D1 May 15–21, 2015
Burgers & Beer Served With a Side of Nostalgia We’re eating
RIBS with secret sauce.
D12
Go Bunless
with the Black Tap Burger Salad with bacon.
Delicious Stuff
Craving something citrusy? Get the
it’s what happens when a Michelin-starred chef starts making burgers the way he likes them.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Yuzu-Lemon cocktail.
The Californian burger, with organic turkey, avocado, truffle mayo, and lots of Swiss cheese.
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
ou only have to spend a few afternoon hours at Black Tap to know that burgers and beer bring the whole world together. There’s pretty much one seating option at this SoHo 18-seater: at the lunch counter. On this particular afternoon, sitting next to me was a dapper young man in a suit, impeccably accessorized—pocket square neatly folded. Next to him were a couple of guys nursing their beers and watching the Bayern Munich-Barcelona game. Next to them was a young couple with a 5-month-old who made meowing sounds occasionally. And down the line to the end: a lone gentleman and a group of four young friends.
See Burgers & Beer on D3
Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer
529 Broome St. (Between Sullivan & Thompson streets) 917-639-3089 BlackTapNYC.com Hours Monday–Wednesday 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Thursday–Saturday 11:30 a.m.–midnight Sunday 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m.
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Judging the Ripeness of Grapes Then and Now
Before ripeness sets, the grapes are hard and green with low sugar levels and very high levels of mostly malic acid. During ripening, sucrose produced by photosynthesis is transferred to the berries and How do is broken down into glucose and fructose viticulturists and molecules (sugars) in the berries. In the winemakers assess past, depending on what style of wine the ripeness was being produced, only the balance of grapes? between the sugars—which eventually will become alcohol when yeasts ferment the grape must (juice)—and the acidity of the grape juice was taken into consideration. Currently, viticulturists and winemakers are focusing on the concept of achieving complete physiological ripeness of the grapes, or “phenolic ripeness.” The process is described as a more complete ripeness of tannins, mineral components, and volatile compounds in the skin and pulp of the grapes that contribute to the color, flavor, and aroma of a wine in addition to the conversion of the sucrose into the simpler sugars. ELENATHEWISE/ISTOCK
Wine and Our Changing Climate By Manos Angelakis It has been confirmed. Warmer vineyard temperatures result in bigger and bolder red wines with higher alcohol. Worldwide, most winemaking areas have seen improved maturation of grapes leading to better vintages more often than in the past. Short-term effects on the global wine industry have been a boon. We are seeing many bright, ripe, fruity wines—more than ever before. We’ve had more good vintages in the past 10 years than we used to see 25 to 40 years ago. My travels through Europe’s better wine producing areas—Catalonia, Aragon, and Andalusia in Spain; Portugal, Tuscany, and Piedmont in Italy; Burgundy, Roussillon, and the Loire Valley in France; the Olympus and Southern Rhodope regions in northern Greece; the northern Rhodope slopes in Bulgaria—have persuaded me that any growers that do not embrace a new approach to their vineyard management are heading for disaster. The problem is that in the wine consuming countries, very high alcohol wines—above 15 percent ABV—are starting to be shunned by the aficionados—the individuals that, because of their love of good wine, have become leaders on consumption trends. Wines are supposed to be grown in the vineyard first and then finished in the winery. Today’s high alcohol wines have been caused by many winemakers’ focus on phenolic ripeness. Growing balanced grapes where phenolics and grape sugars mature in conjunction with the proper proportion of natural acidity is a very complicated and meticulous process. It is far easier to target a phenolic number and then adapt the grape juice in the winery than to tackle Mother Nature’s variables every year. That style of winemaking doesn’t require a talented winemaker. High alcohol levels numb the taste buds when these wines are consumed, making a normally flavored wine taste watery so the winemaker has to adjust the mouthfeel of a high-alcohol wine. As far as I’m concerned, these are the
Wines are supposed to be grown in the vineyard first and then finished in the winery. Today’s high alcohol wines have been caused by many winemakers’ focus on phenolic ripeness.
REFINED
Ancient principles of Greek cuisine combined with modern techniques, yield a harmonious balance of flavors in every dish, at Nerai.
55 East 54th Street New York (646)844-2275 www.nerai.nyc
alcohol limits I prefer when it comes to monovarietal wines (wines made from a single grape variety): Most cabernet sauvignons over 14.5 percent are just too hot and too uninteresting. The grapes get to be so ripe that they lose their complexity. Merlot should be about 13 percent to about 14.5 percent. Merlot grapes need to be ripe, but the wine should be soft and approachable. Pinot noir, about 12.5 percent to about 14.2 percent. A very ripe, boozy pinot is sometimes hard to distinguish from a low quality grenache. This upper limit cuts off some California and Oregon Pinots, but if I want a red wine that big, I’ll ask for a Grenache based one. Syrah should be about 12.5 percent to about 15.5 percent. Grenache (garnacha) grapes can handle heat. I’ll drink a wine from about 13 percent—when it tends to be light and spicy—to as high as 16 percent, when it’s ripe, aromatic, and full-bodied. Some of the best Catalan garnachas fall into the high end, and they are delightful. So do carignan-based wines, a grape most usually paired with syrah or grenache, or both. At a maximum of 15 percent alcohol, it is a delight to drink. White wines, depending on variety, should have alcohol between 7 percent (German riesling) to, at most 13 percent (Chilean sauvignon blanc). In my opinion, multivarietal blends are at this point much better for consumption, especially when drinking wines without high expectations, because the differing characteristics of the blend components and the proportions of each component create a better tasting wine no matter what the alcohol content is. To your health. Manos Angelakis is a well-known wine and food critic based in the New York City area. He has been certified as a Tuscan wine master, by the Tuscan Wine Masters Academy, as well as being an expert on Greek, Chilean, and Catalan wines. He judges numerous wine competitions each year and is the senior food and wine writer for LuxuryWeb Magazine, LuxuryWeb.com.
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Chef loves his burger.
The Californian, with organic turkey and hand cut fries.
BLACK TAP BURGER
Burgers & Beer, Served With a Side of Nostalgia Burgers & Beer continued from D1 That lunch counter, where folks from different walks of life sit side by side, united by their love for burgers and beer, is an updated fixture right out of chef Joe Isidori’s childhood. The Michelin-starred chef came from a family of Italian-American cooks and chefs, as far back as three generations, where cooking and eating has always been a way of life. But on some days, “when mom or grandma didn’t want to cook” they’d head to the lunch counter. On the wall, Isidori put up a neon sign of Miller High Life up. Immediate association? His grandmother. “My grandmother drank two things: Miller High Life and Asti Spumante.” He remembers as a child hand rolling pasta with her while she had sips of Miller High Life. Isidori’s trajectory has been a fascinating one to watch. He became executive chef at age 22; went to work for Trump International at 25, and earned a Michelin star by age 30. “I came up in the world of champagne of roses. The economy was great. It was only fine dining,” he said. The concept for Black Tap had been percolating through Isidori’s mind for some time. “The best ideas happen by accident you know,” he said. He had a restaurant in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, called Arthur on Smith. There he developed an Italian-style sausage burger with some handcut fries, sauces, and sold it for $18 with an ice cold beer. “It got to the point where I was only doing business at the bar,” he said. He offered his sausage burger at a community street fair; $9 for a burger and a beer. Soon after he set up his grill and umbrella he had 150 people in line. “I was looking at my sous chef and said, ‘Just keep cooking.’ That’s when the lightbulb went off: This is what people want.” The Burgers The burger menu has something for everyone, from beef patties (a blend of brisket and chuck), organic turkey, grass-fed lamb, to falafel. But still Isidori had his requirements. You gotta love a man with strong opinions about his burgers. First off, the bun. “It had to be a Martin’s potato roll, hands down. It’s the best bun there is. The burger with dry brioche—it’s a fad. A chef likes a burger that comes off the grill with double American cheese on a Martin’s potato roll, period,” he said. The cheese also loves the burger. It covers the burger, top and sides, and by looks alone, you can’t tell what kind of burger it is. Don’t want the bun? You can just have a burger salad. The burgers normally come with handcut fries. Isidori doesn’t try to mess around with his fries with cheese or truffle or novelty toppings. If you’re more of the onion rings type, don’t miss those. The onions are first tamed by a bath in buttermilk before being battered (including a secret ingredient) and then fried ($4). One surprise: the burgers don’t need extra seasoning. Sure, on the table you’ve your Heinz
A chef likes a burger that comes off the grill with double American cheese on a Martin’s potato roll, period. Joe Isidori
ketchup and Guilden’s spicy brown mustard, and Frank’s RedHot. But Isidori’s also complemented each burger with its own sauce. Among them “the special sauce”: Thousand Islands dressing with Korean pepper, chipotle, and Worcestershire. I tried a handful of burgers at Black Tap, and my favorite beef burger was the Greg Norman, with Wagyu beef, a dressing of buttermilk and dill, offset by just the lightest touch of blue cheese, and served with arugula (it is the priciest of the bunch at $18). Burger heaven, here I come. For something different, try the Spicy Mexican, a chorizo burger with jack cheese, pico de gallo, and chipotle mayo ($12). For sides, try the Crispy Brussels sprouts ($7) served with a sesame tahini sauce (or if you’re like me, you just do without the sauce anyway), and a terrific Mexican Avocado salad with pico de gallo and cilantro, what makes this dish is the pink bits of spicy pickled onions ($6). Beer offerings include old school beers like Miller High Life of course ($5), but also craft beers on tap, including Brooklyn Summer Ale ($7) and Ommegang Witte ($7). If you have any room after all that (hats off to you), you can indulge in some more nostalgia and top off with an Oreo or Nutella milkshake.
Natural
The neon sign says it all. If it doesn’t scream nostalgia, we don’t know what does. “My grandmother drank two things: Miller High Life and Asti Spumante,” Isidori said.
! Isidori’s been cooking with Asian flavors most of his career. Watch the master at work at
Taste Asia! on June 26-27 in Times Square! TasteAsia.org
has a new flavor Our sauces are handcrafted and brewed in Hudson Valley NY. We use water sourced from the pristine Catskill Mountain range for flavor you won’t find elsewhere.
OFFICIAL SOY SAUCE OF
Wan Ja Shan offers a variety of preservative-free, gluten-free, 100 percent naturally brewed, flavorful organic sauces.
“Best Organic Soy Sauce” -Food and Wine Magazine
Find us at Whole Foods and other fine grocery stores. Black Tap carries old school classics as well as craft beers.
Chef and owner Joe Isidori.
www.wanjashan.com
A proud sponsor of Simply Ming. Chef Ming Tsai’s TV series.
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TANYA BLUM
HARLEM EATUP! The food scene is about to explode in Harlem. Join Harlem EatUp!’s four-day festival to see and taste what the fuss is all about. Harlem’s food, art, and culture converge at The Stroll (May 16, Morningside Park, $75– 150 for tastings). Culinary demonstrations, by chefs including Marcus Samuelsson, Ludo Lefebvre, and Scott Conant, are free. For dinner parties, check out Dine in Harlem and hear what tastemakers are discussing at Harlem Talks. This is a festival you don’t want to miss.
stuff to eat and drink around town
The All New
DIG IN
. It’s what’s new and good in NYC.
Thursday to Sunday, May 14–17. Participating locations in Harlem. Ticket prices vary. HarlemEatUp.com
Streetbird Rotisserie in Harlem.
LOCAL, SEASONAL, MARKET FRESH FARE
THE GREAT BIG BACON PICNIC Bacon cravings? Join The Great Bacon Picnic, an indoor and outdoor festival, with over 100 chefs, restaurants, food trucks, brewmasters, and distillers as they shower you with unlimited bite-sized bacon dishes, spirits, and local craft beers. This festival alone should be able to satisfy your bacon cravings for the coming weeks, or at least days. Mischief managed. Saturday, May 16, 12 p.m. or 6:30 p.m. Sunday, May 17, 1 p.m. The Old Pfizer Factory, 630 Flushing Ave., Brooklyn. Tickets $99–$249. TheGreatBigBacon.com COURTESY OF JACK BERMAN
TASTE OF TRIBECA Tribeca is putting on a culinary show with Taste of Tribeca. The event will feature dishes from over 60 neighborhood restaurants, from Acappella to Zucker’s Bagels & Smoked Fish, and include American Cut, Bouley, Daruma-Ya, and White Street. Also on the menu for the day: wine and beer tours of local shops and pubs, family-friendly Kids’ and Sports Zones, and live entertainment. Proceeds benefit arts and enrichment programs at PS 150 and PS 234.
Taste of Tribeca 2014. MICHAEL TULIPAN
WE WELCOME YOU TO RESTAURANT You will love our warm atmosphere and our expertly prepared menu. We pay the utmost attention to every detail of your visit. From the hand crafted cocktails and specialty wine list, to our thoughtfully planned, market fresh and in-season dishes. Every dish, every cocktail is prepared from scratch and every detail is carefully thought out. We are always happy to customize any of your dining requests.
TASTE OF SUNNYSIDE
NEW! Chef ’s Seasonal Tasting Menu
34 East 20th Street Located in Flatiron New York City
CountyNyc.com
(btwn Park and Broadway)
212.677.7771
JAVELINA’S SATURDAY BRUNCH
Javelina Chilaquiles.
Ever wake up on a Saturday morning craving breakfast tacos, migas, and spicy micheladas? Now you can satisfy your Tex-Mex breakfast cravings at Javelina. Javelina’s brunch menu includes sharable starters like the Kolache Basket with an assortment of traditional sweet Tex-Czech pastries; Biscuits and Jalapeño Sausage Gravy; hearty fare like Steak Fajitas & Eggs; along with build-your-own breakfast tacos. Yes, you heard correctly—build-yourown breakfast tacos. As expected, Bloody Mary, Maria, and Michelada will all be present for brunch in the form of vodka, tequila, or beer (respectively) with tomato juice and hot sauce. Brunch 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m. Javelina: 119 E. 18th St. (between Park Avenue South & Irving Place) 212-539-0202. JavelinaTexMex.com
NEW TASTE OF UWS Taste of Upper West Side returns for its eighth run with an exciting line-up of new and returning restaurants, world-class chefs, and celebrity hosts for a three-night culinary celebration.
The freshest seafood, every day
O
wner, Jesus Martinez, who comes from the verdant province of Galicia in northwestern Spain, is most insistent on quality, and goes to pick out fish at the market every morning at 2:30 a.m.
• Enjoy fine cuisine from Spain made from authentic ingredients, elevated by exact and careful preparation.
ALCALA
Restaurant
Saturday, May 16, 11:30 a.m.– 3 p.m. Duane Street (between Greenwich & Hudson). Tickets $45. TasteOfTribeca.com
(212) 370-1866 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com
Soirée in the Park: Enjoy live chamber music under the stars with champagne and hors d’oeuvres provided by local restaurants including Sarabeth’s and Luke’s Lobster. The outdoor cocktail event celebrates and raises funds for New York City’s Theodore Roosevelt Park. All net proceeds from the evening will be donated for park enhancements. Wednesday, May 27, 7:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Theodore Roosevelt Park. Tickets $150.
Comfort Classics Presented by Sysco: Forty Upper West Side restaurants, including Momofuku Milk Bar, Shake Shack, and The Meatball Shop, will display their most innovative and creative “home-style” fare, while competing to win the title of Best Comfort Food Dish. Hosted by NBC’s Adam Richman. There will also be sensational international wine selections, creative cocktails, and live music. Friday, May 29, 7 p.m.–10 p.m. Columbus Avenue between W. 76th and 77th streets. Tickets $105.
Best of the West Presented by Tri-State Ford: Many of the Upper West Side’s most famous restaurants and celebrity chefs are the focus of an evening centered on spectacular cuisine, world-class wines, and enticing cocktails. Saturday, May 30, 7:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Columbus Avenue, between W. 76th and 77th streets. Tickets $135.
If you’re looking to enjoy a beautiful evening of the warm spring winter filled with fun, food, and entertainment, look no further. Taste of Sunnyside is an outdoor food festival that will feature some of the best of Sunnyside’s restaurants, celebrating the diverse and unique food of its neighborhood. Tuesday, May 19, 5:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Queens Boulevard (at 46th Street). Tickets $35–$60. SunnySideShines.org/Taste-Sunnyside
Javelina now serves brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
Compiled by Rowena Tsai Epoch Times Staff
COURTESY OF KEN GOODMAN
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Openings around town EVAN SUNG
Carciofi e Misticanze salad (artichokes and greens). EVAN SUNG
MAMO
323 W. Broadway (Between Grand & Canal streets) 646-964-4641 MamoNYC.com
Mamo’s main dining room.
MAMO Italian Provençal From French Riviera Opens in SoHo MAMO, an outpost of 23-year-old French Riviera, opened last Friday in SoHo. The original restaurant, Mamo Le Michelangelo, was opened by Herve “Mamo” Mammoliti in Antibes, France, in 1992. MAMO, the Italian Provençal restaurant run by Mammoliti’s son, will be bringing renowned family recipes and authenticity across the Atlantic to New York City. Chef Massimo Sola (formerly of Eataly Roma) is helming the kitchen. The essentially Italian menu includes the expected pizzas, stuffed vegetables, and seafood pastas. The menu also features recipes that have been passed down in the Mammoliti family for generations, including the Vitello Tonnato, veal with a creamy tuna sauce ($18); Raviolini al Tartufo, truffle ravioli ($24); and Osso Buco on mashed potatoes ($26). There will also be signature cocktails like the Italian Mule and an extensive wine list with varieties from California, France, and Italy.
Coffee Bruins, a pop-up in Midtown.
New Pop-Up Coffee Bruins Artisanal coffee and green food coffeehouse concept Coffee Bruins has just popped up for the next eight months. Find a fun, communal atmosphere (with ping pong and bean bag chairs—need we say more?), and some serious coffee. Made with locally roasted beans from the Pulley Collective in Red Hook, an incubator for young coffee artisans. Chef Jennifer Sweenie rounds out the menu with veggie-focused offerings.
Coffee Bruins COURTESY OF LE DISTRICT
Le District Garden Now Open The final “district” of Le District at Brookfield Place is now open. The 30,000-square-foot dining destination just unveiled the Garden District. There guests can shop for fresh produce as well as French imports, including jars of hand-rolled Tunisian couscous and the Theodor Tea line from Paris, exclusive to Le District in the United States. The Delices du Chef offers a rotating menu of over 50 grab-and-go entrees, including a very traditional Boeuf Bourguinon and layered Gratin Dauphinois. And watch out for the 4 p.m. hour! That’s when the salad bar becomes a chocolate mousse bar. Eight different types of mousse will be offered, including white chocolate and dark, ranging from 46 percent to 72 percent cocoa, with toppings from orange confit to speculoos cookies.
1250 Broadway (Between 31st & 32nd streets) 917-933-5875 CoffeeBruins.com COURTESY OF COFFEE BRUINS
Le District
Brookfield Place 225 Liberty St. LeDistrict.com COURTESY OF LE DISTRICT
The Garden District offers fresh produce, prepared foods, and a chocolate mousse bar.
Vendy Plaza Returns to East Harlem’s La Marqueta On May 17, Vendy Plaza brings back its delicious lineup of local street food for a second season to the historic open-air marketplace La Marqueta. Created by the Vendy Awards, the weekly event runs every Sunday noon–6 p.m. through Sept. 9. The lineup includes local vendors, Vendy Award finalists, as well as live music inspired by El Barrio. Expect good eats from vendors including Lechonera La Pirana, Khao Man Gai NY, Solber Pupusas, and Booqoo Beignets.
In Celebration of Epoch Taste, We’re Giving Away
600
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In Gift Cards to Whole Foods
Vendy Plaza
Park Avenue (Between 115th & 116th streets) VendyAwards.StreetVendor.org/Plaza
Spring 3-Course Dinner Compiled by Rowena Tsai & Channaly Philipp, Epoch Times Staff
Enter at EpochTaste.com/Win View contest rules on EpochTaste.com/Win Sweepstakes ends 6/1/2015
Monday - Thursday, 4pm - close, $39
37 Barrow Street, New York, (212) 255 5416 DuetNy.com
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A Trick for Keeping Spring Lamb Burgers From Tasting Gamy
Better
Than Bagels
By Melissa D'Arabian No meat says spring quite like lamb. When I lived in France, the seasonality of meats such as lamb was celebrated. Rarely have I tasted lamb so mild and sweet as the first cuts of spring lamb from the south of France. While healthier cooks tend to limit red meat, happily there is a place for lamb on the healthy plate! While animal proteins bring saturated fats to the table, only about half of lamb's fat is saturated. And lamb is full of protein, which means even a few ounces of it can be filling. A 4-ounce raw portion has just about 200 calories, which means it's easy to celebrate spring with an evening of juicy, tasty lamb. I love lamb that isn't gamey, so I tend to do one of two things. I either buy tender baby lamb racks, then season them with garlic, mustard, and herbs before roasting them (delicious, but pricey), or I buy less expensive ground lamb and make patties or burgers. And let me tell you, these burgers are amazing. To keep the lamb burgers extra mild, I often mix in another variety of ground meat, usually turkey or lean beef. I add just enough to take the gamey edge o the lamb. The result is a perfect flavor that reminds me of a French springtime supper. This lamb burger recipe screams spring with a dose of seasonal peppery watercress (a healthy green!) and a creamy fresh mint and shallot sauce that is spooned onto the still-sizzling patties when they are placed on the buns. Full of flavor and just a bit indulgent, these lamb burgers are a celebration indeed.
Often called a “Turkish bagel,� Simit are softer and lighter on the inside and crunchier on the outside.
Each SIMIT + SMITH simit is hand-rolled at our local factory and always freshly baked with no preservatives. We also serve
Salads, Sandwiches, Turkish Tea and Coffee
124 W. 72nd St, New York
3 212-496-6605
111 Worth St, New York
3 212-374-1224
11 Waverly Place, New York 3 212-784-0657 1400 Broadway, New York 4 Convenient Locations!
3 212-398-0098
SIMITANDSMITH.com
We are proud to have been voted
BEST DINER IN NYC by residents and businesses in lower east manhattan
From The Associated Press
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!
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This lamb burger recipe screams spring with a dose of seasonal peppery watercress.
RECIPE
% !
! " % $
LAMB BURGERS WITH WATERCRESS AND CREAMY MINT SAUCE
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Prep & cooking: 25 minutes Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS • 3/4 pound ground lamb • 1/2 pound 93 percent lean ground beef • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • Garlic powder • 1/3 cup light mayonnaise • 1/2 cup low-fat plain Greek yogurt • 1/4 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped • 1 small shallot, roughly chopped • 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
$10 Beer & Burger Monday to Friday Special 3-7pm.
Remedy Diner Open 24 Hours 245 East Houston Street New York (212) 677-5110
• 4 burger buns, toasted • 6-inch segment of an English cucumber, thinly sliced • 1 large tomato, sliced and salted • 2 cups watercress
DIRECTIONS In a large bowl, gently combine the lamb and ground beef until mixed. Form the mixture into 4 patties, then season them with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Heat a grill or large grill pan to mediumhigh. Lightly oil the grill grates using an oil-soaked paper towel held with tongs, or coat a grill pan with cooking spray. Add the burgers and cook for 8 to 10 minutes (for medium), flipping them after 4 minutes. Meanwhile, make the mint sauce. In a blender, combine the mayonnaise,
yogurt, mint, shallot, and Worcestershire sauce. Blend until creamy. To assemble the burgers, divide the cucumber slices between the buns, then set a burger on top. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the mint sauce onto each burger, then top with a tomato slice and watercress.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 450 calories; 190 calories from fat (42 percent of total calories); 21 g fat (7 g saturated; 0.5 g trans fats); 95 mg cholesterol; 28 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 37 g protein; 730 mg sodium. Food Network star Melissa d'Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook "Supermarket Healthy."
RemedyDinerNyc.com
You Need This One-Pan Approach to Getting Dinner Done Fast By Sara Moulton
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Wall Street Journal, Good Day New York, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave,
(off SW corner of 31st St)
New York, NY 10001 (212)594-8939
Awarded
One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
*Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
As kitchen wisdom goes, I often think the best tricks are the simplest. One-pan cooking, for example. The ability to cook an entire meal on a single rimmed sheet pan—an act that leaves you with nothing but that one pan to clean when dinner's over—to me is nothing short of magic. And the secret to making it work really is just a matter of organizing the order in which each ingredient lands on the baking sheet to ensure each gets neither too little nor too much time in the oven. And this recipe for baked steelhead trout with asparagus and potatoes will show you just how easy that is. We start by seasoning all the parts individually at the beginning of the cooking process, not the end. If you wait until the end, the salt won't do its job, which isn't only to contribute saltiness, but to enhance the flavor of the ingredient to which it's added. In practice, salt doesn't so much amplify flavor as tamp down bitterness, thus allowing a food's other flavors— notably its sweetness or sourness—to shine. First in the oven is the asparagus so that it can be properly cooked and lightly browned all by itself and without crowding. Any time you want to brown a vegetable in the oven, you must make sure to spread it out across the pan in a single layer. Then the asparagus takes a break and the potatoes go in. Finally the fish comes into play. Lay it right on top of the now-browned
potatoes and bake it until tender on the oven's middle shelf. How do you know when the fish is done? When a knife slides in with little resistance, the fish is good to go. Butter and herbs are this recipe's crowning touch. The hot fish melts the butter, creating a kind of instant sauce. Simple, right? Delicious, too. And just one pan to clean up. Now that's my kind of meal. From The Associated Press
Butter and herbs are this recipe's crowning touch.
