ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 April 15–21, 2016
C-CAP's Young Chefs on
D8
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This sandwich is called Fifty Shades of Bacon BLT. It has 50 strips of bacon. What'd you expect?
Pork Pilgrimage
Dear Readers, If you’re vegetarian, it’s probably best to skip D2 & D3.
A chef’s quest for perfect bacon and ‘cue By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
O
n New Year’s Day, Franco Robazetti got into his car in New Jersey and went on a barbecue pilgrimage. Two weeks, 17 states, and 3,652 miles later, he’d eaten his way through several southern states and back. Robazetti is executive chef at Zeppelin Hall Biergarten & Barbecue, a German-style beer garden in Jersey City that added “barbecue” to its name just two months ago, so the trip was all in the good name of research. And it’s no stretch to associate barbecue with German tradition. German immigrants found their way to Texas in the 1800s, where they settled and butchered cattle. “They worked with whatever they had—cheap cuts of brisket,” Robazetti said. “These guys started to do what they knew. They smoked the meat to preserve and tenderize it.”
See Zeppelin Hall on D2
Franco Robazetti, executive chef of Zeppelin Hall Biergarten & Barbecue in Jersey City.
Who said you couldn't air guitar on a bacon-wrapped tomahawk steak?
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Three pounds of Pat LaFrieda ribeye wrapped in two pounds of bacon.
Ten different kinds of bacon are used in the Bacon World Tour Monster sandwich.
Bacon, bacon everywhere.
Pork Pilgrimage Zeppelin Hall continued from D1
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
In Austin, Texas, the furthest west he traveled, Robazetti made a stop at the legendary Franklin Barbecue. He arrived three hours before opening time; 60 diners were already waiting in line. Robazetti brought renowned pitmaster Aaron Franklin the gift of a knife, as a sign of his respect. “[Franklin] showed me his smokers, and they cook 100 percent with wood. We talked about meat, how every piece of meat is different.” It’s not only the particular piece, but also the particular day’s humidity, the wood, and many other factors that make barbecue both a science and an art. When he finally bit into the legendary Franklin brisket, he found it “amazing, amazing, amazing.” Through his travels in the South, Robazetti went from pitmaster to pitmaster, asking about the barbecue secrets from each one. They were more than happy to share their knowledge with him. “People from down South are real nice,” he said. “It’s not a competition.” For Robazetti, who has cooked at highend steakhouses where dry-aged New York strips are ordered mediumrare, seared, and broiled at high temperatures, the slow-and-low cooking of cuts like brisket was completely different. “It opened up a whole universe. I love
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
sagaponacknyc.com
The Bacon Bacon BBQ Nachos: just enough to feed a small army.
Zeppelin Hall Biergarten & Barbecue
88 Liberty View Drive Jersey City, N.J. zeppelinhall.com Hours Monday–Friday 4 p.m.–2 a.m. Saturday & Sunday Noon–2 a.m. Children are welcome until 9 p.m.
More than 100 beers are on tap.
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
One of the Bacon Fest specials, paella with bacon.
Oysters Rockefeller with (you guessed it) bacon.
A hot dog bun filled with (you know what's coming) bacon. Long communal tables make it easy for groups to meet.
it,” he said. “I realized barbecue is a lifestyle. People that do barbecue—that’s what they do on the weekends, with trailers, smokers. It’s not even commercial, it’s just for fun. In South Carolina, some guy told me, ‘I don’t cook pork unless I see it walking around.’” At Zeppelin Hall, he’s brought back the techniques and dishes he learned from the regional styles, including Memphis-style whole smoked chicken wings ($9.95), which are impossibly crispy and incredibly moist at the same time. The secret? Don’t cut the wings. And there’s the (dry) rub: Robazetti’s own semi-secret mixture of spices that includes thyme. It’s good enough to want to lick it off your fingers. With its conversion to barbecue, the restaurant acquired a Southern Pride smoker, with post oak or cherry fed into it to create the gentle, steady “blue smoke” that infuses the meat with smoky flavor. Knowing it was essential to use excellent quality meats, Robazetti switched all his meat sourcing to Pat LaFrieda. That quality is seen in other regional specialties now featured on the menu: Nashvillestyle spare pork ribs ($11.95); giant beef ribs in the style of Lockhart, Texas, smoked for over 6 hours ($11.95); smoked Texas-style beef brisket ($13.95). There’s even Gulf shrimp “barbecue,” served with a spicy rub over jambalaya and a grilled Hurricane lemon. And so you can judge for yourself the merits of tomato-based South Carolina versus vinegarbased North Carolina barbecue if you order a plate of pulled pork, featuring both styles of meat ($12.95). Whereas down South you can get into fist fights over barbecue, Robazetti is easygoing. At Zeppelin Hall, there’s a sauce station where you can customize your platter, with add-ons like “Swine Wine,” a Texas-inspired barbecue sauce made with apple cider or “Carolina Gold,” a mustard-base sauce that’s nicely balanced—not too punchy. Home at the Beer Garden The gist at Zeppelin Hall is simple. Put an order at the kitchen window, perhaps grab a beer from the bar while you wait for your order (there are 144 draft beers on tap), and find a seat at one of the long communal tables. In warm weather, with its outdoor patio space and trees, Zeppelin comes alive. “If you don’t want to be in the sun, you come inside. This is like your house. Nobody bothers you,” Robazetti said. The atmosphere is low-key, and a look around reveals groups deep in conversation. Some groups even bring board games.
