SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 November 13–19, 2015
An Explosion of
Umami on D8 Bara’s signature Whole Roasted Black Bass with sticky ginger soy glaze.
www.EpochTaste.com
BARA
Where French Flirts With Japanese
A
French–Japanese wine bar–izakaya. It’s a mouthful, but it’s a perfect description for Bara, located on the Lower East Side. There’s creativity and deliciousness aplenty at this under-theradar spot, precisely executed by executive chef and partner Ian Alvarez.
Chef Ian Alvarez mixes Japanese technique with French flavors.
The French and Japanese have long been fascinated by each other’s cultures. On the Japanese side, the affinity for Western culture harkens back to the mid1800s when the first Navy ships sailed into Tokyo Bay. Bara is neither a fine dining establishment nor an old school bistro, but rather somewhere in between— a neo-bistro similar to the types that sprouted up in Paris, which put the focus on flavors and precise technique in a more casual setting that’s far friendlier on the wallet.
See Bara on D2
A Culinary Duet
of worldy flavors
Inspired cuisines from across the globe meet in Greenwich Village
37 Barrow Street, New York, (212) 255 5416 ' DuetNY.com
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November 13–19, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
BARA
The Spicy Lobster Noodles, with garlic cream, fennel, and crushed pistachio.
Where French Flirts With Japanese Bara continued from D1
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
Inspired Fish and More The dishes look clean and simple—a nod to the Japanese aesthetic. Until you take a bite, it’s impossible to tell the amount of work and number of steps involved in each dish's execution. The Mackerel Tataki is a fabulous example ($11). Tataki is a dish of finely chopped fish, seasoned with herbs. Alvarez uses French pistou, yogurt, and juice from preserved lemons, mixing Japanese technique with French flavors. The “tartare” is then topped with deepfried crispy rice, shaved horseradish, trout roe, and a ponzu dressing. The silky “chawanmushi,” a savory, steamed egg custard served here with crab salad, is classically Japanese, save for the addition of celery hearts ($8). There’s also a spectacular whole black bass, served upright and cleverly propped up by a lemon wedged beneath the bones. It looks as though it’s swimming in a sea of sliced togarashi cucumber ($28).
It’s the kind of sake you can keep tasting. Every time you taste something new. Kyle Storm, beverage director, Bara
Deliciously Sponsored
Alvarez, who is classically trained in the French tradition, was sous-chef at Momofuku Noodle Bar and chef de cuisine at French Louie. He attributes his fascination with Japanese cuisine to the culture’s dedication to the product, “doing something as well as you can and not hiding behind a lot of gimmicks,” he said. “And the Japanese are super open to outside influences. They make it their own—clothing, music—they put it into this amazing filter and come out with this amazing thing on the other side.” Alvarez feels like he’s also part of the exchange, with New York added to his own filtering process.
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
A lively scene at Bara, a French-wine-bar-meets-Japanese-izakaya hybrid.
Whole fish by and far get one treatment at many restaurants—grilling. It’s far more interesting at Bara. Alvarez stumbled onto a Japanese tradition around New Year’s that involves salted, roasted fish. The fish is seasoned 24 hours in advance and then roasted. Alvarez found the salt penetrated and seasoned the fish all the way through, making for incredibly moist flesh and super crispy skin. A ginger-soy-sauce glaze completes it. The presentation has its benefits. With the fish upright on its belly, the skin remains crispy on both sides. There’s no sogginess underneath and it is more accessible for a table of people who are sharing the dish. One of the most popular dishes is the Spicy Lobster Noodles ($24). It’s comfort food with some luxe elements. Garlic cream, fennel, and bits of crushed pistachio cling to strands of fresh, light housemade pasta; the lobster complements it wonderfully. The Fried Chicken ($18) is one of the few fried items on the menu. Alvarez knows his fried chicken, having made it at all the restaurants he’s worked in over the past eight years. Bara serves a half-chicken portion with moist meat and a crispy, crackly crust that is oh-so-good. Thick homemade chili sauce carries a vinegary tang and garlicky goodness with a sweet touch. A nice deep heat comes through next, then a bite of kohlrabi slaw cools it down. A Natural Approach The approach to the beverage list also draws inspiration from both cultures. The one overarching principle for the wines, though, is that they are natural—devoid of chemicals, sometimes organic or biodynamic, giving nature the agency to shape the final product. Prices by the glass range from $11 to $15 for a biodynamic L’Epicourchois Cour Cheverny
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November 13–19, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Bara
58 E. First St. (between First & Second avenues) 917-639-3197 bararestaurantnyc.com Hours Tuesday–Friday 6 p.m.–11 p.m. Saturday 4 p.m.–11 p.m. Sunday 4 p.m.–10 p.m. Closed Mondays
Fried Chicken, moist on the inside, and oh-sogood crispy, crackly on the outside. Mackerel Tataki with French pistou, yogurt, and juice from preserved lemons, topped with deepfried crispy rice, shaved horseradish, trout roe, and ponzu dressing.
Bara offers natural wines as well as sakes and beers.
Sharing dishes is the way to go at Bara.
T T g ha iv n in k s g
RE TO AT A YOU FA R BU F LO AM US ILY
Blanc 2011 from the Loire Valley. The sake picks also lean natural. Though much sake is produced in an industrial setting these days, beverage director and general manager Kyle Storm picks sakes that were made much as they might have been hundreds of years ago. He favors unpasteurized, undilated sakes (like Nama Genshu Honjozo). “It’s a bit stronger, a lot more flavorful, with wild fresh flavors you don’t find in most sakes,” Storm said. The Kikusui Funaguchi ($12 for a 7-ounce can) carries tones of wild stone fruit, sometimes strawberry, and at the same time a starchy rice character. “It’s the kind of sake you can keep tasting. Every time you taste something new,” he said. Storm and Alvarez are big fans of sour beers, so you’ll find a curated selection of brews they really love, such as a bottle of Boon Geuze Mariage Parfait for $36. Cocktails include the Claude du Vall, with Pommeau, mescal, Carpano Antica, yuzu, and celery salt ($12). The Pommeau is a Calvados spirit, in this case a blend of both apple and pear brandy and fresh apple and pear juices— it adds a sweet touch that’s not too boozy. The yuzu adds some zing. You can also get whiffs of France that most forget—the islands such as Guadeloupe in the French Antilles. Rum is normally distilled from molasses but “rhum agricole” is made from freshly squeezed sugar cane juice. “It smells like a sugar cane field—just like the best wine smells like the vineyard and like the earth that the vines were grown in.” He uses this rum to make a version of El Presidente—with dry vermouth and curaçao— but with cassis rather than grenadine, for a taste of Metropolitan France for good measure ($13).
Silky chawanmushi, a savory, steamed egg custard, served with crab salad. Executive chef and partner Ian Alvarez.
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November 13–19, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF RAAKA CHOCOLATE
COURTESY OF RAAKA CHOCOLATE
stuff to eat and drink around town
COURTESY OF RAAKA CHOCOLATE
EARL GREY TEA PARTY AT RAAKA Artisanal chocolate makers Raaka Chocolate have collaborated with Brooklyn bakery One Girl Cookies to create Earl Grey-flavored goodies. Join them for a tea party to sample Vanilla Pound Cake with Earl Grey Chocolate, Earl Grey Chocolate Bars, and Earl Grey pound cakes and truffles. Tea and other libations will be provided. Sunday, Nov. 15, noon–1:30 p.m. Raaka Chocolate factory 64 Seabring St., Brooklyn Tickets: $15 eventbrite.com (search “Earl Grey Tea Party”)
THANKSGIVING WORKSHOP AT ICE If the idea of cooking a Thanksgiving dinner gives you a panic attack, then consider taking a Thanksgiving workshop at the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE). Chef Loren Banco will teach you how to cook a traditional Thanksgiving dinner from scratch, including dishes like Roast Turkey with Bread Stuffing, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes, Candied Yams, and Pumpkin Bread Pudding. Sunday, Nov. 15, 6 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Institute of Culinary Education Brookfield Place 225 Liberty St. Tuition: $115 recreational.ice.edu
Chocolate-making at the artisanal chocolate company Raaka Chocolate in Brooklyn.
NEW YORK CITY AUTUMN WINE FESTIVAL
WINE AND GOURMET CHOCOLATE PAIRING
New York City Wine Events has put together a festival where people can taste international vintages and an assortment of New York State wines, all in one place. More than 175 wines from countries around the world will be available, including France, Italy, South Africa, and more. Local wineries include Brotherhood Winery, Standing Stone Vineyards, and Lakeland Winery. Hors d’oeuvres will be provided, along with live jazz music bytrumpeter Aaron K. Hamilton.
Stefani Jackenthal, wine journalist and author of the travel guide “Wanderlust Wining!” will teach a session at 92Y on how to pair fine wine with gourmet chocolate. In addition to answering all questions related to pairing, she will also instruct on how to properly taste wine and chocolate on their own. Both delectables will be provided at the event. Wednesday, Nov. 18 7 p.m. 92Y 1395 Lexington Ave. Tickets: $45 92y.org
Saturday, Nov. 21 Afternoon session: 3 p.m.–6 p.m. Evening session: 8 p.m.–11 p.m. Broad Street Ballroom, 41 Broad St. Tickets: $99 newyorkwineevents.com
COURTESY OF ESQUARED HOSPITALITY
HOLIDAY SPIRITS BAZAAR Get a boozy start to the holidays at the Sixth Annual Holiday Spirits Bazaar, where New York City bartenders will compete in a PunchOff to make the best cocktails and punches, while attendees sample their creations. To keep you satiated, there will be artisanal breads from Scratchbread, gourmet cheeses from Stinky Bklyn, and oysters from Eddie Oysters. This year’s bazaar is hosted by event planner and cocktail writer The Dizzy Fizz. A portion of the proceeds will go to the Children’s Aid Society.
Ravioli by chef David Burke.
CHEF DAVID BURKE POP-UP AT CASA NONNA Restaurateur and celebrity chef David Burke will be guest chef at the Midtown Italian restaurant Casa Nonna on Wednesday, Nov. 18, serving up a dinner featuring black and white truffles in each course. For hors d’oeuvres, there’s white pizza with black truffle and a Crab and Zucchini Fritter with a truffle aioli. The five-course meal includes dishes like Yellowtail Crudo with a black truffle vinaigrette and shaved black truffles, veal cheek and tenderloin with white truffle risotto and shaved white truffles, and Butterscotch Panna Cotta with black truffle cocoa jelly and white truffle meringue. Each course is also paired with a cocktail or wine. Wednesday, Nov. 18, 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Casa Nonna 310 W. 38th St. $145 per person Call 212-736-3000 for reservations
Thursday, Nov. 19, 7 p.m.–10 p.m. Bowery Hotel 335 Bowery Tickets: $65 holidayspiritsbazaar.com
CHEFS FOR IMPACT
DEL POSTO’S LA FESTA DEL TARTUFO Chef Mark Lardner pays homage to white truffles in the last event in a series this year celebrating Del Posto’s 10th anniversary. The Festa del Tartufo will feature the treasured white truffles from the Piedmont area of Italy. Every course, from Soft-Poached Egg With Chicories to White Lasagne, will be finished with shavings of white truffles. Wines, curated by wine director Michael Greeson, will include a new release from Angelo Gaja (Gaja Rossj-Bass 2014), as well as a 2007 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello and a 1964 vintage by Giuseppe Mascarello. “Truffle availability was very scarce at the beginning of the season due to inclement weather and lack of rainfall in northern and central Italy,” said Matt Abdoo, chef de cuisine. “But there’s been a significant turnaround over the last week, increasing the quality of the product and lowering its market rate. We’re taking full advantage.” COURTESY OF DEL POSTO
Six chefs will come together for a charity dinner that will benefit Impact Network, a nonprofit that brings technology education to rural Africa. Participating chefs include Eric McCarthy of upscale Indian restaurant Tulsi; Eric Simeon, executive chef at the Executive Dining Room at Citigroup; and Rhonda Crosson, who will be head baker for the Danish bakery Meyer’s Bageri when it opens in New York City next year. Thursday, Nov. 19 6 p.m. Angel Orensanz Foundation 172 Norfolk St. Tickets: $225 chefsforimpact.org
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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Thursday, Nov. 20 7 p.m. Del Posto 85 10th Ave. $995 per person festadeltartufo. splashthat.com
W i Din n at ner Del Posto in Chelsea.
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THANKSGIVING SPECIALS NERAI
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Nerai’s roast turkey with turkey stuffing moussaka.
Upscale Greek restaurant Nerai is offering a multicourse Greek-influenced Thanksgiving menu, including small plates like grilled octopus and spinach pies to enjoy before an entree choice of roast turkey served with turkey stuffing moussaka, mushroom risotto with kefalograviera cheese, king salmon, grilled whole sea bass, or lamb chops. Alongside pumpkin pie with candied pecans, there will be Greek desserts like Kataifi Ekmek, a type of bread pudding with honey and pistachios.
DEL FRISCO’S American restaurant Del Frisco’s will be open on Thanksgiving to serve a classic holiday dinner. Both the Grille and Double Eagle Steak House locations will serve autumnal dishes like Butternut Squash Bisque, Slow-Roasted Turkey, Sweet Potato Casserole, and Pecan Pie. Thursday, Nov. 26 12 p.m.–9 p.m. Del Frisco’s Grille Rock Center 50 Rockefeller Plaza $70 per person delfriscosgrille.com
Thursday, Nov. 26, 2 p.m.–8 p.m. Nerai 55 E. 54th St. $75 per person, $30 for children under 12 nerainyc.com
12 p.m.–9 p.m. Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House 1221 Avenue of the Americas $95 per person delfriscos.com/steakhouse/new-york
COURTESY OF HILL COUNTRY BARBECUE MARKET
BLACK TREE BK If you’re hoping to gather for a Thanksgiving meal with friends before or after the big day, new American restaurant Black Tree Bk is serving a largeformat dinner from Nov. 20 to Dec. 1, featuring locally raised turkey or goose alongside other traditional holiday dishes like Housemade Stuffing, Bacon Roasted Brussels Sprouts, and Pumpkin Pie. On the actual holiday, the Thanksgiving dishes will be served buffet style.
MARKET TABLE Thanksgiving spread with Whole Pit-Smoked Turkey from Hill Country Barbecue Market.
HILL COUNTRY BARBECUE MARKET Thursday, Nov. 26 11:30 a.m.–7 p.m. Hill Country Barbecue Market 345 Adams St., Brooklyn 30 W. 26th St., Manhattan $210 for take-out, serving 5-8; $300 for take-out, serving 9-12; $45 for adults dine-in; $25 for children hillcountryny.com
The barbecue masters at Hill Country are offering both dine-in and takeout Thanksgiving meals. The takeout feast, available to order by Nov. 20, will include Whole PitSmoked Turkey, Texas Toast Stuffing, Skillet Cornbread, Green Bean Casserole, and Caramel Apple Streusel. The dine-in prix fixe menu will include Pit-Smoked Turkey with Pan Gravy, Sweet Potato Bourbon Mash, Beef Brisket, and signature pies for dessert.
Friday, Nov. 20–Tuesday, Dec. 1 Black Tree Bk 261 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn Turkey dinner for group of 8–12, $61 turkey dinner, $67 goose dinner for group of 8–12; $30 Thanksgiving Day buffet blacktreenyc.com
ANDREA KANG
Market Table in the West Village promises a Thanksgiving menu that will please traditionalists and nontraditionalists alike. For the classic dishes, there’s Pumpkin Soup with cranberry relish, Turkey with cornbread dressing, Confit Leg, and giblet gravy, Brussels Sprouts with apples and squash, and Grammy’s Apple Cake with sour cream ice cream. On the new-school side, there’s Maine Lobster Risotto, Sautéed Autumn Flounder with gingered butternut purée, Braised American Lamb Neck with eggplant, and Flourless Chocolate Cake with Turkish coffee gelato. Thursday, Nov. 26 Market Table 54 Carmine St. $90 for adults, $25 for children markettablenyc.com
Sautéed Autumn Flounder from Market Table.
MEDITERRANEAN BRANZINO AND DORADE FESTIVAL Entreprise Greece, which promotes business and investment in the country, is organizing a two-week-long festival to highlight two farmed fish species that enjoy great popularity in the Mediterranean: the “branzino” (Mediterranean sea bass) and “dorade” (as known as silver snapper). At a private media dinner held in Williamsburg on Thursday, Oct. 29, chef Michael Psilakis of MP Taverna served a sevencourse meal featuring both fish, cooked using different techniques: poached, pickled, grilled, fried, battered, braised, and served raw. Both fish proved versatile; whether served lightly poached in a
dill-speckled consommé, or fried in batter and paired with rich sheep milk ricotta and sweet tomatoes, they were light and clean tasting. Aside from MP Taverna, several restaurants across the city will also feature the branzino or the dorade on their menus, including Mayfield, serving branzino crudo and salt-baked dorade; Bara, offering dorade with curried cauliflower and labneh; and LoLo’s Seafood Shack, which is serving wok-seared branzino with red pepper “escabeche” and a crispy dorade with coconut curry orzo. Other restaurants include Kefi, Fishtag, and Kellari Taverna.
Through Sunday, Nov. 22 Various locations
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
HARMONY THE SPIRIT OF SUSHI ZEN TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
COURTESY OF ROOT & BONE
ROOT & BONE American Southern restaurant Root & Bone promises a hearty Thanksgiving menu, with Crispy Fried Turkey Breast, Gooey Corn Spoon Bread with aged cheddar, Grandma Daisy’s Buttermilk Angel Biscuits, Apple Pie with rosemary crumble, and more. If you’d prefer to eat all this in the comfort of your own home, the restaurant is offering the menu to-go, with more dishes available a la carte. Orders must be placed by Sunday, Nov. 22. Thursday, Nov. 26 Root & Bone 200 E. Third St. rootnbone.com
Grandma Daisy’s Buttermilk Angel Biscuits from Root & Bone.
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November 13–19, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com The brunch menu is seasonally diverse featuring both eclectic and classic selections. Organic fruits and vegetables, grass-fed meats and wild caught seafood are all locally sourced and artfully presented. County’s brunch is an exciting new option for the Flatiron District.
A Universe
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Want to go Bottomless? Well here’s the deal: $25/pp added to your meal gets you all the Bloody Mary’s, Mimosas, and Bellinis you want for 1.5 hours. Brunch is served Saturday & Sunday from 11AM to 3PM. Reservations recommended.
34 East 20th Street | 212.677.7771 For more information and a full brunch menu visit CountyNYC.com
Hudson Valley Foie Gras, with mountain huckleberries, preserved autumn berries, and pickled grapes. Foie gras is liquefied, then dropped into liquid nitrogen to produce orbs.
