D1 May 8–14, 2015
& QA with
In Celebration of Epoch Taste, We’re Giving Away
Corey Lee
600
$
D10 Salsa verde.
In Gift Cards to Whole Foods
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Pico de gallo.
Wok-seared cauliflower.
Smoked wings with achiote glaze, garlic crema, and sesame seeds.
Pineapplehabanero salsa.
Snow crab legs with coco curry sauce.
Ghost pepper sauce. Chilled broccoli salad with olive oil and lemon juice.
LoLo’s
CAPE COD to CARIBBEAN SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Hands will get dirty at LoLo’s Seafood Shack in Harlem, and it’s the way it should be.
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Half the fun of going to LoLo’s Seafood Shack is the feeling of stumbling into a secret. The storefront is banal. Inside, though, is another story. Step in and you almost feel the breeze of the Caribbean flutter over you. The real gem is in the back: a recently opened patio, seating about 30, with vibrant colors from the islands—turquoise, sunset orange, purples, greens, pinks. It’s color therapy after such a long brutal winter. LoLo’s has been open for about six months, but it’s actually hardly a secret. The constant flow of customers in and out is telltale—everywhere couples and friends and families hunch over steampots of seafood and “shark and bakes.” The seafood is the star here, and it all gets gloriously messy.
See LoLo’s on D2
Lolo’s Seafood Shack
303 W. 116th St. 646-649-3356 LoLosSeafoodShack.com Hours Tuesday–Friday 4 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Saturday 3 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Sunday 3 p.m.–8 p.m. Open on Mondays starting last week of May
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Epoch Taste
D2 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
LoLo’s
Husbandand-wife team and co-owners Raymond Mohan and Leticia Skai Young.
CAPE COD to CARIBBEAN LoLo’s continued from D1 Did I mention that nothing is over $12? (Save for the snow crab legs at $19). The outfit is run by wife-and-husband team Leticia Skai Young and Raymond Mohan. Both have roots in the Caribbean. Young is from Harlem, but while growing up took frequent trips to Belize, where her father is from. Mohan, the chef, grew up close to the ocean in Guyana, in South America. “Every day I would go to the market with my mother. It’s a fascinating place to be as a kid,” he said. His mother had a roadside stand selling mavi, a fermented drink made with with the bark of the mavi tree. He would observe the fish coming to market every day. “The fish were still breathing when they came to the market.” Young and Mohan spent some time living in Anguilla and recall the 20-minute ferry ride it took for them to get to the island of St. Martin and visit lolos. Lolos? “They’re these little beachside shops, really cool casual places with seafood and ribs where folks gather,” Young said. When they set out to create Harlem’s own little lolo, they added a twist to it (beside the no-ocean bit) by calling it Cape Cod meets Caribbean. “We wanted to have seafood but there are no snow crabs or crawfish in the Carribean,” Young said. “It’s a little bit of a mix of everything and folks can customize it.” For example, those snowcrab legs—you can have them with the classic garlic butter and Old Bay, or you can have them with a coco curry sauce, which is what we had. Thai curry powder, turmeric, coconut milk, and some fish sauce for good measure make for an enticing smell and messy delicious eats. Mohan, who has worked under Jean-Georges Vongerichten, has also traveled and eaten his way
The seafood is the star here, and it all gets gloriously messy.
! This week! Don‘t miss the Lobster Roll.
HARMONY Ancient principles of Greek cuisine combined with modern techniques, yield a harmonious balance of flavors in every dish, at Nerai.
55 East 54th Street New York (646)844-2275 www.nerai.nyc
through southeast Asia. There’s a sensibility that he brings to the dishes, with a careful attention to the balance of flavors and textures. He adds a wonderful twist to classics (whether from New England or the islands). Don’t miss the Crabby Dip, made with callaloo (a type of Caribbean greens), manchego, and topped with panko crumbs ($9). It is served with super addictive crispy plain chips dusted in curry salt. The golden Belizean Conch Fritters ($9) are light and oh-so-crunchy on the outside, thanks to rice flour. Inside: conch and bacalao. Dip them in an eye-opening lime zest remoulade, so good it could be shamelessly eaten on its own. Now for the “bakes.” These are really sandwiches, but instead of bread there are johnny cakes—fried up dough that can also be ordered on the side (those too are amazing, drenched in honey butter). They come in a few versions like salmon or avocado ($11 and $9, respectively). We tried the Soft Shell Crab and Bake ($12). The flavors melded beautifully—the crab, with crispy bacon, and pickled cabbage. Don’t forget the handful of homemade hot sauces, which are all delectable. They all deliver a spicy kick in their own way. The ghost pepper sauce, for example, delivers a prompt blow to the throat, and the pineapple-habanero starts with a deceptively sweet overture before releasing its salvo of heat. There’s a variety of snacks and sides, from corn on the cob, with cotija cheese sprinkled all over, a chilled broccoli salad drizzled simply with lemon juice and olive oil, to smoky chicken wings, with achiote glaze and garlic crema ($6, $4, $10, respectively). Young and Mohan expect their liquor license to come through soon, “about a month and a half,” Young estimates. They’re planning out the drinks, possibly a smoky margarita with mescal, “and a rum punch for sure,” said Young. “You can’t be in the islands without having a rum punch.”
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Epoch Taste
D3 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com PETR SVAB/EPOCH TIMES
with Erin Smith
Erin Smith publishes two blogs, “Gluten-Free Fun” and “Gluten-Free Globetrotter.” She also runs a consultancy business, Gluten Freelancer.
Gluten-Free Dining in the City By Rowena Tsai | Epoch Times Staff
Erin Smith knows a thing or two about keeping a gluten-free diet. She’s been on a gluten-free diet since age 2, when she was diagnosed with celiac disease. Smith is the lead organizer of the NYC Celiac Meetup, and runs a consultancy business, GlutenFreelancer, which helps brands and restaurants connect to gluten-free customers. She also runs two blogs, Gluten-Free Fun and Gluten-Free Globetrotter. With these her goal is to encourage those keeping a gluten-free diet— whether as a lifestyle choice or for medical reasons—to live life to the fullest. We had the chance to talk all things glutenfree with Smith. Find out what her favorite gluten-free spots are in the city, how Italy compares to the United States for gluten-free dining, and where hidden gluten lurks.
I have been to many restaurants that will label something gluten-free but then have no clue about careful preparation in the kitchen.
who require a gluten-free diet due to medical conditions such as celiac disease or other autoimmune diseases that respond positively to a gluten-free diet. There is also non-celiac gluten sensitivity and people with wheat allergies that also require a gluten-free diet. Then there are the people who choose to eat gluten-free as a lifestyle choice. There is a misunderstanding that gluten-free is a good way to lose weight. This has not yet been scientifically proven. Epoch Times: Gluten-free seems to be everywhere these days. When did you start seeing a noticeable increase in popularity? Ms. Smith: There has been a huge increase in people eating gluten-free over the past five to eight years. I remember people staring at me blankly 10 to 15 years ago when I said “I must eat gluten-free.” No one had a clue what I was talking about. Now, it is becoming more common to see gluten-free items marked on menus and labeling on products in the supermarket.
Epoch Times: Is that a good or bad thing? What opportunities do you see, if any, with the growing gluten-free trend? Ms. Smith: I think the growing gluten-free trend is both good and bad. It’s good when it comes to gluten-free labeling. After almost 10 years, the FDA finally passed gluten-free labeling guidelines in 2014. This makes grocery shopping somewhat easier, although I still always read labels very carefully. In terms of restaurants, I think it could be bad and I recommend everyone proceed with caution. Restaurants are not yet regulated the same way packaged goods are required to meet FDA standards. I have been to many restaurants that will label something gluten-free but then have no clue about careful preparation in the kitchen. Serving someone on a medically necessary gluten-free diet is very different from serving someone that chooses to eat gluten-free. See Erin Smith on D9
PRIME STEAKS.
Epoch Times: What are some of your favorite gluten-free dishes or spots in the city? Erin Smith: I have so many favorite places in New York City. Some of my favorite dishes include chips and guacamole off the glutenfree menu at Rosa Mexicano in Union Square, gluten-free breadsticks at Risotteria, and all of the desserts from By the Way Bakery on the Upper West Side.
LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
Epoch Times: Any unexpected places that are offering gluten-free options? Ms. Smith: Jackson Heights in Queens is a great place to find gluten-free Mexican food while Astoria has many delicious gluten-free Greek options. My favorite is the homemade sausage from Ovelia, a restaurant that has been through gluten-free kitchen training and has the gluten-free items clearly marked on the menu. I was very surprised to find so many glutenfree options in Italy. There is a greater awareness of celiac disease in Italy and gluten-free food is available in all of the pharmacies. You might never expect that the land of pizza and pasta would be so gluten-free friendly, but it is. Epoch Times: How does eating gluten-free in the United States compare to eating glutenfree abroad? Ms. Smith: Over the past 10 years, I have actually found it easier to eat gluten-free abroad than at home in the United States. Countries in Europe and Canada had gluten-free labeling regulations way ahead of the United States, which only implemented gluten-free FDA regulations in 2014. There also seemed to be a greater amount of awareness of a gluten-free diet as a medical necessity rather than a trend outside of the United States. It is getting better in the United States, but I still think there is a long way to go. The first step was having the FDA establish the previously mentioned guidelines. The next step would be requiring restaurants to be completely transparent about ingredients and preparation. Unfortunately, I do not see this happening soon enough for those of us with celiac disease. Epoch Times: What’s the spectrum of people who eat gluten-free? Ms. Smith: Today, there is a wide variety of people eating gluten-free. There are those of us
Astoria has many delicious glutenfree Greek options. Morton’s World Trade Center
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com
Epoch Taste
D4 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY, LLC
NYC Makes a Strong Show at James Beard Awards New York City made a strong showing at James Beard Awards in Chicago on May 4. (Groans could be heard on the West Coast. “What is it about the Beard awards and Southern California? Another shutout,” tweeted L.A. Times Food.)
Outstanding Restaurant: Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocantico Hills, N.Y. GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY, LLC
FRANCIS SON
Winners From the Big Apple • Outstanding Chef: Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern, NYC • Outstanding Pastry Chef: Christina Tosi, Momofuku, NYC • Best New Restaurant: Bâtard, NYC • Outstanding Restaurant: Blue Hill at Stone Barns, Pocantico Hills, NY • Outstanding Baker: Jim Lahey, Sullivan Street Bakery, NYC • Best Chef: NYC: Mark Ladner, Del Posto
& Beverage in America. In addition, Humanitarian of the Year award went to Michel Nischan, CEO, president and co-founder of Wholesome Wave, an organization that advocates for access to healthy, affordable fresh food. The Lifetime Achievement Award went to Richard Melman of Lettuce Entertain You Enterprises in Chicago. The company has more than 100 restaurants nationwide. For the full list of winners, see JamesBeard.org GALDONES PHOTOGRAPHY, LLC
2015 James Beard Foundation Who’s Who of Food & Beverage in America • Dale DeGroff, Mixologist, NYC • Wylie Dufresne, Chef and Restaurateur, NYC Across the Hudson river in Hoboken, New Jersey, chef, restaurateur, and author Maricel Presilla, was also inducted into the Who’s Who of Food
Outstanding Pastry Chef: Christina Tosi, Momofuku, New York.
Best Chef—New York City: Mark Ladner, Del Posto.
Outstanding Chef: Michael Anthony, Gramercy Tavern, New York.
AROUND TOWN
Brunch Bash
This could be your Saturday: unlimited food, bottomless beers, brunch cocktails, and coffee. There will also be a bloody mary bar and a freshly shucked oyster bar. All proceeds will help raise money for KEEN New York—a nonprofit focused on working with disabled chil-
Over
50 Authentic
Spanish Tapas Endless combinations of flavors to share, or indulge on your own.
Come in and Pick Your Favorites Tonight!
Restaurant
344 WEST 46TH ST. (BET 8TH & 9TH AVE.) • MESONSEVILLA.COM • 212-262-5890
Saturday, May 9, 12:30 p.m.–3 p.m. Studio Arte, 265 W. 37th St. Tickets $45. LocalBozo.com
Wine & Spirits Top of the List Tasting COURTESY OF WINE & SPIRITS MAGAZINE
Join Wine & Spirits magazine in honoring the 50 most popular wine brands in restaurants and the most popular wines by the glass, variety, and country of origin. Sip your favorite wines, meet the wine makers, and savor bites from notable NY restaurants along with local artisan purveyors. Monday, May 11, 6:30 p.m. Metropolitan Pavilion, 125 W. 18th St. Tickets $85-125. WineandSpiritMagazine.com/toplist
Top of List Tasting 2014.
COURTESY OF TASTE OF GREECE
Wishing you were frolicking in the volcanic soil of Santorini? Although not exactly that, Taste of Greece comes close. Join New Wines of Greece and Friends of Boroume charity for a night of Greece wine tastings, gastronomy, and culture. There will be live music, and the event will feature 50 of Greece’s most popular wineries.
Taste of Greece
Meson Sevilla
dren in arts and athletics. Giving back while boozy brunching? That, my friend, is winning.
NYC’s top chefs and mixologists, with a live silent auction. Guest chefs will serve their interpretation of Southeast Asian street foods complemented by an open bar with signature cocktails throughout the evening. STREETS is a non-profit that helps local and disadvantaged youth achieve financial independence
Wednesday, May 13, 7 p.m.–10 p.m. City Winery, 155 Varick St. Tickets $75–125.
STREETS Eats in Hoi An, Vietnam. Tuesday, May 19, 7 p.m.–9 p.m. Tickets $150. Compiled by Rowena Tsai, Epoch Times Staff
Epoch Taste
D5 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com Openings around town COURTESY OF CANTINA ROOFTOP
Cantina Rooftop: Antojitos, Margaritas, and Stunning Views
WE WELCOME YOU TO
COURTESY OF CANTINA ROOFTOP
Executive chef Gonzalo Colin is a Mexico City native who spent a year making his way around Mexico, tasting his way across dozens of cities. Cantina Rooftop is located steps from the Hudson River and offers views of Midtown. Antojitos like tacos or ceviches will be plentiful but also fun bites like camarones locos (tequila fire Gulf shrimp) and frijoles borrachos (with braised Berkshire pork belly, hoja santa, mescal and Negro Modelo lager), and barbacoa de carnero (maguey-braised lamb shank, consomme with guajillo sauce and comal corn tortillas) pollo campestro (chicken in mole negro served with green rice). The rooftop fun isn’t just seasonal to the clement warm weather months however. The rooftop is retractable, and cooler months will bring out space heaters. Happy hour specials include $5 beer, $6 margaritas, and $7 tacos. Cocktails include the Cantina Margarita with Fidencio mescal, lemon juice, agave nectar, and Tajin spice rum.
LOCAL, SEASONAL, MARKET FRESH FARE
RESTAURANT You will love our warm atmosphere and our expertly prepared menu. We pay the utmost attention to every detail of your visit. From the hand crafted cocktails and specialty wine list, to our thoughtfully planned, market fresh and in-season dishes. Every dish, every cocktail is prepared from scratch and every detail is carefully thought out. We are always happy to customize any of your dining requests. NEW! Chef ’s Seasonal Tasting Menu
34 East 20th Street Located in Flatiron New York City
CountyNyc.com
(btwn Park and Broadway)
212.677.7771
A Turkish Feast You’ll Always Remember
Tacos at Cantina Rooftop.
Cantina Rooftop 605 W. 48th St. 212-957-1700 CantinaRooftop.com
Faro: A New Addition to Bushwick MICHAEL TULIPAN
At Bushwick’s new Faro, husband-and-wife team Kevin Adey and Debbie Adey are devoted to locally sourced, sustainably raised, and harvested ingredients. The meats are certified Animal Welfare Approved, and the grains are brought in whole and milled on-site for bread and pastas. On the menu you’ll find Dandelion Greens with sunflower-crusted chevre and garlic confit; Wood Fired Porgy with peas, botarga, and emmer; and Grano Arso Stracci ‘burnt’ flour pasta with morels, rosemary, Parmesan chili gremolata. Pastas start at $11 and notably, no dish is over $20. Serves dinner, with brunch to be launched in the future.
Authentic Mediterranean Turkish Cuisine 2 Delicious Specialty Kebabs & Pides 2 Zucchini Pancakes 2 Decadent Homemade Specialties and Desserts 2 Catering Available
Seven’s Mediterranean Turkish Grill
Faro
Rating on Trip Advisor Rating on Open Table
436 Jefferson St. (between Wyckoff and St. Nicholas avenues) Bushwick, Brooklyn 718-381-8201 FaroBK.com
www.SevenTurkishGrillNYC.com
MICHAEL TULIPAN
Caserecce with English peas, prosciutto, and pea shoots.
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
Eataly Vino Reopens, With Added Features Eataly Vino has reopened a few steps down from its original location on 23rd Street, to a bilevel space. Features will include a tasting bar, a temperature-controlled Riserva Room, with vintages from top producers, and an expanded selection of high quality wines. Among the latter, there will be wines from Vino Libero, a consortium of Italian producers whose goal is to produce high quality wines free of chemical fertilizers, herbicides, and minimal amounts of sulfates.
Eataly Vino 200 Fifth Ave. (Entrance on 23rd Street) 646-398-5102 Eataly.com
COURTESY OF EATALY
158 West 72nd St. NY (212) 724-4700
MEDITERRANEAN TURKISH GRILL
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
MP Taverna Brooklyn to Open May 11 Chef Michael Psilakis is opening his fourth MP Taverna on May 11, this time in Williamsburg. Expect Grilled Calamari with cauliflower and chickpeas, Moussaka; and Octopus with Mediterranean bean salad. The space occupies a refurbished warehouse, which will also be home to The Hall at MP, Psilakis’s performing arts space and restaurant, to open in early summer.
