Epoch Taste 3-3-2017 by Epoch Taste

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

D1 March 3–9, 2017

Gone

Sailing on D6

www.EpochTaste.com

A seafood charcuterie board at Halifax in Hoboken, N.J., includes: (clockwise from top left) cured and smoked salmon, smoked pollock rillettes, coldsmoked mussels, and smoked rainbow trout.

From barbecue to cured seafood, exploring the ancient tradition of hot-smoking By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

ince our ancestors started cooking with fire, hotsmoking food has been a tried and true tradition. Cookbook author and host of PBS television show “Project Smoke” Steven Raichlen has a theory about how the idea first struck. “What I imagine is that whoever sat down with a wood fire and smoke, probably got stung by mosquitoes and bothered by flies and left,” he said in a phone interview. “So people took to hanging meat on sticks down by the end of the fire where they would get smoke, and that was found to retard spoilage.”

Chemical compounds released during the smoking process kill bacteria, while smoke lends unique flavors and transforms the texture of the food. What began as a means of preservation developed over time into rich culinary traditions, with a complex set of techniques involving different cooking temperatures, types of smoking equipment and wood (or other plant fuels such as hay or peat). Even varying sizes of wood segments produce different amounts and flavors of smoke.

See Smoke on D2

Salmon gets smoked in a Bradley electric smoker at Halifax.

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PHOTOS COURTESY OF PIG BLEECKER

(Left) Pig Bleecker’s tomahawk chop with smoked beef rib. (Top right) Smoked and grilled pork chop with peachhabanero jam. (Above right) Lasagna with smoked duck ragu, béchamel, “Grandma’s gravy,” and Parmesan.

Smoke continued from D1 A Universal Practice Hot-smoking is practically universal to every culture. Italy has smoked cheeses, Germany has its smoked sausages. And did you know traditional scotch is made from barley that has been smoked over peat? In America, a delicious range of barbecue styles emerged out of the local geography and history. In the Carolinas, hogs were introduced by Spanish colonists and eventually became a staple in the cuisine. Hickory wood, native to the landscape, was the fuel of choice for smoking the pigs, Raichlen explained. Meanwhile in

What began as a means of preservation developed over time into rich culinary traditions.

冬のメニュー

WINTER PLATES AT DONGURI A sampling of our winter menu

Amuse Simmered Seasonal Vegetables Appetizer Assortment of Five Kinds of Appetizers Soup Traditional Clear Soup of Snapper and Turnip Sashimi Chef’s Selection of Sashimi Grilled Grilled Pompano with Yuzu Miso O Shinogi Snow Crab with Tosa Vinegar Jelly Main Miyazaki Wagyu Strip Loin Noodles Tea-Flavored Buckwheat Noodles

Texas, where cattle-raising reigned, beef brisket became a common barbecue item—smoked with oak wood. The traditional “low and slow” style of American barbecue—cooked at the relatively low temperatures of 225 to 275 degrees Fahrenheit for hours on end—renders meat juicy and melt-in-your-mouth tender. At the newly opened Pig Bleecker restaurant in New York City, chef Matt Abdoo plays with barbecue-style, hot-smoked ingredients to assemble comfort food dishes. In a lasagna dish, for example, pieces of smoked confit duck are hidden among the layers of pasta. The duck sits in the smoker for four hours, becoming succulent and soft, without any of the gaminess duck meat tends to possess. In another dish, the main stars—steak and mashed potatoes—are accompanied by a smoked beef cheek marmalade: The beef is first smoked, then cooked in port wine, red wine, and veal stock. The liquid is reduced until it becomes thick and then poured over the cheek meat. And pork chop, often tough and firm, gets a complete makeover after smoking: It becomes improbably soft like pork belly, with a slight bounciness, breaking apart with ease under the knife. First rubbed in salt, pepper, and secret ingredients, then served with a peachhabanero jam, the smoked and grilled pork chop, with its tangy seasoning—coupled with its charred edges—conjures a hot day outdoors by the grill. Abdoo, who was previously chef de cuisine at Del Posto, fell in love with smoking foods after he began competing at barbecue competitions. In 2015, he opened Pig Beach in Brooklyn to explore different styles of smoking meat. Now, at Pig Bleecker, he smokes vegetables, cheese, and salt too, to enhance composed dishes with the magic of smoky heat. Smoking Seafood Aside from barbecue, in coastal fishing communities, curing and smoking seafood is a long-held tradition. Chef Seadon Shouse at

Dessert Japanese Pancake with Sweet Red Bean

Halifax in Hoboken, New Jersey, showcases some varieties of seafood charcuterie that are common in Halifax, Nova Scotia, where he is from. Wild Alaskan salmon (or Atlantic Sapphire salmon, sustainably raised in Denmark) is cured in maple syrup, brown sugar, and salt for two days, dried for a day, and then slowly hot-smoked. The salmon gains a firm, jerkylike texture, tasting of caramelized sweetness and light smoke. Shouse uses cherry wood, as fruit woods produce a softer smoke, he said. Maine and Massachusetts pollock, meanwhile, are turned into rillettes after a brine in salt and sugar, then dried, sprinkled with black peppercorns, and hot-smoked. The fish, having turned into fibrous bits in the smoker, is shredded and mixed with crème fraîche, lemon zest, and parsley, creating a light, citrusy fish salad. Sometimes, smoke brings out natural flavors in the seafood. After steaming mussels (Rhode Island, Maine) in white wine, garlic, onion, and thyme, Shouse cold-smokes the bivalves (under 100 degrees F), adding a layer of smoky flavor that heightens their clean sweetness, while removing flavors of ocean brine. Smoking at Home For busy cooks, some of Raichlen’s hotsmoking recipes can be prepared in shorter amounts of time. Raichlen’s recipe for Salmon Candy takes up only 30 minutes of active time, while the recipe for Smoked Shrimp Cocktail With Chipotle-Orange Cocktail Sauce, a fiery Mexican twist on the classic, gives you the option to go “low and slow” with a smoker, or highheat on a grill. If you’re an urban dweller with tight space, don’t despair. You can still smoke foods using a stovetop smoker that consists of a drip pan, food rack, and lid. Raichlen provides plenty of tips and pointers for smoking in his cookbook and on his websites, ProjectSmoke.org and BarbecueBible.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Halifax in Hoboken, N.J.

Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Chef Yamasaki

RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)

Chef’s Omakase Dinner $150 per guest Must book at least one day in advance

Chef Seadon Shouse grew up in Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada, where cured and smoked seafood is part of the local cuisine.

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com MATTHEW BENSON

RECIPE SMOKED SHRIMP COCKTAIL WITH CHIPOTLE-ORANGE COCKTAIL SAUCE Serves 4 as a starter Prep Time: 30 minutes Smoking Time: 30 to 60 minutes in a conventional smoker or 4 to 6 minutes on a grill Fuel: I like to smoke the shrimp with mesquite, but any hardwood will work. You’ll need enough for 1 hour of smoking. Gear: Medium-size bamboo skewers (8 to 10 inches) Shop: Use fresh local shrimp when possible: Key West pinks if you’re in Florida; spot prawns on the West Coast; Gulf shrimp in Louisiana; or Maine shrimp in New England. Size matters less than freshness.

• 3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro • 2 scallions, trimmed, white and green parts thinly sliced • 1 to 2 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • Coarse salt (sea or kosher) and freshly cracked black pepper • 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling the rack

DIRECTIONS Make the Cocktail Sauce: Place the ketchup, orange zest and juice, Worcestershire sauce, chipotles, adobo sauce, onion and chopped cilantro in a bowl and whisk to mix. Divide the cocktail sauce among four small bowls. Cover and refrigerate until serving. Place a cilantro sprig in the center of each just before serving.

Rinse the shrimp, drain, and blot dry. Place the shrimp, cilantro, scallions, hot red pepper flakes, cumin, and 1/2 teaspoon What Else: There are two options for each of salt and pepper in a large bowl and smoking: traditional low-and-slow toss to mix. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the smoking, which gives you great flavor oil, cover, and marinate for 15 minutes. but a slightly rubbery texture, Thread the shrimp onto bamboo and high-heat smoke-roasting skewers, 2 to a skewer. Leave on a grill, which gives you a 1/4 inch exposed skewer at little more sizzle and crust. the point end and the bottom Shrimp cocktail half of the skewer shrimp-free. Here’s a Mexican twist gets a fiery, Place the skewers on a lightly on conventional shrimp Mexican twist. oiled wire rack if smoking. cocktail, with smoke and

fire coming at you from all directions. First from the shrimp, which you season with hot red pepper flakes and cumin and smoke over smoldering mesquite. Then from a cocktail sauce that features the sweet, smoky flavors of fresh orange juice and chipotle chilies. Add chilies to your liking—one for mildly spicy shrimp, two for pyromaniacs. Beats the traditional cold boiled shrimp cocktail hollow.

For the Chipotle-Orange Cocktail Sauce • 1 cup ketchup • 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest • 1/4 cup fresh orange juice • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce • 1 or 2 canned chipotle chilies, minced, plus 2 teaspoons adobo sauce • 2 tablespoons finely diced white onion • 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro, plus 4 sprigs For the Shrimp • 1 1/2 pounds jumbo shrimp, peeled with tails intact, and deveined

Smoker Method: Set up your smoker following the manufacturer’s instructions and preheat to 225 F to 250 F. Add the wood as specified by the manufacturer. Place the rack with the shrimp in the smoker and smoke until bronzed with smoke and firm to the touch, 30 to 60 minutes, or as needed. Baste with the remaining 2 tablespoons of the oil after 20 minutes. Grill Method: Set up your grill for direct grilling and preheat to high (450 F). Toss the wood chunks or chips on the coals. Direct grill the shrimp, turning them over once, until sizzling and brown on the outside and cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Slide a folded strip of aluminum foil under the exposed parts of the skewers to keep them from burning. Baste with the remaining oil after you turn the shrimp. Serve the shrimp on the skewers with the Chipotle-Orange Cocktail Sauce for dipping. Reprinted from “Project Smoke” by Steven Raichlen. Workman Publishing. Copyright © 2016. Photographs by Matthew Benson.

Steven Raichlen, the ultimate expert on smoking food.

Raichlen’s “Project Smoke” guides you through all aspects of smoking.

RECIPE you find with kitchen tweezers.

SALMON CANDY

Using a sharp knife, slice the salmon widthwise into strips 1 inch wide and 4 to 5 inches long. Transfer the fish to a large heavy-duty resealable plastic bag and place the bag in an aluminum foil pan or baking dish to contain any leaks.

Serves 6 to 8 as a snack Makes: 1 1/2 pounds Prep Time: 30 minutes Brining Time: 8 hours Drying Time: 2 hours Smoking Time: 30 to 60 minutes Fuel: Alder—enough for 1 hour of smoking Gear: Kitchen tweezers or needle-nose pliers, to remove any fish bones, a large heavy-duty resealable plastic bag; a large aluminum foil pan; a wire rack; an instant-read thermometer Shop: As with all the smoked salmon in this book, ideally you’ll use fresh wild salmon, preferably king or coho from Alaska or Washington State. What Else: For an interesting variation, glaze the salmon with honey instead of maple syrup. Warm the honey slightly so you can brush it more easily on the fish. You’ll recognize it by its Old Master patina of wood smoke—usually alder. And by its sweet-salty flavor profile, the result of a salt-sugar cure and a generous basting of maple syrup or honey. The name says it all: salmon candy.

Combine the brown sugar, salt, and 1/2 cup of the maple syrup in a bowl. Add the water and stir until the sugar and salt dissolve. Pour this over the salmon and seal the bag. Cure in the refrigerator for 8 hours, turning the bag over several times to redistribute the brine. Drain the salmon in a colander, discarding the brine, and rinse the salmon well under cold running water. Blot dry with paper towels. Arrange the salmon flesh side up on an oiled wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet and let air-dry in the refrigerator until tacky, 2 hours. Set up your smoker following the manufacturer’s instructions and preheat to 225 F to 250 F. Add the wood as directed by the manufacturer. Place the salmon on its rack in the smoker and smoke until the outside is bronzed with smoke and the salmon feels firm, 30 to 60 minutes. Start brushing the salmon with the remaining 1/4 cup of maple syrup after 15 minutes, and brush several times until it’s cooked (about 140 F on an instant-read thermometer).

Tradition calls for cold- or cool-smoking the salmon candy, producing a chewy texture reminiscent of jerky. I opt for a higher temperature, which gives you crusty edges and a moist flaky texture. It’s damn near irresistible, even for people who don’t generally like smoked fish.

Transfer the salmon candy on its rack to a rimmed baking sheet to cool and brush one final time with maple syrup before serving. Serve at room temperature or cold.

Serve it with vodka or aquavit (it can stand up to the strongest spirits). Don’t be intimidated by the overall preparation time—the actual work takes about 30 minutes.

Variation To make traditional salmon candy that’s chewy like jerky, set up your smoker or grill following the manufacturer’s instructions and preheat to 175 F or as low as it will go. Add the wood as directed by the manufacturer. Place the salmon on its rack in the smoker and smoke until the outside is bronzed with smoke and the salmon feels firm, 4 hours, or as needed.

• 1 piece (1 1/2 pounds) fresh skinless salmon fillet (preferably a center cut) • 1 cup dark brown sugar or maple sugar • 1/4 cup coarse salt (sea or kosher) • 3/4 cup pure maple syrup (preferably dark amber or Grade B) • 1 quart water • Vegetable oil, for oiling the rack

DIRECTIONS Rinse the salmon under cold running water and blot dry with paper towels. Run your fingers over the flesh side of the fillet, feeling for the sharp ends of pin bones. Pull out any

In the unlikely event you have leftovers, store the salmon candy in a resealable plastic bag in the refrigerator; it will keep for at least 3 days.

Start brushing the salmon with the remaining 1/4 cup of maple syrup after 2 hours, and brush several times until it’s cooked. Transfer the salmon candy on its rack to a rimmed baking sheet to cool and brush one final time with maple syrup before serving. Serve at room temperature or cold. Reprinted from “Project Smoke” by Steven Raichlen. Workman Publishing. Copyright © 2016. Photographs by Matthew Benson.

ROGER PROULX

MATTHEW BENSON

WE’RE MORE THAN MEATS THE PLATE MIDTOWN 551 Fifth Avenue 212.972.3315

WORLD TRADE CENTER 136 Washington Street 212.608.0171

HACKENSACK One Riverside Square 201.487.1303

GREAT NECK 777 Northern Boulevard 516.498.2950

WHITE PLAINS 9 Maple Avenue 914.683.6101

MORTONS.COM

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com PHOTOS BY KARL MISCHLER

NY DRINKS NY GRAND TASTING

Tuesday, March 7 6 p.m.–8 p.m. Altman Building 135 W. 18th St. (between Sixth & Seventh avenues) Chelsea NYDrinksNY.com

This grand festival celebrates locally made wines, featuring more than 200 from over 20 wineries in the Finger Lakes, Long Island, Niagara Escarpment, Hudson River, and Lake Erie regions. New York cheeses, charcuterie, and other hors d’oeuvres from local artisans will be provided. $55 per person.

FARE PLATE

HISTORY OF ICED TREATS AT 92Y

This one-day event focusing on Irish food and drink will feature plenty of tasting booths, seasonal cocktails, and meet-andgreet opportunities with ambassadors of Irish food products. Among the offerings are Coole Swan Irish cream liqueur, Kerrygold cheeses, Flahavan oats, and more. $45 to $115 per person.

Coffee and Tea Festival Returns to Buzz Up New York City

Sunday, March 12 2 p.m.–8 p.m. Houston Hall 222 W. Houston St. (near Varick Street) Greenwich Village FarePlate.com

Saturday, March 4 8 p.m.—midnight NYC Health & Hospitals/Harlem 506 Lenox Ave. (at West 136th Street), Harlem HarlemHaberdashery.com

Saturday, March 18 & Sunday, March 19 Brooklyn Expo Center 72 Noble St. (between Franklin & West streets) Greenpoint, Brooklyn CoffeeAndTeaFestival.com

BLACK TRUFFLE DISHES AT LE COQ RICO It’s black truffle season in Vaucluse, France. Chef Antoine Westermann of Le Coq Rico has handpicked black truffles from the famous Richerenches market and incorporated them into a seasonal dessert and a special cocktail: black truffle ice cream with fresh Vaucluse black truffles and Oreo crumble ($15); and the Black Truffle Soul cocktail, with sparkling wine, fresh black truffle-infused vodka, and housemade black truffle syrup ($19).