“You’re hungry, you go to the kitchen. Thirsty? Go to the bar. But you don’t have to wash the dishes,” Robazetti said. Aside from barbecue, there is German fare, but Robazetti and director of operations John Argento like to keep guests on their feet with new events every so often, like the Some Like It Hot Food Festival, The Whole Hog Festival, and the Chili Cook-Off. The most popular is BACONFEST (running through April 30), with rather outrageous perennial offerings such as the Fifty Shades of Bacon BLT, with a towering Jenga-like stack of 50 bacon strips ($14.95). It’s the ultimate dream BLT. A standout is the Bacon World Tour Monster, a sandwich filled with 10 different types of bacon—smoked pork belly, black forest bacon, Irish bacon, beef bacon, pancetta, speck turkey bacon, jowl bacon, Canadian bacon, and Tocineta Cascabel—each bringing its particular flavor to savor ($25.95). It’s served with a side of bacon fries. Then there’s the 3-pound Tomahawk Ribeye from Pat LaFrieda, wrapped in about 2 pounds of applewood-smoked bacon ($59). And it’s mighty tempting to order a giant bacon-wrapped pretzel practically the size of a hula hoop, even just for the bragging rights. It’s enough to make a bacon fan weep. Robazetti makes his own bacon, and when it comes to cooking it, he bakes it between two pans to create perfect, crispy, flat strips as addictive as potato chips. It’s dangerous territory—plus, free bacon strips are available at the bar during happy hour. This year, Robazetti is introducing seafood dishes with bacon. There are huge oysters Rockefeller with, of course, bacon ($11.95). And there’s paella, bright yellow and redolent of saffron, with shrimp, mussels—and all around the sides, like sentries, strips of bacon whose porkiness propels the paella way beyond comfort food status ($39.95). It easily serves two to three people without sides. Robazetti is half-Spanish and fondly remembers when his mother would cook paella at home on Saturdays. Zeppelin Hall often has live music on Fridays and Saturdays, with country music from bands like Brian Clayton and the Green River Band and Jake’s Country Band. For New Yorkers, it's a quick PATH train ride to Grove Street station and then a short walk—and the (short) out-of-state trip is well worth it for affordable prices, ample elbow room, and Robazetti’s dishes. Free parking is also available, and there is no cover charge.
Presents
‘
Sassicaia Wine Dinner ‘
Appetizer Tartar di Manzo, Truffle- Mustard and quail egg Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 2012 Pasta Pappardelle, oxtail ragu Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 2006 Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 2001 Main Course Bistecca Fiorentina Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 1997 (poured from double magnum) Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia, 1990 Dessert Poached Pear, caramel grappa sauce Tenuta San Guido, Sassicaia Grappa
Giuseppe Bruno, owner of Caravaggio is hosting a special wine dinner featuring Sassicaia wines from his private collection.
Wednesday, May 4, 7 p.m. RESERVATIONS 212-288-1004
23 E. 74th St., New York, N.Y. (Between Madison Ave. & 5th Ave.) CaravaggioRistorante.com
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
PASSOVER SPECIALS MICHAEL TULIPAN
stuff to eat and drink around town
Fung Tu’s Passover Gnocchi with Herring.
FUNG TU
Tuesday, April 19 Seatings: 6:30 p.m. & 8:30 p.m. Vic’s, 31 Great Jones St. vicsnewyork.com
BALABOOSTA
This popular Chinese-American restaurant is serving Passover specials fusing Eastern European Jewish, Italian, and Chinese cuisines. Dishes include Char Siu Brisket and Boiled Potato Gnocchi in a tomato-herring sauce with matchstick potatoes. Fung Tu also has a new tasting menu. The six-course menu includes Chilled Crab with black garlic,avocado, ponzu, and kaffir oil; Stir-Fried Squid with “morcilla” (Spanish blood sausage), snow peas, and housemade chili oil; and Fried Chicken with potato gratin and soy-hoisin butter. $65 per person.
TOM HOPKINS
Chef Einat Admony’s Middle Eastern restaurant Admony will celebrate the holiday with “Top Chef” winner Ilan Hall. Together, the chefs will create a five-course dinner with wine pairings for the second night Seder. The evening will also include live music and prize-giving. Sunday, April 24 6:30 p.m. Balaboosta 214 Mulberry St. balaboostanyc.com For reservations, email info@balaboostanyc.com
Friday, April 22—Saturday, April 30 Fung Tu 22 Orchard St. fungtu.com
Chef Michel Nischan.
WHOLESOME WAVE BENEFIT GALA The nonprofit Wholesome Wave. created by James Beard Award-winning chef Michel Nischan to improve access to healthy produce in underserved communities, is hosting its first benefit gala. The five-course dinner, honoring famed chef Jacques Pépin, will be prepared by chefs Nischan, Tyler Florence, Seamus Mullen, Carmen Quagliata, and Jacques Torres. Courses include Pork Cappellacci with charred ramps and Parmigiano-Reggiano; Seared Wild Salmon with wilted greens and ancient grains; and Chocolate Napoleon with fresh raspberry. $375 to $550 per person. Wednesday, April 20 6:30 p.m. The Yale Club of New York City 50 Vanderbilt Ave. wholesomewave.org/gala
Celebrate Passover at this SoHo restaurant, featuring dishes of the Sephardic Jewish tradition from countries like Morocco, Syria, and Iraq. The meal will be served family style, with selections like Fava Bean Falafel, Tunisian Charred Chicken Livers, and Lamb Tagine with prunes and saffron. $95 per person. Friday, April 22 & Saturday, April 23 Back Forty West 70 Prince St. backfortynyc.com
DIM SUM DINNER AT VIC’S Chefs from Cookshop, Rosie’s, Hundred Acres, and Vic’s—restaurants under owners Victoria Freeman and Marc Meyer—will team up for a dim-sum-style service, complete with mobile carts. Small plates will be served, like Labneh with nigella seeds, sea salt, and flatbread; Maine Crab with green chilies; and Monkfish Cheeks poached in brown butter. $68 per person.
BACK FORTY WEST
COURTESY OF QUEENS INTERNATIONAL NIGHT MARKET
QUEENS INTERNATIONAL NIGHT MARKET The outdoor market featuring street eats from international cuisines is returning. Vendors include Teinei Ya (pork belly and okonomiyaki), Hong Kong Street Food, Samosa Queens, Romanian-Hungarian Twister Cake, YourPanadas (empanadas), and Tastes by Tinka (Southern fried fish). All items capped at $5. Saturdays from April 23 6 p.m.–midnight New York Hall of Science Corona Park, Queens queensnightmarket.com
The crowd at the Queens International Night Market in Corona Park, Queens.
The ultimate event for spice lovers is returning. The weekend will be filled with eating contests: spicy tacos, guacamole, chicken wings, and pizza, among others. The expo will feature hot sauces from around the world, and the best (including Caribbean-style, fruit-based,and Louisiana-style categories) will be crowned a Screaming Mi Mi award. $10 to $100 per person. Saturday, April 23 & Sunday, April 24 Brooklyn Expo Center 79 Franklin St., Brooklyn nychotsauceexpo.com
Queen Majesty Hot Sauce won last year’s Screaming Mi Mi Award.
COURTESY OF HOT SAUCE EXPO
HOT SAUCE EXPO
RAMEN LAB POP UP Ramen Lab, the ramen joint operated by noodle maker Sun Noodle, is hosting Joe Ng, chef at Minneapolis, Minnesota’s Zen Box Izakaya. Ng will serve his unique ramen creations inspired by his background in architecture, including the Veggie Trio Abura Ramen, a broth-less bowl of al-dente noodles with yuzu, tempura cauliflower, and portobello mushrooms; the Tonkotsu Kimchi Ramen, with a potent, gingery broth; and Chuka Kamo Shoyu Ramen, a comforting chicken broth noodle soup inspired by Cantonese noodle dishes, topped with middle neck clams, slices of chicken chashu, and XO sauce. Through Saturday, April 23 Ramen Lab 70 Kenmare St. ramen-lab.com
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
The Nuaa
❧
1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
TEA CEREMONY AT KOSAKA Learn the history behind the Japanese tea ceremony. Tea master Souheki Mori will teach you how to enjoy a tea ceremony properly, while explaining the meaning behind traditional teaware. Sweets from Kyoto will also be served. $50 per person. Sunday, April 24 1 p.m.–2:30 p.m. Kosaka 220 W. 13th St. kosakanyc.com
The New Umami Experience
GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY
Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces.
Donguri’s Seared Wagyu Steak.
Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
DONGURI SPRING MENU Japanese restaurant Donguri is serving a special springtime tasting menu, with dishes like Clear Soup with top neck clams and broccoli rabe; Seared Wagyu Steak; Vinegared Grilled Saltwater Eel and Cucumber; and the chef’s selection of Whitefish Tempura. $150 per person. Through May 31 Donguri 309 E. 83rd St. donguriny.com
Chefs prepare dishes at last year’s No Kid Hungry benefit event.
TASTE OF THE NATION Taste of the Nation will benefit a campaign by No Kid Hungry to implement free breakfast programs in schools across the country. The benefit dinner will include dishes prepared by chefs Daniela Soto-Innes of Cosme, Missy Robbins of Lilia, Sam Masonof Oddfellows Ice Cream, and Leah Cohen of Pig & Khao. Every dollar goes to feeding 10 meals to a child. $250 to $400 per person. Monday, April 25 6 p.m.–9 p.m. 225 Liberty St. ce.nokidhungry.org
ANEJO TRIBECA’S EXPRESS LUNCH MENU Añejo Tribeca is now serving a $13 “express lunch” menu for your Mexican food cravings. Enjoy a selection of tortas or tacos with yucca fries, chips and salsa, a market salad, and a soft drink. Options include an Eggplant Milanesa torta with crispy eggplant and pumpkin seed babaganoush; beer-battered Mahi Mahi torta with jalapeño slaw; and Chicken “Estilo al Pastor” tacos served with pineapple and avocado salsa.
We Now Deliver!
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
JAPANESE STYLE Champagne Lounge
Monday–Friday 11:30 p.m.–4 p.m. Añejo Tribeca 301 Church St. anejotribeca.com
WINE SPECTATOR GRAND TOUR
COURTESY OF Q&A RESIDENTIAL HOTEL
For Reservations and Information
Enjoy fine wines from more than 240 wineries around the world. All the bottles have been rated 90 points or higher by Wine Spectator magazine. Attendees can mingle with the winemakers and feast on a buffet meal. $325 per person.
917-450-5701 clubvoa@gmail.com
✴
Tuesday, April 26 7 p.m.–10 p.m. New York Mariott Marquis 1535 Broadway grandtour.winespectator.com
3 VIP Karaoke Rooms
249 East 49th St., 2nd Fl. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) CLUBVOA.NYC
FOIE GRAS BAGELS FROM WALLFLOWER Get a luxurious twist on the New York bagel. Wallflower, a French restaurant in the West Village, is now serving a foie gras bagel for brunch, with heavy cream and pickled ramps. $13. Wallflower 235 W. 12th St. wallflowernyc.com
Hours: Mon–Sat 9pm–3am, Fri 9pm–4am, Sun (bar only) 8pm–2am
A Q&A Residential Hotel’s bedroom suite.
TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL FOOD DEALS Movie buffs who are planning to attend the Tribeca Film Festival can look forward to some sweet dining deals. The nearby Q&A Residential Hotel is offering a package deal where guests can enjoy a $150 gift card to a local restaurant and passes to two film screenings and two Tribeca Talks panel discussions. $600 and up Meanwhile, the festival’s official hotel partner, Gild Hall, will provide sips of Bira, an Indian craft brew, each Friday from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. during the festival. The hotel will also offer tastings of Pipcorn, an artisanal popcorn brand from Brooklyn. Thursday, April 14–Sunday, April 24 qandahotel.com thompsonhotels.com/tribeca-film-festival
There are the restaurants you go to, and
COURTESY OF WALLFLOWER
RICE CREAM SHOPPE’S RICE PUDDING POCKETS Try a new spin on comfort food with the rice pudding pocket from Rice Cream Shoppe: a brioche bun filled with rice pudding, with a choice of caramel cashew crunch, chocolate crisp, Italian lemon cookie, hazelnut crunch, or pomegranate flavors. The pockets are made to order and will be limited to 50 per day. $4.50 each. Rice Cream Shoppe 195 Bleecker St. ricecreamshoppe.com
The Restaurant You Go Back to.
SUSHI SEKI SPRING COCKTAIL Sushi Seki is welcoming spring with a cherry blossom cocktail, The Sakura, created by award-winning bartender Shingo Gokan. The cocktail is made with junmai sake, “umeshu” (plum liqueur), peach tree liqueur, Champagne vinegar, sakura brine, and simple syrup, and topped with a floating cherry blossom. It is presented in a wooden box—the way sake is traditionally served.
I
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many
celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).
Sushi Seki 1143 First Ave. sushiseki.com
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.patsys.com
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town
SO FRESH!
Authentic & Delicious Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues)
#
COURTESY OF MOMOSAN RAMEN
Momosan Ramen & Sake The latest to join the ramen fray is chef Masaharu Morimoto. The “Iron Chefâ€? has carved out a space on Murray Hill to oer rich Tonkotsu (with soy tare, pork chashu, aji-tama, kikurage, takana, garlic oil, and nori), Tantan (spicy coconut curry, pork chashu, red miso ground pork, ahi-tama, cilantro, and scallion), and Tokyo Chicken (soy tare, steamed chicken, aji-tama, menma, seared garlic chive, kikurage, and toasted nori) ramen dishes, to be washed down with more than a dozen sake options by the glass. There are also rice dishes such as Chashu Bap (with pork chashu, menma, daikon, spinach, takana, egg yolk, red yuzu, kosho, and sweet chashu sauce).
342 Lexington Ave. (between 39th & 40th streets) 646-201-9273
Tantan Ramen.
Tacuba Cantina Mexicana COURTESY OF TACUBA
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
The second outpost of Tacuba, from the Toloache Restaurant Group, has just opened in Manhattan. Located in Hell’s Kitchen, the restaurant is modeled after a traditional Mexican cantina and has a spirited vibe, enlivened by colorful tilework, murals, and vintage tequila advertisements. The menu by chef Julian Medina features favorites such as Carne Asada and Chile Relleno from the Astoria outpost of Tacuba, as well as new creations. Among the latter are the Omelette de Chapulin (a Oaxacan grasshopper omelette with Oaxaca cheese and chorizo); Quesadilla de Flor with burrata, Manchego, zucchini flower, kale pesto, and chile de årbol; and Langosta Puerto Nuevo (spicy lobster, chipotle butter, frisÊe, hearts of palm, haricots verts, and sesame-ginger dressing). The Piùa Para la Niùa, which is a margarita for two served in a pineapple, is available along with new cocktails such as La Refescante margarita with Maestro Dobel Blanco, muddled cucumber and ginger, grapefruit Jarrito, agave nectar, and fresh lime. Open daily for dinner. Lunch and brunch service to follow.
New cocktails are on the menu at the new Tacuba.
802 Ninth Ave. (between 53rd & 54th streets) 212-245-4500 tacubanyc.com
227 Lenox Ave. (between 121st & 122nd streets) 646-928-4870 sottocasanyc.com
CO U
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F OC TT SO
Harlem’s newest pizzeria oers pizza in the traditional Neapolitan style, and is run by Matteo Prospiti and Elena Della Volpe, who were last managing a restaurant on the island of Elba, o the coast of Tuscany, but were so smitten by Harlem’s vibe and energy that they decided to not only move there but also bring a slice of Italy with them. For their pizzas, they source 00 flour and organic tomatoes from Italy, fior di latte from Wisconsin, and extra virgin olive oil from Sicily. The pizzaiolo, Gimmy Piperku, was a second place winner of this year’s USA Caputo Cup in the Neapolitan style division. Sottocasa also oers gluten-free pizza, which Piperku said he finds even better than the regular version. Sottocasa also has locations in Williamsburg and Boerum Hill. Open Tuesday to Friday, from 5 p.m., and Saturday & Sunday, from noon.
COURTESY OF SOTTOCASA
Sottocasa
AS
A
Sottocasa serves Neapolitan-style pizza.
COURTESY OF THE PAVILION We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills� approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
The Pavilion The Pavilion Market Cafe in Union Square returns for its third season on April 15. Chef Mario Urgiles has created a seasonal American menu, with dishes complemented by cocktails, craft beers, and an international wine list. Open daily from 9 a.m. until midnight.
The Pavilion reopens for the warm season.
20 Union Square West 212-677-7818 thepavilionnyc.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Sta
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF DELMONICO’S
Another First
Sea Trout à la Meunière.
for Delmonico’s
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff The oldest restaurant in America can count many firsts, including the first printed menu, the first celebrity chef (Charles Ranhofer), and the first Eggs Benedict. On April 20, it will celebrate the anniversary of another first. In 1868, at a time when women were required to be accompanied by a male escort to dine publicly, Delmonico’s was the first restaurant to serve women dining without the company of men. In “Dining at Delmonico’s,” authors Judith Choate and James Canora recount how columnist Jane Cunningham Croly (better known to the readers of her column as Jennie June) was rejected from attending the New York Press Club’s banquet honoring Charles Dickens.
Croly and other women organized. As a result, the first club dedicated to professional women, Sorosis, was born; Croly went to restaurateur Lorenzo Delmonico seeking a gathering space. And so the first women’s only luncheon took place at Delmonico’s. To honor the occasion, the restaurant is serving dishes from the original menu. One is a classic preparation of Sea Trout à la Meunière—crisp and golden on the outside and moist inside— served with a refreshing cucumber salad ($26). Asparagus being a hallmark of spring then and now, the other dish is Asparagus Nouvelles with hollandaise and black truffle ($16). The First Ladies’ Luncheon Special Menu is available at both Delmonico’s and Delmonico’s Kitchen throughout the spring, starting April 20. COURTESY OF DELMONICO’S
Delmonico’s
56 Beaver St. delmonicosrestaurant.com
Delmonico’s Kitchen 207 W. 36th St. delmonicoskitchen.com
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Asparagus Nouvelles.
COURTESY OF OLDWAYS
A Celebration of Raw Milk Cheeses By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Raw Milk Cheese Appreciation Day takes place on April 16, with over 540 events in 10 countries. Organized by the nonprofit organization Oldways, the day is meant to highlight the heritage of raw milk cheese. “Raw milk, unpasteurized cheeses are truly the old ways, and this delicious, traditional food deserves attention,” said Sara Baer-Sinnott, Oldways president. Emily Acosta, cheesemonger at Eataly in Manhattan and producer of podcast “Cutting the Curd” on Heritage Food Network said people don’t necessarily realize that some of their favorite cheeses, such as Parmigiano Reggiano or Gruyère, are actually made with raw milk. “Because there’s no heat treatment [of the milk], you don’t kill off the good bacteria that contribute to flavor and give a sense of place,” she said. On a recent trip to France, she visited producers of comté cheese, who do not add any other bacteria cultures—there’s only the naturally present bacteria, which contributes to the ultimate flavor of the cheese. She said,
Cheeses at Cowgirl Creamery Cheese Shop in San Francisco.
“This is why each wheel is going to be super different, depending what time of the year the milk was collected, what the animals were eating, even what mountain they were grazing on. Domestically one of her favorite raw milk cheeses is Ouleout, made by a cheesemaker who started making cheese in his apartment in Brooklyn and whose creamery, Vulto Creamery, is located in Walton, N.Y., in the Catskills. He delivers his cheeses to Eataly every Friday. “It’s stinky, fudgy, it’s like eating pudding but stinky cheese pudding,” she said. Eataly will celebrate Raw Milk Appreciation Day on April 18 with complimentary tastings of raw milk cheeses (noon–3 p.m.); its restaurants will offer different cheese dishes. Raw milk cheeses in the United States— domestic or imported—are by law at least 60 days old. New York City events for the Raw Milk Appreciation Day take place at Lucy’s Whey, Murray’s Cheese, 61 Bergen, and Campbell Cheese & Grocery. For information, visit www.oldwayscheese.org
212-594-4963 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com JERRY RUOTOLO
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
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All the high school students who participated in the C-CAP culinary competition this year won a scholarship award.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
YOUNG ASPIRING CHEFS Compete for a Chance at Their Dreams
TACOS All day, every day
A huge selection of Tacos, made the traditional way with authentic fillings and flavors such as: CARNITAS BISTEC OREJA LENGUA AND MORE! Did we mention they start at $3?
We also serve torta sandwiches!
Taqueria Tehuitzingo
695 10th Ave (@ 48th St.) + 578 W. 9th. Ave (Btw 41st & 42nd St)
646-707-3916 + TaqueriaTehutzingo.com Hours Daily 11:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m.
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
F
rom the French top gas stoves to the shiny metal cooking stations, everything is meant to replicate the environs of a real restaurant kitchen. The sounds of chopping and oil sizzling are interspersed with shouts of “behind you!â€? and “hot pan!â€? as the chefs maneuver around each other. Their eyes are focused intently on their tasks, without a second of distraction. “Five minutes left, chefs!â€? As time ticks away, they begin to plate their dishes, carefully arranging the tournĂŠe potatoes and wiping the plate surfaces clean. But these young cooks are not on a food reality television show; they are high school students, competing for scholarships to attend culinary programs across the country. Every year, the nonprofit organization Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP) holds a competition for aspiring chefs attending select New York City public high schools. It provides mentoring, job training, and internships. An elite group of students is chosen to enter the scholarship competition, based on teacher nominations, a preliminary competition, and academic record. The competition is the culmination of months of practice, inside the classroom and after school. C-CAP President Susan Robbins said the organization exists to help students, many of whom come from disadvantaged homes, develop their careers and learn as much as possible about the restaurant industry. On competition day, she hopes they will shine so that the chef judges will hand them each a business card. “Each student shows that they can get an entry-level job in the kitchen,â€? she said. After an interview and review of their competition performances, the students are awarded partial or full scholarships to top culinary schools such as the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE), the International Culinary Center, and Johnson & Wales University (worth over $670,000 in total).
The competition is the culmination of months of practice, inside the classroom and after school.
Aspiring chef Darlene Reyes’s dessert crepes with pastry cream and chocolate sauce.
Rich Paella Valenciana
ESTELA DUCE PHOTOGRAPHY
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
ESTELA DUCE PHOTOGRAPHY
C-CAP founder Richard Grausman said he assesses through interviews what the students are passionate about, and then C-CAP matches them with a school that can best fit their aspiration. “We want them to pay for their education as little as possible,â€? he said. “We don’t want them to go into debt, in this industry that doesn’t pay a whole lot.â€? It was on a morning in late March that the competing students filed into kitchens at ICE to cook two classic French dishes: hunter’s chicken with tournĂŠe potatoes (cut into an oblong shape with seven sides), and dessert crepes with pastry cream and chocolate sauce— all within a two-hour limit. The chef judges included Ashley Abodeely of The NoMad, Giovanna Alvarez of Asiate, Aaron Bludorn and Cesar Gutierrez of CafĂŠ Boulud, Philip DeMaiolo of Pier Sixty, Krystal Lewis of The Spotted Pig, Paige Nebrig of Bouchon Bakery, and Braden Reardon of NYY Steak. Lewis, who is a C-CAP alum, recalled how nervous she was eight years ago as a student in the competition, preparing the same dishes. “You dive in head first, but then slow down toward the middle. You just have to try and keep a level head and stay focused,â€? she said. Lewis and the other judges (including Robbins, Grausman, and ICE instructor Ted Siegel) walked around the stations, observing the students and giving them tips on how to improve. Lewis said she was looking at the fluidity of their movements to gauge their confidence— a critical trait inside the kitchen. “[I’m looking at] the sequence of events, what they do first, if they know their next move.â€? As for the dishes, she will judge whether the chicken was cooked to the right texture (crispy skin, juicy meat), the right amount of viscosity in the sauce (not too thick), and how well they make the pastry cream (smooth and not too sweet). At the end of the competition, she and other chefs gave parting words of advice to the students. Lewis encouraged the young cooks to grab every opportunity to learn from their mistakes. “Grow more, and like a lobster, your shell ESTELA DUCE PHOTOGRAPHY
Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
Chefs evaluate the students’ dishes on their presentation.
Miguel Lora at the scholarship competition.
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April 15–21, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com JERRY RUOTOLO
ESTELA DUCE PHOTOGRAPHY
(Left) (L–R) C-CAP President Susan Robbins, School of Hospitality Management and the Culinary Arts at Monroe College Dean Frank C. Costantino, aspiring chef Darlene Reyes, and C-CAP founder and Chairman Richard Grausman. (Right) Students in the heat of the competition. ESTELA DUCE PHOTOGRAPHY
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Darlene Reyes’s hunter’s chicken dish. will get harder,” she said. A week later, the results were announced at a ceremony held at The Pierre Hotel across from Central Park. Parents, teachers, C-CAP board members, alums, and other supporters celebrated the big day with the students. Tears flowed freely, even as the young chefs tried to smile for the camera. Miguel Lora, from the High School of Hospitality Management, won a full-tuition scholarship to ICE. As a young boy, Lora recalls helping around the kitchen for the big Thanksgiving dinner—and especially with his favorite dish, lasagna. But it wasn’t until his sophomore year that he started taking culinary classes and seriously considered a career as a chef. For Lora, who currently works part time at Salvation Taco, challenges in the kitchen motivate him to keep going. “It’s the process of learning and failing. When I fail, it’s so disappointing because I know I could do better. But at the same time, it’s so enjoyable because each time, I’m improving a little bit more,” he said. “It’s hard to accept failure, but it also feels good to take that failure and turn it into strength.” Darlene Reyes from the Food and Finance High School decided early on that she wanted to become a chef. “I never pictured myself in an office, sitting as a secretary looking at a computer screen all day,” she said. “I like interacting with people and making people happy with my food.” With a full-tuition scholarship to Monroe College’s culinary program, Reyes will be the first in her family to earn a bachelor’s degree. She names her teachers as her biggest role models, including chef instructor Michael Lynch. “He helped me get here. He trained me everyday after school for C-CAP. He’s taught me not only things in the kitchen, but life lessons and advice that I really appreciate—never give up, always keep striving.” She hopes to one day open a restaurant or bakery of her own. After receiving her award, Reyes teetered off the stage in her glamorous high heels and joined her family for celebratory photos, all while fighting back tears.
Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
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SOJU HAUS offers traditional, healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations. While traditional cocktails often deplete the
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Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
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Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
Try it with the Lemon Soju Krystal Lewis gives high school student Jodie-Ann Williams some cooking tips during the competition.
Seafood Pancake
Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine
Sunday – Wednesday 5:00 pm – 2:00 am Thursday 5:00 pm – 3:00 am Friday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 4:00 am
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ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com
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GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s Chinese Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK
Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St.
Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
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spray or breadcrumbs, while others typically call for just a tablespoon of oil. He said an air fryer can cook a dish in about 10 to 15 minutes, compared to 25 to 30 minutes in a regular oven. “Simple, and the results are very close, if not an exact replica of fried food,” English said. But with far less fat. Guy Crosby, a professor in the department of nutrition at Harvard’s School of Public Health, agreed that air fryers can help cut back on the amount of fat used in cooking, but obviously are only as healthy as the foods that go in them. From The Associated Press
Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
Lau t
ept
Todd English has a new—and unlikely—love: the air fryer. “I was amazed at the quality of the way things came out,” English, a prolific and award-winning restaurateur and television chef, said in a recent interview. “And the versatility of it was something I also loved.” Air fryers aren’t new, but the high-profile attention they have been getting is. Which is all a bit surprising, given their as-seen-onTV appeal. Unlike classic deep-fry devices, air fryers don’t use kettles of oil to cook. Instead, they are essentially small, countertop versions of a convection oven. They use a fan that constantly pushes super hot air around the food. This means they cook faster, deeper and— with almost no oil—crunchier than traditional appliances. English has become so smitten with air fryers, he’s just released a cookbook dedicated to them, “The Air Fryer Cookbook.” The book features recipes for everything from stuffed portobello mushroom and spinach pizzas to sesame-ginger fried pork, as well as the more classic (and expected) french fries and chips. He argues that air fryers are a natural for home cooks, who generally love fried food but don’t know how to properly cook it using traditional oil methods. “Most people don’t know when to change the oil on a tabletop” deep fryer, nor do they know how to properly manage the temperature, he said. Air fryers, English explains, correct for all of that. Many of his recipes use only cooking
(btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
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MIDTOWN EAST
ST. MARTIN’S CASTLE POINT VIA AP
By Kevin Begos
10 Delicious Ways to Dress Up Your Spring Asparagus By Katie Workman The fact that decent asparagus is now available all year doesn’t really matter. We’ve been programed to think of it as something we must eat in spring. And so we shall. The good news is that asparagus is wildly versatile. It’s delicious raw (and, so long as you don’t mind the cliche, wrapped in prosciutto), roasted, shaved, sliced, chopped, even puréed (think creamy soup). Its assertive flavor means it pairs well with robust meats (everything from the roasts of early spring to the barbecue of early summer), but it still is light and fresh enough to work in a salad (farro and feta would be nice). So to help you get spring off to a great start, here are 10 fresh, easy ideas for eating more asparagus. Soup Cut 1 bunch of asparagus into 1/2-inch pieces. Steam until just tender and still bright green. Reserve 1/2 cup of pieces, then blend the remaining asparagus with 1 cup warmed half-and-half and 1 cup warmed low-sodium chicken broth or stock. Season with salt and pepper and a pinch of cayenne. Spoon into bowls and top with the reserved pieces of asparagus and a sprinkle of crumbled feta cheese. Pizza Arrange thin asparagus spears over a prepared pizza crust. Top with slices of brie and pieces of torn prosciutto. Bake at 400 F until the crust is golden and the cheese is melted, about 10 minutes. Drizzle with balsamic glaze. Panini Assemble a sandwich of sundried tomato pesto, cooked bacon, asparagus spears, and fontina cheese. Butter the outsides of the bread and pan fry, pressing with a spatula until the cheese is melted and the sandwich is heated through. Roasted Toss asparagus lightly with oil, then season with salt and pepper. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet and roast at 400 F until browned and tender. Bigger stalks are best for this. Sprinkle with crumbled blue cheese and toasted walnuts.
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Pilaf In a skillet, cook 2 chopped shallots in 3 tablespoons butter. Add 1 bunch asparagus (chopped small) and 1/2 cup chopped pecans. Cook until tender and lightly browned. Add 2 cups cooked rice and 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme. Season with salt and black pepper.
Glazed In a skillet, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Add a bunch of asparagus and 2 tablespoons maple syrup. Cook until the asparagus is tender and the sauce is slightly reduced. Season with salt and pepper, then stir in the zest of 1/2 lemon. Noodles Using a paring knife or peeler, cut a bunch of asparagus lengthwise into thin strips. Boil 8 ounces of fettuccini pasta, adding the asparagus during the last minute of cooking. Drain and toss with butter, 1 minced clove garlic, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. Season with salt and pepper. In a Jacket Microwave a baking potato until tender. Cut in half and scoop out the middle, leaving enough potato flesh to keep the shape. Mash the scooped out middle and stir in a handful of shredded cheddar cheese, chopped fresh chives and chopped, lightly steamed asparagus. Spoon back into the potato skins and place on a baking sheet. Bake at 400 F for 15 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and lightly browned. Bruschetta Thinly slice a bunch of asparagus diagonally. Combine with 1 cup chopped roasted red peppers, 1 cup diced fresh mozzarella cheese, 1/4 cup torn basil leaves, 1 minced clove garlic, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoon red wine vinegar, and 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard. Season with salt and black pepper. Serve over slices of rustic bread. Salad Boil 1 pound fingerling potatoes in salted water, then drain and cool. Slice the potatoes into 1/4-inch-thick slices. Combine with 1 bunch asparagus, lightly steamed and cut into 2-inch pieces. Dress with 1/2 cup crème fracîhe, 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, 1 tablespoon lemon juice, 2 tablespoons chopped chives, 1 tablespoon finely minced fresh rosemary, salt, and pepper. Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” From The Associated Press
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MATZO LASAGNA A Vegetarian Passover Dish Anyone Can Love By Sara Moulton
A whole sheet of matzo is a tailor-made bed on which to layer other ingredients. MOTI MEIRI/ISTOCK
Let’s say that most of the folks coming to your place for the Passover feast are vegetarians. And let’s say that you want to cater to them without breaking the hearts of the die-hard carnivores whose mouths water at the very thought of pot roast. Is there a centerpiece dish that will make everyone happy? Yes. As long as your vegetarians can tolerate dairy, this “lasagna” is a winner. Passover forbids the eating of most foods made with flour, which is why this recipe calls for whole matzos (an exception to that rule) in place of lasagna noodles. Matzo turns out to be a perfect stand in. Thin and square (they’re usual 6- or 7-inch squares), a whole sheet of matzo is a tailor-made bed on which to layer other ingredients. It also absorbs flavors beautifully, holds its shape when baked, and browns nicely in the oven. I’ve paired the matzo with zucchini, which loses its watery blandness and gains a springlike assertiveness once it’s been shredded, salted, squeezed and sautéed briefly with onions and garlic. The zucchini is then combined with my cheating version of a cream sauce. Typically, that would be a béchamel— milk or cream thickened with a roux. That’s too much work. It’s much easier simply to use a food processor to whiz together cottage cheese, milk, eggs, and cream cheese. The result is a sauce as creamy and delicious as a béchamel without any of the gummy flour taste that can mar the classic sauce.
The matzos need to be soaked in some of the cheese mixture to soften them slightly before baking. To do so, stack them in a deep container that isn’t much wider than the matzo itself. I used a square brownie pan and rotated each matzo’s place in the stack every so often to make sure they all were evenly soaked. This is a way to counteract the fact that the liquid sinks to the bottom half of the container. Once you set the matzos in a rectangular baking pan, it’ll take two of them side-byside to form a single layer. If your matzos are 7 inches square, they’ll overlap a bit lengthwise, even as they fall slightly short of the pan’s width. Not to worry. The filling will indeed ooze out slightly beyond the edges of the matzos, but as the dish bakes all the parts come together beautifully, allowing you to cut it into individual servings with no problem. I dreamed up this dish as a Passover entree, but it would work equally well as the centerpiece for a brunch any time of the year. As for your Passover guests, here’s a prediction from someone who married into the tribe: As soon as they realize they can’t argue about the food, they’ll happily move on to politics. Sara Moulton is the host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.”
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From The Associated Press
RECIPE ZUCCHINI MATZO LASAGNA Prep & Cooking Time: 1 1/2 hours (1 hour active) Serves: 8 • • • • • • • • • • • • •
2 pounds medium zucchini Kosher salt and ground black pepper 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion 2 teaspoons minced garlic 1/3 cup packed fresh dill, chopped, plus extra chopped dill to garnish One 16-ounce container cottage cheese 2 cups whole milk 3 large eggs 1 tablespoon lemon zest 8 ounces cream cheese 6 ounces feta cheese, crumbled, divided 6 matzos (6- to 7-inch squares)
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 400 F. Coat a 13-by-9-inch baking dish with cooking spray. Trim off and discard the ends of the zucchini. In a food processor fitted with the grating disk, coarsely grate the zucchini. Transfer the zucchini to a strainer and toss with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt. Let drain over the sink or a bowl for 15 minutes. Set the food processor, unwashed, aside to puree the sauce in. After the
zucchini has drained, using your hands and working with small handfuls, squeeze out as much moisture from it as possible. In a large skillet over medium, heat the oil. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the 1/3 cup dill. Season with black pepper. Fit the food processor with the regular cutting blade. In it, combine the cottage cheese, milk, eggs and lemon zest. Process until smooth. Set aside 2 cups of the mixture, then add the cream cheese to the mixture remaining in the processor. Process until smooth, then pour the mixture into the zucchini mixture along with 1 cup of the feta. Stir well, then set aside. Stack the matzos in a deep dish (such as a square baking pan) and pour the reserved cottage cheese mixture over them. Let stand for 15 minutes, rotating the crackers every so often so they get evenly soaked. Arrange 2 of the soaked matzos in a single layer in the prepared baking dish. Top with half of the zucchini filling, spreading it evenly. Cover with 2 more matzos, then the remaining filling. Top with a final layer of matzo. Scoop any remaining filling from the bowl that the matzos were soaked in and spread it over the final matzo layer. Sprinkle with the remaining feta. Bake on the oven’s middle shelf until golden, 30 to 35 minutes. Let stand for 15 minutes before cutting and serving. Recipe by Sara Moulton
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
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Want a Better Passover Brisket? You Need to Know Your Cuts By Elizabeth Karmel Though most of my brisket experience has been spent at the smoker or the grill, I have fond memories of braised brisket, which I usually enjoyed during Passover with my Jewish relatives. I remember the beefy steam escaping into the kitchen as the tomato- and onion-flecked meat was spooned onto a serving dish. Sadly, the taste of the brisket was always a bit of a letdown, which is why I started smoking my briskets; it was an easy way to add lots of flavor. But recently I decided there must be a way to add flavor to a traditional braised brisket. But first, a brisket primer. A whole brisket averages 15 pounds, and butchers cut it in half to make it easier to sell and easier to cook. The first cut—the lower half of the brisket—is the lean piece, also called the flat. It’s the cut most often found at grocers. But because it’s so lean, it generally has little flavor. The second cut sits on top of the flat. Called the point, this cut is fattier and far more flavorful. Most butchers end up grinding the point for burger meat, mistakenly (at least in my mind) assuming people won’t want a fattier cut. But I certainly do! And you should, too. And don’t worry about the fat—much of it melts away from the meat during cooking and is easily
separated from the pan sauce later. So if you want an amazing holiday brisket, ask for the point or second cut. If you don’t have a butcher in your neighborhood who can provide this for you, you can order the point from any number of online retailers, including Master Purveyors (one of the largest sellers of meat in the country). Trust me. ... The flavor difference is worth the trouble. Now that you know what meat to get, let’s talk cooking. My secret for getting the best flavor is to make this recipe the day before I serve it. It is very hands-off, but needs patience and time to make it right. That includes letting it set overnight in the refrigerator. This step is important for many reasons, including that it makes it easy to remove the fat. Though the recipe is written for an oven braise, if you have a slow cooker with a sauté setting, it’s easy to do it in that. Eight hours on high in the slow cooker is perfect. Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pitmaster at online retailer carolinacuetogo. com and author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.” From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
RECIPE TWO-DAY BRAISED POINT BRISKET Prep & Cooking Time: 40 minutes active plus 4–6 hours cooking and overnight chilling Serves: 10 If the brisket is too long for your Dutch oven, cut it into two pieces. • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper 4- to 5-pound point or second-cut brisket Olive oil 2 medium red onions, cut into rings One 18 1/2-ounce can French onion soup One 14 1/2-ounce can stewed tomatoes 2 cups red wine 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, plus extra to garnish 1 cup (about 1 ounce) dried porcini mushrooms 4 large carrots, cut into chunks Chopped fresh parsley, to serve Flaked sea salt
DIRECTIONS Heat the oven to 325 F. In a small bowl, stir together the salt, garlic powder, and pepper. Set aside.
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Arrange the onions evenly over the bottom of the Dutch oven, then set the brisket over them. Add the onion soup, tomatoes, wine, thyme, mushrooms, and carrots. Stir gently to combine, then cover and roast in the oven for 4 to 6 hours, or until the brisket is tender, but not falling apart. Remove the pot from the oven and let the brisket cool in the pot. Once cooled, cover and refrigerate overnight. The next day, skim off and discard the congealed layer of fat. Remove the brisket and set aside. Place the pot over mediumhigh high and the stovetop and bring to a simmer. Cook, uncovered, until reduced to 6 cups. Working in batches, transfer the liquid and vegetables to a blender and puree until smooth. Return to the pot.
If necessary, trim excess fat off the brisket, but leave about 1/4 inch on both sides. Brush any exposed meat (where there is no fat) with olive oil, then season all over with the spice mixture.
Slice the brisket into 1/4-inch slices against the grain and place the slices into the reduced juices to warm. Simmer for 4 to 5 minutes. Serve the slices with the juices and topped with parsley and flaked salt.
Heat a large Dutch oven over medium-high. Add the brisket and
Recipe by Elizabeth Karmel
Serving Fruit for Dessert Can Be Both Virtuous and Decadent By Melissa d’Arabian According to my grandmother, fruit is God’s candy, making it the perfect ending to a meal. I agree with Grandma—fruit is a lovely, healthy way to end a meal. But I’ll also confess that the dessert lover in me sometimes craves something a smidge fancier. And by fancier, I mean with chocolate. Berries are the perfect dessert fruit because their flavors are concentrated and bold, and they are both sweet and just a tiny bit tangy. Berries are gorgeous and elegant, which is important when it comes to pulling off fruit as a true dessert and not some sort of healthy consolation prize (Try serving sliced apples at your next dinner party and you’ll see what I mean). Plus, berries are rich in antioxidants, high in fiber, and low in calories. Raspberries, for instance, have just about 60 calories per cup. And despite their sweet taste, they pack only about 5 grams of sugar, but a whopping 8 grams of fiber. All of which means this dessert isn’t just tasty, it’s filling, too. Perhaps the best benefit to making berries the star of dessert is that there’s a little wiggle room to add a few bells and whistles.
One of my favorite fruit dessert strategies is to whip up a simple syrup (just water and sugar heated until they come together in a thin syrup) with cool flavors. Think about adding interesting spices, such as cardamom with vanilla bean and black pepper, or herbs, such as mint or basil and lemon zest. Then just drizzle your way to dessert magic. Add a tablespoon of liqueur or wine to the syrup—think orange liqueur or Marsala—and the flavors really pop. A few drops of almond extract or even cocktail bitters also are great. Only a tiny bit of a flavorful syrup is needed, but be aware that you are adding a bit of (worthwhile) sugar. Just before serving, use a vegetable peeler to shave off a few shards of deep, almost bitter chocolate, and you’ve just turned simple fruit into a weekend-worthy dessert. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press AP PH
RECIPE
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• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
sear all sides, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the brisket to a plate.
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Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
BITTERS AND BERRIES Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes, plus steeping Serves: 6 • • • • • • • •
1/3 cup raw coconut sugar 1/3 cup water 1 1/2 tablespoons angostura bitters 1/2 vanilla pod, sliced open lengthwise, seeds scraped out 1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest 2 tablespoons orange juice 4 cups mixed fresh berries (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, and/or blackberries) Very dark chocolate bar, to shave
DIRECTIONS In a small saucepan over medium, heat the sugar and water, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes. Stir in the bitters, vanilla pod and seeds, orange zest and juice, then cook for another 1 to 2 minutes, or until fragrant. Remove from the heat and allow to steep at room temperature for at least 30 minutes, or up to 2 hours. Discard the vanilla pod. Refrigerate if not using right away. Divide the berries among 6 dessert cups. Spoon about 2 tablespoons of the syrup over each berry bowl. Top with shavings of dark chocolate. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian