SAM HORINE/CLARKSON POTTER/PUBLISHERS
D1 March 18–24, 2016
Crock-Pot Kalbijjim on
D3
www.EpochTaste.com
The rich, fascinating world beyond bibimbap and barbecue.
A E R KO N W O T , y k n u f in s e r u Advent s u o ci i l e d d n a f iery, SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
I
f your only knowledge of Korean cuisine is bibimbap, it’s OK, Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard will forgive you. This comforting rice dish, mixed with pickles, vegetables, grilled meats, and topped with a fried egg, is the “gateway to bigger, better things,” as they are both fond of saying. From LA to Atlanta, Hong and Rodbard visited Koreatowns across the US.
Hong and Rodbard are the authors of the new cookbook “Koreatown: A Cookbook.” It is an unusual cookbook; its point of view is not from your usual home kitchen—rather, its dishes, chefs, and traditions, even down to the drinking games, are from the many Koreatowns around the United States. The pair worked for two years on the project, criss-crossing America—and like people who have spent a lot of time together, they tend to finish each other’s sentences.
See Koreatown on D2
Deuki Hong (L) and Matt Rodbard, authors of “Koreatown: A Cookbook,” in Manhattan’s Koreatown.
D2
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPO
CH TIMES
SAMIR A
BOUAO
U/EPO C
H TIMES
Strolling the streets of Manhattan’s Koreatown on a summer evening.
N W O T A E KOR Koreatown continued from D1
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Cravings can say a lot about people. Hong, the classically trained chef-owner at the popular Kang Ho Dong Baekjong in Manhattan’s Koreatown, has cheffy tastes; it’s fried chicken all the way for him: “Korean fried chicken, southern fried chicken, crappy fried chicken.” For Rodbard, it’s doenjang jjigae, a fermented bean stew. “I could eat that dish three times a week,” he said. “It just hits you in a really unique place—it’s funky, salty, really beefy. There’s clams so it’s a little briny. Umami flows through your body when you eat it.” A selfdescribed “white boy Jew from Kalamazoo,” Rodbard caught the Korean food bug years ago and wrote a guidebook to New York City’s top Korean restaurants—a project during which he met Hong. The two have written one of those rare cookbooks you actually want to read from cover to cover, in a let’s-be-real, I-gotta-let-you-inon-this voice, with entertaining sidebars—for example, “Q&A: Why Two-Year-Olds Need to Eat Kalbi,” or the unquestionably relevant “How to Cook Korean Food at Home Without Pissing Off Your Neighbors.” Along the way they invite in lovers of Korean food to wax poetic—from chef David Chang to Los Angeles food critic Jonathan Gold to Linkin Park DJ Joe Hahn. A final section includes recipes by guests chefs including Eric Ripert and Amanda Cohen. But the heart of the book, and its inspiration, is Koreatown. “It’s a very proud food culture that is [about] making food primarily for themselves,” said Rodbard of the unifying feature that links the Koreatowns that he and Hong visited. With the exception of Manhattan’s Koreatown, where competition and real estate prices are high, he explained, Korean restaurants don’t market themselves. “At most Korean restaurants there might not be lot of English on the menu. The dishes are uncompromisingly Korean,” Rodbard said, “I just love that about Korean food. You’re finding this very industrious, proud people, making it work for them, making food they’re proud of.” Koreatowns “Koreatown” captures slices of America, taking readers to places that are staunchly traditional, with dishes that you’d find in Seoul, and others that seamlessly integrate Korean ingredients with the regional cuisine. “We say it all the time with no hesitation,” said Hong, “L.A. has the best Korean food in the U.S. We almost say it’s better than Seoul, Korea, itself.” The most prominent Koreatown in the United States is in Los Angeles, where it spans over 5 miles. “L.A. is the beating heart of Korean food and culture in America,” said Rodbard. “You’re going to find these restaurants that focus on single dishes: a bone broth restaurant, you’re going to find three, four different restaurants that serve chicken and ginseng [soup], or kimbap.” In Atlanta, Hong and Rodbard visited friends Cody Taylor and Jiyeon Lee, who own the barbecue restaurant, Heirloom Market BBQ. “It’s American barbecue, there’s nothing about it that says Korean,” said Hong. “But when you ask Cody, ‘Hey what’s in this marinade? It tastes different.’ It’s Korean soybean paste, it’s Korean chili paste. Things like that work well with the South. It’s perfect integration.” Manhattan’s Koreatown, focused on 32nd Street, has a different vibe, rising vertically and drawing a diverse crowd. “Walking out there at 11 o’clock there’s probably nothing like that in the world. You feel like you’re in Seoul,” said Hong.
At most Korean restaurants there isn’t a lot of English on the menu. The dishes are uncompromisingly Korean. Matt Rodbard, co-author, ‘Koreatown’
CLARK
SON PO TTER
Recipes The recipes, developed in Hong’s kitchen, include many of the “greatest hits” found in Koreatowns. The longest chapter—and a hint as to what lies beyond Korean Food 101—is all about soups, stews, and braises. Winters get very cold in Korea (think Siberian wind chill), so dishes like stews are fundamental: soondubu jjigae (a soft tofu stew), seolleongtang (a beef bone noodle soup), and gamjatang (a spicy pork neck and potato stew). Seafood also figures prominently, often forming the base for stocks. But even though its inspiration is rooted in Koreatown, the cookbook’s bottom line isn’t authenticity. It’s deliciousness. When Hong looked to develop a recipe for kimchee fried rice, he asked himself, “What’s the best version of kimchee fried rice? That’s how I approached it.” The result? It’s called Our Mildly Insane Kimchi Bokkeumbap, a version amped up with gochujang butter and “an insane amount” of bacon (that’s half a pound serving two people). Rodbard makes a comparison to mashed potatoes at Thanksgiving. You can have regular mashed potatoes, or “you can keep adding butter until it’s half and half. We just kept adding more and more bacon.” “Are these recipes fusion? Are they Korean-Korean? We didn’t care,” Hong said. Because—the bottom line in all of this— it’s what’s uncompromisingly delicious. “Koreatown: A Cookbook” by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard (Clarkson Potter, February 2016, $30)
Matt Rodbard also wrote the “Korean Restaurant Guide New York,” which lists the top 40 Korean restaurants in the city. Here are a few of his favorite spots. In Manhattan, go to Cho Dang Gol: “They do kalbijjim and really good tofu soups,” he said. At Hanbat “they do many dishes in one place. They’re all very good.” Or take the LIRR to Murray Hill; Rodbard recommends Han Joo, known for its samgyeopsal, barbecued pork belly.