CAFE MEDI LAUNCHES NEW MENU Mediterranean restaurant Café Medi is debuting a slate of new dishes, like Cucumber Tartare with avocado, coriander, and Thai basil; Burrata Agnolotti with Perigord truffle and beech mushrooms; Branzino Fillet with leek, Castelvetrano olives, and Tuscan kale; and Slow-Roasted Rabbit with cauliflower, fino sherry, and red dandelion. Guests can end the meal with Pistachio Mille Feuille or Goat’s Milk Cheesecake with rosemary shortbread and blackberries.

KEN GOODMAN

To benefit the Harlem Hospital Center, local boutique shop Harlem Haberdashery is hosting a masquerade ball. Harlem restaurants Row House, Harlem Shake, Lolo’s Seafood Shack, and Doc’s Cake Shop are among those providing food. The black tie event will honor those who contribute to the community. $150 per person.

SUNDAY SUPPER AT CHELSEA MARKET

Café Medi 107 Rivington St. (between Ludlow & Essex streets) Lower East Side CafeMediNYC.com

To benefit the James Beard Foundation, chefs from Chelsea Market restaurants will be partnering with guest chefs to deliver an epic feast. Among the chefs are Sarabeth Levine (Sarabeth’s), Abby De La Rosa (The Green Table), Daniel Rose (Le Coucou), Damon Wise (Sauvage, Maison Premiere), Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske (Contra, Wildair), and Cédric Vongerichten (Perry Street). $240 per person.

RACINES NY Chef Frederic Duca, who earned a Michelin star in Paris, now has a bar menu available for guests at his New York bistro, Racines NY. The dishes include chicken liver paté, pigs’ feet croquette with gribiche sauce; confit lamb burger—cooked in fat for about 12 hours in olive oil and seasoned with star anise, bay leaf, and thyme—served with homemade harissa (hot chili pepper paste) and preserved lemon.

There are the restaurants you go to, and

The Restaurant You Go Back to.

n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan recipes. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular longtime local guests, out-of-towners

and the many celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available, pre-fixe luncheon menu noon till 3 p.m. ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3 p.m. till 7 p.m. ($59).

Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant

236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.Patsys.com

SPECIALS AT LEFT BANK

Racines NY 94 Chambers St. (between Church Street & Broadway) Tribeca RacinesNY.com

The confit lamb burger at Racines.

Through Wednesday, March 15 Le Coq Rico 30 E. 20th St. (between Broadway & Park Avenue South) Flatiron LeCoqRicoNYC.com

Weekend Pick

NEW JERSEY WINE AND FOOD FESTIVAL Located at the Crystal Springs Resort about one and a half hours from New York City, the New Jersey Wine and Food Festival is a three-day celebration of local chefs and great wines. Chef Daniel Boulud will headline the festival as he cooks in the VIP room during the grand tasting event, judges a foie gras dish challenge, prepares a dinner paired with vintage wines, and more. Thirty chefs from the New York and New Jersey area will be participating, in addition to three chefs from the current season of Bravo TV’s “Top Chef” show— Katsuji Tanabe, Silvia Barban, and Casey Thompson—cooking for the Top Chefs and Top Wines Dinner. Saturday is filled with seminars on such topics as how to mix a party punch, how to make fresh pasta, and how to work with different cuts of prized 7X beef, a heritage breed raised in Colorado.

Sunday, March 26 5 p.m. Chelsea Market 75 Ninth Ave. (between West 15th & West 16th streets) Chelsea JamesBeard.org

MICHAEL TULIPAN

Through Tuesday, March 7 Speedy Romeo 376 Classon Ave. (near Greene Avenue) Clinton Hill, Brooklyn SpeedyRomeo.com

Italian-inspired Speedy Romeo in Brooklyn is partnering with chef Patrick Miller of Boerum Hill neighborhood restaurant Rucola to offer the Sloppy Giuseppe, a calzone stuffed with wood-grilled pork Bolognese and béchamel sauce, baked in a wood-burning oven with Provel cheese, and finished with chili oil, nutmeg, and grated Pecorino Romano cheese. Available for lunch, brunch, and dinner. $20.

Coffees and teas served at last year’s Coffee and Tea Festival.

op coffee and tea exhibitors from around the world—more than 75 of them—will be pouring samples at the Coffee and Tea Festival. They include Café Grumpy, Sunup Green Coffee, Birds and Beans, The Bromley Tea Company, Harney and Sons, Ippodo, and more. Throughout the two-day festival, seminars will be held on topics like decaf coffee, tea cocktails, Chemex brewing, nitro cold brew, and oolong tea cupping. Local food purveyors will provide savory and sweet bites. $10 to $35 per person.

Weekend Pick

Wednesday, March 15 7 p.m. 92Y 1395 Lexington Ave. (at East 92nd Street) Upper East Side 92Y.org

SLOPPY GIUSEPPE AT SPEEDY ROMEO

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

MASQUERADE BALL AT HARLEM HABERDASHERY

Food historian Francine Segan will trace the history of cool sweets, dating to Alexander the Great, Emperor Nero, and as far back as King Solomon. Guests will get to sample Lolly Galvanina’s handmade sorbetto-on-a-stick from Italy, as well as other treats. $45 per person.

Friday, March 31–Sunday, April 2 Crystal Springs Resort 1 Wild Turkey Way Hamburg, N.J. NJWineFoodFest.com

Weekend Pick

Greenwich Village bistro Left Bank is serving a special Sunday supper dish: the timpano. Baked in a cast-iron basin and sliced to order, this Italian-American dish is composed of layers of garganelli pasta, meatballs, pork sausage, spinach, broccoli rabe, prosciutto, mozzarella, hardboiled eggs, tomato sauce, and more. $25 per person. Parties of eight or more can order a whole timpano to share. On Monday nights through March 27, Left Bank will serve pommes aligot, a dish originating from Midi-Pyrénées in southern France, with whipped mashed potatoes and tomme de savoie, a mild cow’s cheese from the French Alps. The dish will be accompanied by a rotating meat component, like braised oxtail or lamb shank. $27 per person.

ASIA COLADNER

Sundays & Mondays Left Bank 117 Perry St. (at Greenwich Street) Greenwich Village LeftBankNewYork.com

Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC COURTESY OF THE WOOLY PUBLIC

Woolynesia cocktails.

The front room at The Wooly Public.

The Wooly Public Opens Inside Woolworth Building Adding to the existing concepts in the Woolworth Building—The Wooly Daily, a café and bakeshop, and The Wooly bar and private events venue—owners David Tobias and Eric Adolfsen are launching a full-service restaurant and cocktail bar named The Wooly Public. Diners will find a modern interpretation of neo-Gothic design, as well as subtle appearances by the Wooly mascot (a mammoth, what else?). The table tops in the front room sport designs of board games, and guests can get game pieces from the bar to play rounds of Scrabble or chess. Chef Jeff Srole, who was most recently sous chef at Maison Premiere, serves oldschool dishes with a twist, such as Peking Duck Tots, Confit Chicken with parsnips and charred broccoli rabe, and Pump-

The Meatball Shop Opens With Adjacent Bar, The Sidepiece The Meatball Shop has opened its seventh location, with an adjacent bar called The Sidepiece, located in Hell’s Kitchen. The bar can be accessed through The Meatball Shop or a separate street entrance. The beverage director is Rene Hidalgo, who previously worked at Gramercy Tavern and Milk & Honey.

Ikinari Brings ‘Super Thick’ Steaks to New York City Chef and restaurateur Kunio Ichinose opened the first Ikinari Steak in Tokyo back in 2013, with the idea of serving “super thick,” high-quality steaks in a quick and economical way. That means, in part, no sitting down; guests eat while standing at counters. Ikinari now has over 100 locations in Japan. It is so popular that a loyalty program, with a “beef mileage card,” tracks diners by the pounds of steak they’ve eaten and ranks them against other loyal customers.

From Rome to the Lower East Side, Here Comes Trapizzino Back in 2008, when Italian pizza master Stefano Callegari was looking for a new format to serve Roman secondi dishes— the course that comes after pasta in traditional meals—he invented the trapizzino. The stuffed sandwich pocket became the focus of its namesake eatery in Rome, which has seven locations in the Eternal City. Trapizzino has made the jump across the pond and is now open on the Lower East Side. Like the locations in Rome, it is counter service only. Trapizzini include Padellaccia di Maiale (heritage pork, white wine,

kin Ravioli, served with walnuts, winter greens, and pink peppercorns. The dinner menu also features a rotating selection of dishes from the first restaurant in the Woolworth Building, back in 1913. For the bar program, Eryn Reece, who worked at Death & Co. and Mayahuel, features lesser-known classic cocktails and contemporary cocktails. Open Monday through Friday for lunch and dinner, and Saturday for dinner.

The Wooly Public

9 Barclay St. (between Church Street & Broadway) Tribeca 212-571-2930 TheWoolyPublic.com

Steakhouse Veteran Opens Greenwich Steakhouse Victor Chavez, who was executive chef at Smith & Wollensky’s Midtown location for more than 35 years, was almost a year into his retirement when he was pulled in a new direction—opening his own restaurant. Greenwich Steakhouse is housed in an intimate, three-story West Village town house, with a main dining room that seats 40 and additional seats at the bar and lounge area. The menu features classic steaks and chops, a raw bar, and an extensive sea-

food selection. Signature dishes include the three-pound Prime Dry Age Porterhouse for Two with Bone Marrow Sauce ($119), Double Cut Roast Lamb Chops ($49), and the 14-ounce Roasted Veal Chop ($48). Produce and honey will come from the restaurant’s private farm in upstate New York when in season. Beverage director Zane Harris (Dutch Kills, Maison Premiere) changes the selection of seasonal cocktails every two-and-a-half months. Open daily for dinner.

