ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 April 7–13, 2017 A Really Good
Quite British Cookbook on D6
www.EpochTaste.com
A Love Letter to Sicily
(Clockwise from top L) Wild boar meatballs with Mount Etna truffles and porcini mushrooms; orange-fennel salad; grilled Sicilian sardines; busiati pasta with branzino, lemon, and cherry tomatoes; and Greek salad.
A vintage Piaggio Ape displays fresh seafood.
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
N
autical ropes hang from the ceilings like drapery. Here and there are photos of seaside scenes: sailboats adrift and men working with fishing nets. And parked in the back is a vintage, aqua-green Piaggio Ape—well, just the front half, looking like a chopped up Vespa. Not only that, but there’s an unexpected sight on the dashboard—calamari, lobster, fish, and scampi sticking out from a bed of ice. See Sicily on D2
Piccola Cucina Estiatorio
75 Thompson St. (between Spring & Broome streets) SoHo PiccolaCucinaGroup.com Hours Sunday–Thursday 5 p.m.–11 p.m. Friday & Saturday 5 p.m.–midnight
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April 7–13, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
A Love Letter to Sicily Sicily continued from D1 Stepping into Piccola Cucina Estiatorio is like spending a lazy afternoon on the coast of Sicily. Light streams through the big windows into the wide-open dining room, as chatter from the Italian-speaking staff occasionally reverberates. It’s not just seafood that is the focus at this SoHo restaurant, which just opened in March, but specifically Sicilian seafood, imported daily. “The waters of Sicily are more salty,” said chef and restaurateur Philip Guardione, “so the fish is more tasty.” A different fish is featured every day. Guests can hand-pick from the seafood cart, then order their fish cooked according to their preferred preparation, along with an accompanying side dish. Guardione is convinced almost everything from the island is more flavorful. From the famed citrus fruits to the flour for making
pasta, Sicilian ingredients cannot be replaced, said Guardione, who also operates two other Sicilian restaurants under the Piccola Cucina Group in New York City. He insists on using them in his dishes. Guardione hails from the town of Francavilla di Sicilia, which, he explained, retains more of the Greek influence, among the long line of colonizers who once inhabited Sicily and left behind their culture. The ancient Greeks were the first documented occupiers, followed by the Romans, Vandals, Goths, Byzantines, and Arabs. Greek cooking is simple: Grilling is a common preparation, and food is lightly seasoned, typically with olive oil, capers, salt, and pepper. “There are no more than two or three [main] ingredients in each dish,” Guardione said. And absolutely no butter in the kitchen. So a plate of Sicilian sardines, simply grilled, allows the fish to shine. They possess that char-
I don’t do anything different from my grandmother. Philip Guardione, chef and owner, Piccola Cucina Group
SHUTTERSTOCK
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
Guardione hails from Francavilla di Sicilia, where the ancient Greeks have left their mark.
acteristically strong sardine flavor, but are not oily at all. Their intensity is cut with slices of lemon and diced tomatoes. In an orange-fennel salad, dressed only with olive oil, the ever-so-sweet Sicilian oranges complement crunchy wild fennel, with sprinkled fennel fronds adding a dash of herbaceousness ($10). Refreshingly, Guardione doesn’t try to reinvent the wheel. The recipes at Piccola Cucina Estiatorio are all traditional and feature Sicily’s specialty ingredients. “I don’t do anything different from my grandmother,” he said. Sicily is known for its diverse array of antipasti, or appetizers, especially fried snacks like arancini. These fried rice balls are seasoned with saffron and stuffed with melted mozzarella and beef ($11). Eating them is like having risotto in miniature form. Each region of Italy has its unique types of pasta, and in Sicily, the classic is busiati. This noodle is shaped like pieces of rope, loose coils with openings in between—all the better for picking up accompanying sauces. Traditionally, the pasta is shaped by hand around a rod. At Piccola, Guardione pairs the pasta with bits of branzino, julienned lemon, and cherry tomatoes. The strong acidic notes make the dish pleasantly light ($19). Meanwhile, Mount Etna, an active volcano on Sicily’s east coast, spews mineral-rich volcanic ash that turns the soil incredibly fertile. The earth there gives rise to many distinctive foods. Guardione uses porcini mushrooms and black truffles grown on Mount Etna to make an aromatic ragù for a dish of wild boar meatballs ($14). These lean meatballs, sourced from Sicily, and mixed with fennel seeds, sun-dried tomatoes, peppers, and other spices, are excellent on their own. But that ragù, with an almost woodsy character, gives the dish extra oomph. The terroir also lends potency to Sicilian wines. The wine list, curated by restaurant manager Alfio Scrivano and Guardione’s wife, Monica Monfasani, features small-scale wineries. “Because of the active soil, when you taste the wine, they taste like something that’s alive,” Scrivano said. Almonds make a big showing in traditional Sicilian pastries and sweets. For a light dessert, try the almond milk pudding, silky smooth and topped with sliced almonds, mint, and strawberry coulis ($10). Now, if only Guardione would add a napping hammock to the back of that cute Piaggio Ape, it would be the full Sicilian experience.
A plate of Sicilian sardines accompanied by a Greek salad. Chef Philip Guardione with his young daughter, Greta.
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
sagaponacknyc.com
Almond milk pudding with sliced almonds and strawberry coulis. Dining at the restaurant feels like spending a lazy afternoon in Sicily.
