Epoch Taste 4-21-2017

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D1 April 21–27, 2017

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES

Dining in a

French Living Room on D3

www.EpochTaste.com

Singing Praises Vegetables of

(Clockwise from top L) Roasted chicken with a mound of green garbanzo beans hiding underneath spinach leaves; the O Sweet Spontaneous cocktail, with strawberryrhubarb, vodka, and Lillet Rose wine; bresaola with baked cheddar crackers; parsnip dessert, with white chocolate and parsnip skin; and Brussels sprouts with toasted rye bread and cheddar.

Villanelle, in Greenwich Village, prepares local farm produce with unadorned simplicity ANNIE WU

H

ow is it that a dish can capture the feeling of spring so vividly? Sugar snap peas—sliced perpendicularly into small rings—are tossed with mint, Thai basil, and bits of sliced fennel, with a hint of raw grassiness still lingering. The vegetables’ true flavors emanate forth; save for a drizzle of shallot vinaigrette on the plate, they are practically untamed, unvarnished. Verdant gardens and sunny skies await, they seem to say. This sugar snap peas dish ($16) exemplifies the kind of simple preparation found at Villanelle, a

Villanelle newly opened restaurant a few blocks away from Union Square. Executive chef Nick Licata goes to the Union Square Greenmarket four times a week to procure the latest seasonal goods, then experiments to find “the most simple way that represents the ingredient,” he said. The vegetable is the starting point. Then, Licata and his team of chefs determine what pairs well with it. “Oftentimes, you go someplace and they do so much to the ingredient, you lose the soul,” said Licata, who previously worked at Degustation and Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar. His philosophy is that high-quality produce speaks for itself, so if

you manipulate it substantially, it had better be for a good reason. A dish of Brussels sprouts ($17) is thus presented with its leaves peeled off and prepared as crunchy bits of barely cooked, pure vegetal goodness, peppered with occasional hits of umami in the form of grated fresh garlic. Cubes of toasted rye bread and cheddar provide extra texture, but otherwise, you can savor the flavors of the vegetable itself—and when was the last time you got to eat Brussels sprouts like that?

15 E. 12th St. (between University Place & Fifth Avenue) Greenwich Village 212-989-2474 VillanelleNYC.com

See Villanelle on D2

Closed Sunday

Hours Monday–Thursday 5:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Friday & Saturday 5:30 p.m.–11:30 p.m.


D2

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April 21–27, 2017 ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES

Villanelle’s approach entails simple preparations with local ingredients.

Singing Praises of Vegetables Villanelle continued from D1

Executive chef Nick Licata.

Even in a dish with meat, the greens steal the show. Roasted chicken, with a paperthin layer of crispy skin ($28), is paired with a savory-sweet sauce made with the remaining chicken parts, such as the gelatin-rich feet. The sauce, which tasted a bit like miso, gave an extra boost of saltiness. But the most intriguing part was the mound of green garbanzo and fava beans, rendered soft like grains of rice, and mixed with a green, meatless ragù of sorts: barley, spinach, and the tops of green garlic melding into a creamy con-

The restaurant’s name, Villanelle, is a form of Italian sung poetry.

SET SAIL

sistency. The contrast between its vibrant green color and the unexpected cheesy flavor made for a fun surprise. The ode to earth’s bounty extends to the restaurant’s name itself. A villanelle is an old form of Italian poetry sung by countryside troupes, usually in performances for city nobility. Firsttime restaurant owner Catherine Manning thought the name was fitting for an establishment that brought the produce of local farms to diners in New York City. At the same time, “we also wanted to nod to the literary roots of Greenwich Village where we are located,” Manning said, in an email. In a black bass dish ($26), it is the green tomatillos and their ability to deliver tang that is celebrated. The tomatoes, almost mouth-puckering tart, are paired with bright lemony tones—coming from a broth that incorporates lemon thyme. The herb is a perennial plant that grows practically everywhere in New York, Licata explained. The acidity in both elements deliver intensity to the fish and the accompanying couscous cooked in saffron, which are both mildly seasoned.

And mustard greens, a little bitter, a little sharp, help to cut through a hearty combination: grilled beef, drizzled with a moreish meat jus made by simmering veal bones and chicken parts; and a rich polenta cooked in milk and cream ($34). Dessert is still rooted in vegetables. A parsnip is first baked, then braised in butter and served with a pool of white chocolate and crispy parsnip skin ($12). Flavors that I had never associated with parsnip came forth as I took bites: not only pleasantly sweet, but with an almost floral and herbal quality. The dish completely transformed the parsnip into an ingredient with new possibilities. At the restaurant’s gorgeous marble-top bar, situated right in the middle of the airy dining room, guests can sample cocktails made with farmers market produce and housemade bitters, tinctures, and syrups. The O Sweet Spontaneous is a fruity concoction made with strawberryrhubarb, vodka, and Lillet Rose wine, while the Mad Girls Love Song blends tequila with Cherry Heering and Bénédictine liqueurs (all $15).

TO SAGAPONACK

The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.

