BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
D1 October 2–8, 2015
Coffee Innovations on
D7
So Long, Salmon
www.EpochTaste.com
Millesime’s porgy, served with heirloom tomatoes, strawberries, and gooseberries.
Chefs are putting forward little-known, delicious fish—and helping to preserve the ocean By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
S
eafood offerings at restaurants are unfailingly similar: salmon, tuna, cod. But innovative chefs are leading the way to introduce underappreciated—but delicious—fish, like sea robin, tilefish, and dogfish.
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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I started wondering, why isn’t there a [restaurant] with fish straight from the ocean?
Using fish that were once considered garbage and thrown back into the sea if they were accidentally caught, chefs are serving these little-known types in a variety of ways, whether in humble tacos or exquisite entrees. The focus is squarely on freshness and flavor, and they’re not preaching about sustainability. As Seamore’s executive chef Gregg Drusinsky said, “We’re not screaming from the hilltops, ‘We’re saving the world!’” But they are hoping to do their part to preserve the oceans’ health and relieve consumer pressure on popular, overfished species. We asked four New York chefs to talk about what drives them, what intriguing fish they’re working with, and what dishes they’re making.
W i Din n at ner
Gregg Drusinsky, chef, Seamore’s
See Fish on D2
Lau t
Tas teW in2
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Chef Dave Pasternack ESCA
Fish
continued from
D1
Chef Dave Pasternack is a true lover of the ocean, whose expertise on seafood has earned his restaurant ESCA the reputation of being one of the country’s best destinations for it. This could be because Pasternack is an avid fisherman; he grew up fishing along Long Island shores, and his eldest brother is a fisherman by trade. “[Being a fisherman] is like being a ballet dancer. If you’re going to be a good ballet dancer, you’re going to practice,” Pasternack said. “You go out [fishing] whether it’s sunny, rainy, windy, cold.” He’s made friends with a broad network of fishermen, who supply him with their fresh catches, some of which may be unfamiliar to diners. Pasternack wants to expand his customers’ palates beyond the typical fare. “I’ve been in the business for almost 16 years. I’ve taken the time to educate customers that there are species other than farmed salmon, swordfish, tuna.” He believes it’s up to chefs to change people’s minds and to put less pressure on highdemand fish. That’s why at ESCA, the wait staff is specially trained to inform diners about different fish species. Pasternack’s cooking philosophy is to keep things simple. “I’m a purist. I don’t put a lot of stuff on the fish. If you buy good quality fish, you don’t need to put a whole lot of stuff on top. Most people don’t understand that concept. They want to drown it in sauce, put 18 different things on it.”
Thresher shark grilled Sicilian style.
The Fish: Thresher Shark Thresher shark have a distinctive large tail that makes up about a third of its weight. The muscular creature uses it to herd smaller fish and then whack them before feeding. The Treatment: ‘Summer on a Plate’ Pasternack slowly grills the meat until it’s terrifically tender, and then rolls it in breadcrumbs, seasoned Sicilian style (lemon, garlic, parsley, olive oil). Paired with summer squash, tomatoes, and basil leaves, the dish is meant to be “summer on a plate,” Pasternack said. Because the shark’s meat is rather mild on its own, he adds vegetables, along with some oilcured olives, to give it brightness.
Chef Dave Pasternack.
Baja-style fish tacos with sea robin.
Chef Adam Geringer-Dunn Greenpoint Fish & Lobster Co. Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Executive chef Adam Geringer-Dunn swore off eating meat in high school after reading about factory-farming practices and the enormous resources needed to raise livestock. He then became a pescetarian, but found it difficult to find out the provenance of the fish he was consuming. So he decided to open a fish market and restaurant where people could get information on exactly where their seafood came from. Geringer-Dunn has tapped into a tight network of fishermen who supply him with all sorts of lesser-known species. Sometimes, Geringer-Dunn gets a fish he’s never tried before, like the hogfish—caught by spear and commonly found along the southeast coast. He fell in love instantly. “It’s maybe the best-tasting fish I’ve ever had in my life,” he said. Instagram has been an excellent tool to introduce diners to these fish. He often posts pictures of the daily catch, along with a short description of its habitat or unique physical features. Seafood fanatics and curious foodies alike come into the restaurant asking to try the newest variety. “Sometimes the more crazy it looks, the more people want it,” Geringer-Dunn said. Geringer-Dunn tries to get a wide variety of fish from domestic U.S. waters, rather than focusing on just local seafood. “If everyone’s only catching things out of Long Island, you’ll end up overfishing that area,” Dunn said. Because U.S. fisheries are more closely monitored than imported seafood—with catch size limits and restrictions on when fishermen can operate—Geringer-Dunn believes buying domestic catch is a priority. The drawback is that domestic wild-caught fish are often more expensive than imports, making it difficult for restaurants to source responsibly. “But when you look at the underutilized fish, things like the sea robin, you can get them very affordably, if you can find someone to supply them,” Geringer-Dunn said. So far, his commitment to sustainable seafood has paid off. He recently made Zagat’s 30 under 30 list of promising talent in the New York City culinary world.
Fish and chips with wild blue catfish.
Popeye has an anchor tattoo. Chef GeringerDunn has oysters.
LOUISIANA SE A GR
Chef Adam Geringer-Dunn.
The Fish: Sea Robin Sea robins are a bottom-dwellers that feed on crabs, shrimp, and bivalves. The fish have winglike fins that help them survey the bottom floor and dig up prey. A sea robin can also make a croaking sound using its swim bladder. The Treatment: Baja-Style Tacos Because they feed on crustaceans, sea robin flesh has a sweetness to it. Geringer-Dunn transforms it into golden-crisp nuggets for Baja-style tacos, and tops it with a chipotle-lime mayo and crunchy cabbage slaw.
ANT
The Fish: Blue Catfish Blue catfish have four pairs of whisker-like extensions surrounding their mouths. Adults have few natural predators and can live for more than 20 years. They are native to the Mississippi, Missouri, and Ohio river basins, but have overrun Chesapeake Bay since they were introduced to the waters in the 1970s. The Treatment: Fish and Chips What’s one to do with an invasive fish species that’s destroying native marine life? Catch them and eat them. The introduction of wild blue catfish led to the decline of Chesapeake blue crabs and native fish. Geringer-Dunn buys up the catfish and throws the fillets in a beer batter for an environmentally conscious version of fish n’ chips. Unlike most other bottomfeeding catfish, this one dwells in the ocean, yielding cleaner-tasting fillets, Dunn explained. The meat still had a hint of fishiness, but the beer batter successfully veiled the taste from dominating the palate. The crispy outer layer—not too greasy—gives way to a pillowy inner crust covering the still-moist fish.
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October 2–8, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Chef Gregg Drusinsky Seamore’s Drusinsky previously worked at Le Bernardin, where high-quality seafood is flown in from all over the world. “Being in New York, you don’t realize you’re surrounded by water. I started hanging out in Montauk, and my fishermen friends brought amazing fish,” he said. “I started wondering, why isn’t there a [restaurant] with fish straight from the ocean?” Seamore’s is part of a community-supported fishery program called Dock to Dish. Participating restaurants receive local fishermen’s daily catches—whatever it may be—and are guaranteed delivery within 24 hours of the catch arriving on the dock. It’s a departure from the conventional demand-based supply chain with its host of middlemen. Running a kitchen that’s susceptible to nature’s whims requires thinking on the spot. Drusinsky has learned to adapt the menu according to the daily catch: clean-tasting fish like tilefish go well with salsa verde; rich-flavored fish like mackerel are paired with stronger sauces, like curries; and sweet-tasting fish are complemented with miso brown butter. Freshness is always at a premium. Seamore’s sources its fish from mid- to North Atlantic waters, with the idea that local is freshest and thus most delicious. A daily special, called the Reel Deal, features the catch of the day paired with a sauce and three sides.
The Fish: Bluefish The bluefish have razor-sharp teeth that help it consume large-sized prey. They can grow up to 39 inches long, and have a relatively long lifespan—up to 14 years. Bluefish swim in schools that can cover tens of square miles of ocean. The Treatment: Fish Burger Bluefish have a rich, oceanic flavor, with lots of flesh—perfect for burgers. In Seamore’s rendition, they are seasoned with blackened seasoning (black pepper, cayenne powder, garlic powder, fennel seeds)—to cut through the brininess—and slathered with creamy citrus aioli. The result is incredibly satisfying: meaty, flavorful fish that are grilled to a faint smokiness, held together by a sweet potato bun. they are quintessentially American and as delicious as any of their beef counterparts.
Fish salad bowl with tilefish.
The Fish: Tilefish Tilefish live in deep, cold water, between 250 feet to 1,500 feet below. Known as “the clown of the sea,” they have colorful scales: iridescent blue-green on the back with spots of bright yellow, and blue under their eyes.
See Fish on D8
Chef Gregg Drusinsky.
Natural
The Treatment: Make It a Salad The buttery smooth taste of the fish pairs flawlessly with the fresh, mild salsa. Only lightly seasoned with salt and pepper, the fish lets the seasonal vegetables shine: sweet heirloom corn and tomatoes, and crunchy bok choy. A squeeze of lemon juice adds a dash of brightness.
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
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“Best Organic Soy Sauce” -Food and Wine Magazine
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores. (Clockwise from top L) Seared seasonal fish taco, fish salad bowl, and blackened fish burger at Seamore’s.
www.wanjashan.com
SUSHI REN 1584 2nd Ave. New York, NY 10028 212-710-8888 • ren82.com
Broad range on the menu • The freshest sushi • Friendly service Several big flat screens tuned into the latest game • Delivery and pickup •
Come dine with us today!
Recently Opened !
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Makes 4 to 6 servings
2 2 medium eggplants, about 1¼ pounds each, peeled and cut into ⅓-inch rounds 2 Olive oil, for brushing 2 3 cups Tomato Sauce, heated** 2 8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into ½-inch dice 2 ¼ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
3. Spread ½ cup of the tomato sauce on the bottom of a 9-by-13inch flameproof baking pan. Place half the eggplant slices in the pan, and top with half the remaining sauce, half the mozzarella, and half the grated ParmigianoReggiano. Cover with the remaining eggplant and top with the remaining sauce, mozzarella, and Parmigiano. Spoon ¼ cup water around the inside edges of the baking pan.
stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF THE FILLMORE ROOM
For decades, my family has made eggplant Parmigiana in the same way that our ancestors made it— with breaded and fried rounds. As good as it is, we don’t always have the time for frying, and a lighter version seemed in order, too. Here’s the delicious result, made with roasted eggplant.
rounds on baking sheets, overlapping as needed. Roast until the eggplant is tender, about 20 minutes.
IADA/ISTOCK
ROASTED EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA
4. Bake uncovered the cheese has melted, about 20 minutes. Remove from the oven. Position a broiler rack about 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat the broiler on High. Broil the eggplant Parmigiana until the cheese is lightly browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Serve hot. Or 1 24-ounce jar of Patsy’s Tomato Basil sauce, available nationwide at better grocer.
**
1. Position racks in the top third and center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450ºF. Lightly oil two large rimmed baking sheets. 2. Spread the eggplant
This recipe can be found on page 134 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.” Oyster Shooters.
THE FILLMORE ROOM’S NIGHT OF A THOUSAND OYSTERS COURTESY OF THE FILLMORE ROOM
Oyster lovers can indulge for four weeks at The Fillmore Room’s Night of a Thousand Oysters. Chef Liran Mezan will be preparing oysters in a variety of ways—baked, boiled, steamed, fried, stewed, and raw. Menu highlights include Mezan’s Baked Shell Barbecue, Oysters Casino with bacon and butter, and updated classic Manhattan Cocktail with smoky ice.
Recipe from
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant. 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com
Thursdays, Fridays, & Saturdays through Oct. 17, 6 p.m.–10 p.m. The Fillmore Room 146 10th Ave. (at 19th Street) FillmoreRoom.com COURTESY OF THE FILLMORE ROOM
A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.
✁
Our only location
Barbecue oysters. Fried oysters.
COURTESY OF PATINA GROUP
BOBBY FLAY AND SAM SIFTON IN CONVERSATION Celebrity chef Bobby Flay is well-known for his grilling skills, but recently the best-selling author and TV star has been sharing his passion for brunch with television viewers. He will join New York Times critic Sam Sifton to discuss his take on brunch classics, from lip-smacking cocktails to classic pancakes and pastries.
Chef Michael Gabriel. COURTESY OF PATINA GROUP
Sunday, Oct. 4 7:30 p.m. 92Y 1395 Lexington Ave. (at 92nd Street) Tickets: $36–$45 92y.org/Event/Bobby-Flay-andSam-Sifton
The freshest seafood, every day
O
Chef Yuji Fujinaga.
wner, Jesus Martinez, who comes from the verdant province of Galicia in northwestern Spain, is most insistent on quality, and goes to pick out fish at the market every morning at 2:30 a.m.
• Enjoy fine cuisine from Spain made from authentic ingredients, elevated by exact and careful preparation.
ALCALA
Restaurant
(212) 370-1866 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com
I LOVE JPN: GUEST CHEF DINNER AT THE SEA GRILL Craving some Japanese fare? Yuhi Fujinaga and Michael Gabriel from The Sea Grill, Koji Hagihara from Hakata Ton Ton, Craig Koketsu from Park Avenue Summer, Hitoshi Sugiura from Patinastella Tokyo, and Kazuo Yoshida from 10r8 will be exploring New York’s Japanese culinary heritage at The Sea Grill. The evening will include a five-course dinner with sake, wine, and shochu pairings. There will also be a silent auction to benefit The Gohan Society. Monday, Oct. 5, 6 p.m.–9 p.m. The Sea Grill 19 W. 49th St. Tickets: $130 TheRinkAtRockCenter.com
THE EDIBLE OKTOBERFEST Emily Petersen, executive chef at Astor Center, will prepare a traditional Oktoberfest meal, alongside pierogi by Casey Barber, author of “Pierogi Love: New Takes on an Old-World Comfort Food.” The menu will include platters of rolled, sliced Black Forest Ham and Pickles on Sticks before a family-style dinner highlighting dishes like Grilled Weisswurst, Bratwurst, Sauerkraut with Apples & Onion, German Potato Salad, and more! Tickets will give you access to all food and selective beer from Brooklyn Brewery. Wednesday, Oct. 7 6 p.m.–9 p.m. Brooklyn Brewery 79 N. 11th St., Brooklyn Tickets: $45 EdibleManhattan.com/Events
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October 2–8, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES FOR CITY HARVEST
BID AGAINST HUNGER This fall tasting event hosted by City Harvest will feature over 70 of New York City’s top chefs and mixologists. Guests will get to bid on exclusive prizes in auctions to help end hunger. Participating chefs include Bill Telepan from Telepan, David Waltuck from élan, and Pichet Ong from Qi, while Bar Goto, Betony, and Loki will host mixology stations.
Wednesday, Oct. 7 7:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Pier 36 229 South St. Tickets: $400–$100,000 CityHarvest.org
LARRY BUSACCA/GETTY IMAGES FOR CITY HARVEST
(L–R) Chefs Ted Allen, Marc Murphy, Anne Burrell, and Geoffrey Zakarian at the 2014 Bid Against Hunger.
善
THE ART OF FOOD AT SOTHEBY’S
美
Chef Michael White and fashion designer Nicole Miller will host 25 culinary icons from the Upper East Side at a dinner inspired by art from Sotheby’s upcoming auction. Participating restaurants include Le Cirque, Café Boulud, Vaucluse, JoJo, Fred’s at Barneys, The Meatball Shop, The Cecil, Pizza Beach, and The East Pole. A portion of the proceeds will benefit Citymeals-on-Wheels.
COURTESY OF VAUCLUSE
體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 ) 品味朝鮮王朝的 美味佳餚(三樓)
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty Last year's Taste of the Seaport.
THE SIXTH ANNUAL TASTE OF THE SEAPORT
Tuesday, Oct. 13 7 p.m.–10 p.m. Sotheby’s 1334 York Ave. Tickets: $135 ArtOfFoodNY.com
COURTESY OF TASTE OF THE SEAPORT
ON THE HORIZON
Taste of the Seaport will return for its sixth annual fall festival offering foodies some of the best food and beverages from the Financial District and Historic South Street Seaport. Forty local food purveyors like Barbalu, Dorlan’s Oyster Bar, and Fresh Salt will be join the event benefiting arts and enrichment programs at two local elementary schools.
South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
Saturday, Oct. 17 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Front Street to Peck Slip Tickets: $35 TasteOfTheSeaport.org
Michael White’s Pâtés en Croûte from Vaucluse.
TAPPED CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL Tapped will take over Barclays Center for the first time, for a craft beer festival featuring more than 100 craft beers, wines, and ciders. There will be samples from Stone Point Brewing Co., Old Saratoga Brewing Co., Cider City Brewing, Brew Bus Brewing, and more to enjoy from local breweries like Brooklyn’s own Braven Brewing Company, KomBrewCha, and War Flag. Chef Josh Capon, a five-time winner of New York’s Wine and Food Festival’s Burger Bash, will be serving up his award-winning
burgers. Entertainment will include Sunday football on TVs throughout the arena, and interactive games, including cornhole, largescale beer pong, and Jenga. Sunday, Oct. 25 First session, noon Second session, 3 p.m. Barclays Center 620 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn Tickets: $39 TappedFest.com
Compiled by Daksha Devnani/Epoch Times Staff
HARMONY THE SPIRIT OF SUSHI ZEN TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
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October 2–8, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF YUNNAN BBQ
tako: “octopus” and yaki: “fried”/ “cooked” A true Japanese comfort food!
Set
The Takoyaki MOCU-MOCU
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 ! Mocu-Mocu.com
Openings around town It takes eight minutes of non-stop flipping and wrist flicking to turn the batter into these puffy balls.
&
Healthy Natural Homemade, All Natural Broth % Truly No MSG % Natural Umami Flavors % Noodles Made in Collaboration with Ippudo NYC % Vegan Options %
(Clockwise from bottom L) Shao Kao Shangri La, Heirloom Tomato Salad, Cucumber & Wood Ear Mushroom Salad, and Banana Leaf Market Whole Fish.
Yunnan BBQ
HINATA RAMEN
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
COURTESY OF YUNNAN BBQ
Lower East Side’s Yunnan Kitchen has morphed into Yunnan BBQ. Erika Chou and chef Doron Wong offer a menu that is seasonal and embraces family-style dining. “What we really love about the new Yunnan BBQ, and Chinese dining in general, is the communal experience of eating family-style,” said Erika Chou in a press release. “With these beautiful large plates of Chinese barbecue as the focal point of the meal—from our take on BBQ Pork Cha Shao to whole grilled fish packed with spices—sharing becomes second nature.” Some of the large format dishes include Ma La Fried Chicken with Sichuan peppercorn and sweet pickled beets; Tea Smoked La Belle Farm Duck with cucumber, spring onion, toasted peanuts, and pancakes; and Banana Leaf Market Whole Fish with lemongrass, fresh herbs, and house chili sauce. Open for dinner Tuesday–Sunday. Closed Monday.
BRIAN DUNN
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
(off SW corner of 31st St)
New York, NY 10001 (212)594-8939
Awarded
One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
*Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
GENUINE Liquorette If the cocktail bar movement can get a little serious sometimes, mixologist Eben Freeman is working on its cheekier side with the opening of GENUINE Liquorette bar. First, take Freeman’s creation, the Cha-Chunker. This machine widens the hole of any canned beverage so that a mini-bottle of liquor can be inserted, along with a straw and a garnish. You can order a mojito or a paloma from the ChaChunker portion of the menu, but you can also request any mixed drink and receive the Cha-Chunker treatment, from gin and tonics to rum and cokes. Under a program called Rough Justice, you can also help yourself to whole bottles of spirits (you’ll be charged per ounce) or ask the bartender to mix up cocktails with your chosen bottle. For wine and beer, look to the self-serve refrigerators. Each month, the Cocktail Collective program will showcase how five bartenders from around the world work with a spirit that’s considered challenging to use in a cocktail. Those five drinks will then stay on the menu for the entire month. Finally, those who want to learn more about making cocktails can take monthly classes and bartend for themselves or their own party whenever they are at GENUINE Liquorette.
AS SEEN ON: The Wall Street Journal, Good Day New York, and Daily News.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave,
Cha Shao Pork Ribs.
79 Clinton St. 212-253-2527 YunnanBBQ.com
For his signature Cha-Chunker drinks, mixologist Eben Freeman was inspired by two cocktail trends— canned cocktails and bulldog-style cocktails, in which a mini Corona is inverted into a margarita.
191 Grand St. (between Mulberry & Mott streets) 646-726-4633 GenuineLiquorette.com
COURTESY OF TORO IRONWORKS
Toro Ironworks Kitchen and Bar Former music executive Sebouh Yegparian, a 20-plus-year resident of Greenpoint and Williamsburg, has opened a restaurant in Williamsburg, featuring Mexican-American fare—with a twist. Burritos, enchiladas, and tacos are all there, but so are ingredients like kimchi and mango. You’ll also find Hummus a la Mexicano, with hummus and salsa. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
254 Driggs Ave. (between Eckford Street & Graham Avenue) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-349-8300 ElToroTaqueriaBrooklyn.com
Tacos from Toro Ironworks.
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
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Cup o’ Innovations LUBA PISHCHIK/EPOCH TIMES
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff For those who are serious about their coee, a simple Mr. Coee machine won’t suďŹƒce. New brewing methods and machines are constantly being invented and popularized, and a connoisseur must be on top of the latest trends. The first New York Coee Festival, held Sept. 25–27, was part trade show and part educational workshop. Some of the city’s most beloved coee roasters and coee shops showcased their creations, from smooth, fruity-flavored cold-brews by Toby’s Estate to refreshing mixed drinks from Sweetleaf, a coee shop in Long Island City. Even tea lovers weren’t left out, with deep, flavorful chai tea from Brooklyn-based Dona Chai. Baristas from Toby’s Estate demoed a Marco SP9 brewing machine for the first time in the United States. Hidden from view, an underthe-counter boiler automatically pumps and refills with water. Manufacturer Alpha Dominche showed o its impressive Steampunk machine, a steampowered device that brews coee (and tea) following precise specifications of water temperature, pressure, and extraction time—thus allowing coee shops to consistently brew the same high-quality coee. The cheapest model retails at $13,500, company CEO Thomas Perez told us. LUBA PISHCHIK/EPOCH TIMES
Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class
W
hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course
The Alpha Dominche Steampunk brewing machine at the New York Coffee Festival on Sept. 26 For the home brewer, the Simpli Press is a remodel of the French press that includes a stainless steel compartment for your coee grounds, making it easier to clean up, while also preventing sediment from getting into your coee (available for pre-purchase for $60). And those who enjoy their coee deep and fullbodied are in luck: the press has a unique filter that can brew fine grinds. Throughout the day, baristas and coee experts gave workshops on a plethora of topics, including the science behind coee preparation and how to brew a better pour-over at home. Here are some tips: always preheat your brewer and coee container; use a scale to measure out your grounds; and master your water-pouring so that it’s even and consistent. The festival also featured innovations on common coee makers like the Moka Pot, used widely in Europe. Shaped like a futuristic hourglass and named “Pulcinaâ€? for its chicken beak-like spout, the new “Pulcinaâ€? Moka Pot automatically stops filtering coee at the right moment, preventing a bitter after-taste.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
$45/per person
Awabi Shabu-shabu
tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert
Never drink bitter coffee again! The “Pulcina� Moka Pot takes care of your brew.
$60/per person
Sake and Wine
Ask about our sake tastings.
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
LUBA PISHCHIK/EPOCH TIMES
A barista from Joe Coffee demonstrates how to brew pour-over coffee.
Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
(L–R) Chefs Claude Godard, Christian Têtedoie, and Jean-Louis Dumonet. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
nique Try our U ils! Cockta every r is
ou Happy H p.m. day, 5-7
Cheese, glorious cheese, at the Best of France festival in Times Square on Sept. 26.
Rendez-Vous With France The Best of France festival ran several blocks along Broadway just south of Times Square this past weekend, Sept. 26–27. It showcased travel destinations, tastings of French products, and a giant butter sculpture. Laurent Fabius, the French foreign minister, stopped by on Saturday, Sept. 26, for the festival launch. He was supposed to stay in a certain area but then he spotted them—chefs, in their gleaming white coats, and he had to go over. The call of French food is universal enough that UNESCO declared the gastronomic French meal a “world intangible heritageâ€? several years ago. Among the chefs were “MaĂŽtres Cuisiniers de Franceâ€? (or Master Chefs of France), members of an association of leading French chefs who promote French cuisine. New York City has more than 15 of them. The organization’s president, Christian TĂŞtedoie, said, “French gastronomy is constantly
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Chef Guz makes an appearance.
A giant sculpture made with President butter. reinventing itself.â€? It has immutable foundations, he said, but it evolves with current tastes and the countries where French chefs cook. There’s room for varying interpretations. Chef Jean-Louis Dumonet, who cooks for the private Union Club, prepares classics like Lièvre Ă la Royale. Meanwhile, TĂŞtedoie puts a modern interpretation on an old classic like pot-au-feu, layering sliced meat like a millefeuille, surrounding it with leek, and adding an emulsion made from the pot-au-feu broth, potatoes, and true. “For sure, it’s a modern formula,â€? said Claude Godard, owner of Manhattan’s Madison Bistro. “We try to adapt dishes for people who have a vision of the cuisine that’s a bit ancient and who might say, ‘Oh it will make me gain weight.’ So we purify and adapt the recipes.â€? Godard added, “French cuisine is wellbalanced, and it’s about putting forward products of quality.â€?
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The Fish: Monkfish Monkfish have long extensions on their heads, which act like fishing poles that bait small fish toward them. When the prey approaches, the monkfish opens wide, sucking the prey into its mouth. Chefs typically use the fish’s meaty tail to prepare dishes. The monkfish was once considered trash fish, but gained popularity in the 1980s, after famed chefs started featuring the fish (known as “poor man’s lobster� for its similar texture) on their menus. By 1999, scientists deemed the population overfished, according to the NOAA. The monkfish fishery has since been rebuilt.
(HAS A NEW MEANING!)
Roasted monkfish in saffron and mussel emulsion with fennel and zucchini. Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
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Chef Scott Burnett Millesime
The Treatment: Roasting Burnett roasts monkfish on the bone, resulting in a scrumptiously springy texture reminiscent of lobster. Next to the bone, the meat turned into gelatin-clear, slightly crunchy bits, similar to beef tendon. This totally un-fish-like quality makes for an exciting eating experience. The saffron-and-mussel sauce—the product of roasting lobster shells with onions, fennel, and mussel shells, then adding saffron, a touch of tomato paste, mussel stock, and white wine—was a rich complement that brought the umami flavor into each bite. Finally, the fennel, Swiss chard, and zucchini in the center of the dish added a garden-like fragrance.
Fish
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Located inside the Carlton Hotel, Millesime is decidedly upscale. Diners sit below a soaring skylight and dazzling crystal chandeliers. The dishes, too, are plated beautifully, with humble fish accompanied by meticulously prepared sauces. To chef Scott Burnett, sustainability means “ensuring that we have fish to eat in generations to come,â€? he said. Millesime tries its best to order the most readily available and abundant fish in local waters, which means having established relationships with fish purveyors who provide accurate information about the fish stock. “Unfortunately, you have a lot of dishonest people in the business of selling food. So you have to trust the people you work with,â€? Burnett said. He hopes that more Americans will expand their palates to enjoy dierent fish, beyond the mild-flavored species. “It’s about changing the perception that it’s a bad fish. It’s just a dierent fish,â€? he said.
The Fish: Porgy Porgy are small fish (usually about 10 inches long) that prey on invertebrates living near the ocean bottom. They use their incisor teeth to grab onto food and their molars to crush hardshelled creatures. The Treatment: Salad With Fruit For the porgy—a small, mild-tasting fish found along the East Coast—Burnett brings out the natural sweetness of the fish with a salad of tart and juicy fruits: heirloom tomatoes, strawberries, and gooseberries. The seared porgy is light and delicate, with a velvety soft texture. Drizzled with the apple cider vinegar and maple vinaigrette, the fish sings with the sunny pleasures of summer— reminding you of the most warm, inviting days of yore. Some pickled shallots add a piquant zing, while balancing out the sweetness.
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