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
MP Taverna Brooklyn
470 Driggs Ave. (between N. 10th and N. 11th streets) Wiliamsburg, Brooklyn
Compiled by Channaly Philipp, Epoch Times Staff
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
Epoch Taste
D6 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com
This Mother’s Day, Let Mom Have Her Scrambled Eggs Her Way By Sarah Moulton As a mom, I know there’s no better gift on Mother’s Day than being served breakfast in bed, complete with the Sunday paper. So the menu I propose here is an extra-special plate of scrambled eggs tossed with sautéed wild mushrooms, a little Parmesan cheese, and perhaps a drizzle of truffle oil. It’s special, but it doesn’t require Herculean effort by the spouse (and children) preparing it. But before you start cooking, you’ll need to interview Mom about just how she likes her scrambled eggs: light and fluffy or dense and creamy. That’s right, there are two distinct styles. The light and fluffy guys are made by beating the eggs with a little half-and-half and some salt. The addition of half-and-half and the beating aerates the eggs, ensuring that the cooked curds have a light texture. The salt, along with the water and fat in the half-and-half, raises the temperature at which eggs coagulate, making them less likely to overcook. Light-and-airy-style scrambled eggs are then cooked quickly over medium heat. Using a heatproof rubber spatula, you repeatedly lift and fold the egg mixture over itself until almost
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
French or American style? Let Mom decide.
all of the mixture has formed large curds. But be sure to stop before the egg is fully cooked. That’s when you pull the pan off the heat and continue stirring while the curds finish forming in the residual heat. If you leave these eggs on the burner until the curds are completely formed and the pan is dry, they’ll end up overcooked. Ever seen eggs with tough curds floating in a watery liquid? That’s how it happened. Light and fluffy scrambled eggs take just a couple minutes to cook. On the other hand, dense and creamy scrambled eggs are a French thing. For these, you beat the eggs with the half-and-half and salt just until they are mixed. We don’t want any air in them. Then we cook them low and slow, stirring constantly, until they’re almost set. There will be some very small curds. You then pull the pan off the heat while there’s still some liquid egg in the pan. Creamy scrambled eggs take 15 to 20 minutes to cook. I finished the eggs with sautéed wild mushrooms, freshly grated Parmesan cheese, and truffle oil, but feel free to experiment with your own garnishes. Making tender and tasty scrambled eggs is all about the technique. The garnish is secondary.
RECIPE SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH WILD MUSHROOMS Prep and cooking time: 25 to 45 minutes, depending on method Makes 4 servings
INGREDIENTS • • • • • • •
• • •
From The Associated Press
4 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided 1/2 pound mixed mushrooms, sliced Kosher salt and ground black pepper 8 large eggs 1/4 cup half-and-half 1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 ounce grated Parmesan cheese (1/2 cup using a rasp-style grater, 1/4 cup using the fine side of a four-sided grater) Chopped fresh chives, to garnish Truffle oil (optional) Buttered toast, to serve
DIRECTIONS In a large nonstick skillet over mediumhigh, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the mushrooms, a hefty pinch each of salt and pepper, then cook the mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until they are lightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl and cover them with foil. Light and Fluffy American-Style Eggs In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs with the half-and-half, thyme, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper until they are light and fluffy. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the skillet and set it over medium heat. When the butter is completely melted and the foam
has subsided, add the eggs. Use a heat-proof (silicone) spatula to stir the eggs, scooping them into the middle of the pan and folding them gently in on themselves, until they are almost all set, but there still is a little liquid egg in the pan, about 2 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the mushrooms and the cheese, then season with salt and pepper, if needed. Divide between 4 plates. Sprinkle the chives on top, then drizzle with truffle oil, if using. Serve each portion with buttered toast. Creamy Custard-Like French Eggs In a medium bowl, use a fork to beat the eggs with the half-and-half, thyme, and 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper until just combined (and you can see no more separate whites). Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in the skillet over medium-low heat and add the eggs. Using a heat-proof (silicone) spatula, stir the eggs constantly, until they are almost all set, but there is still a little liquid egg in the pan (there will be almost no curds), about 20 minutes. Remove the skillet from the heat, stir in the mushrooms and the cheese, then season with salt and pepper, if needed. Divide between 4 plates. Sprinkle the chives on top, then drizzle with truffle oil, if using. Serve each portion with buttered toast.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving (both versions): 350 calories; 240 calories from fat (69 percent of total calories); 27 g fat (14 g saturated; 0.5 g trans fats); 475 mg cholesterol; 11 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 2 g sugar; 17 g protein; 440 mg sodium.
Show Mom Some Love With a Moist Chocolate and Beet Cake
You won’t even know the beets are there.
By Alison Ladman Mom always said to eat your vegetables. So call this getting even. ... Make her vegetables as a Mother’s Day dessert. Or maybe it’s just the ticket for letting her know how much you listen to what she’s always saying. We took beets and incorporated them into a delicious, moist, and surprisingly rich chocolate cake. To up its lovability even more (because hey, your mom loves you) we added sweet– tart raspberries and serve the whole thing with a luscious buttermilk cream. Not sure about the idea of beets in a cake? Believe it or not, you won’t even know they are there. But you will know this is an incredibly moist and rich chocolate cake, and that’s what matters. From The Associated Press
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600
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In Gift Cards to Whole Foods
Enter at EpochTaste.com/Win View contest rules on EpochTaste.com/Win Sweepstakes ends 6/1/2015
RECIPE CHOCOLATE–RASPBERRY BEET CAKE WITH BUTTERMILK CREAM Prep and baking time: 1 1/2 hours Makes 16 servings
FOR THE CAKE • • • • • • •
2 cups packed (15 ounces) brown sugar 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon table salt 1/2 teaspoon dry ground ginger 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• • • • • • •
1/2 cup vegetable or canola oil 3 eggs 2/3 cup (2 ounces) unsweetened cocoa powder 2 1/3 cups (10 ounces) all-purpose flour 2/3 cup buttermilk 1 cup packed finely grated peeled raw beets 1 cup (6 ounces) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate, plus more for serving • 2 cups fresh raspberries, plus more for serving
FOR THE BUTTERMILK CREAM • 1 vanilla bean • 1/2 cup buttermilk • 3/4 cup heavy cream
Epoch Taste
D7 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com
If Your Mom Fancies Something Fancy, Consider a Tea Party Classic Margherita Pizza
By Alison Ladman Some moms want a spa day. Some moms crave chocolate. And some moms just want a little fancy pampering. If your mom falls into that last category, consider throwing her a tea party this Mother’s Day. And it’s so much easier than it sounds. Brew up some of her favorite teas. Purchase some high-quality sweets—some beautiful candies and chocolates, as well as some delicate cakes are ideal. True to the tea party theme, everything should be small. So if you can’t find small pastries, get some that are easily cut and divided. Likewise, creating tea sandwiches is all about being dainty. You want to create something small and pretty. Of course, it also needs to taste good. The easiest way to do this is to start by assembling multiple (and different) standard sized (but thin) sandwiches, then cut them down to more petit sizes. With the exception of the avocado, these sandwiches can also be prepped a few hours in advance.
Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza “the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...” ZAGAT USER
Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza
“The wood fired oven along with the homemade cheese just can’t be beat. ” PM
“Love it. Thin crust, very good choice of topping. Unbeatable Beer pitcher price.” CB
PIZZA LOVE Cut fresh herbs onto your amazing wood fired oven pizza. Made in just 5–7 minutes.
800 6th Ave (btwn 27th & 28th St) (212) 213-5042
From The Associated Press
WaldysPizza.com Follow us
Use small cookie cutters for fun shapes.
RECIPE MOTHER’S DAY TEA SANDWICHES
DIRECTIONS
Prep time: 30 minutes Makes 16 to 20 petite sandwiches
Place the slices of bread on a cutting board; 4 will be bottoms, 4 will be tops. Spread butter over 2 slices, cream cheese on another 2, marmalade on another 2, and brie over the final 2.
INGREDIENTS • 8 thin slices tight-crumb bread, such as brioche, pumpernickel or a country-style white bread • Softened salted butter • Softened cream cheese • Orange marmalade • Very soft brie cheese • Thinly sliced radishes • Thinly sliced cucumbers • Watercress • Thinly sliced ham • 1 avocado, pitted and sliced • Fresh tarragon • Fresh chives • Thinly sliced pear
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
DIRECTIONS
For the fillings, arrange the sliced radishes over 1 of the buttered slices; the cucumber slices over the 1 of the cream cheese slices; the watercress over 1 of the marmalade slices; and the ham over 1 of the brie-covered slices. Top the radishes with thin slices of avocado; the cucumber with tarragon; the chives over the watercress; and the pear over the ham. Top each sandwich with the second slice of bread. To cut the sandwiches, you can either use small cookie cutters (shapes such as ovals or hearts are fine) or you can trim off the crusts, then cut each sandwich into small triangles or rectangles. If desired, secure each smaller sandwich with a toothpick.
60 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted at the center comes out with just a few moist crumbs.
Heat the oven to 350 F. Coat a Bundt or tube pan with baking spray.
Allow the cake to cool in the pan for 20 minutes before turning out on a rack to finish cooling.
To make the cake, in a large bowl, use an electric mixer on medium-high speed to beat together the brown sugar, butter, baking soda, salt, ginger, nutmeg and vanilla until well combined. Add the oil and beat until light and fluffy, scraping down the bowl once or twice. Add the eggs, one at a time, scraping the bowl between additions.
When the cake is cooled and ready to serve, prepare the buttermilk cream. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into a large bowl. Add the buttermilk, cream and sugar, then use an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment to whisk on medium-high until very soft peaks form. Serve slices of the cake topped with the cream and additional raspberries and shaved chocolate.
In a small bowl, sift together the cocoa powder and flour. Add the flour mixture to the moist ingredients in 2 increments, alternating with the buttermilk, mixing briefly between each addition. Stir in the beets and chocolate, then gently fold in the raspberries. Spoon the mixture into the prepared pan and bake for 50 to
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D8 May 8–14, 2015
Epoch Taste www.TheEpochTimes.com
SWILL, SIP, & SWIG
Goshen’s Orange County Distillery Old School, Really New
By Kati Vereshaka | Epoch Times Staff
T
he way that the Orange County Distillery got started sounds like an indie film script about two friends who, on a fateful Christmas Eve, were drinking and chatting when they stumbled upon a great idea. The dialogue goes like this: John: Hey Bryan, I have 6,000 pounds of sugar beets sitting in my warehouse—do you wanna make vodka? Bryan: Yeah, sure. And that’s literally, how it all began. Fifth-generation farmer John Glebocki and Bryan Ensall, owner of a lawn care franchise in Orange County, New York, found that they both had time on their hands during their annual four-month winter offseason. Black Dirt and Small Batches That’s when they decided to take their friendship to the next level and partner up to make some moonshine. Except that they have a license, and what they make is far from the bootleg moonshine that used to make people go blind. The two friends founded the Orange County Distillery almost exactly one year ago within a stone’s throw of the famous black dirt fields of Goshen. Glebocki and Ensall are hands-on in the truest sense of the word. “We grow everything. John grows every single ingredient we need—the sugar beets, the corn, the rye, the barley, and the botanicals. So we don’t buy a single ingredient from anybody else, which is very rare. We have complete control,” said Ensall. They make small batches: sugar beet vodka; gin laced with aromatics like lemon balm, citrus mint, angelica root, coriander, sumac, lavender, and of course juniper; and five types of whiskey. They distill a corn whiskey, a bourbon, an unaged single malt whiskey, and an aged version of the single malt, which they are currently aging in the same charred barrels previously used for the bourbon. As Ensall recounted their short journey with a very steep learning curve, you could smell the next batch of gin cooking with the aroma of juniper.
The sugar beet vodka is a big hit.
We grow every single ingredient we need. So we don’t buy a single ingredient from anybody else, which is very rare. Bryan Ensall, co-owner, Orange County Distillery
Equipment used in the distilling room at Orange County Distillery.
“We don’t have any background, neither of us has taken a class. It’s just a lot of reading, and trial and error. That’s how we learned,” said Ensall. On our visit to the distillery, they had made a minuscule batch of honey whiskey which, for now, can only be tasted at the distillery. It was another experiment that exceeded Ensall and Glebocki’s expectations and there are plans afoot to make more later. As we discussed the humble sugar beet, Ensall wondered why there isn’t more sugar beet vodka available, because “it turns out that sugar beet vodka is quite unique and very good, and people love it. Restaurants love it the most.” While demand for their spirits is growing, for now, they sell from their farm and, luckily for New York City restaurateurs, they are the first and only distillery ever allowed at a New York City farmers market—more precisely at Union Square and Brooklyn’s Fort Green market. That has turned out to be a good distribution channel to restaurants and bars because they go there to source produce and taste local ingredients. As word is spreading, so is the demand for Orange County Distillery spirits. Ensall points out that they can match medium-size distilleries with their current equipment and although there are plans to expand, the two friends are thinking longterm.
for other farm-to-table producers. They just bought another barn, two miles from the distillery, destined to become a huge tasting room and to provide a place for other New York farm breweries, wineries, and even distilleries to sell on tap. It will have a kitchen catering finger food and 23 acres where people can brings their children and play. Both are family men and understand the value of outdoors recreation, and as Ensall said, “Who doesn’t like to drink outdoors?” They are also keen on establishing a farmers market that will sell their produce and attract other farmers to sell theirs. As Ensall stood outside the old, red barn pointing to where everything is going to be, his gestures bespoke of something rare—a guy who is at an exciting place in his life, brimming with ideas about growing his own small world with benefits for everyone else around him. It proves that “old-school” can be the best way to go about establishing a distillery. “We are true 100 percent farm-to-bottle, you can’t get much more local than we are. We’re taking [the ingredients] from right here, where the fields are,” said Ensall pointing to the black dirt field next to the red barn which, for now, is home to one of the youngest distilleries in New York state. ALL PHOTOS BY KATI VERESHAKA/EPOCH TIMES
Irene Took the Onions and Everything Else Glebocki, the farmer, has been thinking longterm ever since superstorm Irene flooded his fields and he saw his crops, as well as the other farmers’ crops, floating for days in its aftermath. Their plans are to diversify so that if something like a hurricane hits again, Glebocki still has a fall-back crop, should another one fail. And as Ensall points out, alcohol has an unlimited shelf life, unlike corn or onions. He is currently growing spring onions—a typical spring crop—as far as the eye could see on his fields. The operation strives for sustainability. All the water used in the distilling process goes back out to the ditch that waters the fields. Where Does the Moonshine Go? And then there’s the high-proof alcohol called “the four shots” that can’t be used for drinking. It’s the stuff that would make people go blind for a week once they consumed it. As pure ethanol, it now comes in handy as diesel fuel for the farm truck. But the two friends are also thinking big in the sense of growing the local area into a hub
Equipment used in the distilling room at Orange County Distillery.
Demand for spirits from Orange County Distillery is growing.
The tasting room.
Bryan Ensall, co-owner of Orange County Distillery.
The old red barn that is home to Orange County Distillery in Goshen, N.Y., on Apr. 29.
Epoch Taste
D9 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
PETR SVAB/EPOCH TIMES
Gluten-Free with Dining in Erin Smith the City Erin Smith continued from D3 When preparing food for someone with celiac disease, you have to be very careful about crosscontact with gluten-filled food. This means that all preparation including cutting boards, utensils, serving spoons, and even ovens need to be segregated to prevent contamination from gluten. People with celiac disease can have a reaction from even the smallest crumb of gluten. I appreciate restaurants exploring gluten-free options, but I really wish there was more education in the kitchen about celiac disease and being gluten-free for medical purposes. Gluten-free menus need to go beyond ingredients. Epoch Times: You work with restaurants that want to offer truly gluten-free options. What kind of services do you offer? Ms. Smith: I work with restaurants and companies that are trying to better understand and reach the gluten-free market. I help them learn about celiac disease and a gluten-free lifestyle. I also guide them to different staff training programs such as GREAT Kitchens, a kitchen training program started by the National Foundation for Celiac Awareness. This is an online course for chefs, managers, and waitstaff to learn all about gluten-free food preparation and handling. I have worked closely with the NFCA for many years both through my website and in-person events and have recently become an ambassador for this program. Menutrinfo is another food training program that can certify a restaurant as gluten-free. They also have extensive allergen training programs through their AllerTrain online course. Epoch Times: Where might gluten unexpectedly lurk? Ms. Smith: Hidden gluten is a big challenge. There are places that someone newly diagnosed would never even think to look such as salad dressings, soy sauce (made from wheat!), spices, natural flavorings, and so much more. Candy can often contain gluten, which many people don’t think of. For example, Twizzlers are made from wheat. Label reading is essential for people who are gluten-free. Even after being gluten-free for more than 30 years, I still always read the labels because you never know when a manufacturer is going to change ingredients. It happens more than you realize. Another source of hidden gluten is in medications. The FDA food labeling doesn’t cover medicine so the celiac community needs to advocate for better labeling. My biggest piece of advice is to call the drug manufacturer to inquire about ingredients before ingesting any new medications. As someone that travels frequently, language barriers and cultural differences are often challenging. People don’t always understand what gluten-free means, especially in gluten-heavy cuisines and cultures. I always bring translation cards with me when I travel abroad and even use them in ethnic restaurants around New York City. These translation cards clearly define what gluten-free means and what foods contain gluten in other languages. While these
cards and the gluten-free might not be culturally accepted, at least they can communicate my dietary restrictions. Epoch Times: How can you tell if a dish is truly gluten-free? Ms. Smith: Unfortunately, there is no foolproof way to ensure your dish is 100 percent glutenfree unless you make it yourself or you go to a completely gluten-free restaurant. There are some at-home testers that exist but I have never personally used one of these kits. If I have any doubts something might not be completely gluten-free, I will not eat it. It is too risky. Epoch Times: What has been one of your most glorious solo trips? Ms. Smith: I have so many favorite trips that it is hard to choose just one. My first solo trip was in 2005 when I went to Sedona, Arizona and the Grand Canyon. While my friends were all slaving away in their New York City cubicles, I was exploring the great outdoors on my own. It was such a rewarding experience. Since then, I have been on more than 10 solo vacations. I find traveling alone such a wonderful and liberating experience. I highly recommend it to everyone at least once in their lives. I absolutely fell in love with the city of Rome. The history, the amazing gluten-free food, the beautiful people, it was all so wonderful. I do not like to travel to the same place twice because I have such a long list of places I want to go, but I would return to Rome in a heartbeat. The trip that felt like my most challenging yet successful was my two-week trip to Thailand. I was very worried about the cultural differences and language barrier when it came to eating in Thailand. There were definitely days I went hungry rather than get possible gluten contamination but I did manage to not get sick at all in Thailand. I used Thai translation cards throughout my trip and ate tons of delicious fresh fruit throughout my trip. I found a small roadside restaurant in Ko Pha Ngan that finally understood my translation card and fed me pad thai daily for a few days in a row. I also had the amazing experience of sharing my leftover gluten-free pad thai and banana leaf with an elephant in the jungle of Chiang Mai, a day I will never forget! Epoch Times: If you could eat anything you wanted from anywhere around the world, what would you have for breakfast, lunch, and dinner? Ms. Smith: Wow, that is a tough question! My favorite breakfast/brunch sandwich ever was the deep-fried gluten-free Monte Cristo from Coquette’s in Colorado Springs. I would eat a big lunch of Colombian patacones from the El Pilon food cart in Portland, Oregon. I would have dinner at a gluten-free friendly trattoria in Italy with gluten-free pasta, pizza, and Italian wine. Finally, I would fly over to Paris for a gluten-free dessert from Helmut Newcake, a place that I have not yet been to but is on my wish list!
HARMONY THE SPIRIT OF SUSHI ZEN TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
Over the past 10 years, I have actually found it easier to eat glutenfree abroad than at home in the United States.
All the dishes at Senza Gluten are gluten-free.
Gluten-Free Italian? Yes, at Senza Gluten By Rowena Tsai Epoch Times Staff
I was very surprised to find so many gluten-free options in Italy.
Although gluten-free and delicious typically sit at opposite ends of a really, really long dinner table, it is clearly not the case at Senza Gluten. Had the restaurant been named something else (“senza” means “without” in Italian), I would not have known that every single dish I was inhaling was gluten-free. Chef Jemiko L. Solo put his heart and soul into Senza Gluten, a completely gluten-free restaurant. With the belief that anyone on a gluten-free diet should not have to miss out on flavors, textures, or delicious options, Solo is dedicated to creating an Italian haven for those living with celiac disease. His passion shines through the food he makes, and the incredibly accommodating hospitality he and his staff offer to every single customer who walks through the door. He knew early on that he wanted to create a completely gluten-free menu and restaurant that is safe for individuals with celiac disease. To ensure such a vision, Solo brought on board self-taught gluten-free consultant Erin Smith to confirm that all the ingredients used are gluten-free. Many nights, Solo would sleep on the couch in the restaurant’s basement so that he could have time alone at night to experiment with new dishes. If you ever find your way to Senza Gluten, the eggplant parmesan, lasagna, three-mushroom bruschetta, and tiramisu are all must-tries.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Jemiko L. Solo.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Tiramisu.
Taste Asia
D10 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
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QA &
Corey Lee on the Craft of Being a Chef
— ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
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avid Chang once called Corey Lee “one of the best chefs on Earth.” Lee recently penned “Benu,” named after his three-Michelinstarred restaurant in San Francisco. Don’t expect to cook from “Benu,” though. Presented as a 32-course tasting menu, it takes you inside Lee’s mind—his process, discovery, and memories. Beautifully photographed, it is evocative, taking you along on Lee’s personal and culinary journey. We sat down with Lee last week for a chat before he set off to Hong Kong and South Korea on his international book tour. Epoch Times: You spent nearly nine years working under Thomas Keller. How did you know when it was time to strike out on your own?
Pork Katsu
Corey Lee, owner and chef of Benu, at The NoMad Hotel, Manhattan, on April 30.
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The inherent quality of a material or ingredient has to be there. It’s something beyond what you see.
Mr. Lee: I don’t think there was this single moment. I talked about it a bit in the book. There was something I wanted to try and do at The French Laundry, which didn’t work out, and maybe that was the catalyst for the final decision but it’s something I was thinking about or at least sensing for a while. It definitely had to do with the desire to explore a cuisine that was not appropriate for the restaurant. This is really about Asian food and the food of my upbringing and the flavors that I grew up with and found in Asian cuisine. So it was the desire to explore that and see what the potential for Asian food is in fine dining and cuisine. Over the years there were things I wanted to do or try and I would stop myself from really exploring them. That started to happen more and more. As I got older my curiosity for cooking with Asian products and doing modern food with Asian ingredients grew. So at some point I realized I needed a place of my own to fully explore that.
Epoch Times: At the beginning you mentioned people asked you what kind of cuisine you were cooking at Benu. Mr. Lee: Thankfully now after being open for five years that question is probably asked less often. Maybe people don’t understand it or know how to describe it, but they can get a sense of what it is. It’s tough because there’s not this one word that you can kind of encapsulate the restaurant with. But I’m not sure if you can do that with any restaurant. What kind of food is served here? [at The NoMad] What do you call that food? Is it French American? The chef is Swiss. We’re in New York. Yesterday we had a hamburger, a hot dog, a foie gras pot pie, carrot tartare, so what kind of food is that? Epoch Times: So Benu is really a reflection of you. Mr. Lee: Yeah, as this is a reflection of Daniel [Humm] I think. If we’re not talking about classic cuisines or even in American regional cuisines like Southern food, then you’re really talking about a style of cooking that’s really unique to a restaurant or a chef. The important thing is that the descriptions that are out there encourage people to come. And then once guests do come it’s for them to interpret what they’re having and find a way to explain it to themselves or understand it themselves. I don’t think finding a name for that cui-
Epoch Times: While reading the book, I felt I was on this journey you took when you opened Benu. What was the toughest part about the first year? Mr. Lee: There’s so much actually. I look back on it and if I had known how much of a struggle it would be, it might have discouraged me a little bit. But you go into things kind of blindly and you tackle one hurdle at a time and get through it. The time we opened was 2010. We prepared for that opening in 2009. And the economy was not what it is today. There were restaurants closing all the time. There were even these sites that tracked how empty restaurants were, for people’s entertainment really. It goes to show you the restaurant climate just five years ago. It’s drastically different now. As an entrepreneur there’s a certain degree of fear, and then our guests coming in without knowing what to expect was a challenge too. But I look back now and we wouldn’t have known how to meet their expectation other than “This is a work in progress, I think” because to be honest with you we didn’t know ourselves. I feel when we first opened I had one foot in a more classical Western French style cooking and another foot in some unknown area
and it took some time to step out on our own and start to cook in a way that I thought was really cohesive and unique to our restaurant. It doesn’t just happen overnight. It takes some time to find an identity. Coming also from a very recognized restaurant there was an expectation that it would be something like that, which for me, that is the opposite of what I wanted to do. The last thing I wanted to do was to have a derivative of anything, really.
ERIC WOLFINGER/”BENU” BY COREY LEE, $59.95. PHAIDON 2015. PHAIDON.COM
Corey Lee’s restaurant Benu in San Francisco.
Taste Asia
D11 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com ERIC WOLFINGER/”BENU” BY COREY LEE, $59.95. PHAIDON 2015. PHAIDON.COM
sine is necessarily the responsibility of that restaurant. I think if there is one, it helps. It helps people understand what you’re trying to do. It helps reach audiences, it helps people talk about it. There are definitely benefits to finding a catchy phrase to describe your cuisine. I just haven’t been able to do that. And I haven’t really felt the need to do that, even though I get asked.
Contemporary Thai street food
Epoch Times: In your book you mention how you felt about kimchi at some point and how you felt about your grandmother’s anchovy stock. You didn’t like these flavors. Tell me about the evolution of your palate and how you reconnect with those flavors.
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Mr. Lee: I was pretty sensitive in my palate and my sense of smell when I was very young. It was something that really annoyed the rest of my family. In terms of my sensitivity to certain flavors and their intensity I’m still pretty sensitive actually. We had a pizza night and I was picking the chilies off because I just can’t handle the spice. As a chef I’ve come to understand how to tame them and how to have them work and harmonize with other flavors within the context of a dish.
BANGKOK
STREET FARE
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Epoch Times: The book touches on the Japanese aesthetic principle of shibui. What role does shibui play in the presentation of your dishes?
ERIC WOLFINGER/”BENU” BY COREY LEE, $59.95. PHAIDON 2015. PHAIDON.COM
Mr. Lee: Shibui was something that my architect talked about a lot [during the opening time] and it stuck with me. I don’t go into a dish and think “It’s our aesthetic goal” but once in a while it helps me when I’m wondering if a dish is complete or if I should add something or if something is powerful enough. Shibui is all about making sure the things you are offering have real weight to them and are significant and of substance. If you have an ebonized piece of oak that’s aged, with character, and there’s nothing on it, that’s shibui because the material itself has integrity, has history and value, and it’s beautiful. It’s reflective of nature. It’s not just sparse or minimalist, it’s making sure that the things you’re using are things of quality and I think that’s more important than being minimalist. It’s about the inherent quality of a material or ingredient has to be there. It’s something beyond what you see.
Ultimately … we’re craftsmen. We have to stay true to that. Everything else comes second.
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品味朝鮮王朝的 美味佳餚(三樓)
“Benu” by Corey Lee, Phaidon, 2015, $59.95. Phaidon.com ERIC WOLFINGER/”BENU” BY COREY LEE, $59.95. PHAIDON 2015. PHAIDON.COM
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體驗文人墨客的 詩情雅意 ( 二樓 )
It has to start there and stay there if you want to be an active chef. Some chefs change and become businessmen and that’s really what they are, and the chef part becomes second or they’ve delegated that to someone. The kind of chef who’s going to stay in the kitchen, who’s still working with other people and cooking, that’s craft.
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The dish is made with toasted acorn flour. Acorns are a traditional Korean ingredient.
Epoch Times: In running a restaurant, you have to juggle being a businessman, an artist, and you’re also thinking of customers. What aspect of restaurant work do you enjoy most? Mr. Lee: You mentioned being an artist and being a businessman. Ultimately we’re not businessmen or artists although we become [these] some of the time. Ultimately we’re artisans, we’re craftsmen. Artists are different. Artists are like, “I’m going to make something because I’m inspired.” And craftsmen, they have to make something because people need them. We work with our hands to create things that we use to sustain our lives. It’s not at our choosing or so whimsical. It’s something we have to do, like making furniture. And of course running a business is a big part. As time goes on you realize how important that is, but ultimately we go into this because we’re craftsmen. We have to stay true to that. And everything else comes second. You have to be a good craftsman before you ever have any opportunity to do anything artistic. You have to be a good craftsman before you even think of being a businessman.
Beggar’s Purse of Treasures From the Oak.
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212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
Taste Asia
D12 May 8–14, 2015
www.TheEpochTimes.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
CICI’S FOOD PARADISE
CiCi Li learns to make duck dumplings at Uncle Ted’s restaurant in Greenwich Village.
Fairy Tale Dumplings Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus on sushi and excel at the one thing that mattered most.
Over three decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like.
By CiCi Li Plenty of stories are told around dining tables and food that unite us. As a Chinese-American, oftentimes the magic element that brings us together is the dumpling. Since I was a little child, my family has gathered around the dining table and made dumplings. The sounds of chitchat and laughter filtered even through the living room. There was flour on the table—and perhaps on the floor around the table too. Grandma started the reunion by creating the enchanted dough with just flour and water. Everyone had something to do. Some were in charge of getting the filling ready. Others were in charge of scooping the filling onto the wrappers and sealing them. And of course, all of us were responsible for the eating part.
The dumpling is a celebratory and staple food for Chinese. It’s like ravioli, and it has a filling sealed inside a flour-based wrapper. The fillings are only limited by one’s imagination– minced chicken, pork, beef, lamb, vegetables, or seafood. And the dumplings can be made into many dierent shapes as well. At Uncle Ted’s Modern Chinese Cuisine in Greenwich Village in New York City, Ted Chang’s specialty is duck dumplings. I had never had them before and thought I’d love to try. So a couple of days ago, I went to his kitchen, and he taught me his secret recipe. According to Chang, duck dumplings are made into the shape of a woman’s shoe. It’s sort of like Cinderella’s glass slipper, translucently stunning. The recipe is surprisingly easy and yet shockingly delicious. I believe this is a recipe with a fairy tale ending: uniting your whole family. Happy eating!
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btw madison & 5th Ave.)
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RECIPE UNCLE TED’S DUCK DUMPLINGS Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Makes 2 servings
ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists
INGREDIENTS
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12 dumpling wrappers 1 duck breast, minced, about 8 ounces 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon oyster sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon white pepper
DIRECTIONS Mix the minced duck breast, sugar, oyster sauce, salt, and white pepper together
to make the filling. Place 1 tablespoon of filling on each dumpling wrapper. Dip one fingertip in a bowl of water and dampen the edge of the dumpling wrapper. (Press and firmly seal three edges of the wrapper together to create a triangular dumpling. Then two of the sides down and inward to form circular shapes. Place the dumplings on a steamer and cook for 8 minutes. Carefully take out the dumplings and enjoy. Recipe adapted from Uncle Ted’s, 163 Bleecker St. CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradise� on NTD Television. She’s also a food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventures and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise� at CiCiLi.tv