SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 November 4–10, 2016
Donna Arpaia’s
Prova Pizzabar on D8
www.EpochTaste.com Seaweed purée adds some saltiness and color to this bowl of rice.
Carrots, braised in a soy sauce-based concoction.
Spanish mackerel in a potent sauce made with chilies you don’t usually see in Korean food: jalapeño and poblano peppers.
Atoboy turns local seasonal vegetables like jicama into kimchi.
Oyster cream and pickled radish tops add extra dimension to this beef tartare.
At Atoboy,
Korean Soul
This napa cabbage kimchi packs a ton of heat.
Blends With the World’s Flavors By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
See Atoboy on D2
COURTESY OF ATOBOY
T
he impossibly soft chunks of octopus, scorched just slightly along the edges to produce a crackly crust, bring to mind Spanish tapas, with a strong scent of garlic and spices. But dig underneath and you’ll find bits of kimchi and chorizo sitting in a pool of fire-red, kimchi-infused oil, with the spicy and piquant elements of Spanish and Korean cuisines indistinguishable from each other, fused into one.
The boundaries between Western and Korean flavors are erased.
Chef Junghyun “JP” Park and his wife, Ellia Park.
D2
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF MACHIAVELLI
DIM SUM SUPPER AT KINGS COUNTY IMPERIAL Kings County Imperial is serving dim sum, a Cantonese-style meal typically served for brunch, during weekday evening hours. Depending on the size of your party, you can choose different combinations of dim sum, vegetable, and noodle dishes, including soup dumplings, mock eel (shiitake mushrooms and housemade soy sauce), and Copperwell street noodles with chili oil, shrimp, and Chinese greens. $15 per person.
ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL AT STK
Machiavelli’s dining room. COURTESY OF MACHIAVELLI
Monday–Friday 5:30 p.m.–7 p.m. Kings County Imperial 20 Skillman Ave. (between Lorimer Street & Meeker Avenue), Brooklyn KingsCoImperial.com LEVI MILLER
The steakhouse STK is celebrating its 10th anniversary with a dish that was offered on its first menu: seared La Belle Farm foie gras on a bed of apple compote-topped French toast, with drizzled maple-sherry gastrique, $22. Through Thursday, Nov. 10 STK Downtown 26 Little West 12th St. (between Washington & Greenwich streets) STK Midtown 1114 Avenue of the Americas (at 43rd Street) TOGrp.com
Szechuan Cucumbers. Gamberi con Fregola Sarda (shrimp with Sardinian pasta).
VETERANS DAY SPECIAL AT DINOSAUR BAR-B-QUE The popular barbecue joint Dinosaur Bar-B-Que is honoring veterans with a special promotion. Until Veterans Day on Nov. 11, patrons who purchase a Sam Adams Boston lager have the option of buying a beer for a veteran. Then, on Nov. 11, any veteran can redeem that beer for free. Patrons who “pour it forward” can take home a free Sam Adams pint glass. Through Thursday, Nov. 10 Dinosaur Bar-B-Que 700 W. 125th St. (at 12th Avenue) 604 Union St. (between Third & Fourth avenues), Brooklyn DinosaurBarBQue.com
SPECIAL WINE AND DINNER AT LANDMARC TRIBECA
ITALIAN APERITIVO HOUR AT MACHIAVELLI The weekday aperitivo hour at Machiavelli pairs each alcoholic beverage with a small margherita pizza, mixed olives, and housemade potato chips, with an option to order additional plates like salami and caprese skewers with mozzarella and tomatoes. Choose from the Italian wine list or cocktails named after famous Italian artists, like the Paolo Uccello, made with Hornitos Reposado tequila, Solerno blood orange liqueur, rosemary, and thyme. Served at the bar only. Monday–Friday 4 p.m.–6 p.m. Machiavelli 519 Columbus Ave. (between 85th & 86th streets) MachiavelliNYC.com
秋のメニュー
Chef Marc Murphy will be preparing a dinner to celebrate the wines of Schramsberg Vineyards and Davies Vineyards in Napa Valley. Wines will be paired with hors d’oeuvres, the three-course dinner, and dessert. The meal includes dishes like risotto Milanese (saffron, bone marrow, and Parmesan); braised lamb shank with celery root purée and Brussels sprouts; and olive oil cake with citrus, whipped mascarpone, honey, and hazelnuts. $150 per person. Tuesday, Nov. 15 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Landmarc Tribeca 179 W. Broadway (between Worth & Leonard streets) BenchmarcEvents.yapsody.com
ANDERS SCHONNEMANN
BAKING CLASSES AT MEYERS BAGERI
FALL PLATES AT DONGURI
Meyers Bageri, the bakery of Nordic restaurateur Claus Meyer, is hosting a series of classes on making bread and baked goods. In the first class on Nov. 5, you’ll learn how to make whole-grain wheat bread from scratch, from milling and proofing to kneading and baking. You may also taste bread samples with charcuterie, cheese, butter, jam, and Brownsville Roasters Coffee, and can take home an apron, a sourdough yeast starter, and bread dough to bake the next day. $95 per person.
A sampling of our fall menu
Appetizer
Assortment of Small Appetizers
Soup
Traditional Clear Soup Ground Winter Melon
Sashimi
Chef’s Selection of Assorted Sashimi
Grilled
Meyers Bageri Commissary 38-40 10th St. (between 38th & 40th avenues), Queens ept.ms/MeyersBageri
Grilled Pompano
Mains
“Miyazaki” Wagyu Steak
Kanelsnurre (cinnamon swirls).
Dessert
“Mochi” Ice Cream
THAIWAIIAN PIZZA AT SPEEDY ROMEO Chefs Justin Bazdarich of Speedy Romeo and Leah Cohen of Pig and Khao have joined hands to create the fusion Thaiwaiian Pizza, made with grilled Spam, wood-fired pineapple, red curry coconut tomato sauce, Provel and fontina cheeses, red onion, Thai basil, and cilantro. $20 per pie. Through Thursday, Nov. 17 Speedy Romeo 63 Clinton St. (between Rivington & Stanton streets) SpeedyRomeo.com
Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.
NEW MENU AT IPPUDO
Chef Yamasaki
RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)
Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150
The popular Japanese ramen chain has revamped its menu to include new dishes, like the Sumiyaki Chicken, featuring chicken thighs grilled on a bed of white charcoal; the Okonomi ramen with a savory pancake and washugyu beef; the Karaka Spicy NY ramen with sesame broth, housemade hot spices, tofu chashu, cabbage, kikurage mushrooms, scallions, and garlic oil; and the Shojin ramen, with a broth made from vegetables, beans, and seaweed, served with Japanese rice noodles, foraged vegetables, sixgrain rice, goji berries, and yuzu vinaigrette. Ippudo 65 Fourth Ave. (between Ninth & 10th streets) 321 W. 51st St. (between Eighth & Ninth avenues) IppudoNY.com
D3
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com PAUL WAGTOUICZ
Benedicto dish, with crab, poached egg, and espelette hollandaise.
BRUNCH AT AMADA
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
Chef Jose Garces has launched an Andalusian-inspired brunch on weekends. Options include dishes like Tortilla Francesa, an omelet with manchego (cheese from sheep’s milk), crispy potato, and baby lettuce; Huevos Flamencos, eggs with tomato-pepper stew, breadcrumbs, and serrano ham; and Revuelto, soft scrambled eggs with lobster and pipérade (a Basque dish of sautéed onions, peppers, and tomatoes). Saturday & Sunday 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. Amada at Brookfield Place 250 Vesey St. (between North End Avenue & West Street) NewYork.AmadaRestaurant.com
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
BREAKFAST AT MATTE BENTO Matte Bento, a Japanese bodega and restaurant, is now serving breakfast daily. Options include Japanese-influenced dishes like “omurice,” a thin omelette wrapped around mushroom fried rice; matcha croissants with adzuki bean filling; and the organic chicken karaage (fried chicken) sandwich. Daily 7 a.m.–11 a.m. Matte Bento 516 Hudson St. (between West 10th & Christopher streets) MatteBento.com
sagaponacknyc.com
COURTESY OF BURGER & LOBSTER
NEW BURGERS AT BURGER & LOBSTER The popular Flatiron restaurant serving burgers and lobster rolls has added three new burgers. Choose from The Beast, a six-ounce Pat LaFrieda patty topped with lobster meat, Swiss cheese, lettuce, and truffle mayo; The Frenchman, topped with five ounces of foie gras and raspberry jam; and The BBQ Pork, topped with pulled pork, housemade barbecue sauce, lettuce, pickled onions, and pickles. Burger & Lobster 39 W. 19th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) BurgerAndLobster.com
The Beast burger.
COURTESY OF WINTER VILLAGE
HOLIDAY SHOPS AT BRYANT PARK The holiday shops return to Bryant Park for this year’s winter season with food vendors and boutique shops. This year’s lineup of street food includes Veselka’s pierogies, Home Frite’s Belgian fries, Baked Cheese Haus’s baked raclette cheese, and a slew of purveyors making artisanal snacks and sauces. Through Monday, Jan. 2 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Bryant Park (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) WinterVillage.org
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
Visitors enjoy the shops at last year’s Winter Village in Bryant Park.
FALL MENU AT FARO At Faro, fall vegetables are prepared with influences from different cuisines. The Garnet Sweet Potato is served with merguez sausage (spicy North African sausage), crème fraiche, arugula, cumin vinaigrette, and powdered shiitake mushrooms. The Salt-Baked Rutabaga is glazed with bourbon-maple syrup and served with watercress and cloumage cheese. Other hearty dishes include Coronetti pasta filled with honey nut squash and finished with coconut curry and coriander; and honey butter-glazed, dry-aged duck breast with roasted hazelnut-watercress puree, medjool dates, and oat-celery root “risotto.” Faro 436 Jefferson St. (between St. Nicholas & Wyckoff avenues), Brooklyn FaroBK.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
D4
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF ATOBOY
This is some real porky goodness.
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
Confit pork jowl, tender and bouncy, with romaine lettuce and barley mixed with ssamjang paste.
At Atoboy, Korean Soul
The Nuaa
Blends With the World’s Flavors
1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) • 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
COURTESY OF ATOBOY
Atoboy continued from D1
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
THE NEW AMERICAN TRADITION
2nd Location
In chef Junghyun “JP” Park’s cooking, the boundaries between Western and Korean flavors are erased. Park and his wife, Ellia, recently opened Atoboy, in the NoMad neighborhood, where Korean spices, sauces, and stocks become the foundation for blending in other cultures’ flavors. Unlike most Korean restaurants that serve banchan (small dishes) only to accompany main dishes, at Atoboy they are the sole focus of the menu. Park, who was previously chef de cuisine at modern Korean restaurant Jungsik, explained that the traditional Korean dinner table consists of many banchan that the family shares, eaten along with bowls of rice and soup. Park wants to bring this part of Korean culture to the dining scene here. The dining room is a bare, minimalist setting, with exposed concrete walls and long white wooden tables. Its hushed noise levels are a welcome reprieve from outside. For dinner, you pick three dishes from a menu of 20 options, served with complimentary rice ($36 per person). You also have the option of choosing a “seasonal” rice, such as seaweed, with an extra hint of saltiness, or barley mixed with shiitake mushrooms, chewy with a touch of vinegary tartness (additional $2). Each order also comes with housemade kimchi, made with a rotation of seasonal local vegetables like jicama or tomatillo.
Atoboy
43 E. 28th St. (between Madison & Park avenues) 646-476-7217 AtoboyNYC.com Hours Dinner: Monday–Saturday 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Lunch: (starts Nov. 7) Monday–Friday Noon–2 p.m.
COURTE
Global Influences Here, the dishes bring different parts of the world together. Start off with lighter fare from the top of the menu, such as littleneck clams spiced with gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes), garlic, and scallions. That familiar Korean kick is tempered by a little Mexican flavor in the form of cheesy avocado cream and a sprinkle of micro cilantro. Park has traveled to more than 50 countries and has worked in kitchens in London, Seoul, and Melbourne, so his inspirations come from all the different places and cuisines he’s experienced. In one dish, rings of squid encase a finely chopped blend of pork, shrimp, and chives, like a Korean calamari sausage. This is in fact inspired by a Korean street food dish of stuffed squid. A drizzle of salsa verde on top, made from parsley, mint, scallions, garlic, and anchovies, gives the dish an Italian flair.
SY O
FA TO B
Like a calamari sausage, rings of squid encase a blend of pork, shrimp, and chives.
OY
sic Korean dishes. For a traditional dish of braised mackerel with radish, Park uses Spanish mackerel, a species found in Atlantic waters, and slow cooks it until the meat falls apart with ease, disintegrating in the mouth almost instantly. The fish is braised in a typical Korean stock of dried anchovies, kelp, and vegetables, and in the accompanying sauce, he adds a purée of green chilies, like poblano and jalapeño, instead of the red chilies common to Korean cuisine. A dish called gamjajorim—usually made with potatoes—gets remixed, with sunchokes and oyster mushrooms instead. The original soybased sauce is enhanced with black truffle cream for a powerful combination of umami, aroma, and sweetness. Dotted with oranges for added brightness, the dish hits all the taste sensations at once. Thick slices of confit pork jowl have a crispy skin that envelops the generously fatty, bouncy meat, which resemble slices of succulent Chinese or even Italian roast pork but with a lighter seasoning that brings out the meat’s flavor. Served on the side is a heap of romaine lettuce, as well as barley tossed with ssamjang, the spicy Korean soybean paste. To fans of Korean barbecue, eating the pork jowl is similar to the ritual of slathering ssamjang onto rich grilled meats, then wrapping them in lettuce. Meanwhile, Atoboy’s carrot dish is inspired by galbi jjim, braised short ribs that absorb flavor from a sauce of soy, mirin, and root vegetables. When Park realized the carrots were plenty flavorful without the meat, he decided to put them on the menu on their own. The carrots are paired with that braising sauce— with a roasted sweetness resembling caramel—and served with chestnuts and Korean-style pickled pearl onions. The desserts are light and multidimensional. The honey panna cotta is topped with black rice vinegar, sablé crumble, and pomegranate seeds ($7), while the black raspberry cake—broken into three petite squares— is layered with black raspberry mousse, pistachio crémeux, flourless chocolate sponge cake, and hazelnut chocolate feuilletine ($9). With its delicious twists on traditional dishes and exciting blend of flavors from different cuisines, Atoboy is a bright, new addition to the city’s growing scene of Korean-inspired restaurants.
Interpreting the Classics The chef brings a new interpretation to clas-
SA M I R
AB
OU AO U/ EP
OC HT
IM ES
Come try our creative approach to brunch, lunch, and dinner—on Murray Hill.
557 3rd Ave @ 37th Street New York, NY 10016 (212)686-8080 | www.hendriksnyc.com | Follow us
SAMIRA BOUAOU EPOCH TIMES
(Left to right) Braised carrots with galbi jjim sauce, chestnuts, and pickled pearl onions; honey panna cotta with black rice vinegar, Sablé crumble, and pomegranate seeds; and Spanish mackerel with green chili sauce, radish, and scallion stalk. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D5
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
All Hail the
Pâté en Croûte By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Guillaume Ginther, executive chef of Le Coq Rico, is crowned the winner.
Ginther’s winning pâté en croûte features a perfect puff pastry crust, heritage breed chicken, and Hudson Valley foie gras.
COURTESY OF LE COQ RICO
What Is Pâté en Croûte? The pâté en croûte is one of those dishes from practically the beginning of French gastron-
Some of the judges on the panel, including (L–R) chef Jean-Louis Dumonet, chef Gabriel Kreuther, Food & Wine magazine Editor Nilou Motamed, Maison M. Chapoutier owner Michel Chapoutier, D’Artagnan CEO and owner Ariane Daguin, chef Daniel Boulud, chef Elena Arzak, chef Philippe Bertineau, and chef Jacques Pépin. LESLY LYNCH
On a dark night last week on the Upper East Side, a fierce wind whipped furiously at the French flag. On the second floor of the townhouse where the French consulate is located, two men brandished a sword, lifting it high above the heads of a chosen few. There was neither a sense of doom nor bloodshed, though. Spirits were merry as Gilles Demange and Arnaud Bernollin called upon the patron saints of cooks, bakers, and butchers as they knighted inductees into their brotherhood, La Confrérie du Pâté Croûte (“The Brotherhood of the Pâté Croûte”). The occasion? The semi-finals of a global competition meant to crown the perfect pâté en croûte, a traditional French dish whose closest equivalent could be said to be a meat pie. The architecture of a pâté en croûte is fairly simple: dough encasing a stuffing of meat and perhaps some vegetables. After it’s baked, a gelée (essentially a stock reduction) is injected between the crust and stuffing to eliminate air pockets, explained Ariane Daguin, CEO of D’Artagnan, a purveyor and producer of foie gras and other fine meats. She was one of the judges of the competition, which was held on U.S. soil for the first time this year. It brought together an esteemed panel of judges—including chefs Daniel Boulud, Elena Arzak, Andre Soltner, Jean-Louis Dumonet, Philippe Bertineau, and Gabriel Kreuther— who were seated at a long table. With brows furrowed and taste buds unfurled, judges looked intensely focused as they tasted each dish and discussed its merits among themselves. Onlookers remarked that it looked very much like a certain painting of 13 men from a biblical scene.
omy. In a phone interview, Daguin traced it to the French Revolution—which, she said, caused aristocrats to flee, leaving their chefs without employment. To earn their livelihood, they turned to making single-sized portions of pâté en croûte, much like chicken pot pies, which they sold to the masses. “That was the first fast food in the world, “ she said. “It was sold and eaten standing up.” There’s an art to the dish’s presentation: Not only is it often decorated on the outside with intricate patterns, but slicing it reveals a design inside. One pâté en croûte at the competition event sported a stuffing in the likeness of the American flag, albeit with fewer stars. Its execution is tricky; it can turn out beautifully golden on the outside and still be raw on the inside. It requires the talents of both a pastry chef and a savory chef to get it just right, explained Daguin, and spotting it on a restaurant menu indicates a chef with multifaceted skills. The Winner The winner was Guillaume Ginther, executive chef of Le Coq Rico in Manhattan’s Flatiron neighborhood. The restaurant, run by chef Antoine Westermann, highlights heritage birds with incredibly flavorful meats. Daguin said Ginther’s pâté en croûte “was extraordinary because the crust was perfect.” That crust, as it turns out, is not made from the same old pie crust dough, but unexpectedly incorporates pâte feuilleté (puff pastry). “The gelée was incredible,” Daguin contin-
ued. “It was so flavorful … and then what he did inside was very original.” Usually, a pattern—perhaps made from mushrooms or pistachios—would be found within the stuffing, she explained. But Ginther placed the stuffing in the very center, which he surrounded with a ring of chicken breast, and around that, pure Hudson Valley foie gras. Every layer “was perfectly cooked,” Daguin said. For the award-winning dish, Ginther said he used Brune Landaise chicken (a heritage variety), Berkshire pork butt and lard, chicken liver, pistachios, spinach, five-spice, a mix of herbs (including parsley and chives), and the restaurant’s special seasoning mix on the foie gras. “You have to have a little bit of patience, and also the desire,” Ginther said, of making the dish. It’s a familiar one for Ginther, whose mother used to make it at home. In France, it’s a dish you see not in restaurants, but in butcher shops—it used to be a way to use up cuts of meat that went unsold. At Le Coq Rico, he does make a popular version—albeit a simpler one that encases only glorious foie gras. Other winners included Eric Gauthier from Ateliers & Saveurs (in second place) and Nicolas Rafa from Le District (in third place). Attendees were also invited to cast their votes, and the popular vote went to Jack Logue from Betony. As for Ginther, he is off to the finals, to be held in Tain-l’Hermitage, France, on Dec. 5.
Emilia Romagna IS THE REASON YOU LOVE ITALIAN FOOD & WINE BALSAMIC VINEGAR • WINE TRAILS • PARMIGIANO REGGIANO • TASTINGS Emilia Romagna is the land of flavors, making it a destination for the gourmand in search of tradition, authenticity, and top quality gastronomy. We are home to some of the world’s finest products and producers. It is all here. Find out what you missed the last time you went to Italy:
VISIT WWW.EMILIAROMAGNATURISMO.COM WWW.VISITVIAEMILIA.IT
D6
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY ANDREA HAYLEY/EPOCH TIMES
To visit Nirmala’s Kitchen is to be inspired to explore.
(Above) Nirmala Narine on her farm in the Hudson Valley.
Nirmala Narine expands her spice world with Hudson Valley shop
(Right) Narine’s spice shop.
A Perfect Fusion of East & West
By Andrea Hayley | Epoch Times Staff
Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
Shangri La 208 7th Ave.
(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel •
The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu • Shochu & sake • Exceptional value
Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar • ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) • (212) 581-1581
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
Spice Girl
Referred to as the “Indiana Jones of spices” by celebrity chef Eric Ripert, Nirmala Narine has built a brand and career on her love of prized aromatics from around the world. She’s traveled to over 165 countries to source them from farmers firsthand and has spent a lifetime educating people on how to incorporate them into their lives. She’s a syndicated TV show host, author, and teacher, and the founder of beauty and spice purveyor Nirmala’s Kitchen Inc. With the rest of her time, she is a consultant to Fortune 500 companies on global trends in flavor, food, culture, and fragrance. Now she’s adding to her spice world by opening her picturesque farm in the Hudson Valley to the public. And you guessed it—there’s a spice shop on the farm. Narine’s New Paltz-area property is a former working dairy and rodeo site from the 19th century. Her beautifully restored barn and abutting chicken coop sits atop a rolling hill surrounded by a meadow. Her shop is close to the road, where a colorful sign hints to passersby of the magic that awaits them inside. Narine feels there is not enough color in American cuisine, and she wants to give cooks more options. That is why she fills her store with high-quality and rare spices, salt blends, spiced grains, homemade soaps, teas, lavender, blueberry jam, and ghee. To visit is to be inspired to explore. Luckily, her cookbooks are available for a detailed how-to on cooking with the likes of Oman black limes, Alpeppy turmeric, or Mysore green peppercorn. When I visited, Narine served up treats including a punchy quinoa salad spiked with cumin, turmeric, and Malabar spinach, a distant cousin to English spinach that Narine grows in her garden. Along with it came a beautifully paired eggplant dip, cheese, and Witch Finger grapes— a rare and deliciously sweet variety of black grapes grown in California. True to Herself Narine’s love for spices comes from growing up in Guyana, where she used to help her grandfather, an ayurvedic scholar, dispense medicine to the villagers. The medicine was in the spices.
Narine’s love for spices comes from growing up in Guyana, where she used to help her grandfather, an ayurvedic scholar.
Nirmala’s Kitchen 690 New Paltz Rd. Highland, N.Y. 845-834-2363 NirmalasKitchen.com Hours Friday–Sunday Noon–5 p.m.
Using what is called a masala brick, Narine would grind up the spices recommended by her grandfather and pack them in lotus leaves. Ayurveda is known in India as the science of life. It relies on distinguishing an individual’s unique constitution and then prescribing food, spices, and herbs to create balance, both internally and externally. “Food is not about fashion or trends,” said Narine, whose father was a farmer and mother was a sugarcane cutter. “It is about survival.” Narine was 11 years old when her family immigrated to the United States, where they settled in the cultural melting pot of Queens. After early success as a marketing professional working in the oil industry, Narine had an epiphany that changed her life. It happened in Zanzibar, while she was climbing a clove tree. She put a clove into her mouth and was reminded of her grandfather. He used to always keep cloves in his shirt pocket to chew on for good breath and healthy teeth. As a child, she would push her face against his shirt and the heady scent of cloves would comfort her. “I should start a global spice company,” she suddenly thought, and Nirmala’s Kitchen was born. Narine combines her spice journeys around the world with humanitarian work supporting orphanages in Nepal, Cambodia, Laos, Venezuela, and Columbia through her Nirmala Global Village Foundation. She teaches the children about organic farming, entrepreneurship, and empowerment for a better future. A Change of Season These days Narine is busy with the fall garden harvest, which includes edible nasturtium flowers, a rare bitter melon from Southeast Asia, and a budding field of lavender. She’s thinking ahead to the Spice Suppers she will present to her guests this fall and winter, when she will match her global spice pantry to the abundance of Hudson Valley farmers’ fields and pastures. The suppers, and her cooking classes, are private affairs at her sprawling, modern ranch-style home for groups of up to 12. She’s also dreaming of which countries she will visit next, and what discoveries each will offer up so she can “bring home the exotic” and share it with all of us.
D7
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Some Like It Hot!
Cheesecake, That Is
By Sara Moulton Cheesecake is usually served cold. So brace yourself for something a little different. The first time I made this recipe, I pulled it out of the oven and set it on the counter to cool. The plan was to chill it overnight in the refrigerator. But my dear daughter—also known as The Girl with the Sweet Tooth—just couldn’t wait to dig in. So I handed her a spoon. And when she started babbling with delight, I tried it, too. It was ridiculously good. So good that I now recommend that you serve this cheesecake hot, right out of the oven, topped with a little vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream. That said, getting there requires some care. Be sure to buy plain pumpkin purée, which is sometimes labeled “solid pack pumpkin.” Avoid anything labeled “pumpkin pie filling” or “pumpkin pie mix,” both of which contain unwanted sugar and spices. You’re much better off adding those ingredients yourself. Also, don’t forget to drain the pumpkin purée. Losing the excess liquid from the purée improves the final texture and flavor of the cake. The cooking also requires some care. You’re going to cook the cake in a water bath, which helps to equalize the temperature in the oven and prevents overcooking.
Be sure to buy plain pumpkin purée, which is sometimes labeled ‘solid pack pumpkin.’
It doesn’t get any better than hot, fresh cheesecake right out of the oven.
But first the springform pan must be tightly wrapped with foil to prevent any water from leaking into the batter while the cake is baking. Finally, do your best to not overbake the cake, which will make it dry and crumbly. After the allotted cooking time, it should still be a little jiggly. Worried that the cake might be undercooked at that point? Don’t be. The residual heat will continue to cook it even after you pull it out of the oven. By the way, this cheesecake also is a knockout when it’s served the usual way—cold. If you decide to go this route, run a knife around the outside edge of the cake to separate it from the pan as soon as you remove the cake from the oven. This will allow the cake to remain intact as it shrinks in on itself, rather than cracking down the middle as it vainly attempts to unglue itself from the sides of the pan. If you do indeed decide to serve this cold, let it cool completely on a rack on the counter—it’ll take three to four hours—before wrapping it tightly and popping it in the refrigerator to chill overnight. When it’s time, run a knife around the edge of the pan again, carefully remove the side of the pan, then slice the cheesecake with a knife dipped in hot water (or use unflavored dental floss). And don’t forget the crowning glory—whipped cream or ice cream are the accessories of choice. Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.” From The Associated Press
SO FRESH! WE NOW DELIVER!
Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com
A little place with big flavors
• Authentic Thai Restaurant • Fast Delivery • Corporate Catering Available
Little Thai Kitchen • 231 E 53rd St. New York Tel. 212.644.5353 LTKNY.com
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
RECIPE ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
WARM PUMPKIN-BOURBON CHEESECAKE Prep & Baking Time: 2 hours (45 minutes active) Servings: 16 For the Crust • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the pan • 1 1/4 cups gingersnap cookie crumbs (made by pulsing about 25 cookies in a food processor until finely ground) • 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar • 1/4 teaspoon table salt
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
For the Filling • 15-ounce can pumpkin purée • 3 large eggs • 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar • 2 tablespoons heavy cream • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 1/4 cup bourbon, dark rum, or cognac • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • 1 tablespoon cornstarch • 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg • 1/2 teaspoon ground dry ginger • 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice • 1/2 teaspoon table salt • Three 8-ounce packages 1/3-less-fat cream cheese (or Neufchatel), room temperature • Vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream, to serve
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 375 F. Brush the inside of a 9-inch springform pan with melted butter. To make the crust, in a medium bowl, stir together the 6 tablespoons of butter, the gingersnap crumbs, brown sugar, and salt until combined well. Pour the crumb mixture into the pan and press it evenly over the bottom of the pan. Bake on the oven’s middle shelf for 10 minutes. Transfer to a cake rack and cool for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven to 350 F. Line a mesh colander with a clean kitchen towel. Mound the pumpkin purée into the towel and set over a medium bowl. Bring the ends of the towel up and gently squeeze to remove excess water (you should be able to squeeze out about 1/4 cup of liquid). Discard the liquid. Rinse and dry the bowl, then add the pumpkin, eggs, brown sugar, cream, vanilla, and bourbon. Mix together. Set aside. In a large bowl, stir together the granulated sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, and salt. Add the cream cheese, then use an electric mixer on high to beat until smooth,
Classic Margherita Pizza
about 3 minutes. Add the pumpkin mixture to the cream cheese mixture and beat on low, just until combined. Bring a large kettle of water to a boil. Use foil to wrap the bottom and sides of the springform pan. Pour the filling into the pan. Fold a kitchen towel so it fits evenly in a roasting pan just a bit larger than the springform pan. Set the springform pan on top of the towel in the roasting pan. Working quickly, pour enough boiling water into the larger pan to come halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Bake the cheesecake for 65 to 70 minutes, or until it is mostly set but still slightly jiggly at the center. Spoon some of the cheesecake onto each serving plate and top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream. Alternatively, if serving the cheesecake cold, transfer it to a rack, run a sharp knife around the edge and let it cool completely, about 4 hours, before covering with plastic wrap. Chill. To serve, cut into slices and top each slice with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream. Recipe by Sara Moulton
Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza
“the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...” ZAGAT USER
Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza
“The wood fired oven along with the homemade cheese just can’t be beat. ” PM
“Love it. Thin crust, very good choice of topping. Unbeatable Beer pitcher price.” CB
PIZZA LOVE Cut fresh herbs onto your amazing wood fired oven pizza. Made in just 5–7 minutes.
800 6th Ave (btwn 27th & 28th St) (212) 213-5042
WaldysPizza.com
D8
@EpochTaste
November 4–10, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
The Tartufata, with porcini mushrooms, truffle cream, mozzarella, and speck.
The Polpette, with Arpaia’s veal meatballs, ragout, mozzarella, and basil.
The Zucca, with pumpkin purée, guanciale, mozzarella, pine nuts, and rosemary. At Prova Pizzabar, the dough is left to rise for 36 hours.
Donna Arpaia Does Pizza That’s Both Roman and Neapolitan By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
A Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
t the recently opened Prova Pizzabar inside Grand Central Terminal, restaurateur and chef Donna Arpaia combines some of the best attributes of both Neapolitan- and Roman-style pizzas—and the results are worth a stop, even if you don’t need to catch a train. From Rome, she has taken rectangular pizza, offered by the slice. There’s no soupy center here, one of the trademarks of the Neapolitan pizza; instead the slices are soft and light on the inside, while the crust has a nice crunch that lasts. The toppings are where Neapolitan sensibilities come in. Rather than Roman-style potatoes and sausage, you’ll find some light and flavorful options. Don’t miss the Zucca, with pumpkin purée, guanciale, mozzarella, rosemary, and pine nuts—a sweet-savory ode to the season; or the Polpette, topped with ragout, mozzarella, basil, and Arpaia’s award-winning meatballs, which had me going back for more ($6 for a slice, $32 for a large pizza). Arpaia has recruited master pizzaiolo Giuseppe Manco, winner of the 2014 International Pizza Challenge in the Italian-style division. Manco, who is from Naples, Italy, pushes the limits of the hydration level of the dough, to around 87 percent. Regular New York City pizza, he explained, is about 40 percent, while Neapolitan pizza is about 60 to 63 percent. His main concern is digestibility. The more hydrated the dough, the more digestible it will be. He also takes his sweet time with the dough, letting it rise for a whopping 36 hours. Having the kitchen space required to make this happen, however, is not such a relaxed matter. “Space is the biggest issue,” Arpaia said. “We’re doing it here but we have [people] working
through the night now, literally.” If your taste buds demand a dish other than pizza, Arpaia, who used to spend childhood summers in Puglia and Naples, prides herself on offering some family classics—“recipes [that] are a snapshot of my childhood memories.” For example, there are tender meatballs, made according to her mother and grandmother’s recipe with hormone-free veal ($12 for a small portion; $18 for large); or the Eggplant Parmesan, a successful recreation of her great aunt’s recipe that took countless tries to perfect ($10). “My dad cried when he tried it— this is it,” she said. You can easily grab and go, but there is a comfortable sit-down dining room in the back that seats 45, in addition to a full-service bar. The wall is adorned with more references to family, with photos of Arpaia’s 5-year-old son, gleefully tucking into dishes with full abandon.
Prova Pizzabar
Grand Central Terminal, Lower Level Dining Concourse 89 E. 42nd St. 212-972-0385 ProvaPizzabar.com Hours Monday–Saturday 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–9 p.m.
Donna Arpaia.
Openings around town COURTESY OF GOOD STOCK
Good Stock Soup purveyor Good Stock is the latest to join the indoor food hall Urbanspace Vanderbilt, adjacent to Grand Central Terminal. New Orleans native Ben LeBlanc will offer, among other dishes, Fried Chicken & Andouille Gumbo, Roasted Tomato with Gruyere Crouton and Aged Balsamic, and Short Rib Chili. All soups come with freshly baked bread and a complimentary brownie bite. One percent of all sales go to the nonprofit Edible Schoolyard.
Urbanspace Vanderbilt 230 Park Ave. (between East 45th & 46th streets) 212-413-4300 GoodStockSoups.com
@FOHNYC
The Hall at Union Fare
212-594-4963
10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
The daytime fast-casual gastrohall, Union Fare, has opened The Hall at Union Fare as its casual evening concept, offering elevated bar food like BBQ Pulled Pork with coleslaw sambal; Ramen and Meatballs; and housemade hummus with freshly baked pita. There’s also a wide selection of beers, available by the glass or by the growler. Open Monday to Friday from 4:30 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m.
7 E. 17th St. (between Union Square West & Fifth Avenue), Union Square 212-633-6003 UnionFare.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff