SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 November 6–12, 2015
Desserts Worth the Effort on
D10 www.EpochTaste.com
Oiji
A Subtle Approach to Korean Cuisine
The magically thin, super crackly coating makes Oiji’s fried chicken irresistible.
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
B
utter isn’t something you usually find in Asian cooking, let alone soaked into a bowl of rice, the luscious grains waiting to be scooped up with slices of meltingly tender beef and succulent king oyster mushrooms. See Oiji on D2
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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Oiji’s Truffle Seafood Broth with Sizzling Crispy Rice is a riff on a Korean-Chinese stew made with nurungji, the layer of scorched rice that’s left at the bottom of the cooking pot.
Oiji Oiji continued from D1
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION
At Oiji, which opened in the East Village this past May, chefs Brian Kim and Tae Kyung Ku have reinvented classic Korean dishes they grew up eating, adding elements of surprise, but without veering into fusion territory. The vibe here is distinctly different from Koreatown joints. With 32 seats (plus 7 at the bar), Oiji fits into the East Village character of teeny but comfortable, with a laid-back atmosphere. The buttered rice, for example, is Chef Kim’s take on “jang-jo-rim” ($14), a braised beef dish commonly cooked in Korean households and served as a “banchan” (side dish) at Koreatown restaurants. When Kim was a child, his mother would cook jang-jo-rim whenever he was sick, adding in a stick of butter to make it extra comforting. Kim has brought that comfort to Oiji’s version, where cooked rice is first mixed with butter and chilled, then toasted with more French butter and beef braising liquid—a mix of beef stock, sugar, and soy sauce—just before serving. The rice is topped with some mellow pickled radishes and that luscious beef. The end result is so intensely rich you feel like you could immediately drift off into a satisfied sleep (and perhaps dream of eating more buttered rice). Before coming to the United States, both Kim and Ku had worked office jobs in South Korea, sustaining their culinary interests in their free time. Kim traveled around the world, seeking out delicious fare, while Ku helped operate his family’s 60-year-old restaurant in Seoul. Then both men decided to take the leap and study at the Culinary Institute of America, where they met as roommates five years ago. They dreamed of opening their own restaurant that would update Korean cuisine to make it more approachable to New Yorkers, while preserving traditional flavors.
A Subtle Approach to Korean Cuisine
Oiji
119 First Ave. 646-767-9050 oijinyc.com Hours Tuesday–Thursday 6 p.m.–11 p.m. Friday–Saturday 6 p.m.–midnight Sunday 5 p.m.–10 p.m.
The dream team: Chef Brian Kim (L) is versed in visual presentation, while chef Tae Kyung Ku’s strength lies in melding different flavors.
“Brian is more artistic and he’s good with the visual presentation. I focus on the harmony of flavors. So both our strengths work together,” Ku said. After graduation, Kim and Ku worked at Bouley and Gramercy Tavern, respectively, before they began making plans for their own restaurant. They spent two years developing their recipes and perfecting the dishes on Oiji’s concise menu. The chefs eventually opted for a small plates format, to give diners the opportunity to sample a variety at each meal, said restaurant General Manager Maximilian Soh. The chefs’ French training shows in dishes like the Truffle Seafood Broth with Sizzling Crispy Rice ($20). It’s their riff on a KoreanChinese seafood stew, “haemul (seafood) nurungji tang.” “Nurungji” refers to the layer of scorched rice that is usually left at the bottom of the cooking pot after boiling. Here, the chefs add Italian black truffle to the spicy broth to give it body, then pour it over their version of nurungji—squares of crispy rice that are dehydrated then fried—and a medley of sweet, briny mussels, squid, and shrimp. All those ingredients soak up the silky-smooth broth. The Korean flavors are there, but muted. With the Pine Leaves Smoked Mackerel ($14), too, the chefs transform the fish from the typical grilled treatment in Korean cuisine. Instead, they cold smoke the fish under a bed of wood chips and pine needles, and then broil it before serving. It’s like mackerel and smoking were made for each other; the fish gains a roasted flavor that lingers long after you’ve swallowed, enveloped in a faint citrus fragrance from the black pines. The fish is served with a yuzu-soysauce to enhance the flavor. And in their Cold Buckwheat Noodles with Preserved Spring Ramps ($14), they incorporate into the broth a batch of local ramps they stored since last spring using the Korean pickling method “jangajji.” The ramps were pickled
Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Jang-jo-rim, a braised beef dish commonly cooked in Korean households, and updated with a bed of buttered rice.
Cold Buckwheat Noodles with Preserved Spring Ramps, featuring local ramps the chefs have pickled for more than a year.
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November 6–12, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
Morton’s World Trade Center
At Oiji, Korean flavors are more subtle, the dishes at times Zen-like in their purity and at times indulgent. for more than a year in a mixture of soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar, lending an acutely tangy bite to the vegetable’s clean, quasi-leek, quasigarlic flavor. There’s a Zen-like purity to the dish that’s rarely found in the intensely seasoned foods of today. On the more indulgent side, there was the Fried Chicken with Spicy Soy Vinaigrette ($15), featuring a thin, katsu-like crackly batter. The chicken isn’t as heavily flavored as your usual Korean fried chicken, but again, the departure here is a good thing. Oiji’s version doesn’t overwhelm you, instead saving the intense seasoning for the dipping sauce. The batter’s definitive crunch seals the deal, while thin slices of fresh leeks served underneath the chicken give it extra brightness. For dessert, the honey butter chips ($6) are not to be missed. Indeed, the combination of honey, butter, and cayenne pepper is dangerous. Soh explained that the snack generated a nationwide food craze when it was first introduced in Korea, leading to shortages and a chips black market. Kim and Ku knew they wanted to make their own version for Oiji’s opening party, and the trendy treat soon found its way onto the menu. As you chew on the sticky yet crispy chips, the flavor progresses from savory to sweet to rich. They make for a novel ending to the meal. For drinks, Oiji also has a strong menu of soju cocktails, like the Genie Dream of Summer ($15), with gin, kaffir-lime-infused soju, lime juice, simple syrup, and egg whites; and the Mother Flower ($15), with hibiscus-infused soju, Génépi, and Cocchi Americano, served on the rocks in a glass rinsed with mescal and absinthe. But Kim and Ku aren’t satisfied just yet. They’re hoping to add some winter dishes, expand into a late night bar menu, and even serve brunch. Whatever the future holds, the chefs’ unique approach will keep people coming back for more.
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com
The drinks menu includes soju cocktails, infused with ingredients like kaffir lime, hibiscus, and blood orange.
Honey-butter-cayenne chips likes these sparked a black market in Korea!
A Culinary Duet
of worldy flavors
Inspired cuisines from across the globe meet in Greenwich Village The vibe at Oiji suits its East Village location: laid-back and comfortable.
37 Barrow Street, New York, (212) 255 5416 ' DuetNY.com
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November 6–12, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF NEW YORK WINE EVENTS
BROOKLYN BOUNTY: A HISTORICAL FEAST The Brooklyn Historical Society has a prized possession in its collection: a handwritten recipe book from the 19th century. For its fifth annual fundraiser, the society will have chefs cook dishes from the book of traditional Dutch dishes, while giving them a modern twist. The event also promises music and a live auction.
stuff to eat and drink around town
‘THE MISSION CHINESE FOOD COOKBOOK’
Revelers at the Brooklyn Crush Festival in May.
COURTESY OF BROOKLYN HISTORICAL SOCIETY
James Beard Award-winning chef Danny Bowien of Mission Chinese Food has made a name from his inventive spins on classic Chinese dishes. Now Bowien has published a cookbook, “The Mission Chinese Food Cookbook,” featuring recipes for his signature American-Chinese mashups. The chef will first host a cookbook launch party, where he will discuss the book with chef and TV host Anthony Bourdain and Lucky Peach editorin-chief Chris Ying. Attendees get a signed copy of the book and a meal from Mission Chinese Food, along with two drinks. Later in the week, Bowien will appear at the 92Y to talk about the restaurant’s beginnings in San Francisco and his experience as a restaurateur, with Lucky Peach co-founder and editor Peter Meehan.
Tuesday, Nov. 10, 7 p.m.–10 p.m. 26 Bridge 26 Bridge St., Brooklyn Tickets: $200 bit.ly/1Nfdor4
BROOKLYN CRUSH WINE AND ARTISANAL FOOD FESTIVAL If you’re a true wine connoisseur, New York Wine Events has the affair for you. At the Brooklyn Crush festival, you can sample over 200 different wines, while nibbling on artisanal foods made in Brooklyn. Jazz band The Blue Vipers of Brooklyn will entertain the crowd with live music. If you’re feeling extra hungry, you can order full-portion meals from Filipino restaurant Manila Social Club, Latin American fusion tapas restaurant Miti Miti Taperia, sandwich shop Fedoroff’s Roast Pork, and Italian charcuterie shop Ends Meat.
Drinks to be served at the Brooklyn Bounty event. COURTESY OF BROOKLYN HISTORICAL SOCIETY
Launch Party With Anthony Bourdain Monday, Nov. 9 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. The Powerhouse Arena 37 Main St., Brooklyn Tickets: $70 powerhousearena.com In Conversation With Lucky Peach Friday, Nov. 13 7 p.m. 92Y 1395 Lexington Ave. Tickets: $32 92y.org/event/mission-chinese-food
Saturday, Nov. 14 Afternoon session: 3 p.m.–6 p.m. Evening session: 8 p.m.–11 p.m. Industry City: Building 4 34 35th St., Brooklyn Tickets: $75 newyorkwineevents.com
Food to be served at the Brooklyn Bounty event.
COURTESY OF ECCO SAHADEV POUDEL
MOMO CRAWL Momos are hearty dumplings commonly eaten in Himalayan countries, including Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan. For the fourth year, food event organizer Jeff Orlick is hosting the Momo Crawl, a one-day tour of Himalayan restaurants in Jackson Heights, Queens, home to the largest Tibetan and Nepalese community in the city. Momos will cost only $1 each at participating restaurants. In the evening, eaters will get to vote on their favorite momo, and the winner will be awarded the Momo Trophy.
Chilled Egg Custard with Sea Urchin and Salmon Roe, from Danny Bowien’s cookbook.
Saturday, Nov. 14 2 p.m.–5 p.m. Diversity Plaza 37th Road & 73rd Street, Queens momocrawl.com
Enjoying momos at last year’s Momo Crawl.
COURTESY OF THE LAMBS CLUB
COURTESY OF MURRAY’S CHEESE BAR
NAPA VALLEY SOMMS AND SLIDERS Burgers and wine is the new ultimate pairing. Eighteen wineries from the Napa Valley have teamed up with New York restaurants to offer unique burger-and-wine combinations. Look for burgers from restaurants like 5 Napkin Burger, The Cecil, The Lambs Club, and The Gander. Attendees can also sample more than 40 different wines. All proceeds will go to Citymeals-on-Wheels, an organization that delivers meals to the homebound elderly.
T T g ha iv n in k s g
RE TO AT A YOU FA R BU F LO AM US ILY
Tuesday, Nov. 10 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. The Bowery Hotel 335 Bowery Tickets: $65 thechefsconnection.com/event/napa-valleysomms-sliders
A.J. Ojeda-Pons, sommelier at The Lambs Club.
Goat Burger from Murray’s Cheese Bar.
BOOK YOUR 4-COURSE MEAL
and be entered to win a 10-person wine tasting at Nerai! Book now at
epochpromo.com
55 East 54th Street | New York | (212) 759-5554 www.nerainyc.com
Arrive in style with Uber to Nerai Thanksgiving New users get a free ride (up to $25) to or from Nerai, use code: NERAI25 Existing users can try uberPOOL and get $20 off your first uberPOOL trip, use code: NERAI20
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November 6–12, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com NATHALIE ZARO
VILLAGE VOICE HOLIDAY SPIRITS CRUISE Celebrate the holiday season early with a cocktail cruise around Manhattan. For the third year, the Village Voice newspaper will offer spirits from more than 25 distilleries and wineries, from local companies like Atsby Vermouth, Breuckelen Distilling, Queens Courage Gin, and Brooklyn Winery, to imported brands like Scorpion Mezcal. The cruise will also include a buffet dinner. A portion of the proceeds will go to Lifebeat, an organization that educates youth on HIV/AIDS prevention.
NERAI CHARITY DINNER Upscale Greek restaurant Nerai is hosting a charity dinner to benefit Floga, an organization that helps support children diagnosed with cancer in Greece. The dinner will feature a five-course tasting menu, imported Greek wines, and live music. There will also be a charity raffle with prizes, like a three-day trip to the Bahamas and a 60-inch flat screen TV. Monday, Nov. 16 6 p.m.–10 p.m. Nerai 55 E. 54th St. $600 table for two, $1,200 table for four nerainyc.com
Thursday, Nov. 19 6 p.m.–10 p.m. The Hornblower Infinity cruise ship Pier 40 at West Houston Street Tickets: $55 general admission, $70 VIP villagevoice.com/holidayspirits
The Hornblower Infinity cruise ship.
COURTESY OF LONG ISLAND RESTAURANT WEEK
COURTESY OF LONG ISLAND RESTAURANT WEEK
LONG ISLAND RESTAURANT WEEK If you’re looking for a nice weekend getaway from the city, consider making it out to Long Island for Long Island Restaurant Week, when more than 200 restaurants across Long Island will be offering a three-course prix fixe dinner for $27.95. Participating restaurants range from Brasserie Americana in Great Neck, which will serve classic French entrees like Beef Bourguignon and Chicken Cordon Bleu; to the Italian small plates joint, Spuntino Wine Bar in Westbury; and new American restaurant The Living Room, in East Hampton, which will serve entrees like Swedish meatballs and red wine-marinated octopus. Through Sunday, Nov. 8 Various locations $27.95 dinner longislandrestaurantweek.com
Mirabelle Tavern in Stony Brook, Long Island.
COURTESY OF MICHAEL FERRARO
DINNER WITH THREE CHEFS
Chicken tacos from Besito.
In the name of fighting pancreatic cancer, three top chefs are joining hands to cook an intimate dinner. Chef Michael Ferraro, of Delicatessen on the Lower East Side, lost his mother to the disease two years ago. He, along with chef Julian Medina of Mexican bistro Toloache, and pastry chef François Payard of FP Patisserie, will serve a four-course dinner featuring dishes inspired by their family recipes. All proceeds will go to Pancreatic Cancer Action Network. Tuesday, Nov. 17, 7:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Delicatessen 54 Prince St. Tickets: $125 eventbrite.com (search: Four Courses Three Chefs)
SAVOR THE BRONX RESTAURANT WEEK Explore the culinary scene in the city’s underdog borough, during the Fifth Annual Savor the Bronx Restaurant Week. Over 40 restaurants are participating, from Italian eateries in the Little Italy neighborhood on Arthur Ave., to Latin American joints like Mamajuana Cafe, Cabo, and Don Coqui on City Island, off the eastern coast of the borough. The event is organized by the Bronx Tourism Council to showcase the borough’s best dining destinations. Lunch prix fixe menu is $16.41, while dinner is $20.15. Some restaurants will also offer a 15 percent discount on checks above $20. Through Friday, Nov. 13 Various locations $16.41 lunch, $20.15 dinner ilovethebronx.com
Michael Ferraro, executive chef at Delicatessen.
COURTESY OF BRONX BOROUGH PRESIDENT’S OFFICE COURTESY OF FRANCOIS PAYARD
COURTESY OF JULIAN MEDINA
Pizza from Patricia’s in Morris Park, the Bronx.
Julian Medina, chef-owner at Toloache.
Pastry chef François Payard.
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
IT IS OUR DELIGHT TO SERVE YOU SIMPLE, ELEGANT, BEAUTIFUL, JAPANESE MASTERWORKS TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
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November 6–12, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com tako: “octopus” and yaki: “fried”/ “cooked” A true Japanese comfort food!
Set
The Takoyaki MOCU-MOCU
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 ! Mocu-Mocu.com
It takes eight minutes of non-stop flipping and wrist flicking to turn the batter into these puffy balls.
Openings around town KATIE BURTON
Rosa Mexicano Thirty years after the original location opened in Manhattan, Rosa Mexicano has opened a new location downtown on Murray Street. The 100-seat restaurant features a dining room upstairs and a bar downstairs, Masa y Agave, inspired by the cantinas of Guadalajara. Masa y Agave features a collection of 400 agave spirits. Altogether 17 varietals of agave are represented. Fresh masa is ground in-house and used for antojitoas (literally little cravings) such as sopes, empanadas, and tamales. Dishes include Camarones Capeados Tacos with maseca cornmeal-dusted shrimp, kale, chipotle aioli, and pickled red onion; and Tablones, slow-braised, bone-in short ribs with smoky mestizo sauce, fresh pico de gallo, and handmade corn tortillas. Rosa Mexicano is open daily for lunch and dinner. Masa y Agave is open Monday—Saturday 4 p.m.–midnight.
Margaritas and salts.
KATIE BURTON
NOAH FECKS
41 Murray St. (between Church & West Broadway) 212-849-2885 rosamexicano.com
Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00
Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class
W
hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course
Sopes de Tinga de Res.
(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
Rosa Mexicano's new location in Tribeca.
$45/per person
Awabi Shabu-shabu
tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person
Sake and Wine
Ask about our sake tastings.
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
Arepa Factory Monica Muzzo, a native of Venuezela, has opened Arepa Factory in Alphabet City, where arepas are filled to order right before customers’ eyes. Four types of arepas (a corn flatbread) are all made fresh daily: traditional corn flour, spinach, oatmeal, and chia-flaxseed. Examples are The Pabellon (with a filling of shredded beef, black beans, sweet plantains, and Guayanés cheese), La Española (chorizo and manchego
cheese), and Del Campo (a vegan option with avocado, black beans, tomatoes, and sweet plantains). As with traditional arepas, these are also gluten-free. You’ll also find other Venezuelan items such as cachapas (a type of pancake made from fresh corn and drizzled with nata cream) and tequeños, fried white cheese wrapped in pastry. Open daily for lunch and dinner.
147 Avenue A 646-490-6828 arepafactory.com
COURTESY OF AREPA FACTORY
STEAK OREGANATA Makes 2 to 4 servings There’s nothing wrong with a plain steak. But this is Italianstyle steak, topped with garlicky bread crumbs seasoned with some oregano. After all, oreganata means “flavored with oregano.” You can serve one steak per person, or split the slices up among four people, making this a good dish to serve to kids or people with not-so-big appetites. 1 Two 12-to-14-ounce sirloin steaks, cut 1 inch thick 1 Olive oil, for coating and drizzling 1 1 teaspoon salt 1 ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 ¾ cup seasoned bread crumbs, divided 1 Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish 1. Let the steaks stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Brush on both sides with the oil and season with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper.
2. Position a broiler rack 6 inches from the source of heat and preheat the oven well. Lightly oil the broiler rack. Broil the steaks until the tops of the steaks are nicely browned, about 5 minutes. Turn the steaks and broil to brown the other side and the steaks feel slightly resilient when pressed, 4 to 5 minutes more for medium-rare. Transfer to a carving board and let stand for 3 to 5 minutes. 3. Using a sharp knife, cut the steak across the grain on a slight diagonal into ½-inch-thich slices. Push the slices of each steak back together to resemble the original cut. Return to the broiler rack. Top each steak with an equal layer bread crumbs and lightly drizzle with olive oil.
Arepa Factory offers a modern spin on traditional Venezuelan dishes.
COURTESY OF 5TH & MAD
5th & MAD Gastropub 5th & MAD opened on Nov. 5, with executive chef Chase Sanders at the helm. Signature dishes include Chef’s Beer-Braised Short Rib Sliders and Chicken Under a Brick. You can also find cocktails such as Get Mad (lime juice, Russian Standard vodka, Ginger Beer) and Glengarry Island (Rosemary syrup, lime juice, pear purée, Johnny Walker Red). Open daily for lunch and dinner.
4. Return to the broiler and broil until the topping is browned, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the slices to dinner plates and serve. This recipe can be found on page 47 of my new cookbook “Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook.”
7 E. 36th St. (between Fifth & Madison avenues) 212-725-2353
Glengarry Island.
Num Pang Recipe from
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant. 236 W. 56th St. 212-247-3491 www.patsys.com
A big, warm, beautiful Italian cookbook with full color throughout, Patsy’s Italian Family Cookbook is a great book for those who know the restaurant and love classic Italian dishes.
✁
Our only location
Num Pang has recently opened its seventh location, in the Financial District. Exclusive to the location is the newest sandwich on the menu, the Hoisin BBQ Pulled Turkey Pang, a Thanksgiving-inspired sandwich with slow-roasted turkey dressed with a housemade spicy hoisin BBQ sauce, and topped with ginger-peppercorn pickled cranberries, chili mayo, cucumber,
cilantro, and pickled carrots. Open daily for lunch and dinner. A second Financial District location is set to open later this year at 200 Water Street.
75 Broad St. (at South Williams) 646-964-4150 numpangnyc.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
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You Won’t Miss the Meat or Bread in This Veg-Rich Oven Hash By Melissa d’Arabian Heading into crisper weather, I start to crave the holiday classics that beg to be made this time of year. One of my favorites is stuďŹƒng (technically “dressingâ€? since I haven’t stued it in the turkey ever since Alton Brown talked me out of it over a decade ago when I read his recipe for roasted turkey). Seasoned cubes of dried bread sautĂŠed with celery, onion, herbs, and butter, then baked up to crispy-outside-softinside perfection? Yes, please! Except ... my extended family has three vegetarians and my daughter is gluten-free. So my challenge was how to make a dish that scratches the stuďŹƒng itch for them without making it seem like the ugly duckling of the Thanksgiving
table. The solution ended up being a roasted vegetable medley that I promise will be the mostrequested recipe of your holiday. I start with mix of roasted vegetables for a caramelized sweetness. Then I add meaty mushrooms sautÊed in garlic and the trifecta of holiday cooking herbs: rosemary, sage and thyme. A Granny Smith apple cut into tiny cubes brings just enough acid for depth, while a surprise little hero tucked into the recipe—toasted walnuts—adds texture.
Natural
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, “Supermarket Healthy.� MelissadArabian.net
“Best Organic Soy Sauce� -Food and Wine Magazine
From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
RECIPE
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
VEGGIE OVEN HASH Prep & Cooking Time: 40 minutes Serves: 8 • 2 1/2 cups (3/4 pound) cubed butternut squash (1-inch cubes) • Olive oil • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 2 cups (1/3 pound) small cauliflower florets • 2 cups (1/3 pound) small broccoli florets • 1 medium yellow onion, chopped • 2 stalks celery, chopped • 4 cloves garlic, minced • 8 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced (cut in half if slices are larger than bite-sized) • 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme • 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary • 1 tablespoon minced fresh sage • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • 1/2 cup toasted walnuts, roughly chopped
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Line two rimmed baking sheets with kitchen parchment or foil. Mound the squash on one of the prepared baking sheets then drizzle with about 1 teaspoon of oil. Toss to coat, and then season with salt and pepper. Arrange in an even layer, then roast until tender, 30 to 35 minutes, turning once or twice. While the squash is roasting, mound the
cauliflower and broccoli on the second sheet. Drizzle them with 2 teaspoons of oil, season with salt and pepper, then arrange in an even layer and roast for 25 minutes, turning halfway through, or until the cauliflower is golden. All of the vegetables should finish roasting around the same time. Set aside to cool. Meanwhile, in a large sautĂŠ pan over medium, heat 1 tablespoon of oil. Add the onion and celery and cook until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and mushrooms, then sautĂŠ until the mushrooms are starting to get tender, about 7 minutes. Add the apple, thyme, rosemary, and sage, then cook another 5 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender (but not floppy). Stir in the lemon juice, remove from the heat and transfer to a large bowl.
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores.
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thai
the modern
Add the slightly cooled roasted vegetables and the toasted walnuts. Stir and adjust seasoning if needed.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Per serving: 140 calories; 80 calories from fat (57 percent of total calories); 8 g fat (1 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 150 mg sodium; 16 g carbohydrate; 4 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 4 g protein.
experience THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY!
EMILY STERNE PHOTOGRAPHY
4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE
Wan Ja Shan organic soy sauce is handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley, N.Y.
FREE DELIVERY
Transforming Dishes With Soy LEMON BROCCOLINI–SHIITAKE SAUTE WITH GARLIC CHIPS Serves: 4 • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon Wan Ja Shan low-sodium organic soy sauce • 2 bunches broccolini, broken into 2-inch pieces • 1/3 cup thinly sliced garlic • 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil • 2 cups sliced shiitakes • 1/2 teaspoon Korean chili flakes (or red chili) • 1/3 cup chopped preserved lemon
DIRECTIONS In a stockpot with 1 quart of water, add the soy sauce and bring to a boil. Prepare an ice bath. Boil the broccolini until tender crisp (about 3 minutes), then shock in the ice bath. In the same pot, dry out and add the extra virgin olive oil on medium-high heat. Add the garlic and keep stirring until golden brown. Drain the garlic leaving a little oil and sautĂŠ the shiitakes, season and add chili flake. Return garlic to the stockpot with the chili flakes, the preserved lemon, and blanched broccolini. Heat through, check for seasoning, and serve. Recipe courtesy of Ming Tsai
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Ready for Your
Thanksgiving Turkey 101?
We’ve Got Your Back By Michele Kayal WYSOKINISKI/ISTOCK
At the end of the day, Thanksgiving is all about the bird. And getting it right—delivering a succulent, perfectly browned, magazine-worthy specimen—presents the holiday’s biggest challenge. To unlock the secrets of roasting a great bird, we asked some of the country’s top chefs and food experts the tough questions: To brine or not to brine? High-heat or slow roast? Basted or not? Then we culled their answers to produce our recipe for the ultimate bird, as well as offer you some take-them-or-leave-them weird and wonderful tips for your own perfect turkey.
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Look for the happiest (free-range) turkeys—they just taste better.
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The Roast To promote a crisp, brown skin, many chefs recommend cranking the oven to 425 F during the first or last 30 to 45 minutes of cooking. Just be sure to protect the delicate breast meat. If using high heat at the beginning, start with the bird breast-side down, Lancaster said. After 45 minutes, turn the turkey over and continue roasting at 325 F. If you brown at the end, cook the bird breastside up at 325 F, DeShantz said, but tent the breast with foil. Remove the foil for the last hour of cooking, and then increase the heat to 425 F for the last 30 minutes. The Temperature Ignore the pop-up thermometers that come with some turkeys. Instead, use a good instantread thermometer and test the temperature early and often. Our chefs generally vote to let breast meat reach somewhere between 160 F and 165 F, and to take dark meat to around 180 F. But Harold McGee, food scientist and author of “On Food and Cooking,” said to pull the bird out of the oven when the breast hits 150 degrees and the thigh registers 160 degrees.
OC ST
“Those standard higher temperatures give you standard dry turkey meat,” McGee said. “Lower temperatures mean juicier meat.” And what’s his trick for protecting the breast? “Take the bird out of the fridge a few hours in advance of cooking,” he said. “Let the legs warm up, but cover the breast with a bag of crushed ice.” Seriously. Of course, all of these tips call for cooking the turkey to below the 165 F that is considered safe. That’s because roasted meats of all persuasions continue to rise in temperature after they are removed from the oven. And that’s why if you leave it in the oven until it reaches 165 F you’ll end up with an overcooked turkey. The Rest Regardless of how you cook the turkey, our experts said to make sure you let it sit, undisturbed, on a cutting board or platter for at least 30 minutes before carving. This allows the bird to finish cooking more gently and reabsorb all of its juices, producing moist meat. To prevent it from cooling, cover the turkey with foil, and then layer several kitchen or bath towels over that. Borderline Heretical Advice Dismember the bird. That’s right. DeShantz recommends butchering the turkey raw and cooking its parts separately. “Separating the dark meat from the white and cooking them separately is one of the best ways to nail the temperature difference between properly cooked thighs and breasts,” he said via email. “This technique results in better cooking, better seasoning, easier carving and better gravy.” What would Norman Rockwell said? From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
The Brine Dry brine, wet brine, it doesn’t matter, our experts said, just brine that bird. The typical wet brine submerges the turkey in water containing salt, sugar, and aromatics such as sage, rosemary, thyme, and black peppercorns. Richard DeShantz, executive chef at Pittsburgh hot spots Meat & Potatoes and Butcher and the Rye, gives his birds a subtle sweetness with a 50-50 mix of apple cider and water. Chef Michael Solomonov, who just released the first cookbook from his Philadelphia restaurant Zahav, creates a Mediterranean profile with allspice, dill seed, and black cardamom. Point being—feel free to play with the seasonings. Wet-brined birds must be patted down, then air-dried for several hours after brining before roasting them. To avoid the mess, chef Vivan Howard of Chef and the Farmer in Kinston, N.C., suggests ditching the water and using a dry brine—a rub of salt, sugar, and dried herbs— a day or two before cooking. Dry-brined birds also will have a crispier skin, she said.
MILOSLUZ/ISTOCK
The Bird Let’s start at the beginning: A 12- to 14-pound turkey gives you the best chance of cooking success. Anything larger is difficult. That’s because the white and dark meat need to be cooked to different temperatures, and the bigger the bird the more difficult it is to nail that. If you need more than 14 pounds of turkey, our experts suggest roasting two. Most of our chefs favor fresh, free-range turkeys. “An animal that isn’t caged and is allowed to live a freer life will be a happier animal,” said Brad Deboy, chef de cuisine at Washington’s Blue Duck Tavern. “Happier animals will always taste better.” But if you can’t afford or find a fresh, free-range turkey, don’t despair. “In our testing, we found that fresh didn’t always equal better,” America’s Test Kitchen editor Bridget Lancaster said via email. Frozen turkeys, Lancaster said, may not be subject to the temperature fluctuations that sometimes afflict fresh birds during transit.
The Baste Basting is a given, our experts said, but some chefs take it to the extreme. Howard’s secret: soak a triple-layered sheet of cheesecloth in melted butter and drape it over the breast of your roasting turkey. “The cheesecloth slowly releases the butter onto the bird,” she said. “That’s my thing that I do.” Not ready to wrap your bird like that? Use the juices that collect in the pan and baste the turkey every 20 to 30 minutes, but no more. Opening the oven to baste more often than that will release all the heat from the oven and can significantly delay roasting times.
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RECIPE PRO TIP TURKEY Ask a dozen professionals for the best way to roast a Thanksgiving turkey and you’ll get a dozen different ways. So we took the suggestions we liked best and combined them into one recipe that is simple, foolproof, and produces a delicious and beautiful bird. Looking for a classic recipe that delivers a serious payoff? This is it. WESTLIGHT/ISTOCK
Prep & Cooking Time: Overnight, plus 3 1/2 hours Makes: One 12- to 14-pound turkey • • • • • • • •
1/2 cup kosher salt 2 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon ground black pepper 12- to 14-pound turkey 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature 3 sprigs fresh rosemary 3 sprigs fresh sage 6 sprigs fresh thyme
DIRECTIONS
Rinse off the turkey, inside and out, then thoroughly dry with paper towels. Rub the butter under the skin of the turkey. Fit a roasting rack into the roasting pan and mist it with cooking spray. Set the turkey, breast side down, on the rack. Stuff the rosemary, sage, and thyme into the cavity. Roast for 45 minutes.
Baste the turkey with any drippings that collect in the pan every 20 to 30 minutes, or until the turkey is cooked to 160 F at the breast and 175 F at the thigh, about 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the turkey to a carving board or serving platter and cover first with a layer of foil, then with several layers of clean kitchen towels. Allow the turkey to rest for 30 minutes before carving and serving. If desired, use the drippings to make pan gravy.
Heat the oven to 425 F.
Alison Ladman is a recipe developer for The Associated Press.
Per serving: 360 calories; 120 calories from fat (33 percent of total calories); 13 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 215 mg cholesterol; 490 mg sodium; 0 g carbohydrate; 0 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 56 g protein.
Don’t Settle for Dull Gravy—Learn How to Crank the Flavor
Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.” From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
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Using 2 pairs of sturdy tongs (or one pair of tongs and a long-handled spoon inserted into the cavity), or washable pot holders, flip the turkey over so that the bird is breast side up. Return to the oven and continue cooking.
NUTRITION INFORMATION
Just because Thanksgiving mostly is about tradition doesn’t mean that we aren’t open to going off script when it comes to side dishes and exactly how to cook the big bird. But the gravy? It’s where innovation goes to die! Generally, we’re content to just pour some store-bought chicken broth, along with a little butter and flour, into the pan in which the turkey was roasted, and then call it a day. In truth, you can make a much more exciting gravy with just a little more work. We were taught in cooking school that your sauce will only be as good as the liquid you add to it. In the case of turkey gravy, that would be broth. What can be done to amp up its flavor? To start, you want to brown the turkey parts that have been packed inside the bird—the neck and the giblets (that is, the heart and the gizzards). Then add the bird’s wings—which nobody eats anyway—but skip the liver, which will make the stock bitter. Browning these parts, in the company of some carrots and onions, develops complex flavors. This is called the Maillard reaction. It’s what happens when amino acids combined with the sugars found in meat and many vegetables are heated above 300 F. Concentrated juices from these ingredients will collect in the bottom of the pan as you brown them, giving your stock a deeper flavor. You may be surprised to also find tomato paste among this recipe’s ingredients, but tomatoes happen to be a terrific source of umami, the taste usually described as “meaty.” By the way, don’t despair if your turkey is missing the happy little package of giblets and neck bone usually found inside the cavity; you’ll still have the turkey wings. Just cut them off and supplement with some chicken wings. Finally, I recommend making the stock a day or two in advance, so the big day itself is a little less stressful..
Seriously Addicting
Remove the turkey from the oven and lower the temperature to 325 F.
In a small bowl, combine the salt, sugar, and black pepper. Remove the neck and giblets from the turkey cavity. Use paper towels to pat the turkey dry, inside and out. Rub the salt mixture all over the turkey skin and inside the cavity. Place in a roasting pan and refrigerate, uncovered, for 8 hours or overnight.
By Sara Moulton
Serious Hot Pot
RECIPE BIGGER AND BETTER TURKEY GRAVY Prep & Cooking Time: 4 hours 15 minutes (35 minutes active) Makes: 5 cups • The neck, wings, and giblets (about 8-ounces total) from an 18- to 24-pound turkey • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil • 1 medium yellow onion, medium chopped • 1 medium carrot, medium chopped • 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled • 1 tablespoon tomato paste • 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth • 1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped • 2 sprigs fresh thyme • 1 bay leaf • The drippings, 1/2 cup fat and pan juices from an 18- to 24-pound roasted turkey • Butter, melted (if there is not enough fat from the roast to make the gravy) • 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons instant flour (such as Wondra) • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS Carefully chop the neck and wings into 1-inch pieces and pat them and the giblets dry. In a large skillet over medium-high, heat the oil. Add the turkey pieces and giblets, reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the onion, carrot and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Transfer the mixture to a medium saucepan and add 1 cup of water to the skillet. Deglaze the pan over high heat, scraping up the brown bits with a spatula, until all the bits have been dissolved. Pour the mixture over the turkey parts in the saucepan. Add the chicken broth and 2 cups water to the saucepan. Bring the liquid to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook, skimming the scum that rises to the surface with a skimmer or slotted spoon, until there is no more scum, 15 to 20 minutes. Add the celery, thyme and bay leaf, and then simmer gently for 2 hours. Strain the stock through a colander, pressing hard on the solids. Discard the solids and measure the stock; you should have 4 cups. If you have more, return the liquid to the saucepan and simmer until it is reduced to 4 cups. If you have less, add water to the stock
to make 4 cups. Cool, cover and chill until it is time to make the gravy. When the turkey is cooked and resting on a platter, pour all the liquid in the roasting pan into a fat separator or large glass measuring cup. Pour or skim off the fat from the cup and reserve it; leave the cooking juices in the fat separator. You will need 1/2 cup of the fat for the gravy; if you don’t have 1/2 cup, supplement with melted butter. Set the roasting pan on top of 2 burners set over medium-low. Add the fat, followed by the flour. Whisk the mixture, preferably using a flat whisk, for 5 minutes. Add the reserved cooking juices from the roasting pan and twothirds of the turkey stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking. If the gravy needs thinning, add more of the turkey stock and the juices that accumulated on the platter where the turkey has been resting. Reduce the heat to a simmer and simmer for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
NUTRITION INFORMATION 1/4 cup: 70 calories; 50 calories from fat (71 percent of total calories); 6 g fat (1.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 5 mg cholesterol; 170 mg sodium; 4 g carbohydrate; 0 g fiber; 1 g sugar; 1 g protein. Mushroom Gravy Proceed with the master recipe up to the point of adding the fat to the roasting pan. Add half the fat and 1/3 cup minced shallots and cook over medium heat, stirring, for 3 minutes. Add 8 ounces of assorted sliced mushrooms and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are golden, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining fat and the flour and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add 1/3 cup dry sherry, Madeira, or tawny port, or 1/2 cup red wine, (this is optional; you can leave the alcohol out) along with the reserved cooking juices and two-thirds of the turkey stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking. If the gravy needs thinning, add more of the turkey stock and the juices that accumulated on the platter where the turkey has been resting. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Mustard-Herb Gravy Proceed with the master recipe up through the point of cooking the fat and flour for 5 minutes. Add 1/2 cup of dry white wine (this is optional; you can leave the alcohol out) along with the reserved cooking juices and twothirds of the turkey stock. Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking. If the gravy needs thinning, add more of the turkey stock and the juices that accumulated on the platter where the turkey has been resting. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Whisk in 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard and 2 to 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil, tarragon or sage. Season with salt and pepper.
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FLAVORFUL DESSERTS for the
Confident Baker By Orysia McCabe | Epoch Times Staff
Asian Restaurant Listings UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
THAI
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CHINESE
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SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
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Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
KOREATOWN
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Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
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BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
Baking, as they say, is an exacting science— there is a very delicate balance at play among the ingredients. If you use extra large eggs as opposed to large, it could greatly affect the consistency and the texture of whatever you’re making. If your baking powder is past expiry, your cake won’t rise. And don’t use salted butter in place of unsalted, or you won’t be able to control the salt content. So the baker needs to pay careful attention. Having said all that, the recipes that Tish Boyle presents in “Flavorful” are well thought out and carefully explained to practically ensure success. And the introduction has many helpful hints to keep even the baking novice well informed. But for me, this cookbook is more for the experienced baker—and one with a lot of time to bake. The book is divided into nine sections according to flavor (hence the title) and I randomly chose nine recipes, one from each section. Of these, six recipes had instructions of two pages or longer. One of the recipes I chose to test was the Apple and Almond Tart. In total baking, cooling, and refrigerator time (setting the pie shell dough), the recipe took 4 hours start to finish. Not your average pie recipe. It did get great reviews, though—one friend told me it was the best dessert he had had since arriving in New York about a year ago. Another friend
said the tart was “well balanced.” He enjoyed that the apples, while a little tart, were slightly sweetened by the apricot preserves. “Just delicious.” Another recipe I tested was the Lemon-Blueberry Parfaits. This was a snap to make and simply fantastic. These two are my favorite fruits for dessert, with the tartness of the lemon complementing the sweetness of the blueberries. And making the blueberries a compote with whole and crushed berries added a nice texture. The lemon component of the dessert was a creamy mousse, and the ginger snap cookies (I used them for dipping) added a little extra crunch. A true delight. The last recipe I tested was a candy, the Chocolate-Sea Salt Caramels. These were so easy to make and my photographer and I just loved them. I would say these are one of the few candies adults and children equally would enjoy. They are not too sweet, as the espresso powder cuts through the sweetness and the sea salt adds another dimension to the treat. My final observations are that the recipes in this book, while beyond delicious, are timeconsuming and at a difficulty level beyond the average home baker. This is a book for the experienced and confident baker. I think novice bakers will also be intimidated by the low ratio of photos to recipes. While this book has some 150 recipes, there are only 42 photos of finished recipes. That means that less than a third of the recipes have accompanying photos. And of those included, I would have preferred more photos of the finished recipes and fewer of just the ingredients. If you don’t have a food processor there are a number of recipes that you’ll have to skip, or else you’ll need to process the ingredients by hand, such as using a cheese grater to get finely ground almonds. And while you’re reading the recipe it will be imperative to add up the preparation and baking times, since these aren’t provided. But if you like a challenge then this cookbook is for you. “Flavorful” by Tish Boyle (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015) SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain U CO RT ES
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Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
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Rich Paella Valenciana
RECIPE APPLE AND ALMOND TART I love this classic French tart. A buttery almond crust is filled with a very almond-y cream filling and then topped off with thin slices of apple crusted with brown sugar. Because it’s made with almonds, the tart dough is a little delicate to work with, but it can easily be patched, if necessary. The apricot glaze, brushed on after baking, makes this tart look like it came straight from a Paris patisserie.
Make one 11-inch tart, serving 10 Almond Tart Crust • 3/4 cup (64 g/2.24 oz) unblanched sliced almonds • 2 tablespoons (25 g/0.88 oz) granulated sugar • 1 cup (132 g/4.6 oz) all-purpose flour • 1/8 teaspoon (0.83 g/0.03 oz) salt • 8 tablespoons (113 g/4 oz) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes and frozen for at least 20 minutes • 1 large egg yolk • 2 tablespoons (30 g/1 oz) ice-cold water Almond Cream and Apple Filling • Almond Cream (below) • 2 medium (453 g/1 lb) Granny Smith apples • 2 teaspoons (30 g/1 oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice • 1/4 cup firmly packed (54 g/1.9 oz) light brown sugar, divided
Fresh Lobster Bisque even layer. Refrigerate the tart while you prepare the apple filling.
PREPARE THE FILLING AND BAKE THE TART 5. Peel and core the apples and cut them in half. Cut each half into 1/4-inch slices and place the slices in a medium bowl. Sprinkle the lemon juice over the apples and toss to coat. Toss 3 tablespoons (40 g/1.4 oz) of the brown sugar with the apple slices. 6. Arrange the apple slices in concentric circles over the almond cream in the tart, overlapping the slices slightly and covering the cream. Sprinkle the apples with the remaining 1 tablespoon (13.5 g/0.5 oz) brown sugar. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for 40 to 45 minutes, until the filling and apples are nicely browned. Cool the tart in the pan set on a wire rack for 30 minutes.
7. Place the apricot preserves in a heatproof glass measure and microwave on high power for about 30 seconds, or until bubbling. Strain the hot preserves through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl. Brush the strained apricot preserves over the top of the tart. 8. Cook the almonds in a skillet over medium heat, tossing or stirring frequently, until lightly toasted. Cool completely. 9. Sprinkle the top of the tart with the toasted almonds. Serve the tart at room temperature.
MAKE THE CRUST
Also known as frangipane, baked almond cream makes a delicious filling for fruit tarts. It’s used in my Apple and Almond Tart and Raspberry Almond Tartlets. To create your own fruit tart, fill a fully baked tart shell with Almond Cream and bake at 350°F for 40 to 45 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the filling comes out clean (bake tartlets 25 to 30 minutes). Allow the filling to cool and top it with slices of fresh fruit or berries.
2. Place the unwrapped dough on a lightly floured work surface. Roll out the dough to a 13-inch circle, lifting and rotating the dough often and dusting the work surface and dough lightly with flour as necessary. Roll the dough up on the rolling pin and unroll it over an 11-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Gently press the dough onto the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Roll the pin over the top of the pan to trim off the excess dough. Prick the bottom of the tart shell with a fork at 1/2-inch intervals. Refrigerate the tart shell for 30 minutes. 3. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spray the dull side of a 12-inch square of aluminum foil with nonstick cooking spray. Line the tart shell with the foil, dull-side-down, and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Place the tart pan on a baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes. Carefully lift the foil (along with the weights) out of the tart pan and bake the crust for about 7 minutes longer, until the crust is just beginning to brown lightly. Leave the oven on. Transfer the tart pan to a wire rack and let cool completely.
FILL THE TART 4. Spread the Almond Cream into the cooled tart shell in an
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GARNISH THE TART
Garnish • 1/3 cup (100 g/3.5 oz) apricot preserves • 1/3 cup (28 g/1 oz) unblanched sliced almonds
1. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the almonds and sugar until the nuts are finely ground. Add the flour and salt and pulse to combine. Add the butter and, using a fork, toss them with the flour until coated. Pulse the mixture until the butter pieces are about the size of small peas. In a small bowl, stir together the egg yolk and water with a fork. Add the yolk mixture to the processor and pulse until the mixture just starts to come together. Transfer the dough to a work surface, gather together, and shape into a 5-inch disc. Wrap the disc in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour before rolling out.
Juicy Lamb Chops
Almond Cream
Makes about 2 cups • • • • • • • •
1 cup (85 g/3 oz) unblanched sliced almonds 1/2 cup (100 g/3.5 oz) granulated sugar, divided 7 tablespoons (100 g/3.5 oz) unsalted butter, softened 2 large eggs 2 tablespoons (16 g/0.58 oz) all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon (5 g/0.17 oz) vanilla extract Pinch of salt 1 tablespoon (15 g/0.5 oz) dark rum
1. In the bowl of a food processor, process the almonds and 2 tablespoons (25 g/0.88 oz) of the sugar until the nuts are finely ground. 2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter and the remaining 6 tablespoons (75 g/2.6 oz) sugar together at medium speed until well combined and smooth, about 2 minutes. Add the ground almonds and mix until combined. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Add the flour, vanilla, salt, and rum and mix until combined. Store the unbaked almond cream in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or in the freezer for up to 1 month.
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Excerpted from Flavorful: 150 Irresistible Desserts in AllTime Favorite Flavors, © 2015 by Tish Boyle. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved. COURTESY OF TISH BOYLE
RECIPE CHOCOLATE–SEA SALT CARAMELS Because they’re made with a good amount of bittersweet chocolate, these chewy caramels are not overly sweet. Their dominant flavor is chocolate, with a backnote of deep caramel and the mellow salty note from the Maldon sea flakes at the finish. Maldon sea salt is available at gourmet food stores and from many online sources.
Makes 64 squares • • • • • • • • • •
1 1/2 cups (300 g/10.5 oz) granulated sugar 1/4 cup (59 g/2 oz) water 3/4 cup (238 g/8.4 oz) sweetened condensed milk 3/4 cup (246 g/8.6 oz) light corn syrup 8 tablespoons (113 g/4 oz) unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened 6 ounces (170 g) bittersweet chocolate (62%), chopped 1/2 teaspoon (3.3 g/0.12 oz) fine sea salt 1 teaspoon (4 g/0.14 oz) vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon (1 g/0.03 oz) instant espresso powder dissolved in 1/2 teaspoon hot water 1 teaspoon (4 g/0.14 oz) Maldon sea salt or fleur de sel flakes
1. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with a piece of parchment paper or aluminum foil, letting it extend 3 inches beyond the edge of the pan on two opposite sides. Coat the paper or foil with butter or nonstick cooking spray. 2. Fill a cup with water and place a pastry brush in it (this will
be used for washing down the sides of the pan to prevent crystallization). In a clean, heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan, combine the sugar, water, condensed milk, corn syrup, butter, chocolate, and fine sea salt and place over medium-high heat. Cook, stirring and washing down the sides of the pan with the pastry brush a few times to wash away any sugar crystals, until the sugar is dissolved. Continue to cook, stirring constantly with a silicone spatula or wooden spoon to prevent the bottom from scorching, until the butter and chocolate are melted and the mixture reaches 250°F on a candy thermometer. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the vanilla and espresso powder mixture. Pour the caramel mixture into the prepared pan and let it stand for 10 minutes before sprinkling the Maldon sea salt on top. Let the caramel block cool at room temperature for at least 2 1/2 hours. 3. To cut the block, refrigerate the caramel for 15 minutes (but not longer). Use the parchment or foil edges as handles to lift the block from the pan. Place an inverted baking sheet on top of the block and flip the caramel and the sheet over. Peel off the paper or foil and then re-invert the caramel. Coat the blade of a sharp chef’s knife with nonstick cooking spay and cut the caramel into sixty-four 1-inch squares. Store the caramels in an airtight container between sheets of waxed paper, or individually wrapped in waxed paper, at room temperature for up to 2 weeks. Excerpted from Flavorful: 150 Irresistible Desserts in AllTime Favorite Flavors, © 2015 by Tish Boyle. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.
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LEMON-BLUEBERRY PARFAITS
MAKE THE COMPOTE
Lemon and blueberry has always been one of my favorite flavor combinations. In fact, a lemon-blueberry parfait was one of the first “fancy” desserts I remember making as a kid. The recipe came from Gourmet magazine from some time in the 1970s, and it was a meringue-based lemon mousse with blueberries folded into it. My mother and I served it at a dinner party, which was a big deal for me. Here’s my own version of that dessert: I amped up the lemon flavor in the mousse (I like my lemon on the tart side) and paired it with a fresh blueberry compote for a striking color contrast. I like to serve the parfait with a gingersnap cookie (I’m including my recipe, but you can use a good store-bought brand if you’re short on time) and some whipped cream.
5. In a small saucepan, combine 1 cup (138 g/4.8 oz) of the blueberries with the sugar and water. Bring to a boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat to medium low and simmer, stirring frequently, until the berries burst, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the remaining 1 cup blueberries and the lemon juice. Let the mixture cool until just warm. Transfer the compote to a small bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate while you make the mousse.
Makes 6 Parfaits Gingersnaps (makes about 50 cookies) • 2 2/3 cups (354 g/12.48 oz) all-purpose flour • 1 teaspoon (5 g/0.17 oz) baking soda • 1/4 teaspoon (1.6 g/0.06 oz) salt • 1 tablespoon (6 g/0.21 oz) ground ginger • 1 teaspoon (2 g/0.07 oz) ground cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon (0.5 oz/0.02 oz) ground cloves • 8 tablespoons (113 g/4 oz) unsalted butter, softened • 1/4 cup (50 g/1.76 oz) vegetable shortening • 1 1/3 cups (466 g/16.43 oz) granulated sugar • 1 tablespoon (10 g/0.35 oz) finely chopped crystallized ginger • 2 large eggs, at room temperature • 1/4 cup (80 g/2.8 oz) unsulphured molasses • 1/4 teaspoon (0.5 g/0.02 oz) finely grated lemon zest • Granulated sugar, for dipping cookie tops
MAKE THE GINGERSNAPS 1. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking soda, salt, ground ginger, cinnamon, and cloves. 2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the butter, shortening, sugar, and crystallized ginger at medium speed until light, about 2 minutes. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl after each addition and beating until well blended. Add the molasses and lemon zest and beat until combined. Add the flour mixture and mix on low speed just until blended and smooth. Cover the bowl and refrigerate the dough for at least 1 hour, until firm enough to handle. 3. Preheat to 350°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. 4. Place the dipping sugar in a shallow dish. Roll the dough into 1-inch balls and dip one side in the sugar. Arrange each ball, sugar side up, on one of the sheets. Using your palm, slightly flatten the balls. Repeat with the remaining dough and second baking sheet. Bake one sheet at a time for 9 to 12 minutes, or until the cookies are puffed and browned. Let the cookies cool on the sheet set on a wire rack for 5 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the rack to cool completely.
Fresh Blueberry Compote • 1 pint (276 g/9.7 oz) fresh blueberries, divided • 1/4 cup (50 g/1.76 oz) granulated sugar • 1/4 cup (59 g/2 oz) water • 1 teaspoon (5 g/0.17 oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice
Lemon Mousse • 3 tablespoons cold water • 1 1/4 teaspoons (3.9 g/0.14 oz) unflavored powdered gelatin • 8 large egg yolks • 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 g/8 oz) granulated sugar • 2 teaspoons (4 g/0.14 oz) finely grated lemon zest • 2/3 cup (161 g/5.6 oz) freshly squeezed lemon juice • Pinch of salt • 8 tablespoons (113 g/4 oz) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons • 1 cup (232 g/8.18 oz) heavy cream
MAKE THE MOUSSE 6. Place the water in a small, heatproof measuring cup. Sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let the mixture stand for 5 minutes to soften. Set the cup in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes, stirring occasionally, until the gelatin is dissolved and the mixture is clear. Keep the cup of gelatin in the hot water, off the heat, until ready to use. 7. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl and set aside. In a medium, heavy-bottomed, nonreactive saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until blended. Stir in the lemon zest and juice, salt, and butter and cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens, 7 to 10 minutes (do not let the mixture boil, or it will curdle). The mixture should leave a path on the back of a wooden spoon when you draw your finger across it. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the warm gelatin mixture. Immediately strain the mixture through the sieve, pressing it through with a rubber spatula. 8. Prepare an ice bath by filling a large bowl one-third full with ice and water and set the bowl containing the lemon mixture in it (be careful that the ice and water doesn’t splash into the lemon mixture). Stir the lemon mixture frequently until it is slightly chilled, about 15 minutes. (The lemon curd can be prepared and refrigerated, covered, up to 3 days in advance.) 9. Whip the cream to soft peaks. Fold onethird of the whipped cream into the lemon curd, then gently fold in the remaining whipped cream.
Assembly • Sweetened whipped cream • 6 gingersnap cookies, homemade or store-bought
ASSEMBLE THE PARFAITS 10. Spoon 3 rounded tablespoons of the compote into each of 6 serving glasses. Spoon 2/3 cup of the mousse on top of the compote in each glass. Refrigerate, covered with plastic wrap, until ready to serve, up to 1 day. 11. Before serving, garnish each parfait with sweetened whipped cream and a gingersnap cookie. Excerpted from Flavorful: 150 Irresistible Desserts in All-Time Favorite Flavors, © 2015 by Tish Boyle. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.