ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 Oct. 23–29, 2015
Endless
Tacos & Tequila on
D6
Toffee sauce? Check. Sour cream? Check. Sticky Toffee Fig Cake? Check. We’re there.
Chicken Duo Goulash, inspired by the owners’ trip to Austria. What’s in these dumplings is a little piece of heavenly delight. See D2 to find out what it is.
Chicken liver mousse and vanilla butter—perfect with pumpernickel baguette.
Flying
The Head to Toe Sampler. There is a cockscomb in there, but no chicken feet.
High A cassoulet with white beans, chicken sausage, and gizzards.
The delicate Maine Crab Salad.
in
East Harlem By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
T
hese days, chicken news all seems to be about the fried chicken sandwich—whether it’s Chic-fil-A style or à la David Chang. A sandwich gets the job done quickly—whether that’s filling bellies or wallets.
Outside of speedy sandwich shops and rotisseries, chicken doesn’t get much love. It’s often overpriced and overlooked, and other proteins command more attention. So, when an experience comes that makes you ooh and aah over chicken, it’s surprising. At Tastings Social Presents Mountain Bird in East Harlem, chef Kenichi Tajima transforms chicken supplied by third-generation meat purveyors Piccinni Brothers into dishes that showcase the bird from cockscomb to tail.
See Mountain Bird on D2
D2
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
FlyinginHigh
Chicken Duo Goulash with roasted breast, braised leg, spätzle, vegetables, and smoked paprika sauce.
East Harlem
Tastings Social Presents Mountain Bird 251 E. 110th St. (between Second & Third avenues) 212-744-4422 ext. 1 tastingsnyc.com/social Hours Tuesday–Saturday 6 p.m.–10 p.m. Sunday brunch 11 a.m.–3 p.m.
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
Comfort and luxury all at once: Foie Gras Dumpling Consommé.
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
“In Japan we eat all parts of the bird. We don’t like to waste. We respect their life,” said his wife Keiko Tajima, who runs the front of the house. “The French, too. In Asia too.” She pauses. “Only in America, I think, people don’t eat the weird stuff.” Some of the “weird stuff” in this case can be found in elegant appetizers served on a doily. The Bite Size Head to Toe Sampler presents chicken as most people have not seen it before: a wing transformed into an intense, glistening lollipop drizzled with balsamic truffle reduction; a minuscule bite of chewy chicken heart bourguignon set in puff pastry; liver mousse with a savory creaminess offset by nuts and cranberries; and a cockscomb, turned into a cutlet and served with a dollop of mustard sauce ($10). “People say, ‘I like this cutlet. What is this?’” she said. “Some people aren’t even aware it’s cockscomb.” (Some don’t seem to read the menu either.) If the wings strike your fancy you can opt to get a full-sized appetizer of them. I was intrigued by the mousse. I asked for the Warm Pumpernickel Baguette with chicken liver mousse and vanilla butter ($8). I expected to see slices of bread, but instead an entire loaf arrived—warm and wrapped around the middle with crinkly paper just as you might get at a bakery in France. As a bread lover this risked being my downfall. I could have downed all of it and gone home there and then. But more awaited. The Foie Gras Dumpling Consommé is a stroke of genius and at the same time, a bit of heavenly delight. The first bite, piercing a thin dumpling skin, is a revelation: meltingly warm foie gras mousse spills into your mouth, mixing with the clear, hot chicken consommé ($12). On second thought I could have gone home happy after this. But I hadn’t touched any mains yet. The cassoulet would be a perfect riposte to the ultra beautiful Instagramable dishes that strut their stuff online ($23). It is first of all unapologetically messy. Like a cooking experiment gone awry, it looks like an explosion took place on the plate—with the caramelized blistered markings telling of the last step of its sojourn in a hot oven.
In Japan we eat all parts of the bird. We don’t like to waste. We respect their life. Keiko Tajima, co-owner
It’s chicken time! Some of the vintage decorations sport a cozy chicken theme.
A warm and gooey ending to a glorious meal. Don’t bother sharing.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Mountain Bird continued from D1
Warm Sticky Toffee Fig Cake with toffee sauce and sour cream.
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
It looks like an explosion occurred on the plate, but don’t let looks deceive you. The cassoulet is delicious.
Morton’s World Trade Center
A bird peeks out of its birdhouse perched high on a shelf behind the bar. Looks may deceive, but the wafting smell doesn’t. Here underneath the toasted breadcrumbs, you’ll find tender white beans soaking up the flavors of the stock and ingredients, mingling with chicken sausage and duck leg and gizzard confit. It’s one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes, for good reason. Texture is a matter of debate: some will like the chewier texture of the gizzards; others won’t. When the Tajimas traveled in Austria, they had dishes that tasted very homey to them— goulash and schnitzel, for example. “It tasted so familiar. It reminded us of our childhood,” Keiko Tajima said, mentioning the Japanese affinity for Western foods. Inspired by their trip, the Chicken Duo Goulash ($24) is cooked with light and dark meats using techniques that suit them best: a roasted breast with crackly skin and a braised falloff-the-bone-tender leg in a smoked paprika sauce, along with spätzle and vegetables. The latter was a medley of Brussels sprouts, snap peas, mushrooms, and carrots, but they were perfectly cooked. It is a further indication that where certain elements are glossed over elsewhere, here they are done with precision and care. Tajima might have been a predestined name. Keiko said that “Jima” contains the characters for “mountain” and “bird,” which inspired the name of the restaurant. There is not only chicken. Other winged animals include duck, sourced from D’Artagnan (in a Duck Duo with cherry brandy sauce), and ostrich from Roaming Acres (on a crostini, or served as a steak haché with french fries and green peppercorn sauce). You won’t find pork or beef, but you’ll find seafood, such as rich Shrimp Mac & Cheese augmented with even more seafood flavors— lobster bisque and shrimp vanilla sauce complement the pasta ($12). There’s also an ethereally light crab salad, with the summery notes of a mint mango coulis ($15). There are a few veg-only offerings: a luscious ratatouille; a quinoa salad with cashews, kale and sun-dried tomatoes; and Moroccanstyle vegetables. Save room for dessert. The rich Sticky Toffee Fig Cake with toffee sauce is mind bogglingly good and wonderful with the tangy sour cream ($7). The Tarte Fine aux Pommes, apple tart with vanilla ice cream, is also a fitting end to a glorious meal ($7).
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com
A summery Maine Crab Salad with mint mango coulis.
The ambiance is cozy and charming.
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus on sushi and excel at the one thing that mattered most.
The Bite Size Head to Toe Sampler: (clockwise from bottom L) Liver Mousse with cranberry and nuts, Chicken Heart à la Bourguignon Puff, Wing Lollipop, and Cock’s Combs Cutlet.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btw madison & 5th Ave.)
Over three decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like.
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF NEXT BIG BITE
stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF LUCKYBIRD BAKES
Bite-Size Berry Pies from Luckybird Bakes, which will be served at the first Farm2Fork Festival.
FARM2FORK
Saturday, Oct. 24, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Sunday, Oct. 25, 11 a.m.–2 p.m. 50 N. Third St., Brooklyn Tickets: $70–$117 farm2forkbk.com
Partnership With Children is holding its annual fundraiser, Uncorked, to benefit the nonprofit organization, which provides social services for at-risk public school children. On the food side, there’s a diversity of options: Italian restaurants Cielo at the Mayfair and Davio’s, international cuisine from Delicatessen, French-Vietnamese eatery Indochine, Mexican taqueria Tacombi, and famous cake designer Cake Bliss. Grapes The Wine Company will provide tastings of over 50 different wines from around the world. Thursday, Oct. 29, 6:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Broad Street Ballroom, 41 Broad St. Tickets: $250 partnershipwithchildren.org
Amanda Hesser, co-founder and CEO of Food52.
