SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 February 19–25, 2016
Oscars Party Recipes on
D10
www.EpochTaste.com
From Spicy Cioppino to Seafood Flatbread, many of the dishes at Sagaponack let the quality of the seafood speak for itself.
No Shortcuts at
Sagaponack Where Seafood Rules
trove of bottles and mason jars line the shelves at Sagaponack Bar & Grill. Chef-owner Franco Lee fills them with his homemade chili oil, jalapeño-infused tequila, and the latest one, ginseng-infused vodka— upon which a sticker affirms the open date: Feb. 9, 2021.
Lee’s devotion to seafood is such that he goes to the fish market himself at 5 am, five times a week.
The man takes no shortcuts. During the two years Lee worked at Morimoto for chef Ariki Omae, the omakase chef, he said he both suffered a lot and learned a lot. “He used to beat me, but we had so much fun,” Lee said. Under Omae, there were strictly no shortcuts—that is, if you call mandolines or peelers shortcuts. Any cutting, slicing, or dicing had to be done with a knife. Lee has continued this tradition with his own staff. Where common restaurant practice might call for cleaning oysters with a powerful rinse of water, that doesn’t sit well with Lee, who is disturbed by the thought of customers putting oyster shells to their lips with such little cleaning, as he sees it.
See Sagaponack on D2
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February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Served with a poached egg on top, the Pappardelle with Korean short ribs is addictive.
No Shortcuts at
Sagaponack Where Seafood Rules
Sagaponack continued from D1
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
A directive to his staff: Take a brush and scrub the oysters one by one. “That way you can inspect them at the same time,” he said. Lee’s devotion to seafood is such that he goes to the fish market himself at 5 a.m., five times a week (the restaurant is closed to the public on Sundays, when it does a brisk trade with private events). And he knows his way around a fish market. For the past 10 years, he helped a friend at a fish market, working there every winter during busy holiday stretches. Needless to say he knows what’s freshest and best, and has amassed an array of seafood purveyors that he deals with personally, rather than just one seafood distributor. And woe to him or her who tries to pass off lessthan-great seafood. Many of the dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase the quality of the seafood. The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that just-been-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops have a lovely sweetness to them. Wherever possible Lee sources them locally from Long Island. One of the bargains at Sagaponack is the happy hour $1 oysters (you have to get a min-
Lee’s family background is Korean and you find delightful traces of it on the menu.
imum of six). Freshly harvested the day before from Fishers Island Oyster Farm, their quality is legendary among chefs. They easily cost much more than Blue Point oysters (30-something cents apiece versus Fishers, which cost 90-something cents apiece), and Lee offers his happy hour oysters at a near loss. But quality is an obsession. “And they’re consistent,” Lee said, tapping the box of just delivered Fishers. Final word. His reverence for ingredients was developed through his classical French training at the then-French Culinary Institute (now International Culinary Center), and cemented during his Japanese training at Morimoto. When Lee took over the restaurant in May last year, he also wanted to create bolder dishes. And it works. One is the Paella, which could easily serve as an individual portion or be shared, which is a welcome departure from the often mandatory must-order-for-two paella. It’s served not in a paella pan, but in a cast iron skillet, which retains the heat better and makes that beautiful, delicious rice crust on the bottom that must have launched many a family fight. The rice is on its own delicious, redolent with the flavors of chicken stock and saffron. It’s the perfect vehicle for the seafood, spiced up from paprika and thin slices of chorizo. Chock-full
The rice is redolent with flavors of chicken stock and saffron.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
The Paella, with shrimp, clams, mussels, scallops, and chorizo.
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February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Spicy Seafood Flatbread with spicy marinara.
Grilled Octopus with pickled fennel and grapes.
of seafood, it’s great value at $18. The Spicy Cioppino too, accentuates fish and shellfish, in a tomato-seafood broth. Soak it up with garlic toast and it’s complete. The seafood broths that Lee makes have depth and an addicting quality to them. His secret is that he starts them off with a dashi broth, with kelp and bonito flakes. The Grilled Octopus starter ($14) is mighty meaty, even while it retains tenderness. There’s a perfect marriage between the smoky char it gets from the grill and the gochujangbased sauce. The grapes and pickled fennel are refreshing touches. Lee’s family background is Korean and you find delightful traces of it on the menu. There are a couple of pasta dishes, including the must-try savory-sweet Pappardelle (made in-house) with Korean short ribs and that giveme-more-right-now quality ($21). A poached egg crowns the whole, and possibly the best part is how the bits of short ribs—which almost disintegrate at the touch of a fork after a 4-to5-hour braise—cling to the ribbons of pasta. Happiness on a plate—right here! For a light bite, try the Spicy Seafood Flatbread with calamari, spicy marinara, and two different kinds of sauces drizzled on top ($17). The sauces are mostly a secret but Lee
will say this much: one is chili-based, the other sour cream-based. One of the most popular dishes on the menu is Long Island Duck with balsamic glaze, which he confits in a five-spice mix and serves with a blood orange arugula salad with farro and hazelnuts ($19). The local Long Island sensibility continues with the wine and liquor list: cocktails made with Sag Harbor Rum, Rough Rider Bourbon or Rye, or Pine Barren Single Malt Whiskey, which was the first American single malt to be distilled on Long Island. Many of the wines are also local, and Lee especially favors Wölffer Estate Vineyard, located—where else?—in Sagaponack, Long Island. The beer list rotates, and Lee is just as demanding in selecting beers that pair well with seafood. If you have any room left for dessert, try the Frozen Caramel Soufflé with powdered nougatine and topped with flaky sea salt ($13). With a soaring ceiling and an expansive, maritime feel (think dark wood, white paint, and details like ships’ wheels) and a variety of seating from cozy banquette seating and comfortable bar chairs, Sagaponack is a versatile spot. Add the excellent cooking by chef Franco Lee at affordable prices, and it makes for a memorable time.
Sagaponack Bar & Grill
4 W. 22nd St. (at Fifth Avenue) 212-229-2226 sagaponacknyc.com Hours Lunch: Monday–Wednesday 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m. Happy Hour: Monday–Friday 4 p.m.–7 p.m. Dinner: Monday–Wednesday 5 p.m.–10:30 p.m.
Deliciously Sponsored
Sagaponack has maritime touches meant to evoke Long Island.
Thursday–Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m. Specials Happy hour includes $1 oysters, half-price beer, wine, and well drinks Wednesday Wings: 12 wings for $9 All-you-can-eat raw bar on Monday for $45
Chef-owner Franco Lee.
ENJOY A SEASONAL FEAST FOR THE EYES AND THE PALATE, TAILORED TO YOUR INDIVIDUAL TASTE TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
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February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
BRUNCH MENU AT THE MEASURE LOUNGE IN LANGHAM PLACE
CLASSICS with FLAIR
stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF MEASURE LOUNGE
Measure Lounge, the bar inside the Midtown luxury hotel Langham Place, has launched a brunch menu. Dishes include Croque Madame with egg, pancetta, and Landaff cheddar on brioche; Baked Egg with sun-dried tomato, asparagus, and scallions; and Cinnamon Brioche French Toast with strawberry mascarpone. For drinks, there are cocktails like the Cold Brew Negroni and Langham Rosé Sangria, as well as mimosas made to order with different fruits. Saturdays & Sundays 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Measure Lounge, 400 Fifth Ave. measurenyc.com COURTESY OF MEASURE LOUNGE
Fine French cuisine in a romantic and elegant setting, be sure to visit Madison Bistro in Murray Hill, and enjoy Master Chef Claude Godard’s updated traditional bistro fare.
MADISON BISTRO
Croque Madame from the Measure Lounge.
Cinnamon Brioche Toast.
238 Madison Ave. (at 37th Street) madisonbistro.com
MICHAEL TULIPAN
STINKY CHEESE FESTIVAL
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
The French restaurant group Tour de France is hosting its 10th annual Stinky Cheese Festival, when its restaurants serve multicourse menus dedicated to cheese. At Marseille, there’s Veal Tongue with Alsatian Munster cheese, Pont-l’Évêque foam, and double-roasted crabapples. At Nice Matin, diners can enjoy Beer Braised Pork and Cato Corner Hooligan cheese, followed by a Blue Cheese Mille Feuille for dessert. And Pigalle will serve Sweet Potato Gnocchi with Taleggio Cheese Fondue and Reblochon Bread Pudding topped with honey ice cream for dessert. Monday, Feb. 22–Sunday, Feb. 28 Tour de France group restaurants tourdefrancenyc.com
BREAKFAST FOR DINNER IN THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT Restaurants in the Meatpacking District will compete to make the most loved breakfast dish. For one evening, chefs will serve their top breakfast dishes, along with breakfast cocktails and beers, in a bid to win the People’s Choice Award decided by the public, while an expert panel referees and weighs in. Participating restaurants include Untitled, Spice Market, Serafina, Fig and Olive, Colicchio and Sons, Toro, and Doughnuttery. $55 to $75 per person. Monday, Feb. 29 6:30 p.m.–9 p.m. 451-459 W. 14th St. eventbrite.com (search “Breakfast for Dinner”)
Beer Float from Syndicated.
SYNDICATED Syndicated, the restaurant and movie theater combined in one, is now serving special movie-themed food and drink pairings during happy hour, from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on weekdays. They include the Titanic (popcorn-fried oysters served with Rockaway Pale Ale); the Mary Poppins (house-cured fried corned beef scrumpets with Kelso Brown Ale); and the King and the Rye (peanut butter-banana sandwich with a shot of rye whiskey). Syndicated is also serving new desserts: Apple Bread Pudding with bourbon maple glaze and candied pecans; Chocolate Budino with butterscotch, peanut butter crumble, and caramel popcorn; and a Beer Float with Keegan Mother’s Milk Stout, chocolate ice cream, caramel sauce, and whipped cream. Syndicated 40 Bogart St., Brooklyn syndicatedbk.com
CELEBRATING THE END OF ELAN Chef David Waltuck’s new American restaurant élan, in Gramercy Park, is closing at the end of February. To say goodbye to diners, chef Waltuck is offering a special prix fixe menu through the end of the month. The three-course menu will change daily according to the ingredients available in the market and comes with a complimentary sparkling wine. $40 per person. Through Monday, Feb. 29 élan 43 E. 20th St. elannyc.com
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
The Nuaa 1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) • 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
PIORA The Michelin-starred restaurant’s pastry chef Ryan Butler has created two new winter desserts: the Meyer Lemon Tart with yuzu, kishu mandarin, and condensed milk; and the Malted Peanut Bonbon with frozen Snickers bars, pretzels, chocolate, and toffee. Piora is also launching the Lucky 7 Happy Hour every day from 5:30 p.m. to 7 p.m., with seven cocktails priced at $7, glasses of red and white wine for $7, and draft beers for $6. Every day at 6 p.m., all bar guests will receive a complimentary bar snack. Patrons can also play a card draw: those who draw a number seven card win a free cocktail. Piora 430 Hudson St. pioranyc.com
FARO This seasonal American restaurant in Bushwick, Brooklyn, has a new dessert on its menu. The Brooklyn Beer Cake is made with Brooklyn Brewery Insulated Dark Lager and paired with oat ice cream, honeycomb, and streusel. Faro 436 Jefferson St., Brooklyn farobk.com
BILLION OYSTER PROJECT TASTING AND TALK Enjoy an intimate tasting and discussion about oyster farming. Freshly shucked oysters selected and prepared by Crave Fishbar’s executive chef Todd Mitgang will be served, along with beverages pairings. Pete Malinowski of the Billion Oyster Project, which seeks to restore live oysters to the New York Harbor, and Steve Malinowski, founder of the Fishers Island Oyster Farm, will lead a discussion about oyster farming and why eating farmed shellfish is good for the marine environment. $30 per person. Sunday, Feb. 21 5 p.m.–6 p.m. Crave Fishbar Upper West Side 28 Amsterdam Ave. eventbrite.com (search “BOP Oyster Social”)
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February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
BEER AND CHEESE AT MURRAY’S CHEESE
Wednesday, Feb. 24 6:30 p.m.–8 p.m. Murray’s Cheese Shop 254 Bleecker St. eventbrite.com (search “All About Those Monks”)
Specialty shop Murray’s Cheese is hosting a beer and cheese tasting event, featuring Trappist ales brewed at monasteries. Cheeses will range from oozy to creamy. $85 per person.
thai
the modern experience
C-CAP BENEFIT GALA HONORING CHEF DANIEL HUMM The annual gala to benefit C-CAP (Careers through Culinary Arts Program), an organization that helps underserved youth develop culinary careers, is a grand affair. This year, the organization is honoring chef and co-owner of Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad, Daniel Humm. Fortythree top chefs from around the city will gather to cook for the evening, including Daniel Boulud, Rich Torrisi, Jonathan Waxman, Maria Loi, Fredrik Berselius, Dan Barber, Michael White, and Marcus Samuelsson. C-CAP high school students will be assisting the chefs. $550–$1,000 per person. Wednesday, March 9 6:30 p.m.–9 p.m. (5:45 p.m. for VIP entry) Pier Sixty, Chelsea Piers 23rd Street & Hudson River ccapinc.org
Happy Hour
AMIR NATHAN
TIMNA
Monday & Tuesday All day, from 12pm–10:45pm
Modern Israeli restaurant Timna has new winter desserts on the menu. The Dolce and Kubaneh features a mini kubaneh bread filled with vanilla cream, white chocolate, and cardamom, topped with honey-sage ice cream and tonka bean foam. The Pistachio Creme Brûlée is topped with churros, clouds of cinnamon cotton candy, and medjool dates. The restaurant also recently launched Aperitif Hour. Every Tuesday through Friday from 5:30 p.m. to 7:30 p.m., a drink and food pairing will only cost $12.
Wednesday–Sunday: 12pm–8pm Happy hour specials include our house drinks, martinis, margaritas, beer, and wine for $5. Our martini and margarita flavors include lychee, peach, strawberry, apple, orange, and pineapple. And of course we always have dirty martinis.
v{iv} Bar & Restaurant
Timna 109 St. Marks Place timna.nyc
Timna’s Pistachio Creme Brûlée.
HELL’S KITCHEN 717 9th Ave. (btwn 48th-49th St.) 212-581-5999 MIDTOWN EAST 38 E. 34th (btwn Lex & 3rd) 212-213-3317
FOODBYTES! BROOKLYN
Follow us @vivthainyc
Like us v{iv} Bar and Restaurant
Visit us at vivthainyc.com
FoodBytes! Brooklyn is a conference series on food, innovation, and technology. The event is meant to connect businesses in the food and agribusiness sector with potential investors. This is the first FoodBytes! conference on the East Coast. Attendees will also get to vote on the People’s Choice Award for best startup company. Runners-up include Back to the Roots, Patrick’s Fine Sodas, and Tiny Farms. Thursday, March 3 1 p.m.–8 p.m. The Hall at MP, 470 Driggs Ave., Brooklyn foodbytessummit.com
BENEFIT TASTING FOR FOOD AND FINANCE HIGH SCHOOL Chef Carla Hall is hosting the “Small Plates, Big Hearts” tasting to benefit the Food and Finance High School, the only public school focused on culinary arts in the city. Thirty top chefs are preparing dishes for the event, including Marc Murphy (Landmarc), Andrew Carmellini (NoHo Hospitality Group), Amanda Cohen (Dirt Candy), Esther Choi (Mokbar), and Miguel Trinidad (Jeepney). $250–$500 per person. Monday, March 7 7 p.m.–9:30 p.m. (6 p.m. for VIP entry) Espace, 635 W. 42nd St. 501auctions.com/smallplatesbighearts2016
We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills” approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
VILLAGE VOICE CHOICE EATS The Village Voice’s annual food extravaganza is back for its ninth year. A diverse range of cuisines will be represented by 50-plus restaurants serving up delicious eats, including Awadh, Fonda, The Handpulled Noodle, Kuma Inn, Luke’s Lobster, The Meatball Shop, Queens Comfort, Streets BK, and Veselka. Beverage pairings will be complimentary. $70 to $99 per person.
FAROOQ ALIHASSAN
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
Dishes served at last year’s Choice Eats festival. FAROOQ ALIHASSAN
Friday, March 11 6 p.m.–8 p.m. Metropolitan Pavilion 125 W. 18th St. bit.ly/ChoiceEats16Tix
Chefs prepare dishes at last year’s Choice Eats festival.
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.) Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
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February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town
COURTESY OF CARNEGIE DELI
Authentic Japanese FREE
Carnegie Deli The iconic Carnegie Deli has reopened its flagship location in Midtown. It is now under the management of second generation mother-daughter team Marian and Sarri Harper. “We are over the moon that our doors have oďŹƒcially reopened. We have made much needed repairs and upgrades to ensure we can serve our world-famous matzo ball soup, gargantuan corned beef and pastrami sandwiches, and creamy New York cheesecake once more,â€? said President Marian Harper in a press release.
854 Seventh Ave. (at 55th Street) 212-757-2245 carnegiedeli.com COURTESY OF CARNEGIE DELI
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Marian Harper, owner and president of Carnegie Deli, with a Woody Allen sandwich, with corned beef and pastrami.
Momokawa
Carnegie Deli in Midtown Manhattan.
157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com COURTESY OF LA SIRENA
La Sirena A recent opening at the nautically themed Maritime Hotel is La Sirena, a restaurant from Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich. It is their first restaurant in almost a decade. The executive chef is Josh Laurano, who has worked as sous-chef at Del Posto and Babbo, and as executive chef at Tarry Market in Port Chester and at Lupa. The menu includes dishes such as Beef Braciole “Old School� with broccoli rabe and spicy breadcrumbs; and Duck Mezzalune with 3-minute marinara. Michael Laiskonis is the pastry director; his creations include interpretations of classics such as Monte Bianco with candied chestnut, black currant, and whipped cream; and Pineapple Bomboloni with roasted pineapple and vanilla gelato. The restaurant is located at the plaza level of the hotel, with two dining rooms on 16th and 17th streets, connected by a bar area—a 38-foot marble bar connecting the patio in between. Open for dinner daily. Breakfast and brunch service to come.
There are the restaurants you go to, and
The Restaurant You Go Back to.
I
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).
ROBERT LAING
La Sirena, now open at the Maritime Hotel.
88 Ninth Ave. (between 16th & 17th streets) 212-977-6096 lasirena-nyc.com
00+Co Located in the East Village, plant-based, vegan pizza concept 00+Co is set to showcase pizza with vegetables, pestos, and other condiments. Chef and restaurateur Matthew Kenney’s eatery has returned to New York City after opening several plant-based restaurants in the country. Among the pizza selections are tomato, basil, and cashew mozzarella; almond cream, potatoes, capers, shiitake “anchovies,â€? oregano, and baby kale; and smoke oyster mushroom, walnut cream, green harissa, and lemon. Small plates will also be oered, including for example Crostini of Roasted Delicata Squash with smoked almond ricotta, and Beet Ravioli with pistachio pesto and Meyer lemon cream.
236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.patsys.com
65 Second Ave. (between Third & Fourth streets) 212-777-1608 00andco.com Tomato, farro-fennel sausage, and cashew mozzarella pizza.
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Freud
Salvation Burger
A contemporary take on Austrian cuisine has come to Greenwich Village with Freud, a 65-seat restaurant meant to evoke a turn-of-the-century brasserie in Vienna. Michelin-starred chef Eduard Frauneder is oering dishes such as Scallops with Roasted Leeks; Grilled Skirt Steak with Charred Scallion, Black Shallots and Celeriac Mille-Feuille; and Wiener Schnitzel with Cucumber Dill, Yukon Gold Potato Salad, and Cranberry. The wine list focuses on natural, organic wines with an emphasis on central Europe, while a wide variety of beers from the same region are also on tap. Open daily from 5 p.m. Daytime service to come.
It’s walk-ins only at Salvation Burger, the new casual burger spot from April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman, located at the Pod 51 Hotel in Midtown East. Salvation Burger sources whole steers from upstate New York and has an on-site butcher. The namesake burger is composed of an 8-ounce patty with caramelized onions and Taleggio, while the Classic features two 3.5 ounce patties, American cheese, pickles, and a special sauce. The veggie burger is made with beets, root vegetables, sweet potato vermicelli, and rice. Desserts include banana cream pie and grapefruit sesame pie, available by the slice or as a whole pie to go. Fried hand pies and milkshakes (including boozy ones) are also available. Open daily noon–2 a.m.
506 LaGuardia Place 212-777-0327 freudnyc.com
230 E. 51st St. (between Second & Third avenues) 646-277-2900 salvationburger.com
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Sta
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February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Turn Louisiana’s Boudin Sausage Into a Drive-Worthy Experience
ALL PHOTOS BY GERALD HERBERT/AP
By Kevin Begos
W
ant a true taste of the real Louisiana? You’ll want to get behind the wheel and head out of New Orleans and off into the cypress swamps and rice paddies of Cajun country. Because that’s where you’ll find scores of mom-and-pop meat shops and convenience stores preserving a hundredsyear-old tradition of some very special sausages known as boudin. And you’ll be glad you did. Welcome to Louisiana’s Boudin Trail, a loosely defined region west of New Orleans, both north and south of Interstate 10. “Boudin is not a New Orleans thing. It is a Cajun country thing,” said Robert Carriker, a professor of history at the University of Louisiana in Lafayette and author of “Boudin: A Guide to Louisiana’s Extraordinary Link.” ‘’There are meat shops that make a handsome living for entire families selling almost nothing but boudin.” Most boudin is boiled and served hot, but you also can buy it smoked, fried in balls, and made with crawfish, alligator, or deer meat. There are boudin egg rolls, boudin grilled cheese sandwiches, pizza topped with boudin, even boudin stuffed king cakes. Boudin is a tradition that dates back to the 1700s, when French Canadians came to Louisiana. Carriker said Cajuns started using local ingredients and spices to make sausages that are different from Old World recipes. They held communal livestock slaughterings, often in the fall, that combined food, family, and music. Locals have loved the pork and rice sausages ever since. Today, the region is littered with shops serving and selling boudin, almost all using special family recipes that date back generations. Where to begin on an eating tour of boudin country? These are some of the delicious highlights:
Links of Billy’s Boudin are burst open after being fried.
DRINK TO YOUR
HEALTH (HAS A NEW MEANING!)
Johnson’s Boucaniere Johnson’s Boucaniere (Cajun French for smokehouse) in Lafayette sells wonderfully flavorful boudin, and 87-year-old Wallace Johnson tells stories of boudin’s origins at communal country hog slaughterings, or boucheries. “When they killed the hogs, they had to use everything, all the meat, because they had no refrigeration,” Johnson said. “It was rice, liver, and meat, and the seasoning. In the old days they didn’t have a stuffer. They would take a cow horn” and use it to push the boudin mixture into casings. Johnson’s father started making boudin in 1948 at the family grocer in Eunice. That store closed in 2005, but Johnson’s daughter Lori and his son-in-law Greg opened a new location a few years later, using the old family recipe. They sell a great breakfast biscuit with boudin, cheese, or egg, along with po’boys, gumbo, and an outrageous bread pudding with praline sauce.
Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pomegranate Soju
Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.
Best Stop Supermarket The Best Stop Supermarket on Route 93, just north of Scott, is a country store with a dizzying variety of specialty meats and sausage. Co-owner Dana Cormier said the family began selling boudin as a way to make ends meet in 1986, when oil field jobs went downhill. “When we first started, we’d make like 100 pounds, here and there,” Cormier said. Now “we make about 4,600 pounds of boudin a day, Monday through Friday,” along with 35,000 boudin balls a month. The Best Stop’s boudin is exceptionally moist and meaty, with pieces of scallion and a touch of old-fashioned liver flavor. Billy’s Boudin & Cracklin’ Billy’s Boudin & Cracklin’ in Scott, just off I-10, sells an amazing smoked boudin, perfectly balancing the meat and rice with just a hint of smoky flavor. Their boudin egg roll is excellent, too. At the same I-10 exit, check out Don’s Specialty Meats, which sells a tasty, moderately spiced boudin with chunks of meat, as well as innovations such as Tater Tot boudin, which is a good choice for people looking to ease into the experience. They also have a large selection of Cajun specialty foods and spices, such as pickled quail eggs and jars of roux.
SOJU HAUS offers traditional, healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations. While traditional cocktails often deplete the
Sizzling Bulgogi
body of nutrients, SOJU HAUS mindfully pairs food and drink for a more balanced effect on your body.
Herbert’s Slaughter House and Meat Market On the edges of Abbeville, about 30 minutes to the south, Herbert’s Slaughter House and Meat Market is one of the few places you can still buy red boudin, made with blood and an old-fashioned range of pig trimmings. They have fresh and frozen links, and the red boudin is moderately spiced with a slightly metallic taste, similar to English blood sausage. Meanwhile, 30 miles away in Beaux Ridge, Cajun Works sells a wonderful, blisteringly spicy boudin ball in a small sit-down restaurant. Ready to Hit the Boudin Trail? Start by heading to the Boudin Link website, which has an interactive map showing more than 50 boudin stores and reviews of each one. Also check out Southern Foodways Alliance, which works to preserve southern food cultures. Carriker said you could start by visiting one city and sampling all the different boudin there, since each store makes it differently. Or you could cruise along I-10 in either direction, stopping at the many stores near the highway. Appearances can be deceptive; a small country gas station may have the most wonderful boudin, so stay open to serendipity. From The Associated Press
Jeanne Marie Sewell holds a package of LeBlanc’s Boudin at the Sav-N-Time convenience store and gas station in Harahan, La.
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What to Try Tonight... Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
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Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
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Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine
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STEPS TO PAIRING GREAT WINES
AP PHOTO/ERIC RISBERG
With Hearty Winter Roasts By Michelle Locke
African wines), and cabernet franc.
Nothing pairs quite so well with a midwinter day as an herb-crusted slab of meat roasting alongside a few root vegetables. And to toast that roast you’ll want a rich, flavorful wine that can stand up to the snappiest of cold snaps. Here, experts dish up seven tips to pair with heartier fare.
Be a Member of the Clean Plate Club If you have a roast meat that’s been marinated with vinegar and is saturated with flavor, a palate-cleansing wine is a good idea, said Puckette. That means a wine with high acidity that will freshen your palate, similar to lemonade or iced tea. For lighter meats, this could be a sparkling brut or a blanc de noirs. A sparkling white wine made with red grapes is terrific with turkey. For darker meats a sparkling rose fits the bill.
It’s OK to Order the Merlot “The kind of roast meats I think of for the winter meal are rich, succulent, and take over your whole mouth,” said Doug Shafer of the Napa Valley’s Shafer Vineyards, known for its classic reds such as Hillside Select cabernet sauvignon and Relentless, a syrah blend named in honor of powerhouse winemaker Elias Fernandez. Shafer might pick the Shafer 2013 merlot for something like a slow-roasted lamb shank. Like a good roast, the wine is “flavorful, fruity, and lush. It’s why they’re such great dance partners.” Take a Saucy Approach Sauces have a big impact on wine pairings, so this can be a great way to narrow your choices, said Madeline Puckette, content director of winefolly.com and co-author of the recent book “Wine Folly: The Essential Guide to Wine.” If you have sauces that are on the sweet-andsour side, including honey barbecue, finding a wine with a high fruitiness factor or a touch of sweetness will make sure the wine doesn’t get lost in the sauce. For example, she said, “You’ll be surprised at how awesome lambrusco pairs with sweet-style barbecue ribs. Delicious!”
See Red There’s some debate over whether “red with beef” and “white with chicken and pork” is an absolute or a rule made to be broken. For instance, as noted above, a white or rosé sparkler can often be a great accompaniment to roasts. Still, Puckette said there are some wines that are definitely better left out of the winter pairing equation and that would include soft whites such as chardonnay, pinot gris, and viognier. Pinot noir, with its lighter, red fruit character is a good choice for roasted feathered game such as guinea fowl, pheasant, duck, squab, or quail, said Richard Matuszczak, wine director at La Toque at The Westin Verasa Napa. “Some of these meats exhibit gamier flavors that can match the earthy qualities of pinot noir. The accompaniments here shouldn’t be too bold; good pinot noir is more about subtlety and silk texture,” he said. For older, aged cabernet sauvignons, think about balancing that drier fruit character with a richer red meat like a medium-rare rib-eye steak, said Matuszczak. Cabernet franc from the Loire region in France has “a savory, herbal character that pairs especially well with green veggies,” said David Castleberry, sommelier at the RN74 restaurant in San Francisco.
W i Din n n at er
Get Intense “The key to making a great pairing with any dish is to match the intensity of the wine with the food,” said Puckette. So, beef brisket is going to take a more intensely flavored wine than roast chicken. Some examples of wines that go great with brisket include syrah, pinotage (a grape found in many South
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Lamb shank dish with a Tuscan bean ragu, natural jus, and “gremolata” is paired with Shafer Merlot and Relentless wines at Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa, Calif.
Think Italian Roast meats and vegetables are “meant to be savored, eaten slowly, and enjoyed over the course of time. The wine should be bold enough and hearty enough to stand up to the succulence of the meat while slowly opening and displaying a beautiful bouquet of complexity,” said Eleonora Tirapelle, beverage director of the Black Barn restaurant in New York. She suggests sagrantino, a red grape native to Umbria in Italy. “Big, bold and elegant. One of my go-to vineyards is Colpetrone. They make a Gold Sagrantino di Montefalco in the best years that ages for almost five years before its release. Great wine.” Serving roast chicken? From the same region she likes Perticaia’s Rosso di Montefalco. “Full-bodied with wild raspberries and blueberries on the palate. It’s sure to please.”
Sip, Sip Syrah Castleberry likes to pick wines that mirror the
Lau t
ept
Sauces have a big impact on wine pairings, so this can be a great way to narrow your choices.
flavors of the roast. “I’m on a big syrah kick right now,” he said. “I think they are the perfect match, like a Tinder ‘swipe right’ match!” France has some great values from CrozesHermitage and Saint-Joseph, two appellations in the northern Rhone wine region. Castleberry also likes Samsara wines from California’s central coast. Not in the mood for meat? Vegetables that take to roasting well, like sweet peppers, eggplant, and mushrooms, can pair nicely with a syrah, said Matuszczak. “I would prefer one with a few years of bottle age, when syrah can begin to develop secondary aroma and flavor characteristics that remind me of things like black Kalamata olives and black pepper.”
From The Associated Press
Perfect for the Weekend a Well-Seasoned, Low and Slow Lamb By Sara Moulton I love lamb in all its guises: lamb chops, lamb stew, rack of lamb, ground lamb, souvlaki... You name it, I dig it. But my favorite is a big old leg of lamb, seasoned and roasted, with each succulent slice landing on the plate like a steak unto itself. At the supermarket, you have a choice. Leg of lamb is available on the bone or off the bone and butterflied (in which form it’s scored to an even thickness). Buying it on the bone has two advantages. The first has to do with taste; the meat next to the bone is sure to be moist. The second has to do with presentation; serving leg of lamb on the bone is an act of drama. (I imagine a medieval feast with everyone sitting around the leg of lamb.) But carving a leg of lamb on the bone can be a challenge. If you start instead with a boneless roast and tie it into a roll before roasting, carving is a snap. Another advantage of working with the boneless guys is that you can season the inside as well as the outside. The secret agent—surprise, surprise—is salt. When you rub the cut side of a butterflied roast a few hours ahead of time with an herb mixture containing salt, the meat deeply absorbs flavor from the herbs and garlic. Another way to ensure that your leg of lamb turns out tasty and juicy is to slowroast it. The lower temperature—275 F as opposed to 350 F or higher—ensures that the lamb will be cooked to the same degree of doneness from edge to edge. If you bake it at a higher temperature, the outer edge of the roast becomes more well done than the inside; each slice will feature just a bull’s eye of medium-rare (my favorite) meat. Happily, if you do indeed slow-roast your
leg of lamb, the outside edge will become just brown enough, saving you the extra step of having to sear the meat on top of the stove or under the broiler. But letting the roast rest, preferably for 30 minutes, is key. The resting time allows the juices to redistribute. If you carved the meat right away, the juices would all stream out willy-nilly, leaving the leg woefully dry. While the lamb rests, some juices will seep out onto the platter. You’ll want to collect those and pour some of this liquid gold over each portion when you serve it. From The Associated Press
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Mastering Homemade Teriyaki Sauce With Five Delicious Recipes By J.M. Hirsch If you’re still using teriyaki sauce from a bottle, you’re doing it all wrong. And you’re depriving yourself of the awesomeness that is homemade teriyaki. I didn’t set out to master DIY teriyaki sauce, but my 11-year-old suddenly started craving the stuff. Not even sure where he ate it that it was so good to inspire almost nightly requests for it. But knowing how simple this potent sweet-savory sauce is to make, I refused to buy it. It took a few attempts, but eventually
I nailed an incredibly versatile and delicious version. And by versatile, I mean I slather it on whatever protein I have on hand—chicken, steak, pork, or salmon. I’ve included the basic recipe for the sauce, as well as instructions for using it on each of those dishes. Then, just for fun, I added a slow cooker version of the chicken. Because the only thing better than a delicious chicken teriyaki is a delicious chicken teriyaki that practically cooks itself. From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
RECIPE
RECIPE
TERIYAKI SAUCE
SLOW COOKER CHICKEN TERIYAKI WITH CARROTS
Prep & Cooking Time: 5 minutes Makes: 1 cup • • • • • •
1/4 cup water 1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce 1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar 1/4 cup sugar 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2 teaspoons Sriracha (or other hot sauce) • 1 teaspoon garlic powder • 1 teaspoon ground ginger
Prep & Cooking Time: 4 hours, 20 minutes (20 minutes active) Serves: 6 • 3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breasts • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour • 2 tablespoons canola oil • 1 tablespoon butter • 1 pound carrots, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks • 1 large yellow onion, roughly chopped • 1/4 cup water • 1/4 cup low-sodium soy sauce • 1/4 cup seasoned rice vinegar • 1/4 cup sugar • 1 tablespoon sesame oil • 2 teaspoons Sriracha (or other hot sauce) • 1 teaspoon garlic powder • 1 teaspoon ground ginger • Cooked white or brown rice
through the flour to lightly coat. Shake off any excess.
DIRECTIONS
In a large skillet over medium-high, heat the oil and butter until hot. Working in batches, briefly sear the chicken breasts on both sides just until lightly browned, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the chicken to a 4-quart or larger slow cooker. Add the carrots and onion. In a small bowl, mix together the water, soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, Sriracha, garlic powder and ginger. Pour over the chicken and carrots, then stir to coat. Cook on high for 4 hours or low for 6 hours.
One at a time, dredge the chicken breasts
Serve the chicken and carrots over rice.
Slow-roasting lamb makes it succulent and evenly done from edge to edge.
DIRECTIONS In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients and whisk until the sugar is dissolved. Chicken: Slice boneless, skinless chicken breasts into thin strips. Add them to the sauce, then refrigerate up to 24 hours. When ready to cook, set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet. Coat the rack with cooking spray. Arrange the chicken strips in an even layer on the rack, then set under the broiler on the oven’s middle shelf for 3 to 5 minutes, or until just starting to brown. Flip the chicken pieces, then cook for another 3 to 5 minutes. Meanwhile, pour the marinade into a small
saucepan over medium-high and boil for 3 minutes. When the chicken comes out of the oven, drizzle the boiled marinade over the pieces. Pork: Substitute pork tenderloin, similarly sliced, for the chicken breasts above and follow the same method. Steak: Cut a 1 1/2-pound flank steak against the grain into thin strips. Add to the teriyaki sauce and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. When ready to cook, heat a large skillet over medium-high. Add a couple tablespoons of canola, vegetable, or sesame oil. When the oil is hot, use tongs or a fork to remove the steak from the marinade and add to the skillet. Cook for 2 to 4 minutes. You want it barely cooked. Add the marinade to the pan and bring to a simmer. Cook for another 1 to 2 minutes. Serve the steak and sauce over rice or noodles. Salmon: Arrange 4 salmon fillets on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Brush each liberally with teriyaki sauce. Broil on the oven’s middle shelf for 1 to 2 minutes, then brush with additional teriyaki. Repeat this process 3 to 4 times, or until the salmon is just cooked and well glazed, a total of about 6 to 8 minutes under the broiler. Garnish with chopped scallions, sesame seeds or both.
RECIPE SLOW-ROASTED HERBED LEG OF LAMB Prep & Cooking Time: 5 1/2 hours (40 minutes active) Serves: 8
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
• 1/4 cup minced garlic • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano (or 1 tablespoon dried) • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme (or 1 tablespoon dried) • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary (or 2 teaspoons dried) • 1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt • 2 teaspoons ground black pepper • 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil • 6- to 7-pound butterflied boneless l eg of lamb, with an 1/8-inch-thick fat layer left on the outside and trimmed of excess pockets of internal fat on the inside
DIRECTIONS In a small bowl combine all the ingredients except the lamb. Rub the herb mixture evenly on both sides of the lamb and let the lamb rest, at room temperature, for 2 hours.
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
• Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet.
Heat the oven to 275 F.
• Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients.
Place the lamb, fat side down, on a cutting board. Starting at the short end, roll up the lamb tightly and tie it crosswise with kitchen twine in 1 inch intervals. Tie a string around the roast lengthwise, weaving it into some of the crosswise strings as you go. Place the lamb on a rack set in a large roasting pan, fat side up.
• Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
Roast on the oven’s middle shelf until the lamb reaches 125 F at the center for medium-rare meat, about 2 hours to 2 hours 15 minutes.
A perfect weekend meal: Lamb slowroasted, with fresh green herbs and served with a salad.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine
Remove the roast from the oven, transfer it to a platter, and let it rest, loosely covered with foil, for 20 to 30 minutes before carving. To carve, remove all the string, and, using a large carving or chef’s knife, slice the meat crosswise into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Transfer the slices to serving plates and top each portion with some of the juices that accumulated on the plate while the roast was resting.
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RECIPE ROUGH PUFF PASTRY
Puff Pastry Hors d’Oeuvres for the Pastry Impaired Home Cook By Sara Moulton So you’ve decided to host an Oscars party this year, but you aren’t sure what to serve. Because obviously you want something extra fancy, something that will allow you to shine nearly as brightly as those folks on the red carpet. My advice is to serve up a slate of hors d’oeuvres wrapped in puff pastry, the superelegant dough perfected by—who else?—the French. In France, it’s called mille-feuille, which translates into “a thousand leaves.” That’s their way of describing the recipe’s many layers of fat sandwiched between an equal number of layers of dough. The pastry puffs up as the trapped butter gives off steam as it cooks, resulting in a confection that is remarkably light and airy. But it’s not exactly a breeze to produce. So here’s a simpler version, known variously as rough puff pastry, quick puff pastry, or blitz puff pastry. It’s actually not much quicker than full blown puff pastry, but it certainly is much easier to prepare. This recipe yields about a pound of dough, enough to produce several dozen hors d’oeuvres. It is followed by some suggestions for fillings for those hors d’oeuvres. Making rough puff pastry is like making regular old pie dough, at least to start. You combine butter and flour, then add ice-cold water. But for rough puff pastry you don’t break down the butter into small chunks, as you would for pie dough. Rough puff pastry should look downright shaggy and chunky after you’ve first mixed it. It won’t become very smooth until you roll and fold it and develop all those layers. Puff pastry freezes beautifully when it is protected by plastic wrap and foil, so it’s a great choice to prep it ahead of the party. Cut it into
Folding and rolling your dough creates hundreds of flaky layers.
PHOTOS BY VINICEF/ISTOCK
quarters first, then sock it away. The day before the event put the pastry in the refrigerator to let it slowly defrost. On the day of the party, work with one piece at a time, keeping the remaining sections chilled until you need them. As it bakes, puff pastry blows up to eight times its original height without the aid of a leavener. It is one of baking’s miracles. Even if you don’t consider yourself a baker, give it a whirl. I tend to consider myself pastry impaired. But if I can do it, so can you. And here are some tips to keep in mind while mixing, rolling, and folding the dough: • Make sure all the ingredients are cold. • When you first roll out the dough, its edges will be round-ish. Square them off with a bench scraper or knife. As you fold the dough, make sure that the ends and the corners of all three folds stack up right on top of each other. • Work quickly and sprinkle enough flour on the counter, the dough, and the rolling pin to keep the dough from sticking. • Dust off the flour before folding the dough. • Don’t skip the resting times between folds; it allows the gluten to relax and reduces shrinkage. And here are some tips for rolling out the dough to make hors d’oeuvres: • Refrigerate the rolled dough briefly (about 15 minutes) before cutting it. • Use a sharp knife to make straight firm cuts and avoid squishing the sides. Squished sides make the layers stick together, which prevents them from rising. • Don’t let the egg wash get on the cut edges, which can glue them shut in the oven. From The Associated Press PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts
57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Asian Fusion Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.
15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
Puff pastry hors d’oeuvres filled with Gorgonzola cheese, chopped prunes, and crumbled bacon.
Uncle Ted’s Chinese
163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE Puff pastry hors d’oeuvres filled with brie, chopped apricots, and topped with serrano chili.