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CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE Perfect for picky eaters.
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
Frittatas: The Ultimate HaveIt-Your-Way Weeknight Dinner By J.M. Hirsch Frittatas are like quiches without crusts, and that makes them an ideal fast and simple weeknight dinner. They also are the ultimate have-it-your-way meal, and that makes it easy to feed a family of—inevitably— picky eaters. You all get to enjoy the same meal at the same time, but you aren't all wedded to the same ingredients. To make multiple variations of frittatas for the same meal, I just break it down into multiple pans. So rather than cook one large frittata as described in this recipe,
RECIPE PEPPER STEAK FRITTATA Prep & cooking: 20 minutes Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • •
12 eggs (or 2 1/4 cups liquid egg whites) 1/4 cup milk Kosher salt and ground black pepper 1 large yellow onion, thinly sliced 1 large green bell pepper, cored and thinly sliced 5 ounces sliced mushrooms 1 pound shaved steak (also called minute steak) 1 teaspoon garlic powder 1 teaspoon dried thyme 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese Hot sauce, to serve
I divide the recipe between a handful of small skillets, allowing me to customize each—sausage for my son, vegetables for myself, etc. You can add any combination of vegetables and meat to a frittata. The trick is to make sure everything is cooked before the eggs go in the pan. So if you want mushrooms and onions, they go in the skillet first and cook until nicely browned. Then you season the veggies and add the eggs and any cheese you want. If you skip this step, the vegetables will be undercooked and watery.
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From The Associated Press
In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and milk. Season with about 1 teaspoon of salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Set aside. Coat a large, deep oven-safe skillet with cooking spray. Heat over medium-high, then add the onion, pepper, and mushrooms. Saute until lightly browned and the mushrooms have released their liquid, 7 to 8 minutes. Add the steak and brown for another 6 to 7 minutes. Season with garlic powder and thyme, then spread the steak and vegetables evenly in the pan. Pour the eggs into the pan, tilting it gently as needed to distribute them. Cook, without stirring, for 3 minutes, or until the bottom begins to set. Sprinkle the cheese over the eggs, then set the skillet on the oven's middle rack. Bake for 10 minutes, or until puffed and browned. Turn off the oven and let the frittata rest inside it for 4 minutes. Drizzle with hot sauce, if desired, then slice into wedges and serve.
NUTRITION INFORMATION
Heat the oven to 450 F.
Nutrition information per serving: 320 calories; 140 calories from fat (44 percent of total calories); 16 g fat (6 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 485 mg cholesterol; 10 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 3 g sugar; 35 g protein; 740 mg sodium.
RECIPE
teaspoons of the oil and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Spread the potatoes in an even layer. Bake on the oven's top rack until barely golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and reduce the temperature to 400 F.
DIRECTIONS
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
WE MAKE GREAT PIZZA YOU’LL MAKE GREAT FRIENDS We are the most social pizza place around, come hang out with us, we are open every day until 5 am! FOR MORE THAN 18 YEARS, East Village Pizza & Kebab has been serving the best Italian pizza, fine Italian dishes, remarkable kebabs and falafels in the East Village.
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BAKED STEELHEAD TROUT WITH ASPARAGUS, POTATOES, AND HERBS Prep & cooking: 50 minutes (30 minutes active) Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS • 1 1/2 bunches asparagus (about 1 1/2 pounds), tough ends discarded and stems peeled if thicker than 1/3 inch • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided • Salt and ground black pepper • 1 1/4 pounds Yukon Gold or large boiling potatoes, sliced crosswise 1/4 inch thick (leave the skins on) • 1 1/2 pounds skinned steelhead trout, divided into 4 portions • 1 tablespoon lemon juice • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into thin slices • 1/4 cup chopped fresh herbs, such as dill, chives, tarragon, basil or a mix
DIRECTIONS
Arrange the fish pieces in one layer on top of the potatoes, sprinkle them with the lemon juice, drizzle with the remaining 2 teaspoons of oil, then season with salt and pepper. Set the pan on the oven's middle shelf and bake for 5 minutes. Add the asparagus to the sheet pan and bake another 2 to 3 minutes, or until the fish is just cooked through. Transfer the fish to 4 serving plates and top each portion with a few slices of butter. Transfer a quarter of the potatoes and asparagus to each of the plates, then sprinkle the herbs over each serving.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 470 calories; 220 calories from fat (47 percent of total calories); 24 g fat (7 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 100 mg cholesterol; 30 g carbohydrate; 6 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 36 g protein; 430 mg sodium. Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television's "Sara's Weeknight Meals" and has written three cookbooks, including "Sara Moulton's Everyday Family Dinners."
Heat the oven to 450 F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil. On the prepared baking sheet, toss the asparagus with 2 teaspoons of the oil and a generous pinch each of salt and pepper. Spread the asparagus in an even layer. Bake on the oven's top rack until starting to brown and are crisp-tender, about 7 minutes for thicker asparagus, 3 minutes for thin asparagus. Transfer to a plate and set aside. On the baking sheet, toss the potatoes with another 2
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Plantains.
Tostones Eggs Benedict With Cilantro Sauce.
Looks Like a Banana, but Eats Like a Potato! It’s a Plantain By Aarti Sequeira My 16-month-old daughter has started identifying her favorite fruit, joyfully crying “ba-TA-ta!” as soon as she spies the cheery yellow fruit in our produce basket. She repeats its name in the hopes that I’ll work my mummy magic on the banana, snap the peel open and reveal that sweet, creamy goodness within. And so, when she spied the much larger lime green banana-looking plantains sitting on the counter this week, she couldn’t understand why I wasn’t breaking one open for her. I tried to explain that while plantains are related to the sweet bananas she loves, they are much starchier, less sweet, and unpleasant to eat raw. Once their peels turn first yellow, then black (or maduro, as it’s known in Spanish), they do begin to sweeten, but still need to be cooked. They are divine when fried, as the sugars create a lacy, honey-crisp coating while the lush interior turns into custard. She didn’t seem to get it. I expect this won’t be the last time. If you grew up in a Central American, the Caribbean, South American, Africa or even a South Indian community, you’re probably familiar with the plantain. In all these regions, the plantain is eaten in both its ripe and unripe incarnations. Boiled, braised, steamed, or fried, the plantain is as essential to their cuisines as the potato is to ours. The most popular plantain dish might be tostones, a fritter with a fry-like crunchy exterior and a fluffy, faintly sweet interior. They couldn’t be simpler to make: 1-inch wide slices are fried once, smashed, then fried once more. They make a delightful change from your regular starch.
The most popular plantain dish might be tostones, a fritter with a frylike crunchy exterior and a fluffy, faintly sweet interior.
Prep & cooking: 30 minutes Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • •
4 large eggs 2 small cloves garlic, finely minced 1/4 cup lemon juice 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/4 cup finely minced cilantro leaves and soft stems Pinch of sugar Kosher salt and ground black pepper Canola oil, for frying 2 large green, firm plantains
Heat the oven to 350 F. Add 1 tablespoon of water to each of 4 cups in a standard muffin pan. Break one egg into each of the cups. Set aside. Meanwhile, to make the sauce, in a medium bowl combine the garlic and lemon juice, then let stand for 5 minutes. Whisk in the olive oil, then the cilantro, sugar, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Set aside. To make the tostones, set a medium skillet over medium heat. Add enough canola oil to fill the pan with 1/2 inch. Heat the oil to 325 F (use a thermometer to monitor it). While the oil heats, prepare the plantains. Slice off the ends of each plantain, then run your knife down the length of each, cutting just through the skin but not through the flesh. Repeat on the opposite side of the fruit. Carefully pull away the peel in 2 large strips. Do not discard. Slice the peeled plantain into 1-inchthick oblongs.
From The Associated Press
“Smoke it Like a Pro” by Eric C. Mitchell.
TOSTONES EGGS BENEDICT WITH CILANTRO SAUCE
DIRECTIONS
Food Network star Aarti Sequeira is the author of “Aarti Paarti: An American Kitchen with an Indian Soul.” She blogs at AartiPaarti.com
“Feeding the Fire” by Joe Carroll.
RECIPE
Line a plate with a double layer of paper towels. Fill a large bowl with water and salt it generously. When the oil is ready, bake the eggs for 12 to 14 minutes (12 minutes for a cooked white and runny yolk, 14 minutes for a firmer yolk). The water will rise to the surface and look like the egg hasnvt cooked, but it has. Remove from the oven and set aside to cool. Meanwhile, carefully add some of the plantain slices to the oil, working in batches. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until very lightly golden brown, then flip. Cook another minute, then use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the paper towel-lined plate. Increase the heat to medium-high. Place a fried plantain on a cutting board. Place a plantain peel on top, green side facing up. Gently push down with the palm of your hand to flatten the fried plantain until it is 1/4 inch thick. Repeat with remaining slices. When the oil is 350 F, one at a time quickly dip each plantain slice in the salted water, tap off the excess, then use tongs to carefully place in the skillet of oil. Be careful of splattering oil. Cook for 1 minute, or until golden brown, then return to the paper-towel lined plate. Season immediately with salt. Repeat until all plantains have been fried a second time. Place 3 tostones in a circle on each serving plate. Carefully spoon a poached egg out of a muffin cup and place on top. Season with salt and pepper, then drizzle the sauce around the perimeter of the plate and a little over the top of the tostones. Serve immediately.
NUTRITION INFORMATION 540 calories; 380 calories from fat (70 percent of total calories); 42 g fat (6 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 215 mg cholesterol; 38 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 17 g sugar; 8 g protein; 310 mg sodium.
New Barbecue Books to Help You Get Your Grill Geek On By J.M. Hirsch With grilling season solidly upon us, let’s all take a moment to reflect on the various ways we send our food to the fire. There is, of course, Monday through Friday grilling. This is when the intense heat of the grill helps us along that painful march to what we call “weeknight dinner.” This is where we crank the grill, slap some chicken or salmon or veggies on the grates, and call it good about 15 minutes later. Then there is weekend grilling. Real grilling. This is when we have the luxury of getting our geek on. This is when we break out the charcoal and the wood chips and the water pans. This is when we marinate, baste, rub, soak and slather, then use a heat that is low and slow to nuance thick slabs of pork and beef. And every year, book publishers unleash a deluge of grilling and barbecue books to help you navigate all of this. Selfless man that I am, I waded through them all so you don’t have to. The short take — this is going to be a great year to be a grill geek. There are some fine new books ready to walk you down that fiery road. “Franklin Barbecue: A Meat-Smoking Manifesto” by Aaron Franklin and Jordan Mackay
This is more text book than cookbook, and that is a delicious compliment. Aaron Franklin—co-owner with his wife, Stacy, of Texas’ cultishly popular Franklin Barbecue—spends 122 pages walking the reader through every step of classic smoke-based barbecue, from how to build a smoker and what sort of wood to burn to which meats work best and how to trim and slice them. And that’s all before he ever gets to the recipes. For that, you get another 75 pages that take you through everything from how to make a great dry rub to how to maintain an ideal cooking temperature. Finally, he gets to the actual recipes, and he spares no detail. Fourteen pages to cook a pepper-rubbed brisket? Yes, please! Ten pages for pork spare ribs? Why not? “Feeding the Fire” by Joe Carroll Where Franklin is steeped in Texas barbecue culture, Joe Carroll is more have-it-your-way. This New Yorker—the man behind a string of big deal barbecue shops, including Fette Sau— found his own way in the barbecue world, borrowing ideas and approaches from various Southern traditions. The result is more freewheeling, but no less educational or delicious.
Carroll starts off teaching you how to barbecue no matter what your equipment, whether gas grill, charcoal smoker or kettle grill. He doesn’t spare the how-to details, but he gives equal time to the recipes, including sides and drinks. And everything packs big, bold flavor. I kind of want to take a bath in his “tiger sauce.” “Smoke It Like a Pro” by Eric C. Mitchell When it comes to gear, true barbecue geeks generally go one of two ways. They either build their own rig or the buy a Big Green Egg. And if you don’t know what the latter is, you aren’t a grill geek. For those who are, Eric Mitchell has written the definitive guide to walk you through your favorite toy (though he also covers other ceramic-style grills). He keeps the front matter to a minimum, instead focusing on the many ways low and slow charcoal cooking can be a transformative experience. The “Sully’s marinated steak tips” sounds trashy (Coke and Italian dressing are ingredients), but I can’t help but want them. From The Associated Press
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Wylie Dufresne Ponders His Next Steps
ALL PHOTOS BY RICHARD DREW/AP
Jocelyn Noveck NEW YORK—If the sky had been the limit, Wylie Dufresne says, he’d have become a professional baseball player. And so it seems fortuitous, at least for foodies, that Dufresne by his own admission had no special baseball talent. Because if he’d become, say, a shortstop for the Yankees, no one ever would have gotten to taste creations like his eggs Benedict, with its futuristic cubes of fried hollandaise, or his rye pasta, evoking a deli sandwich in a pasta dish, or perhaps his current Brie ice cream, accompanied by pickled cherries and a Triscuit. As it turned out, Dufresne, often called the “mad scientist” of the food world because of his boundary-stretching techniques, realized that working in a restaurant was akin to being on a baseball team. “There’s really a lot of similarity, with the structure of the kitchen and the teamwork involved,” Dufresne says. At 44, he is one of New York’s better-known chefs, famous for his take on so-called molecular gastronomy, an approach to cooking that involves transforming common ingredients into new shapes and textures, often via complex technology. But don’t call it molecular gastronomy around Dufresne. He hates the term. Why? “Does it SOUND delicious?” he asks. “It sounds like people in lab coats electrocuting bunnies.” Dufresne and his colleagues prefer “modernist cuisine.” Whatever you call it, it resulted in that startling version of eggs Benedict, a longtime favorite at wd-50, Dufresne’s influential Lower East Side eatery that closed in November due to real estate issues. The dish, which looked like a modern painting, involved cooking egg yolks in plastic sleeves (like ice pops) and frying hollandaise into cubes, a process that used starch to prevent the eggs from scrambling. “Wylie takes things like that eggs Benedict and completely rethinks them, giving them to us in another form that refers back to the original,” says Colman Andrews, editorial director of the Daily Meal. The publication named wd-50 its 2014 restaurant of the year, noting wistfully that it was a “posthumous” designation. “He certainly has been an inspiration to many chefs.” Dufresne himself is at a sort of mini-crossroads. Wd-50 “went out with a bang,” he says. “I’m very proud of what we did; I think we added to the dialogue.” But of course it was sad. “A day doesn’t go by when I don’t think of it, especially the people,” he says. “The city is now riddled with my former employees, as are restaurants around the world.” Dufresne has been mulling over a new location; in the meantime, he’s working on his first cookbook, a history of wd-50. And of course he has Alder, his more casual East Village restaurant that just celebrated its second anniversary. On a recent spring afternoon, Dufresne chatted with this reporter while his chef de cuisine, Ryan Henderson, worked on new ideas for the next night’s Test Kitchen Tuesday, a temporary weekly event allowing diners to sample dishes in progress. Henderson came out with a plate of cumin-rubbed lamb belly, and the men discussed its virtues. The next night, the lamb belly was indeed there, the small bites accompanied by cumin tofu, black garlic and grapefruit. There also was
I have a hard time seeing myself with 20 restaurants. I don’t have 20 ideas. Wylie Dufresne
Chef Wylie Dufresne at his restaurant Alder, on April 2. fish and chips made with hamachi and pea puree, followed by a tiny stack of pancakes— silver dollars, made of grilled octopus. Dessert looked like a wedge of Brie cheese, and it was— Brie transformed into smooth, tart ice cream. The cost of the four-course menu was $50— not bad, considering you pay almost that much at a Greek diner in Manhattan these days. (Alder has just announced it is moving to a $65 tasting menu, with both the silver dollars and the Brie ice cream making the cut.) Working in the kitchen all evening was Dufresne, who says he does so five days a week, unlike some chef-owners who tend to spend much of their time out of the kitchen. That, Dufresne says, is one reason he doesn’t have designs on a huge empire of restaurants. “I have a hard time seeing myself with 20 restaurants,” he says. “I don’t have 20 ideas.” Dufresne grew up in Manhattan, and sampled the food business during summer jobs with his restaurateur dad, Dewey. He went to Colby College in Maine, majoring in philosophy. Philosophy majors are not, traditionally, peppered with real-world job offers upon graduating, but Dufresne knew by then he was headed to the kitchen. He studied at the French Culinary Institute, then found his way to the celebrated chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten, with whom he worked for more than five years, and whom he credits with inspiring his creativity. “Creativity is creativity,” he says. “Jean-Georges took the fats
Chef Wylie Dufresne (L) talks with a member of his kitchen staff at Alder.
and creams out of French cooking and turned them into juices.” Dufresne opened wd-50 in April 2003, his first venture as owner. “We had a 15-year lease, and we almost made it,” he says. Fellow chef David Chang, of the Momofuku restaurants, is among those who wax rhapsodic about wd-50. “What Wylie did at wd-50 is set a new standard for cooking that inspired the industry,” Chang says. “It wasn’t about what ingredients they cooked with, it was why to cook something in the first place. Curiosity and education was the priority. They were fearless in finding the truth that mattered to them.” While some chefs eschew the “celebrity chef” phenomenon of recent years, Dufresne readily admits that his TV appearances—on “Top Chef,” for example—boosted business at crucial times. “You have to find ways; you can’t just expect people to come,” he says. “If I hadn’t been on ‘Top Chef,’ I probably wouldn’t be here right now.” Besides, Dufresne adds, there’s something satisfying about being at an airport, and having the TSA agent say, ‘I saw you on ‘Top Chef’ today!’” Or when people in his restaurants ask to take photos with him. “If that enhances their experience, why not?” he says. “It’s icing on the cake. We should be grateful.” From The Associated Press
Dufresne (R) speaks with his chef de cuisine, Ryan Henderson.
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108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
D10 May 15–21, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org
At Philippe on the Upper East Side.
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HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE
(L–R) Crispy Beef, Nine Seasons Spicy Prawns, Bok Choy, Salt and Pepper Lobster, Peking Duck, and American Black Bass.
Philippe
An upscale take on Beijing cuisine
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hinese cuisine and upscale aren’t words you often find in the same sentence. For a long time, Chinese cuisine has suffered from a stigma that, as far as general perceptions go, has relegated it to the realm of takeout rather than fine dining. That’s a pity. There is exciting work from a new generation of chefs, such as Fung Tu’s Jonathan Wu, whose cooking is at once traditional and innovative (smoked and fried dates filled with duck, anyone?) But the glass ceiling, in terms of prices, is very much there. So I’m always curious when I encounter an upscale Chinese restaurant. Hakkasan, in the Theatre District, for example, offers killer Cantonese. The online menu doesn’t feature prices, which should be a clue to its priciness. If not, the fact that whole Peking duck is served with Ossetra caviar should offer another. Another upscale Chinese restaurant, but focused on Beijing-style cuisine, Philippe, is celebrating its 10th year in business. It’s notable for the A-list celebs that have crossed its threshold: Rihanna, Matt Damon, Robert de Niro, and many more. Over Memorial Day weekend, Philippe is set to enter nightlife entertainment by opening The Club at Philippe in East Hampton, with world class DJs, chef Philippe Chow’s signature dishes, and late night bites. Speaking of stars, that star shine extends
Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00
Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class
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hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course
(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
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Sake and Wine
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as
Ask about our sake tastings.
white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
American Black Bass, half garlic, half black bean.
Philippe celebrates its 10th anniversary this year.
to the dishes, in a very literal way. They are served family style, in the traditional way, which I liked. The Peking Duck, served dramatically table side, glows with a deep golden amber lacquer ($75 for a 7-pound duck). It takes 45 minutes to get it ready once you order, so it’s advised to order it as soon as you get there. The table side carving only reinforces any hunger pangs: the sight of the gleaming duck skin, and the crackling sound of the skin as the knife slices through. It proves anticipation is the best appetite stimulant. The skin is, of course, the best part of a Peking duck. The thin pancakes here are housemade, and the duck makes for a good feast for about three people. We also enjoyed the buttery American Black Bass, half of it served with garlic, the other with black bean ($30 for one; $60 for two). The Salt & Pepper Lobster (market price) also satisfies lobster cravings. In several other dishes, like the Crispy Beef, the flavor is predominantly sweet, especially with a top note of sugar. It must work for a lot of people—the restaurant was buzzing on a Monday evening when I went. But I find too often Chinese cooks and chefs, as in this case, cater to palates that crave sweet, at the price of balance. For example, the waiter highly recommended the popular Chicken Satay with chef Chow’s
D11 May 15–21, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Contemporary Thai street food
NoodiesNYC.com 830 9th Ave Btw. 54th & 55th Street • 646-669-7828
Katsu & Sake
Signature dishes you won’t find in other Japanese restaurants
Discover the Hidden Gem in K-Town The most special dish, reserved for special occasions across Japan. Try this amazing Pork Katsu at HanaMichi. Our unique preparation not only highlights pork, but also chicken, beef and vegetables! A dish worth gathering for!
(Clockwise, from top left) Chicken Satay, Wok Fried Mayonnaise Prawns, Scallion Pancakes, and Hot and Sour Soup.
Pork Katsu
Tonkatsu Ramen
“This is one of my favorite spots in K-town” – Zagat-
28 W 32nd Street, New York, NY 10001
212.736.5393 24 Hours Open www.hanamichinyc.com
The restaurant’s stylish front bar.
體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 )
famous peanut sauce. It comes in a gorgeous coral hue, glistening on a skewer. But here too the flavor skews too sweet for my taste, almost caramel-like. Libations draw inspiration from the East, such as the signature Philipptini ($19), with Absolut vodka, lychee, pineapple juice, Citronage, and Chambord; or the Shanghai Philippe (Stoli Strawberry, elderflower syrup, fresh strawberries, and champagne, $19). Lunch can be a more affordable affair if you opt for the special. There’s a three-course lunch special, Monday through Saturday (noon–3 p.m.), for $23.95, or for the power lunch with a martini, $32.95.
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Philippe
33 E. 60th St. 212-644-8885 PhilippeChow.com
The Club at Philippe opens Memorial Day weekend. Hamptons location: 44 Three Mile Harbor Road 631-324-3332
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Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
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212-594-4963 Peking Duck, served dramatically table side, served with housemade pancakes, scallions, cucumber, and hoisin sauce.
10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
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CICI’S FOOD PARADISE
Relishing a Chinese ‘Char Siu’ Rack of Ribs
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CiCi Li about to savor barbecued spare ribs at Uncle Ted’s.
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f the medley of meats savored across the world, spareribs may be among the most YES! CiCi inexpensive cut—but when slow cooked, they give a flavor that’s does dig in. rich and a texture that’s heavenly. Southern-style spareribs are held up as a scrumptious staple of family barbecues in America. And though dierent recipes abound—as do Southern matriarchs compelled by tradition not to divulge them—racks of ribs are usually cooked on a grill, or over an open fire. They are served as a slab with sauce, often in the company of corn on the cob or other starchy sides like potato purĂŠe. Just as jealously guarded in Cantonese cuisine of southern China, a typical recipe for spareribs calls for cooking in the “char siuâ€? barbecue style, which gives that characteristic glazed red veneer to the meat as it is roasted in a sweet and savory sauce. Earlier this week, I stepped into Uncle I bit into a succulent piece of rib. The Ted’s Modern Chinese Cuisine in Greenwich Village, and learned executive chef texture was juicy and tender, and it was Ming Wong’s barbecue spareribs recipe. at once smoky with many layers of sweet Wong is from Hong Kong and is in his flavors. I must agree with Wong that the apple sauce really made a huge dierearly 60s. With a pair of round-framed glasses over his deep-set eyes, Wong ence. This isn’t your average Chinese looks like a European gentleman from barbecue spareribs! the 1800s. Now what’s a girl to do but share such “Apple sauce is the magic ingredient treasure with her readers! in this recipe,â€? he said. After we finished cooking the ribs, I CiCi Li is the presenter of “CiCi’s Food contemplated for five seconds how to Paradiseâ€? on NTD Television. She’s also eat them with chopsticks. Then I was a television host, food writer, and chef in thought: “Forget it.â€? The best way to eat training. Join her on her adventure and them is the most primitive one: use your discover the endless wonders of “Food bare hands. Paradiseâ€? at CiCiLi.tv
RECIPE
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus on sushi and excel at the one thing that mattered most.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btw madison & 5th Ave.)
Over three decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like.
CHINESE ‘CHAR SIU’ BARBECUE SPARERIBS A LA MODE Prep & cooking: 1 hour, 45 min Serves: 6
INGREDIENTS • 1 full rack St. Louis-style spareribs, cut into individual ribs, about 3 pounds • 1/4 cup barbecue sauce (char siu) • 1/4 cup ketchup • 1/4 cup ground bean sauce • 1/4 cup hoisin sauce • 1/4 cup oyster sauce • 1 teaspoon sugar • 1 teaspoon salt
DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 450F degrees. Combine the char siu (barbecue sauce), ketchup, ground bean sauce, hoisin sauce, oyster sauce, salt, and sugar. Stir for 10 minutes until the sauce is thoroughly mixed.
Line a roasting pan with heavy duty aluminum foil, lay the spare ribs on the foil, and brush the sauce on both sides of the ribs. Transfer the roasting pan to the oven. Heat one side of the ribs for 45 minutes, then flip the ribs and heat for another 45 minutes until well done. You can find char sui and ground bean sauce at a Chinese grocery store.