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Put a Little Spring in Your Hummus With
Roasted Carrots H ummus generally contains five basic ingredients: chickpeas, tahini, lemon, garlic, and olive oil. Once you have these ingredients combined, it is easy to add other herbs, spices, and even roasted carrots—like I do here—to flavor and season basic hummus. In the early spring, I love to roast fresh carrots until they are deeply caramelized and puree them to add to the base of chickpeas and tahini. To deepen the golden color, I add a touch of turmeric. The combined result is a deep golden yellow hummus that is the perfect color for daffodil season. Served with flatbread for breakfast in some Mediterranean countries, the protein-rich and fiber-filled chickpeas make hummus a good way to start the day. Although hummus is sold at virtually all supermarkets, it is so easy to prepare that you really should start making it yourself. Frankly, it also tastes much better than store bought. The secret to creating the creamiest and freshest hummus is making sure that the skins of the chickpeas are removed and discarded. Many brands of cooked and canned chickpeas come mostly skinless, so this is not as labor-intensive as it may sound, and it’s well worth the effort. I tested this recipe both ways and the skinless creamy texture made all the difference in the world. The skin-on version was rougher and chunkier and the texture took away from the delicate nature of the hummus. Serve the hummus with crudités for a springy colorful snack or appetizer and pita chips. I like pita with a light brush of olive oil and a sprinkling of coarse salt and za’atar. Once they are seasoned, you can cut them into triangles—six per pita bread is a good size—and bake them in a 350 F oven until they are crisp.
Serve the hummus with crudités for a springy colorful snack or appetizer and pita chips.
RECIPE
S
T HU
T
S ER
Heat oven to 350 F.
Prep & Cooking Time: 50 minutes Makes 16 as appetizer
Roast carrots until they are deeply caramelized.
Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pitmaster at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and the author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.” From The Associated Press
DIRECTIONS
ROASTED CARROT HUMMUS
C TO
• 1/2 cup well-roasted carrots, cut into small pieces (about 6 small carrots) • Juice of 2 lemons, plus more as needed (about 2 ounces) • Zest of 1 lemon • 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnishing hummus • 2 generous tablespoons tahini (sesame paste), with some of its oil • Two 15-ounce cans drained chickpeas, liquid reserved and skins removed • 2 cloves garlic, peeled, or to taste • 1 teaspoon sea salt, or more to taste • 1/4 teaspoon of white pepper or pinch of cayenne pepper • 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin • 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric • Paprika, a sprinkling for garnish • Curly parsley for garnish • Pita chips, homemade or store-bought • Raw vegetables
K
Coat carrots with oil and season with salt. Place on a sheet pan and roast carrots. Remove from oven when soft and browned in places, about 30 minutes depending on the size of your carrots. Cut into small pieces and set aside. Place carrots in a food processor with the lemon juice, lemon zest, tahini, and olive oil and process until smooth, about 1 minute. Put remaining ingredients except the paprika and the parsley in a food processor and begin to process; add a couple of tablespoons of the chickpea liquid and more olive oil as needed to allow the machine to produce a smooth puree. The amount will vary every time you make it, based on how much liquid is in the chickpeas. Taste and adjust the seasoning (I often add more lemon juice). Serve immediately or chilled in a shallow bowl with pita chips and raw vegetables, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with a bit of paprika and some parsley. Will keep up to five days in refrigerator. Recipe by Elizabeth Karmel
A Flavorful Chicken Dish for Early Spring A richly flavored and warming meal is still very welcome at this time of year. Tender chicken thighs can sit for an extra bit of time in the oven without drying out. A sauce dense with onions, lemon, and olives also keeps the meat moist and hits nice notes of savory, sweet, tart, and salty. A bit of hot sauce keeps it lively. If you have a huge pan you can double the recipe, or just make two pans’
worth for a bigger group. You could serve this right from the pan, or move the cooked chicken to a plate for a moment, transfer the onions and olives and all of the wonderful sauce to a shallow serving platter, and then place the chicken back on top. Serve with a big bowl of mashed potatoes, or maybe even polenta. From The Associated Press
SARAH CROWDER VIA AP
RECIPE CHICKEN THIGHS WITH ONIONS AND GREEN OLIVES Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 40 minutes Serves 4 to 6 • • • • • • • • • • • • •
3 pounds chicken thighs (about 6 to 8) 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon cumin 1 teaspoon paprika 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 2 tablespoons olive oil 4 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced 1 cup chicken broth 1 cup pitted green olives, halved 1 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Sriracha 1 lemon, cut into 8 wedges 1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Pat the chicken dry. Combine the salt, cumin, paprika, pepper, and allspice. Rub the spice mixture evenly onto the thighs, on both sides. Heat the oil in a very large, deep, ovenproof
skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken thighs and brown on both sides, about 5 minutes per side, and then transfer them to a paper-towel-lined surface. Do this in batches if necessary. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat left in the pan, reduce the heat to medium low, and add the onions. Cook, stirring frequently, for about 20 minutes until they are very soft and browned, but do not allow them to get too dark; adjust the heat as necessary. You can add a tablespoon of water from time to time if they appear to be getting too brown.
HAUTE PRIVATE EVENTS There are private events in Manhattan, and then there are private events at Cava Nerai. Head downstairs to our new romantic stone wine cellar— born from the idea to provide you with the finest setting possible for private events. Whether you’re having a business meeting with partners, entertaining those special clients, or throwing the perfect baby shower, Cava Nerai has the customizable space you need—and an excellent wine selection sure to make the occasion memorable.