SAM HORINE/CLARKSON POTTER/PUBLISHERS
For the recipe, see EpochTaste.com
Our Mildly Insane Kimchi Bokkeumbap, a kimchee fried rice dish with bacon and more bacon.
D3
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Crock-Pot Kalbijjim, From ‘Koreatown’ This dish simply speaks to us—a recipe that uses traditional Korean flavors but with a preparation that is wholly American. The Crock-Pot was invented in 1971 by a Chicagoan named Irving Naxon, whose grandmother grew up eating slow-cooked cholent in her Lithuanian shtetl. With Naxon’s electric slow cooker, a generation of Americans was raised on the culinary principal of “set it and forget it.” This recipe has been created with just that in mind. After going low and slow for six hours, beef ribs become fall-off-the-bone tender while the vegetables glaze themselves in a robust, umami-rich sauce. There’s natural sweetness from the apples and mirin and a savory edge from the soy sauce. It’s a can’t-miss combination. For many Koreans, kalbijjim is considered a special-occasion dish, the one Mom makes to celebrate life’s big achievements, like acing that calculus test or being named all state in tennis. This is because short ribs are expensive, especially in Korea. When preparing our version, it’s important to take care with the initial sear on the ribs. Using the proper technique will pay dividends in the end, so fight the urge to flip quickly. If you can plan ahead, we recommend that you make this the day before serving. Refrigeration will allow the fat to solidify at the top, which can then be spooned out easily. Reheat gently and you’ve got yourself a winning dish. And here’s the move: Take it to a party and tell your friends it’s beef stew. They probably will shrug because, really, who brings beef stew to a party? But the stew will be dispersed. Umami will speak. The party will listen. SAM HORINE/CLARKSON POTTER/PUBLISHERS
Crock-pot meets Korean short ribs.
We merge traditional Italian recipes with dishes that take a playful approach to authenticity
NOW SERVING WEEKDAY LUNCH! Full Hours MON–SAT 12pm–4pm; 5pm–12am SUN 12pm–4pm; 5pm–11pm 129 W. 29th St. (btw. 6th & 7th avenues)
(212) 239-4199
'
WineDisciplesEnoteca.com
RECIPE CROCK-POT KALBIJJIM (BEEF SHORT RIB STEW) Serves: 4–6 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
1 cup soy sauce 1/4 cup mirin 1/4 cup sake Black pepper 1/2 cup peeled and chopped daikon radish 1 Asian pear, peeled, cored and sliced 1 red apple, peeled, cored and sliced 4 garlic cloves 4 pounds bone-in short ribs 1 teaspoon vegetable oil Kosher salt 4 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped 1 medium onion, quartered 1 medium carrot, cut into large dice 6 dried shiitake mushrooms, chopped 1 cup rice cakes (the disk-shaped variety used for soup) 1 cup beef stock
DIRECTIONS 1. In a food processor, blend the soy sauce, mirin, sake, 1 tablespoon black pepper, daikon radish, Asian pear, apple and garlic until smooth. 2. Rub the short ribs with the vegetable oil and season with ample kosher salt and pepper. Set a large cast-iron skillet over high heat, and, when very hot, sear the ribs until golden-brown on all sides, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Only sear as many ribs as will fit comfortably in the pan; work in batches if necessary. Resist the urge to turn the meat before every surface has formed a crust. Drain
the seared ribs of their fat. 3. Place the seared meat at the bottom of an electric slow cooker. Add the potatoes, onion, carrot and mushrooms on top. Cover with a layer of rice cakes and then pour in the soy sauce mixture and Beef Stock. The sauce may have settled, so give it a good stir before pouring.
The TheMust-Try Must-TryDish: Dish: AABronx BronxTail Tail Lobster Lobstertail tailwith withclams, clams, mussels, mussels,shrimp, shrimp,over overchopped chopped leeks and peppers leeks and peppersserved served with withaawhite whitewine winesaffron saffronsauce sauce
4. Cook on the Crock-Pot’s Low setting until the meat is fork tender and falls off the bone, about 6 hours. Serve with rice. ALTERNATIVELY, IF NOT USING A CROCK-POT If you’re not down with the electric cooker, that is very much OK. Sear the meat in a Dutch oven, drain the fat, and layer in the vegetables, rice cakes, sauce and Beef Stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to very low and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the meat is fork tender, about 2 hours. A NOTE ON BUYING SHORT RIBS Short ribs are expensive, and rightly so: they are delicious and prized for their fat content and ability to get really tender. You can find quality bone-in short ribs at your local butcher shop or any Korean grocery store. Make sure there is a good meat-to-bone ratio; though Korean markets sometimes cut off a portion of the top to sell as boneless short ribs, there should be a thick slab of meat on top, even a good inch or two if you are lucky. Recipe reprinted from “Koreatown” by Deuki Hong and Matt Rodbard. Copyright © 2016 by Matt Rodbard and Deuki Hong. Photos by Sam Horine. Published by Clarkson Potter/ Publishers, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC.
Actor Chazz Palminteri brings the best of his Sicilian heritage and the finest Italian cuisine to Midtown. This upscale Italian eatery features classic Italian meat, seafood, and pasta dishes, as well as antipasto and traditional Italian desserts. Private dining is available.
890 2nd Ave.
“It’s only the best if my name’s on it.”
(btw. 47th & 48th streets)
212-355-5540 chazzpalminterinyc.com
D4
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
BOULEY BOTANICAL
The New Umami Experience
stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF FRANCOIS PAYARD
Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
Monthly, from Tuesday, March 29 Bouley Botanical 281 Church St. davidbouley.com/bouley-events
VOILA CHOCOLAT CLASSES FOR CHILDREN NATIONAL MACARON DAY WITH FRANCOIS PAYARD
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
At chef David Bouley’s biodynamic farm-cum-restaurant, Bouley Botanical, he will host a new dinner and lecture series on nutrition with renowned doctors. The first event is with Dr. Frank Lipman, who will discuss common myths about food, health, and aging. Each dinner begins with a reception featuring canapes and a health tonic cocktail, then progresses to a multicourse menu with wine pairings—all relating to the health topic. Also in the series is a lecture about celiac disease with Dr. Peter H. R. Green, and a talk on gut health with Dr. Vincent Pedre. $197 per person.
We Now Deliver!
Pastry chef François Payard has created a new treat to celebrate National Macaron Day: a macaron donut. The donutshaped pastry features a creamy filling sandwiched between two macaron shells. A portion of the sales will go to City Harvest for anti-hunger efforts.
For parents with chocolate-loving children, now you can make their sweet habit an educational experience. The chocolate shop Voilà Chocolat has launched chocolate classes for children, where they will learn about the production process and chemistry behind making chocolate. Students will get to sample pure cacao and chocolates with different percentages of cacao. $5 per child. Tuesdays, 4 p.m.–5 p.m. Voilà Chocolat 221 W. 79th St. voila-chocolat.com
Sunday, March 20 Available online and in stores payard.com COURTESY OF BLT PRIME
GOOD FRANCE FESTIVAL
There are the restaurants you go to, and
The Restaurant You Go Back to.
I
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).
236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.patsys.com
For the second year, the Good France festival is celebrating French cuisine with 1,500 chefs from around the world, who will serve a special menu inspired by French cooking techniques and traditions. Each restaurant designs a menu with aperitifs and canapÊs, a starter, main courses, cheese, desserts, and French wines and Champagnes. Participating restaurants in New York include chef Alain Ducasse’s Benoit, chef Claude Godard’s Madison Bistro, and chef Didier Pawlicki’s La Sirene. At Benoit, chef Philippe Bertineau will prepare dishes like Vegetable Pot-Au-Feu with old fashioned mustard vinaigrette and Seared Sea Scallops served with Potatoes Anna and shaved black truffle ($90 per person). Monday, March 21 Benoit, 60 W. 55th St., benoitny.com For the full list, visit restaurateurs.goodfrance.com
SOUTH X SOUTH BROOKLYN WITH CHEFS MATT McCLURE AND ROB NEWTON The 2015 James Beard Award semifinalist chef Matt McClure (The Hive in Bentonville, Arkansas) will be teaming up with Rob Newton of the Brooklyn Vietnamese restaurant, Nightingale Nine, for a one night only collaborative dinner. The menu features dishes with ingredients from Arkansas (also Newton’s home state), like Sorghum Roasted Duck with sweet potatoes, kale, and pecan relish; Hanna Farm Grits Congee with veal cheeks, brown butter, and everything spice; and Braised Collards with tessa ham and mustard seeds. Monday, March 21 Nightingale Nine 329 Smith St., Brooklyn nightingalenine.com
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi, the storied Tuscan winery, is hosting a special dinner at the Italian restaurant, Caravaggio. The four-course menu will be paired with Frescobaldi wines, including a dish of Bay Scallops with tomato water and mustard oil, paired with a Gorgona Toscana, 2012; and Mushrooms Ravioli with foie gras paired with Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Castelgiocondo, 1999. $200 per person. Tuesday, March 22 7 p.m. Caravaggio 23 E. 74th St. caravaggioristorante.com For reservations, call 212-288-1004
The Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Castelgiocondo from Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi.
FOLIO WINE
FRESCOBALDI WINE DINNER
Creamy Spicy Char PokĂŠ with arctic char.
BLT PRIME SERVES POKE For the month of March, the steakhouse BLT Prime will serve “poke,â€? the Hawaiian sashimi salad dish, as a blackboard special. The recipes come from sister restaurant BLT Steak Waikiki in Hawaii. Each week, a different poke dish will be served, including the Creamy Spicy Char Poke, with arctic char, Kewpie mayonnaise, sriracha, soy sauce, toasted white sesame seeds, “tamagoâ€? roe, and crushed chili flakes; and the Octopus PokĂŠ with “peppadewâ€? aioli, roma tomatoes, spring onions, fried capers, crispy rice, and crispy paprika paper. Through March 31 BLT Prime 111 E. 22nd St. bltrestaurants.com/blt-prime/new-york-city
BEDFORD & CO SERVES LUNCH The newly opened restaurant by chef John DeLucie has launched its lunch service. Menu options are updates on classic American dishes like Mac & Cheese with cavatappi pasta, winter mushrooms, treviso, fontina, and ricotta, the Bedford Burger with Bloomsday cheddar, caramelized onions, pork belly, and housemade pickles on a Martin’s potato bun; and Gem Salad with pickled pearl onions, pumpernickel, and smoked trout vinaigrette. Bedford & Co 118 E. 40th St. bedfordandco.com
PIORA’S NEW PRIX FIXE MENU The Michelin-starred restaurant has a new tasting menu and patrons can choose dishes from the Garden (vegetables), the Sea (seafood), and the Land (meat and earthy dishes). Each category has three dishes, and diners can mix and match to their own liking. Options include Parsnip Agnolotti with a parmesan-and-roasted-parsnip-purÊe filling and a Meyer lemoninfused dough shell; Cobia fish with gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes), jujubes, apple cider, honey, and smoked kimchi; and Deconstructed Cassoulet Lamb with lamb loin crusted with violet mustard and onion ash, lamb sausage, and housecured lamb bacon. $62 for two courses; $85 for three courses. Piora 430 Hudson St. pioranyc.com
D5
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF BOQUERIA
COURTESY OF SALT CREEK GRILLE
AN EMPIRE STEAK OF MIND Boqueria’s Pork Meatballs with squid ink, seared Salt Creek Grille’s Osso Buco over Confetti baby squid, garlic aioli, and “picada.” Couscous with Onion Guiso.
THE PHILHARMONIA ORCHESTRA, PRESENTED THROUGH FOOD How does one interpret music through food? Five chefs have created dishes inspired by symphonies that will be performed at two upcoming concerts at Lincoln Center’s Rose Theater by the Philharmonia Orchestra of New York: Gustav Mahler’s “Resurrection” Symphony No. 2 and Hector Berlioz’s “Symphonie Fantastique.” Chefs Manuel Berganza of Andanada, for example, created the Roasted Lamb Loin with black trumpet mushrooms and carrots, in reference to the symbolic importance of lamb in Christianity, while Eder Montero of Txikito made a goulash-like dish of local venison with hot paprika and spring vegetables, as a nod to Mahler’s Austrian heritage. Through March 31 Concerts: Tuesday, March 29 & Wednesday, March 30 Participating restaurants: Andanada, Boqueria, Casa Mono, Txikito, Salt Creek Grille nyphilharmonia.com/concerts
EASTER HOT CROSS BUNS AT THE BRESLIN Chef April Bloomfield’s The Breslin is now baking hot cross buns, in time for the Easter holiday. The currant-studded pastries are available for takeout by the half dozen ($20). Bloomfield recommends toasting a bun, then topping it with butter and a dash of flaky salt. Orders are taken until noon on Fridays.
Through March 25 The Breslin 16 W. 29th St. thebreslin.com To order, email hotcrossbuns@thebreslin.com
Prime NY Sirloin
Filet Mignon served with steak fries
Chilean Sea Bass with choice of sides
Come for the impeccable service and supreme cuisine—from our family to your table. Beyond the dry-aged USDA Prime steak, we have wonderful seafood, including the buttery Chilean Sea Bass with its golden exterior and equally beautiful taste. Private dining rooms available for 200+ guests.
New Location
LEAGUE OF KITCHENS NEW CLASSES League of Kitchens, the cooking workshops where people are invited into immigrant homes to learn ethnic cuisines, has new classes featuring Japanese and Uzbek home cooking. Instructors Damira from Uzbekistan and Aiko from Japan will teach attendees how to cook traditional dishes from their native countries, like “dimlama,” a classic Uzbek beef and vegetable stew; and “barazushi,” rice mixed with fish and vegetables. Classes run regularly every month. $55 for 2.5 hour class, $149 for 5.5 hour class.
151 E. 50th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) (212) 582-6900
237 W. 54th St. (btw. 7th & 8th avenues) (212) 586-9700
EmpireSteakhousenyc.com
leagueofkitchens.com
BRET MACRIS
SYNDICATED BRUNCH MENU Syndicated, the new restaurant and movie theater, will now serve brunch, with American comfort food dishes like Loaded Breakfast Tots with pulled pork and scrambled eggs; Hash & Eggs with 28-day dryaged brisket marinated in stout; and Huevos Rancheros Burrito with chorizo, pinto beans, queso fresco, sautéed peppers, and onions. Cocktails include a spicy Bloody Mary with Tito’s Vodka and a blend of gochujang, banana pepper juice, A.1. steak sauce, Worcestershire, and basil; and “The Lawnmower Man” (named for the 1992 film starring Pierce Brosnan) with Hophead vodka, Cachaca 51 (Brazilian sugarcane spirit), and carrot juice.
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
Hash and Eggs at Syndicated.
Syndicated 40 Bogart St., Brooklyn syndicatedbk.com
CRAFT DISTILLERS FEST Drink to your heart’s content with over 60 different craft spirits from New-York-based distillers. The event is speakeasy-themed, complete with a live jazz band, and attendees are encouraged to dress in 1920s era garb. $95 to $165 per person.
Saturday, April 2 Session one: 1 p.m.–4 p.m. Session two: 7 p.m.–10 p.m. The Bowery Hotel 335 Bowery nyccraftdistillersfest.com
TASTE OF FIFTH Park Slope is celebrating its budding dining scene with the Taste of Fifth festival, featuring local restaurants and bars like Brooklyn Bavarian Biergarten, Buttermilk Bakeshop, Uncle Louie G, Prospect Bar & Grill, Yayos Latin Cuisine, and more. Twenty dollars from each ticket goes to a local charity of your choice. $55 per person. Wednesday, April 6 6:30 p.m. The Grand Prospect Hall 263 Prospect Ave., Brooklyn ept.ms/TasteFifth
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
sagaponacknyc.com
D6
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Chef Daniel Humm, the honoree at the 2016 C-CAP Annual Benefit.
The hungry crowd at the 2016 C-CAP Annual Benefit. Chef Marcus Samuelsson, with udon noodles from his restaurant, Streetbird Rotisserie.
TOP CHEFS GIVE BACK at C-CAP Benefit 2016
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff The space at Chelsea Piers was filled with major players from New York’s dining scene, but on March 9, the spotlight was on chef Daniel Humm (Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad), the honoree at this year’s benefit event for C-CAP. C-CAP (Careers Through Culinary Arts Program) is an organization that provides professional development to underprivileged youth who aspire to enter the restaurant and hospitality industry. The organization honored Humm for his longtime commitment to hiring C-CAP alums to work at his restaurants. The chef, who has earned three Michelin stars, attributes his
own success to the help of his mentors, who not only taught him cooking techniques, “but learning how to be patient, have drive, and remain passionate about the industry,” said Humm in an email interview. Chef Marcus Samuelsson, C-CAP’s chairman, said teaching and training is at the core of what chefs do. Even though Samuelsson is a successful restaurateur, he still frequently seeks advice from his mentors, chefs Leah Chase and Daniel Boulud. “It’s [mentoring] the one thing that never changes in the industry,” he said. “C-CAP teaches students to be mentors for the next generation.” He also hopes that every city can establish a C-CAP program, to help the industry achieve better diversity. Charred bread topped with “burrata,” spring peas, preserved ramps, and “nepitella,” by chef Andrew Whitcomb of Colonie.
Executive chef Maria Loi (L) and chef Dara Davenport of Loi Estiatorio.
Dal Moradabadi by chef Manish Mehrotra of Indian Accent.
Betony’s booth serves black truffle mushroom in dashi.
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
The Nuaa
❧
1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
D7
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF AMERICAN CUT
Openings around town
COURTESY OF LE COQ RICO
American Cut American Cut Midtown will open next week at the historic Lombardy Hotel. Executive chef and partner Marc Forgione will bring his modern American steakhouse fare, including signature items like the Chili Lobster Toast, OG 1924 Hotel Caesar, and the Tomahawk RibEye. Lighter fare including salads and a grilled fish section will be offered. The 6,000-square-foot dining room seats 130. American Cut Midtown will be LDV Hospitality’s flagship restaurant. American Cut will be open daily for lunch hours and dinner.
109 E. 56th St. 212-935-6600 americancutsteakhouse.com Giblets Platter.
OG 1924 Hotel Caesar. COURTESY OF LE COQ RICO
DRINK TO YOUR
HEALTH (HAS A NEW MEANING!) Seared Poppy-Seed Crusted Duck Foie Gras.
Le Coq Rico Antoine Westermann, who earned three Michelin stars, is opening his first New York bistro, Le Coq Rico. It is devoted to whole-animal poultry, raised responsibly. “Fowl is a world unto itself,” Westermann said in a press release. “Its flavor and texture changes depending on the region, breeder, age, and style of farming used.” The original Le Coq Rico is located in the Montmartre neighborhood of Paris on Rue Lepic. The whole birds are served to up to four people and include guinea hen, rooster, squb, and duck. Westermann features some traditional dishes such as Coq Au Vin, Poule Au Pot, and Westermann’s Baeckeoffe, a simplified version inspired by the Alsatian preparation of slow roasting in a casserole dish sealed with dough. The wine list will feature 150 wines, split between French and domestic winemakers. Open daily from noon.
Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pomegranate Soju
Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.
30 E. 20th St. (between Broadway & Park Avenue) 212-267-7426 lecoqriconyc.com
Mulberry & Vine The second outpost of casual healthy eatery Mulberry & Vine has opened in NoMad. The menu is globally inspired and features seasonal fare. The menu includes Charred Avocado with pumpkin seed Greek yogurt; Red Lentil and Kale Dal with carrots, ginger, and curry; and Mediterranean options such as Braised Chicken with capers and lemon. An infused water program features flavors such as lemon, charcoal, and cayenne and on that has cucumber, cilantro, and lemon. Open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. Closed on Sundays.
SOJU HAUS offers traditional, healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations. While traditional cocktails often deplete the
Sizzling Bulgogi
55 W. 27th St. (between Broadway & Sixth Avenue) 212-252-8468 mulberryandvine.com
body of nutrients, SOJU HAUS mindfully pairs food and drink for a more balanced effect on your body.
COURTESY OF MULBERRY & VINE
Coconut Soju
What to Try Tonight... Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
212-213-2177 315 5th Ave. 2nd Fl, NY NY
SOJUHAUS.COM
Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
Try it with the Lemon Soju Seafood Pancake
Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
Sunday – Wednesday 5:00 pm – 2:00 am Thursday 5:00 pm – 3:00 am Friday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 4:00 am
D8
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Celebrate with Us
HAPPY HOUR 10% OFF
Deliciously Sponsored
May Wah Vegetarian Market 21st Anniversary
sary Anniver 21st Year
All Frozen Retail Purchases
4&06 0*%#6 #, /, Cannot be combined with other discounts
++ &(#- &#%6 2. #2 &#+1 .- #+&
'.0 5)*+& 13//+*&1 +#12
- EVERY WEEKEND FROM 12 PM TO 4 PM
NYC’s Best Meat Alternative Market HUNDREDS OF CHOICES!
www.MayWahNYC.com
7Largest frozen vegan distributor in NYC with over 200 vegan products available 7No preservatives and made with NON GMO soybean
Taqueria Tehuitzingo
7Shipping available to anywhere in the USA, $9.95 and up.
Barbacoa Taco and Arroz con Huevo Taco, traditional varieties from Tehuitzingo, Mexico.
Authentic Flavors of Mexico in Times Square
7Membership available 7NEW LOCATIONS Products available at most Foodtown and Food Bazaars in the city
7
&12&0 2 )*-#2.5- #-)#22#-
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
F
ancy an authentic taco? Head to the eatery whose owners hail from Tehuitzingo—the Mexican town renowned for the tasty little zingers. Right by the Port Authority, Taqueria Tehuitzingo is a small, family-run taqueria that dishes up unpretentious, homey, and delicious food. Tacos are what the southeastern town of Tehuitzingo is known for. Taco vendors once lined the roads, so truckers or passersby could grab a quick bite to fill their stomachs, and continue on their way. With time, Tehuitzingo became famous for its excellent tacos. Here at Taqueria Tehuitzingo, the tacos come in many variations, from your familiar Pork Taco (carnitas) and Beef Taco (bistec), to traditional varieties from Tehuitzingo like the Arroz con Huevo Taco (rice with egg) and the Goat Meat Taco (barbacoa). Unlike those served in many conventional taco places, the meaty flavor in these tacos is not drowned out by the accoutrements ($3–$3.50 per taco). Tortas (Mexican sandwiches) are another staple of Mexican cuisine. The Breaded Chicken Torta ($7.75) features a thin disc of meat topped with pickled jalapeùos, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, mayo, avocado, and beans on hefty, chewy Portuguese bread. The jalapeùos tickle the tongue, adding an extra zing to the tasty combination of ingredients. You can also order the sandwich with ham or breaded steak. When talking about Mexican food, one cannot leave out mole. Moles are deep-flavored sauces made from a plethora of spices, chilies, and some Mexican chocolate to sweeten it up
Taqueria Tehuitzingo
578 Ninth Ave. (between 41st & 42nd streets) 646-707-3916 tehuitzingo.net Hours Daily 11 a.m.–11 p.m.
Beef steak tacos.
a little. Taqueria Tehuitzingo’s Pollo en Mole Poblano (chicken in poblano mole, $12) has a tangy edge that opens up your palate, while juicy pieces of chicken thigh and leg meat prove to be the perfect savory accompaniment (not on the menu every day; diners should call in advance to check availability). For an electrifying kick to the taste buds, try the Chiles Rellenos ($12): roasted poblano pepper stued with cheese, then dipped in batter and deep-fried (also check for availability). The pepper is bathed in an aromatic tomato sauce blended with onions, garlic, and bay leaves. The heat hits you with its intensity, firing up your body as you eat. Each bite delivers a spicy sting that will tempt you to keep eating. You’ll want to scoop up the remaining sauce with the tortillas that come with the dish. No matter the time of year, Mexicans enjoy having Pozole ($10), a warm broth that soothes with the pure essence of its ingredients. Made from boiling white hominy kernels and pork shoulder meat, the soup combines the sweetness of the hominy with porky goodness. Pozole traditionally comes with an addictively crunchy tostada smeared with beans, and topped with plenty of lettuce, sour cream, and cheese (only available on the weekends). To complete the meal, one cannot leave out the famous Mexican drinks, like the creamy, cinnamon-spiced Horchata; the refreshing Tamarindo (tamarind-flavored punch); the tart Jamaica (hibiscus punch); and Jarritos, fizzy Mexican sodas ($2.50 to $4.50).
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best.
Pozole, a soothing soup of white hominy kernels and pork shoulder.
The Breaded Chicken Torta, with zesty jalapeĂąos.
*
Chiles Rellenos, bathed in an aromatic tomato sauce.
AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
Classic Mexican drinks (L–R) Jamaica, Horchata, and Tamarindo.
D9
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
thai
2016 James Beard Award Nominees Announced By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Nominees for the James Beard Foundation awards were announced on March 15 at the Presidio Officers’ Club in San Francisco. The James Beard Foundation Book, Broadcast & Journalism Awards will be given out on April 26 at Pier 60 at Chelsea Piers in Manhattan. Winners in the chef, restaurant, and design categories will be announced on May 2 at the Lyric Opera of Chicago. Tickets to both events are available at jamesbeard.org/awards/tickets The James Beard Awards were established in 1990 and honor culinary professionals for excellence in their fields.
2016 JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION RESTAURANT AND CHEF AWARDS Best New Restaurant A restaurant opened in the calendar year before the award will be given that already displays excellence in food, beverage, and service, and that is likely to make a significant impact in years to come. Death & Taxes, Raleigh, North Carolina Launderette, Austin Liholiho Yacht Club, San Francisco Shaya, New Orleans Staplehouse, Atlanta Wildair, New York City Outstanding Baker A chef or baker who prepares breads, pastries, or desserts in a retail bakery, and who serves as a national standard-bearer of excellence. Must have been a baker or pastry chef for at least five years. Joanne Chang, Flour Bakery + Café, Boston Mark Furstenberg, Bread Furst, Washington, D.C. Zachary Golper, Bien Cuit, Brooklyn Belinda Leong and Michel Suas, B. Patisserie, San Francisco William Werner, Craftsman and Wolves, San Francisco Outstanding Bar Program A restaurant or bar that demonstrates excellence in cocktail, spirits, and/or beer service. Arnaud’s French 75 Bar, New Orleans Bar Agricole, San Francisco Clyde Common, Portland, Oregon Cure, New Orleans Maison Premiere, Brooklyn Outstanding Chef A working chef in America whose career has set national industry standards and who has served as an inspiration to other food professionals. Eligible candidates must have been working as a chef for the past five years. Sean Brock, Husk, Nashville Suzanne Goin, Lucques, Los Angeles Donald Link, Herbsaint, New Orleans Michael Solomonov, Zahav, Philadelphia Michael Tusk, Quince, San Francisco Outstanding Pastry Chef A chef or baker who prepares desserts, pastries, or breads in a restaurant, and who serves as a national standard bearer of excellence. Must have been a pastry chef or baker for the past five years. Meg Galus, Boka, Chicago Maura Kilpatrick, Oleana, Cambridge, MA Dolester Miles, Highlands Bar & Grill, Birmingham, AL Dahlia Narvaez, Osteria Mozza, Los Angeles Ghaya Oliveira, Daniel, New York City Jennifer Yee, Lafayette, New York City Outstanding Restaurant A restaurant in the United States that serves as a national standard-bearer of consistent quality and excellence in food, atmosphere, and service. Eligible restaurants must have been in operation 10 or more consecutive years. Alinea, Chicago Frasca Food & Wine, Boulder, Colorado Highlands Bar and Grill, Birmingham, Alabama Momofuku Noodle Bar, New York City The Spotted Pig, New York City Outstanding Restaurateur A working restaurateur who sets high national standards in restaurant operations and entrepreneurship. Candidates must have been in the restaurant business for at least 10 years. Candidates must not have been nominated for a James Beard Foundation chef award in the past five years. Kevin Boehm and Rob Katz, Boka Restaurant Group, Chicago (Boka, Girl & the Goat, Momotaro, Swift & Sons, and others)
the modern experience
Ken Friedman, New York City (The Spotted Pig, The Breslin, Tosca Café) Michael Mina, Mina Restaurants, San Francisco (Michael Mina, Bourbon Steak, RN74, and others) Cindy Pawlcyn, Napa, California (Mustards Grill, Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen, Cindy’s Waterfront at the Monterey Bay Aquarium) Stephen Starr, Starr Restaurants, Philadelphia (Serpico, The Dandelion, Talula’s Garden, and others) Outstanding Service A restaurant in operation five or more years that demonstrates high standards of hospitality and service. Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocantico Hills, New York Eleven Madison Park, New York City North Pond, Chicago Quince, San Francisco Topolobampo, Chicago Outstanding Wine Program A restaurant in operation five or more years that serves as a standard bearer for excellence in wine service through a well-presented wine list, knowledgeable staff, and efforts to educate customers about wine. Bern’s Steakhouse, Tampa, Florida Canlis, Seattle Commander’s Palace, New Orleans FIG, Charleston, South Carolina Sepia, Chicago Outstanding Wine, Beer, or Spirits Professional A beer, wine, or spirits professional who has made a significant national impact on the restaurant industry. Sam Calagione, Dogfish Head Craft Brewery, Milton, Delaware Ron Cooper, Del Maguey Single Village Mezcal, Ranchos de Taos, New Mexico Miljenko Grgich, Grgich Hills Estate, Rutherford, California Rob Tod, Allagash Brewing Company, Portland, Maine Harlen Wheatley, Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort, Kentucky
Happy Hour Monday & Tuesday All day, from 12pm–10:45pm Wednesday–Sunday: 12pm–8pm Happy hour specials include our house drinks, martinis, margaritas, beer, and wine for $5. Our martini and margarita flavors include lychee, peach, strawberry, apple, orange, and pineapple. And of course we always have dirty martinis.
v{iv} Bar & Restaurant
HELL’S KITCHEN 717 9th Ave. (btwn 48th-49th St.) 212-581-5999 MIDTOWN EAST 38 E. 34th (btwn Lex & 3rd) 212-213-3317 Follow us @vivthainyc
Like us v{iv} Bar and Restaurant
Visit us at vivthainyc.com
Rising Star Chef of the Year A chef aged 30 or younger who displays an impressive talent and who is likely to make a significant impact on the industry in years to come. Alex Bois, High Street on Market, Philadelphia Angela Dimayuga, Mission Chinese Food, New York City Grae Nonas, Olamaie, Austin Matt Rudofker, Momofuku Ssäm Bar, New York City Daniela Soto-Innes, Cosme, New York City Jenner Tomaska, Next, Chicago Best Chefs Chefs who have set new or consistent standards of excellence in their respective regions. Eligible candidates may be from any kind of dining establishment and must have been working as a chef for at least five years, with the three most recent years spent in the region. Best Chef: New York City (Five Boroughs) Marco Canora, Hearth Mario Carbone and Rich Torrisi, Carbone Anita Lo, Annisa Jonathan Waxman, Barbuto Jody Williams, Buvette 2016 James Beard Foundation America’s Classics Al Ameer Restaurant, Dearborn, Michigan Owners: Khalil Ammar and Zaki Hashem Brooks’ House of BBQ, Oneonta, New York Owners: Beth and Ryan Brooks Bully’s Restaurant, Jackson, Mississippi Owners: Tyrone Bully and Greta Brown Bully Matt’s Place Drive-In, Butte, Montana Owners: Robin and Brad Cockhill Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante, Chimayo, New Mexico Owner: Florence Jaramillo 2016 James Beard Foundation Humanitarian of the Year Father Greg Boyle, Homeboy Industries, Los Angeles 2016 James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award Leah Chase, Dooky Chase’s Restaurant, New Orleans For the full list of nominees, visit EpochTaste.com
We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills” approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
D10
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com
Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts
57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN
Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Asian Fusion Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.
15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s Chinese Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS
403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com
Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings
Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
For the Best Easter Eggs, You Need This Simple Hollandaise By Sara Moulton When the subject is Easter eggs, most folks are usually talking about the gaily painted specimens in a basket. Me, I think of holiday brunch, and in particular of eggs Benedict. I think of the rich and indulgent dish of Canadian bacon, sautéed spinach, and poached eggs enthroned on an English muffin, the whole kit and caboodle drenched in hollandaise sauce. Making this winner, however, is no snap. Not only must you time the cooking of the separate ingredients just right, but whipping up the hollandaise—that classic French butter sauce— can be challenging. Happily, I’ve solved the first problem by rethinking the components so that they can be prepared in advance, then combined and baked together. This required making a few subtle substitutions. I traded the Canadian bacon for a thin slice of ham, which does double duty as a cup to hold the rest of the ingredients. Likewise, I swapped out the English muffin for croutons, which provide some welcome crunch. Finally, there’s now no need to poach the egg (a scary undertaking all by itself). Instead, it bakes right in the ham cup. What about that fearsome old hollandaise sauce? In truth, it’s never been a terribly big deal as long as you take your time and pay attention. Over the years I’ve made it every which way, with chunks of whole butter or melted butter or clarified butter, using a double boiler or a saucepan directly over low heat or a blender. But the method laid out in this recipe is my favorite. The key to making a hollandaise is cooking the eggs just enough so that they thicken (starting around 145 F), but not so much that they
curdle (between 165 F and 170 F). The best way to control this process is to put the eggs in a metal bowl set over—but not touching— some barely simmering water and cook them slowly. The lemon juice helps to keep the yolks from curdling, but you’ll also want to keep track of how hot the egg mixture is becoming by sticking your immaculately clean finger into the bowl every couple of minutes. When the egg mixture is quite warm, it’s time to add the butter. We’re using whole chunks of butter here for a couple reasons. First, whole butter is roughly 15 percent water, and that water helps to keep the sauce from splitting. Second, using whole butter results in a lighter and fluffier finished product than a sauce made with melted or clarified butter. Still, to keep the sauce from splitting, be careful to add the butter just a bit at a time. What to do if that pesky sauce splits anyway? Dump the mixture into a measuring cup, wash out the bowl, drop in a tablespoon or two of hot water, then slowly add the split sauce to the water, whisking as you go, and watch with triumph as your sauce re-emulsifies. As noted, this recipe—unlike the classic method—does not require you to pull all of the cooked ingredients out of a hat at the moment of assembly. You can sauté the spinach and bake the croutons the day before your brunch. Then, on the morning of the appointed day, you can make the Hollandaise up to an hour ahead of time and store it in a wide-mouthed thermos that’s been preheated with boiling water. Last step? Add the ingredients to the ham cups. Then just pop those cups into the oven 20 minutes before it’s time to sit down. From The Associated Press
RECIPE HOLLANDAISE Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Makes: 1 1/2 cups • 4 large egg yolks • 1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • 1 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature and cut into tablespoons • Pinch cayenne • Ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
In a medium metal bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice, the salt and 1 tablespoon water until the mixture is light and fluffy. Set the bowl over a pot of barely simmering water and whisk constantly until the egg mixture is lemon colored, thick and almost hot to the touch. (If the bowl gets too hot at any time, simply lift the bowl off the pot and whisk the egg mixture off the heat.) Immediately drop in 1 chunk of butter and whisk until it is almost completely absorbed. Add another tablespoon and whisk again until it is almost absorbed, then repeat again. Once the third piece of butter is nearly absorbed, start adding 2 butter chunks at a time, repeating the process until all of the butter has been added to the sauce. If at any time the sauce starts to get very thick, or look oily, add a tablespoon of water and then proceed adding the rest of the butter. Taste the sauce, then add the cayenne, salt and pepper and additional lemon juice to taste. Serve right away or transfer to a wide mouth thermos to keep warm.
D11
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
An Easy-to-Make Cake for When Life Isn’t Quite So Easy By Katie Workman Sometimes simple is just what the doctor ordered. And sometimes cake is just what the doctor ordered. And because we all know that we should be careful about mixing prescriptions, you should keep this simple cake recipe on hand for just those occasions. Believe me, I love a good thick streusel topping and I love cakes that say “Look at me!” But sometimes I just need to mindlessly throw together a cake that will get itself into the oven, and fast. Also, sometimes we need a cake that can function
as a breakfast or brunch offering without too much explanation (chocolate cake requires a lot of justification before noon), or a midday snack, but can also hold up as a dessert offering. You may also have some holiday houseguests, and you may need a few make-ahead things to have on hand when people would like “just a little something sweet.” This is that something, homemade and lovely perched on your counter for guests to help themselves to a sliver of. Or two.
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
Sour cream makes this all-occasion cake extra-moist.
From The Associated Press
RECIPE
All the flavors of Asia, under one roof
SOUR CREAM CINNAMON COFFEE CAKE Prep & Baking Time: 1 hour (10 minutes active) Serves: 10 For the Cake • 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus extra for the pan • 2 cups all purpose-flour, plus extra for the pan • 1 cup granulated sugar • 2 large eggs • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract • 1 cup sour cream • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder • 1/2 teaspoon baking soda • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt For the Glaze • 2/3 cup powdered sugar • 1 tablespoon milk • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 350 F. Use a bit of butter to liberally coat the inside of a 9- or 10-inch Bundt pan. Sprinkle a bit of flour in the pan and turn to coat evenly, then tip out and discard any excess. In a large bowl, use an electric mixer to beat together the 1 cup of butter and the sugar. Beat in the eggs one at a time,
Arbor Bistro • 226 W. Houston St. (btw. Varick & Bedford) 212-255-7888 • arborbistronyc.com then beat in the vanilla and sour cream. Set aside.
We Deliver
In a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 cups of flour, the baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, and salt. Stir the dry mixture into the butter mixture just until combined. Scrape into the prepared pan and spread so the top is even. Bake for 45 minutes, or until a wooden skewer inserted at the center of the cake comes out clean. Let cool for 10 minutes in the pan on a wire rack, then flip the cake out of the pan and let cool completely on the rack. While the cake is cooling, make the glaze. In a small bowl, stir together the powdered sugar, milk, and vanilla until smooth. When the cake is cool, transfer to a serving platter and use a teaspoon to drizzle the icing back and forth in a pretty zig zag pattern across the top of the cake.
( Ramen Okonomiyaki ( Obento-box ( Japanese sweets Obanyaki (
(subject to availability)
Winter Special
The Okonomiyaki
We are the only restaurant in the city that delivers Ramen to you!
