D1 July 17–23, 2015
Chilled Soups for summer that go down smooth and easy.
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An Obsession
Cast Iron in
By Sharon Zhang | Epoch Times Staff
See Cast Iron on D8
Finding a piece is so exhilarating. Jeffrey Rogers
ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF JEFFREY B. ROGERS 20112015
Vintage or new, healthful or health hazard—among users of cast iron pans, no one can agree.
o obsess or not to obsess? That is the cast iron question. There’s an online network of cast iron lovers posting on Facebook, Reddit, and beyond about their love of their cast irons. If you spend enough time browsing the forums, somehow, slowly, they entice you into their elite group. The largest of the various online communities is the Cast Iron Cooking Facebook group. Cast iron Internet celebrity Jeffrey Rogers even admits to the cultish behavior of the group— and it’s public, so you can observe the collective obsession from the inside. Almost 200,000 people strong, the group description says it’s for “People who enjoy cooking great food in cast iron.” The bulk of the group posts feature delicious looking desserts, breakfast foods, pizzas, and pretty much anything else cooked in cast iron pans. One user posted, “Just can’t fry chicken in anything but CAST IRON LOVE IT,” with an accompanying picture of, you guessed it, a fried chicken in a cast iron pan. Another user posted pictures of fried catfish with the caption “I sure do hate to cook fresh catfish! Lovin every minute of it!” All statements praising cast iron, however self-contradictory, are welcome.
Jeffrey Rogers runs a YouTube channel called the “The Culinary Fanatic,” dedicated to answering any and all cast iron related questions.
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July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Drinks, cocktails, the works
10 Bright, Light Wines
for Summer Soirées By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
ummer is the time to enjoy low-alcohol, bright wines that go well with your outdoor dinner party or barbecue. Brad Haskal is the wine director of Saltaire Oyster Bar and Fish House, set to open in early August in Port Chester, New York, in Westchester County. Located on the banks of the Byram River, the restaurant features light wines that go well with fresh oysters and seafood. “We are looking for great producers of welltended vineyards, and minimal intervention production. We want balanced wines that are very typical of where they are from,” Haskal said. Below are Haskal’s recommendations for white, red, and rosé wines that are perfect for summer but won’t break the bank (with two notable but worthwhile exceptions), listed with their suggested retail prices.
COURTESY OF PAUMANOK
Paumanok Chenin Blanc 2013.
MAGALY
Whites 1. José Pariente Verdejo 2014 (Rueda, Castilla y León, Spain) $21.99 This is a light, crisp, white with a clean, lemony minerality, and a touch of floral elements. Great on its own, or with light- to mediumbodied seafood. Pariente is considered one of the leading producers in Rueda.
COURTESY OF JOSE PARIENTE
2. Paumanok Chenin Blanc 2014 (North Fork, Long Island) $28.00 The 2013 Chenin Blanc is no longer available, but the 2014 wine is just as outstanding. This is a reasonably priced aromatic gem that first seems as though it will be fully sweet. The truth is, this wine, made from grapes discovered completely accidentally by the Massoud family, may be the finest white wine I have tasted from Long Island. Great on its own, and even better with medium bodied fish, and white meat. Slightly off-dry and delicious. 3. Michel Gassier ‘Cercius’ 2013 (Costières de Nîmes, Rhone Valley, France) $14.99 This clean, minerally blend of 70 percent Grenache Blanc and 30 percent Sauvignon Blanc is laser-focused and pure. This is a versatile food wine, from a sub-region in the Rhone Valley of France, that is still relatively obscure.
José Pariente Verdejo 2014.
We are looking for great producers of well-tended vineyards, and minimal intervention production.
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7. Chateau Haut Segottes 2010 (St. Emilion, Bordeaux, France) $38.99 From fourth-generation winegrower Danielle Meunier, on her nine-hectare estate that is planted to 60 percent merlot, 35 percent cabernet franc, and 5 percent cabernet sauvignon. All nine hectares are within St. Emilion Grand Cru vineyards. Neighboring properties include La Dominique and Cheval Blanc. This is classically delicious, multidimensional, balanced, ageable wine that drinks well young and keeps getting better. 8. Valle Dell’Acate Il Frapatto 2013 (Sicily, Italy) $21.99 Talk about a great summer red! Although historically one of the most important estates in Sicily, this winery has used some modern advances, while farming organically over vineyards where blood oranges once grew. This wine, light and aromatic, with wild strawberry flavors, can use a slight chill before drinking. Great with medium-bodied fish, and white meats. Also great with fatty and gamey meats like duck. 9. Reuling Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012 (Sonoma Coast, Sonoma County, California) $70.00 Great pinot noir that carries weight without heaviness. A unique vineyard owned by Jackie and Tim Reuling, and farmed biodynamically by winegrower Matt Taylor. This is wine that made people fall in love with California pinot. Lightto medium-bodied, with intensity and clarity. Not cheap, but worth the splurge. 10. Decíma Mencía 2013 (Ribeira Sacra, Galicia, Spain) $28.99 One of the up and coming regions, Ribeira Sacra is among the very most beautiful rugged regions where wine is produced. José Manuel Rodríguez is the owner and winegrower. This wine shows off the pomegranate and slate flavors the region is known for, but Decíma’s Mencía is brilliant. Think of mencía as a grape a little denser than Burgundy pinot noir.
Brad Haskal, wine director, Saltaire Oyster Bar and Fish House Reuling Vineyard Pinot Noir 2012.
Rosé 5. Hermanos Merino Viña Catajarros Rosado 2014 (Cigales, Castilla-León, Spain) $14.99 A rosado from the Merino brothers in Cigales made from old vine tinto del pais (tempranillo) and a 20 percent mix that includes garnacha, and two white grapes—verdejo and alvillo. The winemaking is very traditional, and until 15 years ago, they still used the classic stone and timber Roman-style press.
6. Lail Vineyards ‘J. Daniel Cuvee’ 2011 (Napa Valley, California) $157.99 Descended from the originators of Inglenook, the Lail family makes this 100 percent cabernet sauvignon in an approachable style, that has enough stuffing to age for decades, while still being drinkable right now. Complex, rich, full-bodied Napa cab in a very classic style. This one is for the big splurge, but the Lails know Napa’s history, and make wine that continues to positively grow the image of Napa.