Villanelle’s sleek, airy dining room.

4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226

sagaponacknyc.com

Sugar snap peas, Thai basil, and herbs make for a verdant dish. The O Sweet Spontaneous cocktail. Black bass, green tomatillos, couscous, and lemon thyme broth.


D3

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April 21–27, 2017

Dining in a French Living Room

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES

CHANNALY PHILIPP Jubilee, a neighborhood spot about 10 blocks north of the United Nations, is as un-hip as it gets. In the era of exposed brick, this restaurant’s walls are instead lined with bookshelves, weighed heavy by tomes (“History of Great Britain,” anyone?) and family mementos. And instead of the high decibels that come with a chic industrial space, here the sounds, cushioned by a soft landing on cloth-bound books, are muted. Even the menu asks patrons to keep cell phones silenced. To some, it will seem outdated; to others, it will be like a breath of fresh air—more living room than a public space, especially as the dining area has been largely built by the family behind the restaurant. The chef and owner, Luc Holié, holds the distinction of being a Maître Cuisinier de France (master chef of France), a title that only 18 French chefs in New York City bear in honor of their work in promoting and advancing French cuisine. And so the menu features classic French dishes as well as Holié’s own creations. A trio of mussels, plump and juicy, are served free of their shells, in three small, deep bowls that hold more mussels than expected. The nine choices of broth you can choose from are wildly different, from the Poulette, a creamy chicken broth with mushrooms and white truffle oil, to the Catalane, a summery choice, with tomato and chorizo broth. You could spend much of the meal exploring the appetizer menu, which offers many classic specialties. One of the most ordered dishes is the Soupe à l’Oignon, with its leopard-spotted gooey shell of Swiss cheese on top ($13). What lies underneath is deep and savory—and piping hot! If no one has warned you, let me do so: The cheese acts like a blanket, keeping the onion soup nice and hot. The first time I went to Jubilee, I was so hungry I didn’t have the patience to

(Clockwise from center) Swordfish with tomato crust, in black olive broth, served with bok choy; Alsatian tart, with bacon, onion, Muenster, and crème fraîche; trio of mussels.

(Top) Chef Luc Holié with his wife, Ilda. (Above) Grand Marnier soufflé.

wait and burned off a few taste buds. The sweetsavory broth is the essence of caramelized onions, while the slice of bread inside sops it all up, making for a very filling dish. Pizza has nothing on an Alsatian tart, essentially a flatbread topped with bacon, onion, Muenster cheese, and a touch of crème fraîche. It’s simple but not to be missed. Holié is from Albi, in the south of France. His approach to cooking is to preserve and highlight the taste of the ingredients. Holié has worked on seafood extensively and his experience shines through. For example, a meaty swordfish is crusted in tomato powder, drizzled with a black olive broth—a taste from his corner of France—and served with sautéed bok choy ($29). For dessert, it’s easy to finish off with a French classic. The Paris-Brest, rarely seen on dinner menus, tastes as though hazelnuts had been turned into air—hazelnut cream sandwiched between two rings of choux pastry makes for a light sweet ending ($11), but you can never go wrong with a warm apple tart ($10) or an airy Grand Marnier soufflé either ($13). They’re all well-executed. The hard part is choosing.

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES

Jubilee 948 First Ave. (between 52nd & 53rd streets) Midtown East

212-888-3569, Jubilee.nyc Hours Open daily from noon

There are the restaurants you go to, and

The Restaurant You Go Back to.

I

n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan recipes. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular longtime local guests, out-of-towners

and the many celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available, pre-fixe luncheon menu noon till 3 p.m. ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3 p.m. till 7 p.m. ($59).

Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant

236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.Patsys.com

Kailash Parbat hails from Mumbai.

The Chole Bhatura with fiery curried chickpeas. A refreshing mango lassi.

Kailash Parbat ANNIE WU North India, with its abundance of wheat-growing regions, is home to a great variety of breads. Dough can be deep-fried, baked, or stretched into many layers. At Kailash Parbat, a restaurant chain founded in Mumbai, you’ll find all sorts of breakfast dishes commonly found at street vendors, featuring breads with an accompanying stew for dipping. There’s Chole Bhatura, a staple in the Punjabi region ($14.50). The bhatura bread, which puffs up like a balloon when deep-fried, is a little chewy, with a crispy exterior. Rip it apart to dip into the chana masala, or curried chickpeas. It is spicy enough to heat up your whole mouth and clear your sinuses. Kailash Parbat serves flavored bhatura, too, in fenugreek, masala, paneer (Indian cheese curds), and cheese.

Dal Pakwan is a dish unique to the Sindhis, an ethnic group whose origins trace back to Sindh Province in Pakistan. Curried lentils are served with a crispy flatbread (pakwan) that is studded with spices and breaks apart like a cracker. The lentils are hearty, but a green chutney (mint, coriander, and tamarind) and mango pickle lend some contrast ($10.99, served for Sunday lunch only). Perhaps the most comforting dish of them all is Pav Bhaji, consisting of a creamy, thick stew of tomatoes, potatoes, and other vegetables—it arrives at the table with a dollop of butter slowly melting on top ($12.99). The dish is a warming bowl, similar to chili but without the meat, in which you dip pieces of pav, or buttered bread rolls. Wash everything down with a mango lassi ($6.95), and you’ll be set to conquer the rest of the day.

