ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 January 22–28, 2016 Warm Your Soul With
Hearty Stews on
D8
A single strand of spaghetti starts with the best out of hundreds of grain varieties
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By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff asta and terroir are not words you’d usually associate with each other. In the industrial production of pasta, the goal is standardization and uniformity, achieved by blending grains of different origins and qualities to create a product that looks the same way, cooks the same way, and tastes the same way, year after year. But one pasta company decided to go the opposite way. “Our idea was very close to the idea of winemakers—that if you take the vine and plant it in different areas of the world, you would have totally different results,” said Riccardo Felicetti, CEO of Pastificio Felicetti. Its pasta has won praise from chefs such as Massimo Bottura, who recommended it as one of the dried pastas of excellent quality from Italy. In New York, Francine Segan, a food historian who judges products for the Specialty Food Association awards, said the pastas exuded aromas as soon as they were put into boiling water. “Each of the pastas has a nuanced unique aroma, texture, and flavor. There are notes of sweet dried fruit, hints of roasted hazelnuts, and warm freshly baked bread with butter. The kamut pasta even has a lovely floral aroma found in so many fine wines.” she said.
See Dreams on D7
Cooking pasta? The pros offer tips on
D2
How do you stand out against the competition? Riccardo Felicetti’s pasta company has taken years to find the perfect grains to make single-origin pastas.
D2
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January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Secrets of Cooking
Pasta Orechiette with broccoli rabe, extra-virgin olive oil, chili flakes, and Pecorino Romano at Eataly.
By Channaly Philipp| Epoch Times Staff
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hen it comes to cooking pasta, there’s plenty of knowledge that gets passed down at grandmothers’ knees. Italians, for example, absorb those little details at a tender young age—details that recipes often gloss over. We asked Riccardo Felicetti, CEO of Italian pasta company Felicetti, and Fitz Tallon, the executive chef of Eataly in Manhattan, for their tips on making amazing pasta. Here’s what we learned. Pasta Suffers From Loneliness “The biggest mistake you can make with pasta is [to] put the pasta into the water and go,” Felicetti said. “La pasta sofre de la solitudine.” Or in English, “Pasta suffers from loneliness.” “You have to take care of it when it cooks. Pasta needs attention,” he said.
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Use Plenty of Water Here’s a simple formula for cooking pasta: 10-100-1,000. It makes more sense if you have a scale, but basically, use 10 grams of salt for 100 grams of pasta for 1,000 mL (or 1 liter) of water. Think of pasta as fish swimming in the ocean—the water should be just as salty (yes, that means give it a taste) and just as plentiful. Add the salt when the water comes to a boil, add the pasta, and bring the water to a boil again. “You have to keep the pasta boiling,” said Felicetti. Give it a nice stir now and then to keep the pasta moving. Forget the Directions Forget the directions on the package and rely on your tastebuds. There are too many factors involved, including how much water you’re cooking it in, said Tallon. As to what al dente means, it depends on you. “We [Italians] know exactly what al dente is but each of us has a different perception of al dente,” Felicetti said. “My al dente and one of my colleague’s al dente is totally different. … It’s more ‘al chiodo,’ which means ‘to the nail’ ... not only to the tooth but to the nail.” And don’t add oil to the water. In the past, Felicetti said, it was done so the pieces of pasta would not stick together, but the quality of production today is such that this step is not needed. Go Easy on the Portions Pasta is oft reviled as a waist buster, but the reality is more about the quantity consumed. What Felicetti finds at restaurants in the United States are single portions of pasta that are easily two or three times the amount that would be served in Italy. Eataly’s Tallon said 3 to 4 ounces of dry pasta is an appropriate serving. “To me 3 ounces of pasta is a lot of food. When you eat slowly, it’s going to fill you up. A lot of times, people eat really fast. They don’t realize they’re already full.” “It’s not just Italian,” Tallon said. “If you get a huge sandwich on a huge piece of bread, you’re eating unhealthily not because you’re eating carbs, but because it’s ridiculous how much you consume.” Use Quality Ingredients What is paramount, Tallon said, is the quality of the ingredients—and the flavors you
The biggest mistake you can make with pasta is [to] put the pasta into the water and go. Riccardo Felicetti, CEO, Felicetti
“When I toss this, it’s going to tighten it up.”
can coax out of them. “If you’re using really good, really fresh things, you don’t need a lot of it. It’s not just the pasta, it’s how much fat you put in there, how much butter, how much olive oil. You don’t need to use so much of it. “If you’re using a fake Parmiggiano—like that grated stuff in the shaker, I don’t know what that is—it’s not very flavorful and consequently you have to use a lot of it.” Instead, spend more on Parmiggiano-Reggiano cheese—you’ll actually end up using less of it. “A little bit goes a long way,” he added. Also be mindful while you are adding ingredients. If you’re using butter, don’t cook everything in it. Instead, toss the pasta in a small amount of butter at the end. “You’re not even cooking it, it’s just to bring those flavors together. Same deal with cheese. You don’t want to add cheese like parmesan or pecorino until the pasta is off the heat, or [else] it gets stringy and oily,” Tallon said. Bringing It All Together When the pasta is done, well, it’s not done. “If you take the pasta out of [the pot], when it’s completely done cooking, toss it [with sauce], and put in a bowl, it’s not a dish,” said Tallon. “It’s two different things—pasta and sauce. You want homogenous flavor. The way to do that is to cook everything together at the end.” Don’t forget the water that the pasta was cooked in. That’s gold right there—full of starches that will bind flavors together. While the pasta cooks, Tallon cooks the ingredients to go with it—local clams and red onion in one pan; broccoli rabe, garlic, and chili in another. He takes a ladle of the pasta water now and then and adds it to the pans with these ingredients. “I’m not going to do it but I could throw away everything in this pan except for this water [in the sauté pans] and it’d be delicious. It’s going to taste like broccoli rabe, it’s going to taste like garlic, it’s going to taste like chili oil, it’s going to taste like olive oil,” Tallon said. “It’s another reason to not cook huge amounts of pasta because virtually no one at home has a big enough pot to cook pastas and whatever
Fitz Tallon, executive chef at Eataly in Manhattan.
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January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
RECIPE SPAGHETTI ALLE VONGOLE (SPAGHETTI WITH WHITE CLAM SAUCE) Serves: 6 • • • • • • • • •
1 pound spaghetti 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 pound cockle clams or 24 littleneck clams, scrubbed 1/2 teaspoon pepperoncino flakes 1 cup dry white wine 1/2 cup fresh Italian parsley, chopped 1 pint grape or cherry tomatoes, halved or quartered 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil Salt, to taste
DIRECTIONS Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. In a large sauté pan, heat the extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat. Add the sliced garlic and cook until it is golden, about 30 seconds.
For a finishing touch, Riccardo Felicetti grates cheese over the pasta.
Add the clams and the pepperoncino to the skillet and cook them for 2 minutes. Add the white wine, cover the skillet, bring it to a boil, and cook until the clams open, about 4 to 5 minutes. Lower the heat, remove any unopened clams and discard them. Add 1/4 cup of the parsley to the sauté pan. Add the spaghetti to the pot of boiling water and cook, stirring the pasta. When the spaghetti is al dente, add it directly to the sauce, reserving the pasta water. Continue to cook and toss everything together until the pasta is coated with the sauce. Add the reserved pasta water by the ladle to thin the sauce, if necessary. Fold in the remaining ¼ cup of chopped parsley with the tomatoes and serve. Recipe courtesy of Eataly
RECIPE PASTA ‘SNAILS’ WITH SAUSAGE Serves: 4 This simple-to-make dish is a classic of the Perugina section of Umbria in Italy. I like using Monograno Felicetti farro pasta with it because Felicetti selected one particular strain of farro from over 200 varieties, test planted it throughout Italy, then opted to grow it in Umbria, which has been prized for its farro since ancient Roman times.
Thanks to the reserved pasta water, the linguine absorbs the flavor of the clams beautifully. else you’re putting in there,” he added. Finally, a minute or so before it’s al dente, the pasta gets drained and added to the sauce, to cook another minute with a bit more pasta water. Tallon gives it all a good toss in the pan. “When I toss this, it’s going to tighten it up.” You can also give a good vigorous stir, which serves the same purpose. The Italians call it “mantecare,” literally mixing up, which serves the purpose of amalgamating the flavors together. In practice it’s like cooking magic. It made his orechiette pasta taste not like wheat but rather of all the other ingredients he’s put in—the broccoli rabe, the garlic—while the strands of linguine tasted just like clams.
Pasta “snails” with sausage, a specialty of Umbria, Italy.
This is called “mantecare” or mixing up.
Final Touch And finally, “Always finish with olive oil. At the end you’re going to get all the flavors. It’s going to make it shine, it’s going to make it tasty,” Tallon said.
THE HIGHEST STANDARDS OF QUALITY, AND DISCIPLINE TO TRADITION TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
• 1/2 pound Monograno Felicetti chiocciole (snail-shaped) pasta • Salt • 1/2 small onion, minced • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1 tablespoon butter • 1 sweet sausage • 1/3 cup white wine • Black pepper • Pecorino cheese, grated
DIRECTIONS Cook the pasta in salted boiling water according to package directions. Meanwhile, sauté the onion in the olive oil and butter in a frying pan over medium high heat. Remove the meat from the sausage casings, add to the pan, and cook until lightly browned, breaking up the meat with a wooden spoon as it cooks. Add the wine, raise the heat, and stir to combine. Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking liquid. Toss the pasta into the sausage mixture and toss to combine, adding a little cooking liquid if dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a little pecorino cheese. Serve topped with additional pecorino cheese.
A final tossing of pasta in the pan serves to bind all the flavors together.
Recipe courtesy of Francine Segan
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January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF HAKKASAN
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces.
HAKKASAN CHINESE NEW YEAR MENU The Golden Halo, with soy caramel, banana delice, chocolate, and peanuts.
The Cantonese fine-dining restaurant is serving a special prix fixe menu for Chinese New Year. The dinner starts with Double-Boiled Fresh Ginseng and Chicken Soup and appetizers like the Steamed Dim Sum Platter. Main entrees include Pipa Duck, Wok-Fry Lobster in Spicy Truffle Sauce, and Roasted Chilean Seabass with Chinese Honey. To celebrate the Year of the Monkey, a special cocktail called the 9 Hou (Chinese for monkey; the monkey is the ninth animal in the zodiac) will be served, with El Dorado rum, sherry, banana liqueur, and guava. $138.88 per person (parties of two or more only).
COURTESY OF HAKKASAN
Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
stuff to eat and drink around town
Friday, Jan. 22—Monday, Feb. 22 Hakkasan 311 W. 43rd St. hakkasan.com
Wok-Fry Lobster in Spicy Truffle Sauce.
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
CLASSICS
COURTESY OF RAOUL’S
BRUNCH AT RAOUL’S
with FLAIR
SoHo French bistro Raoul’s is serving brunch for the first time in its 40-year history. On weekends, Raoul’s will now serve dishes like the Souffle Apple Pancake, with crème Chantilly and salted caramel; Raoul’s omelette, with smoked salmon, salmon roe, and crème fraiche; and the celebrated Raoul’s burger, with St. Andre cheese and pomme frites on the side. Saturdays & Sundays 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Raoul’s 180 Prince St. raouls.com
Raoul’s burger.
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
JACQUES TORRES CHOCOLATE NEW YORK COLLECTION Chocolatier Jacques Torres has launched a collection of chocolatey sweets dedicated to New York City. Chocolate-covered pomegranates, dried blueberries, candied ginger, caramelized peanuts, and candied orange peels will be sold in tin boxes decorated with New York icons: the yellow cab, Brooklyn Bridge, the Statue of Liberty, the subway, and the Big Apple. $12–$14 for each box, $55 for the full line. Available at all locations and online mrchocolate.com
Jacques Torres’ New York Line gift set.
BURNS SUPPER AT INCOGNITO BISTRO
WINEMAKER CATHY CORISON WITH DAVID BOULEY
Celebrate Scotland’s most famed poet, Robert Burns, at this Italian restaurant with a Scottish flair (the owners are Scottish-born Italians). A multi-course dinner will be served, with haggis, Ayrshire pork, Scotch whiskey, and cranachan on the menu. $65 per person.
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
COURTESY OF JACQUES TORRES CHOCOLATE
Monday, Jan. 25 Incognito Bistro 30 W. 18th St. (between 5th & 6th avenues) incognitobistro.com
Celebrated Napa Valley winemaker Cathy Corison will collaborate with chef David Bouley for a special dinner featuring her vintage wines. The two will host a reception before the multi-course dinner. Pairings include the 2001 Corison Napa Valley cabernet, 2006 Corison Napa Valley cabernet, and the 1998 Corison Kronos Vineyard cabernet. $395 per person. Wednesday, Jan. 27 6:30 p.m. Bouley 163 Duane St. davidbouley.com
COURTESY OF KOA
KOA SAKE SHOTS Japanese-Chinese restaurant KOA is now serving hot and cold sake shots for $4 at its bar. Gekkeikan-brand sake will be served, including the Black and Gold, with hints of honeydew, papaya, anise, and roasted nuts, and the Horin, mild with notes of overripe cantaloupe, honeydew, and honeysuckle. KOA 12 W. 21st St. koanyc.com
Flavored sake shots at KOA.
D5
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January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF CHILI FEST
NEW YORK CHILI FEST
thai
the modern
Top restaurants around the city will compete for the title of Chili Champ in the annual Chili Fest in Chelsea Market. This year’s participants include Untitled, Talde, Mokbar, La Palapa, Bark Hot Dogs, and Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer. Attendees will get to sample the chili creations while sipping on beer, hard cider, and cocktails. Proceeds go to Wellness in the Schools, an organization that promotes healthy eating in public schools. $50–$70 per person.
experience THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY!
Sunday, Jan. 31 7 p.m.–9 p.m. Chelsea Market 75 Ninth Ave. nychilifest2016.com
4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE
COURTESY OF CHILI FEST
COURTESY OF CHILI FEST
FREE DELIVERY
10 BLOCK RADIUS
2014’s Chili Fest.
SLOW WINE WORLD TOUR IN NEW YORK CITY
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists
The sustainable food organization Slow Food International has published its annual wine guide, the “Slow Wine� guide. To celebrate its launch, the group is touring different countries with wine tastings, featuring small-scale Italian winemakers who use traditional techniques. At the event, you’ll get to meet the wine producers, sample Italian food, and enjoy live music. $75 per person.
NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun
Wednesday, Feb. 3 7 p.m.–10 p.m. Highline Ballroom 431 W. 16th St. eventbrite.com
AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
v{iv} Bar & Restaurant
HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,*
NYC WINTER WINE FESTIVAL International wines from France, Italy, Spain, South Africa, California, New Zealand, Australia, Chile, Argentina, Portugal, and Austria will be available at the NYC Winter Wine Festival, which also features light hors d’oeuvres and live jazz. VIP ticket holders will get exclusive access to 12 high-end vintage wines and specialty bites, like Filet Mignon with Yukon Gold Potato and Bernaise Sauce, and Miniature Maine Lobster and Shrimp Rolls on Brioche. $67 to $199 per person. Saturday, Feb. 6 Session times: 3 p.m.–6 p.m.; 8 p.m.–11 p.m. PlayStation Theater in Times Square 1515 Broadway (at West 44th Street) newyorkwineevents.com/events/nyc-winter-wine-festival
COURTESY OF NYC BEER WEEK
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain.
2014’s NYC Beer Week in Grand Central Terminal.
• Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. COURTESY OF NYC BEER WEEK
NYC BEER WEEK
• Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet.
NYC Beer Week is back, with a lineup of events at different bars and venues across the boroughs celebrating local New York breweries. Events include a fried chicken and donuts brunch at The Redhead in East Village, beer sampling with radio station WQXR featuring music by New York composers, and Cask Fest featuring over 150 cask beers from around the state, to be paired with food from top local restaurants.
• Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
Friday, Feb. 19—Sunday, Feb. 28 Venues around the city newyorkcitybrewersguild.com/ beer-week/2016-beer-week
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Sta
D6
@EpochTaste
January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
COURTESY OF LE BOUDOIR
Le Boudoir An underground Rococo-style 75-seat bar inspired by Marie Antoinette? It’s real and it now exists, in Brooklyn Heights. Beverage director Franky Marshall (formerly of Monkey Bar and The Dead Rabbit) curates a cocktail menu offering classics and signatures with unusual spirits or liqueurs with the common thread being named after the French queen, like the Axel von Fersen with Applejack, bourbon, sesame, curry, and black caraway, and the Guillotine with mescal, scotch, banana, and honey. Red velvet banquettes, white marble tables, ornate gilded mirrors say opulence. Even the bathrooms are replicas of Marie Antoinette’s private powder room. Open daily from 6 p.m.
nique Try our U ils! Cockta
135 Atlantic Ave. Brooklyn Heights, Brooklyn 347-227-8337 chezmoiny.com
y our is ever Happy H p.m. day, 5-7
The Dauphin.
COURTESY OF AUNT JAKE’S
You will enjoy an enticing mix of Thai, Malaysian, Chinese and Japanese cusine, perfected by us. Quality and service is our passion, let us take you on a culinary journey of South East Asia.
Asian Cuisine & Cocktail Bar (212) 752-8883 | (212) 752-8012
FUSHANYC.COM 1065 First Avenue (Between 58th & 59th Street) New York, NY 10022
Aunt Jake’s: Italian Specialties Nick Boccio of Mulberry Project has recently opened Aunt Jake’s: Italian Specialties in Little Italy. “I’ve had Mulberry Project for almost five years now, and being surrounded by Italian restaurants in the heart of Little Italy, I saw the need for an Italian take-away concept in the neighborhood,” Boccio said in a press release. “Not to mention, the need to give New Yorkers a healthier option paired with quick service was imminent.” Here’s the formula: Choose a pasta and a sauce, or one of the six daily specials. Homemade pastas will include rigatoni, cavatelli, beet pappardelle, as well as gluten-free and organic options. Composed sauces by executive chef Carmine Di Giovanni will include his broken meatball sauce, lamb ragu, and roasted garlic pecorino. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
BE DELIGHTED. BE AT SONGKRAN.
Rabbit Ragu.
151 Mulberry St. (between Grand and Hester) 212-689-2130 auntjakesnyc.com
COURTESY OF THE ROYAL MUNKEY
The Royal Munkey Fish Green Curry
Lunch ✴ Dinner ✴ Delivery ✴ Catering For Reservations / Catering Orders Call 212-239-8792
SONGKRAN Homestyle Thai Kitchen 330 8th Avenue • SongkranKitchenNYC.com
NO MSG
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
The colonial occupation of India by the British, French, Dutch, and Portuguese gave rise to unique dishes. The Royal Munkey, newly opened by the team behind The Drunken Munkey and Le Bateau Ivre, takes its culinary inspiration from that time. On the menu you’ll find Chili Cheese Toast, with Pullman toast, cheddar, green chilies, cilantro, and onion; or Railway Chicken Curry alongside fare such as Goan Pork Vindalu and Double Onion Goat Curry. A large format option is available with the Slow-Smoked Raan, a whole roasted leg of lamb available for six or more people, along with breads, rice, and chutneys. The cocktails take their inspiration from colonial India as well, with names such as Lady Mountbatten, named after the wife of the last viceroy of India before its independence (Monkey Shoulders Scotch, Crème de Pamplemousse, strawberry gastrique, fresh lemon and lime juice, peach bitters) or East India Cocktail (D’usse VSOP Cognac, Combier, pineapple syrup, Luxardo, and Peychaud’s bitters). Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Syndicated
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
Rejoice, movie buffs and foodies, for at last the twain— food and music—shall meet. Tim Chung, who used to be a film location scout and is a lifelong movie buff, has opened Syndicated, a venue that features a restaurant as well as a separate movie theater. Guests can order food and drink from their seats before and during the screenings. The kitchen and bar will take inspiration from the films for specials. Count on eight different kinds of gourmet popcorn. The fare is seasonal New American, with executive chef Bret Macris serving Popcorn-crusted Fried Oysters, Bacon Butter Maple Meatballs, and Duck Confit Nachos. Other selections include a Hot Fried Chicken Sandwich, Hurricane Popcorn Tuna with horseradish beets, and Heritage Porchetta. Syndicated will air the Oscars live as well as the season premiere of the “X-Files.” The films will rotate from blockbusters to indie films to classics in every genre. Single tickets are $3. Open daily from 4 p.m., with film screenings every day.
Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
40 Bogart St., Bushwick, Brooklyn 718-386-3399 syndicatedbk.com
438 Second Ave. (between 24th and 25th streets) 646-863-2249 royalmunkey.com
MICHAEL TULIPAN
MICHAEL TULIPAN
Steak Frites.
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
D7
@EpochTaste
January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
of
Felicetti’s favorite pasta dish to cook is spaghettoni with anchovy and breadcrumbs. The ingredients are few and simple but the result is intensely flavorful.
Dreams continued from D1
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
The line Monograno Felicetti includes organic pastas made of farro, kamut, and durum wheat, each the result of years of research. Nutritionally speaking, the pasta also contains 30 percent more protein and three times the fiber of standard pasta. For farro alone, five years were needed to narrow it down from 200 to 30 farro varieties, which were then seeded in dierent areas. In the end, the chosen spot that produced the best-tasting pasta was the national park of Monti Sibillini in Umbria, where most of the company’s farro production now takes place. After similar exhaustive research, the company grows its kamut in Montana and Canada. But that’s just the first terroir to consider. “We have to watch two terroirs: the one of the grain and the one where the pasta is produced,â€? Felicetti said. Its greatest assets are the water and air of Predazzo, Italy, perched at 3,340 feet in the Dolomite Mountains of northwest Italy, where 60 tons of pasta are produced daily. Since 1908, five family generations have made pasta there, going back to Felicetti’s great-grandfather Valentino, at a time where the region was not even Italian—it was then in the lower reaches of the Austrian empire. The pasta is made the same day that the grain is ground into flour, with flowing fresh water from the Dolomites Mountains, and dried in mountain air. “Think about putting a towel to dry outside, in the mountain air or in the middle of Mexico City,â€? Felicetti said. “If you dry with polluted air, the moisture will go but the pollu-
tion will remain. So when you put the pasta in the water, the foreign taste will remain. In our case, it’s not the same. “We are the sole company in the world which can source water from a UNESCO [World Heritage] site, the Dolomites. [Finding] much purer than this, it’s quite diďŹƒcult,â€? he said. Felicetti is also president of the International Pasta Organization, and these days, being in the pasta business means facing a lot of carbophobia. One of the biggest myths about pasta, he said, is “that pasta makes you fat. I am the perfect example that it’s not true. I eat it every day but I’m not covering it with fatty, heavy sauce.â€? Not to mention that the portions of pasta eaten by Italians are generally smaller than their American counterparts—only about 100 grams, or 3.5 ounces of dried pasta, versus America’s huge platters. Pasta, he explained, is also low on the glycemic index (an indicator of blood sugar levels after eating), never over 50. In comparison, the glycemic index for bread is in the 70s or 80s. How it’s cooked also makes a dierence. Cooking it al dente (literally “to the toothâ€?), as opposed to soft and overcooked, also yields pasta lower on the glycemic index and contributes to slower absorption and release of energy. In other words, it keep you fuller for longer. Sara Baer-Sinnott, president of the non-profit Oldways, which promotes health through cultural food traditions, noted that pasta is different from other refined grains. “It sustained people for generations—there’s plenty of science that shows how healthy the Mediterranean diet is,â€? she said. But were it only for reasons of taste alone,
We are the sole company in the world which can source water from a UNESCO [World Heritage] site. Riccardo Felicetti, CEO, Felicetti
In New York City, Monograno Felicetti pasta is available at Eataly and through FreshDirect.
one would gladly get pasta right. A few years ago, Felicetti was invited to the home of one of his sales representatives in Germany. She oered to cook him spaghetti. “It was such a small pan for both of us. She put cold water in and then took 300 grams of spaghetti and broke them and put them in the water and then turned on the gas,â€? Felicetti recalled, “I said, ‘Wait a minute, what are you doing?’â€? Felicetti had her throw that batch away and showed her how to cook the next one properly. “She said, ‘Oh, this tastes dierent!’ Ma dai!â€?
Celebrating Heritage Pork, From Nose to Tail Cochon 555
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff Ever pondered the dierence between commodity pork and heritage pork? “It’s like tasting chocolate cake from an artisan bakery for the first time versus a chocolate cake bought at the grocery store,â€? said Brady Lowe, founder of Cochon555. Cochon555 is a grand pork festival that tours the country, with a mission to educate foodies about heritage breed pigs and the family farms that raise them. Lowe created the festival as an avenue for chefs to connect and do business with smalltime farmers who are raising these animals naturally, in open pastures, with no injected growth hormones or antibiotics. “Heritage breed pigs appeal in taste, aroma, texture, and aesthetic very dierently from commodity pork,â€? he said. “By cooking properly, with just salt and pepper, the amazing dierences are diďŹƒcult to describe, impossible to ignore.â€? He compared heritage pigs to the grapes used to make wine; their flavor reflects the terroir where they were raised and the grains they were fed.
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“Heritage pigs are a canvas of flavor for chefs,â€? he said. “Each breed has ranges, from slight to vast dierences in flavor, fat coverage, and muscle structures.â€? To find heritage-breed pork, he suggests visiting a local farmers’ market or butcher shop, or looking online for a local farm you can buy directly from.â€?Buying directly from the farm is the best way to invest in family farmers raising this amazing pork,â€? he said. In each city the festival visits, five chefs engage in a friendly competition, each tasked with creating six pork dishes out of an entire locally raised hog—nose to tail. The winner, voted by the public, gets to compete with winning chefs from other cities in an epic final feast in Aspen, Colorado, to be held in June. In New York City, the participating chefs will be Justin Smillie of Upland, Angie Mar of The Beatrice Inn, Hillary Sterling of Vic’s, Danny Mena of Hecho en Dumbo, and Mike Poiarko of Vinegar Hill. Cochon festivals include a slew of other porkeating activities, like an outdoor barbecue and a multi-course dinner.
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January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
SIMPLE, HEARTY STEWS
RECIPE OXTAIL RAGOUT Serves: 5
to Warm the Soul MICHAEL TULIPAN
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
The brutal winter cold is finally here. Warm up with these stews—they’re hearty enough to comfort the soul and fortify against the elements.
• 3 ounces butter • 3 tablespoons olive oil • 5 pieces of oxtail, 3-inch cut (can request this from the butcher) • 1 carrot, chopped • 1 white onion, chopped • 1 stock of celery, diced small • 2 ounces shimeji mushrooms • 1/2 pound baby shiitake mushrooms • 2 ounces enoki mushrooms • 3 chanterelle mushrooms • 3 bay leaves • 1 bunch of thyme • 1/2 bottle dry red wine • 1 liter chicken stock
DIRECTIONS Heat the butter and the oil in a large pot.
Season the oxtail with fresh black pepper and salt on all sides. When the pot is hot, add the oxtail pieces and brown on all sides. Take the meat out of the pot and reserve. In the same pot, sauté the onion, carrot, and celery for 10 minutes over medium heat. Then add the mushrooms, thyme, and the bay leaves and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the oxtail back to the pot and pour in the red wine and the chicken stock. Turn the heat up to boil for five minutes, then cook on low heat for about 4 hours, mixing the stew every 40 minutes and keeping the pot covered all other times. The stew is ready when the meat is super tender and falls off the bone. Before serving, season with salt, pepper, and a dash of sugar. Recipe courtesy of executive chef Nir Mesika, Timna, NYC MICHAEL TULIPAN
An Oxtail Stew Recipe From the Sephardic Tradition Nir Mesika, executive chef, Timna Since I can remember, my mother used to cook us chamin, a traditional stew, the Sephardic version of chulent. This dish is an entire meal for the whole family. Traditionally it’s made mainly of oxtail, grains, bone marrow, and root vegetables, and cooked over a very low flame for 24 hours. The smell of the cooking would fill the entire house at night and would not let me sleep. I couldn’t wait for the morning to try it. I took this traditional dish and the technique of slow-cooking meat, and developed my own—and a little lighter—version of this familiar (and familial) taste. I developed the recipe so it would be better suited for a casual
dinner and faster to prepare, so anyone could make it at home. The umami flavors from the mushrooms and meat make the dish very light, yet flavorful. This dish is great for cold winter days or nights. Personally, I think it’s better to prepare it during the afternoon and let it slowly cook until the sun comes down. That way all the flavors blend together and fill up the house with amazing scents and anticipation. The family can all sit together and enjoy this nutritious meal. Take some nice challah bread, and dig in. At Timna, Mesika serves the Oxtail Ragout with fresh corn polenta and stewed mushrooms.
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Jewish-MeetsMexican Brisket, LA-Style Alex Resnick, executive chef, Picnic LA This easy-to-make stew is a favorite of mine when the temperature decides to drop in LA. It’s a mash-up of my mother’s Jewish cooking and some Mexican influence that’s impossible to avoid around here. At Picnic, we use all-natural Angus brisket from Aspen Ridge Farms in Colorado, but any fresh brisket will be just as delicious.
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DIRECTIONS Peel and chop the onion and carrots into large chunks, then quarter the tomatillos. Place all ingredients (except the sour cream and cilantro) into a slow cooker. Cook on the lowest setting for 6 to 8 hours while you’re busy doing other things. The brisket should be so tender it’s falling apart. Serve with a nice dollop of sour cream, lime wedge, and cilantro. Recipe courtesy of executive chef Alex Resnick, Picnic LA, Los Angeles
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Serves: 4 • 1 pound brisket, trimmed and cubed into medium-sized pieces • 1 1/2 cups pearl barley • 3 tomatillos, husks removed and washed thoroughly • 2 medium carrots • 1 medium white onion • 2 cloves minced garlic • 8 cups beef stock (can be store bought) • 1/2 tablespoon ground cumin • 4 tablespoons sour cream • 1 bunch cilantro
• 1 lime, cut into 8 wedges • Plenty of kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
D9
@EpochTaste
January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Portuguese Bread Porridge With Shrimp Gets An Update
Often called a “Turkish bagel,� Simit are softer and lighter on the inside and crunchier on the outside. ANNA WEBBER
George Mendes, executive chef, Lupulo
ACORDA DE CAMARAO
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We also serve
occasionally until the onions are translucent, about 7 minutes.
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 300 F. Spread the bread in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake until toasted, dry, and crunchy. Let cool. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a medium cast-iron casserole over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, and a big pinch of kosher salt. Add bay leaf. Cook, stirring
Add the tomato paste and the remaining tablespoon of oil and cook, stirring occasionally for about 3 minutes. Add coriander, pimentón, chile flakes, and a big pinch of kosher salt. Stir well and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the mixture is thick and the flavors are really concentrated, about 10 minutes. Gently fold in the bread and let it soak up the juices. Drizzle with oil, add 1 cup of the stock, and fold in gently—you don’t want the bread to shred. Continue adding the stock, half a cup at a time, folding gently after each addition. The mixture will be wet, and the bread will break down a little, but you want the cubes to hold their shape. The more you work it now, the gummier the mixture will become. Discard the bay leaf.
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Gently fold in the cilantro and eggs, and keep it moving as it cooks just until the eggs are heated through. You don’t want to actually scramble the eggs, you just want them to enrich the mixture. Drizzle with oil and garnish with lime zest, or pimentón, and Maldon salt. SautÊ fresh shrimp in olive oil, salt, and pepper in a separate pan and place on top of porridge. Recipe courtesy of executive chef George Mendes, Lupulo, NYC
Ch-ch-cheers! Finger Lakes Ice Wine Harvest Late This Winter inter finally came down hard on New York’s Finger Lakes this month with single-digit temperatures at dawn and fresh snow blowing over the rolling vineyards. The wait was over for an ice wine harvest. Thick-gloved workers briskly picked frozen bunches of grapes that would be pressed into extra-sweet juice within hours of being out in the cold air. Hunt Country Vineyards makes a sweet wine that has become a specialty for a number of vineyards dotting upstate New York hillsides—albeit one dependent on the increasingly noticeable vagaries of winter. “It was probably the most stressful year that we’ve ever had. It’s the latest that we’ve ever picked,â€? said vineyard owner Art Hunt, standing over a bin of vidal blanc grapes about to be pressed. Wisps of snow covered the fruit. “It’s like biting into the finest sorbet,â€? Hunt said after talking o a glove to taste a grape, “just tons of flavor.â€? Ice wine harvests are a far cry from travelogue images of grapes ripening under a radiant sun. These grapes are left on the vine through at least the fall. When temperatures get low enough to freeze the water in the grapes, winemakers pounce. The grapes with ice crystals in them yield a thicker, more concentrated juice—around 38 percent sugar compared with 22 percent for juice used to make white table wines. The resulting wine is sweeter, heavier, and—because of the extra work to produce it—often pricier. Ice wine has a long history in Germany and is big in Canada, but it remains a small niche in the multibillion-dollar U.S. wine industry, confined mostly to upstate New York, Ohio, and Michigan. The Finger Lakes, New York’s highest-profile winemaking region, has had more than about a half-dozen wineries devoting some acreage to ice wines. Vineyards closer to lakes Erie and Ontario have also produced ice wines. “In Germany, it’s a little bit more of a novelty than it is an annual product,â€? said John Fischer, professor of wine and spirits management at the Culinary Institute of America. In upstate New York, he said, Tthey have turned it into an
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tako: “octopus� and yaki: “fried�/ “cooked� A true Japanese comfort food!
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• 3 1/2 cups whole-wheat country bread, cubed • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1 small white onion, finely diced • 3 minced garlic cloves • Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste • 8 fresh shrimp • 1 fresh bay leaf, torn • 1 teaspoon tomato paste • 1 1/2 teaspoons of coriander seeds, toasted and ground • 1 teaspoon pimentón (smoked sweet paprika), plus more to taste • Pinch of crushed red chile flakes • 2 cups shrimp stock • 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped • 2 large eggs, beaten • 1/4 teaspoon freshly grated lime zest • Maldon sea salt, to taste
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4 Convenient Locations!
Serves: 4
By Michael Hill
Salads, Sandwiches, Turkish Tea and Coffee
124 W. 72nd St, New York 111 Worth St, New York 11 Waverly Place, New York 1400 Broadway, New York
JAC
KI E
RECIPE
Better
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What inspired me to create—or actually reinterpret—this Portuguese classic was the idea to present a dish that has both refined and rustic, peasant qualities to it. Using dayold bread was the start. Getting that soft, porridge-like consistency was the goal—with some crunch and chewiness from the grilled shrimp. The dish is perfect during colder weather, but is enjoyed year-round. It’s simple ingredients turned wholesome and satisfying.
annual product. It’s pretty bankable up there.â€? Hunt has been making ice wine since 1987, annually reserving a few rows of grapes among his 65 acres under production. Some ice wine makers use riesling grapes, but Hunt likes the vidal blanc, a tough-skinned grape that hangs in loose bunches. Grapes plucked this month range from golden green to deeper purples and browns. The darker grapes are aected by botrytis, or “noble rot,â€? a fungus that can be beneficial for dessert wines. “We have a range of flavors when we press the ice wine. It’s going to be very complex,â€? Hunt said. “We have raisiny, honey, plummy flavors and a good crisp acidity.â€? Growing grapes is a gamble, but more so for ice wine. More time on the vine leaves the grapes vulnerable to poaching deer and birds. Some fall o the vine. Expecting a mild winter, Hunt harvested half his ice wine grapes in mid-December for late-harvest wine. That left a bit more than a ton of grapes for ice wine by harvest, probably not enough to meet demand for the entire year. Recent warm weather in the northeast has heightened concerns about global warming. But Hunt thinks winters will stay cold enough at least during his lifetime. While the ice wine yield this year was small, they had been good the previous two years amid cold winters. It’s hard to predict year to year. “You never can tell,â€? he said. “It keeps you humble.â€?
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Classic Margherita Pizza
A glass of very sweet juice yielded from fresh pressed Vidal Blanc grapes.
From The Associated Press ALL PHOTOS BY HEATHER AINSWORTH/AP
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D10
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January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
SUPERBOWL EATS SUPERBOWL EATS
A Little Beer Brings a Lot of Flavor to These Sliders By Sara Moulton Big provisions are required to watch the big game, and nothing’s more substantial than a burger, even in its mini-form—the slider. Indeed, if you plan to serve a variety of dishes for the Super Bowl, sliders are more sensible than the full-sized guys. But they happen to be a little trickier to cook than a standard-issue burger. The slider’s size makes it tough to put a nice crust on the outside while ensuring that it doesn’t overcook on the inside. These sliders are adapted from a burger I used to make a million years ago at a bar in Ann Arbor called the Del Rio—my first job as a cook. Dubbed the Det Burger, this marvel was dreamed up before I landed at the Del Rio by a cook named Bob Detweiler, who baptized the creation after himself. The heart of the original version was a quarter-pounder topped by “the Det mix”—canned mushrooms, canned olives, grilled onions, freeze-dried green peppers, and Kraft Singles. But there was also a secret ingredient: beer. The Det Burger was steamed in beer. If it wasn’t quite “the burger that made Ann Arbor famous,” it was undeniably a citywide favorite. A generation later, I assembled the same winning combo of ingredients—though in a fresher form— and then focused on the cooking process to make sure that these mini-burgers ended up both juicy and crusty. There are a few key points. First, the sliders need to be about 3/4-inch thick, not only so they don’t overcook, but so you can fit all of them at one time into the skillet. Second, the skillet needs to be large, a 12-incher. If you don’t have a skillet that big, use two smaller ones and cook six sliders in each.
And third, whichever skillet you use, the oil must be heated until it’s almost smoking. At the start, you want the burgers to sear, not steam, which is what will happen if the pan isn’t hot enough. At first, the sliders will be crowded together in the skillet, but they’ll shrink down as they cook, giving off fat and juices in the process. You deglaze the pan with beer, of course, which mingles intimately with the fat and juices released by the burgers to create a delectable pan sauce. I recommend spooning some of this liquid onto the buns before sliding in the burgers, but my son proposes a more extravagant way to roll: pour the sauce into ramekins and invite your guests to dunk their sliders into it between bites. Whatever happens onscreen, you’ll be winning at home. From The Associated Press
Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts
57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Asian Fusion Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.
BEER-STEAMED CHEESE AND MUSHROOM BEEF SLIDERS Prep & Cooking Time: 50 minutes Makes: 12 sliders • • • • • • • • • • •
3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1/2 cup finely chopped yellow onion 3 ounces mushrooms (white, cremini or shiitake), finely chopped Kosher salt 2 tablespoons finely chopped pitted green olives 2 tablespoons finely chopped, drained, canned green chilies 3 ounces sliced sharp cheddar cheese, broken into 12 equal pieces 1 1/2 pounds ground beef, shaped into 12 sliders, each about 3/4 inch thick Ground black pepper 1/3 cup beer 12 slider buns
DIRECTIONS In a large (at least 12-inch) skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onion and cook until golden, about 8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the onion to a bowl. Add another tablespoon of the oil to the pan, the mushrooms and a hefty pinch of salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid the mushrooms give off has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to the bowl with the onion. Reserve the skillet. Add the olives and chilies to the mushroom mixture and stir well. Set aside. Return the skillet to high heat. Add the remaining tablespoon of oil and wait until it is almost smoking. Meanwhile, season the sliders on one side with salt and pepper. When the oil is hot, add the sliders, seasoned side down (it will be a little crowded in the pan), and cook them until they are just browned on the first side, about 2 minutes. Sprinkle the top side of each with salt and pepper, turn the sliders over and cook for another 2 minutes. While the sliders are browning, top each slider with a heaping teaspoon of the mushroom mixture, dividing all of the mixture among the sliders, then place a piece of cheese on top of each. Quickly pour the beer into the pan, all around the sliders, cover the pan and steam for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the sliders sit in the pan for another minute to let the cheese melt completely. Spoon some of the liquid in the skillet onto the tops and bottoms of the buns, transfer the sliders to the buns and serve right away.
Easy Tips for Making a Tastier, Healthier Turkey Chili By Melissa d’Arabian
ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE
RECIPE
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GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s Chinese Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
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EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS
403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com
Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings
Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
Everyone has a favorite chili recipe, and this is the time of year to break out yours, invite over some friends, and yell at football players on TV. Maybe it’s time to try a new, healthier recipe, too? Chili is classic American comfort food, so we automatically assume that it can’t be healthy. But since it is so darned tasty, it’s worth the price of admission to try. And while I’m not against the occasional indulgence, I also love a recipe that manages to be both comforting and healthy. Enter my game day turkey chili. Stay with me, here. This will not be your typical turkey chili because I have a few tricks up my sleeve. Don’t get me wrong, I love good turkey chilies. But they do occupy a special place in the stratified chili eco-system. Put them in a chili competition and you’ll see they land well below the fatty brisket chilies that feature tiny puddles of tasty melted fat that pleasantly coat the palate.
Turkey chili, if I’m honest, has been relegated to the “at least it’s hot” status for too long. Here are my tricks. First, make it a red chili. White chili step aside for a moment. The red part comes from tomato, which is healthy, and frankly just feels like comfort food. Second, skip the salt. Instead, use soy sauce directly on the meat after cooking it. This is perhaps the greatest tip I can give you regarding ground turkey! White-ish meat in a deep red chili looks a little strange. You are reminded that you are eating the healthy turkey chili. But deepen that meat color just a little with the soy sauce and you are back in the land of real meaty chili. The soy sauce also adds tons of rich, savory meaty flavor, a big benefit for a meat that can taste a little flat. Final tip: Add a bit of unsweetened cocoa powder, which deepens both the color and the flavor. This is turkey chili done right! And so, 2016 is off to a good start. From The Associated Press
RECIPE GAME DAY TURKEY CHILI Prep & Cooking Time: 45 minutes Serves: 8 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
2 teaspoons vegetable oil, divided 1 pound lean ground turkey 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce 2 teaspoons smoked paprika 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 1 red bell pepper, cored and finely chopped 12-ounce light beer Two 15-ounce cans low-sodium black beans, drained and rinsed 14-ounce can low-sodium tomato sauce Two 14-ounce cans crushed tomatoes 2 tablespoons chili powder Dash of cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon cocoa powder Hot sauce, to taste Plain low-fat Greek yogurt, to serve Chopped scallions, to serve Shredded cheddar or Mexican cheese, to serve
DIRECTIONS In a Dutch oven or other large, heavy pot over medium-high, heat 1 teaspoon of the oil. Add the turkey
and cook, breaking it up, until cooked through, about 7 minutes. Sprinkle the turkey with the soy sauce and smoked paprika, then mix until well-coated. Continue to cook until any moisture in the pot is gone, about 3 minutes. Spoon the meat out of the pan and set aside. Return the pot to the heat and add the remaining oil. Add the onion and red pepper, then cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to high, then add the beer to deglaze the pan, scraping the bottom to loosen any stuck bits. Simmer for 2 minutes. Return the meat to the pot, along with the beans, tomato sauce, crushed tomatoes, chili powder, cayenne, and cocoa powder. Bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low, then simmer for 30 minutes. Serve with hot sauce, yogurt, scallions, and cheese on the side.
D11
@EpochTaste
January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
Keep the Crisp, Lose the Labor in These Super Bowl Wings
All the flavors of Asia, under one roof
Arbor Bistro • 226 W. Houston St. (btw. Varick & Bedford) 212-255-7888 • arborbistronyc.com
By Alison Ladman Come Super Bowl Sunday, we all love a heaping platter of wings. They’ve got to be crunchy. They’ve got to be a little bit greasy. They’ve got to be so delicious we can’t stop eating even after we know we’ve eaten too many. What we don’t love about the day of the big game? The work involved in making those Prep & Cooking Time: 3 1/2 hours (15 minutes active) wings a reality. Because perfectly crisped Makes: 30 and seasoned wings typically require a fair For the Wings amount of effort, not to mention vats of hot oil. • 2 tablespoons baking powder And dealing with that is so much less fun that • 1 teaspoon kosher salt cracking a beer on the couch with your friends. • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper So we created these hands-off chicken wings • 5 pounds chicken wings, split and wing tips removed that require almost no effort from you. Yet, For the Honey-Sriracha Sauce they are every bit as crispy and addictive as a • 1/3 cup soy sauce traditional recipe. • 3 tablespoons Sriracha The secret is baking powder. You start the • 3 tablespoons honey recipe a few hours ahead of when you want • 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh garlic to serve the wings. Just toss the wings in a • 1 1/2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil large bowl with some salt, pepper, and baking powder, then refrigerate them for a while. For Cilantro-Sour Cream Dip The baking powder reacts with the skin, help• 3/4 cup sour cream ing to draw out moisture. Less moisture equals • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro more crisp! • 3 tablespoons rice vinegar When it’s time to cook, you just arrange the • 3 scallions, white and green parts, finely chopped wings on a wire rack set over a rimmed baking sheet. The rack keeps the air circulating DIRECTIONS around the wings and keeps them Line 2 baking sheets with foil, then arrange a wire rack over the foil. up and out of any liquid that drips Coat the rack with cooking spray. onto the pan. Again, less liquid Dunk these In a large bowl, stir together the baking powder, salt, and black (and more air) is key to getwings in honeypepper. Add the wings and toss to coat evenly. Spread the ting the skin perfectly crisp. Sriracha sauce, chicken wings over the rack and refrigerate for 2 hours, uncovered. When the wings are done, we then cilantro-sour like to dunk them first in our When ready to cook, heat the oven to 375 F. cream dip. honey-Sriracha sauce, then in Bake the chicken wings for 60 to 70 minutes, flipping them halfway our cilantro-sour cream dip. But through, or until very crispy and golden brown. if you’d prefer the more traditional While the wings bake, prepare the sauces. For each sauce, combine Buffalo sauce and blue cheese, go for it!
RECIPE
HANDS-OFF PARTY WINGS
From The Associated Press
all ingredients in a small bowl and mix until uniform. Serve the wings on a platter accompanied by the sauces for dunking.
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
For Serious Super Bowl Comfort Food, a Hot Dip By Katie Workman Hosting a horde of fans for the Super Bowl? Or are you crashing somebody’s party and tasked with bringing something delicious? Either way, you could spend a lot of time thinking about what to prepare. Or you could just make this and know beyond any doubt that you had picked a crowd-pleaser. What is it about hot dips? I can show some restraint around a room-temperature dip. Because sour cream is fine and all. ... But offer me something hot and cheesy and golden on top, and you’d better watch your fingers. This dip makes no pretense at healthfulness. Because it’s the Super Bowl! Not the day to start your diet. I don’t know about you, but I like my healthy foods healthy, and my decadent foods decadent. Still, if you insist, you certainly can pick and choose among the ingredients and decide where you want to slim down the dish. You could, for example, use reduced-fat shredded cheese or Neufchatel (low-fat cream cheese) instead of regular. And while we’re talking substitutes, you could use fresh spinach in this recipe, but frozen is just fine (and so convenient). If you are bringing this to someone’s house, you’ll need to heat it there, which means you’ll absolutely need to clear this with the host ahead of time. There are few things more exasperating than a guest rushing into your kitchen and surprising you with the information that they need a space in your oven and they need it now. But unless there is not an inch of oven left, your hosts probably will be fairly delighted by the prospect of a hot dip in their home. I know I would be. From The Associated Press
Pan-fried dumplings
RECIPE HOT-AND-CREAMY PESTO SPINACH DIP
Uncle Ted’s fried rice
Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes (10 minutes active) Serves: 8 • 2 teaspoons olive or vegetable oil • 1 teaspoon finely minced garlic • 9-ounce package frozen chopped spinach, thawed and squeezed to remove excess liquid • 8-ounce package cream cheese, softened • 3/4 cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese • 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese • 1/4 cup milk or cream • 1/4 cup minced fresh basil • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 350 F. Coat a shallow, 4-cup baking dish or 9-inch pie pan with cooking spray. In a medium skillet over medium, heat the oil. Add the garlic, stir for 30 seconds, then add the spinach and cook, stirring frequently, until the spinach is cooked and no liquid remains in the pan, about 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, combine the cream cheese, Monterey Jack, Parmesan, milk, basil, and a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper. Use an electric mixer to beat until well combined, then add the spinach mixture and mix again until fully incorporated. Transfer the mixture to the prepared pan, smoothing the top, then bake for 20 minutes, or until hot and bubbling. Serve hot with bread or crackers.
Tofu bites
Shrimp with vegetables
Uncle Ted's MODERN CHINESE Our dumplings are amazing, but they’re only the beginning...
!
Celebrate CHINESE NEW YEAR with our set menu! Feb. 5–13 $32 pp, min of 2 people
Egg Rolls Duck dumplings General Tso’s Chicken Soup Dumplings Pan Seared Salmon Steak with Ginger Sauce Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausage.
www.UncleTedsNYC.com
163 Bleecker St.New York, NY 10012 212.777.1395 Hours Sun.–Thurs. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–12 a.m.
D12
@EpochTaste
January 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY ERIC RISBERG/AP
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty
Irish coffee drinks at the Buena Vista Cafe. Up to 2,000 are served each day.
Sourdough bread at Fisherman’s Wharf.
Farmer’s market outside the Ferry Building.
Dungeness crab at Fisherman’s Wharf.
10 THINGS to Try in San Francisco During the Super Bowl
By Michelle Locke
South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
San Francisco is a city with serious food game, whether playing as multi-starred cuisine served in a white tablecloth hush or a simple crab cocktail eaten amid the boisterous clamor of Fisherman’s Wharf. And with the Super Bowl heading to nearby Santa Clara, the hungry hordes hankering for a taste of the local foodscene won’t be disappointed. If you’re lucky enough to be among them—whether you’re looking to dine on one of the city’s iconic standbys or venture into cutting-edge cuisine— here’s a guide to 10 foods and drinks San Francisco is famous for and where to find them. Beer Anchor Brewing and San Francisco have a history that goes all the way back to 1849, when German brewer Gottlieb Brekle arrived with his family. The brewery weathered earthquakes, fires, and Prohibition just fine, but almost went under entirely when midcentury Americans developed a taste for mass-produced beer. In 1965, Fritz Maytag saved the place from bankruptcy, bringing back Anchor Steam Beer and writing a new chapter in suds history. You can get a first-person look at the brewery via tours available most days except holidays. The tours cost $15 per person, take about 90 minutes and conclude with a tasting. Reservations are required. Another option is the 21st Amendment Brewery & Restaurant (563 2nd St.), which has a selection of house beers served with traditional pub grub. Cioppino This is the fish stew created in San Francisco by Italian fishermen in North Beach in the late 1800s. They’d toss into a pot whatever seafood was left from the day’s catch—crab, shrimp, clams, fish, and others—along with onions, garlic, tomatoes, olive oil, wine, and herbs. Italian restaurants started serving the dish and soon it was part of the region’s culinary lexicon. A solid bet in North Beach is Sotto Mare (552 Green St.). Tadich Grill (240 California St.) also is a good choice. Coffee This is a fully caffeinated city with coffee shops on just about every block. For something out of the ordinary, try Ritual, a pioneer in the craft caffeine movement. The flagship location is 1026 Valencia St. in the Mission District. Blue Bottle, which began across the bay in Oakland, has a spot in San Francisco’s Ferry Building. And for coffee with that little extra kick, try the famous Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista Cafe in Fisherman’s Wharf (2765 Hyde St.).
212-594-4963 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
Crab You can pick up a traditional crab cocktail at one of the many vendors lining Fisherman’s Wharf. For a different take, try it roasted and served with garlic noodles at Thanh Long (4101 Judah St.). Like your crab crispy? Get it shelled, battered and deepfried at the R & G Lounge in Chinatown (631 Kearny St.). Street Scene For meals on wheels, check out Off the Grid, a roaming event featuring food trucks,
carts, tents and live entertainment. Download the app to get information on schedules and participants. Oysters Oysters on the half shell are a long-standing San Francisco tradition. For an elegant take with a great view of the Bay Bridge try Waterbar (399 The Embarcadero). Starting Jan. 30 dinner will be accompanied by a free light show with the return of the Bay Lights, a display that flashes nightly on the west span of the bridge. Also on the waterfront, Hog Island Oyster Bar in the Ferry Building. Sourdough The region’s tradition of sourdough— bread leavened with a wild yeast starter or “mother” dough—dates back to the Gold Rush. Boudin Bakery, established in 1849— according to bakery history the original “mother dough” was saved in a bucket during the 1906 earthquake—has a veritable shrine to sourdough at its Fisherman’s Wharf location (160 Jefferson St). It includes a museum and demonstration bakery. Another good place to try this crusty creation is Tartine Bakery (600 Guerrero St.). Tea Whether you’re parched from purchasing Pradas and other goodies from the boutiques of Union Square or simply resting up from an afternoon of window shopping, The Rotunda at Neiman Marcus is a fun spot to enjoy the elegant refreshment of afternoon tea. Set under a stained glass dome with views of Union Square, the restaurant serves teas, starting at $45, from 2:30 to 4 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, and 2:30 to 5 p.m. Friday and Saturday (150 Stockton St., Level Four). Or try the Samovar Tea Lounge at Yerba Buena Gardens (730 Howard St.). English tea service starts at $24. Tiki If you like Tiki bars, a stop at the Fairmont Hotel’s Tonga Room is mandatory. Set around what used to be the hotel’s indoor swimming pool, the bar features rain shows, live music, and more kitsch than you can throw a tiny paper umbrella at (950 Mason St.). Another option is Smuggler’s Cove, which has more than 400 rums (650 Gough St.). Vegetarian Into veggies with a vista? Greens Restaurant is not just a vegetarian restaurant, it’s a high-end spot that has been nominated for best overall restaurant in America in the James Beard Awards and is set in historic Fort Mason Center with views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Marin Headlands (2 Marina Blvd., Fort Mason Center Building A). You can also find bountiful produce at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Markets held Tuesday, Thursdays, and Saturdays. For a futuristic take on food, try Eatsa (121 Spear St.). There are no waiters or cashiers here. You place your order on wall-mounted tablets, then wait for one of the illuminated cubbies lining one wall to display your name in lights, indicating your order’s ready. Eatsa specializes in quinoa-vegetable bowls in myriad combinations. All are vegetarian and some are vegan. From The Associated Press