Greenwich Steakhouse

62 Greenwich Ave. (near Perry Street) West Village 212-553-5000 GreenwichSteakhouse.com

At Unico, Anything Goes in a Tortilla What can’t you put in a tortilla? Nothing it seems, judging by the opening of Suvir Saran and Roni Mazumdar’s new Long Island City restaurant. Unico, located near LaGuardia Community College, serves tacos, enchiladas, and burritos with fillings inspired by cities close to Saran’s heart: Lima, with shrimp marinated in citrus, jicama-mango-cabbage slaw, and chili oil; and Incheon, with Korean-style marinated beef short ribs, spicy kimchi, gochujang, and salsa verde. A selection of Unico’s

tacos will also be served at the new taco bar at Saran and Mazumdar’s restaurant Tapestry, in Greenwich Village. Open weekdays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Unico

31-31 Thomson Ave. (between 31st & Van Dam streets) Long Island City, Queens 718-433-3888 Unico.nyc

The mascot is a mammoth.

COURTESY OF THE SIDEPIECE

The Chicken Pizza Meatball Parmesan dish.

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine The bar menu, crafted by chef-owner Daniel Holzman, features new dishes such as Meatball Fondue, mini chicken meatballs served on a silver platter with melted Alpine Swiss cheese. For dipping, the dish comes with Fuji apples, roasted broccoli, focaccia, Niman Ranch bacon strips, and mozzarella cubes.

COURTESY OF IKINARI

Ichinose has brought Ikinari to New York City, with its first location in the East Village. Guests can order their choice of ribeye, sirloin, or filet (all wet-aged for at least 40 days) sourced from Aurora Angus Beef in Illinois. There is a minimum weight order, but no maximum limit. Steaks are cooked over an open fire and served on a cast-iron platter along with the daily vegetable. A lunchtime set meal includes a 10.6-ounce chuck eye steak with salad, soup, and rice for $20.

COURTESY OF TRAPIZZINO

The Meatball Shop and The Sidepiece

• Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

798 Ninth Ave. (near West 53rd Street) Hell’s Kitchen 212-230-5860 TheMeatballShop.com

An outpost of Ikinari in Japan.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

Ikinari Steak

90 E. 10th St. (between Third & Fourth avenues) East Village 917-388-3546 IkinariSteakUSA.com

Trapizzino highlights one of Rome’s popular street foods.

Authentic Japanese GMO FREE

wild fennel pollen, sage), Zucca e Mandorle (pumpkin, almonds, Pecorino Romano cheese), and Coda alla Vaccinara (Piedmontese oxtail, celery, red wine). Many of the recipes come from consulting with local grandmothers in Italy. Trapizzino also features fried rice balls (called supplì), such as Aglio e Olio (garlic, olive oil, red chili) and Cacio e Pepe (Pecorino Romano, black pepper). Open Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to midnight.

Trapizzino

144 Orchard St. (near Rivington Street) Lower East Side 212-475-2555 TrapizzinoUSA.com

Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)

• Dessert

$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

2nd Location

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com

Passengers aboard the Victory Chimes while away the afternoon, as the Angelique windjammer sails in the distance.

Gone Windjammin’ Exploring the coast of Maine—wherever the wind takes you By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

A Captain Kip Files at the helm of the Victory Chimes.

Chef James Tompkins cooks on “The Beast,” a temperamental cast iron stove.

Morning excursions, here to North Haven Island, provide a chance to stretch one’s legs.

BOARD THE VICTORY CHIMES, Maine—The crew refused to eat lobster. It wasn’t so much mutiny as a surfeit of a good thing. No matter that the lobsters had been freshly caught that morning, steamed in seawater to a bright scarlet, and were now dripping with butter and juices, served with corn on the cob on the side. “They get a little tired of lobster,” says the chef, James Tompkins. That’s how you know you’re in Maine. Tompkins churns out hearty breakfasts, like pancakes with those little Maine blueberries that burst with flavor, and eggs Benedict with lobster; warming lunches like Thai red curry or beef barley soup; and sumptuous dinners of spice-encrusted prime rib, and more. He does it all in the galley (that’s a kitchen, for us landlubbers) of a tall ship that comes and goes through Penobscot Bay at the will of the wind. It’s to be expected that his cooking is also at the mercy of the elements to some extent. For 16 years, Tompkins cooked in Las Vegas, under the bright lights, with eight ovens, four stoves, and tons of room at his disposal. Here, he does it all in 100 square feet of space, cooking on a temperamental diesel-powered cast iron stove nicknamed “The Beast” that has no thermostat. The Beast has to be woken up every morning at 4:30 a.m., since it takes a full hour and a half for it to muster enough heat to cook anything. Tompkins takes advantage of the ship’s stability—relatively speaking—while it’s moored to poach eggs or bake a cake. Even so, a lopsided cake, thanks to the movement of the tides, isn’t unheard of. This is how cooking goes on the Victory Chimes, a 132-foot-long schooner and national historic landmark. It’s the only threemasted windjammer that has been sailing continuously for over a century. Look in your pocket: If you happen to have a Maine quarter, that’s the Victory Chimes on one side of it. Though the people of Maine voted to have the ship on the quarter, it almost didn’t happen. After being told it would be too difficult to engrave the image, the co-captains, Kip Files and Paul DeGaeta, found someone to do the engraving to show that it could indeed be done. With some political support, the Chimes made it back on; though, Files admits, there was a bit of rule-breaking. Normally, he says, whatever is featured on the quarter is not supposed to be privately owned. “The worst part of it is no matter how hard we tried, they wouldn’t let us put our web address on the back,” he says. The 800 phone number was also a no-go, he adds. To have a Maine windjammer make it on the state coin attests to how iconic it is, and to the role it played in history—ferrying lumber and goods up and down the East Coast in days past.

I forget about home. I’m in the moment. Nancy Anderson, passenger, Monterey, Calif.

The Windjammers People go “windjamming” from all walks of life and for all sorts of reasons. “For some of them, it’s the romance of the sea,” says Files. “Some of them are historians and want to sail on a vessel before it goes [out of commission]. Some are looking for a soft adventure, some to see coastal Maine.” It’s a completely different experience from being stuck bumper to bumper along Route 1, especially during the high season in the summer (“funneled through” is how first mate Robert Wheeler puts it). If you ask the captain, he’ll tell you the common denominator among most passengers: They say windjamming is the most relaxing vacation of their lives. The prospect of having no particular destination, simply going wherever the wind takes you—with the wisdom of the captain—is a complete change for those used to a rigorous schedule. That process, in which fidgetiness gives way to relaxation, takes about 48 hours, from Files’s observations. “I forget about home. I’m in the moment,” says one of the passengers, Nancy Anderson, of Monterey, California. Like a cat, she sometimes can be found on a mat on the deck, napping in the sunshine. This is her 18th cruise and her first on a windjammer. She does miss room service, she admits. The cabins are comfortable but simple, outfitted with bunk beds. While sailing, there is not much to do except watch the world go by, and admire the sails as they billow against the blue sky as you’re lulled by the gentle rocking of the waves. It’s easy to daydream. As the schooner sails, you’re almost always within sight of a coastline—Maine has more than 3,000 islands. And in this particular stretch of mid-coast Maine, it just so happens that because of a geological shake-up eons ago, the rocks here share their makeup with parts of Scotland and Ireland. With all the buffer that the islands provide, the sailing is smooth.

The Victory Chimes has been sailing every year for over a century.

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

SO FRESH! WE NOW DELIVER!

Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order

Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com

AUTHENTIC JAPANESE RAMEN Tasty dishes and amazing appetizers!

Tabata 3 Tabata 1 646-657-0257 212-465-2418 601 6th Ave, 557 8th Ave, New York, NY 10018 New York, NY 10011 Tabata 2 212-290-7691 540 9th Ave, New York, NY 10018 Tabatanewyork.com

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE

at el Pote

(Clockwise from top left) Fall colors; lunch alfresco; Files traces the day’s journey on a map of Penobscot Bay; the captain’s quarters aboard the Victory Chimes.

If you’re lucky, you can spot whales, porpoises, or seals. I see many bald eagles soaring overhead. The Victory Chimes isn’t the only windjammer to ply these waters. There are eight others in the fleet of the Maine Windjammer Association. One day, we are within view of the Angelique, a windjammer with spectacular orange-colored sails. Later that afternoon, we are moored not too far from the Angelique at Pulpit Harbor on North Haven Island. It has been maybe two days since we left Rockland Harbor, but seeing humans other than my fellow passengers and the crew holds a kind of fascination. They stare at us; we stare at them. There’s less deck space on the Angelique but the folks onboard are more daring, I reckon: I am bundled in fleece (and at night, a down jacket), but I see a woman in a swimsuit get in the water. Maybe she is from up north and this is balmy for her. Files says the water temperature is about 59 degrees Fahrenheit. She is a brave woman, I decide. Each season holds its charm for windjamming. In June, the days are long; summer is high season, perfect for beach-combing excursions. In September, the leaf colors start to change, and the days are cooler but clearer. At the end of every afternoon, Files gathers us around a map of Penobscot Bay and traces the day’s journey. Often we get to hear about history over dinner. He is filled with stories. We learn that Loyalists lived in this area at the time of the Revolutionary War. When they moved en masse to New Brunswick, Canada, they decided they would not let their belongings and houses fall to the Americans. They slid their houses down the hills and took them to New Brunswick, where you can still see houses that were built in Maine. At night, after dinner, the boat may be anchored but the conversations roam far and wide: of ill cats, wayward children, or faraway travels. The conversations last long into the night until, one by one, drowsy voices

give way to silence. And that’s when, in the darkness of the night, the stillness becomes eerie. Nothing but a lantern, a wine bottle (empty, perhaps), and the stars. A blanket of stars, gleaming and glittering by the thousands, a multicolored spectacle. It is startling. Where I live, in New York City, people hardly ever look up—you’re usually looking down to avoid refuse, or scanning from side to side, navigating a sea of people. Here, looking up, I realize for the first time in my life that stars aren’t white. How had I ever missed that? They were sparkling in shades of blue, purple, golden yellow, pink … When the morning comes, after breakfast, there is time for an excursion on land. In groups of two, we take a motorboat. The Angelique folks, being hardier types, row to shore. The “town” is so sleepy that I pass the general store unknowingly, still looking for “the town.” Still, it is nice to stretch one’s legs and look at the architecture of the houses. Shortly thereafter, it’s time to head back to the boat. When it’s time to hoist the sails, everyone is welcome to help. You can sit it out, but it’s a fun experience to work together in sync, and there is a great feeling of accomplishment in seeing those beautiful sails go up. And we’re off. I don’t know where we’re going to end up today, but you know what? That’s perfectly OK.

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana

T R AV E LS

Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

The Maine Windjammer Association’s fleet consists of nine windjammers, all privately owned; each carries between 16 and 40 guests. They sail the coast of Maine from late May to mid-October. The cost ranges from $585 to $1,808 per passenger for threeto six-night cruises. There are also themed cruises. The fleet goes through 10 tons of lobster per year. For more information, visit SailMaineCoast.com

Colin Hagendorf sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.

This trip was arranged by the Maine Windjammer Association. COMPASS ILLUSTRATION BY SHUTTERSTOCK

COURTESY OF THE MAINE WINDJAMMER ASSOCIATION

NY Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *

AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.

Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939

Awarded One of the 10

BEST PIZZAS IN NYC

Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station.

A blanket of stars lights up the Maine sky.

*Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.

@EpochTaste

March 3–9, 2017 www.EpochTaste.com

No Apologies for This Rich Gratin Made With Cream By Katie Workman

have a recipe for a potato gratin in my last cookbook “Dinner Solved!” that I firmly stand by. Here is another that I firmly stand by. And I plan to come up with more such recipes, because I am committed to reminding all of us why gratins are one of the best things that could happen to a potato, ever. This is a rich dish made with all cream, no milk or even half and half. I’m not apologizing, just explaining. In general, I like my indulgent dishes flat-out indulgent and my healthier foods in the form of salads or broiled fish. And I don’t have a problem with it all sharing a plate. This gratin, for instance, would be lovely next to a piece of roasted salmon with a peppery green salad alongside them. If you have a mandolin and the inclination to use it, please do, and you will get lovely, paperthin slices for an elegantly stratified gratin. If not, use the slicing blade in your food processor or a sharp knife; the slices will likely not be as thin, but that’s A-OK. Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” From The Associated Press

RECIPE THYME AND YUKON GOLD POTATO GRATIN Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 30 minutes Serves 10 to 12 • • • • • • • •

2 1/2 cups heavy whipping cream 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 teaspoon minced garlic 3 pounds medium Yukon Gold potatoes 1 1/2 cups shredded Gruyere cheese 2 tablespoons minced fresh thyme 1 teaspoon coarse or kosher salt 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 400 F. Butter a 9-inchby-13-inch baking dish. Combine the cream, butter, and garlic in a medium saucepan and bring to barely a simmer over medium high heat (do not allow to boil!). Remove from the heat. While the mixture is heating, peel the potatoes and slice them very thinly. Combine the cheese, thyme, salt, and pepper in a small bowl. Spread out half of the potatoes in the prepared baking dish. Sprinkle with half of the cheese mixture. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, and then the remaining cheese mixture.

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty

Pour the cream mixture over the potatoes, and press down on the potatoes to make sure they are mostly submerged in the liquid. Bake on a lower rack in the oven for about 60 to 65 minutes, or until the top is golden brown and the potatoes have absorbed most of the cream and are very tender; a knife should slide in easily.

South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

Let stand for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.

Recipe by Katie Workman LAURA AGRA VIA AP

A Warm Tuscan Kale Salad By Melissa d’Arabian News flash: Kale is still in. It’s still one of the nutritional highlights in my crisper drawer, and winter is its peak season, which means it’s most abundant, healthy, and cheap right now. Kale, part of the same family as broccoli, is loaded with vitamins (particularly A, C, and K) as well as smaller quantities of protein, fiber, and an impressive array of minerals. Plus, a cup of kale has under 35 calories, and a bunch of organic kale will set you back probably a little over a dollar right now. So, you’re going to need some updated kale recipes to get your through the winter. The two varieties most available in the supermarkets are curly kale and the darker flat-leaved version that is called Tuscan, lacinato, or dinosaur kale. Tuscan kale is thicker and heartier than the curly variety, so it holds up nicely in sautés. Both kale varieties are slightly bitter in flavor and do well to be “massaged” in acid, like lemon juice, which simultaneously tames the bit-

terness and gently breaks down the kale cells, making the leaf more tender. Today’s recipe is a sauté starring Tuscan kale. I like to think of it as a warm salad with leaves made slightly more tender by a lemon juice massage and a quick sauté. The main flavors are perfectly Mediterranean: anchovy paste and olives for saltiness (you can cut the quantities down if you are watching sodium), lemon zest for brightness, and garlic, which is a hearthealthy staple of the region. Small grape tomatoes add sweetness and acid, while a handful of black beans boost the already-fiber-rich kale, turning this into a side dish that means you really can serve way less meat for the main. Or, double the recipe and skip the meat altogether, which makes the dish extra healthy and wallet-friendly. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press

RECIPE

212-594-4963

10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours

MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP

TUSCAN KALE WITH OLIVES AND BEANS

DIRECTIONS

Prep & Cooking Time: 15 minutes Serves 4

Place in a medium bowl and pour lemon juice on top of the leaves. Use your hands to massage the lemon juice into the leaves, coating well. Let sit for a few minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.

• 1 bunch Tuscan or lacinato kale, removed from thick stem, about 12 large leaves • 2 tablespoons lemon juice, plus extra lemon juice for serving, if desired • 2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1 clove garlic, minced • 2 teaspoons anchovy paste • 2 teaspoons lemon zest • Pinch of red pepper flakes (optional) • 2 tablespoons chopped or sliced olives • 1/2 cup grape tomatoes, halved • 1/2 cup cooked white beans, drained and rinsed if canned • 2 tablespoons shredded Parmesan cheese, for serving • Lemon wedges, for serving (optional)

Thoroughly wash the kale leaves (no need to dry) and slice into strips.

Heat a large skillet over medium heat. In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, garlic, anchovy paste, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes. Scrape the oil mixture into the pan and sauté until fragrant, stirring with a wooden spoon, about 1 minute. Add the olives and kale leaves, stir, and then cover with a lid and allow to steam for 2 minutes. Uncover and stir in the tomato halves and beans. Turn off the heat and top with Parmesan cheese. Serve with lemon wedges for squeezing. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian