SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 December 11–17, 2015 The Best
Cheeses You’ve Never Had on
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The Delicata Squash and Honeycrisp Salad with pickled grapes, spiced pumpkin seeds, and pecorino cheese.
Market Table Before the market to table trend took off, chefs Mike Price and Joey Campanaro were rolling with the seasons
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff It’s a shining moment for vegetables. Chefs are working them into elaborate, high-octane dishes and crafting multicourse tasting menus around them. But at Market Table, in the West Village, chef-owners Mike Price and Joey Campanaro favor simple, unfussy preparations. “Neither one of us likes putting a bunch of foam on the plate, or encapsulating anything,” said Price.
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The Pumpkin Ravioli is pure harmony between sweet and savory, with a filling of Parmesan cheese and a sauce made of butternut squash purée, chicken stock, and butter.
Market Table Before the market to table trend took off, chefs Mike Price and Joey Campanaro were rolling with the seasons
Market Table
54 Carmine St. 212-255-2100 markettablenyc.com Hours Monday–Thursday 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday 11:30 a.m.–midnight Saturday 10 a.m.–midnight Sunday 10 a.m.–10 p.m.
Market Table continued from D1 Even with the ubiquitous squash in its many varieties—delicata, spaghetti, butternut—the two chefs expertly find ways to vary textures and flavors, creating wonderful yet uncomplicated dishes. In the Delicata Squash and Honeycrisp Salad ($13), the pleasant sweetness of the squash merges with mildly bitter frisée, strips of salty pecorino, sour pickled grapes, and fresh parsley leaves. Then chopped radicchio, honeycrisp apples, and pumpkin seeds add layers of texture. A tangy red wine vinaigrette delivers a splash of vibrant color. In each mouthful, a different dimension of the composition is revealed. The chefs play with textures to showcase vegetables alongside meat or seafood, but they are well-balanced so that neither overpowers the other. For spaghetti squash, the chefs roast it until tender, then pair it with celery root
slaw to accompany a slab of thinly breaded, juicy pork cutlet (Crispy Berkshire Pork Cutlet, $31). The effect is a delightful contrast between crunchy and soft, piquant and buttery sweet. A streak of zesty salsa verde kicks things up a notch. Home cooks, take note: this is how you cook vegetables to make them exciting. Price pairs items that either oppose each other, or have a similar mouthfeel. For example, butternut squash is slightly mushy, so adding some nuts gives it more oomph. Or, as with Market Table’s platter of Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($12), caramelized pecans, and sweet-sour apples enhance the chomping. Melding Flavors Campanaro and Price’s approach is to take advantage of the myriad flavors that vegetables possess, and meld them into a dish that delivers on all senses of taste: sweet, sour, bitter, and salty. “It’s about being able to man-
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• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Sautéed cauliflower and romanesco get a delightful tang from sherry gastrique.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Pecans and apples add extra crunch to these Roasted Brussels Sprouts.
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December 11–17, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
The Butternut Squash Risotto with sage and warming spices such as cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and ginger.
age the levels of sweetness and bitterness [in the vegetables], and manipulating that to be a crowd-pleaser for the palate,” Campanaro said. That means tempering the bitterness in romanesco and cauliflower with sherry “gastrique” and pine nuts ($11), or peppering a warm Butternut Squash Risotto with sage and cream spiced with cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg, and ginger ($15)— plus a topping of pumpkin seeds for crunch. The chefs’ love for vegetables shows in how they use every part of the plant. The top part of the butternut squash is diced up, while the bottom, with all the seeds, is used for purées. Scraps from cutting up odd-shaped vegetables are thrown into stocks for nutrient-filled concoctions. Campanaro is anticipating the first day it snows; that means rutabagas—his favorite vegetable for soups and broths—will be in season. When the two chefs opened Market Table eight years ago, their menu highlighting seasonal, local produce was something of an anomaly. Today, every other restaurant is billed as “farm to table,” but Price and Campanaro are less concerned about concepts, more focused on making good food. “You cook with what tastes best at the time, and what’s available, which ends up just being seasonal vegetables. There’s no real grandiose effort or science behind this to make ourselves a seasonal restaurant. I think it just comes naturally,” Price said. Instead, Campanaro said they prefer pleasing the diners’ palate more than their own. “Keeping hospitality first and foremost isn’t a typical thing that most chefs do. They think about themselves, their name, their cuisine, whether they’re misunderstood artists or not. We don’t have that issue. We just give people what they want, and have fun doing it,” said Campanaro. What do people want? Certainly the late autumn season calls for pumpkin. Market Table has an excellent Pumpkin Ravioli ($15 for appetizer, $22 for entree) on their specials menu. The parmesan cheese inside and the
You cook with what tastes best at the time, and what’s available, which ends up just being seasonal vegetables … It just comes naturally. Mike Price, chef-owner
incredible sauce on top, made of butternut squash purée, chicken stock, and butter, create pure harmony between sweet and savory. In the Sautéed Autumn Flounder ($29), a smear of gingered butternut squash purée perfectly captures autumn comfort, and lends a rich spicy-sweetness to the fish. Price matches the crispy sear on the fish with similarly chewy Brussels sprouts and crunchy pomegranate seeds. Finally, a drizzle of pomegranate reduction tops it off with a hint of tartness. Price said he chose to use these elements as co-stars because “flounder is mild fish, so you don’t want to pair it with overly powerful vegetables.” And for a solid chicken dish worthy of dining out, the Pan Roasted Bell and Evans Chicken ($28) is the embodiment of feel-good satisfaction, with tender, smoky meat underneath a crackly crisp skin, bok choy, and sweet potatoes slathered in hazelnut brown butter. For dessert, don’t miss the Pear and Cranberry Cobbler ($9), where the play of flavors and textures continues with a crumbly, barelythere almond streusel, warm fruit, and a scoop of ginger gelato. If you’re a cookie monster, you must try homemade Donato’s Cookies ($9) by Market Table maitre’d, Amy Donato. On a recent visit, the flavors were fluffernutter, maple bacon, and dirty chocolate cookies, all made with her signature touch of salt. Tips for Cooks Price has some cooking tips so that you can make vegetables the star of your dinner. Below is some of his sage advice:
The Crispy Berkshire Pork Cutlet, paired with celery root slaw and buttery sweet spaghetti squash.
THE HIGHEST STANDARDS OF QUALITY, AND DISCIPLINE TO TRADITION TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
• Do not overcook them. To bring out the natural flavors, roast vegetables in the oven, as opposed to boiling or blanching. A good technique is to cook the vegetables in a sauté pan, until they get some color, then place the pan in the oven for roasting. The process transfers the heat, resulting in vegetables with more caramelization. Plus it’s
Some of the season’s bounty, laid out at Market Table.
easy to clean up! • Keep things simple. “Don’t add stuff just to add it. I feel like people add five or six different things in there, and oh, it’s gourmet. Sometimes a good dish only needs one or two ingredients.” • For squash, it’s tough to mess it up, unless you didn’t season it properly. “Badly prepared squash to me is underseasoned squash. Somebody didn’t put some love into it. Somebody didn’t put sea salt at the end, drizzle it with maple syrup, or put toasted nuts on it. It’s just plain Jane.” • How do you pick out a good squash? Make sure there are no blemishes or soft spots, and that it’s firm. If it oozes sticky syrup when you cut the stem, it means the squash is fresh and sweet.
Mike Price, along with business partner Joey Campanaro (not pictured), is chef-owner of Market Table.
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December 11–17, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF ROSSOPOMODORO
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces.
stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF INTERNATIONAL CULINARY CENTER
Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
La Verace pizza.
ROSSOPOMODORO BOTTOMLESS PIZZA The Italian pizza chain is celebrating the holidays with a “bottomless pizza� special. Patrons can eat as many pies as they want for a flat price of $20. The rules: pizzas are brought out one at a time, and you must finish the whole pie before ordering the next. Pies include the Margherita (mozzarella, basil, San Marzano tomatoes), the Broccoletta (brussels sprouts, guanciale, fonduta cheese), and the Friarella (sausage, rapini, and mozzarella).
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com Making croissants at the International Culinary Center.
CLASSICS with FLAIR
INTERNATIONAL CULINARY CENTER COOKING CLASSES The International Culinary Center in SoHo has a lineup of cooking classes coming up in December and January. In the Homemade Pizza class, learn to make pizza margherita and tarte flambĂŠe. Or get baking in the classes on Doughnuts, Fritters and More; Classic Croissants; and Parisian Baguettes. International Culinary Center 462 Broadway Tuition: $195 internationalculinarycenter.com
HOT BREAD KITCHEN COOKBOOK TOUR Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
Jessamyn Waldman Rodriguez, founder of the acclaimed Harlem bakery Hot Bread Kitchen, is on tour to promote her recently published cookbook of recipes from the bakery, “The Hot Bread Kitchen Cookbook.� The bakery employs immigrant women, helping them develop their careers in the food industry. Rodriguez will be visiting local Whole Foods stores to sign copies of the book, answer audience questions, and offer samples of her vegetarian tamales. Wednesday, Dec. 16 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Whole Foods Market UES, 1551 Third Ave. Saturday, Dec. 19 3:30 p.m.–5:30 p.m. Whole Foods Market Bowery, 95 E. Houston St. hotbreadkitchen.org/blog wholefoodsmarket.com
DINOSAUR BAR-B-QUE BROOKLYN NEW MENU
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
The Brooklyn location of popular barbecue joint Dinosaur Bar-B-Que is serving up some new dishes inspired by international cuisines. Choose from Korean-influenced dishes like the gochujang-marinated and pit-smoked BBQ Lamb Shoulder and the Pork Belly Slider with Korean glaze. For a Jamaican twist, try the Jerk Lamb Shoulder Slider. And to get some spiced-up Latin American flavors, try the Double Trouble Green Chili Burger with jalapeùo, smoked poblano, pickled onions, and melted cheddar. Dinosaur Bar-B-Que Brooklyn 604 Union St., Brooklyn dinosaurbarbque.com
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
Sunday, Dec. 13, to Thursday, Dec. 24 Rossopomodoro 118 Greenwich Ave. $20 per person rossopizza.com
GANSO YAKI LUNCH MENU Japanese street food eatery Ganso Yaki has launched a new lunch menu, serving ramen in the different regional styles of Japan. There’s the Tokyo ramen, with a shoyu (soy sauce) base, chicken broth, and pork chashu; the Sapporo ramen with a shio (salt) base, butter, chicken broth, and crispy chicken leg; the Kyoto ramen, with a vegetarian broth of chili, miso, and shiitake mushrooms; and more. Ganso Yaki 515 Atlantic Ave., Brooklyn gansonyc.com/ganso-yaki
TRY THE WORLD POP-UP Try the World is a subscription box service that delivers snacks and goodies from around the world. On Dec. 15, the company will open a pop-up store for visitors to sample food and wine from different cultures. Their special holiday edition box, curated by food critic and TV host David Rosengarten, will also be on sale. The box includes pannetone from Italy, açaà dessert sauce from Brazil, and ginger snaps from Sweden. Through Dec. 29 Monday–Friday, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. Saturday & Sunday, 10 a.m.–8 p.m. Wallplay, 118 Orchard St. trytheworld.com
CASSOULET COOK-OFF East Village bar Jimmy’s No. 43 is hosting the Eighth Annual Cassoulet Cook-Off. Amateur and professional chefs will get to compete in making the best cassoulet—the rich French casserole of slow cooked meat and beans. The public can sample the different cassoulets and then vote on their favorite. Tickets also include one drink. Part of the proceeds will go to Grow NYC Greenmarket. Sunday, Jan. 10, Noon–3 p.m. Jimmy’s No. 43 43 E. Seventh St. $30 jimmysno43.com
BROOKLYN COOKIE TAKEDOWN Food event organizer Matt Timms is back with his latest “Takedown� home cooking competition, this time for homemade cookies. Join in the festivities to sample the competitors’ creations, or sign up for the competition yourself. A portion of the proceeds will go to Women’s Education Project. Sunday, Dec. 13, Noon–2 p.m. Royal Palms Shuffle Board Club 514 Union St., Brooklyn $20 thetakedowns.com
ZEPPELIN HALL BEER AND CHEESE FEST This German-style biergarten in Jersey City is hosting their annual Beer and Cheese Fest, with special grilled cheese sandwiches and poutine dishes to pair with their selection of beers. Among your options are the Pizza Melt Grilled Cheese, with mozzarella, marinara sauce, and pepperoni; JalapeĂąo Popper Melt, with jalapeĂąo poppers and American cheese; Veggie Grilled Cheese with wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, and aged gouda; and poutine dishes like the Chicken Diablo Poutine, with grilled chicken, jalapeĂąos, sriracha, and red pepper flakes and the Smoke Haus BBQ Poutine, with smoked pulled pork, jalapeĂąo pickles, and cheddar cheese. Through Dec. 23 Zeppelin Hall 88 Liberty View Dr., Jersey City, N.J. zeppelinhall.com
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SEAMORE’S FEAST OF THE SEVEN FISHES
thai
the modern
To ring in the holiday season, buzzy seafood restaurant Seamore’s is serving a new series of specials, changing every two days for two weeks beginning Dec. 10. Dec. 10–11: Fish Cakes with Curry Dec. 12–13: Frito Misto Dec. 14–15: Clams and Linguine tossed with white wine butter sauce Dec. 16–17: Shrimp and Grits Dec. 18–19: Stuffed Squid with squid ink and couscous risotto, sauteed peas, and mushrooms Dec. 20–21: Creamed Polenta with Monkfish Ragu Dec. 22–23: Whole Roasted Porgy stuffed with Italian mire poix and smoky tomato broth
experience THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY!
Seamore’s 390 Broome St. seamores.com
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SCHMACKARY’S HOLIDAY COOKIES
ES YO F SC HMACK ARY ’S
The popular cookie bakery is baking special holiday cookies. Pick up treats like the Dirty Peppermint, a dark chocolate cookie with white chocolate, crushed candy canes, and peppermint cream cheese frosting; and the Eggnog cookie, with rum and eggnog cream cheese frosting. Schmackary’s 362 W. 45th St. $2.75 each schmackarys.com
Dirty Peppermint, Eggnog, and Ginger Rogers cookies.
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Slow Roasted Duck Breast.
TOCQUEVILLE The French-American restaurant Tocqueville is serving a three-course holiday menu, with appetizers like Creamless Cauliflower Soup with preserved black truffles and House-Cured Terrine of Hudson Valley Foie Gras; entrees like Red Wine Braised Lamb Shank and Applewood Smoked Slow Roasted Rack of Pork; and dessert like Bittersweet Chocolate-Cherry BĂťche de NĂśel and Christmas Sundae with eggnog, chocolate mousse, and walnut ice cream.
Dec. 24 & 25 5 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Tocqueville 1 E. 15th St. $95 per person, $55 for children 10 and under tocquevillerestaurant.com
COURTESY OF TEMPURA MATSUI
TEMPURA MATSUI The upscale Japanese tempura restaurant is open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day to serve its tempura “omakase� course, which includes an appetizer, sashimi, 14 pieces of tempura, a rice course, and dessert. Dec. 24 & 25 6 p.m.–11 p.m. Tempura Matsui 222 E. 39th St. $200 tempuramatsui.com
KOA Enjoy an Asian-inspired Christmas meal at Chinese–Japanese restaurant KOA. Iron Chef Yuji Wakiya will be serving dishes like Dragon Fruit and Shrimp Ceviche, Salt-Crusted Filet Mignon with Spicy Chinese Miso Sauce, Dan Dan Ramen, and Strawberry Romanoff for dessert. Dec. 24, noon–8 p.m. Dec. 25, 5 p.m.–10:30 p.m. KOA 12 W. 21st St. $75 koanyc.com
We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills� approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
Dishes on Tempura Matsui’s winter omakase menu.
TAVERN ON THE GREEN The iconic restaurant in Central Park is serving a three-course prix fixe dinner on both Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. On Christmas Eve, the courses can also be ordered a la carte. Dec. 24 & 25 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Tavern on the Green 67th Street & Central Park West Christmas Eve: $95 per person, $55 for children Christmas Day: $125 per person, $75 for children tavernonthegreen.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Sta
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
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December 11–17, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town COURTESY OF EATALY
Rowland’s Bar and Grill, Chef Street at Macy’s Macy’s Herald Square brings the food truck trend indoors with Chef Street, featuring four chefdriven concepts with Airstream-style trailers: Taquitoria (with San Diego-style taquitos by Marc Forgone), Crumb on Parchment (with salads and grain bowls by Michelle Bernstein), Tabo Noodles (a ramen concept by Takashi Yagihashi), and Rollie’s (for burgers and brats). Nick Valenti and Patina Restaurant Group, which are behind the concept, are also launching Rowland’s Bar and Grill, a modern American gastropub, which will open mid-month. It is named after Rowland Hussey (R.H.) Macy, Macy’s founder. Dishes include smoked fish chowder and sea bream with parsley salsa verde (Rowland was born on Nantucket), house-smoked pastrami, and potato-leek comtÊ gratin. Both concepts are located at level one below, in the cellar.
Chef Street 9 a.m.–10 p.m. Rowland’s 11 a.m.–9:30 p.m. Macy’s Herald Square 151 W. 34th St. 212-868-3001
CRAIG LACOURT
Eataly’s 14th Floor Birreria has been transformed into an alpine pop-up.
Baita The 14th floor isn’t quite at mountain altitude, but that doesn’t stop Eataly from turning its 14th-floor Birreria into an Alpine pop-up. Baita, named after the Piedmontese word for a small ski lodge, is now decorated with cozy, festive winter touches (think Adirondack chairs with blankets, surrounding a Christmas tree). The menu, inspired from northern Italy, oers dishes like strangolapreti, bread and spinach dumplings with butter and sage; veal with prosciutto and fontina; and warm, restorative drinks like mulled wine and bombardino. Open daily from 11:30 a.m.
MICHAEL ALTOBELLO
200 Fifth Ave., 14th Floor 212-937-8910 eataly.com/us_en/nyc-baita An assortment of banchan, or side dishes.
Insa
Solomon & Ku Harlem’s latest resident is a gastropub oering a pan-Caribbean menu under the direction of chef Christopher Faulkner. The 5,000-squarefoot venue, which features a loft-style dining area and lounge seating as well as two elevated DJ booths, will have on stock over 100 international rums, as well as cocktails and craft beers. Open daily for dinner. 2331 12th Ave. (at 133rd Street) 212-939-9443 solomonandkuff.com
Fluke Crudo with apple, squash, crème fraÎche, and pumpkin seed oil.
Kingsley Chef-owner Roxanne Spruance has opened Kingsley in Nolita, where she is serving contemporary, seasonal French-American cuisine. A Blue Hill alum and 2013 “Chopped� winner, Spruance has created a menu including dishes like charred pork with salsify, blood orange, cocoa nibs, and cilantro; chawanmushi with escargot; and scallops with sunchoke, walnut, black garlic, and chicharrones. Open Wednesday to Sunday for dinner. 190 Avenue B (at East 12th Street) 212-674-4500 kingsleynyc.com
Nish Nush A second location of Nish Nush (“snack� in Hebrew) has opened in the Financial District. The menu is kosher, vegetarian, and multiple flavors of hummus and falafel are made daily. The falafel is gluten-free. Other signature dishes include shakshuka, salads, and homemade soups. Fun fact: the tables and counter are made from chickpea.
Chef Sohui Kim and designer Ben Schneider, the husband-and-wife team behind The Good Fork in Red Hook, are opening Insa, a Korean barbecue restaurant, bar, and karaoke lounge, on Dec. 15 in Gowanus. There is an emphasis on sustainable and humane purveyors. Grill meats come from Debragga, D’Artagnan, Niman Ranch, and Nueske’s while produce is sourced locally. “Banchan,� the traditional Korean side dishes, are a point of pride for the chef. They include three types of kimchee, watercress namul, pickled beef and peppers, salted whiting, soybean sprouts with combo, savory steamed eggs, and roasted and glazed kabocha squash. The 36-seat bar serves up Korean-Tiki cocktails (named after Korean folk tales), organic and biodynamic wines, craft beers, sakes, and from Van Brunt Still House, makgeolli and soju made specifically for Insa. Instead of accepting tips, Insa has a 20 percent administration fee. Open daily from 5 p.m. 328 Douglass St. (between Third & Fourth avenues), Gowanus, Brooklyn 718-855-2620 insabrooklyn.com
Blu on Park Owners Emir Muhic and Gigi Dzidzovic have taken over the first three floors of a renovated 1920s brownstone to open Blu on Park, a modern steakhouse. The menu, from executive chef Russell Rosenberg (The Boathouse, New York), includes yellowfin tuna tartare with shishito pepper tempura, uni, and black garlic; bone-in tomahawk ribeye; rib veal chop; sauteĂŠd black sea bass with celeriac, lobster, wild mushrooms and pinot noir jus. The wine list features 100 selections, 20 wines are available by the glass. Open daily for dinner from 4 p.m.
41 John St. nishnushnyc.com
116 E. 60th St. (between Park & Lexington avenues) 212-256-1929 bluonpark.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Sta
Authentic Cajun Flavor
DON’T MISS OUR BOTTOMLESS WEEKEND CAJUN BRUNCH!
We specialize in authentic New Orleans food—seafood gumbo, jambalaya, and Cajun seafood boil. We serve incredible Northeast steamed lobster & seafood and have an amazing selection of raw items—oysters, clams, shrimps and chilled lobster, king & snow crab legs.
Wide selection of draft beer
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Steamed King Crab Corn + Potato
$1Oyster Happy Hour 5pm - 8pm, everyday
Cajun Bake Special
$19.95 Whole Steamed Lobster Corn + Potato
All Day, Everyday 32 W 33rd St (between 5th Avenue & Broadway) near Empire State Building
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A Champagne bar station.
Entertaining at Home Over the Holidays? Here’s a DIY on Bars
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
AP PHOTO/ERIC RISBERG
By Michelle Locke The cocktail renaissance has transformed happy hours across the country. Now, it’s time to raise your home bar game. No more slapping a bottle of bottom-shelf vodka and a sixpack of tonic on your kitchen counter and calling it a party. This holiday season, you’re going to master the fine art of the better home bar experience. But before you start stressing over your holiday get-together—or wondering if your budget will stretch to a butler—here are a few tips on creating a stress-free soiree. Bottle Stations Open bars are for weddings. To keep your event manageable, limit your guests to a handful of drinks, and let them do the mixology work. Liz Brusca, spokeswoman for San Francisco’s Anchor Distilling Co., which makes and imports liquors, suggests starting by picking a handful of cocktails to serve, shopping for, and prepping the ingredients, then arranging each in its own location. For a recent event at San Francisco’s Gotham Club, she set out four cocktail stations, each equipped with the tools, glasses, liquor and mixers needed for one drink. When appropriate, she included a framed recipe. Not only does this approach help you buy only what you need, it also gives your guests something to do—and talk about—during those awkward first moments of acclimatizing to a room full of strangers. So, if you’ve decided to have guests make their own French 75s, you’d get in Champagne, a good gin, lemon juice, sugar or simple syrup, depending which recipe you favor, and a twist of lemon for the garnish. Add glassware and you’re good to go. Even simpler, a whiskey station with different takes on the brown spirit—think scotch, bourbon, and rye—high-quality ice, glasses and water droppers (adding a drop of water to whiskey helps the flavors open up). Do Ahead When you’re deciding what drinks to serve, consider cocktails that can be made up in quantities ahead of time, says Josh Harris, cofounder with Scott Baird of The Bon Vivants, a San Francisco-based cocktail, hospitality, marketing, and design consulting firm. This could mean whipping up classic batch drinks, such as punches, in advance, then setting them out so guests can serve themselves. Or you could take it in a new direction. Consider making large quantities of easily mixed drinks—old fashioneds and Manhattans are good choices—then offering them in attractive bottles for people to pour their own. Just offer the bottled cocktails with ice and glassware. Or strike a mixer middle ground. Offer the ingredients for set cocktails, but include items made in advance, such as flavored simple syrups. “Last year, I set up an old fashioned bar and had apple spice syrup on hand for people who preferred a flavored cocktail,” says Harris. Mix It Up Want to take a more freewheeling approach? That can be easier—and less expensive—than you think. Start with a couple bottles of your favorite base spirits. “And don’t just buy the cheapest bottle; buy what you like,” says Baird. “No matter what you spend, it’s going to be cheaper
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores.
www.wanjashan.com A Negroni cocktail station is set up at a holiday party in San Francisco. than going out to a bar and paying for drinksthere.” Next, add a variety of mixers (soda, tonic water, etc.) in small, single-serving sized bottles. Add fresh juices, a bottle or two of bitters and some basic mixing liqueurs—triple sec, vermouths, etc. This collection—which shouldn’t cost that much—should enable most guests to make something delicious no matter what their drink of choice. And don’t forget to pay attention to the quality of the mixers. “When you pour a drink, it’s often made two-thirds or more of the mixer and you should use a mixer of the same quality as your spirits,” points out Jordan Silbert, founder of Q Drinks. For the simplest of parties, he recommends getting a few different styles of gin, lemon and lime garnishes, and good quality tonic. Or, go with vodka and along with tonic put out the ingredients for Moscow mules (vodka, ginger beer, lime juice, mint for muddling and as a garnish). Q Drinks has a spicy ginger beer that comes in a frosted bottle, the same type used for white wine, that “looks gorgeous,” says Silbert. “Everybody is going to think you did everything to the nines where you really just bought two nice bottles of liquid.” Other possibilities—swap out the mint garnish for rosemary for a seasonal look and float a few cranberries in the gin and tonics. Dabble in Decor Chances are your 800-square-foot city apartment doesn’t come with a fully stocked wet bar. And even a bigger place can feel cramped if the only place to mix drinks is a crowded kitchen table. Julie Richard, design expert at Ace Hardware, recommends repurposing a piece of furniture as a bar. If you want to go all out, you could paint an old credenza in a bright color, or just use an existing table and cover it with a good-looking cloth. Bookcases are another option. If the top is too narrow to work as a mixing station, set a table close by, says Richards; you don’t want guests juggling glassware. You may need to take out some of the shelves to make room for tall bottles; if you’re feeling ambitious, gluing a mirror on the back of the shelf where it will reflect your gleaming bottles is a nice touch. Trays are a good shortcut to keeping things neat and under control. You might have one for bottles, one for glasses, another for bowls of garnishes, etc. From The Associated Press
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Underdog White Varietal White wines can make special gifts and they can age too. My favorite underdog white grape variety is Chenin Blanc, and one wine that I almost always order in a restaurant or buy in a retail outlet if I see it is the ridiculously underpriced Domaine des Baumard, Savennières from Anjou in the Loire Valley. The currently available 2012 is only about $22 and is an amazing accompaniment to virtually any fish or chicken dish. Bone dry and minerally with a chalky appleand pear-like intensity, this estate bottled wine originates from a property that has been owned by the Baumard family since 1634. Organically farmed, the grapes grow on a rocky mix of schist and volcanic debris mixed with sandstone and granite that limit production and build extra concentration of flavor into the wine. Interestingly, this wine can age for at least five to seven more years, although it is so savory and distinctive in flavor that whomever you give it to might not be able to resist drinking it now.
or Dover sole. You are likely to experience aromas of brioche, lemon, and vanilla, pinpoint bubbles, and a lingering elegant dry finish. It’s a myth that Champagne can’t be stored. This one will continue to improve for up to a year. As an added touch, suggest that the person you give it to enjoys it from a fine white-wine stem that will allow the Champagne to open and breathe, rather than in a flute.
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Spanish Red For reasonably priced, delicious red wine, the best place on earth today is Spain. Why? An abundance of very old vines, rocky soils, high-elevation vineyards, and large variations in day and night temperatures all add up to red wines with super-concentrated flavors and aromas. A stunner in the deep value category that tastes at least twice as expensive as it is ($20), the Tarima Hill Monastrell 2013 from Alicante in southeastern Spain will make any red-wine lover on your list happy. Alicante is a region that experiences insanely high swings in day and night temperatures during the summer, promoting ripeness (made from the Monastrell grape, the wine has a dark-red berry, fig-like, mocha flavor) as well as structure (plenty of juicy tannins and supporting acids). Tarima’s riot of taste sensations include raspberry, cherry, cocoa, licorice, mushroom, and allspice. This is serious big-boy wine from a special place at a giveaway price. In fact, buy a case, give some of the bottles as gifts, and keep the rest for yourself. Champagne It’s always appropriate to give Champagne during the holidays—any Champagne. One that I particularly like that will set you back only about $50, is the Taittinger Brut “La Française,” a non-vintage blend that is consistently delicious, but in a lighter, more delicate style. Still family-owned, Taittinger is based on the Chardonnay grape, as opposed to many of the other houses that use a majority of the region’s more widely planted red grapes. The family’s extensive vineyard holdings in the Côte de Blancs impart a finesse to “La Française” that make it an ideal starter for the holiday meal, as well as a wonderful accompaniment to dishes such as poached scallops
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ine is a wonderful gift to offer for the holidays. The bottle you choose makes a statement about your taste and the experiences you would like to share with the recipient. A warm note explaining why you selected the particular bottle is always a nice touch. It’s not about the cost so much as the thought that went into matching it with the recipient. The following are selections that I would be proud to give, or like to receive, for the holidays.
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Bold and Quirky If someone on your list likes really bold and intense red wines, but with a soul and quirky personality, you couldn’t do better than selecting the Nino Negri “Sfursat Carlo Negri,” Sforzato di Valtellina, 2010, from northwestern Italy. A mouthful to say, this wine really shines with food, particularly hearty meat dishes. From grapes grown on terraced hillside vineyards way up at the base of the pre-Alps near Italy’s Swiss border, this is made from Nebbiolo grapes (locally known as “Chiavennasca”) that are sun-dried and then fermented and aged in French oak casks for over two years. Known since antiquity, the wines of Valtellina were noted for their power by Leonardo Da Vinci in his Codex Atlanticus. This wine costs about $100. It has raisiny and plummy flavors, with clove, baking spice, and licorice accents. It can be enjoyed now or aged for up to a decade. True Splurge For a true splurge, a bottle you might want to put in the cellar and store for decades until just the right moment, or one that you could enjoy more immediately, the Joseph Phelps “Insignia,” Napa Valley, 2012 can’t be beat ($250). This was the original “Meritage” style Bordeaux blend from Napa, way back in the 1970s, and it represented Joseph Phelps’s opinion, somewhat controversial in Napa at the time, that the greatest wines need not be labeled according to a particular grape variety. The 2012 was a magical harvest in Napa, and this wine is the best I have tasted. It is a majority Cabernet Sauvignon, but includes all five Bordeaux red varieties. With a rich, heady aroma of black currant and spice, it’s very full on the palate, but also velvety and smooth. It finishes with smoky notes and exotic spices. Open this for a few hours before serving and enjoy it with the traditional Christmas roast. Sandy Block is the vice president of beverage operations at the Boston-based restaurant Legal Sea Foods. He was the first American on the East Coast to be certified as Master of Wine.
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Than Bagels COURTESY OF ALESMITH
For Craft Beer Lovers By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Are you looking for that perfect gift for a craft beer lover? For advice, we turned to trailblazing brewer Sam Calagione, the founder and president of Dogfish Head Craft Brewery. As expected, Calagione had plenty of ideas. If you’re heading to a party and looking for a gift for the host, Calagione suggests dropping by your host’s local brewery for a gift. “It’s a nice, novel gift to find the closest brewery and take the time to go there and buy a freshly poured growler—a half gallon of draft beer that should be drunk as fresh and immediately as possible.” Not sure which beer or which brewery? Check beeradvocate.com for ratings.
that’s over 9 percent. “They can age as well as the world’s finest bordeaux, but they’re an affordable luxury,” Calagione said. On each bottle, write, “Happy New Year 2016,” “Happy New Year 2017,” and so on, and you’ll have set them up for a New Year’s toast for the next several years.
Each SIMIT + SMITH simit is hand-rolled at our local factory and always freshly baked with no preservatives. We also serve
His picks: Sierra Nevada’s Bigfoot Barleywine, “a nice hoppy marmalade-esque barleywine that ages well”; AleSmith’s Speedway Stout; and from Dogfish, the Palo Santo Marron (12 percent ABV), aged in tanks made of Paraguaran Palo Santo wood—as it ages, the flavor of the roast recedes, and the spicy, caramel character of the wood comes forward.
His picks: Allagash White, Avery Brewing’s White Rascal, and Dogfish Head’s Namaste.
Imperial IPAs Whereas single IPAs are defined by the grassiness of the hops and bitterness, imperial IPAs are more wine-like in their complexity. “Imperial IPA usually also have some barley character, some sweetness, and more body to them,” Calagione said. “They can stand up to really flavorful foods like turkey, or even chocolate cake. They have the alcohol content closer to chardonnay, so they’re great partners for food.”
An Affordable Luxury Here’s a tip for a special gift: Buy a 4-pack or 6-pack of 12-ounce bottles of dark beer
His picks: Stone Brewing’s Arrogant Bastard, Russian River Brewing Company’s Pliny the Younger, Dogfish Head’s 90-Minute IPA.
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RECIPE OLD FASHIONED • 1 sugar cube (or 1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar) • 2 ounces Ragtime Rye Whiskey • 2 dashes Angostura Bitters • Chilled seltzer or club soda
Place sugar in the glass. Add a large ice cube, add Ragtime Rye, give it a quick stir, and if possible, serve with a petite serving stick.
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ESY O
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DIRECTIONS
Launched this fall, the Coravin Model Two has a more intuitive, streamlined design than the original—all while still allowing for tasting wines without having to pull the cork. In other words, it saves the wine from oxidation and lets it evolve naturally in the bottle. The Model Two’s needle also pours 20 percent faster than the original. COUR T
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Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
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In the days of old, long before the cocktail renaissance and before Prohibition, the backbone of traditional cocktails in America was gin and rye whiskey. New York Distilling Company—based in Williamsburg, Brooklyn—specializes in these spirits with history. This fall, it released Ragtime Rye, a straight American rye whiskey. The primary grains— rye (72 percent), corn (16 percent), and malted barley (12 percent)—are all from farms in New York. It’s aged for a minimum of three years in oak barrels. “We find so many craft whiskeys are aged for six months, twelve months— they’re not bad but taste of just wood,” co-founder Allen Katz said. Ragtime Rye, on the other hand, through exposure to cycles of hot and cold temperatures, has had time to mellow and develop notes of caramel, tobacco, clove, and fruit, with a spicy finish. What’s the best way to enjoy it? Try it in a Manhattan, Old Fashioned, or Sazerac.
Salads, Sandwiches, Turkish Tea and Coffee
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To Start Off the Party For something light, Calagione suggests making beer-mosas—mixing two-thirds Belgianstyle white beer to one-third fresh-squeezed orange juice, and serving them in champagne flutes. The orange peel and coriander in these beers makes them natural partners with orange juice.
Often called a “Turkish bagel,” Simit are softer and lighter on the inside and crunchier on the outside.
Carla Rzeszewski and Richard Betts.
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Some of the cheeses imported by Marcelli Formaggi from the Abruzzo region of Italy (clockwise from top L):
OCH TI MES
1. Pecorino Gregoriano. 2. Caciocavallo Podolico Colantuano.
3. 1.
3. Ricotta Peperoncino. 4. Ricotta Passita.
2.
5. Pecorino di Parco. 6. Pecorino Brigantaccio. 4.
7. Smoked Ricotta al Fumo di Ginepro (Juniper). 8. Ricotta with chives. 8.
Soft pecorinos? Smoked ricottas? Yes, please.
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5. 6.
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Land of Milk & Honey These humble cheeses from Abruzzo, Italy, could be the best cheeses you’ve never had By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
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Twelve years ago, the villagers of Anversa degli Abruzzi, Italy, population 350, witnessed the debarkation of 13 Americans and 42 pieces of luggage. “We basically invaded this village,� said Bob Marcelli, whose grandparents hailed from there. In 1916 his grandfather left the poor, depressed Abruzzo region for America and never came back. “Why did you leave?� Bob remembers asking his grandfather. “He looked at me [and said] ‘To eat.’� Anversa is only 75 miles east of Rome, but in a sense it is worlds away, perched on a rock outcrop overlooking the Gorges of Sagittarius, and sandwiched between the Abruzzo and Mount Maiella National Parks. The village counts two churches, a pharmacy, two bars, a store that sells tobacco, and a bank that opens infrequently. Bob estimates the median age to be about 60; people often left Anversa to seek a better life and usually never came back. On the occasion of their first ancestral trip to Anversa, the American Marcellis were welcome with open arms by the Italian Marcellis. Of the 300-plus inhabitants, Bob jokes that the family is related to about half of them. This is “Marcelli Kingdom,� as his daughter Christina calls it. Bob met his cousin Nunzio, who was running an agriturismo and making cheese from sheep’s milk. Bob, a self-described “recovering chef,� (he was a 1990 James Beard Foundation Rising Chef) was intrigued. “We tasted the cheese and I said, ‘Oh. You don’t make cheese. You make cheese. I was completely blown away by the quality of the
flavor and the variety.� It took about the better part of two years for Bob to convince his Italian relatives that they could make a go of exporting their raw milk sheep’s cheeses to the United States. They now do business under the company name of Marcelli Formaggi, with a warehouse in Montclair, N.J. They are humble cheeses to be sure—mostly pecorino and ricotta—evoking at first sight nothing but the memory of ho-hum mass produced commercial versions and maybe at worst, some uneasy memories of chalky textures. The family’s smoked ricotta is a modest thing: a white, vaguely dome-ish shape, with traces of ridges left from the baskets where they were aged. But lo, one bite is enough to dispel middling expectations: this cheese is truly transcendent. Chef Marc Forgione has said of these cheeses: “Each bite tastes like Abruzzo. If you close your eyes while you eat it, you can actually see the sheep!� The sheep! There are 1,300 sheep of the local ancient Soppravizzano breed gainfully employed by the Parco Produce cooperative, which Nunzio co-founded, grazing on mountain grasses and over more than 120 types of wild herbs and flowers. This ancient breed produces just about one-fifth of what a conventional breed produces. Bob compares it to driving a car that gets 2 miles per gallon versus 50 miles a gallon. Why on earth would you opt for a less productive breed? “It’s a whole concept of respecting tradition, preserving history. At one time in SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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All in family (L–R): Marcelli Formaggi co-owners Andy Marcelli, Christina Marcelli, and Bob Marcelli, in Montclair, N.J. (Emily Marcelli not pictured.)
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(Clockwise from Top) A selection of products from Marcelli Formaggi, all from the Abruzzo region. Hardworking sheep busy earning their keep. The fragrant honeys, from sunflower to cherry to chestnut, are superlative.
Each bite tastes like Abruzzo. If you close your eyes while you eat it, you can actually see the sheep! Chef Marc Forgione
HOLIDAY
PICK
Abruzzo there were 3 million of these kinds of sheep and today there are a couple hundred thousand,� he said. Their constitution is hardier. “They’re really bred for that kind of environment,� Bob said. A few times a year, sheep, dogs, shepherds, and guests at the agriturismo partake in the “transumanza,� or “crossing the land,� a centuries-old tradition where sheep are herded between lowlands and highlands. By car, it would take an hour; on foot it takes about three days. The sheep are slow and besides, are busy munching on the herbs underfoot along the way—mint and fennel and juniper and thyme. The Cheeses The words to describe the Marcelli family’s smoked ricotta come to me as pure and innocent—a clean milkiness perfumed ever so slightly by the juniper wood smoke. The ricotta passita (or dried passita) is covered with the mountainside herbs that the sheep feast on, such as rosemary, thyme, sage, and for good measure, some pepperoncino. This version almost made me weep with happiness. It is that good: creamy, intense, pungent, spicy, alive. And then for a palate jolt, there’s the brightred pepperoncino ricotta (a chefs’ favorite). Another incredible cheese is the organic Pecorino Gregoriano, a cheese made by Nunzio’s neighbor Gregorio, half an hour away. First of all, it is a soft pecorino, and second, it is buttery and funky. And what about the Pecorino di Parco? Nutty, rich, slightly crumbly, and only slightly salty. Made from raw organic cow’s milk, the remarkable Caciocavallo Podolico Colantuono is made by Carmelina Colantuono, a fourth-generation cheesemaker and one of the few women Italian cheesemakers. Known as the “Last Cow Girl� in Italy, she shepherds COURTESY OF MARCELLI FORMAGGI
the cows on horseback during their annual transumanza. Restaurants such as Del Posto, Maialino, and Locanda Verde have served the cheeses from Marcelli Formaggi—and the majority of the time not cooked into dishes—heavens, no—but simply cut and served as they are. If there can be any improvement on the cheeses, it would be to pair them with honeys made from the same region, such as sunflower honey, chestnut honey, cherry honey—the sweet liquid gold made from the same flowers that the sheep so love. These days, the word is getting out about Anversa. And often in the same breath as “cheese,� all for good reason. Cheese prices range $16–42.95. Gift sets available, as well as olive oil, pastas, and sauces from Abruzzo. marcelliformaggi.com. Cheeses can also be found at Eataly.
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Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) (212) 581-1581
Limited Time Only Ends Dec. 15th Hiroshimayaki + Soup + Pumpkin Obanyaki + Tea / Coffee + Special Present +
(subject to availability)
Special Holiday Set
The Hiroshimayaki MOCU-MOCU
This traditional Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki is not to be missed!
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) 212-765-0197 Mocu-Mocu.com
COURTESY OF MARCELLI FORMAGGI
A $31 Value Only $23
Serious Hot Pot Seriously Addicting
Authentic Sichuan “mala tang� will leave you craving more and more. The PERFECT Lunch Spot Customize your Hot-Pot with meat or seafood. We also offer a spicy Dried-Pot stirfry. Not a fan of spicy? We have a soup for you!
Caciocavallo Pezzata Rossa is made from the milk of a rare breed of cow originally used to produce Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Now you dont have to go to Flushing for a taste of Sichuan flavors. Check us out in Midtown
COURTESY OF MARCELLI FORMAGGI
Manting
150 W. 49th St. 646-921-7777
We are proud to have been voted
BEST DINER IN NYC by residents and businesses in lower east manhattan
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Remedy Diner Open 24 Hours
The village of Anversa degli Abruzzi, population 350.
(L–R) Bob Marcelli, his Italian cousin Nunzio Marcelli, and Bob’s son Andy Marcelli.
245 East Houston Street New York (212) 677-5110 RemedyDinerNyc.com
$10 Beer & Burger Monday to Friday Special 3-7pm.
D12
@EpochTaste
December 11–17, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 ) 品味朝鮮王朝的 美味佳餚(三樓)
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
Roasted Duck Is Easier, and More Delicious, Than You Think By Sara Moulton
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
The prospect of roasting a duck strikes many a home cook as a mountain too high, but I’m not sure why. It’s definitely no more complicated than cooking a whole turkey, and I think it tastes far better. Some folks surely suspect that duck is gamey, but that’s only true of some wild ducks. It’s not true of the kind known as Pekin (or Long Island) duck, the domesticated product most widely available at supermarkets. Other folks shy away because they’ve heard that duck is too fatty and rich. Sure enough, there is a fair amount of fat in duck, but most of it is in and under the skin. The meat itself actually is quite lean. And—surprise!—duck fat, unlike beef fat and most kinds of poultry fat, boasts some of the same healthy attributes as olive oil. So this holiday season why not roast a duck? As noted, it’s pretty simple. However, you do need to set aside enough time to let the bird cook properly in the oven, just as you would when roasting a turkey. The goal is a bird with
crispy skin and moist meat. The easiest way to make it happen? Roast the duck low and slow, pricking the skin every so often to drain out the fat. (Do be careful, however, not to prick the meat; you don’t want to lose any juices from the meat.) At the end of the process, the duck is treated to a final crisping in a high-heat oven, then retired for a nice long rest to let the juices redistribute before the bird is carved. The slow-roasting process provides you with ample time to make a succulent sauce from the bird’s giblets, neck, and wings. Those parts are browned in a saucepan along with onions, carrots and garlic, then simmered in red wine and chicken broth, and finally finished with green peppercorns and Dijon mustard. (You’re welcome to lose the peppercorns if they’re too hot for you.) The end result is a wonderfully tasty duck swimming in a French-style sauce. Fancy! And much more interesting than turkey. Your guests will think you are a culinary genius. From The Associated Press
RECIPE BISTRO-STYLE SLOW-ROASTED DUCK Prep & Cooking Time: 4 hours, 50 minutes (50 minutes active) Serves: 4 • 5 1/2- to 6-pound Pekin (Long Island) duck • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 1 tablespoon vegetable oil • 1 small yellow onion, finely chopped • 1 small carrot, coarsely chopped • 2 cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a knife • 1 tablespoon tomato paste • 1 cup dry red wine • 1 stalk celery, coarsely chopped • 2 sprigs fresh thyme • 1 bay leaf • 3 cups low-sodium chicken broth • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour • 2 tablespoons drained bottled green peppercorns, packed in brine • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 250 F. Remove the neck and giblets from the cavity of the duck, pat dry, and reserve. (Save the liver for another use, such as sauteing and serving on toast.) Cut the last two joints of the wings off and reserve. Remove the excess fat from the cavity of the duck and cut off the flap of skin at the back end of the duck. (You can save the skin and fat to render into duck fat for future use.) Rinse the duck under cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Using the tip of a paring knife, prick the duck all over, in 1/2-inch intervals, inserting the knife at an angle to pierce just the skin, not the flesh. Make sure to prick the skin around the leg thigh joint thoroughly, as there is a lot of fat stored there. Season the duck well with salt and pepper. Place on a rack in a roasting pan and roast on the oven’s middle shelf for 3
1/2 hours, removing the roasting pan after the first and second hour of roasting to re-prick the duck skin. After the duck has roasted for 3 1/2 hours, carefully pour off all the fat at the bottom of the roasting pan (reserving it for other uses, such as sauteing potatoes), and increase the oven temperature to 450 F. Return the duck to the oven and roast it for 10 minutes. Transfer the duck to a platter, cover with foil, then let it rest for 30 minutes before carving. While in the duck is roasting, cut the neck and wings into 1 1/2-inch pieces. In a large saucepan over medium-high, heat the vegetable oil. Add the neck, giblets, and wings. Cook, stirring often, until golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the onion, carrot, and garlic. Cook until the vegetables are lightly browned, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the wine and bring to a boil, stirring to pick up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Boil until most of the wine has evaporated. Add the celery, thyme, bay leaf, broth, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer, and cook, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface and adding water to the saucepan if the liquid dips below the bones, until the duck is ready to come out of the oven. While the duck is resting, strain the stock and discard the solids. Measure the liquid. You should have about 1 1/2 cups. If you have more, boil the liquid down. If you have less, add water. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour and 1/4 cup water. In the saucepan, bring the duck stock to a boil, add the flour mixture in a stream, whisking. Bring the mixture back to a boil and simmer 4 minutes. Stir in the green peppercorns and mustard, then season the sauce with salt and pepper. Carve the duck and serve each portion with some of the sauce.