Stir in the broth, olives, hot sauce, and lemon wedges. Return all of the chicken to the pan, skin side up, nestling the pieces into the sauce. Cover the pan, place in the oven, and bake for about 30 minutes. Remove the lid and bake for another 15 minutes, until the chicken is cooked and tender and the skin is crisped. Sprinkle with the parsley before serving. Recipe by Katie Workman
55 E. 54th St. New York, NY 10022 Nerai.NYC
212.759.5554
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April 7–13, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF BILLY DURNEY
EASTER SMORGASBORD BRUNCH AT AQUAVIT SUNDAY, APRIL 16 Nordic restaurant Aquavit will serve a feast of traditional Scandinavian Easter dishes, like smoked black forest ham, lamb racks, king crab salad, pyttipanna (a Swedish hash dish), chilled nettle soup, and more. Noon to 2:30 p.m. $95 per person. Aquavit.org Aquavit 65 E. 55th St. (between Park & Madison avenues) Midtown East COURTESY OF BENOIT
SPECIAL EASTER MENU AT MACHIAVELLI
Benoit and Hometown Bar-B-Que Join Forces for Le Cochon & Co. Dinner Series lain Ducasse’s French bistro Benoit and Brooklyn favorite Hometown Bar-B-Que have partnered for a dinner series fusing French techniques with American barbecue traditions. Every Tuesday this month, a unique menu will be served, featuring dishes such as pulled lamb belly with spring vegetables, cooking jus, and vinaigrette; deviled egg with barbecue rub and chicken cracklings; beef consommé with sliced smoked pork jowl and crispy pork cracklings; and St. Louis pork ribs served with French-style mustard coleslaw and cornbread madeleines. Pitmaster Billy Durney has been smoking meats since he was a youngster and learned to barbecue from his grandparents in rural Pennsylvania, while Benoit’s newly appointed executive chef Laetitia Rouabah brings a contemporary touch to French cuisine. $95 per person.
THROUGH TUESDAY, APRIL 25
(Top) Pitmaster Billy Durney with Benoit’s executive chef Laetitia Rouabah.
Benoit 60 W. 55th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) Midtown
The dining room at Benoit. COURTESY OF BENOIT
STUFFED RED BELL PEPPERS Makes 6 servings Stuffing: • 1 small eggplant, about 1 pound, cut into 1⁄2-inch cubes 1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for greasing • 1 garlic clove, minced • 1 cup canned crushed tomatoes • 1⁄4 cup coarsely chopped pitted kalamata olives • 2 tablespoons drained nonpareil capers, rinsed • 1 anchovy fillet in oil, finely chopped • 1⁄4 cup chopped fresh basil • Pinch of sugar • Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste • 3 large red bell peppers, cut in halves vertically, and cored 1⁄2 cup plain dry bread crumbs • 1⁄4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese • Chopped fresh flat-leafed parsley, for garnish 1. Preheat the oven to 425oF. Lightly oil a large rimmed baking sheet.
EASTER CRUISE SUNDAY, APRIL 16 For a luxurious way to celebrate the holiday, the Bateaux New York cruise is sailing around New York. While being entertained by a live band, guests may dine on beet and goat cheese salad with orangeanise vinaigrette; maple and mustard-glazed chicken breast with Dijon mustard cream sauce; and more. The brunch cruise includes a complimentary glass of champagne. From $74.90 per person for brunch, from $139.90 for dinner. BateauxNewYork.com Board at Chelsea Piers 23rd Street & West Side Highway
Pulled Lamb Belly with spring vegetables, cooking jus, and vinaigrette.
BenoitNY.com
sheet. Roast, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 12 minutes. Remove from the oven. 3. Meanwhile, heat the remaining 1⁄4 cup oil and the garlic together in a medium skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 2 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, olives, capers, and anchovy and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to medium- low and cook for 2 minutes. Stir in the eggplant, basil, and sugar and cook to blend the flavors, about 2 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and cool slightly. 4. Lightly oil a large flameproof baking dish. Fill each red pepper half with the eggplant mixture and place in the dish, stuffing side up. Pour 1⁄3 cup water around the pepper halves. Bake until peppers are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven. 5. Position a broiler rack about 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat on High. Mix the bread crumbs and Parmigiano cheese together in a small bowl and sprinkle over the peppers. Drizzle with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Broil until the crumb topping has browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Sprinkle
with the parsley and serve hot from the baking dish.
New & Noteworthy Smorgasburg Opens Outdoors for 2017 Season ONGOING The Smorgasburg outdoor market in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is now open. More than 100 food vendors will serve their creations, including Zia Green Chile Company, Burger Supreme (griddle-steamed burgers made with Fleishers beef), Chickpea and Olive (vegan eats), Kreung (Cambodian food), and Tramezzini NYC (Venetian sandwiches). Smorgasburg.com Smorgasburg 90 Kent Ave. (from North Seventh to North 10th streets) Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Manzo in Eataly Reopens ONGOING After renovations, Eataly’s meatheavy Manzo restaurant now sports a new butcher room, where Eataly guests can order fresh cuts of meat from sustainably raised animals. Meanwhile, the sit-down menu highlights local farms and producers, and a special nose-to-tail item featuring a different cut of pork or veal each day. On April 21, the entire marketplace will showcase Manzo’s reopening, with a tasting event of cooking demos and food stations scattered throughout. $95 to $110. Eataly.com Eataly Flatiron 200 Fifth Ave. (on 23rd Street) Flatiron
2. To make the stuffing: Toss the eggplant with 2 tablespoons of the oil on the baking
Black Truffle Burger at Porter House THROUGH MAY Truffle purveyor Urbani Truffles and meat purveyor Pat LaFrieda have created a custom beef patty blended with black truffles to be served at Porter House Bar and Grill. The patty comes stacked with fontina cheese, braised beef short rib, and red onion jam on a brioche bun and is available for lunch and dinner. PorterHouseNYC.com
Recipe from
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant. A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.
✁
Our only location 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com
Machiavelli 519 Columbus Ave. (between 85th & 86th streets) Upper West Side
PIERRE MONETTA
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
A
SUNDAY, APRIL 16 Sample northern Italian Easter dishes at Macchiavelli, which is offering specials like the Asparagi alla Milanese, steamed green asparagus and burrata; the Costolette di agnello Empolese, breaded lamb chops served over sautéed artichoke; and the Colomba Pasquale, a traditional dove-shaped cake eaten during the holiday. MachiavelliNYC.com
Porter House Bar and Grill 10 Columbus Circle (between 58th & 60th streets) Fourth Floor Columbus Circle
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
STREETS EATS ANNUAL BENEFIT TUESDAY, APRIL 18 This annual event benefits Streets, a nonprofit in Hoi An, Vietnam, that offers local training programs for disadvantaged youth to enter the hospitality industry. Top chefs will be serving their takes on street food, including Matt Abdoo (Pig Beach, Pig Bleecker), Floyd Cardoz (Paowalla), King Phojanakong (Kuma Inn), Leah Cohen (Pig and Khao), and more. 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. $150 per person. ept.ms/Streets10thAnniversary Institute of Culinary Education Brookfield Place 225 Liberty St. (at West Street) Lower Manhattan
HOT SAUCE EXPO RETURNS SATURDAY, APRIL 22 & SUNDAY, APRIL 23 Hot sauce vendors from across the United States, Australia, New Zealand, South America, and other regions will present their creations at the Hot Sauce Expo. Guests can watch a series of competitions on stage, such as a hot wing challenge, Bloody Mary cocktail-mixing for bartenders, a Carolina Reaper pepper eating contest, and more. Beers, cocktails, and spicy bites will also be available. $10 to $100 per person. NYCHotSauceExpo.com Brooklyn Expo Center 79 Franklin St. (between Oak & Noble streets) Greenpoint, Brooklyn
CHEF JEREMY FOX AT MOMOFUKU WEDNESDAY, APRIL 26 & THURSDAY, APRIL 27 Jeremy Fox, James Beard Award nominee and chef at Rustic Canyon in Los Angeles, will be cooking at Momofuku Ssam Bar and Momofuku Ko on two evenings. The multicourse dinners will be vegetable-focused, in keeping with the theme of his new cookbook, “On Vegetables.” $135 per person (dinner, beverages, and signed cookbook) at Ssam Bar; $250 per person (dinner and signed cookbook) at Ko. SsamBar. Momofuku.com and Ko.Momofuku.com Momofuku Ssam Bar 207 Second Ave. (at 13th Street) Momofuku Ko 8 Extra Place (off East First Street, between Second Avenue & Bowery) East Village
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April 7–13, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PALIDA BOONYARUNGSRIT
UK Top Chef Jun Tanaka on His Path to Success
PALIDA BOONYARUNGSRIT
By Jane Gray | Epoch Times Staff LONDON—Jun Tanaka’s light and tasty FrenchMediterranean shared plates gained a Michelin star for his restaurant, The Ninth, last October. The flavors are simple yet refined, and the same care has gone into the restaurant’s ambiance. With warm tones of brick and copper, old books and mood lighting, it’s a restaurant that has a timeless and homey quality to it. Designed to feel “not overly of the moment,” in Tanaka’s words, it’s “the kind of space that will age well.” Looking out at London’s Charlotte Street from the first floor of The Ninth, so named because it’s the ninth place where he has worked, Tanaka spoke about how he started out as a chef: It all began with a lack of attendance, and a letter. While attending college for a hotel management course, the only day he enjoyed was Tuesday, when his lessons were based in the kitchen. “Actually, it was the only day I used to go into college,” he recalled. “I got kicked out, after the first year, for lack of attendance. Once a week wasn’t enough, I guess,” he said with a smile. “I felt a little bit guilty at the end of the first year, so I started to turn up to my lectures. And the lecturers thought I was a new student—that was how bad my attendance was.” Tanaka realized his true passion was in cooking and creativity, so he decided he wanted to be a chef. He asked his father, a chemical engineer who often took his clients out to London restaurants, which ones he rated as the best. Then Tanaka wrote to those top restaurants—which included Pierre Koffman’s La Tante Claire, Marco Pierre White’s Harveys and Nico Ladenis’s Chez Nico—asking for some work experience. Also on the list was Le Gavroche, which at the time had three Michelin stars and was run by the Roux brothers. “I wrote to Le Gavroche saying I was a
When things come easily, you don’t really appreciate it as much. Jun Tanaka, chef and owner, The Ninth
student looking for work experience. I wrote to all these restaurants saying, ‘I love food, I don’t have any experience, would you give me a chance?’ “I was very fortunate that Le Gavroche gave me the opportunity and gave me the job. I didn’t realize how lucky I was until probably five or six years after I worked there.” It gave Tanaka a stepping stone into the world of classic French cuisine in London. He’s learned a lot since his first day at Le Gavroche. “The first day I turned up, I had no experience whatsoever. Normal chef’s clothes are a butcher’s apron like this,” he said pointing at his chef’s apron, “black trousers or check trousers, usually a chef’s jacket, then you have a skull cap. “The only chef’s clothes I had were from college, which was completely inappropriate: a white pair of trousers, white clogs, a chemistry lab coat, a trilby hat like cricket umpires wear, a white neckerchief, white trousers ... It was ridiculous. The first job I did was to julienne three celeriacs, and it took me all morning.” Twenty-five years on, with experience working in top London restaurants, his approach to cooking these days is simple. “For me, it’s all about how can I make it taste as good as it possibly can, and that’s it,” he said. Born in New York to Japanese parents and raised in England, he considers himself British, but still very much has a Japanese demea© LIZZIE MAYSON
RECIPE
nor. “I’m pretty calm in the kitchen. I don’t really lose my temper that much. I think that side comes from my parents and is part of my Japanese heritage,” he said. Setting up The Ninth came with plenty of challenges—so many that he nearly gave up, twice. It took one year to write the business plan and get the money together, and then two years to find a site. “You know, when things come easily, you don’t really appreciate it as much,” he said. “You know how sometimes, on the odd day, maybe every day for some people, you wake up and think: ‘I really don’t want to go into work’? I never feel like that, ever. Not for one moment ... because it’s my thing. “I don’t feel any negative thoughts. I never feel resentful for having to work long hours.” Now that his dream to open his own restaurant has come true, he’s just enjoying the moment. “I feel very lucky and amazing. ... It took such a long time, and I really did struggle, that now that I’ve got it, I really appreciate it,” he said.
Authentic Japanese GMO
RABBIT LASAGNA Prep & Cooking Time: 2 hours Serves 6 Skill Level: 2 (Moderate) This has been on the menu at The Ninth from the day we opened and has become one of our signature dishes. It’s the combination of a comforting and familiar recipe with an unusual ingredient that makes this dish so popular. It’s not only delicious, but also the layers of pasta with the rabbit mousse and melted béchamel give a wonderful mouthfeel!
For the Pasta Dough • 300 grams (10 1/2 ounces) ‘00’ flour • Salt • 3 egg yolks • 2 whole eggs • 1 tablespoon olive oil For the Rabbit Filling • 6 rabbit legs • 30 grams (1 ounce) coarse sea salt • 5 grams (1 teaspoon) black peppercorns • 1 sprig thyme or rosemary • 2 cloves garlic, sliced • 100 milliliters (3 1/2 fluid ounces) white wine • 1 1/2 liters (2 3/4 pints) duck fat • 1 shallot, finely chopped • 50 grams (1 1/2 ounces) celeriac, finely chopped • 1/2 carrot, finely chopped • 25 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) olive oil For the Chicken Mousse • 200 grams (7 ounces) boneless chicken breast, cut into pieces • 1 egg white • 1 whole egg • 350 milliliters (12 1/2 fluid ounces) double cream For the Béchamel • 80 grams (2 1/2 ounces) butter • 80 grams (2 1/2 ounces) plain flour • 500 milliliters (18 fluid ounces) milk • 140 grams (5 ounces) Parmesan, grated • 20 grams (4 teaspoons) Pommery mustard • 10 grams (2 teaspoons) Dijon mustard For the Tomato Compote • 50 milliliters (1 1/2 fluid ounces) olive oil • 1 onion, finely chopped • 2 cloves garlic, crushed • 1 teaspoon thyme leaves • 1/2 tablespoon tomato puree • 100 milliliters (3 1/2 fluid ounces) white wine • 500 grams (1 pound 2 ounces) canned tomatoes, drained and seeds removed • 1 teaspoon sugar • 25 milliliters (1 fluid ounce) red wine vinegar
DIRECTIONS To make the pasta dough, place the flour and salt in a food processor and slowly add the egg yolks, eggs, and oil until it starts to come together. Remove from the food processor and knead until it forms a dough. Wrap in clingfilm and rest for 1 hour. To make the rabbit filling, place the rabbit legs into a container and add the salt, black peppercorns, thyme or rosemary, garlic, and white wine. Cover with clingfilm and leave in the fridge for 24 hours. Wash the rabbit legs under cold water, pat dry, and place in a saucepan. Cover with the duck fat and simmer for an hour, or until the meat is falling off the bone. Let cool, then drain and separate the meat from the bones. Chop the meat. Sweat the finely chopped shallot, celeriac, and carrot in olive oil for 5 minutes and add to the rabbit meat.
Tanaka’s London restaurant The Ninth has a homey and timeless feel.
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When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
To make the chicken mousse, place the chicken breast in a food processor and blend, slowly adding the egg, until smooth. Take the mix out of the processor and pass it through a drum sieve. Place a bowl on top of another bowl filled with ice. Add the sieved chicken mix to the chilled bowl and slowly add the double cream, continuously folding in with a spatula. Season and mix until the cream is completely blended in. Add enough chicken mousse to bind the rabbit mixture. To test, take a little of the mix, wrap it in clingfilm, and steam it for 5 minutes. Taste and add seasoning if necessary, and add more mousse if it is too dense. For the pasta sheets, roll out the pasta to setting 1 on the pasta machine. Cut four rectangular pieces 15 cm x 25 cm (6 in x 10 in) and blanch in boiling salted water. To build the lasagna, place a sheet of pasta on a chopping board, add 300 grams (10 ounces) of rabbit mixture and spread evenly across the pasta. Add another sheet of pasta and repeat the process, finishing with a sheet of pasta. To make the béchamel, melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and cook for a few minutes. Slowly pour the milk in and whisk until smooth. Add 40 grams (1 1/2 ounces) Parmesan and the mustards. Season to taste and cool down. Once it is cool, spread the béchamel in an even layer over the top of the lasagna. It should be 1/2 cm (1/4 inch) thick. Chill in the fridge for 30 minutes to 1 hour. Cut the lasagna into 7 cm (3 inch) squares and cover the top with the remaining Parmesan. To make the tomato compote, pour the olive oil into a saucepan. Add the chopped onion and garlic and sweat for 10 minutes. Add the thyme and tomato puree and cook for a further 2 minutes. Pour the white wine in and reduce until most of the wine has evaporated. Add the canned tomatoes and sugar, and simmer for 30 minutes. Season to taste and add the vinegar. To serve, place the lasagna in a steamer for 10 minutes, then place under a pre-heated medium grill until golden brown. Spoon some tomato compote onto a plate and place the lasagna on top. Recipe copyright Jun Tanaka, The Ninth, London. Reprinted from “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook: The Food We Love From 100 of Our Finest Chefs, Cooks, Bakers, and Food Heroes,” edited by William Sitwell. Published by Nourish.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
2nd Location
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April 7–13, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ILLUSTRATION BY SHUTTERSTOCK
Chef Atul Kochhar’s Chicken Tikka Masala Pie.
Musings on
British Food By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Celebrate with Us
T
he week before U.K. Prime Minister Theresa May sent the Article 50 letter to the European Union, triggering Brexit, “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook” was released. Cookbook editor William Sitwell had asked 100 of Britain’s “finest cooks, bakers, and chefs” to share recipes they cook for their loved ones. The result was a collection that speaks volumes about the richness and diversity of British food today. The cookbook features recipes from less familiar names as well as more famous ones, such as Nigella Lawson, offering her recipe for Chocolate Guinness Cake, and Jamie Oliver, with his Happy Fish Pie. As in the best medieval tradition, the finished dish is shown with the fish sticking out of the pie, but given that it is the tail, the eater is spared any reproachful looks. The British love for savory pies is well represented, from Oliver’s fish pie to home cook Sarah Webb’s apple and sausage turnover.
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The British love for savory pies is well represented.
CHICKEN TIKKA MASALA PIE
For the First Marinade • 1 clove garlic, peeled • 1/2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled • 1 teaspoon chili powder • Juice of 1/2 lemon • 1 kilogram (2 1/4 pound) boneless chicken thighs, chopped into bite-sized pieces For the Second Marinade • 250 grams (9 ounces) Greek-style yoghurt • 1 teaspoon garam masala • 1 teaspoon ground coriander • 50 milliliters (1 1/2 fluid ounces) vegetable oil • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1/2 teaspoon chili powder • 1/2 teaspoon dried fenugreek leaves • 2 teaspoons gram flour For Brushing • A small knob of butter, melted • 2 teaspoons lime juice • 1 teaspoon chaat masala or garam masala
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Published by Nourish, “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook” is priced at $34.95. A portion of the proceeds go to The Trussell Trust, a nonprofit that runs food banks throughout the U.K.
RECIPE Prep Time: 45 minutes plus resting/marinating; Cooking Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes Serves 4 to 6 Skill Level: 2 (Moderate)
877-668-2668 • 213 Hester St. (Chinatown, Manhattan)
But the most interesting one might be the Chicken Tikka Masala Pie, a mashup of Britain’s favorite dishes, from London chef and restaurateur Atul Kochhar. The recipe takes time, from marinating to dough resting to spice tempering. When I at last broke into the golden, buttery pastry, the fragrance of spices—among them garam masala, coriander, and what seemed like tons of ginger and garlic—wafted out temptingly. As far as the sweeter dishes, I turned to the Normandy Tart Made With a Food Processor by food writer, restaurateur, and caterer Prue Leith, mostly because she wrote invitingly, “It’s so classic, it never, never fails. … However badly you make it, it still tastes wonderful.” As I sat waiting for the tart to be ready, I mulled over the word “Normandy,” and my mind was temporarily transported to butter, apples ... and the year 1066, when William the Conqueror invaded England. Having been schooled in French elementary schools, I found my mind filled with a whirlwind of school-fed memories and a long list of hereditary causes for grudges between the Brits and the French—among them Joan of Arc, the Hundred Years’ War, and the Battle of Waterloo (which marked Napoleon’s final defeat). Normandy, indeed! I was starting to feel that perhaps this British tart recipe was just a tad bit French, after all. (It was delicious, by the way, Ms. Leith.) My own journey from Normandy to England took place in the pre-Eurostar days, many years ago, via bus and ferry. Once in London, I remember my mother dragging me to eat noodles in Chinatown. Were the more traditionally British food options that dismal back then? Maybe. Much has changed since. Although the British food landscape might have been in a darker, dimmer place some decades ago, through the country’s embrace of manifold cultures it has now become a lush space for foodies to explore. “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook” features a few recipes that ideally call for ingredients that are difficult to procure, such as the asparagus from East Anglia that chef Mark Sargeant recommends (although I suppose there is no problem using good old American asparagus), or woodcocks, as per Marco Pierre White’s recipe, to roast and eat on toast with wild mushrooms. But for most of the recipes, this isn’t an issue. The cookbook is an appealing read because, aside from the sheer diversity of 100 voices and cooks, who doesn’t want to know what others cook for their loved ones? It’s really quite good.
For the Pastry • 250 grams (9 ounces) plain flour, plus extra for dusting • 1 teaspoon sea salt • 250 grams (9 ounces) cold, unsalted butter For the Masala • 1 small onion, peeled • 10 cloves garlic, peeled • Vegetable oil • 2 1/2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled • 3 level teaspoons ground coriander • 3 level teaspoons chilli powder • 3 level teaspoons turmeric • 3 level teaspoons garam masala • 2 large bunches fresh coriander, leaves picked • 3 ripe tomatoes
DIRECTIONS For the first marinade, finely grate the garlic and ginger and place in a bowl. Add the chili powder, lemon juice, and
chicken, then set aside to marinate for 30 minutes. For the second marinade, add all of the ingredients to the bowl containing the chicken, mix together well, and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for a further 4 to 6 hours. Heat the barbecue, or the oven to 400 F/gas 6. Skewer the marinated chicken pieces and cook over the barbecue or in the oven for 15 minutes or until cooked through. Brush with a mixture of butter, lime juice, and chaat masala or garam masala and set aside. For the pastry, sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Cube the butter, then rub it in with your fingertips until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. Add up to 50 milliliters (1 1/2 fluid ounces) cold water, and slowly and gently mix into a dough until just combined but not wet. Dust the dough with flour, wrap in clingfilm, and leave to rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes. Turn the oven down to 325 F/gas 3. For the masala, chop the onion and garlic, then add with a little vegetable oil to a pan over a medium heat and sauté for 5 minutes until soft. Finely grate the ginger into the pan and cook for 2 minutes until golden. Stir through the spices, then chop the coriander and tomatoes and add to the pan, stirring to combine. Stir for a couple more minutes until everything is cooked through. Toss the chicken in the masala. Roll out the pastry to just under 1/4 inch thick. Line the base of an 8-inch pie dish with pastry, reserving some for the lid. Add the chicken filling to the dish. Lay the second piece of pastry on top, seal the edges, trim off any excess, and poke a small hole in the top. Bake in the oven for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the filling is hot. Recipe copyright Atul Kochhar, Benares (Mayfair), and Sindhu (Marlow), London. Reprinted from “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook: The Food We Love From 100 of Our Finest Chefs, Cooks, Bakers, and Food Heroes,” edited by William Sitwell. Published by Nourish.
