BRENT HOFACKER/SHUTTERSTOCK
D1 November 11–17, 2016
Chef Q&A
What Do You Really Think of Turkey? on D7
www.EpochTaste.com
GIVING THANKS
Through the Ages From ancient Mesopotamia to modern-day Thanksgiving, food and gratitude have gone hand in hand
A Thanksgiving feast. It wasn’t until 1863 that Thanksgiving, thanks to President Abraham Lincoln, became a national holiday.
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
A
t the very core of the Thanksgiving holiday lies the idea of expressing gratitude for the plentiful harvest. Since the beginning of civilization, people have praised the heavens for bestowing a bounty of fruit, vegetables, and grains—whether by poetic verse, festive celebration, or ceremonial ritual.
From Old World to New World The Sumerians in ancient Mesopotamia, for example, wrote a hymn to the goddess of beer, Ninkasi, which doubled as a recipe. A clay tablet was discovered with the lyrics written in Sumerian script, describing the process for making beer from hulled grains and honey. “Occasions for giving thanks over food go back through all of human history,” authors Myra Kornfeld and Stephen Massimilla wrote in an email interview. Their new book, “Cooking With the Muse: A Sumptuous Gathering of Seasonal Recipes, Culinary Poetry, and Literary Fare” (Tupelo Press), looks to works of literature for cooking inspiration.
See Thanksgiving on D4
Bottoms up! Even the Sumerians gave thanks for their beer.
D2
@EpochTaste
November 11–17, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com LIZ CLAYMAN
THANKSGIVING BAGATELLE Recipe from Patsy’s Italian Restaurant. Our only location 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com
ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH ONIONS Makes 4 servings
softened, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate.
No one made Brussels sprouts like my Aunt Anna. She was roasting them long before you saw it done on television cooking shows. This was the first side dish to disappear from the table at a big dinner— it seemed that she could never make enough to satisfy our craving. We still make them today, in her honor, and we still can go through a big bowl in no time flat.
3. Heat the remaining 1/4 cup oil in the skillet over medium. Add the Brussels sprouts and stir. Transfer to the oven and roast, stirring every 5 minutes or so, until the sprouts are tender and nicely browned, about 18 to 22 minutes. During the last few minutes, stir in the onions. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving dish and serve hot..
• 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil • 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and diced • 1 1/4 pounds (or two 10-ounce containers) Brussels sprouts, trimmed, rinsed under cold water but not dried • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
This recipe can be found on page 133 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.”
1. Heat oven to 450 F. 2. In a large ovenproof skillet over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until
A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.
✁
The celebrity hotspot French restaurant Bagatelle will be serving up a French-inspired a la carte menu for Thanksgiving. The main course will be turkey breast stuffed with chestnuts and black truffle, and patrons can choose side dishes like sweet potato gratin or roasted Brussels sprouts and butternut squash with creamed ricotta. Dessert will be baked apple in puff pastry, served with apple vanilla jam and cinnamon whipped cream.
On Thanksgiving Day, enjoy a great view of the Macy’s Thanksgiving Parade while noshing on brunch at chef Marc Murphy’s Landmarc restaurant. Served buffet-style, the meal will include options like turkey leg hash, cranberry stuffing, gravy, and a carving station with roasted turkey; Landmarc’s signature French toast; orecchiette alla norcina (pasta with sausage and mushrooms); and more. Desserts will include pumpkin pie bites and pecan pie with chocoloate crust. Cocktails, wine, and beer will also be available. Children under 12 can decorate a gingerbread house to take home. $225 per person ($150 for children). Thursday, Nov. 24 8:30 a.m.–noon Landmarc at Time Warner Center 10 Columbus Circle (between 58th & 60th streets) Third Floor BenchmarcEvents.Yapsody.com
ROSA MEXICANO For a Mexican take on Thanksgiving classics, head to Rosa Mexicano for a three-course fiesta consisting of an appetizer, an entree with four sides, and a dessert. Entree options include ancho chiliroasted turkey served with a choice of mole de xico (Veracruz-style sweet and spicy sauce) or traditional gravy. Side dishes include sweet plantain-huitlacoche (a Mexican “truffle”) stuffing, chorizo potatoes, and roast turkey enchiladas topped with mestiza crema and orange-spiced Brussels sprouts. Dessert will be apple-and-cranberry empanadas topped with vanilla ice cream. A holiday cocktail will also be served: a blood orange and cranberry margarita with housemade cranberry bitters. $40 per person.
Enjoy a Caribbean island twist on Thanksgiving at Miss Lily’s. The feast will feature jerk turkey breast with gravy, steamed callaloo, and mac-and-cheese pie. For appetizers, choose between pumpkin soup or cod fritters with curry mayo. Dessert will be either pumpkin pie with allspice whipped cream or sweet potato pudding with rum raisin ice cream. Seating begins at 2 p.m. $48 per person.
REDFARM Chef Joe Ng will be preparing his signature Peking turkey (made Peking duck-style) for Thanksgiving, available for take out and dine in. Like the original dish, diners wrap pieces of the bird in housemade pancakes, adding different condiments and sauces. $98 for a whole turkey, including accoutrements and sweet potato tempura. Last day to order is Monday, Nov. 21.
Starter
Creme of Turkey Soup
Main Course
Thursday, Nov. 24 3 p.m.–9 p.m. RedFarm 529 Hudson St. (between West 10th & Charles streets) 2170 Broadway (between 76th & 77th streets) RedFarmNYC.com
Traditional Turkey with all the fixings stuffing, mashed potato, gravy, cranberry, sweet potato, Brussels sprouts
Dessert
Choice of Flan, Rice Pudding, or Pumpkin Pie Coffee or Tea
Meson Sevilla Restaurant
IL BUCO ALIMENTARI E VINERIA Il Buco’s newly appointed executive chef Garrison Price will prepare a five-course Thanksgiving dinner. Choose from Italian-inflected dishes like Orzotto con Zucca (fairytale pumpkin with black truffle and Parmigiano Reggiano); rotisserieroasted heritage pork with pomegranate and watercress; buckwheat stuffing with dried figs, leeks, and hazelnuts; and winter squash pie with mascarpone, star anise, and pumpkin seeds. $85 per person ($45 for children). Thursday, Nov. 24 Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria 53 Great Jones St. (between Bowery & Lafayette Street) IlBucoVineria.com
MISS LILY’S
Meson Sevilla Style
$35 per person - Reserve your table today! 212-262-5890
Thursday, Nov. 24 Bagatelle 1 Little West 12th St. (between Ninth Avenue & Hudson Street) BagatelleNYC.com
LANDMARC
Thursday, Nov. 24 Rosa Mexicano All locations RosaMexicano.com
Thanksgiving
Whole Truffle Roasted Chicken.
Our entire menu will also be available on Thanksgiving Day.
344 West 46th St. (btw 8th & 9th ave.) mesonsevilla.com 212-262-5890
Thursday, Nov. 24 Miss Lily’s 132 W. Houston St. (at Sullivan Street) 109 Avenue A (at East Seventh Street) MissLilys.com
INDIAN ACCENT This modern Indian restaurant from New Delhi will add extra spice to your Thanksgiving, with prix fixe menu options like paneer-stuffed roast turkey or tandoori turkey, cumin-maple potatoes, khichdi (a lentils and rice dish) with kale and housemade butter; and caramelized pecans with rice kheer (Indian pudding). $95 per person. Thursday, Nov. 24 2 p.m.–8 p.m. Indian Accent 123 W. 56th St. (between Sixth & Seventh avenues) IndianAccent.com
GOBBLER SANDWICH AT BLUE RIBBON CHICKEN The November special sandwich at Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken combines some familiar flavors of Thanksgiving: fried chicken with a layer of stuffing, mashed potatoes, housemade gravy, and cranberry sauce ($8.95).
Through Wednesday, Nov. 30 Blue Ribbon Fried Chicken 28 E. First St. (at Second Avenue) BlueRibbonFriedChicken.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
D3
@EpochTaste
November 11–17, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town KEN GOODMAN PHOTOGRAPHY
Italienne Chef Jared Sippel and general manager James King, veterans of Frasca Food and Wine in Boulder, Colo., bring the cuisines of northern Italy and Provence together with Italienne (the name means “Italian” in French). The restaurant has a front taverna offering à la carte dishes and small plates, in addition to a dining room offering a four-course tasting menu. Sippel serves dishes such as Four Story Hill Farm Poularde, with green cabbage, cipollini, and fonduta alla Valle d’Aosta; and Garganelli pasta with sweetbread, speck, and Roman broccoli. Pastry chef Rebecca Isbell (formerly of Betony) offers classic French and Italian desserts such as tarte tatin and île flottante. Behind the beverage program are beverage director Travis Oler and wine director Erica O’Neal, who was named Wine & Spirits Magazine’s “Best New Sommelier 2016.” Open for dinner, Monday through Saturday, from 5 p.m.
Four Story Farm Poularde With Cauliflower, Brussels Sprouts, and Bacon.
19 W. 24th St. (between Broadway & Sixth Ave) Flatiron 212-600-5139 ItalienneNYC.com
Benjamin Prime
Leuca
The Benjamin Restaurant Group has opened its fourth restaurant in 10 years, Benjamin Prime. The 10,000-square-foot restaurant seats more than 200 and has five private dining rooms. The focus remains on the grill and seafood, and the menu offers new additions such as grilled oysters, grilled scallops on the shell, lobster gratin, and a new tartare section. The restaurant also debuts new lunch items, such as a lobster roll, an Atlantic salmon burger, and a chicken BLT. A wine loft holds 2,000 bottles, from more than 500 vineyards. Wines by the glass range from $14 to $30, while bottles range from $45 to Romanée-Conti vintage 2013 by the Domaine de la Romanée at $14,900. Open for lunch, Monday through Friday, and dinner, Monday through Saturday. Lunch service to start Nov. 15.
Andrew Carmellini’s latest restaurant, Leuca, offers southern Italian cuisine with coastal influences. Named after a town in Puglia, the restaurant is located in Williamsburg, at The William Vale Hotel. The executive chef is Anthony Ricco (formerly of Spice Market). Dishes include housemade pastas, woodfired pizzas, and dishes like Lemon Chicken for Two with Blistered Peppers. Pastry chef Jason Casey serves desserts like Amedei Chocolate Budino with hazelnut gelato and sea salt, and House Cheesecake with maraschino and Amarena cherry sorbetto. The wine list focuses on southern Italian regions such as Sicily, Campania, and Calabria. Open for drinks and dinner. Breakfast, lunch, and weekend brunch service to follow.
23 E. 40th St. (near Madison Avenue) Midtown East 212-338-0818 BenjaminSteakhouse.com/prime
At The William Vale Hotel 111 N. 12th St. (between Wythe Avenue & Berry Street) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-581-5900 Leuca.com
Tikka Roll House
Raw New York
Fast-casual Indian eatery Tikka Roll House has just opened in Astoria, Queens, offering Indian cooking from diverse regions of India. Signature dishes include a number of kati rolls—kebabs wrapped in paratha bread, traditionally eaten as street food—as well as dishes like the vegan Rajma bowl, with spiced kidney beans; the Jhinga Bhuna Mirchwala bowl, with spiced shrimp and green chilies; and the goat biryani. Open daily from noon for lunch and dinner.
Chef Vincent Chirico has opened Raw New York, a 50-seat restaurant that provides a tailored dining experience in a low-key setting. The menu consists of seasonal dishes, with an emphasis on protein, low in gluten and dairy and in raw form—for example, lamb tartare with anchovy, hazelnut, and preserved lemon, and Fuji apple carpaccio with fennel and coriander. The beverage list consists of beers, sakes, and wines—sustainable, organic, or biodynamic—as well as nonalcoholic fruit and vegetable cocktails. Open daily for dinner.
34-14 30th Ave. (between 34th & 35th streets) Astoria, Queens 718-255-1085 TikkaRollHouse.com
Little Frog Bistro & Bar The 75-seat bistro Little Frog is the brainchild of restaurateur François Latapie, a former partner at La Goulue, Orsay, and Lyon Bouchon Moderne. Little Frog’s executive chef is Xavier Monge, who worked at Minetta Tavern for nearly a decade, as well as at Balthazar and Payard Patisserie & Bistro. Menu highlights include Duck Liver Foie Gras Parfait; Steak au Poivre, with black peppercorn and brandy sauce; the Frogger Burger, with Cabot cheddar, charred red onion, maple bacon, choron sauce, and housemade pickled peppers; and Coq au Vin Classique, a dark meat chicken stew in red wine sauce, bacon, and carrots. For dessert, there’s the Frogger Sundae, topped with brownies, cherries, roasted almonds, butterscotch, chocolate sauce, and whipped cream. Open daily for dinner from 5 p.m. Brunch service, Friday through Sunday, to follow.
322 E. 86th St. (between First & Second avenues) Upper East Side 347-537-5786 LittleFrogNYC.com
The Cannibal Liquor House The team behind The Cannibal Beer & Butcher has opened the adjacent Cannibal Liquor House. You’ll find cocktails, wines, craft beers, vermouth on tap, blended drinks, and boozy milkshakes made with Morgenstern’s ice cream. “You’ve got to have a little fun with life. I like the juxtaposition of being able to get a classic Negroni right next to an over-the-top Brandy Alexander,” said beverage director Bill Brooks in a press release. Chef Francis Derby’s takes on American bar food include the Yorkshire Pudding & Braised Veal Cheeks, the Mama’s Burger (a dry-aged burger on Texas toast), and the Bird-ger (a duck and liver burger topped with foie gras, quince mostarda, and frisée). Open daily from 2 p.m. Brunch is served on Saturday and Sunday.
111 E. 29th St. (betw. Park & Lexington avenues) Murray Hill 212-685-5585 TheCannibalLiquorHouse.com
After offering ayurvedic cooking classes and meal delivery in the East Village for the past decade, chef Divya Alter has opened Divya’s Kitchen. The vegetarian restaurant offers a menu with dishes that adhere to ayurvedic principles, from the ancient healing system developed in India, but that also makes use of global culinary influences. Examples of menu items include a vegan, yeast-free pizza bread made with freshly milled spelt flour and vegetables seasoned with Italian herbs; lasagna with broccoli, carrots, and spinach, layered with a béchamel made with almond milk instead of dairy milk; and carob-coconut cake. Open for dinner Tuesday through Saturday.
25 First Ave. (between First & Second streets) East Village 212-477-4834 DivyasKitchen.com
WE’RE MORE THAN MEATS THE PLATE MIDTOWN 551 Fifth Avenue 212.972.3315
WORLD TRADE CENTER 136 Washington Street 212.608.0171
HACKENSACK One Riverside Square 201.487.1303
GREAT NECK 777 Northern Boulevard 516.498.2950
WHITE PLAINS 9 Maple Avenue 914.683.6101
MORTONS.COM
306 W. 13th St. (near Eighth Avenue) West Village 646-896-7404 RawNewYorkCity.com
THANKSGIVING
N’eat
November 24th 2016 2:00 pm – 8:00 pm
Sampling of Dishes Includes
Shared Appetizers
New Nordic cuisine is the focus of N’eat, a new eatery headed by chef Gabriel Hedlund with restaurateur Mathias Kaer. Pronounced “neat,” the restaurant’s name is a combination of the words “neat” and “eatery,” and aims to offer simple fare, with the use of local ingredients. Dishes include Pine & Thyme Cured Duck; Chicken Skin with juniper-smoked salmon and cream cheese; Cured Scallops with mussels, radishes, and buttermilk; and Baked Haddock with sea buckthorn and apple. Most ingredients are sourced locally, with the exception of ingredients such as Oland wheat, an ancient grain from Sweden, and moss and seaweed from Iceland. The beverage program includes a rotating selection of ciders, craft beers, wines, and sakes. Open daily for dinner from 5:30 p.m.
58 Second Ave. (between East Third & East Fourth streets) East Village 917-892-6350 Neat-NYC.com
Divya’s Kitchen
Pita with tzatziki, spicy feta, and hummus spreads Traditional Greek salad with tomato, feta, and cucumber Spinach pies, individually wrapped, with ouzo yogurt Paper-thin zucchini and eggplant chips with tzatsiki Chargrilled octopus over a refreshing chickpea salad
Entrées Turkey moussaka with Brussels sprouts and sweet potato mash Artichokes a la polita in a lemon dill veloute Simply grilled whole bronzino with wilted greens and lemon potatoes Half a rack of lamb with asparagus and lemon potatoes +10
Desserts Pumpkin pie with candied pecans Greek yogurt lavender mousse with pineapple carpaccio and pecans Mastiha custard kataifi ekmek with pistachios and cinnamon Nerai is a non-tipping restaurant. Executive Chef Chris Christou
55 E. 54th St. New York, NY 10022 NeraiNYC.com
212.759.5554 $85 per person all beverages liquor and tax not included $40 menu available for children under twelve
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
D4
@EpochTaste
November 11–17, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
GIVING THANKS Through the Ages
A HEALTHY TAKE ON THAI
Thanksgiving continued from D1
Delicious & unique dishes you can’t find anywhere else, made with authentic spices and preparations. We offer a selection of organic meats and healthful side dishes like brown rice and quinoa.
Chicken Volcano with pineapples, and cashews in a sweet and spicy sauce.
Open for Thanksgiving! 11:30am – 11pm
(btw 89 st. & 90 st.) NY, NY 10128
T. 212.289.8889 www.ThaisNYC.com
Pie-Making When delving into the great American tradition of pie-making for the holidays, Kornfeld and Massimilla bring up Harriet Beecher Stowe.
It was in this similar spirit that America’s modern concept of Thanksgiving was born. Early English settlers in the American colonies occasionally celebrated their harvest season with a day of prayer and giving thanks. But it wasn’t until President Abraham Lincoln declared Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863 that it became a regularly observed festivity. In the spirit of promoting unity against the backdrop of the Civil War, Kornfeld and Massimilla explained, Lincoln issued a proclamation that began with the words: “The year that is drawing toward its close has been filled with the blessings of fruitful fields and healthful skies.” Today, we show our gratitude by preparing a feast full of the beautiful produce available to us. Thanksgiving is all about preparing delicious dishes to pass on as one’s unique family traditions, generation after generation.
COURTESY OF TUPELO PRESS
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Stowe, the 19th-century writer who ignited the abolitionist movement after publishing “Uncle Tom’s Cabin,” penned a novel about rural life in New England, called “Oldtown Folks.” In a scene about a Thanksgiving celebration, she writes about the amazing variety of pies that can be crafted from fruit: “The pie is an English institution, which, planted on American soil, forthwith ran rampant and burst forth into an untold variety of genera and species. ... Pumpkin pies, cranberry pies, huckleberry pies, cherry pies, green-currant pies, peach, pear, and plum pies, custard pies, apple pies, Marlborough-pudding pies—pies with top crusts, and pies without—pies adorned with all sorts of fanciful flutings and architectural strips laid across and around.” In their cookbook, Kornfeld and Massimilla feature an abundance of fall fruit in their recipe for an Apple-Pear-Cranberry Crumble, and creatively use pumpkin pie filling in recipes for Pumpkin Pie Bread and Pumpkin Pie Soufflé.
Squashes: They represent the fall harvest and make for delicious Thanksgiving dishes.
TRIFF/SHUTTERSTOCK
Authentic Japanese FREE
Celebrating the Harvest In ancient Greece, the harvest was personified by Demeter, goddess of grain, who was worshipped for giving fertility to the earth. In the New World, Native American tribes performed dance rituals during the time of harvesting corn. The days-long ceremony would involve the whole pueblo, Kornfeld and Massimilla explained. In the English language tradition, the two authors pointed to poet John Keats, who penned a loving tribute entitled “To Autumn.” Keats’s beginning stanzas especially reference food: Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness, Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun; Conspiring with him how to load and bless With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run; To bend with apples the moss’d cottage-trees, And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core; To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells With a sweet kernel; to set budding more [...]
THAIS NEW YORK • 1718 2nd avenue
GMO
Their recipes focus on seasonal produce, borrowing a page from verse and prose throughout history that have referenced said vegetable or fruit. Kornfeld often gives cooking tips and nutrition facts, while Massimilla relates interesting tidbits from literature and different cultural traditions about the ingredients.
In this time of family gatherings, at times joyful, at times stressful, Kornfeld and Massimilla remind us of these words from novelist Oscar Wilde: “After COURTESY OF STEPHEN MASSIMILLA AND MYRA KORNFELD a good dinner, one can forgive anybody, even one’s own relations.” So bring on the turkey, and the green Cookbook authors beans, and the stuffing, and the pies, and let Stephen Massimilla good cheer prevail. and Myra Kornfeld at the farmers market. Channaly Philipp contributed to this report.
Massimilla and Kornfeld’s cookbook.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu
COURTESY OF TUPELO PRESS
(Sauté meals cooked at the table)
RECIPE
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
2nd Location
GREEN BEANS WITH OYSTER MUSHROOMS Servings: 4 “Nature alone is antique, and the oldest art a mushroom.” Thomas Carlyle
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana
Oyster mushrooms—those bell-capped stem clusters that are cooked a la plancha and served in tapas bars all over Spain—are featured here. Their flat caps make them the ideal mushrooms to lay in a hot pan, pressed down until the caps sizzle and brown. The green beans are steam sautéed with garlic and anchovies that fade into the background but add depth of flavor. The golden mushrooms, stirred in at the end, transport this dish to an opulently gratifyingrealm befitting their silky texture, pearly finish, and fragrance reminiscent of oysters from the sea. You could leave out the anchovies, but they amp up the meaty flavor of the mushrooms without tasting fishy. This is an ideal dish to serve at holiday meals since you can sauté the mushrooms and finish off the fresh-cooked complementary green beans quickly at the last minute.
• • • • •
1/2 pound oyster mushrooms 2 tablespoons ghee or extra-virgin olive oil Salt 3/4 pound green beans, ends trimmed 3 garlic cloves, minced
1. Cut the stems off of the oyster mushrooms, and separate them. (They’re usually clean, so no need to wash them.) Warm 1 tablespoon of the ghee over medium heat in a large skillet. Add the mushrooms, sprinkle with salt, and cook, pressing them flat with a metal spatula until golden, about 4 minutes. Turn the mushrooms and cook until golden on the other side. Remove from the pan and set aside.
3. Uncover and sauté 2 to 3 minutes; if there’s any liquid left, let the water evaporate first.
SO FRESH! WE NOW DELIVER!
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
DIRECTIONS
2. Add the remaining ghee to the same pan with the green beans, garlic, anchovies, and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Add the water, stir to combine, and cover. Cook until the green beans are tender, 5 to 8 minutes.
Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
• 4 anchovy fillets, minced • Freshly ground black pepper • 1/4 cup water
Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com
4. Stir in the mushrooms to heat through and serve immediately. Cook’s Note Opt for the smaller-size (2- to 3-inch) mushrooms for this recipe. Poet’s Note Oyster mushrooms are so named because of their resemblance to oysters in texture, finish, and aroma. Varying in color from white to cream to butter yellow to rust, they grow primarily on wood and tend to fan out over other mushrooms. Though Dickinson called the mushroom itself “the Elf of plants” (and the smaller-sized ones are optimal for this recipe), oyster mushrooms can grow to almost a foot across, creating what look like the quaint roofs of a whole village of elfin dwellings. From “Cooking With the Muse: A Sumptuous Gathering of Seasonal Recipes, Culinary Poetry, and Literary Fare” by Myra Kornfeld and Stephen Massimilla, Tupelo Press, 2016
D5
@EpochTaste
November 11–17, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
THANKSGIVING
Time It Right By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
N
othing highlights the importance of getting organized in the kitchen than when planning a big holiday dinner. In her latest cookbook, Gail Monaghan lays out recipes and menus with this starting point in mind: timing. In “It’s All in the Timing: Plan, Cook, and Serve Great Meals With Confidence,” Monaghan, who has years of experience cooking and teaching, offers tips for preparing as much ahead as possible. Her dishes are organized into menus, much as she might in a cooking class, that actually double as teaching tools in
the art of organization. The menus include plans for more casual occasions, such as an Early Autumn Brunch: Start a day ahead for the Creamy Green Polenta and the cream scones; two hours ahead for the melon, fig, and prosciutto platter; and 45 minutes ahead for the Roast Potato and Feta Frittata. And then there are more complex menus for busier holidays. The Thanksgiving menu consists of roast turkey, five sides, and two desserts. As with all menus, there is a sort of master countdown, which tells you when and in what order you should prepare everything. For those who already feel the stress of holiday cooking coming on, this book is a real boon.
RECIPE ROAST TURKEY WITH PAN GRAVY
remaining vegetable-herb mixture around inside the turkey.
Servings: 12 to 14 (as a main course)
8. Place a rack in the pan on top of the vegetables and place the turkey, breast-side down, on the rack. To prevent rack marks, you can place the slices of bread on the rack under the turkey.
• 5 cloves garlic, minced • 1/4 cup kosher salt • 2 tablespoons whole coriander seeds, crushed • 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper • 5 bay leaves, crumbled, divided • 1 tablespoon granulated or brown sugar • 1 tablespoon ground fennel • 2 teaspoons dried thyme • One 18- to 20-pound fresh heritage or free-range turkey, rinsed in cool water and dried well • 6 large carrots, trimmed, peeled, and coarsely chopped • 6 ribs celery, trimmed, peeled, and coarsely chopped • 2 large onions, trimmed and coarsely chopped • 4 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped • 1/2 bunch fresh thyme, or 1 tablespoon dried thyme • 1/2 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley and/ or parsley stems • 8 to 10 slices white bread (optional) • 2 cups (4 sticks) unsalted butter • 1 cup Madeira or port, divided • 6 cups chicken or turkey stock, or more as needed, divided • 1 recipe Pan Gravy (recipe follows), for serving
DIRECTIONS
9. In a small saucepan set over medium heat, melt the butter with 1/2 cup of the Madeira. When the butter is melted, remove from the heat. 10. Pour 2 cups of the stock and the remaining 1/2 cup of Madeira into the bottom of the roasting pan over the vegetables. 11. Dip a large double thickness of cheesecloth in the melted butter mixture and drape it over the turkey. Reserve the remaining mixture in its pan. Five and a Half Hours Before: 12. Transfer the turkey to the oven and immediately reduce the oven temperature to 400 F. Roast for 1 1/2 hours, basting every 20 to 25 minutes with pan drippings. As the liquid evaporates, add the remaining stock to the drippings to dilute the fat and keep the vegetables from burning. If you run out of stock, continue with water. Four Hours Before: 13. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 F and roast 30 minutes more. Three and a Half Hours Before: 14. Discard the cheesecloth. Turn the turkey breast side up, dip a fresh double thickness of cheesecloth in the melted butter mixture (remelt over medium heat, if necessary), and place it over the breast. If there is no butter left, dip the cheesecloth in the pan drippings. Continue to roast and baste for 1 hour more.
Three Days Before:
Two and a Half Hours Before:
1. Mix the minced garlic, kosher salt, coriander seeds, pepper, 4 bay leaves, brown sugar, fennel, and dried thyme together.
Two Days Before:
15. Begin to test for doneness by inserting an instant-read thermometer into the center of a thigh, making sure not to touch the bone. Continue roasting, basting, adding stock or water, and testing in the same manner until the thermometer registers 160 F. (This could take up to 1 hour more.) When done, transfer the turkey to a large cutting board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.
3. Turn the bag over and brine for 24 hours more.
One and a Half Hours Before:
One Day Before:
16. While the turkey rests, pour the pan juices into a large Pyrex measuring cup or jar. Freeze or refrigerate. After 30 minutes, remove and discard the fat that has risen to the surface. Reserve the defatted juices for the Pan Gravy recipe.
2. Rub the mixture all over the outside of the turkey, inside the cavity, and under the skin where possible. Wrap the bird in a large unscented plastic bag, place in a large bowl, and refrigerate.
4. Remove the bowl from the refrigerator, wipe the turkey with a damp cloth, and dry well. Place the turkey on a plate and return to the refrigerator, uncovered. Allow to air dry in the refrigerator. Ten Hours Before: 5. Remove the turkey from the refrigerator. Six Hours Before: 6. Preheat the oven to 500 F. 7. While the oven preheats, combine the carrots, celery, onions, chopped garlic, the remaining bay leaf, fresh thyme, and parsley in a large bowl. Strew 3/4 of the vegetable-herb mixture over the bottom of a large roasting pan. Rub the
17. Carve the turkey. Arrange the carved turkey on a large platter and, if desired, drizzle with some of the Pan Gravy. Transfer the rest of the gravy to a gravy boat and place on the buffet along with the turkey. Tip! To properly roast a turkey, you will need a roasting pan large enough to hold it, cheesecloth, an instant-read thermometer, and a bulb baster. Tip! Roasting will take approximately 3 1/2 to 4 hours, or about 11 minutes per pound.
1. Cook the butter, onion, and garlic in a large saucepan set over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, or until the onions are light gold. 2. Sprinkle the flour over the vegetables. Add the salt and pepper and stir to combine. Cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Cool, cover the pan, and refrigerate.
T
Two Days Before:
Makes 3 cups • 8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter or rendered chicken, duck, or turkey fat • 1 medium onion, finely chopped • 1 to 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour • 1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or to taste • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste • 2 1/2 cups reserved defatted turkey drippings mixed with chicken or turkey stock, plus more stock as needed* • 2 tablespoons double concentrated tomato paste • 2 tablespoons cognac, port, or Madeira For variations on the gravy, see the full recipe at EpochTaste.com
We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills” approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
Obsessive Attention to Detail
DIRECTIONS
PAN GRAVY
*If the drippings are extremely salty, use less drippings and more stock.
To Serve:
Fifty Minutes Before: 3. Remove the vegetable mixture from the refrigerator and reheat over medium-low heat. Whisk in the hot stock mixture, tomato paste, and cognac, and cook, stirring, for 4 to 5 minutes, or until thickened. The gravy should be the consistency of heavy cream. Add more stock if it’s too thick. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Set aside.
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
Ten Minutes Before: 4. Reheat the gravy over low heat, taking care that it does not come above a simmer. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm if not using right away. Reprinted with permission from “It’s All in the Timing” by Gail Monaghan, Agate Surrey, 2016
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
D6
@EpochTaste
November 11–17, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
A Perfect Fusion of East & West
THANKSGIVING AP PHOTO/RICHARD DREW
Sophisticated Sweet Potatoes Get a Kick From Chipotles Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
Shangri La 208 7th Ave.
(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
Pure Peruvian Cuisine Ceviche, Our signature dish
By Elizabeth Karmel Many years ago, I made this chipotle sweet potato purée for my good friend, pie and cake expert Rose Levy Beranbaum. Since that day, we have each made it again and again as a great fall and winter side dish. Rose likes to add Aleppo pepper, a Turkish crushed chili pepper that has an ancho-like flavor but is slightly sweeter and tart. And, for Thanksgiving, I like to add a crust of mini marshmallows as a nod to everyone’s favorite, candied yams with marshmallows. In this dish, the marshmallows add a nice counterbalance to the smoky heat of the chipotles in adobo sauce and a beautiful crust. And, unlike candied yams, the dish isn’t cloyingly sweet.
This dish can be made the day before and reheated before serving, making it ideal to bring to a Thanksgiving feast or to make in advance if you are hosting the holiday. The recipe has just a few ingredients so it is essential to buy the best quality ingredients that you can find. Make sure to purchase Garnet sweet potatoes, which have a deep orange color and a silkier texture than other varieties. Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pit master at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and the author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.” From The Associated Press
RECIPE CHIPOTLE SWEET POTATO AND MAPLE SYRUP PUREE Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 40 minutes (20 minutes active) Servings: 8 When choosing the potatoes, pick about 5 large or 10 medium-sized potatoes. Make sure the skin is tight, with no wrinkles, and almost shiny. • • • • • • • • •
Happy Hour Mon-Fri 4pm- 7pm Free Peruvian chicken wings after 2nd drink
Live Entertainment 7pm-10pm, every Friday
5 to 10 Garnet sweet potatoes (about 5 pounds) 1 overflowing cup real maple syrup 1 cup sour cream 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 2 to 3 canned chipotles in adobo sauce 3 teaspoons ground cinnamon Olive oil Fine sea salt, to taste Mini marshmallows, for topping
DIRECTIONS Heat oven to 400 F.
718-224-8505 • 39-32 Bell Blvd, Bayside, NY 11361 www.piurarestaurant.com
center of the oven and bake until you can see the sugars oozing out of the fork holes, about 1 hour, or more for larger potatoes. You can also test for doneness by inserting a small, sharp knife into the potatoes—if it slips in easily, they are done. Turn off the heat and let sit in the oven for 30 to 60 minutes to finish baking. They will be silky soft. Meanwhile, combine the maple syrup, sour cream, butter, chipotles in adobo, cinnamon, and salt in a small bowl. Scrape the mixture into a food processor and purée until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Peel the potatoes, and add the warm peeled potatoes to the food processor. Process until silky smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Taste for seasoning, adding more salt, or maple syrup if needed. If the mixture is too stiff, add a bit more butter and/or sour cream. Transfer to an oven-safe casserole dish. Just before serving, sprinkle top with mini marshmallows and set in a 400 F oven for 5 to 7 minutes until browned and puffy. Be sure to watch as the marshmallows can go from brown to black quickly.
Clean any dirt and bad spots off potatoes with a rough brush. Dry well. Coat all over with a little olive oil and prick the tops with a fork about three times.
If making in advance: Store covered in the refrigerator. Remove and place in a preheated 350 F oven for 45 minutes or until hot throughout. Just before serving, sprinkle top with mini marshmallows and bake at 400 F until browned and puffy.
Set the potatoes on a baking sheet lined with foil. Place in the
Recipe by Elizabeth Karmel
Are You a Smart Restaurant Owner?
Here’s Why Squash Needs to Be on Our Thanksgiving Tables
PHIL MANSFIELD/THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA VIA AP
By The Culinary Institute of America
A new restaurant opens every day in New York City,
HOW DO YOU STAND OUT? Do what our fabulous clients did and partake in our smorgasbord of offerings to grow your customer base!
We have increased sales and we’re getting new customers. Mie Okuda, owner and chef, Momokawa
Interested? GET IN TOUCH!
advertisenow@epochtimes.com 212-239-2808
Epoch Times • 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5 • New York, NY 10001
Squash is as American as apple pie, so why isn’t this delicious, healthy, and versatile ingredient as prominent at our Thanksgiving tables? There are so many varieties of winter squash that it’s hard to pick a favorite. And though the chefs at The Culinary Institute of America haven’t come to a consensus about which one is their favorite, this recipe for acorn squash with cranberry-orange compote might just end up being yours. Acorn squash is a cousin to a wide range of hard-skinned squashes like butternut, pumpkin, kabocha, and hubbard. Each has its own unique qualities and uses, but the acorn stands out. It is widely available, and you’re likely to see its familiar acorn shape and orange and green skin in most grocery stores and fall farmers markets. It’s easy to slice, and when cooked, its skin is tender, flavorful, and colorful—so no need to peel. Even better: Acorn squash contains half the calories of sweet potatoes and is rich in fiber and vitamins.
The flesh is sweet and nutty, with a buttery flavor that perfectly complements the tartness of the cranberry-orange compote. It is most commonly baked, or roasted, as in this recipe, and because of its small size and cup-like shape when halved, it can be filled with stuffing before being baked (a great Thanksgiving idea for the vegetarians in your life). In addition, its seeds are perfect for roasting plain or seasoned, and can be enjoyed on their own as a cocktail snack or for a crunchy addition to your Thanksgiving salad. From The Associated Press
RECIPE CRANBERRY-ORANGE COMPOTE Makes 2 cups • • • • • •
5 cups whole cranberries, fresh or frozen 3/4 cup orange juice 1/2 cup sugar, or as needed 2 ounces orange zest, blanched Salt, as needed Ground black pepper, as needed
DIRECTIONS Combine the cranberries, juice, and enough water to barely cover the berries in a medium sauce pan. Add the sugar and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Simmer until the berries are softened and the liquid is thickened. Stir in the orange zest. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot. This article was provided to The Associated Press by The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, N.Y. It can also be found in The Culinary Institute of America’s cookbook “Cooking at Home.”
D7
@EpochTaste
November 11–17, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
What Do You Really Think of Turkey?
Chef
RO
LD
’S C
AB IN
Holy triple-backflip, I Turbo-Love turkey. Real turkey. Roasted turkey. Braised or confit. I enjoy putting it on the menu during the non-holiday season, and although the sandwich is the most commonly accepted context for turkey, it can be a much more versatile ingredient.
E COURT
SY
E COURT
SY
OF
HA
PR
I love turkey, but I think it is very important to brine [it]. When done correctly, turkey can be beautiful. And if for some reason you botch the turkey, just go for the dark meat. The dark meat is the best part!
OF
I love turkey especially when it is treated like “lechon.”
IA AD
Brian Bajon, executive chef, Barcadia, New Orleans, La.
I LIKE IT IF…
ENTAL
TIN CO N
TH
E SY
RC
And not the fancy homemade stuff. I love the cheap, straight from the can, gelatin-style cranberry sauce with my turkey.
Thomas Perone, executive chef, Primal Cut, New York, N.Y.
E COURT
I love turkey! Smoked, fried, baked, stuffed—you cook it and I’ll eat it, but I gotta have some cranberry sauce with it.
I know, it sounds crazy! The basic seasoning for Puerto Rican lechon is fresh garlic, sun-dried oregano, black peppercorns, salt, and extravirgin olive oil, all made into a paste. When you apply this seasoning with the addition of delicious smoked bacon to a turkey, you have created what Juanadinos like to call “pavochon,” or turkey pig.
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
O
OF
BA
TR
ESY
OF
CO N
COURT
UNCONDITIONAL LOVE
IM
AL
CU
T
Justin Pfau, executive chef, Harold’s Cabin, Charleston, S.C.
COURT
ESY
OF
EN
I love turkey. I do recommend researching where your turkey came from. I look for cage-free, organic-fed, and cruelty-free turkeys. Leftover turkey is my favorite, for sure. Jason Hotchkiss, executive chef, Encontro, San Diego, Calif.
GE
LIN
E
Richard Torres, executive chef, The Continental, Miami, Fla.
COURT
ESY
OF
SA
Well, it’s not pork. I’ll take an old fashioned made with Wild Turkey bourbon instead. Andrew Masciangelo, co-owner and executive chef, Savona, Gulph Mills, Pa.
I DON’T CARE MUCH FOR IT
VO N
A
COURT
ESY
OF
AN
I really don’t care for turkey during Thanksgiving at all and never really have. I’d much rather cook and serve something else. In the past, we’ve done whole roasted snapper, rabbit gumbo, roasted pork, and leg of lamb. Alex Harrell, chef-owner, Angeline, New Orleans, La.
The Sou ffle Fell In the article “No Shortcuts at Sagaponack: Where Seafood Rules,” printed on Feb. 19, the hours were incorrectly stated. Sagaponack Bar & Grill is open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Epoch Times regrets the error.
212-594-4963
10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
D8 | NOVEMBER 11–17, 2016
ADVERTISEMENT
THEEPOCHTIMES.COM
2016 KOREAN
FOOD FAIR
Tasting Events at Over 50 Korean Supermarkets in NY, NJ, DC Areas
Nov. 11–Nov. 20
Free Tastings, Demos, & Specials Try a variety of unique Korean products! Wholesale prices, factory direct Samgyetang Korean Mandu Dumplings Korean Pear Kimchi
10 DAYS ONLY
Korean Yuzu Tea Korean Ramen Aloe Drinks Rice Snacks
Korean Food
Korean Stuffed Chicken Soup with Ginseng
Enjoy Together, Taste Everyday
DISCOVER KOREAN
DELICACIES WITH TOP CHEF ANGELO SOSA At The TimesCenter 242 West 41st St., New York, NY 10036 Our sponsors:
November 11th, 2016 11:30 a.m.— 2:30 p.m. Hosted by CHEF’D, a mealkit service that helps you cook like your favorite chefs.
VISIT US AT THESE PARTICIPATING LOCATIONS
More info at KFoodFair.org
1. 29-02 Union St., Flushing, NY 11354
6. 142-06 41st Ave., Flushing, NY 11355
1. 42-02 Northern Blvd., Long Island City, NY 11101
6. 34-20 Junction Blvd., Jackson Heights, NY 11372
2. 141-40 Northern Blvd., Flushing, NY 11354
7. 371 North Central Ave., Hartsdale, NY 10530
2. 21 Manhattan Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11206
7. 535 East 170th St., Bronx NY 10456
3. 156-40 Northern Blvd., Flushing, NY 11354
8. 46-40 Francis Lewis Blvd., Bayside, NY 11361
3. 1580 Gates Ave., Ridgewood, NY 11385
8. 445 East 163rd St., Bronx, NY 10451
4. 400 Hillside Ave., Williston Park, NY 11596
9. 336 North Broadway, Jericho, NY 11753
4. 454 Wyckoff Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11237
9. 238 161st St., Bronx, NY 10451
5. 1102 Myrtle Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11206
10. 1630 Bruckner Blvd., Bronx, NY 10473
5. 495 Great Neck Rd., Great Neck, NY 11021