Epoch Taste 8-26-2016 by Epoch Taste

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES (BEACH); LUBA V NEL/SHUTTERSTOCK (ILLUSTRATION)

D1 Aug. 26–Sept. 1, 2016

The Spirit of Summer, Kaiseki-Style on D7

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SURF & SAND SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Will Skudin, a pro surfer ranked fifth in the world, runs Skudin Surf school with his brother Cliff in the Rockaways and in Long Beach.

For summer’s last hurrah, head to the Rockaways By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

efore the Hamptons, there were the Rockaways. In the 19th century, before public transportation arrived, the Queens peninsula was a playground for the rich.

Margherita Pizza from Slice of Whit (C) with (clockwise from top) a Coney Dog with brisket chili, pickles, and Coney Fries from Ed & Bev’s, and coconut water from ByTheBeach. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Summertime and the livin' is easy.

These days, there are fancy condos and newer developments interspersed with public housing. Planes pass overhead at short intervals, revealing the area’s close proximity to JFK Airport. At dusk, you can see their lights, a moving constellation of four at a time. Their sound, camouflaged only partly by the crash of the waves, doesn’t seem to distract anyone.

See Rockaways on D2

Enjoying beers by the water.

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

SURF & SAND

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Taking in the view from the boardwalk at Jacob Riis Park.

Rockaways continued from D1 On the beaches, there’s a spectrum of skin colors in gradations of beige, red (ouch), and brown, involved in the business of what you do at the beach—playing chess or volleyball, or swimming, splattering, and sun soaking. This being a slice of New York City, the people-watching is unequaled. On the boardwalk at Beach 97, a man rides a bike, with a fishing pole propped high. A group walks by, moving to the beats playing on their boom box. A drum circle watches them go by, until someone says, “Let’s go off that beat!” and launches into a new rhythm. Maria Curcio, who has lived in the Rockaways since 2001 and whose apartment overlooks the boardwalk, takes photos of the drum circle. The sound of their drums reaches her living room and she loves to listen. “It’s intoxicating,” she said. Her phone is full of photos of the sea- and cloudscape. “We get the best sunrises and sunsets,” she said. There may be tons of people milling around on summer weekends, but she doesn’t mind. “You feel like you’re in a resort.”

Nothing beats coconut water from ByTheBeach for hydration.

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

A New Boom The Rockaways, built on a sandbar jutting out into Jamaica Bay, have boomed in the aftermath of 2012’s Hurricane Sandy, which wreaked havoc, destroying homes and businesses. That boom doesn’t seem to be stopping. This summer, the final stretch of the boardwalk, which had been damaged by the storm, was completed. Businesses continue to pop up, such as the wine shop Ship to Shore and the indoor Rockaway Beach Golf Club. New eateries include Brothers, which opened at Beach 106 with a focus on healthy dishes; Santa Salsa, which made its move from roving Venezuelan food truck to brick-and-mortar; and the Brazil-

A berry and cucumber lime shaved ice from Clean Shave at Riis Park Beach Bazaar.

ian spot Beach Bistro 96. This summer, Riis Park Beach Bazaar is in its second year, a milelong stretch of food and shopping concessions. There seems to be no shortage of places to eat and drink. Private bus services are bringing in young crowds for day trips from points west—from the Lower East Side, Williamsburg, Bushwick, and Astoria. Will Skudin, currently ranked No. 5 surfer in the world, runs local surfing school Skudin Surf with his brother Cliff. He spent part of his childhood growing up between Long Beach and the Rockaways. “All we knew was surfing,” he said. “It wasn’t until I started traveling and getting older that I realized surfing is not really a thing in New York.” He remembers standing at the beach eight years ago, when their surfing school was getting started. It was July, 90 degrees out, and there’d be “literally 25 people as far as the eye can see,” he recalled. There were needles and plastic bottles. It was, in his words, “gnarly.” Now, “grimy, grungy places are getting redone,” bringing in a new crowd—from young Manhattan commuters to ex-Brooklyn dwellers. “People call it hipster,” he said, “but you know, I like the hipsters because after Sandy, we started calling them ‘helpsters,’ because they came in the hundreds.” Skudin says anytime he does a fundraiser or a nonprofit outing, they’re the ones participating. “Over time, you start to realize who’s here to take and who’s here to be part of the community,” he said. A Community of Individuals In far-off, remote places, you often find people with a strong streak of independence. Restaurateur Whitney Aycock’s been called a “pizza nazi” for laying down strict rules at his

popular pizzeria, Whit’s End. His menu is full of attitude and peppered with choice expletives. In a section at the bottom called “some of our many faults,” some of the admonitions read: “We don’t know what everything pizza is,” “everything we touch has gluten on it,” and “we don’t offer slices EVER!!!” They are all sentiments a Neapolitan could get behind. All of that doesn’t detract from its reputation as a must-try spot; it offers some of the best pies in New York City. This summer Aycock, who moved to the Rockaways about 11 years ago, opened Slice of Whit at the concessions at the Riis Park Beach Bazaar (despite the name, don’t expect slices), and more recently a little spot called Ole Man Chill, in a location removed from the main action, right on the water. When we meet Aycock, he’s dripping wet— not from sweating and slaving in the heat of the kitchen, but from a refreshing saltwater dip. His pet Renzo, a big, gentle black dog, greets him. While Aycock is still wet, someone updates him: “I just threw 17 sausages on the grill.” There’s no menu to be spotted at Ole Man Chill, and it changes according to what Aycock has got cooking that day. Sometimes bands play. The lifestyle is a far cry from his old days in Manhattan. In the mornings, the restaurant becomes Rockaway Beach Bakery, run by pastry chef Tracy Obolsky (formerly of Cookshop and North End Grill). She moved to the Rockaways a few years ago from Fort Greene, Brooklyn, when the draw of beach, surf, and sand worked their magic on her. Obolsky and Aycock don’t publicize their location, though if you follow them on Instagram, you may find out where they are. It’s easy to see why they’re intent on this shaded oasis not being mobbed. With a deck with water views, it’s got a lovable quirkiness

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Will Skudin asks children at Skudin Surf Kids’ Surf Camp about their goals. The first two have Olympic aspirations. “Does anyone, maybe not have Olympics-related goal?” he asks. One boy says, “to be a good man.”

Ed Stofega, who runs Aloha NYC Surf School, catches a wave. Off the beach you might find him at Rockaway Beach Inn having beers or having Spanish food at La Playa.

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

Andrew Field’s fish tacos at Tacoway Beach, located at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club. CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

Whitney Aycock, of Whit’s End pizza fame, and Tracy Obolsky. Obolsky made the move from Fort Greene to the Rockaways a couple of years ago; she recently opened Rockaway Beach Bakery. Sunset views from Thai Rock, overlooking Jamaica Bay and Cross Bay Veterans Memorial Bridge. CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

Savoring the Rockaways By Annie Wu & Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff In the Rockaways, you can find a plethora of cuisines, reflective of New York’s diversity. From classic beach fare to Uzbek food, we’ve got you covered.

At Riis Park Beach Bazaar

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Slice of Whit Whitney Aycock’s pizzas are a Rockaways favorite. The Neapolitan- style, wood-fired pies have a soft, pliable crust that holds scrumptious toppings. The Margherita pie, for example, is a combination of sweet tomatoes tinged with a hint of spice, fior di latte, and charred basil ($11). His stand at the Riis Park Beach Bazaar and his brick-and-mortar, Whit’s End, on Rockaway Beach Boulevard are often packed with hungry patrons. WhitsEndNYC.com Ed & Bev’s For classic beach fare done right, head to Ed & Bev’s. Their Detroit-style Coney dogs are everything you’d want on a bun: hot dog, brisket chili, mustard, and chopped onions ($6.50). Pair that with the Coney Fries, a finger-licking mix of fries, cheese, chili, and chopped onions ($7.50). EdAndBevs.com

Be prepared for waits on the weekends at the popular Rockaway Beach Surf Club.

ByTheBeach All that sun will probably make you dehydrated. Refresh yourself with a young Thai coconut from ByTheBeach ($6), a far more nutritious drink than sugary sodas or juices. When you’re done sipping, you can nibble on the bits of coconut meat too. ByTheBeach.co

Salmon kebab with rice and salad from Uma’s at the concessions at Beach 97. Uma’s, which serves Uzbek food, also has a brick-and-mortar location a few block away.

Rockaway Beach Surf Club You can still spot the A train just overhead, but in all other regards, the Rockaway Beach Surf Club feels far removed from New York. Inside, surfboards line the walls and ceiling; and outside, the communal tables, colorful decor, and margaritas invite diners to while away the afternoon. The place gets packed on weekends, with lines forming at Andrew Field’s pop-up Tacoway Beach in the backyard. The fish tacos ($3.50) are an excellent combination of crisp battered fish and red cabbage slaw. RockawayBeachSurfClub.com

See Foodie’s Rockaways on D9 TI

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

When Clifton Dunn, an actor from San Diego, first moved to New York, he lived in Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn, where he said he “was losing his mind just being surrounded by concrete.” He high-tailed it to the Rockaways, where he could live by the ocean, about six years ago. There weren’t many options for eating out back then. “There’s probably been quadruple the amount of businesses opened up since I’ve moved here,” he said. Here are some of his favorite places: “My favorite place is Uma’s. I used to work there. It’s amazing; it’s just a unique vibe because it’s Uzbek food. The food is great postsurf. It’s really filling, but they also have a lot of vegetarian and vegan options. They always play surfing on the projector. ... “[Another is] kind of a secret spot: Goody’s, which is a West Indian place. Oh my gosh, that place is amazing. They have awesome oxtail, jerk chicken, BBQ chicken. We do takeout and go to the beach. They’re fantastic, I highly recommend them. ... “A lot of people go to the [Rockaway Beach] Surf Club; a lot of the younger crowd from Brooklyn and Manhattan go there. ... “Some of the best chicken I’ve had is at Chicks to Go, a Peruvian place.”

Clifton Dunn Ocean manager at Skudin Surf and actor

Clean Shave More slushie than icy treat, Clean Shave’s shaved ice is drizzled with syrups made in-house from cane sugar and organic, local, non-GMO fruit and vegetables ($4 for small, $6 for large). The result is a delicately sweet drink that cools you down quickly. CleanShaveIce.com For more eateries at the Riis Park Beach Bazaar, visit RiisParkBeachBazaar.com

Where the Surfers Are

and chill vibe that hipsters would flock to in a minute. Wooden wine cases have been turned into planters holding rosemary, thyme, and other herbs. Stalks of lemongrass grow in a repurposed toilet. There’s an old school phone booth that might be turned into a shower. Even though Ole Man Chill/Rockaway Beach Bakery seems to be in the middle of nowhere, there is, of course, a loyal clientele made up of residents who live in the neighborhood. Kelly McMahon, who moved to the Rockaways from Georgia six years ago, is one local who calls it “a game-changer.” “I have lived here and had not seen another living soul for two years, every single morning,” she said. “[Now] it’s so nice to just be able to go and have a coffee and go start your day, especially because it can be so isolating out here.” McMahon, with Michelle Cashen, runs the Rockaway Buying Club, which every two weeks distributes to residents farm-fresh produce and meat from a collective of farms, as well as locally produced items such as kombucha and Obolsky’s cookies. “It’s not competitive,” she said of the restaurant scene, “because there’s nothing to be competitive with. People are really encouraging and not selfish.” She’s had the support of local restaurateurs who have bought her unsold produce. Obolsky has bought excess blueberries, and Aycock might ask himself what he’ll do with a pound of thyme, “but he buys it,” McMahon said. “People who have started successful businesses, like Whit, they’re very mindful of paying it forward and using what they’ve worked really hard for to build a bigger network of businesses that employ more people, that make the community better and stronger. It’s very hand-helping-hand within the community,” she said.

Y AL

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF NEW YORK COFFEE FESTIVAL

THE BREAKFESTIVAL Cookout NYC and the breakfast-focused blog Extra Crispy are hosting a Labor Day weekend festival dedicated to breakfast. New York City restaurants like Pies-N-Thighs, Inday, PappaRich, Kossar’s Bagels and Bialys, and Butter & Scotch will gather and showcase their best breakfast dishes. Cocktails, cider, and beer will also be available. Attendees may join in eating contests while the Hudson Horns provide entertainment. $45 per person.

stuff to eat and drink around nyc

COURTESY OF CENTER BAR

Saturday, Sept. 4 & Sunday, Sept. 5 Stuyvesant Cove Park East 23rd Street & East River CookoutNYC.com

COURTESY OF NEW YORK COFFEE FESTIVAL

JOY OF SAKE This epic sake tasting festival will feature more than 400 different sakes, many not available in the United States. Japanese restaurants around the city such as Sushi Nakazawa, O Ya, Morimoto, 15 East Restaurant, EN Japanese Brasserie, and Sakagura will provide food pairings. SakaMai and Noreetuh will be serving fresh poke bowls from a poke bar. $95 per person.

The Poet’s Passion cocktail.

DOROTHY PARKER COCKTAILS AT CENTER BAR To celebrate the birthday of early-20th-century writer Dorothy Parker, Center Bar is serving a special cocktail menu, with all the drinks created by top female mixologists and featuring New York Distilling Company’s Dorothy Parker Gin. The drinks include the Know-It-All with gin, grapefruit juice, lime juice, Campari, Combier Liqueur de Rose, and saffron bitters; Poet’s Passion with gin, peach liqueur, passion fruit, lime, and peach bitters; and Close Harmony with gin, blanc and dry vermouth, Dolin Véritable Génépy des Alpes Liqueur, and lavender bitters. Through Sunday, Aug. 28 Center Bar 10 Columbus Circle HeresToDorothy.com

Friday, Sept. 16 6:30 p.m.–9:30 p.m. Metropolitan Pavilion 125 W. 18th St. JoyOfSake.com COURTESY OF JOY OF SAKE

Exploring coffee at last year’s New York Coffee Festival.

NEW YORK COFFEE FESTIVAL This two-day celebration of all things coffee will include an exhibit of over 70 different coffee vendors, include Devoción, Ally Coffee, Califia Farms, Nobletree Coffee, Toby’s Estate, and more. Visitors may enjoy coffee tastings, a latte art workshop, coffee-infused cocktails, demonstrations from baristas, live music, and savory bites from New York eateries. $20 to $60 per person. Saturday, Sept. 17 & Sunday, Sept. 18 69th Regiment Armory Lexington Avenue & 26th Street NewYorkCoffeeFestival.com

ALLISON BROWN

HAUTE PRIVATE EVENTS

Sunny Side Up dish by Chef Lovely. ALLISON BROWN

There are private events in Manhattan, and then there are private events at Cava Nerai. Head downstairs to our new romantic stone wine cellar— born from the idea to provide you with the finest setting possible for private events. Whether you’re having a business meeting with partners, entertaining those special clients, or throwing the perfect baby shower, Cava Nerai has the customizable space you need—and an excellent wine selection sure to make the occasion memorable.

55 E 55th St. New York, NY 10022 NeraiNYC.com

212.759.5554

BLACK CHEF SERIES In this Monday chef series ending Sept. 19, notable African-American chefs will prepare a meal for an intimate group of diners. A portion of the proceeds will benefit City Harvest, dedicated to collecting excess food from restaurants, grocers, bakeries, manufacturers, and farms and delivering it to the hungry. The next dinner features the cooking of chefs Chris Scott and Kwame Williams. $65 per person. Through Monday, Sept. 19 6:30 p.m. Blujeen 2143 Fredrick Douglass Blvd. BlackChefSeries.com

(L–R) Chefs Lance Knowling, Lexi Dilligard, Russell Jackson, Max Hardy, and actress Amirah Vann.

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF KINGSLEY

COURTESY OF MONARCH ROOFTOP

BUILD-YOUR-OWN BAR AT KINGSLEY For brunch, new American restaurant Kingsley has launched a “build your own bloody mary and maria” bar. Starting with a base of housemade tomato juice, diners may choose from toppings and garnishes including bacon strips, sausages, pretzels, cheeses, herbs, vegetables, and more. $14. Saturdays & Sundays Noon–4 p.m. Kingsley 190 Avenue B KingsleyNYC.com

BOOZY CANDIES AT MONARCH Embrace your inner child with liquor-infused candies at Monarch in Midtown. Choose from Tipsy Teddy Bears, gummy bears steeped in champagne or rosé; Rummy Worms, gummy worms soaked in rum; and Fish Out of Water, Swedish Fish bathed in vodka in blue jello shots. Monarch 71 W. 35th St. AddisonGroupNYC.com

Kingsley’s Bloody Mary.

Rummy Worms.

COURTESY OF AGERN

COURTESY OF LA NEWYORKINA

FORAGING TOURS WITH NORDIC RESTAURANT AGERN Foraging in the wild for fresh, local ingredients is a well-known element of Nordic cuisine. Agern’s chef de cuisine Joseph Yardley is now leading monthly public tours around the tri-state area to hunt for edibles on beaches, forests, and meadows, after which he will prepare a meal for the group to eat onsite. On Sept. 11, the tour will forage along the beach at Sandy Hook. Through November ept.ms/2bO882c

Foraging for plants.

COURTESY OF MAMO

NEW MENU AT MAMO

Mango Chile Paleta from La Newyorkina.

The SoHo southern Italian restaurant is serving a slate of new late summer dishes, including Wild Sea Bass with fingerling potatoes, Stuffed Rabbit Rolls with spinach and foie gras, and new desserts like Sorbetto al Limone and Mousse al Cioccolato. New summer cocktails include housemade Limoncello; the Amorena, with Glenmorangie Single Malt Whisky, basil, cherry liqueur, and Anisette liqueur; and the Valentina, with Nolet’s Dry Gin, lemon juice, egg white, lavender bitters, and Velvet Falernum.

SWEET SEPTEMBER Throughout the month of September, over 20 restaurants, bakeries, and dessert shops will serve special desserts to benefit Citymeals on Wheels. The sweet treats include chocolate chip cookies at Jacques Torres Chocolate, mango chile Mexican ice pops at La Newyorkina, and a sticky date cake with salted crème fraîche gelato at Colonie.

Mamo 323 West Broadway MamoNYC.com

Participating locations Citymeals.org/sweetseptember

Saffron risotto with osso buco.

ASIA COLADNER

夏のメニュー

SUMMER PLATES AT DONGURI A sampling of our summer menu

Sweet Corn Tempura Grilled Black Cod Marinated with White Miso Traditional Clear Soup Mochidoki Ice Cream Matcha Green Tea, Salted Caramel, Passion Fruit

Mile End Deli’s bagel sandwiches. ASIA COLADNER

ASIA COLADNER

Liquiteria’s açaí bowls and green juice. Toby’s Estate coffee.

NEW BREAKFAST DISHES AT URBANSPACE VANDERBILT The vendors at the Urbanspace Vanderbilt food hall have added new breakfast dishes to their menus. Mile End Delicatessen is serving a $5 bodega special, a bacon, egg, and cheese sandwich (with coffee), until Labor Day. The popular burger spot Hard Times Sundaes is offering a breakfast burger with a 4-ounce beef patty, eggs, bacon, and cheese on a poppy seed kaiser roll. Urbanspace Vanderbilt 230 Park Ave. UrbanspaceNYC.com

Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.

Chef Yamasaki

RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave) Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

The shakshuka at 12 Chairs is made with three different kinds of paprika, lending a delicious smokiness.

12 Chairs Cafe By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff Starting your day with shakshuka is the best way to warm your stomach while also brightening up your palate. The traditional Israeli breakfast dish consists of poached eggs in a tangy, spicy sauce, made from tomatoes, onions, and peppers. Three different kinds of paprika go into it, lending a hint of smokiness to tempt your tastebuds. It’s the ultimate sauce for bread-dipping. In Israel, the bread of choice is pita, soft and chewy and with enough heft to scoop up the chunky sauce. The restaurant 12 Chairs Cafe, which has been a SoHo mainstay for more than 10 years, serves authentic pita imported from Israel. Pita is also traditionally eaten with falafel and hummus. Here, the falafels are a vibrant green, from the fresh herbs inside, while the hummus is thick and lightly dressed with olive oil and paprika to let the pure taste of the chickpeas come through. Another zesty breakfast dish is the Israeli salad: chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, and red onions tossed in a sunny combination of olive oil, lemon, and cumin. The fun part is in the rest of the platter: eggs and an assortment of spreads like Bulgarian feta, olive tapenade, labneh (strained yogurt), and pesto, for mixing and matching the different flavors and textures.

12 Chairs Cafe

56 MacDougal St., SoHo 342 Wythe Ave., Brooklyn 212-254-8640 12ChairsCafe.com Hours Breakfast served all day Sunday–Thursday 8 a.m.–11 p.m. Friday–Saturday 8 a.m.–midnight

The Israeli breakfast platter comes with different spreads for you to mix and match.

You can taste pure chickpeas in 12 Chairs’s hummus.

All that sauce is perfect for dipping with pita bread.

Openings around NYC

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF OCA

The Oca 8 tapioca crepe, with strawberries, organic dark chocolate and cashew cream, macadamia nuts, and Himalayan sea salt.

Oca Opened by four young Brazilians, Oca is a tapiocaria devoted to crepes made with gluten-free tapioca flour and filled with organic ingredients. Crepe fillings include scrambled eggs, chopped tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, and truffle oil with a Parmesan cheese crust; wild salmon with cream of cashew and wasabi, pumpkin seeds, and diced avocado; raw coconut, fresh mango, walnuts, and coconut sugar; and grilled pineapple with honey and sautéed red peppers, feta cheese, and mint leaves with a sesame seed crust.

250 Mott St. (between East Houston & Prince streets) SoHo OcaStore.com

The Oca 3, with a filling of scrambled eggs, dried tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, truffle oil, and topped with Parmesan cheese.

Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

The Spirit of Summer

Celebrating Traditions

Kaiseki -Style

at El Paso

Book us for your corporate events, cocktail parties, work lunches, or special celebration!

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

ALL PHOTOS BY BENJAMIN CHASTEEN/EPOCH TIMES

apanese kaiseki encapsulates the spirit of the season. Each dish of the traditional multicourse meal is made with ingredients that can only be found at that moment. But one particular course sets the theme for the meal: the “hassun,” an elaborate platter of small bites that are meant to evoke the seas and mountains during a particular season.

Octopus, al pastor, and “pollo pibil” braised chicken tacos.

Mixiote Hidalguense, a steamed lamb shank dish from the state of Hidalgo in Mexico.

Our Specials Late Night Happy Hour Thursday to Sunday, 10 p.m. to close • $4 drafts, $6 margaritas, $5 sangria, $1oysters • 1/2 dozen oysters & Dos Equis $11.00, all day

Traditional Mexican on the Upper East Side

1643 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10029 212.831.3104 www.elpasony.com

Brushstroke

Donguri Donguri’s executive chef and owner Yorinobu Yamasaki delivers a Kyoto-style hassun, featuring one of the Japanese city’s most famous tofu products, yuba—the layer that forms on top of boiled soy milk during the tofu-making process. Yamasaki imports fresh, creamy yuba from Kyoto and serves it with dashi, soy sauce, and a dab of wasabi. Dashi is a Japanese soup stock made with dried bonito (tuna) flakes and seaweed. Peeled summer tomatoes, resembling colorful marbles, sit in a pool of vinegar and dashi, tangy and refreshing. That bright acidic flavor is also in the deep-fried fluke, marinated for several days prior in rice vinegar and dashi. Yamasaki lets time run its course to develop the utmost umami. Monkfish liver, for example, is slow-cooked for hours until it becomes velvety smooth, like foie gras. Its light fish flavor is tempered by the ginger, soy sauce, sake, and dashi in which it’s cooked. 309 E. 83rd St. (between First & Second avenues) Upper East Side 212-737-5656 DonguriNY.com

Since summer weather is often humid and sticky, the Japanese believe that consuming slippery foods during the season stimulates the appetite and is good for the body. At David Bouley’s Brushstroke, executive chef Isao Yamada assembles a cooling remedy of grated yam tofu, sliced orange clam, lily buds, trout roe, okra, and a gelée made of dashi. Its soft, gentle texture makes it fun to sip on. An edamame mousse and a chilled corn soup—the latter served in an aromatic wooden sake cup—embody the Japanese aesthetic of keeping flavors light and pure. “The summer season is when most lives on this planet are the most energetic and active,” Yamada said in an email interview. “We want our guests to feel the season, and at the same time, we express our gratitude, awe, and respect to the season.” Conch is cooked in soy sauce, mirin, and sake for a hint of sweetness to complement its clean taste. A delicate piece of unagi (freshwater eel), commonly eaten in the summer to relieve fatigue, is combined with rice for a perfect bite of sushi, topped with sansho peppers for a dash of zest. Summer is the season of traditional festivals in Japan, often celebrated by lighting lanterns. That imagery is reflected in the hassun. Lit candles are wrapped in slices of daikon radish, while preserved figs are encased in the bright orange husks of Japanese ground cherries. The fruit is nestled in a wonderfully nutty, sesame-andpine-nut paste. 30 Hudson St. (between Duane & Reade streets) Tribeca 212-791-3771 DavidBouley.com

Momokawa

Authentic Japanese GMO FREE

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) • Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)

• Dessert

$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

THE NEW AMERICAN TRADITION

At Momokawa, the hassun is designed to restore one’s health. Chef-owner Mie Okuda’s interest in nutrition has influenced how she crafts the course, a big spread of small plates made with GMO-free, organically grown produce. A warm cup of dashi, strongly smoky from the bonito and mixed with bits of yuzu citrus, consoles the stomach and prepares it for the meal ahead. According to Okuda, Mozuku seaweed helps to cleanse one’s blood vessels. She uses it to prepare a seaweed dressing with a briny, oceanic flavor, which melds beautifully with mild-flavored fish. She also marinates yam—good for cleansing the intestines, she said—in wine and soy sauce, for a tart, pickled taste. Okuda also includes other classic Japanese dishes in the hassun to give diners a sampling of traditional cuisine: a chawanmushi egg custard with crab meat; assorted sashimi (prepared by sushi chef Yutaka Murai); lightly seasoned duck breast; housemade sesame tofu; and chewy abalone. 157 E. 28th St. (between Lexington & Third avenues) Kips Bay 212-684-7830 1466 First Ave. (between East 76th & East 77th streets) Upper East Side 212-256-0403 MomokawaNYC.com

Come try our creative approach to brunch, lunch, and dinner—on Murray Hill.

557 3rd Ave @ 37th Street New York, NY 10016 (212)686-8080 | www.hendriksnyc.com | Follow us

2nd Location

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August 26–September 1, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF TEN SPEED PRESS

The Art Spritz

An inside look at the classic Italian cocktail.

of the

By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West

•

The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu • Shochu & sake • Exceptional value

Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel

Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar ShimizuSushiNY.com •

318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) • (212) 581-1581

Classic Margherita Pizza

he spritz is one of Italy’s iconic drinks, redolent of la dolce vita and sipped during the ephemeral hours between work and dinner. No wonder it’s caught on around the world. In the book “Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes,” Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau dig into the history and evolution of the drink, along the way offering recipes for regional classics, as well as modern takes.

Leslie Pariseau (L) and Talia Baiocchi. or hour that you don’t have to be anywhere. It’s also requisite to eat a little something. In Venice, these accompanying snacks are called cicchetti—little bites like polpette [meatballs] and crostini. But anywhere spritzes are served, so is food, whether it’s a basket of gratis potato chips or a beautiful spread of olives, tramezzini [triangular sandwiches], and nuts.

Epoch Times: The Spritz is as old as ... Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau: ... the soda siphon. When soda water was born (and arrived in Italy), the spritz was born. At first, the spritz was simply wine with a “spray” of water, which is what “spritz” means in German. The story goes that Austrians occupying northern Italy during the Hapsburg reign in the 19th century watered down the local wines with a spray of water. Eventually, soda water and bitter red aperitivo wines like Aperol, Select, Campari, and others were added to complete the modern spritz architecture. Epoch Times: What kind of daily little rituals are usually associated with having a spritz in Italy?

Epoch Times: What are your go-to spritzes? And what little bites would you have with it? Ms. Pariseau: The Punch House Spritz. It’s a universally lovable combination of grapefruit, Lambrusco Rosato, and Cocchi Americano.

“Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes” by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau.

Ms. Baiocchi and Ms. Pariseau: We’d both pair this with the typical aperitivo setup—some bright green olives, salty nuts, a pile of prosciutto, some good bread, and olive oil.

Ms. Baiocchi and Ms. Pariseau: Eating and socializing. The spritz is meant for the inbetween moments of the day—the time after work and before dinner or moments stolen on sunny afternoons. The spirit of the spritz is about being social and savoring the 30 minutes Arugula, Garlic & Sunny Side Eggs Pizza

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“the pizza is super thin-crust, crispy and delicious. you can smell the wood burning stove a block away...” ZAGAT USER

Ms. Baiocchi: The Safe Passage. A blend of amaro, Aperol, olive brine, lemon, and prosecco, the Safe Passage manages to get savory, bitter, and slightly sweet flavor profiles all in the same glass.

Recipes from “Spritz: Italy’s Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes” by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau, Ten Speed Press, 2016

Roasted Eggplant, Zucchini & Olives Pizza

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“The wood fired oven along with the homemade cheese just can’t be beat. ” PM

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PIZZA LOVE Cut fresh herbs onto your amazing wood fired oven pizza. Made in just 5–7 minutes.

800 6th Ave (btwn 27th & 28th St) (212) 213-5042

RECIPE SAFE PASSAGE • 1 ounce Amaro Nardini • 1/4 ounce Aperol • 1/4 ounce fresh lemon juice • 1/4 ounce Castelvetrano olive brine • 2 1/2 ounce prosecco

DIRECTIONS Add Amaro Nardini, Aperol, lemon juice, and olive brine to a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake until chilled. Strain into a chilled coup or cocktail glass. Top with prosecco and garnish with olives.

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RECIPE

APEROL SPRITZ

PUNCH HOUSE SPRITZ

• 3 parts Cinzano Prosecco • 2 parts Aperol • 1 dash soda • Ice and a slice of orange

• 2 ounces Cocchi Americano • 4 ounces Lini Lambrusco Rosato • 1 ounce fresh grapefruit juice • 1 ounce soda water

DIRECTIONS

Pour the Prosecco, Aperol, and a dash of soda into an ice-filled balloon wine glass and stir. Garnish with an orange slice.

Build the ingredients in a rocks or wine glass over ice and add a grapefruit half-wheel for garnish.

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Come enjoy cuisine from the most savory region in Mexico...Puebla! Carlos Varella, chef and owner of Beach Bistro 96, brings a taste of his native Brazil to the Rockaways.

Savoring the Rockaways SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Foodie’s Rockaways continued from D3 Cuisine by Claudette Claudette Flatow, who was born in Morocco and grew up in France, learned to cook from her chef mother. In the Rockaways, she drew on her culinary experience—having cooked everything from French to Middle Eastern to American fare—to teach the local community how to cook healthy meals, for 15 years. Five years ago, she decided to finally open a restaurant. Her broad repertoire includes Middle Eastern dishes like baba ghanoush, strongly nutty with the taste of tahini, and falafel with zesty hummus ($10), as well as Moroccan dishes like carrots dressed in a fantastic medley of cumin, harissa, parsley, and garlic ($8.95 per pound) and the Moroccan tomato salsa, made with jalapeño peppers, that gives a heat that slowly spreads around your mouth ($8.95 per pound). Flatow’s most popular creation is the turkey burger ($10.95), which she developed as a gluten-free option for the many Irish-Americans in the neighborhood who suffered from celiac disease. She found a way to make the patty soft without the use of breadcrumbs. Flatow wouldn’t tell us exactly what’s in it, but we tasted feta cheese, spinach, and other vegetables—like the filling in a creamy, hearty meat pie. Perhaps what’s most charming about Flatow’s establishment is the homey warmth of her food. The food is prepared fresh daily, ready for purchase at the to-go counter and perfect

Chicks to Go This women-owned Peruvian rotisserie dishes out well-seasoned birds with bold sauces ($13 for whole, $8 for half, $4.5o for quarter). Other items include hearty chicken empanadas, sweet plantains, and avocado salad. Though it is primarily a takeout spot, there is some limited seating. Chicks-ToGo.com

Thai Rock This Thai restaurant overlooking Jamaica Bay boasts gorgeous views, live music, and jet ski rentals right off its deck. Take in the sunset over a dinner of unabashedly pungent dishes like the Lime Shrimp with garlic, fish sauce, and chili ($12) and authentic dumplings made with turnip and peanuts—hard to find at Thai restaurants ($8). The Tarzan Boat, a mobile jungle gym that’s hauled out to the middle of the bay when in use, is moored there. ThaiRock.us Uma’s Uzbek food served at a concession stand in the middle of the Rockaways beach is an unexpected find, but diversity is exactly what makes the city dining scene so great. The stand at Beach 97 sells fried dumplings and

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Cuisine by Claudette offers homey and delectable dishes for takeout or eating in at their Beach 116th Street location, such as (clockwise from top L) baba ganoush, falafel, Moroccan carrot salad, turkey burger, and breaded eggplant. There is also a location at Riis Park Beach Bazaar. SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

for picnicking on the beach. Desserts are equally delicious, including a warm bread pudding with a most wonderful caramelized sugar crust ($3 a piece); pleasantly sweet, moist banana bread ($3); and a vibrant lemon custard tart ($3.75). Flatow’s son Yarden created the restaurant’s drinks menu, with options like the house-kegged, extra-caffeinated nitro cold-brew coffee ($3.75); cold-brew hibiscus ginger tea ($3.50); and the Jamaican Bay Sludge, a well-balanced New Orleans-inspired drink with chicory and maple syrup ($4). Facebook.com/CuisineByClaudette

kebab platters, such as the salmon kebab, with juicy chunks of fish and a unique texture that’s reminiscent of sticky rice but more pillowy ($14). You can visit the brick-and-mortar on Rockaway Beach Boulevard for their complete menu. Facebook.com/UmasRockawayBeach Rockaway Beach Bakery Tracy Obolsky makes freshly baked goodies like a lovely (and not sugary-sweet) blueberry danish, chewy pretzel-peanut butter cookies, hearty croissants accented by a cheese-like savoriness, and an addictive everything-croissant with ham and cheese. The location of the bakery is undisclosed, but follow it on Instagram and you might find out its location. Obolsky will also be selling her pastries at the Riis Park Beach Bazaar. Instagram.com/RockawayBeachBakery

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

Claudette Flatow and her son Yarden Flatow, who has fine-tuned an excellent coffee program. Tip: Get the extracaffeinated cold brew.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

Blueberry danish by pastry chef Tracy Obolsky at the recently opened Rockaway Beach Bakery.

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Beach Bistro 96 Chef, owner, and surfer Carlos Varella brings the flavor of his native Brazil to the Rockaways. He’s from Santos, he’ll tell you, and if you have a quizzical look on your face, he’ll simply follow that with one word: “Pelé.” Here, tapioca flour is turned into glutenfree crepes, their speckled snow-white surface resembling a sand-caked surfer’s face. They’re filled with gooey mozzarella and spinach ($6). The pão de queijo, or small cheesefilled breads, come piping hot and delicious ($6 for five). There’s also a hard-to-find cut of beef, the fat-topped sirloin called picanha, whose mere mention has made many a Brazilian shed a tear of nostalgia ($12 for a sandwich, $15 with mashed potatoes). Wash it all down with passion fruit or caju (cashew apple) juice ($3). ept.ms/BeachBistro96

60 E. Third St. (between First & Second avenues) 646-692-9268 • eldiablitotaqueria.com

How to Get There

By Bus: On weekends until Labor Day, NYC Beach Bus takes beach goers on a repurposed school bus, with pickup locations at Union Square, Williamsburg, and Downtown Brooklyn. Rockaway Beach Bus has charter buses that pick up at locations in Bushwick, Williamsburg, and the Lower East Side. NYCBeachBus.com RockawayBeachBus.com If you’re going with a big group, Go Wild NYC picks up from Sunnyside, Long Island City, and Astoria, Queens, as well as Greenpoint and Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Available until October. NYCBeachBums.com/riis-park-beachbaazar-trip

at el Pote

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria

By Subway: Take the A and S trains to reach different sections of the beach. MTA.info By Ferry: Take the New York Beach Ferry (runs until Labor Day), which docks at Pier 11 by Wall Street. NewYorkBeachFerry.com

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE

Rich Paella Valenciana CHANNALY PHILIPP/EPOCH TIMES

Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops

Tapioca crepe with mozzarella and spinach at Beach Bistro 96. An order of pão de queijo (cheese bread) and passion fruit or caju juice round out a delicious meal.

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

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Members of Kenya’s Maasai tribe on a training mission in Kenya’s Maasai Mara region. A program allows tourists to come learn alongside locals.

Tourists Learn Alongside Locals on Guide-Training Safaris By Charmaine Noronha MARA NORTH CONSERVANCY, Kenya—It’s not just a safari. It’s a master class in the untamed world, a behind-the-scenes education with experts who are the talking Google gods of wildlife. That’s what it’s like on safaris that let tourists learn alongside locals who are training to be guides. The guides, members of Kenya’s Maasai tribe, spend three weeks on a training mission traversing East Africa’s Maasai Mara region under the tutelage of senior guiding experts. And tourists can come along for the Land Cruiser rides. The three-week expedition, called Pyramids of Life, moves from Kenya’s Mara North Conservancy, which borders the country’s famous Masa Mara region, to Tanzania’s northern and southern Serengeti. But unlike other safaris I’ve been on, this one is not just about driveby photo opportunities. It’s about learning to become attuned to the sights and sounds of nature so you’re able to predict and identify what may be moving about in the plains. On a typical safari, you’re rushed off from place to place to make sure you bag photos of all the Big 5 game—lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard, and rhino. But on this trip, instead, you immerse yourself for hours watching incredible scenes unfold. As we wound our way through the plains each day under the heat of a penetrating sun, we saw impalas galloping by, hungry hippos, and giraffes on the hunt for water. We witnessed a wildebeest giving birth and saw her newborn calf stumble to gain its footing, falling and rising several times in those first few moments of life. Then, as the mother began sauntering off to join thousands of other wildebeests in a migrating herd, we were stunned to see the newborn running too. We also saw a warthog torn to pieces by a lion. In the quiet of the night, the sound of the big cat’s teeth crushing the wild pig’s bones sent shivers down my spine. Topi antelopes stood guard on mounds of dirt to warn others of impending danger. Zebras used their tails to swish insects off their pals. We even learned about creatures I’d never heard of, like the hyrax, a small rodent-like animal that we were told is actually related to elephants. Pyramids of Life is offered by Alex Walker’s Serian tour company. Walker says when he first started in the business 20 years ago, he used to conduct 45-day safaris. “Back in the day, you really got to know the landscape and understand the animals,” Walker said. “Your newspaper was reading the sounds of animals and birds to indicate what was happening in the

bush. It was like a chess game, trying to work out where things were.” Today, most game drives have been condensed to one or two days out in the plains. “The idea of safari has been compacted into photos and soundbites,” Walker said. The idea behind the Pyramids of Life tour is “to bring that real-life-connect-the-dots back. We want to teach you to read the plains.” Serian’s Maasai guides know the bush, having grown up here, but they have “differing levels of knowledge.” The training allows them to share what they know with each other and with the guests, and provide an overlay of information about what they’re seeing. “It’s about reconnecting with nature and allowing for the time to take it all in,” Walker said. We also watched as the guides and their trainers developed relationships, sharing information, giggling at mistakes and patting each other on the shoulder when they learned something new. And we partook in a walking safari to learn the ways of the Maasai. We were shown plants used for healing, others used as deodorant. At one point, they showed us how to make fire with sticks and how they once hunted with a bow and arrow. “I like being a guide because I can spend time in the bush, showing others my land. You’re an ambassador to them. On this safari you get to learn about everything by seeing things happen right in front of you. We share our knowledge with guests, while learning at the same time, it’s great! I started in the kitchen as a cook but now, here I am, getting to tell others about things I’m interested in, such as birds,” said Maasai guide Mark Taga. “Being a guide makes me so happy,” said another guide, Judy Koya. “I knew when I was a child that I wanted this to be my office.” At night, we congregated around a fire, discussing the wonders of the day. “Imagine this was how field trips were conducted when you were a kid in school,” said co-safari guide trainer Clint Schipper. “You’d never want to leave.” As he spoke, a bonfire burned in front of me, a starry sky glittered above, and my mind filled with images of the hippos, crocodiles, and cheetah we’d seen that day. The night surrounded us with a cacophony of sounds— insects buzzing, birds calling. Schipper was right: This was the ultimate school field trip, and I didn’t ever want to leave. IF YOU GO... The Pyramids of Life Program is offered annually for three weeks in March, though guests can sign up for shorter periods. Serian.com From The Associated Press

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The expedition teaches participants to become attuned to the sights and sounds of nature.

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Whee! Niagara Falls Latest Natural Wonder to Add Zip Line By Michael Hill Niagara Falls is the latest natural wonder to add a zip line, offering honeymooners and everyone else the chance to take an adrenaline-pumping plunge toward churning mist at speeds topping 40 mph. The elevated cable rides have evolved from a novel way to explore jungle canopies to almost necessary additions to lure tourists in the 21st century to established destinations. It’s a trend that’s exposed a rift between those who approach nature like contemplative monks and others who require an extreme, Indiana Jonesstyle experience. “We can’t make these into museums,” argued Tom Benson, co-founder and chief experience officer at WildPlay Element Parks, which built the Niagara Falls zip line. “How do you take a teenager and get them away from a game console to something that is going to capture their imagination?” The booming popularity of commercial zip lines over the past five years—there are at least 200 in the United States alone—means more people are experiencing nature in a way that would make Thoreau dizzy. They can ride above the tree line at New River Gorge in West Virginia, over California’s Catalina Island, above lush Hawaiian landscapes, and in view of Denali in Alaska. A zip line ride in Mexico’s Copper Canyon runs more than 1 1/2 miles, one in Nepal has a drop of 2,000 feet, and another in Sun City, South Africa, boasts top speeds of 100 mph. “You feel all this air rushing past you, it’s this

Wandering Moose Inspires 400-Mile Cross-Border Trail By Mary Esch NEWCOMB, N.Y.—The 400-mile trek of a radiocollared moose named Alice is the inspiration for a proposed hiking trail from Ontario’s forested Algonquin Park to the heart of New York’s Adirondack Mountains. Planners of the A2A—Algonquin to Adirondack—Trail liken it to Spain’s famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route, with the added benefit of preserving an important wildlife migration corridor between two vast wilderness regions. “This is one of the last great migration routes. It’s an area where wildlife can regenerate itself,” said Emily Conger, chair of the trail committee for the A2A Collaborative, the Ontario-based nonprofit conservation group behind the project. Still in the planning stages with no definite route, the A2A will combine existing trails and roads following the general track taken by Alice, a moose that was radio-collared by New York wildlife workers in 1998 and released in a remote forest area in the central Adirondack town of Newcomb. For two years, researchers tracked Alice as she swam across lakes, traversed the U.S. Army’s Fort Drum, swam the St. Lawrence River, and loped across Canada’s busy Highway 401 before eventually reaching the 3,000-square-mile Algonquin Park, where she died of unknown causes. Her remains were found in 2001. “We want to create a trail system that is not only a destination, but also elevates the concept of wildlife corridors and connectivity of landscapes,” said Sarah Walsh, with New York’s Department of Environmental Conservation who serves privately as A2A’s volunteer president. “People will be able to experience the

A tourist suspended above the water from zip lines makes his way at speeds of up to 40 mph toward the the mist of the Horseshoe Falls, on the Ontario side of Niagara Falls.

great almost roller coaster-esque feeling,” Quillan Brady said after riding on the new Eagle Flyer zip line at Lake George in New York’s Adirondacks. “But really, what I think makes it is looking around and seeing all this natural New York beauty.” Niagara Falls-area resident James Bannister doesn’t quite see it that way. To him, the new zip line there amounts to a “circus midwaystyle attraction.” “Every once in a while somebody comes along and says, ‘Boy, you could build another great attraction here!’ As if the falls itself wasn’t enough of an attraction,” Bannister said. Zip line fans say it’s still possible to marvel at nature while whizzing above it at highway speeds. At Niagara Falls, WildPlay’s Benson said his four lines angling 2,200 feet along the Canadian side of the gorge were designed to be sensitive to the local environment. Catalina Island’s zip line makes stops for presentations at designated “eco-stations.” And riders of the Lake George zip line who were questioned after their rides said they had a new perspective on the natural wonder. The owner of the Lake George line, Ralph Macchio Sr. (father of the “Karate Kid” actor with the same name), said he got the idea for his attraction by gazing out from atop the majestic Adirondack peaks. “I thought, ‘Gee, if you could look at it like you were flying like a bird and get that view, that would be an Adirondack experience,’” Macchio said. “And that’s why I built the zip line.”

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Huntington Wildlife Forest from the top of Goodnow Mountain in New York’s Adirondack Mountains. way Alice made this journey.” The Adirondack section of the trail will most likely start in Newcomb at the Adirondack Interpretive Center, a nature center where the College of Environmental Science and Forestry tracked Alice. From there, it will meander through hardwood and evergreen forest interspersed with bogs, streams, and lakes. A tentative plan includes 192 miles of existing hiking trails, 56 miles of rail-trail, 60 miles of main roads, and 115 miles of back roads. Coordinators plan to engage communities along the route to provide amenities for trail walkers. Conger envisions something similar to the 375-mile stretch of the Camino de Santiago trail in Spain that she walked in 2014, starting in the rugged Pyrenees and traveling through villages, vineyards, farms, and forests. Along the way, pilgrims were welcomed into cafes, shops, and inns in communities that had a thriving tourism industry because of the trail. “The A2A can bring a similar economic boost for small towns in northern New York and eastern Ontario,” Conger said. A series of promotional events is in the works along the Canadian section starting this fall, with a goal of seeing the full route completed in five years, Conger said. Walsh concedes that the A2A Trail has many obstacles outside the park boundaries, but the organization will work with civic groups, greenways, land trusts, and others to design a route that communities will embrace. She said the Appalachian Trail, maintained by 31 trail clubs and many partnerships from Georgia to Maine, provides inspiration. “It took decades to complete the Appalachian Trail,” she said. “We’ve only been working on this for less than two years.” From The Associated Press

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Lava from Kilauea, an active volcano on Hawaii’s Big Island, flows into the ocean on Aug. 9. This photo was taken from a boat operated by Lava Ocean Tours off the coast of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park near Kalapana.

Lava Meets the Sea

A Fire-Spitting Show in Hawaii

By Caleb Jones

AWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK, Hawaii—For the first time in three years, lava from a volcano on Hawaii’s Big Island has crept down miles of mountainside and is dripping into the Pacific Ocean, where it’s creating new land and putting on a crackling, hissing, fire-spitting show. Thousands of visitors from around the world have swarmed Hawaii Volcanoes National Park by land, sea, and air to take in the spectacle. The billowy, bright-orange lava pops and sizzles, and reeks of sulfur and scorched earth, as it oozes across rugged terrain and eventually off a steep seaside cliff. When the hot rocks hit the water, they expel plumes of steam and gas—and sometimes explode, hurling chunks of searing debris. The 2,000-degree molten rock is from Kilauea, one of the world’s most active volcanoes. Its Puu Oo vent began erupting in the

You start in the middle of the ocean in the darkness, and you end up in this beautiful lava falls. Pablo Aguayo, visitor from Santiago, Chile

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Visitors can hike about 10 miles round trip to see the lava, or take a boat or helicopter tour to see the flow.

Steam and gas rise from the summit crater atop Kilauea.

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Hardened lava rock from Kilauea.

1980s and periodically pushes enough lava seaward that people can access it. Reaching the latest flow requires a boat, a helicopter, or strong legs—the hike to the entry point, where the lava meets the sea, is 10 miles round trip on a gravel road surrounded by miles of treacherous, hard lava rock. Pablo Aguayo, of Santiago, Chile, took a sunrise boat tour of the flow earlier this month. “It’s pretty amazing,” he said. “You start in the middle of the ocean in the darkness, and you end up in this beautiful lava falls.” Aguayo said he could feel the lava’s heat, and it smelled “super funny.” “It’s like welding something,” he said. “We have many volcanoes back home in Chile. We have plenty. But nothing like this.” His tour boat was a 42-foot aluminum catamaran operated by Lava Ocean Tours owner Shane Turpin, who said he navigates to within a few yards of the entry point for the best view. On Aug. 9, a second branch of lava started to spill into the sea, giving Turpin’s passengers a look at two lava flows about 200 yards apart. “Just to have one drip (of lava) touching the ocean is awesome,” Turpin said as people snapped photos of the dual flows. “But to get a show like you’re getting this morning, well, it sets the bar pretty high for a second trip.” The park has seen an increase of about 1,000 to 1,500 visitors per day since the current lava flow reached the sea in late July, boosting attendance to about 6,000 people daily, officials said. Park spokeswoman Jessica Ferracane warns the area can be dangerous. Hikers can get close enough that the soles of their shoes get hot. Also, the area is flanked by hardened lava rock as sharp as glass. Many people have suffered lacerations while trying to cross the jagged landscape, Ferracane said. “Everybody wants to see the lava flow, but not everybody should be hiking out there,” she said. Additionally, when the lava touches the ocean, it reacts with the saltwater and produces harmful hydrochloric acid, which wafts into the air, said Janet Babb, a U.S. Geological Survey geologist at the Hawaiian Volcano Observatory. The lava then quickly solidifies and creates a new landscape. According to the U.S. Geological Survey, the Puu Oo vent alone has created about 500 acres of new land since it began erupting a few decades ago. The latest flow, which began in May, has created about eight new acres. Most of Kilauea’s activity has been nonexplosive, but a 1924 eruption spewed ash and 10-ton rocks into the sky and left one man dead. Puu Oo’s 1983 eruption resulted in lava fountains soaring over 1,500 feet high. In the decades since, the lava flow has buried 48 square miles of land and destroyed many homes. In 2008, after a series of small earthquakes rattled the island, Kilauea’s summit crater opened and gushed lava and rock over 75 acres of the mountain, damaging a nearby visitor overlook. It’s hard to predict when the volcano will inflate or when the current flow will stop, Babb said. It could slow down any day or keep cascading into the sea for months. From The Associated Press