THE NEXT BIG BITE
CLAY WILLIAMS
Some of the food world’s most influential women will come together for a panel discussion on What You Will Cook, Eat and Crave in 2016. James-Beard-Award-winning author and chef Rozanne Gold will moderate the panel featuring Amanda Cohen, chef and owner of veggie-centric restaurant Dirt Candy; Amanda Hesser, co-founder of popular food website Food52; Marion Nestle, professor of nutrition at New York University; and Mimi Sheraton, food critic and author of “1,000 Foods to Eat Before You Die.” They’ll discuss key questions about the industry: What is the intersection of health and gastronomy? How is technology changing our industry? Why do trends matter? The event is hosted by Les Dames d’Escoffier, an international organization for women in the hospitality profession. Monday, Oct. 26 6:30 p.m.–8:30 pm. Institute of Culinary Education 225 Liberty St. (at Brookfield Place) Tickets: $65 ldny.org
Amanda Cohen, chef and owner of vegetable-centric restaurant Dirt Candy.
COURTESY OF NEXT BIG BITE
Being the center of all things hip and health-conscious, it’s no wonder Williamsburg is the chosen location for natural living publication Rodale’s Organic Life’s Farm2Fork Festival, celebrating food that’s good for the body and the environment. The event kicks off with tastings from Brooklyn restaurants that focus on sourcing local, sustainable food, such as Allswell, Greenpoint Fish & Lobster, Delaware and Hudson, and The Pines. In the evening, Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow (Diner, Marlow & Sons) will cook up a family-style meal from produce grown on urban farms. The following day, the festival will screen the premiere of an agribusiness documentary, “Food for Thought, Food for Life,” followed by a Q&A with director Susan Rockefeller and chefcum-environmental-activist Dan Barber (Blue Hill).
UNCORKED
EDIBLE ESCAPE Food magazine Edible Brooklyn is hosting its fifth annual Edible Escape tasting event, where local restaurants and alcohol purveyors serve up globally inspired dishes and drinks. This year’s participants include Brooklyn eateries like Bara, a fusion-Japanese izakaya; Palo Santo, a Pan-Latin restaurant; Indian sweets shop Bittersweet; the ever-popular Brooklyn Brewery; and coffee roaster Nobletree Coffee. Thursday, Nov. 5, 6 p.m.–9 p.m. 26 Bridge St., Brooklyn Tickets: $65 ediblebrooklyn.com/event/edible-escape
COURTESY OF THE LAMBS CLUB
OCTOBER TASTING MENU AT THE LAMBS CLUB COURTESY OF ROSSOPOMODORO
FREE PIZZA AT ROSSOPOMODORO Rossopomodoro, a Neapolitan pizza chain from Italy, is partnering with hunger relief nonprofit Slice Out Hunger to celebrate National Pizza Month. For a limited time, customers who bring in a store-bought, frozen pizza will get a freshly made Rossopomodoro pie in exchange, for free. The frozen pizzas will be donated to Food Bank For New York City. Third-generation pizza maker Pizzaiolo Rosario Granieri will fire up seasonal pies like the Zucchetta, with autumn squash, Gorgonzola, and mozzarella; the Rapini, with broccoli rabe, robiola bosina, and mozzarella; and the Siciliana, with tomato, eggplant, and garlic. Monday–Thursday, Oct. 26–29 Rossopomodoro 118 Greenwich Ave. rossopizza.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
THE MOMENT WE PLACE THE SUSHI ON THE PLATE, IS THE MOMENT IN WHICH SUSHI CAN BE TRULY UNDERSTOOD. TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
Geoffrey Zakarian, chef-restaurateur and judge on the Food Network’s “Chopped” is serving a special fall menu this month at The Lambs Club, featuring local produce from Mountain Sweet Berry Farm in upstate New York. The tasting menu will incorporate baby beets, serrano beans, Brussels sprouts, and sweet potatoes from the farm, in dishes like the Heirloom Baby Beet Salad with caramelized fennel, panna cotta, gravlax, quail egg, and horseradish; Potato Gnocchi with brown butter, sage, and burgundy truffle; and Roasted Diver Scallop and Veal Sweetbread with serrano beans, shishito pepper, and lemon caper aioli. Available until Saturday, Oct. 31. 132 W. 44th St. $105 per person, or $145 per person with wine thelambsclub.com
Mountain Sweet Berry Potato Gnocchi with brown butter, sage, and burgundy truffle, a dish on the October tasting menu served at chef-restaurateur Geoffrey Zakarian’s The Lambs Club.
COURTESY OF ALEX’S LEMONADE STAND FOUNDATION
LEMON: NYC Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation, which helps fight childhood cancer, is hosting its annual culinary event to fundraise for cancer research. This year, Alexandra “Alex” Guarnaschelli, chef at Butter Restaurant and frequent judge on “Chopped,” will host and cook. Nineteen chefs from some of the city’s most beloved restaurants will also prepare their signature plates, including Marcus Samuelsson of the Red Rooster, Bill Telepan of Telepan, Harold Dieterle of Kin Shop, Daniel Sharp of The Meatball Shop, and PJ Calapa of Ai Fiori. Tuesday, Oct. 27 6 p.m.–9 p.m. 225 Liberty St., 43rd Floor Tickets: $350 alexslemonade.org
Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation’s 2014 fundraiser to benefit cancer research.
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
Susan Cheever Chronicles Drinking in America
thai
the modern
HACHETTE BOOK GROUP VIA AP
By Leanne Italie Drinking, and not drinking, is as old as America itself, from the beer-loving pilgrims on the Mayflower and Paul Revere’s boozy horse ride to Prohibition and the rise of Alcoholics Anonymous. Some nations drink more and some less, but nowhere do those two things collide and replay on a loop through history quite like they have in the United States, said Susan Cheever, author of “Drinking in America: Our Secret History.â€? Cheever was addicted to alcohol, as was her father, author John Cheever. She’s visited the subject of drinking in the past, and she’s been in love with history since a college professor inspired her. But this project, published in October by Twelve Books, was “really a eureka moment,â€? she said in a recent interview. Nobody has really gone deep enough into American history and booze, she said. “What about the fact that 100 years before Prohibition we were the drunkest country in the world, and what about the fact that in the 19th century, writers didn’t drink,â€? Cheever said. Her book is filled with detailed anecdotes and quirky, alcohol-fueled moments through time. Cheever oers these observations among her favorite bits:
PAUL REVERE & THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION Think evening, April 18, 1775: “I’ve been to Concord, Massachusetts, many times. I really thought that the first shots of the war were fired at the Old North Bridge, so I was really shocked and interested to read about what happened on Lexington Green, where Paul Revere stopped for a couple of shots,� she said. “He got there so much faster than the British. He got to Lexington at midnight, saying ‘The British are coming, the British are coming,’ and the militia turns out, and the British aren’t anywhere near. So they all go to Buckman Tavern and drink for three hours, then the British finally get there and what ensues was 70 relatively or very drunk militiamen,� Cheever said.
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THE RUM Sure, there was the Boston Tea Party, but rum ruled the colonies: “The British were trying to tax alcohol, so no taxation without representation wasn’t great on tea but it really wasn’t good on rum. In some ways, the American Revolution was about rum. It’s as if they fought the American Revolution not for the right to vote, but for the right to drink,� Cheever said. Rum was definitely the drink of the colonies, and “no one stood for rum consumption the way Ethan Allen did.� Stories abound, the most famous of which has the leader of the Green Mountain Boys so soaked with rum that he was unaware a snake had bitten him multiple times after he fell asleep in a glen. When he awoke, he complained of the mosquitoes.
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Drinking, suffrage and taxes: “I didn’t know the way that Prohibition and women’s temperance were wrapped around each other. Many of the women’s suffrage crusaders, Elizabeth Cady Stanton and Susan B. Anthony, had started out as temperance crusaders,� Cheever said. “And it was thought that Prohibition would be great for women because drinking was a male problem. Men were drinking and they didn’t bring the money home to the women and children,� she said. “The income tax was instituted at the same time. Before then, thanks to Alexander Hamilton, almost the entire federal budget was based on liquor taxes, so they couldn’t have had Prohibition. It couldn’t happen until they had an income tax.�
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
WRITING & DRINKING Booze and the muse: “For me the biggest revelation of the book was the link between writing and drinking. It’s so limited chronologically. It’s not true until about 1925. In the 19th century, writers didn’t drink. Hawthorne, Melville, Thoreau, Emerson, Longfellow. Nope. No drinkers. It’s not about the writers. It’s about the drinking culture,� Cheever said. “Of course, some writers drink a lot, so much so that the five people who won the Nobel Prize for literature were all alcoholics, but only for two generations. I hadn’t really done the math, and then it occurred to me that, of course, it came out of Prohibition, that Prohibition made drinking that much more attractive to writers,� she said. A year-by-year analysis shows that although many famous American writers drank too much, they did that only in the years after Prohibition and World War II.
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Abraham Lincoln was a teetotaler.
ABRAHAM LINCOLN He abstained, likely due to hard-drinking relatives: “I thought I knew all about Abraham Lincoln. I did not know that he was one of those rare human beings, and I mean rare, who didn’t drink and didn’t judge. His mother asked him on her death bed not to drink and he took that very seriously,� Cheever said. “But he fired George McClellan, who was his sober general in the Union Army, and hired Ulysses S. Grant, who had already been court-martialed once for drinking. When the generals came and complained to Lincoln that Grant was drinking too much, Lincoln famously said bring me some barrels of what he’s drinking so I can give it to all my generals. He wasn’t a temperance guy.�
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MICHAEL MATHES/AFP/GETTY IMAGES
Statues of (L–R) Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B. Anthony, and Lucretia Mott in the U.S. Capitol Rotunda. “Many of the women’s suffrage crusaders ... had started out as temperance crusaders,� Cheever said. From The Associated Press
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Endless
Tacos &
Tequila
at NYC Wine and Food Festival By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff There are food parties, and then there are the Wine and Food Festival’s food parties. Every year, the Food Network, Cooking Channel, and Food and Wine magazine join hands to organize massive, gluttonous affairs around the city, from a ramen extravaganza to a barbecue meat festival—all in the name of benefiting hunger relief organizations. On the night of Thursday, Oct. 15, the object of affection was the taco. Amid an endless stream of margaritas and tequila, people noshed on top chefs’ interpretations of the humble and gloriously messy dish (“people’s food,” as chef-restaurateur and Food Network judge Aarón Sánchez noted). Bass-thumping music—a playlist of top 40 hits from the 1980s to the present—got the crowd bouncing and showing off dance moves, including the chefs themselves. Everywhere you looked, there was another taco to sample. Wes Whitsell, executive chef at the Soho House hotel, made crispy tacos with a hard shell from Anson Mills, a local mill that uses heirloom grains. Inside was warm ground beef in a fiery habanero-cider vinegar hot sauce. Munching on it was like eating an updated version of beef nachos. Jason Marcus, owner of Brooklyn’s Mexican tapas restaurant Xixa, whipped up a cute little tortilla made with butternut squash, topped with braised chicken and a pleasantly tart cranberry mole. One bite, and it’s (regrettably) gone. Marcus also made a finger-licking-good hummus dip to scoop up with a piece of endive. He added a refreshing Mexican twist by mixing in in sikil pak—a silky-smooth pumpkin seed spread from the Yucatán—chile de arból, and dill. Another memorable side dish was chef Sánchez’s zucchini, jicama, and apple salad, a bright, tangy mixture that recalled the flavors of summer. Chef Brian Tsao of Mira Sushi and Izakaya brought his signature beef bulgogi tacos, a punchy combination of sweet marinated meat, heat-packing kimchi slaw, and thin slices of Korean pear, on top of a crunchy fried wonton shell. It was utterly addictive. But the most unexpected spin was probably chef-restaurateur Marc Murphy’s pastrami taco, featuring the Jewish-American cold cut alongside a piquant chipotle slaw, Swiss cheese crema, and rye crumble. The acidic notes gave just the right accent to the smoky meat. By night’s end, partygoers likely headed home a bit sloshed, maybe with an achy full stomach to boot. But it can’t be helped, when the tacos are so irresistible and the lively mood inevitably calls for more booze.
Chef Jason Marcus mixes up hummus with “sikil pak”— Yucatán pumpkin seed spread.
3.Chef Sánchez’s zucchini, jicama, and apple salad. 4. People enjoy tacos made by top chefs.
2.
4.
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5. This butternut squash taco by Jason Marcus, chef-owner of Brooklyn’s Mexican tapas restaurant Xixa, is topped with braised chicken and a cranberry mole.
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Bring your friends and family and share in our ancient heritage. Plus, over 50 authentic Spanish tapas. Come in and pick your favorites tonight!
Meson Sevilla 344 WEST 46TH ST. (BTW 8TH & 9TH AVE.) MESONSEVILLA.COM 212-262-5890
1. Mixologists serve tequila cocktails at the 2015 New York City Wine and Food Festival Tacos and Tequila event at Urbo restaurant in Times Square. 2. Chefs Marc Murphy (L) and Aarón Sánchez.
We cook Spain’s traditional dish to perfection!
Restaurant
1.
6. Crispy tacos with warm ground beef in a habanero-cider vinegar hot sauce by Wes Whitsell, executive chef at the Soho House.
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
For Total Comfort, Embrace These Easy, Potato-Free Gnocchi By Sara Moulton You probably associate gnocchi with the Italian dumplings made from potatoes. Making that kind of gnocchi takes time and patience and is not something most people would undertake on a weeknight. But potato gnocchi isn’t the only kid on the gnocchi block. There are several other varieties, including a ricotta-based type and a batter-based one, the latter of which starts with a batter similar to the one French cream puffs and éclairs are made from. That’s the one I’ll teach you here. But there are a few things to keep in mind when preparing these gnocchi. Typically, cream puff dough—also known as pâte à choux—starts with a pot of boiling water. Here, I am substituting chicken broth and milk for the water, which give the gnocchi a nice savory flavor. After the flour is dumped in, you need to work quickly and aggressively with a wooden spoon to beat the mixture until it is smooth. Don’t worry if you get a few tiny lumps of flour in the dough; they will get worked out when you add the eggs and beat the dough with electric beaters. Once you have successfully incorporated the flour it takes no time at all to finish cooking the
paste, just a few minutes until it pulls away from the sides of the pan. The next step is adding the eggs. It is important to cool down the paste a bit by beating it before you add the eggs so they don’t scramble the second they hit it. The usual directions tell you to add the eggs one at a time, but I prefer to beat them together first, then add the beaten eggs in three batches instead. It is very hard to add the eggs one a time if you are holding hand beaters with one hand. Once the eggs are in, it is time to add the seasonings, in this case spinach, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Simple. Your dough is made. The rest of the procedure is straightforward. The dough gets dumped in small amounts into boiling water, cooked briefly and finished in the oven with cream and cheese. If you happen to own a 1/8 cup ice cream scoop that would be the perfect tool for dropping the dough into the water. If you don’t, a tablespoon is fine, just make sure to dip it into hot water each time before you scoop up the dough and mound the dough well on top of the spoon before sliding it into the water (the hot water on the spoon helps the dough to slide off easily). The gnocchi can be made ahead and chilled. Just let them sit at room temperature for about an hour so they can warm up a bit, then top them with the cream and cheese and bake them off. This is the essence of comfort food; your family will love you. Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.” From The Associated Press
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
RECIPE BAKED SPINACH GNOCCHI WITH PARMESAN CREAM SAUCE Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 10 minutes (50 minutes active) Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS • 11-ounce package baby spinach • 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth, divided • 1/2 cup whole milk • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces • 1 cup (4 1/4 ounces) all-purpose flour • 3 large eggs, beaten lightly • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper • Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg, or to taste • 1/2 cup heavy cream • 1 ounce finely grated Parmesan cheese • 1 1/2 ounces (about 1/2 cup) coarsely grated Gruyère cheese
DIRECTIONS Pour 1/3 cup water into a 12-inch skillet. Top it with the spinach, then set over high heat. Cook, covered and stirring occasionally, until the spinach is wilted, about 5 minutes. Transfer the spinach to a colander and run cold water over it to cool it. Working with a handful at a time, squeeze the spinach with your hands over the sink to remove excess water. Finely chop the spinach; you should have about 1/2 cup packed. Set aside. In a small saucepan, combine 1/2 cup of the chicken broth, the milk and the butter and bring to a boil. Remove the pan from the heat, add the flour and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until smooth. Return the pan to medium heat and cook the paste, stirring, until it pulls away from the sides of the pan and leaves a thin
film in the bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and, using an electric mixer, beat the mixture for a few minutes to cool it down. Add the eggs, a third of the mixture at a time, beating well after each addition. Stir in the salt, pepper, nutmeg, and reserved spinach. Heat the oven to 425 F. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Lightly butter a 9-by-9inch shallow baking dish or gratin dish. Working in batches of 8 at a time, drop walnutsize balls of the dough into the water, using either a small 1/8-cup ice cream scoop or a tablespoon (you will need to mound the dough if using a tablespoon), dipped in warm water each time. Maintain the temperature of the water at a simmer and cook the gnocchi for 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the boiled gnocchi, shaking off the excess water, to the buttered baking dish. Repeat with the remaining dough. In a small bowl, mix together the remaining chicken broth and the heavy cream, and then pour the mixture over the gnocchi. Sprinkle both cheeses over the top and bake on the oven’s upper shelf until the liquid has reduced slightly and is bubbling around the edges, about 15 minutes. Increase the heat to broil and broil the gnocchi until the top is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Serve right away.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 610 calories; 380 calories from fat (62 percent of total calories); 43 g fat (25 g saturated; 1 g trans fats); 290 mg cholesterol; 820 mg sodium; 31 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 3 g sugar; 26 g protein.
Busy Nights Call for Fast Food, but No Takeout Needed By Melissa D’Arabian School, children, work. ... It’s always something. Whatever the culprit, we are all busy. And on those crazy-busy days, dinner can sneak up on me, and suddenly I find my whole family ravenous. And the busier and more hectic the day, the more likely we are all craving something satisfying and hearty. And this, my friends, is the perfect storm for making some regrettable food choices. This is when the pizzas get ordered out of desperation, not true desire. And I like to save the oncein-a-while foods like greasy Chinese takeout or drive-thru burgers for just that: once in a while. In our house, fast food is for cravings, not convenience. When we need a tasty dinner fast (so a trip to the supermarket is out of the question), I turn to a trusty protein source: the egg. Eggs remain one of the least expensive proteins around. Yes, you can do scrambled eggs for dinner (and we do!), but to bump the egg up a notch and get it squarely out of breakfast-for-dinner territory, try these baked eggs in sweet pepper sauce. Fill a ramekin with about 1/2 cup of sauce or fillings (from cooked meat to tomatoes to salsa and black beans), add the egg and bake for about 8 minutes. Serve with some nice bread
RECIPE BAKED EGGS IN SWEET PEPPER SAUCE Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS you keep in the freezer for just such a culinary emergency, and your fast food becomes a feast. The sauce for these baked eggs uses healthy fast foods you can keep in your pantry, such as jarred roasted red peppers and simple marinara sauce (just check the labels to avoid added sugars). You can throw the whole thing together in less time than it took you to read this. Really. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, “Supermarket Healthy.” melissadarabian.net From The Associated Press
• 1/2 cup chopped jarred roasted red peppers, drained • 2 tablespoons capers, chopped if large • 1/4 cup chopped Kalamata olives • 1 teaspoon Italian seasoning • 1 1/4 cups jarred marinara sauce • 4 eggs • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • Baguette, sliced
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 350 F. In a small microwave-safe bowl, mix
together the red peppers, capers, olives, Italian seasoning, and marinara. Heat in the microwave (cover with a paper towel to avoid splattering) on high until warm, about 30 seconds (depending on oven). Mist four 8-ounce ramekins with cooking spray. Divide the sauce among the ramekins. Use the back of a spoon to make a crater in the sauce at the center of each ramekin. One at a time, crack each egg into a small bowl, and then gently transfer it to the crater in each ramekin. Season with salt and pepper, then give a quick mist of cooking spray. Set the ramekins on a rimmed baking sheet and bake until the whites are set, but the yolks are still runny, 8 to 10 minutes. Serve with slices of baguette.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 240 calories; 80 calories from fat (33 percent of total calories); 9 g fat (0 g saturated; 2 g trans fats); 215 mg cholesterol; 1020 mg sodium; 29 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 5 g sugar; 12 g protein.
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
HALLOWEEN TREATS
Time to Dress Up Popcorn By Sara Moulton
Often called a “Turkish bagel,” Simit are softer and lighter on the inside and crunchier on the outside.
Better
Than Bagels
It’s that time of year again, when gaggles of little ghosts, goblins, and ghouls expect sweet treats. Whether you are hosting a graveyard’s worth of spooks or need to supply the treats for a classroom party, this year consider ditching candy in favor of an easy treat you can cook up yourself. I’m talking about popcorn. It’s not only tasty, filling, and easy to prepare, it’s versatile, too. Make it sweet and it’ll win with children. Having an adult party? Make it savory! Start from scratch by popping the corn kernels on the stove. Those microwave bags of popcorn from the supermarket? You don’t need them. Sure they’re convenient, but most of them also are filled with additives, including hydrogenated fat, artificial colors, and flavors, and way too much salt. My recipe for stovetop popcorn cooks up in a jiffy. As in just 5 minutes start to finish. In fact, the whole process is over so quickly that I urge you to stay near the stove until all the corn is popped. I’ve also minimized the dan-
ger of burning by specifying a pan that’s just the right size, one that allows you to set out the kernels in a single layer. With the corn popped, you can then go sweet or savory. For adults, there are Parmesan-garlic and blue cheese-hot sauce options. (Either version would also score big on Super Bowl Sunday). For children, there’s marshmallow popcorn balls (with an optional dash of cinnamon) or double-chocolate popcorn balls. And neither child option requires any special candy-making skills. You just melt and mix the ingredients with the popcorn, then shape it into balls after it has cooled, a job the children might want to help with.
This year, consider ditching candy in favor of an easy treat you can cook up yourself.
Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.” From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
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It takes eight minutes of non-stop flipping and wrist flicking to turn the batter into these puffy balls.
RECIPES HALLOWEEN POPCORN TREATS
• 1 batch popcorn
Prep & Cooking Time: 5 minutes Makes: 11 to 12 cups
• 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
FOR 1 BATCH OF POPCORN
• 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon (optional)
• 1/2 cup popcorn kernels
DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS
In a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, spread out the popcorn in an even layer. In a medium saucepan over low heat, combine the butter and salt and cook until the butter is melted. Increase the heat to medium, add the marshmallows and cinnamon, if using, and cook until melted, stirring constantly. Pour the mixture over the popcorn and quickly mix until all the popcorn is well coated. Let the mixture cool slightly. Oil your hands and form the marshmallow mixture into 12 balls.
Remove the pan from the heat, add the remaining kernels and return the pan to the burner. Cook the popcorn over mediumhigh heat, covered, with a tiny gap to let the steam escape, shaking the pan occasionally until the popping noises slow down to once every 3 to 4 seconds. Remove from the heat.
Mon & Tues 4-8 pm
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Use the popcorn in one of the following variations:
PARMESAN–GARLIC POPCORN
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 180 calories; 80 calories from fat (44 percent of total calories); 10 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 15 mg cholesterol; 60 mg sodium; 23 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 12 g sugar; 1 g protein.
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Craft Beer 2 Wine 2 Fresh Salads 2 Hand Cut Fries Catch the game on our 40” TVs
• 5 cups mini marshmallows
• 3 tablespoons vegetable or grapeseed oil
Place the oil in a large saucepan at least 8-inches across at the bottom. Add 3 popcorn kernels, cover, and cook over mediumhigh heat until the kernels pop. This lets you know when the pan is hot enough. HAPPY HOUR
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 teaspoons finely minced garlic • 1 batch popcorn
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
• 1 ounce grated Parmesan cheese • Fine salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS In a small saucepan over medium-low, heat the butter and the garlic until the butter is melted. In a large bowl, toss the popcorn with the butter mixture. Add the cheese, toss, then season with salt and pepper and toss again.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 100 calories; 70 calories from fat (70 percent of total calories); 8 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 10 mg cholesterol; 85 mg sodium; 6 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 2 g protein.
Makes: 12 • 1/2 cup sugar
SPICY BLUE CHEESE POPCORN • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter • 2 ounces crumbled blue cheese • 1 tablespoon hot sauce • 1 batch popcorn
DIRECTIONS In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the cheese and hot sauce and stir until the cheese is melted. In a large bowl, toss the popcorn with the cheese mixture.
NUTRITION INFORMATION 718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
DOUBLE CHOCOLATE POPCORN BALLS
Nutrition information per serving: 110 calories; 80 calories from fat (73 percent of total calories); 9 g fat (3.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 15 mg cholesterol; 85 mg sodium; 6 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 2 g protein.
MARSHMALLOW POPCORN BALLS Makes: 12
• 1/2 cup light corn syrup • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder (not Dutch processed) • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • 1 batch popcorn • 1 cup bittersweet chocolate chips
DIRECTIONS In a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the sugar, corn syrup, butter, cocoa, and salt. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove the pan from the heat and add the popcorn. Stir to coat well. Cool to lukewarm, and then stir in the chocolate chips. Oil your hands and form the marshmallow mixture into 12 balls.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 220 calories; 120 calories from fat (55 percent of total calories); 13 g fat (6 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 10 mg cholesterol; 50 mg sodium; 30 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 21 g sugar; 2 g protein.
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October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
Peanut Brittle Meets Bacon By Elizabeth Karmel Halloween is the time for old-fashioned treats. Apple bobbing, caramel apples, popcorn balls, and peanut brittle! I first made peanut brittle as a child with my grandmother. It was simple, crunchy, and delicious. Peanut brittle is easy enough for children to make, though working with molten sugar requires adult supervision. Once you start cooking, the recipe moves rapidly along, so make sure you have everything set out next to the stove before you start. You also will need a large, heavy-duty saucepan, as the brittle foams up and expands at the end of the process. You can use a candy thermometer to know when you’ve cooked the sugar to the so-called hardball (255 F to 260 F) stage, or you can just use a cup of ice water. This is what my grandmother did and what my mother and I still do. Just fill a 2-cup measuring glass with water and ice. Keep it close to the stove. When you think the sugar is ready, drizzle a few drops into the ice water. If the small drops of the sugar syrup instantly turn into candy balls, the sugar base of the peanut brittle is done. Once the sugar reaches the hardball stage, the fun begins. You quickly add the peanuts, bacon and a bit of butter, then stir quickly. Next up, cook this delicious mixture to a light caramel. It should be lightly golden brown—the color of peanut brittle—and reach 300 F to 305 F. Next, add the baking soda, stir vigorously and immediately pour onto a buttered baking sheet. Don’t be afraid of the frothing mass in the saucepan! The baking soda makes the brittle bubble up to create the tiny bubbles in the peanut brittle, making it crunchy instead of just plain hard. Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pitmaster at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.” From The Associated Press
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
RECIPE BACON-PEANUT BRITTLE (PIG CANDY) This brittle is crazy good and everyone loves receiving it. The trick is to buy thick, meaty apple wood-smoked bacon, then dice it and cook the bacon slowly until the fat is fully rendered and the meat is a reddish mahogany. Press the bacon pieces between paper towels to make sure all the excess fat is absorbed. If you don’t do this, the candy will have a cloudy appearance.
Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour (30 minutes active) Serves: 4 Makes: about 1 pound
INGREDIENTS • 2 tablespoons butter, divided • 2 cups sugar • 1 cup light corn syrup • 1 tablespoon ancho chili powder • Pinch cayenne pepper • 1 cup salted, roasted peanuts • 2 cups cooked, crumbled apple wood-smoked bacon
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Add the ancho chili powder and cayenne, and then cook for another 2 to 3 minutes. The sugar mixture should now be at the hardball stage, or 255 F to 260 F. Stir in the remaining butter, as well as the peanuts and bacon. Continue cooking until the mixture is golden brown and reaches 300 F to 305 F. Stir well, then add the baking soda and stir again. Immediately pour onto the prepared baking sheet and use a silicone spatula to spread evenly. Set aside to cool, about 30 minutes.
Small Course
(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
$45/per person
Awabi Shabu-shabu
tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person
Sake and Wine
— ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
DIRECTIONS
Nutrition information per serving (a 2-ounce serving): 480 calories; 190 calories from fat (40 percent of total calories); 21 g fat (6 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 25 mg cholesterol; 580 mg sodium; 74 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 70 g sugar; 12 g protein.
COURTESY OF VOILA CHOCOLAT
BANGKOK
STREET FARE
Heaven for Food Lovers Yaowarat is one of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods, founded by East Asian traders in Siam over 200 years ago. It is a heaven for food lovers, blending the centuries old Thai and East Asian influences in an eclectic mix of street vendor cuisine. Experience the authentic taste of Bangkok street fare, at Sookk.
Halloween Tea at The Plaza The Palm Court at The Plaza is hosting a Trickor-Treat Tea on Oct. 30 and Oct. 31 (noon–5 p.m.). It includes a Halloween Eloise Tea menu, with orange cotton candy, candied apples, and black currant macaroons—on top of savory sandwiches and scones. A festive candy cart will feature popular candy. $65.
Try Our Affordable Daily Lunch Specials.
Bring Sookk to you! Catering and delivery available.
768 Fifth Ave. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) 212-546-5300 www.theplazany.com/dining/palmcourt
www.danasbakery.com
Tickets available at www.brownpapertickets. com/event/2382172 Cauldron of Cheese Let’s face it, Halloween is known for being all about sweets through and through. For a savory option, The Creative Kitchen is offering a free children’s cooking class hosted by Emmi Roth USA featuring a “cauldron of cheese” on Oct. 28, 4–5 p.m. Whole Foods Market Tribeca 270 Greenwich St., Second Floor Cafe To register: events@thecreativekitchen.com Halloween Candy The local drug store is fine in a pinch but if you have more time, head over to Handsome Dan’s (East Village) for an excellent (and sometimes nostalgic) selection. On Halloween it will serve hot mulled apple cider and orange cotton candy and give out vintage candy like warheads and caramel apple pops. In the West Village, Sockerbit features GMO-free Swedish candy like rambo
twists (strawberry and vanilla licorice) and huggormar (gummy snakes in fruity or cola flavors). Handsome Dan’s 186 First Ave. 917-965-2499 www.handsomedansstand.com Sockerbit 89 Christopher St. 212-206-8170 www.sockerbit.com
SOOKK
2686 Broadway (Broadway & 103rd St.) New York, NY 10025 (212) 870-0253 Don your costume and head to Eataly on Oct. 31 for brews and bites.
Casks and Masks at Eataly Beer lovers, don your costumes and head over to Eataly’s rooftop restaurant La Birreria on Oct. 31. From noon to 10 p.m., 20 brewers—including Dogfish Head, Birra Baladin, and Transmitter—will be on-site with dozens of beers, served alongside bites from Eataly’s chefs. 21 and older only. The $4 beer and food tickets available at the door.
COURTESY OF THE PALM COURT AT THE PLAZA
Chef Swap Halloween is still a work night for chefs, so this year the chefs at Astoria favorites Queens Comfort and Queens Kickshaw are switching identities. On Tuesday Oct. 27, 7 p.m.–9 p.m., chefs Donnie D’Alessio (Queens Comfort) and Kenji Hurlburt (Kickshaw) will be cooking at each other’s restaurants, in each other’s respective styles. For $85, the fourcourse, two-drink menu will take place at both locations, with a haunted tour to shuttle guests between the locations.
Make your own chocolate treats at Voilà Chocolat. COURTESY OF EATALY
Candy Bars in a Macaron French confectionery meets American candy bars flavors with Dana’s Bakery’s Halloween Macaron Candy Box. Here are just two examples: the Mac-a-teer with a silver shell and 3 Musketeers-infused chocolate ganache filling; and the Strawberry MacBurst, a sugar-coated pink shell encasing a strawberry-flavored Starburst-infused filling. $2.50 a piece or $30 for 12. Available online for nationwide shipping.
Ask about our sake tastings.
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com
NUTRITION INFORMATION
Halloween Picks
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu
white or red wines.
Once the brittle is cool, break into pieces by hitting the bottom of the sheet pan on the counter. Store in an airtight container at room temperature or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
In a large, heavy saucepan over medium-high, combine the sugar and corn syrup. Stir until the sugar dissolves and the mixture is bubbly and slightly thick, 3 to 4 minutes.
hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
200 Fifth Ave. 212-937-8910 www.eataly.com/us_en/nyc-la-birreria Make Your Own Chocolate Treat Guests young and old can head to Voilà Chocolat anytime before Halloween to make chocolate jack’o lanterns, skulls, and pumpkinspiced truffles. On Halloween, trick-or-treaters can expect a fine-chocolate treat from the store (while supplies last). As for adults who aren’t particularly keen on getting into costume and going to a bar, the shop’s chocolatiers will host a couple of evenings where guests can make their own chocolate jack-o-lanterns or skulls while drinking beer, wine, prosecco, or hot chocolate and munching on the housemade snacks. Oct. 24 and Oct. 31, 8–10 p.m., $45.
Sevens’ Mixed Grill
A Turkish Feast
you’ll always remember The Halloween candy cart in the Palm Court at The Plaza.
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221 W. 79th St. 212-920-8799 www.voila-chocolat.com
MEDITERRANEAN TURKISH GRILL
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
158 West 72nd St. NY • (212) 724-4700
www.seventurkishgrillnyc.com *valid for dinner 5 pm - 11 pm
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All the Cider Fit for Drinking—and Cooking
INGREDIENTS • 1 pound salmon • 4 cups hard cider • 1 cup brown sugar • 3/4 cup kosher salt • 1 tablespoon each: mustard seed, fennel seed, peppercorns, coriander seed • 1 star anise
dissolve the salt and brown sugar. Remove from heat, add ice to the pan, and stir. Once brine is tepid in temperature, pour over salmon and place in refrigerator for up to 2 days but no less than 2 hours. To smoke the salmon, place 1 cup of wood chips (such as hickory) in hot water and let soak for an hour. In your home grill, make a fire. When the coals are white hot, move them over to one side of the grill. Place the wood chips directly on the coals. Next, take the salmon out of the brine and place it on the opposite side of the grill. Close the lid. Let smoke for 15 minutes.
• 1 cinnamon stick • 2 cups ice
DIRECTIONS Place salmon in a large bowl. In a medium-sized saucepan, add all ingredients except salmon and ice. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 3 minutes to
Check the salmon’s doneness by inserting a fork in the middle, then laying the fork tongs on your hand to test the temperature. If it’s warm, it’s done. Remove the salmon and gently place on a plate. Recipe courtesy of chef Adam Sappington
Farnum Hill Cider has a flavor profile similar to white wine. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
RECIPE CHICKEN OF THE WOODS Serves: 6 to 8 For the Mushrooms • 3 pounds chicken of the woods mushrooms • 1/2 pound unsalted butter, melted • 2 cups olive oil • 4 cloves garlic • 4 shallots • 6 ounces ginger juice • 8 ounces fresh chives • 4 ounces fresh thyme • 4 ounces fresh parsley
DIRECTIONS Heat oven to 200 F. Blend all ingredients except the mushrooms together coarsely to make a marinade. Toss the chicken of the woods mushrooms in the marinade until well coated. Grill mushrooms for 1–2 minutes until browned, then return to the marinade. PETR SVAB/EPOCH TIMES
Fall is apple season, which means it’s time to drink some warm, comforting hard cider. But why not try cooking with it too? Adam Sappington, who is executive chef at the popular farm-to-table restaurant The Country Cat in Portland, Ore., said hard ciders are great to use in brines because they add “the complexity of the fruit component, as well as kicking it up a level with spice.” Sappington recommends opening up a bottle of cider to enjoy, then leaving it out overnight so that the cider goes flat. This way, the effervescence won’t ruin the texture of the meat while brining, he told us via email. The brine can be used for salmon, pork, or chicken. Another way to use hard cider is to substitute it for white wine when cooking clams. “[It’s] a great way to bring out the brininess that shellfish possess. And it brings a sweet-sour note that can be balanced with cream and fresh thyme,” Sappington said. Cider bar Wassail on the Lower East Side not only serves a stunning array of hard ciders from around the world, they also use the liquor in their vegetable-centric food menu. Chef Joe Buenconsejo frequently tastes new ciders and experiments to see how they can be incorporated into dishes. The flavor is distinct to the apples used and where they’re grown. Buenconsejo has learned that ciders are ideal for cooking with pork, and vegetables like squashes and mushrooms “because they have the feel, texture, and bite of meat,” he said. A home cook can also reduce the cider to a syrupy consistency, and then use the sauce to dress a salad of bitter greens, or serve it with cheese. “The sky’s the limit,” Buenconsejo said. At Wassail, he serves a seasonal mushroom, chicken of the woods, with a broth made from hard cider and smoked onions. Buenconsejo uses a cider infused with seaweed from Urban Farm Fermentory in Maine. “It has a briny, ocean-y, savory taste that goes well with food,” he said. He also adds sourdough starters, essentially fresh yeast, to give the broth more flavor. All together, the broth takes on salty, tart yet smoky qualities. To prepare the chicken of the woods mushroom, Buenconsejo marinates it like its namesake, using garlic, shallots, herbs, and ginger. He then grills it and makes it into a confit, brushes it with olive oil, and grills it one more time before serving. Because cider companies in the United States still produce on a small scale, boutique varieties are rarely sold in liquor shops. You won’t be able to find the seaweed cider Buenconsejo uses. As a substitute, Wassail co-owner Jennifer Lim suggested using a scrumpy (cider with yeast left unfiltered) from Hudson Valley Farmhouse, which sets up shop at the Union Square farmers’ market. Lim said the low-alcohol content of cider makes it great for pairing with meals. In cooler weather, she recommends drinking scrumpy—which typically has some sediment left in it, making it a fullerbodied drink—or pommeau, a drink made from apple juice and apple brandy. The steps for preparing the mushroom dish can be a bit complicated, so Buenconsejo has devised a simplified version for home cooks.
HARD CIDER BRINED SMOKED SALMON PETR SVAB/EPOCH TIMES
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
RECIPE
Place mushrooms in a large baking pan, distributing evenly, and pour the marinade over the mushrooms. Bake in a 200 F oven for 30 minutes, then let it sit at room temperature for 1–2 hours. Store in the fridge until ready to serve.
For the Bulgur • 1 cup bulgur • 2 tablespoons chopped shallots • 2 cups vegetable stock
For the Greens • One bunch tatsoi or bok choy • 1/2 bunch green garlic • 1/2 bunch onion chives
DIRECTIONS Trim the tatsoi or bok choy into 2-inch pieces. Discard the stems. In a hot skillet, sauté all ingredients for 5 seconds—just enough to wilt the leaves.
For the Consommé • 2 cups mushroom stock • 2 cups dulse cider • 3 tablespoons fresh whole-wheat starter
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 4 ounces kelp
• 10 grams chopped chives
DIRECTIONS
DIRECTIONS Heat a small pot and sweat the shallots. Add bulgur and toast for 3–5 minutes, constantly stirring. Add stock and cover. Simmer for 15–20 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Add chives after the mixture is cooled.
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
Make Epoch Taste Even Tastier
• 1 pound button mushrooms • 2 ounces seaweed
DIRECTIONS Mix all ingredients in a blender, and blend on low speed. Do not allow it to liquefy, as the raft should be a bit coarse.
For Plating • Lemon juice, to taste • 3 water chestnuts, thinly sliced
DIRECTIONS Place bulgur in the center of the serving plate, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice. Shred mushrooms and reheat in the oven until just warm. Toss warm mushrooms with the greens. Arrange the mushrooms and greens on top of the bulgur.
W i Din n at ner In a medium pot, add all ingredients and simmer for 40 minutes. Strain.
Garnish with water chestnuts.
For the Raft • 4 egg whites
Recipe courtesy of chef Joseph Buenconsejo
• 1 garlic
This recipe has been simplified for the purposes of this publication.
• 1 shallots
Lau t
Tas teW in2
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Pour consommé into the middle of the dish.
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@EpochTaste
October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
Lucky Peach Is Learning to Love the Easy Side of Asian Food By Michele Kayal Disney princesses reimagined as hot dogs and drunken rants by name-brand chefs are de rigueur for quarterly food magazine Lucky Peach. But a new cookbook from the journal’s editors leaves most of that on the table, favoring instead a just-campy-enough approach to Asian home cooking. Launched in 2011 by New York food writer Peter Meehan and Momofuku chef David Chang, Lucky Peach combines award-winning long-form journalism with that special brand of hipness designed to make outsiders know where they stand. The cookbook from the self-proclaimed “cult” food magazine has some of that—see the chapter intro that mentions a staff Bacchanalia on Richard Branson’s private island—but also goes a long way to making you a master of easy Asian cooking. Delicious, straightforward recipes for items such as shrimp-and-chive dumplings and the Japanese pancake called “okonomiyaki” fill “Lucky Peach: 101 Easy Asian Recipes,” along with romping commentary that makes the book fun to read as well as to cook from. We talked with Meehan about the book, the magazine, and the future of Asian cuisine in America. Edited for length and clarity. Q: In 2011, with big magazines such as Gourmet out of business, you and David Chang founded Lucky Peach. Remind readers of the thought process there. A: It seemed like a good idea at the time, for purely creative reasons. I was a writer and I had stories I wanted to write that I couldn’t place. As a chef, there were only certain things people wanted Dave to do. They wanted the bear to dance. For him, it was so he didn’t have to be the dancing bear. And for me, so I didn’t have to write the story about how the bear danced. We were young and full of ideas and we didn’t think about the potential for success. We just thought about doing it. I hate to short sell us, but we were in the right place at the right time and it hit a chord.
The bigger food culture has accepted chefs cooking Asian or Asian-ish food. You don’t see miso in italics anymore because it’s a scary foreign word. Peter Meehan, writer and editorial director, Lucky Peach
Chinese black vinegar is an easy-to-get gamechanger for home cooks.
Q: What do you think that chord was? A: It’s so hard to say things without feeling incredibly self-congratulatory. But I think there was an honesty and a directness, a transparency. We didn’t make another lifestyle magazine, we wrote about our lives. Once that first issue was a success it gave us an opportunity to expand the conversation around food, and to let writers write at the length they needed to tell their stories, and to showcase what chefs were passionate about outside of seasonal roundups and easy recipes.
And we found there is a huge audience of people who cook at home, who eat out a lot, who are in their late 20s to early 40s. I think guiltily that we write the magazine we want to see. And that’s the constituency I’m most concerned about—making a magazine I don’t hate. And then it’s always comforting when people want to come on that ride. We print 100,000 copies and distribute all of them. We’re big for a little magazine. Q: Did the magazine push the envelope more on journalism or on food? A: It’s hard for me to be the person answering that question. If we pushed either of those conversations at all, then I feel great about it, because those are my passions and my profession. But I think it’s great to see other magazine stories getting longer, their curiosity about cuisines getting more diversified. If we’re helping move either of those bars forward, that’s an enormous success. Q: Early on, you prided yourself on difficult recipes. Why this book, why these very approachable recipes? A: This felt like unexplored territory for Lucky Peach. For as much as I love and have a bookshelf full of nostalgic Oriental cookbooks from the ’70s, they’re useless. And they’re bad. The food from them doesn’t taste good. So bringing what I know and what we know collectively about Asian cuisine, I feel like it was a useful, timely cookbook. Many of these recipes are things my wife and I have made at home for years. Q: You’ve got so many classics in here: cumin lamb, scallion pancake, sticky rice in lotus leaves. You could do a whole dim sum at home. What’s your favorite recipe? A: I ate the entire portion of cumin lamb pictured there. Which was very gross, but very delicious. Miso claypot chicken, no claypot. Now I add a couple of Chinese sausages to it. We eat it twice a week and the kids eat it. Then there’s a “Chineasy” cucumber salad in the front of the book that uses black vinegar, and that’s a really exciting, cool, eye-opening ingredient that you can order from Amazon
UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com
RECIPE INGREDIENTS • 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable, divided • 2 large yellow onions, halved and thinly sliced (about 5 cups) • 1 pound ground pork • 1 tablespoon chopped garlic • 2 tablespoons gochujang • 1 tablespoon Sichuan peppercorns • 1 teaspoon chili flakes (preferably gochugaru) • 1 tablespoon soy sauce • 1 tablespoon sugar • 1/4 cup water • Kosher salt • 2 cups coarsely chopped bok choy • Fresh wheat noodles (lo mein or ramen), rice noodles, cooked spaghetti, or rice, to serve • Chopped scallions, to serve
DIRECTIONS In a wide, deep sauté pan or a 3-quart saucepan over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onions and cook, stirring and folding, until the onions are light golden but still retain their shape, about 15 minutes.
Q: The inaugural issue of Lucky Peach was about ramen. You’ve also done Chinatown. Describe the evolution of the magazine’s relationship with Asian food and how it’s reflected in the book. A: In the magazine, we want depth. One of the qualifications I look for in a Lucky Peach story is: Is this person inside the story? Can they tell it in a way that would feel authentic to a person who knows it intrinsically? I think that that’s the measure of the better stories we do about Asian cuisine and food culture in Asia. In most of (the recipes), the home cooking shortcuts are the ones they take in Asia. Everyone there has jobs and computers and deadlines. There are some campy twists and turns in the book because they’re fun, but we’re trying to honestly represent how this food is made in a home cooking setting.
"Lucky Peach Presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes" by Peter Meehan and editors of Lucky Peach.
Q: What place does Asian food occupy in American culture today? How far beyond Chinese have we gone? A: We’ve gone so far beyond Chinese that we’re actually beginning to discover Chinese. Black vinegar to me is a signifier that we’re moving beyond mall chicken. That’s really a nod to the books that came before, not a food I would enjoy to eat. That’s a nostalgic joke. But the Sichuan peppercorns, cumin lamb, discovering those parts of Chinese cuisine are important to not having it be a one-dimensional joke. Chang and (Los Angeles chef) Roy Choi, the fact that the bigger food culture has accepted chefs cooking Asian or Asian-ish food, you don’t see miso in italics anymore because it’s a scary foreign word. I think those changes are important and encouraging. From The Associated Press
Asian Restaurant Listings
Q: Who’s reading and why? A: We have a pretty huge audience of cooks and chefs. We finally did some audience research.
Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves: 4
and totally change your cucumber salad game. Which is a sad, small statement, but if you cook at home, it’s an exciting trick.
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Q: How has Lucky Peach evolved since then? A: We curse less. I prided myself on publishing unpublishable recipes that were either difficult and authentic or represented how the greatest chefs in the world cooked. And then over time, I think out of personal interest and because we felt like we’d proved our point, we’ve moved into a more approachable and usable set of recipes because we see the value in those.
SICHUAN PORK RAGU
GABRIELE STABILE/LUCKY PEACH/CLARKSON POTTER VIA AP
Scoop the onions onto a plate and wipe out the skillet with a towel. Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon oil in the pan over medium-high, then add the ground pork and cook, breaking the meat into small pieces with a spoon, until just cooked through, about 8 minutes. Push the meat to one side of the pan and add the garlic to the pork drippings. Sweat until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes, then remove from the heat. Stir in the gochujang, peppercorns, chili flakes, soy sauce, sugar, water and reserved onions. Season with salt. At this point, the sauce may be refrigerated or frozen. Reheat before proceeding. Bring the sauce to a simmer over medium heat and stir in the bok choy. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the stems are just tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Serve over noodles or rice, sprinkled with scallions.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 470 calories; 280 calories from fat (60 percent of total calories); 31 g fat (9 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 105 mg cholesterol; 620 mg sodium; 17 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 9 g sugar; 32g protein. Recipe adapted from “Lucky Peach Presents 101 Easy Asian Recipes” by Peter Meehan (Clarkson Potter, 2015)
The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
THAI
INDIAN
KOREAN
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
VIETNAMESE
SRI LANKAN
ASIAN FUSION
MALAYSIAN
Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
KOREATOWN
SenYa
Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
D12
@EpochTaste
October 23–29, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Compiled by Channaly Philipp Epoch Times Staff
體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 )
Openings around town
品味朝鮮王朝的 美味佳餚(三樓)
COURTESY OF OCEAN PRIME
Ocean Prime
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
Ocean Prime is opening its first New York location in Midtown in a 7,400-square-foot space. It’s the 11th Ocean Prime from restaurateur Cameron Mitchell. True to its name, seafood and steaks are the focus. Signature items include a raw bar, hand-rolled sushi, entrees from Yellowfin Tuna to Dutch Harbor King Crab Legs, prime cuts of steak, Lobster Mashed Potatoes, and Ten Layer Carrot Cake. The wine list offers 50 wines by the glass. Open for dinner Monday–Sunday and lunch Monday–Friday.
123 W. 52nd St. (between Sixth & Seventh avenues) 212-956-1404 ocean-prime.com/locations/new-york-city
COURTESY OF TIKKA INDIAN GRILL
Tikka Indian Grill Mallika Khan, who hails from Bangladesh by way of cooking in Calcutta and London, is helming the kitchen at the new Tikka Indian Grill in Williamsburg. The menu includes Chennai Lamb (coconut, curry leaves, sambhar powder), Paanch Poran Jhinga (tossed shrimp with five-spice mix), and Jhinga Balchao (shrimp, coconut, garden herbs); as well as vegetarian and vegan dishes such as Pumpkin Kala Chana (red pumpkin, black peas, mustard seeds). Open daily for lunch and dinner.
85 Grand St. (between Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-768-2262 tikkaindiangrill.com tikkawilliamsburg.com
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
COURTESY OF BRADLEY IMAGING
VBurger It’s all burgers, shakes, and fries—but vegan. The first location of VBurger is set to open Oct. 29 at Union Square. Restaurateurs Robert Cox and Reese Martin are dedicated vegans and animal advocates. Ten percent of all profits will go to Mercy for Animals. Selections include the Einstein Burger, made with cauliflower and potato; the Portobello Steak Sandwich; the Spicy Black Bean Burger; and the Fried Unchik’n Sandwich, dipped in chickpea batter and served fried.
COURTESY OF MACARON PARLOUR
815 Broadway (between E. 11th & 12th streets) 212-533-8777 www.vburger.com
Macaron Parlour Macaron Parlour recently opened its first Brooklyn location with an outpost in Park Slope. The new locations will means not only macarons, but also Brooklyn-exclusive collaborations with Liddabit Sweets, The Good Batch, and Whimsey & Spice.
808B Union St. Park Slope, Brooklyn macaronparlour.com
Russian Groceries.
COURTESY OF CHAZZ PALMINTERI RISTORANTE ITALIANO
Minus the trip to Brighton Beach. There is plenty of Russian food on Brighton Beach. But for most Manhattanites, getting there means a three hour commute. Save time and money by ordering from Moscow on the Hudson. Manhattan’s only delivery service for a full selection of Russian groceries and gourmet food.
www.MoscowOnHudson.com
15% Off Your 1st Online Order with Code: EPOCH
801 W 181 St., NY 10033 718-369-0691
ORDER ONLINE NOW FOR FREE DELIVERY IN MANHATTAN On Your Order of $100 or More
Chazz Palminteri Ristorante Italiano Actor Chazz Palminteri and restaurateurs Jeff, Jack, and Russ Sinanaj have partnered to open the new 130-seat Midtown restaurant Chazz Palminteri Ristorante Italiano. The menu is inspired by Palminteri’s travels in Naples, Sicily, and Rome, with signature dishes including Filetto di Pomodoro (linguini with tomatoes, onions, and fresh basil) and Cotoletta di Vitello al Marsala (veal scaloppini in mushrooms and a marsala wine sauce). The wine list features almost 250 wines.
890 Second Ave. (between 47th & 48th streets) 212-355-5540 chazzpalminterinyc.com