MOCU-MOCU
Our original “Wafu Dashi”, and MOCU’s original blend of 746 Tenth Ave. (between 50th and 51st Streets) Okonomi-yaki sauce. 212-765-0197 Mocu-Mocu.com
CASUAL DINING CAFÉ & SHOP
Embracing the Baked Dinner as Your Weeknight Meal Solution By Melissa d’Arabian People often ask me what my most-used kitchen tool is (a high-speed blender). But if you were to ask my mom that same question 30 years ago, I am sure she would have answered her Pyrex baking dish. When I was growing up, probably 75 percent of my meals were made in that thing. Baked fish. Baked chicken. Baked pasta. Baked rice casserole. Baked dinner figured big in my childhood. As I got older and moved into my own apartment, I wondered why my mom didn’t explore other techniques a little more. She could have been searing that fish! And why not sauté that chicken for some delicious crusty browning that results in so much flavor? Now that I’m a mom, I understand the appeal of the litany of baked dishes my mom had on her (admittedly limited) menu. Baked stuff is easy! And as a mom of four busy girls, I need something easy to make on a Tuesday night, because between dance class and lacrosse practice, I only
ALL NATURAL ORGANIC YOUNG CHICKEN BROTH NO MSG•EVERYTHING HOMEMADE Hinata’s Special
Yuzu Shio Soba
100% VEGAN RAMEN
have a short window during which to make dinner happen. And since the healthiest dinners are the ones we make ourselves, baked chicken is on frequent repeat in my family meal repertoire. But I’ve learned a few lessons during the past 40 years, improving significantly upon Mom’s version. First, I use dark meat chicken with the bone-in. This significantly widens the window of cooking time forgiveness, so if someone is running late, dinner is still juicy. Plus, dark meat chicken has more flavor, and the little extra fat means it’s more filling. Second, I go heavy with the aromatics—herbs, onion, and garlic almost can’t be overused in baked chicken. Upgrading from white wine to vermouth is also a great flavor-booster. Lastly, I start the chicken with just enough of a sauté to get a tasty, golden crust. But if you really can’t make that happen, don’t be shy about just loading up that glass baking dish and popping it into the oven.
$14.50 Spring Special until end of May
Also Available
Mention EPOCH and Get One FREE Topping
&
Healthy Natural
OPEN 7 Days M-F 11:30am-11:30pm Sat 12:00pm-11:30pm Sun 4:00pm-11:30pm
HINATA RAMEN
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) / 212.355.2974
From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH
RECIPE
Sevens’ Mixed Grill
A Turkish Feast
BEST BAKED WEEKNIGHT CHICKEN
you’ll always remember
Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 15 minutes Serves: 4 • • • • • • • •
• Authentic Mediterranean Turkish cuisine • Delicious Specialty Kebabs & Pides • Zucchini Pancakes • Decadent Homemade Specialties and Desserts • Catering Available
8 bone-in chicken thighs, skin removed Kosher salt and ground black pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil, divided 2 teaspoons herbes de Provence (or dried thyme and oregano mixed) 20 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly smashed 3 shallots, thinly sliced 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/4 cup dry vermouth
15% OFF with this ad*
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 350 F. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. In a large, Dutch oven over medium-high, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Working in batches, briefly brown the chicken thighs on both sides, 6 to 7 minutes, transferring them to a plate as you work. In a small bowl, toss together the herbes de Provence, garlic, shallots and remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add a little salt and pepper.
Once all the chicken has browned, return it to the pot off the heat. Arrange the chicken in a single, but tight layer. Spoon the shallot and garlic mixture around the chicken. Pour the lemon juice and vermouth evenly around the chicken. Cover the pot and bake for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for another 15 to 25 minutes, or until the chicken reaches 175 F.
4 1/2 star rating on Trip Advisor & 4 star rating on Open Table! MEDITERRANEAN TURKISH GRILL
158 West 72nd St. NY • (212) 724-4700
www.seventurkishgrillnyc.com *valid for dinner 5 pm - 11 pm
D12
@EpochTaste
March 18–24, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
The Longevity barbecue set. BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
The Happiness barbecue set.
The Love barbecue set, with marbled meat presented in the shape of flowers.
Longevity, Happiness, and Love
at miss KOREA
BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
Confucian tradition in Korea names five blessings of a well-lived life: longevity, wealth, good health, virtue, and a natural death.
10 W. 32nd St. misskoreabbq.com
Ju mul luk is is a marinated version of boneless short rib that melts in your mouth with its richness.
miss KOREA JIN The First 212-594-4963
Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week
miss KOREA SUN The Second 212-736-3232
Sunday–Wednesday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Thursday–Saturday 11 a.m.–midnight
miss KOREA MEE The Third 212-594-7766
Deliciously Sponsored
Sunday–Wednesday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Thursday–Saturday 11 a.m.–midnight
MUNANDME/ISTOCK (ALL TULIPS)
This spring, miss KOREA’s owner, Sophia Lee, wants to wish her patrons good fortune for the new season, so she adapted the five blessings into her new menu. The three new combination meal sets—Longevity, Happiness, and Love—feature different marinated and unmarinated meats—so you can try all the glorious types of Korean barbecued meats in one go. In the Longevity Set ($74.95), you can sample unmarinated meats, perhaps a healthier option that will help you reach a long life. Beef tongue is sliced paper thin, with a reliable chew. To savor the meaty essence, eat it without any accoutrements. But if you prefer a little more spice, dip the meat in the anchovy sauce and sliced scallions that typically accompany a Korean barbecue meal. The set also comes with brisket, gleaming with fatty goodness; thick chunks of Berkshire pork belly, best eaten wrapped in lettuce with “ssam jang” (a spicy bean paste); and buttery beef short ribs. The boneless ribs are known as “kkotsal” in Korean, or flower ribs, due to the marbling on the meat resembling a flower. The Happiness Set ($79.95) gives joy to your tongue with marinated meats, each imparted with varying degrees of sweetness and umami from the different marinades. And there are various combinations of soy sauce, fruits, and garlic. The spicy pork belly is slathered with an additional layer of red pepper paste (mixed with a little bean paste), lending a touch of heat. Rib-eye “bulgogi” (marinated beef) is loaded with the taste of moreish onions, while the chicken is incredibly tender and juicy. Finally,
miss KOREA BBQ
“kalbi,” the Korean barbecue staple of bone-in short ribs, is pleasantly sweet. If you want it all, get the Love Set ($99.95) with both marinated and unmarinated meats. The highlight is the “ju mul luk,” a marinated version of boneless short rib that melts in your mouth with its richness, enhanced by just a tad of flavor in the soy-sauce-based marinade. This is also the owner’s favorite cut, so take her word that it’s worth having. The sets are for parties of two, and come with a Korean stew as well. You can choose between a spicy, pungent kimchi “jigae” (stew) with chunks of pork belly cooked to the point of falling apart; a “soondubu jigae” with soft tofu and seafood in a clean, comforting beef-based broth; and “doenjang jigae,” an earthy stew seasoned with bean paste.
Owner Sophia Lee.
BE
NJ
AM
I
H NC
AS
T EE
N /E P O C
H TI M E S
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
A spicy version of the seafood soondubu jigae, or soft tofu stew.
The third level of miss KOREA evokes a chic, contemporary vibe.