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PUBLISHER
Kari Borgen
EDITOR
Lissa Brewer
PHOTOGRAPHER
Shanna Madison
DESIGN DIRECTOR/LAYOUT
John D. Bruijn
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
Peter Korchnak
Rebecca Lexa
Riley Yuan
Jasmine Lewin
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Sarah Silver
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Heather Jenson
Hattie Marvin
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On the cover
The Goyal family visits Youngs River Falls near Astoria in Clatsop County, a notable local swimming spot and tourist destination. This 54-foot tall cascade captivates with its serene beauty and secluded charm.
The North Coast holds a collection of enchanting waterfalls, accompanied by stunning hikes and views of the lush greenery. Learn more about where to explore Oregon’s natural water wonders in “Falling water,” a collection of images by Shanna Madison, on page 16.
An abundance of options for exploring
Look straight ahead and you might miss Munson Creek Falls.
Along the Oregon Coast Highway south of Tillamook, over the Trask River and beyond the block letters “air museum” on the rooftop of a blimp hangar turned roadside attraction, is a small sign that points east down a narrow road leading to the 319-foot waterfall, said to be the tallest in the Coast Range Mountains.
Or Haystack Hill State Park, an often-missed network of public trails that cut through ferns and salal bushes under a forested canopy overlooking Cannon Beach’s iconic 235-foot sea stack.
Both are relatively short hikes, as are many of the other places mentioned in this edition. (There are longer options, too. Sections of the Oregon Coast Trail around Tillamook Head, for example, or the Fort to Sea Trail.) Both are also relatively unknown, even to people who live here.
What is well-known is that the coast and mountains near the Columbia River are home to an abundance of options for exploring the outdoors, from trails modeled after the 19th-century explorations of Lewis and Clark to activities like kayaking, fishing, mountain biking, golfing, kite flying and zip lining.
There is also plenty of camping. State parks at Cape Disappointment and Fort Stevens offer rows of campsites within walking distance from the ocean. Nearby are vintage airstream trailers, RV parks, cabins and yurts.
And there is the newer addition of Snow Peak Campfield Long Beach, a 25-acre campground with a communal ethos imagined by a Japanese outdoor brand.
If you look, there is always somewhere new to explore.
River paddling
Explore Lewis and Clark National Historical Park by kayak or canoe
Words: Peter Korchnak • Images: Lewis and Clark National Historical Park
During the summer months at Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, visitors have the chance to gain a river perspective on wildlife and history with park ranger-led paddling tours.
Offered on Fridays and Saturdays through Aug. 31 — at times determined by the tides — the tours take off from the banks of the Lewis and Clark River and can last up to three hours.
“We take our time, going to different points along the Lewis and Clark or the Netul River, talking about the history and restoration of the area, and the watershed,” said Esther Steiner, a park ranger and paddle tour leader.
Rangers may alternate leading the tours, and the interpretive focus of each watercraft trip varies accordingly — from nature to culture. Along the way, there is plenty of wildlife to see, from river otters to Roosevelt elk. »
Paddle tours take off from the banks of the Lewis and Clark River. The interpretive focus of each watercraft trip varies from nature to culture. Along the way, there is plenty of wildlife to see, from river otters to Roosevelt elk. There is also discussion of the history of the river, from the pre-Lewis and Clark expedition era to the present.
Exploring the Lewis and Clark River Paddlers navigate to different points along the Lewis and Clark or the Netul River, talking about the history and restoration of the area, and the watershed.
Over the years, there has been overwhelmingly positive feedback, especially about the education and storytelling aspects of the tour. Many guests point to the tour as a highlight of their trip to the area.
As a tour lead, Steiner’s focus is on recounting the history of the river, from the pre-Lewis and Clark expedition era to the present.
“We do talk a lot about the Indigenous tribes in the area, this is a homeland of the Clatsop people,” Steiner said. “I tell stories from the expedition and I also tell what happened after they left. We float past pilings in the river, so I talk about the wet sort yards, the log booms and the loggers, and how this area was built up and settled.”
Steiner has been part of the tours since they started in 2009, first as extra help and now as the kayak and reservations lead.
Over the years, she’s heard overwhelmingly positive feedback, especially about the education and storytelling aspects of the tour. Many guests, Steiner said, point to the tour as a highlight of their trip to the area. Repeat guests often bring friends along.
For those who have their own kayak, canoe or other non-motorized boat to launch into the river, Netul Landing offers a convenient summertime access point.
Guests should be prepared for “a moderately challenging paddle,” Steiner said. She also advised packing water and snacks and wearing sunscreen.
Guided kayak tours are free with advance park admission, which is $10 with a standard entrance pass, or included with a National Park pass.
Reservations, available up to 30 days in advance, are required via the park’s website or by phone at 877-444-6777. Each tour is timed to match the river’s high tide and can accommodate about a dozen guests. Tandem kayaks, paddles and life jackets are included.
Watercraft rentals and tours
The rivers, bays and lakes of the Columbia-Pacific region offer something for every skill level of kayaker, canoer or stand-up paddler, from the calm surface of Coffenbury Lake — inquire about seasonal rangerguided tours — to the old-growth cedar groves of Long Island in Willapa Bay.
At Astoria Scuba & Adventure Sports on Pier 39, rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard, complete with life jacket and permit. In Seaside and Cannon Beach, find kayak and flotation device rentals at Cleanline Surf Co. and Wheel Fun Rentals, which also supplies Seaside’s emblematic swan boats.
Columbia River Kayaking, based in Skamokawa, Washington, offers group tours and skill-building classes. Upcoming programs include a Greenland paddle carving class, led by Don Beale and Joanne Barta, on Aug. 17, and full-day tours of Three Tree Point, with views of abandoned canning towns along the Columbia River, on Sept. 19 and Oct. 3.
Other rental outlets include Willapa Paddle Adventures in Raymond, Washington, Kaady Kayaks in Astoria and the Wheeler Marina in Wheeler.
On the trail
How to prepare for summer hiking
Words: Rebecca Lexa • Images: Shanna Madison
With summer days in full swing, people are heading out to enjoy trails and parks, from mountain hikes to sandy beaches.
Hikers venturing out along the coast should remember that terrain can be variable. Some forested routes in the lower Columbia region are quite rugged, with uneven footing and challenging hills. Not all trails have convenient resting points, either. Some have benches at intervals ranging from every few hundred yards to less than one per mile. Those who need frequent rest breaks may want to plan ahead.
The region is also well-known for weather that can change at short notice. Even a difference of a few degrees can turn a nice hike into a miserable one, and it doesn’t take three-digit temperatures to lead to heat-related illnesses.
Astoria Riverwalk
The flat 6.4-mile trail along Astoria’s riverfront is a favorite for locals to walk, run, hike and bike. Take in views of the river and passing ships under the Astoria Bridge, through downtown and past the remains of old canneries.
Hikers venturing out along the coast should remember that terrain can be variable. Some forested routes in the lower Columbia region are quite rugged, with uneven footing and challenging hills.
Heavy rains may also flood some trails entirely, like those at Leadbetter Point State Park at the north end of the Long Beach Peninsula.
For the most part, wildlife is pretty benign. Larger animals like elk, bears, deer and coyotes deserve a respectful distance, as they can be unpredictable, particularly if they feel threatened.
Ground-nesting yellowjackets can also be an occasional hazard in the spring and summer, so watch the trail ahead for small swarms flying in and out of underground nests. Wetlands are especially prone to clouds of mosquitoes, especially between May and August. »
Oswald West State Park
Follow a forest of old-growth Sitka spruce along the contours of Short Sand Creek to lead to a pocket beach popular with surfers, or continue onto the Cape Falcon Trail for a 5-mile round trip with sweeping ocean views.
So what’s a hiker to do? Well, don’t get too worried about the risks — just prepare ahead of time.
People who are already in good physical condition probably won’t need to do too much preparation, though some extra stairsteps may come in handy before hitting the steep slopes of Saddle Mountain or the rugged up-and-down of the Cape Disappointment Lighthouse Trail. It’s not necessary to have extensive equipment, but there are a few essentials, starting with footwear.
Sneakers will suffice for gentler trails on pavement, gravel or well-trimmed grass, but hiking boots are better all around. High-top boots give additional support to ankles, which may prevent injury on uneven terrain. Make sure any footwear has good tread for better traction.
Bug spray is a must during mosquito season. Repellents aren’t always effective either, so wear light-colored clothing with long sleeves and a hood that can be pulled up.
Take plenty of water, and remember it’s better to have too much than not enough.
A 16-ounce bottle per person per hour should suffice for an easy hike in mild temperatures, but double that at least if temperatures are higher or the hike will be more strenuous. A backpack with some water bottles works just as well as a specialized product like a hydration pack.
Water is among a short list of essentials for hiking and camping. This list also includes navigation tools, a headlamp, sun protection, a first aid kit, a knife, fire-starting tools, a light shelter like an emergency blanket, food and extra clothing.
While this may seem like overkill for a simple beach walk, my rule is “better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it.”
Finally, err on the side of an easier trail to start with. Level, paved trails like the Astoria Riverwalk and Warrenton Waterfront Trail are a great starting point, as is the Discovery Trail on the Long Beach Peninsula. Each of these trails can also be broken up into shorter distances.
All are close to towns and are not especially strenuous. If it’s time to add a little bit of hill, try the trails at the South Bay Unit of Willapa National Wildlife Refuge, or ramble around the old barracks at Fort Stevens State Park.
Short, rugged trails to build balance and stamina include the Coastal Forest Loop Trail at Cape Disappointment and the Willapa Art Trail and Cutthroat Climb at the former Willapa National Wildlife Refuge headquarters on U.S. Highway 101.
Save longer, more challenging trails like Lewis and Clark National Historical Park’s Fort to Sea Trail for later, and consider them goals to work toward.
Saddle Mountain
Recently reopened to hikers after years of closure, this 2.5-mile trail climbs to the top of Clatsop County’s tallest peak, just over 3,200 feet, for panoramic views of the Oregon Coast Range. Along the way, look for rare wildflowers like the early blue violet, a favorite of the Oregon silverspot butterfly.
Ecola State Park
Follow in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark on the 2.8-mile Clatsop Loop Trail, a short and scenic hike that starts at the parking lot of Indian Beach. For a longer hike, wander further onto the headland along the Tillamook Head Trail.
Falling water
A
photo essay by Shanna Madison
The thundering rush over a rocky cliff edge, drawing closer as the trail bends around to reveal a waterfall. Mist forms a rainbow over boulders in the creek. Sunlight finds its way through trees onto ferns and salmonberries.
Falling water captures the imagination.
Up and down the Oregon Coast, waterfalls can be found steps from main highways, on short trails and even tumbling onto the beach steps from the Pacific Ocean.
Youngs River Falls
Surrounded by forest some 10 miles outside of Astoria, this waterfall is a popular swimming spot during the summer months.
Bridge Creek Falls
Located a few miles east of Tillamook, this 35-foot waterfall over three tiers is accessible from a short path off State Highway 6.
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Fishhawk Falls
More waterfalls to explore
Hug Point Falls
Seasonally on the beach at Hug Point State Recreation Area.
Blumenthal Falls
Near Short Sand Beach at Oswald West State Park.
Barth Falls
Along the North Fork Klaskanine River near Jewell.
Gnat Creek Falls
On Gnat Creek near Wauna.
Beaver Falls
A wonderfull falls near Clatskanie.
The most private and luxurious way to stay at Campfield Long Beach is to book one of the jyubako, which translates to “living box.”
A camping experience Japanese outfitter brings Campfield concept to Long Beach
Words & Images: Riley Yuan
Driving along Sandridge Road, on the southern end of the Long Beach Peninsula, you might notice a building unlike any of the houses surrounding it. It’s sleek and modern — all sharp corners and clean lines — but in an understated sort of way.
The construction is wood and glass and concrete. The color scheme is black and amber, against which the signage, in a white, serif font, really pops: snow peak/CAMPFIELD/Long Beach. Beside the text, an asterisklike logo calls to mind a minimalistic snowflake.
If you pull over out of curiosity and inquire at the front desk, you might learn that the building’s siding wasn’t painted black. Rather, it was burnt in a centuries-old Japanese process of hardening and preserving wood known as “yakisugi.” “Yaki” — charred. “Sugi” — cypress. You might learn that Snow Peak itself is a decades-old Japanese outdoors brand and maker of high-end camping gear, and that the company first entered the U.S. market in Portland, where it still has a flagship store.