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@EpochTaste
April 7–13, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY LIZZIE MAYSON
An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel •
The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu • Shochu & sake • Exceptional value
Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar • ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) • (212) 581-1581
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE RAMEN Tasty dishes and amazing appetizers!
RECIPE
Tabata 3 Tabata 1 646-657-0257 212-465-2418 601 6th Ave, 557 8th Ave, New York, NY 10018 New York, NY 10011
MINESTRONE SOUP WITH ORZO PASTA AND MINT PESTO
• 30 grams (1 ounce) pecorino cheese • 50 milliliters (1 1/2 fluid ounces) olive oil • Griddled toasts, to serve
Prep Time: 20 minutes, Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves 4 Skill Level: 1 (Easy)
DIRECTIONS
Tabatanewyork.com
Melt the butter in a large saucepan and sauté the onion, carrot, celery, courgette, and garlic over a gentle heat for 10 minutes.
• 25 grams (about 2 tablespoons) Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, add the unsalted butter pasta, and cook for a further 8 minutes. The pesto gives • 1 onion, finely chopped Add in the asparagus tips and peas and this easy soup • 1 carrot, peeled and diced cook for 2 minutes. a vibrant pop • 1 stick celery, diced of flavor. • 1 courgette (zucchini), diced Season to taste. Meanwhile, make • 1 clove garlic, finely chopped the pesto. • 1 1/4 liters (2 1/4 pints) Place all the ingredients in a food processor vegetable stock and blend until smooth. Season. • 100 grams (3 1/2 ounces) Ladle the soup into warm bowls and serve with the orzo pasta griddled toasts spread with the prepared pesto. • 1 pack (100 grams/3 1/2 ounces) asparagus tips Recipe copyright Karen Taylor, home economist for • 200 grams (7 ounces) frozen or fresh peas “Great British Menu” and “Masterchef,” Old Basing, For the Mint Pesto • 1 clove garlic, peeled • 25 grams (1 ounce) pine nuts • 25 grams (1 ounce) mint leaves
Tabata 2 212-290-7691 540 9th Ave, New York, NY 10018
Hampshire. Reprinted from “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook: The Food We Love From 100 of Our Finest Chefs, Cooks, Bakers, and Food Heroes,” edited by William Sitwell. Published by Nourish.
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
RECIPE NORMANDY TART MADE WITH A FOOD PROCESSOR Prep Time: 45 minutes plus chilling Cooking Time: 45 minutes Serves 8 to 10 Skill Level: 2 (Moderate)
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
This is one of my favourite recipes—it’s so classic, it just never, never fails. It’s basically pastry on the outside, with this really almondy, creamy, rich filling and sliced apple halves shoved into it. However badly you make it, it still tastes wonderful.
For the Pastry • 225 grams (8 ounces) plain flour • 140 grams (5 ounces) butter • 1 egg • A pinch of salt • 50 grams (1 1/2 ounces) caster sugar For the Almond Filling • 170 grams (6 ounces) butter • 170 grams (6 ounces) caster sugar • 225 grams (8 ounces) ground almonds • 2 eggs • 1 tablespoon calvados, kirsch, or whatever liqueur you like • A few drops of almond essence For the Topping • 3 to 5 eating apples, depending on size • Half a 340-gram (12 ounces) jar of smooth apricot jam, warmed with 1 tablespoon water to make a thick syrup
DIRECTIONS Set the oven at 400 F/gas 6 and put a metal tray in it to heat. Whizz everything for the pastry together until the mixture forms a ball. Roll out between two sheets of polythene or baking paper until big enough to line a 10-inch flan ring. Chill for 30 minutes. If the dish is porcelain, bake blind; if metal, don’t bother. To bake blind, line the pastry-lined flan ring with baking paper and fill with baking beans. Bake for 10 minutes, then remove the beans and paper and bake for a further 5 to 10 minutes or until the pastry is light golden all over. Whizz everything for the filling in the food processor (no
Classic Margherita Pizza need to wash the bowl after making the pastry), then spread in the flan case. Peel the apples if you like, but no need to. Core them and cut in half from top to stalk end. Slice each half-apple finely, keeping the slices in order. Arrange them on top of the filling. Set the flan in the middle of the hot oven and bake for 15 minutes. Then paint with hot jam. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 F/gas 4 and bake for half an hour or so, until the filling is firm and brown. Remove from the oven and give it another brush with the jam if you think it needs it. Best cooled to tepid or room temperature without refrigeration before serving. If you make it in advance, freeze it and then reheat for 20 minutes at 350 F/gas 4 and allow to cool. This will crisp up the pastry again. Recipe copyright Prue Leith CBE, restaurateur, caterer, and food writer, Chastleton, Gloucestershire. Reprinted from “The Really Quite Good British Cookbook: The Food We Love From 100 of Our Finest Chefs, Cooks, Bakers, and Food Heroes,” edited by William Sitwell. Published by Nourish.
Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza
“the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...” ZAGAT USER
Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza
“The wood fired oven along with the homemade cheese just can’t be beat. ” PM
“Love it. Thin crust, very good choice of topping. Unbeatable Beer pitcher price.” CB
PIZZA LOVE Cut fresh herbs onto your amazing wood fired oven pizza. Made in just 5–7 minutes.
800 6th Ave (btwn 27th & 28th St) (212) 213-5042
WaldysPizza.com
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@EpochTaste
April 7–13, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC MIKE DI TOTA
BRITTANY AMBRIDGE
Oysters Rockefeller.
The Spaniard Is Now Open in West Village
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
The Bua Bar Group (Bua, Wilfie & Nell) has come out with its latest gastropub, The Spaniard, designed to be a classic New York tavern. A central horseshoe-shaped bar divides the space in two: a bright front bar with communal tables and an intimate back room with leather booths. The whiskey list is extensive, with over 100 selections, ranging from Scotch, ryes, bourbons, and Japanese whiskeys; the cocktail list includes whiskey cocktails such as the American Trilogy (rye, applejack, brown sugar, and orange bitters) as well as house cocktails like the Sunshine (gin, Lillet, and Aperol).
The menu offers dishes including the Buffalo Duck Wings with blue cheese, celery, and hot sauce; the Ribeye & Chips; and the Barley Risotto with farro, butternut squash, and pumpkin seeds. Open Monday through Friday from 3 p.m. to 4 a.m., and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 4 a.m.
Fredrik Berselius and Claus Meyer Bring Norman to Greenpoint
Pea Mash with cucumber and sorrel. At lunch you can expect, among other dishes, Crab Toast, Sunchoke Soup, and Slow Roasted Pork Shoulder with cabbage, salted red currants, and pickles. The restaurant has indoor seating for 140, with seasonal outdoor seating. Open for breakfast and lunch. Preliminary hours are Monday through Saturday from 7 a.m. and Sunday from 9 a.m. Dinner, brunch, and late night service to come in the following weeks.
Chef Andrew Whitcomb (formerly of Colonie) takes the helm of the kitchen at Norman, the new restaurant from Nordic chef-restaurateurs Fredrik Berselius and Claus Meyer. Located in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, the restaurant is set inside A/D/O, a creative space dedicated to design, and has an open kitchen at its center. Whitcomb will focus on seasonal dishes, using sustainably sourced, local ingredients. The Nordic-inspired breakfast menu includes Ancient Grain Porridge with green garlic, smoked trout, havarti, and thyme, as well as breakfast sandwiches such as Split
The Spaniard
190 W. Fourth St. (at Barrow Street) West Village 212-918-1986 www.TheSpaniardNYC.com
Norman
29 Norman Ave. (between Banker & Dobbin streets) Greenpoint, Brooklyn RestaurantNorman.com
The Lately Is the Latest Bar in Chelsea The Lately has popped up in Chelsea, with a cocktail list divided into three tiers: classics such as Moscow Mules and Negronis; modern libations that build upon these classics with ingredients such as activated charcoal, fresh juices, and amaro; and the third category venturing into less familiar territory—with, for example, The Ultramaroon, with Cazadores Reposado tequila, watermelon and beet root shrub, lime cordial, and Moroccan bitters. The food menu includes Sigmund’s Hot Pret-
zel with beer mustard and Quinoa Hush Puppies with charred jalapeño-cheese sauce. The Lately is a collaboration between Den Hospitality (The Garret, Dinnertable) and LDV (Scarpetta, American Cut). The design recalls an upstate New York cabin of times past.
The Lately
357 W. 16th St. (between Eighth & Ninth avenues) Chelsea TheLatelyBar.com
GRK Fresh Greek Expands to Flatiron District GRK Fresh Greek’s third Manhattan outpost will be a new flagship location located in the Flatiron District. It has other locations in Washington and Dubai, and one to come in Qatar. The 64-seat, 3,300-square-foot Greek spot, calling itself “fresh-casual,” offers “Yeeros”— spit-roasted meats—and “Grillers”—souvlaki, portobello, or meatballs grilled over an open flame. Other offerings include orzo bowls, salads, and soups, as well as housemade sides such as a tzatziki sampler. Exclusive to the Flatiron location will be lamp chops, marinated in Greek yogurt, olive oil, and herbs and served grilled over turmeric brown rice; spanakopita; and baklava. Frozen and fresh yogurts made inhouse are available in combinations including Greek honey and walnut; baklava-topped sundae; and rose petal-toasted almond. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
COURTESY OF GRK FRESH GREEK
GRK Fresh Greek
304 Park Avenue South (at 23rd Street) Flatiron District 646-647-8332 GRKFresh.com
Good Seed Offers Casual, Wholesome Fare
212-594-4963
10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
New to Midtown, the 3,200-square-foot eatery Good Seed offers wholesome meals, from signature salads to grain bowls to “picnic baskets.” Selections include the Chimichurri Steak salad, with thick smoked bacon, roasted crimini mushrooms, and greens, tossed in a chimichurri vinaigrette; and rotating dishes such as Herb Roasted Chicken with Tuscan kale salad and Israeli couscous. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, and Saturday for lunch and dinner.
Good Seed
213 W. 35th St. (between Seventh & Eighth avenues) Midtown GoodSeedSalad.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff