YAKINIKU FUTAGO
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 October 16–22, 2015
“I’m the handsome one,” younger twin Sunbong Lee said.
Anthony Bourdain Champion of Old School on
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Yakiniku Futago
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
37 W. 17th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) 212-620-0225 Facebook: Yakiniku Futago USA
T
Hours Lunch: Monday–Saturday noon–2:30 p.m.
here’s food you can intellectualize about, and then there’s food so visceral it obliterates the merest trace of thought. That was my experience at Yakiniku Futago, a restaurant that opened on West 18th Street in June, specializing in Japanese barbecue. What it really is, is heaven for meat lovers. The star here is the beef, imported from Japan. I can’t fathom what lifestyle the cattle lived. Were they flanked by masseuses dispensing relaxing massages? Did they drink beer all day? Did they live their lives without a care in the world?
Twins on fire
Dinner: Daily 5 p.m.–11 p.m.
No doubt a compliment to his older twin brother, Sunchol Lee.
See Futago on D2
W i Din n at ner
Twin brothers Sunchol and Sunbong Lee have a combined 70 years of life between them. They started Yakiniku Futago five years ago in Japan. There are now over 40 Yakiniku Futago restaurants worldwide.
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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Yakiniku Futago serves Korean-accented Japanese fare.
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YAKINIKU FUTAGO Futago continued from D1 Take the Hamideru Kalbi. This thin, halfpound cut of Japanese Black Wagyu rib-eye is served in a gleaming silver bowl and dry ice. There are four distinct parts, with different textures: kaburi, geta (so named because of its sandal shape), rib-maki, and rib-shin ($45). This meat is so highly marbled it literally, blissfully melts on first contact with your tongue. “I don’t know how they do it,” stammered one dining companion after a bite or two and some silence. “It’s a euphoric feeling.” There’s no comparison to the Wagyu cattle raised outside of Japan, I’m told. This is the stuff. The menu highlights other house recommendations, featuring Kobe beef or US Prime beef—for example, the 10-Second Beef, which is slightly broiled; the Lightly Broiled Beef With Sea Urchin, served on seaweed and shiso leaf; and the Seared Fatty Toro Kalbi. The cuts, grilling methods, and sauces differ, but they are all mind-numbingly, thought-obliteratingly, rapturously tender and flavorful. Origins In Japanese, “yakiniku” means grilled meat, and “futago” means twins. Yakiniku Futago was started by 35-year-old twins Sunchol Lee and Sunbong Lee in Osaka, and is arguably the most famous place in Japan for yakiniku. In the five years Yakiniku Futago has been around, the Lees have opened more than 40 restaurants worldwide. The West 17th Street location is the flagship U.S. restaurant. They are keen businessmen no doubt, but their primary ambition is to spread the gospel of yakiniku throughout the world. Unlike Japanese competitors who usually set up shop on the U.S. West Coast, the twins made the jump—from Japan to Taiwan to Hong Kong— straight to the U.S. East Coast, eyeing a takeover of Europe next. The origins of yakiniku are Korean. Particularly after World War II, the popularity of
I don’t know how they do it. It’s a euphoric feeling. Stammering dining companion
It might be the best “bibimbap” we’ve had in Manhattan.
Korean barbecue in Japan took off. The similarity to Korean barbecue, where meat is grilled at the table, is clear. Through the years, yakiniku has become one of Japan’s national foods. But unlike ramen, which has proliferated in no small part due to relatively low startup costs, yakiniku is not as well-known outside of Japan. In the hands of the Lee brothers, who are of Korean heritage, yakiniku comes full circle. The menu features Korean-accented dishes and they are terrific. The miso soup is one. It eschews the usual kombu dashi broth and instead makes use of creamy white seolleongtang broth—the result of hours of beef bones simmering. It has a body and a meaty intensity that make standard miso soup look like a delicate wallflower. The menu’s subtitle is “absolutely amazing taste miso soup.” It’s true. This is not to be missed ($8). The Japanese Style Cold Noodles, similar to Korean naenmnyeong noodles, are served chilled, usually after the meat-eating revelry. Here a bonito broth is simmered for eight hours, along with eight other ingredients, and served with chewy Morioka style noodles ($6). The garlic rice, which comes in a sizzling hot pot, is addictive ($15). Same for those cloves of garlic, grilled to sweet, melting tenderness on the grill, and redolent of sesame oil ($6). Ramen is served at lunchtime, in two versions, both in a creamy pork housemade stock, made with Kurobura pork ($13). It takes 24 hours to make and the kitchen limits itself to making 50 bowls a day. One is the Shiro Ramen, and the other, the Kuro Ramen, fragrant with roasted garlic and scallion oil. You can add various toppings including kimchi, chashu, or cilantro. I’d recommend adding the kalbi. There’s a wide selection of beverages including beers, sakes, shochus, shochu cocktails, and makgeollis.
larly warm. The wait staff at Yakiniku Futago is a whole other story. Drilled in the art of service (employees worldwide have to go through “smile training”), they are helpful, warm, and friendly. Having visited Yakiniku Futago with a couple of very enthusiastic male carnivores—basically your friendly caveman archetype—who threw themselves upon the grilled meats with abandon, the waiter gently reminded them of their manners. “Don’t be greedy,” he humorously admonished. The food and service were impeccable. Even a visit downstairs to the restroom is a peek at a world where everything has been thought of: nail clippers and file, body lotion, floss, hair ties, and so on. Eat there at least 10 times, and you’ll get your own pair of golden tongs hanging in a glass cabinet on the wall, with your name etched on it.
Service If you have ever been at a standard Korean barbecue spot, you might be familiar with the nononsense service—efficient and not particuThe service is warm and friendly.
ENJOY A SEASONAL FEAST FOR THE EYES AND THE PALATE, TAILORED TO YOUR INDIVIDUAL TASTE TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
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October 16–22, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
席メニュー CHEF’S TASTING MENU Amuse "Mineoka" Milk Sesame Tofu Appetizers Vinegared Fried Fluke Ohitashi/Boiled Spinach & Asparagus in Bonito Broth Simmered Monkfish Liver Fresh Fig with Sesame Sauce Mini Salmon Sushi Ball Soup Topneck Clam Clear Soup Sashimi Bluefin Tuna, Red Snapper, and Sea Urchin Sashimi
The Hamideru Kalbi, a half-pound cut of Japanese Black Wagyu beef. Melts in your mouth, not in your hand.
Have you ever seen a quail egg in a shiso leaf saddle riding a shrimp? Here it is.
Skewers of deepfried shrimp and quail egg. Take one bite. They are ridiculously tasty.
Fish Steamed Stuffed Red Snapper with Green Tea Soba Entremet Vinegared Crab Legs Meat "Miyazaki" Wagyu (Strip-Loin) Rice Boiled Whitebait with Rice Dessert Assortment
Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 24-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.
RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)
Natural
Diners who eat at Yakiniku Futago 10 times get their own golden tongs, etched with their name.
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
Kuro Ramen, topped with a secret red paste made with 36 different ingredients. The stock is made with Kurobura pork.
“Best Organic Soy Sauce” -Food and Wine Magazine
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores. A quiet private dining room is available.
www.wanjashan.com
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
Chef Yamasaki
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MERRY EDWARDS AT ELAN
GRUB STREET FOOD FESTIVAL The sixth annual Grub Street Food Festival returns to Hester Street Fair with special menus, giveaways, and prizes. Some of the vendors include Mighty Quinn’s BBQ, Luke’s Lobster, Davey’s Ice Cream, Goa Taco, Sticky’s Finger Joint, Underwest Donuts, and more. This festival is hosted by Hester Street and New York Magazine, and will highlight other events like the Grub Street Beer Garden with special interactive gaming.
James Beard award-winning winemaker Merry Edwards will team up with executive chef David Waltuck and pastry chef Diana Valenzuela of élan to serve guests a four-course wine dinner. Edwards’s famous pinot noirs, sauvignon blancs, and late harvest sauvignon blancs will be complemented by the menu featuring Lobster, Foie Gras, Papaya Salad, Peppered Roast Venison, Striped Bass, and Cinnamon Ricotta Cannolis.
Sunday, Oct. 18, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Corner of Hester & Essex Free hesterstreetfair.com
stuff to eat and drink around town
Tuesday, Oct. 20, 6.30 p.m.–9.30 p.m. 43 E. 20th St. Tickets: $185 elannyc.com, 646-682-7105 (for reservations)
ON THE HORIZON COURTESY OF LUCKY RICE
COURTESY OF LUCKY RICE
ARTISANAL CHOCOLATE WORKSHOP Institute of Culinary Education’s creative director chef Michael Laiskonis will lead a hands-on experience at the brand new Bean-to-Bar Chocolate Lab workshop. Open to pastry and culinary professionals, the workshop will cover the entire bean-to-bar process, from pressing cocoa butter, to tempering chocolate, to molding bonbons. Tastings, discussions, and post production techniques are included. Thursday & Friday, Oct. 22 & Oct. 23 10 a.m.–2 p.m. 225 Liberty St., Third Floor Tickets: $400, course ID: ARTCHOC recreational.ice.edu
The third annual Luckyrice New York Slurpfest will please ramen fanatics with a menu featuring four major regional styles, all meant to be consumed in “speed eating” style—13 minutes or less, with gusto. Dishes will include White Truffle and Parmesan Cheese Dan Dan Noodles from Hide-Chan Ramen in Fukoaka, Japan, and Tantanmen from Gomaichi Ramen in Honolulu, Hawaii. Drinks include Japanese beer, green tea, and cocktails.
COURTESY OF ICE
COURTESY OF LUCKY RICE
LUCKYRICE NEW YORK SLURPFEST
Thursday, Oct. 22 Astor Center, 399 Lafayette St. Tickets: $100 luckyrice.com COURTESY OF ICE
COURTESY OF BOCCA
FALL HARVEST AT NYC CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL More than 70 craft brewers will take over the Lexington Avenue Armory to serve two of their finest offerings, for a total of around 150 beers, ciders, and mead, with an emphasis on their limited release and fall selections. Also at the event, the Sense Lab will show you the ingredients going into your favorite brews, while industry luminaries offer interactive seminars and one on one Q&As. Friday & Saturday, Oct. 23 & Oct. 24 Lexington Avenue Armory, 68 Lexington Ave. Tickets: $55 nyccraftbeerfest.com
Chef Luca di Lorenzo.
MILAN COMES TO NYC
COURTESY OF FOOD FILM FESTIVAL
NYC FOOD FILM FESTIVAL
Two-time Michelin-starred chef Luca di Lorenzo from Milan will be cooking at Bocca for one night on Saturday, Oct. 17. Among other dishes, he’ll be serving eggplant parmigiana with burrata, saffron-colored Risotto alla Millanese, tagliatelle with squid ink, and chicken in porchetta, cauliflower purée, chestnuts, and white truffle.
Now in its ninth year, the Food Film Festival is the only one in the world where guests can eat food from the films they’re watching, without leaving their seats. Local and international films will compete for the Slotted Spoon Award in various categories, and will be shown in themed sessions like Tender: Stories of Love and Meat, featuring stories from Texas to Oklahoma to Maine. Tickets include entry for select screenings, food celebrated in the films, wine, cocktail pairings, and a gift bag.
Saturday, Oct. 17 6 p.m. Bocca East, 1496 Second Ave. For reservations, call 212-249-1010 www.boccaeast.com
Thursday–Sunday, Oct. 22–Oct. 25 AMC Empire 25, 234 W. 42nd St. Tickets: $23–$99 thefoodfilmfestival.com
Compiled by Daksha Devnani/Epoch Times Staff
• Broad range on the menu • The freshest sushi • Friendly service
• Several big flat screens tuned into the latest game • Delivery and pickup
Come dine with us today!
SUSHI REN 1584 2nd Ave. New York, NY 10028 212-710-8888 • ren82.com
Recently Opened !
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October 16–22, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town COURTESY OF BLACK TREE BK
Black Tree Bk The Lower East Side’s Black Tree has expanded across the East River to open up a Williamsburg outpost with Black Tree Bk. Co-owner and executive chef Sandy Dee Hall sources all ingredients from a 300-mile radius. Each week, a whole animal is broken down; for example, a grass-fed cow from Finger Lakes Farm was broken down and used to make items such as beef butter, tacos, steaks, shoyu ramen (with marrow beef stock). Given its origin as a pop-up sandwich shop, Black Tree Bk continues the tradition of serving sandwiches, such as the Winter Squash, with local heirloom squash, mozzarella, seeds, and herbs; and the Short Rib, with braised short ribs, spiced pear preserves, pickled pear, and arugula. A chef’s table offers a 7–11 course tasting menu ($88, optional local wine pairing available). Open for dinner and weekend brunch. Breakfast and lunch service to come.
Black Tree expands to Williamsburg.
261 Metropolitan Ave. Williamsburg, Brooklyn www.blacktreenyc.com 718-387-7611 COURTESY OF CALEXICO
Calexico Calexico opened a new outpost on the Upper East Side. It’s the fifth brick-and-mortar location of the Cali-Mex mashup and seats 80. New items including fajitas and a queso dip with warm tostadas will be introduced, along with its familiar dishes, such as the Carne Asada with “crack” sauce and Chipotle Pork Tacos. Open for dinner. Lunch and breakfast service to come.
1491 Second Ave. (between East 77th & East 78th streets) www.calexico.net 347-967-5955
Tacos.
LIZ CLAYMAN
The Pomeroy The Pomeroy recently opened in Astoria. Chef Bo O’Connor, who recently was personal chef to her childhood friend Lady Gaga on her world tour, serves seasonal, new American fare. Dishes includes Arancini Rice Balls with porcini mushrooms and Fontina Val D’Aosta; Roasted Carrots & Avocado with citrus labne, pea shoots and croutons; and Skirt Steak with herb chimuchurri, grilled corn, cherry tomatoes and basil. Cocktails like the Pom-Sidecar with cognac, fresh pineapple and lemon juice, and a cherry, offer twists on the classics. Open for dinner. Closed Mondays.
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
36-12 Ditmars Blvd. (at 36th Street) 718-721-1579 www.thepomeroynyc.com
Mac ’n’ Cheese.
COURTESY OF TACOMBI
COURTESY OF TACOMBI
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Tacombi Bleecker The fifth Tacombi taqueria has opened on Bleecker Street. Co-owner and founder Dario Wolos first started selling tacos on the beaches of Playa del Carmen in Mexico out of a Volkswagen bus (known as a kombi). Tortillas, lightly fried and puffed, are filled with beans to make “panuchos,” a specialty from
Carne Asada Taco.
the Yucatán, and topped with various meats like free-range chicken. There is a variety of tacos from “lechón” (suckling pig) to Cochinita Pibil (pork in Seville orange and achiote wrapped and roasted in banana leaf), all of which can be washed down with aguas frescas or micheladas. Open for lunch and dinner.
255 Bleecker St. (at Cornelia Street) 646-964-5984 www.tacombi.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
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For Bourdain, Old School Is the Way to Go
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff Globetrotting epicure and chef Anthony Bourdain is an old-school kind of guy. In each show he hosts, Bourdain openly displays his admiration for no-frills traditional fare—and the people who dedicate their lives to making it. So when The Balvenie, a single malt whiskey brand from Scotland, approached Bourdain to produce a Web series and traveling exhibit highlighting the work of American artisans, he hopped on board, ready to honor the spirit of craftsmanship. Among the craftsman featured in the series “Raw Craft” are Roland G. Murphy, the only maker of fully handcrafted watches in America ( RGM Watch Co.); bladesmith Bob Kramer, a maker of superior chefs’ knives (Kramer Knives); and Arion Press, one of the last places in the country that still makes books using a letterpress. And of course there’s whiskey by The Balvenie, made largely in the same way it was when the distillery was founded in the late 1800s. The Balvenie still uses malting floors to malt its barley grains, and employs coopers and coppersmiths to make the casks and maintain the copper stills. Head cooper Ian McDonald started his apprenticeship at The Balvenie in 1969. His job involves assembling and repairing the barrels used to store the spirit for maturation. It’s in these casks that the whiskey acquires its unique flavors from the interaction of wood and alcohol. At the exhibit’s launch held at the Hudson Mercantile in Midtown Manhattan earlier this month, McDonald demonstrated his cask-making process, pounding away with his hammer and anvil at the metal rings that held the wooden pieces together. Over 40 years of
The triumph of skill over ingredient is something that always impresses me. Anthony Bourdain
The Balvenie whiskey, made largely the same way as when the distillery was founded in the late 1800s. physical labor has taken its toll: McDonald has carpal tunnel in both his wrists, and both his shoulders have been operated on. McDonald has to rely on a mix of experience and intuition to select the right staves for each cask. The Balvenie reuses casks that were previously filled with American bourbon and Spanish sherry (new oak doesn’t give the right taste), which lend a vanilla and spicy coconut flavor, respectively. Most casks are a combination of American, Spanish, and used Balvenie wood. The importance of the casks to the flavors of the whiskey keeps McDonald constantly motivated to improve. “You can make as much whiskey you want, [but] if the cooper doesn’t do his job properly, the barrels will come out of the warehouse empty, you’ve lost all your product, and it’s been 8, 10, 12, 15, 20 years. There are even Balvenies that are 50 years old. So if that bottle doesn’t hold up in that length of time, you haven’t done a good job, have you?” Bourdain said he decided to work with The Balvenie because the project was a chance to celebrate people whose hard work deserved the spotlight. “When you see people doing things this difficult, this against the grain, this obstinate, in the cause of creating something, the
time is right,” he said during a Q&A session at the exhibit. He added that their romantic pursuit of perfection—against convention, modern convenience, or business considerations—gave him hope, especially compared to his days working in the restaurant industry, “where I was often, if not always, punished for my best efforts, and where the business always pushed you to make concessions—speed and quantity over quality,” he said. Not cutting corners isn’t easy. In the food world, Bourdain said a dish that encapsulates that spirit is the “poularde en vessie,” an older chicken stuffed with truffles, steamed slowly inside a pig’s bladder so that the juices stay inside the chicken. “It’s a dish that is unnecessarily difficult, of transforming something not so awesome—a tough old bird—into something awesome. The triumph of skill over ingredient is something that always impresses me,” he said.
Chef and host of CNN’s “Parts Unknown” Anthony Bourdain at the launch of his traveling exhibit “Raw Craft” at the Hudson Mercantile in Midtown Manhattan.
The Balvenie stores its whiskey in casks that were previously filled with American bourbon and Spanish sherry, giving the liquor unique flavors.
A watchmaker from RGM Watch Co., one of the American artisans featured in Anthony Bourdain’s web series and traveling exhibit.
Head cooper at The Balvenie Ian McDonald demonstrates how to make a whiskey cask. Coopers assemble and repair the barrels used to store and mature whiskey
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Seven’s Ottoman Feast
the modern
omen dressed in 13th-century garb dance and play music on a mural. Antique oil lamps decorate the shelves while candlelight exudes warmth.
experience
thai
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True Turkish Delight The finesse of Turkish cuisine doesn’t get the attention it deserves. The balance of ingredients is delicate. The flavors are subtle yet rich, and the seasonings never overpower the ingredients. The Shrimp Casserole is one of the best dishes on the menu—fragrant shrimp in a creamy medley of herbs, zucchini, cheese, and a touch of lemon juice. While the flavor of the cream stands out, it’s not heavy. Peker adds a touch of cream—keeping the meal light while giving it a wonderful texture and flavor. The Mixed Grill is highly recommended for meat lovers. It’s also a great dish if you’re new to Turkish cuisine and want to try all the dierent meats. The meats are all moist, but not oily— flavorful, but not heavy. Standouts include the ground lamb, which has a hint of red bell pepper, and the tender grilled chicken. The Mixed Grill is accompanied by Turkish rice pilaf, with large, soft grains of rice that have an almost buttery flavor. Bread rarely gets a mention since it’s often just a filler served before a meal. But the bread at Seven’s Turkish Grill deserves attention. It is baked fresh and has a delicate flavor derived from sesame seeds. The Shepherd’s Salad, a mix of chopped cucumber, tomatoes, feta cheese, and herbs, is a simple but perfect accompaniment. It is crisp and refreshing. A meal at Seven’s leaves you pleasantly full. It’s the kind of full that makes you want to sit back with a nice glass of wine and chat with friends—which is what Seven’s Turkish Grill is all about.
THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY!
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE
FREE DELIVERY
10 BLOCK RADIUS
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists
Seven’s Turkish Grill 158 W. 72nd St. (between Amsterdam & Columbus avenues) 212-724-4700 seventurkishgrill.com
Hours Daily 10:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m.
Deliciously Sponsored
At Seven’s Turkish Grill, the atmosphere draws its charm from the days of the Ottoman Empire, a time when cultures and dishes from the East and West came together in the capital city of Constantinople—modern-day Istanbul. Many of the restaurant’s decorations are rare finds from the city’s bazaars. In the air you might catch the light fragrance of fish seasoned in herbs and spices, freshly baked bread, or a touch of floral wine. The dishes are all prepared from traditional Turkish recipes, and co-owners Tony Seven and Omar Peker picked them from among hundreds of Turkish dishes, looking for flavors that would please American palates. “Turkish culture is very rich,â€? Seven said. “It was from the Ottoman Empire, and it has lots of food—lots of good food.â€? Good ingredients are an essential component. They try to buy only organic. The lamb is imported from New Zealand. All the wines are imported from Turkey, and while Turkish wines have yet to take o in America, they are gaining popularity in Europe. “They are very similar to French wines. The weather climate is the same as southern France,â€? Seven said. “They don’t have them in New York. We have to bring them from Turkey.â€? In the kitchen, Peker cooks and trains the assistant chefs. In the front of the house, Seven chats with guests and helps add that final touch to the atmosphere: community. Seven is a strong believer that a restaurant should feel like a home—and bringing people together is an important part of any meal. “I’m an old-fashioned guy. In my family, dinner was very important,â€? he said, noting that this sense of community around food is even more important in New York, where people often go out for dinner. “We have some customers who have come since we first opened the restaurant. They’re our friends now,â€? Seven said. “We have some customers who don’t come here to eat—they come to talk, sometimes they drink, or stop by for tea or coee.â€?
(Top) Co-owners of Seven's Turkish Grill, Tony Seven (L) and Omar Peker. Seven is the restaurant manager, and Peker is the head chef.
NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
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(Bottom) 鍔銗文人墨厢的 Gulsah Gulcan,čŠŠćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ ) one of the waitresses at Seven'sĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ Turkish瞎味佳餚(三樓) Grill. The restaurant imports its difficult-tofind Turkish wines directly from Istanbul.
ĺ–„
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Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty
South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
212-594-4963 The Mixed Grill at Seven's Turkish Grill is served with an assortment of meats and vegetables, and is perfect for meat lovers.
10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
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As Kombucha Sales Boom, Makers Ask Feds for New Alcohol Test
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
AP PHOTO/BRENNAN LINSLEY
By Kristen Wyatt
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hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu
DENVER—A tangy fermented tea called kombucha has moved from the natural foods aisle to the mainstream. But it’s also moved into the hot seat amid renewed concerns that it can contain low levels of alcohol. Five years after alcohol levels detected in kombucha prompted nationwide recalls, federal authorities again are warning producers to relabel their products to indicate alcohol content or face fines. But this time around dozens of producers are resisting, and have asked for new federal tests to help them avoid running afoul of alcohol laws. Kombucha is a tea that has been fermented with bacteria and yeast, giving it a tart, vinegar-like zip and high levels of bacteria that some believe impart health benefits. And it’s hugely popular. Sales of kombucha jumped nearly five times between 2013 and 2015, to about $600 million a year, according to retail analysts at Markets and Markets. The tea’s fermentation process dates back centuries, but its popularity in recent years has landed kombucha in the sights of the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. That’s because the fermentation process can give the drink too much alcohol for it to be legally sold as a non-alcoholic beverage. Kombucha makers complain that the alcohol threshold that triggers the law—0.5 percent—is too low to intoxicate people, pointing out that many fruits naturally ferment on shelves to about the same level. But federal authorities over the years have sent kombucha makers letters threatening fines when tests indicate that kombucha on store shelves is too alcoholic. Kombucha tea naturally walks the line of what federal authorities consider an alcoholic beverage. Yeast and sugars in the tea create both the desired bacteria and alcohol. A kombucha tea can edge toward 1 percent alcohol if it is aged and not refrigerated. That’s about a quarter as strong as a Bud Light, which is 4.2 percent alcohol, but still is too alcoholic to be sold to minors. The latest federal intervention to the kombucha market came late this summer, when fine letters went to an undisclosed number of kombucha makers nationwide, said bureau spokesman Tom Hogue. He declined to spec-
A kombucha tea can edge toward 1 percent alcohol if it is aged and not refrigerated. That’s about a quarter as strong as a Bud Light.
A bottling run of Living Ginger, one of several kombucha varieties produced at Rowdy Mermaid in Boulder, Colo.
AP PHOTO/BRENNAN LINSLEY
Small Course
(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
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tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person
Sake and Wine
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as
Ask about our sake tastings.
white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
Employee Hannah Melby works on a bottling run of Living Ginger at Rowdy Mermaid in Boulder, Colo.
ify how many brewers’ products failed alcohol tests, or how many producers have been fined. “What we’re concerned about here is that when a consumer picks up a product, they know the product is alcoholic,” Hogue said. The letters have kombucha brewers on edge. “It’s almost like a witch hunt,” said Tom Nieder, founder of Companion Kombucha in St. Louis. He hasn’t received an enforcement letter, but said brewers are fighting comparisons to alcohol or other drinks. Kombucha is one of many fermented foods enjoying a renaissance. From kimchi (a Korean pickled cabbage dish) to kefir (fermented milk with a yogurt-like tang), fermented foods deliver “good bacteria” to the digestive system. Some fermented drinks—such as pulque, a milky agave drink native to Mexico that often is about 3 percent alcohol—have always been sold as alcoholic beverages. Kombucha brewers said the agency needs a new alcohol test specific to fermented drinks. They said the commonly used test to determine alcohol by volume (often listed as ABV on alcoholic beverages) doesn’t account for naturally occurring sediment in kombucha, from bits of tea leaves to strands of yeast. “We’re working on a more accurate test that will show people that kombucha is not an alcoholic beverage,” said Hannah Crum, head of the Los Angeles-based Kombucha Brewers International group, an industry advocate. The federal agency said it is interested in an alcohol test specific to fermented beverages. But in the meantime, it said it won’t stop issuing fines when it gets reports of products that exceed alcohol limits using existing tests. The kombucha-testing dilemma caught the interest of a Colorado representative who wrote to the bureau seeking a reprieve for some fined kombucha makers. In his Sept. 14 letter, Democratic Rep. Jared Polis argued that kombucha stays below the alcohol threshold when refrigerated. “Eight spoiled kombuchas are roughly the equivalent of one beer, but that doesn’t mean we should regulate it like we do alcohol—it makes absolutely no sense,” Polis wrote. The agency politely declined the reprieve request, saying it won’t hold off fining kombucha makers until there’s a new test. Instead the agency re-released an industry bulletin about the testing policy. “Punishing kombucha producers for a grocery store’s or consumer’s error is like punishing a farmer when a supermarket sells spoiled milk,” Polis wrote back via an email. From the Associated Press
JetBlue Plants a Seed With Farm-to-TrayTable Concept Sevens’ Mixed Grill
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JetBlue Airways is trying to bring a little bit of country to the city—opening its own “farm” at New York’s John F. Kennedy International Airport. The 24,000-square-foot space—less than half the size of a football field—outside JFK’s Terminal 5 is meant to educate travelers more than actually feed them. Although eventually JetBlue would like to serve items grown there in terminal restaurants and even make some blue potato Terra Chips that are served on flights. One day, if the airport allows it, there might even be animals, such as bees and butterflies. The goal is to try and teach people about farming and to improve the appearance of the terminal’s exterior. “We know people like green space. It’s what they have at home. Why not put that at an airport if that’s what they love and want?” said Sophia Leonora Mendelsohn, the New Yorkbased airline’s head of sustainability. “Your flying experience starts on the ground.” Building a farm at an airport is not simple: It took JetBlue three years to get approval. Airports are concerned about anything that would attract wildlife, especially birds. That means no growing tomatoes, corn, berries, seeds, or sunflowers in its new garden. (The airline originally wanted to grow wheat and use it to make its own JetBlue JFK beer.)
JETBLUE VIA AP
By Scott Mayerowitz
Farmer Katrina Ceguera works at the 24,000-square-foot JetBlue “farm” outside Terminal 5 at JFK.
So instead, JetBlue is focusing on potatoes, chives, basil, carrots, and other plants deemed safe. The airline expects to grow 1,000 potato plants, yielding more than 1,000 pounds of spuds every four to six months, along with an additional 1,100 plants such as mint, arugula, beets, garlic, onions, and spinach. The project is in partnership with GrowNYC, a nonprofit environmental group that focuses on improving New York City block by block. Students will be brought in from local schools to learn about gardening. Some of the herbs and produce will be used by restaurants in JetBlue’s terminal, others will be donated to local food banks. All of the plants are grown in plastic milk crates that are bolted together and then tied to hooks in the cement floor. The structure is designed to withstand 160 mph hurricaneforce winds, another requirement of the airport’s operator, The Port Authority of New York and New Jersey. For its first few months, the farm will be closed to the public. Then in the spring, pending approval from various regulators, JetBlue hopes to have educational programs for local students. Eventually, the airline envisions allowing some of its fliers to sign up in advance for visits. From The Associated Press
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October 16–22, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
It’s the Season for Black and Orange ... Now in a Salad By Melissa d’Arabian Rice salads are a summertime staple, perfect for picnics and al fresco dining. It just makes delicious sense. They are versatile, unfussy, and can be served warm, room temperature, or chilled. Rice salads are also the perfect side dish that can be turned into a main meal just by adding some rotisserie chicken, tofu, or fish. But when the weather turns a little cooler, I want a version that manages to capture the benefits of the summer staple while managing to bring in the flavors of fall. This black rice autumn salad fits the bill perfectly. My children call this “Halloween salad” because of the orange and black color scheme. Cubes of butternut squash are dusted with pumpkin pie spice for a hint of cold weather coziness, while grapefruit and orange segments add brightness and freshness. Hazelnuts add crunch, and a tangy cider vinegar dressing (with just a splash of soy sauce and warming ginger) make
Seek out the “forbidden rice”— it’s packed with protein, iron, and fiber.
RECIPE BLACK RICE AUTUMN SALAD Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS For the Salad • 1/2 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cubed (1 inch) • 2 teaspoons olive oil • 1/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 2 cups cooked black rice, cooled • 2 cups orange or grapefruit segments (or mixed) • 1/4 cup chopped fresh mint For the Dressing • 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger • 1 teaspoon soy sauce • 2 tablespoons cider vinegar
this simple salad surprisingly complex in flavor. To turn it into a light main dish, just add some steamed shrimp. The star of the autumn salad is the black rice. Once a rare item to find, it now can often be found at most well-stocked supermarkets, frequently by the name forbidden rice. And it’s a great healthy choice. Black rice is higher in protein, iron, and fiber than even brown rice. The texture is heartier, too, and it has a pleasant nutty flavor. Note that black rice takes about twice as long to cook as white rice, so plan ahead. But it keeps its texture very well, so you can make a batch in advance and keep it in the refrigerator for several days to use in salads and soups all week.
• 1.5 ounces octopus tentacles • 20 to 25 salmon roe (about 2 tablespoons) • 2 perilla leaves, slivered • Black pepper, to taste • One quarter of a white onion, thinly sliced • One small bunch daikon radish sprouts, cut in half
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).
236 West 56th Street (212) 247-3491 www.patsys.com
Our Only Location!
• 1/4 cup orange or grapefruit juice (reserved from cutting the segments) • 2 tablespoons olive oil • 1 large shallot, minced • 1/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment. Mound the squash on the prepared baking sheet, then drizzle with the oil, pumpkin pie spice, and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Mix to coat evenly, and then spread in an even layer. Roast until tender, but not falling apart, about 20 minutes, turning halfway through. Set aside to cool. In a large bowl, mix together the rice, citrus, and mint. In a small bowl, make the dressing by whisking together all the ingredients except the shallot and hazelnuts. Once the vinaigrette is smooth, add in the shallots. Add the cooled butternut squash and dressing to the rice and mix to coat. Sprinkle with hazelnuts. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 200 calories; 80 calories from fat (40 percent of total calories); 10 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 210 mg sodium; 28 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 7 g sugar; 3 g protein.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
The brunch menu is seasonally diverse featuring both eclectic and classic selections. Organic fruits and vegetables, grass-fed meats and wild caught seafood are all locally sourced and artfully presented. County’s brunch is an exciting new option for the Flatiron District.
Brunch. Bottomless. (Pants required)
DIRECTIONS Bring a pot of water to a boil. Wash octopus tentacles, and then add to the pot, cooking for about 15 minutes, or until the tentacles turn red. Chill the tentacles in ice-cold water for 10 minutes. Pat them dry. Using a sharp knife, thinly slice the tentacles diagonally into pieces about 2 mm thick. Place slices in a single layer, slightly overlapping, on your serving plate. Garnish each slice with one salmon roe. Sprinkle with black pepper, to taste. Arrange the perilla slivers around the rim of the plate. Place onion slices in corner of plate.
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
Drizzle yuzu juice over the octopus. Drizzle olive oil over all. Garnish with daikon radish sprouts.
• 3 tablespoons yuzu (citron) juice
Recipe courtesy of Hinata Ramen
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INGREDIENTS
I
From The Associated Press
Hinata Ramen in Midtown isn’t just about noodles in flavorful broth—it also serves a dinner menu of unique dishes designed to pair with different liquors. The Hinata Octopus Carpaccio is chef Madoka Tamura’s Japanese spin on the Italian dish typically made with raw beef. This appetizer pairs well with wine or sake.
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The Restaurant You Go Back to.
Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, “Supermarket Healthy.” melissadarabian.net
Yuzu-Spiked Octopus to Pair With Your Wine
RECIPE
There are the restaurants you go to, and
Want to go Bottomless? Well here’s the deal: $25/pp added to your meal gets you all the Bloody Mary’s, Mimosas, and Bellinis you want for 1.5 hours. Brunch is served Saturday & Sunday from 11AM to 3PM. Reservations recommended.
34 East 20th Street | 212.677.7771 For more information and a full brunch menu visit CountyNYC.com
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Recipes From America’s Heartland By Orysia McCabe | Epoch Times Staff Adam and Jackie Sappington share recipes for satisfying, feel good food in "Heartlandia."
F
all is finally upon us. And as we transition from cooking in the heat of the summer, grilling outdoors, and making meals to stave off the heat, we can now look forward to enjoying the fruits of America’s heartland. In the cookbook “Heartlandia: Heritage Recipes from the Country Cat,” chef Adam Sappington and his wife Jackie offer time-honored recipes from his mother and grandmother, as well as dishes from restaurants where he worked. Jackie Sappington is a pastry chef and she offers recipes for delicious desserts and breakfast options. The book focuses on traditional American recipes and cooking. The recipes are first and foremost wholesome and flavorful. Dishes are prepared in ways that, while maybe more time consuming, honor the bounty of the land. Nothing is rushed—cook, taste, enjoy. Take for example the signature dish Deep Fried Chicken from the Sappingtons’ restaurant The Country Cat. While the cooking hardly takes any time, preparations must start two days before. The first step is to brine the chicken pieces (deboned and skin on) in water and salt for 12
Better
Than Bagels
to 24 hours, tenderizing the meat, and then into another brine of buttermilk for another 12 to 24 hours. Since the instructions gave a range for the brining time I decided make my preparation using the minimum time. Not only did I cut the prep time in half, I had tested how the minimum brining time affected the chicken. What you get is the tenderest, juiciest chicken you will ever taste. In fact my editor and her 5-year-old daughter were present while I was cooking and tasting, and when her mother asked her what she thought of the chicken, the first word out of her mouth was “Yummy.” Then she said it was the best chicken in the whole world. You can’t get any better than that. I had not expected how light the chicken would taste even though it was deep-fried in beef suet (the fat tissue from beef). We tend to think of animal fat as unhealthy and greasy, but this is not so. Fat is needed to absorb certain vitamins and it boosts the immune system. In this recipe it rendered the chicken coating crispy and flavorful. And because it has a high burning rate it is ideal for deep-frying. The chicken was juicy without a hint of greasiness and had a slight peppery taste from the lemon pepper seasoning.
What you get is the tenderest, juiciest chicken you will ever taste.
Spoonbread may be Southerners’ best-kept secret.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Often called a “Turkish bagel,” Simit are softer and lighter on the inside and crunchier on the outside.
Each SIMIT + SMITH simit is hand-rolled at our local factory and always freshly baked with no preservatives. We also serve
Salads, Sandwiches, Turkish Tea and Coffee
124 W. 72nd St, New York
3 212-496-6605
111 Worth St, New York
3 212-374-1224
11 Waverly Place, New York 3 212-784-0657 1400 Broadway, New York 4 Convenient Locations!
SIMITANDSMITH.com
Asian Restaurant Listings UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
3 212-398-0098
Sweet and Savory The next recipe I tried was the Pecan Spoonbread. This was an adventure for my palate because of the different textures and the sweet and savory combination. The bottom layer is a mixture of flour, cornmeal, onion, eggs, bacon, milk, and seasonings, giving it a bit of a grainy texture. The next layer is whipped cream— sweet and smooth on the tongue. It is topped with chopped pecans, nice and crunchy, adding yet another texture. And there is a surprise right at the end—a bit of heat from the cayenne pepper. A colleague said that it of the three recipes I tested, it was her favorite dish. The last recipe I tried was the succotash, and while you will have to buy the book to get this recipe, it was a delight to make and taste. Succotash is a vegetable dish consisting mainly of corn and beans, but what was a pleasant surprise here was the sweet cream sauce. Sappington adds a twist to this traditional dish
The chicken is deep-fried in beef suet. THAI
INDIAN
KOREAN
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
VIETNAMESE
SRI LANKAN
ASIAN FUSION
MALAYSIAN
Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
KOREATOWN
SenYa
Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
RECIPE PECAN SPOONBREAD The next time you go to a potluck, this is a good covered dish to bring. My sweet-savory spoonbread is shot through with bacon and topped with chopped pecans. Because this custardy cornbread tastes best warm with maple syrup poured over the top, I often serve it with our Skillet-Fried Chicken at brunch. It also makes a great alternative to regular cornbread. When it comes time to make the dish, I know it seems counterintuitive to top the wet pudding base with whipped cream before baking it. Don’t worry: The spoonbread firms up every time. —AS
Makes: 1 (9 by 13-inch) pan (or 12 squares)
INGREDIENTS • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more for greasing the pan • 6 thick-cut bacon slices, cut crosswise into thin strips • 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely chopped • 2 1/4 cups (11.25 ounces/321 grams) all-purpose flour • 1 1/2 cups (9 ounces/257 grams) finely ground cornmeal • 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder • 1 tablespoon kosher salt • 1 1/4 teaspoons baking soda • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 5 large eggs • 4 1/2 cups whole milk • 3 tablespoons granulated sugar • 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar • 2 1/4 cups heavy cream • 1 cup roughly chopped pecans
DIRECTIONS 1. Arrange a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350F. Lightly grease a 9 by 13-inch baking pan with butter. Set aside. 2. In a large skillet set over medium heat, warm the butter until it melts. Add the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until nearly
crisp, about 5 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Set the bacon-onion mixture aside. 3. In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, baking soda, and cayenne and whisk until just combined. In a separate large bowl, combine the eggs, milk, sugar, and vinegar and whisk until combined. Pour the wet mixture into the flour mixture and whisk until just combined. Stir in the reserved bacon-onion mixture and the fat remaining in the skillet (about 2 tablespoons fat). Pour the batter into the prepared baking pan and set aside. 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the cream on medium speed until medium peaks form. Place dollops of the cream over the top of the pudding. Using an offset spatula, gently spread the cream over the top of the pudding to cover. Cover the baking pan tightly with aluminum foil and set it in a larger roasting pan. Pour hot water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the side of the baking pan, creating a hot water bath. Bake the spoonbread for 1 hour. 5. Remove the spoonbread from the oven, uncover, and discard the aluminum foil. Sprinkle the pecans evenly over the top and return the spoonbread to the oven for 30 minutes more or until the center is just set but not dry. Remove the spoonbread from the oven and remove it from the water bath. Let stand for 30 minutes before slicing into squares and digging in. Recipe from “Heartlandia” by Adam and Jackie Sappington. Copyright © 2015 by Adam Sappington and Jackie Sappington. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.
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SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Seasoned in lemon pepper, the chicken is crispy, light, and flavorful.
&
Healthy Natural Homemade, All Natural Broth % Truly No MSG % Natural Umami Flavors % Noodles Made in Collaboration with Ippudo NYC % Vegan Options %
HINATA RAMEN
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
tako: “octopus” and yaki: “fried”/ “cooked” A true Japanese comfort food!
with the addition of blackberries. The fruit is not sweet and offers a nice counterbalance to the sweet cream. The cookbook would make a great addition to any kitchen—for both the novice cook and someone looking to add depth to his or her cooking. There are great tips in the introduction and at the beginning of each recipe on cooking and utensils. One thing Sappington repeats throughout is to read the whole recipe before you decide on a dish—make sure you know how long it will take and what’s in season. There is nothing more frustrating than to think, “I’ll make this new recipe tonight,” and then find that it takes an hour to bake or that something is not in season in your area. No special appliances were needed for most of the recipes, except for maybe a hand or stand
mixer and a blender. The photography was excellent, capturing not only the finished recipes but also a glimpse into the lives of the Sappingtons and the staff at their restaurant. And there are step-by-step photos too. I thoroughly enjoyed my cooking adventure through America’s heartland and just as an added note, my editor told me something very interesting as I wrapped up this article. Weeks after I had made the fried chicken, she had taken her daughter to a playground and afterward her daughter wanted to come to my house because “the chicken was the best!” Need I say more?
Set
The Takoyaki
(Clockwise from top L) Pecan Spoonbread, succotash, and Skillet-Fried Chicken.
“Heartlandia: Heritage Recipes from the Country Cat” by Adam and Jackie Sappington (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30; also available as an e-book)
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746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 ! Mocu-Mocu.com
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RECIPE SKILLET-FRIED CHICKEN My granny Cris had a long history with fried chicken. When she was a little girl back in the early 1900s, she delivered the crispy bird to the inmates at the old Maries County Jail, passing it through a little window right into their cells. As an adult, she made it often, and there was nothing that woman cooked better. She took the time to shake each piece in a brown paper bag, then fried it in lard in her soulful cast-iron skillet. It was the real deal, and the defining dish of my Midwest childhood. When we opened The Cat, I knew fried chicken would be our signature dish. There’s simply no substitute for good fried chicken, and I’ve upped my game by brining it in salt water for a day and soaking it in buttermilk for another day. Then I shake the chicken in a well-seasoned flour (my secret ingredient is lemon pepper) and fry it in beef suet. (You can use lard at home if you can’t get beef suet from your butcher.) And just like my granny did, I always make my fried chicken in a cast-iron skillet. If you make it in anything else, the soul of the dish disappears. —AS
Serves: 4 to 6
INGREDIENTS • 1/4 cup kosher salt • 2 each skin-on boneless chicken breasts, thighs, drumettes, and wings, breasts halved (see Chef’s Note below) • 4 cups low-fat buttermilk • 3 1/3 cups all-purpose flour • 1/3 cup lemon pepper • 1/4 cup garlic powder • 1/4 cup ground celery seed • 2 tablespoons onion powder • 4 cups beef tallow or lard
DIRECTIONS 1. One to 2 days before serving the chicken, in a large pitcher, mix 2 quarts water with 2 tablespoons of the salt and stir until the salt has dissolved. Place the chicken in a large bowl and pour the salt water over the top to cover it completely. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the chicken soak in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. Remove the chicken from the salt water and discard the water. Rinse the bowl and return the chicken to it. Pour the buttermilk over the chicken to cover it completely. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the chicken soak in the refrigerator for at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours. 3. When the chicken is ready, line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large paper grocery bag, combine the flour, lemon pepper, garlic powder, celery seed, onion powder, and remaining 2 tablespoons salt and shake the bag until combined. Working with one piece at a time, remove the chicken from the buttermilk, allowing any excess buttermilk to drip back into the bowl. Place the chicken in the seasoned flour and shake the bag until the chicken is well coated. Place the chicken on the prepared baking sheet and repeat with the remaining pieces of chicken. Transfer the baking sheet to the refrigerator and allow the dredged chicken to rest for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. 4. Line a separate large baking sheet with paper towels. In a large cast-iron skillet set over medium heat, warm the beef tallow until it reaches 325F on a deep-frying thermometer. Place five pieces of chicken in the skillet and fry, turning with a fish fork every 5 minutes and adjusting the heat to maintain a steady temperature, until the skin is golden brown and the chicken is cooked through, about 15 minutes for the breasts, legs, and thighs, and 10 minutes for the wings. (To check the chicken for doneness, remove a piece from the skillet and insert two of the prongs from your fish fork into the thickest part of the chicken flesh. The juices should run clear and warm.)
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CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
5. Transfer the fried chicken to the paper towel–lined baking sheet to drain. Fry the remaining chicken, then transfer the chicken to a platter and dig in. Chef’s Note: I use boneless skin-on chicken meat to make fried chicken easy for everyone to eat—and I encourage everyone to eat fried chicken with their fingers. If you want to go the boneless route, just ask your butcher to debone a 4-pound chicken, cut it into ten pieces, and leave the skin intact. If you use bone-in pieces instead, you may need to fry them for a few minutes longer. Recipe from “Heartlandia” by Adam and Jackie Sappington. Copyright © 2015 by Adam Sappington and Jackie Sappington. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.
It takes eight minutes of non-stop flipping and wrist flicking to turn the batter into these puffy balls.
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
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October 16–22, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF ANNE BURRELL
‘Worst Cooks in America: Celebrity Edition’ By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff This season, Food Network’s “Worst Cooks in America” whips into shape some of Tinseltown’s self-professed walking, er, cooking disasters. It’s an almost hallucinatory sight to see the actors portraying Greg Brady, Superman, and Urkel vying to stay alive and cooking, coached by Food Network vets Anne Burrell and Rachael Ray. The contestants are Barry Williams (Greg Brady on “The Brady Bunch”), Chris Soules (farmer and former contestant on “The Bachelor”), Dean Cain (best known for his role as Superman in “Lois and Clark”), Ellen Cleghorne (cast member of “Saturday Night Live”),
with Anne Burrell
COURTESY OF ANNE BURRELL
(L–R) Barry Williams, Jenni “JWoww” Farley, Anne Burrell, and Chris Soules.
DRINK TO YOUR
HEALTH
Jaleel White (known for portraying Steve Urkel on “Family Matters”), Jenni “JWoww” Farley (“Jersey Shore”), and Kendra Wilkinson (“The Girls Next Door” and “Kendra”). Contestants face challenges and one is booted off at the end of each episode.
(HAS A NEW MEANING!)
Epoch Times: In the first episode, you had a potluck to assess everyone’s skill. Anne Burrell: Yes, just the baseline challenge to see how bad everyone is. Sadly there wasn’t that much that was impressive [laughs] but the name of the game is Worst Cooks so I’m not telling these people anything they didn’t know.
Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pomegranate Soju
Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.
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Epoch Times: Watching Dean Cain I had the image of Superman in my head—and Superman can’t cook! Ms. Burrell: At some point it was hard for me because I’d be like yelling like “Greg!” to Barry Williams. “Greg! Barry!” calling him by his [character’s name], and Jaleel—trying not to call him Urkel. Epoch Times: Did Jaleel White say at any point, “Did I do that?” Ms. Burrell: No. He has shed the Urkel mantle and has left it in his past. Epoch Times: Any mistakes so far that made you want to pull out your hair? Ms. Burrell: Definitely Barry [Williams] and his cinnamon situation and the applesauce. He tried to jazz up a jar of applesauce so I suggested he put some cinnamon in, and he put in about a cup of cinnamon. That was really over the top. Ellen Cleghorne stirring things in a pan with a knife was also another … “What are you doing?” Epoch Times: What’s the vibe among all the contestants? Ms. Burrell: I have to say there’s a lot of camaraderie. No divas. I was worried that celebrities would be like “I’m not doing that.” All the celebrity recruits were very earnest in their efforts and desire to actually do well. It was great. People were really excited to learn and the recruits really do learn. Epoch Times: The season lasts six weeks. How much can you up your skill level in that time? Ms. Burrell: It’s amazing how fast, when they’re in a total immersion [environment] how much they really do pick up and it’s really important to me that the challenges we give them are yes, entertaining but they’re also building blocks. In the second episode, it was udon noodle stir-fry with chicken but that was all knife cuts. Epoch Times: What’s the toughest challenge awaiting the contestants? Ms. Burrell: I can’t give it away. I think the toughest challenge maybe is for people to get out of their own way and to remember the lessons being taught. So to follow the steps of the cooking process, to do your mise en place, to make sure all your prep work is done before you start cooking, to taste your food as you go—simple things that people don’t normally do but that can make a huge difference.
Coconut Soju
What to Try Tonight... Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
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Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
Try it with the Lemon Soju Seafood Pancake
Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine
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Epoch Times: What’s been a highlight of the series? Ms. Burrell: Working with Rachael Ray was absolutely fantastic. She and I have never worked together before although we have known each other for years, being at the Food Network, but we’ve never really gotten to know each other. I have to say, 20 minutes into the entire season, she and I were both like, “This is so cool, I love working with you … all this time we could have been friends and we had no idea.” So we are now not only colleagues but actual true friends, which is lovely. She’s a great lady.
Anne Burrell coaches recruits on Food Network’s “Worst Cooks in America.”