D1 May 1–7, 2015 Check out Trendsetters with Herb Karlitz.
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Harlem Renaissance
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Herb Karlitz and Tren’ness Woods-Black share a meal at Streetbird Rotisserie in Harlem on April 23.
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
ith the upcoming Harlem EatUp! festival on May 14–17, the neighborhood’s food and hospitality scene is about to get an injection of fame.
Festival founders and producers are chef Marcus Samuelsson (of Red Rooster and Streetbird Rotisserie) and Herb Karlitz, president of Karlitz & Company, an event marketing firm. The two, who have known each other for 20 years, have long wanted to put Harlem on the map. “Marcus and I were at South Beach [Wine & Food Festival] last year, and it was at one of the after parties,” he said. “We just looked at each other. I said to him, ‘It’s time’ and he just looked at me and said, ‘Yep.’”
See Harlem on D2
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D2 May 1–7, 2015
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Harlem Renaissance Harlem continued from D1 “It’s time we do something to bring the spotlight here [in Harlem], like what happened in Brooklyn for the last 10 years,” said Karlitz. Tren’ness Woods-Black, a festival participant and the granddaughter of famed restaurateur Sylvia Woods, grew up hearing stories of Harlem from her grandmother’s days, a time where “you had to be dressed up to the nines to walk down Seventh Avenue.” “You had to be prim and proper—on any day,” she said. “That's where all the hot spots were and all the clubs and the ballrooms were.” The festival’s ties to Harlem’s past is evident. In early April, the festival’s chefs and participants gathered to recreate a photo inspired by Art Kane’s 1958 photo “A Great Day in Harlem” featuring 27 jazz greats. “The chef photo actually made me really emotional,” Woods-Black said, “because right before we took the picture, Marcus [Samuelsson] is like, ‘Tren’ness, the sun came out!’ He was like “Tren'ness, your grandmother, she sent the sun, she's here. Can you imagine how happy she is?’ I said, “Marcus, don’t make me cry, we're about to take a picture!” And I’m an ugly crier.” Karlitz and Samuelsson knew they wanted to make their idea a reality in February 2014. Just three months later, they made the announcement that Harlem EatUp! was happening and publicly shared their vision, alongside Bill de Blasio and neighbor Bill Clinton, who is honorary chair of the festival. For a first-year festival, it is huge, with 45 events over four days. “This will put the national spotlight on Harlem and even internationally,” he said. The event features participants and chefs from Harlem and elsewhere, as long as they have a tie to Harlem in some way.
Everyone is owning it. … The energy is through the roof. Tren'ness Woods-Black
Fortunately, not all dinners or events are sold out. For more on Harlem EatUp! visit HarlemEatUp.com Proceeds go to Citymeals-on-Wheels and Harlem Park to Park.
“Everyone is owning it. … The energy is through the roof,” said Woods-Black. Free events are planned as well, including culinary demonstrations on the afternoon on May 16 by the likes of Marcus Samuelsson, Aarón Sanchez, Alex Guarnaschelli, and Ludo Lefebvre. For the full experience or “EatUp on stereoids,” as Karlitz calls it, get tickets to “The Stroll: A Grand Tasting Experience” in Morningside Park (May 16, $75–$150, includes tastings). Other events include talks, as well as “Dine In Harlem,” an array of dinners held at different Harlem restaurants, matching a Harlem restaurant and chef with acclaimed chefs from NYC and the country. Woods-Black has been especially excited about the dinner at Sylvia’s on May 15, featuring herself, chef Carlos Brown, and guest chef Michael White. “I’m going to channel A’lelia Walker, Madam C.J. Walker’s daughter.” Woods-Black said. “She would throw these elaborate dinner parties with Harlem Renaissance writers. She would invite people like the Vanderbilts, people from downtown to experience a mix of champagne and chitlins.” On the menu: spicy Calabrese chitlins with fried green tomatoes (with Sylvia’s cornbread incorporated into the coating of the tomatoes), fresh buffalo mozzarella; smooth Charlestonstyle shrimp and grits; banana pudding crème brûlée. You could tell she was elsewhere as she recounted the menu items. “Yum yum yum yum,” she said. One issue. The dinner is already sold out. Woods-Black has been getting calls about. “It’s not my fault, it’s Herb’s fault,” she said. “Call Herb.” But Karlitz isn’t called a marketing genius for nothing. He recalled the old show biz axiom: “Leave them wanting more.”
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
COURTESY OF HARLEM EATUP!
The chefs and participants of Harlem EatUp! gathered in early April to take a group shot, inspired by Art Kane’s 1958 photo “A Great Day in Harlem,” featuring 27 jazz greats.
Tren’ness Woods-Black (L) makes a stop at Harlem Haberdashery to visit with Louis Johnson Jr., trends specialist. Woods-Black sits at her grandmother Sylvia Woods's table, at Sylvia’s in Harlem.
What’s YOUR favorite Harlem hangout?
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SUBLIME
Ancient principles of Greek cuisine combined with modern techniques, yield a harmonious balance of flavors in every dish, at Nerai.
55 East 54th Street New York (646)844-2275 www.nerai.nyc
Epoch Taste
D3 May 1–7, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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OUR ROUTE WITH TREN'NESS WOODS-BLACK MALCOLM X BLVD
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1 STREETBIRD ROTISSERIE
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4 AMBASSADES 2200 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (at 119th Street) 212-666-0078 PatisseriedesAmbassades.com
5 VINATERIA 2211 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (at 119th Street) 212-662-8462 VinateriaNYC.com
6 SETTEPANI 196 Malcolm X Blvd. (at 120th Street) 917-492-4806 Settepani.com
7 CHERI 231 Lenox Ave. (between 121st and 122nd streets) 212-662-4374 CheriHarlem.com
8 HARLEM HABERDASHERY 245 Malcolm X Blvd. (between 122nd and 123rd streets) 646-707-0070 HarlemHaberdashery.com
9 SYLVIA’S 328 Malcolm X Blvd. (between 126th and 127th streets) 212-996-0660 SylviasRestaurant.com In Celebration of Epoch Taste, We’re Giving Away
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LoLo’s Seafood Shack transports you right to the Caribbean. Don’t miss the Belizean conch fritters, which are to die for.
What’s a stroll with Tren’ness without a few shopping stops thrown in? First stop: Bébénoir. Great collection of stylish accessories and jewelry—here Tren’ness picks up one, two, three jewelry pieces, and a knapsack.
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2164 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (between 116th and 117th streets) 212-828-5775 BebeNoir.com
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303 W. 116th St. (near Frederick Douglass Blvd.) 646-649-3356 LoLosSeafoodShack.com
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2149 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (between 115th and 116th streets) 212-206-2557 StreetbirdNYC.com
The latest addition to Marcus Samuelsson’s restaurant group, Streetbird Rotisserie is a casual and fun place to drop in on (no reservations). Executive chef Adrienne Cheatham, an eightyear veteran of Le Bernardin, helms the kitchen. The creamy mac ’n’ cheese is a must—and the bird, of course, the bird. Karlitz has a pithy assessment of the cornbread: “Illegal stuff.”
FREDERICK DOUGLAS BLVD
W 123rd ST
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LENOX AVE
ADAM CLAYTON POWELL JR. BLVD.
W 126th ST
MALCOLM X BLVD
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ADAM CLAYTON POWELL JR. BLVD.
FREDERICK DOUGLAS BLVD
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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Woods-Black holds a portrait of her grandmother Sylvia Woods.
TREN'NESS'S DATE NIGHT PICKS
W 115th ST
Is it us or did those pastries just call to be eaten? The offerings behind the glass displays are tantalizing. Give in to the almond croissant and there will be no regrets.
The cuisine is seasonal, rooted in the cuisines of Italy and Spain. Woods-Black loves the cocktails here, some named after Pedro Almodóvar films, such as the "High Heels" (mint, mezcal, Averna Amaro, lemon juice, tonic water).
Chef Antonio Settepani, who hails from Palermo, cooks Italian and Mediterranean at this restaurant. Favored by Woods-Black for a quiet date night.
At Chéri, you’re truly in the chef’s hands. Alain Eoche lives upstairs, and the restaurant is an extension of his home. The menu is conceived each day, with the provisions from local farmers markets, as if it were for a private dinner party.
The place for all things stylish and dapper, including custom-made apparel. A go-to spot for celebrities, recording artists, and sports stars.
Ever since the days of Tren’ness’s grandmother Sylvia Woods, this restaurant has been a classic in Harlem. It’s all about the fried chicken and the ribs. Just abandon all pretenses and ditch the utensils and leave some room for dessert.
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Celebrate Mother’s Day with Us Treat Mom to our 2-course pre fixe Sunday brunch 10am–4pm, $38
37 Barrow Street, New York, (212) 255 5416 DuetNy.com
Epoch Taste
D4 May 1–7, 2015
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CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
AROUND TOWN
COURTESY OF SCHWEID AND SONS
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
NY Burger Week
New York Burger Co.
Celebrate hamburgers with Schweid & Sons’ 4th Annual NY Burger Week. For example, on Friday, May 1, the NY Burger Feast will feature burgers from Hard Times Sundaes, Black Iron Burger, Ramen Burger, Genuine Roadside, Hudson Common, The Ainsworth, and Heartland Brewery, with craft beer tastings.
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
Other events include: a boozy burger brunch, a blind burger tasting, a burgers and bubbly pairing dinner, and more. May 1–7, various locations. TheBurgerWeek.com BRYAN SARKINEN
Mira Dragon Eye Margarita and taco.
A Turkish Feast You’ll Always Remember
Mira Sushi & Izakaya. Dragon Eye Margarita (tequila, yuzu, lemon, lime, and muddled dragon fruit) paired with chef Brian Tsao’s Beef Bulgogi Taco with a wonton shell, kimchi slaw, Korean pear, scallions, and toasted sesame ($15). May 5, 46 W. 22nd St. 212-989-7889 MiraSushi.com Louro’s Pop-Up Taqueria. A section of tacos ($2.50) including short rib, shrimp, chicken, pork belly, and huitlacoche; tequila and margaritas ($8) from 5 p.m. to midnight. May 5, 142 W. 10th St. 212-206-0606 LouroNYC.com
Authentic Mediterranean Turkish Cuisine
Cinco de Mayo
Rosa Mexicano will be celebrating 5 Days of Cinco featuring $35 three-course prixfixe fiesta menus, specialty margaritas, and select pitcher cocktails all week long. May 1–5, three locations, Manhattan. RosaMexicano.com
2 Delicious Specialty Kebabs & Pides 2 Zucchini Pancakes 2 Decadent Homemade Specialties and Desserts 2 Catering Available
Seven’s Mediterranean Turkish Grill Rating on Trip Advisor Rating on Open Table MEDITERRANEAN TURKISH GRILL
158 West 72nd St. NY (212) 724-4700
www.SevenTurkishGrillNYC.com
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SUNNY NORTON
Grand Gourmet: The Flavor of Midtown Join the Grand Central Partnership’s annual tasting event featuring more than 40 of the top restaurants, bars, lounges, and purveyors in the greater Grand Central neighborhood. Net proceeds from the event help support Midtown Manhattan homeless service programs. Among the participating restaurants: The Four Seasons Restaurant, Murray’s Cheese, FIKA, Chola, and Alfredo 100. May 7, 7 p.m. Vanderbilt Hall at Grand Central Terminal, 89 E. 42nd St. Tickets $125-350. GrandCentralPartnership.nyc ERIC ISAAC
WE MAKE GREAT PIZZA YOU’LL MAKE GREAT FRIENDS
Springtime at Pergola If you can’t get to Brooklyn Botanic Garden for the annual pageantry of cherry blossoms, head to the Mediterranean spot Pergola. Located close to the Flower District, the restaurant takes full advantage of it. A wall of blossoming cherry branches welcomes diners night or day, and vines snake throughout. It’s a jungle in there, and we mean that in a good way.
Cherry blossoms at Pergola.
Mixologist Scott Fitzgerald’s spring/summer cocktails include the Bright Lotus (Snow Leopard vodka, passion fruit, lime, crème de cassis) and the Calypso Deep (Kappa Pisco, agave nectar, cucumber, jalapeño bitters). Pergola, 36 W. 28th St., 212-679-4842. PergolaNewYork.com
We are the most social pizza place around, come hang out with us, we are open every day until 5 am!
Hudson Ramp Fest
FOR MORE THAN 18 YEARS, East Village Pizza & Kebab has been serving the best Italian pizza, fine Italian dishes, remarkable kebabs and falafels in the East Village.
We make 40 different kind of pizza pies, you have to try them all!
145 First Avenue (Corner of east 9th street) New York, NY 10003 DINE IN OR TAKE OUT, WE MAKE IT EASY FOR YOU TO ORDER. Order online at: www.EastVillagePizza.net or call us at 212-529-4545. Delivery is Fast & Free.
Grand Gourmet.
Find out why some chefs go crazy for ramps at the 5th annual Ramp Fest in Hudson. In case you’re drawing a blank, ramps are a type of wild onion and are a most ephemeral spring delicacy. Indulge in their pungent and therapeutic pleasure as ramps, abundant in the Hudson
Valley, will be center stage in original dishes created by chefs from upstate and Manhattan. Saturday, May 2, noon–4 p.m., The Basilica Hudson, 110 S. Front St., Hudson, NY. Tickets $30-$35. RampFestHudson.com
Compiled by Rowena Tsai & Channaly Philipp, Epoch Times Staff
Epoch Taste
D5 May 1–7, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Chris Christou Launches New Brunch at
NERAI Nerai
By Channaly Philipp Epoch Times Staff For a guy who says “I don’t do brunch,” Chris Christou does an impressive job of the brunch at Nerai, where he is the executive chef. With his résumé, it doesn’t come as a surprise. Christou worked as sous chef at Gordon Ramsay’s The London, and worked at Per Se, Corton with Paul Liebrandt, and with the opening team at Ai Fiori under Michael White, before landing at Nerai. At the elegant Midtown Greek restaurant, he executes Greek cuisine, applying to it the sensitivity and nuance of fine dining. The bloody mary is not to be missed—made with grilled tomatoes (not tomato juice!), Worcestershire, horseradish, and some secret ingredients. There’s also a nod to Greek mythology with the Persephone with prosecco, pomegranate, and St. Germain. (cocktails, $12). With brunch, classics get a little twist. I loved the Short Rib Hash ($22), with slow braised ribs, home fries, red pepper, and kefalograviera cheese. It may be hash, but there’s an authentic Hellenic taste that comes right through. Even though it’s one of the heartier brunch offerings, it is satisfying without being too heavy. It’s a good thing, because it leaves room to sample other dishes, like the
55 E. 54th St. (between Park and Madison avenues) 212-759-5554 NeraiNYC.com Open on Saturdays and Sundays for brunch wonderfully tender Grilled Octopus. Pairing it with chickpeas gives it a fresh, earthy anchor, but the real surprise in the dish are the capers. Coated lightly in flour and then fried, they liven up the dish and keep you going back for more ($24). I’d also recommend anything with feta, such as the Burrata Greek Salad ($22). It is impossibly smooth and the best feta that Christou could get his hands on outside of Greece. For dessert, get the Lavender Mousse, served with a pineapple carpaccio, lavender honey, and nuts ($12). The floral scent of lavender wasn’t, as I’d feared, anything like pot-pourri. It is subtle, gentle, and complements the tropical brightness of the pineapple beautifully. Nerai will also offer a Mother’s Day Brunch, including a longstemmed rose for moms, as well as a complimentary mimosa, bloody mary, or Persephone with each entree (May 10, between 11:30 a.m. and 3 p.m.)
Grilled Octopus. The bar at the entrance.
LOCAL, SEASONAL, MARKET FRESH FARE Chris Christou, executive chef at Nerai.
Openings around town
La Gamelle Brings Classic Regional French to Lower East Side WE WELCOME YOU TO COURTESY OF LA GAMELLE
Mathieu Palombino, known as the man behind Motorino Pizza, opened La Gamelle on April 22 on the Lower East Side. The menu at La Gamelle features a mix of classical and repertoire and comfort-driven regional specialties, such as escargots, watercress soup with crème fraîche and croutons, marinated smoked herring with potato salad, steak frites, duck confit, and housemade charcuterie. The wine list, mostly French, is extensive. There will also be wine and Champagne based cocktails, along with beer.
