D1 July 24–30, 2015
The Lobster Roll is still king in Maine.
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Sticky, Sweet, Glorious
ICECREAM Ah, nothing like the feeling of ice cream running down your arms in 90-degree Manhattan.
We roamed our fair city to find the best ice creams and frozen treats— think Italian ices, raspados, cholados, kulfis, and halo-halos.
By Daksha Devnani, Annie Wu, & Sharon Zhang | Epoch Times Staff
There’s probably a good reason why July is Ice Cream Month— anytime you walk out of your apartment or office, you probably can’t think of anything else except how to cool down.
Eat it fast if you like the crunchy texture, or savor the creamy sweetness with a chewier end.
Fortunately, in New York City, icy desserts are as diverse as the arrival records on Ellis Island. We found 17 amazing options for you to savor (presented in no particular order).
1 VAN LEEUWEN 48 E. Seventh St. (between First & Second avenues), East Village. VanLeeuwenIceCream.com
Plant-dotted wallpaper and wood furnishings make the honeycomb ice cream at Van Leeuwen fit right into the store, but the flavor stands out from the crowd. The honeycomb itself presents a mild, sweet honey flavor with a creamy finish, mixed with bits of handmade crunchy honey toffee. The longer the ice cream sits, the softer the toffee bits get, so eat it fast if you like the crunchy texture, or savor the creamy sweetness with a chewier end. $5.75 for a single scoop.
See the complete list on D2 and D3
ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
The Morticia ice cream sandwich at Melt Bakery, with crackly chocolate cookies and peppermint ice cream.
A scoop of salted pretzel caramel ice cream at Morgenstern’s.
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Rainbow Italian ice from the Lemon Ice King of Corona.
Pilin’ on the scoops at Davey’s in the East Village.
Sticky Sweet Glorious They’re not twins. They’re just best friends sharing a favorite treat.
ICE CREAM 5 CHINATOWN ICE CREAM FACTORY
Chinatown Ice Cream Factory has been churning out ice creams made with Asian flavors for 30 years. Among the many different flavors are Durian, Pandan (Malaysian leaf), Taro, Green Tea, and Red Bean. Our favorite is the black sesame ice cream. The sesame seeds are hard to ignore, providing a crunchiness to the subtle flavor of the ice cream, and the flavor lingers in your mouth a long time. A small cup is $4.45.
65 Bayard St., Chinatown. ChinatownIceCreamFactory.com
2 DAVEY’S 137 First Ave. (between St. Marks Place & East Ninth Street), East Village. DaveysIceCream.com
3 ODDFELLOWS Flagship shop: 175 Kent Ave., Brooklyn. Manhattan outpost: 75 E. Fourth St. (between the Bowery & Second Avenue), East Village. OddFellowsNYC.com
4 LA NEWYORKINA Cart 1, High Line (between 17th & 18th streets), Chelsea. More locations online: LaNewyorkina.com
It’s a hot summer day and you’re wandering around looking for your iced coffee fix—skip the Starbucks and get the strong coffee ice cream at Davey’s. The word strong is no joke as the ice cream tastes like real mildly sweetened iced coffee, the strength of the coffee bean and all. And don’t worry about skipping the kick of caffeine, because the ice cream is caffeinated. It’s ice cream magic. $4.50 for a single scoop.
Saying Extra Virgin Olive Oil Ice Cream is a mouthful, but it’s how you’ll want to eat it once you do—by the mouthful. The flavor comes in two parts. At first, it’s incredibly creamy, with hints of olive oil making a cameo just as the ice cream melts back into your throat. When you’re in the last half of your (first) scoop and your palate has eased into the milkiness, the olive oil starts to shine. Soon after that point, the air tastes like olive oil. We recommend you get it with the waffle cone, which is just sweet enough to bring out the savory the flavor. $4 for a single scoop.
Mexican-inspired popsicles may sound foreign but even if only for bucket-list type reasons, the MangoChile Popsicle from La Newyorkina is a must-try. If anything, the Popsicle is edible proof that opposites attract. A bite of spice comes after an initial intense mango flavor, rounding out bold flavors all around. Depending on your spice tolerance, the spice builds up until it’s almost, or is, too much. You seem to forget the kick, though, when you go for another lick just for that sweet spiciness. It comes $3.50–$4, depending on the flavor.
6 LUCA & BOSCO
Providing a creative touch to simple flavors, such as Milk Chocolate with Cinnamon, Luca & Bosco offers some fun combinations like goat cheese ice cream, Drunk & Salty Caramel, and rosemary olive oil. We particularly loved the Honey Lavender ice cream. It’s almost as if you’re eating a flower topped with a spoonful of honey. The floral lavender is assertive for the first five spoonfuls or so, then gives way to honey, so your palate doesn’t get bored with just one flavor. It comes in a $3.75 single scoop and $5.75 double scoop.
120 Essex St. (near the northern entrance to the Essex Street Market, between Rivington & Delancey streets), Lower East Side. LucaAndBosco.com
7 MELT BAKERY 132 Orchard St. (between Rivington & Delancey streets), Lower East Side. Other locations at the High Line and Washington Square Park. MeltBakery.com
8 MORGENSTERN’S FINEST ICE CREAM 2 Rivington St. (between the Bowery & Chrystie Street), Lower East Side. MorgensternsNYC.com
Melt Bakery’s ice cream sandwich features seasonal flavors and locally sourced ingredients. Get the Morticia, made with malted chocolate rum ice cream in cracked chocolate chip cookies. The cracks of the chocolate chip cookies are filled with sugar. Even if you keep it out for 10 minutes, it still won’t melt. Other flavors include the Classic (chocolate chip walnut cookies with vanilla ice cream) and the Lovelet (red velvet with cream cheese ice cream). A regular size ice cream sandwich is $5.
For an adventurous experience, we headed over to Morgenstern’s. Some of its flavors are hard to imagine in ice cream form—spicy Szechuan Peppercorn chocolate or Banana Curry—which appeals all the more to our curiosity. Our favorite is the salted pretzel caramel: first, you taste the crunchy bits of pretzels. Soon after, you experience the bittersweet flavor of caramel, which balances well with the saltiness. There are three sizes to choose from—$4.50 for one dip, $6.50 for two dips, $8.50 for three dips (cup or cone).
IT IS OUR DELIGHT TO SERVE YOU SIMPLE, ELEGANT, BEAUTIFUL, JAPANESE MASTERWORKS TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN
108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707
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Channaly Philipp contributed to this report.
9 SUNDAES AND CONES 95 E. 10 St. (between Third & Fourth avenues), East Village. SundaesCones.com
10 DF MAVENS 37 St. Marks Place (at Second Avenue), East Village. DFMavens.com
11 AMORINO 60 University Place (at East 10th Street), Greenwich Village. 162 Eighth Ave. (at 18th Street), Chelsea. Amorino.com
12 LEMON ICE KING OF CORONA 52-02 108th St., Corona, Queens. TheLemonIceKingOfCorona.com
13 EL BOHIO GROCERY 98-17 39th Ave., Corona, Queens.
14 LAS AMERICAS BAKERY 4030 82nd St., Jackson Heights, Queens.
15 RED RIBBON BAKESHOP 65-02 Roosevelt Ave., Woodside, Queens. RedRibbonBakeShop.us
16 AL NAIMAT 3703 74th St., Jackson Heights, Queens.
17 SKY CAFE 8620 Whitney Ave., Elmhurst, Queens.
We roamed all over downtown for iced treats. Our hands and faces were wonderfully sticky. Black sesame ice cream at Chinatown Ice Cream Factory.
Imagine a glass of orange Thai iced tea in frozen form sitting on top of a sprinkled waffle cone. That’s just one of the many Asian-inspired ice cream creations at Sundaes and Cones. Among other flavors you’ll find durian, taro, and red bean. The flavors come $4.20 for 1 scoop, $6.10 for 2 scoops, $7.40 for 3 scoops. Lactose intolerant? Never fear. The DF in DF Mavens stands for dairy-free. Here the ice creams are made with a soymilk base, coconut milk base, or almond milk base—though you’d never know. We happily sprung for the New Orleans Salted Praline flavor, for a satisfying sweet savory combo. A single cone is $6.56.
Criss-crossing the city, we found kids of all ages enjoying icy treats.
One of the appeals of this gelato spot is the roseshaped ice cream, and as many different ice cream flavors as there are petals on a rose. That said, we fell hard for the season’s flavor limebasil, like a refreshing drink of mojito (without the booze). A single cone runs $5.50.
It’s called the king for a reason. Opened by Nicola Benfaremo in 1944, the ice stand is now an Italian ice mecca, and considered the gold standard of that classic American treat. The Lemon Ice King serves more than 30 different flavors, but its namesake remains a standout. Spritzy and with just the right amount of sweetness, the Lemon ice is so melt-in-your-mouth good that it’ll be gone before you know it. The Coconut is equally refreshing, while the Rainbow (cherry, lemon, and blue raspberry) recalls the red, white, and blue popsicle from childhood visits to the ice cream truck—only less saccharine, which is a good thing. And just $1.50.
Under the rumbling No. 7 train, in the front window of a small, unassuming grocery store, a middle-aged gentleman can be found swiftly scrapping a big block of ice and scooping the fine granules into cups, then pouring in generous amounts of syrup from multicolored glass bottles. This is raspado, a slushy-type dessert popular in Mexico, the Dominican Republic, and other Latin American countries. A fellow patron tells me raspado draws long lines down the block on summer weekends, and for good reason: the sweet liquid mixed with fluffy ice is a cool, refreshing reprieve from the heat—like a nice summer breeze. Varying sizes, from $1.50 for a small cup up to $5 for a giant one.
Cholado is an intensely sweet Colombian dessert that’s part fruit salad, part slushy. The version at Las Americas has mangoes, bananas, pineapple, honeydew melon, cantaloupe, and strawberries, mixed with crushed ice, condensed milk, strawberry syrup, and shredded coconut, and topped with a maraschino cherry. Each sip of the liquid brings up a different taste of the fruit concoction. Whether it’s the fresh mango, sweet banana and condensed milk, or tart strawberry syrup, it’s bound to be delicious. One size fits all at $5.
Lime-basil and lemon sorbets from Amorino.
Halo halo, a Filipino dessert, from Red Ribbon Bakeshop.
PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE. Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu
Like cholado, the Filipino dessert halo halo is a hodge-podge of many things, all delightful on their own, but even better when eaten together: a scoop of ice cream, fruits, a slice of leche flan, shaved ice, sugar-coated beans, jellies, condensed milk, and fruit syrups. At this Filipino bakery chain, they serve halo-halo with a dense mango ice cream that pairs perfectly with chunks of mango fruit (from the Philippines, which are sweeter than the varieties from the Northern Hemisphere) and bits of purple yam called “ube.” Eating this is like a treasure hunt: with each scoop, the different flavor and texture combinations will surprise you. And the price is $4.99. This Indian pastry shop makes its own “kulfi,” the Indian version of ice cream that is made from slowly simmering milk until it caramelizes. The resulting product is nuttier and creamier than Western-style ice cream, with a chewy texture. At first, the consistency feels strange and unfamiliar, but soon, the hints of cardamom and sweet milk will win you over, and you’ll be reconsidering going back to the usual kind of ice cream. Al Naimat sells popsicles in malai (milk), mango, and pistachio flavors. And it’s just $2 a pop. “Es teller” is the Indonesian take on shaved ice. Filled with jackfruit, young coconut meat, avocado, basil seeds, nipa palm (palm tree) fruits, nata de coco, condensed milk, and fruit syrup, the drink is a taste of the tropics. It’s no wonder es teler is considered the national drink of Indonesia. If the first few sips are too sweet for your palate, wait until the shaved ice melts and waters down the syrup. And the price is $3.80.
Morton’s World Trade Center
Midtown 551 Fifth Avenue 212-972-3315
World Trade Center 136 Washington Street 212-608-0171
Great Neck 777 Northern Boulevard 516-498-2950
Hackensack One Riverside Square 201-487-1303
White Plains 9 Maple Avenue 914-683-6101
mortons.com
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com GREG POWERS
BANGKOK
STREET FARE
Heaven for Food Lovers Yaowarat is one of Bangkok’s oldest neighborhoods, founded by East Asian traders in Siam over 200 years ago. It is a heaven for food lovers, blending the centuries old Thai and East Asian influences in an eclectic mix of street vendor cuisine. Experience the authentic taste of Bangkok street fare, at Sookk.
Try Our Affordable Daily Lunch Specials.
Bring Sookk to you! Catering and delivery available.
SOOKK
2686 Broadway (Broadway & 103rd St.) New York, NY 10025 (212) 870-0253
stuff to eat and drink around town
CHEFS & CHAMPAGNE TO HONOR CARLA HALL ON JULY 25 More than 40 renowned chefs will come together at the annual James Beard Foundation fundraiser Chefs & Champagne on July 25 to honor chef and cookbook author Carla Hall. Hall co-hosts ABC’s awardwinning series “The Chew.” She is the owner of Carla Petite Cookies and the author of “Carla’s Comfort Food: Favorite Dishes from Around the World” and “Cooking with Love: Comfort Food That Hugs You.” She has a New York City restaurant in the works, Carla Hall’s Southern
Kitchen, which will showcase her culinary approach, a blend of her classic French training and Southern upbringing. Participating chefs include Franklin Becker (The Little Beet Table), Amanda Cohen (Dirt Candy), George Mendes (Aldea, Lupulo), and Todd Mitgang (Crave Fishbar, South Edison). The East End event will be held at Wölffer Estate Vineyard and supports the foundation’s many initiatives, from culinary student scholarships to an annual food conference on sustainability.
TASTE THE WORLD: BOTANICAL BREW FEST Inspired by the 1939 and 1964 World’s Fair, where visitors sampled cuisine from around the world, the Botanical Brew Fest will bring dozens of craft beers and local favorites to visitors at the Queens Botanical Garden. Featuring ethnically diverse food and live music, and held rain or shine. Saturday, July 25, 12 p.m.–7 p.m. Queens Botanical Garden. Tickets: $35. QBGBrewFest.Eventbrite.com
Miyazaki Super Prime Wagyu Beef $120.00
COURTESY OF SPOON UNIVERSITY
Authentic Japanese food served with a touch of class
W
hen you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each single ingredient and each tiny detail ensures the most authentic experience. Momakawa—A genuine taste of Japan!
Carla Hall. Saturday, July 25, 6 p.m. Wölffer Estate Vineyard, 183 Sagg Rd., Sagaponack, NY 11962. General admission $200 for James Beard Foundation members, $275 for nonmembers. VIP admission $375 includes early access and admission to VIP after-party. For tickets and more information, contact the James Beard Foundation at 212-627-2308 or visit Jamesbeard.org/ChefsAndChampagne
THE CATSKILLS COME TO QUEENS Enjoy the best of the Catskill Mountains—grassfed beef, Heritage pork, cheeses, chocolate, beer, wine, and much more—closer to home, in Queens. More than 20 chefs from the Catskills and the greater New York City area, including Hugue Dufour of M. Wells Steakhouse in Long Island City and Tyson Ho of Arrogant Swine, Bushwick, will present dishes using Catskills produce. Barbecue lovers should not miss the Town Hall’s garden barbecue area, featuring at least one spit-roasted whole animal. Saturday, Aug. 1, 6 p.m.–9 p.m. Flushing Town Hall, 137-35 Northern Blvd., Queens. Tickets: $95. CatskillsComesToQueens.EventBrite.com
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course
COURTESY OF KARL MISCHLER
(service for two or more)
eti er kin s of ashimi hoi e of ukiyaki or ha u ha u aut meals ooke at the ta le essert
$45/per person
Awabi Shabu-shabu
tra itional a anese a eti ers kin s of ashimi rille ish an a simmere ish essert $60/per person
Sake and Wine
Momokawa serves some of the finest quality sake and wine, paired especially for the dishes. Try our seasonal sake (draft), premium sake, all season sake (hot or cold) as well as
COURTESY OF SPOON UNIVERSITY
Brainfood Conference 2014.
Ask about our sake tastings.
white or red wines.
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 momokawanyc.com — ALSO AVAIL ABLE: DAILY LUNCH SPECIALS (12 P.M.-4 P.M.) —
SPOON UNIVERSITY’S BRAINFOOD 2015 CONFERENCE Saturday, July 25, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Villain, 50 N. Third St., Brooklyn. Tickets: $40. SpoonUniversity.com /BrainFood-2015
Join Spoon University’s second annual Brainfood Conference, which will cover topics ranging from food and technology, to sustainability and food sourcing, to new food startups, and more. Your ticket includes breakfast, lunch, and snacks, along with access to a full day of panels, food demonstrations, and networking sessions with some of the culinary world’s best food minds. Chef Michael Cirino will host a live food experience.
COURTESY OF FOOD TRUCK DERBY
The freshest seafood, every day wner, Jesus Martinez, who comes from the O verdant province of Galicia in northwestern Spain, is most insistent on quality, and goes to pick out fish at the market every morning at 2:30 a.m.
• Enjoy fine cuisine from Spain made from authentic ingredients, elevated by exact and careful preparation.
ALCALA
Restaurant
(212) 370-1866 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com
THE GREAT FOOD TRUCK DERBY Enjoy an evening of mobile eats at the Great Food Truck Derby on the East End. Each ticket includes one serving from every food truck, including Eat Me Drink Me, Whole Le Crepe, Hampton Coffee Co., and many more. Beer, wine, and nonalcoholic drinks will be available at this family friendly event to benefit Hayground School, which provides culinary arts training for local children.
Friday, Aug. 14, 4 p.m.–7 p.m. Bridgehampton. Tickets: $75. EdibleEastEnd.com/ Event/The-GreatFood-TruckDerby-2015
NORTH FORK CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL Craft beer fanatics won’t want to miss the North Fork Craft beer festival, featuring more than 50 world class craft brewers, meet-and-greets with brewmasters, and free seminars on all things beerrelated. Featured breweries will include Brewing Blue Point, Samuel Adams, Lithology Brewing Co. and more. Trucks will serve up food to pair well with the craft beers at the event. Saturday, Aug. 8, 2 p.m.–5.30 p.m. Calverton Links Golf Course. Tickets: $50. NorthForkCraftBeerFestival.com
FLORAL FLAVORS: MASTERS OF SOCIAL GASTRONOMY AT BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN Fascinated by the tradition of floral foods and their history? Join the Masters of Social Gastronomy as they explain the science behind dishes—the unique flavors of dishes like medieval custard with jasmine, American apple pie perfumed with rosewater, and more. Tuesday, July 28, 6.30 p.m.–9 p.m. Brooklyn Botanic Garden, 990 Washington Ave. Tickets: $15. BrooklynBrainery.com
Compiled by Daksha Devnani/Epoch Times Staff
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF RIZZOLI
Openings around town
Bistro 914
COURTESY OF BARRET BEYER
Bistro 914, in the Dunwoodie section of Yonkers, is a project of lifelong native Gene Ciriello and Dennis Gladwell. The decoration will showcase the history of Yonkers. Chef Barret Beyer, who appeared on the TV series “Hell’s Kitchen” (season 11) is creating the small plates on the menu. Dishes include Vodka Flamed Shrimp Bruschetta, Espresso Rubbed Hanger Steak, and Bistro Frites (tossed with bacon and Parmesan cheese and drizzled with truffle oil with a side of sriracha salt). Cocktails, crafted by Ciriello, round out the menu. Bistro 914 will be open by the end of July.
Bistro 914
Deviled Egg With Avocado Yolk, Crispy Prosciutto.
837-D Midland Ave. Yonkers, N.Y. 914-327-3333 Facebook.com/Bistro914
Angel of Harlem
COURTESY OF ANGEL
Anahi Angelone, owner of Corner Social, has opened another spot in Harlem named Angel. The bar and restaurant offers Latin American and Caribbean cuisine. Executive chef Banks White helms the kitchen at both Angel and Corner Social. The preview menu features dishes such as White Grape and Almond Gazpacho with sofrito, crispy capers, and Spanish olives; and Oysters on the Half Shell with chipotle mango cocktail sauce and black pepper mignonette. Besides craft beers on draft and a wine list, Angel also offers cocktails such as its signature What Happens in Harlem … made with Hennessy, sorrel, simple syrup, and club soda with muddled mint and lime.
Cheese or Cheesecake?
Angel
2272 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (at 122nd Street) 212-316-0350 AngelOfHarlemNYC.com
Angel’s signature cocktail What Happens in Harlem.
This trompe l’oeuil, artfully executed by Miami Beach’s Barton G. The Restaurant, may look like a cheese board. But it’s actually a collection of cheesecakes with crisp biscotti cookies. And that blue cheese? It’s cheesecake made with a combination of blueberry jam and blue food coloring.
WE KNOW KOREAN FOOD
“AUTHENTIC TASTE, FRESHER LOOK, TRUSTED BRAND”
GOCHUJANG BROWN RICE RED PEPPER PASTE This red pepper paste is made with healthy brown rice, carefully selected red peppers, and sea salt for that unique savory, spicy flavor you love. It pairs well with any meal and is so easy to cook with!
SEASONED SEAWEED SNACK WITH OLIVE OIL Chung Jung One Seasoned Seaweed Snacks are roasted to perfection with olive oil to give you that savory flavor you crave! It’s the perfect treat to enjoy any time.
HONGCHO GOCHUJANG KOREAN CHILI SAUCE This unique chili sauce gives your favorite foods a savory, spicy flavor with a hint of sweetness. Add this delicious spice flavor to chicken wings, BBQ sauce, your favorite dips or marinades or simply use it as a hot sauce condiment. Satiate your need for spice!
HongCho is a fruity, tangy, refreshing multipurpose drink mix concentrate that has all the health benefits of pomegranate / blueberry / blackberry and vinegar in one refreshing bottle.
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MICHEL EULER
Automatically Organic: Paris Self-Serve Shops a Nod to Farms By Maggy Donaldson
At the Au Bout du Champ stores the small spaces are stacked with metal lockers containing just-picked strawberries, hours-old eggs, and neat bunches of carrots or spring onions, depending on the season.
PARIS—Diners in Paris are flashing back—and forward—to the era of the automat, but this time with a nod to organic farming. A precursor to the era of fast food, automat eateries served hundreds of thousands of customers a day throughout the mid-20th century, allowing on-the-go diners to pick hot dishes from coin-operated metal lockers. Today, entrepreneurs in France and Scotland
Lockers allow passers-by to pick up local produce from morning to night.
DRINK TO YOUR
HEALTH (HAS A NEW MEANING!)
Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pomegranate Soju
Made with Red Vinegar, a popular health drink in many Asian countries.
SOJU HAUS offers traditional, healthy (no msg!) Korean food, and an ambiance that inspires good company and great conversations. While traditional cocktails often deplete the
Sizzling Bulgogi
body of nutrients, SOJU HAUS mindfully pairs food and drink for a more balanced effect on your body.
Coconut Soju
What to Try Tonight... Mild Seafood Stew with Nurungji
Pairs well with Cucumber Soju
212-213-2177 315 5th Ave. 2nd Fl, NY NY
SOJUHAUS.COM
Bossam (Braised Pork Belly)
Try it with the Lemon Soju Seafood Pancake
Amazing with Unfiltered Rice Wine
Sunday – Wednesday 5:00 pm – 2:00 am Thursday 5:00 pm – 3:00 am Friday – Saturday 5:00 pm – 4:00 am
are appropriating the concept that once symbolized modernity to help customers get back to the land. Their automats offer not burgers and fries, but fresh and local produce and other ingredients. Joseph Petit employs no staff at his two Paris stores. Both called Au Bout du Champ— “at the end of the field”—the small spaces are stacked with metal cubbies containing justpicked strawberries, hours-old eggs, and neat bunches of carrots or spring onions, depending on the season. Customers simply choose the box that contains the food they want to buy, and then pay at a console, which then opens the appropriate door. It’s a system, Petit said, that brings fresh food to urban areas where few other options exist, while also supporting local, small-scale agriculture. “We have some of the best farmers in the world,” the 31-year old Parisian said outside one of his two shops. “But unfortunately, we consume many of our products from abroad. They aren’t necessarily the best, they aren’t necessarily fresh, and we don’t really know who cultivated them.” Petit maintains direct relationships with the half-dozen or so producers he buys from; the suppliers vary according to the season. The farmers cultivate a variety of vegetables, fruits, mushrooms, and herbs, in addition to eggs and juice. All of them work within about 60 miles of Paris, and Petit and his colleagues go to collect the fresh harvest every day for delivery. To the north, Peter Grewar is embracing a similar strategy. A third-generation farmer, he developed a similar concept after people driving by his 1,300-acre potato farm in Perthshire, Scotland, would stop and ask if they could buy directly from him. His metal boxes come from Germany, logical considering the first automat opened in Berlin in 1897. His colleague down the road originally imported the boxes to keep his eggs fresh. The two began selling their products from the boxes, soon bringing in neighboring farmers who offered products, including broccoli, cauliflower, and berries. The only rule? “It has to be Scottish produce and it has to be seasonal,” Grewar said. For Grewar, the model allows him to build closer relationships with his customers and better gauge product demand. That useful connection, he said, is “really powerful, and it may well lead our business down a different path. We’re already producing 5 to 6 acres of different vegetables we didn’t think we’d be growing even six months ago. One or two of them may take off.” So far, he said, the boxes are turning a profit. They’ve now installed sets in four locations, including one in a shopping center in Dundee. The farm is now dedicating about six acres to crops it plans to sell in the boxes. Back in Paris, Petit said he maintains competitive prices by employing no staff, instead relying on customers to operate the automats themselves. He said it also allows him to keep his shops open seven days a week from 8 a.m. until 10 p.m., a novelty in a city where commerce generally closes down before sunset. “We’re trying to adapt to the new lifestyle of people—who might get up early, might stay up late—but don’t necessarily have the time to go to the market,” Petit said. “We need this to stay accessible to everybody.” Petit opened his first store in the northwest Paris suburb Levallois in July 2013, unveiling the second in the city’s Clichy neighborhood one year later. The stores each serve approximately 100 customers a day, and perhaps double on weekends, Petit estimates. Marine Clappier, 28, counts among them, frequenting the store since she moved to the neighborhood nearly a year ago. She said it’s certainly not a one-stop shop, but she likes the convenience factor. “The advantage for me is I always pass by,” she said. “If I’m missing something in my fridge, instead of buying a pizza or a burger, I prefer to come by and buy something to make a soup.” Clappier said she especially appreciates that the store stocks only what’s seasonal and fresh, which remains one of Petit’s core goals. “You have to get people again used to the fact that we don’t have salad from October until April, and that’s normal,” he said. Petit said he makes deliveries every day to ensure flavor. “They rediscover taste,” he said of his patrons. “Our strawberries are picked in the morning and put in the locker in the afternoon, so people find the strawberries the same way the farmer gave them to us.” Though ecological principles ground his business, Petit said he wants to avoid taking on a heavy activist role. He fears that would alienate people who enjoy access to fresh groceries, but don’t have time for or interest in the politics surrounding the food industry. By the end of this year Petit hopes to open two or three more stores in Paris, and add an additional five in 2016. “It’s a model that really makes sense to me,” he said. “It’s honest.” From The Associated Press
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
The Luscious Cuisine of Northern Spain
thai
the modern experience
By Manos Angelakis When referring to Northern Spain, gastronomes always reach for superlatives. I consider it to be the best place to travel, eat, and drink in the world. And this comes from someone who has spent many years traveling in search of culinary excellence. In Northern Spain along the Pyrenees, the strip between Barcelona in the east and San Sebastian on the coast of the Atlantic has a very high concentration of Michelin starred restaurants. The city of San Sebastian has more Michelin-star restaurants per capita than any other city in the world (excepting Kyoto, Japan). The names are world-famous, including such luminaries as Juan Mari and Elena Arzak at Arzak Restaurant; Eneko Atxa at Azurmendi; Pedro Subijana at Akelarre; Carme Ruscalleda a Sant Pau; the eponymous MartĂn Berasategui in Lasarte-Oria; Quique Dacosta at the Denia beach resort; and the three Roca brothers at El Celler de Can Roca. All have been given the Michelin 3-star rating, the be-all and end-all of any chef’s ambitions. The city of Barcelona has more than 20 Michelin starred restaurants, having recently added Ferran Adrià ’s Japanese venture Pakta. El Celler de Can Roca—considered the best restaurant in the world—is located in Girona, about an hour North of Barcelona. Can Fabes, close to the city, delivers some of the finest classic Spanish dishes in the country. But you don’t have to go to a Michelin-starred place to have exceptional food in Northern Spain. Go “tapearâ€? (pub crawl) and you will find that most “tascasâ€? (tapas bars) have a number of mouth-watering regional dishes. Actually, in this part of the world, if a restaurant or bar doesn’t have superior food—at least three or four exceptional items—it will not survive. Examples of great tapas in Catalonia are montaditos, also called pintxos or pinchos in the Basque region. These tapas of cooked and uncooked food on slices of baguette are all pensive. deliciously inexAt Cèntrio, an
informal gastro-bar, we had a Catalan Bellini made with Cava accompanied by charcoal grilled octopus slices and roasted potato dipped in garlicky mustard vinaigrette. At practically every bar, wedges of tortilla EspaĂąola—the classic potato and egg frittata— are always to be found. In Bilbao, fried shrimp coated with black sesame is another enjoyable specialty to accompany your glass of Fino. Cooked snails at a bar in PorrerĂ in Tarragona are as delectable as they are in France, even though the cooking method is a bit dierent. And let’s not forget the charcuterie platters— garlicky, spicy chorizo; creamy, fatty, and nutty “jamĂłn IbĂŠrico de bellotaâ€? from Iberico pigs fed only acorns; “lomo de cerdo,â€? a cured and air dried pork tenderloin; and, of course, the illustrious pâtĂŠs—a mixture of cooked ground pork with additions like vegetables, trues, or nuts. There are also the ubiquitous cheese platters sporting a number of dierent regional cheeses and dried fruits, nuts, and cubes of “membrilloâ€? (quince paste). In the better restaurants, you might be served such rare delicacies as pickled fruit chunks with lobster, or poached monk-fish tail with spherized sea essence, or star-crab with two kinds of caviar—black and red—and poached vanilla pod! The most important tip for tourists is to never reserve at restaurants earlier than 9:30 p.m. In most Spanish cities, dinner starts at about 10 p.m. and goes to after midnight or even later. As the saying goes, “When in Rome, do as the Romans do.â€? For gastronomes, life is great in Northern Spain. So ‌ why are you waiting? Manos Angelakis is a well-known wine and food critic based in the New York City area. He is a certified Tuscan wine master and an expert on Greek, Chilean, and Catalan wines. He judges numerous wine competitions each year and is the senior food and wine writer for LuxuryWeb magazine, LuxuryWeb.com
‘Tapear’ is a Spanish word for going from bar to bar eating tapas!
MANOS ANGELAKIS
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鍔銗文人墨厢的 čŠŠćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ )
瞎
ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)
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Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty 1
2 MANOS ANGELAKIS
MANOS ANGELAKIS
South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.
3
4 DIANAARTUROVNA/ISTOCK
5 1. The three Roca brothers, (L–R) Josep, Joan, and Jordi, at their restaurant El Celler de Can Roca, which was crowned the world’s best restaurant on June 1.
2. Grilled shrimp coated with black sesame seeds.
4. Star crab with vanilla and two kinds of caviar.
3. Creamy and nutty “jamĂłn IbĂŠrico de bellota,â€? made from pigs fed only acorns.
5. A view of the San Sebastian harbor.
212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MAINE OFFICE OF TOURISM
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718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
In Portland’s burgeoning food scene, the humble lobster roll evokes fond memories of childhood By Chris Mallinos It takes all of five minutes for me to encounter “the debate.” Walking down Congress Street in the heart of Portland, Maine, I run into a group of five men. They‘re smartly dressed—each one in a well-fitted blazer and dress shirt—standing outside a local bank. I may have just arrived in the city, but I can already tell from their accents that they’re local. Under the warm summer sun, the men begin to discuss what they’d like to eat. The talk naturally turns to lobster rolls, the beloved New England sandwich that borders on regional obsession here. One suggests a popular diner down the street. Almost aghast, his friend turns to him and declares, “no way, they use mayonnaise.” It’s a sign of things to come. I’ve traveled to Portland in search of the city’s best lobster roll. The sandwich’s reputation precedes it here, and I soon see why. From highend restaurants to roadside shacks, lobster rolls are plentiful. Portland may have once been named “America’s Foodiest Small Town” by Bon Appetit magazine, but in these parts, the humble lobster roll is still king. That’s where the agreement ends. The debate over how to make a lobster roll is almost as old as the sandwich itself. It can get pretty intense. Do you use butter or mayonnaise? Should the lobster be served cold, or hot? What kind of bun is best? The debate is so fierce that one local bakery keeps its buns hidden behind the counter, available only by special order. The truth is, there are no bad lobster rolls in Maine. Some are very good, others are great. The one constant is the succulent lobster meat, often caught that morning. My very first roll includes ingredients favored by trendier eateries. In this case, cucumber, mint, and jalapeño. It’s delightful. Light and fresh, the jalapeño gives it a nice kick. But for lobster roll purists, it borders on blasphemous. Determined to understand the appeal, I head to the experts. Maine Foodie Tours offers locals and tourists guided tours of the city’s vibrant food scene, and the opportunity to sample some of its culinary delights. Its Lunchtime Lobster Crawl is sure to point me in the right direction. My guide is Christopher Papagni, a man who knows food. As the former executive vice president of the International Culinary Center in New York, Papagni has worked with such culinary heavyweights as Julia Child and Anthony Bourdain. Our first stop is the Harbor Fish Market, right on the water’s edge. Fishermen have been selling their catches here for more than 100 years. The building itself is pretty dilapidated—it certainly looks its age—but inside is where lobster rolls are born. The chalkboard on the wall displays the ever-changing market price of lobster per pound, determined by the day’s catch. Standing outside the market, among rows of old lobster traps, Papagni explains the lengths that Maine goes to in order to keep its lobster stock sustainable. There are heavy fines for har-
Lobster boats in Portland, Maine.
Instead of being known for corruption, we’re known for sustainability. You can eat it guilt-free. It’s so smart. Christopher Papagni, tour guide, Maine Foodie Tours
The Portland Lobster Company sells nearly 500 rolls a day in summer.
vesting a female lobster if her eggs are showing, and for young lobsters that haven’t had a chance to reproduce yet. “Instead of being known for corruption, we’re known for sustainability,” Papagni said. “You can eat it guilt-free. It’s so smart.” It’s no wonder. Last year alone, the state’s fishermen hauled in a whopping $457 million worth of lobster, an all-time high. In Maine, the little red crustacean is big business. But economics aside, there’s something else at play here. Ask Portlanders about their lobster roll of choice, and while they may all tell you something different, they all share an unmistakable pride in the sandwich. It’s like asking parents which child is their favorite. It’s not until I stop by the Portland Lobster Company that I truly begin to understand the lobster roll. Located right in the city’s working port, The Portland Lobster Company is a local favorite. In fact, earlier this year, its roll was voted best in the city by a local newspaper. In the summer, they’ll serve nearly 500 lobster rolls a day. With a giant waterfront seating area and live music, it’s easy to see why this place is so popular. It’s late afternoon when I arrive, and a cool, earthy ocean breeze has just begun to embrace the patio. Of course, I’m here for the sandwich. This one is as traditional as it gets: fresh meat from a one-pound lobster, brushed with sweet butter, stuffed into a toasted New England splittop bun. “There’s absolutely nothing here that isn’t local,” explains general manager Ethan Morgan, who has joined me on the patio. I have to admit, I have trouble listening, distracted by how well the butter brings out the lobster’s natural sweet flavor. “It’s the staple lunch,” Morgan said. “If you grew up anywhere near the coast, you had lobster roll. A lot of people had peanut butter and jelly as a kid. Here, the lobster roll is what you remember about your childhood.” That’s when it hits me. The city’s best lobster roll can’t be found in any restaurant or seafood shack. It comes from somewhere much deeper. It’s the one your mother made for you and your friends as you spent curious summer afternoons exploring the beach. It’s the one in your heart, not on your plate. And there’s no arguing with that. Chris Mallinos is an Ottawa, Canada-based journalist whose work has appeared on six continents and in seven languages. He can be reached at ChrisMallinos.com
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July 24–30, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com
It’s Time to Move Pasta Beyond the Side Salad This Summer By J.M. Hirsch Aside from the occasional pasta salad, America’s favorite carb often takes a vacation during summer. It’s probably because we tend to associate it with more winter-friendly heavy and hot sauces. But pasta doesn’t have to be relegated to the salad bar when the heat is on, particularly since it’s still one of the fastest and easiest ways to get dinner on the table. And that’s particularly important on nights you’d rather be enjoying the great outdoors more than laboring at the stove. Another perk—pasta is a great way to take advantage of summer’s produce bounty. To make the point, I created this fast and flavorful pasta dinner that tosses whole-wheat penne with cooling diced tomatoes and zucchini, a mess of fresh basil and a dollop of crème fraîche to tie it all together. Of course, feel free to substitute whatever fresh veggies inspire you. But since you’re serving them raw, be sure to finely chop them. This recipe calls for slicing tomatoes. There are many varieties, but they all have one this in common—more seeds and less flesh and they are best for salads. One of the varieties is the beefsteak. They are all more or less globular in shape and not elongated like the Roma tomato. From The Associated Press ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
RECIPE PENNE WITH TOMATOES, ZUCCHINI, AND CRÈME FRAÎCHE Prep & Cooking Time: 25 minutes Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS • 2 large slicing tomatoes, cored and finely chopped • 2 medium zucchini, finely chopped • Kosher salt • 12 ounces whole-wheat penne pasta • 8-ounce container crème fraîche • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 lemon zest and juice • Ground black pepper • Handful torn fresh basil
DIRECTIONS In a colander set over the sink or a large bowl, toss the tomatoes and zucchini with about 1 teaspoon of salt. Set aside to drain for 15 minutes. Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package directions until just tender. Drain, and then return to the pot. While the pasta cooks, prepare the crème fraîche. In a small bowl, mix together the crème fraîche, garlic and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. Set aside. Once the tomatoes and zucchini have drained for 15 minutes, gently tap the colander in the sink to shake off any excess liquid. Add the vegetables to the pasta, tossing well. Add the lemon juice, taste, then season with salt and pepper. Divide the pasta and vegetables between 4 serving bowls. Top each serving with a quarter of the crème fraîche mixture, then sprinkle with basil.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Chopped seasonal veggies and fresh lemon make this pasta light enough for summer.
Nutrition information per serving: 580 calories; 230 calories from fat (40 percent of total calories); 25 g fat (14 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 80 mg cholesterol; 530 mg sodium; 73 g carbohydrate; 10 g fiber; 10 g sugar; 15 g protein.
Vinegars You Need to Finish the Dish Right
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus on sushi and excel at the one thing that mattered most.
Over three decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like.
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Are You a Smart Restaurant Owner?
By J.M. Hirsch Sometimes a salad or meat sizzling off the grill— and frequently a cocktail—needs just that special something to tie it all together. When searching for that something, American home cooks frequently overlook one of the best and most ubiquitous choices: vinegars. The sharp acidity and natural sweetness of vinegars—not to mention their affinity for salty, savory flavors and ability to cut through fat—make them perfect for uniting the many ingredients and flavors of a dish. Balsamic vinegar, for example, loves beef and tomatoes. Toss some of both on the grill, then heap them on a plate and scatter them with coarse salt and pepper, and finish with a hefty splash of balsamic. The vinegar not only heightens the natural sugars of the tomatoes and complements the savory flavors of the meat, it also cuts through the meaty, fatty flavors in the most pleasing way. And where would starchy, mayo-rich potato salad be without a splash of cider vinegar to unite everything? Likewise, sushi rice without rice vinegar just wouldn't have that same tang that complements the fatty fish. All of which is to say you need vinegars more than you know, and you need to start using them to finish dishes. Need a primer? Check out the line of finishing vinegars by Wozz Kitchen Creations, a tiny company that makes bracingly sharp, yet still sweet and refreshing finishing vinegars intended to be used straight up on salads, meats, and roasted or grilled vegetables, as well as in the occasional cocktail. The company, which is based in Bethlehem, New Hampshire, produces a variety of fruitinfused vinegars, including spiced pear and ginger; cranberry saffron; Australian-style
spiced beet; balsamic blueberry and maple; and my favorite, spiced strawberry rhubarb (which just so happens to go lovely in a tall glass of gin with ice and a splash of seltzer). Try the spiced pear and ginger on grilled pork chops. The cranberry saffron vinegar is great on roasted winter squash. Spiced beet vinegar goes with toasted pumpkin seeds on fresh greens for a simple, but bold salad. And the balsamic blueberry and maple is wonderful drizzled over fresh berries in a yogurt parfait. From The Associated Press
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Epoch Times • 229 W. 28th St., Floor 5 • New York, NY 10001
D10 July 24–30, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org
Embracing a New Grain for a Fresh Take on Bibimbap Bowls By Melissa D’Arabian Bibimbap is incredibly trendy in urban centers right now. Not familiar with it? You’ll want to be! Bibimbap is a Korean rice bowl—white rice topped with meats, veggies, kimchee (intensely pickled cabbage), and hot sauce. Often, the meat is tossed in Korean barbecue sauce, lending a perfect sweetness to balance out the tangy and spicy flavors of the other ingredients. Bibimbap is a complete multicourse meal in a bowl, slipping effortlessly into our graband-go culinary culture. And since catching on, the flavor profile has expanded. The classic Korean bibimbap has morphed into the more general “grain bowl” menu, where eaters pick and choose which proteins, veggies, and condiments they wish to pile into a bowl of cooked grains, anything from brown rice to quinoa. In my take on bibimbap, I celebrate the traditional combination of sweet-spicy-tangy with sweet potatoes and peaches as the sweet elements, and use a less familiar grain: millet. I keep millet in our house because my daughter is gluten-free, so I like to have a variety of options to cook for the family besides just rice and quinoa. Like many grains, millet can be paired with either savory or sweet dishes, served instead of rice with a roast or topped with roasted fruit and Greek yogurt for a hearty breakfast. Millet is full of fiber, which helps digestive health, but it us also a good source of B vitamins and minerals, such as iron and magnesium. I buy millet in the bulk aisle and keep it in a large canning jar in a cool, dark cupboard. Cook it using a 1-to-2 ratio of millet to water, just as you would rice. Simmer for about 20 minutes, then let it rest, covered, for a few minutes for the water to absorb. My bibimbap is great to serve assembled, or feel free to lay out the elements buffet-style and let people build their own.
Bibimbap is a complete multicourse meal in a bowl, slipping effortlessly into our grab-and-go culinary culture.
RECIPE
CRISPY MILLET BIBIMBAP BOWLS Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour Serves: 4
INGREDIENTS For the Roasted Sesame Sweet Potatoes: • 2 small sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into small cubes • 2 teaspoons sesame oil, divided • 1/4 teaspoon chili powder • Dash cayenne pepper • Kosher salt and ground black pepper • 1 teaspoon sesame seeds For the Bibimbap Bowls: • Peach gochujang sauce (see recipe below) • 1 tablespoon sesame oil • 3 1/2 cups warm cooked millet (about 1 cup dry millet) • 4 small red radishes, thinly sliced • 1 cup packed chopped kale • 1 peach, pitted and thinly sliced • 1 cup pea shoots • 4 teaspoons lime juice, divided • 2 teaspoons neutral oil (such as grapeseed or canola) • 4 eggs, room temperature • 2 cups vegetable broth, hot • Kimchee (purchased) • 1 avocado, pitted, peeled and thinly sliced
DIRECTIONS Add a juicy peach to spicy gochujang for a sweet twist on the classic Korean sauce.
Heat the oven to 400 F. To make the sweet potatoes, on a rimmed baking sheet, toss the sweet potatoes with 1 teaspoon of the sesame oil, the chili powder, cayenne, salt and pepper. Roast for 20 to 25 minutes. Toss with the remaining sesame oil and sesame seeds. Meanwhile, prepare remaining components. Start by
making the peach gochujang sauce (see recipe below). Set aside. Next, in a medium cast-iron skillet over medium, heat the 1 tablespoon of sesame oil. Add the cooked millet and pat down evenly. Cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the millet has formed a crispy layer on the bottom. Remove from the heat. In separate small bowls, toss the radishes, kale, peach slices and pea shoots each with 1 teaspoon of lime juice. Set aside. Heat 2 large skillets over low heat. Add 1 teaspoon of neutral oil to each pan and heat for 1 minute. Gently crack 2 eggs into each pan so that they are not touching. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until the whites are set but the yolks are still runny. To assemble, divide broth among 4 serving bowls, then add a quarter of the millet to each. Top each serving with a quarter of each of the following: kimchee, roasted sesame sweet potatoes, radishes, kale, peach slices, pea shoots, fried eggs and avocado. Serve with peach gochujang sauce on the side.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 540 calories; 210 calories from fat (39 percent of total calories); 24 g fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 215 mg cholesterol; 860 mg sodium; 68 g carbohydrate; 10 g fiber; 15 g sugar; 16 g protein.
RECIPE
Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook, “Supermarket Healthy.” MelissaDArabian.net
PEACH GOCHUJANG SAUCE
From The Associated Press
Total Time: 5 minutes Makes: 2 cups
&
INGREDIENTS
Healthy Natural Homemade, All Natural Broth % Truly No MSG % Natural Umami Flavors % Noodles Made in Collaboration with Ippudo NYC % Vegan Options %
ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP
• • • • •
1 peach, pitted and quartered 1 cup gochujang 1 tablespoon rice vinegar 2 tablespoons sesame oil 3 tablespoons vegetable stock
DIRECTIONS Place all ingredients in a food processor and purée until smooth.
NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per 2 tablespoons: 70 calories; 20 calories from fat (29 percent of total calories); 2.5 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 360 mg sodium; 11 g carbohydrate; 1 g fiber; 6 g sugar; 1 g protein.
HINATA RAMEN
HinataRamen.com 159 East 55th St. (b/w Lex. & 3rd ave) # 212.355.2974
Katsu & Sake
Signature dishes you won’t find in other Japanese restaurants
Discover the Hidden Gem in K-Town The most special dish, reserved for special occasions across Japan. Try this amazing Pork Katsu at HanaMichi. Our unique preparation not only highlights pork, but also chicken, beef and vegetables! A dish worth gathering for!
Pork Katsu
“This is one of my favorite spots in K-town” – Zagat-
28 W 32nd Street, New York, NY 10001
212.736.5393 24 Hours Open www.hanamichinyc.com
Tonkatsu Ramen
Ready for a Bold Take on Refreshing Bubbles? Try Makgeolli By J.M. Hirsch Bubbles are the beverage of the moment, particularly bubbles that aren’t Champagne. It’s a trend that has folks clamoring for cava and prosecco, but for some reason nobody is talking about makgeolli. That might have something to do with most people not knowing how to pronounce it, or what it is. But if you like bubbles—and if something lightly sweet and refreshing sounds about right for summer—makgeolli (pronounced MACH-go-lee, though spelled any number of ways) is an offbeat sparkling wine worth getting to know. Not that it will be easy. Makgeolli is a fermented rice wine from Korea, and you may have to hunt a bit to find it in the United States. Some Asian grocers sell it, but your best bet is at liquor stores located in or near Asian communities. Koreans have been making makgeolli for centuries; it started as the alcohol of choice among farmers. But in recent decades it has become more fashionable and moved into the cities. Traditionally, it is consumed with fried pancakes made from mung beans and pork. It’s a pairing that follows the broader culinary wisdom that sparkling wines pair well with fried and fatty foods, the acidity and effervescence helping to cut through the heavy ingredients. Though it is lightly sparkling, makgeolli bears little resemblance in taste or appearance
to what most of us consider sparkling wines. Because it is unfiltered, it has a creamy white color and a slight viscosity. The flavor is tangy and lightly sweet with lots of citrus in the background. It’s meant to be consumed young and packs just 6 to 9 percent alcohol. Even the packaging can be a bit disarming. It is almost always sold in plastic soda-style bottles (and, at least in Korea, often alongside sugary beverages). It’s also cheap, usually running $8 or so for a liter. Once you find it, how do you drink it? Chilled, of course. And with fried chicken, Asian takeout, barbecue pork ribs, even burgers and sausages off the grill. Just be sure to gently turn the bottle upside down a few times before opening. Because the wine is unfiltered, sediment will collect at the bottom. Want to get more creative? Makgeolli also makes a great mixer. Try it 1:1 with pineapple juice. Or get fancy and doctor up that blend with some lime juice and cream of coconut, then pour the whole thing over ice. For a frozen version of the same drink, toss the pineapple juice, lime juice, cream of coconut and some ice in a blender. Blend until smooth, then stir in makgeolli. Or for a shandy-style cooler, try makgeolli cut with lemonade. From The Associated Press
An assortment of makgeolli.
A drink made with makgeolli, lime juice, and cream of coconut.
D11 July 24–30, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org
ALL PHOTOS BY PETR SVAB/EPOCH TIMES
Win Dinner at Laut
Laut is Malaysian, Singaporean, Thai food, located at 15 E. 17th St.
Doing Justice to the Palate With Korean Spicy Tofu Stew By CiCi Li “A lot of things in life aren’t fair, but food is— any love and energy that you invest will yield the same return.” So says Hooni Kim, the executive chef of Hanjan restaurant in New York City’s Flatiron. That’s also one of the reasons why he so loves to cook. Another is that his passion for the culinary arts was formalized in the throes of a major life crossroads. Kim was studying for a medical degree at the University of California-Berkeley when his fervency for food prep mounted irresistibly. Instead of becoming a doctor, he switched gears and enrolled in the French Culinary Institute. Kim invited me to his restaurant to savor his sundubu jjigae—a Korean spicy tofu stew. The restaurant’s name, Hanjan, means “one drink” in Korean and is typically used invitingly, as in “let’s have a drink.” It’s inspired by the joomak, Korean taverns from hundreds of years ago that offered travelers scrumptious food, delectable drinks, and a place to rest their bones. Sundubu jjigae is a stew made with tofu, vegetables, and seafood or meat. A raw egg is added just before serving. It’s typically eaten with a bowl of cooked white rice and several banchan side dishes. Tofu is a popular ingredient in Korean cuisine that has been served since the Joseon Dynasty in the 14th century. “Tofu is like a blank canvas—you can add any flavor combinations to it,” Kim told me as I gazed into the pot of stew, mesmerized by the cubes of bean curd simmering away. When at long last I scooped up a spoonful of the stew—delicious!—justice was done to my palate. Indeed the tofu was imbued with flavors—spicy, savory, sweet—yet stayed so delicate. Wonderful! I hope you enjoy this dish as much as I did. Bon appétit. CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradise” on NTD Television. She’s also a food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventures and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise” at CiCiLi.tv
RECIPE KOREAN SPICY TOFU STEW Preparation Time: 5 minutes Cooking Time: 15 minutes Serves: 2
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INGREDIENTS • 5 ounces pork belly, chopped into bite size pieces • 2 tablespoons sesame oil • 1 teaspoon salt • 1 tablespoon garlic, minced • 4 tablespoons Korean red pepper flakes • 1 quart low sodium chicken stock • 2 medium white onions, chopped into bite size pieces • 1 medium zucchini, chopped into bite size pieces • 20 ounces extra soft tofu • 1/2 bunch scallions, chopped • 1 raw egg
DIRECTIONS To a medium saucepan, add sesame oil, pork, and salt. Stir for 2 minutes over medium high heat. Then add garlic and red pepper flakes and stir for another 1 minute until the aroma emerges. Pour the chicken stock into the saucepan and let it boil for 5 minutes. Add onions, zucchini, and tofu, then let it boil for another 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, add scallions and the raw egg to the stew, and serve. Recipe adapted from the original recipe by executive chef Hooni Kim, Hanjan restaurant
Silky tofu soaks up the rich flavors of pork belly, sesame oil, and Korean red pepper in this satisfying stew.
ept.ms/TasteSurvey2015
(case sensitive)
Asian Restaurant Listings UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com
UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com
HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com
MIDTOWN EAST
Chef Hooni Kim (R) shares his sundubu jjigae—Korean spicy tofu stew—with writer CiCi Li at hisFlatiron restaurant Hanjan.
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Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com
THAI
INDIAN
KOREAN
CHINESE
JAPANESE
SOUTHEAST ASIAN
Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com
KOREATOWN Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com
GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com
KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com
VIETNAMESE
SRI LANKAN
ASIAN FUSION
MALAYSIAN
Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com
GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com
EAST VILLAGE SenYa Featured Dishes: Yuzu Hamachi; Rock Shrimp Tempura; SenYa Omakase 109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com
BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com
BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com
QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499
D12
Epoch Times, July 24–30, 2015
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