SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 December 18–24, 2015
Cinnamon Roll
Donut
Deconstructed on
D6
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The
Tomahawk
ROCCO
Make Epoch Taste Even Tastier
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Rocco Steakhouse opened in the NoMad neighborhood in September, adding another steakhouse to the city’s dining scene. What makes this one any different?
W i Din n at ner
A Young Steakhouse With Confidence Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
Thirty-four ounces of on-the-bone rib steak brought out our inner caveman. Unga Bunga!
See Rocco on D2
Lau t
Tas teW in2
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
ROCCO
A Young Steakhouse With Confidence
Executive chef Johnny Jevric in the steak aging room, where USDA Prime steaks are aged for 28 to 30 days.
Rocco continued from D1
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
A quick glance at the menu outlines the usual staples: porterhouse, ribeye, filet mignon (though in all fairness, a cow only has so many cuts). Then there are also the usual seafood suspects: crab cakes, chilled seafood tower, Chilean sea bass, and salmon. Down to the mahogany and leather, it has the makings of a classic steakhouse through and through. Yet there’s a sort of well-oiled rhythm and confidence to this young steakhouse. No doubt it comes from the collective experience among its ranks. Each staff member brings at least 10 years’ experience at a major steakhouse. General manager and partner Pete Pjetrovic, for example, had worked at Wolfgang’s for 10 years; the same goes for beverage director and partner Jeff Kolenovic. The other co-owner— and the restaurant’s namesake—is Rocco Trotta, the co-founder and chairman of the board of The LiRo Group, a construction company that worked on the 7 subway line extension and High Line Park, among other projects. It was at Wolfgang’s that he befriended his current partners and the rest, as they say, is history. When Pjetrovic left Wolfgang’s to work at Rocco, a number of waiters followed, including head waiter and sommelier Henry Doda, who also worked at Wolfgang’s for 10 years. Altogether 14 staff members followed him over from Wolfgang’s. It’s clear the waiters wear their confidence on their sleeve. The service is on point and attentive. They are self-assured, charming, and funny. It looks like they are having a ball, really having a ball—and who doesn’t like to be served by people who are enjoying their work? A waiter who wasn’t tending to our table came by around the middle of dinner. Like an old friend, he looked at the dishes and said, “Greek food is good, Mexican food is good, but steak and macaroni, nothing beats that!” he said, as he gleefully rubbed his bon vivant belly. Another waiter arrived with my order and served portions onto my plate. “That’s a beautiful dinner!” he said in a hushed and almost reverent tone. Later, our waiter came by with the dessert menu. “And now, the best part!” he said with a conspiratorial smile, as he turned over the descriptions of cheesecake and key lime pie to show the list of post-dinner drinks. There’s zero doubt these gents are thorough professionals. In the kitchen, too, executive chef Johnny Jevric brings his 20-plus years of experience, including the past 10 years as executive chef at Wolfgang’s. Start off with a slice of the sizzling bacon. The melt-in-your-mouth, char-grilled strip of well proportioned pork fat and meat is sure to whet your appetite for what is to come ($5.95 per strip). The steaks are USDA Prime, and aged the entire time onsite in aging boxes for 28 to 30 days. The porterhouse is the most popular cut,
(L–R) Co-owner and beverage director Jeff Kolenovic; co-owner Rocco Trotta; co-owner and general manager Pete Pjetrovic; and head waiter and sommelier Henry Doda.
but we got the tomahawk steak, a 34-ounce beauty of a cut for a true carnivore; its crackly char gives way to tender, well-seasoned meat ($97.95). If the tomahawk has you feeling like a caveman or woman, then it is entirely your prerogative to do your part to avoid food waste and gnaw on the meat bits left on the bone. “You don’t know how off you are until you have a big fatty steak. I feel like going for a run now,” my dining partner said. Don’t miss the baked German potatoes, with caramelized onions and a generous ratio of crispy golden crust to interior ($10.95), or the crab cakes, which are surprisingly big and contain sweet chunks of very fresh crabmeat ($19.95). The Arugula Apple & Pear Salad with Parmesan shavings was impressively light with a delicate acidity—from the dressing and the apples— that cut the fattiness of the steak wonderfully, while a dusting of black pepper brought out the pepperiness of the arugula ($12.95). Those who prefer seafood won’t feel left out here, with selections such as broiled red snapper, jumbo shrimp scampi, or steamed lobster. The seafood is delivered daily. The prices at Rocco aren’t cheap for sure, but the portions are unfailingly generous. Rob Counts contributed to this report.
The Arugula Apple & Pear Salad with Parmesan shavings.
Rocco Steakhouse 72 Madison Ave. (between 27th & 28th streets) 212-696-9660 roccosteakhouse.com Hours Monday–Saturday Noon–10:30 p.m. Sunday Private parties only
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
The crab cakes, filled with fresh, sweet crab meat, were among the biggest we’ve seen in town.
D3
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com MANOS ANGELAKIS
Sparkling Wines for the Holidays By Manos Angelakis
When the good friar developed his wonderful wine, the much sweeter bottles were considered best.
France I popped the first cork, a Vintage Champagne Piper Heidsieck, Brut. I like this particular Champagne and often use it as a standard for comparison. It has fine bubbles for a gentle effervescence. Subtle floral notes of dried apricots, grapefruit, and fresh figs are intertwined with elegant touches of tobacco and leather, adding hints of nutmeg and mace to the long finish. The second is another Champagne: the vintage Palmes d’Or Brut from Nicolas Feuillatte. This is a super-premium version of the Feuillatte Champagnes and comes in a black velvet sack that contains a distinctive, dimpled bottle. The Champagne is pale gold-colored with yellow highlights. Bone dry, it is crisp, bright, and complex. It has a gentle mousse, and tastes more yeasty than the nose would suggest, but has a well-structured palate. A rosé version, the Palmes d’Or Rosé, is made as well and comes in a red velvet sack. The third bottle I like is from Besserat de Bellefon in northeastern France. Their Cuvée des Moines Rosé is a nonvintage sparkler made from 47 percent pinot noir, 43 percent pinot meunier, and 13 percent chardonnay. This rosé is pale salmon-colored, with a light strawberry rim. There is a lot of strawberry fruit and dry cherries on the nose. It is soft, slightly off dry, with red stone fruit notes dominating the palate. There is a touch of cognac taste on the long finish.
Sofia, a medium golden Blanc de Blanc from the Francis Coppola vineyards in California.
Italy From Italy comes the Ferrari Perlé Trentodoc, a méthode champenoise sparkler from Trentino, made from 100 percent chardonnay grapes. It is aged for a minimum of five years on the lees. This is an interesting creamy, deep yellow with golden highlights sparkler, with a lively and persistent mousse and aromatic notes of baked apple, gingerbread, and yeast that linger on the finish. Also from Italy comes another favorite, Vigna la Rivetta Prosecco di Cartizze, from Villa Sandi. It is a lovely Prosecco, very pale straw colored—an almost colorless sparkler—with an intense, fine, and persistent perlage. The palate is fresh, dry, and considerably smooth— very enjoyable. I usually have it as an aperitif or with appetizers. Another Italian charmer is the Piemontese Brachetto Fizz 56, highly aromatic with rose petals and strawberries on the nose and sweet black cherries, strawberries, and blackberries on the palate. Though a Brachetto is considered by most as an aperitif or dessert wine, I had it with a main course of magret de canard with a cherry glazing, and it was delightful. The romantic red color, fresh berry flavors, and complex, sweet finish, invite toasts to love and happiness. With only 7 percent alcohol, you can’t go wrong selecting it. California California has a long history in the sparkling wine business. Many of its sparkling wine producers are related to French Champagne houses. Talking about French influences, Mumm Napa Brut Prestige was a lovely sparkler produced in the traditional champenoise method and it delights with subtle aromas of apple, melon, and citrus, with firm acidity and a crisp structure. A blend of mostly pinot noir and chardonnay with a little pinot meunier and pinot gris, it is medium bodied, with excellent mousse and a rich lingering, slightly nutty finish. Another Californian sparkler that we had at
With notes of apple and honey wrapped in spice, this cava is great for the holidays.
the end of the tasting as it was solidly on the demi-sec side was Sofia, a Monterey County sparkling wine from the Francis Coppola vineyards. This medium golden Blanc de Blanc has a little less alcohol than its European brethren. It is smooth, with a delicate small bead and a bouquet of pears, melon, citrus, and tupelo honey. There is pronounced fresh bread crust and honey on the extended finish.
Chardonnay grapes on the vine.
Chile Finally, an interesting rosé sparkler that came to me from Chile: the Santa Digna Estelado Rosé from Miguel Torres. These wineries have been trying to resurrect almost extinct grape varieties that, for one reason or another, have disappeared from wine production, both in Europe and South America. This rosé is a sparkling wine made from 100 percent Pais grapes. Pais—commonly known as Mission grape or Negra Peruana—was imported to Mexico and Peru in the 16th century by Spanish missionaries following Hernán Cortés and other Conquistadores to produce sacramental wines. From Peru it was replanted in Chile for the same function. With the introduction of French varietals to Chile in the late 1800s Pais went out of favor and production of wines from the Pais grape stopped in the mid 1930s. Now the varietal has been resurrected and is used in making this unusual sparkling wine. To your health! Manos Angelakis is a wine and food writer in New York City. As the gastronomy critic for luxuryweb.com, he has spent many years traveling the world in search of culinary excellence.
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu Segura Viudas, Brut, Reserva Heredad, a cava from Penedés, Spain.
Morton’s World Trade Center
COURTESY OF SEGURA VIUDAS
Spain The next possibility is Segura Viudas, Brut, Reserva Heredad, a cava from Penedés, Spain. Made in the méthode champenoise from a blend of macabeo and parellada, it is for me a standby for festive occasions that do not require an extremely complex libation. It is a tête de cuvée, creamy and supple, considerably yeasty on the nose with apple and honey flavors wrapped in spice and minerals, lightly smokey with a slightly dry finish. Extremely well priced at $45 SRP for a magnum, it is a great bottle to have, very cold, especially for an afternoon in the summer. Another excellent sparkler comes also from Penedés’ Vilarnau winery. During my last trip to Catalonia, I tasted the Vilarnau Cavas at the winery and liked them all quite a lot. The Vilarnau Brut Nature Reserva was bright pale yellow with greenish highlights. Extremely dry, intense, and very pleasant on the nose with dominant aromas of green fruit—apple and pear—and a hint of toast. It is a libation that will excite most partakers with its long finish and well-balanced acidity. Another interesting version is the Brut Rosé,
COURTESY OF FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA WINERY
It is said that when the Benedictine friar Dom Pérignon pulled a bottle of his new wine from its resting place in his cellar, he popped it open for the first time and reportedly exclaimed, “Come quickly! I’m tasting stars!” That is an apocryphal story but we owe a great debt to the good friar for actually improving the creation of one of the best, most festive, and most delicious of wine products, the effervescent wine—also known as a sparkling wine. Sparkling wines from France’s Champagne region are now exclusively called Champagne and top the list of luxury wines consumed around the world, but excellent effervescent wines are currently produced in practically every wine producing area. Even though Champagne is the best known, there are other outstanding sparkling wines made in Spain (Cava), Italy (Franciacorta, Prosecco), and French areas other than Champagne (Mousseux or Crémant), not to mention nice sparklers from Germany, Austria, and the Czech Republic (Sekt), as well as the United States, Australia, South Africa, Chile, and Brazil. The entire family of French white or rosé sparkling wines is usually made in the traditional méthode champenoise from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier. The Spanish cava blend is made from indigenous Spanish white cultivars macabeo, parellada, and xarel.lo plus their blends. Effervescent Shiraz is made in Australia and a few other varietals and their blends are made in other parts of the world. Here I will start with the driest samples and move on to the off-dry possibilities. As a side note, it was only after the late 1920s that brut, or dry sparklers, became the taste standard. Before that, and especially when the good friar developed his wonderful wine, the much sweeter bottles were considered best.
gooseberry-colored with bright violet highlights. On the nose the wine has an attractive aromatic palette of ripe strawberries and raspberries with hints of yeast and exotic flowers. On the palate it is smooth, fresh, and creamy with hints of ripe blackcurrant fruit.
COURTESY OF FERRARI
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
Ferrari Perlé Trentodoc, a méthode champenoise sparkler from Trentino.
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com
D4
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
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鍔銗文人墨厢的 čŠŠćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ )
瞎
ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)
stuff to eat and drink around town during the holidays SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
MAISON KAYSER
The BĂťche Tentation from Maison Kayser.
Christmas time in France often means serving the traditional bĂťche de NoĂŤl. Maison Kayser makes three versions. Our favorite is the dramatic BĂťche Tentation, which is airy, light, and refreshing, perfect for ending a decadent holiday meal. It is pistachio cake with layers of blueberry meringue and crĂŠmeux, rasberry mousseline cream, and cassis compote with a raspberry glaze and white chocolate. Another bĂťche is a delicate and lovely marriage of chestnut and apricot, and the chocolate one is intense and rich, sure to please chocolate lovers. Maison Kayser, Manhattan locations maison-kayser-usa.com
HECHO EN DUMBO
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
thai
the modern experience THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY! 4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE
Get a taste of a traditional Mexican holiday feast, known as Noche Buena. Hecho en Dumbo will serve holiday dishes like Bacalao a la Vizcaina, cod with olives and potatoes in a cinnamon-accented tomato sauce; and Ensalada Noche Buena, a salad of beet, apple, jicama, and orange with pomegranate and walnuts. Warm up with a cup of Champurrado, a Mexican hot chocolate drink thickened with masa, or Ponche Navideùo, a warm punch that’s traditionally served at Christmastime. Through Wednesday, Dec. 23 Hecho en Dumbo 345 Bowery hechoendumbo.com
CHEFS CLUB Food and Wine magazine’s experimental restaurant Chefs Club invites different guest chefs every week to cook in its kitchen. Chefs Club’s Culinary Director Didier Elena is heading a team to serve a three-course holiday dinner with dishes like Foie Gras and Quince Terrine on toasted brioche, Venison Loin with kabocha squash and celery root, and Buche de Noel for dessert.
MILE END DELI This modern update on the Jewish deli is serving a Jewish Christmas dinner with quirky fusion Chinese dishes like Beef Tongue Dumplings, Hunan Fried Egg with Kewpie mayo, Xi’an Spiced Potatoes, and Chef Brian Corned Wings with spicy cumin aioli.
10 BLOCK RADIUS
Chef Alain Ducasse’s casual bistro promises a hearty, three-course Christmas dinner. Choose from Twice Baked Upside Down ComtÊ Cheese SoufflÊ; Filet Mignon with french fries and bordelaise sauce; and Quenelles De Brochet with nantua sauce and rice pilaf. Thursday, Dec. 24 & Friday, Dec. 25 5:30 p.m.–11 p.m. Benoit 60 W. 55th St. $85; $30 for children benoitny.com
BAGATELLE
Thursday, Dec. 24 & Friday, Dec. 25 5:30 p.m.–11:30 p.m. Chefs Club 275 Mulberry St. $98 chefsclub.com
FREE DELIVERY
BENOIT
Thursday, Dec. 24 & Friday, Dec. 25 Mile End Deli 97A Hoyt St., Brooklyn 53 Bond St., Manhattan $65 mileenddeli.com
This Meatpacking District hotspot is serving an Italian-French holiday dinner with Feast of the Seven Fishes Risotto; Homemade Linguine and Perigord Black Truffle Pesto; and Gianduja and Tahitian Vanilla Mousse. Friday, Dec. 25 Bagatelle 1Â Little West 12th Street $68 bagatellenyc.com
CHEF HUNG HUYNH AT SONS OF ESSEX “Top Chefâ€? winner Hung Huynh is hosting a Chinese-inspired Christmas Eve dinner at Lower East Side restaurant Sons of Essex. Dishes on the a la carte menu include Roast Duck Scallion Pancake, Roasted Branzino with Chili Garlic Sauce, and Double Cantonese Lobster, cooked in a wok with ginger, garlic, jalapeĂąo, and rice wine. To add to the Christmas spirit, the restaurant will be screening classic holiday films, including “A Christmas Story,â€? while dinner is served. Thursday, Dec. 24 6 p.m.–11 p.m. Sons of Essex 133 Essex St. sonsofessexnyc.com
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
v{iv} Bar & Restaurant
HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,*
BOULEY Acclaimed Michelin-starred chef David Bouley will craft six-course holiday tasting menus for his eponymous restaurant. Holiday menus are not pre-announced, as the chef enjoys taking inspiration from ingredients that are fresh and available at the time. Thursday, Dec. 24—Lunch: 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., dinner: 5 p.m.–11 p.m. Friday, Dec. 25—All day: 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Bouley, 163 Duane St. $135 lunch (+130 wine pairing), $255 dinner and all day (+$145 wine pairing) davidbouley.com
D5
@EpochTaste
December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com MICHAEL MARQUAND
COURTESY OF THE RINK AT ROCKEFELLER CENTER
BREAKFAST WITH SANTA AT THE RINK AT ROCKEFELLER CENTER The young and young at heart can sit down to a family-style breakfast with Jolly Ol’ Saint Nick and his elves at the Rock Center Café or The Sea Grill before heading out for an ice-skating session. The breakfast includes pastries, eggs, bacon and sausage, juices, coffee, and tea. Families get to take photos with Santa while elves offer a small gift. “New York comes alive in the winter,” said Nick Valenti, CEO of Patina Restaurant Group. “With the decorations and the spirit, people flock to the city this time of year. Breakfast with Santa is a wonderful way to enjoy the holidays with the whole household. It’s our own family tradition too, and the kids and grandkids always come to join us.” The Rink at Rockefeller Center Fifth Avenue (between 49th & 50th streets) Breakfast with Santa The Sea Grill, 19 W. 49th St. $115; $75 children Rock Center Café, 20 W. 50th St. $85; $55 children therinkatrockcenter.com/breakfast-with-santa
Breakfast with Santa at the Rock Center Café.
SUSHI SAMBA
Ice skating at The Rink at Rockefeller Center.
L’AMICO
COLICCHIO & SONS
This fusion Japanese-Brazilian-Peruvian joint will serve special seasonal dishes like Seared Long Island Foie Gras with toasted Peruvian panetón, Whole Roasted Poussin Adobado, and the Jingle Bell Sushi Roll with panko scallop, tuna, kale, and sesame aioli. Wash everything down with a Sesame Sour, a Japanese take on the classic cocktail.
Chef Tom Colicchio’s American restaurant will serve a fourcourse meal, starting with canapés, and followed with dishes like Roasted Duck with persimmon; Tokyo turnips and spiced jus; Garganelli pasta with lamb ragout, olive, and preserved lemon; and Chestnut Yule for dessert.
Thursday, Dec. 24 & Friday, Dec. 25 Sushi Samba, 87 Seventh Avenue S. sushisamba.com
Thursday, Dec. 24 From 5:30 p.m. Colicchio & Sons 85 Tenth Ave. $165; $75 for children
Thursday, Dec. 24 L’Amico, 849 Avenue of the Americas $125 per person lamico.nyc
EDI & THE WOLF Try an Austrian-inspired holiday dinner at the tavern Edi & The Wolf. Parties of four or larger can share a Whole Roasted Duck, cooked with apples, oranges, chestnuts, and prunes, and served with pretzel brioche, braised red cabbage, and marjoram jus. Enjoy it with a glass of their housemade mulled wine.
The Michelin-starred new American restaurant has a holiday tasting menu full of Christmas flavors like peppermint and seasonal ingredients like cranberries and sweet potatoes. The menu includes dishes like the whimsical Mistletoe with cranberry and kale; Sirloin en Croute with Brussels sprouts, sweet potatoes, and foie gras; and Candy Cane with pistachio, peppermint, and chocolate for dessert.
Thursday, Dec. 24 All locations Friday, Dec. 25 SoHo & UES only Boqueria boquerianyc.com
AQUAVIT The Michelin-starred Scandinavian restaurant is serving a traditional Swedish smorgasbord (buffet-style meal) on Christmas Eve. Dishes include herring, gravlax, cured meats, Swedish meatballs, and an assortment of salads. Wash it all down with a cup of glogg, Scandinavian mulled wine. On weekdays until Dec. 23, you can also enjoy a traditional Christmas meal for lunch. The three-course tasting Christmas Plate includes herring, gravlax, meatballs, Christmas ham, Vasterbotten cheese, and more.
MAREA Chef Michael White is serving fine, elegant Italian fare at his Michelin-starred restaurants. At Marea, enjoy a seafood-centric four-course meal with dishes like Nova Scotia lobster with burrata, eggplant al funghetto, and basil; Gnocchetti with ruby red shrimp, red chilis, and rosemary; and Tiramisu with espresso gelato. ANTHONY JACKSON
Thursday, Dec. 24, noon–11 p.m. Friday, Dec. 25, 1 p.m.–9 p.m. Marea 240 Central Park South $150 marea-nyc.com
Compiled by Annie Wu Epoch Times Staff
Marea’s Panna Cotta.
Chef George Mendes’s Portuguese restaurant, Lupulo, will be open on Christmas Eve to serve its regular menu and some Christmas specials on their seasonal menu. Try the Salt Cod Casserole with potatoes, olives, and eggs, or Lamb Leg cooked over charcoal with farro, fennel, and broccoli rabe. At Mendes’s Spanish and Portuguese-influenced restaurant, Aldea, a special three-course prix-fixe menu will be served. Thursday, Dec. 24 Lupulo, 835 Sixth Ave. 5 p.m.–11 p.m. lupulonyc.com Aldea, 31 W. 17th St. 5 p.m.–9 p.m. $85 aldearestaurant.com
Thursday, Dec. 24 5:30 p.m.–11:30 p.m. Piora 430 Hudson St. $175 pioranyc.com
BOQUERIA Tapas bar Boqueria has prepared a Spanishinflected holiday menu, with dishes like Calabaza con Mojo Canario, roasted butternut squash with spicy labneh, mojo verde, and hazelnuts; Paella de Langosta y Butifarra, lobster paella with housemade pork sausage, crispy Brussels sprouts, and picada sofrito; and Caballa a la Plancha, grilled Spanish mackerel with gigante beans, cauliflower, black aragon olives, and salsa verde.
LUPULO AND ALDEA
PIORA
Thursday, Dec. 24 Edi & the Wolf, 102 Avenue C $78 for party of four or more www.ediandthewolf.com
Chef Laurent Tourondel’s L’Amico will serve his take on the Italian holiday meal, Feast of the Seven Fishes, on Christmas Eve. Aside from fish (Wood Oven Baked Branzino), the seven-course menu will include Bucatini Pasta with lobster; Octopus and Shrimp Scampi; and Diver Sea Scallops with endive marmalade and caramelized tangerine.
Christmas Plate Through Wednesday, Dec. 23 Weekdays 11:45 a.m.–2:30 p.m. $52 Christmas Eve Smorgasbord Through Dec. 23 Noon–9 p.m. $95 Aquavit 65 E. 55th St. aquavit.org/holidays
Openings around town
Theo’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar Fish and seafood are the focus of Theo’s Restaurant & Oyster Bar on the Upper East Side. Executive chef Ryan Skeen deploys his craft, using local, organic, and sustainable products whenever possible. The menu features dishes such as Crab & Ricotta Dumplings with Aji Amarello; Grilled Swordfish with Maitake Mushrooms, Brussel Sprout Leaves, and Piquillo Pepper; and Moules Frites served with cilantro chutney and merguez sausage. A bright open kitchen, as well as a handful of counter seats, allows for a view of the chef in action. Open daily for dinner.
1048 Third Ave. (at 62nd Street) 917-475-1721 theosny.com
IT IS OUR DELIGHT TO SERVE YOU SIMPLE, ELEGANT, BEAUTIFUL, JAPANESE MASTERWORKS TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
See more Openings on D6
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
There are the restaurants you go to, and
The Restaurant You Go Back to.
I
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
The cinnamon roll donut is served with a spiced rum sabayon, pomegranatecranberry sauce, pumpkin ice cream, graham streusel, pumpkin Bavarian cream, pumpkin seed “brisée,” and meringues.
celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).
236 West 56th Street (212) 247-3491 www.patsys.com
Our Only Location!
Chef Thiago's CINNAMON ROLL DONUT
DECONSTRUCTED OUR FRIEND THIAGO SILVA IS A MAD SCIENTIST. IF YOU DIDN’T THINK SO BEFORE, YOU’LL UNDERSTAND AFTER WE DECONSTRUCT HIS CINNAMON ROLL DONUT. WHAT DO THIAGO’S DONUT AND RAVIOLI HAVE IN COMMON? EVERYTHING. SILVA HAS MANAGED TO SNEAK A CINNAMON ROLL INSIDE HIS DONUT. HE DREW FROM HIS EXPERIENCE MAKING FRESH PASTA TO CREATE WHAT IS BASICALLY A GIANT DONUT RAVIOLI. BOTH THE DONUT AND THE CINNAMON ROLL ARE MADE FROM THE SAME DOUGH.
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
We caught Catch’s pastry chef Thiago Silva red-handed contructing this donut.
IN THE KITCHEN AT CATCH, SOMETIMES IT’S HOT AND SOMETIMES IT’S COLD, SO SILVA HAS TO TOUCH THE DOUGH CONSTANTLY TO MAKE SURE IT’S PROOFED CORRECTLY. IT SHOULD BE LIGHT, AND WHEN HE SLIDES THE CINNAMON ROLL DONUT INTO THE OIL, IT SHOULD FLOAT ALMOST INSTANTLY.
IT’S ABOUT THROWING IT IN THE FIRE AT THE RIGHT TIME. IT’S TRICKY.
THE DONUT IS FRIED, BUT THE CINNAMON ROLL, NESTLED INSIDE, DOESN’T HAVE ANY CONTACT WITH THE OIL. INSTEAD, THE CINNAMON ROLL IS BAKED BY THE HOT STEAM TRAPPED INSIDE.
RUM AND WAR M SPICES—STAR ANISE, CLOVE, CARDAMOM, AND ALLSPICE—PERFUME THE CREAMY SABAYON THAT GETS POURED OVER THE DONUT.
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
CLASSICS with FLAIR
JUST CINNAMON AND SUGAR WON’T CUT IT FOR THIS CINNAMON ROLL. SILVA USES BUTTER, FLOUR, BROWN SUGAR, AND SOME JACK DANIEL’S FOR A GOOEY MIX THAT KEEPS IT MOIST DURING THE COOKING PROCESS. ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROB COUNTS/EPOCH TIMES SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Openings around town
Maman Tribeca Popular SoHo bakery Maman has opened an outpost in Tribeca. Just like the flagship location, it will showcase cuisine from the south of France, with creations from chef Armand Arnal—but this time it adds cocktails and dinner to its menu. The 2,000-square-foot location features a front area for coffee, pastries, and lunch to go during the day and transform into a cocktail lounge with small plates and French apéritifs starting at 5 p.m. The back “salle à manger” will offer full service dining starting next week and seats 40 guests. The space features charming antiques such as the front area benches, repurposed from French postal carts. Open daily, 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
211 Broadway (at Franklin) mamannyc.com
Kosaka
MADISON BISTRO
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
Chef Yoshihiko Kousaka (formerly of Jewel Bako) has set up an intimate sushi spot in the West Village at his new restaurant Kosaka with partners Key Kim and Mihyun Han. Kosaka has 18 seats—10 are at the wood counter. Guests have two omakase options: sushi ($125) and Chef’s Tasting ($155), which includes hot dishes. Open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner.
220 W. 13th St. (between Greenwich and Seventh avenues) 212-727-1709 kosakanyc.com
Tacos Grand Central Catering to cravings for authentic Mexican cuisine, Tacos Grand Central is branching out from its original location near Grand Central to open a second location in Kips Bay. The busy shop whips up popular, freshly made quesadillas, burritos, and of course, tacos, with filling options like grilled steak, chicken, or carnitas. The latter are made with lard, oregano, orange, and spices according to Poblano tradition. These are appropriately washed down with some Mexican cola, a refreshing horchata, or a hibiscus drink. Open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner. Delivers between First and Sixth avenues, and 12th and 42nd streets.
134 E. 27th St. (between Lexington & Third avenues) 212-889-9090 tacosgrandcentral.com
D7
@EpochTaste
December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF LAVAZZA
Natural
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Pandoro French Toast With Mascarpone Brown Sugar Cream.
Add a Festive Touch With Coffee
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
“Best Organic Soy Sauce” -Food and Wine Magazine
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff During the daily grind, coffee’s often a necessary pick-me-up, and during the holidays, the caffeinated boost also comes in handy— think of the nonstop shopping, cooking, and entertaining. But coffee can also add flavor and oomph to festive drinks and dishes. Debi Mazar and Gabriele Corcos, brand ambassadors for Lavazza coffee, use it in drinks like spicy hot chocolate coffee or mocha martini, or brunch dishes like Pandoro French Toast. Just make sure to remember one rule, they advise: no matter which method you use to make it, never pack your coffee. “Hot water has to flow through the coffee. If it gets hard for the water to pass through, the flavor will be altered and your coffee will taste real bitter,” said Corcos.
See the Lavazza Mocha Martini recipe at epochtaste.com And if you happen to use a Moka, remember the first coffee is always stronger and more concentrated. His grandmother, Nonna Lola, “would actually cheat and always steal the first coffee that was coming out of the machine since she was the one making it in the kitchen,” he said. The lighter half would go to her husband Renato.
www.wanjashan.com
RECIPE PANDORO FRENCH TOAST WITH MASCARPONE BROWN SUGAR CREAM Prep & Cooking Time: 25 minutes Serves: 4 Perfect for breakfast on Christmas morning with a cup of Lavazza coffee or cappuccino. For the French Toast
• 1 cup brewed Lavazza coffee, Santa Marta blend • 2/3 cup heavy cream • 4 eggs • 2 tablespoons sugar • Pinch of salt • Eight 1-inch slices Pandoro • 4 tablespoons butter For the Cream
• • • •
8 ounces mascarpone 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream 1/4 cup dark brown sugar Pinch of salt
DIRECTIONS In a large bowl, combine the coffee and heavy cream. Add eggs, sugar, and salt and whisk until fully combined. Meanwhile, heat a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat and add 1 tablespoon of butter. Quickly dip one end of the Pandoro into the batter, flip, dip the other side and transfer to the skillet. Cook each side until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Add more butter, as needed, to the skillet and cook the remaining Pandoro in batches. For the cream, combine all ingredients in a large bowl and whip to medium peaks with a hand blender. Alternatively, you can whip by hand or in a stand mixer. Note: It is imperative that you dip the Pandoro into the batter as quickly as possible.
