-year-old western red cedar trees, hiking trails and camping. The island is reachable only by boat, making it a popular destination for kayakers and canoers. This portion of the refuge is also home to the refuge’s art trail, featuring public art depicting wildlife and history of the Pacific Northwest. The Willapa refuge also reaches to the Long Beach Peninsula’s northern tip. To explore the tip of the peninsula, head to the refuge’s headquarters on 67th Place off Sandridge Road. After visiting, keep heading north toward Tarlatt Unit and Leadbetter Unit, also known as Leadbetter Point State Park. Both spots are great for hiking and viewing wildlife. Reach Tarlatt via 95th Place or 85th Place from Sandridge Road, or Leadbetter by traveling north to Stackpole Road. A Washington state Discover Pass is needed to park at Leadbetter.
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Our Coast Magazine 2022
FIND YOUR PARK
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Fort Clatsop Visitor Center Open Daily 9am - 5pm 92343 Fort Clatsop Rd., OR 97103 503-861-2471 • NPS.gov/LEWI
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Antiques, ColleCtibles, books & Furniture
Peninsula Art Trail Wiegardt Studio Gallery
Long Beach Peninsula
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22604 Pacific Hwy. Ocean Park, WA 98640
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360-665-3611 • WE BUY ESTATES OPEN 7 Days a Week • 10am-5pm • Brenda Hill
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Marie Powell Gallery
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Don Nisbett Gallery (360) 642-8831 donnisbett.com
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We are a full-service Italian deli offering fine meats and cheeses, ready to eat sandwiches, housemade pastas and sauces to cook at home, housemade sausages, desserts, European market items, and Italian wines. Stop in for a sandwich and a glass of wine, beer, or craft soda, and take something home for an easy dinner! Open 10-6, 10-4 on Sunday, Closed Tuesday.
SkyWater Gallery
139 Howerton Way SE Ilwaco, WA
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“A truly fun place to browse and shop, with something bizarre around every corner. Outstanding music box and vintage arcade collection. Something for everyone.” - People Magazine Marsh’s Free Museum is a world class side show” - Tacoma Tribune “Scientists’ call bizarre creature the missing link.” - Weekly World News
Join Jake’s Fan Club at:
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“Going to Marsh’s Free Museum is a bit like watching Ben Hur. Every time you do, you see something new.” - Daily Astorian
So interesting some people never leave!
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Do & See
Emily Engdahl and Justin Grafton stand in a large room in their property near Peter Pan Market & Deli in Astoria.
SHOE BOX the
on top of the hill Words: Abbey McDonald
• Images: Lydia Ely
Couple renovates quirky Astoria building into a space for makers, artists & more
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fter heavy autumn rains, water had seeped up from underground and pooled in the basement. Justin Grafton looked at it disapprovingly then moved to flip some overhead lights on. They illuminated a time capsule. Emily Engdahl tried to call out the resident bat, making a series of high-pitched kissing noises. The couple hadn’t seen “Batticus Finch II” in a while, and she kind of missed him. Grafton made his way to Emily Engdahl and Justin Grafton the center of the basement, putting a hand overhead to purchased a large Astoria property after a thick wooden beam. The it sat neglected for nearly two decades. ceiling’s beams, he said, They’re hoping to renovate it into a were carved from a single professional services and maker space. tree, an uncommon practice in new construction. “This building has great structure and bones, it just needs a lot of love,” he said. Last year, the couple purchased the large Astoria property on the corner of 8th and Madison near Peter Pan Market & Deli after it sat neglected for nearly two decades. They’re hoping to renovate the twostory building into a professional services and maker space and to repair its two existing residential units.
Do & See
Above: Scrap metal sits under thick wooden beams in the building’s basement. Facing page clockwise from left: A pool catches water from a leaking roof in one of the rooms at the property. Plants climb the laundry room’s wall. A bright blue bathroom is decorated with matching wallpaper.
A personal project To them, the purchase was personal. Grafton was born across the street and remembers the space fondly as Clarx Confectionery, the sweets store that occupied it for a few years in the 1960s and ‘70s. His grandmother worked there and his parents have been trying to dig up a baby photo of him sitting at the counter. Engdahl grew up visiting her grandmother in the Peter Pan neighborhood. With experience in house remodels, she said it has always been her dream to own a large, undefined space, and envisions a unique design with secret passageways and hidden treasures. The two met in 2016, when Grafton came to take property photos of a house Engdahl was working on. At first, he was oblivious to her efforts to talk to him afterward, but got the hint when she asked him out for coffee. Now partners, they realized the property they had both eyed for years was within reach. They are following recommendations from city planners, and hope to renovate it for commercial or professional use. The property would also house Justin Grafton Studios, Grafton’s photography and videography business, along with Blue Collar Collective, the couple’s Astoria-based creative services studio and shop. “It’s the shoe box on top of the hill that’s been kind of derelict for 20 years, so no one notices it anymore, and we want to fix that,” Grafton said. The couple acquired the property in June, and have since been clearing out the clutter left inside. One room, with high lofted ceilings Engdahl hopes to hang aerial silks from, had been stuffed with truckloads worth of garbage. Before becoming a photographer, Grafton worked in construction for 15 years. Grafton walked through the large property pointing up, down, left and right at asbestos that will need to be taken out. He stopped in one room in the back, which had a calendar on the wall from November 1994, and pointed at the tile floor with half a square pried up. “Not asbestos, surprisingly,” he said. For now, their vision for the space depends on what the city will allow, and what loans will come through. As of March, they have been delayed by permit processes, and are still seeking a loan. They are also having issues with high costs for construction materials. “We’re locals who have the drive, the gumption, the ideas,” Engdahl said. “But we don’t have the resources of big businesses and corporations.” Engdahl said their professional and personal skills have helped them through the process. Both single parents before meeting, she said they’re used to budgeting and resourcefulness. “I feel like that, in particular, is really pushing through sort of this labor of love that we have for the building, and being able to just kind of go at the building’s pace,” Engdahl said. “We’ll borrow money when we can, but if we can’t then we’ll just continue to do it DIY style, and I’m confident in our skill sets.”
Emily and Justin hope to create a maker space for artists that will include a photography studio, an art gallery, a tool lending library and commercial space. It would host artist and maker fairs, and they would like it to be a space for community gatherings. Enlivening a neighborhood There are several other maker spaces in the Astoria and Warrenton area, considered a hub for artists and creators on the North Coast. The couple hopes to create a maker space for artists that will include a photography studio, an art gallery, a tool lending library and commercial space. It would host artist and maker fairs, and they would like it to be a space for community gatherings. Grafton and Engdahl believe a new maker space in central Astoria would help serve locals and connect the neighborhood. Grafton said the revitalization that followed the nearby Peter Pan Market’s comeback inspired them. “I love that the top of the hill is coming back to life, so to speak, and we want to help be a part of that. We want to piggyback off the successes of that and make a building up there that people enjoy looking at when they drive by,” Grafton said. The century-old building had many lives before its dejected state. The couple has been researching its past and found records of 26 different uses. Some evidence remains among the discarded relics: A
mural of shapes on a wall from a day care, a muddy kitchen showing part of what used to be an apartment and tall planks lining the walls of several rooms used for lumber storage. There are also the retro remains of a spa. One square room in the building’s center has shower stalls on one side and wooden saunas on the other. The room is taken up almost entirely by a cavernous, bright blue hot tub embedded in the floor and held up by wooden stilts reaching into the basement. The circular hole it made would be perfect for a spiral staircase, Engdahl said, if the basement is salvageable. At the back of the property, the couple are hoping to keep the two residence spaces intact, moving into one of the apartments themselves. No matter what the property ends up looking like, they hope it will give something back to the community they love. “The idea of community and my idea of legacy, specifically for that neighborhood, is to also revitalize the sense of connection that people are missing right now with not only the pandemic, but also just general sociological issues that are happening in our communities,” Engdahl said. .
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Columbia River Maritime Museum
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• The Museum’s 60th Anniversary • Return of the Restored Lightship • Opening of the Shipwrecks! exhibit
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Do & See
Off the beaten path
A Trail runner’s
DREAM
S
Words & Images: Nikki Davidson
urrounded by nothing but lush greenery and a dirt path, Nancy Frederick and her yellow Labrador retriever, “Pearl,” ventured through a heavily forested Astoria trail. Fallen branches and logs littered the muddy route, suggesting it had been a while since another human passed through.
After a few more twists and turns, the Astoria teacher and her energetic dog paused to peek through the dense treetops to a view of ships passing through the Columbia River. For Frederick, the peaceful calm is like heaven, a welcome break from her busy day job in the classroom.
According to the International Trail Running Association, the sport has increased in popularity in the last decade, particularly among women. The association analyzed trail running race data worldwide and reported that the percentage of female participants doubled from 2013 to 2019.
Do & See
Frederick believes the North Coast is the perfect place to participate in the sport of trail running, as the landscape allows endless opportunities for exploration.
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“It’s almost immediate. I go 50 yards into the forest and on the dirt, and if I was having a bad day, now it’s good,” she said. “It’s the smell, the feeling under my feet and a lot of it is just being alone with the trees.” Frederick knows the labyrinth of twisting hills and descents in Clatsop County like the back of her hand. She’s made it a point to spend as much time as possible in remote places only accessible through old logging roads and deer trails. Her goal is to reach the top of all 43 peaks in the county. At this point, she’s crossed off all but a few. The only thing holding her back is the law; the last few mountains are privately-owned property not open for exploration by the public. The peak challenge wasn’t her first major goal. She’s been ambitious since she was born, setting a goal to finish an Ironman when she was just a toddler. “I saw it on the TV when I was really little,” she laughed. But after achieving her Ironman dream and competing in triathlons and road races for years, she broke her shoulder in an accident. The grueling recovery process changed her life. “I couldn’t handle running on the cement anymore,” Frederick said, noting the repetitive impact caused issues with her recovery. “When I started running on the trails, it was like a whole new turn of events, and now it’s my favorite thing. It’s all I want to do now. I haven’t gone back to my swimming or cycling.” According to the International Trail Running Association, the sport has increased in popularity in the last decade, particularly among women. The association analyzed trail running race data worldwide and reported that the percentage of female participants doubled from 2013 to 2019. Frederick believes the North Coast is the perfect place to participate in the sport, as the landscape allows endless opportunities for exploration. Highlights of her time as a trail runner include completing a 50K race and experiencing close encounters with creatures that most people don’t get a chance to see in the wild. “I was on a logging road and a bear literally ran right in front of me,” she said. “It just crossed the road, and it was so fast. It definitely was not interested in me and I probably scared it.” Frederick now shares routes and hosts group runs so that others can experience the sport she’s come to love. She leads the local fitness group, Just Run Bike Swim Astoria, which meets Tuesday and Thursday evenings. In the warmer months, the activity lineup is full of off-the-grid runs, and participants are often asked to bring clippers to maintain the trails as they trek through the woods. “I always get excited to take somebody out there because sometimes I see something, and I go, ‘Oh, I want other people to come to do this,’” Frederick said. She advises runners who wish to explore the lesser-known North Coast trails to plan responsibly and carry a GPS, emergency kit and a cellphone. Frederick said it’s best to pick a familiar starter trail and explore the offshoots around it. “Every time I see something new out there and add something new on, I go out and do it like two or three times just to remember how it all links up,” she said. “Anybody can go out there and turn on their GPS and just retrace their steps to get back.”
Trail running on the North Coast Locals and visitors to the North Coast may enjoy running on the dirt trails located in Fort Stevens and Cape Disappointment state parks as well as at Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. A popular shorter route is a 2-mile loop around Coffenbury Lake. Those interested in exploring North Coast trails with a group can join the Just Run Bike Swim Astoria group on Tuesday or Thursday evenings.
For updates go to: facebook.com/groups/ justrunbikeswimastoria
Do & See
a coastal
Perspective Bold. Majestic. Transcendent. The Columbia-Pacific is full of iconic views. From hillsides to dunes to spots less visited, there are endless ways to see the coast’s visual delights. Next time you’re looking to immerse yourself in the area, let Our Coast be your guide to see the Columbia-Pacific in new ways.
a photo essay by Lydia Ely
Silver Point Interpretive Overlook
U.S. Highway 101 becomes extra scenic just south of Cannon Beach. At Silver Point looking north, you’ll see all the way to Ecola State Park, while directly west lies Jockey Cap Rock.
Do & See
Arcadia Beach
At Arcadia, views of the beach are available from the lot, but a walk along the trail toward the beach reveals more angles to capture.
Cannon Beach
For those looking for beach views and sandy shoes, a walk along the dunes provides opportunities for photos integrating beach grass into the foreground, allowing for a unique take on a classic Haystack Rock photo.
Cape Disappointment State Park
A classic view of the lighthouse at Cape Disappointment is available from Waikiki Beach.
Do & See
Saddle Mountain
Park in the first pull-off east of the Astoria Bridge on U.S. Highway 101 in Washington. From there, look south to see Saddle Mountain towering above Astoria, and scan the Columbia River for sea lions and seals.
Do & See
Fort Stevens State Park
The dunes at Fort Stevens offer the ultimate panoramic shot. Near the Wreck of the Peter Iredale, look for eagles perched in trees to the east, people playing in the water to the west, the mountainous headlands of Ecola State Park to the south and the beach stretching toward the mouth of the Columbia River to the north.
Do & See
Coxcomb Hill
For those that enjoy shipwatching, visit Coxcomb Hill at the Astoria Column to see ships through the trees. The higher you climb the clearer the view.
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Eat & Drink A transformed waterfront emerges in Astoria New wine, cocktail bars open Farming in the Columbia-Pacific Plant-based eating on the coast
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Our Picks
Eat & Drink
Astoria
Long Beach
Peter Pan Market & Deli
Beach Bubble
By Peter Korchnak
By Lissa Brewer
Peter Pan Market & Deli has been a staple of the Astoria hilltop neighborhood since the late 1930s. Under new ownership from the early days of the pandemic, a group of neighbors took over the space in late summer 2020. The bustling spot retained a few popular items on the menu, including carrot cake, potato salad and a couple of sandwiches. But the rest is new. Peter Pan is one of the few places in Astoria offering paninis; the beverage menu boasts a range of local craft brews, wine and non-alcoholic options; and a specialty shelf carries a slew of locally-made goods. The neighborhood market and deli is continuing the long history of being a community hub. Peter Pan is a popular coffee, lunch and happy hour spot, with customers able to enjoy their food and drinks with both indoor and outdoor seating. Kids pop in after school for candy or chips and neighbors stop by for last-minute convenience staples like milk or eggs.
Enjoyed across Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore and other parts of Southeast Asia for decades, bubble tea has made a splash across the West Coast in recent years. Made with a base of tea, ice and tapioca clusters, bubble tea — also called boba — can be served with or without milk and makes a memorable treat for a day at the beach. Owners Diana and Robert Vasquez, originally from California, opened Beach Bubble in Long Beach, Washington, late last year. The couple has fond memories of picking up bubble tea with their children on trips to Portland before trying out recipes of their own. After relocating to the Long Beach Peninsula, the family decided to share their homemade teas with the community, opening a shop just blocks from the city’s boardwalk. Beach Bubble offers locally infused tea varieties like blackberry and lavender along with family favorites like chai. Try the shop’s signature floral mix made from petals and rose hips, or the hand-whisked matcha. Then choose from a selection of toppings like aloe and sea foam to add a coastal touch. If you’re looking for lunch, then consider adding in a taiyaki. This Japanese street pastry is a fish-shaped cake traditionally filled with sweet red bean, though the shop also offers both ham and cheese and apple pie versions. Visitors can also enjoy the spam musubi, a Hawaiian dish featuring rice and seaweed wrapping. Whether these are some of your favorite treats or you’ve yet to try them, this is a stop you won’t want to miss.
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Feasts. Eateries. Libations. Recipes.
Seaside
Cathlamet
Ruby’s Roadside Grill
River Mile 38 Brewing Co.
By R.J. Marx
By Alyssa Evans
Think of Ruby’s Roadside Grill in Seaside and you are immediately transported to a piece of Americana. The former gas station saw a transformation to the 1950s-style diner when Candace and David Remer put their signature touch on the menu and design. Nestled off U.S. Highway 101 near Avenue U, it offers what they describe as “the best burgers on the planet — and then some.” That may not be so far from the truth. The quality menu features both the predictable (Ruby’s chili, wings and burger baskets) and then the notso-predictable, like the Sleepy Monk burger and Chicago dog, as true to any Chicago-style hot dog on the Oregon Coast, with mustard, dill relish, tomato, pepperoncini, pickle spear, onions and celery salt. “We don’t do fast food, per se, but we do great food fast, quickly,” David Remer said. On Fridays they offer prime rib, inspired by the former Bigfoot’s restaurant next door — but beware, they often sell out, so call ahead. He said he fought the urge for just another fast food burger place, modeling his restaurant on California-style burger barns, with an anticorporate, anti-assembly line vibe. Dogs are their brand, and the top dog for the Remers is “Ruby” herself, the restaurant’s namesake. A black Labrador retriever, Ruby is now 10 and remains the face of the restaurant. She also travels everywhere with the couple. “I love dogs,” David Remer said. “We’re actually a little over the top with dogs.” While dogs aren’t allowed inside the restaurant, there is a canine cabana where pets and their owners can dine outside around a heated charcoal fire. You can even get your dog a 2-ounce beef patty, 5-ounce chicken breast or an all-beef hot dog for $2 each. Ruby’s also offers a highly-curated selection of local craft beers, including Ruby’s Good Girl Ale. Named after you know who.
If you weren’t looking for it, you could easily miss River Mile 38 Brewing Co. The brewery, located near Elochoman Slough Marina, is just a minute or so away from downtown Cathlamet, Washington. Though the town is full of unique historical spots, stores and restaurants, the brewery is worth a daytrip on its own. River Mile 38 is a great spot to celebrate community and craft beer. The brewery is the perfect spot to enjoy an afternoon or evening yearround for any craft beer enthusiast. It features about a dozen beers, many of which are IPAs and ales that are brewed on-site. Locally-sourced snacks like chevre from Skamokawa Farmstead Creamery and traditional treats like Chex Mix are also available to purchase. Though River Mile 38 doesn’t have a full food menu of its own, customers are welcome to bring in food to enjoy. The Pizza Mill, a popular local takeout spot, is just a block north of the brewery. Once you’ve picked your drink, you can stay inside or head out to a large patio that features a great view of the marina. You can also take your drink to-go if you prefer. If you choose to stay, you can play a game or a puzzle while you enjoy your drink. River Mile 38 also regularly hosts local musicians, artisan markets, fundraisers, trivia nights, yoga sessions and other events.
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Eat & Drink
A transformed
WATERFRONT Breweries, hotel reimagine a once run down area of Astoria
A
Words: Abbey McDonald
• Images: Lydia Ely & Hailey Hoffman
s the years flowed by, the Astoria waterfront has seen businesses rise and fall. While time brought changes, enterprises on the iconic strip tried to hold on to the past. Its most recent developments are no exception, with renovations and construction incorporating retired cannery beams and industrial style. Buoy Beer Co. and Fort George Brewery Business owners and the city have both expanded in old waterfront have focused on the balance buildings, and the Bowline Hotel has between authenticity and reimagined a former seafood processing keeping up with the demands plant into a luxurious place to stay. Business owners and the city have of the 21st century. focused on the balance between authenticity and keeping up with the demands of the 21st century. “The Riverwalk was built as something that locals would be able to use as well as visitors,” said City Manager Brett Estes. He said the waterfront should hold on to its sense of place. “That things don’t have a carnival feel, that the authenticity of Astoria remains in places, is key and very important to the city,” Estes said.
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Our Coast Magazine 2022
Buoy Beer Co.’s building still displays an old sign from the fish processing plant that resided there before. — Lydia Ely photo
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Eat & Drink
Upper photo: A crane moves a piece of brewing equipment into Buoy Beer. — Hailey Hoffman photo Lower photo: A brewery worker monitors a batch of beer at Buoy Beer Co.
‘Bringing manufacturing back to the waterfront’ Buoy Beer’s recent expansions aim to further its reputation as a waterfront destination. Its dock between 7th and 8th streets had previously been a Bornstein Seafoods fish processing plant that sat vacant for nearly a decade until Buoy’s founding in 2013. “Before we had this building it was an abandoned building,” said Jessyka Dart-McLean, the brewery’s marketing manager. “The idea of bringing manufacturing back to the waterfront, of keeping in that history, has been a fluidity that we really enjoy.” That building served as Buoy Beer’s production center until last fall. Since then, the company has expanded across the trolley tracks into the former Video Horizons space. “We started looking for, ‘what do we do next time to brew more beer?’ and we talked about it a lot. And then at the beginning of the pandemic we needed some extra space to have beer drinkers,” Dart-McLean said. When Video Horizons moved out, Buoy added in a beer garden. Then they brought some serious equipment. The new facility connects to the original with piping that moves beer overhead across the Riverwalk. Outside its doors, tanks process wastewater and the coolant glycol. Inside, the smell of hops slams the senses. Two-story tall kegs tower above, reachable through a network of metal catwalks that vibrate slightly from the drone of machinery. A brewer stands above to monitor the temperament of the batch using a computer screen. The expansion has allowed Buoy to increase its keg capacity. Cofounder Dave Kroening said new equipment will also allow them to refine their process with greater control. “Obviously when you expand you’re gonna be making more, but the other piece is the quality of the equipment and that the team works well together,” Kroening said. “I think the beer, which has always been great, is only going to get better now.” Last summer, Buoy Beer closed its main kitchen because of issues with pilings beneath it. The brewery has since offered a limited food menu. Next door, construction has continued on the company’s Pilot House Distilling expansion. Plans for the two-story distillery include a restaurant and tasting room.
A return to canning Keeping the feeling and function of a working waterfront is complex. Megan Leatherman, Astoria’s community development director, said the city’s unique needs keep her job interesting. “I think the challenges of it are interesting to me,” Leatherman said. “There’s the historic aspects of all of the buildings being pretty much 100 years old and the repurposing of some of the spaces is also really interesting to me.” Along Marine Drive, a warehouse which once canned salmon has been transformed into Fort George Brewery’s center of production. Today, shiny new equipment fills cans of beer. “It’s a pretty cool spot,” said Chris Nemlowill, Fort George’s co-founder. “It’s got incredible history, the spot where we’re at down the waterfront.” The brewery’s move greatly expanded Fort George’s keg capacity, with room to install additional kegs, tanks and fermenters. Nemlowill said he’s excited to be a part of the changes along the river. “It’s great because I grew up in Astoria,” Nemlowill said. “Astoria was very based in seafood and wood products, and to get another leg under the table for the community I think is really good. I think the fermentation sector is a great future for the area.” 48
Our Coast Magazine 2022
Clockwise from left: Fort George Brewery co-founder Chris Nemlowill walks outside the brewery’s new brewery and canning facility on the Astoria waterfront. Fresh cans of Fort George’s City of Dreams pale ale travel down the line to be packaged. The new facility. — Hailey Hoffman photos
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Eat & Drink This was the first time we’ve taken anything that wasn’t a hotel and turned it into a hotel.
Clockwise from left: The Bowline Hotel lobby hosts The Knot, a bar and restaurant serving coffee, meals, and alcoholic beverages. The Bowline is just east of Buoy Beer on the Astoria Riverwalk. Silverware is set out for patrons of The Knot. The hotel’s decor is subtle and rustic, put together for a luxurious feel. — Lydia Ely photo
New life for seafood processing plant The waterfront changes aren’t limited to the beer and spirits sectors, though. The Bowline Hotel moved in next door to Buoy Beer after two years of renovations to a former seafood processing plant. Owners of the Bowline sought to bring a new life to the building while paying homage to its history, said Tiffany Turner, CEO of Adrift Hospitality. “This was the first time we’ve taken anything that wasn’t a hotel and turned it into a hotel. So it was a much different project, and then you add in the complications of building over the water and everything that provides,” Turner said. “I think it was a big challenge for everyone. Our builder, ourselves, the city of Astoria did their best through a global pandemic.” While reconstructing the space, they wanted to juxtapose historical elements with modern luxury. That aesthetic carries through to exposed wooden beams from the original structure above a chic cocktail bar. Tungsten-style bulbs glow orange against cement floors. Fireplaces create a cozy atmosphere in the hotel’s rooms. Photos at the Bowline provided by the Clatsop County Historical Society showcase the old working waterfront and the workers who ran it. Turner grew up in Long Beach, Washington, and said she hopes the hotel becomes a space where the community feels welcome and will be proud of its past. “It seems like the community’s really wrestling with how to responsibly and authentically grow, and I think that’s appropriate,” Turner said. “Making sure that we’re paying attention to the lasting impact of what we create. And I think that it’s a hard line to walk. I think Astoria, both as a community and as a municipality, are really taking that responsibility pretty seriously. And that’s good.” Other sections of the waterfront are also being eyed for revitalization. The city and Port of Astoria have been working on a development plan along the river in Uniontown. New restaurants and businesses have moved in along the waterfront stretching down to Pier 39. The city expects a brighter Riverwalk later this year. New lighting will be installed between Uniontown and the historic downtown area and further down toward 39th Street. New signage and maps are also expected. The city plans to improve accessibility alongside the Riverwalk’s trolley tracks, and will build a Portland Loo-style restroom at the Astoria Nordic Heritage Park. 50
Our Coast Magazine 2022
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Our Coast Magazine 2022
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Eat & Drink
taste CLASSIC
Astoria has seen a number of new wine and cocktail bars open over the past few years. With staples like WineKraft and Shallon Winery and choices too at Bridge and Tunnel Bottleshop & Taproom and Bridgewater Bistro, these new bars offer up their own distinct atmospheres and add to the richness of options in town.
The Knot Bar
1 9th St., Astoria | www.bowlinehotel.com What was once a seafood processing plant at the mouth of the Columbia River is now one of Astoria’s newest and swankiest lounges to grab a cocktail, glass of wine, beer or small plate. Tucked into the entry of the newly-opened Bowline Hotel on 9th Street is The Knot Bar, providing locally-sourced drinks and foods with an upscale vibe. The eatery serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. It’s hard not to be whisked into another world while gazing through the venue’s expansive windows to views of the cargo ships and freighters making their way down the Columbia River. The mashup of exposed wooden beams from the original cannery and elegant leather furniture gives the venue a nautical feel. Even the bar itself is a nod to the history of the area. The wood was salvaged from a cranberry bog and is about 300 years old. During the drier months, guests can dine outside for a patio experience that highlights the beauty of Astoria. The tables and chairs are prime spots to watch sea lions and other coastal wildlife in action. Fire pits are available to keep guests cozy when the temperature drops. The bright and airy venue has a food and cocktail list that evolves seasonally to showcase the flavors of the Pacific Northwest. The bar also caters to patrons who wish to enjoy a nonalcoholic beverage, serving specialty concoctions that deliver a luxurious experience. Kombucha is available, and the flavors rotate with the seasons. — Nikki Davidson
The Knot Bar offers a variety of cocktails, wines, beers and non-alcoholic drink. Emily O’Connor presents a drink at The Knot Bar. Lydia Ely photo
Nikki Davidson photo
Lydia Ely photo
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Eat & Drink
The Vineside at Pier 39 in Astoria. Lydia Ely photos
The Vineside 100 39th St., Astoria | www.thevineside.com Looking to commemorate this century’s roaring ‘20s in a historic Astoria location? Look no further than The Vineside, complete with Art Deco-reminiscent trimmings in the rustic setting of the old cannery on Pier 39. Owned by Delaree Reilly and her daughter, Autumn Haile, both schooled in the vineyards of California, the wine bar dedicates the majority of its menu to local wines from the Pacific Northwest. For a crisp blend, Haile recommends SoDo Cellars’ Love Birds’ Rosé, sourced from Washington’s Columbia Valley. For red drinkers, she recommends another from the region, the Basel Cellars Claret. White wine fans will enjoy Day Wines’ Twinkle, Twinkle, a citrusy blend from the woman-owned winery based in Dundee. Snackers, fear not. The Vineside also serves charcuterie boards, bread and more. For those that prefer hops over grapes, there are an array of beers as well as cider and non-alcoholic options. The bar also hosts events, including a live music night on Thursdays, monthly mystery wine nights, and some seasonal celebrations. — Lydia Ely 56
Our Coast Magazine 2022
Brut Wine Bar owner Lisa Parks pours a glass of wine. Katie Frankowicz photo
Hailey Hoffman photo
Brut Wine Bar 240 10th St., Astoria | www.brutwineastoria.com About a block away from the Astoria Riverwalk, Brut Wine Bar offers an intimate space and large selection of wine to choose from. Owner Lisa Parks opened the bar and retail shop in 2019, bringing a selection of wines from around the world and Pacific Northwest. Parks said her love for wine started after a trip to Paris more than two decades ago. When she returned to her former home in Colorado she found a down-to-earth wine shop owner who helped her learn more about the craft.
Parks brings that same nonjudgmental and friendly atmosphere to Brut. With seating inside and out, people can choose one of the featured wines by the glass or purchase a bottle. Parks also offers a selection of beer and cider, and small plates of food. The indoor space has a dark, 1920s feel, with a brick wall and custom walnut bar. The outdoor seating in front of the shop is a popular, casual spot on sunny days to share a bottle with friends. After having a glass of wine or two, enjoy a walk on the Astoria Riverwalk or choose from any number of nearby restaurants. — Nicole Bales
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farm
FRESH The region’s farmers help supply an abundance of local food Words: Nicole Bales • Images: Lydia Ely
The Columbia-Pacific has seen an array of new small farms sprout up over the past decade. From produce to flowers to meat and poultry, people can purchase many of their groceries directly from farmers at farmers markets, grocers like the Astoria Co+op, Gathered Bakeshop & Market in Astoria and through subscription services. Customers can often find locally grown food on menus at restaurants up and down the coast, from Astoria to Wheeler and on the Long Beach Peninsula. 46 North Farm
Teresa Retzlaff walks through rows of plants growing in a greenhouse at 46 North Farm in Olney.
Eat & Drink Jessika Tantisook, the executive director of the North Coast Food Web, said that while the farming community has become more coordinated and supported over the years, there is still more work to be done. “We want the North Coast to be a great place to be a small food producer,” she said. The food web offers programs to support small farms with their business models and getting products to market. The nonprofit’s weekly online farmers market brings together produce, eggs, meat and other goods from dozens of vendors within a 100 mile radius of Astoria. The food web saw demand for local food increase dramatically during the coronavirus pandemic. The Astoria Food Hub, a recent addition to the growing community, planned retail space along Marine Drive for locally-grown and made products, along with educational initiatives and commercial kitchens for producers. There are also plans to provide cold and dry storage and a distribution hub for Community Supported Agriculture subscriptions.
‘There’s so many more resources’
Teresa Retzlaff, who owns 46 North Farm in Olney with her husband, Packy Coleman, helped found the food web a decade ago. She said her goal has been to help build the type of community and support network she wishes she had when she started farming in 2004. “I’m finally starting to feel like there’s a community of farmers out here,” Retzlaff said. “I think about that person who I was back in 2004 who started farming, and I felt really kind of isolated and lonely because there just wasn’t anyone else out here to talk to about it and to learn from. “Now there’s just so many people, and there’s so many more resources now for small farmers that are trying to get started out here,” she said. “All of those things start to add up to just a much more vibrant and diverse and exciting farming community out here.” Retzlaff said as the farming community has grown, so too has the customer base. She noticed more people care about where their food comes from and want to support local farmers. At 46 North Farm, Retzlaff focuses on cut flowers and specializes in other crops such as garlic, fresh herbs, winter squash, dry beans and leafy greens. The farm also makes jams and pickles. She supplies the Astoria Co+op with cut flowers, plant starts, fresh cut herbs and produce. She also sells flowers at Gathered Bakeshop & Market. The farm has a weekly Community Supported Agriculture program where people can sign up to receive a weekly flower bouquet. Customers can also buy flowers directly from the farm for events like weddings or funerals. 60
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“We’re very interested in the local, regional food supply chain here … and teaming up with other farmers in the area to have everybody be lifted up and get all of our products out to consumers.
Low Tide Farms At left from top: A big pig, piglets share a meal and Brenda Vassau gives one of her sows a head scratch at Low Tide Farms in Clatskanie.
A variety of distribution options Brenda Vassau and her partner, Kathleen Russell, started raising pigs at Low Tide Farms in Clatskanie in March 2020. They plan to raise 90 pigs this year, a number they expect to sustain. They sell their pasture raised pork through online markets through the North Coast Food Web, Food Roots in Tillamook and Second Mile Marketplace and Food Hub in Vancouver, Washington. Vassau said having the online markets have been crucial to helping get their product out into the community. “It’s amazing for the area to have North Coast Food Web,” Vassau said. “They’ve done an amazing job and it does certainly lift us up.” The markets led them to selling pork to The Salmonberry restaurant in Wheeler and to a chef for the U.S. Coast Guard. “We’re very interested in the local, regional food supply chain here … and teaming up with other farmers in the area to have everybody be lifted up and get all of our products out to consumers so that we aren’t worried about supply chains and things like that,” Vassau said. “We really want our product to get up and down the North Coast and be in this region.”
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Eat & Drink
Blackberry Bog Farm
Right: Bonnie Thompson of Blackberry Bog Farm in Svensen waters plant starts.
Agritourism activities Scott Thompson and his wife, Bonnie, own Blackberry Bog Farm in Svensen where they grow a variety of crops, raise cattle and offer a range of agritourism activities. Their on-site farm stand opened to the public in March, where they sell a variety of nursery plants, including hanging baskets, bedding plants, vegetable starts, herbs, fruit trees and shrubs. As they move into the rest of the year, they sell a variety of vegetables, fruits, berries and cut flowers. Customers can also purchase the produce through a Community Supported Agriculture subscription, which typically amount to a weekly milk crate of produce. The farm’s cut flower subscription provides a weekly bouquet of flowers between July and August. There is also a bakery on the farm with freshly made scones, cookies, pound cakes, breads, cobblers and pies made from fruits and vegetables grown at the farm. Producing jams, jellies and pickles have also become a bigger slice of what the farm produces. Thompson has two booths at the Seaside Farmers Market, one for the crops and produce and one for the bakery items. As for the agritourism activities, the farm invites people to make their own flower baskets during the first week of April. On Mother’s Day they deliver flower baskets, and in October families can come to the farm to enjoy the pumpkin path and patch. Other activities include making a garden starter pack and wreaths and farm to table dinners on the property. Thompson has enjoyed adding different activities over the years but is not planning to expand on the agritourism front. “I don’t want this to become a commercial attraction,” he said. “I want it to stay a farm.” 62
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Eat & Drink
THE FOOD
SCENE
Words: Alyssa Evans • Images: Lydia Ely
Plant-Based
EATING in the Columbia-Pacific region
The food scene along the Long Beach Peninsula and North Coast is noted for its freshly caught seafood and locally crafted beer. However, plant-based eating has made a splash across the U.S. in recent years as foodies have transitioned away from meats, either eating less or giving it up altogether –– and for vegetarians, vegans and the like, the coast has been a veggie-friendly locale for years. Dozens of restaurants up and down the Columbia-Pacific specialize in delicious vegan and vegetarian dishes. Next time you’re in the mood for a meatless Monday, be sure to visit one of these spots.
El Compadre Restaurant
WARRENTON AND LONG BEACH
El Compadre offers a small but fantastic set of vegetarian dishes as well as other choices which can be altered upon request. The restaurant’s vegetarian options include nachos, enchiladas, quesadillas and veggie burritos. While the restaurant offers several options for nachos, the super nachos are a town favorite, featuring beans, cheese, tomatoes, sour cream and guacamole. The veggie burrito is another great choice, especially if you’re in the mood to eat lots of deliciously seasoned greens. Each dish comes as a large portion, so bring your appetite or plan to take home some leftovers. To complete your meal, consider adding one of the restaurant’s signature mixed drinks or desserts. The sopapillas are a special treat, a set of chopped, deep-fried flour tortillas topped with syrup, cinnamon and sugar.
Fort George Brewery
ASTORIA
Though Fort George is best known for its brews, its plant-based menu options are worth the hype too, featuring vegetarian and vegan-friendly starters, salads, entrees and desserts. The brewery’s pizza menu features some delicious vegetarian options. The menu’s traditional options, including cheese and margherita, are classic and reliable staples. For those in search of a more unique option, consider trying either the Forest or the Popeye pizza. The Forest features mushrooms, arugula, white sauce and a selection of cheeses. The Popeye features spinach, roasted garlic, marinated tomatoes, red onion, red sauce and an assortment of cheeses. If you aren’t in the mood for pizza, consider trying the Fort’s veggie burger, featuring locally-sourced greens and the brewery’s popular “Fort Sauce,” a tasty condiment that’s similar to fry sauce. The Fort’s sides, salads and desserts are also delicious. Try the cheesy bread as an appetizer and take home a slice of carrot cake. Green Door Cafe
Left: The Green Door Café’s menu features food designed to fit a variety of dietary needs, such as this vegan mushroom-cauliflower stir fry, shown with some of their house-made cold pressed juices.
Eat & Drink
Sahara Pizza
ASTORIA
If you’re in the mood for a decadent vegetarian pizza, Sahara Pizza may be just the place for you. This Astoria pizzeria offers a great variety of vegetarian options including their signature pizzas as well as pasta, salads and breads. Vegetarian-friendly pizza options include the Pumba, Margherita, Herbivore, Jungle Veggie, Four Cheese Decadence and Northwest Territory. The Pumba, dubbed “Mom’s favorite,” features fresh garlic, feta cheese, marinated artichoke hearts, olives, tomatoes, mozzarella cheese and basil pesto. The Northwest Territory is another delicious basil pesto choice and features garlic, walnuts, green apple, mozzarella, cinnamon, onions and mushrooms. The Jungle Veggie is another favorite, featuring alfredo sauce, mozzarella and vegetables. Sahara’s pasta choices include fettuccine alfredo, angel hair marinara and four cheese creamy angel hair pasta. Each is vegetarian-friendly, delicious and will leave you wanting more. Finish off your order with one of Sahara’s salads or a serving of garlic bread (or both!).
Tokyo Teriyaki
ASTORIA AND SEASIDE
Tokyo Teriyaki is one of the coast’s best spots for vegan sushi and teriyaki dishes. If you’re in the mood for sushi, you’re in luck. There are several vegan options available, all with a different mix of delicious tastes and textures. The fried avocado roll is the restaurant’s signature vegetarian crunchy-style roll. Hosomaki rolls, thin rolls filled with rice and wrapped in seaweed, include cucumber, natto and shinko varieties. The restaurant’s uramaki rolls are another specialty dish, including the avocado and the asparagus tempura rolls. These are decadent options, also featuring rice filling and seaweed wraps. The restaurant’s futomaki rolls are similar, featuring thicker seaweed-wrapped rolls including the veggie tempura and futo veggie styles. If you’re not looking for sushi, there are still plenty of other options to choose from. Try a teriyaki bowl featuring tofu or spicy tofu; noodle soup; veggie or tofu yakisoba and fried rice. Round out your meal by ordering an edamame appetizer.
Thai Me Up
Fort George Brewery
Photos from top: Fort George’s vegan pepperoni pizza on the cutting board. Adam Smith pulls a pizza out of Fort George’s wood fired pizza oven. Pizza in the oven.
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SEASIDE
Luckily for locals, there are an abundance of fantastic Thai restaurants on the Long Beach Peninsula and North Coast. Thai Me Up is an excellent choice. The restaurant’s vegetarian appetizers include crispy spring rolls, tofu salad rolls and fried tofu. Main dish options include noodle dishes, curry, soup and salad. If you’re looking for noodles, consider adding veggies or tofu to the pad thai, pad see ew, pad kee mow, pad woon sen or Thai sukiyaki. If you’d rather have a sauteed dish, there are several tasty options to choose from, including the Thai garlic pepper and the spicy basil dishes. Choose from a variety of curry options, including popular options such as yellow, red, green and pineapple curries. The restaurant’s mango and papaya salads, as well as the tofu tom yum and tom kha soups are also delicious vegetarian dishes.
Surfer Sands
LONG BEACH
Surfer Sands, one of Long Beach’s most popular lunch spots, can be found downtown, just off Pacific Avenue. This quaint sandwich shop has seen many reinventions, but remains a classic stop. Since taking over in 2017, owner Jon Steel has made it his mission to sell delicious sandwiches and smoothies, including many plantbased options. Though the shop is known locally for its authentic Philly cheesesteak, the Veggie Surfers sandwiches are some of the best you can find on the coast. All of Steel’s sandwiches are made with homemade bread and fresh ingredients. The portions are massive, so consider splitting a sandwich or keeping half for dinner. Other vegetarian options include the North Shore, Goofy Foot and Malibu –– all delicious sandwiches. To perfect your meal, be sure to grab one of Surfer Sands’ smoothies, then head over to one of the local beaches and enjoy.
More options Other great spots for vegetarians and vegan dining along the coast include Green Door Cafe, Būsu, Crepe Neptune, Curry & Coco, El Catrin Mexican Cuisine, Galettis Spaghetti, Good Bowl, Good to Go, Himani Indian Cuisine, La Cabaña de Raya, Mai Tong Thai Food, Nekst Event, Nisa’s Thai Kitchen, Public Coast Brewing Co., Roll and Bowl and the Shelburne Pub. Green Door Cafe
Top three photos: Wade and Kendall Padgett-McEuen stand inside Green Door Cafe, the health-focused restaurant they opened in Astoria in 2020. The cafe’s menu features food designed to fit a variety of dietary needs + juice, coffee, smoothies.
Surfer Sands
Bottom two photos: Surfer Sands in Long Beach features the North Shore sandwich which includes sunflower seeds, pineapple, cucumber, Swiss cheese, tomato, lettuce and Greek house dressing.
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Astoria’s Hidden Gem CALL 503.325.8221 No Appointment Necessary emeraldheights@charter.net
OFFICE HOURS Mon - Fri 9AM to 6PM Saturday 10AM to 2PM Closed Sundays 68
Our Coast Magazine 2022
The Community of Emerald Heights is nestled on 200 acres of wooded wonderland and has 300 apartment homes. From small and large 2 to 3 bedroom floor plans, you are sure to find the right fit for you! On City Bus Routes • Playground Areas Covered Bus Stops • On-Site Laundry Minutes from Downtown Community Center Renovation
Live & Stay Coastal road trips Free and inexpensive things to do Trailkeepers: A photo essay The Rosebriar Mansion is restored
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Our Picks
Live & Stay
Manzanita
Willapa Bay
Coast Cabins
Camping on Long Island
By Nicole Bales
By Nikki Davidson
In the heart of town, couples, individuals and groups can find an intimate hotel hideaway with a variety of cabins to choose from. Each cabin is unique and nestled in lush, calming green grounds with bamboo and water features throughout the property. The spa cabins include private outdoor hot tubs and RAIS fireplaces, lounging couches and patio areas. The communal fire pit is a popular spot for sipping on wine and roasting s’mores. Closer to the beach and perfect for families, Coast Cabins has three lofts, each with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a full kitchen and living room. Dogs are welcome at the lofts and can enjoy some pampering with Coast Cabins’ pet package. Visitors can also choose from two private homes. Windward has a midcentury modern design with windows overlooking the ocean. The three bedroom, two bath home includes a steam shower and sauna. Seacliff, a Scandinavian inspired cabin, has views of the ocean and Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain. It has three bedrooms and two and a half bathrooms. The home includes a private outdoor sauna and hot tub.
One of the most unique places to camp on the North Coast is on a remote island in the middle of the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge. Long Island is full of coastal forests, sandy beaches and muddy tidal flats rich with shellfish. Getting there is half the adventure: the island can only be accessed by boat. The changing tides influence the water levels, so extensive planning is crucial to execute a camping trip on Long Island properly. Kayaks and canoes are the most popular vessels to reach the 7-mile island, as motorized boats are prohibited. The island is quite large, and there are five different campgrounds with 20 campsites total. Each designated site has a picnic table and fire ring and access to vault toilets. Sites are available on a first-come, firstserve basis. The natural oasis is rich in history. It served as a place to camp, hunt, fish and gather oysters and clams for the Chinook, Chehalis and Kwalhioqua tribes for about 2,000 years. Today, the island continues to be used as a place for spiritual and cultural events. The island is teeming with wildlife, including black bears, elk, porcupines and other creatures you won’t get a chance to see in a more traditional campground. It has several long hiking paths that keep visitors busy for multiple days. One of the most popular places to explore by foot is Cedar Grove, a collection of trees in the middle of the island, estimated to be over 900 years old. Long Island is a popular place for hunters during the early elk archery season in September, though staying during this period does require registration. Visitors can harvest clams and oysters year-round on two different island bays with a Washington state shellfish license.
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Homes. Rentals. Hotels. Campgrounds.
Ilwaco
Astoria
North Head Lighthouse
The Wheelhouse
By Nikki Davidson
By Jonathan Williams
The keeper’s quarters at North Head Lighthouse offer a rare opportunity for guests to step back in time and experience what it’s like to live in a remote lighthouse on the scenic and rugged Washington state coastline. The Ilwaco lighthouse is one of the best-preserved stations in the Pacific Northwest. Many of the historic buildings on the grounds are still standing. North Head Lighthouse was completed in 1898 to aid ships coming into the Columbia River from the northern Pacific. The coastline is particularly deadly, nicknamed the Graveyard of the Pacific for the more than 2,000 ships wrecked in the area. Washington State Parks renovated the century-old keeper’s quarters into vacation rentals in 2000. The historic buildings were built in 1902 to house lightkeepers and their families and sit just a short walk away from North Head Lighthouse and breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean. Each residence has three bedrooms, a bathroom, kitchen and a living room with a TV and DVD player. The lodges are fully furnished with period pieces and modern comforts, providing a cozy refuge from the harsh elements on the coast. Visitors can expect to feel the power of the area from within the sturdy walls of the keeper’s dwellings; the location is considered one of the windiest places in the United States, with wind velocities regularly reaching more than 100 mph. Visitors have plenty to do nearby, including miles of hiking and biking trails, sandy beaches, the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center and the ruins of World War II-era tunnels and bunkers at Fort Canby. North Head Lighthouse offers seasonal tours, and visitors can climb to the lantern room to get spectacular views of the coast.
What could be better than sleeping over the Columbia River? Waking up to expansive views across it. This and more are what The Wheelhouse above the Pier 11 dock in Astoria has to offer guests. The two-bedroom nautically-named Airbnb is near many attractions, including shops and restaurants, the Astoria Riverwalk, Columbia River Maritime Museum and local breweries. Visitors can also see a variety of boats — including bar pilots and ships — moving up and down the waterfront. The venue features panoramic views, a large living space, kitchen and natural lighting as well as luxurious bedrooms with maritime decorations and outdoor patios. The living room couch also doubles as a hideaway bed. There is no elevator, so guests will need to be able to walk two flights of stairs. For availability, go to bit.ly/3IXanyb
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We are always
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174 First Ave. N. Ilwaco, WA 360-642-3181 oceanbeachhospital.com 72
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With over 185,000 sustainably managed acres, our forestlands provide clean drinking water for 15 rural communities. Our properties are open year round for permitted, non-motorized, public access, so come explore our forests today. Free Permits available at: permits.greenwoodresources.com
Full Service Pet Grooming Pet Food Collars & Leash Pet Beach Gear Other Pet Supplies Call 503-739-7347 or visit our website at
www.lewisandbark.dog 753 1st Avenue, Seaside
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Live & Stay
road trips Words: Emily Lindblom • Images: Lydia Ely
Off the beaten path
Plan a day or overnight excursion to these places that are just around the bend Whether you’re a local or just passing through, the Columbia-Pacific holds much to see and do. While the coastal meccas of Astoria, Seaside, Cannon Beach and Long Beach, Washington, dominate, there are other equally exciting locales to visit. This guide explores some of those off the beaten path places to go for an overnight trip or just for the day.
Clockwise from top: A gam e at North Coast Pinball lounge in Nehalem. An exhibit sharing history of local Native American trib es at the Nehalem Valley Hist orical Society in Manzanita. Trailsid e Vintage in Nehalem. A sailo r climbs up the ratlines on a model of a ship displayed at the historical society.
Wheeler & nehalem
Nehalem has a variety of attractions and shops. Stop by the North Coast Pinball lounge and kite shop to try your hand at the classic arcade game. Find upcycled gifts and second-hand clothing at Trailside Vintage or discover exciting vinyl records at Nehalem Riverside Trading Co. The Nehalem Valley Historical Society in Manzanita features exhibits about the history of the area. Named after the native Nehalem people, Nehalem means “where the people live.” After incorporating in 1899, the town became an agricultural center focused on dairy farming. Nearby Wheeler became a logging town and loggers would build railroad lines to move their lumber. Later, commercial salmon fishing grew to be the predominant industry. Places to stay in Wheeler Places to stay include the Old Wheeler Hotel, in Wheeler Wheeler on the Bay Lodge and various bed and breakfasts. include the Old At Wheeler on the Bay Lodge, Wheeler Hotel, guests who stay two nights get to use a kayak for free to explore the Wheeler on the bay. Guests can also bring their Bay Lodge and own boats to dock at the hotel, or rent boats at the Wheeler Marina various bed and or Kelly’s Brighton Marina to go breakfasts. crabbing and fishing. “Just staring out the window here is incredible because of the wildlife,” said Martha Taylor, co-owner of Wheeler on the Bay Lodge. “We have so many birds, and river otters live under our dock so they come out each day to eat.” Taylor said there are a handful of shops in Wheeler, including Wheeler Station Antiques. Pelican & Piper, a gift shop, offers original artwork printed on clothing. The Salmonberry restaurant offers homemade pastas, pizzas and sauces made from local ingredients as well as seafood for customers to enjoy to-go or on the deck.
nahcotta & oysterville
In the north part of Washington’s Long Beach Peninsula, people can take a walking tour to experience the history of Oysterville. This extensive tour of the town’s historic district begins at the Oysterville Church, established in 1892, and leads visitors on a journey through time from notable Victorian-era houses and cottages to such structures as the Oysterville Schoolhouse and ends with a stop at the Oysterville Cemetery that dates back to 1858.
From top: The Oysterville Church in Oysterville. Oyster Shells are piled next to the road in Ocean Park.
This area is the home of the Chinook, who traditionally gathered oysters in Willapa Bay. Nahcotta, named for Chief Nahcati, was the end of the Clamshell Railroad that brought oysters to San Francisco in the late 1800s. Today, it is where the Port of Peninsula operates a commercial fishing and shellfish industry. The port also has picnic areas overlooking the bay, a public boat launch, restrooms and showers. Nearby, the Willapa Bay Interpretive Center teaches visitors about the history of oyster harvesting as well as the wildlife of the bay.
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Live & Stay
23 stores • RV Parking
A Sasquatch statue seen from the upper Gnat Creek Trail near the Gnat Creek Hatchery and Gnat Creek Campground.
Caitlin Seyfried photo
Jewell & knappa
For those interested in elk, birds and deer, the Jewell Meadows Wildlife Area is the place to go. The area includes several viewing spots where visitors can stop to look for wildlife. While onlookers are likely to see elk and deer, there’s a chance they may get a rare glimpse of a coyote, cougar or bear, according to Braden Erickson, Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife technician for Jewell Meadows. In the winter, Erickson greets visitors with a tour of the area and a chance to ride on a hay wagon and feed the elk. While people should not feed wildlife on their own, they may do so during this organized program, which was canceled last year because of the pandemic. Another site around Jewell includes Lee Wooden Fishhawk Falls County Park. “It’s a pretty waterfall,” Erickson said. “It’s a half-mile hike to the waterfall and there are picnic tables there.” He added the forested areas surrounding Jewell are popular destinations for mushroom hunting, fishing in the Nehalem River or nearby Lost Lake, or hunting with a permit on logging company land or in the Clatsop State Forest. Those planning to stay overnight can choose the Elderberry Inn off U.S. Highway 26 or the Henry Rierson Spruce Run Campground further south along the Nehalem River. Further north near the Columbia River, Knappa is a destination for kayaking and cycling. This area is the traditional territory of the native Chinook, lower Chinook, Clatsop and Kathlamet people. From Knappa Dock Road, visitors can view sloughs, creeks, old buildings and farm animals. Kayaking enthusiasts may enjoy making their way around an island in Warren Slough or under a bridge in Blind Slough. Those who prefer to explore on foot may like to hike the Gnat Creek Trail near the Gnat Creek Hatchery and Gnat Creek Campground, a first-come, first-served place to stay. 76
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Live & Stay
Joys of the coast Inexpensive things to do anytime of year Words & Images: Lydia Ely
Finding affordable things to do on the coast isn’t always easy. But with some creativity, the options are endless. You can hop on the Astoria Riverfront Trolley or enjoy the views from the Astoria Column. Walk the boardwalk in Long Beach, Washington, Astoria’s Riverwalk and Seaside’s Prom. Play arcade games at Funland in Seaside and Long Beach and at Gizmo’s and Galactix in Astoria. See maritime species at the tide pools along the coast. Fly a kite or go clam digging. If you’re lucky, maybe even catch a sunset at the beach — just be sure to pack a camera so you can remember the views even on rainy days.
Hit the beach
There are many access points to take your four wheel drive onto the beach for a trunk picnic or sunset viewing.
Clamming
Arcade games
Kite flying
Tide pools
Clamming is a popular and accessible activity along the coast.
Take your kite to the beach for some free windy day fun.
Play arcade games at Funland in Seaside and Long Beach and at Gizmo’s and Galactix in Astoria. — Peter Korchnak photo
Bust out a tide chart and search for barnacles, mussels, starfish, and other sea life in the tide pools of the North Coast. Popular spots include Hug Point and Cannon Beach.
More photos on next page
Live & Stay
Astoria Riverfront Trolley
Take a one-hour round trip for $1 per boarding (ride as long as you like) or for $2 you can ride all-day long.
Climb the Astoria Column Visiting the Astoria Column is free for walkers and $5 for a yearly parking pass.
Astoria Riverwalk
Traverse the Astoria Riverwalk and read about wildlife and history along the Columbia River.
The Prom in Seaside
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Live & Stay
Trail keepers Group helps keep up the coast’s trails Words & Images: Lydia Ely
If you’ve spent any time on the North Coast, you’ve probably trekked some hiking trails. Maybe even done a number of them. But have you ever thought about who keeps them up? Here’s your chance to help. Trailkeepers of Oregon is an organization that helps with trail maintenance across the state. The group hosts a number of trail work parties throughout the year on the North Coast. 505,539 Feet of trails improved in 2021 464 Stewardship events in 2021 2,751 Volunteers in 2021 $507,399 in-kind value of volunteer time Oregon’s trails need upkeep and care. That’s where you come in. To get involved go to: trailkeepersoforegon.org
Photos clockwise from left: Emily Akdedian, North Coast stewardship coordinator for Trailkeepers of Oregon, shows her son, Marx, 3, how to brush organic matter off a bridge, while his brother, Demi, 6, looks over the railing during a trail party near Short Sand Beach. Before beginning work, members of a trail party gather at Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain’s North Trailhead to share introductions and discuss safety guidelines. Tools for volunteers to use at the trail party near Short Sand Beach. Trail party members pass the trail closure sign at North Neah-Kah-Nie Mountain Trail. The trail is closed due to damage sustained during a 2020 windstorm. Mark Gorman, left, and Emily Akdedian clear space for drain dips that encourage broad flow of water off a trail near Short Sand Beach.
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NEW LIFE FOR AN
OLD ROSE Words: Nikki Davidson • Images: Nikki Davidson, Hailey Hoffman & Lydia Ely
Couple reopens historic Rosebriar Mansion as vacation rental, wedding venue
A
fter years of quiet, the historic mansion that sits at 14th Street and Franklin Avenue in Astoria is buzzing again with activity. The big white house has withstood many lives in its more than 120 years of existence. Originally a personal home for Frank Patton, one of Astoria’s early successful businessmen, it transformed into a convent in the 1950s, then a hotel in the ‘90s, followed by an addiction treatment center for women in 2009. Now, it’s a hybrid space that incorporates much of the past in a brand new way.
The Rosebriar Mansion in Astoria.
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Live & Stay New owners Djordje and Trudy Čitović and their kids live in half of the home. The couple has begun renting out the other half of the mansion as an Airbnb and event space for large groups. The Čitovićs beamed while showing off the new common space for guests, a restored chapel, lined with stained-glass windows and antique furniture — lit by computerized color-changing LED lights. It’s just one testament to how far they’ve come in their mission to meld the old with the new inside an aging giant. The pair acknowledge that restoration of the 8,700 square foot, two-story home and carriage house has been a wild ride. Their journey is a rollercoaster of ups and downs that started before the deal on the property was finalized.
Trudy Čitović flips through a photo album of previous renovations at the Rosebriar.
Digging into the past The day the papers to purchase the property were signed, Djordje opened the door of the old chapel to find water. More than an inch of water settling into the floor and dripping down the walls. The drywall ceiling was dramatically sagging under the weight of a massive leak. He recalled working on a toilet that wouldn’t stop running in the room directly above the chapel the day before. What had seemed like a minor problem at the time was suddenly like a scene from “The Money Pit” with Tom Hanks. “The drywall was just holding water so I punched it to release it, and there was probably like a 10-foot hole in the ceiling,” Djordje laughed. “And then sure enough, the real estate agent walks in. I said ‘I take full responsibility, we’re still buying the place,’ and she just turns around and says, ‘I wasn’t here.’” The mansion needed a lot of work. The Čitovićs also discovered a puzzling electrical mess from years of renovations and a bat in the attic. “There was a women’s rehabilitation center here for 10 years and unfortunately they didn’t take great care of it,” said Trudy. “They painted the walls lime green. I would say that the spirit of it was there, but it was tarnished.” Djordje rolled up his sleeves amid a skilled labor shortage to take the lead on the restoration process. He became so involved that the contractors sometimes didn’t even realize they were deep in the dust and grime with the owner. “Not only are we saving money by my own sweat equity, but I’ve also learned a lot,” said Djordje. “I’ve spent a lot of time on YouTube. I don’t think this project would have been possible 10 to 15 years ago.” “Djordje has personally inspected every square inch of this house,” added Trudy. “From the crawl spaces underneath all the way to the attic. Pretty much every surface that you look at has either been refinished, repainted, sanded down, shined and just everything pretty much is different.” 86
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Djordje Čitović discovered the original wallpaper when stripping down the walls of the Rosebriar.
Rosebriar Mansion • 636 14th Street, Astoria • rosebriarmansion.com
Trudy and Djordje Čitović stand in the newly remodeled Rosebriar kitchen space.
“The way Astoria is set up there’s not many options for multi-room lodging. I think we’re unique in that if you have a group of 10, 12 or 15 people you can all stay together in one property.” Digging into the bones of a house built around the same time that houses were just getting electricity is expected to yield some surprises. Djordje joked he hoped to find some stashed gold, but he didn’t get that lucky. Instead, he found an old tobacco pouch during demolition in the kitchen. “He found some of the original wallpaper up by the front door and even though it’s all torn up we still kind of want to preserve part of it just because it’s some of that original history that you can’t get back,” Trudy said. Preserving the old-fashioned charm is a major priority for the couple, who received assistance from Vintage Hardware in Astoria to furnish the new rooms. “Our guiding principles were that we wanted it to feel really clean,” said Trudy. “Because we’ve been to bed and breakfasts where you feel the bedspread has been used for the last 50 years. So we wanted all white linens, everything can be bleached. Everything that does have fabric on it feels clean. You can sit down and touch the pillows and everything.”
Djordje added that they worked to create an aesthetic broad enough to appeal to a range of groups. “Some bed and breakfasts have dollies and all that stuff,” he said. “I just wanted — not a man cave, but I didn’t want it too flowery.”
An optimistic future In the first few weeks after it opened, the new Rosebriar Mansion didn’t have an empty weekend. Visitors have ranged from a group of male friends who met for a weekend of golfing and fantasy football to families gathering for weddings and funerals. The Čitovićs have set up the rentable part of the mansion to include seven bedrooms, each with a full bath, plus a large, private living and dining space and outdoor area that will lodge up to 16 guests. They feel the group lodging allows them to fill a critical need in Astoria. “The way Astoria is set up there’s not many options for multi-room lodging,” said Djordje.
“I think we’re unique in that if you have a group of 10, 12 or 15 people you can all stay together in one property.” The couple also lists the carriage house as a private Airbnb rental for up to four guests. It includes a bedroom, bathroom and living area. The Garden Suite features a king size bed, bathroom and private sitting room with a sofa for up to three guests. Trudy’s desire to hold weddings in the space may stem from her own family ties to the mansion. Her father, former Mayor Willis Van Dusen, married her stepmother in the back chapel of the Rosebriar Bed & Breakfast in the 1990s. She hopes to carry the positive reputation and memories that people have of the Rosebriar Bed & Breakfast into the future. “They did a good job the first time when they turned it into a bed and breakfast to keep some of the character,” said Trudy. “And that’s really our goal. Anytime there is character that can be brought back out we want to do that.” DiscoverOurCoast.com
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History & Heritage Nordic park comes to Astoria A historic tugboat gives tours of the North Coast Maritime tattoos A taxidermy museum in Tillamook
Our Picks
History & Heritage
Clatsop County
Chinook
Clatsop genealogical society
Fort Columbia State Park
By Alexandra Feller
By Rebecca Lexa
The Clatsop County Genealogical Society is full of researchers ready to fill in the empty branches of your family tree. Stephanie Miller, the group’s treasurer, has piloted genealogical research for a number of years. “Genealogy is a great way to connect with your personal heritage … there is always another great, great, great grandparent,” Miller said. Since the group formed in 1985, they have conducted several research projects to cultivate local Clatsop County genealogy records. Among these projects is Miller’s recent initiative to compile and digitize records from local Clatsop County cemeteries. By documenting these gravesites, Miller and her colleagues are preserving sometimes centuries-old records, and contributing to a large pool of data used around the world. A few years ago, Miller was contacted by a Finnish genealogist who was curious about an uncle who lived in Astoria. With cemetery records on hand, Miller was able to find the deceased uncle and a cluster of living descendants in Napa Valley. The relatives were able to connect and meet each other in Finland. Inquiries and breakthroughs like this are common for the society. The genealogical society has not been able to meet consistently during the pandemic, but the group is still able to help people who submit research inquiries through their website, www.clatsopcountygensoc.com. Lorraine Falls, the group’s president, said they are looking for people who are willing to take on leadership responsibilities. Dean Deonier, who provides technical support for the group, said a new wave of genealogical research is just getting started: The 1950 census records were just released in April. His interest in genealogy started in 2006. “It changes your perspective — I’m not alone in the world. I am part of a greater whole,” Deonier said
The U.S. Coast Guard’s presence is only the latest in a long line of U.S. military history at the mouth of the Columbia River. Both sides of the river have been home to military installations, and at Fort Columbia State Park you can see one of the most complete historic forts in the region. Situated at a strategic point overlooking the water on the Washington state side, the site was once one of several Chinook villages along the river. Fort Columbia began construction in the late 1890s, and was completed in 1904. It was active all through World War II, though the Japanese submarine that fired on Fort Stevens across the river did not engage Fort Columbia. In 1947 the fort was declared surplus before being transferred to Washington State Parks, who opened it to the public in 1951. It features its three original concrete artillery batteries, equipped with a variety of defensive equipment including disappearing guns that were lowered into a recess for reloading. The World War II-era Battery 246 has two concrete gun shelters; the guns within are two of only six of their type left in the world. What makes Fort Columbia unique is that almost all the original wooden buildings, including officers’ quarters, barracks and other fort buildings, are intact. Some are still inhabited by park staff, and two — Scarborough House and the Steward’s House — are used today as vacation rentals. The commanding officer’s house is now the interpretive center, staffed by volunteers 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. every day from July 1 to Sept. 5. Visitors can explore the batteries (with care), and walk the streets amid the historic quarters. Over 2 miles of trails uphill from the fort offer views and natural wonders. A Washington state Discover Pass is required; a day pass can be purchased at the kiosk in the parking area.
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Traditions. Cultures. Artifacts. Icons.
Astoria
Lower Columbia Danish Society By Lissa Brewer
Among the missions of the Lower Columbia Danish Society is to promote activities that foster a sense of “hygge.” The Danish and Norwegian word has no direct English translation, but refers to a sense of comfort in togetherness, health and simple pleasures. Think of a blanket by the fireplace, a casual dinner with friends, or even a greeting between family members over a video call. Amid the coronavirus pandemic, the group has held meetings via Zoom but were set to begin holding them in person again in April at Astoria’s Peace First Lutheran Church. Smørrebrød and other traditional recipe contests, folk costume shows, presentations and crafts are just a few of the Danes’ favorite activities. The Lower Columbia Danish Society was founded in 1975 to celebrate and share Danish culture with the Columbia-Pacific community. Many immigrant families, including Scandinavians, came to the region in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, bringing new dishes, festivals and traditions to the region. There is no membership fee and all are welcome to take part in the society’s activities, which can be found at lowercolumbiadanes.org.
Seaside
Seaside Museum & Historical Society By R.J. Marx
Once upon a time Seaside was a summer destination for visitors from Portland and beyond, delivered to the city via the daddy train. The train has long stopped running and U.S. Highway 26 is the preferred route, but the Seaside Museum & Historical Society still highlights the city’s days gone by through its archives, events and exhibits. Established in 1974, the museum offers a visual montage of Seaside’s unique mix of history, tourism and commerce, with special celebrations like the Prom Centennial, the Fourth of July Old-Fashioned Social and Holiday Tea. Along with new exhibits, visitors will see familiar galleries featuring the Seaside Fire Department, the Seaside Signal’s original printing press and a diorama depicting Seaside as it was in 1899. There’s also a remembrance of the 1959 visit to Seaside by John F. Kennedy, a U.S. senator at the time, when he spoke to the national conference of the American Federation of Labor. Visitors to the museum will see details on the 100th anniversary of the Prom, a look back at the Seaside Hotel and a revived and expanded Lewis and Clark exhibition, highlighting Seaside’s role as the end of the Lewis and Clark Trail. The library and research facilities are also well-used. In 1984, Butterfield Cottage, formerly located downtown, was moved next door to the museum. It has been restored to be used as a museum depicting a beach cottage and rooming house in 1912, inspired by consultants and women’s magazines of the time. The cottage is famous for hosting annual gingerbread teas every holiday season for more than 30 years.
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History & Heritage
The Astoria Nordic Heritage Park, under construction in this aerial shot, will have views of the Columbia River. — Lydia Ely Photo
PRESERVING
HISTORY Nordic park aims to educate, share the region’s Scandinavian heritage Words: Ethan Myers
W
• Images: Lydia Ely & Hailey Hoffman
hen planning for the 50-year anniversary of the Astoria Scandinavian Midsummer Festival, the idea of building a monument that could attract visitors year-round was tossed around. While many locals and visitors attend the popular festival every summer, some wanted a way to celebrate their Scandinavian heritage, and the history of Scandinavian immigrants coming to the area, outside of the third week in June. After years of gathering support and fundraising, the Astoria Nordic Heritage Park is nearly complete.
History & Heritage The park’s home will be off Marine Drive between 15th and 16th streets, with a view of the Columbia River and an entrance from the Astoria Riverwalk. Ground broke on the project in August, and is expected to finish in May, prior to this year’s festival. The park will feature a large circular plaza with a midsummer pole that will stand in the middle of the park. Other components will include a gateway arch leading to interpretive panels detailing Scandinavian heritage and their contributions to the North Coast; granite pillars and flagpoles dedicated to each Nordic country – Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden; and concrete prototypes of trolls. As construction sees significant progress and the finish line draws near, excitement is in the air. “It will be a relief too,” said Janet Bowler, the vice-chair for the project. But Bowler and the project’s leaders also recognize the work isn’t totally finished. “Then we need to raise enthusiasm to keep the fundraising to maintain the park and move on to the next steps,” Bowler said. “But it is going to be a good feeling — seeing it take place is great.”
A volunteer-driven project Two of the park’s main goals are to educate the public about Astoria’s Scandinavian heritage and remember the community’s roots in Scandinavian values and traditions. Bowler, a retired teacher from Astoria High School, was responsible for much of the grant writing and communications for the park. She deflects praise to the committee who oversaw the realization of the project. “It takes a whole team. It’s definitely taken teamwork,” Bowler said. Judi Lampi, the chair of the project and also a former educator, spent much of her time organizing and coordinating the many moving parts. The Astoria Scandinavian Heritage Association, a nonprofit created to operate as the fundraising arm for the midsummer festival, also assisted in the development of the park, thanks to its president, Loran Mathews. Mathews keeps track of finances for the park and helps with small things he can do on his computer. But he did not want to lead the effort for the park, he said. So Lampi and Bowler stepped up. “They have spent untold hours — the two of them — getting this all organized,” Mathews said. Keeping the region’s heritage alive was a big reason Mathews got involved with the community over 50 years ago. Although Mathews, who grew up in a German community in Kansas, does not have Scandinavian heritage like Lampi and Bowler do, he sees value in maintaining the history and stories of the North Coast’s immigrants. After the railroad was constructed from San Francisco to Astoria in the late 1800s, many Scandinavian fishermen, loggers and farmers settled in the area. “I think it was important to keep some of those things alive and recognize those families that came here,” said Mathews, whose in-laws have Scandinavian heritage. “... I just fit in with that. I always kind of said they adopted me.”
Local officials, contributors and members of the Astoria Scandinavian Heritage Association broke ground for the Astoria Nordic Heritage Park in August 2021. — Hailey Hoffman Photo
Loran Mathews speaks at the Astoria Nordic Heritage Park.
Est. 1987
Hailey Hoffman Photo
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A ramp under construction at the Astoria Nordic Heritage Park is seen from the air in January 2022. — Lydia Ely Photo
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History & Heritage
Rendering of Astoria Nordic Heritage Park.
Mathews points to the Garden of Surging Waves, a garden and park that recognizes Astoria’s Chinese heritage, as a useful piece for the city. He hopes to see the Nordic park do the same.
‘We didn’t want our story — the history — to disappear’ Because many of the park’s features are intricate designs, the group did extensive research to determine who should do what. The West Studio in Seattle along with Herrera Environmental and Crow Engineering in Portland created the park design and produced the engineering plans. Supply chain issues around getting metal, which was used to construct a decorative drainage system, caused construction to halt for a few months. While it took a number of pieces falling into place to see the park come to fruition, the project’s organizers always go back to one point: the fundraising. 98
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The park was able to collect $1.5 million, with six donors giving more than $75,000. Last April, Tony Larson and Shelly Tack donated $250,000, a significant boost that moved the project closer to its fundraising target. A $100,000 donation by the Cannery Pier Hotel & Spa put it across the finish line. “When we first started this, if anybody would have told us at that meeting that we were going to need to raise a million and a half dollars, I probably would have just ducked out,” Mathews said. “I would have just said, ‘No way is that going to happen.’” Bowler credits the Oregon Community Foundation, which gave the first $2,500 to spark interest in the project over six years ago. Lampi also noted the community’s support, as well as the group’s perseverance, for being able to reach their goal, particularly amid the coronavirus pandemic when many nonprofits struggled to raise money. After the park is completed, it will be dedicated and opened to the city as a kickoff to this year’s midsummer festival.
When the festival is over and much of the Scandinavian garb, dancing and food is put away, the group sees the park as an opportunity for yearlong activities. Mathews hopes the plaza will be used for dancing and music. Bowler and Lampi believe it will be a prime spot for educational tours, as well as a destination for cruise ship passengers visiting the area.
After the park is completed, it will be dedicated and opened to the city as a kickoff to the 2022 Scandinavian midsummer festival. “Astoria is changing. A lot of people are moving here. We didn’t want our story — the history — to disappear,” Lampi said. “That is a big purpose of the park — to tell the story and for people to remember the history of our city. “The Nordic community made a big contribution to the city.”
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History & Heritage
A RIVER POINT OF VIEW Words: Nikki Davidson
• Images: Lydia Ely
Tugboat tours provide passengers with stunning views, local history Launching a new tourism business on the eve of a worldwide pandemic could have been a recipe for disaster. But the newly-restored Arrow No. 2 tugboat is not sinking — it’s cruising through the choppy waves of the future. The boat spent a busy 50 years ferrying river pilots on the Astoria waterfront from the 1960s to 2012. When the tugboat retired it was reported to be the oldest working pilot launch on the West Coast. After an eight-year hiatus on the water and a major facelift, it returned to service as a tourism vessel last spring. The restored vessel’s captain plans to make it one of the few outside attractions open year-round in Astoria for historic tours.
Go to www.arrowtug.com for more information about Arrow No. 2 Waterfront tours. Also offering crabbing charters September through December. Call 503-791-6250 for availability.
C o o M w a A
Clockwise from top: Rides on the Arrow No. 2 often feature a close-up view of the changing of ship pilots. Arrow No. 2 owner and captain Mark Schächer shares facts about the water with passengers. Unique views of cargo ships are one of the features of touring on the Arrow No. 2.
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THE HISTORY TOURS CENTER ON ASTORIA’S MARITIME HISTORY BUT ADAPT TO EACH NEW SET OF PASSENGERS.
“The weather is nicer on the water in the wintertime than it is in the summer,” said Mark Schächer, the boat’s captain. “You can’t stand outside the boat, but unless you’ve been inside, you don’t realize that the visibility is so good because there are so many windows.” Restoring the vessel was a labor of love for Schächer, who has been working on local boats since he was 14 years old. Schächer is his own harshest critic, pouring his heart into the tiny details amid a supply shortage. His work has turned the weathered vessel into something of a luxury cruise experience, complete with a heated cabin and a restroom people actually want to use. “It’s kind of a working museum, just because this boat did so much, and was kind of a figure on the Astoria waterfront,” Schächer said. The history tours center on Astoria’s maritime history but adapt to each new set of passengers. Schächer finds that some people climb aboard to learn more about shipping history on the lower Columbia River, while others are content looking for signs of wildlife and relish the thrill of being out on the water. In some cases, it’s his passengers’ first experience on a boat. “There’s a ton of people who have lived in Astoria, or this area their whole life, who have never been out on the water,” Schächer said. “It’s something else to do in Astoria. Astoria’s history is all about maritime history, and there’s no interpretation of it without actually getting out on the river. It’s a completely different perspective.” Passengers on the restored boat have witnessed everything from whales, sea lions and river otters to bar pilot transfers on big ships working on the river. Schächer is quick to point out that no two tours are the same and he can’t make promises about exactly what people might experience. His dedication to making the trip memorable is clear, as he remembers nearly every guest that’s come aboard the vessel. “I have had a lot of people who have enjoyed tough waters,” Schächer said. “You just don’t know, you get a family with little kids and you think they’re going to be scared when water starts bouncing off the windows, but they think it’s so fun.”
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History & Heritage
Tattoo
A Maritime art form
M
Words: Julia Triezenberg
• Images: Courtesy Columbia River Maritime Museum
aritime tattoos have a long and complicated history. Cultures around the world have their own stories behind their designs, particularly in Japan and the Pacific Island nations.
Bert Grimm was one of the most renowned traditional tattoo artists in the country.
Traditional American maritime tattooing is said to have gotten its start after James Cook’s voyages in the South Pacific during the 1700s. Cook’s sailors got tattoos as souvenirs of their time at sea, and this connection to seafaring culture soon gave maritime tattoos their own singular style. Tattooing onboard sailing ships was risky and infections were common. The needles sailors used onboard were often the same needles used to mend the ship’s sails. As time went on, techniques became safer and the industry was able to expand. Samuel O’Reilly’s electric tattoo pen transformed tattooing into a much more efficient process starting in the 1890s and early 1900s. Sailors covered themselves in images that symbolized their lives at sea. Designs represented faraway loved ones, everyday duties, personal triumphs and the many superstitions that dictated life onboard. Many of these images started with distinct meanings and have evolved to how we understand them today.
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The fully-rigged ship was traditionally given to veterans of the journey around Cape Horn — an important trade route and hazardous waterway — before the opening of the Panama Canal in 1914. The tattoo depicts a ship with three or more masts and square-rigged sails that are fully deployed. During World War I and World War II, it was common to see the fully-rigged ship tattoo decorated with patriotic symbols — showing sailors’ support for their country. As technology advanced and mariners’ voyages became less treacherous, the fully-rigged ship has come to symbolize a more general appreciation for maritime life. Some maritime tattoos represent a sailor’s work onboard. The bosn’s anchors are a pair of crossed anchors that are usually tattooed between a mariner’s thumb and index finger. They are often a sign that someone has served as a boatswain’s mate — a role that manages any activities relating to a vessel’s external structure or seamanship. A rope tattooed around the wrist or “Hold Fast” written across the knuckles indicate a sailor’s career as a deckhand. It’s said that having Hold Fast on each of a deckhand’s fingers would give them the grip they needed to work with the ship’s lines and rigging. Another common tattoo is a swallow — trendy in recent years among more land-based travelers. The swallow has been attributed several meanings over the years. Many say that each swallow on a sailor’s body indicates 5,000 miles at sea, which is particularly impressive given how perilous a life at sea can be. Some mariners get swallow tattoos as tokens of protection or goodwill. It was widely believed that if a person died at sea, the spirit of the swallow would carry their soul to heaven — an idea that may have originated from the ancient Greeks and Romans. Given all the dangers someone could face spending weeks in the open ocean, many tattoos reflect the superstitions sailors developed over the centuries to combat them. A pig and rooster tattoo has become a guardian to mariners everywhere. A pig is usually tattooed on the left foot, with a rooster on the right. Historically, pigs and roosters were packed onto wooden crates that did a surprisingly good job of protecting them when disaster struck. Legend has it that after a shipwreck, these crates managed to bob their way to land and cracked open to reveal farm animals that couldn’t swim wandering on the beach, while others onboard may not have been as lucky. One particular artist who transformed the world of tattooing has a local connection. Bert Grimm was born in 1900. He ran away from home at a young age and began working in carnivals, which was a hub for early tattoo artists. After making a living as a sideshow tattoo artist, Grimm eventually made his way to the West Coast and began tattooing with George Fosdick, an influential artist based in Portland. Over a more than 70-year career, Grimm tattooed in Portland, Seattle, St. Louis, San Diego, and Long Beach, California. He tattooed sailors about to be shipped out during World War II and the Korean War. In the postwar years, he maintained his position as one of the most renowned tattoo artists in the country. His tattoo shop at the Nu-Pike in the 1950s and ‘60s was considered one of the oldest operating shops in the continental U.S. His final shop was in Gearhart, and he worked well past his official retirement. He died in 1985 and is buried at Ocean View Cemetery.
Maritime tattoos are a popular form of artistic expression, like for these sailors aboard the USS New Jersey.
An example of Bert Grimm’s work in maritime tattoos.
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History & Heritage
FROZEN IN TIME
A Tillamook museum considers its role in preserving and displaying taxidermy
A
Words: Katie Frankowicz
• Images: Lydia Ely
taxidermy leopard leaps from a shelf, flanked by a row of deer and elk. Cases filled with puffins, ducks, geese, owls and birds line the room. Two types of musk ox loom in a back corner next to a polar bear. It’s a lot of glass eyes to encounter all at once. The Alex Walker Natural History Room at the Tillamook County Pioneer Museum is unexpected, even unique in coastal museum offerings. The room was created in the 1950s. It is beloved by the community and continues to fascinate and confound visitors. But as the museum looks to the future and how best to fulfill its mission of preserving and interpreting the region’s history and boosting people’s understanding of the North Coast environment on limited resources, museum leaders need to figure out how a room full of taxidermy fits in.
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The Alex Walker Natural History Room at the Tillamook County Pioneer Museum is unexpected, even unique in coastal museum offerings.
Clockwise from top left: A great horned owl, a coyote, a bird and cobra posed in battle and a red fox are on display at the Tillamook County Pioneer Museum.
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History & Heritage Peyton Tracy, assistant director and collections manager at the Tillamook County Pioneer Museum, pulls a cloth covering off of an informational display about the Alex Walker Natural History Room.
‘THE TAXIDERMY PLACE’
When people think of taxidermy, they might think about clubs where trophy elk and other animals are displayed. Or maybe they think of the big natural history museums: the Field Museum in Chicago or the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C. “I think this is an infinitely more accessible place for people,” said Peyton Tracy, assistant director and collections manager at the Tillamook museum. The museum has developed a reputation. It’s become “the taxidermy place,” the place where you send your grandfather’s trophy kills. But the museum has more taxidermy than it can display. There are around 750 animals in the natural history room alone and 1,000 pieces total in the museum. And this isn’t even counting all the skulls, shells and eggs on display. There are maybe 100 more animals in off-site storage. The museum cannot just decide to sell or give away items, said Jaykob Wood, the museum’s 108
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executive director. There is a formal, regulated process to put items back into the public’s hands. The natural history room is especially tricky because some of the animals are considered controlled items: rare, endangered, illegal to own. But caring for the natural history room is a huge endeavor, Tracy said. In the 1960s, ‘70s and ‘80s, the ability to see some of the exotic animals on display in the natural history room was unique and thrilling. Now people have more access to zoos and videos of all kinds of animals. There are other places that can tell the story of the polar bear, for instance. Does it need to happen in Tillamook, where no polar bear has lived? Tracy thinks not. “We can tell the story of Roosevelt elk,” she said, adding, “With the resources that we have available, I think it’s better to pursue our story because it’s a story that can’t be told in other places.”
In the 1960s, ‘70s and ‘80s, the ability to see some of the exotic animals on display in the natural history room was unique and thrilling. Now people have more access to zoos and videos of all kinds of animals.
From top: Jaykob Wood, executive director of the Tillamook County Pioneer Museum, stands in the doorway of the Alex Walker Natural History Room. Birds are reflected in the glass of a display case that holds a bobcat standing over a hare at the Tillamook County Pioneer Museum.
THE MAN BEHIND THE COLLECTION
Walker, the man who gives the natural history room its name, was a former director at the museum and an enthusiastic amateur ornithologist. He was born in a sod house in Nebraska in 1890. He served as the field ornithologist for the Cleveland Museum of Natural History and later was engaged to collect and prepare specimens for a natural history collection at the museum in Tillamook. He became curator of the museum in 1955, a position he held until his death in 1975. Walker had a hand in other collections in Oregon as well. Oregon State University maintains a bird research collection with more than 3,000 specimens associated with Walker, dated between the late 1800s and 1971, though Walker may not have gathered every specimen. Unlike the majority of the taxidermy in Tillamook, the birds at Oregon State are scientific study skins. They are not mounted or posed. Instead, they are prepared in such a way that the wings are flat, the heads tilted. They are designed to be stored efficiently in drawers and there are often dozens of each species. For now, Walker’s collection is used almost exclusively for teaching. But Peter Konstantinidis, an instructor and curator at the university, was hired in part to turn the Walker bird collection into a working research collection. Most of the birds in Walker’s collection at the university are native species, spanning many decades of collecting, making the collection an important one for local research, Konstantinidis said. For instance, the collection could tell a researcher when and where certain bird species were seen. This has the potential to reveal migration patterns — and show the shift of these patterns over time, perhaps telling a story about the impacts of climate change. Like the museum in Tillamook, Konstantinidis faces space issues and questions of relevance. What, he wonders, should he do about toucans that Walker included? Do tropical birds really belong in a collection that is predominantly of native Oregon birds?
HIGHLIGHTING LOCAL ANIMALS
In Tillamook, Tracy and Wood expect to retire some animals in the natural history room. They want to boost interpretation around the exhibits that highlight local animals. Walker prepared detailed dioramas of different local and regional ecosystems and staged taxidermy inside of them, a valuable teaching tool, Wood and Tracy say, and something they’d like to see stay with the museum. Tracy believes Walker would understand the dilemma they face in organizing the natural history room. Almost everything here belongs to someone who is gone, Tracy said of the museum. What people need from a museum or want to understand about a place evolves over time. The museum documents the history of Native American and European settlement, but history happens every day. At some point, Tracy said, the present will be the past.
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Coastal Life My Coast Astoria magic shop Coastal paintings Bathrooms — know where to go
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Coastal Life
MY COAST
Interviews & images: Lydia Ely
Dwayne Smallwood Owner, Bridge & Tunnel Bottleshop and Taproom • Astoria Q: What brought you to the coast? A: My grandmother lived out here, up in Ocean Park. Didn’t really know her growing up, so I had the opportunity, after I got out of the Army, to move out here and spend the last few years of her life with her and start a life out here. Q: What changes have you noticed in the 30-plus years you’ve lived here? A: It’s been really nice to see some of the empty storefronts being filled. Some of the buildings that have been sitting empty for quite a while have had some revitalization. Since I moved in, the J.C. Penney’s store next door has pretty much been basically empty and sitting for several years. So it’s nice to see some work starting in there and something going to be moving in soon. Q: What inspired you to start Bridge & Tunnel? A: Driving all over the Northwest to find the beers that I wanted to try. And just being this big beer geek that wanted to meet other people that had the same interests as I did. Eventually it was just like, I kept having to go further and further and further, and I can’t be the only one doing this. I’d walked out of several shops similar to this around. Astoria doesn’t have this, I think it’d be a good fit. I talked to my friends that worked in breweries, and they were like, “Yeah, it’d be a great fit, you should do that.” So they’ve been super supportive since the very beginning. Q: Do you have any hobbies outside of work? A: I do love to go and hike when I do get time out of here. I love going, oddly enough, traveling to other breweries, and to see my friends outside of my place of work as well.
Kelli Crocker Real estate agent at Pacific Realty; business owner of Nutz-R-Us; acrylic artist • Ocean Park, Washington Q: You said you moved here from Long Beach, Washington, 11 months ago. What brought you here? A: Getting out of town, out of the busier environment. Getting into a smaller community. And then I wanted to try selling real estate and it seemed like a perfect place to do it. Things are a lot different here. You know, there’s just a lot of different factors to consider here with wetlands and the ocean. Q: Do you have any hobbies? A: I think I’m at that point in my life I want to try everything that I haven’t tried. So I do acrylic pours on furniture. And I’m going to be starting the Ilwaco farmers market. ... Most people do canvas work. But I decided, well, if I do the canvas, too, but then I thought what if I start doing furniture to kind of do something different. So I pick up random things at thrift stores. Q: What do you like about living on the coast? A: The sense of community. Life. You know, it’s a double edged sword. Everyone knows your business, but everybody looks out for everybody. … And you get real familiar to people real quick, and it’s just so much more relaxing. And the wildlife probably. We have bears and deer and the bald eagles and yeah, it’s just a slower pace of life. Much better. Q: Do you see many bears out here? A: We have a den on our property. That’s so cool. So we catch them on our trail cam.
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Hear why the locals call our coast home. Shaya White Bookseller and barista at Godfather’s Books Astoria Q: How do you spend your free time? A: I forage. I’m a crazy mushroom person. I’m renting from a lady that lives right back up to the south side. So I spent a lot of time walking around, looking around the trees, digging the grass. I write a lot. I write poetry, I write short stories, and read. I’m always walking around town with my face in a book. I’m surprised I haven’t walked into a wall yet. Q: Have you published anything? A: No, it’s just for myself. Sometimes I’ll be reading something and I’ll really really feel it and I’ll love it and I’ll burn it. Q: Do you have a favorite book you sell at Godfather’s A: “White Oleander” by Janet Fitch is probably the most beautiful book I’ve ever read. It is a complete love story between a woman and herself as she tries to grow outside the shadow of her mentally ill mother. This is my favorite book in the world. I even wrote my favorite line from it on (a tag on the shelf): “Always learn poems by heart. They have to become the marrow in your bones. Like fluoride in the water.”
Mike Morgan Warrenton interim planning director; former Cannon Beach mayor • Cannon Beach Q: Have you noticed any changes in the 50 years you’ve lived on the coast? A: I used to be a planner here. So I’d say geographically, the boundaries of Cannon Beach have not really changed over the last 50 years. Because of the land use laws, there’s no way that we can expand eastward … but it’s become much more intense and much more expensive to live in Cannon Beach. Workers can’t live here. That’s really a tremendous problem. It used to be when I moved here, we could rent a house for 100 bucks a month. Now the cheapest house is $2,000, it’s $1,800 to $2,000 for a two-bedroom apartment. So that’s one thing. … The number of people that are coming to town to Cannon Beach because of its reputation is much more intense than it used to be. Summers, summers were always busy. But now, you know, any weekend like this, whether it’s in January, November, whenever, is filled. … People are streaming in from Portland. We’re only an hour and 15 minutes from Hillsboro. That’s another thing. Q: What do you love about living on the North Coast? A: I mean, look around you. It’s insane, it’s so beautiful. Even when it rains, you know? The rain’s gonna come tomorrow. Then it’ll clear up after that. I don’t mind the rains. I live in the forest.
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Coastal Life
“People have an innate love of magic. It’s that sense of wonder I remember as a kid.”
THE
Magic Shop & MORE Words: Peter Korchnak
• Images: Lydia Ely
The Magic Shop & More will soon celebrate its first anniversary on Commercial Street in downtown Astoria. The spacious store features magic inventory, gag gifts, books and party supplies. Yet the owner, Seth Howard, said “this is not real magic. The real magic is the responses you get from people, that sense of wonder and amazement — that’s the magic.”
The Magic Shop & More
1125 Commercial St., Astoria • 503-741-3047 • www.themagicshopandmore.com Open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day besides Tuesday
Seth Howard, magician and owner of The Magic Shop & More in Astoria, shares a card trick from behind the store counter.
H
oward has been doing magic since he was 12 in Deerfield, Kansas. A seventh grade teacher showed him a card trick and eventually taught him how to do it. Howard then learned tricks from books, watching David Copperfield, Penn and Teller and other specials — and lots of practice. When he moved to Oregon, he managed a magic store in Portland and soon began performing on the side while managing major second-hand retail stores in the metro area. In 2014, he continued his magic performing career on the North Coast, including at the last live Fort George Brewery Festival of Dark Arts, in 2019, where his escape from a straitjacket drew raucous applause from stout lovers. For Howard, opening a magic shop in Astoria last May was, as he puts it, “the next event.” Delayed as it was by the pandemic, he added, “it’s been wonderful ever since.” Howard’s store is one of the few remaining magic shops in Oregon. He credits his retail experience to his business acumen. “It’s a labor of love but it’s the easiest job in the world,” he said. Howard continues to perform a range of repertoires at restaurants, bars, weddings, parties, corporate events, the Astoria Sunday Market — and at the shop where he’ll do tricks for customers at the counter, opposite a large television set looping famous magic shows performed by his magician idols. He tailors the lineup of tricks to the occasion, audience and venue. Regardless of where, when and why, Howard said, “people have an innate love of magic. It’s that sense of wonder I remember as a kid.”
“The real magic is the responses you get from people, that sense of wonder and amazement — that’s the magic.”
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Coastal Life
Magic trick props for sale hang on a display wall in The Magic Shop & More in Astoria.
In addition to performing and selling supplies, Howard wants people to get involved in the world of magic. In January he launched magic courses for kids. Classes take place at the shop and are limited to six students to ensure more one-on-one time. Older kids, 12 and over, get to learn more complicated tricks, including with cards; younger kids, who have less dexterity, learn tricks they can do with everyday household objects like rubber bands or a newspaper. The best advice Howard has for kids is to avoid learning magic tricks
from videos. Having learned his craft from books, he says that’s where the best magic tricks are. Some of the bestselling and most helpful magic books are available at the shop. The “& More” part of the store is in the back room, which serves as a showcase for party supplies like balloons and party favors. More than anything, Howard aims to entertain. “My goal is, I want you to laugh and just have a good time,” he said. “You know, we’re all in this together.”
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Coastal Life
Art of Our Coast
King Tide ‘King Tide,’ writes artist Bette Lu Krause, is ‘an impression of Baby Island, the small island just south of Long Island in Willapa Bay.’
Artist: Bette Lu Krause, Ocean Park, Washington
Find more of Krause’s work at: www.bettelukrause.com
Columbia Pilot Boat by Paul Polson Big Red by Roger McKay
Soliloquy by Luana Stauffer
Sunset on the Long Beach Peninsula by Betsy Pfannenstiel
1913 Wreck of the Glenesslin by Shawn Taylor
ASTORIA
Coastal Life
WARRENTON
WWI DOUGHBOY ASTORIA MONUMENT
WARRENTON
WWI DOUGHBOY MONUMENT
PETER IREDALE PETER IREDALE
SEASIDE SEASIDE
SEASIDE TURNAROUND SEASIDE TURNAROUND
CANNON BEACH H AY S T A C K ROCK
CANNON BEACH
H AY S T A C K ROCK
M A N Z A N I TA VISITORS CENTER M A N Z A N I TA VISITORS CENTER
NEHALEM NEHALEM R O C K A W AY W AY S I D E R O C K A W AY
GARIBAW L AY D IS I D E
The most unique
G A RPGIOABRR ITABOALLFD I DI
RESTROOMS
on the North Oregon Coast
PORT OF GTAIRNIG BALDI FLOA RESTROOM F L O AT I N G
T I L L A M ORO E SK TROOM
Always searching for the perfect spot for a restroom break? Look no further: here are the top 11 coolest spots to go when you’re on the go on the North Coast. Scan the QR code for a map of over 100 more options, from Astoria and Neskowin.
TILLAMOOK
TILLAMOOK REST AREA TILLAMOOK REST AREA
SITKA SEDGE SITKA SEDGE VIEW
PACIFIC CIT Y NESKOWIN
PACIFIC CIT Y
ART VIEW HISTORY ART B EH A ICSHT O R Y
NESKOWIN NESKOWIN NESKOWIN
T RB A EI LASC H B O AT A C C E S S O N LY
TRAILS
B O AT A C C E S S O N LY
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Map courtesy North Coast Tourism Management Network
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Store hours: Mon-Fri, 8-6; Sat. 8-4
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Coastal Life
Big surf
Large waves roll toward the beach at Fort Stevens State Park. — Lydia Ely photo
Coastal Life
King tides
Waves hit the shore near the Columbia River South Jetty Observation Tower during the king tides. — Lydia Ely photo
FORT COLUMBIA STATE PARK
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Gearhart Lane
Coastal Life COASTAL LIFE
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Summit Avenue
N. Cottage Avenue
GEARHART GOLF LINKS
101
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Cannon Beach 128 128 Our Our Coast CoastCLATSOP Magazine Magazine 2022 2020 STATE FOREST
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HAYSTACK HILL STATE PARK
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NEHALEM BAY STATE PARK
S. Pacific Street
S. Hemlock Street
1,000 feet
Rivers 101
Parks and forests Cities, townships
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53
Roy Creek Park
City, rural routes Trails, walks
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ARCADIA BEACH STATE RECREATION SITE
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CANNON BEACH & NORTH TILLAMOOK COUNTY
Ri ve r
101
TILLAMOOK CO. DiscoverOurCoast.com
129
Business Directory Antiques
Fish and Seafood
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Travel and Tourism
130
Restaurants
Our Coast Magazine 2022
SEASIDE
CANNON BEACH ASTORIA
Is celebrating 50 years of business, since 1971. Owners Larry & Shirley Perkins, Ron & Kim Williams.
We are a locally owned distributor of Anheuser-Busch products and many wine varieties. Clatsop Distributing Company is a supporter of local youth sports, Clatsop Comm. College, Clatsop Co. Fair, Tillamook Co. Fair, Clatsop Co. Food Bank, and many local events.
1375 SE 12th Place, Warrenton, OR 97146 503-861-4275
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Skywater Boat Tours IlwacoTours.com
Shopping
Don Nisbett Art Gallery Luisa Mack Jewelry & Art Marie Powell Art Gallery Purly Shell Fiber Arts Skywater Gallery Time Enough Books
Dining
Salt Pub Waterline Pub Ilwaco Bakery
Lodging Salt Hotel At the Helm
Other Local Businesses RiversZen Yoga Freedom Market
FRESH PRODUCE • ARTISANS • LOCAL MAKERS • FOOD • JEWELRY MAY - SEPTEMBER • 10 - 4PM • www.ilwacosaturdaymarket.com