You will certainly be invited to explore the rest of the 25-acre property, which used to be a rundown RV park. Four years and $20 million-worth of construction and wetland restoration later, it has become a campground unlike any other in the country — a manifestation, like several other Campfield locations in Japan, of Snow Peak’s vision for a more open and communal way of spending time outside.
The camp store combines a cafe, taproom, mini-market and outdoors store into a single space where guests and the general public alike can gather and relax. The ofuro spa, modeled after a traditional, Japanese bathhouse, is similarly available to both overnight guests and day-pass holding visitors. Its heated, deepwalled tub is covered but open to the elements, so that while you soak, you can still hear wind, rain and wildlife — still see rows of alders lining the creek that flows through the middle of the grounds.
The most private and luxurious way to stay at Campfield Long Beach is to book one of the jyubako, which translates literally to “living box.” »
Snow Peak Campfield
Camp store open Monday through Friday from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., Saturday and Sunday from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., Ofuro spa open Monday through Friday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Offerings include a camp store and cafe for sundries, Japanese groceries and beverages, coffee, beer and outdoor gear; Ofuro spa with a soaking pool, sauna, and cold plunge; and wash house with private showers, restrooms and a sink station.
Field sites
Bring your own tent. Medium sites start at $85 per night and fit up to 6 people. Large sites start at $95 a night and fit up to 8 people. A pack-and-go fire pit and table-and-chair set is provided. Campfire kits, kitchen kits, and tent/tarp kits can be rented for any field site.
Tent suites
For $120 per night, Snow Peak provides a fourperson shelter, camp kitchen, dining table and chairs, and campfire setup. Guests bring their own bedding or sleeping bags. Tent suites are designed for two guests to sleep on cots, and can accommodate up to four guests with sleeping pads.
Jyubako
Minimal, climate-controlled micro-cabins start at $130 per night and feature a queen bed, kitchenette, mini-fridge, living area, and shower. Jyubako are designed for two adults and can accommodate up to two children with additional sleeping mats available for rent.
All lodging options are pet-friendly; ADA-accessible options are available
Reservations at www.snowpeakcampfield.com
These minimalistic, tiny cabins, which come outfitted with a kitchenette, queen-size bed, living area and shower, are Snow Peak’s way of bringing the comforts of home outdoors and demonstrating that its wares are as elegant as they are functional.
But the tent sites are perhaps even more emblematic of the company’s ethos, which holds that the outdoors are a place of communion — not just with nature, but with each other. At Campfield Long Beach, Snow Peak wants you to visit with your neighbors and not just your closest friends or family. To embrace the idea that nature is most restorative when you don’t just escape to it independently, but rather exist within it communally.
There are two kinds of tent sites available — field sites where you can pitch your own tent, or tent suites that come outfitted with a Snow Peak sleeping shelter and a full camp kitchen. And everything about the design of both is intended to encourage freeflowing interaction.
For one, they are placed much closer together than in typical campgrounds, with little to delineate the boundaries between them. Additionally, there are no spaces for cars. You park in the lot out front, and then cart all your supplies into the campground.
And to get anywhere, you have to walk directly past neighboring tent sites, which Snow Peak hopes encourages you to stop and chat. Or even better: to pull up a chair for “takibi” — bonfire — time. Each site has a complimentary fire pit and tableand-chair set for this very purpose, and additional “takibi” kits can be rented for an enhanced campfire cooking experience.
If all this sounds different from your typical camping experience, that’s because it is.
There are grittier, cheaper and less curated ways of getting outside, if that’s what you’re looking for. But Campfield Long Beach is its own thing. It’s refined, but still subtle. Organized, but still organic. It’s distinctly Japanese, but doesn’t clash with its Pacific Northwest environs either.
Since it opened in mid-June, guests from all over the United States and Canada have visited, drawn by the brand’s values and heritage.
All of which is to say: if you visit, chances are you’ll meet somebody new, from somewhere far away. You’ll spend time with them outside and in close quarters, around the fire and beneath the stars. You’ll get to know them the Snow Peak way.
PLAN YOUR NEXT OUTDOOR ADVENTURE!
RIDE THE BUS AND EXPLORE OUR PARKS!
Clatsop County is filled with parks that are just waiting to be explored and the best news is that most of them are accessible or within walking/biking distance of our SETD bus routes. Did you know that there are more than 30 parks within the City of Astoria?
Ride the SETD Weekday Route #10 to most of them. The Weekday Route # 15 will take you to the 5 Warrenton and Hammond City Parks
and the Fort Stevens State Park. Ride the Weekday Route #101 and Route #20 or the Weekend Pacific Connector Route to access and explore the Sunset Beach, Gearhart, Seaside, and Cannon Beach City Parks as well as other County parks in South County. Beauty and adventure await! Visit the following websites for more information and directions to our local parks.
https://www.astoriaparks.com/dept/Parks_Recreation https://www.ci.cannon-beach.or.us/ https://www.cityofgearhart.com/ www.cityofseaside.us/community/pages/city-parks https://www.warrentonoregon.us/parksites
For route schedules and information visit the SETD website at nwconnector.org or call 503-861-7433 #1 for assistance. One way fare on any SETD bus is ONLY $1.00
Haystack Hill
Cannon Beach to acquire state park and surrounding land
Words: Jasmine Lewin • Images: Shanna Madison
Cannon Beach is moving forward with an acquisition of over 13 acres of forest in an effort to preserve Haystack Hill State Park and surrounding land as a natural area.
The park, south of downtown Cannon Beach, was initially donated to the state in 1969 by John Yeon, a Portland architect and preservationist who hoped to protect the hillside and its abundance of vegetation for ecological conservation.
Now, the 9 acres that make up the park are being transferred to the city for maintenance and ownership, subject to Yeon’s deed restrictions requiring minimal development and the protection of native plants.
Matt Rippee, the deputy of field services for Oregon State Parks, said the combination of deed restrictions and maintenance requirements led the state to look to the city for stewardship.
“It’s a property that probably has tighter deed restrictions than a lot of Oregon State Parks,” he said. “And because of that, we as an agency felt like this might be a better parcel for the city of Cannon Beach to manage and own if they were interested, just because, again, there’s not much we can do there.
“And because the North Coast is so busy, and the capacity of staff it takes to maintain this property, they just don’t really have that kind of time, with Ecola and Oswald West and all those other properties around there.”
The land, a largely undeveloped forest of towering spruce and hemlock trees amid a dense undergrowth of ferns and other native plants, is bisected by a rugged hiking trail leading to two summit areas offering views of Haystack Rock and nearby peaks.
Local landscaper Beth Holland, of the Holland Family Trust, intends to help the city fulfill Yeon’s conservation ideal by transferring ownership of a 4-acre parcel of forested land bordering Haystack Hill State Park directly to the north. »
The land, a largely undeveloped forest of towering spruce and hemlock trees amid a dense undergrowth of ferns and other native plants, is bisected by a rugged hiking trail leading to two summit areas offering views of Haystack Rock and nearby peaks.
The parcel has been in her family for over 50 years.
“When he (Yeon) bought the 9 acres, he believed, I think at the time, that he would also be acquiring the land that my father bought,” she said. “It’s such a beautiful place … the hill overlooks Haystack Rock, and we see all the way from Ecola Park to the south end of Cannon Beach.
“It has real significance, both in what you can see from it and how you see it from the beach. And actually, John Yeon was really concerned about how, 50 years ago, we had just been clearcut. So he was looking to the future and wanting to see trees protected.”
City ownership of the Holland parcel would allow the Cannon Beach Trail to connect to the stairs leading down to Haystack Rock. The new addition would also create a tsunami evacuation route for people visiting the beach in front of the rock.
The City Council passed a resolution at a meeting accepting the potential ownership of the Holland parcel, contingent on sufficient funds being raised for the purchase.
“This seems like the last step in this long process of trying to find a way to preserve it into the future … And by uniting it with
the state park, that is a 13-acre plus park,” Holland said. “It has a lot more strength going forward.”
The acquisition will also make the city eligible for local government grant programs through Oregon State Parks to help with trail development and other maintenance projects.
& Merlin