EMILY STERNE PHOTOGRAPHY
RECIPE MING TSAI’S DIJON MEAT LOAF
DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 350 F. Oil a 1 1/2quart loaf pan and line the bottom with parchment paper or use a meatloaf pan.
In a small bowl, combine 2 tablespoons Dijon and 1 tablespoon of sambal and set aside. In a large nonreactive bowl, combine the ground turkey and pork. Add the onions, garlic, the remaining 1/4 cup of sambal, soy sauce, eggs, Worcestershire sauce, and panko. Season with salt and pepper and, using your hand, mix well. Fill the pan with the mixture, and bake until cooked through, about 1hour and 15 minutes. Unmold, slice, and serve with the sambal mixture on the side as a condiment.
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D8
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
The Last-Minute
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Subscription Boxes Deliver Surprises Skoshbox Skoshbox is perfect for those who love all things Japanese, or have a nostalgic soft spot for cutely packaged treats. Each month, the company curates a dierent set from Japan’s dizzying array of snacks—from addictively crunchy, savory-sweet rice crackers, to matcha-flavored biscuit sticks, to mochi-and-sesame-seedfilled chocolates. If you’re an avid snacker, their original Skoshbox of 8 to 11 snacks (most of them modest in size) might not last you the whole month. The Dekabox, double the original size, is a safer bet. Most of the snacks are sweet, with some more pleasing to the adult palate than others. In recent boxes we sampled, the chocolate-covered coee beans made an excellent afternoon pick-me-up, as did the chocolatecovered almonds peppered with bits of rock sugar. Others, like Hello Kitty marshmallows with matcha-flavored jelly and pop-out heartshaped chocolates, mostly win with their packaging. The adorableness doesn’t stop there—sometimes Skoshbox will throw in a free gift, like Pocky-shaped chopsticks and sushi-shaped erasers.
Treatsie Those with a more discerning sweet tooth will enjoy these collections of artisanal treats from around the country. Each box comes with three to six dierent products, all from smallbatch companies. We sampled a recent box that included gooey pecan-topped caramels covered in dark chocolate; salted caramel apple oatmeal cookies that tasted like biting into a rich apple pie; fantastically buttery toees from the International Chocolate Award-winning company Laurie and Sons; and a jar of apple and cranberry preserve that surprised us with its infusion of bay leaves (enjoyed on bread with some butter to balance the tanginess). At $19.95 per box, Treatsie leans on the pricier side, but it still costs less than buying the items separately. Getting the box is a great way to discover new artisanal goodies. $19.95 per box treatsie.com
$12 per box for Skoshbox $24 per box for Dekabox skoshbox.com 718-224-8505 # 39-32 Bell Blvd, Bayside, NY 11361 www.piurarestaurant.com COURT ESY OF SKOSHBO X
Not just for men. The ladies of Epoch Taste dug right in.
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Mantry Mantry sounds just like what it is: a pantry for men. Except that, well, gender aside, the box we happened to try contained some of the most intriguing finds we received, and women and men both found plenty to like. Six artisanal items, which come in a rustic and reusable wooden crate box (manly even down to the packaging!), are chosen according to a specific theme each month, and come with storytelling that’s fun to boot. The desertthemed box we received was filled with items from the American Southwest—jellies made from prickly pear (delicious), garlic-green chili pistachios (addictive), a roasted green chili sauce with a zip of lime juice and garlic, and a pancake mix from northern New Mexico made with blue corn and pine nuts (wholesome and nutty), and machaca, a traditional handmade, shredded, dried beef. The other was a wild sage and mint tea, which verily separated the wheat from the cha, or rather, those who could handle their tea (intense and herbal) and those who couldn’t. One gentleman tea lover colleague of ours said he could feel hairs sprouting on his chest as he drank. Prices per crate: 1 month, $75; 3 months, $225; 6 months, $450 mantry.com
D9
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF NATUREBOX
COURTESY OF TRY THE WORLD
Try the World Armchair travelers, here’s something for you to munch on. Celebrity chefs curate these boxes, filled with seven items from artisans around the world. Recipes, a playlist, and stories complete the package. Some items are ready-to-eat and others are to be used in recipes. The boxes are themed by country, with the exception of the special edition holiday box, curated by food personality David Rosegarten, which contains items from around the world—the olive oil from Israel was excellent with a peppery bite, and we especially liked the dried bilberries and lingonberries from Finland. $39 per box trytheworld.com
NatureBox Wholesome ingredients, free of GMO, artificial sweeteners or colors, are the basis of the nutritionist-approved snacks delivered by NatureBox. You can either pick five items—from a vast menu of over 100 snacks searchable by taste or nutrition profile—or choose to be surprised. If you don’t like a snack, you can get it replaced in your next box. We loved the addictive salt and pepper lentil loops (half the calories of chips but just as satisfying), summery dried California peaches (no sugar added), the superlative tender jerky (made with grass-fed beef and without preservatives), and the not-too-sweet dark cocoa nom-noms (with oats, cocoa, and vanilla). Best of all, it’s guilt-free snacking.
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Local Gifts
COURTESY OF WITH LOVE, FROM BROOKLYN
Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pomegranate Soju
Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.
With Love, From Brooklyn Leave it to Brooklyn artisans to produce intriguing versions of every product under the sun (mayonnaise, anyone?). With Love, From Brooklyn has subscriptions that you can gift, as well as gift sets. For bacon lovers, the “Brooklyn Bacon” gift set includes Roni-Sue’s Bacon Buttercrunch candy, Bacon Mayo from Empire Mayonnaise, red chili-garlic bacon spread from Bacon Jams, and Bacon Corn from Liddabit Sweets ($79). Another gift set, Brooklyn Heat, featuring Mike’s Hot Honey, Chili Lab Chili Salt, Empire Mayonnaise Sriracha Mayo, Brooklyn Grange Hot Sauce, and Jojo’s Sriracha, is perfect for those who love spicy foods ($75). $117 for a three-month subscription; prices for gift sets vary withlovefrombrooklyn.com
SOJU HAUS offers traditional, CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES
healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations. While traditional cocktails often deplete the
Sizzling Bulgogi
body of nutrients, SOJU HAUS mindfully pairs food and drink for a more balanced effect on your body.
Taste NY Taste NY stores across New York state are offering specialty gift baskets—either prepackaged or customized—with products all made in the Empire State. Items include a wide variety of specialty food items such as wines, liquors, candy, and snack foods. For example, there’s whiskey from Brooklyn’s Van Brunt Stillhouse, Candied Jalapeños from Little Bird in Queens, and wine from Sparkling Pointe. For the first time, stores are taking orders by phone and for delivery. In New York City, a Taste NY store is located at Grand Central Station across track 37 (212-663-2212). Taste NY also has a booth at the Grand Central Holiday Fair in Vanderbilt Hall.
Coconut Soju
What to Try Tonight... Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
212-213-2177 315 5th Ave. 2nd Fl, NY NY
SOJUHAUS.COM
Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
Prices vary taste.ny.gov
Try it with the Lemon Soju Seafood Pancake
Compiled by Channaly Philipp & Annie Wu Epoch Times Staff
Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine
Sunday – Wednesday 5:00 pm – 2:00 am Thursday 5:00 pm – 3:00 am Friday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 4:00 am
D10
@EpochTaste
December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Pastry chef François Payard in his kitchen at François Payard Bakery on Houston Street.
The Cookies That Time Forgot By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Pastry chef François Payard is a man who’ll skip dessert and spring instead for cookies and ice cream. His father, who owned a bakery, was the same way. Payard’s latest book “Payard Cookies” is dedicated to his memory. The family bakery in the south of France was one of the first to have a long display of ice cream cakes—made with raspberry sorbets, parfaits with kirsch, or frozen pineapple. “When you buy the [ice cream] cakes, what do you buy with them? Always cookies,” Payard said. “In the old days there were a lot of great cookies,” he added. “The French forgot a little bit about the cookies and became obsessed with macarons and American chocolate chip cookies, you know?” Friends who perused his new cookbook felt like they were taking a walk down memory lane. “Oh, I forgot about this one!” they
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UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
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Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
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THAI
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The French forgot a little bit about the cookies and became obsessed with macarons. François Payard, pastry chef
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com
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Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
KOREATOWN
SenYa
Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
EAST VILLAGE Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
D11
@EpochTaste
December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com would say. There are the so-called “dryâ€? cookies, such as crumbly sables, and “softâ€? ones like financiers. One of his father’s specialties, featured in the book, was the gommĂŠ, a cookie made with almond paste, egg whites, and an arabic gum glaze to seal the cookies after they came out of the oven to keep them soft. In the old days, you used to be able to walk into a French bakery to select cookies one by one and compose your own box. But those days are gone. At Payard’s bakeries, that practice ended as operations expanded. “Even in Paris, in most pastry shops you can’t select cookies one by one,â€? he said. “Everybody pre-packs because we all have the same problem. When you have too many shops, how can you control everything? The soft cookies, they have to be in the refrigerator no more than two or three days or they get dry. The hard cookies, during the summer they get soggy.â€? There’s also less appreciation for the skill it takes to make a beautiful cookie, he said, showing a photo of an exquisitely decorated cookie. “I used to love to have these beautiful cookies. I remember people were telling me, ‘Oh, $8 for a cookie!’ I told the lady, ‘Ma’am, if you make it, I buy for $10. It’s beautiful.’ “It takes time, it takes practice. A lot of people now don’t have piping skills anymore,â€? he said. “Everybody wants to be a pastry chef, but they want to go fast and forget about the details. If I have to do them all myself, forget about it. Now you can see there’s a lot of big companies doing cookies, but look at the refinement. It’s nothing like that.â€? “Payard Cookiesâ€? leans Gallic, but also has cookies from other traditions, especially Italian ones (the Italians, he pointed out, have not forgotten their cookies) and some German ones like the crescent-shaped kipfers. A feature of Payard’s cookies is that they are modest in size— just one or two bites at most. It’s a cookbook that is not meant to be a coffee table book. Payard hopes readers will make use of it. Payard personally loves the “dryâ€? cookies like sablĂŠs. He used to make them at Daniel when he worked there, but they were too fragile for his shop. The buttery cookies simply melt in the mouth. “Even a simple recipe with six or eight ingredients, you’ll say, ‘Wow, so simple and so good,’â€? he said.
By Orysia McCabe | Epoch Times Staff
“Payard Cookiesâ€? by François Payard (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30).
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Makes: 35 to 40 cookies Sometimes you want just a bit of chocolate, not too much of it; these cookies, which combine chocolate chips with candied orange and grapefruit peels, offer just that. They are very easy to make and can be frozen, and they have a sophisticated look and flavor, so they are ideal to make ahead and keep on hand for holiday entertaining or for unexpected visitors.
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2 1/2 cups (250 grams) almond flour 1 1/4 cups (250 grams) granulated sugar 4 large egg whites 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (50 grams) finely chopped candied orange peel • 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (50 grams) finely chopped candied grapefruit peel • 1/3 cup (65 grams) mini chocolate chips • 2 1/2 cups (215 grams) sliced almonds
Preheat the oven to 350 F (180 C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Pour the sliced almonds into a bowl. With your hands, roll the dough into quarter-size balls. Roll the balls in the almonds until
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they are completely coated, and place them on the baking sheet. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until the cookies turn a light golden brown color. Remove the cookies from the oven, let them cool completely on the baking sheet, then store them in an airtight container in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks, or freeze them, wrapped in plastic and in an airtight container, for up to 1 month. Text excerpted from Payard Cookies, Š 2015 by Francois Payard. Reproduced by permission of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. All rights reserved.
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DIRECTIONS In a food processor, grind together the almond flour, sugar, egg whites, candied orange peel, and candied grapefruit peel until the mixture is very smooth. Add the chocolate chips and process just until fully combined. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate until it is chilled through, about 1 hour.
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3 of 3
Recipes This week I tried out the recipes for the Chocolate-Chip Almond Balls and the German Kipfer cookies. The almond balls were a big hit—so many textures and flavors. Along with the mini-chocolate chips, there’s almond flour, candied orange, and grapefruit peel. The flavors subtly drift across your palate in a show that delights the taste buds. The cookie balls get rolled in sliced almonds just before you pop them in the oven, adding a note of sophistication. A friend stopped by shortly after the cookies came out of the oven and joined me in a tasting over a cup of tea. She thought they were rich yet light in texture, with clean and deliciously citrusy notes. And of course the chocolate was a bonus. “What an all-encompassing treat!â€? she said. “Kipfers,â€? or croissants in German, are traditional cookies. These little morsels are simple and contain only six ingredients. Almond flour and vanilla extract give them a delicate flavor. The dusting of confectioner’s sugar after they are baked adds a richness that’s fitting for the holiday season. In conclusion I would say that I have thoroughly enjoyed my adventure learning and baking from “Payard Cookies.â€? The book makes a great gift. The recipes are traditional ones that remind of the phrase, “Everything that’s old is new again.â€? So go traditional and create some new family memories for the holiday season— or any time you want a treat. Bon appĂŠtit!
CHOCOLATE CHIP-ALMOND BALLS
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This is the last in my three-part series on François Payard’s “Payard Cookies.â€? A feature of the book that I haven’t mentioned before is the sections that provide unique ways of filling and flavoring the cookies. There are sections on dierent types of pastes, fruit and dry ganaches, and candied fruit peels, all of which you can make yourself and use in the recipes for financiers, macarons, Calissons d’Aix, and gommĂŠs, among others. The last section on cookies in the book is called Calendar of Cookies. Here you will find gluten-free, gingerbread, and sugar cookies, as well as decorating ideas for the holidays throughout the year.
RECIPE
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Tips for Bakers “It will change your life if you use a scale,� said Payard, “because pastry is all about science.� He also uses Plugra butter, which has a higher butterfat content. If you use regular butter, he said, “it will be good, but it will be dry.�
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December 18–24, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
RECIPE CAULIFLOWER WITH GINGER AND PEANUTS Serves: 6–8 The mild and subtle cauliflower gets a new avatar in this simple dish. It’s a very good recipe for large groups, especially when you are serving meals buffet style. The creamy cheese dressing along with the crunchy, roasted peanuts is a perfect combination for the cauliflower.
Back to the Roots
Chef Vikas Khanna of Junoon shares contemporary, vegetable focused recipes in “Indian Harvest.�
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garden in Amritsar The Temple of Pearls. He remembers trying to grow cardamom, an expensive spice that he was not allowed to touch at home. One day, he took his opportunity. “I stole cardamom and took it to the soil to the back of my house and my question was, will cardamom grow?� The moment he came back from school he would go to the back and check—expecting a tree. “I didn’t know how it grew, there was no Google. I waited and waited—nothing! I used to feel guilty that I wasted those pods and could have eaten them.� It was years later that he visited a farm in Kerala and saw the plants, sprawling horizontally on the ground. “That’s why it’s so precious, only one region can do it,� he said. He has memories of his grandfather saying, “Nobody grew rich by plucking one potato and spending three months on it. You’re not going to be a rich man. You waste all this time in this little garden.� There was a lime tree; there were marigolds that his grandmother never plucked, saying they were like family. When he launched his catering company, he named it Lawrence Gardens. The site of the banquet hall was exactly in the same space. His business flourished and little by little, the garden disappeared: first the grass died, then a mango, and then Khanna’s favorite lime tree. Today the garden is paved over. “There was no one to maintain it,� he said. “Even if it’s gone it remains in my heart and mind.�
Fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium and add the cauliflower florets and salt to the pot. Cover with a lid and cook until the cauliflower is tender and cooked through, about 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and transfer to a platter and keep warm. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add ginger, turmeric, and half the scallions and cook, stirring for about a minute. Season butter with salt and pepper to taste and cook for another minute. Stir in the cream cheese and remove from the heat. Pour the cream cheese sauce over the cauliflower and serve hot, garnished with the peanuts and reserved scallions. Recipe from “Indian Harvest: Classic and Contemporary Vegetarian Dishes� by Vikas Khanna (Bloomsbury, October 2015, $35) COURTESY OF BLOOMSBURY
The photography is lavish and colorful. Spices are shown in their original plant form, looking like jewels of the earth. COURTESY OF BLOOMSBU
2 small heads cauliflower, cut into florets Salt to taste 2 tablespoons butter One 2-inch fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped 1 teaspoon turmeric 4 scallions, finely sliced Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1/2 cup cream cheese 1/4 cup roasted peanuts, coarsely crushed
DIRECTIONS
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Vikas Khanna grew up in Amritsar, India, where the backyard, a 3-foot by 10-foot patch of land, was a world unto itself. It was there that as a child he tried to see what would grow. The first little green tomato made him exuberant. He would measure the growing flowers with a ruler. In the middle of his excitement, he broke one. “That garden gave me sustenance because it made me feel like a really big farmer,â€? he said. “I wanted to be a farmer and I wanted to be a chef—I didn’t know what a chef was. I used the word cook.â€? Khanna, the corporate chef at the Michelinstarred Junoon, has made vegetables the focus of his latest cookbook, “Indian Harvest: Classic and Contemporary Cuisine.â€? It oers contemporary recipes and takes on some traditional dishes. Potato wedges, for example, are baked and seasoned with garlic, ginger, smoky cumin seeds, and tangy-sweet tamarind. A recipe for poriyal, a traditional Tamil stirfry dish with shredded coconut, is oered with split beans and yams, and perfumed with mustard seed and curry leaves, but like many other recipes in the book invites experimentation and substitution with other vegetables. The photography is lavish and colorful. An early section on spices shows them neither packaged nor in ground form but in their original plant form, looking like jewels of the earth. It’s no accident that Khanna called his
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