D1 April 17–23, 2015
You Ordered. We Delivered. The All New Epoch Taste.
Shiso leaves, radish, lemon peel, and other garnishes complete the artful presentation. Wild amberjack (hiramasa).
Surf clam (hokkigai).
Baby sea bream, head and tail.
Freshly grated horseradish on a shark skin grater.
Botan shrimp (botan ebi).
Baby sea bream (kasugo dai).
BEYOND SUSHI 101
A New Season for
Sushi
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Are you ready for the next level of sushi? Toshio Suzuki tells you what to eat when. Sushi Zen
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
s it turns out, there is a season for everything under the sun, and that includes fish. But unlike farm-raised animals, wild fish are constantly on the move. In Japan, sushi lovers have a minor obsession following their movements, as they ride on the currents that circulate along the coastlines, looking for their next meal.
Where warm and cold currents meet, they strike gold. Plankton is plentiful there, mixing with the nutrients that percolate from the mountains, down the rivers into the sea, according to Toshio Suzuki, master chef at at Sushi Zen in Midtown. See Sushi Zen on D9
108 W. 44th St. (between 6th and 7th avenues) 212-302-0707 SushiZen-NY.com Hours Monday–Friday noon–10 p.m. Saturday 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Closed Sundays
Sushi Zen master chef Toshio Suzuki.
Epoch Taste
D2 April 17–23, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com
Welcome to Epoch Taste
The New Logo Takes Form
More than mere sustenance, food is comfort, adventure, and celebration.
Epoch Times Creative Director Rob Counts explains the process How did we go about creating a new logo for Epoch Taste? Epoch Times Creative Director Rob Counts recounts the process and the iterations—the good, the cheesy, and the one that drew immediate consensus from the room (never has he seen a logo agreed upon as quickly): We really wanted to create something that would simultaneously appeal to the major food enthusiasts out there who really understand and know food well and at the same time really try to get down to the fundamentals of what great food is about and what our team is trying to produce for our readers. I sat down with the editor and we started talking about what it is that visually we can hang on to—what makes food, food, culturally, and just what are some symbols of food that represent what we’re doing. Fire First, fire—for obvious reasons. The problem with fire is it represents symbolically many different things. … Fire can be fun but just as quickly can become cheesy. The logos I was producing were extremely cheesy. In one of them, the word “Taste” was on fire. It looked like it was a logo for some zany auto show. Social The next one we discussed was the social side to food. Food is what brings people together, what brings families together, it’s how people celebrate through food. You eat and your body rejoices—that celebration as well. Funny enough, that social logo was very hip, and my mother liked that the most. It means my mom is younger than she tells me she is or it was a good logo that would appeal to everyone. Crumbs Then, crumbs: what’s left on the plate, organic food particles. I made a beautiful logo from that.
Think of catching up with long lost friends, getting to know new ones, or going home for the holidays. At its core, food brings us together.
In the end, though, the crumbs could too easily be skewed as being leftovers. You want people to feel like it’s fresh and something you’d want to dig into. Looking at this, it evokes that sad feeling you get when you show up at a restaurant and your friends have eaten all the food and you have to order and wait.
Yikes! Looks like the logo for an auto show.
Finally: Plating Plating is one of the most beautiful things I can think of when it comes to a dining experience. Seeing a balsamic reduction poured beautifully around a filet or a raspberry reduction poured around a dessert makes my mouth water every time I think about it … and I don’t think I’m alone in that feeling. It’s simultaneously appetizing and surprising. It brings food out of its normal basic function of providing sustenance and adds in something very human and beautiful into the process. It makes food into art. I found a lot of excellent photography of great food plating. Then I started drawing. The concept was to have “TASTE” in the middle as the entree. Over the course of three days I meticulously drew the reduction around it, using the references that I found. The funny thing is, you’d probably never know it took that long, since it looks really organic. But I really had to make it look and feel like reduction. Eventually it started to look like something I wanted to eat— that’s how I knew it was starting to get to the right place. I wanted top chefs to look at it and have smiles on their faces. I hope that people appreciate the attention we’re putting into the new logo. It represents the attention we’re putting into our all new Epoch Taste section. Everyone on this team—not only are we writers and artists but we share a love for food. We’re creating what we’re eating and drinking. We’re as excited to make this as awesome as hopefully our readers are about going out and eating the things we’re writing about.
Yummy. It’s close! But no candy cigar.
Over the next few weeks, we’ll roll out new features. We’ll be talking to chefs, trendsetters, and restaurateurs, and inviting you to be part of those conversations. We’ll be asking you what you think too: “If you eat something, say something.” Let’s start the conversation. Visit our new website at EpochTaste.com, email us at EpochTaste@EpochTimes.com, or follow us @EpochTaste.
Mmm... but could be messy leftovers.
My mother’s favorite.
BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES
(Clockwise from bottom L) Rowena Tsai, Channaly Philipp, Rob Counts, Seth Holehouse, and Jan Jekielek discuss the new logo for Epoch Taste.
With the launch of Epoch Taste, we are putting our name “Epoch” on a medium that we believe has done nothing short of transforming society, be it in the humblest—yet often most delicious—ways.
Interesting perspective. Hard to read.
Managing Editor:
Channaly Philipp
Creative Director:
Rob Counts
Director of Marketing:
Jan Jekielek
Director of Audience Development:
Seth Holehouse
Editor: Social Media Editor:
Orysia McCabe Rowena Tsai
Senior Designer:
Luba Pishchik
Photographers:
Samira Bouaou Benjamin Chasteen
Web Designer: Advertising Director:
Which logo did you like best? Send us a tweet @EpochTaste
Luís Fernando Novaes Jimmy Xie
Talk to us: EpochTaste@EpochTimes.com Advertising Inquiries: AdvertiseNow@EpochTimes.com
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D4 April 17–23, 2015
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Chef's Spring Favorite: Fiddlehead Ferns By Rowena Tsai Epoch Times Staff
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Who knew vegan dishes could look and taste so much like gourmet? Blossom, an organic vegan restaurant known for its dedication to creating innovative vegan dishes, is a breath of fresh air to the commonly underrepresented world of vegan cuisine. The restaurant debuted a new spring menu called In Bloom, creatively putting vegetables center stage. We had the chance to ask Blossom’s executive chef Ramiro Ramirez about his favorite spring ingredient, and how he would use it in a dish. His answer: fiddlehead ferns because of their rarity. They are only harvested for a few weeks. In addition, they are a great source of vegan Omega-3s. “We’re so spoiled these days with fruits and vegetables that are available year-round,” Ramirez said. “Fiddleheads remind us that there are seasons to our food.”
RECIPE
Fiddlehead Fern Risotto
For the Sautéed Vegetables
Makes 4 servings
E 1 pound baby tri-color carrots (peeled)
For the Risotto
E 1 pound baby fennel
E 3 cups Arborio rice
E 1/2 pound fiddlehead ferns
E 1/2 a white onion
E 1 tablespoon vegan butter (Earth Balance)
E 1/4 cup white wine E 3 cups water E 3 tablespoons olive oil E 2 tablespoons salt E 1 tablespoon black pepper For the Green Pea Sauce E 2 cups green peas (frozen is fine) E 1 cup water E 2 handfuls spinach E zest of 2 lemons E 1 tsp salt
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E 1 teaspoon minced shallots
E Salt and pepper to taste Mince onion. Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large sauté pan and add the minced onion, sautéing until soft and translucent, but not browning. Add the dry Arborio rice, and sauté for 2–3 minutes. Add white wine, continue to stir. Add the water, and simmer on low heat until the water is absorbed. Set the risotto aside. Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil. Blanche the peas for 30 seconds to 1 minute, then
Weighing In on Vegetables By Channaly Philipp Epoch Times Staff Back in the day when cookbook author and New York Times columnist Martha Rose Shulman was looking for a publisher for her vegetarian cookbook, she was told by a publishing house, “We already have a vegetarian cookbook.” How far things have come since then! Vegetableforward, veggie-centric—however you call it, vegetables have come to the fore of the consciousness and even to the center of the plate in some cases. Three chefs, April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig, The Breslin), Amanda Cohen (Dirt Candy), and Franklin Becker (Little Beet, Little Beet Table), weighed in on vegetables.
submerge in icewater for 30 seconds to stop the cooking process. Remove the peas from the icewater and place in a high-speed blender with the 1 cup water, spinach, lemon zest, and salt. Blend until smooth, then set aside. Finally, heat the vegan butter in a large sauté pan. Add prepped vegetables to pan and sauté on medium heat until beginning to brown. Set aside. To finish the risotto, heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large sauté pan on medium heat. Add the shallots and a splash of white wine, and sauté for 1–2 minutes. Add the finished risotto and green pea sauce, and stir in pan until well-combined. Place the risotto on a plate, and top with the sautéed fiddleheads, carrots, and fennel. Enjoy!
LIZ CLAYMAN
April Bloomfield has recently written a second cookbook, "A Girl and Her Greens." "A lot of people know I cook pork. I wanted to show them I love vegetables," she said. Meat does make its way in, judiciously. She uses anchovies, bacon, or bacon fat "to fortify the vegetables and take them to a different place." Like her head-to-tail philosophy, you'll find her using as many parts of the vegetables as possible, like carrot tops in a pesto. "I'm respectful. I cook using everything." April Bloomfield.
LIZ CLAYMAN
To make vegetables exciting is not necessarily easy. The difference between meat and vegetables? “Vegetables have one texture,” Amanda Cohen said. She brings a variety of techniques to bear on vegetables. For example, portobello is turned into a silky mousse, accompanied with sautéed Asian pears and truffle toast. Carrots are pickled and turned out with peanut mole sauce on carrot waffles. She notes that 75 percent of her customers aren’t vegan or vegetarian.
Amanda Cohen. LIZ CLAYMAN
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Franklin Becker, who is opening seven restaurants this year, loves vegetables. "I think they make the world go round." And he seems to love root vegetables in particular. Through HungryRoot.com, he sells gluten-free spiralized noodles made of rutabagas, turnips, carrots, sweet potatoes, with accompanying sauces like creamy cashew alfredo.
Three chefs, April Bloomfield (The Spotted Pig, The Breslin), Amanda Cohen (Dirt Candy), and Franklin Becker (Little Beet, Little Beet Table), weigh in on vegetables at a Food Book Fair panel in Williamsburg on April 10.
Franklin Becker.
Epoch Taste
D5 April 17–23, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com COURTESY OF CHEF’S ROLL
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By Channaly Philipp Epoch Times Staff If fruits had personalities, avocados would epitomize the standard for relaxation. (Cue in summertime visions of guacamole and margaritas here.) It may be unseemly that a fierce competition centered on avocados even exists, but there it is: Avocado Madness. Last week, a March Madness-style avocadothemed competition, run by Chef’s Roll, culminated in a winner, left standing from a lineup of 64 chefs across the United States. Emerging victorious after six rounds of competition, chef Ricardo Heredia from San Diego claimed $10,000 in cash, a bottle of Angels Envy bourbon to celebrate, as well as a ticket to compete in the World Food Championships in Kissimmee, Florida. “Avocado Madness was just that—madness,” Heredia said. “This competition really tested my creativity and technical knowledge of one of the most unforgiving fruits to cook with, not to mention this event was the day after Easter!” Heredia has been cooking professionally for 15 years and is now executive chef and owner of Kitchen Mañoso, a consulting and education company dedicated to giving back to the community. The Final Round Heredia went head-to-head live with chef Dorian
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San Diego chef Ricardo Heredia, the winner of Avocado Madness.
Southall (Crescent Hotel & Resorts) to create an avocado-inspired menu. Here’s Heredia’s winning menu: 1st course: Baja Hiramasa Fish Taco (avocado tortilla, chia seed aguachile, avocado-bacon fat mayo, fried squash blossom) 2nd course: Pork Loin With Avocado Mole Verde (Flor de junio bean purée, epazote, jamaica, pickled onion, avocado oil) 3rd course: Avocado Churro (chocolate-avocado custard, avocado caramel, almond milk marshmallow, crystallized honey) The contest was sponsored by Avocados From Mexico. “We saw some very exciting and inspiring menu ideas from these talented chefs. Every entry, recipe, and image was a testament of their creativity and imagination and a perfect example of the versatility and year-round star power of Avocados From Mexico,” said Mark Garcia, director of food service for Avocados From Mexico.
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Epoch Taste
D6 April 17–23, 2015
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Banded crickets retrieve moisture from a sliced potato.
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By Terence Chea SAN FRANCISCO—They hop. They crawl. They squirm. And they could be coming to a dinner plate near you. An increasing number of “entopreneurs� are launching businesses to feed a growing appetite for crickets, mealworms, and other edible insects. These upstarts are trying to persuade more Americans to eat bugs, which can be produced with less land, food and water than other sources of animal protein. The United Nations has been promoting edible insects as a way to improve nutrition, reduce greenhouse-gas emissions, and create jobs in insect production. At least 2 billion people worldwide already eat insects as part of their diets, according to the 2013 report by the U.N. Food and Agriculture Organization. But it could be a tough sell for Westerners who are more likely to squash bugs than savor them. “Insects are viewed as what ruins food— a roach in your soup, a fly in your salad. That’s the biggest obstacle—the ick factor,� said Daniella Martin, the “Girl Meets Bug� blogger and author of “Edible: An Adventure Into the World of Eating Insects and the Last Great Hope to Save the Planet.� Inside San Francisco’s La Cocina, a commercial kitchen for food entrepreneurs, Monica Martinez empties hundreds of live mealworms, each about 2 inches long, into a plastic container. She uses chopsticks to pull out dead ones before pouring the squirming critters on a tray and sliding them into an oven. Martinez started Don Bugito PreHispanic Snackeria to entice American consumers with treats inspired by popular snacks in her native Mexico. Among her specialties are spicy superworms and chocolate-covered, salted crickets. “The idea is to offer another type of protein into the food market,� said
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Martinez, an artist and industrial designer who launched Don Bugito as a street food project in 2011. “The biggest job that we have to do is to try to get more people to try our foods.� Don Bugito snacks are sold online or at a La Cocina kiosk in San Francisco’s Ferry Building, where retail workers recently offered free samples of chocolate-covered crickets and spicy superworms. “No!� said a young boy when asked to try one. But more adventurous eaters gave them a try. “It doesn’t really taste like a bug. It tastes like crunchy spices,� said Leslie Foreman, who works at a medical technology firm, after sampling a chili-lime cricket. “I’m not sure this is going to be my everyday snack, but I think it’s fun and I think it’s cool.� Across San Francisco Bay inside at a kitchen in Berkeley, Megan Miller and her assistants shape clumps of orange-ginger cookie dough, carefully arrange them up on a tray and slip them in an oven. The key ingredient: flour made from groundup crickets. Miller’s startup, Bitty Foods, sells its cricket-based cookies and baked goods online and at upscale grocery stores. Many of its customers are moms looking for a healthy snack for their children. “We like to say our cookies have twice the protein and half the sugar of a regular cookie,� said Miller, a former journalist and tech entrepreneur. Miller said insects have a “branding problem,� so she’s trying to change people’s minds and palates by mixing them into familiar foods in attractive packaging. “We’re going to see people start trying insects in a powdered form—incorporated into foods so they’re invisible— before people are going to make the leap to eating whole insects,� Miller said. Big Cricket Farms, one of only a handful of North American companies produc-
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Daniel Imrie-Situnayake inspects an experimental habitat for banded crickets in Oakland, Calif.
We’re constantly slammed by orders. We simply can’t keep up. Kevin Bachhuber, CEO, Big Cricket Farms ing crickets for human consumption, is struggling to meet fast-growing demand for the chirping insects, said CEO Kevin Bachhuber, who launched the warehouse farm in Youngstown, Ohio, last year after getting his first taste of bugs in Thailand. Bachhuber’s startup currently produces about 8,000 pounds of crickets a month. He hopes to increase capacity to 25,000 pounds per month, but still doesn’t think that will be enough to meet demand from restaurants and health food makers. “We’re constantly slammed by orders. We simply can’t keep up,� said Bachhuber, a Wisconsin native who’s had a long interest in urban farming. “The speed at which people have been willing to eat bugs is crazy. It’s cool.� Oakland-based Tiny Farms is trying to address supply crunch by developing more efficient ways to mass-produce crickets and other bugs. It eventually wants to create a large network of insect farms to supply food makers such as Don Bugito and Bitty Foods. “The goal is basically to make it easier and cheaper to produce industrial-scale volumes of insects that can be used in food products,� said Daniel Imrie-Situnayake, a software engineer turned entopreneur. “We’re really just scraping the surface in terms of figuring out what the potential is for insects to be part of our food system.� From The Associated Press
Epoch Taste
D7 April 17–23, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com SWILL, SIP, & SWIG
Lettie Teague Dresses Down Wine Snobs By  Michele Kayal Attention oenophiles! Get ready for a dressing down. Wine writer Lettie Teague—known for her blunt, chatty style that demystifies the cult of the grape without diluting its allure— has once again taken issue with highfalutin attitudes about the wine world. In her new book, “Wine in Words,� the Wall Street Journal wine columnist offers beginners a primer on the basics of acidity and structure, and gives wine snobs a piece of her mind. In quick-reading essays akin to small sips, Teague redeems chablis, decries “wine charms,� and wonders aloud about the future of wine in the state that spawned Snookie (hint: New Jersey.) We spoke with Teague about the evolution and the future of wine in America—and about her wine drinking pet peeves.
of people had access to sellers and traveled to Europe. The norm was jug wine. Now, there’s so much to know, but also the desire to know and a feeling like you should kind of know. Now that the United States is the No. 1 wine consuming country in the world—not per capita, but in sheer consumption numbers—that’s a tremendous leap. Who would have thought that was possible 25 years ago?
ing to my 26-year-old step-daughter. ... She doesn’t want to know too much, but wants to know what cabernet tastes like versus merlot. There’s an interest in forming their own opinions and not following critics. They’re really interested in the opinions of their friends. It’s much more peer referenced. Q: Are they drinking wine? A: Yes. Not expensive wine. And it’s not the wine that middle-aged wine drinkers are drinking. They’re turning to wine from other countries—Argentina, Chile— because of the entry point and the accessibility.
Q: So now we’re the biggest consumer of wine, but what is our impact on wine culture? AP PHOTO/RIZZOLI
Q: What’s the deal with moscato? What was it before hip-hop singer Drake gave it the shout out?
A: The openness. Because we didn’t start with a wine culture, we’re so much more open. This is what producers from Spain and France and Italy say. In one way, it’s complicated because we’re like 50 different countries. But in terms of embracing wines, it’s easier than in their own Q: The book is full of useful “Wine in Words� by Lettie country. There, people information as well as witty and Teague. have a regional bias that somewhat snarky observations doesn’t exist here. We about phenomena like wine charms and have a tremendous advantage in that. winery tasting rooms. What is your No. 1 wine drinking pet peeve? Q: How do American wines fit into our drinking habits? A: Oh, that’s hard. I think it’s people who talk about the wines that they’ve had. It’s A: We have a huge California bias. Which is like the wine equivalent of a slide show. You the safety factor. It’s very safe to drink a wine hold people hostage. You can’t taste it. It’s from California. Now there’s so much good like you’re just there to bear witness to their wine, wines actually being taken seriously experience. It’s not very welcoming. It’s brag- from Long Island and the Finger Lakes. It ging. In the book, I wrote about collectors. seems like it took forever and then it hapJust random people who have a lot of wine pened all at once. Even five years ago that will come up and tell me about their wine. wasn’t true. Which makes me think maybe Do you have a bank statement I can look people will one day take New Jersey wine at, too? There’s nothing that says, ‘I want seriously. The big challenge for American to make a connection.’ And that’s what it wine in general is price. You can get terrific should be about. Spanish wines for $7 a bottle. Unfortunately, we just can’t compete. It’s the price of real Q: How have Americans evolved in our rela- estate and labor. That’s the biggest obstacle to tionship to wine? I grew up in a house of Americans drinking American wine: price. jug wine. Q: What’s the impact of millennials? A: So did I. It was purely a beverage then. There was almost no complexity to anyone’s A: They’ve got the huge cocktail culture experience of wine. A very small minority that’s competing with wine. I was just talk-
A: Last year it was growing at an absurd pace, some insane double-digit growth. Moscato had a moment. Like any trend, I don’t think it’s sustainable. It was that cheap simple stuff that everyone drank. And then of course there’s the real moscato from Piedmont, which is a completely lovely wine. Q: What’s the next moscato? A: It would have to be something made in large quantities. Inexpensive red blends. I see no end to those wines. They are in the $7 to $10 category. And they tend to be fruity and accessibly styled.
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Q: What’s the average level of wine knowledge in the U.S.? A: People know basic wine names. People know that malbec is from Argentina. There’s much more awareness of wine. I don’t know if that translates into education. Wine is still a specialized thing. The fact that we’re the No. 1 consuming nation has to say something about people being interested in learning more. And the fact that people are tasting more broadly—that some obscure Spanish wine is doing really well or that people are drinking large quantities of (the white Argentine wine) torrontes—that there’s so much openness. I’ve got to believe there’s a groundswell of a more enlightened drinker in America. This interview was edited for clarity and length. From The Associated Press
Rye Is Rising AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
By Michelle Locke Fans of brown spirits are taking a rye approach to imbibing. Hot on the heels of the bourbon boom, more ryes are appearing on shelves as consumers explore whiskey’s spicier, fruitier side. “People are rediscovering rye whisky and its unique flavor,� said Dan Tullio, master ambassador for Canadian whisky for Beam Suntory, which just launched its Alberta Rye Dark Batch Whisky. Dark Batch actually capitalizes on two trends: At the same time American drinkers are developing a taste for rye, they also have become increasingly interested in Canadian whisky (which Canadians — like Scots — spell without the “e’’). Alberta Rye Dark Batch, made at Alberta Distillers, the largest producer of 100 percent rye whisky in North America, is a blend of 91 percent rye, 8 percent bourbon and 1 percent sherry for smoothness. A little bit lighter and spicier tasting than bourbon, rye whiskey is made, obviously, from rye, a grass related to wheat. Where bourbon has to be made from at least 51 percent corn, rye must be at least 51 percent rye. Both rye and bourbon must be aged in charred new American oak barrels, and a rye that’s been aged at least two years can be labeled as “straight rye� whiskey. Rye whiskey typically also contains some corn and malted barley. And consumers are drinking it up. Rye sales were up 40 percent by volume, to 520,000 cases, in 2014, according to the U.S. Distilled Spirits Council. The taste for rye has tracked the growth in the bourbon market, particularly as consumers gravitate toward bourbons with a higher rye content, such as Four Roses and Bulleit (both brands also offer true rye whiskeys). In fact, the growing interest in rye has triggered a flood of new bottles coming to market, including the cultishly popular Jefferson’s Rye and Angel’s Envy, as well as more common Jim Beam
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Bottles of rye whisky.
Green Label and Knob Creek. At BevMo!, a California-based chain specializing in wine and spirits, ryes clearly are on an upswing, said Ted Carmon, BevMo! category manager for spirits. “Bourbon is doing extremely well, but rye is just a new vein for the whiskey drinker.� He traces the trend to the interest in recreating pre-Prohibition era cocktails, many of which are rye-based. “Quite honestly, the quality of rye has improved a lot over the years, so it’s a lot of fun for the mixology world to play with quality whiskey,� he said. And who’s drinking all this rye (and all those cocktails)? A lot of the demand is coming from brown-spirits loving millennials, who’ve come to rye by way of their interest in classic cocktails, said Brian Bowden, vice president of spirits, beer, tobacco, and beverages for BevMo! “With the growing interest in high-qual-
ity spirits and a surge in contemporary cocktail culture, bartenders and curious drinkers alike are now looking for those bigger, fuller flavors in rye whiskey,� said Adam Harris, Knob Creek bourbon ambassador. The rules for rye are different in Canada than in the United States. In Canada, a whiskey can be labeled rye even if the percentage of rye in the blend is small. “Rye stands out,� said Mark Bylok, author of the recently released “The Whisky Cabinet.� ‘’People started tasting rye and enjoying it, they wanted that character and spiciness.� But ryes today “are just in their infancy,� he points out. The next big thing is going to be long-aged ryes. “You’re going to see the 15- to 25-year-old ryes coming out and they’re going to be absolutely fantastic.� From The Associated Press
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Mastering the Simple Vinaigrette to Deliver Maximum Flavor
RECIPE
Basic Vinaigrette Preparation time: 5 minutes Makes 1 cup 9 1/4 cup acid (see choices below) 9 2 teaspoons kosher salt 9 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 9 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper 9 3/4 cup oil In a 1-cup measuring cup or screw-top jar, combine the acid, salt, mustard, and pepper. Whisk (or cover and shake if using a jar) until the salt is dissolved. Add the oil in a steam while whisking (or add the oil all at once and shake if using a jar). Store in the refrigerator. Let the vinaigrette come to room temperature before using.
By Sara Moulton Most people reach for prepared salad dressings because on busy weeknights they just can’t handle the thought of whipping up yet something else. Because after cooking a main course and some sides and tossing together a salad, who has the time and energy to make a dressing? I get it. It’s convenient. But homemade dressings are so much better, they really are worth the trouble. Homemade dressings not only are fresher and taste better, they also are better for you. The good news is that making dressing doesn’t have to be a daily chore. In just five minutes you can prep one big batch of dressing for the entire week. So let’s walk through the basics of vinaigrettes. The standard recipe for a vinegar-based dressing calls for a 3-to-1 ratio of oil to vinegar (or other acid). But really that’s just a starting point. Years ago when I was teaching a class in basic techniques, I tested the validity of that ratio by asking my students to make dressings of their own. All of them used olive oil, but each one picked a different acid. That was an eye-opener! Three tablespoons of oil swamped rice vinegar, but barely balanced the acidity of sherry vinegar. Bottom line: The acid content in vinegars can vary widely, so you’ll want to adjust for that. What about the oil? Mostly, I opt for good quality extra-virgin olive oil. You want to break out the good stuff because you’re really going to taste it in a dressing. But if you don’t like the taste of olive oil, you can use an oil with a more neutral flavor, such as grapeseed (though it’s pricey). Safflower and sunflower are less expensive and also are perfectly acceptable. Nut oils are another way to go, including
Nutrition information per tablespoon: 90 calories; 90 calories from fat (100 percent of total calories); 10 g fat (1.5 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 0 g carbohydrate; 0 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 0 g protein; 260 mg sodium. Acid Suggestions (listed from most to least acidic): 9 Sherry vinegar 9 Red wine vinegar 9 Balsamic vinegar 9 White wine and Champagne vinegars 9 Cider vinegar 9 Rice vinegar walnut and hazelnut, as well as two of my favorites: pistachio and pumpkinseed. They pair up very well with fruit vinegars, such as raspberry. What are the best ways to mix a vinaigrette? The easiest include measuring and mixing it in a glass measuring cup, shaking it in a jar (an almost empty mustard jar is a good choice), or briefly whizzing it up in a blender. And I say briefly about the blender because too much whizzing may make olive oil taste bitter. Start with the acid, salt and pepper, and mix them until the salt is dissolved. Then, if you’re using a measuring cup, add the oil slowly in a stream, whisking until it’s incorporated. If you’re mixing it in a jar, add all of the oil and shake. If you’re using a blender, add the oil and pulse until well combined. A vinaigrette is a temporary emulsion, meaning that when you whisk or shake it, the oil and vinegar will combine long enough to coat your salad. Eventually, though, these components will separate again. You can make the dressing stay together longer by adding
an emulsifier, such as mustard or an egg. I prefer mustard, not only because of its power to emulsify, but because I really like its taste. Tasty add-ins? Your choice: minced shallots (which contribute a pleasantly sweet crunch), a minced clove of garlic, chopped fresh herbs, a bit of soy sauce or miso, crumbled cheese, grated fresh citrus zest, or capers. Want to cut down the vinaigrette’s calorie count? Cut down the amount of oil. Depending on my mood, I’ll swap in chicken broth, puréed fresh tomato or roasted red pepper, or puréed (very ripe) pear, all of which contribute flavor and body. Sugar, too, can replace oil, which is why relatively sweet balsamic vinegar requires relatively less oil for balance in a vinaigrette. But I ‘m not a fan of sugar in dressings. We already eat way too much. By the way, there’s no reason to confine vinaigrettes to the salad bar. They can perk up grilled vegetables, chicken, or steak, and they partner up beautifully with fish.
9 Raspberry vinegar 9 Fresh lemon, lime, orange or grapefruit juice Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.”
From The Associated Press
Gussy Up Your Salad by Breaking It Down and Jarring It Up By Elizabeth Karmel Too often, a salad is served out of obligation. We feel it is something we have to do to make the meal complete, but really don’t want to. And too often that’s why the salads we serve aren’t all that great. We don’t really care about them. Thing is, I love a well-made salad, and for me it is no obligation to either serve or eat one. This salad, for example, a seven-layer creation was built in a canning jar. I love how they look. I love how they taste. I even like the process of assembling them. It’s basically a dressed-up version of a layered salad “casserole” that is popular in the South. When I was growing up in North Carolina, my friend Laura introduced the casserole-style salad to our potluck circle. It was made with layers of crunchy iceberg lettuce, canned baby peas and chopped red onion, then topped with crumbled bacon—all set into a 9-by-13-inch glass casserole dish. A few years ago, I remembered that salad, how refreshing and crunchy it was while being just rich and salty enough to be satisfying. So I decided to remake it for a dinner party. I dressed up the ingredients, but kept the flavors of Laura’s salad. The biggest difference was my presentation. I served it in individual pint-size Mason jars. Not only was it too cute for words, but you can make it up to two days in advance and not lose anything in quality. Of course, the proof is in the eating, and you should have seen my guests! You would have thought it was a chocolate dessert. I love making this salad all spring and summer for casual cookouts and picnics. I prefer using baby iceberg lettuce, which is
soft and buttery, more like Boston lettuce than mature iceberg. But you can use your favorite lettuce. I layer thawed frozen peas, shallots, and celery on top of the lettuce before sealing it with the dressing and topping with a sprinkle of crispy pancetta. You could add other “dry” vegetables, such as carrots, sliced radishes, English cucumbers, and more. Any vegetables that are crunchy and not too wet or too acidic will work. If you want to add tomatoes, slice and add to the top of the salad just before serving. Also great to add are nuts, seeds, dried fruit, and croutons. From The Associated Press
RECIPE
SEVEN-LAYER MASON JAR SALADS You will need four pint-size wide-mouth canning jars for this recipe. Preparation time: 15 minutes Servings: 4 9 1 head iceberg lettuce, or baby iceberg lettuce, chopped 9 2 shallots, cut into thin rings 9 10-ounce package frozen green peas, thawed and drained 9 1 cup thinly sliced celery 9 1/2 cup light mayonnaise 9 2 scallions, chopped 9 1 tablespoon cider vinegar 9 1 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary 9 4 ounces of diced pancetta, cooked until just crisp
9 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese In the bottom of each Mason jar, layer a quarter of the lettuce, then the shallots, peas, and celery, in that order. In a small bowl, mix together the mayonnaise, scallions, vinegar and rosemary, then spread a quarter of it over each salad. Finish each salad with the crisped pancetta and Parmesan cheese. Can be covered and refrigerated for up to 48 hours. If refrigerated, let sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Nutrition information per serving: 350 calories; 210 calories from fat (60 percent of total calories); 24 g fat (8 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 40 mg cholesterol; 21 g carbohydrate; 6 g fiber; 8 g sugar; 15 g protein; 880 mg sodium. Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern foods expert. She is the chef and pitmaster at online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com and author of three books, including “Taming the Flame.”
Taste Asia
D9 April 17–23, 2015
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Sushi Zen continued from D1 “People are always concerned which place has what type of plankton, if the fish ate a lot of plankton or not,” Suzuki said. Signs of Spring In the Edo era, poet Yamaguchi Sodo (1642– 1716), a contemporary of Basho, wrote a haiku about the harbingers of spring: “Before my eyes the green-leaved hills, the small cuckoo, and the first bonito.” Much ado is made about hatsu-katsuo (the first bonito) as bringer of good luck in the new year. Riding on the warmer northward currents, these fish are leaner, but fatten up as they eat their way around the island. When they return southward later in the year, their flesh is rich and fatty. In restaurants, they are then referred to as modorikatsuo (modori means “to return”). How lean or fatty the fish should be is entirely a personal preference. “Most American people, they say, ‘It’s like butter. Ah, to me, it’s too rich,” Suzuki laughed. “In Japan, old men my age, they don’t like to eat a lot of fat. But the young generation welcomes that.” Sushi Zen is one of a handful of restaurants in the city that offers an extensive menu of seasonal fish with varying textures, flavors, and fat content for different palates—along-
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enhances the vinegar flavor. It’s also the best time to try wild amberjack (hiramasa), at its peak of flavor. There’s also shellfish: sweet botan shrimp (botan means peony) has just come in. Surf clams have also recently arrived; they boast a texture that is decided un-clam-like, more like scallop or abalone. These will be offered for about another couple of months, until Suzuki brings in the summer’s best catch.
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CICI’S FOOD PARADISE
Delicious Fried Rice With Half the Calories? PETR SVAB/EPOCH TIMES
By CiCi Li While browsing chef Mie Okuda’s cookbook “Thinking of You,” I found an interesting recipe for Shirataki Fried Rice. It is supposed to taste like fried rice but with only half of the calories. It piqued my curiosity. Could this recipe really taste as delicious as regular fried rice? Fried rice is a staple dish in Chinese families. It consists of steamed rice stir-fried in a wok, often mixed with meat, vegetables, and eggs. The secret in making delicious fried rice is to use leftover rice because it has a harder texture so it’s easier to separate the grains from one another. In a previous article, we introduced a miracle ingredient, shirataki noodles. It has no calories but has a lot of soluble fiber. It makes you feel full, boosts your energy level, and speeds up your metabolism. I met up with Okuda and we started
preparing the ingredients as usual in a cheerful atmosphere. All of a sudden, she lifted up her $2,000 Japanese handmade knife and stared at it with her keen eyes, so I leaned forward and stared at it, too. She pointed out that her knife wasn’t as sharp today. Yep, that’s how much chefs love their knives. We continued with the chopping, mixing, seasoning, cooking, and finally came the moment of truth! As I took a spoonful of the shirataki fried rice into my mouth, I closed my eyes and said “Mmm. ...” It was shockingly delicious! It felt like a comfort food and was very homey. It tasted like a lighter version of risotto. It was moist and soft, and with some crunchiness from the vegetables. If this was diet food then I could eat it all day long. So could shirataki fried rice with only half of the calories of regular fried rice be as delicious as regular fried rice? Absolutely!
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RECIPE
Shirataki Fried Rice Prep time and cooking time: 20 minutes Makes 2 servings / 1 package shirataki noodles / 1 cup rice, steamed / 1/2 an onion, chopped / 2 mushrooms, chopped / 1/4 green bell pepper, chopped / 1/4 red bell pepper, chopped / 1/4 chicken breast, minced / 1 egg, beaten / 2 tablespoons of olive oil / 1 teaspoon of soy sauce
/ Pinch of salt / Pinch of pepper
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Blanch shirataki noodles for 1 minute and drain. Chop them into rice grainsized pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan, then scramble eggs. Once done, put the egg in a bowl and set aside. In the same frying pan add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and add the chicken and then add vegetables, and sauté everything for 2 minutes. Add shirataki noodles and rice to the frying pan and lightly press the rice with the bottom of a ladle to break it up and keep it from sticking together. Add scrambled egg, salt, pepper, soy sauce, and mix everything well.
(Recipe adapted from “Thinking of You” by Mie Okuda, Momokawa Culinary Arts, 2014) CiCi Li is the presenter of “CiCi’s Food Paradise” on NTD Television. She’s also a television producer, food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventure and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise” at CiCiLi.tv.
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Q&A with
Cathy Erway On Stinky Tofu, Q Foods, and Iconic Taiwanese Dishes By Rowena Tsai Epoch Times Staff
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We had the chance to sit down with Cathy Erway, the author of the recently released “The Food of Taiwan” at her apartment on April 9. As we indulged in conversation about all things Taiwan, she made us her favorite Taiwanese dish: three cup chicken, or san bei ji—a flavorful, salty, and savory braised chicken dish with a hint of sweetness. Three cups, in this case, indicates the equal parts of soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice vinegar used in the dish. For more on the origins of Taiwanese cuisine, the word Q, and stinky tofu, read on! Epoch Times: Let’s talk about Taiwanese cuisine. What are some iconic Taiwanese dishes?
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Cathy Erway: Beef noodle soup (niu rou mian) is a more recent favorite. Taiwanese three cup chicken (san be ji) has Hakka influences. Dan zai noodle soup is a real great example of an old-fashioned, rustic kind of cuisine. And minced meat over rice (ru rou fan). Epoch Times: What are some of the influences that have made Taiwanese cuisine what it is today? Ms. Erway: It’s a combination of the earlier settlers from Fujian [in China], a very seafood-based cuisine that is more simple. And then there’s the Hakka influence, which is all about awful, rough cuts, and dried seafoods, like dried squid, because they’re traditionally in mountainous terrains where they were pushed into less desirable areas for farming. A big influence more recently is all the mainland arrival and immigrants at the end of the ‘40s. With it, you get a whole mingling of mainland Chinese cuisines among themselves, as well as among the Taiwanese cuisines already here. For example, with the beef noodle soup, you see Sichuan influences and northern style noodles, which a lot of the times it’s this handmade shredded pulled noodle. Epoch Times: What about the indigenous cuisine? Ms. Erway: I think that indigenous cuisine is seen in ingredients. They have these dragon beard ferns and these wild vegetables that are coveted nowadays by all kinds of Taiwanese. You see wild vegetables and cool herbs. There are some kind of more fun and rustic preparations for indigenous cuisines, like the bamboo sticky rice. Epoch Times: That is so true, there are so many vegetables that are native to Taiwan that you can’t find anywhere else in the world. Ms. Erway: That’s what’s wonderful about it. Taiwan is such a place that is dependent on its terroir. You’re never going to get an exact replica over here in New York, but you can substitute with what is in season and awesome. Like strawberry in June instead of mango in your shaved ice! Shaved ice, that’s another hallmark.
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Epoch Times: Speaking of shaved ice, some toppings like mochi have been described as Q. Could you tell us more about Q?
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Ms. Erway: This is a word that is describing a coveted texture. It’s hard to describe. It’s a little bit bouncy, a little bit firm, and not too soft. We wouldn’t call it “tender,” which is, I guess, one of the most coveted textures in Western cuisine. So it’s a little different. It’s fun. I definitely get the enjoyable nature of that texture. I heard this Taiwanese TV chef who tried to describe it as something like it bounces from your teeth, or bounces on the teeth.
Cathy Erway, author of “The Food of Taiwan.”
Epoch Times: What are some examples of Q foods? Ms. Erway: Tapioca pearls is a good example. The skin of a ba wan (meatball mochi) is also a little jelly like. Epoch Times: What is stinky tofu and what do you do with it? Ms. Erway: Stinky tofu is a type of fermented tofu dish that has a really pungent odor. You eat it [laughs].
There is something irresistible about stinky tofu. The stinkier the better. Cathy Erway, author, ‘The Food of Taiwan’
Epoch Times: It is my favorite. I love it. The smellier the better. Ms. Erway: Right, there is something irresistible about stinky tofu. The stinkier the better, just kind of like cheese nerds would be all about that pungency and they can’t get enough of it so you build up this tolerance. Stinky tofu is very similar to cheese. Making tofu is very similar to cheese. You separate the curd, you strain it, you solidify it, and, finally, you age it. The flavor comes down to how long it’s been fermenting and what you put in the fermenting broth or brine. Epoch Times: What are some different ways stinky tofu is prepared? Ms. Erway: How it’s prepared now is often fried as a street snack. You can also get blocks and make a stir fry with softer cubes. A really popular way nowadays is ma la stinky tofu. It’s in this braise and bath of really Sichuan-influenced fiery, chile oil. Epoch Times: Tell us about some of the people you learned cooking from in Taiwan. Ms. Erway: I did a lot of dabbling around, but I think that there were a lot of people who helped me explore the best foods. These were friends of friends. When I was there first studying abroad for college, I would just piggy pack off of my friends and their parents. I got to go to their homes and see what their grandmas were making. I learned a lot from grandmas in general. When I went back to travel for “The Food of Taiwan,” my photographer’s family, some aunts and uncles, were there so we would go to their houses and I would try to pick up anything I could learn from them. We randomly met some friends too who showed us around and let us get into some chef’s business and talk to them. It was kind of a motley crew, a total mix of people. People are so nice they would know someone who knew someone and it just escalated form there. Epoch Times: Of the recipes in the book, which would you recommend for timepressed New Yorkers? Ms. Erway: San bei ji, Hakka stir fry, and most of the stir fries. Noodles can be quick if you make a lot of broth. Have a weekend project to make some broth and you can throw together quick noodle meals throughout the week. Bone broth is huge now, so just make some bone broth and mix in some veggies and noodles and what have you. Epoch Times: Finally, could you tell us your favorite Taiwanese dish? Ms. Erway: I would say san bei ji. Honestly, it’s just my palate. I like the saltiness, I like the little bit of the sweetness, the little bit of spiciness. I guess I’m a fan of Hakka flavors and basil.
Young diners in Taiwan.
Taste Asia
D11 April 17–23, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com REVIEW
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the modern
‘The Food of Taiwan’ by Cathy Erway By Channaly Philipp Epoch Times Sta Books about the cuisine of Taiwan, in English, rarely come by. That alone would make Cathy Erway’s new book, “The Food of Taiwan,â€? worth exploring. It’s safe to say that eating is somewhat of a national pastime in Taiwan. Erway, who inherited Taiwanese tastebuds from her mother, makes a worthy guide to explore the myriad flavors, providing context along the way, especially regarding culinary influences from the past. For example, Erway explains how beef noodle soup (niu rou mian), considered Taiwan’s national dish, contains Sichuan influences—chili bean sauce and Sichuan peppercorns— and is believed to have been created in the military villages that were set up to accommodate mainlanders starting in 1947–1949. When cooking from the book, I looked mostly for recipes that required little handson time, and was amply rewarded for my own laziness (or efficiency, depending on who you ask). For my first round of cooking, I didn’t have any Taiwanese ingredients at home and had no time for a trip to Chinatown. Still, it was amazing to see
what flavors I could cook up without specialized ingredients. The Steamed Eggplant was ready in about 15 minutes. The garnishes—minced garlic, scallions, and chilies—along with a drizzle of soy sauce really makes this dish. It’s healthy, tasty, and quick. Then I eyed the pan-fried salmon with a typical Taiwanese topping: cilantro and crushed peanut powder. That was also incredibly easy to whip up in a short time, and delicious, with cilantro adding a refreshing herbal note to the more familiar peanut. For the Red-Braised Braised Pork Belly, I did have to go on a shopping run for rice wine. The local liquor shop guys seemed a bit appalled at my request. “You aren’t going to drink that, are you?� Once they understood it was for cooking, they nodded and headed to the basement, where they kept bottles of rice wine specifically for Taiwanese customers, as it turns out. The only other item I had to make a special trip for was dark soy sauce, from a Chinese super-
market. The hands-on time was beautifully minimal—it was quick work to cut up the pork belly and caramelize it with some aromatics before braising it for over an hour. The result: tender, deeply fragrant, savory-sweet amber pieces of pork belly that were quickly decimated by hungry eaters. This dish worked well served with a side of greens like sautĂŠed bok choy. There’s plenty to explore in “The Food of Taiwanâ€?—plenty of delicious flavors and varied textures, but just as worthwhile is Erway’s commentary, which provides rich context to understand where food in Taiwan has been and to ponder where it might be headed. “The Food of Taiwan: Recipes From the Beautiful Islandâ€? by Cathy Erway, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30.
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RECIPE
Three Cup Chicken
< 12-15 whole cloves garlic
The eponymous â&#x20AC;&#x153;cupsâ&#x20AC;? in this recipeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name denote equal parts soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice vinegar. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a potent, salty and savory braised chicken dish with these ingredients alone, but the dish really gets its signature from the sheer volume of garlic cloves, thick pieces of ginger, and fresh basil leaves for flavor. This recipeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name might underscore the fact that most recipes were passed orally in Taiwan, rather than written, until recent generations. After one taste of it prepared elsewhere, it is quite irresistible to try recreating at home. This dish bears similarities with Hakka-style preparations and red-braised styles of cooking, but its use of basil is refreshingly distinct. It has been enjoyed in Taiwan as a quintessential Taiwanese dish for quite some time. Makes 4 to 6 servings < 3/4 cup sesame oil < 1 (3-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into 12 to 15 thick discs
< 4 whole scallions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces < 2 pounds bone-in chicken legs, thighs and wings, cut into roughly 2-inch pieces < 2 to 3 small, fresh red chilies, halved or sliced < 1 cup rice wine < 1 cup light soy sauce < 2 tablespoons sugar < 2 cups packed fresh Thai basil leaves Heat the oil in a large skillet or wok over medium-high heat. Add the ginger, garlic, scallions, and chilies, and cook until just fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chicken pieces and lightly brown, stirring occasionally, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the rice wine and soy sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until the chicken pieces are cooked through and the sauce has slightly reduced, about 15 minutes. Stir in the sugar until just dissolved. Remove from the heat and stir in the basil. Serve immediately.
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Taste Asia www.TheEpochTimes.com Taiwan continued from D11 PETE LEE, 2015. USED BY PERMISSION OF HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT PUBLISHING COMPANY.
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RECIPE
Steamed Eggplant With Garlic and Chilies
212-473-2233 Hours: Sunday - Thursday 11:30 am ~ 2:00 am Friday - Saturday 11:30 am ~ 4:00 am
Long, tender chunks of Asian eggplant are absolutely delightful when steamed through. Their flesh cooks to a custardlike softness, without absorbing too much oil like they do when cooked in a pan. This is a typical Taiwanese preparation thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not for those averse to strong flavor: lots of fresh garlic and mildly hot fresh red chilies are sprinkled liberally on the steamed eggplant as an attractive and very tasty garnish.
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Makes about 2 servings @ 2 long slender Asian eggplants, about 1 pound
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@ 1/4 teaspoon salt @ 4 garlic cloves, minced @ 4 to 6 small fresh red chilies, thinly sliced @ 2 tablespoons light soy sauce Prepare a large bamboo steamer with boiling water underneath. Trim the ends from the eggplant and cut into halves lengthwise. Sprinkle with the salt and arrange in the steamer. Cover the steamer and let cook until the eggplants feel soft to the touch all around, 8 to 10 minutes. Arrange the eggplant skin-side down on a serving dish. Sprinkle the garlic and chilies over each piece followed by a drizzle of the soy sauce, and serve immediately.
PETE LEE, 2015. USED BY PERMISSION OF HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT PUBLISHING COMPANY.
RECIPE
Red-Braised Pork Belly
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Who needs bacon when pork belly can be cut to sizable chunks, with its fat rendered to gelatinous layers in between tender meat all stained with a savory, soy sauceâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;based broth? This Taiwanese preparation is often found as an addition to a large, multicourse meal, as itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too rich and potently flavored without plenty of contrasting sides. Still, it is a highlight of the table whenever served. The liberal use of the humble, tough cut of pork belly may be Hakka-inspired, yet it is red-braised in the fashion associated most closely with Hunanese home-style cooking. All told, a true Taiwanese specialty. Makes 4 to 6 small servings @ 1 pound pork belly @ 2 tablespoons vegetable or peanut oil @ 2 whole scallions, trimmed and coarsely chopped @ 4 garlic cloves, smashed @ 4 to 6 thick discs peeled fresh ginger @ 1/2 cup packed brown sugar @ 1/4 cup rice wine @ 2 cups water @ 1/2 cup light soy sauce @ 1/4 cup dark soy sauce @ 1 teaspoon five-spice powder
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
Remove any bone and cut the pork belly into thick pieces about 1 1/2 to 2 inches long.
Heat the oil in a large saucepan or wok over mediumhigh heat. Arrange the pork belly pieces in a single layer in the pan so that each piece has direct contact with the bottom of the pan. Cook without turning until just lightly browned on one side, about 30 seconds. Flip the pieces over and brown on the opposite sides for just 1 to 2 minutes more. Remove from the pan and set aside. To the same pan, add the scallions, garlic, and ginger and stir
until just sizzling and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the sugar and cook, stirring, until bubbling, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the rice wine and bring just to a boil, stirring to incorporate the sugar. Add the water, light and dark soy sauces, and the five-spice powder and return to a boil. Return the pork belly pieces to the pan. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Cover and cook for until the pork is very tender and red stained, at least 1 hour, preferably 2 to 3 hours.
(Recipes from â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Food of Taiwan: Recipes From the Beautiful Islandâ&#x20AC;? by Cathy Erway, Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2015, $30)