Epoch Taste 8-19-2016

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ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMAMI BAR AND RESTAURANT

D1 August 19–25, 2016

Tasting Iowa on

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www.EpochTaste.com

These pillowy bao buns are filled with this succulent pork belly, braised and seasoned with an alluring mix of spices with star anise, clove, and peppercorn.

An

Umami Feast Plate after plate of Japanese soul food at Amami By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

J

apanese cuisine has a reputation for being highbrow and sophisticated. But there’s a whole genre of Japanese food that is pure comfort, filled with deep-fried goodness and addictively flavorful sauces. See Amami on D2

The Miso Glazed Black Cod is charbroiled for a silky, buttery texture.

Umami: Our fifth sense of taste, for things that are incredibly savory and delicious.


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMAMI BAR AND RESTAURANT

Amami has an extensive menu of creative sushi rolls, such as this Four Seasons roll: Spicy tuna, salmon, and yellowtail, topped with four different kinds of caviar.

An Umami Feast Amami continued from D1 Amami Bar and Restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, is the latest eatery where you can order such satisfying dishes. Its large menu, prepared by chef Nick Wang (previously of Ako Sushi and Hatsuhana), consists of nearly all the Japanese classics you can think of: sushi rolls, ramen, gyoza dumplings, grilled skewers, rice bowls. He chose a wide variety of such dishes because they stand the test of time, and because they’re his personal favorites too. Wang’s attention to preparation makes Amami’s renditions stand out. The Miso Glazed Black Cod, for example, is marinated in organic white miso and mirin (cooking rice wine) overnight, then charbroiled for an incredibly buttery texture that slides off the tongue when eating ($9). The sweetness in the seasoning is subtle, balanced with an earthy aged red miso served on the side for dipping. Similarly, the Ika Murayaki, a traditional dish of grilled whole squid, shines because of its basil-ginger sauce ($9). Unlike most tare (Japanese for dipping sauce or glaze) used in restaurants, this is not just sweet—there’s a little bitterness and spiciness to it too. The rings of delightfully chewy squid take up the sauce well, but don’t lose their brininess. What’s refreshing is that Wang tends to make the dishes lighter than their typical preparations. The pork belly in the Pork Buns ($7) gets enormous flavor from the alluring mixture of spices it’s braised in: star anise,

What’s refreshing is that chef Nick Wang tends to make the dishes lighter than their typical preparations.

Shrimp and vegetable tempura, deep-fried in a wheat flour batter.

Popcorn shrimp, served with a honeySriracha crema.

cinnamon, dried chili, cloves, and peppercorn. But it’s thinly sliced so you are not overwhelmed by the meat’s fattiness. Tonkotsu ramen is usually rich and slicked with oil, but Amami’s version is surprisingly clean ($15). The broth, made by boiling pork bones for more than 14 hours, is delicate, slightly gingery, and enhanced by a swirl of savory garlic oil. Don’t miss the deep-fried dishes. The Popcorn Shrimp ($10) and Crispy Calamari ($8) both have awesome crunch and accompanying dipping sauces that play on sweet and spicy: a honey-sriracha crema and a peppertamarind sauce, respectively. The calamari gets its extra crispy texture from a panko breadcrumb coating. Dessert is Western-style with Japanese flavors: the Green Tea Tiramisu is soaked in mizuame, a Japanese rice syrup, instead of coffee. Its muted sweetness complements the bitterness of the green tea ($7). The Tempura Cheesecake is coated with tempura flakes and fried in tempura batter, for a creamy dessert with crunch ($7). For drinks, there are inventive cocktails on the menu. For example, the When Hemingway Cheated on Juliette takes gin as the base for an unusual combination that works: a syrup of cilantro meets citrusy notes from orange bitters and fresh lemon juice ($12).

Amami Bar and Restaurant

57 Nassau Ave. (between Guernsey & Lorimer streets) Greenpoint, Brooklyn 917-909-1568 AmamiBK.com Hours Monday–Thursday Noon–11 p.m. Friday & Saturday 10:30 a.m.–midnight Sunday 10 a.m.–11 p.m. A bowl of surprisingly clean and delicate tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen.

(Left) Calamari, crusted with Japanese panko breadcrumbs for extra crunch.

(Right) Yakitori, or grilled chicken skewers, are a staple of Japanese izakaya (pub) fare.


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com CRYSTAL SHI/EPOCH TIMES

CRYSTAL SHI/EPOCH TIMES

CRYSTAL SHI/EP

Summer in Iowa means some of the sweetest and juiciest tomatoes in the country.

OCH TIMES CRYSTAL SHI/EP

OCH TIMES

Fresh vegetables abound at the Downtown Des Moines Farmers Market.

IOWA

A Taste of America’s Heartland

By Crystal Shi | Epoch Times Staff

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ES MOINES, Iowa—A rainbow sits on the plate before me. There’s fresh heirloom tomato, sliced in glistening half-moons, next to a pile of lightly blanched green beans, emerald-bright. Sautéed eggplant gleams lush and dark, and thick-cut pattypan squash and zucchini flaunt vibrant skins and caramelized tops. On the next plate lies a row of pale orange cantaloupe, creamy flesh dotted with basil and black pepper. It’s a radiant spread, and here’s the best part: Everything on the table was grown less than an hour away. Here at the Wallace House, in Des Moines, Iowa, chef Katie Porter works magic with produce grown on the Henry A. Wallace Country Life Center farm in the small city of Orient. The two locations, just 60 miles apart, make up the Wallace Centers of Iowa. Carrying on the legacy of the Wallace family, who were leaders in American agricultural reform in their time, the Wallace Centers work to raise people’s awareness of local food and sustainable farming. Alongside cooking classes and educational tours, they serve weekly meals—lunch on-site at the farm and dinner at the Wallace House—showcasing seasonal produce straight from the farm. Every bite is a burst of summer—fresh, clean,

Every bite is a burst of summer— fresh, clean, and unbelievably delicious.

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and unbelievably delicious. Each component is simple. With fruits and veggies this fresh, harvested at the peak of their ripeness, little doctoring is needed—they shine on their own. Porter’s cooking is a celebration of Iowa’s incredible bounty, visible at every turn. Take a drive along any highway, and you’ll find yourself flanked by miles and miles of cornfields, stretching out as far as the eye can see. Follow a wooden sign pointing down a gravel driveway off the county road, and you’ll stumble upon a family farm and its crinkly-eyed farmer, eager to tell you everything he knows about arugula. Drop by the Downtown Farmers Market on a summer morning, and you’ll be faced with a dizzying display of fruit and veggies, from towering stacks of sweet corn to rainbow-streaked piles of silky tomatoes, right alongside farmstead cheeses, handcrafted birdhouses, and everything in between. It’s a bounty that’s gradually making its way into Iowa’s restaurants. Despite the abundance of fresh produce right at its fingertips, much of the local dining scene is filled with chain restaurants and commodity products, while industrial agriculture takes up large swaths of land. But now, things are changing. Within the last five years, more and more places have been returning to the farming state’s roots —quite literally.

In Des Moines, I found a vibrant local food scene helmed by a group of passionate restaurant owners, chefs, and producers dedicated to bringing Iowa’s bounty to its own people. And for many of these owners and chefs, eating “farm-to-table” is simply a way of life— something that’s always been embedded in their upbringing and culture. “We just call it food,” said Brett McClavy, chef at The Cheese Shop of Des Moines. The Cheese Shop, owned by husband-and-wife team C.J. and Kari Bienert, works with a number of Iowa farmers and suppliers for their fresh produce, cheese, and charcuterie. They’re good friends with many of their partners—a testament to the warm collaboration and mutual support within the community. Chefs often go directly to the farms to pick up produce, check on the livestock, meet with the farmers, and even help out in the fields. Every Tuesday, McClavy heads to Grade A Gardens, one of The Cheese Shop’s main suppliers, to work on the farm for five hours. “It’s a great change of pace for us,” he said, “to get out in the sun, or the rain, in the mud, and just be vegetable farmers for a day.” Herb Eckhouse, co-founder of La Quercia, works closely with pig farmers and visits them on their properties.

Brussels Sprouts at Reed’s Hollow in Des Moines come in a caramelized fish sauce topped with plenty of fresh herbs.

See Iowa on D10

CRYSTAL SHI/EPOCH TIMES

CRYSTAL SHI/EPOCH TIMES

With simple preparations, chef Katie Porter lets the fresh flavors of Iowa’s produce shine through.

COURTESY OF THE WALLACE CENTERS OF IOWA

S OF IOWA WALLACE CENTER COURTESY OF THE

CRYSTAL SHI/EP

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Fruits and vegetables from the Country Life Center farm, just 60 miles away, star in the Wallace House’s Farm to Table Dinners.

At the Wallace House, chef Porter prepares delicious fruit- and veggie-forward dishes, like this homemade peach ice cream (left) and loaded crostini (middle).


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF SURF CITY COURTESY OF DEL FRISCO’S GRILLE

stuff to eat and drink around nyc

HARLEM/HAVANA MUSIC AND CULTURAL FESTIVAL The outdoor dining area at Surf City. COURTESY OF DEL FRISCO’S GRILLE

As part of a culinary and cultural exchange between Harlem and Havana, this festival celebrates all things Cuban, with participating Harlem restaurants creating special Cuban-inspired dishes and cocktails. Restaurants including Ginny’s Supper Club, Red Rooster Harlem, Sylvia’s, La Fonda del Sol, Tastings Social Presents Mountain, and more will serve Cuban classics like ropa vieja, oxtails and plantains, pollo a la criola, and tostones with black-eyed pea salsa. Jazz saxophonist César López and Afro-Cuban dance company Compañía de Danzas Tradicionales de Cuba JJ, among others, will perform during the festival.

Surf City, located right across the river in Jersey City, will be screening hits like “Taxi Driver,” “Men in Black,” and “Blade Runner” on Wednesdays, weather permitting, through the end of August. While you watch, nosh on summery dishes, such as seafood paella, lobster mac and cheese, and grilled Mayan shrimp. Through Aug. 31 Surf City 1 Marin Blvd., Jersey City, N.J. SurfCityBar.com

Through Sunday, Aug. 21 HarlemHavana.nyc

CELEBRATING NATIONAL PARK SERVICE WITH ICE CREAM

Cheesesteak egg rolls.

The Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory is hosting an ice cream social to mark the National Park Service’s 100th anniversary. Ice cream flavors include Strawb-Ellis Island, Joshua Peach Tree & Cream, and Rocky Mountain Vanilla Chocolate Chunk. Attendees can participate in games and activities all day. Bill Nye the Science Guy will host an interactive experience and Questlove will be the DJ for a set in the evening. Monday, Aug. 22 1 p.m.–10 p.m. Brooklyn Bridge Park, Pier 1 NPS.gov/subjects/centennial

MOVIES ON THE BEACH AT SURF CITY

OLYMPICS MENU AT POUND & PENCE

PATIO PARTIES AT DEL FRISCO’S GRILLE During the last weekends of summer, Del Frisco’s Grille in Rockefeller Center is hosting outdoor fun with games like rosé pong, life-size Jenga, and giant Scrabble. Diners can enjoy burgers, appetizers, and a different keg each week. The weekend of Aug. 20 will feature Radiant Pig Craft Brews, while the weekend of Aug. 27 will feature labels from Ballast Point Brewery. Through Sunday, Aug. 28 Del Frisco’s Grille 50 Rockefeller Plaza DelFriscos.com

The British pub Pound & Pence is offering a slate of special dishes to celebrate the Rio Olympics. Highlighting Brazilian fare, they are serving Bolinho de Tilapia (Brazilian tilapia fritters) and Picanha Steak, a popular Brazilian cut of beef, while also offering international plates such as Sesame-Crusted Tuna Steak and Indian Chicken Curry. Special cocktails include the Caipifruta, made with Leblon cachaça, Montenegro amaro, puréed passion fruit, and lime. Through Wednesday, Aug. 31 Pound & Pence 55 Liberty St. PoundAndPence.com

OLYMPICS SPECIALS AT MERCHANTS RIVER HOUSE Facing the Hudson River and offering a view of the Statue of Liberty, the Merchants River House invites diners to enjoy the final days of the Olympics with Brazilian fare. The special offerings include starters, such as coxinha, or traditional chicken croquettes; and cocktails, such as The Torch, made with gin, grapefruit juice, St. Germain, mint, and prosecco.

MEET THE CRAFTSMAN AT L’AMICO

Through Wednesday, Aug. 31 Merchant Rivers House 375 South End Ave. MerchantsRiver House.com

L’Amico 849 Avenue of the Americas LAmico.nyc

L’Amico’s series highlighting beverage craftspeople is back after a hiatus. Every other Monday, the restaurant invites a brewer, winemaker, or artisan to chat about their work and pour their signature beverages. Upcoming guests include Eve’s Cidery, Forge Cellars, Orchard Hill, and Owney’s Rum. $20 per person. We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills” approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I

T

he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.

212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)

NICHO NUGRAHA

Obsessive Attention to Detail Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe. Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!

A bento lunch box at Natsumi Tapas.

NATSUMI TAPAS LUNCH MENU The Japanese-Italian joint Natsumi Tapas is now serving weekday lunches. The new menu offers sushi options such as Spicy Tuna Roll; salads such as Tofu Shiitake salad with house dressing; pasta, like the Chicken Katsu Penne with tomato, basil, and Parmesan, served with focaccia and house salad; and bento box style combination plates, such as Chicken Teriyaki, served with vegetable tempura, miso soup, sushi roll, and a house salad.

Natsumi Tapas 323 Third Ave. NatsumiTapas.com


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ASIA COLADNER

COURTESY OF EATALY

LA MARINA SUMMER MENU The Inwood spot has a new menu to savor the final days of summer. Executive chef Ian Friedman has created dishes such as Grilled Free Range Chicken Bánh Mì, topped off with pickled carrots, watermelon radish, cilantro, cucumber, guasacaca sauce, and chipotle aioli; Gambas al Ajillo, shrimp prepared with garlic, chili, dry white wine, lemon, and butter, and served with Spanish-style saffron rice; and Sixteen Hour Brisket, smoked grass-fed beef served with mac and cheese, braised collard greens, and cornbread. The chef has chosen drink pairings to enhance the dishes. Through Wednesday, Sept. 5 La Marina 348 Dyckman St. LaMarinaNYC.com

La Marina’s Grilled Free Range Chicken banh mi.

Pizza alle Vongole.

EATALY FLATIRON PIZZA SPECIALS

COURTESY OF CEMITAS EL TIGRE

TACOS AND TRIVIA AT SOUTH STREET SEAPORT

Eataly Flatiron chefs are serving pizza specials in all of their ground floor restaurants through mid-September. The choices include La Piazza’s Mini Calzoni, a folded pizza with a crust made of fried Wild Hive Farm rye dough, stuffed with kale, spinach, fontina, and Parmigiano Reggiano, and wrapped with Prosciutto di Parma; the Manzo’s Calzoncini Napoletani, a fried calzone with salame, prosciutto, mozzarella, ricotta, and Parmigiano Reggiano; and Il Pesce’s Pizza alle Vongole, made with housemade mozzarella and Long Island little neck clams cooked in white wine and mixed with red onion and oregano, on Ligurian focaccia.

On Tuesdays, you can grab tacos and beer at South Street Seaport while playing rounds of trivia. Cemitas El Tigre will serve three chicken or pork tacos for $10 and Sixpoint Brewery will offer buckets of Sixpoint for $25. Tuesdays, 7 p.m.–8:30 p.m. South Street Seaport Fulton Market Building 19 Fulton St. SouthStreetSeaport.com

Through Sunday, Sept. 11 Eataly Flatiron, 200 Fifth Ave. Eataly.com

Cemitas El Tigre tacos.

SACHA BELL

AI FIORI LATE NIGHT HAPPY HOUR

DANTE BREAKFAST

Michael White’s Michelin-starred Italian restaurant is now launching a late-night happy hour, when the restaurant will give a 25 percent discount on all wines by the bottle. Ai Fiori’s wine list, curated by sommelier Hristo Zivoski, consists of over 1,500 labels from Champagne, Burgundy, Piemonte, Tuscany, and more. Mondays–Saturdays, 9 p.m. Ai Fiori 400 Fifth Ave., Second level AiFioriNYC.com

This decades-old Greenwich Village cafe is now serving breakfast on weekdays. With Dante’s new Australian owners, the menu has taken a Down Under turn, featuring the Australian cafe staple of toast with ingredients loaded on top. The burrata toast with sea salt and honeycomb is a play on textures: oozing cheese with a sticky, taffylike blob of honeycomb. The n’duja toast takes a nod from the cafe’s Italian history, with some fennel pickles to balance the spicy sausage, while the heirloom tomato toast pairs sardines with pickles and red onion. The housemade banana bread, studded with nuts and crispy at its crust, is served with a spread of ricotta and honey. Dante 79-81 Macdougal St. Dante-NYC.com

Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

Summer on a Stick By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff Back in the ‘50s, hawkers in Rimini, on the Adriatic Coast of Italy, would wander the beaches and sell lemon-shaped sorbetto-on -a-stick, to the delight of beachgoers. Today these popsicles, made under the brand Lolly, have made their way to our shores. Remarkably they are still handmade in Italy, and a double-creaming process results in a texture light as snow. It’s amazing the airy ice hangs on to the wooden stick at all. The company that makes them, La Galvanina, seeks out the best organic fruit from within Italy, and only when they’re in season. That means lemons and blood oranges from Sicily, peaches and kiwis from Emilia-Romagna, and strawberries and watermelon from the Veneto region.

If you must pick only one flavor, make it the Sicilian Lemon.

Dante’s burrata toast with sea salt and honeycomb.

COURTESY OF LA GALVANINA

The water used is the company’s own mineral water, sourced from an ancient spring that was discovered by the Romans. The popsicles are available through online grocery retailer FreshDirect in limited flavors: Sicilian Lemon, Blood Orange, Strawberry, and Wild Berry. The best of the bunch is the Sicilian Lemon, and the first bite impresses with an explosion of fragrance somewhere between herbaltinged zest and lemon blossoms. It’s not overly sugary but still has that satisfying balance between tart and sweet. My 6-year-old couldn’t be bothered to part with that flavor in favor of the strawberry one—which in fairness, was lovely also. The company must know the appeal of the Sicilian fruit, as they use 10 percent Sicilian lemon juice in all the other popsicles. The Blood Orange is also very good—and I’d say better suited for adults—with its balance of citrusy and pleasingly bitter flavors. As you eat the sorbetto, it becomes a little precarious; it threatens to slide off the stick,

but that’s the price to pay for its lack of reliance on artificial stabilizers. And after all, what’s summer without a little bit of a sticky, sweet mess? Available exclusively from FreshDirect.com, $5.99 for a box of four

Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.

The Nuaa

1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC COURTESY OF BLACK TAP

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n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many

Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant

celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).

236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.patsys.com

Samui, named after the Thai Island, aims to introduce a healthier, less sugar-heavy modern Thai cuisine. Owner A. Napadol, who had careers in jewelry and real estate before starting the restaurant, showcases the dishes learned from her grandmother. Dishes include Spicy Grilled Beef, with lime and mint; Turmeric Garlic Chicken Wings, with a sweet chili peanut dip; and Black Potato Fritters, with a cucumber relish. Open daily for dinner.

15 Vanderbilt Ave. (near Flushing Avenue) Fort Greene, Brooklyn 917-909-1032 SamuiBrooklyn.com

There are the restaurants you go to, and

The Restaurant You Go Back to.

Samui

Black Tap’s famous, gigantic shakes.

Black Tap Down A third outpost of the popular Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer is now open in SoHo. Chef and owner Joe Isidori brings a quintessential American luncheonette experience, with a variety of burgers like the Greg Norman, with wagyu beef, blue cheese, and a dressing of buttermilk and dill. Isidori’s gigantic famous shakes are still there, threatening to collapse under the weight of all their toppings. “We’ve really become a part of this neighborhood, and I’m excited to open Black Tap Down, giving our guests a little more room to bring friends and family around,” Isidori said in a press release. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.

529 Broome St. (between Sullivan & Thompson streets) SoHo 917-639-3089 BlackTapNYC.com

The Last Word The storefront at speakeasy-style cocktail lounge The Last Word, in Astoria, is humble. But inside, the 2,000-squarefoot, 60-seat venue showcases an elegant, 1920s-inspired setting with plush seating, vintage tin ceilings, and a 16-foot marble and oak bar. The cocktails include classics as well as signature creations, curated by Padraig O’Brien (formerly of The Raines Law Room and Park Hyatt New York). House creations include the Rabble Rouser with rhum agricole, muddled raspberries, Dolin blanc, rhubarb water, fresh lemon, and sparkling water; and the Mumbai Daiquiri with white rum, Batavia Arrack, curry syrup, lime, and rose water. Open daily from 5 p.m.

31-30 Ditmars Blvd. (between 31st & 33rd streets) Astoria, Queens 718-440-3378 TLWAstoria.com

COURTESY OF SPOON TABLE & BAR

Tarallucci e Vino

Authentic Japanese GMO FREE

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)

• Dessert

$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

TACOS All day, every day

A huge selection of Tacos, made the traditional way with authentic fillings and flavors such as: CARNITAS BISTEC OREJA LENGUA AND MORE! Did we mention they start at $3?

We also serve torta sandwiches!

Taqueria Tehuitzingo

695 10th Ave (@ 48th St.) • 578 W. 9th. Ave (Btw 41st & 42nd St)

646-707-3916 • TaqueriaTehutzingo.com Hours Daily 11:00 a.m.–11:00 p.m.

A fifth location of Tarallucci e Vino opens on Aug. 15 in NoMad. The executive chef is Cara Hermanson, who previously worked as sous-chef under Justin Smilie at Upland and Il Buco Alimentari. For this location, Hermanson is introducing new dishes such as Roasted Prawns with Calabrian chilis, roasted peppers, rouille, and garlic croutons; and for brunch, a decadent Paccheri Carbonara with crispy pancetta, eggs, and Parmesan. The menu also features Tarallucci e Vino’s classics from Abruzzo such as Screppelle M’busse (egg crepes in broth) and Fregnacce with braised duck ragu (sheets of fresh pasta filled with braised meat sauce). The wine program highlights lesser known varietals and has an extensive selection of lambruscos. The 1,200-square-foot restaurant, which seats 70, is located in a luxury residential building designed by award-winning architect Christian de Portzamparc, and has an outdoor patio. A happy hour offers an Italianfocused cocktail menu. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

44 E. 28th St. (between Park & Madison avenues) NoMad 212-779-1100 TaralluccieVino.net

LaRina Pastificio & Vino Fresh pasta, made in-house with organic flour, is the focus of LaRina Pastificio & Vino, opens on Aug. 10 in Fort Greene. The dishes range from traditional pastas, like squid ink Bucatini Alle Acciughe with Cantabrico anchovies, to the modern take on Buckwheat Conchiglie with smoked eggplant and 'nduja, a spreadable, spicy pork sausage. The three partners behind the restaurant are Giulia Pelliccioni and Roberto Aita (owners of Aita and The Mayflower in Clinton Hill and Aita Trattoria in Crown Heights), and chef Silvia Barban, formerly of Giovanni Rana. Guests have the option of ordering pastas à la carte or as tastings (with options of three, five, or seven types) for the table. A backyard garden accommodates al fresco dining. The wine program will include wines from the United States and Italy, including indigenous Italian varietals. Negroni cocktails will come in five variations. Open daily for dinner from 5 p.m. Weekend brunch to come.

387 Myrtle Ave. (between Clermont & Vanderbilt avenues) Fort Greene, Brooklyn 718-852-0001 LaRinaBK.com

Branzino at Spoon Table & Bar.

Spoon Table & Bar Chef Melissa Chmelar (of Spoon and Tbsp.) has opened Spoon Table & Bar, featuring classic Spoon signatures such as Four Cheese Mac n’ Cheese and Chicken Pot Pie, in addition to comforting dishes like Pan-Seared Salmon, served with red quinoa and brown rice, and Grilled Berkshire Pork Chop served with smashed Red Bliss potatoes and greens. The breakfast menu is hearty, with Baked Eggs with roasted crimini mushrooms, grape tomatoes, Parmesan, and salsa verde; and Bodega Sammie, fried eggs, cheddar, and your choice of bacon or sausage on focaccia. For a shot of caffeine, the restaurant carries Stumptown nitro brew coffee. Open daily.

40 E. 33rd St. (between Madison & Park avenues) Midtown East 646-230-7000 SpoonNYC.com

Lala Sahab Lala Sahab, the new restaurant opening Aug. 15 from executive chef Lala Sharma, features his take on Indian classics. The menu includes small plates including Dahi Batata Poori, round, crispy shells filled with spiced chickpeas and drizzled with yogurt; and Tikka Sliders, tandooricooked chicken with tikka masala seasoning, served on a bun with housemade chutneys. The weekend brunch menu features Eggs Bhurji, made with onions, green peppers, salt, pepper, and green chilies, and the Thali, a large plate with eggs and bread served with a variety of vegetables. Open daily for dinner and on Saturday and Sunday for brunch.

489 Columbus Ave. (between 83rd & 84th streets) Upper West Side 212-875-1400 LalaSahabNY.com

Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Coney’s Cones

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

(Clockwise from left) Raspberry gelato and Milano cookie gelato.

An ice cream sandwich, Italian-style.

Chocolate gelato, served in a tender brioche bun. The Stillwell Avenue outpost of Coney’s Cones. There are 24 different gelato flavors to choose from. Daniele Dal Sasso, the gelato maker at Coney’s Cones, hails from Vicenza, Italy. COURTESY OF LUNA PARK SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES COURTESY OF LUNA PARK

S

omething cold and sweet: that’s what you need to cool down at the beach. When you’re basking in the sun in Coney Island, Coney’s Cones makes for a refreshing one-stop shop for artisanal gelato, granitas, sorbets, frozen yogurt, and iced drinks. The gelato maker, Daniele Dal Sasso, is from Vicenza, Italy. He began working in kitchens at a young age, but later fell in love with gelato-making and opened his own shop in his hometown. Now, years later, Dal Sasso serves his refreshing treats at the Luna Park amusement park. Using imported Italian ingredients and

Coney’s Cones

no additives, Dal Sasso churns smooth, rich flavors like stracciatella, milky and pure, with chocolate shavings swimming throughout ($4 for one scoop, $5 for two, $6 for three). Gelato lovers are spoiled for choice—there are 24 flavors in all, from coconut to cappuccino. The pistachio gelato is perfectly nutty, while raspberry is bright and tangy—the taste of summer. For a more decadent treat, try the gelato sandwich, featuring your flavor of choice on a buttery brioche bun. The Milano cookie flavor is a heavenly combination of creamy vanilla and chocolate

1023 Boardwalk West Coney Island, Brooklyn 718-373-5862 ConeyScones.com Hours Sunday–Thursday 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday & Saturday 11 a.m.–midnight

gelato, swirled with the eponymous chocolate cookies, crispy and delightful to munch on. Icy granitas are also a thirst-quenching option, offered in green apple, cherry, lemon, and blue raspberry ($5). Coney’s Cones has a main shop located on the boardwalk, while two kiosks are located inside Luna Park, across from the Luna 360 ride and behind the Soarin’ Eagle ride. Other dining options also operated by CAI Foods include the festive Mexican-themed Place to Beach on the boardwalk, and Cyclone Cafe, offering classic American fare at Luna Park.

ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Murtabak, an Indian-inspired roti dish filled with minced beef.

Chomp Chomp By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff Singapore is a place where street food rules: it’s ubiquitous, delicious, and impressive in its diversity. At Chomp Chomp in the West Village, chef Simpson Wong cooks up the bold, pungent flavors of his hometown, where he says many locals stop at hawker stands for a quick morning meal on the way to work. Popular breakfast dishes derive from the cuisines of different ethnic groups that live on the island. According to Wong, the Malays prefer Nasi Lemak ($14), a platter with rice cooked in coconut milk, alongside pieces of curry chicken, lamb rendang (a dish that involves stewing meat in a variety of Southeast Asian spices until it gains a smoky, herbal quality), anchovies, peanuts, and sambal—a funkalicious chili-shrimp paste. The different components are in small portions, so the dish isn’t too heavy. Indians have brought their cuisine to Singapore too. Murtabak ($9), roti, filled with minced beef, is like a savory pancake, light and crispy. Meanwhile, the Teochew Chinese population enjoy eating Chye Tao Kueh ($14), cubes of radish that are thrown in the wok with shrimp, Chinese sausages, chives, bean sprouts, and egg. The soft, melt-in-your-mouth bites absorb the smoky char from the wok, making them all too easy to devour one after another. Chomp Chomp is currently only open at night, so go when you’re in the mood for breakfast for dinner.

Chye Tao Kueh, melt-in-yourmouth bites of fried radish.

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

Chomp Chomp

7 Cornelia St. 212-929-2888 ChompChompNYCTest. SquareSpace.com Hours Monday–Thursday, Sunday 5:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m. Friday & Saturday 5:30 p.m.–11 p.m.

Nasi Lemak, a platter of rice, egg, anchovies, and meats.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

Deliciously Sponsored

Artisanal Gelatos by the Beach


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August 19–25, 2016

www.EpochTaste.com

Lau t

ept

.ms /ta ste win

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF LISA DORSING

A Family at the Heart of

Cherry Country

Tart Montmorency cherries (top) are harvested with a cherry shaker (left), while sweet Bing cherries (bottom right) are picked by hand.

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OYAL CITY, Wash.—The trees that fill the orchards are dotted with jewels— gleaming orbs, vibrantly red, nestled among the verdant leaves. Closer inspection reveals not precious gems, but a different kind of treasure: thousands of tart Montmorency cherries, ripened in the summer sun. The Montmorency reigns king here at Dorsing Farms, a third-generation family farm in Washington state’s Columbia Basin. They’re one of the region’s largest tart cherry growers; the stone fruit fills 1,500 acres of orchards on the farm. The Dorsings have been farming this land since 1962, when Karl Dorsing won 30 acres in a state-sponsored lottery. Dorsing and his family moved from Oregon to Washington to start the farm, and when he grew old, he passed it down to his children. His children, in turn, turned it over to theirs: brothers Bryce and Patrick, and brothers Kevin and Scott. Today, the farm grows 2,500 acres of cherry and apple orchards, blueberry fields, and wheat and alfalfa crops. The current generation of Dorsings oversees the land, along with an original wholesale line, Royal Ridge Fruits, and a consumer line, Stoneridge Orchards. Fresh fruit from the orchards is taken to the Royal Ridge plant, just 15 minutes away, and frozen or dried into addictive treats. Their dried Montmorency cherries are especially moreish—plump and juicy, bursting with sweetness, and all too easy to keep popping in your mouth, one after another. The Dorsings are a tight-knit bunch, their family bonds strengthened by the farm and the proud heritage tied to it. Many of them grew up here, spending their summers playing in the fields and helping with the harvest once they were old enough. “The outdoors was our oyster,” Bryce said,

Family portrait: Two generations of Dorsings— and a third in the making. recalling fond childhood memories. “There was a lot of hard work, but a lot of fun things we got to do as well. It’s a great upbringing, a good place to raise a family and kids.” Not everyone stays but no one can completely leave it behind either. Summer barbecues bring together family living on or near the farm, and those who’ve moved away come back for bigger celebrations in the year. There’s the yearly Dorsing Christmas, a three-day weekend event complete with a gift exchange, game night, and copious amounts of good food, and an October hunting trip (“We call it hunting, but it’s more like glorified camping,” Bryce said), spent roasting hot dogs and s’mores and catching up around the fire. After the harvest, the family takes a long weekend traveling the Oregon coast, to get away and unwind after working 14- to 16 -hour days. For the self-proclaimed “cherry people,” cherry crisps and cobblers are a family tradition. Dark tart cherries, a lesser known and grown variety, are the star of a ruby red crisp. A dense, buttery crust under gooey, sweet cherry filling and nutty, crunchy oat topping come together in a summery slab. It’s best enjoyed with ice cream—the perfect end to a summertime feast.

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Since tart cherries are mainly used in cooking and baking, they’re rarely sold fresh. Snatch them up if you see them, but frozen and canned will work just as well in this recipe.

For the Pastry • 1/4 teaspoon salt • 1/2 cup packed brown sugar • 1 cup all-purpose flour • 1/2 cup cold butter, grated or chopped into small pieces For the Filling • 1 cup sugar • 1/4 cup cornstarch • 1 cup tart cherry juice • 4 cups pitted dark tart cherries • 1/2 teaspoon almond extract For the Topping • 1 1/2 cups quick-cooking rolled oats • 1/2 cup packed brown sugar • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour • 5 tablespoons butter, melted

DIRECTIONS For the Pastry Combine salt, sugar, and flour; cut in the cold butter. Press mixture into a 2-quart or 11-inch-

by-7-inch baking dish. Bake at 350 F for 15 minutes. For the Filling Combine sugar and cornstarch in a saucepan. Stir in cherry juice. Cook over medium heat until thick, stirring constantly. Fold in cherries and almond extract. Pour mixture over baked crust. Combine all topping ingredients; sprinkle over filling. Bake for 20–25 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly around the edges. Recipe courtesy of Phyllis Dorsing


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

Taking Green Bean Salad Up a Notch

RECIPE

By Katie Workman

GREEN BEAN SALAD WITH CLEMENTINE ORANGES AND FETA

Green beans can be—well, I’ll say it, boring. They are one of the most accessible and affordable vegetables on the market, and one of the easiest to prepare, but too often they bring to mind the word “meh.” But green beans can lend themselves to so many different kinds of preparations and seasonings that there are lots of reasons to make the effort to take them to another level. They can be roasted, steamed, boiled, and sauteed, or served at room temperature in a salad, as in this recipe. Here they are paired with bright, tangy clementines and salty feta, then lifted up another notch with minced shallots

Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Servings: 6 • • • • • • • •

KATIE WORKMAN VIA AP

1 1/2 pounds green beans 3 clementines 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar 2 tablespoons minced shallots 1 tablespoon coarse Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste • 1 cup crumbled feta

DIRECTIONS Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Drop the beans into the water and let them cook for 3 minutes until they start to become tender. Drain the beans in a colander and run cold water over them to stop the cooking.

and fresh thyme. If you don’t have coarse Dijon you can use regular, though I like the extra texture that the coarse variety gives to the dressing. The beans can be cooked and tossed with the dressing up to two days ahead, which lets them marinate a bit. Add the fruit and feta just before serving. All in all, a far cry from “meh.” Katie Workman has written two cookbooks focused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dinner Solved!” and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” From The Associated Press

SO FRESH!

Peel the clementines and cut each segment in half crosswise. Cut the cooled beans in half cross-wise. In a small bowl or container, combine the olive oil, vinegar, shallots, mustard, thyme, salt, and pepper. Whisk or shake to combine.

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Place the beans and orange segments in a large bowl and drizzle the dressing over them. Toss to combine thoroughly. Add 1/2 cup of the feta and toss again gently to combine, then sprinkle the rest of the feta on top. Serve at room temperature or chilled.

60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com

Recipe by Katie Workman

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE

For Healthy, Forgiving Cooking, Try a Foil Packet in the Oven By Melissa d’Arabian Social media tells me that in part of the country, kids are already in back-to-school mode. And so we are teetering between the lazy days of summer and the impending promise of crisp cool air, long sleeves, and the desire to fire down the grill and turn on the oven instead. This is the perfect time to talk about one of my favorite shoulder-season cooking strategies: the foil pack! Place thinly sliced veggies with a little marinade or vinaigrette (even storebought will work) in a large sheet of heavyduty aluminum foil and fold shut into a packet, pinching the edges, and this handy little guy will be equally delicious whether cooked on the grill if you have a hot fall day, or in the oven, if you’re already in pumpkin latte weather. Add some fish or chicken, and you’ll have a full meal, all packaged and pretty in individual servings, a presentation which thrills dinner party guests and kiddos alike. Foil packet cooking is healthy—little fat is needed to get tender, flavorful results. And packet-cookery is incredibly forgiving— you (almost) can’t overcook a foil packet. A few minutes extra in the oven won’t ruin packetfish like it would dry out a fillet cooked on the stovetop, grill, or even just roasted directly in the oven. As a mom of four, I appreciate that kind of weeknight-meal flexibility. Try my foil-pack fish tacos to master some of the basics, like layering the ingredients in order of how quickly they cook—the bottom will cook more quickly since it will be touching a direct heat source. Fish tacos are an excellent summertime favorite to take with us into colder weather. I love using Alaskan cod because not only is it full of healthy fats (which feed my brain and heart and make me feel full), but it’s available frozen year-round. And these packets do great with frozen fish—no need to thaw before making. Happy fall indeed. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press

at el Pote

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria

RECIPE

Rich Paella Valenciana

FOIL-PACKET FISH TACOS

Fresh Lobster Bisque

Prep & Cooking Time: 30 minutes Servings: 4 • • • • • • • • •

Juice of 1 lime, about 2 tablespoons 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 teaspoon chili powder 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon granulated garlic 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt 4 fillets of Alaskan cod, frozen, about 4–5 ounces each 1 yellow onion, sliced thinly (about 2 cups) 2 sweet peppers (red, yellow, or orange), liced thinly (about 2 cups total)

For the Spicy Slaw Topping • 2 cups chopped or sliced cabbage • 1/4 cup plain Greek lowfat yogurt • 1 tablespoon mayonnaise • 1/2 teaspoon chipotle chili powder • 1 tablespoon lime juice • 1 chopped green onion • 1/4 cup chopped cilantro • Chopped tomatoes (optional) • Salt and pepper

Juicy Lamb Chops

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

• 8 corn tortillas, for serving • Cubed avocado, for topping

DIRECTIONS Heat oven to 400 F. In a large bowl, mix together the lime juice, olive oil, chili powder, cumin, and granulated garlic. Cut four 12-inch-by-12-inch pieces of heavy duty foil. Dip the fish into the marinade and set aside. Toss the onion and peppers in the marinade to coat, and divide among the foil squares. Place the fish on top of the onions and peppers. Then toss the tomatoes into the marinade and place them on top of the fish, along with any remaining marinade. Close the foil up into packets, crimping the edges together. Place on a baking sheet and bake until fish is cooked through and vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes. (Subtract 10 minutes if using fresh fish.) Meanwhile, mix together all the ingredients for the spicy slaw topping. Serve one foil packet per person, along with corn tortillas, slaw for topping, and avocado if desired.

Colin Hagendorf, a New York native, sampled every slice of pizza in Manhattan for his blog. All 375 of them.

Pizza Suprema was voted the best.

Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian MELISSA D’ARABIAN VIA AP

*

Foil packets do great with frozen fish—no need to thaw before making.

AS SEEN ON: The Rachael Ray Show, The Today Show, The Wall Street Journal, and Daily News. Come and try for yourself. We are just beside Madison Square Garden. Since 1964.

Pizza Suprema 413 8th Ave. New York, NY 10001 (212) 594-8939

Awarded One of the 10

BEST PIZZAS IN NYC

Diagonally across from Madison Square Garden and Penn Station. *Slice Harvester 2011, selected for the plain slice.


D10

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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY CRYSTAL SHI/EPOCH TIMES

IOWA

A Taste of America’s Heartland Iowa continued from D3 La Quercia’s award-winning cured meats, which now grace both restaurant menus and grocery shelves nationwide, start with Iowaand Missouri-raised pigs. At the company plant in Norwalk, Eckhouse—wearing a shirt that reads “Life, liberty, and the prosciutto of happiness”—walks me between racks and racks of curing meat and talks at length about the farms and farmers behind each hanging ham. Community support keeps Eckhouse going, but his inspiration from the start was the land itself. “We have one of the most fertile places on the globe,” he said. “So we

Pork tenderloin sandwich at Goldie’s Ice Cream Shoppe (left) and the Spanish Toastie at The Cheese Shop of Des Moines (right).

thought we should make something great here. We should show that we honor this resource.” He and his wife, Kathy, started La Quercia as a way of sharing their appreciation for Iowa and its incredible land. “When you eat something delicious, you feel connected to where it came from, and you feel grateful,” Eckhouse said. “That became our purpose: how we were going to achieve this mission of connecting people back to this beauty and bounty that we have here.” In the end, much of it comes down to this immense pride in Iowa and what it has to offer. Back at The Cheese Shop, McClavy’s philosophy is simple. “We have what we think is some of the best cheese in the world and some of the best wine in the world,” he said. “Why would we want to serve not the best food in the world?”

HoQ

Where to Eat in Iowa Eating in Iowa goes far beyond pork tenderloin and sweet corn—though both are outstanding in their own right and shouldn’t be missed. From farm-fresh veggies to steaks the size of your head, the state has a motley of delicious offerings to satisfy any foodie.

Local food meets global flavors at HoQ, which prides itself on sourcing 90 percent of its ingredients from Iowa farms. These ingredients are then spun into diverse and delicious dishes like organic pea and lentil Falafel ($9) with yogurt sauce; potato-crusted Venetian Style Liver ($10) with organic onion, raisin, bacon, and green beans; and the savory Flan ($9) with local peas, goat cheese, carrot dressing, and pea shoots. For entrees, you can’t go wrong with the Grass-fed Steak (market price), but don’t discount the Free-Range Chicken ($28) either—it’s beautifully tender and juicy, with a perfectly crispy skin. If you can’t make it in for a meal, catch the restaurant’s tent at the Downtown Des Moines Farmers’ Market, for a naan breakfast wrap made with 100 percent Iowan ingredients. 303 E. Fifth St. Des Moines HoQTable.com

Rube’s Steakhouse

Fruit Crepe with Sesame Kale Salad and seasonal Peach Cobbler Coffee Cake.

A haven for meat-lovers, Rube’s Steakhouse offers a unique grill-your-own experience for the ultimate Iowa steak. The steakhouse has everything from flavorful bone-in ribeye to tender, bacon-wrapped filet mignon, all sourced from local family farms. If you’re a serious carnivore, you can try your hand (or stomach) at the Belly Buster Top Sirloin ($59.95): a three-pound monster that’ll earn you a free T-shirt if you finish. Customers pick out their cuts of choice at the meat counter— along with any sides, from shrimp skewers to veggie skillets—then take them to a huge

communal grill to cook exactly to their liking. Seasoned grill masters will rejoice, but even if you’re less confident in your skills, not to worry—the staff are happy to give you tips and pointers. At the grill, there’s plenty of butter, Texas toast, and good conversation to go around.

118 Elm St. Montour 3309 Ute Ave. Waukee RubesSteaks.com

The Cheese Shop of Des Moines

Le Jardin

Menlo Cafe

A cheese counter and cafe rolled into one, The Cheese Shop is a local lunch favorite. The aroma of melting cheese wafts through the room, legs of prosciutto hang from the walls, bottles of wine stock the shelves to the ceiling, and the staff members are warm and perpetually smiling. For lunch, try any of the Toasties ($8– $12), amped-up grilled cheese sandwiches with your choice of add-ins from salty La Quercia prosciutto to fragrant Valencia almond butter, or the killer Cast-Iron Mac & Cheese ($10). Be sure to pick up a chunk of cheese—the shop offers Iowan to international varieties—and a jar of housemade pickles on your way out.

Tag Grandgeorge, owner and chef of this cozy French bistro, sources his ingredients from the gardens of friends, family, and local farmers and producers. His philosophy of local, sustainable eating is taken straight from his childhood: “It’s just the way I grew up,” he said. “We would always have a huge family garden; all my aunts and uncles would participate, and my grandpa and grandma. It was just kind of a way of life, growing up in Iowa.” Stop in for classic omelettes, sweet and savory crepes, or an array of French-inspired entrees for dinner or weekend brunch.

At this homey cafe in the small town of Menlo, 40 minutes west of Des Moines, you’ll find old-fashioned comfort food and a sweet taste of Iowan hospitality. Here, customers and waitresses know each other on a first name basis. Farmers pop in for lunch, still dusty from the fields, and chow down on patty melts, tenderloin sandwiches, and other classic American eats between hearty laughter and conversation. For your sweet tooth, come in on a Saturday for their famous homemade pies, from sweet rhubarb to fluffy chocolate silk, all served in hefty slabs.

2815 Beaver Ave., Suite 101 Des Moines LeJardinDSM.com

502 Sherman St. Menlo ept.ms/MenloCafe

833 42nd St., Suite B Des Moines TheCheeseShopDSM.com

Chilled Cucumber with blueberries, coriander, and avocado cream.

Homemade Chocolate Silk Pie topped with Cool Whip and chocolate shavings.

Bison Made Right burger with beet fries. 2712 Beaver Ave., Des Moines Facebook.com/ReedsHollow

Reed’s Hollow

Proof

Treat your tastebuds to an adventure at Reed’s Hollow, where culinary wizard Zach Gutweiler experiments with bold flavors and unexpected combinations. The menu is frequently updated, with choices like the umami-packed Brussels Sprouts ($6), which swim in a pungent caramelized fish sauce, or the refreshing Chilled Cucumber ($8), petaled around sweet blueberries in a foamy avocado cream. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the Orange Chicken ($13), slow-cooked chicken gizzards with asparagus, sushi rice crisps, orange carrot glaze, and egg custard; or the Bison Made Right ($16)—a nod to Iowa’s iconic loose-meat Maid-Rite sandwich—with savorysweet larb (Lao meat salad), fried carrots, and Thai herbs on buttery challah. The burger is served with crispy and addictive beet fries that put conventional french fries to shame. For more creative concoctions, don’t miss Taco Tuesdays—on Wednesdays, naturally.

Three-time James Beard Foundation semifinalist Sean Wilson helms the kitchen at Proof, transforming local ingredients into gorgeous and imaginative Mediterraneaninspired dishes. An ethereal beet-balsamic marshmallow is the centerpiece of the Roasted Beet Salad ($12), surrounded by an artful arrangement of whipped chèvre and tender greens, while pungent morsels of lamb and onion take the spotlight in the Preserved Lamb ($17), piled until overflowing in a flaky puff pastry basket. The menu changes often, but you really can’t go wrong with any dish. 1301 Locust St., Suite C Des Moines ProofRestaurant.com


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com TOURISM WHISTLER/MIKE CRANE

Alta Lake with Whistler and Blackcomb mountains in the summer.

Whistler in Summer By Mariellen Ward WHISTLER, Canada—Suddenly, the hulking mountain looked like a lair for mythical winged creatures. The misty blue islands seemed to be floating freely in the placid, gray waters. Huge boulders were no longer just rocks, but the remnants of a battle between giants. And the highway I was traveling on, the famous Sea-to-Sky that runs between Vancouver and Whistler in Canada, bore traces of an ancient trade route. This appropriately named roadway wends its way along the dramatic coastline of British Columbia as it ascends into the Coast Mountains. The views around each curve are more stunning than the last, making the journey almost as rewarding as the destination. And it is a journey worth taking for many reasons. Whistler’s reputation as one of the world’s top-ranked ski destinations is beyond question. Many of the 2010 Winter Olympics events were held here, and it’s consistently ranked the number one mountain resort in North America. But I visited in summer, which draws even more tourists and recreation enthusiasts. Hiking, wildlife viewing, mountain biking, relaxing, and dining are some of the main draws. The name Whistler comes from the sound a hoary marmot makes. Apparently, hoary marmots whistle. Whistler is not only surrounded by spectacular mountain scenery, it is spectacularly clean and well-maintained. When I got off the bus in the center of the small town, another shuttle bus was waiting there to take me to the Four Seasons Hotel. The driver of the big bus smiled at me as I got off, and the driver of the shuttle bus smiled at me as I got on. After the gorgeous scenery, the second thing I noticed about Whistler is that everyone smiles. A lot. The Four Seasons is at the far edge of town, at the base of Blackcomb Mountain, and it’s a spectacular destination on its own. A handsome wood-and-stone structure, it is the top-rated luxury resort in town. It elegantly captures the mountain resort look and feel with native art and other artifacts on display. Peak-to-Peak Gondola Ride I was in Whistler for two specific reasons: the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre and the Peak-to-Peak gondola ride from Whistler Mountain to Blackcomb Mountain. So, after unpacking and enjoying the views from my suite, I headed for the center of Whistler village

and the gondola ride up to the top of Whistler Mountain. I am not a skier, so I was really surprised by the height of Whistler Mountain and the extensive infrastructure that supports the sport. Standing at the top, by the Olympic rings, it was chilly and brisk even on a warm June day. You definitely need a warm jacket for this trip. Riding the Peak-to-Peak gondola to the top of Blackcomb Mountain, it felt thrilling to be suspended from a cable between two mountains, with views in every direction, from the valley floor to the village of Whistler, to the mountain range in the distance. Even when you are at the lowest point between the mountains, you are still higher than the height of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. On either side, there are cafes, shops, and indoor and outdoor seating. You can easily make the Peak-to-Peak trip a fun half-day experience that the entire family will enjoy. Soaking in the waters of Scandinave Spa was another special experience. I spent a couple of hours at dusk in the outdoor pools, set in an evergreen forest on the outskirts of Whistler. Scandinave Spa combines two things I love: nature and wellness. Alternating between hot and cold water, a common treatment from hydrotherapy, is very relaxing, and by the end of my time there, I was in a blissful state.

Experience Firsthand the Romance of the Korean Dynasty South Korean top chef Sunkyu Lee cooks authentic Korean royal court cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd floors.

Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre There are so many good reasons to visit the Squamish Lil’wat Cultural Centre, which showcases the aboriginal history, culture, art, and spirituality of this region. Whistler—the mountain and surrounding area—is the borderland between the Squamish and Lil’wat First Nations, and the land historically belonged to both, which is why the museum and cultural center was built here. The stunning, glass-fronted building houses exhibitions, artifacts, a cafe that serves nativeinspired foods, and a store that sells locally made art and crafts. The grounds feature walking trails and traditional dwellings, including a longhouse, where you can try your hand at making a cedar bracelet. The building of the center solved a land dispute between the Squamish and Lil’wat; it has provided training, skill development, and employment opportunities for the youth, and it has preserved the cultural heritage of two of Canada’s First Nations. Read the full article at tiny.cc/iqm3by Mariellen Ward is a travel writer and publisher of adventure travel blog BreatheDreamGo.com SCANDINAVE SPA/CHAD CHOMLACK

TOURISM WHISTLER/MIKE CRANE

Soaking up the sun at Scandinave Spa.

Horseback riding in the Callaghan Valley with Canadian Wilderness Adventures.

212-594-4963

10 W. 32 St., New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreaBBQ.com Open 24 hours


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August 19–25, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY JERRY HARMER/AP

Sea Beet Leaves and Elderflower Learning to Forage for Food

James Feaver, a foraging guide, leads Fonthip Boonmak and her son, Jimmy Harmer, through a high meadow in the county of Dorset, southwest England, in search of wild edibles.

By Jerry Harmer

T

Venture Into Thailand’s

Spicy Northeast

at

OLLER PORCORUM, England—“This,” said our guide James Feaver, “is our main course.” We were standing in front of a dung heap in a high meadow in the English countryside. Pushing up out of the ooze was a low-growing weed. He bent down and plucked a sprig. “Fat hen. Humans have eaten it for thousands of years. We’re going to need a lot of it.” After a glance among us, my family and I set about picking with an approximation of gusto. When you are foraging for your food, you can’t be too squeamish about little things like cow dung beneath your fingers. I have long been fascinated with the idea of living off the land, finding sustenance among the wild plants that teem in hedges and fields. So a week’s holiday in Dorset, in southwest England—a county bursting with picture-book countryside—gave me the chance to see how abundant nature’s larder really is. Foraging is increasingly popular in the U.K. and there are many teachers to choose from. On a recommendation, I contacted Hedgerow Harvest and booked a half-day course for me, my partner Fon, and our 7-year-old son, Jimmy. On a classic English summer’s day—meaning we experienced all weather conditions in one afternoon—we met up with Feaver, who gave up office work for professional foraging eight years ago. He now runs courses in south and southwest England, but mostly in Dorset, his adopted home. We met him in the village of Toller Porcorum, donned rubber boots and light waterproof jackets, and set off in search of wild provender. We spent the next few hours walking through lanes hedged in with soaring banks, down tracks drenched in birdsong, beside clear streams, and across uncut meadows in search of ingredients for a three-course meal. If, like me, you can’t tell wild sorrel from a blade of grass, this quickly becomes daunting. But Feaver has gimlet eyes and an encyclopedic knowledge of the edible. High in a hedgerow, a spray of tiny white flowers stood proud in the foliage. He hooked it with his hazel stick, pulled it down to picking height, and inhaled. “The smell of summer,” he said. For centuries, country-folk have used the

So far so idyllic, but this Arcadia comes with thorns.

James Feaver, a foraging guide, holds a spray of elderflowers.

ESANATION Authentic Thai cuisine sure to delight your adventurous senses!

• 14 types of unbelievable Som Tum (papaya salad). • Gang Om soup that pulls a straight punch to the throat. • Whole Cornish hen, fried to a golden crispiness, with the most addictive dipping sauce. • Yentafo Noodle soup, an authentic standout.

Baked pesto dish made from a plant called fat hen, with a serving of the leaves on the side.

fragrant elderflower to add a zesty flavor to food and drink. Now it would bring its zing to our dessert. We plucked head after head. I lifted up Jimmy so he could join the harvest. In quick order we found red currants, wild mint and tiny, sweet wild strawberries. The wicker basket James provided—a nice touch— began to fill. So far so idyllic, but this Arcadia comes with thorns. Of the many rules of foraging, the most important is this: Don’t eat anything unless you are 100 percent certain you know what it is. Some edible plants look uncannily like ones that are deadly. For example, cow parsley goes well in salads but is easily mistaken for something you wouldn’t want near your dinner plate: hemlock. Other rules include only taking sustainably, not uprooting anything (it’s illegal), and not picking from ground-hugging plants near footpaths “where dogs can wee on them.” Time was getting on. From Toller Porcorum, we drove down steep, narrow lanes to a nearby beach. Here you can see the stunning coastline sweep in an arc from Portland in Dorset right into neighboring East Devon. A trove of fossils has earned it UNESCO World Heritage status and the name Jurassic Coast. But we weren’t there for beauty or geology. We were there for sea beet leaves, a close relative of garden spinach that grows in low belts along the pebbly foreshore. More free food, right at our feet. But don’t go thinking you can kiss supermarkets goodbye just because your eyes have been opened. That’s not the idea of the course. “Foraging isn’t really about survival,” Feaver had said at the start. “It’s about taking the best of the wild and adding it to conventional ingredients to make great-tasting food.” Great tasting? We’d be the judges of that. Back at our holiday cottage, Feaver supervised the preparation of the feast: for starters, sea beet soup; for the main course, fat hen pesto bake, with more fat hen as a side dish; to finish, elderflower and gooseberry fool, garnished with wild strawberries. It was a revelation, especially the sea beet soup, which was one of the most delicious soups I have ever had: rich, velvety, and homey, like swallowing a big bowl of contentment. It had been a long day. We’d started at 1:30 p.m. and the last spoon didn’t scrape its empty bowl till 9 p.m. As he packed away his stick, basket, and scissors, Feaver said that after doing the course, “people look at the countryside with different eyes.” Yes, I thought. With eyes like dinner plates. IF YOU GO... Hedgerow Harvest: Our course with James Feaver cost 150 pounds (about $198) for two adults and a child. Price varies by number of people and itinerary. Hedgerow-Harvest.com Association of Foragers: Listed by region at Foragers-Association.org.uk From The Associated Press

Chef Wanlapha Techama was the sous chef responsible for Esan specialties at Queens restaurant Zabb Elee when it received a Michelin star last year.

ESANATION 750 9th Avenue • New York, NY 10019 (btw. 50th & 51st streets) 212-315-0555 • esanation.com

Gathering edible sea beet leaves near southern England’s Jurassic Coast.

Bowls of velvety green soup made from sea beet leaves.


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