Pav Bhaji, a stew of tomatoes, potatoes, and other vegetables, served with buttered bread rolls.

Kailash Parbat

99 Lexington Ave. (at 27th Street) Curry Hill 212-679-4238 KailashParbatNY.com Hours Open daily noon–10 p.m.

Authentic Japanese GMO FREE

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)

• Dessert

$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

2nd Location


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April 21–27, 2017 KEN HOWARD/METROPOLITAN OPERA; COURTESY OF CARL RAYMOND (CIRCLE)

TALKING DIM SUM AT THE MUSEUM OF CHINESE IN AMERICA SUNDAY, APRIL 23 Food writer and artist Carolyn Phillips will discuss the intricacies of dim sum, the Cantonese traditional small plates typically eaten for breakfast or brunch. Phillips will also talk about how she developed a career writing about food. 3:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. $15 per person, $25 with a copy of Phillips’s book “The Dim Sum Field Guide.” MocaNYC.org Museum of Chinese in America 215 Centre St. (between Howard & Grand streets) Chinatown

Chef and food historian Carl Raymond.

Divas and Dinner Series at The Met Opera ANNIE WU

I

n a previous life, chef and food historian Carl Raymond studied opera and sang in the Boston Concert Opera. Now he has channeled these two passions into a seminar series exploring the role of food in classic operas. “I’ve always looked for ways to deeply understand the operas I love; whether it was the time period in which an opera was set, or the background on character. Food, like architecture, fashion, and design, is another way to do that,” said Raymond, in an email interview. In the first talk, Raymond will discuss Gioachino Rossini’s works. The Italian composer was unique in that many crucial scenes in his operas were centered around food. “For example, in the great pappataci scene in ‘L’Italiana in Algeri,’ Rossini used a ruse involving the passions of eating and drinking to help the opera’s heroine escape with her lover. In ‘Il Viaggio a Reims,’ the planning of a

THURSDAY, MAY 4, 11 & 18 Opera Learning Center at Samuel B. and David Rose Building Sixth Floor 70 Lincoln Center Plaza (West 65th Street, between Broadway & Amsterdam Avenue) Upper West Side

grand dinner and then the scene at the dinner Prince Ramiro itself is the backdrop for some of his greatest (played by ensemble writing that shows the complex reJavier Camarena) lationships of the characters,” Raymond said. Raymond thinks Rossini had the mind of a and Cenerentola (played by chef. “He played with themes and variations Joyce DiDonato) just as a chef plays with flavor, and he orchesduring a 2014 trates an ensemble, aria, or overture to begin performance simply and end with great flair—just as so of Rossini’s many great meals tantalize you with the ap“La Cenerentola” petizer and end with a fabulous dessert.” at the In a talk about Giuseppe Verdi’s “La TraMetropolitan viata,” Raymond will explore Parisian cuisine Opera. in the 1830s, a time when great masters like Marie-Antoine Carême established principles of French gastronomy, while a discussion of “Don Giovanni” and “Carmen” will delve into the history of Spanish cuisine. Wine and hors d’oeuvres will be served. The whole series is $66 per person, $25 for individual sessions. ept.ms/DivasDinner

New & Noteworthy Coffeemania Launches Breakfast and Brunch ONGOING Coffeemania, a restaurant from Moscow, is now serving a daily breakfast and a weekend brunch. Options include Skillet Baked Eggs with roasted tomatoes and cheese, and topped with grilled shrimp; and Syrniki, fritters made of vanilla-inflected cottage cheese. CoffeemaniaNYC.com Coffeemania Restaurant 1065 Avenue of the Americas (at West 40th Street), Bryant Park

Pig Bleecker Launches Brunch

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

ONGOING Pig Bleecker’s new weekend brunch will feature some signature dishes from its lunch and dinner menu, such as the Smoked Turkey Club with applewood-smoked bacon and cilantro-jalapeño aioli; and new additions like buttermilk waffles with smoked and fried chicken thigh; and the Mezza Rigatoni with Sunday gravy, meatballs, and smoked ricotta salata. PigBleeckerNYC.com Pig Bleecker 155 Bleecker St. (at Thompson Street) Greenwich Village

Friend of a Farmer’s Spring Menu ONGOING Farm-to-table restaurant Friend of a Farmer is now serving dishes with spring ingredients, such as the Mushroom Cavatelli with wild mushrooms, green peas, and Parmesan cheese; and Duo of Lamb with purple mashed potato, shallot confit, and watermelon radish. FriendOfAFarmer.com Friend of a Farmer 77 Irving Place (between East 18th & East 19th streets), Gramercy Park 76 Montague St. (between Hicks Street & Montague Terrace), Brooklyn Heights

Compiled by Annie Wu

TEN SHADES OF ROSE AT BLUE WATER GRILL WEDNESDAY, APRIL 26 Union Square seafood restaurant Blue Water Grill is hosting a special dinner featuring 10 rosé wines from France, Spain, Italy, and California. During the first hour, a variety of flavored oysters will be passed around to sample with the wines. The following hour will feature chef-curated canapés, after which petit fours and artisanal cheeses will be served. 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. $75 per person. BlueWaterGrillRose. Eventbrite.com Blue Water Grill 31 Union Square West (at East 16th Street) Union Square

WINE AND SPIRITS MAGAZINE ‘TOP OF THE LIST’ WINE TASTING THURSDAY, APRIL 27 Wine & Spirits Magazine is holding its an annual wine tasting of the most popular varietals from top restaurants in America, paired with food prepared by New York’s top chefs, including those from Il Buco Alimentari & Vineria, Indian Accent, Fung Tu, Narcissa, Noreetuh, and Sushi Seki. 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. $85 to $125 per person. WineAndSpiritsMagazine. com/toplist 404 NYC 404 10th Ave. (between 32nd & 33rd streets) Midtown West

BLUE BAYOU FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH AT BLUE RIBBON THROUGH SUNDAY, APRIL 30 Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken’s April special is a Southerninspired creation: fried chicken with hush puppies, smothered in corn remoulade and topped with Louisiana’s Crystal Hot Sauce and pickled okra. $8.50. BlueRibbonFriedChicken.com Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken 28 E. First St. (at Second Avenue) East Village

FARM TO TRAY BENEFIT FOR SOUP KITCHEN THURSDAY, MAY 18 Located in the Chelsea neighborhood, Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen has been serving hungry and homeless New Yorkers for 35 years. Its annual benefit, Farm to Tray, features tasting menus from local, sustainable produce. The chef lineup includes Lauren DeSteno from Vaucluse, Laurence Edelman from Left Bank, Yvan Lemoine from Union Fare, Michael Armstrong from Bodega Negra, and more. Begins at 7 p.m. $150 to $750 per person. FarmToTray.org Holy Apostles Soup Kitchen 296 Ninth Ave. (near West 28th Street) Chelsea


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April 21–27, 2017

D5

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/THE EPOCH TIMES

A colorful array of classic Korean dishes, alongside banchan, or side dishes, at missKOREA.

Lunching on Korean Classics at missKOREA M missKOREA BBQ 10 W. 32nd St. Koreatown MissKoreaBbq.com missKOREA JIN The First 212-594-4963

Hours Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week missKOREA SUN The Second 212-736-3232 Hours Sunday–Wednesday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Thursday–Saturday 11 a.m.–midnight missKOREA MEE The Third 212-594-7766 Hours Sunday–Wednesday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Thursday–Saturday 11 a.m.–midnight

Bibimbap, a popular rice dish with vegetables, is served in a stone pot.

Deliciously Sponsored

idtown Manhattan is known for its limited options for good eating at lunchtime. If you want a filling meal that is flavorful and doesn’t just satiate your hunger, missKOREA in Koreatown will leave you feeling happy. MissKOREA is a mainstay in the neighborhood, serving a comprehensive selection of Korean staple dishes with a bent towards clean, healthy preparation—unlike many restaurants that layer on the sodium and sugar. For example, bulgolgi, that ubiquitous dish of marinated beef grilled on a barbecue, is handled with special attention to the sweetness level in the marinade. If you’ve had bulgogi before, you’ll know that some versions are simply too cloying. Owner Sophia Lee explained that missKOREA’s version uses a combination of Korean pears, apples, and onions for sweetness, rather than relying on just sugar. Finding that perfect balance between sweet and savory is a test of mastery. The restaurant even uses a device to test the sweetness levels, ensuring they’re just right. For lunch, missKOREA serves a special Yuksu Bulgogi ($17.95). The thinly sliced beef is cooked on a traditional copper grill, featuring a dome shape with a gutter around its rim. As the beef cooks, its fat dribbles down to the gutter below, which has been filled with beef broth, along with glass noodles, enoki mushrooms, and other vegetables. Once the beef sizzles, which signifies it’s ready to eat, you dip slices of it into the broth. Each bite is filled with succulent meat juices, lightly sweet and rich thanks to a marinade that includes potent garlic and savory spring onions. As Lee would explain, not all fat is bad for you, so you can indulge a little in this succulent dish.

As much as Korean cuisine is associated with Korean barbecue, the country actually ate little meat prior to the past few decades. Lee explained that meat was only eaten on special occasions; more often, everyday meals cooked at home consisted of vegetables grown on the mountainside—owing to Korea’s mostly mountainous landscape. Bibimbap, meaning “mixed rice,” is a classic dish consisting of seasonal vegetables, rice, and an egg. MissKOREA’s version includes carrots, red bell peppers, zucchini, bean sprouts, mushrooms, radishes, lettuce, watercress, mung bean jelly, and seaweed. The vegetables change slightly according to season. The Dolsot Bibimbap is served in a hot stone pot, which crispens the rice at the bottom for a delightful layer of chewy and crunchy rice ($14.95). Meanwhile, the different textures and colors of the ingredients tantalize the eyes and taste buds. The varying colors represent the harmony of the five elements. MissKOREA also makes a Jeonju Bibimbap, named after the city in the western part of the Korean peninsula that is renowned for making the most excellent bibimbap ($12.95). In this version, rice is cooked in beef broth, giving it extra umami. If you’re in the mood for seafood, missKOREA’s Haemul Pajeon, or seafood pancake, will more than satisfy. It’s studded with hefty bits of squid, shrimp, and scallions. The chewy textures in both the dough and the seafood fillings make for fun noshing. Lee calls them Korea’s version of pizza. Sometimes lunch needs to be a restorative meal that gives you energy to get back to work. Samgyetang, or chicken ginseng soup, provides plenty of nutrients ($15.95). The broth is made from simmering a young hen— it must be an eight-ounce young chicken for the best possible tenderness, Lee explained— and a bevy of herbs for 48 hours. They include astralagus root, good for the immune system; angelica sinensis, good for blood circulation; and of course, ginseng, which helps clear out toxins and enhance strength, Lee said. The flavors of chicken and energy-boosting herbs hit your taste buds with surprising intensity. Each spoonful of the soup also contains bits of glutinous rice, rendered soft and fluffy after cooking for so long. If you’re pinched for time, missKOREA also makes take-out lunch boxes for eaters on the go. Rice and an array of banchan (side dishes) accompany a choice of protein: galbi (marinated beef short ribs), bulgolgi, spicy pork stir-fried in gochujang (fermented red pepper paste), and marinated chicken ($9.95). It’s a hearty meal at an affordable price. Lunch served from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m., except on weekends and holidays.

A healthy take on Korean dishes means less sodium and sugar.

A lunch box featuring spicy pork stir-fried in gochujang, or red pepper paste.

Grilling bulgogi the traditional way: on a copper grill with extra broth for dipping.

The bulgogi is marinated in soy sauce, Korean pears, apples, and onions.


D6

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April 21–27, 2017

A Light Salmon Dish for Springtime

SARAH CROWDER VIA AP

A Serve with polenta.

An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel •

s Mother Nature nudges spring along, it’s time to dream of the fresh, light meals that go hand in hand with this time of year. How about a bright, rich pink piece of salmon perched atop a bed of polenta, piled with a mound of roasted cherry tomatoes, collapsed into their own sweetness? Well, all right then, we’re on the same page. When I want my filets of fish to look perfect, I like to start them in a hot pan and then transfer them to the oven to finish cooking, rather than flipping them in the pan. That way, they stay intact and beautiful. If you decide to use salmon

Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar • ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) • (212) 581-1581

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE

at el Pote

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria

Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, familyfriendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” From The Associated Press

RECIPE SALMON WITH POLENTA AND WARM TOMATO VINAIGRETTE

The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu • Shochu & sake • Exceptional value

with the skin on, starting them skin down in a hot pan also ensures that delicious crispiness. You could add any number of things to the topping here: chopped olives, different herbs, or capers. A small bunch of daffodils on the table wouldn’t hurt either.

Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves 4 • 1 1/2 cups chicken broth • 2 1/2 cups whole milk • 1 cup cornmeal or polenta • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste • 3 tablespoons olive oil, divided • 1 shallot, chopped • 1 pint multi-colored cherry tomatoes, halved • 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves • 1 tablespoon sherry or red wine vinegar • 4 salmon filets (6- to 8-ounce each), with skin if desired • 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 450 F. In a heavy Dutch oven or large (4-quart) saucepan, bring the broth and milk to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat and sprinkle in the polenta, whisking all the while and adjusting the heat so that the mixture stays at a gentle simmer. Season with salt and pepper. Continue to simmer and whisk semi-frequently until the mixture has thickened and become creamy, about 20 minutes. While the polenta is cooking, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet, preferably nonstick, over medium heat. Add the shallot and sauté for 2 minutes, then add the tomatoes and oregano and sauté for another 4 minutes or so, until the tomatoes

have collapsed slightly. Transfer the tomatoes to a bowl, stir in the vinegar, and tent with foil to keep warm. Return the pan to medium-high heat and heat the remaining tablespoon of oil. Season the salmon with salt and pepper. Place the salmon skin side down (if applicable) in the hot pan and sear for 4 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast the fish for about 5 minutes, until cooked to your liking. Meanwhile, when the polenta has finished cooking, remove it from the heat and whisk in the Parmesan and the butter. Taste, and add pepper and additional salt if needed. Divide the polenta among 4 plates. Use a metal spatula to transfer the salmon filets on top of the polenta, and spoon some of the tomato vinaigrette over it. Serve hot. Recipe by Katie Workman

Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque

Stuck for a Side Dish? Grab a Few Oranges and Add Toppings

Juicy Lamb Chops

MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

Colin Hagendorf sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.