Juni’s Shaun Hergatt on inspiration and creating the experiences of a lifetime—every day By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
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When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
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Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
ook at any of Shaun Hergatt’s dishes and it’s as if you’re gazing into a universe, suspended in time. In one dish, orbs of frozen foie gras share a wintry landscape side by side with licoricespiced mountain huckleberries, preserved autumn berries, and pickled grapes. Powdered hazelnut on top simulates fallen snow; on the side sits a celery root purĂŠe. This serene world is too beautiful to eat—but this is food, after all, and what would be the point of not trying it? In Hergatt’s book, taste comes first. Taste how, over a matter of seconds, the foie gras melts in your mouth, and at the same time, the acidity from other components cleanses your palate so the foie gras won’t feel heavy, Hergatt pointed out. The huckleberries lend sweetness and spiciness, the autumn berries and pickled grapes acidity. It’s gorgeous, but presentation comes second to the experience of tasting—with every component having a well-thought-out role to play. “You’ve got seven layers of texture, you’ve got another seven layers of flavor. You have to sit and think about eating it, it’s not just ‘cut the steak and eat,’â€? Hergatt said. The flavor profile is classic—pickled grapes, foie gras with berries, hazelnuts—and yet completely dynamic and reimagined. What’s remarkable is that Hergatt is constantly engaged in the process of developing dishes, working with the bounty of any given particular microseason. An ordinary restaurant might change its menu four times a year, if it considers itself bound by the seasons. By comparison, since Juni opened two and a half years ago, Hergatt has created somewhere between 250 and 300 dishes. “We had a dish with the milkweed blossom or milkweed fruit. We only had that dish on for a month because the fruit was only blossom-
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
Razor Clams served with jalapeĂąo powder.
Juni
ing upstate for a month. We developed a dish that looked like an angel wing. It tasted delicious,� Hergatt said. Only a few hundred people tasted it—and then it was gone.
Hours
Inspiration “I can look at a pair of shoes and get inspired,� Hergatt said. You might think he’s kidding but he’s not. Hergatt has been inspired by the flowing silk of a woman’s blouse (for a heart of palm dish); a childhood candy bar (for cherry-glazed foie gras mimicking a glossy cherry); travels through Scandinavia and Asia; growing up in Australia, eating his family’s traditional Finnish food. He keeps all those memories in his repertoire. “What you do is you reproduce them onto something that is a canvas for your own ideas and own flavor profiles and once you understand the coordination of how it all works, it becomes an easy thing to develop. You don’t hit it every single time but it helps you. It keeps you going,� he said. Another thing: he’s found being happy gives him more inspiration. So much for the brooding artist stereotype. “I’m in a really bad mood or I’m upset if there’s something really going wrong, it blocks it.�
12 E. 31st St. 212-995-8599 juninyc.com
Lunch: Tuesday–Friday noon–2 p.m. Dinner: Tuesday–Thursday 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Friday & Saturday 5:30 p.m.–11 p.m.
Developing a Style Pick out the tasting menu at Juni, and among the dozen or more dishes, there’s no replication of ingredients, and often no repeated techniques. “It’s very easy to pick up a book and replicate a certain style and pattern or how things look. Creation of flavor profile is the first key in the development of why I think food is interesting,â€? Hergatt said. “The second part of it is you have to develop your own style, and style with a human being is not necessarily the easiest thing to achieve because people tend to replicate—unintentionally or intentionally. I’m not saying it’s a negative. I’m saying it’s their ability’ whereas we have original creations here. “If you’re going to come and eat my food there’s not another chef on the planet who’s going to be able to define it in the way that I do it.â€? Not everyone gets it, Hergatt said. “The majority of people are just coming for a dining experience so they’d be happy with a piece of fish, a nice purĂŠe, a touch of sauce, and a garnish because that’s what they’re programmed to, and if it’s delicious, it’s delicious.â€? “Not everyone wears McQueen, not everyone goes to Dolce & Gabbana and wears a dress at $7,000. It’s not about the price point but it’s about the art and understanding how much eort and soul and human nature has been put into that gown,â€? he said. “I really don’t get upset anymore about that. Before it used to frustrate me—you have no appreciation that you have 60 people working for you. I’ve accepted it now there are a lot of genres in my life like art. It doesn’t mean I’m a bad person because I can’t appreciate what the artist is about.â€? The regulars are another story; they’re
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November 13–19, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Natural
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
“Best Organic Soy Sauce� -Food and Wine Magazine
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
Chef Shaun Hergatt has developed more than 250 dishes since Juni opened in 2012. Kuro Squab, Mutsu Apples. The squab’s black coloring comes from “kuroâ€? powder, a Japanese charcoal. It is served with kuro tuiles, “mutsuâ€? apple purĂŠe, and Szechuan pepper leaves.
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores.
www.wanjashan.com
thai
the modern hooked. The perpetual changing nature of the menu and the relentless quest for perfection behind the menu keeps them coming. Hergatt’s aspiration is nothing less than creating lifetime experiences for diners who come. He recalled one such moment he experienced himself at Taillevent in Paris, during one of the greatest meals he’s had, and yet not entirely because of the food. He was ill and initially didn’t want to eat, but was looked after by a maitre d’ he remembers to this day: “He was such a great amazing maitre d’. He just had a sense of understanding of how to calm people. He made me feel amazing. And when the food came out, we had a four-hour lunch.� At Juni, he aspires to create something exceptional that will make a mark on his diners. “Those memories that we want you to talk about not only to your friends but 10 years down the tracks, ‘I had meals at this restaurant, and it was one of those things I can’t let go and is going to be with me till the day that I die.’ That’s what we’re trying to achieve.�
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Beer or Wine At Joy Burger Bar, we are all about customizing your burger experience. With 3 burger sizes to choose from and 9 sauces to complement your toppings, you will always get what you want. EnJOY! Craft Beer # Wine # Fresh Salads # Hand Cut Fries
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1567 Lexington Ave, New York (212) 289-6222
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The daily Chef’s Omakase Small Bites Platter, with ibérico ham, yellowtail sashimi, potato salad, and other goodies.
