D1 December 25–31, 2015 Champagne Picks to
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Caramelized potatoes.
Sweet and sour red cabbage.
Roast duck with apples and prunes, from Darra Goldstein’s “Fire and Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking.” (See recipe on D3)
Nordic Holiday By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
T
he Danish have a word that describes the warm comfort you feel when surrounded by friends and family. “Hygge”—pronounced “hooga”—encapsulates the Nordic spirit of overcoming the brutal winter by sharing warmth with others. Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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“It doesn’t have a direct English translation. It’s this idea of comfort and coziness that’s predicated on being with people, not the kind of curling in bed by yourself or with your cat,” explained food writer Darra Goldstein. Goldstein is the author of the recently published cookbook, “Fire and Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking,” and has traveled extensively throughout the Nordic region, absorbing the culinary cultures of Denmark, Norway, Finland, and Sweden.
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December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Celebrating the holidays Nordic-style means feasting on a spread of dishes flavored with lots of dill, chives, and warming spices.
Nordic Holiday Nordic Holiday continued from D1
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
All that family, partying, and eating brought some energy back to the people. Morten Sohlberg, chefowner, Blenheim, Smorgas Chef
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Venture Into Thailand’s
Here in New York, we’ve yet to experience winter, with an uncharacteristically warm December. But inevitably, the days ahead will grow colder. When it comes to surviving the harsh cold, the Nordic and Scandinavian cultures know best. During the depths of the season, some places go several months without seeing the sun rise. Thus they’ve developed a rich tradition of cooking and enjoying hearty, nourishing food together with those they cherish most. Interest in Nordic cooking has exploded in recent years; in the world of fine dining, the success of restaurants like Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark (ranked as the world’s No. 1 restaurant several years in a row) sparked a movement in new Nordic cuisine. These restaurants employ traditional Nordic cooking principles, like gathering the freshest seasonal ingredients from the surrounding land and sea, to create inventive, intensely flavorful dishes. In New York, too, Nordic chefs bring their dedication to local ingredients and old techniques. Chef Morten Sohlberg of Blenheim and Smorgas Chef, runs an upstate farm that supplies the produce for his restaurants, while chef
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Smorgas Chef’s herring done four ways: pickled, in mustard, in dill and cream, and in tomato sauce.
Daniel Burns at the Michelin-starred Luksus at Torst, uses traditional preservation techniques to cure local East Coast seafood. Nordic Traditions So what dishes do Nordic people feast on when they celebrate? Seasonality lies at the center of Nordic cooking. “In Nordic countries, it’s something that’s built into the rhythm of life. Because the climate is so cold there, they have to gather and grow foods during the brief growing season, then preserve it for winter,” Goldstein said. The Nordic cuisine makes the most out of what the land and surrounding seas have to offer through different kinds of curing—pickling, brining, and fermenting. The “1-2-3 solution” is often used to pickle everything from herring to cucumbers: one part distilled vinegar, two parts sugar, and three parts water. The result is a sweet and sour taste that is characteristic of many Nordic dishes, Goldstein said. Foraging is also an important element of Nordic cuisine. In the summer, many locals search in the wild for berries, mushrooms, and herbs, sourcing cooking ingredients right from their backyards, said Goldstein. Berries foraged in the short summer— cloudberries, lingonberries, blueberries— are cooked with sugar to make jams, then stored for consumption through the winter. The classic dish of Swedish meatballs, often served at the Christmas dinner, must include a side of lingonberry preserves to add a touch of tart sweetness. In Norway, a traditional Christmas dessert is multekrem, slightly sweetened cloudberries stirred with whipped cream. Several of the Nordic countries allow for “all man’s rights,” whereby people are free to explore any forest or field across the country. “It’s the sense that the natural world is there for everyone to enjoy. It’s a really beautiful thing and I think it does help people connect [to the land], and to see the intensity of the seasonal changes,” said Goldstein. Seafood was historically an essential part of the diet, as the protein, vitamins, and omega-3 fatty acids provided nutrients in a climate where few vegetables were available. From Goldstein’s cookbook, she recommends an easy-to-make wintry dish that represents quintessential Nordic flavors: mussels with horseradish cream, which are steamed in aquavit, a Nordic spirit flavored with caraway (if you can’t find aquavit, you can substitute vodka).
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RECIPE ROAST DUCK WITH APPLES AND PRUNES (ANDESTEG MED ÆBLER OG SVESKER) Serves: 4 Christmas in August was the theme of a beautiful dinner we had at Bodil and Harry Wilson’s Berkshires house. Bodil prepared the special dishes she has made for Christmas Eve for half a century now: roast duck with fruits, caramelized potatoes (page 206), and sweet and sour red cabbage (page 208). She even brought out an embroidered table runner and decorated the house with julenisser—Christmas elves. Although the summer sun was still bright at 8 p.m., we closed the drapes, and the atmosphere turned so warming that we could imagine ourselves on a dark, wintry night. And sure enough, at the end of the meal, we opened the curtains to a starry sky. It was a lovely celebration, filled with earthy flavors and aromas and good cheer. I’ve played with Bodil’s recipe a little bit, using apple cider instead of water as the duck roasts to feature the apples so distinctive of Danish cuisine—and of the Berkshires. The prunes will make the filling sweeter; how many you choose to use will depend on the desired balance between sweet and sour.
Salmon gravlax, cured for 72 hours in aquavit.
• • • • • • • •
1 (6–pound) duck Salt 1/2 lemon 3 firm apples, peeled and cut into 8 wedges 15 to 20 prunes Freshly ground pepper 2 cups apple cider 2 teaspoons flour
DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 400°F. Remove the extra fat from the duck, along with the neck and gizzard. Cut off the wing tips. Rub the inside of the duck with salt and then with the lemon, squeezing the juice out into the cavity. Stuff the duck at both ends with the apples and prunes. Either sew the cavities shut with kitchen twine or close them with trussing skewers. Rub the outside of the duck generously with salt and pepper. Place the duck on a rack in a roasting pan, breast side down. Roast for 10 minutes, then turn the duck breast side up and roast for another 10 minutes. Duck has a lot of fat, and the high heat allows much of it to cook off. Lower the oven to 300°F. Remove the duck from the oven and pour the cider into the roasting pan. Roast the duck until the juices run rosy when the meat is pricked, about 1 3⁄4 hours.
Swedish Meatballs at Smorgas Chef.
Smorgas Chef’s Rosolli Apple-Beet.
Raise the oven to 450°F and roast the duck for 10 minutes more to crisp the skin. Transfer the duck to a carving board. Let the duck rest for 10 minutes before carving.
Finally, warming spices like cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, ginger, and saffron are used to bake many traditional pastries like ginger snaps and the saffron buns eaten on St. Lucia’s Day, a festival of light celebrated on Dec. 13 every year. Their golden-yellow color brightens the dinner table. Christmas Feast In the Nordic region, the Christmas holiday is a grand celebration that lasts over a week. Everything slows down, as people spend more time indoors with family. During a time of extreme cold and darkness, “all that family, partying, and eating brought some energy back to the people,” said Morten Sohlberg, chef-owner of Blenheim and the Smorgas Chef restaurants, which serve seasonal American and Nordic cuisines, respectively. Sohlberg recalls how when he was a child, his family would gather in their house outside Oslo, Norway, for the big Christmas dinner (celebrated on Dec. 24) prepared by his father. His task was to go down to the basement and grab the ingredients. “I really didn’t want to go down there, because there would be an entire carcass of a moose, hanging from the ceiling on chains, that was aging because it would be part of the Christmas meal. But to have a skinned whole moose, it really
looks like a scene out of a Freddy Krueger movie,” he said. Aside from the moose, Sohlberg said that a distinctive feature of the holiday meal is that many of the dishes are simmered or slow-cooked for a long time, “with a little more fat, very flavorful, [and] a lot of sweetness to some of the dishes, like lingonberries on the meat. That’s what appeals to me. They have all these qualities that enable you to survive a long, cold, and dark winter,” he said. Some of Sohlberg’s favorites are dishes served as part of the Swedish Christmas smorgasbord, a buffet-style meal. The Christmas meal, known as the julbord, features an enormous spread of cheeses, cured fish, pates, and richly indulgent dishes like pork belly (with a crackling rind) and Jansson’s Temptation, a potato casserole cooked with heavy cream and Swedish sprats that have been cured with sugar, salt, and spices. And of course, everything is washed down with glogg, a mulled wine that is mixed with spices and sugar. “You wake up a little bit, and you feel happy in the dark season,” Sohlberg said. For a Nordic-influenced holiday dinner, try the following recipe for a classic Danish Christmas dish, roast duck with apples and prunes.
HARMONY THE SPIRIT OF SUSHI ZEN TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
These tender meatballs are made with beef and pork from Blenheim Hill Farm.
While the duck is resting, make the gravy. Pour the pan juices into a fat separator to remove the fat. You should have about 1 cup of defatted pan juices. Place the roasting pan on a burner and deglaze it with a little water, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Pour about three-fourths of the pan juices into the roasting pan, reserving the rest. Place the flour in a small bowl and gradually add a little of the reserved pan juices, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Add the remaining reserved pan juices, then whisk this mixture into the juices in the roasting pan. Cook the gravy over mediumlow heat until it has thickened, a few minutes. With a large spoon, scoop the apples and prunes out of the duck and transfer to a serving bowl. Carve the duck into thin slices and place them on a platter. Serve with the fruit stuffing and a pitcher of the gravy. Reprinted with permission from Fire + Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking, by Darra Goldstein, copyright © 2015, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.
See Goldstein’s recipe for Blueberry Tosca Cake on D6
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December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF SUSHI ZEN
CLASSICS with FLAIR
stuff to eat and drink around town
SUSHI ZEN For the holiday season, the upscale Japanese restaurant has a new kaiseki menu with offerings like wild yellowtail shabu shabu; mashed tofu with apples and shiitake; and fugu sushi, made from the infamous pufferfish (the poison is removed during preparation). Holiday hours: Dinner, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. (closed Dec. 31).
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
Available now 108 W. 44th St. sushizen-ny.com
Dishes on Sushi Zen’s new kaiseki menu.
LE BERNARDIN
NERAI
Treat yourself to a New Year’s Eve dinner at chef Eric Ripert’s three-Michelin-starred Le Bernardin. The chef has prepared a special holiday tasting menu with his signature dishes, like King Fish-Caviar served in marinière broth, Langoustine with foie gras mache and white balsamic vinaigrette, and Lobster with chestnut mousseline and Persian lime sauce. Top off the meal with Slow-Roasted Pear with beurre noisette, or Baba Au Scotch, served with caramelized banana and black walnut ice cream. $240 per person.
For a Mediterranean New Year’s Eve feast, head to Nerai for a threecourse prix fixe menu with dishes like Lobster Pasta, Grilled Whole Lavraki (European seabass), and Tuna Tartare. If you’re more in the mood for partying, Nerai will have a four-hour open bar while DJ Dino spins. $150 for prix fixe per person, $125 for open bar per person. Thursday, Dec. 31, from 9 p.m. 55 E. 54th St. nerainyc.com
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
COURTESY OF BRUSHSTROKE
Monday, Dec. 28—Thursday, Dec. 31 155 W. 51st St. le-bernardin.com
MISS LILY’S Celebrate New Year’s in the Caribbean style at Miss Lily’s. Enjoy dishes like Hot Pepper Lobster with scotch bonnet sauce, Asian greens and jasmine rice; Jerk Pork Shoulder with sweet plantains and mango chutney; and Steamed Loup de Mer with okra and coconut lime sauce. The menu will be served a la carte until 9 p.m. and prix-fixe after 9 p.m. There will also be music and a champagne toast at midnight. On New Year’s Day, brunch will be served, with options like Coconut Pancakes and the Hangover Helper juice, made of coconut water, blueberries, and pineapple. $75 for prix-fixe dinner per person. Thursday, Dec. 31 & Friday, Jan. 1 132 W. Houston St. & 109 Avenue A misslilysnyc.com
COURTESY OF HAKKASAN
Soy Sauce Ice Cream.
BRUSHSTROKE Chef David Bouley’s Japanese kaiseki restaurant is serving a six-course tasting menu on New Year’s Eve. For the second seating, an eight-course tasting menu will be accompanied by a champagne toasting at midnight, and live music performances on the shamisen, a traditional Japanese string instrument. First seating: 5 p.m.—6:30 p.m., $150; second seating: 8:30 p.m.—10:30 p.m., $250. Thursday, Dec. 31 30 Hudson St. davidbouley.com/brushstroke-main
SESSANTA
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
Restaurateurs John McDonald and Steven Eckler’s Sicilian-inspired restaurant, Sessanta, will ring in the New Year with a four-course menu featuring Lobster Risotto with Acquerello rice and tarragon, Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Ravioli with white truffles, and Beef Short Ribs with bone marrow dumplings and potato puree. A jazz trio will provide live music. $125 per person. Thursday, Dec. 31 60 Thompson St. sessantanyc.com
Hakkasan’s Crispy Duck Salad.
HAKKASAN
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more)
Michelin-starred modern Cantonese restaurant Hakkasan’s New Year’s Eve prix-fixe menu will satisfy both meat and vegetarian eaters. Enjoy upscale takes on Chinese dishes, like Foie Gras Pipa Duck, Seared Wagyu Beef, and Vegetarian Chicken in Black Pepper Sauce. Wash down your meal with baijiu (Chinese distilled liquor), sake, and Japanese whiskeys from the restaurant’s rare spirits collection. $168 per person. Thursday, Dec. 31 311 W. 43rd St. hakkasan.com
6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
DUET This charming Greenwich Village spot is serving a family-style dinner and unlimited champagne all evening. To start off, there will be passed hors d’oeurves like Kobe Steak Tartare and Lardon Salad. Main courses include Duck Breast, Chilean Seabass, and Rack of Lamb. Thursday, Dec. 31 37 Barrow St. duetny.com
GOTHAM BAR & GRILL This fine dining destination in the West Village will have two seatings on New Year’s Eve, one with a four-course menu and another with five courses. Both menus carry its signature New American touch: Poached Maine Lobster with sevruga caviar, celeriac custard, mango, avocado, golden beets, and yuzu emulsion; Dover Sole with rainbow carrots, shaved Brussels sprouts, marble potatoes, and lemon browned butter sauce; and Celeriac VeloutÊ with spiced pear custard, seared fois gras, and pomegranate. First seating, $130 per person; second seating, $325 per person. Thursday, Dec. 31 12 E. 12th St. gothambarandgrill.com
SALVATION TACO Michelin-starred chef April Bloomfield’s Mexican tacqueria restaurant is celebrating with a tiki-style party. New Year’s Eve specials include Duck Tamale with sweet potato masa colada, roasted duck, and cracklin; SlowRoasted Pork Shoulder Feast with charred pineapples and avocado salsa; and cocktail specials like the Rum Resolution, a take on Planter’s Punch. A live DJ will be spinning while the Times Square ball drop party is broadcast. Thursday, Dec. 31 145 E. 39th St. salvationtaco.com
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December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com MICHAEL TULIPAN
MAITE
thai
the modern
Bushwick, Brooklyn’s latest hip restaurant is Maite, which blends Columbian, Basque, and Italian influences. On New Year’s Day, they are previewing their brunch menu, to be served regularly in January. Offerings include the Puchero, a soup with potatoes, yucca, beef, pork, and chicken; the Maite burger, with local mozzarella, soft-boiled egg, and mustardseed-and-pickle aioli; and Duck Egg on a Colombian arepa with gouda and manteca, a Spanish sauce made from butter, lard, and smoked paprika. Wash your meal down with Colombian lager or sparkling cider from Basque country. Friday, Jan. 1, 11 a.m.—5 p.m. 159 Central Ave., Brooklyn maitebushwick.com
MINTON’S This storied jazz club in Harlem is serving a New Year’s Eve dinner by executive chef JJ Johnson. Enjoy a performance by R&B singer Alyson Williams as you feast on a four-course menu with dishes like Braised Short Ribs and Pan Roasted Salmon with date eggplant puree, sautÊed carrots,
experience THE BEST NORTHERN THAI IN THE CITY! 4 STARS ON YELP! & GOOGLE The Maite Burger.
caviar, and chorizo vinaigrette. After midnight, the restaurant will host a late night funk party. First seating: 5 p.m.—8 p.m.; second seating: 9:30 p.m.—12:00 a.m.; late night funk party: 1:30 a.m.— 3:00 a.m. Thursday, Dec. 31 206 W. 118th St. mintonsharlem.com
FREE DELIVERY
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RIVERPARK Chef Tom Colicchio’s Riverpark is serving a fourcourse dinner on New Year’s Eve, with dishes like Sweetbreads and Cotechino with beluga lentils, hakurei turnips, and black truffles; Pekin Duck Breast with black trumpet mushrooms and
quince; and White Chocolate Namelaka, a creamy Japanese treat served with champagne sorbet, gingerbread, and tangerine. $250 per person. Thursday, Dec. 31, 7 p.m.—10 p.m. 450 E. 29th St. riverparknyc.com
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists
VELLA WINE BAR AND KITCHEN This Upper East Side wine bar is hosting a la-dolcevita-themed party. Choose from sitting down for dinner, or just getting access to the open bar. The four-course prix fixe includes options like burrata
and prosciutto for starters; Seared Filet Mignon with shiitake mushrooms and potato gratin for the main course; and tiramisu for dessert. $150— $250 per person. Thursday, Dec. 31, 9 p.m.—3:30 a.m. 1480 Second Ave. vellanyc.com
NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night
v{iv} Bar & Restaurant
HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,* COURTESY OF WINE DISCIPLES ENOTECA
WINE DISCIPLES ENOTECA Enjoy great food and wine at this Chelsea spot, where a multicourse menu will include Potato Croquettes with Caviar, Tagliatelle with white truffles, and DryAged Strip Steak with marrow. First seating: 7 p.m., $95 per person; second seating with Champagne toast: 9:30 p.m., $105 per person.
ĺ–„
鍔銗文人墨厢的 čŠŠćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ )
瞎
ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)
Thursday, Dec. 31 129 W. 29th St. winedisciplesenoteca.com
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty
Dry-Aged Strip Steak with Marrow.
QUALITY EATS The newly opened casual steakhouse from restaurateur Michael Stillman is serving a New Year’s Day brunch and dinner with an a la carte menu. There are meaty dishes like Short Rib Hash with Tabasco hollandaise, healthy dishes like Coconut Quinoa with banana, marcona almonds, black sesame, and cherries, and a Large Format Cinnamon Bun for dessert. Friday, Jan. 1 19 Greenwich Ave. qualityeats.com
South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine
JUNI Chef Shaun Hergatt will be serving his take on New American cuisine at Juni. Dishes on the prix fixe menus include Nantucket Bay Scallops with Kristal Caviar, Lamb Tenderloin with Hyssop Pesto, and Peekytoe Crab Agnolotti with Sea Urchin. First seating: 6 courses, $165; second seating: 8 courses, $195.
Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
Thursday, Dec. 31 12 E. 31st St. juninyc.com
COURTESY OF THE PIECAKEN SHOP
THE PIELOGEN FROM PASTRY CHEF ZAC YOUNG In charge of bringing dessert to the holiday party? Executive pastry chef Zac Young of the David Burke Group has created a new line of pastries that consist of a pie inside a cake. For the holiday season, Young created the PieLogen, a toffee pecan pie, eggnog cheesecake, and chocolate caramel yule log all in one, layered together with chocolate buttercream frosting. The treats are currently only available for pick up at the David Burke fabrick restaurant inside the Archer Hotel. $65. Available now David Burke fabrick The Archer Hotel 47 W. 38th St. thepiecakenshop.com
212-594-4963 The PieLogen. Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Sta
10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
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December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com STEFAN WETTAINEN/COURTESY OF TEN SPEED PRESS
Chefs on Loving (or Hating) Winter and Their Favorite Winter Foods By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
COURTESY OF EMMA BENGTSSON
I will do whatever it takes to be outside to enjoy the snow, even if I have to look like the Michelin Man.
RECIPE
Emma Bengtsson, executive chef, Aquavit
BLUEBERRY TOSCA CAKE (BLABARSKAKA MED TOSCATACKE) Makes: One 9-inch cake
3 eggs 1 cup sugar 1 1/4 cups flour 1 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, melted 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 cups fresh blueberries
For the Topping
• • • • •
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, melted 1/2 cup sugar 2 teaspoons flour 1 cup sliced almonds 1 tablespoon heavy cream
DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of a 9-inch springform pan with parchment paper, then butter the parchment paper and the sides of the pan. In the bowl of a stand mixer, beat the eggs and
the sugar on medium high speed until pale and light, 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a small bowl. Add the melted butter and vanilla and then the flour mixture to the eggs, beating just long enough to combine. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly. Scatter the blueberries evenly over the batter, pressing them down to the bottom of the pan. Bake the cake until puffed and golden at the edges and just barely done, 50 to 55 minutes. Ten minutes before the cake is done, make the topping. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Combine the sugar and flour in a small bowl, then stir into the melted butter in the pan, along with the almonds and cream. Remove the cake from the oven and raise the temperature to 400°F. Simmer the prepared topping until bubbly, about 3 minutes, stirring only once or twice so you don’t break the nuts. Quickly spoon the topping over the warm cake, spreading it evenly to the edges of the pan with a small spatula. Bake until the topping is golden and crisp, about 10 minutes more.
Glogg (mulled wine) is without a doubt my favorite beverage. In Sweden we actually buy our glogg as there are many reputable producers of it. Blossa is a very popular brand and each year, they have a flavor of the year, everything from sea buckthorn to blueberry. I just saw that this year’s flavor was Earl Grey, which sounds quite lovely. As far as my favorite winter foods, I’d say cabbage and pork belly. We eat three dierent kinds of cabbage dishes during the holidays: red wine-braised cabbage, caramelized cabbage, and green cabbage (kale) in cream sauce. The pork belly can be served with the cabbage, or the fat can be used to add extra flavor to it. I hate the cold. But I love the snow so I’ve learned to deal with it. Basically, I will do whatever it takes to be outside to enjoy the snow, even if I have to look like the Michelin Man with lots of layers of clothing.
INNAKOTE/ISTOCK
Toscakaka is one of Sweden’s classic cakes, supposedly named to honor Puccini’s beloved opera. It’s a staple at pastry shops throughout the country, usually presented as a buttery slice of sponge cake with a crisp almond topping. And the ubiquitous version is definitely appealing. But I tasted something different at a charming bakery called Bagarstugan in Mariehamn, in the Aland Islands. Bagarstugan is housed in the city’s second-oldest building, dating from 1866. It’s filled with appealingly mismatched antiques, and the bakers there make Tosca Cake with fruit, the offerings changing with the seasons. I was happy to be there during blueberry time. That cake’s deliciousness came rushing back to me one day when I discovered a recipe for Bagarstugan’s Rhubarb Tosca Cake in Kenneth Nars’s Alandsk Matguide. I tweaked it a bit and added blueberries. Here is the divine result.
• • • • • • • •
Emma Bengtsson, executive chef, Aquavit
Berselius says Christmas should always start with glogg and gingersnaps.
COURTESY OF FREDRIK BERSELIUS
Cool the cake on a rack for at least 10 minutes before removing the ring of the springform pan. This cake is delicious warm or at room temperature. Variations In the winter I make this cake with cranberries. Substitute one 12-ounce bag of fresh or frozen cranberries for the blueberries. Toss them with 1 tablespoon of sugar before beginning to prepare the cake. Proceed with the recipe. For Rhubarb Tosca Cake, substitute 2 stalks of rhubarb for the blueberries. Trim them and cut into 1 â „2-inch pieces, then toss them with 2 teaspoons of sugar. Proceed with the recipe.
Fredrik Berselius, chef and owner, Aska
Reprinted with permission from Fire + Ice: Classic Nordic Cooking, by Darra Goldstein, copyright Š 2015, published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.
Growing up in Sweden I loved winter and I still love it today. Something about the short days, it being dark and cold, and how the snow on the ground helped make short
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We specialize in authentic New Orleans food—seafood gumbo, jambalaya, and Cajun seafood boil. We serve incredible Northeast steamed lobster & seafood and have an amazing selection of raw items—oysters, clams, shrimps and chilled lobster, king & snow crab legs.
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December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com days lighter, and how everything around you turned peaceful and quiet. With a white sheet covering trees and houses, everything looks beautiful, and I always found it powerful and somewhat mysterious. You would wake up in the morning and walk outside and you might see traces and footprint of animals that you had never actually encountered during the day when the sun was out. Depending on how much snow fell, houses and roads transformed, and it presented a challenge that made you feel very alive. When you are presented with a situation where you are one against or with nature, and you have to listen to your hardwired instinct, everything is put into perspective. It being cold outside also made eating or cooking hearty foods and drinks even more enjoyable. When you are indoors in the winter and it’s getting dark outside, and you see the temperature continuously dropping on the outdoor thermometer on the outside of your window, you appreciate the fact that you have a home and roof over your head and food to eat and a kitchen to cook it in. Celebrating the holiday season and Christmas was something that was reflected through everyone’s homes and in school and with everything that goes with it. Since moving to New York I have tried to hold on to the traditions and dishes that made the cold times of the year more special. Christmas was all about food and cooking. On Christmas Eve itself we always started with glogg and gingersnaps early around 2 p.m.–3 p.m. and soon after transitioning into dinner around 3 p.m. We probably did not finish eating until late in the evening, with dinner ending around 9 p.m., and after dinner, candy and drinks around midnight. When we cook at the restaurant and approach an ingredient, we look to those elements where food and a feeling meet. In the restaurant, we want to bring the guest closer to that time in nature or that holiday or special memory or moment that occur around us all the time but that we often are too busy to reflect on or even notice. Winter food traditions in Sweden influence me by cooking heartier foods and things that are fun to eat with a group of family and friends. We will put a hot spirit or cocktail on the drink list and just cook food that we would want to eat coming inside from the cold.
Natural
[One of my favorite winter dish is] Jansson’s Temptation: a gratinated potato dish with anchovy or herring and allspice. I always make meatballs for Christmas—probably the only time of year that I make them. People have their own recipes and slight variation what they think is the right size or exact flavor. And for drinks, snaps—infused liquor that we drink in shots together with the meal; glogg served hot with almonds and raisins; and Jul must, something in between a coke and root beer. COURTESY OF DANIEL BURNS
has a new flavor OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere. Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
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A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
Daniel Burns, Chef and partner, Luksus at Torst [One of my favorite dishes is] Aebleskiver, or fritters. It literally translates to apple slice. It’s like a small ball of batter. You use a special pan to cook it, and it’s done in sweet and savory versions. Pickling is something we do a lot here at the restaurant and the bar. We have a lot of seafood on the menu, which we pickle, salt, and cure in some way. We use fluke, oysters, and mackerel. We don’t have fresh herring here, so we use mackerel. It’s a similar fatty fish that works well for pickling. Another thing we do at the bar is we make the traditional Danish rye bread, which is something the Danes eat every day for lunchtime. It’s something unique for our customers to try for the first time.
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores.
www.wanjashan.com
Chef Magnus Nilsson’s ‘Nordic Cookbook’ If you’re looking to try Nordic cooking at home, chef Magnus Nilsson’s 600-plus-page opus on the subject covers everything you need to know. Nilsson, head chef at the renowned Faviken Magasinet in Sweden, compiled over 700 recipes while traveling throughout the Nordic region and learning from locals in each country. Dishes are prefaced with an introduction about their history and background, and the book covers the whole range—from the easily executable, like open-faced Danish sandwiches, to the more challenging, like Greenland’s seal soup. Nilsson also explains traditional curing techniques and preparation methods, with illustrations to walk you through the multiple steps. But he doesn’t just cover classic dishes; you might be surprised to find that Nordic hot dogs are a popular contemporary street food. Peppered throughout the enormous volume are vivid photographs from Nilsson’s travels. (Phaidon, October 2015, $49.95) ERIK OLSSON
At 600plus pages, Nilsson’s cookbook is encyclopedic.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
D8
@EpochTaste
December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
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150 W. 49th St. 646-921-7777
The trend in seafood is to eat lower on the food chain.
Tiny fish, tart plums, and coconut syrup. Ready for a taste of 2016? Since we’re all a little tired of hearing about bacon, Brussels sprouts, and cauliflower steaks, let’s look forward to some of the flavors and foods that will be popping up in the coming year. It’s not so much that these foods are radically new (bacon certainly wasn’t). Rather, that they are edging toward a critical mass, making them more common on restaurant menus and easier for home cooks to find. Ready to eat? Little Fish Two things going on here. First, the trend in seafood is to eat lower on the food chain. It’s good for the oceans; it’s good for the fishing industry. Second, we’ve all become slaves to umami (the flavor best described as “savoryâ€?), and little fish—and the products made from them—tend to be umami bombs. So expect to see lots of anchovies and sardines, and expect to see them in starring roles. Because we’re moving way beyond Caesar dressing and anchovy butter. New York City chef Seamus Mullen puts them front and center at his Tertulia restaurant, where the “tosta matrimonioâ€? tops crisp bread with black and white anchovies and slow-roasted tomatoes. Meanwhile, recipes for grilled or marinated sardines have practically become fixtures in the monthly food magazines. More importantly, the quality of what’s available at the grocer has improved. Skip the canned tuna aisle and head for the seafood counter, where you’ll find refrigerated white and black anchovies (some of them deliciously marinated), as well as fresh and smoked sardines. Or look for tiny bottles of colatura, a liquid anchovy extract that is Italy’s answer to Asian fish sauce. Drizzle that over fresh pasta and dust with grated Parmesan. Not sure what to do with your anchovies? Your best bet: nothing. As long as you’re buying the good ones (Fruits de Mer is a fine choice), just pop them on seeded crackers or toasted baguette, then enjoy. If you buy the cheaper ones, just heat them in a skillet with some olive oil and garlic. They’ll melt away into a sauce. Them toss in broccoli florets, cooked pasta, and grated pecorino. Done. Seaweed Sure, there was a lot of hype this year about the new seaweed that supposedly tastes like bacon, but I’m not holding my breath for that. Because in the meantime we have nori, the seaweed that often is pressed and dried in sheets, then used to wrap maki-style sushi. But it can do much more, and folks are starting to wake up to that. First, try it as an almost calorie-free potato chip substitute. No, seriously. Typically marketed as “seaweed snacksâ€? and sold in single serve packets, these graham cracker-sized sheets of nori are crispy, salty, and addictive. They also come in dierent seasonings, such as teriyaki and wasabi. You’ll usually find them alongside the other Asian ingredients. Nori also is being turned into condiments. Combined with sesame seeds and salt, it’s called furikake. Or there is the Sea Shakes line of seaweed seasoning blends, which combine kelp, dulse, and nori with garlic, lemon peel, and rosemary (among many others) with delicious results. Try any of them over roasted vegetables, cooked chicken, or rice and other grains. Also use them to dress up soft goat cheese or hummus. Alternative Sugars Avoiding high-fructose corn syrup is getting a little easier, in part because a growing number of soda companies are returning to pure cane syrup. But there also are other changes to the sweetener world that are worth noting.
YU
ME
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Sour-salty umeboshi plums.
YASUHIROAMANO/ISTOCK
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Heading Into 2016, Some Ingredients to Watch for and Taste
Seaweed is being turned into condiments.
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Of particular interest is the growing selection of natural sweeteners made from alternatives to either cane or corn. Agave syrup (also called agave nectar) is the juggernaut here. Available in numerous varieties and grades, it is made from the sap of agave plants (tequila is made from a dierent part of the plants) and has a clean, sweeter-thanhoney flavor. And that’s just the start. There also are sweeteners made from coconut (both syrups and granulated), barley, brown rice, dates, and—my new favorite—apples. Each has a different flavor profile, though most lean toward neutral. Many of these work well in baking and for making dressings, marinades, and sauces. My personal favorite? I use agave or apple syrup in place of simple syrup when mixing cocktails. Unlike honey, these mix easily. And deliciously. Umeboshi Plums These are the fruit of the ume (pronounced OOmay) tree (a relative of the rose). They resemble small apricots, but they can’t be eaten raw. That’s why most of them are salted, fermented, and dyed red using shisho leaves. The resulting “plumsâ€? have an intensely sour-salty flavor that can be weirdly addictive. They usually are sold whole, as a paste, or as a vinegar. In traditional Japanese cooking, umeboshi (OO-may-BOSH-ey) are eaten straight up as you would pickles, or are served inside balls of rice that are wrapped in nori (see what I did there?). The vinegar is used to season vegetables. But I’ve been seeing umeboshi showing up in unusual places lately. The vinegar is great in marinades and dressings; it also makes great pickles. Try it sprinkled over a bean and quinoa salad with avocado and shrimp. The plums (remove the pits) or paste are great pureed into sauces and rich gravies. The flavor gets along particularly well with bitter greens and broccoli. Or for all manner of fun, start popping them into cocktails. Vodka, lime juice, ginger, simple syrup, and an umeboshi plum shaken with ice is quite nice.
Grains and Legumes This has been building for a couple years now. It all started with the quinoa craze. Now all sorts of crazy grains and legumes (or seeds masquerading as them) have been popping up. And so we have farro and te, millet, and triticale, not to mention more common wheat berries and rye berries being cooked and consumed straight up (rather than turned into flour). But there also are other changes in this niche. First, the sprouted phenomenon. Many grains and legumes are being briefly sprouted (germinated) before being dried and packaged. The result is a slightly sweeter, nuttier flavor. Second—and even more profound—is ease. As in, companies have gotten wise to the fact that more people would eat more legumes is they were easier to prepare. Fava beans, AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD for example, are a pain to prep. But Melissa’s now sells them fresh-packed (in the refrigerated produce section) already peeled and steamed. You just open the package and use as desired (no cooking or peeling needed). They’ve done the same thing for lentils and black-eyed peas. And then there are the flours. No doubt stirred by all the interest in gluten-free foods, many companies now produce bean flours, such as black bean flour, fava bean flour, and chickpea flour. They are a delicious way to play around with recipes, and work particularly nicely in crackers and dumplings. Try chickpea flour in a batter for vegetable tempura. From The Associated Press
D9
@EpochTaste
December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
Ring In the New Year With These Champagnes
WITH SONGKRAN New Year’s Eve
4-Course Prix-Fixe Dinner for 2 $79 including drinks*
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
at our restaurant.
Not sure which Champagne to pick to ring in 2016? We asked James Beard Award-winning sommelier Belinda Chang, director of wine and spirits at Maple & Ash in Chicago, for her picks. “Though I think that every day brings moments that should be celebrated with Champagne, the end of another year is certainly an important moment to mark with a celebratory bottle,” she said. Here are some of her favorites from the cellars at Maple & Ash:
Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2004 My desert island wine is definitely the uberdecadent Champagne from Salon, a single vineyard, 100 percent chardonnay Champagne from the Le Mesnil vineyard in the Côtes des Blancs. When my credit card just can’t stand the assault of that wine, I buy a bottle from the little sister of Salon, Delamotte. This delicious all-chardonnay cuvée satisfies my need for a racy bubbly.
Countdown Party
Lounge, drinks and countdown to 2016** $35 per person with unlimited drinks*
Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Rose 2004 I have always loved the story of one of the first power female businesswomen, the widow Clicquot, who took over her husband’s business in 1805 at the age of 29. The prestige cuvée from this legacy Champagne maison is a stunner, lush pinot noir character, and all of the bells and whistles that come along with ageing on the lees. This is pure luxury in a glass.
COURTESY OF VEUVE CLICQ UOT
Serge Faust Carte d’Or This producteur-récoltant is based in Vandières in the Marne and produces this unique pinot meunier-based cuvée, which I love. Vinous, bright, and crisp, this is a delightful apéritif-style Champagne and also does its duty with a coal-roasted shellfish platter
WELCOME 2016
*
Limited to drinks on the NYE Drink List ** from 10:30pm-Midnight
SONGKRAN
NO MSG
Openings around town
Homestyle Thai Kitchen
330 8th Avenue • SongkranKitchenNYC.com ASHLEY SEARS/ISTOCK
Crave Fishbar Upper West In addition to an existing location in Midtown, owner Brian Owens and chef Todd Mitgang are opening a second location of Crave Fishbar on the Upper West Side. “We have always been a neighborhood seafood spot and are looking forward to catering to a new group of regulars while continuing to welcome in our existing guests. We envision Crave Fishbar Upper West as a comfortable and welcoming neighborhood go-to, while also expanding our food and beverage offerings,” said Owen in a press release. Mitgang’s menu features sustainable seafood in dishes such as Spicy Scallop Tartare on crispy sweet potato and Lobster Curry with charred red onion and Japanese eggplant in a Thai coo chee curry. A daily happy hour offers all East Coast and West Coast oysters for $1 each between 4 and 6 p.m. Brunch service is set to launch in January. Open daily from 4 p.m.
428 Amsterdam Ave. (between 80th and 81st streets) 646-494-2750 cravefishbar.com
PAUL WAGTOUICZJPG
For Reservations Call 212-239-8792
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
nique Try our U ils! Cockta every r is
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Jue Lan Club The kitchen at recently opened Jue Lan Club is helmed by executive chef and partner Oscar Toro. He features a Chinese raw bar as well as dim sum brunch served on rolling carts and à la carte tasting menus. The 275-seat restaurant, located in a historic church on Sixth Avenue, has two dining rooms, a private event space, and an outdoor garden. Stratis Morfogen, Robert Collins, Vikram Chatwal, Richie Romero, Marcell Dareus, and Karlos Dansby are behind the project.
You will enjoy an enticing mix of Thai, Malaysian, Chinese and Japanese cusine, perfected by us. Quality and service is our passion, let us take you on a culinary journey of South East Asia.
Asian Cuisine & Cocktail Bar (212) 752-8883 | (212) 752-8012
FUSHANYC.COM 1065 First Avenue (Between 58th & 59th Street) New York, NY 10022
49 W. 20th St. (at Sixth Avenue) 646-461-2400 juelanclub.com
Carla Hall Bakes
COURTESY OF CARLA HALL BAKES
Chef and television personality Carla Hall is bringing her cookies and baked goods to a brick-and-mortar store at the Gansevoort Market. “I’ve always been inspired by the Franklin Tennessee Farmer’s Market and have wanted to bring a similar style space to New York City. I love the idea of fresh cookies, breads, jams, and teas being so accessible and the community getting a chance to support Nashville businesses,” Hall said in a press release. The store stocks items such as Lemon-Glazed Five Flavor Pound Cake, Salted Caramel Banana Bread, and Pecan Shortbread with vanilla salt. Other products from Nashville and the South will be offered as well. Open daily 8 a.m.–9 p.m.
Playa Betty’s
Sevens’ Mixed Grill
A dose of California coastal cuisine comes to the Upper West Side with Playa Betty’s. A project of Tom Wilson and Eugene Ashe, who met at Mas, the 3,000-square-foot space offers a laid-back venue (think beach-themed movie posters and surfboards) that dishes out drinks, like the Frozen Paloma with pink peppercorn-lined rim, and Californian fare. You can get fire-roasted Beachfire Chicken or tacos in traditional and nontraditional flavors (like the Marley, with Jamaican-style jerk chicken, or the Taco-Fella with breaded fried oysters and wilted spinach). Open daily from 11 a.m. COURTESY OF PLAYA BETTY'S
320 Amsterdam Ave. (at West 75th Street) 212-721-0777 playabettys.com
A Turkish Feast
you’ll always remember • Authentic Mediterranean Turkish cuisine • Delicious Specialty Kebabs & Pides • Zucchini Pancakes • Decadent Homemade Specialties and Desserts • Catering Available
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Gansevoort Market 52 Gansevoort St. carlahallbakes.com MEDITERRANEAN TURKISH GRILL
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
158 West 72nd St. NY • (212) 724-4700
www.seventurkishgrillnyc.com *valid for dinner 5 pm - 11 pm
D10
@EpochTaste
December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
Are You a Smart Restaurant Owner? Ready to Banish Dull Roasts? We Jazzed Up a Basic Pork Loin By Alison Ladman
We have increased sales and we’re getting new customers. Mie Okuda, owner and chef, Momokawa
Interested? GET IN TOUCH!
advertisenow@epochtimes.com 212-239-2808
Epoch Times • 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5 • New York, NY 10001
ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE
KOREATOWN Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST
Junoon Indian Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com
Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com
Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com
KIPS BAY
Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Asian Fusion Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
Uncle Ted’s Chinese 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE
SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
From The Associated Press
RECIPE STUFFED PORK LOIN WITH CRANBERRY BEURRE BLANC Prep & Cooking Time: 2 hours (45 minutes active) Serves: 8 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
8 ounces bacon, diced 2 medium yellow onions, diced 2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary 2 cloves garlic, minced 1/2 cup panko breadcrumbs 2- to 2 1/2-pound pork loin Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 tablespoons coarse ground mustard 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 large shallots, finely chopped 1 cup fresh cranberries 1 1/2 cups dry white wine 1 1/2 tablespoons sugar 6 tablespoons unsalted butter
DIRECTIONS
side is facing you. Starting at one short end of the loin, carefully cut it through the center horizontally, splitting the loin nearly in half. Cut only to within about 1 inch of the other short end. Open the sliced loin like a book, then lay it flat on the cutting surface. Repeat the cutting motion across the center, again slicing from one short side to the other, and again leaving about 1 inch intact. Open the loin again like a book and lay flat. Fit several sheets of plastic wrap over the flattened pork on the cutting board. Using a meat mallet, pound the pork until it is about 1/2 inch thick. Remove the plastic wrap and season with salt and black pepper. Spread the mustard evenly over the pork, then sprinkle the breadcrumb mixture over it. Starting with a short side, roll up the pork like a jelly roll. Using kitchen twine or skewers, secure the roll then transfer to the prepared pan. Roast for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the center reaches 145 F.
In a large skillet over medium-high, cook the bacon until mostly crisp, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the onions, sage, rosemary, and garlic, then cook until the onion is tender and starting to brown, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in the breadcrumbs and set aside.
While the pork roasts, make the sauce. In a medium skillet over medium, heat the oil. Add the shallots and cook for 6 to 7 minutes, or until tender and starting to brown. Add the cranberries and continue to cook until they begin to break down and become saucy. Stir in the wine and sugar, then cook until reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat and stir in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, whisking to combine as it melts before adding the next tablespoon.
Place the pork loin on a cutting board so a long
Slice the pork roast and serve with the sauce.
Heat the oven to 350 F. Line a 9-by-9-inch baking pan with foil, then mist with cooking spray.
A Refreshing New Year’s Eve Cocktail
RECIPE THE SPARKLING ORCHARD GROVE Prep & Cooking Time: 25 minutes Serves: 8
By J.M. Hirsch All the best holiday cocktails start with drinks you make for your 11-year-old, right? Or is that just me? The boy was craving what is known in our house as a “special drink.” Which basically means anything with sugar. Except we rarely have soda in the house, so special drinks usually are homemade concoctions combining some blend of seltzer water, juice, and whatever else inspires me in the moment. On this night, all I had in the refrigerator were apple cider and orange juice. So using my killer mixology skills, I dumped those together then added a splash of seltzer. He loved it. And that is how I got the inspiration for this adult version. I still combine the cider and juice, but then simmered them down in a reduction. The resulting syrup is spooned into glasses, topped with a splash of amaretto liqueur, then finished with a healthy pour of sparkling wine. A sprig of rosemary adds a fresh touch. CH
Do what our fabulous clients did and partake in our smorgasbord of offerings to grow your customer base!
. H I RS TO/J.M PH O
HOW DO YOU STAND OUT?
AP
A new restaurant opens every day in New York City,
Holiday roasts—as delicious as they are—often suffer from slab-of-meat syndrome. Which is to say, you plop down a honking hunk of meat and... that’s about it. Not the prettiest or most festive item on the table. So we decided to see what would happen if we dressed up a basic roast so that it not only was beautiful, but also packed a ton of flavor. This stuffed pork loin is the delicious result. We start by butterflying
a basic pork loin, then fill it with a crazy good blend of bacon, onions, fresh sage and rosemary, and some crunchy panko breadcrumbs. Next, we roll it all up and pop it in the oven. When you slice it, you’ll see this is no dull roast. But we didn’t stop there. We also make a rich cranberry-white wine-butter sauce to drizzle over the pork at the table. Because it’s the holidays, after all.
From The Associated Press
• • • •
1 cup apple cider 1/2 cup orange juice 4 ounces amaretto liqueur 750-milliliter bottle sparkling wine • 8 sprigs fresh rosemary
DIRECTIONS In a small saucepan over mediumhigh, combine the cider and orange juice. Simmer until reduced to 1/2 cup, 20 to 25 minutes. Set aside to cool. To prepare each cocktail, pour 1/2 ounce of the cider-juice reduction into a sparkling wine flute. Add 1/2 ounce of amaretto liqueur to each glass, then top with sparkling wine. Lightly smack each rosemary sprig several times against the counter to release the oils, then add 1 sprig to each cocktail.
D11
@EpochTaste
December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
Bird or Beef ? Try Salmon By Melissa D’Arabian Who says a holiday roast has to be red meat or poultry? Take a page from my French husband’s family’s book of traditions and serve salmon! I like to buy one single large fillet if possible, then serve it on the largest platter I can find. It makes for a pretty dramatic and colorful holiday meal centerpiece. Plus, roasted salmon is incredibly easy, quick (taking minutes, not hours like many roasts), and is versatile. Since we try to eat fatty fish twice a week in our home, this holiday favorite helps get us there, year-round. My favorite roasted salmon strategy couldn’t
Serve on a large platter for a dramatic holiday meal centerpiece.
be easier. Just brush the fillet with seasoned olive oil (which can be as simple as salt, pepper, and oil), roast it quickly at high heat, then top it with a quick vinaigrette-style sauce. Mix together almost any combination of herbs, spices, and aromatics with some acid (such as lemon juice or red wine vinegar) and oil, then spoon it over the just-roasted, piping hot fish. Delicious! The hardest part about this dish? Not overcooking it! My advice is to take it out a couple minutes before you think it is done. It will be perfect. Or you also could use an instant thermometer and cook it to 135 F. From The Associated Press
RECIPE • 1 tablespoon olive oil • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
ROASTED SALMON WITH LEMONS, PRUNES, AND OLIVES
DIRECTIONS
Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves: 6 For the Salmon
• • • • • •
Heat the oven to 450 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment.
2-pound wild salmon or steelhead trout fillet 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced 2 tablespoons lemon juice Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 lemons, thinly sliced, seeds removed
For the Topping
• 3/4 cup prunes, pitted and halved • 3/4 cup briny, green olives, pitted, lightly chopped or left whole, as desired • 2 tablespoons capers • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill • Juice and zest of 1 lemon
Set the salmon on the prepared baking sheet. In a small bowl, mix together the oil, garlic, lemon juice, and a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper. Spread the seasoned oil over the fish, then arrange the lemon slices over it. Bake until cooked through, but the flesh is still a little translucent, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, set the prunes in a medium bowl. Pour 1/2 cup of boiling water over them and set aside to soften for several minutes. In a second medium bowl, mix together the olives, capers, parsley, dill, lemon juice and zest, and the olive oil. Drain the prunes, then add those. Mix well, then season with salt and pepper. As soon as the salmon comes out of the oven, carefully transfer it to a serving platter and spoon the prune mixture over it.
A New Year’s Eve Kebab Inspired by Classic Steakhouse Foods By Elizabeth Karmel The best New Year’s Eve party I ever attended was a progressive graze of one appetizer after another all evening. When a dish came o the grill or out of the oven, we nibbled on it until we were ready for the next course. What a great vibe. For my own oering that evening, I took inspiration from my favorite steakhouse ingredients—beef, mushrooms, and bacon— and turned them into a sizzling steakhouse kebab. Because there is nothing as festive as food on a stick! And this kebab is extra special and easy. Because both the chunks of filet and the mushrooms are bathed in bacon fat as they cook, there is little that you need to do to the ingredients to make them taste spectacular. For a dish as simple as this, buy the best possible raw ingredients. This steak recipe allows you to stretch two filets among six people, so you can aord to splurge on prime beef. I chose mushrooms because I love them and because they take about the same amount of time as filet to cook. But if you prefer, you could substitute cherry tomatoes or any of your favorite vegetables. If the vegetables take a lot longer to cook (such as potatoes), make sure that you
partially cook them first. Speaking of which, the secret to these kebabs is precooking the bacon. Since you want it to get crispy by the time the mushrooms and filet are done, you need to cook it just until the fat begins to render out, then use it to make the kebabs. As for the skewers, be sure to soak them in water so they won’t burn on the grill. From The Associated Press
RECIPE STEAKHOUSE KEBABS WITH MUSHROOMS AND BACON Prep & Cooking Time: 35 minutes Serves: 6 • • • • •
8 slices center-cut bacon Two 10-ounce center cut filet mignons Olive oil Kosher salt 18 large white mushrooms, cleaned and stemmed • 6 long bamboo skewers, soaked in water
DIRECTIONS Heat the grill to medium. Heat the oven to 400 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. Lay the bacon on the prepared baking sheet and cook for 10 minutes, or until the fat begins to render but the bacon is not fully cooked. Use tongs to transfer the bacon to a paper towellined plate to drain and cool. Once the bacon has cooled enough to handle, cut each strip crosswise into 4 pieces. Set aside.
Meanwhile, cut each filet lengthwise into thirds, then cut each slice into thirds again to create 9 pieces from each. Brush the beef cubes with oil, then season lightly with salt. Set aside. Season the mushrooms with oil and salt, then set aside. To assemble the kebabs, thread the beef and mushrooms onto skewers starting with a beef cube and placing a piece of bacon between each. Grill the assembled kebabs for 7 to 10 minutes, turning once halfway through the cooking time, or until the bacon is crispy and the mushrooms are marked and tender and the beef is cooked rare to medium-rare. Serve hot or at room temperature.
A little flower of NYC
The secret to making these kebabs? Precook the bacon.
Piccolo Fiore 230 E. 44th St. (btw 2nd & 3rd avenues)
( ! ! !" NYC !
" $ ! $ " ' $ ! " $' #$
Ring in the New Year With Us! Reserve your five-course tasting dinner with live music and champagne!
D12
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December 25–31, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
Some Like It Hot! Cheesecake, That Is By Sara Moulton Cheesecake is usually served cold. So brace yourself for something a little different. The first time I made this recipe, I pulled it out of the oven and set it on the counter to cool. The plan was to chill it overnight in the refrigerator. But my dear daughter—also known as The Girl with the Sweet Tooth—just couldn’t wait to dig in. So I handed her a spoon. And when she started babbling with delight, I tried it, too. Boing! It was ridiculously good. So good that I now recommend that you serve this cheesecake hot, right out of the oven, topped with a little vanilla ice cream or sweetened whipped cream. Spring it on your guests during New Year’s Eve and see if the party doesn’t become even more cheerful. That said, getting there requires some care. Be sure to buy plain pumpkin puree, which is sometimes labeled solid pack pumpkin. Avoid anything labeled “pumpkin pie filling” or “pumpkin pie mix,” both of which contain unwanted sugar and spices. You’re much better off adding those ingredients yourself. Also, don’t forget to drain the pumpkin puree. Losing the excess liquid from the puree improves the final texture and flavor of the cake. The cooking also requires some care. You’re going to cook the cake in a water bath, which helps to equalize the temperature in the oven and prevents overcooking. But first the springform pan must be tightly wrapped with foil to prevent any water from leaking into the batter while the cake is baking. Finally, do your best to not over-bake the
Serve this cheesecake hot, with a little vanilla ice cream or or sweetened whipped cream.
cake, which will make it dry and crumbly. After the allotted cooking time, it should still be a little jiggly. Worried that the cake might be undercooked at that point? Don’t be. The residual heat will continue to cook it even after you pull it out of the oven. By the way, this cheesecake also is a knockout when it’s served the usual way—cold. If you decide to go this route, run a knife around the outside edge of the cake to separate it from the pan as soon as you remove the cake from the oven. This will allow the cake to remain intact as it shrinks in on itself, rather than cracking down the middle as it vainly attempts to unglue itself from the sides of the pan. If you do indeed decide to serve this cold,
you need to be more patient than my daughter and let it cool completely on a rack on the counter—it’ll take three to four hours— before wrapping it tightly and popping it in the refrigerator to chill overnight. When it’s time, run a knife around the edge of the pan again, carefully remove the side of the pan, then slice the cheesecake with a knife dipped in hot water (or use unflavored dental floss). And don’t forget the crowning glory. As noted, whipped cream or ice cream are the accessories of choice. From The Associated Press
RECIPE WARM PUMPKIN-BOURBON CHEESECAKE Prep & Cooking Time: 2 hours (45 minutes active) Serves: 16 For the Crust • 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus extra for the pan • 1 1/4 cups gingersnap cookie crumbs (made by pulsing about 25 cookies in a food processor until finely ground) • 1/4 cup packed dark brown sugar • 1/4 teaspoon table salt For the Filling • 15-ounce can pumpkin puree • 3 large eggs • 1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar • 2 tablespoons heavy cream • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 1/4 cup bourbon, dark rum, or cognac • 1/2 cup granulated sugar • 1 tablespoon cornstarch • 1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon • 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
• • • •
1/2 teaspoon ground dry ginger 1/2 teaspoon ground allspice 1/2 teaspoon table salt Three 8-ounce packages 1/3-less-fat cream cheese (Neufchatel), room temperature • Vanilla ice cream or lightly sweetened whipped cream, to serve
DIRECTIONS To make the crust, in a medium bowl, stir together the 6 tablespoons of butter, the gingersnap crumbs, brown sugar, and salt until combined well. Pour the crumb mixture into the pan and press it evenly over the bottom of the pan. Bake on the oven’s middle shelf for 10 minutes. Transfer to a cake rack and cool for 30 minutes. Reduce the oven to 350 F. Line a mesh colander with a clean kitchen towel. Mound the pumpkin puree into the towel and set over a medium bowl. Bring the ends of the towel up and gently squeeze to remove excess water (you should be able to squeeze out about 1/4 cup of liquid). Discard the liquid. Rinse and dry the bowl, then in it mix together the pumpkin, eggs, brown sugar, cream, vanilla, and bourbon. Set aside. In a large bowl, stir together the granulated sugar,
cornstarch, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, allspice, and salt. Add the cream cheese, then use an electric mixer on high to beat until smooth, about 3 minutes. Add the pumpkin mixture to the cream cheese mixture and beat on low, just until combined. Bring a large kettle of water to a boil. Use foil to wrap the bottom and sides of the springform pan. Pour the filling into the pan. Fold a kitchen towel so it fits evenly in a roasting pan just a bit larger than the springform pan. Set the springform pan on top of the towel in the roasting pan. Working quickly, pour enough boiling water into the larger pan to come halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Bake the cheesecake for 65 to 70 minutes, or until it is mostly set but still slightly jiggly at the center. Spoon some of the cheesecake onto each serving plate and top with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream. Alternatively, if serving the cheesecake cold, transfer it to a rack, run a sharp knife around the edge and let it cool completely, about 4 hours, before covering with plastic wrap. Chill. To serve, cut into slices and top each slice with a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a spoonful of whipped cream.
Edible Chocolate Bowls for Sweet Cravings
RECIPE DARK CHOCOLATE BERRY BASKETS
By Melissa D’Arabian If you were to join my family for dinner on a regular weeknight (go for it, but call first!), you’d see our typical dessert routine in action. It works like this: My husband grabs my favorite tiny bamboo cutting board and a paring knife while I grab a variety of fruit. Then we sit with our four daughters, chatting about our days—sometimes enjoying an impromptu dance show from one or more of the girls—as we pass wedges of pears or whatever around the table. It’s sacred family time. But... sometimes a girl needs a serious dessert. And by serious, I mean chocolate. Yes, I’ll sometimes satisfy this need by nibbling on a square of dark chocolate with my decaf espresso. That’s fine. But for truly special occasions I whip up little edible chocolate bowls. They take just minutes to make using chocolate chips, and you can fill them with berries, your favorite fruit, or anything else you want. These little bowls are fun enough to make for kids’ sleepovers, yet elegant enough to serve at a dinner party. I love buying the darkest chocolate chips I can find (usually 60 percent) because I love the almost-bitter flavor of darker chocolate. Plus, it is healthier. Once you master the (simple) technique of making these chocolate baskets, you can easily customize them, adding cinnamon,
Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Serves: 8 • • • • • • • •
1 cup dark chocolate chips 1 teaspoon coconut oil 2 tablespoons finely chopped toasted almonds Kosher salt 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar (white, if you have it) 1 tablespoon packed brown sugar Ground black pepper 2 cups halved or quartered fresh strawberries (or other berries or orange segments, membranes and seeds removed) • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
Try filling these chocolate baskets with lightly sauteed pears.
DIRECTIONS In a large glass or other microwave-safe bowl, combine the chocolate and coconut oil. Microwave on 50 percent power, stopping to stir every 30 seconds, until melted and smooth, about 3 minutes.
cayenne, rosemary, chunky sea salt, flecks of orange zest, whatever your imagination desires. I usually fill my bowls with berries or in-season fruit (try lightly sauteed pears), but feel free to treat them like super tasty tart crusts and build even more decadent desserts in them. From The Associated Press
Spread a few spoons of the melted chocolate into a silicone cupcake liner, using the back of the spoon to spread the chocolate up the side of the liner so it is evenly and thickly coated. Sprinkle the wet chocolate with a teaspoon of almonds and a tiny pinch of kosher salt. Repeat with 7 more liners. Chill the chocolate until firm, at least 30 minutes. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, mix together the vinegar, brown sugar and a pinch of pepper. Add the strawberries and toss to coat. Let sit to allow flavors to meld for at least 15 minutes, or up to a few hours. Immediately before serving, stir the mint into the strawberries, remove the chocolate baskets from the molds and spoon in the berries.