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St.
Pigs in a blanket topped with caraway seeds.
(btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS
403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com
Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings
Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
In a large bowl, mix the flour and salt. Add the butter and working quickly with your hands, break up the butter until it is in small (about 1/2- to 3/4 -inch) chunks. Add 1/2 cup ice water and stir the mixture just until the water is incorporated. Squeeze the dough to see if it holds together. If it does not, add more ice water, a tablespoon at a time, just until the dough holds together when squeezed. Quickly gather all of the dough together, dump it on the counter (it will look like a shaggy mess) and shape it into a rough rectangle. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and chill for 20 minutes. Lightly dust the counter with flour. Unwrap the chilled dough and set it on the counter. Lightly dust the top of the dough and the rolling pin with a bit of flour. Roll the dough into a 6-by-10-inch rectangle. Square off the edges by trimming them as needed. Starting with the short ends at the top and the bottom, fold the top third down to the center and the bottom third up to cover the first fold, like a business letter. Chill for 30 minutes. Set the dough on a lightly floured counter, placing it so a short side is facing you. Roll out the dough as before, then fold again in the same manner. Chill for 30 minutes. Repeat this process two more times for a total of 4 roll and chill cycles. Wrap well and chill for at least 1 hour before making the hors d’oeuvres. Using a sharp knife, cut the dough into 4 equal pieces and proceed with the recipe suggestions below, working with one piece of dough at a time (keeping the other pieces chilled), or wrap the dough in plastic wrap and foil and freeze it until ready to use.
Cheese-Filled Puff Pastry Cups Heat the oven to 400 F. Roll 4 ounces (a quarter) of the dough on a lightly floured counter into an 8-inch square. Chill for 15 to 20 minutes before trimming the edges and cutting the square into nine 3-inch squares. Ease the squares into a mini-muffin tin, letting the edges flop over the top of each cup, being careful not to stretch the dough. Brush the flopped over edges lightly with an egg wash made by beating 1 large egg with 1 teaspoon water. Proceed with a filling recipe below.
Bake the cups, empty, for 13 to 15 minutes, or until lightly browned. Combine chopped chilled brie with an equal amount of finely chopped dried apricots. Spoon some of the mixture into each cup, then return to the oven for another 4 to 5 minutes. Serve hot or cooled, and topped with a few thin crosscut slices of serrano chili. Heat the oven to 400 F. Roll out 4 ounces (a quarter) of the dough on a lightly floured counter into an 8-inch square. Chill for 15 to 20 minutes before trimming the edges. Cut the dough into 12 long triangles, then brush one side of the triangles liberally with Dijon mustard, avoiding the tip. Place a cocktail hot dog at the wide end of each triangle. Brush the tip with an egg wash made by beating 1 large egg with 1 teaspoon water. Roll up the triangle to enclose the hot dog. Brush the outside of the hot dog packages with the egg wash and sprinkle with caraway seeds. Chill for 15 minutes before baking. Arrange on a parchment-lined baking sheet and bake on the oven’s middle shelf for 20 minutes, or until golden brown.
Smoked Salmon Napoleons
BATTERY PARK
BROOKLYN
DIRECTIONS
Elegant Pigs in a Blanket
Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
• 2 cups (8 1/2 ounces) all-purpose flour • 1/4 teaspoon table salt • 12 tablespoons cold butter, cut into 1-inch pieces • Ice water
Fillings: Bake the cups, empty, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until puffed and golden brown. Meanwhile, soak 6 ounces pitted and chopped prunes in warm port wine for 20 minutes, then drain. Combine the prunes with equal parts crumbled Gorgonzola cheese and crumbled cooked bacon. Spoon some of the mixture into each cup, then serve.
GREENWICH VILLAGE
SenYa Japanese
Prep & Baking Time: 4 hours (30 minutes active) Makes: About 1 pound
A puff pastry napoleon filled with smoked salmon and sour cream.
Heat the oven to 375 F. Roll out 4 ounces (a quarter) of the dough on a lightly floured counter into an 8-inch square. Chill for 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the square to a baking sheet lined with kitchen parchment. Prick the dough all over with a fork, then cover with another sheet of parchment. Place a second baking sheet, the same size as the first one, over the dough. Bake on the oven’s middle shelf for 15 minutes. Remove the top baking sheet and parchment, then bake for another 5 minutes, or until golden brown. Remove the pastry from the oven and let cool. Trim the square so it is even and cut it into 12 squares. Top a square with 1 teaspoon of the smoked salmon mixture (recipe below), then set a second square over that. Top the second square with another teaspoon of the mixture, then a third square of pastry. Finish the stack with a dab of sour cream and a sprinkle of chopped fresh chives. Filling: In a medium bowl, mix together 4 ounces chopped smoked salmon and 4 ounces of sour cream or creme fraiche. Stir in chopped, drained capers, lemon juice, minced shallots or scallions, a little horseradish or Dijon mustard, and salt and pepper, all to taste.
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Our original “Wafu Dashi”, and MOCU’s original blend of 746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) Okonomi-yaki sauce. 212-765-0197 Mocu-Mocu.com
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
Baguette is the best vehicle for herby butter, cheese, and bacon.
All the flavors of Asia, under one roof
Want Easy Elegance for an Oscars Party? Go With Crostini By Katie Workman They sound simple. Crostini, that is. Slices of bread that have been brushed with olive oil and toasted, then topped with something that need be no more complex than a sprinkle of salt and a generous rub with a fresh garlic clove. Of course, something more complex is nice, too. I’m talking to you, tomato and Parmesan and anchovy. Let’s start with the bread. Baguettes are the way to go. If your baguette is thin, it’s best to slice it on a slight diagonal. This gives you more surface area to play with. And mess around with the time that you toast those slices. If you like your crostini crisp, toast them a bit longer. Want them with a bit of chewy give in the middle? Ease off the toasting time. The toasts also are lovely grilled over live fire
when the weather allows. Next up, the toppings. My crostini feature a base of herby honey butter, barely ripe pears, a bit of tangy goat cheese, and a few nuggets of crispy bacon. You can use whatever pears you like. There are lots of varieties to choose from (Bosc, Barlett, and Anjou, to name a few). And using a couple of different kinds of pears makes for a very attractive platter. While these are very simple to make, they give off more than a slight air of elegance. Passing them to start off an awards party while someone pours some sparkling wine won’t actually transport you to the red carpet, but wouldn’t you rather be home eating crostini and sipping bubbly anyway? Yeah, me, too. From The Associated Press
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana
RECIPE GOAT CHEESE AND PEAR CROSTINI
Arbor Bistro • 226 W. Houston St. (btw. Varick & Bedford) 212-255-7888 • arborbistronyc.com
Fresh Lobster Bisque • 4 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled
DIRECTIONS
Prep & Baking Time: 30 minutes Makes: 30
Heat the oven to 350 F. Line a baking sheet with kitchen parchment or foil.
• 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature (very soft) • 1/4 cup honey • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme (or 1/3 teaspoon dried) • 1 long baguette, sliced into 1/3- to 1/2-inch-thick slices (about 30) • 2 ripe pears, quartered, cored, and thinly sliced lengthwise • 1/2 cup crumbled fresh goat cheese
In a small bowl, mix together the butter, honey, salt, and thyme. Spread a bit of the butter mixture over each slice of baguette, then arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. It’s fine if they touch, but they should not overlap. Use 2 baking sheets if needed. Bake for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the edges of the bread are lightly browned. Remember that they will harden as they cool, so take them out before they get too crisp. Top each toast with 1 or 2 slices of pear, then a bit of goat cheese and a sprinkle of crumbled bacon. Serve hot or at room temperature.
Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
Watching the Oscars? Give Your Party Mix a Classy Overhaul By Alison Ladman Don’t even think about serving that old classic “party mix” at your Oscars party. This isn’t an 8-year-old’s birthday party. This is red carpet material, even if it’s in your living room. So it’s time to class up your party mix act. And with this recipe for spiced bacon pecans, you’ll have no trouble. We start with bacon because, well, because all good things start with bacon. Once the bacon is nice and crispy, all you have to do is toss in some pecans and a whole mess of seasonings. A bit of brown sugar ties it all together. Not a fan of pecans? Peanuts, cashews, or walnuts would be just as delicious. From The Associated Press
RECIPE SPICED BACON PECANS Prep & Cooking Time: 15 minutes Makes: 2 1/2 cups • • • • • • •
4 strips bacon, diced 2 cups pecan halves 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon cayenne 1/2 teaspoon flaked salt 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 3 tablespoons brown sugar
Sevens’ Mixed Grill
A Turkish Feast
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DIRECTIONS Line a rimmed baking sheet with kitchen parchment. In a large skillet over medium heat, cook the bacon until almost crispy. Add the pecans and toss to coat thoroughly, then cook, stirring frequently, until evenly toasted, 2 to 3 minutes. In a small bowl, combine the cinnamon, cayenne, salt, pepper, and brown sugar. Toss with the bacon and pecans and cook for another minute. Spread out on the prepared baking sheet and allow to cool fully. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.
4 1/2 star rating on Trip Advisor & 4 star rating on Open Table! MEDITERRANEAN TURKISH GRILL
158 West 72nd St. NY • (212) 724-4700
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@EpochTaste
February 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Serving Up Cocktails With a Cinematic Twist By Michelle Locke Silver shakers and the silver screen go back a long time. Think French 75 from “Casablanca” and Agent 007’s dry martinis. So for those of you planning to drink along at home for the Feb. 28 showing of the Oscars this year, now might be a good time to get your cocktail act together. And Tim Federle, author of “Gone with the Gin,” has a few ideas about that. From The Moon-Shining—moonshine, ruby red grapefruit juice, rum, that’s right, red rum—to Tequila Sunrise Boulevard (probably best NOT served poolside), the bestselling author has a lineup of cinematically inspired cocktails meant to be shaken, stirred, and sipped with tongue planted firmly in cheek. Bubbly as a Champagne cocktail, “Gone with the Gin” nonetheless has serious underpinnings. Federle worked with talented bartender Cody Goldstein, founder of Muddling Memories, a craft cocktail and bar consulting firm in New York. There are also useful sections on tools, techniques, and even some fun food recipes. “The approach was humorous and, yeah, they’d better taste good, too,” said Federle. This cinematic cocktail collection follows Federle’s “Tequila Mockingbird,” which featured literary libations. For “Gone with the Gin,” Federle started by making a spreadsheet of the American Film Institute’s top 100 films. Then, he looked for cocktail-friendly titles. So “White Christmas” plus white Russian became a drink called White Russian Christmas. Then he and Goldstein looked for ways to tweak the recipes to match the movies. For the White Russian Christmas, the classic recipe—vodka, coffee liqueur, and cream—got a seasonal twist of vodka, creme de menthe, coffee liqueur, eggnog, and crushed candy cane for a garnish. (And for those movie buffs for whom this particular drink conjures up only one flick, the book also contains a Big Le-Brewski, a vodka, coffee, and cream of coconut concoc-
tion in honor of the white Russian loving dude of “The Big Lebowski.”) In all, Federle serves up 50 recipes organized by genre (drama, sci-fi, and so on), and each recipe comes with a brief but informative blurb about the movie in question. And if you are a punster, the titles will be a delight. A standout: The Muppets Make Manhattans. Some of the cute drink names were arrived at with the help of Federle’s thousands of Twitter followers, who also voted on which proposed title for the book they liked best. Recipes aren’t just cleverly titled; they also have cunning tie-ins to the films. For example, hibiscus tea in the cocktail Boozy and the Beast echoes the roses of “Beauty and the Beast.” And Citizen Grain, named for the groundbreaking “Citizen Kane,” includes grain alcohol and just a touch of rose water. No promises that drinking it will help you better get to the bottom of the whole, Rosebud thing, though. Goldstein was particularly pleased with “Star Wars”-themed The Empire Likes Jack, which contains Jack Daniel’s, ice cream and root beer. “It’s basically a root beer float. You’re dropping the light aspect, the vanilla ice cream, into the root beer, which is the dark side.” Some sections took more time than others. “We had a lot of days sitting and eating takein and just going over some stuff,” said Goldstein. An honest man, he admitted that was “a really good time.” Federle, who grew up in San Francisco and Pittsburgh before moving to New York to dance on Broadway as a teenager, writes in multiple genres, including young adult fiction. His current project is cowriting “Tuck Everlasting,” a forthcoming Broadway musical based on the novel by Natalie Babbitt. Like Goldstein, Federle seems happy in his work. “Everything that got me sent to the principal’s office as a kid gets me paid now,” he said. From The Associated Press
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
RECIPE MONTY PYTHON AND THE STOLI GRAIL Total Time: 5 minutes Serves: 1 • • • • •
1 1/2 ounces vodka 1 ounce light rum 1 ounce coconut water 2 ounces pineapple juice Sparkling wine, to serve
DIRECTIONS In an ice-filled cocktail shaker, combine the vodka, rum, coconut water, and pineapple juice. Shake well, then strain into an ice-filled rocks glass. Top with a splash of sparkling wine. Recipe adapted from “Gone with the Gin” by Tim Federle (Running Press, 2015)
Proof that bacon makes everything better.
RECIPE THE MUPPETS MAKE MANHATTANS Total Time: 5 minutes Serves: 1 • • • • •
2 ounces apple brandy 3/4 ounce sweet vermouth 1/2 ounce apple juice 1 1/2 teaspoons honey 3 dashes baked apple bitters (or orange bitters) • Green apple slice, to garnish • Bacon, to serve
DIRECTIONS In a mixing glass filled with ice, combine all ingredients except the apple. Stir well, then strain into a cocktail glass and garnish with the apple slice. Serve with a slice of bacon (with apologies to Miss Piggy). Recipe adapted from “Gone with the Gin” by Tim Federle (Running Press, 2015)