TESHIGOTOYA
An Explosion of Umami In America, bar food can get boring pretty quickly; the menus are a familiar list of burgers and fried foods. The Japanese, though, have a rich, longstanding culture of pairing alcohol with a delicious variety of small plates at “izakayas,” the Japanese equivalent of pubs. The latest trend in Tokyo is standing izakayas styled after Spanish tapas bars, attracting crowds with food that blends Japanese flavors with European cooking techniques and presentation. In the East Village, Teshigotoya brings the latest on the Tokyo izakaya scene to New York. The combination results in dishes that deliver an intense explosion of umami. At Teshigotoya, which opened in February this year, a large menu of over 100 dishes, which includes a changing list of seasonal specials, delightfully satiates hunger pangs. The Boiled Egg Croquette is a marvel to behold and taste ($8.50). When the baseballsized croquette arrives at your table on a sizzling plate, the server pours in a cream sauce mixed with dashi broth that bubbles and rises slowly to form a pastel-yellow pond. Cut into the croquette, and you’ll see that a runny soft-boiled egg has been encased in mashed potatoes. Forget about bacon or french fries: one mouthful of the egg and potato, dipped into the cream sauce, will convince you that croquettes are the fried comfort food we should be eating everywhere in America. The layer of crisp on top of the potato is just thick enough to give some crunch, while the potato mash is peppered with some dill to undercut the heaviness—and it’s the perfect vehicle for sopping up that umami bomb of a sauce. Another burst of flavors comes in the form of the Grilled Scallop and Oyster With Sea Urchin Sauce ($16). Briny, toothsome seafood mingles with mushrooms, carrots, onions, and scallions, like a Japanese stir-fry. The creamy sea urchin sauce is what makes this dish so special: mildly sweet, tart, and buttery at the same time, it gives just the right flair to complement the sea saltiness. Because this is an izakaya, beverage pairings are a necessity. Teshigotoya has an elaborate menu of small-batch “shochu” (distilled from rice, barley, and sweet potatoes), sake, and Japanese whiskey that rotate by season. Some of the whiskeys are produced in such limited quantities that one bottle can cost thousands of dollars. You can order them by the glass, or alternatively, Teshigotoya makes highball cocktails that are popular in Japan, such as the Iwai Highball with Japanese whiskey and club soda ($12); Hoppie, a drink with root beer and shochu ($7); and Namashibori, with shochu, fresh fruits, and club soda ($12). Restaurant director Yuta Kobayashi, who is also a sake sommelier, recommends full-bodied sake, like the Goriki ($75 per bottle), a type of unpasteurized junmai sake, to go with the seafood dish, and a highball cocktail to pair with the croquette. For those who are indecisive and want to try a variety of dishes, go for the daily Chef’s Omakase Small Bites Platter ($28 or $35, if including seafood). Executive chef Kenta Rosenfield selects five appetizer-sized dishes for you to sample. On a recent visit, the platter included pickled daikon; Iberico chorizo and manchego cheese, drizzled with olive oil; a potato and tomato jelly salad; a bluefin tuna
Grilled Scallop and Oyster With Sea Urchin Sauce.
Teshigotoya
432 E. 13th St. 212-777-3174 teshigotoyanyc.wix.com/ teshigotoya Hours Tuesday–Saturday 6 p.m.–11 p.m. Sunday 6 p.m.–10:30 p.m.
The cream sauce bubbles and rises to form a pond of umamideliciousness— perfect for dipping.
The baseball-sized Boiled Egg Croquette is served on a sizzling hot plate with a creamy dashi sauce. Cut into it, and you’ll find an oozy softboiled egg wrapped in mashed potatoes.
salad with avocado and yuzu-pepper sauce; and yellowtail sashimi served Okinawa-style, marinated in a sweet soy sauce. All were delectable, beautifully decorated with microgreens and flower petals. The potato salad was arranged into square layers, sandwiched between slices of tomato jelly, so that the dish looked like a savory cake of sorts—certainly a creative way of presenting potato salad. It is customary to end a meal at an izakaya with rice or noodles, known as “shime”—to better soak up all the alcohol consumed. Teshigotoya has a variety of Italian-inflected dishes such as Sautéed Noodles With Carbonara Sauce ($13). Made with Japanese noodles, the dish arrives in a hot stone pot, which the server mixes with sauce in front of you on the table. “Teshigoto” means “handcrafted.” True to its name, all dishes are made in-house, including dessert. The Panna Cotta with Sweet Soy Sauce ($6.50), for example, uses a sweet-savory glaze that is often a topping for traditional glutinous rice dumplings. It’s no wonder this mixture of EuropeanJapanese cuisine is so well-received in Tokyo; Teshigotoya shows that the results are a fun marriage of flavors.
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November 13–19, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Still Not a Cranberry Sauce Fan? Maybe Bacon Will Convert You
CLASSICS with FLAIR
By J.M. Hirsch Admittedly, I’m a bit of a freak when it comes to cranberry sauce. Nonetheless, I can’t help but think there is something seriously disturbed about people who claim not to like it. Because what is there to dislike? Whether shplopped (that’s the official sound) from a can or homemade with loving care, cranberry sauce is sweet and tangy and just a little spicy and mouth puckeringly luscious in every way. I don’t actually care about the rest of the Thanksgiving meal. Just give me a bowl of cranberry sauce, a spoon, and leave me alone. Many years ago—in a bid to win over the faithless, including my son—I spent a good deal of time perfecting what I then considered to be the Platonic ideal of cranberry sauce. It was chunky and sweet with just the right amount of tart. It had fresh cranberries and dried cherries, chopped pears and candied ginger, golden raisins, and apple cider. And the secret ingredient? Cardamom. It was heaven. And yet it still didn’t win over my son. Or, it would seem—based on the number of cranberry sauce naysayers I encounter around this time each year—plenty of others. So I shall try again. This time, I shall deploy a new weapon. I’m going to enhance my cranberry sauce with the one food most people are powerless to resist. The one food that can improve anything it touches. The one food that adds savory and sweet and rich and bold and chewy and crunchy all at once. This time, I’m calling in the bacon. See if you can resist. From The Associated Press
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
RECIPE BACON AND FRIED ONION CRANBERRY SAUCE Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 12 • 1 pound bacon, cut into 1-inch chunks • 1 large yellow onion, diced • 1/2 cup orange juice • 12-ounce bag fresh or frozen cranberries • 1 large or 2 small apples, peeled, cored and diced • 1/2 cup sugar • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS In a large saucepan over mediumhigh, cook the bacon until lightly crisped, 10 to 12 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the bacon to a plate and set aside, leaving the saucepan and bacon fat over the heat. Carefully add the onion and cook until lightly fried, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a
slotted spoon to transfer the onions to the plate with the bacon. Dispose of the fat in the pan, but don’t scrape the pan. You want any browned bits on the bottom. Return the pan to the heat. When the pan is hot, carefully add the orange juice and bring to a simmer while using a wooden spoon or silicone spatula to scrap up the bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the cranberries, apple and sugar, then bring to a simmer. Cook until the cranberries pop and the juice thickens, about 6 minutes. Return the bacon and onions to the pan, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Cool before serving.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Per serving: 140 calories; 80 calories from fat (57 percent of total calories); 8 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 150 mg sodium; 16 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 4 g protein.
MADISON BISTRO
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
BANGKOK
STREET FARE
Heaven for Food Lovers Yaowarat is one of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods, founded by East Asian traders in Siam over 200 years ago. It is a heaven for food lovers, blending the centuries old Thai and East Asian influences in an eclectic mix of street vendor cuisine. Experience the authentic taste of Bangkok street fare, at Sookk.
Try Our Affordable Daily Lunch Specials. AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Bring Sookk to you! Catering and delivery available.
RECIPE CIDER-GLAZED SWEET POTATOES WITH FRIED SAGE, GARLIC, AND GOAT CHEESE Prep & Cooking Time: 1 1/2 hours (20 minutes active) Serves: 8 • • • • • • •
4 cups apple cider 4 large (about 4 pounds) sweet potatoes Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1/4 cup olive oil 12 fresh sage leaves 3 cloves garlic, minced 4 ounces soft goat cheese, crumbled
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 375 F. Line a baking sheet with foil. Mist the foil with cooking spray. In a medium saucepan over medium-high, bring the cider to a boil. Lower the heat to maintain a strong simmer and cook until reduced to 1/2 cup.
At Thanksgiving, Learn to Love the Savory Side of Sweet Potatoes
Meanwhile, cut the sweet potatoes in half lengthwise, and then cut each half into quarters lengthwise to produce 8 long wedges from each sweet potato.
By Alison Ladman
While the potatoes cook, fry the sage. In a medium skillet over medium-high, heat the oil. Add the sage and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until crisp, turning once or twice. Use a slotted spoon to remove the sage from the oil and place on paper towels to drain. Add the garlic to the oil, cooking for 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Set aside, leaving the garlic in the oil.
What with fall being well under way, we feel it’s time to set aside our bags of marshmallows. They were fine for s’mores in summer, but do we really need to disgrace our sweet potatoes with them? Because it’s not like Thanksgiving suffers any lack of sweet treats. What with all the pies and puddings and crisps—not to mention the ice cream and whipped cream we inevitably plop on top of them—we feel we can say with confidence that the sweeter side of this meal is covered. So let’s do our sweet potatoes a favor and notch down the sugar load, shall we? To help you embrace this more savory side of sweet potatoes, we’ve created this recipe that tops them with fried sage, garlic, and goat cheese. In a nod to balance, we also give them a lightly— emphasis on lightly—sweet touch with an apple cider reduction. It’s no bag of marshmallows, but it certainly is delicious. From The Associated Press
SOOKK
2686 Broadway (Broadway & 103rd St.) New York, NY 10025 (212) 870-0253
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
Once the cider is reduced, add the potato wedges and toss to coat. Arrange the wedges, skin side down, in an even layer on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake for 35 minutes, or until tender. If the glaze darkens too much before the wedges are cooked, drizzle 1/2 cup of water over them and stir lightly.
When the potatoes are cooked, transfer them to a serving platter. Drizzle with the garlic oil and garlic, as well as any pan drippings from the roasted potatoes. Top with the crumbled goat cheese and fried sage. Serve warm or at room temperature.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Per serving: 360 calories; 90 calories from fat (25 percent of total calories); 10 g fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 5 mg cholesterol; 320 mg sodium; 61 g carbohydrate; 7 g fiber; 22 g sugar; 6 g protein.
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RECIPE MINI CANNELES Makes about 40 mini cannelés
SWEET TREATS for Sweet Holiday Memories
PART
1 of 3
By Orysia McCabe | Epoch Times Staff That very unique time of year is upon us once again—yes, holiday season prep time. If you’re looking to kick it up a notch this holiday season I would highly recommend choosing one of the delectable morsels from French pastry chef François Payard’s new cookbook “Payard Cookies.” These are not just your run-of-mill recipes— these are Old World recipes steeped in family and cultural traditions, many learned from Payard’s father and grandfather. Payard, the owner of FP Pâtisserie and
Asian Restaurant Listings UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
THAI
INDIAN
KOREAN
These are Old World recipes steeped in family and cultural traditions.
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
VIETNAMESE
SRI LANKAN
ASIAN FUSION
MALAYSIAN
Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
KOREATOWN
SenYa
Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
François Payard Bakery, was pastry chef at Le Bernardin and Daniel. “Payard Cookies” has just over 100 recipes, and about two-thirds are accompanied by photos—a good ratio. And there are extensive tips not only in the recipe instructions but also in the preamble to each recipe, so they should be read carefully. The introduction gives a lot of information about the utensils for baking desserts—everything from why you should use silicone spatulas, to tips on piping cookie dough and making use of offset metal spatulas. In the section on ingredients, Payard discusses shopping for the best, as well as making your own, like homemade candied citrus peel. Two huge pluses are the shortlist of easyto-find ingredients and the simplicity of the instructions. Most recipes have no more than five or six steps. The book also has a Resources section listing businesses that offer ingredients and equipment that might not be at your local supermarket. Not many cookbooks offer this feature. One of the few places where the book falls short is in not offering alternative methods to using appliances. Many home cooks and bakers do not have food processors or stand mixers, and it would be a good idea to offer alternative methods to mixing ingredients. Another feature this book doesn’t have is prep and baking times for each recipe. You’ll have to read carefully to find out how much time you’ll need before you start. Take the Mini Cannelés recipe—once the batter is ready it needs to sit in the fridge for at least 24 hours before you can start baking. Testing Recipes The first recipe I tested was the Mini Cannelés. This was a huge hit with my friend. He loved the rich custard-like filling and the crunchy exterior. My next-door neighbor and his wife couldn’t get enough. His brother-in-law liked how sweet they were without being over-thetop and really liked the soft centers. The other recipe I tested was the Bâton Maréchaux (“marshals’ batons” in French). These were as light as air and yet crunchy at the same time, due to the almond and sugar topping and the almond slices mixed into the cookie dough. My friend’s first comment was, “They’re not buttery.” He was expectTraditional copper ing a buttery taste, since mold cannelés are in his experience cookies dark, but silicone are buttery. But this did molds create a not stop him from having golden color. another, and once he got over the no-butter issue, he said they were really good. He liked the chocolate coating and the added crunch from the almond and sugar topping. These are two recipes I am happy to say will now become part of my own repertoire for entertaining and for whenever I feel like a treat. Over the coming weeks leading up to Thanksgiving and the holidays, I will be featuring other delectables from the book for you to try. “Payard Cookies” by François Payard (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30)
It’s easy to become obsessed with cannelés. They have a very unique texture, with a thick and crispy crust and a chewy, almost custardy inside, and an unparalleled flavor, thanks in no small part to a healthy dose of rum in the batter. They are traditionally made in copper molds coated with beeswax, which also contributes to their mystique, since they require specialty equipment. But I’ve found that they also work well made in silicone molds, which are less expensive and often more convenient, so feel free to use those here instead. They won’t be quite as crunchy, but will be close enough. The batter needs to rest overnight so that the flour can relax, so plan ahead, while the finished cannelés are best eaten the day they are made. When you look for cannelé molds, buy the mini size (which are about 1 3/4 inches wide). If you make them full size, which are two and half to three times bigger, bake them for 60 to 75 minutes. If your mold is too small to bake all of the batter at once, don’t worry; it can stay refrigerated for up to a week.
• 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted butter • 2 cups (480 grams) whole milk • 1 1/4 cups (250 grams) granulated sugar • 1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour, sifted • 1 large egg • 3 large egg yolks • 3 tablespoons (45 grams) dark rum, such as Myers’s • 2 tablespoons (30 grams) pure vanilla extract
DIRECTIONS In a medium saucepan over low heat, melt the butter. Add the milk, bring the mixture to a simmer, then turn off the heat. Whisk together the sugar and flour in a large bowl. Whisk the egg and egg yolks into the sugar mixture, then whisk in the milk mixture until everything is well combined. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl and let cool to room temperature. Once cool, whisk in the rum and vanilla, cover, and refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 4 days. Preheat the oven to 375 F (190 C). If using copper molds, heat them in the oven for about 10 minutes, or until they are hot. This step is not necessary with silicone molds. Liberally grease the molds with butter, cooking spray, or food-grade beeswax, doing so more generously if using copper molds. Arrange the molds on a baking sheet. Stir the batter and transfer it to a large measuring cup or pitcher, which will make it easier to pour into the molds. Fill the molds three-quarters full, then let the batter rest in the molds for 1 hour at room temperature. This will allow the flour to settle at the bottom so that the cannelés don’t rise too much when baking, giving them their cake-like, spongy texture. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until the cannelés reach a deep golden brown color. Remove the molds from the oven and turn them over onto a wire cooling rack. Let the cannelés cool in the molds upside down on the rack, which keeps them from sinking and becoming dense. When cool, unmold them. Serve immediately, or store them in an airtight container for up to 1 day. Recipes & Photography from PAYARD COOKIES by Francois Payard. Copyright © 2015 by Francois Payard. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved. BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
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RECIPE • 1 teaspoon (4 grams) cream of tartar or 2 teaspoons (10 grams) freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1 tablespoon (10 grams) all-purpose flour • 1 cup (140 grams) coarsely chopped almonds • 1/2 cup (100 grams) turbinado sugar, such as Sugar in the Raw • 8 ounces (240 grams) chocolate, melted “Payard Cookiesâ€? by François Payard (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30).
DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 400 F (200 C) and line two baking sheets with parchment paper. In a food processor, mix the sliced almonds with 5 tablespoons (60 grams) of the granulated sugar. Place the egg whites and cream of tartar or lemon juice in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, and whisk on medium speed until medium to firm peaks form. Slowly sprinkle the remaining 1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar over the egg whites and continue whisking until they form stiff peaks. (To ensure you have reached stiff peaks, stop the mixer and lift the whisk from the bowl; if the peaks that form stay pointed, the whites are ready.) Remove the bowl from the mixer and, with a silicone spatula, fold in the flour and the almond-sugar mixture.
BATONS MARECHAUX Makes about 100 cookies These were my dad’s favorite cookies because they are so full of flavor and texture, between the almonds inside and the crunch of almonds, sugar, and chocolate that covers them. And of course based on his preferred way to eat cookies, because they are perfect with ice cream. Their name means “marshals’ batons,â€? probably because a marĂŠchal de France receives a baton when being singled out for exceptional military distinction. It’s a classic cookie, sometimes made just with almonds, but my dad mixed his with raw sugar for additional crunch in the coating. The cookie dough itself also contains almonds. You can coat them with dark or milk chocolate.
• 3/4 cup (60 grams) sliced almonds • 5 tablespoons (60 grams) plus 1/4 cup (50 grams) granulated sugar • 3 large egg whites
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Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch round pastry tip. You can also just cut a 1/4-inch opening into the tip of the pastry bag.
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Remedy Diner
Pipe the mixture onto the lined baking sheets in 3-inch strips, not pressing down too much so that the cookies stay as close to 1/4 inch wide as possible. They will spread a bit when baking. Sprinkle the tops with the chopped almonds and turbinado sugar. Bake for about 12 minutes, or until the cookies turn a light golden brown color.
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Remove the cookies from the oven and let them cool completely on the baking sheet. Turn them upside down so that the almonds are on the bottom, and with a small offset spatula or a spoon, spread a thin layer of melted chocolate onto the backs of the cookies. Leave them on the baking sheet in a cool, dry place until the chocolate is completely firm, about 30 minutes. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 1 week, with a sheet of parchment or waxed paper in between each layer.
tako: “octopus� and yaki: “fried�/ “cooked� A true Japanese comfort food!
Recipes & Photography from PAYARD COOKIES by Francois Payard. Copyright Š 2015 by Francois Payard. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.
Set
The Takoyaki MOCU-MOCU
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
A Moist and Buttery Seeded Dinner Roll With a Sweet Side AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
By Alison Ladman The turkey, the stuďŹƒng, the gravy, the mashed potatoes, the sweet potatoes, the bacon-Brussels sprouts medley, the corn, the salad, the cranberry sauce ... A bountiful table, for sure. But no Thanksgiving dinner is complete without fresh dinner rolls. Because what else will you use to sop up all the juices and sauces and gravies that don’t make it onto your fork? So we created these buttery, tender seed rolls that are pull-apart delicious. They are a cross between an Italian scali bread—a light, tender bread crusted in sesame seeds— and a Portuguese sweet roll. The result is a soft, billowy roll with a light crumb, all perfect for wiping your plate clean. The lightly sweet flavor is the perfect complement to the many savory staples Thanksgiving oers.
DIRECTIONS Coat a 9-by-13-inch pan with cooking spray. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, potato flour and yeast. Set aside. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, add the ingredients in the following order: orange juice, water, butter, brown sugar, salt, the flour mixture, 2 whole eggs, plus 1 egg yolk (reserve the extra egg white for later). Mix first on the lowest speed, scraping the bowl to ensure all the ingredients are incorporated. Continue
Authentic Sichuan “mala tang� will leave you craving more and more.
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Manting
150 W. 49th St. 646-921-7777
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
RECIPE • 4 1/2 cups (1 pound 3 ounces) all-purpose flour • 1/4 cup (1 1/2 ounces) potato flour (also sold as potato starch) • 1 tablespoon instant yeast • 1/2 cup orange juice, room temperature • 1/2 cup water, slightly warmed • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature • 1/2 cup (3 1/2 ounces) packed brown sugar • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt • 3 eggs, divided • 1/2 cup toasted sesame seeds, divided • Coarse sea salt
Seriously Addicting
Customize your Hot-Pot with meat or seafood. We also offer a spicy Dried-Pot stirfry. Not a fan of spicy? We have a soup for you!
From The Associated Press
Prep & Cooking Time: 3 hours Serves: 16
Serious Hot Pot The PERFECT Lunch Spot
Alison Ladman is a chef, food writer, and recipe developer.
SWEET SESAME DINNER ROLLS
746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 ! Mocu-Mocu.com
It takes eight minutes of non-stop flipping and wrist flicking to turn the batter into these puffy balls.
at el Pote
to mix on speed 2. The dough should start out very sticky, but then become cohesive after about 2 minutes. It will not clean the sides of the bowl. Add a little more flour, a tablespoon at a time, if the dough is too sticky. Add 1/3 cup of the sesame seeds once the dough ball comes together, then knead in the mixer with the dough hook for another 5 minutes. Remove the hook and cover the bowl loosely with plastic wrap. Allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 16 even pieces. Roll each piece into a ball and place in the prepared pan; the balls should touch. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm place until puffy, about another hour.
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
Toward the end of the rising time, heat the oven to 350 F. Once the rolls are puffy, beat the reserved egg white until frothy. Gently brush the egg white over the tops of the rolls. Sprinkle with the remaining sesame seeds and a bit of coarse salt. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown and cooked through. Allow to cool in the pan.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Per serving: 230 calories; 50 calories from fat (22 percent of total calories); 6 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 50 mg cholesterol; 230 mg sodium; 38 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 8 g sugar; 6 g protein.
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
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Making Perfect Mashed Potatoes, Whether Plain or Gussied Up
體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 ) 品味朝鮮王朝的 美味佳餚(三樓)
By Alison Ladman
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
RECIPE
Are you the sort of person who insists that Thanksgiving mashed potatoes can only be served straight up buttery, or are you willing to allow room for a little creative adulteration in the name of bigger, bolder flavor? Either way, we’ve got you covered with a master recipe for basic, buttery-creamy mashed potatoes that are delicious just as they are. Stick with this version if you think mashed potatoes with anything beyond the basics (and a few lumps) are just a distraction. But in case you’re the type who gives thanks for the wild side of things, we also offer you six ways to jazz up our basic recipe. But before we tackle any of that, you first need to consider your potato varieties. Which variety you should use depends on the type of mashed potatoes you want. If you prefer pure white, super fluffy mashed potatoes, russets are a good choice. If you’re going for ultra-buttery, use Yukon Golds. And if you like to leave the skin on all or some of the potatoes, red bliss are a good choice because their thinner skin mixes into the mash (Yukon Golds are a good middle ground, but russet skin is too thick). The way you mash the potatoes also changes the consistency of the dish. For ultimate fluffiness, squeeze the potatoes through a ricer. Food mills also make very smooth potatoes. If you’re going for chunky (or leaving the skins on), you’ll want to use a hand-held potato masher. Then there’s the mixer. Some people use it, but it’s not a great choice. It can easily overwork the potatoes, breaking down the starches and producing the dreaded gluey potato syndrome. If you insist, go easy.
PERFECT MASHED POTATOES Prep & Cooking Time: 40 minutes Serves: 10 • 5 pounds potatoes, peeled or not, cut into 1-inch chunks • Kosher salt • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature • 1 to 1 1/2 cups half-and-half, warmed • Ground white pepper
DIRECTIONS Place the cut potatoes in a large pot, then add enough cool water to cover by at least 1 inch. Stir in 1 tablespoon of salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to maintain a simmer. Cover and cook until the potatoes are very tender and a fork penetrates them easily. Timing will vary by potato variety, but should take between 10 and 15 minutes. Be careful not to let the potatoes cook beyond this point; you want them tender, not totally broken down. Drain well in a colander, then return the potatoes to the pot. Set the pot over medium heat and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, shaking the pan now and then, to cook off excess moisture. Remove from the heat and mash. Once the potatoes are mashed to your liking, stir in the butter and 1 cup of the warmed half-and-half. If you like a wetter mashed potato, add the additional half-and-half. Season with salt and white pepper. Serve or use a variation below.
From The Associated Press
NUTRITION INFORMATION
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Per serving: 260 calories; 70 calories from fat (27 percent of total calories); 8 g fat (4.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 20 mg cholesterol; 410 mg sodium; 44 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 3 g sugar; 4 g protein.
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10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
Hand mash or use a ricer—never a mixer—to get perfect fluffy potatoes.
Sour Cream and Onion Use sour cream in place of the half-and-half and mix in 1 bunch of chopped scallions. Add a splash of milk to adjust the consistency, if needed. Brown Butter-Rosemary In a small saucepan over medium-low, cook 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter until the milk solids on the bottom of the pan turn light brown and smell fragrant, 5 to 6 minutes, then promptly remove from the heat. The butter will continue to cook a little longer, so be careful not to burn it. Stir into the potatoes in place of the room temperature butter and add 2 tablespoons finely minced fresh rosemary. Blue Walnut Stir in 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese, 3/4 cup chopped toasted walnuts, and the zest of half a lemon. Deviled Stir in 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, 2 tablespoons Dijon or spicy mustard, 1/4 cup prepared horseradish and 1/4 cup chopped fresh chives. Hunters Stir in 1/2 cup crumbled cooked bacon, 1 cup crumbled cooked sausage, and 1/2 cup finely chopped salami.
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212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btw madison & 5th Ave.)
Over three decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe.
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he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus on sushi and excel at the one thing that mattered most.
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Blue Walnut Mashed Potatoes.
Dirty Slice the top off 2 heads of garlic, just so the tips of the cloves show under the papery skins. Drizzle with olive oil and wrap loosely in foil. Roast in the oven at 350 F for 45 minutes, or until very tender. Meanwhile, thinly slice and saute 2 large yellow onions in a little butter over medium heat until well browned, about 20 minutes. Squeeze the garlic cloves out of the skins and mash with a fork. Stir into the potatoes, along with the caramelized onions, and a hefty dose of ground black pepper. AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like.
Brown ButterRosemary Mashed Potatoes.