RESTAURANT You will love our warm atmosphere and our expertly prepared menu. We pay the utmost attention to every detail of your visit. From the hand crafted cocktails and specialty wine list, to our thoughtfully planned, market fresh and in-season dishes. Every dish, every cocktail is prepared from scratch and every detail is carefully thought out. We are always happy to customize any of your dining requests. NEW! Chef ’s Seasonal Tasting Menu
34 East 20th Street Located in Flatiron New York City
CountyNyc.com
COURTESY OF LA GAMELLE
La Gamelle
241 Bowery St. (at Stanton Street) 212-388-0052 LaGamelleNYC.com
(btwn Park and Broadway)
212.677.7771
Hours Sunday–Thursday 5 p.m.–midnight Friday & Saturday 5 p.m.–1 a.m.
Rosie’s Offers Mexican Fare in East Village Rosie’s
29 E. Second St. (at Second Avenue) 212-353-0114 Hours Daily 6 p.m.–11 p.m.
Rosie’s opened April 24 in East Village. Owner Marc Meyer, having spent a good amount of his free time learning about Mexican fare and traveling throughout the country. He hopes to bring forth the artisan appeal of crafting seemingly simple ingredients, along with creating vibrant and straightforward dishes using traditional techniques. The spacious 90-seat restaurant allows guests to sit around the comal and watch chefs cook an array of stews and broths. There will be assorted seafood in a smoky clam broth;
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seafood ceviches; freshly made tacos with al pastor, carne asada, mushroom, or beer-battered fish; and heartier dishes such as wholeroasted fish and chicken. No Mexican feast is complete without tequila. There will be classic margaritas (think of chipotle honey mango margarita), mezcal cocktails, and beer cocktails. More of a beer person? Don’t fret, there will be eight beers on tap, along with more than a dozen bottles to choose from.
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Compiled by Rowena Tsai, Epoch Times Staff
The freshest seafood, every day wner, Jesus Martinez, who comes from the O verdant province of Galicia in northwestern Spain, is most insistent on quality, and goes to pick out fish at the market every morning at 2:30 a.m.
• Enjoy fine cuisine from Spain made from authentic ingredients, elevated by exact and careful preparation.
ALCALA
Restaurant
(212) 370-1866 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com
D6 May 1–7, 2015
Epoch Taste www.TheEpochTimes.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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A Step Back in Time
Spinach and egg doughs fashioned into various pasta shapes at Villa Mosconi.
For Chef Pietro Mosconi, Pasta Making Is an Art estaurants in New York come and go. So usually when there’s one that’s endured for more than 30 years, it’s worth taking note. Villa Mosconi is such a place. It was started by a tight band of seven siblings from Italy. Don’t look for trendy here. It’s the antithesis of—and perhaps maybe also the antidote—to the hype of the moment. Small plates? Forget it. The portions are gigantic, and are served in deep dishes that feel like bottomless wells. Brussels sprouts and kale, no. Broccoli rabe and escarole, yes. And there’s not even delivery available (yet). What you get instead is satisfying oldfashioned charm, the kind that feels (almost) lost to a bygone era. Regulars are fussed over like family. John Ross, or “Red,” 82, has been walking over every day from his home on Sullivan Street since 2000— he sits at the bar as though he owns the place. And indeed, he’s often mistaken for the boss. And in turn, regulars fuss over the staff as if they were their own family, too. A couple once brought in an opera singer as a surprise to the staff. Opera Night has since become a yearly tradition, minus the surprise, of course. In its heyday, Villa Mosconi was a darling of the Wall Street and finance crowd. And it didn’t go unnoticed by A-listers who have come in (heavily disguised). A credit to his profession, co-manager Jerry Leonardi won’t let the word get out about the celebrities looking for some anonymity. What happens at the restaurant stays at the restaurant. Fresh Pasta The food hasn’t changed much either— and it’s a good thing. How much can you fiddle with pasta? Pietro Mosconi, the longtime chef, makes fresh pasta worth returning for again and again. He uses a Toresani machine from Milan to churn out sheets of pasta, and it is so old it could be considered an antique. “This machine is a really excel-
Don’t miss the Paglia e Fieno, literally “straw and hay.”
Pietro Mosconi, longtime chef at Villa Mosconi.
The Four Seasons Garden at the back of the restaurant is an undiscovered gem. Pollo Alla Mosconi.
Epoch Taste
D7 May 1–7, 2015
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We are proud to have been voted
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Making pasta is “all about confidence,� chef Pietro Mosconi said.
lent machine,� said Mosconi, who esteems it as much as a collector would. “They don’t make them like that anymore.� “When there’s too much sophistication, you cannot change things,� he added. The numbers on the dial that control the thickness have all but vanished. But it doesn’t matter. Mosconi could make pasta with eyes closed. He has been doing this for so long he does it by feel. He holds up a sheet of pasta, still so fresh and soft that its folds are reminiscent of those in the dresses chiseled in Renaissance sculptures. “It’s so beautiful,� he said. The spinach dough, in particular, is almost translucent. It’s elegantly marbleized, with streaks of dark green running against a light green background, like handcrafted Florentine paper. “It’s all about confidence, you know,� he added. He works like a master craftsman, neither fast nor slow, shaping pasta that will find new incarnations as agnolotti, taglierini, ravioli, cannelloni, tortellini, and fettuccine. Almost all of the entree pastas at Villa Mosconi consist of freshly made pasta, six days a week. If there’s one to try, it’s the Paglia e Fieno (literally straw and hay in Italian) ($15). Thin strands of egg dough pasta and spinach pasta are intermixed, bound together by cream, lots of cream (lots more than there is in the photo here, actually), and with the simple and perfect additions of peas and pancetta. It’s hard to imagine a better comfort food.
Mosconi holds up a sheet of pasta, still so fresh and soft that its folds are reminiscent of those in the dresses chiseled in Renaissance sculptures.
Villa Mosconi
69 MacDougal St. (near Houston Street) 212-673-0390 VillaMosconi.com
HAPPY HOUR Mon & Tues 4-8 pm
Hours Monday–Saturday noon–11 p.m.
2 for1
Beer or Wine
Closed Sundays
At Joy Burger Bar, we are all about customizing your burger experience. With 3 burger sizes to choose from and 9 sauces to complement your toppings, you will always get what you want. EnJOY!
Thirsty? Wash it all down with some house wine (carafe $25, half-carafe $13.50, by the glass $8).
Craft Beer # Wine # Fresh Salads # Hand Cut Fries
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You can also ask for a pasta sampler, which is a good way to taste Peter Mosconi’s pasta creations: Agnolotti, from the family’s native Emilia-Romagna, filled with chicken steak. Manicotti stuffed with ricotta cheese; gnocchi with pesto; spinach fettuccine with bolognese sauce. (Pasta dishes range between $14 and $17 at dinner; and for lunch average around $13–$14) Finish off with the housemade desserts, such as tiramisu or the Italian cheesecake— if you have any space left after all that delicious pasta. Most desserts range between $8.50 and $9.50. There are three separate dining rooms at Villa Mosconi, besides the bar at the entrance. If you have a chance and in warmer weather, opt for the Four Seasons Garden room out back. This undiscovered gem has the feel of a secret garden.
1567 Lexington Ave, New York (212) 289-6222
JoyBurgerBar.com
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them. Regulars often flock to Villa Mosconi’s bar.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Wall Street Journal, Good Day New York, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave,
(off SW corner of 31st St)
New York, NY 10001 (212)594-8939
Awarded
One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
*Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
Epoch Taste
D8 May 1–7, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
We speak to some of the thought leaders and visionaries in the food and dining industry today. You’ll encounter some fascinating people. Prepare to be surprised.
By Channaly Philipp Epoch Times Staff
Herb Karlitz on ... Bragging Rights, the Creative Process, and Foodie Rock Stars Herb Karlitz at Streetbird Rotisserie on April 23. COURTESY OF KARLITZ & COMPANY
Chef Daniel Boulud calls him “the wizard of marketing in America.” Herb Karlitz is the president of Karlitz & Company, which recently celebrated its 25th anniversary. He is coproducing Harlem EatUp! with chef Marcus Samuelsson. Karlitz sat down with us last week to talk shop. Bridging Food and Music
The wizard of marketing in America. Chef Daniel Boulud, on Herb Karlitz
Herb Karlitz with Lee Brian Schrager, founder of the South Beach Wine and Food Festival, at Flavor! Napa Valley. COURTESY OF KARLITZ & COMPANY
Contemporary Thai street food
NoodiesNYC.com 830 9th Ave Btw. 54th & 55th Street • 646-669-7828
&
Healthy Natural Homemade, All Natural Broth % Truly No MSG % Natural Umami Flavors % Noodles Made in Collaboration with Ippudo NYC % Vegan Options %
Masaharu Morimoto (2nd L) at one of the events produced by Karlitz & Company.
You sit back and say, ‘What would be cool?’ And if you think it’s cool, chances are, your clients are going to think it’s cool. Herb Karlitz
HINATA RAMEN
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
With that first South Beach festival in the ‘90s [“Feast on the Beach”] we were really ahead of our time. We had Roger Vergé from the south of France, one of the top chefs in the world — ever. Daniel Boulud studied under him, David Bouley studied under him. You imagine Vergé behind a table? In hindsight it makes no sense. Only a few years later [talent manager] Shep [Gordon] and I were doing an event in Colorado. Roger Vergé was cooking and Kenny Rogers was the entertainment. Shep and I went to pick Vergé from the airport. You know the hotel wouldn’t let him go through the front door of the hotel? He had to use the service entrance. We had created a CD with recipes from Vergé and music from Kenny. It was one of the first times of matching food and music and a tiein promotion. At the end of night, interestingly as many people wanted Verge’s autograph that wanted Kenny’s—including Kenny, who is a foodie. ... There was a benefit for [chef Kerry Simon in Las Vegas] and all these rock stars came. Alice Cooper, Sammy Haggar, Slash, Todd Rundgren. They’re on the bus from the hotel to where the gig was going to be—and they’re talking about Food Network and who saw what episode or what recipe. Todd Rundgren and Alice Cooper talking about who makes better chicken wings and this great recipe on Food Network. Think about that. … Sammy Davis Jr. loved food. He’d say, “Where are we going? I know Herb’s got the placed spec’d out for a quick bite” or “What’s coming on the plane with us?” I was the intermediary—between telling entertainers where they could have a good meal and a restaurant that was only too happy to have a celebrity come into their restaurant. I was a good matchmaker.
On the Creative Process
I can’t fix anything. I actually had trouble screwing on a lightbulb—that old joke. I screwed it wrong and ended up breaking both the bulb and the socket because part of it got stuck up there. But I can cook anything. I like it, and I like entertaining. I’m in a sweet spot, and everybody who works for Karlitz just lives and breathes food, and [the question is] “What would be the ultimate experience for this group of corporate clients or customers?” You sit back and say, “What would be cool?” And if you think it’s cool, chances are, your clients are going to think it’s cool. Conversely, when you have to sit in a room and you’re trying to rationalize it and you gotta convince yourself—it’s a bad thing. Move on. Abandon ship. You’re working too hard. Because if you can’t get it like that [snaps his fingers], how is anybody else going to get it? [Inspiration comes while] driving in the car, on planes, working out on the treadmill. I read some story that said creative juices really flow when you’re running, which I hate running. I hate it. But I do find that on my run (13:32) my mind thinks up a lot of stuff, and unfortunately when I get off the treadmill I retain maybe half of it.
Creating Experiences
You ever had a party at your house? What do you think about? What will entertain people? Why is it on a Monday night at 11:15 p.m. you walk into Red Rooster, and it’s four deep at the bar, like it’s a party? Because Marcus Samuelsson has made it this inviting drop-in [spot]. It’s not so much that formal dining has gone away. It’s that there’s an entertainment ele-
ment that all restaurateurs are recognizing they have to have. The only kind of restaurant I’m totally against are the ones where the chef says “No, sorry, no substitutions, this is the way it is. I’m an artist.” I get it. I call you an artist too. You’re an artist on the plate. But you’re here to entertain. The best example I can give you of someone who espouses that is Thomas Keller, of all people, who’s got more Michelin stars than anyone. He embraces six people coming to a table. One only eats glutenfree, one’s a vegetarian, one doesn’t drink, but they’re going to have a nine-course meal and have a beverage for each course. His job is to make them happy and he gets that.
Bragging Rights In the wine world there was no one more famous than Robert Parker. … I called up Parker and I said, “Bob, it’s a different time. People don’t need you and me to tell them to go buy Lafite Rothschild, this vintage, perfect 100. They don’t even feel comfortable buying it. They want to know what are your go-to half dozen whites and reds that are under $25. Do you get that the story is, what are you drinking? It’s about you, not the wine. These customers they’re going to take that tasting with you.” I call it bragging rights. They’re going back to their neighbors and say, “Oh, Bob Parker over dinner turned me on to this wine, and they’re going to buy 10 cases of it, and it’ll be their house red for the summer or their house white. They’re not buying a bottle. They’re buying 10 cases. That’s a story. They can now tell a story. If you can say, “Bob Parker turned me onto this wine’s, that’s sexy. That becomes an experience that only a person can do.” It is about exclusivity because it is telling a story that resonates, that’s something someone else can’t do.
‘The Devil Is in the Details’
Part of our job is to plan for every eventuality and every detail. We were planning something for a corporate client in New York. It was after dinner and seeing a show. [The client] says, “We’re going back to the Plaza Hotel. Do we have the Oak Bar?” It’s Saturday night—Do you have the Oak Bar? There’s 50 of them on the bus. I now ask prospective employees this question: “What do you do? They’re now all on the bus heading back to the Plaza Hotel. Do you divert them? Do you talk them out of it?” You do anything basically you need to, to get it done. What I did was, I put two of my people in a cab. So I took the two who I thought were my most presentable attractive presence personalities, put them in a cab, which would get them there faster than the bus. I told the bus driver to take the longest route he could find. I gave my two girls $1,000 and I said, “Do what you have to do to get 50 seats at the Oak Bar.” Now, when you think about it, the guy working the podium, he can’t wait to get off, he’s there for the money. For every chair he’s giving you you’re going to give him 50 bucks. Let him see the money. When the bus showed up, half the seats were already cleared out. They found a way to move some people. As people started filing in there was maybe a five-minute wait. It cost me $1,000. You gotta do what you gotta do. You can never have enough preparation and most important, with any event, any experience, any festival, what would you do if you were the guest? I don’t want to wait more than one minute on the line. I will not wait in line for food or drink—I just won’t. So why should I expect anyone else to do that? So you figure that out. You put a bar at the other side of the room, you pass hors d’oeuvres at first to relieve stations. There’s stuff you learn. It’s not just, we’re all so brilliant. The brilliance comes in knowing what you don’t know, and applying that axiom: put yourself in the customer’s position.
Taste Asia
D9 May 1–7, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com
We’re talking with Lily Ng Owner of May Wah, on 20 Years of Serving Vegetarians and Vegans in New York and Nationwide May Wah Vegetarian Market, New York’s holy grail of imitation meat, celebrates its 20th anniversary this Saturday and Sunday (May 2–3) noon–6 p.m. with discounts, free samples, and free gifts. Traditionally known for its frozen vegan meat substitutes, May Wah recently launched three new lines of products that do not require refrigeration, including vegan jerky. With the goal of providing vegetarian food for anyone and everyone, May Wah specializes in what owner Lily Ng calls “transitional” food products. By adding these meat alternatives to your diet, you can slowly transition from eating less meat to becoming fully vegetarian or vegan, if that is your objective. Ms. Ng spoke about May Wah’s different products and the growth of her family’s business within the past two decades. Epoch Times: How has the demand for your products evolved over the years?
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Lily Ng, owner of May Wah Vegetarian Market.
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chicken nuggets and citrus spareribs. Basically, our bestsellers are divided into two sections for two kinds of customers. One of them would be someone who likes to do their own thing [when it comes to cooking]. They’re chefs, they’re versatile, they like to add their own flavoring, so we give them plain versatile products. With the other kind, it’s easy to make with sauce included in the packet. All you have to do is heat [the packet] up by steaming it and then stir-fry for a couple of minutes. These would be spareribs, ginger chicken, and black pepper beef steak. And yes, these are all vegan. Epoch Times: How many of your products are vegan? Ms. Ng: Because people started getting more into veganism within the past five or so years, we started to work with a lot of companies to create vegan products. As of right now, we only have about three products that aren’t vegan. Everything else is vegan.
Lily Ng: In the beginning, vegetarian products weren’t that high in demand. A lot of people didn’t know about them since people were mainly just eating vegetables and plain tofu. When we first introduced our vegetarian products 20 years ago, it was really hard to convince people to try them out. It was pretty terrible the first three, four years. We lost a lot of business, we had to give out [samples] to let people experience and taste [our products] first. Things started picking up after year five or six. People started giving us a chance, to become more familiar with our products, and to trust us. Ever since then, our products have been flying off the shelves.
Japanese Chocolate at Its Finest Epoch Times Staff Royce’ is the Rolex of Japanese chocolate. The company’s international success can be attributed to its high quality and attention to detail, a trait of Japanese culture that certainly finds credence in brands like Royce’. The chocolate is made on the northernmost Japanese island of Hokkaido, where the region’s pure air and lush meadows produce Japan’s most sought-after dairy—an ingredient Royce’ gets fresh from its source. High-grade cacao is the other essential ingredient that makes Royce’ chocolate so exquisite. Creamy, with the right amount of sweetness and a long-lasting flavor, this is a chocolate brand for both the connoisseur and the average chocolate lover alike. Founded by Yasuhiro Yamazaki in 1983 in Sapporo, Japan, Royce’ has become an international sensation, with locations in Australia, Russia, Dubai, all over Asia, and now the United States. In the last two years, Royce’ has expanded from one storefront in New York City to three—a testament to the quality and creativity the
company brings to its craft. Walk into a Royce’ store and you’ll be faced with a range of mouthwatering options—from chocolate-coated almonds, to wafers, to glazed potato chips, and truffle-like chocolate bars. Most famous is the Nama chocolate—a chocolate that is so smooth and rich it feels more like soft caramel than chocolate. Nama means “fresh” or “raw” in Japanese, a name you will understand when it hits your taste buds. The most popular Nama flavor in New York is the green tea. It has a taste so authentic you can discern the full-bodied flavor of the maccha (aka “matcha”) in every bite. Second to the Green Tea Nama is the chocolate covered potato chip, which symbiotically combines the crunchiness of the chip with the sweetness and density of the chocolate. The green tea wafers take a page from the book of both creations, combining the light and crunchy wafer with a decadent coating of green tea chocolate that is sure to delight tea enthusiasts and chocolate lovers alike. For locations, visit RoyceConfectUSA.com COURTESY OF ROYCE’
Epoch Times: What have been the most popular products? Ms. Ng: Our most popular items are our May Wah features frozen vegan meat substitutes, as well as nonfrozen ones, like a new line of jerky.
Nama chocolate with champagne.
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Taste Asia
D10 May 1–7, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com ALL PHOTOS BY DAMIAN DOVARGANES/AP
Chef Niki Nakayama cuts fish at her n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles. She is one of six chefs to be profiled on Netflix’s documentary series “Chef’s Table,” which features some of the most innovative chefs cooking today.
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Celebrate with Us May Wah Vegetarian Market 20th Anniversary
Q: What was it like growing up as the daughter of Japanese immigrants working in the Los Angeles seafood industry?
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A: I started working with them since the age of 12 and my feeling was, “I really don’t like selling seafood.” It smelled funny and it was so cold inside and there were all these big fish all over. It was more scary than appealing. But one of the great things having grown up in a family that did seafood is we had the opportunity to try so many kinds of seafood.
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LOS ANGELES—Behind a set of shades hiding the dining room from the kitchen, chef Niki Nakayama wraps her fingers around a giant live scallop and gently pries open the shell. She takes a knife and trims out the sand-colored flesh inside. Later, she’ll pair it with kiwi, dill, and a beet and sorrel sauce with a ponzu base. It’s those unexpected, enticing combinations that have made Nakayama a standout in the culinary world. And later this month, she’ll stand out for yet another reason. She’s one of just six chefs to be profiled on Netflix’s first homegrown documentary series, “Chef’s Table,” which features some of the most innovative chefs cooking today. The show takes viewers inside Nakayama’s Los Angeles restaurant, n/naka, where she prefers to work out of view. That’s symptomatic of many years working in the world of sushi, where being a female chef brought unwanted attention. As one of only a handful of female Japanese chefs, she was seen as an oddity, even slighted by male patrons, including one who dismissed her work as “cute.” These days, the 40-year-old Los Angelesborn chef crafts intricate 13-course kaiseki meals, a Japanese tradition dating back to the 13th century that presents a conversing succession of raw heavy and light dishes, grilled, steamed, and fried offerings with an emphasis on local ingredients. Aside from her unusual pairings, she’s also known for her imaginative platings and attention to detail: The restaurant keeps track of everything customers eat to make sure they aren’t served the same meal twice. “If you come back and experience that same menu, that experience is going to go down,” Nakayama said. “We have to stay above that and keep them wondering.” Nakayama recently spoke with AP about kaiseki, the role Los Angeles plays in her cuisine, and stepping in front of the camera.
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Fanny Bay oyster, uni, trout roe, and fennel.
kaiseki. Even the writing of it is different in Japanese. The vegan style is still done today, but there’s a different version. It’s representative of a formal banquet where people sit and gather and there’s a lot of luxury, a lot of food that is very grand. You would say that’s the complete opposite of the original kaiseki. But the one thing they maintained in both philosophies is appreciation of nature, of seasons. There’s this underlying belief that we should protect the ingredient, preserve its natural flavors as much as possible. Q: What are you trying to express with any given plate? A: We try to showcase the colors of the seasons. For summer there’s a lot of green. For autumn, a lot more red and gold and brown. Winter is a lot of darker colors, more subdued. And springtime is bright, bright green. There’s a new beginning. When you experience kaiseki, you’re very attuned with what’s happening all around you. That’s a big thing about kaiseki. When you eat that meal, you automatically know, “This is spring. This is summer. Autumn. Winter.”
There’s this underlying belief that we should protect the ingredient, preserve its natural flavors as much as possible. Chef Niki Nakayama on the Japanese tradition of kaiseki
Q: Is your take on kaiseki influenced by your upbringing? A: Yes, definitely. I think when it’s a menu that’s created, it’s very representative of personal tastes and experience. When we go to eat at a traditional Japanese restaurant, of course, we don’t expect to eat pasta, but that is one of our more popular dishes here. It’s just because I personally love pasta and I think it’s wonderful to have the ability to put it on the menu. It’s definitely reflective of the things that I eat and I feel is really a
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One of chef Niki Nakayama’s vegetarian kaiseki plates, made with roaster cauliflower.
WE HAVE A SAYING AT OUR RESTAURANT: Chef Niki Nakayama (L) and assistant chef Carole Lida work on plating their kaiseki menu.
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One of chef Niki Nakayama’s modern kaiseki plates at her n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles.
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Katsu & Sake
Signature dishes you won’t find in other Japanese restaurants
good representation of having this Asian and American culture at the same time.
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Q: Do you think it has gotten easier to be a female sushi chef? A: That’s a difficult question. For me personally, I feel that I’ve been very fortunate in people’s opinion and people’s acceptance of n/naka. I feel like I’ve received a lot of positive feedback from people and it’s not so much an issue anymore that I’m a female chef doing this Japanese cuisine that’s traditionally male. I feel that people are very supportive of it and I’ve been very fortunate at this space. In terms of sushi, if I were to stand behind a sushi bar at this point, I don’t really know what people would think. I’m not 100 percent sure just yet.
The most special dish, reserved for special occasions across Japan. Try this amazing Pork Katsu at HanaMichi. Our unique preparation not only highlights pork, but also chicken, beef and vegetables! A dish worth gathering for!
Q: You’ve been known to keep a low profile. What was it like being in front of the camera? A: That was actually not as nerve wracking as I thought it would be. The director did an amazing job making all of us feel comfortable. And it seemed like such a wonderful opportunity to get what it is we’re doing out there for people to understand better. I feel a little bit disappointed when people come here and they automatically assume they’re at a sushi restaurant. Because what we are is not a sushi restaurant. It would be amazing for people to understand that with Japanese food, there’s so much more than sushi. This article has been edited for length and clarity. From The Associated Press
Pork Katsu
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Chef Niki Nakayama wraps her fingers around a giant live scallop.
“This is one of my favorite spots in K-town� – Zagat28 W 32nd Street, New York, NY 10001
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Taste Asia
D12 May 1–7, 2015
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thai
CICI’S FOOD PARADISE
the modern
The Happiness
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That Is Minced Pork With Thai Basil
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Minced pork with Thai basil, or pad krapow moo sap.
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Minced pork with Thai basil is one of the most popular dishes in Thailand.
By CiCi Li When I was growing up in Thailand, my stomach usually rumbled after a long day at elementary school. My favorite spot to grab something and to fill my tiny belly up was a tiny street food cart near school. And my favorite dish? Minced pork with Thai basil. Minced pork with Thai basil or pad krapow moo sap is one of the most popular dishes in Thailand. It’s usually served on a pile of hot jasmine rice and topped with a sunny side up fried egg with the yolk still runny. It’s savory, spicy, and fragrant of garlic and Thai basil. Thai basil is a little different from Italian basil (sweet basil). It has an aniselike aroma and is slightly spicy. It also has smaller and narrower leaves, purple stems, and purple flowers that spread out like leaves. To refresh my old childhood memories, I asked Seksan Narkwong, one of the partners behind Sookk restaurant, to teach me his recipe for minced pork with Thai basil. Sookk, located on the Upper West Side of New York City, means happiness in Thai. “We want to make people happy with our food.� Narkwong explained. He raised both eyebrows, opened his eyes wide, and looked at me with surprise when I spoke Thai to him—or at least I tried to. It seemed like my Thai language’s speaking capability is knocking at the door, but somehow just couldn’t fully get in. I love this recipe. The Thai basil in the recipe really makes a big difference. My childhood memories poured right back. It’s very comforting. It’s a dish that made me happy then, makes me happy now, and continues to make me happy whenever I eat it. Happy eating! CiCi Li is the presenter of “CiCi’s Food Paradise� on NTD Television. She’s also a television host, food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventure and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise� at CiCiLi.tv
Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
RECIPE HAPPY MINCED PORK WITH THAI BASIL
Serve over hot jasmine rice.
Prep and cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 2 servings
INGREDIENTS • 1/2 pound minced pork (or minced chicken or beef) • 1 egg • 4 tablespoons oil • 1 red chilies, minced • 1 clove garlic, minced • 1 tablespoon fish sauce • 1 ⠄2 cup Thai basil leaves
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
DIRECTIONS In a hot pan, add the oil and stirfry garlic and chili until fragrant. Add pork and continue to stir-fry
on medium heat until almost cooked. Flavor with fish sauce, then add fresh Thai basil, and stirfry for a few seconds. Serve on a plate. In the same pan, add 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Crack an egg into the pan and fry until the white part is set, but the yolk is still soft. Pile the egg over the minced basil pork. Serve over hot jasmine rice. Recipe from Seksan Narkwong, Sookk restaurant