ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 Nov. 27–Dec. 3, 2015 The
Sweetest Holiday Treats on
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The
Glory of Pies Gareth Hughes of DUB Pies made our hearts sing with these little saucy mince and cheese pies.
Unless you’re from Down Under or across the pond, you’ve probably been missing out on these feel-good, savory belly-warmers By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
n our personal list of food cravings, there’s usually that one thing we wouldn’t mind eating every day, an object of affection that would comfort us no matter how jaded our appetites became.
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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For one of our colleagues, her food soulmate is the meat pie. Hailing from Australia, where savory pies are sold at practically every corner store, she professes an undying love for them. “When I was in uni [short for university], I would eat a chicken pie every day for lunch,” she said. They were convenient, cheap, and filling. You could get the commercial brands at delis, or gourmet, handmade ones at local bakeries.
W i Din n at ner Damian Parker, co-founder, Parker’s
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The
Glory of Pies You’ve been missing out on these feel-good, savory belly-warmers
Pies continued from D1 “There’s so many different flavors. You’d never get tired of it,” she reminisced. Pies are what she misses most about home. “Why can’t New York City delis have them too?” Despite being a former British colony, here in America we didn’t inherit the love of eating savory pies like the Aussies did. Our pies tend to fall squarely in the dessert category. But as any Aussie or Brit will tell you, warm meat with gravy and vegetables, tucked inside buttery pie dough, make the perfect comfort food for the wintry cold days ahead. High British Standard The key to a good British pie is a saucy filling with a flaky pastry—but the filling can’t be too wet; otherwise, the pie becomes soggy. The proportion of filling to pastry has to be just right, with neither overwhelming the other. At Parker’s, a British goods company located in upstate New York, the pies meet the traditional standards. Co-founder Damian Parker explained that meat pies have a staple in British cuisine since medieval times, when the gentry class favored them for a filling and easily transportable meal while traveling on the road. Today, pies are a ubiquitous part of British life. “There’s no occasion when you wouldn’t eat pie,” Parker said. “Every convenience store sells them. It’s an everyday snack.” He compares it to the American burger, beloved by all. Some pies are associated with particular holidays. For Bonfire Night, Brits typically eat pork pies with mushy peas (mashed up peas cooked with butter and salt), and for Christmas, it’s customary to eat mince pies, where these days the traditional meat has been replaced with nuts and brandied vine fruits.
Venture Into Thailand’s
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Each region has its own variation. In the northern U.K., people favor the steak-andkidney, while southerners crave potatoes in their filling. In Cornwall, for example, people eat Cornish pasties, a pie that either resembles a small football or is folded in a crimped “D” shape. Inside are ground beef, turnips, potatoes, and onions. According to Parker, pasties gained popularity when workers in the mining industry brought them as portable lunches. Done the right way, the vegetables bring out the flavor of the meat, which only needs a touch of black pepper for seasoning. The pie’s outer crust should be golden, buttery, and flaky, while the inside is thicker and chewy. Parker’s pies, well researched and perfected over the years, are just right. Eight years ago, Parker journeyed all around the isles so he could learn pie-making from the masters and bring the tradition to the United States. He’d initially relocated to the States to invest in a startup company, but when he realized that no one was doing British food properly here, he decided to embrace his love for cooking and start a pie business. Since then, the company has expanded to become a onestop shop for all things British, from candies to condiments. Parker said a common faux pas committed by Americans is making shepherd’s pies with beef instead of the standard lamb used in the U.K. Indeed, lamb’s juicy richness is a more fitting match for the heavy mashed potatoes on top. The slightly browned gravy provides the perfect hint of char in each bite. Parker strives to make pies as traditionally British as possible—complete with Victorian pie presses. “We speak to authenticity. That’s our driving force,” he said. It could be why many British expats from around the country order pies from Parker’s. A
DUB’s Thai chicken pie had our Aussie colleagues raving about how it was just like the ones back home.
Parker’s
parkersbritishinstitution.com
Flinders Lane
flinderslane-nyc.com
DUB Pies
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From Aussie spot Flinders Lane, braised lamb and green peas cloaked in a flaky crust.
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout. Time to tuck in, mate! Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
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A common faux pas in the United States is to make shepherd’s pie with beef. Parker’s authentic British shepherd’s pie has a rich, juicy lamb filling. popular choice among them is the steak-andale. The ale gravy has an undertone of smoky tang, adding a pleasing moreishness to the tender chunks of beef. With different immigration waves, British pies have also absorbed the flavors of other culinary cultures, seen in Parker’s chicken tikka pie with its mild Indian-spiced filling. Parker has also created some distinctly American flavors. In honor of his new hometown of Buffalo, New York (where his company is based), he created the Buffalo pie, with spices reminiscent of Buffalo wings. Though the spices punch your palate, they don’t overpower the taste of the chicken. Eating the pie is like eating a more refined version of your favorite messy wings. Down Under-Style In the land down under, pie-eating is an undeniable part of being an Aussie or a Kiwi. Chris Rendell, executive chef at Australian eatery Flinders Lane in the East Village, says that pies are particularly popular at Australian football games, akin to how we consider eating hot dogs an essential part of watching our games. “At sporting events, they serve pies in pie warmers,” Rendell said, so that the pastries are toasty when you eat them. Our Australian colleagues also told us that manufacturers of tomato sauce (Aussie for ketchup) invented a packet that can be squeezed with one hand, so that spectators can keep their eyes on the game while they drizzle sauce on their pies. Aussies have added their own twists by changing up the filling and the texture of the pastry. At Flinders Lane, Rendell makes a braised lamb and green peas pie, a warming filling for cool weather. He rotates varieties throughout the year. Rendell’s pie is lighter in flavor compared
to Parker’s British pies. It has a similar flaky, buttery crust, but the braising sauce is toned down, with a flavor reminiscent of pot roast. Eating it conjures the feeling one gets sitting in front of a cozy fireplace, as the heat slowly envelops you. For those who want to try true Down Understyle pies with their signature chalky, tart shell-like pastry, DUB (Down Under Bakery) Pies in Brooklyn delivers. Our Australian colleagues agreed that DUB indeed captured the essence of real Aussie pies with their tougher crust, which differs from the puff pastry texture of the British. DUB was opened by New Zealand expat Gareth Hughes in 2003. Owing to immigrants from Southeast Asia bringing their culinary influence to the local cuisine, Australian and New Zealand pies also incorporate Thai and Indonesian flavors. DUB’s Thai chicken pie had our Aussie colleagues raving about how it was just like the ones back home. The strong notes of lemongrass, mixed with coconut milk, kaffir lime leaves, and chilis, reminded me of eating green curry at Thai restaurants. This was an exhilarating, spiced-up rendition of the meat pie, full of the liveliness found in Southeast Asian fare. Another delightful variety was the mince and cheese pie. A layer of sharp white cheddar cheese on top brought a piquant zing to the saucy meat filling. It’s a meat and cheese combination that may just rival American steak sandwiches. After eating through many, many pies of the British, Aussie, and Kiwi sort, we were persuaded that Americans are definitely missing out. To experience them for yourself, find recipes for Beef and Mushroom Pie With Guinness, and Venison Pasties from Nuala Cullen’s cookbook “The Best of Irish Country Cooking” at EpochTaste.com.
Tender chunks of beef smothered in ale gravy in Parker’s steak and ale pies. Parker’s, a British goods company based in upstate New York, ships its pies across the country.
Thai chicken pie from DUB Pies.
DUB’s mince and cheese pie.
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37 Barrow Street, New York, (212) 255 5416 ' DuetNY.com
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stuff to eat and drink around town
HISTORICAL THANKSGIVING After Thanksgiving celebrations are over, consider bringing your family on an educational tour to learn the roots of the holiday in Colonial-era America. The Staten Island Historical Society will open the Historic Richmond Town site on the Sunday of Thanksgiving weekend for people to explore the kitchens of early America. Staff will demonstrate how Colonial-era cookware was used, and explain the origins of the traditional Thanksgiving meal.
Latkes served at last year’s Latke Festival. ANTHONY CLEMENTE
Sunday, Nov. 29, 1 p.m.–5 p.m. Historic Richmond Town 441 Clarke Ave., Staten Island Tickets: $8 adults, $6 seniors and students, $5 children historicrichmondtown.org
WINTER’S EVE AT LINCOLN SQUARE
CREMA CLOSING CELEBRATION
Holiday celebrations begin at Lincoln Square with a tree lighting ceremony inside Dante Park. Afterward, the neighborhood restaurants and bakeries that will set up tents for tastings along Broadway include Masa, P.J. Clarke’s, Landmarc, Rosa Mexicano, Tavern on the Green, Bouchon Bakery, Magnolia Bakery, and Grandaisy Bakery. Each tasting will cost $1 to $4. There will also be ice sculpting, while street performers and musicians provide entertainment. Monday, Nov. 30 5:30 p.m.–9 p.m. Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle Broadway between 62nd & 64th streets Richard Tucker Park (between 65th & 66th streets) winterseve.org
Performers at last year’s Winter’s Eve at Lincoln Square.
EVAN SUNG
SHAKE SHACK HOLIDAY SHAKES Danny Meyer’s fast-casual burger joint, Shake Shack, is offering special holiday shakes. Its frozen custard treats get a new spin with these flavors: Gingerbread (gingerbread-spiced custard and cinnamon cookie crumble), Chocolate Peppermint (chocolate frozen custard blended with peppermint and topped with chocolatecovered candy canes), Christmas Cookie (sugar cookie frozen custard with red and green sprinkles), and Hanukoncrete ($4.75, available only Dec. 6–14), a holiday take on its frozen vanilla custard ice cream with strawberry purée and glazed doughnut). Through Jan. 3 All Shake Shack locations $5.75 shakeshack.com
Shake Shack’s Gingerbread, Chocolate Peppermint, and Christmas Cookie frozen custard.
At the Seventh Latke Festival, enjoy different restaurants’ take on the potato pancake traditionally eaten on Hanukkah. Participating restaurants include popular spots like The Vanderbilt, Veselka, Jacob’s Pickles, and Toloache. All proceeds from the event will go to The Sylvia Center, which promotes healthy eating among youth. Monday, Dec. 7 6:30 p.m.–9 p.m. Metropolitan Pavilion 125 W. 18th St. Tickets: $65 general admission, $100 VIP latkefestival.com
Reenactors at the Staten Island Historical Society’s museum site, known as Historic Richmond Town.
ELENA OLIVO
LATKE FESTIVAL
Chef Julieta Ballesteros’s celebrated Mexican restaurant Crema is closing after 10 years. To commemorate the closing, Ballesteros is serving a special menu every week until Dec. 23. Dishes include Taco de Venado (chorizo venison tacos), Yucca a la Mexicana (yuca with Crema spices, cotija cheese, and cilantro oregano aioli), Foie Gras Tacos, and Chilaquiles de Pato (shredded braised duck with tortillas). On New Year’s Eve, the chef will throw a goodbye party with more of her signature dishes like Sopa de Ostiones (soup with Komimoto oysters) and Tamalitos de Cabrito en Salsa de Cinco Chiles (goat tamale with five chile sauce), followed by a last long weekend special brunch. Tickets for the party will be $80–$150. Special menus through Dec. 23 New Year’s Eve Party, Dec. 31 Brunch through Jan. 3 Crema 111 W. 17th St. cremarestaurante.com
SPARKLING WINE AND CHEESE Sample some of the world’s finest sparkling wines and creamy cheeses to go with the bubbly at 92Y. Longtime cheesemonger Martin Johnson will be there to teach you how to best appreciate them. Thursday, Dec. 3 7 p.m.–8:30 p.m. 92Y 1395 Lexington Ave. Tickets: $45 92y.org/event/bubbles-bubbles-bubbles-cheese
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COURTESY OF THE GREAT GATSBY PARTY
GREAT GATSBY PARTY Join a party that promises to be as lavish as the ones thrown by Jay Gatsby. Enjoy Champagne Pommery, or cocktails made with St-Germain, Martini & Rossi Vermouth, and IVY, while noshing on petits fours and macarons. For entertainment, there will be a 1920s-inspired live band, a DJ spinning electro swing, and other live performances. Saturday, Dec. 5 9 p.m.–2 a.m. Capitale 130 Bowery Tickets: $85–$250 thegreatgatsbyparty.com
Madison Square Tavern’s Country Salad.
COURTESY OF THE GREAT GATSBY PARTY COURTESY OF THE GREAT GATSBY PARTY
MADISON SQUARE TAVERN BRUNCH This recently opened Midtown eatery is launching a brunch menu by executive chef Walter Hinds, featuring dishes like Vanilla French Toast with berry compote, bourbon caramel glaze, and Applewood smoked bacon; and Crab Cake Benedict with spinach, chive hollandaise, and home fries. Diners can also enjoy bottomless champagne cocktails like Silk Road with hibiscus syrup and Canton ginger liqueur and Figs on the Rocks with fig purée and apple bourbon. If you come with a large party (12 or more), everyone will be treated to a free dessert. Sundays Noon–6 p.m. Madison Square Tavern 150 W. 30th St. mstavern.com
Champagne Pommery.
CAVIAR
THE GREAT NORTHEAST CHEESE FEST
PIZZA MAKING AT ROSSOPOMODORO
CAVIAR
At this festival organized by New York Epicurean Events, cheese enthusiasts can sample over 60 different cheeses made at local creameries in the northeast region—from sheep’s milk tommes to sharp cheddars and goat cheeses. Of course, fine cheeses need to be paired with fine beverages. There will be wines, craft beers, ciders, and cocktails. For nibbling, Will Horowitz of the East Village eatery Harry and Ida’s Meat and Supply Co., chef Hugue Dufour of M. Wells Steakhouse, and chef Danny Brown of Danny Brown Wine Bar and Kitchen will be serving up savory dishes. For dessert, pastry chef Judy Lai of Silk Cakes will be making cheesecakes and chef Rudolf Merlin of Creme The French Bakery will create French pastries from artisanal cheeses. Cheese experts will also be doing demos on how to make cheese and curate cheese boards.
Learn how to make Neapolitan-style pies with third-generation master Rosario Granieri at Italian pizza chain Rossopomodoro. Groups of 10 to 25 people can book classes and enjoy a spread of antipasti, salad, gelato, and two beverages alongside their pizza creations. Rossopomodoro 118 Greenwich Ave. $100 per person rossopizza.com COURTESY OF ROSSOPOMODORO
Saturday, Dec. 5 6 p.m.–9 p.m. Flushing Town Hall 137-35 Northern Blvd., Flushing, Queens Tickets: $60 general admission, $48 members www.flushingtownhall.org/all-events ANDREW PARKER
Dirty Fried Rice (top), and vegetable and smoked tofu dumplings.
2 DUCK GOOSE BRUNCH Modern Cantonese restaurant 2 Duck Goose has started serving a Hong Kong-inspired dim sum brunch. Chef Carole Greenwood will cook up dishes like Hong Kong Style French Toast with coconut and caramelized pineapple; Bacon, Egg, and Cheese Steamed Buns with roast pork, egg, crispy tofu, and hoisin; and Chicken and Waffles with sambal-sesame fried chicken. Saturdays & Sundays Noon–3 p.m. 2 Duck Goose 400 Fourth Ave., Brooklyn 2duckgoose.com
Cheeses made at Vulto Creamery in Walton, N.Y.
Third-generation pizza master Rosario Granieri.
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
ENJOY A SEASONAL FEAST FOR THE EYES AND THE PALATE, TAILORED TO YOUR INDIVIDUAL TASTE TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
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GERBER GROUP
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
Veggie Flatbread.
Bottled Negroni. NOAH FECKS
Mr. Purple A rooftop bar and restaurant on the 15th floor of the new Lower East Side Hotel Indigo, Mr. Purple is a new venture from the Gerber Group. The venue is the group’s first downtown property, and offers grand views of the area. “We are extremely proud to introduce Mr. Purple to the vibrant Lower East Side community,” said Scott Gerber, principal and CEO of Gerber Group, in a press release. “We have worked hard to ensure the fabric of the neighborhood flows through every detail of the menu and property, to give Mr. Purple a truly authentic LES, New York vibe.” Mr. Purple is named after a fictitious artist—”a mysterious man, born and raised in the Lower East Side, the city was his muse. He was an unmistakable staple of the neighborhood and an unforgettable piece of its continuing character,” according to the release. Open daily, Monday–Friday from noon; Saturday & Sunday from 10 a.m.
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
CLASSICS with FLAIR
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
180 Orchard St. 212-237-1790 mrpurplenyc.com
Surya
Oovina
Chef and owner Lala Sharma (of Swagat and Savoury on the Upper West Side) is reopening his restaurant Surya, which closed several years ago. The new digs are on Bleecker Street. Sharma emphasizes flavorful and light Indian cooking. The signature dishes include Railway Chicken Curry with garam masala, tomato, and onion; Dalcha Machi, salmon tikka with sprouted lentils, with turmeric, bay leaf, mustard seed, and curry leaves; and Maharaja Shahi Korma, with an almond-based saffron sauce. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
Home-style Latin American cooking gets paired with unique varietals at Oovina. Chef Giovanni Morales, formerly of Market Café, goes back to his culinary roots with recipes from his family kitchen. The menu, which is gluten-free, includes Arroz Con Chorizo with house made jalapeño sausage, handmade Cassava Gnocchi with bacon, and Pollo Guisado [stewed chicken] with hominy and a pinot grigiotomatillo broth. The beverage selection features boutique wines and grower champagnes from around the world. Open daily for dinner and for brunch on Sunday.
496 Ninth Ave. (between 37th and 38th streets) 212-967-3892 oovinanyc.com
154 Bleecker St. 212-875-1405 suryanyc.com
COURTESY OF TREADWELL PARK
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
BE DELIGHTED. BE AT SONGKRAN.
Fish Green Curry
Lunch ✴ Dinner ✴ Delivery ✴ Catering For Reservations / Catering Orders Call 212-239-8792
SONGKRAN Homestyle Thai Kitchen 330 8th Avenue • SongkranKitchenNYC.com
NO MSG
Bustler Coffee With New Yorkers always being on the run, it was only a matter of time that someone would come up with a self-service coffee shop with customizable options without having to wait for a barista. Coffee veteran and owner Jamie Rogers said in a press release, “Throughout my years working with coffee shops I’ve noticed two big inadequacies—quality and efficiency. Bustler is breaking the mold of the traditional coffee shop model, offering a solution by putting control in the hands of guests without sacrificing quality and overall experience.” Bustler Coffee has opened a first location in Manhattan on Nov. 23, serving hot and cold brews on tap, small-batch roasted expresso— tap the button, wait 30 seconds, and voilà—as well as blended frozen coffees. Housemade natural simply syrups are available as well as various milk options (almond, soy, Hudson Valley Fresh milk). Sweet and savory pastries and lunch options range from $4 to $9. Different colors of coffee cups correspond to different price points, so you can check out more quickly. Should you want to stop and smell the roses, though, seating is also available. Open daily 7 a.m.-7 p.m.
485 Madison Ave. (corner of 52nd Street and Madison) bustlercoffee.com
Treadwell Park You have to really love beer to get “Beer Geek” tattooed on your knuckles. But certified cicerone Mikey Fishbone did just that. After working at Blue Hill at Stone Barns and Smoke and Barrel, he’s now curating the beers and cocktails at the new Treadwell Park on the Upper East Side. Twenty craft draft beers and ciders rotate weekly. A gizmo called a flux capacitor on-site controls the blend of nitrogen and carbon dioxide for each beer recipe. The libations are complemented by the menu created by chef Stephen Lyle, who whips up grass-fed burgers topped with béarnaise; Schaller and Weber’s signature bratwursts; Moroccan pastries filled with ground lamb and mint; and Korean-style Kimchi pancakes. The venue also features TVs, a game room with ping-pong tables and pinball machines, free self-serve popcorn, and a fireplace. The project comes from Abraham Merchant (Philippe Chow, Industry Kitchen) and partners Richard Cohn and Andrew Emmet. It’s due to open on Dec. 2.
1125 First Ave. 212-832-1551 treadwellpark.com
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Bierocracy Long Island City is home to new beer hall Bierocracy. Fiercely central European, the new gastropub was created by a group of Czechs and Slovaks. Local brews, ciders, radlers (beers mixed with soft drinks) all figure into the brew. On tap you’ll find B-Original, a Czech golden lager with an elegant malt body and a long lasting, hop finish; B-Witte, a traditional Belgian-style wheat beer brewed with orange peel and coriander; and B-Dark, a deep amber colored lager with aromas of roasted malt and spicy hops. Pilsner Urquell, Schofferhofer Weisse, and Weihenstephan Dunkel are available on draft as well. Curious about authentic pours from the
12-23 Jackson Ave. (at 47th Road) Long Island City, Queens bierocracy.com
JONATHAN GRASSI/PATRICK MCMULLAN COMPANY
CUT by Wolfgang Puck Coming in 2016 Chef-restaurateur extraordinaire Wolfgang Puck has opened restaurants all over the world, but never one in the gastronomic capital of New York City. Come July next year, though, Puck will finally set foot in the city with CUT, his modern steakhouse concept that started at the Four Seasons Hotel in Beverly Hills, Calif. and has since expanded to locations in London, Dubai, Bahrain, and more. “I always dreamt about coming to New York and doing something great,” Puck said at a party on Nov. 17 celebrating his partnership with the Four Seasons Hotel in downtown Manhattan, where his New York restaurant will reside. CUT will be the only restaurant on
Natural
regions? The “mliko” is an all wet foam pour, while “rezane” is achieved by drawing a pilsner first and then topping with the wet foam of a dark lager. The food menu is likewise inspired by Central Europe, with dishes such as the Lobster Salad in a Pretzel Roll with radish sprouts and crème fraiche, Pork Belly braised with plum ginger glaze and served with the house-made slaw, and the Bavarian Pretzel served with beer cheese spread and house mustard. The 4,000-square-foot beer hall seats 220. Open Monday–Thursday starting from 4 p.m. and Friday–Sunday from 3 p.m.
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
“Best Organic Soy Sauce” -Food and Wine Magazine
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
Chef Wolfgang Puck (R) with Marty Burger of Silverstein Properties at 30 Park Place on Nov. 17. the hotel’s property, serving breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Puck said his dream had long been in the making. “I thought it would never happen. It was the longest negotiation. I had two children in between.” Now, he’s working on developing new dishes in the test kitchen at CUT Beverly Hills. “I want New York City to be the flagship,” he added.
Compiled by Channaly Philipp & Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores.
Take Latkes on a Delicious Global Flavor Journey By Alison Ladman Around Hanukkah, we usually spend a lot of time thinking up new things to top our latkes with. After all, the potato pancakes themselves are pretty simple. Shred some potatoes, bind them into patties, then fry until golden and crisp. Now bring on the sour cream and apple sauce and smoked salmon and anything else you can dream up (caviar is awfully nice!). But this year we decided to come at it from the other side. Could we create delicious latkes that build their flavor from the inside out? Indeed! All we had to do was look to other cultures for inspiration. And so we have Greek-inspired latkes studded with shredded
www.wanjashan.com
zucchini and chunks of feta cheese. And we have Indian sweet potato latkes spiked with a hit of curry powder. And for an ultimate doughnut-like decadence, we created cinnamon-sugar latkes, too. All of these variations are built from our excellent classic latke recipe, which does a great job drying the shredded potatoes (the key for crisping when fried). From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
RECIPE CLASSIC LATKES Prep & Cooking Time: 45 minutes Makes: 12 • • • • • • • •
2 pounds Russet potatoes 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon potato starch 1/2 cup matzo meal Peanut or grapeseed oil, for frying 2 eggs, beaten Applesauce or sour cream, to serve
DIRECTIONS Using a food processor fitted with the shredding disc, grate the potatoes. Alternatively, you can use the large holes of a box grater, but the food processor makes for a better textured, more even shred. Working in batches, spread some of the grated potatoes and chopped onion evenly over a clean kitchen towel. Roll the towel up like a jelly roll and, holding it over a sink or bowl, twist to squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Unroll the towel and transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat with remaining potatoes and onion. Set aside. In a small bowl, combine the salt, potato starch and matzo meal. Whisk or stir to ensure there are no lumps of potato starch. Set aside. In a large, deep skillet, heat 1/3 inch of oil to 350 F. While the oil is heating, set a cooling rack
Classic latkes. over a rimmed baking sheet. This is where your latkes will drain, so have it near your pan. Though latkes are best eaten right away, you can hold your latkes in a 200 F oven for up to 1 hour. If that is necessary, turn your oven on at this point. When the oil is hot, combine the potato-onion mixture with the matzo-potato starch mixture and the eggs. Form into twelve 3-inch patties, and fry in batches of 3 to 4, for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until deep golden brown and crispy. Transfer to the cooling rack and repeat with the remaining potato mixture. Serve immediately with applesauce or sour cream.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
Curried Sweet Potato Latkes Use 2 pounds sweet potatoes in place of the Russet potatoes. Stir 1 to 2 teaspoons of curry powder into the matzo meal mixture. Cinnamon Sugar Latkes Leave out the onion. Stir 1 teaspoon of cinnamon into the matzo meal. Once the latkes are fried, let drain for 1 minute, then dredge in cinnamon-sugar. Serve with apple sauce or cranberry sauce. Zesty Zucchini and Feta Latkes Shred 1 medium zucchini and squeeze along with the potatoes and onions. Stir in 1 to 2 teaspoons hot sauce (or to taste) and 1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese with the egg when mixing together.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
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Often called a “Turkish bagel,” Simit are softer and lighter on the inside and crunchier on the outside.
REDS, WHITES, AND ROSÉS
Better
Than Bagels We also serve
Salads, Sandwiches, Turkish Tea and Coffee
124 W. 72nd St, New York 111 Worth St, New York 11 Waverly Place, New York 1400 Broadway, New York
Made Right in Brooklyn
, 212-496-6605 , 212-374-1224 , 212-784-0657 , 212-398-0098
SIMITANDSMITH.com
4 Convenient Locations!
An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu Shochu & sake Exceptional value
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ho would have thought? There are five winemaking facilities in New York City—two in Manhattan and three in Brooklyn. None of them actually own any vineyards. They purchase grapes from trusted producers, truck them in refrigerated trucks to the city, and then make wine from the grapes. I visited Brooklyn Winery, which is a winery with an adjoining wine bar, where you can enjoy the wines created on-site with small plates and shared dishes. Located in Williamsburg, it is very easy to get to. From Manhattan you take the L subway and get off at Bedford Avenue, the first Brooklyn stop, then walk to Eighth Street and go east one and a half block. Like many of the better winemakers I have met, Conor McCormack believes that the best wines are made in the vineyard. He uses modern equipment and vinification techniques at the winery, but maintains a hands-off approach when it comes to interfering with the winemaking process. He lets the fruit speak for itself! The most successful wines I tasted were the Gewürztraminer and the rieslings—a stainless steel fermented riesling, a barrel fermented riesling, and an on-the-skins fermented riesling. A good riesling is a difficult wine to make. The best European grapes grow at high-latitude vineyards in Germany (at steep, red or blue slate vineyards along the Mosel and Rhine rivers), in French Alsace, in southern Austria (Sud Tyrol), and northern Italy (Alto Adige). In North America, the best grapes grow on the Canadian side of the Niagara Escarpment, in New York’s Finger Lakes area, Washington state, and British Colombia’s Okanagan Valley. The riesling that I especially liked was the 2012 Skin Fermented, from the Finger Lakes— a dry wine with an exceptional nose of peach, pear, and lime with a touch of fresh hay. On the palate one tastes grapefruit, tangerine, lime, and white pepper with lots of minerality, finishing with citrus tones. It is as good as any of the dry (trocken) German wines I have tasted. The 2012 Gewürztraminer is spicy, with a heady aroma. The wine is golden in color, but the grapes themselves are reddish pink. In order to achieve the golden-yellow color you see in the glass, the juice is pressed off the skins right after the grapes are crushed, to prevent the pinkish hue of the skins from blending into the juice. The wine is well-balanced, fullbodied, and crisp, with ripe pear, lychee, and honeysuckle on the nose and a light lime acidity that keeps it lively. I also liked the red wines. The winery produces nine reds, including two pinot noir—one from Russian River and one from Carneros; a Syrah; two cabernet sauvignon—one from Son-
The wine bar at Brooklyn Winery.
Brooklyn Winery 213 N. Eighth St. Brooklyn, NY 11211 347-763-1506 bkwinery.com
oma, one from Napa; an old vine zinfandel and two blends, the Driggs Blend and the North Fork Blend, and finally Fortitude, a dessert, port-like sweet wine. There are also two rosé wines, a zinfandel and a cabernet sauvignon. The wines at the bar can be had by the glass or in flights, and of course by the bottle or even half-bottle. Bottles can be purchased to take home. Check their website for the most up-to-date hours. It is closed on select dates for private events. To your health! Manos Angelakis is a wine and food writer in New York City. As the gastronomy critic for LuxuryWeb.com, he has spent many years traveling the world in search of culinary excellence.
Assistant Winemaker Chuck Gergley drains the “free run” wine from a fermentation tank.
Samples are taken from a fermentation bin to monitor sugar and temperature levels.
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@EpochTaste
November 27–December 3, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
For Foodies in the Know, There’s Belfast
Experience the New Izakaya Tapas & Sake, an intense explosion of flavors
COURTESY OF SAWERS
By Susan James There is a well-known story among foodies in Northern Ireland’s capital of Belfast. A cook went into a shop and ordered sirloin, chicken, ox kidneys, and sausage and had them delivered by bicycle to the nearby docks where his ship, the Titanic, was about to sail. That shop with all its historical connections still stands in Fountain Centre but today it’s more likely to oer a tin of $36,000 caviar, pomegranate turkish delight, Guinness stout cheese, and a whole case of succulent cuts of alligator, ostrich, eel, and kangaroo. The food may have changed but Sawers, a delicatessen now owned by Kieran Sloan, was my first stop on an evening’s food crawl through a city just emerging as a haunt for foodies in the know. For decades Belfast’s reputation was defined by the conflict of the Troubles but in these peaceful times food tourism has become a major draw. St. George’s Market in the center of town provides a delicious showcase for the variety of foodstus available locally. Young growers, artisanal food producers, and upand-coming chefs have created a vibrant dining scene that local foodie Caroline Wilson from Belfast Food Tour invited a small group to explore. Sampling the exotic at Sawers (oh, that Guinness cheese), we moved on to try a genuine local sport, beer tasting at The Garrick Bar, a historic pub in Chichester Street. It was World Cup season and the pub was hung with festive flags of participating countries. But Garrick’s also has other sporting connections; it serves a line of premium Irish ales named for one Master McGrath, a champion greyhound racer in the mid-19th century. The pub’s beers are numbered 1 through 6 in commemoration of the numbers on greyhound racing jackets. We sampled everything from red ale to dry cider to Irish black stout, a specialty of Northern Ireland. “It’s all about the malt,â€? Wilson told us, explaining that the flavor presented better at room temperature than when chilled. The cider was made from Bramley apples grown on National Trust land and had a bright, light finish. A bowl of Caroline’s favorite Belfast champ was paired with the tastings. Born out of the Great Famine, champ is a mix of mashed potatoes, scallions, butter, and milk, with a dash of salt and pepper, and makes a tasty alternative to bread or crackers. Hungering for something a little more substantial to eat, we headed to Deanes Meat Locker, one of a triple threat of restaurants owned by Michelin-starred chef Michael Deane. Deane has something for everyone as his other restaurants sitting in a line on Howard Street are Love Fish, specializing in seafood, and Eipic, the Michelin-starred eatery under the command of Deane’s protĂŠgĂŠe chef Danni Barry. Decorated in sirloin red with portraits of Deane’s suppliers on the walls, the cuts of meat at Meat Locker are stored in glassfronted refrigerators stacked with pink translucent blocks of flavor-enhancing Himalayan salt. Through a picture window I watched asador chef Cathiel McGreevey skillfully turn huge chunks of chateaubriand, T-bone steak, and prime rib on a flaming grill. The meltin-your-mouth meat was served on wooden platters with demure pitchers of pepper sauce and tiny baskets of crisply cooked chips. Chez Deaneo’s house wine, a peppery red, was the perfect complement. Having stuffed myself on the beautifully cook meat at the Meat Locker, I wasn’t sure I could eat anything else. Then Wilson mentioned chocolate—and I was in. Deidre McCanny owns Co Couture on Chichester Street, the ultimate stop for a Belfast chocoholic. Cases of hand-dipped delicacies fill her small cave-like shop. “Chocolate,â€? McCanny informed us, “is a
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Kieran Sloan, owner of Sawers, the oldest deli in Northern Ireland. SUSAN JAMES
Young growers, artisanal food producers, and up-andcoming chefs have created a vibrant dining scene at St. George’s Market.
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The Garrick Bar. food group.� She favors Madagascar cacao beans, with its fruity flavors. The secret is in the roasting, and each chocolate house has its own style. Our crash course in the growing and processing of cacao beans finished with a salted chocolate fondant topped with chocolate sauce. Densely rich and intenselyflavored, it left me no doubt that I was eating the food of the gods. Our last stop was at Ox Cave, a wine bar on Oxford Street, for a sampling of local cheeses and chutneys. Young Buck, Mike Thomson’s award-winning raw milk blue cheese, and Leggygowan Farm’s goat’s milk blue finished o the food crawl—a crawl that proved beyond doubt that Belfast’s food scene is thriving. SUSAN JAMES
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Belfast Food Tour belfastfoodtour.com Sawers sawersbelfast.com The Garrick Bar thegarrickbar.com Salted chocolate fondant at Co Couture.
BANGKOK
Deane’s Meat Locker michaeldeane.co.uk/meat-locker
STREET FARE
Co Couture cocouture.co.uk
Heaven for Food Lovers
Ox Cave oxbelfast.com/cave Susan James is a freelance writer based in Los Angeles. She has lived in India, the U.K., and Hawaii, and writes about travel, art, and culture.
SUSAN JAMES
Yaowarat is one of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods, founded by East Asian traders in Siam over 200 years ago. It is a heaven for food lovers, blending the centuries old Thai and East Asian influences in an eclectic mix of street vendor cuisine. Experience the authentic taste of Bangkok street fare, at Sookk.
COURTESY OF SAWERS
Try Our Affordable Daily Lunch Specials.
Bring Sookk to you! Catering and delivery available.
SOOKK
Deidre McCanny, owner of Co Couture.
Sawers in Belfast.
2686 Broadway (Broadway & 103rd St.) New York, NY 10025 (212) 870-0253
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@EpochTaste
November 27–December 3, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
SWEET TREATS for Sweet Holiday Memories
By Orysia McCabe | Epoch Times Staff As I looked through “Payard Cookies” trying to decide what recipes to offer in this week’s installment, I came across some very helpful hints in the introductory sections, like the Notes on Baking. For example, did you know that the way ovens heat varies widely? And not only from one oven to another, but even from the left to the right sides, and from the front to the back— that’s why baking times are given in ranges. There are other helpful hints in this section on keeping your cookie yields consistent, freezing your dough, and dipping and glazing cookies. In the Equipment section some great advice is offered about the use of silicone products such as molds and baking mats (to make cleanup a whole lot easier and faster). There’s even a special request from chef François Payard about getting a kitchen scale for baking—though he’s ensured his recipes offer ingredient measurements by both volume (in cups) and by weight (in grams), in case you don’t want to get one. There is also an excellent section on piping cookie dough, something I am still trying to perfect myself. The section on Ingredients covers topics like butter, almond flour, candied citrus peel, and an extensive section on chocolate—everything from how to temper chocolate (as Payard wrote in the book, “Tempering is what gives chocolate its snap when you bite into it.”) to how the percentage of cacao affects the recipe. Payard has organized the chapters by cookie type, such as Dipped & Filled Cookies, Financiers & Tea Cakes, and Minis & Mignardises. As Payard explains in the preamble about minis, “‘Mignon’ means cute in French, and ‘mignardises’ are cute, tiny treats that come in addition to dessert … [They invite] some more lingering at the table, so that conversations and good times don’t have to end just yet.” This week I chose to test two recipes: Calissons d’Aix and Almond-Vanilla Financiers.
When I offered these morsels, every single person had nothing but positive things to say.
Easy-to-make, aromatic, and chewy financiers are a crowd pleaser—perfect for a cookie exchange.
Testing the Recipes I first tested out the recipe for the Calissons d’Aix, diamond-shaped treats made of
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2 of 3
almonds, candied orange peel, and apricot jam. The reason I chose this recipe is because it doesn’t require baking. This recipe is a winner. When I offered these morsels, every single person had nothing but positive things to say. “These are marvelous in every way!” one said. Another, whose favorite type of treat has citrus, said she thought the orange cut through the calissons’ sweetness nicely. She also liked the crunch from the crystalized sugar. That there is no baking and only four ingredients are big bonuses. The next recipe I tried was for the AlmondVanilla Financiers. The recipe made 45 minitea cakes. And while I usually have colleagues or friends try out the sweets first, this time to my great delight I was the first tester. The kitchen smelled so good as they baked I just couldn’t resist. The mini cakes were rich, light, sweet, little puffs of air. The almond flavor was there but not overpowering, and a richness came from the butter, but not so much so that they were heavy. It was a good thing I had other things to do because I could have sat there for some time just popping one after another, since they are small. Friends and colleagues offered their comments, including “aromatic, chewy, and the perfect size,” and they delighted in the “bouncy, squishy” texture. More commonly, people who tried them said they were delicious, adding they’d be great with coffee. One of the main reasons I chose this recipe from among so many was that no special equipment was required—no food processor or stand mixer. Twenty minutes in the oven and they were done. They would make a great delicacy for a cookie exchange. Since the recipe makes so many, you could whip up a batch and have enough to share and keep some at home to enjoy. I will definitely be making these often. In fact my water just boiled for tea, so I think I’ll just go have another. Happy baking. “Payard Cookies” by François Payard (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30)
RECIPE Makes: About 50 calissons Calissons d’Aix are diamond-shaped orange-flavored almond cookies with a royal icing crust that provides a crispy textural counterpoint to the soft filling. They are unusual in that they require no baking. Traditionally the dough is spread on a type of rice paper, but the right type is hard to obtain, and I have found that this slightly simplified version is just as delicious. Likewise, although candied melon is often found in the classic version, it’s not an ingredient easily accessible in America, so I’ve made these without. Spreading the dough on the back of a baking sheet will make it easier to roll and cut and will guide you to shape it into a rectangle. Rather than focusing on shaping a perfect rectangle, however, focus on getting the dough to an even thickness of 1/4 inch. You might not end up with perfect diamonds for each calisson, but you can always keep any flawed ones as baker’s treats.
Royal Icing • 1/2 cup plus 1/3 cup (100 grams) confectioners’ sugar • 1 large egg white
DIRECTIONS Make the Dough Line an inverted 13-by-18-inch baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper. In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the jam until it is hot. In a food processor, grind together the almonds and granulated sugar until the mixture is smooth. Add the jam and candied orange peel and process until smooth again. Depending on the size and power of your food processor, you might need to divide all the ingredients in half and process them in two increments, since the dough is very thick and can be hard to process. Spread the dough 1/4-inch thick on the lined inverted baking sheet. If you need to, place a second piece of parchment or waxed paper on top and roll it out with a rolling pin, since the dough is thick and sticky. Let the dough cool completely.
ALMOND-VANILLA FINANCIERS Makes: 40 to 50 financiers These financiers have a very delicate flavor, coming from the almond flour and vanilla extract in the batter. As a result, they are the perfect accompaniment to a cup of equally delicate tea, such as jasmine or Darjeeling. Present them in a bag tied with a beautiful ribbon when visiting friends—a hostess gift that will guarantee you are invited back. For an extra flourish, top each financier with an almond or other nut or a small piece of dried or candied fruit before baking. This batter will make enough to fill at least two 20-count financier molds, but no need to buy two: The batter can sit while one batch bakes without any issues.
• 14 tablespoons (200 grams) unsalted butter • 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons (240 grams) granulated sugar • 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (100 grams) almond flour • 3/4 cup (80 grams) all-purpose flour • 1 1/2 teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder • 7 large egg whites • 1 tablespoon (15 grams) pure vanilla extract • Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
DIRECTIONS Place the butter in a small saucepan over mediumhigh heat. Let it bubble and cook until it turns light golden brown. Whisk a couple times during the process to ensure that all the butter melts and browns evenly. Once it reaches the desired light brown color, immediately remove from the heat. Into a medium bowl, sift together the granulated sugar, almond flour, all-purpose flour, and baking powder, then whisk until they are evenly combined. Whisk in the egg whites and vanilla until just combined. Pour in the hot butter and whisk until everything is fully combined. If you wish, transfer the batter to a large measuring cup (which makes it easier to pour into the mold), or leave in the bowl; cover, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight, to allow the flour to relax.
CALISSONS D’AIX
Dough • 1/2 cup plus 2 teaspoons (160 grams) apricot jam • 4 2/3 cups (400 grams) sliced almonds • 2 cups (200 grams) granulated sugar • 3/4 cup (100 grams) chopped candied orange peel
RECIPE
Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Spray a silicone financier mold with nonstick cooking spray or line a mini muffin pan with paper baking cups. If using a silicone mold, place it on a baking sheet.
Make the Royal Icing In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the confectioners’ sugar and egg white together on high speed until the mixture becomes thick and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Assemble the Calissons Spread a thin layer of royal icing over the top of the whole cookie. With a sharp knife, cut it into diamonds that are about 1 1/2-inches long. In between cuts, dip the knife into hot water and wipe off the excess water with a towel, to ensure that you get a clean cut. Let the icing set up fully, then use a small metal spatula to remove each diamond from the parchment or waxed paper. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 1 week, placing waxed paper between each layer to keep the calissons from sticking. Recipe & Photography from PAYARD COOKIES by Francois Payard. Copyright © 2015 by Francois Payard. Used by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.
Stir the batter, then pour just enough of it to fill the individual molds or muffin cups three-quarters full. If you prefer to pipe the batter, which is a more precise way to fill the small molds, transfer it to a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch round pastry tip. You can also just cut a 1/4-inch opening into the tip of the pastry bag, and then pipe the batter into the molds. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the financiers are light golden brown, spring back when you lightly press on them, and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from the oven, let them cool completely in the mold, then store them in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 2 days. Dust them with confectioners’ sugar before serving. Recipe & Photography from “Payard Cookies” by Francois Payard. Copyright © 2015 by Francois Payard. Photography © 2015 by Rogerio Voltan. Reprinted by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.
“Payard Cookies” by François Payard (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30).
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November 27–December 3, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF CICI LI
The Most Delicious Chinese Egg Roll Recipe By CiCi Li What’s your favorite ingredient? If you ask me, I’d say it would probably be eggs because they’re aordable, healthy, and versatile. There are over a hundred ways to cook eggs: hard-boiled, soft-boiled, poached, sunny side up, scrambled. And what about omelets, frittatas, and custards? The list is endless. I’d like to share with you the most delicious recipe for Chinese Egg Rolls. You can use any vegetables in your fridge or even leftovers. Simply chop them into small pieces. The egg roll is made by adding your egg mixture to a pan, rolling it up partway, then adding more mixture, repeating until you get a complete roll. It’s simple but it may take a little practice to get the egg roll cooked just to your liking. CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradiseâ€? on NTD Television. Join her and discover quick and healthy recipes at CiCiLi.tv COURTESY OF CICI LI
RECIPE CHINESE EGG ROLLS Prep & Cooking Time: 8 minutes Serves: 2 • • • • • • • •
4 eggs 1 tablespoon water 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons chopped carrots 2 tablespoons peas 2 tablespoons sweet corn 2 tablespoons chopped scallions 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
Add chopped herbs, cheese, whatever you’d like, to rolled layers of savory egg.
Serious Hot Pot Seriously Addicting
Authentic Sichuan “mala tang� will leave you craving more and more.
DIRECTIONS
The PERFECT Lunch Spot
In a bowl, lightly whisk 4 eggs. Add the water (which makes the egg roll softer and silkier), along with the salt and chopped vegetables. Mix well.
Customize your Hot-Pot with meat or seafood. We also offer a spicy Dried-Pot stirfry. Not a fan of spicy? We have a soup for you!
Heat a pan and coat it with vegetable oil over medium heat. Add half of the egg mixture to the pan. Let it cook for about two minutes until the bottom has set but the top remains wet. Using a spatula, roll up the egg pancake until it’s about half-way rolled up, leaving half of the pancake flat on the pan. Slide the rolled pancake to one side of the pan, leaving space next to the unrolled half.
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Around the unrolled part of the pancake, add half of the remaining egg mixture. Let it cook for about two minutes until it’s half way done. Using a spatula, continue rolling up the egg pancake until it’s about half way rolled up, leaving the new half of the pancake flat on the pan. Slide the rolled pancake to one side of the pan.
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Add the rest of the egg mixture. Again let it cook for about two minutes until it’s half-way done. Then using a spatula, roll up the egg pancake completely. Remove from the pan and let the roll rest for a few minutes—it will continue cooking a little while it rests. Slice and serve.
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Entertaining This Holiday Season? You Need Our Cheese Pus By Alison Ladman It’s holiday entertaining season, so we say bring on the fat and carbs! After all, navigating the minefield of oďŹƒce parties and in-laws and dinner parties and cookie swaps (when you’d rather be on the couch with Netflix and a pint of ice cream) requires a bit of comfort food (not to mention a sti drink, but that’s another recipe for another time). Still, if you’re entertaining, you can’t totally slack o. You just need to marry your need for fatty comforting carbs with something dressy enough to serve in polite company. So we give you blue cheese and mushroom cheese gougeres. Or just call them cheese pus; they’re delicious no matter what you call them. They’re basically dough balls studded with chopped mushrooms and crumbled blue cheese. They are delicious right from the oven or at room temperature. And as an entertaining bonus, they can be prepped ahead and frozen on the baking sheet. Just add a few minutes baking time when you’re ready to cook them o. Blue cheese and mushrooms not your style?
Substitute pretty much any cheese you like, ditch the mushrooms, add fresh herbs or scallions. Whatever. It all works. And while your mother-in-law or boss may judge you, we promise to look the other way if you feel the need to power eat these like popcorn during the party. Our gougeres are a judgment-free zone. From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
BLUE CHEESE AND MUSHROOM GOUGERES Prep & Cooking Time: 50 minutes Makes: 25–30 • 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, divided • 8 ounces mixed mushrooms, finely chopped • 2 shallots, finely chopped • Kosher salt • 1/2 cup water • 1/2 cup milk • Ground black pepper • 1 cup all-purpose flour • 4 eggs • 3/4 cup crumbled blue cheese
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Coat 2 baking sheets with cooking spray. In a large skillet over medium-high, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the mushrooms, shallots, and a hefty pinch of salt. Cook until
UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST tender and lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside. In a medium saucepan over medium, combine the remaining 7 tablespoons butter, the water, milk, and a hefty pinch of each salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, then add the flour all at once. Stirring with a wooden spoon, mix well and continue to cook until the mixture becomes a ball that separates from the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Scoop the dough ball into the bowl of a stand mixer. Beat on medium speed for 2 minutes to allow the mixture to cool slightly. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating thoroughly between additions. Stir in the reserved mushroom mixture and the blue cheese. Scooping by the tablespoonful, place walnutsized dollops on the prepared baking sheets, leaving 1 1/2 inches of space between each. Alternatively, transfer the dough into a large zip-close plastic bag. Snip off one of the lower corners and pipe (squeeze) the mixture into place on the prepared baking sheets. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden brown. Enjoy warm or at room temperature.
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Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
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Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
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Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
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Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
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Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
D12
@EpochTaste
November 27–December 3, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
A spread of mazza, or appetizers, from Hummus 21.
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
thai
the modern experience THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY! 4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE
FREE DELIVERY
10 BLOCK RADIUS
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
v{iv} Bar & Restaurant
HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,*
Neighborhood Spot Hummus 21 Serves Solid Mediterranean By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff If you’re on the Upper East Side and in the mood for a change of tune, Hummus 21 delivers pleasant Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine. Owner Safone Ahmed may seem like an unlikely ambassador for Mediterranean fare— his family is from Bangladesh, and he got his culinary start serving British cuisine at his family’s restaurant in London, at age 15. Then Ahmed moved to New York and got his first job at a kosher Mediterranean restaurant working under an Egyptian chef. Since the Jewish kosher tradition does not allow meat and dairy to be prepared together, the chef taught him how to replace butter and other milk-derived ingredients in common Mediterranean dishes. At Hummus 21, though the restaurant no longer has kosher certification, Ahmed continues to use spices, soy milk, and margarine in place of dairy ingredients, with delicious results. Ordering a couple of scrumptious “mazzaâ€? (appetizers) for the table to share is a good start. Among the standouts are some dishes that are not commonly found on Mediterranean menus, like the “Briwatâ€? ($6), a Moroccan version of spring rolls, and the “Burekaâ€? ($6), a pu pastry found throughout the Middle East. The Briwat has an incredibly crispy skin covering a savory filling of finely ground beef and herbs that brings a tingle of heat to the tongue. The Bureka has a crunchy, flaky shell, which upon biting into, reveals a hearty, creamy filling of wild mushrooms and potatoes. The more common dishes are also well executed. The Mediterranean Grape Leaves ($6), for example, are zesty and minty, but with a hint of sweetness you don’t usually find in the grape leaves stued with basmati rice and herbs. The sweetness comes from the sauce, in which Ahmed replaces the typical yogurt with soy milk. The tabouli salad (spelled Tabule on the menu, $6) is refreshing, with the bulgur wheat serving as a mild complement to the parsley, cilantro, scallions, tomatoes, and bright lemon vinaigrette mixed in. It’s a fresh, clean dish that gets your taste buds excited. As for the restaurant’s namesake dish, the hummus ($11) is dressed with a touch of paprika, olive oil, and parsley, but remains light. If you like your hummus smooth and creamy with a clear chickpea flavor, this version is perfect for you. Among the entrees, you can’t go wrong with the kebab. On the Wild Salmon ($22) and Mix Kebab ($26) platters, the fish and meats were grilled just right. The salmon is fall-o-the-fork tender, while the meats are flavored with spices that delight the palate. Both dishes come with a variety of grilled vegetables and “mejedraâ€? rice,
Mix Kebab Platter, with chicken, beef, and lamb chop kebabs.
Kadaif, a Middle Eastern dessert made of shredded filo dough and topped with vanilla cream and honey.
Hummus 21
1055 First Ave. (between 57th & 58th streets) 212-371-2161 Hummus21.com Hours Daily 5 p.m.–10:30 p.m. a Middle-Eastern mixture of lentils and rice. For dessert, there’s the dairy-free ice cream ($5), the Chocolate SouÊ cake ($6.50), or the rstaurant’s version of baklava ($5.50) that’s crispier and less cloyingly sweet than the ones you typically find at pastry shops—all of which make for a lovely ending to a satisfying meal. But I was more intrigued by the “Malabiâ€? ($6), a Middle Eastern flan-like dessert, made here with soy milk. The result is a light, mild palate-cleanser, with a hint of sweetness from the rose water syrup and shredded coconut on top. The Kadaif ($7) is also fun to eat, consisting of a layer of crunchy shredded filo dough, with drizzled honey and a scoop of vanilla cream on top.