COURTESY OF REULING VINEYARD
4. Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio 2013 (Campania, Italy) $21.99 Mastroberardino is the winery credited with resuscitating the indigenous grapes of Campania. Made from 100 percent coda di volpe grapes and grown in soil with volcanic ash, the wine has a white peach and mineral stoniness in the flavors. The wine is stored in stainless steel tanks to preserve crispness.
Brad Haskal, wine director of Saltaire Oyster Bar and Fish House, set to open in upstate New York next month.
Reds
Valle Dell’Acate Il Frappato 2013. COURTESY OF VALLE DELL'ACATE
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July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF ANEJO
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
with Chef Angelo Sosa
On His Love for Perfect Simplicity By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff With a Dominican father and an Italian mother, chef Angelo Sosa grew up with a diverse palate. From a young age, his father introduced him to traditional Dominican dishes like bacalao (codfish), pig’s feet, and cow tongue, and put him to work helping in the family garden. Since then, Sosa has received Western culinary training at the Culinary Institute of America, where he was mentored by acclaimed French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Sosa’s knack is for transforming flavors with creative takes on traditional cuisines. At his New York City restaurants, Añejo and Añejo Tribeca, Sosa puts a new spin on Mexican food. He serves the tostada—typically made with pulled pork—with pork belly braised in tamarind soda, a popular Mexican drink. Epoch Times recently caught up with Sosa to ask him three questions about his favorite food experiences past, present, and future.
Hometown: Durham, Connecticut Occupations: Owner and executive chef of Añejo, TV personality, and cookbook author Lives in: East Harlem, New York City Morton’s World Trade Center
Sosa’s first experience with fresh ingredients was helping pull weeds in his dad’s garden in his small hometown in Connecticut.
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
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Epoch Times: What was your most transformative or inspiring food-eating experience? Angelo Sosa: There’s a pizza restaurant in New Haven called Pepe’s Pizza that’s existed since 1925. I go there every year for my birthday. What I love about the pizza is that it’s really about the art of simplicity and the act of perfecting your skill. Not only do they cook their pizza with natural coals, they’re all about letting the pizza take its time and the gluten rising. Their white clam pizza is made with beautiful clams just picked from [Block] Island Sound and the garlic comes from the local farmer’s market. It’s just the essence of simplicity at its best. When I’m having the pizza, it’s a very euphoric and inspiring experience for me, because it’s about not just the craft, but about letting the ingredients highlight themselves. What really gets into my head and blows me away is the art of perfection. These people have been doing this craft since 1925, and they’re constantly every single day, perfecting it. I think that’s very motivating for somebody [like me] who’s a creator. It’s a key lesson. Epoch Times: What is your current food obsession? Mr. Sosa: I’m obsessed with vegetables—I’m obsessed with just how cool they are. I think that where I’m at in life is getting back to my roots, and connecting with nature. Coming from a French background, working with JeanGeorges [Vongerichten] and Alain Ducasse, I think cooking with vegetables epitomizes respecting nature and respecting earth, and complementing the beauty of these vegetables has just been so inspiring for me. Añejo's roasted heirloom baby carrots, with mole vinaigrette, Mexican chocolate,
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red onions, and oregano. Something we do here at the [Añejo Tribeca] restaurant that I’m really proud of is a dish with beautiful heirloom baby carrots. The colors are just magical: they’re purple, yellow, orange. What we do is we sear them with sea salt and cracked pepper; oven-roast them with some farmers market garlic, thyme, and olive oil until they’re just slightly crunchy; and then we make a mole vinaigrette—kind of like a broken chocolate vinaigrette—with shallots, chocolate, pumpkin seeds, and onions. What I love about this dish is that it embodies the earth and the soil.
French and European-Inspired Cuisine Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner
Epoch Times: What would your last meal on Earth be? Mr. Sosa: I’ll probably be in the foothills of Tuscany, with my wife eating Italian pizza. I’m obsessed with pizza. This interview has been edited for clarity and brevity.
Sosa’s Añejo restaurant in Tribeca.
Añejo's roasted heirloom baby carrots, with mole vinaigrette, Mexican chocolate, red onions, and oregano.
A duet of dishes from various regions of France with the best recipes of other well-known regions of Europe. Pastries, desserts and custom cakes. Private room available for up to 50 guests.
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July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town
COURTESY OF BABBALUCCI
Babbalucci Opens in Harlem
Over
50 Authentic
Spanish Tapas Endless combinations of flavors to share, or indulge on your own.
Come in and Pick Your Favorites Tonight!
The good folks at Babbalucci must embrace the Slow Food way of life; babbalucci means snails in Italian. The bread and pizza dough are baked in-house, supplementing a menu that focuses on Italian-American classics. The menu includes such comfort fare as Polpettine (beef, veal, and spinach meatballs), served with polenta and pecorino and pizzas churned out of the wood-burning oven like the Truffle Pâté (mozzarella, gorgonzola, Parmigiana, ricotta, mushroom, and prosciutto), and for brunch (starting in late July) the Nutella pizza or Ricotta and Berries pizza. True to its namesake, snails also figure on the menu. You’ll find Sicilian-style snails and pizza with snails (along with tomato, garlic, parsley, and gorgonzola). The restaurant is a project of Andrew LoPresto, Bobby Fried, Christy Phansond, and Charles LoPresto.
Salame Picante pizza.
SHIKAH JAIN
Babbalucci Italian Kitchen & Wood Burning Oven
331 Lenox Ave. (between W. 126th & W. 127th streets) 646-918-6572 Babbalucci.com
Wood Oven Radicchio with burrata and cherry tomatoes.
COURTESY OF BILL BAKER’S
Bill Baker’s
Meson Sevilla
364 Grand St. (at Marcy Street) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-734-8890 BillBakers.com
Restaurant
344 WEST 46TH ST. (BET 8TH & 9TH AVE.) • MESONSEVILLA.COM • 212-262-5890
Mac and cheese at Bill Baker’s. COURTESY OF BILL BAKER’S
Bill Baker’s in Williamsburg. COURTESY OF BILL BAKER’S
The freshest seafood, every day
O
wner, Jesus Martinez, who comes from the verdant province of Galicia in northwestern Spain, is most insistent on quality, and goes to pick out fish at the market every morning at 2:30 a.m.
• Enjoy fine cuisine from Spain made from authentic ingredients, elevated by exact and careful preparation.
ALCALA
Restaurant
(212) 370-1866 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com
Bill Baker’s Named after one of the owners’ grandfather, a banker and sportsman with a reputation for being forthright, Bill Baker is a new restaurant and bar in Williamsburg that takes a page right out of his occupation and time. An antique banker’s clock and glass teller’s counter complement the marble bar top and brick walls, which date back to 1887. The seasonal American menu takes well to drinks—to the tune of 40-plus small-batch American whiskeys, or to the beer list comprising about 20 (and growing) micro taps and hard-tofind bottles. The menu features dishes such as Cracklin’ Duck Pierogi, Artichoke Agnolotti, and Baker’s Brew Chili Dog. Bill Baker’s team is led by Brooklyn residents Adam Randisi (the namesake’s grandson) and chef Nels Benton.
Kings County Imperial Offers Market-Driven Chinese At the 65-seat Kings County Imperial in Williamsburg, owners Josh Grinker and Tracy Jane Young are channeling their extensive experience traveling throughout China, reinterpreting central Chinese classics. On-site is a garden where tatsoi, Chinese red mustard, goji berry bushes, and fresh Sichuan peppercorns grow. On tap at the bar is handcrafted soy sauce, aged and fermented halfway around the world in southern China. True to tradition, the menu is served family-style. In the Dumplings, Buns & Dim Sum section, you’ll find Wok-Seared Long Dumplings (filled with pork, garlic stems, and red vinegar) and Crispy White Radish Cake (made with rice, daikon radish, lap
chuang sausage, and shrimp, served with oyster sauce). Noodles include dishes with names like Ants Climbing a Tree (stir-fried bean thread noodles with tree ear mushrooms and ground pork) or Clay Pot Silver Noodles (pom pom mushrooms, choi sum, and sliced beef). The Big Wok section features Sichuan Marinated Duck, Market Salt & Pepper Dry Fry, and Cantonese Crispy Garlic Chicken.
Kings County Imperial
20 Skillman Ave. (between Meeker & Lorimer) Williamsburg, Brooklyn 718-610-2000 KingsCountyImperial.com
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July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
stuff to eat and drink around town
LE DINER EN BLANC
SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Last year’s Dîner en Blanc, at Nelson Rockefeller Park in Battery Park City.
A secret dinner location, with 5,000 diners, all dressed in white—Le Dîner en Blanc is poised to return to New York City on July 28. Fifty-five cities around the world are participating in this part spontaneous picnic, and part pop-up, which was launched in France 25 years ago. Despite diners having to lug their own tables, white tablecloths, and white chairs, wait lists have swelled in excess of 30,000 in large cities. Diners have the option of bringing their own dinners—in a picnic basket with fine stemware and dinnerware, mind you—or reserving a catered picnic basket, curated by Todd English. The secret location is announced at the last minute. Last year’s location was Battery Park City. For more information, see NewYork.DinerenBlanc.info SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
COURTESY OF JERK FESTIVAL NEW YORK LLC
JAMAICAN JERK FESTIVAL
COURTESY OF ROOT & BONE
Reggae, Soca, and spicy delicacies await at New York City’s biggest Caribbean food festival. At the Jerk Cook-Off Pavilion, watch competing chefs win cash, bragging rights, and the champion chef title. Celebrities like Miss Universe Jamaica, Kaci Fennell, will create dishes in the Celebrity Quick Fire Challenge. Sunday, July 19, starts at noon. Roy Wilkins Park, Queens. Tickets $40 at the gate, $30 for advance tickets. JerkFestivalNY.com
COURTESY OF THE JERSEY CITY PROJECT: EATS
JERSEY CITY’S PROJECT: EATS Enjoy the warm days of summer with some cool drinks, and delicious eats at Project: Eats, an outdoor street festival in Jersey City. Project: Eats, features more than 30 rotating vendors each day and provides an opportunity to buy goods from local makers like, Pick a BonBon, WORD Books, Another Man’s Treasure, and more. Saturday and Sunday, July 18–19, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. 280 Grove St., City Hall Plaza, downtown Jersey City. TheJerseyCityProject.com/Project-Eats.html
Celebrate fine dining at affordable prices with NYC’s restaurant week. Participating restaurants will offer three-course prix-fixe menus, with a minimum of three choices of appetizers, entrees, and a dessert.
Dishes from Root & Bone.
July 20–Aug. 14. Lunch $25, Dinner $38. NYCGo.com/ Restaurant-Week
COURTESY OF AMORINO
COURTESY OF VOILA CHOCOLAT
BUY ONE, GET ONE FREE AT AMORINO
NYC RESTAURANT WEEK
Gelato lovers, celebrate National Ice Cream Day with Amorino’s special offer. Buy one and get one free. Share your pictures on any social media platform with the hashtag #TasteAmorino. The flavor of the season, by the way, is lime-basil. Sunday, July 19, 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Amorino, 162 Eighth Ave. (at 18th Street) or 60 University Place (at 10th Street). Amorino.com
FROM BEAN TO TRUFFLES
Compiled by Daksha Devnani/Epoch Times Staff
Make your own chocolate truffles at Raaka’s factory. Guests will be taken on a tour of the factory and learn all about the chocolate manufacturing process, from the theobroma cacao tree onward. You can decorate and package 16 truffles to take home. Co-hosted with Voilà Chocolat.
Customers making truffles.
Thursday, July 23, 7 p.m. 64 Seabring St., Red Hook, Brooklyn. Tickets: $75. Voila-Chocolat.com
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July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
The Soups of Summer These beauties, adorned in the color palette of the season, go down smooth and easy By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff COURTESY OF NETA
We’re not talking about simmering hot soups to make you break a sweat. Or even about your classic gazpacho or vichyssoise. Chilled soups, in their myriad colors of yellow green or purple or pink or orange, deliver on flavor with sublime textures.
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE
RECIPE DIRECTIONS
at el Pote
CHILLED CORN SOUP
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria
For a departure from gazpacho, chef Sungchul “Sung” Shim of Neta decided to go with corn. “It has just a few ingredients but has big bold flavors.” he said. The special touches lie in the garnishes. At Neta, he uses cod fritters, chive oil, and edible flowers. “But if you’re making this soup at home, you can garnish it with anything you like. Shrimp, crab, lobster, chives, sour cream, or crème fraîche, cilantro, fried shallots, would all be good garnishes,” he said.
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque
Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS
Juicy Lamb Chops
• • • •
10 ears of corn 3 tablespoons butter Water (volume varies with pan) Salt & pepper to taste
Shuck and remove corn kernels, then rinse. In a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter and add corn to sweat (about 5–10 minutes, until the kernels are tender). Remove a handful of kernels from the pan and reserve for a garnish. Once liquid from the corn has appeared at the bottom of the pan, add enough water to just cover the corn. Season with salt and pepper. Cook the corn in the pan on medium heat for 20 minutes. Blend the cooked corn in an electric blender, strain, and serve. Note: For a thicker corn soup, do not strain the mixture after blending. For a thinner soup, add more water to the blender. Recipe courtesy of executive chef Sungchul “Sung” Shim, Neta, West Village
RECIPE 718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
SALTIBARSCIAL: LITHUANIAN BEET SOUP
DIRECTIONS
A nutritious soup made of beets and Greek yogurt; this soup is a healthy take on the traditional saltibarscial. Most versions of this soup get a touch of acidity from the addition of pickles.
Next, grate your beets into the same bowl, and then add crumbled pieces of hard-boiled egg.
Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS
Classic Margherita Pizza
• 2 medium sized beets, boiled and cooked (try to retain as much of the beet juice as you can) • 2 medium-size gherkin pickles, grated • 2 Persian cucumbers, grated • 2 eggs, hard-boiled, slices • 1 cup Greek yogurt • 2 cups buttermilk • 1 handful fresh dill, finely chopped • 1 handful fresh chives, finely chopped • 6 stalks spring onions, finely chopped • Juice of 1/2 lemon • Salt and pepper to taste
Start making your beet soup by grating both your cucumbers and pickles into your bowl.
Pour in your Greek yogurt and buttermilk into the bowl, and mix all your ingredients well. The yogurt should begin to take on the purple hue of the beets. Add your dill, chives, and spring onions. While gradually pouring in your lemon juice, mix all the ingredients in your saltibarscial well. Place in the fridge for at least 20 minutes to cool down, although the flavors will meld nicely if you let it cool longer. When serving, sprinkle an extra bit of fresh dill, and enjoy! Recipe adapted from “My Food Odyssey” by June Molloy Vladick Recipe courtesy of Arousing Appetites
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Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza “the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...” ZAGAT USER
Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza
“The wood fired oven along with the homemade cheese just can’t be beat. ” PM
“Love it. Thin crust, very good choice of topping. Unbeatable Beer pitcher price.” CB
PIZZA LOVE Cut fresh herbs onto your amazing wood fired oven pizza. Made in just 5–7 minutes.
800 6th Ave (btwn 27th & 28th St) (212) 213-5042
WaldysPizza.com
Greek yogurt & beets make this soup as pretty as it is healthy.
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July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com • • • • • • •
RECIPE MORELLO CHERRY GAZPACHO Cherries—both sweet and sour—make their way into this elegant soup by chef Christian Pratsch at Asiate.
Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS • • • • •
1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced 1/2 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced 1 English cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced 2 Large Heirloom Tomatoes; Diced 1 clove garlic, sliced
1/2 pound sweet cherries, pitted 1/2 pound sour cherries, pitted 4 ounces white bread 2 ounces sherry vinegar 5 ounces olive oil Fleur de sel White pepper
DIRECTIONS Cut the bread into 1-inch cubes and transfer to a bowl. Add the garlic, red and yellow bell peppers, cucumber, tomatoes, cherries, vinegar and the olive oil. Season lightly with salt and pepper and let stand at room temperature for 2 hours. Working in batches, puree the cherry mixture in a blender until smooth. Strain the gazpacho through a fine sieve. Season with salt and pepper. Recipe courtesy of executive chef Christian Pratsch, Asiate, Mandarin Oriental, Upper West Side
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Sweet and sour cherries both find their way into this soup.
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RECIPE
RECIPE
CHILLED TOMATO SOUP WITH GUACAMOLE
• Freshly ground white pepper
If you have a craving for chips with salsa and guacamole, this soup from chef François Payard might just provide a healthier though flavorpacked alternative.
DIRECTIONS
Makes: 20 small glasses
INGREDIENTS For the Soup • 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil • 1/2 medium Spanish onion, chopped • 1 celery stalk, chopped • 1/2 fennel bulb • 1 red bell pepper, seeds and ribs removed, chopped • 4 garlic cloves, chopped • 1 bouquet garni (1 thyme sprig, 1 rosemary sprig, 2 parsley sprigs, and 3 basil sprigs, all tied together with kitchen twine) • 8 large, very ripe beefsteak tomatoes, cut into 8 pieces each • Fine sea salt • Freshly ground white pepper • 4 drops Tabasco sauce • 1/4 teaspoon celery salt For the Guacamole • 1/2 ripe avocado, coarsely chopped • Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lime • 1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion • 1/2 jalapeùo pepper, seeds and ribs removed, finely chopped • 1/4 red bell pepper, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped • 1 cilantro sprig, chopped • Fine sea salt
LATE SUMMER RASPBERRYNECTARINE GAZPACHO
For the Garnish • 20 basil leaves
Sweet and savory meet in this raspberry-nectarine gazpacho. Bell peppers, cucumbers, and tomatoes, also go into the mix.
Heat the olive oil in a stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, celery, fennel, bell pepper, and garlic. Cook for 10 minutes, until very soft. Do not let the vegetables brown. Add the bouquet garni, tomatoes, and 2 1/2 cups water. Bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes, or until the tomatoes have softened. Season with salt and pepper.
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Serves: 8 to 10
INGREDIENTS • • • •
While the soup is cooking, fill a large pot with very cold water and ice cubes to make an ice water bath. When the soup is ready, place the stockpot in the ice water bath to cool. Remove the bouquet garni. When the soup has cooled, transfer it to a blender and purĂŠe until smooth. Pass the purĂŠe through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl. Add the Tabasco sauce and celery salt, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set the soup aside.
• • • • • • •
Place the avocado in a small bowl and mash it with a fork until smooth. Stir in the lime zest and juice, red onion, jalapeĂąo, bell pepper, and cilantro, and season with salt and pepper. Ladle the chilled soup into 20 small glasses or bowls. Place a spoonful of the guacamole in the center of each one, and garnish with a basil leaf. Arrange on a platter, and serve cold.
• • • • • • •
4 cups red raspberries 6 nectarines, peeled and diced 1 bunch scallions, thinly sliced 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced small 1 orange bell pepper, seeded and diced small 1 long English cucumber, diced small 2 ripe tomatoes, finely diced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar 6 cups V-8 Splash juice (or any fruity juice blend) 6 cups tomato juice 1 cup fresh bread crumbs 1/2 bunch fresh cilantro, chopped 1/2 teaspoon green Tabasco sauce Pulp from 1 passion fruit (optional) Juice of 2 fresh limes Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
FOR MORE THAN 18 YEARS, East Village Pizza & Kebab has been serving the best Italian pizza, fine Italian dishes, remarkable kebabs and falafels in the East Village.
We make 40 different kind of pizza pies, you have to try them all!
145 First Avenue (Corner of east 9th street) New York, NY 10003 DINE IN OR TAKE OUT, WE MAKE IT EASY FOR YOU TO ORDER. Order online at: www.EastVillagePizza.net or call us at 212-529-4545. Delivery is Fast & Free.
DIRECTIONS
Recipe courtesy of chef François Payard, François Payard Bakery and FP Patisserie, NYC COURTESY OF FRANCOIS PAYARD
In a very large and deep bowl, combine the raspberries, nectarines, scallions, yellow and orange peppers, cucumber, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, vinegar V-8 Splash, passion fruit if using, tomato juice, bread crumbs, lime juice, cilantro, Tabasco sauce, salt and pepper, and stir well. Pour 1 quart of the soup into a blender. PurĂŠe until the texture is mostly smooth, but a few chunks remain. Return to the bowl and refrigerate for at least 3 to 4 hours before serving. For a dramatic presentation, ladle the soup into chilled large red wine goblets. Top with fresh raspberries and a slice or two of freshly cut nectarine. Recipe courtesy of chef Marjorie Druker, New England Soup Factory and The Modern Rotisserie
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D8
@EpochTaste
July 17–23, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF JEFFREY B. ROGERS 20112015
An Obsession
Cast in Iron Cast Iron continued from D1
Since the 1990s, Rogers has amassed more than 150 cast iron pieces. COURTESY OF JEFFREY B. ROGERS 20112015
Restoring rusty, old cast iron into usable form is a popular cast iron fanatic pastime.
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Finding a New Love Rogers has been with the Cast Iron Cooking group since it was only 6,000 members strong, and has watched how it has grown and expanded to other subgroups. He also runs his own YouTube channel called the “The Culinary Fanatic,” dedicated to answering any and all cast iron related questions. His views recently topped 1.5 million. The “Fanatic” himself has been cooking with cast iron since the 1990s, when he started his collection with a measly two pieces. Now, his whopping collection is over 150 cast irons. I don’t imagine one just wakes up Christmas morning with 148 cast iron pieces under the tree; it turns out collecting is really about the chase. “Finding a piece is so exhilarating,” Rogers raved. The exhilaration is also inspired by the online community. For example, as a new collector, you might go to a vintage store and spot a newto-you cast iron piece. The piece would be photographed and the photo posted on the website even before you reached the checkout, during which time community members would dote on your piece. Slowly, with enough love and dedication, your collection would grow. One user posted pictures of eight finds, captioned, “How I spent my summer vacation. …” Some fanatics (or should I say “panatics”) will go to vintage stores every weekend to find cast iron pieces; others, like this user, spend long periods of time searching or even make road trips just to experience the excitement of a new find. A find can be as affecting as love at first sight. Rogers reported that sometimes, you “see a piece of cast iron from across the room.” You lock eyes, or in this case, eyes and handle, and you can already picture the rest of your life with this piece. And you could truly spend the rest of your life with a piece, and even hand it down to your children. Cast irons are known for their longevity, being usable for over 100 years in some cases. The lifespan is one of the most agreed upon reasons for using cast iron. Do a little research,
and you won’t discover many more universally lauded benefits. Some say that the nutritional iron one can glean from cooking in cast iron is good for you; others warn against it. Some say that cast iron heats evenly; others insist that it doesn’t. Vintage Versus Modern So, as with any gathering of people, Cast Iron Cooking has its drama over some of these polarized topics. The most common root of controversy in the group is a familiar one: vintage versus modern. Many cast iron pan addicts say that vintage cast irons are better in quality than modern ones because most older pans were machine polished; today’s cast iron tends to be rougher and unpolished. A representative from Lodge, one of the two American cast iron manufacturers, said that Lodge stopped making the polished cast iron pans because they simply weren’t selling well. “I look at that as an instance of people thinking that everything was better in the past,” he said. “Vintage versus modern is an argument that lasts a lifetime,” affirmed Rogers. Over the years accruing his 150+ pans, Rogers has evolved into a bit of a cast iron pacifist. One of the coveted vintage brands is a company called Griswold that went out of business in the 1950s—Rogers used to be a self-purported “Griswold snob.” Today, Rogers is firm in his stance that “vintage cast iron is not better than modern cast iron. It’s different, but it’s not better.” The preference of vintage over modern and vice versa just depends on your cooking style. Such differences of opinion are minor, and generally speaking the community is positive and supportive of each other. Recently, Rogers’s family had some difficulties and a friend sent a cast iron gift in response. He posted a photo of the cast iron in the group, and the group immediately jumped to action, sending him gifts and hopeful messages. “We had so many Edible Arrangements. I said, if someone sends me one more of these things, I’m gonna vomit,” he joked. Of all of his communities, he told me, the Cast Iron group had been the most supportive in his time of need.
Cast Iron Meets Fish Fry Chef Adam Sappington from The Country Cat in Portland, Oregon, has been using cast irons since he was 5 years old. His cooking style was largely shaped by the use of cast irons. In his upcoming cookbook, “Heartlandia: Heritage Recipes from Portland’s The Country Cat,” he offers many recipes for fans of cast iron, such as this fish fry. COURTESY OF HOUGHTON MIFFLIN HARCOURT
RECIPE HEARTLANDIA FISH FRY The first key to success for a good fried fish is to invite friends and family who aren’t shy about having fun and eating a ton. If you haven’t spent the day fishing, go buy a nice fresh white fish like halibut, cod, catfish, rockfish, or trout from a good fish market or grocery store. Then have the fish fry when the weather is nice so you can do your frying outside, and serve the crispy fish with a buffet of fresh salads, slaw, and plenty of homemade tartar sauce for dipping. –AS
INGREDIENTS • 6 medium fillets fresh white fish (about 1 1/2 pounds), such as rockfish, halved and pin bones removed • 1 1/4 cups low-fat buttermilk • 1 cup all-purpose flour • 1 cup finely ground cornmeal • 1 tablespoon group celery seed • 1 tablespoon ground fennel seed • 1 tablespoon garlic powder • 1 tablespoon lemon powder • 2 teaspoons onion powder • 2 teaspoons kosher salt • 2 teaspoons freshly ground black powder • 2 cups lard or vegetable oil, for frying • Tartar sauce, for serving
DIRECTIONS In a large bowl, combine the fish with the buttermilk and, using your hand or a rubber spatula, move the fish around so the fillets are submerged. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let the fish soak in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper. In a large bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, celery seed, fennel seed, garlic powder, lemon pepper, onion powder, salt, and black pepper and whisk to combine. Working with one piece at a time, remove the fish from the buttermilk, allowing any excess buttermilk to drip back into the bowl. Place the fillet in the seasoned flour, shake the bowl to cover the fish, and press down firmly to coat. Shake the fillet to remove any excess flour and place it on the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining fillets. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels. In a large cast-iron skillet set over medium heat, warm the lard until it reaches 325°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Working in batches, fry the fillets, turning with a fresh fork halfway white and cooked through in the center, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer the fish to the paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining fillets, then transfer the fried fish to a platter and serve up with tarter sauce alongside. Recipe from “Heartlandia: Heritage Recipes from Portland’s The Country Cat” by Adam and Jackie Sappington (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, available Sept. 1, TheCountryCat.net/Heartlandia-Cookbook)
D9 July 17–23, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org
thai
the modern
Dan Ford, founder of Blue Current Brewery, with a bottle of sake at the brewery in Kittery, Maine.
ALL PHOTOS BY ROBERT F. BUKATY/AP
Drinks, cocktails, the works
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Craft Sake Is the Latest Trend That’s Brewing in the United States
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Those who love the beverage say further success in the United States will require eduKITTERY, Maine—First came boutique winercating consumers. They’re also trying to win ies. Then microbreweries and craft distillerover those who may have had a bad experiies. Now Japanese sake aficionados are hopence with cheap sake, asking them to give it ing to transform the so-called rice wine into another try. ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, the next artisan alcohol-of-the-moment in “My favorite phase is, ‘Wow, I didn’t know plus a few unique V{iv} style twists the United States. sake could be like this.’ I’ve heard that many Dan Ford, whose Maine-made sake is just times, and I have only 110 million to go,’â€? NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! hitting the market, has bet his retirement savsaid Greg Lorenz, head brewer at SakeOne, 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ings that consumers will be sold on his prea brewery that produces about 80,000 cases mium sake once they give it a try. a year in Forest Grove, Oregon. ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, “We see it as a market that’s untapped,â€? Restaurateurs, meanwhile, are getting more 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun serious about proper pairings. said Ford, who developed a taste for sake AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, while working in Japan, then later returned “Wine sommeliers are getting a taste and Bar & Restaurant great place for a date or a fun night there to learn from a sensei, or teacher, before realizing where it can fit. It’ll never overtake launching Blue Current Brewery, one of about the wine world, but people are starting to a dozen craft producers operating—or respect it and realizing that it has its HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* gearing up to—in North America. place. It has a great fit in the jigsaw MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,* puzzle of beer and wine. There Sake has been around for centuSake is brewed ries in Japan, but consumption has is a lot of room for growth,â€? with yeast— dropped in recent years. Meansaid Tim Sullivan, founder of like beer—and 鍔銗文人墨厢的 while, it’s ticking upward in North urbansake.com. topnotch varieties America, benefiting from the overAs the story goes, sake camečŠŠćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ ) are best served all popularity of Japanese foods— to the United States when chilled. from ramen and soba to sushi and American soldiers stationed in ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ yakitori—as well as riding the trend Japan after World War II returned of consumers seeking far-flung flahome with a taste for it, prompting Jap-瞎味佳餚(三樓) vors and artisanal products. anese sake makers to open the first U.S. brewPremium ginjo sake is nothing like the eries in Hawaii and California. Blake Richardrough-tasting stu sometimes served warm son’s moto-i in Minneapolis is credited with at low-end sushi shops, craft brewers said. launching the microbrew trend with the first Top-notch sake—best served chilled—has a sake brewpub in the United States in 2008. clean flavor profile that can be full-bodied and Richardson, whose sister company is now robust or light and fruity, sometimes with a milling rice for several sake producers, including Blue Current, believes sake will subtle hint of licorice. “Its depth and subtlety are tops, but the grow as consumers become educated and feel range of flavors that can come from rice, koji, less intimidated by the Japanese characters water, and yeast are amazing to many. It just on bottles. tastes darn good,â€? said John Gauntner, a sake “We need education to get the terminology expert from Ohio who has written books on correct so they can walk up and say, ‘I’d like the beverage and has taught sake production a junmai nama genshu,’â€? he said. That transin the United States and Japan. lates to sake made from rice that’s unpasteurThough it’s often called rice wine, sake actuized and undiluted. Totally different and distinctive cuisines ally is brewed like beer. The rice is milled to For Ford, he’s overcome some big hurdles and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors. to make it this far. remove the husk, then a type of mold called koji is sprinkled into the steamed rice to He received help from the University of break starches down into sugars, a process Maine and used a Kickstarter campaign to that takes place in a room where the temperraise money to get his rice shipped from Minature tops 100 degrees. nesota. Now he has an agreement with a distributor to sell his sake at $25 for 750-milliliter The rice and koji are fermented with water and yeast in casks for about 30 days before (25-ounce) bottles or $15 for 350-milliliter being pressed, leaving a yellow-hued liquid (11.8-ounce) bottles. that looks like huangjiu, the Chinese word for “It’s going to be slow in the beginning. We “yellow wine,â€? Ford said. When it is bottled, it hope by this time next year that we’ll be talklooks like white wine. Unlike wine, though, ing crazy growth in our category,â€? he said. sake generally is consumed fresh and isn’t From The Associated Press aged for long periods.
v{iv}
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A batch of milled rice is inspected at Blue Current Brewery.
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
D10 July 17–23, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org Drinks, cocktails, the works
Cocktails With a Spice Kick
The Doctor Bombay cocktail, featuring curry bitters and mango rum.
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UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
THAI
INDIAN
KOREAN
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
VIETNAMESE
SRI LANKAN
ASIAN FUSION
Once upon a time, Indian spices were more prized than gold, as they were grown only on the Indian subcontinent and getting them to Europe meant traversing vast lands and deep seas. Experiencing these exotic flavors was worth the long journey. Indian spices like cinnamon and garam masala have now made their way into cocktails this summer—bringing with them a boost of health benefits.
MALAYSIAN
Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Featured Dishes: Yuzu Hamachi; Rock Shrimp Tempura; SenYa Omakase 109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com
Tim Cooper, a veteran mixologist at Sweetwater Social in Greenwich Village, uses bitters made from curry leaves to spice this refreshing cocktail. The curry bitters lengthen the profile of the drink and play well with the lime juice and mango-infused rum.
INGREDIENTS
INGREDIENTS
• 2 ounces Rhum Clement S. Barrel Infused with Mango • 0.75 ounce lime juice • 0.5 ounce ginger syrup • 0.5 ounce honey syrup • 12 drops curry bitters • 2 dashes Peychaud Bitters • Club soda • Lime slices (for garnish) • Ginger candy (for garnish)
• 2 ounces Knob Creek Kentucky Bourbon • 0.5 ounce Garam Masala Spiced Maple Syrup • 2 dashes Bitter End Moroccan Bitter • Orange rind (for garnish)
Combine all ingredients and garnish with lime or ginger candy. Recipe from Sweetwater Social, New York
Recipe from JW Marriott, Los Angeles
DIRECTIONS
WALL STREET KICK
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
DIRECTIONS Combine all ingredients in a mixing glass. Add ice and stir thoroughly. Strain over fresh ice into a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a tailored geometric orange twist.
BATTERY PARK
Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
Taking chai-inspired ingredients to the next level, this cocktail from JW Marriott in Los Angeles offers a unique twist to the classic Old Fashioned, with its main ingredient—garam masala infused maple syrup—boasting bold flavors and health benefits. Garam masala literally means “heat spice” and its blend of spices, including coriander, black pepper, cumin, cardamom, and cinnamon, adds heat and complex flavors to this bourbon-based cocktail.
An ingredient most widely used in Indian cooking, curry leaves are found in vegetable curries, green sauces (chutneys), and more. A great source of iron, curry leaves are also known to aid digestion and weight loss.
RECIPE
BROOKLYN
THE SPICE MARKET OLD FASHIONED
Garam masala is believed to help in weight loss and slow the aging process. The maple syrup, added to balance the aromatic seasoning, is a fantastic substitute for refined sugar, offering sweetness along with properties that are good for the body, such as antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. It also has its own unique flavor notes that add depth to the drink.
Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
RECIPE
The Wall Street Kick at Carnem Prime Steakhouse in Brooklyn gets its name and kick from cinnamon and espresso. Cinnamon is one of the classic spices in Indian cuisine that is used not only to boost energy and relieve stress, but also to remedy colds, coughs, and chills. Cinnamon is widely used in both sweet and savory Indian dishes, and here blends well with heavy cream and cacao spirits to make a decadent treat.
INGREDIENTS • • • •
1 ounce espresso 1 ounce heavy cream 0.75 ounce cinnamon syrup 0.75 ounce Solbeso Cacao Distilled Spirit • 1.5 ounces coffee bean-infused Blue Nectar Silver Tequila • Espresso beans (for garnish) • Orange rind (for garnish)
Cinnamon syrup and coffee-infused tequila can be stored and used in your cocktails all summer long.
add ice into glass and shake again. Strain mixture into a coupe and garnish with espresso beans and orange rind (optional). To Make the Cinnamon Syrup: Combine 17 ounces Simple syrup (1 part water, 1 part brown sugar) with 13 cinnamon sticks (cracked). Add cinnamon to simple syrup and bring it to boil, reduce to low temperature, and cook for 10 more minutes. Let it cool, strain out cinnamon sticks and store in a cool place. To Infuse the Blue Nectar Tequila: Add 1 ounce of coffee beans (cracked) to 25 ounces of Blue Nectar Silver Tequila. Place the tequila and coffee mixture into a nonreactive container and let it infuse at room temperature for 24 hours.
DIRECTIONS
Strain out the coffee beans using a coffee filter or a cheesecloth and store in a cool place.
Combine all ingredients together and dry-shake in a shaker with no ice, then
Recipe from Carnem Prime Steakhouse, Brooklyn
COURTESY OF SWEETWATER SOCIAL
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D11 July 17–23, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
The Next Seasoning Condiment on the Horizon Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00
Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class
W
hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course
(service for two or more) eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
Gomasio By J.M. Hirsch It’s impossible to say this without sounding stupid (or as though I’m practicing Klingon), but gomasio is going to be the next za’atar. Seriously. During the past few years, America’s top chefs have been on a serious search for far-flung seasoning blends. Which is why za’atar (which seemingly can be spelled a dozen or more ways) has become a darling of the restaurant scene. The Middle Eastern blend of sesame seeds, sumac, and what-have-you is regularly sprinkled on all manner of dips, grilled meats, and roasted vegetables. Ditto for ras el hanout (also a victim of numerous spellings), a North African blend of all sorts of delicious things, including cumin, allspice, cinnamon and paprika, among many (many!) other choices. And now gomasio is starting to show up on menus. And while it, too, can be spelled a variety of ways, its ingredient list is blissfully simple. And that makes it an easy choice for making at home. Gomasio is a Japanese dry seasoning blend made from lightly ground
It lends a savory, lightly crunchy, delicately salty flavor to whatever you sprinkle it over.
Gomasio is a Japanese dry condiment made from lightly ground sesame seeds and salt. Some variations also include toasted seaweed.
sesame seeds and salt. Some variations—in my mind, the better ones—also include toasted seaweed. I first learned to make gomasio back in my (long ago) macrobiotic days. The mostly vegan macrobiotic diet favors gomasio over plain salt as a seasoning for grains and vegetables. It lends a savory, lightly crunchy, delicately salty flavor to whatever you sprinkle it over. It’s great on seafood, vegetables, grains, grilled meats, hummus, buttered or oil-drizzled bread, or even bread smeared with peanut or cashew butter. You can buy gomasio (usually sold in small jars in the Asian or natural foods aisle), but it is much better and cheaper to make it yourself. And it’s easy to do. Traditionally gomasio is made using a suribachi, a Japanese-style mortar and pestle. The interior of a suribachi has sharp ridges, which make it excellent for grinding nuts and seeds. But a food processor works just as well.
$45/per person
Awabi Shabu-shabu
tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person
Sake and Wine
Ask about our sake tastings.
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
LUNCH SPECIAL STARTS FROM
$7
From The Associated Press Gomasio sprinkled over eggplant.
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Gomasio sprinkled over bok choy and mushrooms. Katsu & Sake
RECIPE
Signature dishes you won’t find in other Japanese restaurants
GOMASIO Prep & Cooking Time: 10 minutes Makes: 1 cup
INGREDIENTS
• 1 cup hulled sesame seeds • 1/4 cup dried wakame seaweed (sold in the Asian aisle) • 1 teaspoon kosher salt
DIRECTIONS In a small skillet over low heat, toast the sesame seeds, stirring constantly, until lightly golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the sesame seeds to a food processor. Return the skillet to the heat and add the seaweed. Toast the seaweed, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the seaweed and the salt to the processor. Pulse the processor on and off for about 30 seconds. The mixture should be mostly, but not entirely ground. There should still be some whole sesame seeds. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and let cool. Cover and store at room temperature for several weeks.
NUTRITION INFORMATION PER TABLESPOON 35 calories; 25 calories from fat (71 percent of total calories); 3 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 150 mg sodium; 1 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 0 g sugar; 1 g protein.
Discover the Hidden Gem in K-Town The most special dish, reserved for special occasions across Japan. Try this amazing Pork Katsu at HanaMichi. Our unique preparation not only highlights pork, but also chicken, beef and vegetables! A dish worth gathering for!
Pork Katsu
“This is one of my favorite spots in K-town” – Zagat-
28 W 32nd Street, New York, NY 10001
212.736.5393 24 Hours Open www.hanamichinyc.com
Tonkatsu Ramen
D12 July 17–23, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
RECIPE CHAWANMUSHI, STEAMED EGG
Then add bonito flakes and turn off the heat. Wait 10 minutes until bonito flakes have settled and strain. Let it cool and then chill. Set aside a 1/2 cup of dashi broth to make the topping sauce.
Preparation Time: 1 hour Cooking Time: 10 minutes Serves: 4 This recipe requires a steamer to complete the chawanmushi base.
INGREDIENTS
• 1 piece kombu seaweed, about 4 inches wide and 4 inches long • 4 cups water • 2 ounces bonito flakes • 5 eggs • 1 teaspoon soy sauce • 1 teaspoon mirin • 1 teaspoon salt • 4 ginkgo nuts, boiled • 4 pieces sea urchin • 4 shrimp, boiled
Chawanmushi: Even the Pickiest Eater Says ‘Yes’ By CiCi Li Steamed egg—it’s a dish I couldn’t be more familiar with. My mother has been cooking it for me ever since I was a toddler. Not only is steamed egg simply delicious, it was one of the few dishes I approved of as a child. In fact my mother says I was such a picky eater that if there had been an award for it I would have won it hands down. Whenever my mother would feed me I just shook my head and disproved of most of what was presented to me. However, there were also a few exceptions—and steamed egg was one dish I approve of. (Whew, it’s tough being a mom, no wonder there is a song dedicated to mothers for Mother’s Day.) I recently overheard that chef Takashi Yamamoto of Sushi Zen in Midtown West cooks the best chawanmushi steamed egg, so I asked him to teach me his recipe, and he agreed. Yamamoto is in his mid-30s and has been cooking Japanese cuisine for over 16 years. While he may be a little camera shy he is absolutely confident and in his element working in a kitchen. In Japanese, “chawan” means tea cup and “mushi” means steamed. It can also be translated to steamed
Topping Sauce: • 1/2 cup dashi broth • 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce • 1/2 teaspoon mirin • 1/2 teaspoon of kuzu arrowroot
DIRECTIONS To make the dashi broth: In a medium stock pot, add water and kombu seaweed and bring to a boil.
egg or steamed egg custard. The dish consists of an egg mixture flavored with soy sauce, dashi, and mirin. For Yamamoto’s recipe, the preparation time takes longer than the actual cooking time. “Every step is crucial,” he said. He also told me that in order to make smooth chawanmushi, you must chill the In Japanese, dashi broth, strain the egg mixture, and turn the ‘chawan’ means heat to low after the first minute of steaming. tea cup and I tasted his chawanmushi recipe. It’s differ‘mushi’ means ent than the one my mother likes to cook. His steamed. is very smooth, delicate, and with no remaining air in it. The topping sauce adds an extra shiny gloss to it. Yamamoto makes the dish an art. I must say “yes” to this recipe! Well … so is it better than my mother’s cooking? I can’t exactly say that, because she might be reading this right now. Happy cooking and eating, everyone! CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradise” on NTD Television. She’s also a food columnist and chef in training. Join her on her adventure and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise” at CiCiLi.tv
To make the chawanmushi base: Beat the eggs, pour the mixed eggs into the chilled dashi broth, and combine well. Add soy sauce, mirin, and salt into the mixture and strain. Add a piece of ginkgo nut and a shrimp into each of the four bowls. Then scoop the chawanmushi base into each bowl. Place the bowls into your steamer and steam for 1 minute on a high heat, and then another 9 minutes over low heat. To make the topping sauce: In a small saucepan, add the dashi broth, soy sauce, mirin, salt, and kuzu arrowfoot, and bring to a boil until you get a syrup consistency. Lastly, add 1 tablespoon of the topping sauce on top of the chawanmushi and garnish with sea urchin. Recipe adapted from the original recipe by chef Takashi Yamamoto
Chef Takashi Yamamoto of Sushi Zen (L) and CiCi Li make chawanmushi.
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