Epoch Taste 3-17-2017

DONAL SKEHAN

D1 March 17–23, 2017

Slainte!

Here’s to Irish Pubs Everywhere on D3

www.EpochTaste.com

Veggie Summer Rolls With Vietnamese Dipping Sauce.

See recipe on D3.

Pressing the Reset Button How Irish food personality Donal Skehan went from burnout mode to a commitment to good health

JAMES BYRNE

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t the ripe young age of 27, after two years in a pop band and eight years in his food career, Donal Skehan hit a wall. Or rather, at that moment— feeling overworked, in the humid heat at a food market in Hanoi, Vietnam— he found a wall to hold himself up, to keep from falling.

For years, he’d been burning the candle at both ends. The experience in Vietnam landed him in a hospital, where he had time to take stock of his situation, and what landed him there.

An Irish food writer, photographer, and TV presenter, Skehan, now 30, is a relatively new face to American television viewers, as the cohost of “Food Network Star Kids” with actress Tia Mowry. But he is already well-known on the other side of the pond.

Since he started a food blog, his career has been one nonstop adventure fueled by nonstop work—much of which has taken him to different corners of the globe to film

television shows. He has won over nonnas in Italy with his tiramisu; tried snails in Vietnam; and traveled to Sweden, north of the Arctic Circle, to make Christmas rice pudding.

“I started when I was 21. I just got catapulted into this world,” he said. “Very few moments did I actually stop and decide what I wanted to do next and how I wanted to live life—and I think everyone comes to that point at some point in their life. I think for me, I just had to stop; I came to a stop.” Still, Skehan views the hospital incident in a positive light.

“I got the opportunity to go ‘OK, I don’t want to jeopardize what I do and not be able to enjoy what I do if I’m not looking after myself.’”

The result was a turning point in his commitment to his health. His cookbook “Fresh: Simple, Delicious Recipes to Make You Feel Energized” ($24.95) represents a reset in his priorities, “to try to make sure that I’m keeping balanced and stopping and smelling the roses somewhat.”

“Fresh,” published by Sterling Epicure, is actually his eighth cookbook—and though he’s Irish, don’t go looking for traditional Irish recipes in it. The closest you’ll get is probably his vegetarian Sweet Potato Shepherdless Pie.

See Skehan on D2

I started when I was 21. I just got catapulted into this world.

Donal Skehan, food writer and TV presenter

SHUTTERSTOCK

By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

Skehan’s time in Vietnam, during which he ended up in a hospital, was a turning point.

Donal Skehan.

D2

@EpochTaste

March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com

Pressing the

DONAL SKEHAN

Reset Button Skehan continued from D1 The book is divided into a variety of recipes for breakfast, lunch on the go, quick suppers, and healthy snacks—and the photography, by Skehan himself, is mouthwatering.

It is a cookbook for busy people, with vegetables and grains at the forefront.

“Fresh” is refreshing in that it’s ultimately very accessible, and it’s written in Skehan’s funny and encouraging voice. As the introduction to a chapter called “Food on the Go,” Skehan writes, “This chapter is for all of you who start crying into your lunch boxes around 1:00 p.m., fearful that this is all life might ever amount to. I guess you could call this the SOS chapter!”

A recipe for Harissa Baked Eggs riffs off shakshuka and is a cinch to prepare (unless you’re like me and get chili in your eye). The spicy kick perfectly complements the eggs and tomatoes. For another breakfast, Skehan pulverizes oats into flour and uses it to make pancakes, topped with blueberries, honey, yogurt, and bee pollen. It’s a delicious, hearty dish to eat virtuously; my family declared these the best pancakes they’ve ever had.

Unlike many cookbooks that focus on healthy eating, Skehan devotes a substantial chapter to sweet treats—some, like the Carrot and Zucchini Cake, topped with a fragrant rosemary and orange crème fraîche, manage to sneak in vegetables. Others, like the green apple sorbet and the roasted rhubarb, are simplicity itself.

The onus is always on taste. For example, Skehan uses coconut oil here and there, not so much for its reputed health properties, but because its taste works well with the other ingredients.

There are bold flavors aplenty—a chapter at the end is devoted to what he calls “fla-

A recipe for Harissa Baked Eggs riffs off shakshuka and is a cinch to prepare.

Harissa Baked Eggs.

Find the recipe on EpochTaste.com

vor makers,” items that elevate a dish, like spiced yogurts, pistachio dukkah, and chickpeas roasted with a sprinkling of cayenne, smoked paprika, and cumin.

In “Fresh,” you can clearly see the influence of his travels, including his adventures in Vietnam, a place that gives him continued culinary inspiration.

“I’m just blown away by the street food.

What’s most fascinating is that you meet these street vendors and all they do is one dish,” he said. “You could meet a lady who’s been doing this one dish for 40 years. You’d be hard pressed to find chefs in any part of the world, in any restaurant, that have cooked one dish every single day.

“I would say, as a food ethos, I love the idea of earning your craft and doing it over and over until you have this perfect dish.”

On “Grandma’s Boy,” his favorite of the TV series he has worked on for Fox International, Skehan traveled around Italy, cooking with grandmothers. “Every town I would go to, I would meet the grandmother who was the best cook in the town,” he said.

Comparing grandmothers’ cooking sounds like a dangerous endeavor. He said it was difficult, adding that other

grandmothers would come in and pick at what the chosen grandma was doing, saying, “I wouldn’t have done it this way, I wouldn’t have done it that way.”

“That was a really true experience. Again, like those street food vendors, [there was] just something that is so inherent in what cooking should be: It’s about the family,” he said.

For him, as simple as it may be, it’s his mother’s roast chicken—which she prepares with all the trimmings for Sunday dinners— that he always remembers.

“There is so much passion that comes with food memories. If I ask you what was your favorite childhood meal that your parents cooked, instantly you go back to that place, and that’s where food comes alive for me.”

A few months ago, Skehan left Dublin for Los Angeles, settling in with his wife Sofie, whom he works with, and his border collie Max. Family, too, provides grounding and support. And in true Angeleno fashion, he’s embraced hot yoga.

His workload is still the same, mind you— but now he meditates and exercises. “Things I might have kind of scoffed at, these are things that are now helping me and allowing me to approach that life balance. ... I make time to do things that are going to restore.”

RECIPE HARISSA BAKED EGGS

devour with warm toasted slices of Super Seed Bread for dipping.

Serves 4

Super Seed Bread

Whether for brunch, lunch, or dinner, these baked eggs are a speedy way to provide booming flavor and a dose of healthy comfort food. A basic tomato sauce is the hallmark of any good home cook, and here it is put to good use to coddle eggs until their yolks are runny and dreamy. With an injection of dark heat from the harissa paste, for me, this is all too often the answer to the question: “What’s for dinner?”

• • • • • • • • • • •

1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large onion, very finely diced 2 garlic cloves, very finely chopped 1 red chili, finely diced 1 teaspoon smoked paprika 3 t0 4 heaping tablespoons harissa paste Two 14-oz cans plum tomatoes Large handful of cilantro, roughly chopped 4 large free-range eggs Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper Toasted Super Seed Bread slices (see below), to serve

DIRECTIONS 1. Heat the olive oil in a deep ovenproof frying pan over medium heat and fry the onion for 6 to 8 minutes, or until softened. Add the garlic, chili, and paprika, and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until the mixture becomes aromatic.

2. Stir in the harissa paste and tomatoes, pressing the tomatoes down with the back of a fork until you are left with a smoothish consistency. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes at a gentle simmer, until the sauce thickens and intensifies. Season to taste. Heat the oven to 400 F (350 F fan).

3. Stir in the cilantro, reserving a few leaves to garnish. If you want an even smoother sauce, transfer it to a food processor and blend until it is velvety, and then return the sauce to the pan (or to individual ovenproof dishes).

4. Use the back of a ladle to make 4 wells in the sauce and crack an egg into each one.

Bake in the oven for 10 minutes, until the eggs are just set, but the yolks are still runny.

Sprinkle the reserved cilantro on top and

Eating more healthily often means cutting out creature comforts like white bread, but I still crave things like toast piled with scrambled eggs or a quick snack of bread with nut butter. This bread is the real deal—thinly sliced and toasted, it’s the perfect vehicle for almost any topping.

Makes 1 loaf • • • • • • • • • •

1/2 cup pumpkin seeds 1/2 cup sunflower seeds 1/3 cup sesame seeds 9 ounces rye flour 1 heaping cup whole wheat flour 2 1/2 teaspoons quick-rising active dry yeast 1 1/2 cups warm water 2 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon sea salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. Toast the seeds in a large, dry frying pan over medium-high heat, until golden brown.

Allow the seeds to cool and then transfer them to a large mixing bowl.

2. Add both flours and the yeast, and stir with a wooden spoon to combine. Make a well in the center of the bowl.

3. Measure the warm water into a mixing bowl, and then whisk in the honey, salt, and olive oil until dissolved.

Pour this into the well of dry ingredients and mix them together until you are left with a firm dough. Turn the dough out onto a clean surface and roughly knead it for a minute or so. Transfer the dough back to the bowl.

Cover it with plastic wrap and let it rise for 1 hour, although the dough won’t change dramatically in size in that time.

4. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 400 F (350 F fan) and line a 2-pound loaf pan with parchment paper.

5. Turn the dough out and shape it into a loaf. Place it in the lined pan and bake the bread for 40 minutes, or until it is light brown.

Remove the bread from the oven and allow it to cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.

Reprinted from “Fresh” by Donal Skehan.

Published by Sterling Epicure.

D3

@EpochTaste

March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com

RECIPE VEGGIE SUMMER ROLLS WITH VIETNAMESE DIPPING SAUCE Serves 4 Most large supermarkets now stock Asian foods such as rice paper wrappers. Keep them as a pantry ingredient, as they are great for a last-minute starter or snack—all you do is soak them in hot water and fill them with your favorite ingredients. This recipe is a traditional one, but you can treat rice paper wrappers as the vehicle for a whole host of healthy ingredients. Fill them with a selection of finely sliced greens, avocado, red cabbage, nuts and seeds, hot smoked salmon, or beans. The dipping sauce is an essential part of enjoying Vietnamese summer rolls, offering that subtle combination of salty, sweet, and spicy. I’ve added extra herbs, which isn’t necessarily traditional, but adds an extra layer to this wonderful sauce.

• 36 cooked Asian tiger shrimp, peeled • 12 rice paper wrappers (8-inch round) or iceberg lettuce leaves • Handful of cilantro leaves • Handful of mint leaves • Handful of sweet Thai basil • 1 cucumber, julienned • 1 carrot, julienned • 2 scallions, julienned For the Sauce (Nuoc Cham) • 3 tablespoons lime juice • 1 tablespoon superfine sugar • 2 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce (nam pla) • 1 small garlic clove, finely minced • 1 to 2 small Thai chilies, thinly sliced • Handful of cilantro leaves, finely chopped • Handful of mint leaves, finely chopped

DIRECTIONS 1. First make the dipping sauce: Mix the lime juice, sugar, and 1/2 cup water in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Add the fish sauce,

garlic, and chilies.

Taste and adjust the flavors, if necessary, to balance out the sweet and sour. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room temperature until needed.

(or prepare according to the instructions on the package).

4. Drain the wrappers on a clean dish towel and lay a few cilantro leaves along the middle of each one.

Add a few leaves of mint and sweet Thai basil. Arrange 3 shrimp on each one and then scatter the cucumber, carrot, and scallions on top. Make sure you don’t overfill the papers, as they may split if you do.

2. Devein the shrimp, if necessary. If there is a black line down the back of DONAL SKEHAN the shrimp, use a small, sharp knife to make a shallow cut along the length 5. Fold in the sides of each rice paper, then roll of the line and carefully lift it out using the tip them up to make a neat cylindrical shape. Just of the knife. before serving, mix the cilantro and mint into the dipping sauce and serve immediately.

3. Place the rice paper wrappers in a heatproof bowl and cover them with hot water. Let them Reprinted from “Fresh” by Donal Skehan. soak for 5 minutes, until they’re soft and pliable Published by Sterling Epicure.

Slainte! Here’s to Irish Pubs Everywhere COURTESY OF TULLAMORE D.E.W.

By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff In the history of the world, there are countries that will be remembered for their armies and empires. And then there’s Ireland, with its exports of hospitality, Guinness, and Irish whiskey, that have quietly reached the far corners of the earth—through the Irish pub.

Heading to Mount Everest? Kathmandu in Nepal has three Irish pubs. There’s one in La Paz, Bolivia, that claims to be the world’s highest-altitude Irish pub, and it gets a little competition from one in Cusco, Peru, near Machu Picchu, which claims to be the highest-altitude, Irish-owned Irish pub.

Why are there Irish pubs all over the world?

That question fascinated Irish-born and -raised Tim Herlily, the U.S. brand ambassador for Irish whiskey Tullamore D.E.W. So last year, he embarked on an epic Irish pub tour across America, visiting 50 states in 30 days looking for the best Irish pubs in the country.

“I get that there’s only 5 million people on the island of Ireland,” he said. “We’re not a big population. There’s 40 million people that claim Irish ancestry in the U.S. and 80 million worldwide.”

“We’re kind of a nation of publicans in a way,” he said. “If you go to a town or village [in Ireland], the amount of pubs is incredible.” What pubs are today really started off as hospitality in somebody’s living room, he suggests. “We have that hospitable nature. It’s in our DNA.” When the Irish emigrated, they took not only that hospitable nature, but also their brewing and distilling skills.

There’s Irish whiskey, for example. Its first recorded mention predates that of Scotch by 500 years. “So the joke is that with 500 years more practice, you’re going to be better,” Herlily said.

Irish whiskey, Herlily explained, is triple distilled, accounting for its smooth and approachable nature. Three styles are made in Ireland: malt whiskey, where germinated barley creates a citrus flavor; delicate, sweet grain whiskey; and pot still whiskey—particular to Ireland—with a mash of malted and unmalted barley that gives it a creamy texture and spiciness. As for Tullamore D.E.W., it’s a blend of all three styles.

“As a stereotype, Irish [whiskey] would sit between bourbon and Scotch,” Herlily added, “so a lot of people will describe Irish [whiskey] and bourbon as being the gateway” to drinking Scotch and single malts.

What Makes a Great Irish Pub “There’s no pretentiousness to an Irish pub,” Herlily said. You can just as well come in for a casual drink with friends one day, then a business meeting the next.

Herlily and I were speaking at Cooper’s Craft & Kitchen in Chelsea, at the back bar. The place feels cozy and welcoming, with tables in different configurations and wooden barrels here and there. “If you dig deeper, it is an Irish pub,” Herlily said. It doesn’t bill itself as such, but it is Irish-owned.

And then there’s the element of narrowness.

“Probably you get this in New York by accident, but the nice thing about it is, it’s narrow so you can get an atmosphere—there could be five people up front and it still feels cozy,” Herlily pointed out.

The Irish pub is all about conversation. So that means there’s no television or music playing in the background. “A lot of pubs in Ireland don’t have music. Your soundtrack is the sound and noise of conversation. It’s the noise of organic atmosphere,” he said.

One of Herlily’s favorite Irish pubs in New York City is Swift Hibernian Lounge in NoHo. “It really works for conversation, but for dates as well,” he said. There are no sports games or commercials playing on screen to potentially distract you from your date. He also loves The Dead Rabbit, which, despite occupying three stories of a building in

became famous. “This was the drink of the airport and all the glitterati of the day would see this Irish coffee,” Herlily said. Finally, it was a travel journalist from the San Francisco Chronicle who featured Sheridan and his coffee, and brought the recipe to the owner of The Buena Vista.

“I always say to people, Irish coffee was made in Ireland, but made famous in San Francisco,” Herlily said.

Below, Herlily offers his recipe for making a perfect Irish coffee. Make sure to use cold heavy cream—no store-bought whipped cream, please.

And here’s a tip: You can shake the cream up in a protein blender bottle.

Herlily on his 30-day, 50-state tour of Irish pubs in the U.S. the Financial District, maintains that element of coziness. And it doesn’t hurt that it has the biggest Irish whiskey collection in all of the United States and was named the best cocktail bar in the world from 2014 to 2016. Both of these bars’ live music nights add to the lively social atmosphere.

From Sea to Shining Sea Over the course of a month last year, while Herlily looked for the best Irish pubs through all 50 states, he met pub owners, did tastings, and learned about the history and traditions of the pubs.

“For the first four days, I didn’t sleep in a bed,” he said. “Horizontal sleeping is incredibly underrated.”

One of his favorites includes The Field, in San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter. “It’s got that coziness, and there are pictures, paintings, knickknacks—[the owner] has a story behind every one of them.”

A surprise find was Reilly’s, an Irish pub log cabin in Anchorage, Alaska, that made one of the best Irish coffees he’d ever had. He walked in and recognized the bartender from a talk he gave at the annual Tales of the Cocktail festival in New Orleans about how Irish pubs are taking over the world.

In Savannah, Georgia, he visited Kevin Barry’s, where a set of eight musicians have been playing live music every night for the past 35 years. “They do Irish fare amazingly well. It was big square footage, but they were still able to have nooks and crannies and atmosphere to it,” Herlily said.

There is one pub whose aesthetics remind him of his hometown pub: Four Green Fields in Tampa, Florida, which has a thatched roof— but also palm trees out in front.

From Herlily’s estimation, Irish pubs are Irish-owned half the time, “if not skewing more toward American ownership.” And then there are a few other exceptions, one being a Scottish fellow in Portland, Oregon, who originally opened a pub as a Scottish bar, and then changed it to a Celtic bar, then finally modified it to an Irish pub because it appealed to more people.

Herlily paused for a moment, contemplating the fellow’s lot. “You have this Scottish owner who wanted nothing more than having a Scottish pub, and he was like, ‘No, it’s going to have to be Irish.’”

“There’s a friendliness to Irish people that’s translated, whether into whiskey or pubs. That hospitality makes it the world’s favorite bar,” he said.

As for the world’s biggest group of pubs—58 in total—it’s in Russia, owned by two Russians who visited a friend in Dublin and brought the concept back home.

Irish Coffee Irish coffee sure looks like Guinness, but it

comes in a tiny glass.

Herlily likes it best in a 6-ounce glass, for the balance between BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES all the ingredients.

This past January, he was enlisted to help make the world’s biggest Irish coffee, at Irish pub Fado in Chicago. It was made in an enormous Irish coffee glass with a spigot at the bottom, crafted by a company that manufactures aquarium tanks. A structural engineer was called in to make sure the floor could hold its weight. It couldn’t, so the giant glass was placed near a structural wall with added reinforcements—“so it wouldn’t land in the basement,” Herlily said.

Four kitchens and 14 burners (and much anxiety) later, there were 234 gallons, or 3,700 cups, of Irish coffee made.

Although the story of the cocktail’s creation often goes back to The Buena Vista Cafe in San Francisco, Herlily recounts an even earlier origin.

According to Herlily, it started at Foynes Airport in Ireland—now Shannon Airport—where, in the old days, every transatlantic flight to America had to stop and refuel. One Pan Am flight had to be turned back due to a storm, and the chef at the new airport restaurant, Joe Sheridan, was told to make them something warm for the cold, upset passengers. He called it Gaelic coffee and it soon

RECIPE THE PERFECT IRISH COFFEE • 1/2 parts demerara sugar • 1 1/2 parts strong brewed coffee (any premium dark roast) • 1 1/2 parts Tullamore D.E.W. Original whiskey • Lightly whipped heavy cream • Cinnamon or nutmeg, to taste

DIRECTIONS Fill a clear-stemmed glass with very hot water to preheat. Empty the glass.

Add the sugar and brewed coffee, and stir well.

Once the sugar has melted, stir in the whiskey.

Gently whip the heavy cream by shaking it in a protein shaker with a blender ball–you want a still somewhat loose, not stiff consistency.

Pour the cream over the back of a hot teaspoon to top the drink (and prevent the cream from penetrating the top of the drink).

Finally, garnish with grated nutmeg or cinnamon for a spicy finish.

Recipe courtesy of Tim Herlihy

WE’RE MORE THAN MEATS THE PLATE MIDTOWN 551 Fifth Avenue 212.972.3315

WORLD TRADE CENTER 136 Washington Street 212.608.0171

HACKENSACK One Riverside Square 201.487.1303

GREAT NECK 777 Northern Boulevard 516.498.2950

WHITE PLAINS 9 Maple Avenue 914.683.6101

MORTONS.COM

D4

@EpochTaste

March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com MADISON MCGAW MADISON MCGAW

Chef David Chang (L) and late-night talk show host Seth Meyers.

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SYLVAIN GABOURY

SATURDAY, MARCH 25 Learn how to incorporate truffles into your brunch dishes at Urbani Truffles’s cooking lab. During the class, from noon to 2 p.m., you’ll learn how to make truffled eggs mimosa, truffle crostinis, raviolo all’uovo, and a dessert course. Attendees will enjoy samples and take the recipes home. $125 per person. Urbani.com Urbani Truffles 10 West End Ave. (between West 59th & West 60th streets) Upper West Side

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TRUFFLES BRUNCH COOKING CLASS TASTE Pick AT URBANI

Chef Ryan Hardy (Charlie Bird, Pasquale Jones).

LIBERTE MENU AT GOTHAM BAR AND GRILL (L–R) Chefs Alex Raij, Marco Canora, and George Mendes.

Top Chefs to Cook at Spring Benefit for Edible Schoolyard SYLVAIN GABOURY

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

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Metropolitan West 639 W. 46th St. (at 12th Avenue) Hell’s Kitchen

Last year’s Edible Schoolyard benefit. The organization raises funds for public school food education classes.

COURTESY OF EDIBLE SCHOOLYARD

dible Schoolyard, an organization that provides gardening and cooking classes to New York public schools, will be hosting its annual benefit gala on April 24. The chair of the event, chef David Chang, has assembled a lineup of top chefs who will each prepare a unique four-course meal for an individual table of guests. Among the chefs are Greg Baxtrom of Olmsted, Fredrik Berselius of Aska, Alexandra Raij of Txikito, Eli Kaimeh of Per Se, Joseph “JJ” Johnson of Minton’s, and Ryan Hardy of Charlie Bird. Some sweets makers will also be showcasing their crafts at the dinner, including Nicholas Morgenstern of Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream. Mixologist Dave Arnold will be providing libations.

Each year, Edible Schoolyard teaches more than 2,800 students. The organization focuses on nutrition and health through hands-on classes. Last year, its teaching gardens, where students learn to tend to crops, produced

MONDAY, APRIL 24 6 P.M.

1,534 pounds of food in the form of 97 crop varieties, according to the organization’s website. Parents reported that their children ate more healthy foods at home after completing the classes.

The gala will feature garden-inspired décor designed by firm Van Wyck & Van Wyck. $1,500 to $5,000 per person (table packages available).

EdibleSchoolyardNYC.org

WEEKENDS Thai restaurant Pinto Garden has launched a weekend brunch. Chef Teerawong “Yo” Nanthavatsiri, a Bangkok native, adds a Thai twist to his favorite American brunch classics, such as buttermilk fried chicken with a lemongrass waffle; the Tom Yum Lobster Congee, flavored with housemade tom yum paste; and roti (similar to pancakes) with caramelized banana and coconut palm sugar.

PintoGarden.com Pinto Garden, 117 W. 10th St. (between Sixth & Greenwich avenues) Greenwich Village

DESSERT AND VERMOUTH PAIRINGS AT BENOIT

• Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet.

ONGOING At Benoit’s wine bar, guests can enjoy dessert and vermouth pairings daily, including lemon curd with cucumber, confit citrus, and thyme, paired with La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Extra Dry; and Dark Chocolate Crémeux with toasted buckwheat, paired with Maurin Quina Le Puy Liqueur. $22 for each pairing. BenoitNY.com Benoit, 60 W. 55th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues), Midtown

TASTE Pick

• Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients.

• Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

TASTE Pick

CHICKEN MADNESS SANDWICH AT BLUE RIBBON FRIED CHICKEN

Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken 28 E. First St. (at Second Avenue) East Village

THAI BRUNCH AT PINTO GARDEN

• Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain.

Gotham Bar and Grill 12 E. 12th St. (between Fifth Avenue & University Place) Union Square

THROUGH FRIDAY, MARCH 31 The March special at Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken is the Chicken Madness sandwich, topped with barbecue pulled chicken, pepper jack cheese, bacon, barbecue sauce, and pickled peppers. $8.95. BlueRibbonFriedChicken.com

New & Noteworthy

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine

THROUGH FRIDAY, MARCH 31 Executive chef Alfred Portale will serve a four-course, traditional French dinner inspired by his time apprenticing in Paris kitchens. Dishes will vary throughout the month, but guests can expect options like Selle D’Agneau Rôtie (roasted leg of lamb) with roasted garlic, white runner beans, and burgundy sauce; and Charcuterie Maison, duck terrine with green peppercorn on toasted brioche. $75 per person.

GothamBarAndGrill.com

PACIFIC NORTHWESTINSPIRED SALADS AT CHOPT THROUGH SUNDAY, MAY 7 Fast-casual salad chain Chopt is offering a selection of new limited-edition salads inspired by ingredients from the Pacific Northwest, such as the Wild Smokehouse Salmon Plate with smoked wild sockeye salmon, a quinoa-lentil-and-millet blend, pickled sweet onions, and arugula with dill-caraway dressing; and the Beekeeper’s Quinoa Bowl, featuring aged Tillamook cheddar cheese (from Oregon) with tricolor quinoa, roasted chickpeas, purple cabbage, and more, topped with wildflower honey-dijon dressing. ChoptSalad.com All Chopt locations

Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

ST. PATRICK’S DAY SPECIALS AT THE FLYING COCK FRIDAY, MARCH 17 This Murray Hill pub will serve two St. Patrick specials: the Loaded Corned Beef Sandwich, with corned beef, English mustard, melted Gruyère, Guinnesscaramelized onions, pickled cabbage, and puréed potatoes on toasted rye bread, and the Caskmates Irish Coffee, made with Jameson Caskmates whiskey, coffee, brown sugar, and heavy cream.

TheFlyingCockNYC.com The Flying Cock 497 Third Ave. (between East 33rd & East 34th streets) Murray Hill

ST. PATRICK’S DAY SPECIALS AT THE McKITTRICK HOTEL SATURDAY, MARCH 18 The day after the festivities, brunch specials will be served at McKittrick Hotel’s rooftop bar, The Lodge at Gallow Green, including a green Bloody Mary made with green tomato juice and spices, and a full English breakfast, complete with baked beans, bacon, Cumberland sausages, and grilled tomatoes. McKittrickHotel.com The Lodge at Gallow Green McKittrick Hotel 542 W. 27th St. (between 10th & 11th avenues) Chelsea

WHISKEY ICE CREAM AT ODDFELLOWS ICE CREAM THROUGH FRIDAY, MARCH 31 In honor of St. Patrick’s Day, ice cream master Sam Mason at OddFellows has created a flight of ice creams infused with Irish whiskeys, available only at the Williamsburg location.

For $13, you can get a scoop of Dead Rabbit Irish Coffee ice cream made with Clontarf Irish whiskey; Knappogue Castle 14 Year Single Malt Whiskey ice cream with sherry syrup; or Burnt Marshmallow ice cream with a Knappogue Castle 12 Year wash.

OddFellowsNYC.com OddFellows Ice Cream Co. 175 Kent Ave. (at North Third Street) Williamsburg

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March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

with Lior Lev Sercarz

On the Hunt for Spices and the Art of Blending Flavors

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

THOMAS SCHAUER (LIOR LEV SERCARZ); SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

A

ll cooks abide by this credo: Seasoning is critical to the flavors in a dish. So why do top chefs in New York and beyond— among them Eric Ripert, Daniel Boulud, and Gail Simmons—turn to Lior Lev Sercarz for their spices?

La Boîte, Lev Sercarz’s spice shop in Manhattan’s Hell’s Kitchen, displays the stunning breadth of his spice blends. Arranged like cosmetics for sampling, jars upon jars of aromatic seasonings are available for visitors to twist open and smell. The Shabazi, a mix of green chilies, parsley, and coriander, smells so appetizing it almost makes your mouth water. The Pierre Poivre, named after the 18th-century French botanist who researched spice cultivation, is a blend of eight different peppers that tickles your nose with its complexity: minty, tangy, and spicy all at once.

Even jars of single spices are revelatory.

Lemon myrtle is woodsy; nutmeg in its shell has smoky qualities.

This wonderland is Lev Sercarz’s world.

After spending 20 years as a chef in professional kitchens in France and New York, he decided to channel his lifelong fascination for spices into a full-time passion. Today, Lev Sercarz mixes and blends spices for restaurants around the world.

Lev Sercarz’s definition of spice is not confined to the typical array in the average pantry. His philosophy: “Everything that I can season my food or beverage with is a spice.”

That means dried watercress can be used to boost soups and stews; cinnamon buds can add a warm, mellow flavor, commonly found in Asian pickles and teas.

In his encyclopedic book “The Spice Companion,” each spice—from A to Z—gets an entry, with information on its country of origin, harvest season, uses in traditional cuisines, and ideal food pairings.

I recently spoke to Lev Sercarz to learn the nitty-gritty about his spice universe.

Epoch Times: What is a typical day like for you?

Lior Lev Sercarz: I don’t wear a straw hat and a backpack and run around the world to source spices. I get up, feed my two young kids, and go to my store in Hell’s Kitchen, and no two days are alike. I blend spices into over 130 different spice blends that I personally make. I receive shipments from all over the world. I do most of my sourcing and purchasing either by phone or online.

I don’t travel to sources around the world to get them, but I do read a lot and connect to a lot to people, either directly or through brokers.

It might sound a little bit less poetic than 300 or 400 years ago, when I would have sailed to Southeast Asia to start sourcing some spices. I just have to be practical. There are people who already do it, so I ask them to bring the best possible things they can find.

RECIPE SHAMIR Season cooked, shredded chicken with this blend, along with mayonnaise, lemon juice, and chopped scallions (green parts only), to make a sandwich spread, or use the blend to add an herbaceous element to steamed fish or shrimp.

Makes about 1/2 cup (23 grams) • 1/2 cup (10 grams) dried dill • 1 tablespoon (5 grams) dill seeds • 1/2 tablespoon (5 grams) poppy seeds • Scant 3/4 teaspoon (3 grams) nigella seeds Reprinted from “The Spice Companion” by Lior Lev Sercarz. Photographs by Thomas Schauer. Copyright 2016. Published by Clarkson Potter/Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.

(Clockwise from top L) La Boîte, Lev Sercarz’s spice shop; Lior Lev Sercarz has made spice blends for the world’s top restaurants; a collection of Lev Sercarz’s blends; and illustrations of spices on display at La Boîte.

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

You can find La Boîte at 724 Eleventh Ave. in Hell’s Kitchen.

Growing saffron is laborintensive, hence why it’s so expensive.

This spice blend goes well with seafood or meat.

KERDKANNO/ SHUTTERSTOCK

Epoch Times: When making spice blends, what’s your creative process like?

Lev Sercarz: I taste it, I smell it, I take it and just add it to food. Sometimes it doesn’t necessarily work. But that’s the only way to go about it. This is what I always tell people: You should taste and smell the element as it is raw, but there is no other way but to try it with food or beverage.

It’s a lot of trial and error, and luckily, more trial than error with time. But even after so many years, it’s nice when I’m proved wrong or I’m surprised by something I didn’t expect would work.

We have a blend that I made many years ago that I like a lot. I use it a lot with meat, fish, chicken, and vegetables. To me, it was always a savory kind of spice. Not too long ago, one of my clients made me a cocktail and I didn’t even know what was in it. It was very tasty. When I asked what was in it, he said, “It’s your blend [Isphahan N.1].” And I was really shocked because it’s a blend that contains a fair amount of garlic in it. It was one of these moments when I was happy to be proved wrong. It’s something that I would never expect, even not recommend it.

This young man, who I don’t think even knew what was in it, he just went for it. That’s the way to go—ignore what’s in it. Sometimes it doesn’t work, and that’s not a bad thing. But if it does work, it opens up so many possibilities.

Lev Sercarz’s Buying Tips Look for vibrant color.

If something is supposed to be whole, but there are lots of broken pieces or powder, stay away from it.

Jars or other containers are preferable to plastic bags, as they tend to protect spices better.

The more you pay for the spices, chances are, the better quality.

“In my experience, when the cost of the product is a bit higher, it’s because somebody cared for that product a little bit more,” Lev Sercarz said.

Try small quantities from different buyers, then decide which one you like.

Epoch Times: One thing your book mentions is how terroir is important in growing spices.

Could you tell me more about that?

Lev Sercarz: Peppercorns from India don’t taste like those from Indonesia or Brazil or Ecuador.

It’s like any other crop, like cocoa or coffee or fruits and vegetables. It’s not that one is better than the other, they’re just different.

Sometimes there are very small nuances that are hard to define. Sometimes I don’t actually spot a difference among the varieties. Maybe it’s a little more pungent or the color is a little bit different.

Epoch Times: You write about traditional farming practices in many places that produce spices. What is traditional farming like?

Lev Sercarz: It’s family-run, smaller-scale farms. There’s not a lot of mechanical equipment. Everything is done by hand for the most part. The landscape doesn’t really allow for any mechanical equipment because it’s very steep or very wet. It’s a lot of farms with an ecosystem where other crops are growing as well as spices. I think it’s a very healthy way of growing things. The land remains fertile.

Epoch Times: Are there any spices that stand out to you for being particularly difficult to cultivate?

Lev Sercarz: [Growing] saffron is very laborintensive. It’s not something that you can currently mass produce. It needs vast territory to grow a lot.

Vanilla needs to be hand-pollinated. There remains a handful of spices that are harder to grow, more sensitive to climate, so the prices will always be more expensive. It’s like you can buy a car, a luxury one that’s assembled by hand. It depends on what you’re looking for.

Interview has been edited for brevity and clarity

FOCAL POINT (TURMERIC CIRCLE); YURI TYNYANKIN (SAFFRON); JOKER1991/ SHUTTERSTOCK (TURMERIC)

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@EpochTaste

March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PHIL MANSFIELD/THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA VIA AP

1. Duck Chorizo Serves approximately 16 • 1/2 cup red wine • 1 teaspoon olive oil • 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic • Meat from 1 1/2 pounds duck legs, skin removed • 6 ounces pork belly, cubed • 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 5 black peppercorns, cracked • 3/4 teaspoon smoked paprika • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed • Lamb casings, as needed (optional) Place the wine in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Simmer until the wine has reduced by about half, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely.

Bangers and Mash for a Rustic, Hearty St. Patrick’s Day Dish The Culinary Institute of America St. Patrick’s Day traditions in the United States run deep. We eat corned beef and cabbage, we drink green beer, and we shame our co-workers into wearing green sweaters to the office. If you’re looking for a change of pace this year (except for the sweaters, which are mandatory), maybe a menu swap is in order.

The Culinary Institute of America’s recipe for Bangers and Mash is a rustic, hearty dish that will easily earn its place among your holiday traditions.

Creamy potatoes, homemade gravy, and sausage are classic comfort foods on the Emerald Isle, and this recipe helps you make every component from scratch.

You may be skeptical, but homemade sausage is incredibly easy to prepare. If you’ve ever made a meatloaf or meatball, you’ve basically made sausage.

The recipes we’ve included here call for the sausages to be stuffed into casings, which you can buy from your butcher or online. For a super simplified version, though, you can skip the casings entirely.

Prepare the filling as written, then form it into patties that you can cook like a hamburger. You can also roll it into sausage link-shaped logs and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate them to help them firm up a bit, then remove the plastic and cook them like you would any other sausages.

The meat for your sausage will need to be finely ground. You can ask your butcher to grind it for you.

Once you have your sausage squared away, it’s all about the velvety buttermilk whipped potatoes and stout-onion gravy. Stouts, like Guinness, are bold and rich, with enough bitterness to help cut through the creaminess of the dish. You can use any beer, but for St. Patrick’s Day, the Dublin-bred Guinness is almost a requirement. Just don’t spill it on your green sweater.

In a medium bowl, combine the duck meat, pork belly, red pepper flakes, cumin, peppercorns, paprika, and salt.

Add the cooled wine and garlic. Mix to coat the meat.

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and transfer to the freezer. Chill until the meat is nearly frozen, but not solid, about 1 hour.

RECIPE

Prepare an ice water bath and set aside.

Set the bowl of a stand mixer over the ice bath, and pass the chilled meat mixture through the 1/4-inch plate (small or medium) of a meat grinder into the bowl.

BANGERS AND MASH WITH BUTTERMILK WHIPPED POTATOES AND STOUT-ONION GRAVY Prep & Cooking Time: 3 hours, 30 minutes (Active time: 2 hours) Serves 8 • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil • 8 links sausage of either Duck Chorizo or Chicken Sausage (recipes follow) • 2 cups cooked white beans • Buttermilk Whipped Potatoes (recipe follows) • Stout-Onion Gravy (recipe follows) • Root Vegetable Chips (recipe follows)

• 4 russet potatoes, peeled and quartered • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter • 1/4 cup buttermilk • 1/2 cup milk Heat the oven to 350 F. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with cold water by about 3 inches. Add the salt, and bring to a boil over moderate heat. Cook until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a fork or skewer, about 18 to 20 minutes.

Drain the potatoes and shake off any excess water. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and transfer to the oven. Bake until the potatoes are dried slightly, about 15 minutes.

Place the butter in a large bowl. Place a food mill on top of the bowl and process the potatoes through the mill. Alternately, use a potato ricer or masher to mash the potatoes until smooth.

Add the buttermilk and milk, stirring to combine. Season with salt, to taste.

Take a small portion of the mixture and cook in a hot saute pan until cooked through. Taste for seasoning and add more to the mixture, as needed.

Stuff the mixture into the casings, and twist to make 3-inch links, if desired. Alternately, divide the mixture into 8 equal portions and form into patties. Refrigerate until needed.

4. Stout-Onion Gravy Serves 8 • 2 tablespoons butter • 1 medium yellow onion, thinly sliced • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour • 1 cup stout beer (Guinness) • 1 cup low-sodium beef broth • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more as needed

Lightly oil a grill or grill pan and heat to medium-high. Grill the sausages, turning occasionally, until they are browned on all sides, about 8 minutes.

Transfer to indirect heat or a 350 F oven until cooked through, about 15 minutes.

In a medium bowl, combine the beans and about 1/4 cup of the stout gravy.

Serve the cooked sausages with the beans, whipped potatoes, stout gravy, and root vegetable chips.

You may be skeptical, but homemade sausage is incredibly easy to prepare.

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

2. Chicken Sausage Serves approximately 16 • 1 pound, 8 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cubed • 8 ounces pork fatback, cubed • 1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more as needed • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper • 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic • 1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted and ground • 1/4 teaspoon coriander seeds, toasted and ground • 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes • 1 teaspoon cold water • Natural hog casings, as needed

Melt the butter in a large saute pan over medium heat. Add the onions and saute until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low, and continue to cook until the onions are golden and caramelized, 6 to 8 minutes more.

Sprinkle the flour over the onions and stir to combine. Cook until the flour is wellincorporated and the mixture has thickened, about 2 minutes.

Add the beer and use a wooden spoon to scrape any brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the beef broth and bring to a simmer.

Simmer until the gravy has thickened, for 10 to 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Reserve warm until needed.

In a medium bowl, combine the chicken thighs, fatback, salt, pepper, garlic, fennel, coriander, and red pepper flakes.

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and transfer to the freezer.

Rich Paella Valenciana

Chill until the meat is nearly frozen, but not solid, about 1 hour.

Fresh Lobster Bisque

Prepare an ice water bath and set aside.

Set the bowl of a stand mixer over the ice bath, and pass the chilled meat mixture through the 1/4-inch plate of a meat grinder into the bowl.

Juicy Lamb Chops CANICULA (MEAT); TAIRY GREENE/SHUTTERSTOCK (VEGETABLES)

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

Serves 8

Transfer the bowl to the mixer and use the paddle attachment to mix on low speed until the mixture is sticky, about 1 minute.

DIRECTIONS

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE

at el Pote

Heat the oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook until it is fragrant and softened, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

3. Buttermilk Whipped Potatoes

Transfer the bowl to the mixer and use the paddle attachment to mix on low speed until the mixture is sticky, about 1 minute.

Add the water and mix to combine, for 30 seconds.

Take a small portion of the mixture and cook in a hot saute pan until cooked through. Taste for seasoning and add more to the mixture, as needed.

Stuff the mixture into the casings, and twist to make 3-inch links, if desired.

Alternately, divide the mixture into 8 equal portions and form into patties. Refrigerate until needed.

5. Root Vegetable Chips Serves 8 • 3 pounds assorted root vegetables, such as yuca, sweet potato, taro, salsify, or lotus • Vegetable oil, as needed for frying • Kosher salt, to taste Peel the root vegetables. Use a mandoline, vegetable peeler, or chef’s knife to slice the vegetables as thinly as possible.

Fill a large, heavy-bottomed pot with about 2 inches of oil. Heat over medium heat until a thermometer reads 350 F. Use a slotted spoon or gently lower the sliced vegetables into the oil. Fry, turning occasionally, until they are golden brown and crisp, 1 to 2 minutes.

Transfer to a towel-lined tray and sprinkle with salt. Cool slightly before serving.

From The Associated Press

D7

@EpochTaste

March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com SARA MOULTON VIA AP

RECIPE • 1 cup finely chopped onion • 2 teaspoons minced chili (with the seeds and veins) • 2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger • 1/2 teaspoon garam masala • 1/2 cup thawed frozen peas • 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, plus extra for garnish

CHICKPEA CREPES STUFFED WITH INDIAN SPICED POTATOES AND PEAS Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes (45 active) Serves 4

Chickpea Crepes Boost Flavor and Nutrition

By Sara Moulton I’ve always loved crepes, those elegant, paperthin French pancakes. They’re great containers for any filling and—as long as you have the proper pan—they’re really a cinch to make.

But let’s face it, the typical flour-based crepe is pretty bland. It’s a messenger, not a message.

We care far less about the crepe itself than we do about what’s wrapped up in it.

But what if the crepe boasted some flavor and nutrition? Enter chickpea flour. Popular throughout the Middle East and Asia, as well as along the Mediterranean, it’s a good source of protein and fiber and happens to be quite tasty, almost nutty. Today’s recipe is a variation on a swell little chickpea pancake that’s known as socca in southern France and farinata in northern Italy.

Made with chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and seasonings, socca is pretty elemental.

As noted, it’s delicious, but texture-wise, it’s sturdy, not pliable. I wanted to make a chickpea pancake that was thin enough to fold like a crepe. So I added some eggs and a tiny amount of flour.

For the Crepes • 1/2 cup chickpea flour (available at many supermarkets and online) • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1/8 teaspoon baking soda • 2 large eggs • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing the pan

DIRECTIONS Make the crepes: In a medium bowl, sift together the chickpea flour, all-purpose flour, salt, and baking soda. In a second medium bowl, whisk the eggs, add 1/2 cup water, and the oil; mix well. Add the liquid ingredients to the dry ingredients and whisk until there are no lumps. Let the batter rest for 30 minutes.

For the Filling • 1/2 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces • 2 cups chopped (1/4 to 1/2-inch pieces) cauliflower • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil • Kosher salt • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds • 1 teaspoon mustard seeds

While the batter is resting, make the filling: Heat the oven to 450 F. In a small saucepan combine the potatoes with enough cold, salted water to cover by

There’s a way to make gluten-free chickpea crepes, but you’ll have to swap out the regular flour for cornstarch (just be sure it’s glutenfree cornstarch) or gluten-free flour. If you roll with the gluten-free flour, you’ll need to add an additional tablespoon or two of water to thin out the batter.

What about the filling? Anything you might want to put into a crepe or tortilla, you can put into a chickpea crepe. Here I’ve taken an Indian vegetarian route: Indian spices, potatoes, and peas. But if you happen to be short of time, feel free to combine any leftovers you have in the refrigerator, roll them up in the crepes and heat them in a 300 F oven for about 10 minutes.

Instant dinner! (But without the empty carbs.)

Question: Why does sophisticated food always have to be complicated? Answer: Trick question; it doesn’t.

Case in point, these pork chops. You quickly sear the chops up and finish by making a rich, creamy, leek pan sauce in the same skillet you used to brown the chops in. The seared chops then finish cooking in the sauce, and you have a one-dish meal that you might be pleased to have served up to you at a restaurant.

If you don’t have fresh rosemary or thyme, use half the dried amount of each. And if there is a border of fat on the chops, use a knife to score it (cut vertical lines across the sides of the fat, without cutting into the meat itself) so that the chops stay nice and flat as they cook.

When you sear meat, try to avoid moving it around and flipping it frequently, which prevents that great caramelized crust from forming. Peek when you need to, but don’t keep fussing around with it.

Madeira is a slightly sweet, fortified wine that keeps for months and months once opened, so don’t worry if you can’t use up the bottle right away.

Serve this dish with mashed potatoes, rice, or a grain salad, and a fluffy pile of lettuce dressed with a punchy vinaigrette to play off the creamy sauce.

Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.”

From The Associated Press

mixture, peas, lemon juice, cilantro, and salt to taste; stir until combined.

On a rimmed sheet pan lined with parchment or foil, toss the cauliflower with 1 tablespoon of the oil and a hefty pinch of salt.

Make the crepes: Brush the bottom and 1/2-inch up the sides of an 8-inch nonstick skillet with a little oil and heat the pan over medium-high heat until it is hot. Whisk the batter to remix.

Add slightly more than 1/8 cup of the batter to the pan and working quickly, pick up and tilt the pan so that the batter coats the bottom. Let the crepe cook for 45 seconds to 1 minute or until it is set. Flip the crepe and cook it for 30 seconds on the second side. Transfer it to a plate and make more crepes with the remaining batter. You should have at least 8 crepes.

Arrange it in one layer and bake it on the middle shelf of the oven until golden, about 15 to 20 minutes. Set aside and reduce the oven to 300 F. In a medium skillet combine the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil with the cumin and mustard seeds. Cover the skillet and cook over medium heat until the seeds become fragrant and start popping, about 2 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium low and add the onion, chili, ginger, and garam masala. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is golden.

When the potatoes are tender, transfer them to a bowl and mash them with a potato masher or fork until mostly mashed with a few lumps (don’t overdo it or you will get gluey potatoes).

To assemble, arrange 8 crepes on a cutting board and divide the potato mixture among them (about 1/4 cup per crepe). Roll up the crepes to enclose the filling and transfer them to the rimmed sheet, seam side down.

Cover with foil and bake them on the middle shelf of the oven until hot, about 10 minutes.

Add the cauliflower, onion

Recipe by Sara Moulton

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Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.”

SO FRESH!

From The Associated Press

MIA VIA AP

A Quick Supper That Calls for Pork Chops, Madeira, and Leeks

By Katie Workman

2 inches. Bring to a boil and simmer until tender, about 5 to 8 minutes.

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RECIPE PAN-SEARED PORK CHOPS WITH MADEIRA AND LEEK CREAM SAUCE Prep & Cooking Time: 25 minutes Serves 4 • 4 large, bone-in, 1-inch thick pork chops (about 3 pounds total) • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 2 shallots, minced • 1 cup sliced leeks (white and light green parts only), well rinsed • 1/4 cup Madeira wine • 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves • 1 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves • 1 cup chicken broth • 3/4 cup heavy cream • Hot cooked mashed potatoes, rice, quinoa, or other grains, to serve • Chopped freshly parsley to garnish (optional)

DIRECTIONS Bring the pork chops to room temperature and season generously with salt and pepper.

Heat the oil in a large pan over medium-high heat and sear the chops without moving them until browned on both sides, about 3 minutes on each side (they will not be fully cooked, but still pink in the middle).

Transfer the pork chops to a plate, and tent with foil to keep warm.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, and add the shallots and leeks to the pan. Saute for 10 minutes until they are tender and golden brown.

Turn the heat back up to mediumhigh, add the Madeira, thyme, and rosemary, and scrape to release any bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken broth and cream, and bring to a simmer, then return the pork chops to the pan, nestling them into the sauce among the leeks, and continue to simmer until the pork is just cooked through, with a hint of pink in the middle, to an internal temperature of 145 F, about 3 more minutes. The sauce will have reduced and thickened a bit.

Let the chops sit in the sauce for a couple of minutes off of the heat.

Serve them with the starch of your choice, with the leek sauce ladled over the top of the pork. Finish with a sprinkle of parsley, if desired.

Recipe by Katie Workman

Colin Hagendorf sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog.

All 375 of them.

NY Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *

AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News.

Come and try for yourself.

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D8

@EpochTaste

March 17–23, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF BERNARD LIBERATORE

Bonjour Chef In this series, columnist Sibylle Eschapasse interviews some of France’s top chefs, the Maîtres Cuisiniers de France.

with

Bernard Liberatore

Name: Bernard Liberatore Hometown: Annecy, Haute Savoie Age: 46 Restaurant: The CORE Club

By Sibylle Eschapasse Sibylle Eschapasse: What does it mean to you to be a Maître Cuisinier de France, a most admired title?

Bernard Liberatore: At first, it comes as recognition from your peers, but most importantly it is a responsibility and quest to always preserve, advance, and perpetuate the tradition of great French cuisine, and to mentor, train, and assist in the professional development of the new generation of chefs.

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

Ms. Eschapasse: Why did you choose to become a chef?

Mr. Liberatore: I started to be interested in cooking and baking at an early age with my mother—she is a really good cook—and when the time arrived to choose a career, it just made sense and it was the only path I saw myself in. As for the why, at that time, I didn’t have that answer yet, nor really an understanding of what it would take to become a professional chef.

Ms. Eschapasse: If a close friend were to describe your cooking in three words, what would they be?

Mr. Liberatore: Elegant yet soulful and imaginative.

Ms. Eschapasse: Who would you consider your greatest culinary influence?

Mr. Liberatore: It’s hard to really pinpoint someone in particular as I have been permeated with different influences to create my own.

But I can say Marc Veyrat always strikes me, not only as a talented chef but as a person, as resilient, fierce, and yet generous—”un montagnard” [a mountain guy], like me.

Ms. Eschapasse: How would you define French cuisine?

Mr. Liberatore: A cuisine that is diverse, with

RECIPE PORCINI AND BEAUFORT CHEESE SOUFFLE Serves 10 For the Porcini Velouté Makes 1 quart • 4 pounds porcini mushrooms • 2 fluid ounces olive oil • 3 shallots • 1 onion • 4 sprigs of thyme • Salt and pepper, to taste • 5 fluid ounces Noilly Prat (dry vermouth) • 1 quart heavy cream • Vegetable stock, for thinning For the Soufflé Makes 10 • 2 ounces butter • 4 tablespoons flour • 2.5 fluid ounces heavy cream • 2.5 fluid ounces milk • 1 garlic cloves • 1 sprig of thyme • 1 cup Porcini Velouté • 5 ounces Beaufort cheese • Nutmeg, to taste • Salt and pepper, to taste • 3 egg yolks • 3 egg whites

DIRECTIONS

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To Make the Velouté Clean the porcini and cut into 1-inch pieces.

Mince the shallot and onion.

In a skillet, on medium heat, add the olive oil, then sweat the shallot and onion for 3 minutes.

Add the diced porcini and sauté to a golden color. Add the thyme and season with salt and pepper.

Years of experience with French cuisine:

27

Maître Cuisinier de France since:

2011

a deep cultural heritage and respect of tradition, which can be used as a base for new and innovative creations.

Ms. Eschapasse: Tell us about the recipe you chose.Mr. Liberatore: Double-baked soufflés are always easy to create and fun to have in a home cook’s repertoire. They are less daunting than regular cheese soufflés. Also I wanted to showcase two ingredients dear to me. Beaufort cheese from the Alps, my region, is a beautiful cheese with a distinct aroma, sometime described as mildly pungent and reminiscent of the pastures on which the Tarentaise and Abondance cows graze—my favorite cheese.

And the porcini I love maybe because I used to go pick them with my father in my youth and love all the aromas found in the woods.

Ms. Eschapasse: What’s your advice to people who would like to improve their cooking skills or learn to cook?

Mr. Liberatore: I would say the only way to improve cooking skills is like everything else: Repeat them over and over until you perfect them.

You can watch Bernard Liberatore demonstrate the full recipe on “Celebrity Taste Makers” on Saturday, March 18 at 6 p.m on PIX11.

Sibylle Eschapasse is from Paris and lives in New York City. In addition to working at the United Nations, she contributes to various publications and is the host of “Sibylle’s Top French Chefs,” a series being aired on “Celebrity Taste Makers.” She may be reached at sibylle.eschapasse@gmail.com MELINDA MARTINEZ/CELEBRITY TASTE MAKERS

Deglaze with the Noilly, then reduce to cook down the alcohol. Remove about 1/4 of the porcini and reserve for the garnish.

Add the heavy cream and turn to a slow heat, cooking gently for 15 minutes. Blend till smooth.

Reserve 1 cup for the soufflé base.

To Make the Soufflé Heat your oven to 375 F. Melt the butter over medium heat, then add the flour to make a roux. Cook the roux for 5 minutes and set aside. Bring the heavy cream, milk, garlic, and thyme to a boil. Steep for 10 minutes. Shred the Beaufort cheese.

Strain out the thyme and garlic. Bring cream mixture back to a boil, then pour over the roux to make a béchamel sauce. Cook over medium for 5 to 8 minutes. Add the reserved 1 cup of Porcini Velouté and 2/3 of the cheese. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper, to taste.

Add the egg yolks. Whip the egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Gently fold the whipped egg whites into to mixture.

Grease ten 4-ounce ramekins or aluminum tins.

Fill them with the soufflé base, almost to the rim.

Bake for 8 to 10 minutes.

Note: This soufflé can be pre-baked ahead of time and refrigerated.

To serve, heat the oven to 350 F. Warm up the velouté with a little vegetable stock. Place the soufflé in a gratin or baking dish, pour over the velouté, add the diced porcini, and sprinkle the remaining cheese over them. Bake for 6 minutes.

Recipe courtesy of Bernard Liberatore