ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF TIME INC. BOOKS
D1 April 14–20, 2017
Breakfast at Arepa Factory on D3
www.EpochTaste.com
Iron Skillet Shrimp With Grapefruit.
‘Real Cooking With Real Ingredients’ Sam Talbot, chef and restaurateur of Pretty Southern, releases new cookbook
CHANNALY PHILIPP
I
f dreams of summer beaches inspire you to revive those old winter resolutions about eating healthier—because, let’s face it, what kind of crazy idea is it to start dieting in the dead of winter, anyway?—there’s a cookbook for you. It’s “100% Real: 100 Insanely Good Recipes for Clean Food Made Fresh” by chef and restaurateur Sam Talbot. He has good reason to write such a book. Talbot, who has Type 1 diabetes and leads an active life—whether it’s gym workouts, yoga, surfing, or snowboarding—gets a lot of curious people asking him about his diet. Talbot was motivated to write a book not just for the 29.1 million people in the United States diagnosed with diabe-
tes, but for anyone who is generally interested in clean food without “fabricated, processed, added nonsense,” he said in a phone interview. “It’s real cooking with real ingredients.” The cookbook release coincides with the opening of his new Brooklyn restaurant, Pretty Southern, which mirrors a similar approach to eating. Pretty, he said, can be taken different ways. To Talbot, the essence of the word means organic, clean, and sourced sustainably. For example, the restaurant serves gluten-free fried chicken and lemonade that makes use of puréed strawberries as a sweetener—“like, why wouldn’t you do that?” he asked, as if it was the most obvious thing in the world.
A Type 1 diabetic, Talbot was inspired to write a cookbook about clean food.
See Talbot on D2
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April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com
RECIPE CHICKEN MEATBALL BANH MI Hands-on: 1 hour, 15 minutes Total: 1 hour, 15 minutes Serves 6 My version of the epic Vietnamese-French sandwich is all about texture, the balance between acidity and spiciness, and the crunch of the vegetables and the crusty bread.
Pickled Vegetables
• • • • • • • •
1 tablespoon bottled yuzu juice 1/2 cup unseasoned rice vinegar 1/4 cup coconut sugar 1 teaspoon red chili flakes 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups julienned cucumber 2 cups julienned carrots 2 cups julienned daikon
Spicy Mayonnaise
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‘Real Cooking With Real Ingredients’ Talbot continued from D1 In his cookbook, the list of pantry must-haves that Talbot recommends is remarkably pared down: some grains, legumes, healthy oils, vinegars, herbs and spices, nuts, seeds, and a handful of “powerhouse” ingredients such as chia seeds and maca. “To cook, you need a clean environment so ... you can see where your favorite spices, your favorite grains, your favorite flours are. Not 19 of each, just one,” Talbot said. Nothing about “100% Real” feels self-denying or ascetic in the least, though. And if the pantry list is pared down, that’s because all the other ingredients are fresh. The dishes I tested from the cookbook burst with bold flavors. One of Talbot’s cheffy traits is his embracing of acidity, an element in dishes that literally makes your mouth water. “I love citrus, I love acid,” Talbot said. “Food, when it’s lacking something, it’s usually one of two things: acid or salt.” For example, he has a recipe for iron skillet shrimp with three sources of acidity: a pink grapefruit, rice vinegar, and fresh lime juice— the latter two in a zesty vinaigrette. As for the shrimp, they get a dusting of cumin and paprika before they’re sautéed. All of the ingredients come together—with a handful of
I love citrus, I love acid. Sam Talbot, chef and restaurateur
FINESSE
Ancient principles of Greek cuisine combined with modern techniques, yield a harmonious balance of flavors in every dish, at Nerai.
55 East 54th Street | New York | (646) 844-2275 www.nerainyc.com
1 1/2 cups mayonnaise 1/2 teaspoon fish sauce 1 tablespoon minced red onion 6 tablespoons cilantro leaves, chopped 1 to 2 tablespoons hot chili sauce 1 tablespoon grated ginger
Meatballs
• • • • •
Crunchy pickles and crusty bread add texture to the Chicken Meatball Banh Mi.
fresh cilantro, thinly sliced red onions, and toasted hazelnuts—to create a lively combination. Even more popular with my testers was the Chicken Meatball Banh Mi. With spicy-sweet meatballs, crunchy pickles, and crusty bread, it made for some very happy eaters. Talbot walks Manhattan’s Chinatown markets as well as the city’s green markets, so in the cookbook you’ll see ingredients like Chinese long beans, bok choy, oyster mushrooms, and pea shoots. And the influences are not just Asian, but global, in scope. For example, there are recipes for skirt steak with a rustic chimchurri sauce; plantain chips; an Italian-inflected shrimp and grits with pancetta and heirloom tomatoes; and warm Camembert topped with strawberry sauce. Talbot offers a dessert section as well, with recipes like vegan chocolate chip cookies with salted chili (which are “moist, chewy, delicious—everything you need in a cookie,” Talbot told me). If your sweet tooth is particularly assertive, there’s Apples Foster With Coconut-and-Whiskey Caramel. But the beauty of Talbot’s recipes is that they’re so bold and packed with flavor, dessert just seems superfluous.
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1 pound ground chicken 1/4 cup chopped fresh basil 4 garlic cloves, minced 2 shallots, finely chopped 1/2 cup cilantro leaves, chopped, plus sprigs for garnish 4 green onions, finely chopped 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger 2 tablespoons fish sauce 1 tablespoon gochujang 2 tablespoons coconut sugar 2 teaspoons cornstarch 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons duck fat
• 6 hero rolls or 6-inch baguettes • 2 jalapeño chiles, sliced
DIRECTIONS 1. To prepare the Pickled Vegetables: Combine the yuzu juice and vinegar in a bowl. Stir in the 1/4 cup sugar, red chili flakes, and 1 teaspoon salt until dissolved. Add the cucumber, carrots, and daikon. Cover with plastic wrap. Let the vegetables marinate at room temperature for about 1 hour, tossing occasionally. 2. To prepare the Spicy Mayonnaise: Combine the mayonnaise and next 5 ingredients in a small bowl. Cover and chill. 3. To prepare the Meatballs: Gently mix the ground chicken and next 12 ingredients in a large bowl. Using moistened hands, shape the mixture into 1 1/2- to 1 3/4-inch meatballs. 4. Heat the duck fat in a skillet over medium-high. Working in batches, sauté the meatballs until cooked through, turning to brown on all sides. Keep warm. 5. Slice the rolls open lengthwise. Toast in the oven, if desired. Coat the insides of the rolls with the spicy mayonnaise. Divide the meatballs among the sandwiches. Top with the pickled vegetables, jalapeño slices, and cilantro sprigs. Tip: Gochujang is a Korean chili paste. If you don’t have it on hand, use Sriracha or another chili sauce.
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April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF TIME INC. BOOKS
1
Arepa Factory ANNIE WU
RECIPE BOK CHOY WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS Hands-on: 35 minutes Total: 35 minutes Servings: 4 One of the routines I’ve developed as a New Yorker is wandering up and down the streets of Chinatown to check out what’s available in the market stalls there, since it is so different from what’s to be found in the humongous Union Square Greenmarket in Manhattan or the McCarren Park market in my Brooklyn neighborhood. What always knocks me for a loop is the amount and variety of the greens, especially the bok choy. This dish derives from that experience—and from the influence of Chinese cuisine on cooking in New York.
• 4 teaspoons fine salt, divided • 1 large bunch (about 2 pounds) bok choy • 1 tablespoon olive oil • 1/4 cup 1/4-inch-thick diagonally cut celery slices • 2 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced • 2 tablespoons finely chopped shallot • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh ginger • 4 to 6 ounces oyster mushrooms, thinly sliced
• 1 teaspoon finely chopped jalapeño, optional • 2 teaspoons tamari • 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro • 1 tablespoon chili vinegar (or make your own, page 235) • 1/4 cup roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas) • 1 lemon, cut into wedges
DIRECTIONS 1. Bring 4 quarts water to a boil in a stockpot or large Dutch oven over high. Add 2 teaspoons of the salt. Add the bok choy, and cook, uncovered, until bright green, about 15 seconds. Drain well, and set aside. 2. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium. Add the celery, garlic, shallot, and ginger, and cook, stirring often, until translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms, jalapeño, if desired, and tamari, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms soften, 2 to 3 minutes. 3. Chop the cooked bok choy, and add to the skillet; cook, stirring often, until tender, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cilantro, vinegar, and remaining 2 teaspoons salt. Sprinkle with the pumpkin seeds, and serve with the lemon wedges on the side.
Sandwiches in some shape or form can be found in cuisines all around the world. In Venezuela, arepas are the breakfast sandwiches of choice. The “bread” is ground maize shaped into flat, round pancake-like discs that are simultaneously crunchy and chewy. For the filling inside, the possibilities are manifold. At Arepa Factory in the East Village, Venezuela’s national dish, “pabellón,” makes for a traditional filling. The rice and beans dish is usually made with shredded beef, stewed black beans, and fried sweet plantains. Arepa Factory adds a dash of green salsa and Guayanés cheese, a mild variety made from Venezuelan cow’s milk, to cut through the hearty ingredients ($9.75). For a lighter arepa that includes the quintessential breakfast ingredient, eggs, go for the Perico ($8.75). Scrambled eggs are mixed with green and red bell peppers, then combined with black beans, Guayanés cheese, and sour cream. Another filling, La Negra, combines asado negro, a classic roast beef dish commonly cooked in Worcestershire sauce, bell peppers, and red wine, with sweet plantains and Guayanés cheese, the ultimate fusion of sweet and savory ($9.25). You can also choose to have your sandwich on a cachapa, a close cousin to the arepa made from mashed corn. More chewy than the arepa, it has a sweet corn taste and notes of charred smokiness from spending time on the griddle. 1. The La Negra cachapa is an alluring fusion of sweet and savory. 2. The Pabellón arepa, named after Venezuela’s national dish. 3. The Perico arepa with scrambled eggs, black beans, Guayanés cheese, and sour cream.
2
3
Arepa Factory
147 Avenue A (between East Ninth & East 10th streets) East Village 646-490-6828 ArepaFactory.com Hours Monday–Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–9 p.m.