NY Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *

AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.

Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939

Awarded One of the 10

BEST PIZZAS IN NYC

Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.

My mom was a wannabe urban farmer long before it was cool. Living in the city limits didn’t stop us from growing our own veggies in a backyard garden that flanked a huge handmade chicken coop, where we raised hens for eggs. (I’ll take this opportunity to apologize to our neighbors, especially for the year we accidentally acquired a rooster, and the year after when we ended up with 38 clucking egg-layers as a result of said rooster.) Today, raising your own food is trendy, but back then we did it because it was cheap. As a kid, I remember being sent to the backyard to grab a snack. I’d forego the plethora of fuzzy zucchini, and grab either a tomato or an orange. Biting into a sun-warmed fruit, laced with just the tiniest bit of clinging dirt (I never bothered with the hose), and sweet juice dripping down my chin in the dry heat of Tucson, Arizona, is a memory stuck in my bones. No surprise oranges and tomatoes were interchangeable snacks, both of them sweet, acidic, and juicy. Turns out, oranges and tomatoes are worthy swaps for each other in a host of raw recipes. So if you are out of tomatoes, or they are simply out of season, consider using oranges instead. The additional sweetness is a welcome twist in most recipes—try oranges in your caprese salad—but if you want a less sweet option, use grapefruit, or a combination of cucumber and oranges instead. When you are stuck for a side dish, grab a few oranges from the fruit basket, slice them up, lay them out on a platter, and add whatever tasty toppings you have on hand—avocado, chopped scallions or shallots, nuts, seeds, fresh herbs, spicy greens, leftover rotisserie chicken, or a drizzle of pesto are just a few ideas. This Orange and Cucumber Layered Salad with Shrimp is a mere suggestion to help you start your own creative version. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press

RECIPE ORANGE AND CUCUMBER LAYERED SALAD WITH SHRIMP Total Time: 30 minutes Serves 2 • 1 medium navel or cara cara orange (or grapefruit), peeled, sliced, membrane and seeds removed • 1 medium blood red orange, peeled, sliced, membrane and seeds removed • 1/2 English cucumber, thinly sliced • 1/4 medium avocado, sliced • 1/4 fennel bulb, core removed, thinly sliced • 1/4 small red onion, thinly sliced, soaked in ice water, then dried • 1 cup watercress (or arugula or other favorite greens)

• 6 ounces steamed shrimp • 1 tablespoon toasted pumpkin seeds (or other nut or seed) • 1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or orange juice • 2 teaspoons high quality extra-virgin olive oil • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/4 teaspoon black pepper • Optional: Chopped fennel fronds, for garnish

DIRECTIONS Layer the orange slices and cucumber on a platter. Top with the avocado slices, fennel slices, red onion, watercress, shrimp, and pumpkin seeds. Squeeze the lemon or orange juice over the whole salad, and then drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and fennel fronds, if using. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian


D7

@EpochTaste

April 21–27, 2017

Roasted Asparagus Toasts Make an Elegant Spring Brunch Here’s a special dish tailor-made for an elegant spring brunch. It requires slightly more than the usual amount of work, but it’s so worth it. Most of the recipe’s several components can be prepared ahead of time, then reheated and assembled at the last minute. The base is artisanal toast brushed with olive oil and topped with roasted asparagus. The asparagus can be prepped and pre-roasted, then warmed in the oven before serving. The béarnaise can be prepped just short of stirring in the fresh tarragon and kept covered and chilled until the moment of truth. You can poach your eggs as much as a day ahead. I have an idiot-proof method for poaching eggs that will change your life if you love eating poached eggs but you’re wary of making

SARA MOULTON VIA AP

them. So if nothing else here grabs you, please pay attention to the poaching. I encourage you to coat and deep-fry the eggs for a taste of something ethereal and to put this dish over the top. But if you’re not a fan of deep-frying, poaching the eggs will be enough. Your guests will be delighted anyway. Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “HomeCooking 101.” From The Associated Press

You can poach the eggs a day ahead.

RECIPE ROASTED ASPARAGUS TOASTS WITH POACHED FRIED EGGS AND CHEATING BEARNAISE Prep & Cooking Time: 1 1/2 hours Serves 4 For the Asparagus

• 16 thick asparagus, trimmed and peeled • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil • Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste For the Béarnaise

• • • • • • • •

1/4 cup finely chopped shallot 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 2 tablespoons dry white wine 2 teaspoons dried tarragon Kosher salt, to taste 4 ounces Neufchatel cheese 1/4 cup whole milk 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh tarragon leaves • Black pepper, to taste For the Eggs

• • • •

5 large eggs Vegetable oil, for deep-frying 1/4 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup coarse fresh bread crumbs (made by pulsing homemade style white bread in a food processor or blender) • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

• 4 slices artisanal bread, toasted and brushed with extra-virgin olive oil

DIRECTIONS Roast the Asparagus: Heat the oven to 425 F. On a rimmed sheet pan, toss the asparagus with the oil, salt, and pepper to taste, and roast on a shelf in the top third of the oven until just tender but not browned, about 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and set it aside. Reduce the oven to 350 F. Make the Béarnaise: In a small saucepan, combine the shallot, vinegar, wine, dried tarragon, and a hefty pinch of salt. Bring the mixture to a boil; reduce the heat to low and simmer 3 to 4 minutes until the liquid has been reduced to about 1 tablespoon. Add the Neufchatel, a tablespoon at a time, and whisk until it has been incorporated. Whisk in the milk, fresh tarragon, and salt and pepper to taste, and remove the sauce from the heat while you prepare the eggs. Prepare the Eggs: In a deep, straight-sided skillet, add 2 inches water and bring it to a boil. Break an egg into a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl. Tilt the egg around in the strainer and bang the strainer a few times on top of the bowl to let all the loose egg white fall through the strainer. (This ensures that the poached egg has no straggly white; if you don’t mind straggly whites, skip this step.) Repeat with 3 of the remaining eggs,

transferring the drained eggs to individual ramekins or small bowls. Discard the loose whites. When the water has come to a boil, turn off the burner, very gently slide the eggs into the water and cover the pan. Cook the eggs, in the residual heat for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes or until they have reached the desired degree of doneness. Using a slotted spoon carefully transfer the eggs to a bowl of ice and water to cool for 5 minutes and then to a plate lined with paper towels.

In a large deep saucepan, heat 2 inches of oil to 365 F. In a shallow bowl, beat the remaining egg with 1 tablespoon water. Spread the flour on a piece of parchment. Spread the bread crumbs on a second piece of parchment and toss with the salt. Working carefully so as not to break the yolk, coat each egg with the flour, dip it in the beaten egg and finally coat it with the crumbs. Working in two batches, gently transfer the breaded eggs with a large slotted spoon to the oil and let them fry for 15 to 20 seconds or until golden. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. To serve: Place a piece of toast on each of 4 plates, top each piece with four stalks of asparagus and spoon some of the béarnaise over the asparagus. Top with an egg and serve right away. Recipe by Sara Moulton

From The Associated Press

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Mustard and Sherry Inspire Adult-Friendly Chicken Tenders

Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.”

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Return the asparagus to the oven to reheat it and warm the béarnaise on the stove.

MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP

I mentioned to my husband recently that I had mastered an oven-baked chicken tender recipe, and his response was a little underwhelming— dismissive, even. It sounded like a healthier version of a restaurant kid’s meal, and frankly, he wasn’t interested. At the dinner table, however, I served them to the family, calling the dish “fried chicken” to my husband, and “chicken tenders” to my kiddos. I’m a big believer in cooking only one meal for the whole family—I’m not a short-order cook—but certainly the name could vary a little? Success on all fronts! My husband is the fried chicken lover of the bunch, and he was sold on the chicken—crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside, no dipping sauce needed. The secret to this adult-friendly chicken tender recipe is a few hours in a simple low-cal marinade made of sherry and Dijon mustard, which tenderizes the chicken and then serves as the glue for panko bread crumbs. Using panko means lots of texture and crunch without an overly heavy coating. Spraying the tenders with an oil mister combined with high oven heat work together to create a crispy crust—not quite fried, but pretty darned close.

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RECIPE DIJON AND SHERRY OVEN CHICKEN TENDERS Prep & Cooking Time: 35 minutes, plus marinating time Serves 4 • 1/4 cup Dijon mustard • 1/4 cup dry sherry (or other fortified wine, such as Marsala or Madeira or Port) • 1 teaspoon dried Italian herbs, or dried herbes de provence, or dried tarragon • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1 1/2 pounds boneless skinless chicken breast tenders, or boneless skinless chicken breast cut into strips about one-inch wide and three inches long • 1 cup panko bread crumbs • Olive oil in a spray mister (or nonstick spray)

and pepper in a large resealable plastic bag and mix the contents. Add the chicken to the bag and coat well with the mustard mixture. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 1 to 8 hours. Once ready to bake, heat the oven to 400 F. Fit a baking rack on a large baking sheet. (Cover the baking sheet with foil to catch drips and make clean up easier.) Lightly grease the baking rack with olive oil to keep the chicken from sticking. Place the bread crumbs on a plate and use a fork to remove chicken tenders from the marinade and toss in crumbs to coat on all sides. Place the breaded chicken tenders on the baking rack on the baking sheet and spray the top of the chicken lightly with the olive oil mister. Bake the chicken until cooked through to 160 degrees, about 20 to 25 minutes. Serve.

DIRECTIONS

Cook’s Note: Add 1 tablespoon of honey to the marinade for honey-mustard tenders.

Place the mustard, sherry, herbs, salt,

Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian

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D8

@EpochTaste

April 21–27, 2017

Openings around NYC ALL PHOTOS BY DANIEL KRIEGER

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the

KOREAN DYNASTY

South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine

The cafe is named after the garden’s yellow magnolias.

Brooklyn Botanic Garden Gets a New Restaurant

The Ancient Grain Bowl.

Patina Restaurant Group and the Brooklyn Botanic Garden have opened Yellow Magnolia Café, a vegetable-focused restaurant at the garden. It is named for the garden’s yellow magnolias and was built in a greenhouse from 1917, located alongside the renovated Palm House. The latter is open for weddings and private events. Exclusively for visitors, the Yellow Magnolia Café will make use of select, seasonal produce from the garden, as well as ingredients from local farms and purveyors. Rob Newton is the chef. “It’s been a pleasure working on this project, planning the menus, and knowing that this is the restaurant that the garden deserves,” Newton said, in a press release.” The food needs to be clean and light, with lots of vegetables, to fit the natural setting.”

The menu includes spring vegetable crudité, strawberry-ricotta crostini, and heirloom red dent corn polenta fries. Meat eaters need not fear—there’s a grass-fed burger and fried chicken with collard green slaw. Among the weekend brunch dishes are beet latke Benedict and blood orange French toast brûlée. Open daily, when the garden is open.

Southern-Inspired 33 Greenwich Opens in West Village

New Orleans sandwich; and a dry-aged meatloaf burger, topped with Gruyère, caramelized onion, mushrooms, and a red wine tomato jam. Thornton’s dessert list includes pies and cakes for two, such as coconut layer cake served with a chocolate dipping sauce, and her award-winning salted-caramel banana pudding pie. Open for Monday through Saturday for dinner. Sundays and brunch service are coming soon.

Chef Anne Thornton (formerly of The Waverly Inn and L.A.’s Little Pine) helms the kitchen at the new Southern-inspired restaurant 33 Greenwich in the West Village. Thornton, influenced by classic coastal Southern and New Orleans cuisine, has on the menu Short Ribs for Two, with roasted maitake mushrooms and pearl onions; the Muffaletta Board, a deconstructed version of the famous

Badshah Opens in Hell’s Kitchen Restaurateur Abishek Sharma (Surya, Swagat) is teaming up with Charles Mani (former executive chef at Babu Ji) to open Badshah in Hell’s Kitchen. The menu features dishes inspired by Indian street food, updated classics, and a tasting menu of four appetizers and five curry selections. Highlights of the menu include South-

Yellow Magnolia Café

Brooklyn Botanic Garden 1000 Washington Ave. (enter at 990 Washington Ave., between President & Carroll streets) Brooklyn 718-307-7136 YellowMagnoliaCafe.com

33 Greenwich

33 Greenwich Ave. (between Charles & West 10th streets), West Village 646-609-3615 33Greenwich.nyc

ern Style Mussels, served in a spiced tamarind and tomato broth with coriander, cumin, and black pepper; Clove Smoked Lamb Chops; and Clay-Pot Kulfi, traditional Indian ice cream. Open daily from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Badshah

788 Ninth Ave. (between West 52nd & 53rd streets) Hell’s Kitchen 646-649-2407 BadshahNY.com

Sandwicherie Expands With Union Square Location Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

212-594-4963 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours

Sandwicherie, currently in Midtown East, is opening a 1,400-square-foot, 30-seat second location, in Union Square on April 26. The madeto-order sandwich spot offers options named after New York City neighborhoods. Examples include the Union Square, with flame-grilled steak, tomato relish, avocado, and citrus-cilantro aioli; and the Riverside, with grilled Cajun wild salmon, grilled onions, tomato relish, and fresh herb aioli. New “Bowls of Goodness” will offer a choice of grilled proteins served over greens or grains, plus 25 mix-ins to choose from and housemade

dips, such as tzatziki, smashed beet and tahini, and Muhammara (red pepper and walnut). Salads, pastas, soups, and breakfast items are also available. An opening promotion features a choice of a $5 Bowl of Goodness or sandwich, along with a complimentary beverage from April 26 to April 28, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Mulberry & Vine Opens Third Location in Midtown East

Dishes include rotating specials, such as beet and apple salad with tarragon and pistachio vinaigrette, as well as signatures like charred avocado with pumpkin seed-yogurt puree and roasted salmon with herb salad. Its beverage menu includes a section dedicated to water, called “Drink More Water,” that offers flavor combinations like lemon, charcoal, and cayenne; beet, aloe vera, and ginger; and cucumber, cilantro, and lemon. Open Monday through Saturday for lunch and dinner. Breakfast to come.

Fast-casual eatery Mulberry and Vine is opening a third, 30-seat outpost, in Midtown East. To celebrate the opening, it will offer a $5 “pick three” plate or bowl items on April 21 and 22. In the following weeks, they will offer a new breakfast menu, exclusive to the location. Vegan and gluten-free baked goods, organic egg wraps, and sweet and savory porridges (one will feature turmeric, spinach, chickpeas, and coconut) will be on the menu.

Sandwicherie of New York

127 Fourth Ave. (at 13th Street), Union Square Sandwicherie.com

Mulberry & Vine Midtown East

155 E. 44th St. (between Lexington & Third avenues) Midtown East MulberryAndVine.com

Compiled by Channaly Philipp


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