Stalking the
White Asparagus on
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We dare you to give this a poke! A runny egg adds comfort to the Pork Belly Hash dish.
AN ARTIST’S ODE to the Season’s Bounty
By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
W
hen a dish proclaims itself a Welsh rarebit but comes to the table looking like a bird’s nest complete with an egg, you know you’re about to have an exciting meal. At Fair Weather Bushwick, chef John Creger channels his artist’s sensibility to create dishes that sing the merits of local seasonal ingredients while presenting familiar flavors in unexpected ways. See Fair Weather on D2
Shrimp and Grits with a twist: It’s got an addictive honey chipotle sauce.
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 April 22–28, 2016
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Chilled Pea Soup with crispy prosciutto and pea shoots.
AN ARTIST’S ODE to the Season’s Bounty Fair Weather continued from D1
M
IC
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Rosenkran’s Farm Beef Short Ribs with polenta, smoked gouda, and oregano.
The Welsh rarebit dish, or Welsh rabbit as it is also called, for example, was the first course of a recent tasting menu by Creger. It was a deconstructed version of the British dish, with a small potato that he cooked sous-vide for two hours, resting among fried, shredded potato and resembling a bird’s egg. Underneath was an umami-loaded cheese sauce of Parmesan,
Fair Weather Bushwick
274 Wyckoff Ave. (between Gates Avenue & Linden Street) Bushwick, Brooklyn 347-305-3736 fairweatherbushwick.com Hours Lunch: Monday–Friday 11 a.m.–4 p.m. Dinner: Wednesday, Thursday, & Sunday 6 p.m–9 p.m. Friday & Saturday 6 p.m.–10 p.m. Brunch: Saturday & Sunday 9:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Tasting Menu Dinner: Tuesday 8 p.m. (approximately 2 hours; by reservation only)
This dish features three different versions of beets on one plate.
Pale Ale, and herb oil. A sprig of local Affilla Cress (a microgreen that tastes like sweet peas) completed it. Creger, who has worked at Artisanal and Le Cirque, was a rock musician before he started cooking full time. He also took up drawing for a while. Cooking was always the side gig that he thought would support his artistic endeavors. But when he moved to New York, hoping to further his musical career while working at local restaurants, he realized cooking could be as much of a creative outlet as his music. It’s no wonder then that a musical component is very much present in his creations. For the tasting menu, a 10-course meal served every Tuesday ($65, additional $30 with beer pairings), Creger puts on a music playlist that evolves along with the progression of the meal. At an early April dinner, the first few courses started off with bold flavors, matching the energy of the tunes. A cauliflower dish featured slow-roasted purple florets plated with a smear of “gremolata” purée, sprinkled with brown butter powder and tingling Bengal spice powder. Next came a bowl of frisée, with bits of smoked trout brightened by sherry vinaigrette and topped with grapes and capers. The medley of flavors was flawless. When the sunchoke velouté arrived, the music took a brighter, more upbeat turn, matching the lightness of the dish. Its nuttiness was enhanced by hazelnuts and coffee foam. As the meal progressed to the more filling dishes, the music became more mellow. Creger does it intentionally so that people can converse as they enjoy the heartier dishes. One of those dishes was pork belly, cooked sous-vide for 18 hours until soft and supple, and glazed with harissa maple. Its butteriness was cut by a subtle, lovely tartness in the accompanying quinoa. The quinoa, as it turned MICHAEL TULIPAN
Satur Farms Beet “Ravioli” with pesto-ricotta and spiced pepitas.
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com MICHAEL TULIPAN
MICHAEL TULIPAN
MICHAEL TULIPAN
MICHAEL TULIPAN
(Clockwise from top L) Barber’s Farm Cauliflower Textures with gremolata, brown butter powder, and Bengal spice powder. Brooklyn Smoked Trout with frisée, capers, grapes, and sherry vinaigrette. Diners sit at a communal table for the tasting menu. Potato Gnocchi with chanterelle mushrooms, black garlic, Meyer lemon, and gremolata.
out, was infused with coconut vinegar. Creger creates playful flavors with spices and the natural taste of the ingredients. He rarely uses butter, preferring to transform ingredients into different versions of themselves. A recent beet dish featured slices of pickled beets folded in half, with pesto-ricotta cheese inside, accompanied by beet caramel and dehydrated beet bits. At other times, he presents familiar dishes in a new form, like his take on clam chowder: a clam shell resting on small rocks, with potatobacon purée, crispy fried leeks, and trout roe sitting on top of the briny clam meat. A dessert of panna cotta marries vanilla and saffron. The panna cotta’s pudding-like texture turned out to be a fantastic complement, enlivened by a balsamic-poached fig and blood orange jelly. Creger plans to change the tasting menu every month or so, allowing him to be inspired by whatever produce is in season. He took up gardening about three years ago, and has come to appreciate the hard work it takes to grow vegetables. On the tasting menu, it’s not the name of the dish that comes first—it’s the farm from where the ingredients are sourced, to show support for the local farmers. “It’s about being true to what is supposed to be in season,” he said. For the spring, he’s excited to use the pea shoots that he grew in the backyard of the restaurant, for a creamy chilled pea soup with
crispy prosciutto. “It’s literally farm to table,” he said. He recently cooked up some horseradish that he planted on his girlfriend’s farm in New Jersey two years ago. He’s looking forward to showcasing more of the fruits of his labor this summer. Fair Weather Bushwick only recently started offering full service meals. Previously, it was a cafe. Owner Ebru Brun said she decided to convert Fair Weather into a restaurant this March because she saw the neighborhood lacked a place for the community to gather and enjoy themselves. She envisioned something like a “big house party,” where diners sit at communal tables, make new friends, and admire the works by local artists on display at the restaurant. Brun also recently launched a weekday lunch service, where Creger puts his spin on American comfort food, like a Pork Belly Hash with honey chipotle glaze, peppers, onions, potatoes, and runny egg ($12); and ‘Nduja Mac and Cheese, spreadable Italian pork sausage baked with rigatoni pasta, smoked gouda, and aged cheddar ($10). On weekends, Fair Weather takes brunch staples up a notch, like with the Avocado Hash Toast, smashed avocado on a potato cake, with radishes and chipotle aioli ($9); and the Churro Waffle, with Mexican spices like cloves, allspice, cinnamon, ginger, and orange zest, topped with blueberries and hazelnut butter ($10).
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Morton’s World Trade Center
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com Owner Ebru Brun with chef John Creger.
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF WINE DISCIPLES ENOTECA
stuff to eat and drink around town
ORGANIC AND BIODYNAMIC WINE TASTING AT WINE DISCIPLES
TREADWELL PARK BEER-HOISTING COMPETITION Craft beer hall Treadwell Park will be celebrating the 500th anniversary of Reinheitsgebot, the beer purity law passed in Germany, with German eats, tastings of the rare Radeberger Zwickel Pilsner, and a stein-hoisting competition with brewmaster Udo Schiedermair. The winner who defeats Schiedermair will have the honor of tapping the ceremonial keg of Radeberger Zwickel Bier and receive a Radeberger one-liter mug signed by Schiedermair himself. Saturday, April 23 Treadwell Park 1125 First Ave. treadwellpark.com
In honor of Earth Day, Wine Disciples is hosting a tasting consisting entirely of wines from organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards. Up to 50 wines will be available to taste while guests enjoy a selection of artisanal breads, cheese, cured meats, olives, and pickles. Wine representatives will be available to discuss the wines being poured. Saturday, April 23, 1 p.m.–4 p.m. Wine Disciples, 129 W. 29th St. winedisciplesenoteca.com/earthdaytasting
CASUAL WINE NIGHT AT UPHOLSTERY STORE: FOOD AND WINE
COURTESY OF THE MUSKET ROOM
ANZAC DAY AT THE MUSKET ROOM
The West Village restaurant Upholstery Store: Food and Wine is hosting a wine tasting featuring Solminer Wine, a winery in Santa Barbara, California. Attendees will get to sample wines, while Solminer Wine owners Anna and David Delaski discuss their organic farming and production processes. Restaurant staff will offer recommendations for food pairings. $40 for a flight, or $12 per glass.
Anzac Day honors the Australians and New Zealanders who fought in World War I. As a native Kiwi himself, Chef Matt Lambert is offering specials at his restaurant, The Musket Room, including classic New Zealand-style meat pies. During happy hour, Kiwi beers will be half-price.
Monday, April 25 7 p.m.–11:30 p.m. Upholstery Store: Food and Wine 713 Washington St. eventbrite.com (search “Casual Wine Night”)
Monday, April 25 5 p.m.–7 p.m. The Musket Room 265 Elizabeth St. themusketroom.com
COURTESY OF STANTON SOCIAL
COURTESY OF STANTON SOCIAL
MEATLESS MONDAY CLASS AT ONCE UPON A TART The SoHo bakery Once Upon A Tart is celebrating Meatless Monday with a hands-on cooking class. Chef and co-owner Alicia Walter will teach attendees how to make savory vegetable tarts: one with a flaky, all-butter crust and another with an herb-and-cheese crust, with your choice of vegetables for the fillings. $125 per person. Monday, April 25 7 p.m.–9 p.m. Once Upon A Tart 135 Sullivan St. onceuponatart.com CASEY FEEHAN
The Stanton Wedge Salad.
Sesame Grilled String Beans.
NEW SPRING MENU AT BEAUTY & ESSEX, STANTON SOCIAL Chef Chris Santos has created new dishes for his New York restaurants. At Beauty and Essex, there’s Maine Lobster Salad with cherry heirloom tomato, grilled watermelon, burrata, avocado vinaigrette, and balsamic; Braised Short Ribs with morel mushroom risotto, grilled asparagus, and pickled pearl onion gastrique; and Strawberry Cobbler with pistachio ice cream and pistachio tuille. At Stanton Social, try cheerful spring dishes like Lamb Osso Buco Arancini with Sicilian mint and parsley pesto; and the Stanton Wedge Salad with baby iceburg, spring asparagus, snap peas, micro radish, toasted hazelnuts, and buttermilk blue cheese. Beauty & Essex 146 Essex St. beautyandessex.com Stanton Social 99 Stanton St. stantonsocial.com
SPAM AT TRIBECA FAMILY FESTIVAL SPAM will make its first stop in Tribeca this Saturday as part of its SPAMERICAN! Tour. The SPAM brand is visiting 16 cities across America to thank fans for 79 years of support. The Tribeca Family Festival Street Fair will feature live chef demonstrations, arts and crafts pavilions, live music, and free screenings. Saturday, April 23 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Greenwich Street in Tribeca (North Moore to Chambers streets) tribecafilm.com/family
Savory tarts by chef Alicia Walter. COURTESY OF ALICIA WALTER
MIMOUNA, A JEWISH– MOROCCAN PASSOVER Enjoy an unconventional Passover dinner prepared in the Jewish–Moroccan tradition, hosted by chef Einat Admony (co-owner of Balaboosta, Bar Bolonat, Taim, and Combina). Held on the last day of Passover, the dinner will feature savory Moroccan pastries and savory bites from the Taim kitchen, along with drinks and ethnic music. $60 to $90 per person. Sunday, May 1 6 p.m.–10 p.m. Katra Lounge 217 Bowery For tickets, visit lbnyproductions.com
Chef Alicia Walter.
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF PAMPANO
PAMPANO SERVES MEXICAN BREAKFAST Pampano, the taqueria owned by tenor singer Plácido Domingo, is now serving breakfast Monday to Friday. Enjoy breakfast tacos like Nopal (cactus) with scrambled eggs, pico de gallo, and cotija cheese; Molletes, a Mexican baguette with refried pinto beans, Monterey Jack cheese, pico de gallo, and chorizo; or freshly baked Mexican pastries like polvorones, or shortbread cookies.
The New Umami Experience
Pampano Taqueria Crystal Pavilion Food Court 805 Third Ave. richardsandoval.com/pampano
Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces.
Pampano’s Mexican pastries.
COURTESY OF QUEENS TASTE COURTESY OF SUSHI SAMBA
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
Matcha and Raspberry dessert.
Burgers at last year’s Queens Taste event.
Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
We Now Deliver!
COURTESY OF SUSHI SAMBA
QUEENS TASTE Sample the best of Queens’s diverse and delicious eateries, all in one evening. Sixty restaurants will be participating at the event at the New York Hall of Science, including Joe’s Crab Shack, Redwood Deli, Karu Café, Bittersweet NYC, Mulan Restaurant, and more. Proceeds will benefit the Queens Economic Development Corporation. $125 per person. Tuesday, May 3 New York Hall of Science 47-01 111th St., Corona, Queens thequeenstaste.com
Soy “Cloud” dessert with graham crumbs, strawberry gelée, and mango passion sorbet.
SUSHI SAMBA NEW DESSERT MENU
SAKURA MATSURI AT KOSAKA Kosaka will celebrate Japan’s Cherry Blossom Festival, or Sakura Matsuri, with a Japanese picnic. Chef Yoshihiko Kousaka will teach attendees how to make chirashi sushi (rice bowl with mixed fish and vegetables) to bring to their next outing. Chirashi is typically eaten during festivals and special occasions. Sunday, May 1 1 p.m.–2:15 p.m. Kosaka, 220 W. 13th St. kosakanyc.com
Sushi Samba’s executive pastry chef, Michael Outlaw, has designed a new dessert menu, with creations like Matcha and Raspberry, with white chocolate mousse, matcha sponge cake, raspberry sorbet, and fresh raspberries; Pineapple-Coconut Tres Leches with tres leches cake, toasted almonds cream, pineapple confit, and pineapple-coconut sorbet; and S’mores with lucuma ice cream, Peruvian chocolate, shichimi-graham cracker (featuring a Japanese spice mix), and marshmallows.
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
Sushi Samba 87 Seventh Ave. South (corner of Barrow Street) sushisamba.com
CLAY WILLIAMS
FOOD BOOK FAIR
The Nuaa 1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) • 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
Lovers of food literature can expect panel discussions, cooking demos, workshops, film screenings, and literarythemed dinners at this two-day extravaganza. Discussion topics will include the intersection of food and fashion, how recipe development works, and the world of indie food magazines. Ticket prices vary by event.
THE NEW AMERICAN TRADITION
Sunday, May 1–Monday, May 2 Wythe Hotel 80 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn foodbookfair.com
Attendees at last year’s Food Book Fair.
REV CIANCIO/SCHWEID & SONS
BURGER WEEK In honor of National Burger Month, ground beef purveyor Schweid & Sons will host a weeklong burger celebration across popular New York restaurants, complete with a burger competition, beer and burger pairings, and a Marvel-themed burger party. Ticket prices vary by event. Sunday, May 1–Saturday, May 7 Various locations nycburgerweek.com
Come try our creative approach to brunch, lunch, and dinner—on Murray Hill.
Burgers from Uncle Sam’s. 557 3rd Ave @ 37th Street New York, NY 10016 (212)686-8080 | www.hendriksnyc.com | Follow us
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town EVAN SUNG
TurnStyle
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain.
Inside an underground century-old concourse at the Columbus Circle subway station, TurnStyle has opened with 39 retail and food vendors. The 30,000-square-foot, privately financed retail development includes 12 boutique shops, 20 gourmet eateries, and pop up vendors. It takes place along a 325-foot-long passageway that leads from 57th Street and Eighth Avenue to the A, B, C, D, and 1 train platforms at 59th Street, Columbus Circle. “We bring choice, convenience, and a modern, clean design to the 90,000 daily commuters who use this Midtown hub,” explained Susan Fine, TurnStyle’s developer, in a press release. The vision, she explained, meant bringing Main Street underground. Food vendors include 2Beans, Blossom Du Jour, Bolivian Llama Party, Bosie Patisserie (a second outpost of Bosie Tea Parlor), By Suzette, Dylan’s Candy Bar, Ellary’s Greens, FIKA, Casa Toscana, Gastronomie491, Georgia’s Café (a spin-off of Georgia & Aliou’s Tiny Treats Café), Greyston Bakery, MeltKraft, Semsom, Pressed Juicery, Starbucks, The Nutbox, The Pizza, and Yong Kang Street. For a full list of vendors see turn-style.com
EVAN SUNG
59th Street Columbus Circle station concourse Entrances at 57th/58th streets & Eighth Avenue 774-262-6095 turn-style.com
• Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet.
AP PHOTO/FRANCOIS MORI
• Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
Canapés Under the Canopy? Paris Gentrifies Rusty Mall By Thomas Adamson Swapping burgers for lobster soufflé and rusty welding for a state-of-the-art canopy roof, Paris’s mayor this month unveiled a $1 billion revamp of the city’s dilapidated main shopping and transport complex, Les Halles. Paris authorities view the building project— which made central Paris a construction site pockmarked with cranes for seven years—as an opportunity to gentrify the ‘70s complex that was often voted among the city’s biggest eyesores by disgruntled Paris residents and also attracts a share of the millions of tourists who visit the city every year. The previous incarnation of Les Halles became associated more with the myriad gangs of youths who traveled in on regional trains from the less affluent suburbs to hang out there than it was for its rich past—as the gilded food market and shelter the French king would use to impress merchants in the 12th century and the culinary heart of the city that 19th-century novelist Emile Zola famously called “the belly of Paris.” Today, a giant, green high-tech glass-andmetal undulating canopy roof designed by architects Patrick Berger and Jacques Anziutti sparkles in the spring sunshine. And 35 new stores and restaurants hope to restore the site’s culinary and cultural prowess, including a posh brasserie by Michelinstarred chef Alain Ducasse and a literary eatery designed by Philippe Starck with the slogan “Feed Your Mind.” But not everyone is convinced that the attempted gentrification of Paris’s main artery to the poorer regional suburbs will work. “I think it’s a bit patronizing,” said Paris resident Alice Betout, 31. “It feels a bit like Paris is trying to give culture to the masses, so to speak. When young people come here from the suburbs on the train they just want to hang out. What are they going to do with a literary cafe, foie gras, and garlic snails?” For others more amenable to the new structure, it still seems like an expensive gamble. “This is a working-class place ... and so the shops, which are here ... were conceived to do cheap business,” said 71-year-old pensioner Jacques Merlino, nostalgic about the old Les Halles, a market he remembers from before it was torn down in the ‘70s. “Ducasse, Starck, and all that are in opposition to that [profile]. So will this become chic, with a working-class edge?” he asked. “History will answer this question.” The new canopy is a stark contrast to its predecessor—a hangout so engrained in youth and urban culture that Les Halles is even cited in French rap songs. But Ducasse—whose restaurants include Lon-
don’s Dorchester and Paris’s Plaza Athénée hotels, where dinner can cost $500-$1,000— said the new brasserie, Champeaux, is not out of touch with its surroundings. He believes it will be popular with those who frequent Les Halles, since the brasserie prices remain surprisingly affordable. Some have called it “democratic gastronomy.” “What we do can never be disconnected to the economic reality of where you are. It’s a young and busy place with a big traffic of—I’d say—the working-class chic,” said the chef as he admired his restaurant’s view onto the magnificent 16thcentury Saint Eustache church. A deviled egg will set you back 6 euros ($6.70), a hand-cut steak tartare 20 euros ($22.50) and lobster soufflé a mere 22 euros ($24.80). “We want any customer to be able to come into Champeaux and ... dine, have a drink, nourish himself. You can also spend more! But it’s an important access key,” he added. Ducasse said that Champeaux was named after a restaurant that used to occupy the historic grounds in the 19th century, which was pulled down at the advent of World War I. Opposite, the high-tech eatery Za has more bookish ambitions. Designed by Starck, diners come in and order organic delights, with the aid of an iPhone application, that are delivered by conveyor belt to the customers’ tables. Za’s owners struck a deal with three French publishing houses to print out books while clients dine, thanks to a huge printing press at the side of the cafe. Any book—maybe Zola’s 1873 novel “The Belly of Paris” or George Orwell’s “Down and Out in Paris and London”—can be printed off in under 10 minutes, to be collected as the diner leaves the restaurant. “It was a slightly mad idea we had to create this combination of quick, chic, and hipster because we don’t know if it will work yet,” said Za owner Philippe Amzalak, who said that the rise in real estate prices in the surrounding areas might attract a clientele with more spending power. “The areas around have evolved a lot ... [but] it’s a mix and a gamble at the same time to see if the upgraded renovation will work,” he added. A waitress at Za, 23-year-old Juliana Abessole, who comes to work from the suburbs on an RER suburban train and used to hang out in Les Halles, said that the literary cafe attracts a completely different profile of person to the mall than she’s used to seeing. “When you work in the suburbs you won’t see the same people as here. The people are classier, and have another standard of living than us,” she said. “In the suburbs, we have another language.” From The Associated Press
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF NYIOOC
WORLD’S BEST OLIVE OILS Crowned in New York City By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff Olive oils can be as complex as wine. Producers from around the world proved that was the case at last week’s fourth annual New York International Olive Oil Competition. With 827 producers participating from 26 countries, it was the world’s largest competition of its kind. Expert judges deliberated over four days, awarding Italy with the most awards, at 109, followed by Spain at 78 and the United States at 50. Awards were given according to dierent categories of olive oils (Best in Class, Gold, and Silver). At the April 14 tasting event and award ceremony, bottles upon bottles of the winning extra virgin olive oils were on display. Some, like the Andante Intenso from South Africa (Silver), transformed as they stayed in the mouth: at first grassy like celery, then bitter, and finally intensely spicy. Others, like the Gooramadda Olives King Kalamata from Australia (Best in Class) and Oregon Olive Mill Arbequina (Silver) from the United States, stood out with a particular dominant note: fruity in the former, and buttery-savory in the latter. The Monterosa Picual (Gold) from Portugal made your tongue buzz, like Sichuan peppercorn. Italy made a great comeback from last year, when it had one of the worst harvests in recent history. Judge Antonio G. Lauro said Italian producers’ dedication to quality is what made them succeed this year. Every step of production from olive-picking to bottling is critical. “Each step is dangerous for the oil quality,â€? he said. The olives need to be picked at the right time (in Italy, it’s October, when the quantity is low, but quality is superior, Lauro explained), by hand or with machines that delicately remove the fruits, and then are immediately transported to the mill, where expert millers extract the oil. Natural gases need to be
Authentic Japanese FREE
Panel judge Lina Smith evaluates an oil for the New York International Olive Oil Competition. COURTESY OF NYIOOC
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
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Over 800 entries from around the world were judged. added to the storage tanks so that the oil does not oxidize, and the bottles should be darkcolored, so that light does not destroy the beneficial antioxidant polyphenols in the oil. Meanwhile, Greece underperformed, having submitted 180 oils, but only winning 20 awards. Oleologist and judge Kostas Liris surmised that the reason was because while olive oil-making is steeped in Greek tradition, few producers actually know how to make high-quality oil. “Greek producers don’t pay attention to after-harvest treatment,� he said, referring to the process after olives are picked. Despite that, president of the competition Curtis Cord said it was still a good year. The record number of participants meant “more producers than ever are focused on quality. That’s a remarkable transformation,� he said. Customers can now purchase the awardwinning bottles directly from the producers through an online store, shop.bestoliveoils. com, launched by the competition in March.
Expert judges deliberated over four days, awarding Italy with the most awards, at 109.
For the full list of winners, visit bestoliveoils.com
Celebrate with Us May Wah Vegetarian Market 21st Anniversary
HAPPY HOUR 10% OFF All Frozen Retail Purchases
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Fine Dining for Young People: Parents Not Allowed By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Parents, get ready to introduce your young gastronomes to the world of fine dining—and find a spot to wait outside while they sup at some of New York City’s best tables. Claus Meyer, the co-founder of Noma and entrepreneur behind the Great Northern Food Hall and Agern, is bringing the Kids Table experience to young people aged 7 to 14. Already established since 2011 in his home country of Denmark, Kids Table there counts 90 restaurants and 4,000 children as participants. “Without their parents there, we find that kids are more willing to socialize and try new foods,� said Meyer in an email interview. “The kids feel courageous to venture out ‘on their own’ and are proud when they share their experience with their parents afterward.� That’s not all, though. Meyer points out that the experience inspires families to cook together and broaden their culinary horizons by trying new things (and vegetables). For $30 per child, restaurants serve three healthy, sea-
sonal courses and incorporate three raw ingredients—turnip, lamb, and rhubarb. Restaurants will work to accommodate allergies or dietary restrictions. Participating restaurants include Agern, Atera, Blue Hill New York City, Colonie NYC, Del Posto, Franny’s, Ends Meat, Luksus At Tørst, Per Se, Rebelle, Telepan, Untitled at the Whitney Museum, and Vaucluse. “The restaurants think it’s a lot of fun to be creative and to cook and serve a completely dierent set of guest who experience food very dierently—the city’s hardest critics! Additionally, it is all for a good cause,â€? Meyer said. Profits from the event will be divided between organizations selected by the restaurateurs and the Melting Point Foundation, which will aim to establish a culinary school, cafeteria, bakery, and community center in Brownsville, Brooklyn.
FROM 12 PM TO 4 PM
NYC’s Best Meat Alternative Market HUNDREDS OF CHOICES!
www.MayWahNYC.com
Kids Table has taken place in Denmark since 2011. It makes its debut in New York City on April 26.
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
7Membership available 7NEW LOCATIONS Products available at most Foodtown and Food Bazaars in the city
A huge selection of Tacos, made the traditional way with authentic fillings and flavors such as: CARNITAS BISTEC OREJA LENGUA AND MORE! Did we mention they start at $3?
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Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
sary Anniver 21st Year
We also serve torta sandwiches!
Taqueria Tehuitzingo
695 10th Ave (@ 48th St.) + 578 W. 9th. Ave (Btw 41st & 42nd St)
646-707-3916 + TaqueriaTehutzingo.com Hours Daily 11:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m.
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April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
ALL NATURAL ORGANIC YOUNG CHICKEN BROTH NO MSG•EVERYTHING HOMEMADE Hinata’s Special
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The Iconic Chicken Recipe That You Need in Your Life By Katie Workman
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When this recipe was first created by The Silver Palate catering and take out shop on the Upper East Side of Manhattan, it earned an immediate following. When the recipe was later published in “The Silver Palate Cookbook� by Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso, it was a revelation, mostly thanks to its eccentric ingredient list: Vinegar? Olives? Prunes? Capers? Garlic? Brown sugar? White wine? All in one dish? Yes! To taste it was to be converted. And so for a nice chunk of time during the ‘80s this dish made appearances on tables all over the country, sometimes for family dinners, but more often for entertaining. I grew up on this dish (my mother was an early adopter of it). It was one of the first “grown up� meals I served to family and friends as a budding cook, and not too long ago I even made it to bring to a kindergarten potluck for one of my children. Of course, I also had a deeper connection to this recipe. My father, Peter Workman, was the publisher of the “Silver Palate Cookbook,� so I really felt like the recipe was part of my family’s culinary history. And for a long time it was the first dish on my Passover menu every year. Thankfully, this is not a dish to forget, or imagine to be dated in any way. The faultless and brilliant combination of flavors is timeless, the recipe is pretty foolproof, the chicken is unfailingly moist, and it can be made ahead. Make it again, if you have forgotten it for a while. Or make it for the first time, and tell me that you’re not a card-carrying lifetime chicken marbella fan. Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!� and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.� From The Associated Press
AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD
RECIPE CHICKEN MARBELLA Prep & Cooking Time: 1 1/2 hours, plus marinating (30 minutes active) Serves: 10 • • • • • • • • • • • • •
1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 cup red wine vinegar 1 cup (about 8 ounces) pitted prunes 1/2 cup (about 3 ounces) pitted Spanish green olives 1/2 cup capers, with a bit of juice 6 bay leaves 1 head of garlic, minced 1/4 cup dried oregano Kosher salt and ground black pepper 10 pounds quartered chicken pieces 1 cup packed brown sugar 1 cup dry white wine 1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley or fresh cilantro, finely chopped
DIRECTIONS In a large bowl, combine the olive oil, vinegar, prunes, olives, capers and a splash of the juice, the bay leaves, garlic, oregano, and a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper. Add the chicken and stir to coat. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight. When ready to cook, heat the oven to 350 F. Arrange the chicken in a single layer in 1 or 2 large, shallow baking pans. Spoon the marinade evenly over the chicken. Sprinkle the chicken pieces with the brown sugar and pour the white wine around them. Bake, basting frequently with the pan juices, until the thigh pieces reach 170 F and the breasts reach 160 F, 50 minutes to 1 hour. With a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken, prunes, olives, and capers to a serving platter. Moisten with a few spoons of the pan juices and sprinkle generously with the parsley or cilantro. Serve the remaining pan juices on the side. Note: To serve chicken marbella cold, cool to room temperature in the cooking juices before transferring the pieces to a serving platter. If the chicken has been covered and refrigerated, reheat it in the juices, then allow it to come to room temperature before serving. Spoon some of the reserved juices over the chicken. Recipe adapted from “The Silver Palate Cookbook� by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins (Workman, 1979)
Doing the Impossible Make a Vegan Caesar Worth Celebrating By Melissa d’Arabian
249 East 49th St., 2nd Fl. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) CLUBVOA.NYC Hours: Mon–Sat 9pm–3am, Fri 9pm–4am, Sun (bar only) 8pm–2am
Classic Margherita Pizza
I’ve heard that many restaurant chefs despise making Caesar salads, but I don’t understand why. Who wouldn’t love making lemony-cheesy-black-pepper-salad dreams come true? So my resourceful little self has always had a solid Caesar salad game going at home. My original recipe was rooted in the classic for years: raw egg yolk, umami-laden anchovies, nutty Parmesan cheese, tart lemon juice. I then top that basic Caesar salad with almost any protein to turn it into a truly satisfying meal. Steak, shrimp, or chicken work well, but so do turkey meatballs, roasted pork tenderloin and—my secret weapon— just about every kind of canned fish available. Over time, I’ve adapted and adjusted my beloved Caesar salad recipe to account for changes in my family. When I was pregnant, I avoided raw eggs. My daughter’s gluten intolerance kicked the sourdough croutons to the curb. And my vegetarian niece and nephew had me searching for a worthy umami substitute for anchovies.
Recently, I faced my greatest challenge: a completely vegan Caesar salad for some dinner guests. No Parmesan cheese? I thought it would be impossible. But you guys, here is the impossible: a totally tasty vegan Caesar salad. This salad gets its rich umami flavor from a cool combination of miso paste and nutritional yeast (not to be confused with brewer’s yeast). The croutons are back in for this recipe, but I just leave them out for my gluten-free daughter. To turn this salad into a fully vegan meal, top with nuts, seeds, lentils, white beans, or tofu. And a note to my carnivore friends: Don’t let the word vegan scare you o this recipe. It’s also great topped with a few ounces of meat. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.â€? From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH
RECIPE VEGAN CAESAR SALAD Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza “the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...� ZAGAT USER
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Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 6 • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
1/3 cup raw unsalted cashews Boiling water 1/4 cup toasted walnuts 1/4 cup nutritional yeast flakes 1/4 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/4 cup lemon juice 2 to 4 cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1/4 cup olive oil 2 tablespoons white miso paste 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper 3 tablespoons cool water 3 hearts romaine lettuce, roughly chopped 2 cups bread cubes, brushed with olive oil and toasted
DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, combine the cashews and enough boiling water to cover them. Let sit for several minutes.
Meanwhile, in a blender, combine the walnuts, nutritional yeast, and granulated garlic. Pulse until the mixture has the texture of sand. Pour into a small bowl and set aside. Drain the cashews and transfer them to the blender. Add the lemon juice, fresh garlic, mustard, olive oil, miso, pepper, and cool water. Blend until the mixture is mostly smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings. In a large bowl, toss the lettuce with the dressing, then top with the bread cubes and the ground walnut mixture. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian
D9
@EpochTaste
April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
A Sip-and-Step Guide to Hiking the Napa Valley By Michelle Locke Here’s a wine country secret that can help you raise your glass and your heart rate. Along with the Napa Valley’s famous wine-tasting trails, there are miles of scenic trails of the hiking variety, beckoning visitors who want to exercise more than their palates. “There are so many great places up here,” said John Conover, partner and general manager of Odette Estate winery and an avid hiker. From the mellow stroll of the Napa Vine Trail on the valley floor to more rugged hauls into the hills, hiking options have expanded in California wine country, and so has interest in wine-country walking. “It used to be people would come to Napa just asking about wine and food,” said Conover. Now, tasting-room visitors frequently ask about outdoor options as well, something he attributes to the general interest in staying fit. Wine country visitors who want a taste of the outdoors have lots of options. Free, guided hikes are available from the Land Trust of Napa County. The organization, which buys and preserves land as open space, led 32 hikes in 2015 attended by more than 300 people. Many of the participants are local, but there’s also interest from visitors, said Megan Lilla, lands program assistant with the group. “I think it’s known that the landscape here is special and there are great hiking opportunities,” she said. Meanwhile, the Napa County Regional Park and Open Space District has been promoting hiking as a way to diversify valley activities. “There’s been a big push in recent years to advocate, or at least acknowledge, other things besides wine tasting,” said the district’s Chino Yip. Here’s a sampling of some wine country trails. Valley Wine Trail This is a work in progress supported by the grass-roots Napa Valley Vine Trail Coalition. Ultimately, the plan is to connect the Bay Area with the entire valley through a walking/biking trail system, 47 miles from the Vallejo Ferry Terminal all the way to Calistoga. Completed sections include the Yountville Bike Trail, a paved trail running beside vineyards parallel to Highway 29 and known as the Yountville mile. vinetrail.org Robert Louis Stevenson State Park At the northern tip of the Napa Valley, this is where the author of “Treasure Island” spent his honeymoon in 1880. Nothing remains of the abandoned bunkhouse where Stevenson and his bride, Fanny, stayed. But the site is identi-
fied on the trail, which begins with a moderate climb of about 1 mile and then joins a broader fire road that leads the rest of the 5 miles to the summit of Mount St. Helena. On clear days, you get sweeping views of the San Francisco Bay Area and sometimes a glimpse of the top of Mount Shasta, nearly 200 miles away. napaoutdoors.org/parks/ robert-louis-stevenson-state-park Guided Hikes The Land Trust of Napa County offers free hikes most weeks between April and November. Most of the preserves aren’t normally open to the public, so this is a way to connect the community with their open spaces. Some hikes are themed—geology, amphibian, birding, and so on—and feature experts in those fields. Go here to register for upcoming hikes: community.napalandtrust.org Oat Hill Mine Trail This trail near Calistoga follows about 8 miles of an old stagecoach route, and the ruts carved by heavy wagons traveling the soft, volcanic rock can still be seen along parts of the middle and upper trail. Rough and rocky in places, the trail has great views of Napa Valley. A good time to visit is spring when wildflowers burst into bloom. napaoutdoors.org/parks/oat-hill-mine-trail Moore Creek Park This a relatively new addition to Napa hiking and includes trails that wind past oaks, Douglas firs, and madrone trees. The park also includes one of Conover’s favorite spots, a trail that runs alongside Lake Hennessey, source of Napa’s drinking water. Pristine and hidden away from the main thoroughfares, “It makes you think you’re a million miles away from the Napa Valley.” napaoutdoors.org/parks/moore-creek-park Sonoma Headed for Sonoma wine country? There’s ample hiking there, too. Follow this link for some ideas. parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/Activities/ Hiking.aspx And if you’d like to combine your sipping and stepping, try Seghesio Family Vineyards, which has guided hikes a few times a year near the winery’s Home Ranch property, followed by lunch. seghesio.com
Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
For more information, visit ept.ms/napavalleyhiking From The Associated Press ALL PHOTOS BY ERIC RISBERG/AP
Along with the Napa Valley’s world-famous winetasting trails, there are miles of scenic hiking trails. Walking up a trail beneath redwood trees at the Archer Taylor Preserve in Napa, Calif.
212-594-4963 10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours A map and guide is posted along the Napa Valley Vine Trail in Yountville, Calif.
D10
@EpochTaste
April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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Stalking the
White asparagus dishes at Wallsé in the West Village, one served with peas and tomatoes (top), and the other with purple potatoes and grapefruit.
White Asparagus By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff At this time of year, there’s a palpable sense of excitement in northwestern Europe. It all surrounds a vegetable dubbed “white gold,” “spears of spring air,” and “edible ivory”—white asparagus. Called “spargel” in German (simply, asparagus), it’s not the green asparagus more common in North America. “For me, asparagus was always white asparagus,” said chef Kurt Gutenbrunner of Wallsé in Manhattan’s West Village. He grew up in an Austrian village by the Danube river. “Outside of Vienna, you find these beautiful white asparagus fields it’s a little bit sandy there, and the climate is right.” The asparagus is white because it grows while covered under a mound of soil. The harvest is still done by hand, by workers with a keen eye who scan the earth for the tiny telltale cracks as the asparagus spears push their way upward. “You have to harvest early in the morning before the sun comes up,” Gutenbrunner said. If you ever see asparagus with purple tips, that because, he explained, the harvest was a little too late. From purple, and if left to grow under
the sun, they’ll turn green. The white asparagus season lasts from early April through late June—the perennial plants are then left to recover for the following year’s harvest after that. This year, the winter was colder than usual. For example, the restaurant Böser in Forst, which specializes in asparagus dishes, opened its doors on April 5. The first asparagus elicits much enthusiasm— as much for its delicate, sweet flavor as for the certainty that spring has at last arrived. On Facebook you can be sure to find full-capped exultations like “ES IST #SPARGEL-ZEIT” (“It’s asparagus time”). It’s probably been about three weeks since the first asparagus was dug out and you still find 92,028 people talking about #spargel. White asparagus, called the “King of Vegetables” by some, has received some royal favor in history. The French “Sun King,” Louis XIV, was said to relish white asparagus. Karl Theodor, the Elector Palatine, also became fond of it, and in 1650, ordered for it to be grown at his summer residence, Schwetzingen Palace. In the 18th JAY CROSS/CC BY 2.0
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White asparagus and strawberries, at a market in Schwetzingen, Germany, are sure signs of spring.
D11
@EpochTaste
April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com BTMV
WHERE TO TRY WHITE ASPARAGUS IN NYC
The cycling route through the flat Rhine Valley is an easy ride.
Wallsé Chef Kurt’s Gutenbrunner makes white asparagus several ways, including a simple, delicious dish with nothing more than white asparagus and morels (another harbinger of spring) and tomato foam (maybe a hint of summer there, with a nice earthy acidity). The ivory color makes a great canvas for other additions, as in the case of Gutenbrunner’s white asparagus with purple potatoes and coral-colored grapefruit, which he adds for a hint of acidity. “Food always needs to have a little bit of acid, it’s very playful. I like the balance between the sweetness and the acid,” he said.
Germans call it “kultig” (iconic) to go on a bicycle trip, dig the asparagus themselves, and—of course— finish off with an asparagus feast. COURTESY OF BOSERS SPARGELRESTAURANT
GERMAN NATIONAL TOURIST OFFICE
MITTELWESER-TOURISTIK GMBH
Restaurants such as Bösers Spargelrestaurant in Forst, solely devoted to white asparagus, pop up at this time of year.
A porcelain jar shaped like an asparagus bundle for serving sauces. Asparagus Museum of Lower Saxony in Nienburg, Germany (1780).
Gotham Bar and Grill Chef Alfred Portale steams asparagus gently until tender and makes a sofrito mixture of baby rainbow carrots, spring onions, and housemade pancettta. “I top the asparagus with a sunny side up egg plated with an arugula pesto. The colors are stunning,” he said.
SIA
Trimming asparagus at the market.
The laborious harvest is done by hand.
century, it became popular in courtly cuisine; nobles would pick up the stalks with specialized silver finger pliers. “The asparagus was cooked until very soft so that they could be sipped like oysters. They were—just like oysters—served as a delicacy,” said Margrit Csiky, head of city marketing in Bruchsal, Germany. “Each stalk was picked up with specially prepared asparagus tongs and slurped straight in one piece.” Today, though, preferences run more toward al dente, and a fork and knife do just fine. “I like it when asparagus has a bite,” Gutenbrunner said. He likes it with nothing more than some béarnaise or hollandaise sauce. “You just dip [the asparagus] with your fingers.” Traditional accompaniments might be young potatoes, a slice of ham, or smoked fish. Being labor intensive, the royal vegetable does have a royal price too, especially early in the season. The best quality white asparagus sold at about 19.80 euros a pound ($22) earlier this month. According to Csiky, the price is expected to fall with good weather as the season progresses. If you head to Germany, you can find seasonal pop-up restaurants that serve only white asparagus; asparagus festivals; crowned asparagus queens; asparagus runs; asparagus galas, such as the one held at the baroque Bruchsal Castle; and museums likes the European Asparagus Museum in Schrobenhausen. In the Rhine Valley, which is home to the largest asparagus growing area in Europe, an asparagus bicycle tour along the Baden Asparagus Route takes riders along growing fields for 85 miles, punctuated by highlights along the way. The area is flat, making it popular for family trips. Bruchsal, for example, is the site of a Baroque palace as well as the largest asparagus market in Europe; Karlsruhe and Schwetzingen are also homes to palaces. In Rastatt, visitors can try their hands at picking asparagus on select dates. It is recommended to time your visit to coincide with one of the folk festivals along the bike trail, in cities such as Bruchsal, Schwetzingen, or Walldorf. Restaurant experiences range from the rustic to the refined, from Michelin-starred restaurants to pop-up restaurants by the side of the road, adjoining farms. For the latter, try Spargelhof Böser in Forst,
Spargelhof Simianer in Hambrücken, Spargelhof Mösch with Courtyard Café in GrabenNeudorf, or Spargelhof Krüger with an asparagus tent in Walldorf. Drinking to Asparagus While you’re eating asparagus along the Baden route, remember the old adage, “What grows together goes together.” Local Baden wines come highly recommended. Csiky recommended white wines with moderate acidity such as Rivaner, riesling, and pinot blanc, but especially recommends trying the Auxerrois, a specialty of the Kraichgau (known in France as Pinot Auxerrois). “This wine is characterized by a very pleasant, mild acidity. In the fragrance one can identify exotic fruits such as mango, passion fruit, papaya, and mirabelle [plum]. The pleasant acidity, along with the exotic bouquet, make it the ideal companion of asparagus,” she said. In addition to the Baden Asparagus route, Germany also has an asparagus trail in Lower Saxony.
Café Boulud When it comes to white asparagus, chef Aaron Bludorn goes for the French kind without hesitation. “Most French chefs I have met swear by French white asparagus,” he said. “I only serve white asparagus from Provence. I think the balance of acidity/sweetness/bitterness is the best in its class.” The spears are cooked in simmering water with a touch of sugar to enhance the flavors and Bludorn likes to cook them so they are tender to the tooth—but not mushy. They are then tossed in olive oil, sherry vinegar, and sea salt, and served hot. Bludorn also likes to add a dish with a creamy element—white asparagus with whole grain mustard dressing, a sunny side up quail egg, lomo ham, and wild arugula. To add acidity, he uses pickled pearl onions. It’s all served with toasted brioche for a satisfying crunch. “When creating a dish around white asparagus, you cannot forget [it’s] the star. The other elements are only supporting actors and you cannot dress it up too much with anything too fancy. Remember the white asparagus have a short season and guests are looking to remember why they were so special the year before,” he said.
Charlie Bird On chef Tim Meyers’s new brunch menu you can find white asparagus with creamy shallot vinaigrette. “Just like green asparagus, white asparagus gets a little too fibrous near the base (especially when farms let it grow really fat, as they do in Provence), so we trim that part off, and juice it along with the peeling of the outside of the stalk,” he said. To the juice he adds apple cider vinegar and uses it as a marinade for the already blanched asparagus stalks, along with some rosemary and brown butter. “Storing it in this marinade is a surefire way to ensure a juicy product that is well seasoned, but true to its own delicate flavor,” he said. Gabriel Kreuther To chef Gabriel Kreuther, “White asparagus are the first blush of spring in the kitchen.” He prefers them from Hoerdt just north of Strasbourg, France. A favorite recipe is pairing it with a vinaigrette of pickled mustard seeds. At his restaurant, Gabriel Kreuther, he plans to make white asparagus with a smoked salmon coulis, consisting of smoked salmon, onions, shallots, tomato paste, vermouth, and white wine. It’s not currently on the menu but will be when asparagus prices become more reasonable.
The French Sun King, Louis XIV, was said to relish white asparagus.
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
For more information, visit germany.travel/en BTMV
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
When you have to bike to a farm and dig out the asparagus yourself, it doubtlessly tastes twice as good.
D12
@EpochTaste
April 22–28, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
A Visit to Arthur Avenue By Beth J. Harpaz A visit to Arthur Avenue in the Bronx means one thing—Italian food. Fresh mozzarella, handmade pasta, and hero sandwiches loaded with ham, tomatoes, peppers, and cheese—it’s all here in the delis, restaurants, shops, cafes, and bakeries along Arthur Avenue and East 187th Street. Some of the best-known places include Tino’s Deli, Madonia Brothers Bakery, and an oldschool, family-style restaurant called Dominick’s. But there are many other places to sample the neighborhood’s bounty. Stop in at the DeLillo Pasticceria cafe, where display shelves overflow with cookies and pastries, for a sublime cappuccino and cannoli. Check out Borgatti’s pasta store, where you can watch egg noodles being made on the spot. Borgatti’s takehome specialties include fettucine made from squid ink and ravioli. A must on any trip to the neighborhood is the Arthur Avenue Retail Market. This indoor venue is home to a shop where cigars are rolled by hand, a produce market, a T-shirt souvenir store, and Mike’s Deli, a favorite stop among politicians and celebrities. In early April, Ohio Gov. John Kasich was photographed eating at Mike’s, tearing into sandwiches and several helpings of spaghetti while stumping for votes in the New York Republican presidential primary. A scrapbook on display at the deli shows photos of other famous visitors—including Robert DeNiro and Hillary Clinton—chowing down and posing with enormous hunks of cheese and
whole salamis. David Greco, whose father founded Mike’s Deli, recommends the Michelangelo hero, with prosciutto and heavenly fresh mozzarella, as one of the best things on the menu. Just be careful to keep the seeded top of the sandwich roll face up. If you don’t, Greco will come over and say, “Your bread’s upside down. It’s bad luck.” Arthur Avenue is located in the Belmont section of the Bronx. Belmont bills itself as the “real” Little Italy, contending that it is a more vibrant Italian-American community than Manhattan’s Little Italy, which has shrunk in recent decades to just a few blocks. But while the Italian flavor of Belmont’s culture and retailers remains strong, the population of Italian-American families has declined over the decades. The local mix now includes Latinos, Albanians, and students from nearby Fordham University. Yet you can still find old women chatting away in Italian in the back row of Our Lady of Mount Carmel Church, surrounded by marble columns, stained glass windows, and statues of the Madonna. And while it’s not unusual to find foodies and tourists—including visitors from Italy—on Arthur Avenue, there’s a certain type of shopper that Greco likes the best. “My favorite customers,” he said, “are the grandmas.” Visit arthuravenuebronx.com and bronxlittleitaly.com for more information. From The Associated Press
ALL PHOTOS BY BETH J. HARPAZ/AP
David Greco in front of meats and cheeses on display at Mike’s Deli in the Arthur Avenue Retail Market.
A banner in the Belmont section of the Bronx.
Finding a Match for Sweet Sauternes Château Climens produces Sauternes-Barsac wines hefty enough to stand up to complex savory dishes ALL PHOTOS BY MANOS ANGELAKIS
By Manos Angelakis
Venture Into Thailand’s
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• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Delectable, sweet white wines are found in Bordeaux’s Sauternes-Barsac region, where producers create wines with enough heft and acidity to pair with some of the most complex dishes of world cuisine. In Sauternes wines, it’s not unusual to find aromas and tastes of honey, pineapple, peach, pear, apricot, orange, and vanilla. It is surprising to find that though these honey-soaked wines are called “dessert” wines due to their sweetness, they very rarely pair well with desserts, perhaps with the exception of bitter dark chocolate creations. Instead, they pair very well with some of the saltiest and fattiest dishes. Sauternes and oysters on the half shell is a great wine and food pairing. Foie gras and salty hard blue cheeses with high mineral content pair beautifully with the honeyed wines. And Sauternes make for an almost perfect pairing when served with spicy and salty Asian dishes that have become a mainstay of many American tables. One of the most prominent producers of Sauternes-Barsac wines is Château Climens (Premier Cru Classé Barsac), one of the few certified biodynamic Grand Cru wineries in Bordeaux. I recently had lunch with Bérénice Lurton, the guiding light behind Château Climens. She is a member of the Lurton family, one of Bordeaux’s most influential wine dynasties. Altogether, the family owns 27 properties encompassing 3,200 acres of vineyards, with wineries in Bordeaux and the Languedoc, Portugal, Spain, Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, and Australia. I have known Lurton’s first cousin François Lurton— the “Flying Winemaker”—for a number of years and highly respect his red wines made in Chile’s Colchagua Valley at Hacienda Araucano and in Argentina’s Alto Uco Valley in Mendoza. In Bordeaux, Château Climens has a history dating back to 1547. Currently, 64 acres of Château Climens’s 74 acres are in production, with the oldest vines being about 70 years old. The district has been under vine since medieval times. What Lurton hopes to achieve with biodynamic cultivation is sweet wines with considerably more elegance. We started our lunch with hors d’oeuvres and well-chilled glasses of 2013 Cyprès de Climens, the château’s second label. Cyprès de Climens shows many of the characteristics of the Grand Vin but is much more approachable in its youth; considering that Cyprès is a second label, the price-to-quality ratio is exceptional. This is a fruity wine, refreshing, not as full-bodied as the Grand Vin, with white flowers and tropical fruits on the nose and a beautiful palate showing great depth, richness, and plenty of acidity. It worked very well with Parmesan Pops on sticks— crispy, salty Parmesan tuile dipped in dried tomato dust. At the table, the first two wines to be poured were the Climens 2011 and 2012, the château’s most recent vintages, with an amuse-bouche of Pork Liver Terrine served between two saltybitter chocolate sheets and the salad course. The 2012 was young, flowery, with good acidity—
Sauternes make for an almost perfect pairing when served with spicy and salty Asian dishes.
An amuse-bouche of Pork Liver Terrine served between sheets of bitter chocolate, paired well with the full-bodied 2011 Château Climens.
what a new Sauternes wine should be. The 2011, on the other hand, was much closer to a classic Sauternes, with aromas of white flowers, white peaches and pears, vanilla, and honey. On the palate it was full-bodied, with enough heft to pair well with the pickled squash and raisins in the salad. I thought that a couple years in the cellar would only improve the 2011, making it a worthy representative of one of the better Sauternes wines we have seen in the new century. The main course might have been a challenge for the kitchen, but the final result paired exceptionally well with the 2005 and 2009 Climens wines. The description on the menu was Berkshire pork prepared three ways: loin, pork belly, and boneless blade roast, served with mashed rutabaga, dates, barley, and spinach in a smoky-umami charcuterie sauce with surprising hints of camphor. The refreshingly original dish readily paired with the older sweet wines that have started exhibiting nuances of tropical fruit and florals—apricot, pineapple, vanilla. This kitchen was definitely thinking outside the box! Dessert is the course often associated with Sauternes wines, even though it is the hardest pairing of all. Here it was particularly successful because it played well with the sweetness of the wine without adding any cloying syrupiness. The Honey Parfait was refreshing combined with a soft beeswax ice cream. Together with the beautifully lively 2002 vintage wine, the combination was heavenly. And then came the pièce de résistance: bottles of 1976 Château Climens, a legendary vintage made when Lurton was a young girl. As the oldest of the wines at the lunch, it had acquired the beauty of age: 18 karat old-gold color, heady aromas of toffee, butterscotch, candied citrus, and a very faint hint of dark honey and caramel. Absolutely gorgeous! With a piece of farmhouse Stilton and a slice of fresh baguette, it would have been the most exceptional pairing. Manos Angelakis is a wine and food writer in New York City. As the gastronomy critic for luxuryweb.com, he has spent many years traveling the world in search of culinary excellence.