RECIPE IRON SKILLET SHRIMP WITH GRAPEFRUIT Hands-on: 20 minutes Total: 20 minutes Serves 4 1 pink grapefruit 1/4 cup rice vinegar 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice (from 1 lime) 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 teaspoons raw honey 1 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, divided 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, divided 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 1/2 pounds peeled and deveined large raw shrimp 1 teaspoon paprika 1 teaspoon ground cumin 5 ounces seasonal lettuce or greens (something with bite and body, such as arugula or spinach) • 1/2 cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves • 1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion • 1/4 cup lightly toasted hazelnuts (loose skins rubbed off), chopped
The flavors of shrimp and grapefruit go well together.
• • • • • • • • • • • • •
DIRECTIONS
“100% Real: 100 Insanely Good Recipes for Clean Food Made Fresh,” published by Oxmoor House, is priced at $29.99.
1. Using a sharp knife, peel the grapefruit, and remove all pith. Carefully slice the fruit segments from the membrane. 2. Whisk together the vinegar, lime juice, mustard, honey, ginger, and 1/4 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper in a large bowl. Add 1/2 cup of the oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly to combine.
WE’RE MORE THAN MEATS THE PLATE
3. Sprinkle the shrimp with the paprika, cumin, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium. Add the shrimp, and cook just until the shrimp turn pink, about 2 minutes per side. 4. Add the grapefruit, shrimp, greens, cilantro, onion, and hazelnuts to the vinaigrette in the bowl. Toss well. Reprinted from “100% REAL: 100 Insanely Good Recipes for Clean Food Made Fresh” by Sam Talbot. Copyright 2017. Published by Oxmoor House. Reprinted with permission from Time Inc. Books, a division of Time Inc. New York, N.Y. All rights reserved.
MIDTOWN 551 Fifth Avenue 212.972.3315
WORLD TRADE CENTER 136 Washington Street 212.608.0171
HACKENSACK One Riverside Square 201.487.1303
MORTONS.COM
GREAT NECK 777 Northern Boulevard 516.498.2950
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April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PHOTOS COURTESY OF RAMEN LAB
EASTER BRUNCH AT THE PLAZA SUNDAY, APRIL 16 The Plaza Hotel is hosting a pair of events for Easter Sunday. The Palm Court restaurant will serve a grand buffet brunch, with options like Citrus Scented Brioche French Toast, Chardonnay Braised Artichokes, and Gianduja Chocolate Egg with caramel cream and hazelnut sable. From 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. $145 for adults, $65 for children.
Sample Parisian Ramen at the Ramen Lab ANNIE WU
J
ean-Baptiste Meusnier had his first taste of ramen when he visited the Japantown neighborhood of Paris. He was hooked. In 2009, he traveled to Japan and became fascinated by the culture and cuisine at its source. “It was a shock to me that the food I knew was so good in Japan,” he said. Meusnier vowed that he would one day bring true Japanese ramen to France. So while on vacations from his job as an airline pilot, he traveled across Japan to sample regional bowls of ramen, enrolled in a ramen cooking school, and trained under famous ramen chefs. In 2016, he opened his own shop, Kodawari (meaning “attention to detail” in Japanese), in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Paris. Kodawari sources local ingredients and the noodles are made in-house, from wheat that is grown especially for the restaurant at
After the Easter parade concludes, there will be a 1920s-themed soirée at The Rose Club and The Champagne Bar, with an orchestra playing hits from the era. Guests are encouraged to dress in vintage Easter outfits. From 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. $50 per person. Purchase tickets at Eventbrite.com (search “Easter Parade The Plaza”) The Plaza 768 Fifth Ave. (between West 58th & West 59th streets) Midtown
THE BOBA ROOM Kodawari vegan ramen with brown pumpkin broth, bamboo shoots, pickled beetroot, and watercress.
THROUGH SATURDAY, APRIL 29 Ramen Lab 70 Kenmare St. (between Mulberry & Mott streets) Nolita
a farm in Champagne. At first, it was difficult finding someone in France who knew how to mill flour for ramen. “Either people laughed at me or they said it’s impossible to make,” he said. Finally, he found an old family mill in Burgundy that agreed to do it. This month, Meusnier is the guest chef at the Ramen Lab in the Lower East Side. Among his signature ramen bowls are the Kurogoma, with chicken broth infused with nutty black sesame and topped with minced garlic and ginger; and the Kodawari, a vegan ramen with brown pumpkin broth, mushroom oil, and pickled beetroot.
SATURDAY, APRIL 22–SATURDAY, MAY 6 The Boba Room is a 1,600-square-foot art installation devoted to bubble tea, featuring gigantic bouncing balls and gummy candies. There will be tastings available from ViVi Bubble Tea, Gong Cha, Pa Tea, and Tea and Milk. $10 for adults, $7 for children. TheBobaRoom.com
The Kodawari shop in Paris evokes the past days of Tokyo.
Ramen-Lab.com
Experience the Traditional Flavors of Spain
New & Noteworthy Mighty Quinn’s Smoked Veggie Burger ONGOING THROUGH END OF APRIL Mighty Quinn’s pit master Hugh Mangum has created a smoked veggie burger. The six-ounce patty is made with smoked vegetables, brown rice, and beans, and dressed with chili mayo, pickled zucchini, and shredded lettuce. $8.95. MightyQuinnsBBQ.com All Mighty Quinn’s locations
Hester Street Fair Opens for New Season ONGOING THROUGH OCTOBER The Lower East Side outdoor fair opens on April 15. Crafts and food vendors abound, including Macaron Parlour, Gordo’s Cantina, Osaka Grub, La Newyorkina, Cheeky Sandwiches, and more. HesterStreetFair.com
Open Space Gallery 355A Bowery (between East Third & East Fourth streets) East Village
TAP & TAPAS BENEFIT FOR HARLEM DANCE SCHOOL MONDAY, APRIL 24 The nonprofit Groove With Me, which provides free dance training to 400 girls in East Harlem, is holding a benefit called Tap and Tapas. The event features 400 small plates prepared by local chefs: Tiffany Minter of The Cecil, Bill McDaniel of The Mermaid Inn, April Bloomfield of The Spotted Pig, Becky Flammino of Beauty & Essex, and more. 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. $175 and up per person. Eventbrite.com (search “Tap & Tapas”) Studio 450 450 W. 31st St. (between Ninth & 10th avenues) Midtown West
TRAILBLAZING FRENCH WINES AT THE FRENCH INSTITUTE MONDAY, APRIL 24 Wine Enthusiast senior editor Lauren Buzzeo will lead a tasting class on adventurous new French vintners. The class will showcase nine wines and will include breads, cheeses, and charcuterie. $95 to $115 per person. FIAF.org Le Skyroom French Institute Alliance Française 22 E. 60th St. (between Park & Madison avenues) Upper East Side
Hester Street Fair Hester & Essex streets Lower East Side
Walk into Meson Sevilla, the perfect spot for anyone looking for a taste of Spain and authentic Spanish tapas in the Big Apple. Traditionally, eating tapas is a social past-time. With the largest tapas menu in NYC, Meson Sevilla can satisfy everyone’s appetite.
Meson Sevilla Restaurant
WE HAVE THE LARGEST TAPAS MENU IN NYC!
344 West 46th St. (btw 8th & 9th ave.) mesonsevilla.com 212-262-5890
COURTESY OF MAY WAH
Queens International Night Market Returns ONGOING THROUGH OCTOBER The weekend night market returns to Queens, with a diverse range of vendors selling Burmese palatas, Romanian chimney cakes, Nigerian jollof rice, Indonesian tahu magelang (rice cake dish), Puerto Rican mofongo, Peruvian chocolate, and more. Sneak preview events on April 22 and 29 will allow guests to sample eats before the market opens to the public on May 6. Previews: $5 per person, free for children. QueensNightMarket.com New York Hall of Science Flushing Meadows Corona Park 47-01 111th St. Queens
Compiled by Annie Wu
MAY WAH VEGAN BBQ COOKOUT SATURDAY, MAY 6 & SUNDAY, MAY 7 May Wah, a vegan supermarket known for its imitation meat products is celebrating its 22nd anniversary with a vegan barbecue cookout. There will be free tastings of over 20 different products, such as vegan burgers, bacon strips, hot dogs, and more. Noon to 6 p.m. MayWahNYC.com May Wah 213 Hester St. (between Centre & Baxter streets) Chinatown
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April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES
Fabulous conversations with fabulous people
We’re talking with:
Kate Brashares CHANNALY PHILIPP After getting a classics degree at Cambridge University, Kate Brashares worked in the finance sector in Russia before moving to New York City in 2000 for business school. She hadn’t meant to stay in the United States, but as she was getting ready to move back to the United Kingdom, she met her future husband. Three kids and 17 years later, she is very much rooted here. “They make fun of my accent now,” she said of family and friends back home. After some years in the corporate world, she made the move to nonprofit, first to a charter school network, then to Edible Schoolyard NYC, an organization that integrates hands-on gardening and cooking lessons for children at partner public schools in the city. Call it seed-to-table education, if you will. “I’ve always been passionate about food,” Brashares said. “Through working here, my love of gardening has really blossomed and taken off, and now I have a garden at my home in New Jersey. I’ve always loved cooking, and now I’m a pretty crazy gardener as well.” I sat down with Brashares in the Edible Schoolyard greenhouse at P.S./M.S. 7 in East Harlem—a little green haven in the middle of a gray urban jungle—to find out what makes the children tick, and what makes her a crazy gardener. The Epoch Times: You’re a crazy gardener? How so? Kate Brashares: The thing that is so amazing about gardening is, you can’t just do it and then leave it. It requires permanent care. It’s sort of an ongoing thing and you’re always learning. I did a Master Gardener program. I am by no means an expert. I am not even on the path to being an expert, but I really enjoy being a gardener. The Epoch Times: What’s one thing about your garden that gives you great joy, and another that gives you great grief? Ms. Brashares: This is such an amazing time of year because things are just starting to come up. I find it so magical every spring when things start to grow. It’s just incredible. At the moment, I have
Occupation:
Executive director, Edible Schoolyard NYC
Lives in:
Montclair, N.J.
From:
London
a peach tree in my garden, and it’s just starting to blossom. It has the most gorgeous pink buds. The thing that’s giving me grief at the moment ... I live in Montclair, New Jersey, and the back garden is completely fenced, but in the front, we have deer come through. I have tulips planted in the bed in the front and [the deer] are surgically, precisely just eating the tulips, munching the tulips down to the ground. ... I should know by now not to plant tulips. The Epoch Times: What do you find evokes joy and wonder for the children at the schools where Edible Schoolyard works? Ms. Brashares: I think there is still that magic ... in planting something from seed and seeing it grow into something you can eat, or something you can smell, or something you can taste—it’s incredible. For the kids, I think it is really special and magical. One of the other things we see is that when you taste something that’s been grown in the garden, it just tastes different, and it’s cool to see kids try new things. Same thing in our cooking classes; kids will try things that they’ve never had before. Seeing the pride, the joy, the teamwork in making something together—for the kids, it’s a pretty special experience.
NANCY BOROWICK
A student cares for the garden.
The Epoch Times: What plants are a hit with the children? Ms. Brashares: One thing the kids love is asparagus, which is one of the first things that grows. The way it grows is cool because the stems poke up through the soil. We’ve used it in a pesto pasta dish, or in a salad, sautéed or not cooked. We have chickens at our Brooklyn school so they do egg dishes. We have amazing strawberries, which we use in a “plant parts” salad in the summer. It has seeds, leaves, stems, and roots of [different] plants, so that’s really fun. The Epoch Times: Are there more polarizing vegetables or plants? Ms. Brashares: One of the things we find is that if kids grow it themselves, they will try it. Some of the kids’ favorite things are bitter. A big favorite at our school in Brooklyn is a herb [pronounced
the British way] called lemon sorrel, which is very tart, and kids love it. I’m thinking sour candy. That’s always a big hit. They’re amazing, brave tasters. We have something like a 99 percent tasting rate, so almost all the kids try everything. And even if they don’t like it, they will try it. We’ve seen changes in the way kids are eating; they eat more salad, more vegetables. Beyond that, there are a lot of socio-emotional impacts based on the way we’re doing this type of education—it’s hands-on, it’s a lot of teamwork, there’s a lot of communication, there’s a lot of pride.
Kate Brashares in the greenhouse at P.S./M.S. 7 in East Harlem.
The Epoch Times: What kinds of dishes do the children make? Ms. Brashares: We do a different recipe every month typically. Seasonal as much as possible, local things that we’ve grown there. It’s a bit more challenging in the winter, so we work with storage crops. We might do soups. We did a harvest soup, sancocho, a Dominican recipe. At the moment, they’re making Three Sisters empanadas— Three Sisters is a Native American companion planting system we do in the garden—with corn, beans, and squash. We will sometimes do egg recipes, and whole-grain pizzas. At the end, they sit and eat the food they prepared together. The Epoch Times: What are you looking forward to at your Spring Benefit on April 24? Ms. Brashares: It’s a really amazing event. We have 20 or so chefs, curated by David Chang. Each chef cooks for about two tables, for 20 people. It’s a sit-down dinner. ... It’s like a fun dinner party, it’s not like a corporate event. And we do a live auction of priceless culinary experiences. We have things like a dinner with Michael Solomonov in the Bon Appétit test kitchen. April Bloomfield is doing something for us. We have a super cool item, where we’re getting a bunch of restaurants that are really hard to get reservations for, called Skip the Line. It allows you to get a reservation at restaurants that don’t take reservations. We’re working on a few other secret items. Interview has been edited for brevity and clarity
TOM MOORE
Easter Treat CHANNALY PHILIPP This charming Classic Easter Basket from chocolatier L.A. Burdick looks like something author and illustrator Beatrix Potter might take a liking to. There’s the requisite hollow chocolate bunny, while L.A. Burdick’s famous chocolate mice bonbons yield the spotlight for cute white chocolate bunnies with toasted almond ears. They are filled with hazelnut gianduja, infused with a hint of orange. The eggs are likely the tastiest part of this basket. Hand-painted polka dot Crispy Eggs, the size of regular chicken eggs, contain a delicious surprise. Rather than being hollow, they are filled with a delightfully crispy hazelnut and chocolate filling. The white egg hides a filling of orange-pistachio dark chocolate, while the milk chocolate egg holds a rich hazelnut-mocha dark chocolate. Another three little chocolate praline eggs pack some inviting flavors into bite-size packages, including a surprisingly fun banana honey caramel. The basket also includes three chocolate cookies with royal icing. True to the L.A. Burdick tradition, there are no artificial ingredients, additives, or coloring. (Note: Plants in image are not included.) Ships March 29 to April 21. $42, BurdickChocolate.com
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa L.A. Burdick’s Classic Easter Basket.
157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
2nd Location
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April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY ANNIE WU/THE EPOCH TIMES
Southern Charm Richmond, Virginia, Is a Culinary Hot Spot With Rich History
R
ICHMOND, Va.—It feels decidedly Southern in this city. Maybe it’s the warmth behind simple interactions with strangers, the stately Colonial Revival architecture, or the historic sites bearing witness to the Civil War and the civil rights movement. History runs through Richmond, about a twohour drive south of Washington, D.C. It was here that Founding Father Patrick Henry gave his “Give Me Liberty or Give Me Death” speech—at St. John’s Church located in the Church Hill neighborhood. The area is now a real estate hot spot known for its 18th-century historic homes, streets lined with gas lanterns, and trendy eateries. The city, strategically located on the James River, was chosen to become the capital of the Confederate states in 1861. By the time the Civil War came to an end, a large portion of Richmond was destroyed. Remnants of that history stand today. All around Richmond, you’ll see statues of Confeder-
ate generals. Museum exhibits document the Civil War in detail. It is an eye-opening experience to be up close with some of the nation’s most painful memories. The past comes into focus, offering visitors opportunities for reflection.
Saison’s fried chicken biscuit is a little spicy, a little sweet.
T R AV E LS
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE RAMEN Tasty dishes and amazing appetizers!
Tabata 3 Tabata 1 646-657-0257 212-465-2418 601 6th Ave, 557 8th Ave, New York, NY 10018 New York, NY 10011 Tabata 2 212-290-7691 540 9th Ave, New York, NY 10018 Tabatanewyork.com
A Culinary Hot Spot About five years ago, the city started to become a thriving hub of culinary creativity. Every year since 2014, the Fire, Flour & Fork festival convenes the South’s top chefs, food and beverage producers, cookbook authors, and food academics for a four-day celebration of Southern cuisine and history. Last year’s festival included a biscuit tasting event, with different spots making their own versions of that quintessential Southern baked treat: one with sharp cheddar and served with sage and honey-infused butter; another that conjured New York deli flavors with cream cheese and chives, stuffed with a salmon sausage. Chefs are imagining a new style of Southern cooking, one that combines influences from different cuisines that make up America’s cultural fabric, while highlighting local heirloom ingredients. During the festival, chef Travis Grimes of Husk, the celebrated Charleston restaurant founded by chef Sean Brock, partnered with the chefs at Richmond’s Southbound restaurant to create Asian-inflected takes on familiar Southern dishes. The mashups include fried chicken drizzled with honey and numbing Sichuan peppercorns; roasted pork belly with an apple-miso glaze; and Thai-style shrimp and grits, with griddled shrimp, peanuts, a sweet potato curry that packs enough heat to make your lips buzz, and an old red rice variety with a texture similar to barley. It’s an exciting time to explore and eat in Richmond. To make the most of your time, I recommend you venture to these attractions and eateries:
WHERE TO VISIT
Chefs are imagining a new style of Southern cooking inspired by different cuisines.
Colin Hagendorf sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Black History Museum & Cultural Center of Virginia Located in the historic neighborhood of Jackson Ward, the newly relocated Black History Museum covers a lot of local history in a compact space. The exhibits are a sobering look at the black American experience: a slave collar used during a slave auction, an installation of a lunch counter attended by protesters during the civil rights movement, and a digital photo archive documenting how Virginia stalled on integrating public schools after the Brown v. Education Supreme Court ruling. But history continues to be written: 1990 saw Virginia’s first black elected governor, and Loretta Lynch became the first black woman to serve as the U.S. attorney general in 2015. BlackHistoryMuseum.org
NY Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON:
Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
Virginia Museum of Fine Arts This three-level art museum boasts a large collection of Fabergé jewelry, including several stunning imperial Easter eggs decked in gorgeously colored gems. An equally impressive exhibit of English silver—from candelabras to sauce boats— alongside a pair of rare Japanese wooden Bodhisattva sculptures riding on divine creatures, and other treasures, demonstrate exquisite craftsmanship. VMFA.Museum Shopping in Carytown This charming neighborhood is lined with boutique shops selling all sorts of wares, from quirky gift items to vintage clothing to Virginia peanuts in an assortment of flavors.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Mama J’s Kitchen Stop by Mama J’s Kitchen for satisfying soul food served in homey environs. The fried catfish is flaky and juicy, and comes with a perfectly executed cornbread muffin ($6). MamaJsKitchen.com Perly’s Once neglected and overlooked, downtown is getting a revival thanks to trendy eateries like Perly’s popping up. The retro-style Jewish deli—complete with wooden two-seat booths and a lunch counter—smokes and cures its own meats and fish, including some seriously good corned beef that gives classic New York joints a run for their money. Facebook.com/PerlysRichmond Laura Lee’s In Richmond, the suburbs are also home to great neighborhood restaurants serving Southern cuisine with a twist. Cross the James River into the Forest Hill suburb and you’ll find Laura Lee’s, where a Cajun classic like dirty rice is given a Chinese flair. The rice is fried, mixed with bits of chicken liver, bok choy, and edamame, and drenched with a soy-mushroom broth ($8). The dessert menu has classic dishes like the Harvey Wallbanger cake, named after the cocktail. The treat is dense but tempered with orange zest and a bitter edge from the Galliano liqueur. LauraLeesRVA.com Peter Chang You would never have guessed Richmond is home to a James Beard-nominated Chinese chef known for his fiery Sichuanese cooking. Chef Peter Chang introduces dishes that are rarely seen in Sichuan restaurants in America, and handles the numbing spices deftly so that they don’t drown out the flavors of the ingredients. Especially memorable are a soup of flounder with sour cabbage, an exciting fusion of heat and pickled tartness ($8); shredded tofu skin dressed in chili oil that fully displayed the numbing power of Sichuan peppercorns ($8); and addictive dry stir-fried eggplants, conveniently shaped like french fries ($10). PeterChangRestaurant.com Blue Bee Cider After the spicy meal, soothe your palate at Blue Bee Cider, which makes crisp ciders out of apples that are native to Virginia. At the tasting room, you can sample bottles like the Mill Race Bramble, infused with local raspberries and blackberries, and the Aragon 1904, a lightly sweet blend of modern and heirloom apples. BlueBeeCider.com
The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939
Quaint historic homes in the Church Hill neighborhood.
Southbound’s griddled shrimp with sweet potato curry, red rice, brassicas, and peanuts.
ANNIE WU The view from Libby Hill Park in Richmond, Va., overlooking the James River.
Rockfish with green lentils, Swiss chard, bacon, and sweet and sour sauce at the restaurant Laura Lee’s.
Stately architecture near the Virginia Capitol.
The trip was arranged by Richmond Region Tourism. For more information, see VisitRichmondVA.com
D7
@EpochTaste
April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PHIL MANSFIELD/THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA VIA AP
For a Summer Cocktail, Look No Further Than a Ginnie Meyer A s we ease on down that road toward Dark & Stormy and Moscow Mule popping up spring, you might start dipping your on happy hour menus. Ginger beer, which is toe back into outdoor living. It starts stronger in flavor than the familiar ginger ale, with two minutes of staring into the sunshine is having a moment right now. This recipe capibefore you huddle back under the blanket, talizes on the availability of high-quality and, but before you know it, you’ll be reading your if you’re lucky, local versions of this lightly carnewspaper al fresco with a cocktail in hand. bonated, slightly spicy mixer. That moment requires planning, so it’s time Speaking of ginger, if you’ve never tried canto talk spring cocktails. Sure, you could go gedied ginger, this is a good excuse to grab some neric with your old standby, but even small moat the store to use as a garnish. CIA beverage inments deserve to be celebrated with something structor John Fischer created this cocktail and a little extraordinary. says, “Candied ginger is so tasty and so much Let our Ginnie Meyer be your first taste of fun because of its heat. My friends and I always spring. The drink is a refreshing blend of try to steal the garnish from each other’s gin, freshly squeezed Meyer lemon glasses.” juice, and ginger beer. It’s a slow The candying process adds plenty wave goodbye to citrus season of sweetness to offset the spicy It’s a slow wave as the sun breaks through the qualities of this flavorful root. goodbye to citrus clouds. If you have leftover, chop it season as the sun Meyer lemons are sweeter than up and add to spice cookies breaks through everyday lemons, with a flavor or sprinkle on top of a baked the clouds. that might remind you of a slightly pound cake. tart orange. They are also usually a The recipe calls for simple brighter, more vibrant shade of yellow syrup. In a small saucepan, comthat looks beautiful when sliced for garnish. bine equal parts water and sugar, and You should be able to find them at most grocery bring to a boil until the sugar is fully dissolved. stores during the winter and early spring, but One cup of water and one cup of sugar is a conyou can substitute equal parts lemon and orvenient quantity to keep on hand. The syrup ange juice, if you can’t. can be flavored by steeping ingredients like Like all citrus, Meyer lemons can be squeezed herbs and vanilla beans, or by blending with at the peak of their season and their juice frozen fresh fruit juice or puree (like raspberries)—befor later. Portion 1/2 cup of juice into small zipcause soon enough, you’re going to need a sumtop bags to have enough for four cocktails, and mer cocktail. sip all year long. You may have noticed old favorites like the From The Associated Press
RECIPE GINNIE MEYER Total Time: 5 minutes Serves 1 • 1 ounce freshly squeezed Meyer lemon juice • 1/2 ounce simple syrup • 2 ounces gin • 2 to 4 ounces ginger beer • 1 piece of candied ginger • 1 mint sprig, for garnish (optional)
DIRECTIONS Pour the lemon juice, simple syrup, and gin into a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake the cocktail like you mean it and strain over fresh ice in a Collins (tall) glass. Top with the ginger beer and garnish with a piece of candied ginger stuck on a toothpick. Top with mint, if desired. Chef’s Note: If you don’t have bar measuring tools, you can use a tablespoon measure—1 ounce is equal to 2 tablespoons. Recipe by The Culinary Institute of America
Meyer lemons are sweeter than everyday lemons.
SARA MOULTON VIA AP
Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “HomeCooking 101.” From The Associated Press
Ceviche, Our signature dish
SHUTTERSTOCK
This Strawberry Season, Make a Dessert Inspired by Cannoli I developed this recipe to take advantage of strawberry season. Some of you are naturally scratching your head. “Strawberry season? Name a time of year that isn’t strawberry season.” And it certainly can feel that way. Strawberries are grown in all 50 states and, depending on the state, the season can be as short as a few weeks or as long as 11 months. But the heart of the strawberry season—the sweet spot of the year when you can count on finding juicy, delicious and locally grown strawberries at your supermarket or farmer’s market—is April through June. Now that the goodies are at hand, here are a few tips about how to buy and store them. Start by selecting the specimens that are unblemished and smooth and, most important, bright red from tip to tail. Then, pick one up and take a whiff. It should smell strongly of ... strawberries. When you get the winners home, put a layer of them in a shallow bowl lined with paper towels. Cover and store the berries in the refrigerator and try to eat them within a few days. (Local strawberries are more perishable than the commercial varieties.) Do not wash or hull the berries until right before you’re ready to eat them. When the moment arrives, simply put the strawberries in a colander and run some cold water over them. Then lift them out and let them drain on paper towels. What makes this recipe Italian? The filling used to stuff these berries is a twist on the mixture of ricotta cheese, candied orange, and chocolate that’s piped into cannoli. The difference is that I substituted Neufchatel for ricotta because it’s tangier and more assertive and teams up better with the berries. This dessert is a simple and elegant way to end a meal now that spring has sprung—and it only takes 20 minutes to make. You can even prep the strawberries and stuffing ahead. But don’t stuff them until the last minute. You don’t want the sugar in the filling to make the berries soggy.
Pure Peruvian Cuisine
Happy Hour Mon-Fri 4pm- 7pm Free Peruvian chicken wings after 2nd drink
Live Entertainment 7pm-10pm, every Friday
718-224-8505 • 39-32 Bell Blvd, Bayside, NY 11361 www.piurarestaurant.com
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
RECIPE ITALIAN STUFFED STRAWBERRIES Total Time: 20 minutes Serves 4 • 1 pound strawberries • 2 ounces Neufchatel or one-third less-fat cream cheese (about 1/4 cup), softened • 1 teaspoon sugar • 3/4 ounce bittersweet or semi-sweet chocolate, finely chopped • 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
DIRECTIONS Cut each strawberry in half lengthwise through the cap. Arrange
the strawberry halves, cut side up, on a serving plate. Trim a thin slice from the bottom if necessary to make each half sit evenly. Using a small spoon or melon baller, scoop out a hollow in the center of the cut side of each strawberry.
Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
Reserve the strawberry scraps for another use (or eat them). In a small bowl combine the cream cheese and sugar; stir in the chocolate and orange zest. Divide the cream cheese mixture into the hollows in the strawberries and serve. Chef’s Note: You can prepare the strawberries and the filling several hours ahead of time but do not stuff the strawberries until just before serving. Recipe by Sara Moulton
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
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@EpochTaste
April 14–20, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC PHOTOS COURTESY OF DONNA MARGHERITA
The Donna Margherita pizza.
Chef and owner Rosanna Di Michele.
Donna Margherita Blooms on the Upper East Side
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Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
rtisanal pizza and wine bar Donna Margherita—named after the daisy flower—is a new 30-seat, bi-level restaurant on the Upper East Side. Chef and owner Rosanna Di Michele grew up helping her parents in their family pizzeria in Abruzzo, Italy. The pizza is Neapolitan, with offerings such as the Vedova Bianca (mozzarella, ricotta, radicchio, and walnuts) and the signature Donna Margherita (buffalo mozzarella, tomato “filetto,” and pecorino). The menu also offers classics from Melanzane Alla Parmigiana (eggplant mozzarella and tomato sauce) to Penne Arrabbiata O Al Pomodoro (penne in a spicy homemade tomato sauce). Some dishes come from Di Michele’s childhood, including the Lasagne della Nonna, part of a Sunday family ritual. Her mother would make the ragu and her grandmother would make the pasta. “I would assist them by grat-
ing the cheese. When I was 8 years old, I began to make my first lasagna under the supervision of my mother and grandmother, and it remains to this day an everlasting memory,” Di Michele said. Prior to opening her restaurant, Di Michele was working as a private chef and an ambassador for culinary traditions and products from the Abruzzo region. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner. Takeout, delivery, and catering available.
Donna Margherita
1304A Second Ave. (between East 68th & East 69th streets) Upper East Side 212-772-1169 DonnaMargheritaNY.com
Motel Morris Opens in Chelsea QUENTIN BACON
Visually recalling the motel culture of the 1960s, Motel Morris pays homage to the American experience of family road trips and mealtime stopovers along the interstate. The Chelsea restaurant is the second project for owners Brett Nidel, Sam Nidel, Tamara McCarthy, and Matt Mogil, who also collectively operate the casual café, The Commons Chelsea. Executive chef Bill McDaniel (formerly of The Red Cat and The Mermaid Inn) offers daily dishes that recall mid-century regional American classics—such as Chicken Thigh Paprikash on Tuesdays, Meatloaf and Mash on Thursdays, and Beef Cheek Stroganoff on Saturdays. The menu reflects global influences, from the Sweet Chili Charred Octopus, with Chinese sausage, fingerlings, scallions, white bean purée, and preserved lemon, to the Everything Bagel Crusted Tuna, with buttered scallion basmati, mint-cilantro pesto, and grilled avocado. Open Tuesday through Sunday for dinner. Lunch and weekend brunch service to come.
Motel Morris
132 Seventh Ave. (at West 18th Street) Chelsea 646-880-4810 MotelMorris.com
The Back Room Reopens as Bevy The Back Room, located south of Central Park, is reopening as Bevy, with a remodeled 80seat space and a new American menu by chef de cuisine Chad Brauze (formerly of Rotisserie Georgette). “Reflective of our namesake, the driving force behind Bevy is chefs and farmers coming together toward a common goal of ingredients harmonizing on the plate. We are thrilled that the new space feels both familiar and special, which mirrors exactly what we are doing in the kitchen,” Brauze said in a press release. Menu highlights include Seared Diver Scal-
lops with Romesco and watercress, and Einkorn Risotto with mint, favas, asparagus, Vin Jaune wine, and morel cream. The wine list features varietals from small producers in the United States and Europe. Open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner from 5:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Bevy
153 W. 57th St., Third Floor (between Sixth and Seventh avenues) Central Park South 212-897-2188 BevyNYC.com
Nobletree Coffee Opens First Retail Shop
212-594-4963
Nobletree Coffee has opened its first retail shop, located underneath 4 World Trade Center. The beans are roasted on the premises. Nobletree, which operates two farms in Brazil, offers cold brew and nitro cold brew on tap, as well as pastries and sandwiches from Padoca Bakery. Open daily.
Nobletree
185 Greenwich St. (between Fulton & Cortlandt streets) Located below Eataly at 4 World Trade Center, Balcony Level C1, Financial District NobletreeCoffee.com
10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com
Open 24 hours Compiled by Channaly Philipp