SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 May 13–19, 2016
Harlem Gems on
D6
Patrons gather around the bar at Syndicated, a restaurant and movie theater in Bushwick, Brooklyn—many likely waiting for a showing. The theater is in the back, at the end of the corridor on the left. SA M I R A
Dinner and a Show
BOUA OU/ EP
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Raising the Bar
Among Syndicated’s theater menu items are the Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Loaded Tater Tots, and Quesadillas.
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By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
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Singer and actress Audra McDonald and husband Will Swenson at Feinstein’s/54 Below.
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COURTESY OF FEINSTEIN’S/54 BELOW
Chef Lynn Bound’s first introduction to Feinstein’s/54 Below was a performance by Patti LuPone. “She’s a lovely person,” said Bound, who got to meet her.
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COURTESY OF FEINSTEIN’S/54 BELOW
Curry-inflected chicken nuggets with pickled mustard seeds on Bibb lettuce at Rider in Williamsburg.
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See Showtime on D2
For an opera about Orpheus and Eurydice, Rider’s chef Patrick Connolly prepared a food board inspired by ancient Roman wedding feasts.
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When archeologists from the Museum of London Archeology excavated the site of London’s Rose Playhouse beginning in the late 1980s, they found evidence of nuts, fruits—like apples, plums, grapes—and lots of shellfish, including oysters, mussels, crabs, periwinkles, and cockles. If you thought the sound of someone chewing popcorn was loud, try the repetitious sound of shells being dropped on the ground throughout a show. These days, you’re likely to encounter better decorum when it comes to respecting artists’ work (on second thought, that’s arguable, I’ll admit). And while plenty of entertainment venues provide food and drink for the crowd, only some are rising to the challenge of pleasing palates.
At Feinstein’s/54 Below, chef Lynn Bound sources high-quality ingredients, such as King Ora salmon.
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t may be an idea as old as theater itself—drinking and eating during a show. Watching performances in the age of Shakespeare, for example, was never particularly quiet. It was what might be called interactive theater these days, with its audiences booing and cheering, augmented by the calls of food merchants weaving through the crowds.
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May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com JEREMY DANIEL
JEREMY DANIEL
The Crab Special at Feinstein’s/54 Below.
At the intimate Feinstein’s/54 Below, no seat is more than 24 feet from the stage.
Dinner and a Show Raising the Bar
Showtime continued from D1 For example at Rider, the Williamsburg restaurant newly opened this spring inside the same building as performing arts venue National Sawdust, patrons can order and eat during the shows. The hors d’oeuvres-type items, ordered from the Reception menu, are easy to eat without silverware—which would be disruptive. Guests check off their picks on a menu card much like a dim sum menu, chef Patrick Connolly explained. And although many patrons might be fixated on the show, Connolly’s bites are bound to get some attention.
Connolly, a James Beard Award winner, serves tender Medjool dates filled with ‘nduja—a spicy pork spread of Calabrian origins. The interplay of sweet, savory, and spicy is arresting. Another great pick is the duck confit rolled in Swiss chard leaves; the hoisin sauce with the duck will remind you of Peking duck. Other offerings include Smoked Hake Toast with horseradish and roasted watercress, and for a dose of nostalgia, Chicken Nuggets. Wrap up these curry-flavored nuggets in the Bibb lettuce and there’s a lovely satisfaction that comes from the crunch of the nugget, and the freshness of the lettuce and pickled mustard seeds.
SET SAIL TO SAGAPONACK
While plenty of entertainment venues provide food and drink for the crowd, only some are rising to the challenge of pleasing palates.
Rider
80 N. Sixth St. Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-210-3152 brooklynrider.com
Feinstein's/ 54 Below
254 W. 54th St. Manhattan 646-476-3551 54below.com
Syndicated
The shrimp are plump and juicy, the clams have that justbeen-picked out of the ocean brininess, and the scallops boast a lovely sweetness. Many dishes at Sagaponack are perfect vehicles to showcase quality Long Island seafood.
Broadway’s Supper Club By the end of a spring evening at Feinstein’s/54 Below in Midtown, there was hardly a dry eye around me. Tony Award-winning star Paulo Szot had wooed and charmed the audiences with his baritone voice and was receiving a standing ovation and requests for an encore. Feinstein’s/54 Below is an intimate venue—it seats 134 people, but no table is more than 24 feet away from the stage. The venue opened in 2012, when Tony Award-winning producers Tom Viertel, Marc Routh, Richard Frankel, and Steven Baruch (of “Hairspray” and “The Producers”) decided to launch a nightspot that would bring together world-class entertainment with dining to match. In the fall of 2014, they hired executive chef Lynn Bound, who previously worked for Danny Meyer’s restaurant group at the SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
4 W. 22nd St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-229-2226
40 Bogart St. Bushwick, Brooklyn 718-386-3399 syndicatedbk.com
Recently, for an opera performance about Orpheus and Eurydice, he created boards of delectables, inspired by ancient Roman wedding feasts, that were served to guests about 18 minutes into the performance—polenta with date and anchovy sauce, chickpea fritter with yogurt, fregola with turnips, roasted celeriac with Apicius glaze, grape leaf, feta, pomegranate tea, and olive leaves and edible flowers. Connolly is a music lover and enjoys the perk of popping over next door during the afternoon rehearsal or at the end of the night, going up to the balcony through the second floor of the restaurant, to catch the late show. Even though the restaurant and the venue are in the same building, he said he can’t hear anything in the kitchen. “The two main things that the founders of National Sawdust wanted were great food and impeccable acoustics,” Connolly said. The walls are suspended on springs and there are two sets of acoustical doors. “You can have death metal in the venue—not that it would ever happen—and I could step 5 feet into the restaurant and it would be silent,” he said. The venue hosts private functions when there’s no show going on; with its audio and video capabilities, it’s especially attractive to tech companies. It’s also equipped with white felt panels, on which anything can be projected. “It looks almost stark, almost futuristic, but you can really soften it up with projecting. You can alter the feel of the room. It’s very flexible,” Connolly said.
sagaponacknyc.com
Lynn Bound, the executive chef at Feinstein’s/ 54 Below.
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SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Dishes on Rider’s Reception menu are designed to be handheld.
(Clockwise from top C) "Gougères;" Duck Confit rolled in Swiss chard, hoisin, cilantro, and pickles; Smoked Hake Toast with horseradish and roasted watercress; 'Nduja Stuffed Dates; and Chicken Nuggets with Bibb lettuce, basil, and pickled mustard seeds.
Dinner and a Movie Tim Chung, a former film and TV location scout, saw that many people were not going out to the movies anymore. With the window of time between seeing a movie in a theater and watching it on iTunes reduced to a matter of weeks, he felt that many people just wanted to stay home. He said his mission is, “Let’s make going to the movies an event again,” creating venues where moviegoers can order food, desserts, and alcohol. Taking inspiration from venues like the Alamo Drafthouse Cinema in Texas that offer movies, drinks, and food under one roof, he opened Syndicated in Bushwick, Brooklyn, earlier this year, where a single movie
ticket costs $3. Curating the movies is his favorite part of the job. Last month he had a director spotlight on the Coen brothers and Alfred Hitchcock. This month, it’s movies about hitting the road, from “Little Miss Sunshine” to “Thelma & Louise” to “Dumb and Dumber,” and earlier this month the more galactic-minded “Spaceballs” and “Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy.” Executive chef Bret Macris, who hails from Los Angeles, brings a fine dining touch to the comfort food and is particular about his sourcing, choosing Niman Ranch and local distributor Heritage Foods for its small producers. Syndicated has two menus: one for the main dining room and another for the theater, where patrons can check off their orders on a menu ticket. The rhythm of conventional restaurants follows a predictable pattern, Macris said—first diners arriving at 6:30 p.m., filling the restaurant around 8 p.m., and then starting to trickle out around 9 p.m. “It’s not like that [at Syndicated],” he said. “It’s a really wondrous thing. Let’s say tonight we have an 8:10 [show]. Right around 7:40 this place will pack in and somebody will come out [and say], ‘Now seating for the 8:10 showing of “Trainwreck”,’ and you watch the entire bar clear out, like ‘What happened?’” Macris is mindful of creating food that is easily eaten in the dark and not too messy— although the best-selling Loaded Tater Tots, with pulled pork, beer cheese Mornay sauce, sour cream, and jalapeño, or the popular Buttermilk Fried Chicken with French fries, might prove audiences don’t care too much about keeping neat. Sometimes the food matches the film—there were White Russians available for the showing of “The Big Lebowski” in January, and a Royale with Cheese—a burger that stayed on the theater menu after a screening of “Pulp Fiction.” For dessert, the beer float—the current version with Keegan’s Mother’s Milk, chocolate ice cream, caramel sauce, and whipped cream—is one of those things that happily forgive you if you let it melt a little longer. “It’s a ridiculous thing,” Macris said. “Most shakes or most things like that, you don’t want them to sit too long. But with a beer float, if you let this thing sit for an extra five minutes, it all starts to coalesce; it’s better, the longer it sits.” That’s good to know if you get really into the movie. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Patrick Connolly is the executive chef and owner of Rider, a restaurant located in the same building as performing arts venue National Sawdust.
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Museum of Modern Art. Bound, who used to love going to Broadway shows, now has them at her door every night— and afternoons during sound checks. “I love the intimacy of it,” she said. Many of the guests are regulars who come every week, and some come even more often, she added. “It’s a really sensory experience, to come in and forget about life for a while, so to say.” As Feinstein’s/54 Below offers a pre-show menu, it’s not unusual for the kitchen to be hit with 100 orders at once. Bound, who is known for her nurturing leadership style, is proud of her kitchen team. “They know the drill they’re good at it. They just execute well. They’re calm, that’s the key.” Here noises do carry to and from the kitchen, so once a show starts, the kitchen goes into ninja mode. “If it’s an acapella song, we’ll be totally still,” she said. Bound’s cuisine is ingredient-forward, shaped by the seasons and by high-quality sourcing, with dishes like King Ora king salmon with citrus vinaigrette, or filet mignon from Creekstone with a potato grain and chimichurri sauce. If you’ve ordered dessert, it comes to your table about halfway through the show, which gives you a nice break after your main entree. The dinner menu later gives way to more snacky types of items as the evening wears on toward a second show—with mac and cheese and charcuterie, although a late dinner is routine for many. With its star-attracting power, Feinstein’s/54 Below could do very well with only passable food; instead it is setting the bar high for other entertainment venues.
(Top) Movie goers watch “Trainwreck” at Syndicated. They can indicate their orders on the menus, which are discreetly picked up by waiters. (Middle) Syndicated managing partner Tim Chung (L) and executive chef Bret Macris. (Bottom) The Loaded Tater Tots with pulled pork.
FLAVORS UNDER THE SALERNO SUN San Pietro Presents SPRING/SUMMER PRIX FIXE MENU Dishes include:
Appetizer Zuppa del giorno (Soup of the day) Calamari in guazzetto e fagioli bianchi (Calamari in a light tomato sauce, white beans and aromatic herbs) Main Course piselli e basilico (Spaghetti with fresh tomatoes, peas, and basil) Fettuccine alla bolognese con funghi (Fettuccine with meat sauce, mushrooms, and parmesan cheese) Dessert Tiramisu Chocolate Cake Sorbet or Gelato (a trio combination)
Our very own extra-virgin olive oil produced by Nicolina Bruno, on the Bruno family farm in the hills of Salerno.
Lunch $38, Dinner $48 Patio Seating Only, Menu available until September 20
18 E. 54th St., New York, NY (Between 5th Ave. & Madison Ave.) sanpietroristorantenyc.com
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THE MANY HUES OF ROSE Learn about the many varieties of summertime rosés at the French Institute Alliance Française, and how to pick the right bottle for your entertaining needs. There will be a tasting of six wines, with a selection of cheeses, charcuterie, and breads to pair. $115 per person, $95 for members.
COURTESY OF HARLEM EATUP! FESTIVAL
The entrepreneurs behind Harlem’s Lady Lexis Sweets at last year’s Harlem EatUp! Festival.
Monday, May 23 7 p.m. French Institute Alliance Française Le Skyroom 22 E. 60th St. fiaf.org
TASTE OF HOPE WITH AMERICAN CANCER SOCIETY The American Cancer Society is honoring celebrity chef David Burke, philanthropist and author Jean Shafiroff, and owner of Myriad Restaurant Group (Bâtard, Nobu, Tribeca Grill) Drew Nieporent, at its 11th annual benefit event. A slew of restaurants will provide tastings and beverages, including Telepan, La Fonda del Sol, Magnolia Bakery, and Voilà Chocolat. $200 per person, $275 for VIP. Wednesday, May 25 7 p.m. Metropolitan Pavilion 125 W. 18th St. tasteofhopenyc.org COURTESY OF AMERICAN CANCER SOCIETY
TASTE OF TRIBECA
COURTESY OF HARLEM EATUP! FESTIVAL
Get ready to sample the best eats from Tribeca restaurants, all to benefit local public schools P.S. 150 and P.S. 234. At the outdoor festival, taste dishes from participating restaurants like Bouley, Duane Park Patisserie, Maman, The Odeon, and Tribeca Grill. For beer and wine lovers, Taste of Tribeca has organized tours to different wine shops and pubs around the neighborhood. The festival will also feature live music and child-friendly activities. Saturday, May 21 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Duane St. (between Greenwich & Hudson streets) tasteoftribeca.com
Attendees at last year’s Taste of Hope event. COURTESY OF AMERICAN CANCER SOCIETY
(L–R) Chefs Aarón Sánchez, Marcus Samuelsson, Alex Guarnaschelli, and Scott Conant.
TASTE OF SUNNYSIDE
HARLEM EATUP! FESTIVAL Harlem’s grand food festival is back for a second year. Harlem chefs will collaborate with guest chefs for special dinners, like Marcus Samuelsson and Bobby Flay at Ginny’s Supper Club, Joseph “JJ” Johnson and Jonathan Waxman at The Cecil, Kenichi Tajima and Andy Ricker at Mountain Bird, and Kenneth Woods and Daniel Boulud at Sylvia’s Restaurant. There will also be an outdoor market with tastings of Harlem bites, cocktails, and craft beers, alongside cooking demos by top chefs. $80 to $230 per person for ticketed events. Thursday, May 19–Sunday, May 22 Various locations harlemeatup.com
Underneath the elevated No. 7 train tracks, you’ll get to sample the diverse eats of the Sunnyside neighborhood in Queens. Participating eateries include Punda Tibetan Restaurant, Arriba Arriba (Mexican), Nonna Gina Brick Oven Pizzeria, Salt & Fat (new American), and Tito Rad’s Grill (Filipino). Libations will be provided by local breweries and wine purveyors. $35 per person, $65 for VIP. Tuesday, May 24 5:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Queens Boulevard & 46th St. (under the train tracks) sunnysideshines.org
Chefs Eric LeVine (L) and Dale Talde.
RAMEN LAB The latest guest chef at Sun Noodle’s Ramen Lab is Kenji Chiba, founder of the Japan Ramen Association and owner of the Chibakiya ramen shops in Tokyo, Yokohama, Sendai, and Fukuoka. Chiba is serving classic Tokyo-style shoyu (soy sauce-based) ramen with pork “chashu,” a bowl of perfectly seasoned broth—comforting in its simplicity, not too salty or overpowering in flavor. One of Chiba’s claim to fame is popularizing the use of the soft-boiled egg with a semi-solid, semi-liquid yolk. Unlike the typical preparation, the egg is not runny and won’t spill into the broth. Tuesday-Saturday, through May 28 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Ramen Lab 70 Kenmare St. ramen-lab.com
MOTHER OF PEARL VEGAN BRUNCH We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills” approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
COURTESY OF MOTHER OF PEARL
Polynesian-inspired vegan restaurant Mother of Pearl is now serving vegetablecentric brunch dishes like Panikeke Lapotopoto, fried pancake balls with ambrosia fruit salad, coconut cream, and pineapple rum sauce; Avocado French Toast with ricotta, Sriracha maple syrup, and ambrosia fruit salad; and Cantaloupe Gazpacho with crème fraîche, pineapple salsa, and chili pepper gastrique. Sunny cocktail options include Mexican Summer, with watermelon sugar, lime, and tequila, and Gotcha Colada with matcha, coconut, and rum. Saturdays & Sundays 11:30 a.m. Mother of Pearl 95 Avenue A motherofpearlnyc.com
The Forbidden Fruit cocktail.
The Sou ffle Fell In “Flavors of the African Diaspora,” printed on May 6, a photo caption and sentence describing the pan-roasted venison dish misidentified the accompanying ingredients. The venison dish is cooked with cardamom celery root, ginger broccoli, and housemade harissa. In “Dig In: Stuff to Eat and Drink Around NYC,” the incorrect address was published for Olma Caviar Boutique & Lounge. The correct address is 420 Amsterdam Ave. Epoch Times regrets the errors.
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May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF BEDFORD & CO
BEDFORD & CO BRUNCH Chef John DeLucie is debuting a brunch menu inspired by his travels to Argentina, featuring several wood fire grilled dishes like the Rotisserie Chicken Salad with haricot vert, nugget potatoes, whole grain mustard vinaigrette, and poached egg; Prime Hanger Steak with market greens, bernaise, and fries; and the Bedford Burger—a sure-fire hangover killer with a hunk of tender pork belly atop a burger patty. The made-to-order cinnamon buns are also a must try. Gooey and sweet, they are a leisurely pleasure to unravel over the course of brunch. Sundays Bedford & Co 118 E. 40th St. bedfordandco.com
Avocado Toast.
COURTESY OF MOTHER’S RUIN
COURTESY OF MOTHER’S RUIN
Delicious Italian cuisine prepared with sustainable & local ingredients to enjoy with exceptional wines, craft beer and spirits We open for lunch 12-4pm and dinner 5pm-11pm 129 W. 29th St. (btw. 6th & 7th avenues)
(212) 239-4199
Mother’s Cure cocktail.
#
WineDisciplesEnoteca.com
A spread of brunch dishes.
MOTHER’S RUIN BRUNCH Popular bar Mother’s Ruin is now serving brunch seven days a week. Its twists on classic brunch comfort dishes include the “Real Deal” Maryland Crab Cake Benedict, with big chunks of Chesapeake Bay jumbo lump crabmeat, tangy Old Bay rémoulade, and home fries; Mother’s Biscuits and Gravy with piquant and spicy sausage gravy, poached egg, and fiery pickled cherry peppers; and “Eggo” Waffles—Cholula hot sauce-honey fried chicken served over Eggo waffles with buttermilk dressing and scallions. As for drinks, if you want to make up for ordering an indulgent brunch on a weekday, get the Mother’s Cure cocktail, made with Cruzan blackstrap rum (molasses has essential minerals!), Lillet Rouge, lemon, and a strong kick of ginger (lots of medicinal qualities there) that’s moderated by the gentle fragrance of mint. And don’t forget the dangerous boozy slushies—they’re made with virtuous ingredients like beet and citrus juices, plus a nice dose of rum to keep it fun.
Daily 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Mother’s Ruin 18 Spring St. mothersruinnyc.com
COURTESY OF URBANSPACE
URBANSPACE GARMENT DISTRICT
The New Umami Experience Bara is an attempt to find common ground in tavern culture through the east and west by combining the wine bar tradition of Paris with the Japanese izakaya. The word bara has many meanings, as the restaurant Bara has many faces. Our sensibilities are wild, with a passion for unsulphered wines, spontaneously fermented beers, sour doughs and kimchi, but are also restrained with clean presentations and an attempt to always make clarity of flavor our number one priority.
The outdoor market in the Garment District has returned. Vendors’ treats range from Melt Bakery ice cream sandwiches, to La Sonrisa empanadas, to Red Hook Lobster Pound lobster rolls. Monday–Saturday, through June 24 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Broadway (between 40th & 41st streets) urbanspacenyc.com
We Now Deliver!
58 E. 1st St. (btw. 1st & 2nd avenues) 917-639-3197 - bararestaurantnyc.com
COURTESY OF URBANSPACE
JAPANESE STYLE Karaoke Bar & Lounge
Last year’s Urbanspace in the Garment District.
COURTESY OF NEW TASTE OF THE UPPER WEST SIDE
NEW TASTE OF THE UPPER WEST SIDE For Reservations and Information clubvoa@gmail.com
The Columbus Avenue Business Improvement District is hosting a two-day food festival to raise money for the neighborhood’s charities and beautification projects. The first day is themed Surf and Turf for a summer soirée filled with food and drinks from local restaurants, like Maison Pickle, Playa Betty’s, Momofuku Milk Bar, and Shake Shack. The event will be hosted by Food Network’s Anne Burrell and Alex Guarnaschelli. The second day is themed Best of the West, with Crave Fishbar, RedFarm, Orwasher’s Bakery, Boulud Sud, and other local favorites. Both days will feature live music. $105 to $225 per person. Friday, June 3 & Saturday, June 4 Columbus Avenue (between 76 & 77 streets) newtasteuws.com
Dishes at the 2014 New Taste of the Upper West Side.
✴ 3 VIP Karaoke Rooms
249 East 49th St., 2nd Fl. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) CLUBVOA.NYC
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Hours: Mon–Sat 9pm–3am, Fri 9pm–4am, Sun (bar only) 8pm–2am
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My Harlem:
Yvette Leeper-Bueno KATIE BURTON
By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff
Authentic Japanese FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) 6 Appetizer 6 2 kinds of Sashimi 6 Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (SautĂŠ meals cooked at the table)
Yvette Leeper-Bueno is the owner of VinaterĂa, a restaurant in Harlem oering seasonal fare with Spanish and Italian influences. She walks to work—it’s only seven blocks from home. That would be about seven minutes if she doesn’t meet anyone on the way, but as it turns out, that seldom happens in this neighborhood. “A walk like that should take no time. But in Harlem we are so talkative,â€? she said. “So many owners of restaurants in the neighborhood actually reside here. It makes for a dierent level of care, an even more caring atmosphere. If you live where you actually work, where you have a business, your level of care is that much more.â€? Epoch Times caught up with Leeper-Bueno to ask about a few of her favorite things in the neighborhood.
6 %00%/1
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE:
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
Pure Peruvian Cuisine Ceviche, Our signature dish
Epoch Times: What’s your favorite place to unwind? Yvette Leeper-Bueno: Mindful Harlem, a meditation center that is right next to VinaterĂa. My husband co-founded the center years ago. His dream was to bring the practice of mindfulness to the community. We have these free drop-ins on Saturday mornings, completely donation-based. It’s my number one place to unwind besides my brownstone, in the backyard. To be able to meditate with people of the community and share and breathe together and share a mindful moment together is really transformative. Epoch Times: What’s a lesser known gem in Harlem? Ms. Leeper-Bueno: Everyone knows about Morningside Park but it’s a gem because it has a waterfall and an ascending staircase that’s really long, and if you really want to burn some calories, you can just walk up, and at the end of your journey there’s [the Cathedral of] St. John the Divine.
Epoch Times: What’s your favorite place for a drink? Ms. Leeper-Bueno: It would be 67 Orange Street. It has just the most wonderful cocktail program. It’s a great little speakeasy type of place. Epoch Times: What restaurant would you recommend for a special occasion? Ms. Leeper-Bueno: The Cecil, because it’s large, but there’s also a warm feeling. I would consider VinaterĂa, too. VinaterĂa has been in existence for three years. My husband and I have been living in the neighborhood for 13 to 14 years. We wanted to open that quintessential friendly neighborhood place where really wonderful, heartwarming dishes could be served, a place that would serve as a community gathering point. It really has turned into that. ‌ That’s really what I love to do, connect people through the food and through the little touches that we do. We have two long communal tables; often people right next to one other another, they meet one another. Beautiful friendships have emerged from just having some time together at a communal table. Epoch Times: Tell us about your famed cocktails. Ms. Leeper-Bueno: We have a really very craftoriented cocktail program. We don’t have any of the large brand names; it’s all locally sourced, small-batch production spirits that are really special and wonderful in their genres. All of our drinks have fresh herbs in them, and the window sill is lined with lavender and rosemary. We’re able to use these not only in our food but in our drinks. It’s lush and beautiful. It can’t get fresher than that. VinaterĂa is participating in this year’s HarlemEatUp! Dine In Harlem series on May 20. The event pairs a Harlem chef with another chef for collaborative dinners. Vinateria’s chef Carmen GonzĂĄlez will be joined by chef Alex Stupak of EmpellĂłn. Though the dinner is sold out, a second dinner is being added.
So many owners of restaurants in the neighborhood actually reside here. It makes for a dierent level of care, an even more caring atmosphere. Yvette Leeper-Bueno, owner, VinaterĂa
Openings around NYC
Happy Hour Mon-Fri 4pm- 7pm Free Peruvian chicken wings after 2nd drink
Live Entertainment 7pm-10pm, every Friday
718-224-8505 # 39-32 Bell Blvd, Bayside, NY 11361 www.piurarestaurant.com
MIRELLA CHEESEMAN
Metrograph Commissary The Metrograph, an independent movie house, which opened in March, has now opened a restaurant. The restaurant draws its inspiration from the commissaries of Hollywood in the early part of last century, where stars such as Clark Gable would have their meals alongside film crew, stage hands, and film producers. Argentine chef Norberto Piattoni, who was the former chef de cuisine at Francis Mallmann’s Hotel & Restaurant Garzón in Uruguay, consulted on the menu. Dennis Spina (previously of River Styx, Roebling Tea Room, El Cortez) is the chef. The menu includes dishes such as Steak Tartare with fried capers, spring onions, and
Steak Frites. spiced mayonnaise; Burrata with green tomato salsa verde and walnuts; Roasted Carrots, Radishes and Celeryroot, with chickpea, curry, and herbs. The wine list consists of American and French wines, featuring small producers. Open for dinner daily from 6 p.m. Breakfast, lunch and brunch to follow.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
Rocky Road Fortune Cookie. COURTESY OF IZI
• Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
COURTESY OF IZI
Izi Located at the W New York in Times Square, Izi is a lively 26-seat izakaya with a focus on boutique Japanese and American whiskeys and an extensive list of Japanese sakes and beers. The drinks list is curated by Richard Breitkreutz, formerly of Eleven Madison Park and Craft. Diners have the option of addictive snacks, such as Ginger Togarashi Olives and bonitotopped Dancing Shishito Peppers; a selection of pokes, including Tuna Poke with sake-braised hijiki and garlic chips, and for the vegetableinclined, a vegetarian Spring Poke with asparagus, fava beans, ramps, and radishes in a citrus ponzu. For fried chicken aficionados, the Sticky Fried Chicken takes its cues from a number of dierent culinary influences. It’s twice fried in the Korean tradition and glazed in a sticky sauce of fish sauce, Thai chilies, tamarind, ginger, and peanuts. The inventive sushi menu features Fluke Sashimi with sizzling sesame oil and rolls such Sudachi Shrimp Roll with salmon, pickled cucumber and sudachi lime. Seasonal mochi and a giant rocky road fortune cookie are among the dessert options. Open daily from 5 p.m.
MIRELLA CHEESEMAN
1567 Broadway (at 47th Street) 212-918-1405 izinewyork.com
7 Ludlow St. (between Canal & Hester streets) 212-660-0312 metrograph.com
Zurutto Ramen & Gyoza Bar New ramen spot Zurutto Ramen & Gyoza Bar has opened on the Upper West Side, oering Zurutto Ramen and Spicy Zurutto Ramen (both chicken broth-based), Truffle Dan Dan Ramen, Vegetable Soy Milk Miso Ramen, among other varieties. Menu options also include Kobe Beef Burger and Okonomiyaki, which are Japanese-style pancakes.
142 W. 72nd St. (between Amsterdam & Columbus avenues) 212-498-0022 zurutto.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Sta
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May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Waldy’s pizza pies feature a cracker-thin crust with an audible crunch.
Once you step inside Waldy’s, you can smell the inviting aroma of melting cheese in the oven. Lined up on the shelves are imported San Marzano tomatoes and extra-virgin olive oil. Waldy’s is a pizza joint that takes its ingredients seriously. Its blend of cheeses, for example—Parmesan, Asiago, fontina, and pecorino— is the ultimate combination of umami, enticing your taste buds to keep eating even when your stomach knows it’s full. At the counter, bunches of fresh herbs are set out for diners to snip away and add as pizza toppings: basil, oregano, and rosemary, among others. The pizza dough is given equal importance. Rolled into an oval pie only millimeters thick, it, along with desired toppings, is baked in a blazing wood-fired oven. Out comes a pizza with a cracker-thin crust, charred on the edges just so. Each bite yields an audible crunch. At Waldy’s, you can choose whatever ingredients you’d like on your pie, or select from their signature combinations. Braised Lamb With Roasted Lemon and Oregano pizza ($9 to $24, depending on size) is zesty and hearty at the same time, with shredded bits of lamb that has been braised in garlic, white wine, thyme, celery, and carrots for three hours. The bits of lemon rind—a little tart, a little bitter—are a delightful surprise that brighten up the palate. The Arugula, Garlic, and Sunny-Side Eggs pie ($8 to $22) is like a breakfast comfort dish, featuring runny egg melding with faint notes of garlic. The arugula cuts through the pungent flavors with its bitterness. If you’re undecided, you can never go wrong with a classic Margherita pie ($7.50 to $21). With sweet tomatoes, fresh basil, and mild mozzarella—drizzled with some olive oil—it’s simple and satisfying.
Waldy’s
800 Sixth Ave. 212-213-5042 waldyspizza.com Hours Monday-Saturday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Sunday 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Deliciously Sponsored
Thin-Crust Pizza Done Right at Waldy’s Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.
Yes, you can have pizza for breakfast, with this garlicky Sunny Side Eggs pie.
The wood fire oven inside Waldy’s.
Those are bunches of fresh herbs for you to snip and add to your pizza.
212-594-4963 Bits of roasted lemon add some zing to the Braised Lamb pie.
10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours
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May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Using Whole Grains to Gussy Up That Old Three-Bean Salad By Katie Workman In certain parts of the country, a good three-bean salad is almost always the anchor to a potluck or picnic, the kinds of gatherings where sturdy, crowd-pleasing, portable—and frankly inexpensive—food is wanted. There have been countless variations of three-bean salads made with nothing more complex than the beans and bottled vinaigrette. And they’ve most certainly been well received. But after a while those salads can start to feel heavy and monotonous. I was after something with a fresher feel. In this version, the addition of spelt and canned hearts of palm adds tons of interest. A generous amount of fresh herbs provides brightness. Spelt is a whole grain that been around since ancient times, but now it is only commonly grown in Europe. It fell out of favor in the early 1900s, but now that whole grains are back in the spotlight, it’s becoming popular again. It’s quite chewy and nutty, with large, fat rice-shaped grains. Some people who have wheat intolerances can enjoy spelt, but it is a member of the wheat family, so it’s not suitable for people who are celiac or have more serious wheat aversions. It usually is soaked for several hours before cooking, which reduces the cooking time. When you are cooking the spelt for this recipe, consider making extra. It’s nice to have later in the week for tossing into pilafs, soups and stews. Soak 1 cup of spelt grains in enough water to cover overnight. When ready to cook, drain the spelt. Bring 3 cups of water or broth to a simmer in a medium pot over medium-high heat, add the drained spelt and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the spelt is tender. Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, familyfriendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!� and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.� From The Associated Press
AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH
RECIPE BRIGHT AND HERBY THREE-BEAN SALAD Prep & Cooking Time: 15 minutes Serves: 8 The dressing for this bean salad is quite thick—close to a pesto consistency—but it distributes itself perfectly over the ingredients. Change up the herbs as you like, and feel free to add some other fresh vegetables as well, such as diced zucchini, tomatoes, or avocado. If so, add those shortly before serving. With that exception, you can make this salad up to three days ahead and store it, covered, in the refrigerator.
• 14-ounce can hearts of palm, drained and rinsed, cut into 1/2-inch pieces • 15 1/2-ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed • 15 1/2-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed • 15 1/2-ounce can black beans, drained and rinsed • 1 cup cooked, cooled spelt (see above or follow package directions) • 1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme • 1/4 cup rice vinegar • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1/2 cup finely chopped red onion • Kosher salt and ground black pepper
DIRECTIONS In a large serving bowl, mix together the hearts of palm, kidney beans, chickpeas, black beans, and cooked spelt. In a small bowl, mix together the parsley, basil, thyme, vinegar, olive oil, and onion. Season with salt and pepper. Pour the dressing over the bean salad and toss to coat evenly. Serve at room temperature or slightly chilled. Recipe by Katie Workman
This Pasta Salad Will Turn Ramp Haters Into Lovers AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH
By Katie Workman On the surface, ramps are a lovely harbinger of spring, wild leeks that are unable to be cultivated, hence part of their mystique (think trues). They also are one of the first vegetables to appear in farmers markets and on chefs’ menus after a winter of tubers and citrus. They essentially taste like a very garlicky leek or scallion. But the attention they’ve had has put them firmly on a pedestal, seemingly out
Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! 60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues)
#
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!� and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.� From The Associated Press
DIRECTIONS
PASTA SALAD WITH CHICKEN, GREEN OLIVES, AND RAMP VINAIGRETTE • 1 pound dried penne • 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided • About 40 ramps, cleaned, roots trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces (including leaves) • 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar • 1 tablespoon honey • 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard • 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more to taste • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper, or more to taste • 4 cups cubed cooked chicken • 1 cup roughly chopped green olives • 1/2 cup packed torn fresh basil
OCK RS T
Prep & Cooking Time: 25 minutes Serves: 8
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions. Drain, then rinse under cool water. Set aside.
T TE
Tacos Huaraches Chile Relleno Chilaquile Rojos Made to order
So, I will let the foodies duke it out. I will just continue to prod my children into the trees and derive a perfect shiver of pleasure from cooking with something we pulled up from the ground and didn’t even plant.
RECIPE /SHU GREENART PHOTOGR APHY
SO FRESH!
Authentic & Delicious
of reach of mere home cooks. At the moment, some people still think it’s cool to worship the mighty ramp, and others pronounce ramps “yesterday.� I think the very idea of fashion and a member of the onion family in one sentence is just weird. I also think the flavor is fantastic, and I love that you can use the whole thing, stem to stern. But what I think is even better is the fact that I can drag my kids into a wooded area in Connecticut where we have discovered that ramps grow rampant (sorry, I had to).
Meanwhile, in a medium skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add the ramps and saute for 10 minutes, or until very tender. Set aside. Once the ramps are cooked, in a food processor combine a little more than half of the ramps, the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil, the vinegar, honey, Dijon, salt, and pepper. Puree until smooth. In a large bowl combine the cooked ramps, cooked and cooled pasta, vinaigrette, chicken, olives, and basil. Toss well to combine thoroughly. Recipe by Katie Workman
at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
COURTESY OF SKOSHBOX
Rich Paella Valenciana
Tasting Japan, Snack by Snack By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff If you yearn to experience Japanese culture but can’t make the trip to Japan just yet, you can get a taste of its quirky snack and toy culture with Skoshbox’s latest line of delivery snack boxes. Earlier this month, the snack subscription service launched Japan Box, its largest collection of Japanese treats yet. Each box comes with 12 to 14 snacks, and two mystery toys. This month’s batch includes delights like Japanese purple sweet potato chips— lightly sweet and salty, with a Pringles-like crispiness; takoyaki-flavored pued corn sticks, tasting like the sweet-spicy-umami-loaded sauce that’s drizzled on top of the classic octopus dish; and puddling-flavored corn chips, reminiscent of waes and pancakes, but with a “kuchi-dokeâ€? texture—a Japanese term meaning melt-in-your-mouth. For those with a sweet tooth, there are fettuccineshaped orange-flavored gummies, hitting the perfect spot between sweet and sour; and strawberry-
flavored chocolates in the shape of adorable Sanrio characters (Hello Kitty and her friends). The soft umeboshi candies, meant to taste like traditional pickled plums, are an intriguing blend of salty, sweet, and sour that will make you pucker up. $35 per box; available from skoshbox.com
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May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
A New Trick for Grilling the Perfect Burger By Elizabeth Karmel I thought I knew how to make the perfect burger. Now I know better. I still stand by most of my principles—making your own blend of ground meat, a combination of ground sirloin and ground chuck; working and mixing the meat as little as possible—but I recently discovered a far better way to cook the burgers. I discovered it while attempting to grill tiny samples of a variety of ground beefs (I was searching for just the right blend and didn’t want to make lots of full-size patties). As I pondered how I was going to grill tiny patties without them falling through the grates, I considered a cast-iron grill platter, a thick, flat sheet of cast iron. Bingo! We could grill the bite-sized burgers on the sizzle platter! I placed the platter on the grill grate and started grilling the bites. They were all delicious. But the most exciting part was the rich, brown crust they all developed. The platter turned the gas grill into a flat grill, while the heat of the cast-iron surface deeply caramelized everything it touched. Because the lid was down and there were other foods on the grill, the
A Perfect Fusion of East & West
burgers still got that smoky outdoor grilled flavor, but with a griddle-style crust. It was the perfect cooking mashup of grill and griddle for my all-American cheeseburger topped with melted American cheese. Since that evening, it is the only way that I grill burgers—of any size! The recipe below is my favorite burger these days. I traded in my aged cheddar cheese for old-fashioned American, which melts better and adds a layer of soft gooeyness on top of the crunchy caramelized crust of the burger. To me, this is the best condiment and I don’t need anything else except maybe pickles, which I layer on the bottom bun so that the cheese and the top bun stick together and become one. Of course, you can add any of your favorite condiments and toppings, but try this minimalist burger at least once. When you use the best quality beef and grill the burgers using the cast-iron sizzle platter, you hardly need anything besides the cheese and a soft potato bun to make it summer’s best burger.
Our take on Southeast Asian inspired dishes, bursting with flavor. A perfect place to bring a date and try one of our boozy bubble teas!
Shangri La 208 7th Ave.
(btw. 7th & 8th avenues)
(212) 807-9872 • shangrilanyc.wix.com/the-lounge
An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West
From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH
RECIPE
GRILLED GRIDDLED CHEESEBURGER Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 6 • • • • • • • • •
Being careful not to overwork the meat, in a large bowl mix together the chuck and sirloin with the Worcestershire sauce, mustard powder, and generous pinches each of salt and pepper. Gently shape the meat into 6 burgers, each about 3/4 inch thick. Brush each patty on all sides with olive oil. Use your thumbs to make an indent at the center of each burger. Heat the grill to medium. Place a flat cast-iron griddle on the grates at the center of the grill.
Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel
Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) (212) 581-1581
1 pound ground beef chuck 1 pound ground beef sirloin 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (optional) 1 teaspoon Coleman’s Mustard powder (optional) Kosher salt and ground black pepper Olive oil 6 slices American cheese 6 potato burger buns Dill pickle chips
DIRECTIONS
The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu Shochu & sake Exceptional value
When the grill and griddle are hot, place the burgers on the griddle and cook, covered, until the meat is no longer pink, 8 to 10 minutes, turning once halfway through grilling time. Top each burger with American cheese about 2 minutes before you remove them from the grill. You want the cheese to be soft but not too melted.
TACOS All day, every day
A huge selection of Tacos, made the traditional way with authentic fillings and flavors such as:
Let the burgers rest 2 to 3 minutes and serve on a potato bun with pickle chips. Recipe by Elizabeth Karmel
CARNITAS BISTEC OREJA LENGUA AND MORE!
Fried Twinkies Are So Old Hat —Try Bourbon-Fried Pound Cake
We also serve torta sandwiches!
Did we mention they start at $3? AP PHOTO/J.M. HIRSCH
By Alison Ladman When we first encountered deep-fried, bourbon-soaked Twinkies, we were a little smitten. Until, that is, we realized we could do so much better. Better as in ditching the highly processed snack cakes and substituting a truly amazing slab of homemade pound cake, all rich and dense and ready to sponge up some booze. Which is what we did next; we drizzled each slice with a generous glug of bourbon. And no need to use the good stuff here. Anything you’d consider using as a mixer will be fine. An ample dose of butter to pan-fry our slices until nicely crisped and warmed doesn’t hurt their flavor, either. Now all you have to do is serve—warm, please!—with fresh berries and whipped cream or ice cream. Take that, Twinkies.
Taqueria Tehuitzingo
695 10th Ave (@ 48th St.) + 578 W. 9th. Ave (Btw 41st & 42nd St)
646-707-3916 + TaqueriaTehutzingo.com Hours Daily 11:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m.
From The Associated Press
RECIPE BUTTER-BROWNED BOURBON-BASTED POUND CAKE Prep & Cooking Time: 2 hours (30 minutes active) Serves: 12 • • • • • • • • • • • •
4 whole eggs, room temperature 2 egg yolks, room temperature 1 tablespoon water 1 cup sugar 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature, plus more for pan frying 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon almond extract 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 1 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (8 ounces) all-purpose flour, sifted 3/4 cup bourbon Berries, to serve Whipped cream, to serve
together the sugar, butter, vanilla, and almond extracts, and the salt until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. While mixing, add the egg mixture, a couple tablespoons at a time, until well emulsified after each addition. The adding of the eggs should take about 5 minutes. Working in 2 batches, fold in the flour gently but thoroughly until no trace of the flour remains. Transfer to the prepared pan and spread to smooth the top. Gently tap the pan on the counter to release any air bubbles. Bake on the oven’s center rack for 55 to 65 minutes, or until golden brown and a toothpick inserted at the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then turn out onto a rack to cool for another 20 minutes. When the cake is mostly cool, slice the ends off, then slice the loaf into 12 generous 1/2-inch-thick slices. Brush both sides of each slice liberally with bourbon.
Heat the oven to 350 F. Mist an 8-inch loaf pan with cooking spray, then line the bottom and up the 2 long sides with kitchen parchment.
In a large skillet, melt a bit of butter over medium-high, swirling to thoroughly coat the bottom of the pan. Working in batches, fry the pound cake 3 to 4 slices at a time, for 3 to 4 minutes per side, or until toasty brown, adding additional butter between batches. Carefully transfer the toasted slices to a platter while you fry the remaining slices. Serve warm, with berries and whipped cream, if desired.
In a small bowl, whisk together the whole eggs, egg yolks, and water.
Leftovers can be cooled and kept in an airtight container for 3 days, gently rewarming in a skillet.
In a large bowl, use an electric mixer on medium-high to beat
Recipe by Alison Ladman
DIRECTIONS
Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.
Pizza Suprema was voted the best. *
AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.
Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939
Awarded One of the 10
BEST PIZZAS IN NYC
Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.
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@EpochTaste
May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
Guadeloupe, a territory of France, is an archipelago in the Lesser Antilles.
A Taste of the Caribbean in
GUADELOUPE ALL PHOTOS BY SUSAN JAMES
By Susan James
M
y first experience with Guadeloupe’s unique blend of culinary influences drawn from France, West Africa, and southern India was at the restaurant of the Auberge de la Vieille Tour Hotel, where a plate of delicately shaved tuna carpaccio, fresh off the boat, and served with lashings of olive oil, salt, and a piquant lemon relish arrived at my table. It was one of those memorable food experiences that you wish you could have everyday. A French archipelago in the Lesser Antilles, Guadeloupe, I was told, is the Queen of Caribbean cuisine. A recent food tour of its culinary hot spots proved that the title is not just hyperbole. The most popular street food in Guadeloupe is a fried sandwich called “bokit,” stuffed with chicken or ham, vegetables, and whatever else the market has to offer. With a tall glass of cold fruit punch, the island population eats lunch on the run. But elsewhere things are more leisurely. On the beach in Capesterre-Belle-Eau at the restaurant Le Rivage, I sampled flavorful okra fritters served with long strands of freshly grated pumpkin, coconut, and green papaya. The okra fritters with their chewy texture and seasoning of chili reminded me of Indian pakoras. Pumpkin is a popular food in West Africa; green papaya comes from Southeast Asia and coconut is a local fruit. There on the plate were all the flavors from faraway that had created island food. A seasoning of salt air from the waves breaking only feet from my table definitely added flavor to the dish. Walking through Guadeloupe’s markets is an experience in itself. Vendors are happy to explain the exotic array of fruit in their stalls— mounds of starfruit, soursop, red currant, cherimoya, and apra. Spice merchants arrange their sacks of
With a tall glass of cold fruit punch, the island population eats lunch on the run.
One of Guadeloupe’s most famous chefs, Ruddy Colmar of Restaurant Au Widdy’s.
condiments like painters laying out the colors of their palettes, and every vendor has his or her own line of fruit-flavored rum with handwritten labels and the kick of an angry mule. At La Case aux Epices Restaurant in Les Saintes, a tiny island group south of BasseTerre Island, spice, as its name suggests, dominates the dishes. A filet of dorado or mahimahi was served perfectly cooked in a cream sauce flavored with fresh ginger, and the coconut pudding was fragrant with the smell of cinnamon. One of Guadeloupe’s most famous chefs, Ruddy Colmar, chef and owner of Restaurant Au Widdy’s in Marina de Saint-François, offered to take me shopping and show me some of the secrets of his kitchen. Our first stop was the fish market at the beach, where fishermen come in with the morning’s catch. The overwhelming variety of fish was bewildering to a nonlocal but Ruddy knew just what would work for our menu. Brilliant turquoise catfish, poisonous lionfish that had to be specially prepared but had a flavorful white flesh, gigantic rock crab, and succulent lobster were soon in the bag. Then we were off to the vegetable market for spring onions—an island staple—fresh tomatoes, yams, bananas, mangoes, passion fruit, sweet chilies, and locally grown vanilla beans. Colmar trained in France and cooked the many ingredients in a simple manner, serving a feast of fusion food drawing from the rich traditions of the island’s culinary heritage. For dessert, he presented the table with his own creation, Chocolat-Phyle, a thin pastry envelope stuffed with a rich volcano of melted chocolate, dusted with powdered sugar and paired with homemade coconut ice cream. It was a feast worthy of the Queen of the Caribbean. Susan James is a freelance writer based in Los Angeles. She has lived in India, the U.K., and Hawaii, and writes about travel, art, and culture.
Okra fritters at Le Rivage in CapesterreBelle-Eau.
Bottles of homemade fruit rum punch.
Spices displayed at the market.
A vendor at the Basse-Terre market.
An array of fruits at the Saint-François market.
Bokit, a fried sandwich and popular street food.
Fresh fish and aromatics, ready to cook.
D11
@EpochTaste
May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com
New Ways to See Philly From Up High and Down Low By Kathy Matheson With classic rowhouse architecture, brick sidewalks, and narrow streets, some charming neighborhoods in Philadelphia can almost make you forget about cheesesteaks, Rocky, and that whole American Revolution thing. Almost. It will be hard to escape the Cradle of Liberty references this summer as the city hosts the Democratic National Convention. But Philly has plenty to offer even the most nonpolitical visitor. Things have been really hoppy, er hoppin’, during the warm months thanks to an influx of beer gardens and revamped civic spaces where you can socialize, people-watch, and Instagram your heart out. New vantage points from up high and at the water’s edge will give you a whole new way to look at The City of Brotherly Love and Sisterly Affection. What’s New What started as an experimental pop-up park on the Delaware River has become so popular it’s back for a third summer season. With food, beer, hammocks, and boardwalk games, Spruce Street Harbor Park has revived a faded area known as Penn’s Landing. The vibrant destination includes a waterfront roller rink and seaport museum complete with historic ships. The city’s other river boasts a scenic recreational trail that recently received an eye-catching extension. The Schuylkill Banks Boardwalk offers postcard views of the skyline from its start at the South Street Bridge. Bikers, joggers, and walkers can take the path up to the Art Museum and beyond. For a bird’s-eye view of both rivers, try the new One Liberty Observation Deck, which occupies the 57th floor of one of the city’s tallest skyscrapers. The space offers 360 degree views, day and night. At street level, it’s hard not to smile at Dilworth Park. Visitors of all ages delight in running—or watching people run—through the in-ground fountains on this renovated plaza outside City Hall. Amenities include a small cafe and occasional programming like live music and outdoor movies. Dilworth Park is also temporarily hosting Robert Indiana’s “LOVE” sculpture, as its regular home undergoes a complete overhaul across the street. Classic Attractions The biggies, of course, are Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell. Timed tickets for the hall where the Declaration of Independence and Constitution were signed are free, but plan ahead. A limited number are released each morning at the Independence Visitors Center, or they can be reserved in advance online ($1.50 fee per ticket). Seeing the Liberty Bell is also free and does not require tickets. However, the line can get long. The back of the bell is visible through the pavilion windows without going inside, but you won’t be able to see the famous crack. The other famous bronze in town—the “ROCKY” statue—was actually a prop from the movie “Rocky III.” Fans usually have to wait in a quick-moving line at the foot of the Art Museum steps to take their pictures with the fictional hometown fighter. Cynics, please note real Philly heavyweight champ Joe Frazier now has his own impressive statue at the sports complex. Need a cheesesteak after all that sightseeing? Pat’s and Geno’s—those dueling South Philly landmarks—are open 24/7. You can also try Reading Terminal Market, Jim’s on South Street, and Tony Luke’s, which is somewhat off the beaten path. Note that many locals prefer roast pork sandwiches with sharp provolone and broccoli raab. Tips A pair of comfortable shoes will get you pretty much anywhere in Philadelphia’s extremely walkable downtown, known as Center City.
The Indego bike share program is popular and convenient, and there’s a good network of bike lanes. The Philly Phlash shuttles visitors around for $2 per ride or $5 for an all-day pass. The Big Bus offers a more expensive tour with narration, and tickets allow you to hop on and off all day. Quirkier options: Take a trolley tour to see some of the 4,000 murals in the city. Or hop on a Segway for a novel way to travel to some hidden neighborhood gems like the Magic Gardens, a breathtaking artistic creation. Public transit in Philly, known as SEPTA, can be convenient, but its arcane payment system frustrates even city residents. Plan ahead by either purchasing tokens or a one-day Independence Pass. Beware, though: Tokens and passes are not sold at every station, and machines don’t accept credit cards. Hanging Out Venture into the buzzing East Passyunk and Fishtown neighborhoods for lively bars, BYOBs, gastropubs, and unpretentious but world-class dining. The coffeehouse culture is strong, too, with many indie storefronts. The phenomenon of beer gardens, which began popping up a couple of years ago, continues unabated. The immensely popular openair spaces range from rooftops and restaurant patios to office building breezeways and reclaimed vacant lots landscaped by the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society. But for the simplest respite, try one of the city’s original green spaces as laid out by founder William Penn. Logan Circle has the beautiful Swann fountain with a gorgeous view of City Hall; Rittenhouse and Washington squares offer green lawns and park benches; and Franklin Square offers family fun with a carousel and miniature golf. Through June 12, Franklin Square hosts a Chinese lantern festival, featuring huge illuminated displays of a dragon, three-story pagoda, and more. From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATT ROURKE, FILE
A visitor photographs a bronze Rocky statue outside the Philadelphia Museum of Art in Philadelphia. AP PHOTO/MATT ROURKE, FILE
ASIAN RESTAURANT LISTINGS UPPER WEST SIDE
Sachi Asian Bistro Thai Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 | sachinyc.com
Raku—It’s Japanese II Japanese Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts
57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE
Ruay Thai Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 | ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN
Cafe Evergreen Chinese 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Thai Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies Thai 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Thai Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 | vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Korean Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 | hellschickennyc.com
Soju Haus Korean 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s Chinese Featured Dish: Uncle Ted’s fried rice with Chinese sausages; braised duck dumpling; crispy duck with chow fun in hoisin sauce
163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Japanese Featured Dishes: Smoked Hamachi / Hamachi Kama; Uni Scrambled Egg with Sturgeon Caviar; Smoked Katsuo Tataki
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Indian Featured Dishes: Mirchi Pakora; Hara Paneer Kofta; Meen Manga Curry 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 | junoonnyc.com
109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri Sri Lankan 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK
Laut Southeast Asian 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
Malaysian Kitchen USA Malaysian Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 malaysiakitchenusa.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Japanese Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 momokawanyc.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Southeast Asian Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues)
WEST VILLAGE
Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
Spice Market Asian Fusion
W i Din n n at er
MIDTOWN EAST
Shochu and Tapas - AYA Japanese 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
QUEENS
Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu.
403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 | spicemarketnewyork.com
Leng Thai Thai 33-09 Broadway | Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com
Niu Noodle House Chinese Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings
Spicy Lanka Sri Lankan 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
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Fill out our 4-minute survey and be entered to win. People rest in hammocks at the Spruce Street Harbor Park. AP PHOTO/MATT SLOCUM, FILE
AP PHOTO/MATT ROURKE, FILE
The Liberty Bell at Independence National Historical Park.
Runners jog along the Schuylkill Banks Boardwalk.
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
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May 13–19, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com VISITBRITAIN VIA AP
The Sandringham estate has served as a royal retreat for generations.
Sandringham Is British Royals’ Much-Loved Country Retreat By James Brooks
Venture Into Thailand’s
Spicy Northeast
at
ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!
• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.
It is unique among royal residences, a country retreat that is the private property of Queen Elizabeth II, a place at once so private and so beguiling that King George V pronounced it, “The place I love better than anywhere in the world.” Today it is the treasured country home of the queen, who loves to spend time there with her extended family, particularly during the Christmas season, when she traditionally greets local people gathered outside a church where senior royals worship on Christmas morning. Located some 110 miles (175 kilometers) north of London, Sandringham has been a private royal home since 1862, sheltering four generations of British monarchs. It’s great for children, too: acres of open grounds, perfect for playing around. And the tall trees, chosen by Elizabeth in the 1960s, provide welcome shade and shield the royals from public view, giving them a luxurious sense of privacy. “Unlike all the other royal residences apart from Balmoral, Sandringham is owned by the queen privately, it’s her own private home,” said Helen Walch, Sandringham Estate’s public enterprises manager. “Unlike say Buckingham Palace and Windsor Castle, which are official residences of the monarch, this is her quiet country retreat.” It was at the nearby St. Mary Magdalene Church that Princess Charlotte, the daughter of Prince William and Kate Middleton, the Duchess of Cambridge, was christened last July. Princess Charlotte celebrated her first birthday recently. Sandringham House, set among 60 acres of gardens, first opened to the public in 1908. Every generation of the royal family that’s lived there is said to have left a mark on the property. “It’s a fantastic garden from the point of view of history,” said Sandringham Estate’s head gardener, Martin Woods, one of seven gardeners who maintain the various lawns, glades, and rose bushes. During the Second World War, many of Sandringham’s gardeners went away to fight. Labor-intensive gardens were dug up and replaced with sweeping lawns. Sandringham Museum, in the former coach houses, is a treasure trove of royalrelated artifacts. Its wide collection includes several former royal automobiles, commemorative china, and gifts given to the queen and her husband Prince Philip, the Duke of Edinburgh. Key vehicles include a 1900 Daimler
Sandringham has been a private royal home since 1862, sheltering four generations of British monarchs.
purchased by King Edward VII, thought to be the first royal car. Other highlights include a converted electric golf buggy used by Queen Elizabeth II’s late mother, also Elizabeth, known as the queen mother. Nicknamed the “racing buggy,” it was first used in the late 1990s to assist her at public appearances when she was in her 90s. It’s painted in the queen mother’s horse racing colors—pale blue and yellow—and even has a black racing cap with gold tassels attached to the roof. Racing colors are worn by jockeys in horse races to indicate who they work for. “This little electric buggy was the ideal way for her to do walkabouts and it was painted in her racing colors, as a joke I think, but it’s very fetching,” said Walch. The museum’s varied collection of gifts includes an intricately carved chess set presented to the queen in 1996 by then South African President Nelson Mandela. “It’s beautifully done and showing tribal chieftains and oxen and all hand-painted,” said Walch. Some aren’t so lavish, such as a handmade wood and string eel trap, presented to the queen by the president of Kiribati during a visit to Windsor in 1986. This year, Sandringham’s house, gardens, and museum are open to the public from late March to late October, except for July 27 when the estate holds the Sandringham Flower Show. IF YOU GO... Sandringham: Royal estate located in Norfolk, England, about 110 miles from London; sandringhamestate.co.uk From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/MATT DUNHAM, POOL, FILE
AP PHOTO, FILE
AP PHOTO, FILE
Prince William and Kate, Duchess of Cambridge, arrive with their children for daughter Princess Charlotte’s christening at St. Mary Magdalene Church in Sandringham on July 5, 2015.
Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.
ESANATION 750 9th Avenue # New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 # esanation.com
Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh, on the grounds of Sandringham on Feb. 4, 1982.
Queen Elizabeth II (L) and the Queen Mother take their dogs out for a stroll during a visit at Sandringham on Nov. 19, 1956.