Epoch Taste 8-7-2015

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SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

D1 August 7–13, 2015

Soft-Shell Crab Deliciousness Seize it!

D8

www.EpochTaste.com

Marc Murphy

From School Troublemaker to Celebrity Chef

Murphy’s Nutella and Peanut Butter Panini. When Murphy briefly attended elementary school in Virginia, his schoolmate suggested that he combine the two delicious spreads together.

Marc Murphy, chef, restaurateur, and judge on the Food Network show “Chopped.”

By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

arc Murphy spent his early years preparing to become a chef, but he didn’t know it at the time. When Murphy attended boarding school in New Hampshire at age 15, he’d often get into trouble. Because he was dyslexic—he wasn’t diagnosed until later in life—he struggled with schoolwork. So he goofed off in class as a coping mechanism—and repeatedly landed in the school cafeteria as a punishment. “The first time I got in trouble, the chef who ran the kitchen said, ‘Take this bucket of soap and water and clean all the table legs.’ I said, ‘Okay! Next?’ He said, ‘You’re already done?’” Murphy recalled during a recent interview. “I thought it was fun.” He relished the chance to get away from class, learning to crack eggs with one hand and working the dish pit. But he didn’t know then that he would eventually choose a culinary career. Today, Murphy heads a mini restaurant empire in New York City, with four popular restaurants: Landmarc Tribeca, Landmarc Time Warner Center, Ditch Plains, and Kingside, as well as a catering company, Benchmarc Events.

See Marc Murphy on D2

To me, the palate of New York is more elevated and more adventurous. It’s always better to cook in New York. Marc Murphy

Murphy’s first cookbook, “Season With Authority,” includes family recipes, popular dishes from his restaurants, and favorites that he enjoys cooking at home.


D2

@EpochTaste

Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

“Ile Flottante” (floating island), consisting of meringue sitting on top of crème anglaise. This was Murphy’s grandfather’s favorite dessert. COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Murphy at his restaurant Landmarc at the Time Warner Center building at Columbus Circle.

Marc Murphy From School Troublemaker to Celebrity Chef Marc Murphy continued from D1

Preparing his grandmother’s ratatouille.

COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

Pistachio Tiramisu, inspired by a recent trip to Italy.

He’s also a TV food personality. Watching Murphy now on the hit Food Network show, “Chopped,” where he judges contestants’ dishes, one wouldn’t imagine him he was a school troublemaker. He is serious and means business when he’s giving his opinions. He remains unfazed when he cooks on special judges episodes, where the experts have to create dishes out of unlikely combinations of ingredients. That natural composure around the kitchen comes from his background where food was always a source of comfort and adventure. Thanks to his foodie grandfather and to an avid cook in his grandmother, the accomplished chef’s earliest memories are of sharing delicious meals with his family. Those food-filled memories influence him to this day; in his recent cookbook, “Season With Authority: Confident Home Cooking,” Murphy recreated the dishes that shaped his early tastes. Growing up in such gastronomic capitals as Rome, Paris, and Genoa, Murphy spent his childhood developing a discerning palate that would serve him well in his later cooking. But it was also disorienting for young Murphy to constantly move from place to place. Food became his solace during the most trying times in his youth. Early Experiences Murphy was born in Milan, Italy, but because of his father’s job as an American diplomat, the family was frequently on the move. When his parents moved to Villefranche sur Mer, a seaside town near Nice, France, Murphy often visited his grandparents, who lived nearby. “Mamie” (French for grandma) made big, scrumptious meals for lunch. Young Murphy, then 4 years old, frequently poked around in the kitchen, helping with whatever errands he could. For example, Mamie grew French green beans (haricot verts) in the garden, and often made a dish where she sautéed them with lots of garlic and parsley. Murphy would set out old newspapers and help her snap the ends off the beans. Murphy also loved her ratatouille dish,

The Man. The Myth. The Murphy. Has lived in: Milan, Paris, Villefranche-surMer (France), Virginia, Rome, Genoa, and New Hampshire (and that’s just up till age 19!) I never complain about anything, ever. Prince Albert of Monaco was my babysitter in the late ‘70s. I drink at least six cups of Lipton tea a day and live in constant fear that I won’t have access to it when I travel, so I bring it with me wherever I go. I built Landmarc [Tribeca] almost entirely by myself. I love being invited to other people’s houses for dinner, but no one ever asks me.

We can’t believe it! Consider yourself invited. (We secretly hope you’ll cook a little.)

which she often cooked on Sundays along with roasted leg of lamb. “When you’re in the south of France, there’s nothing better than the vegetables in the ratatouille. They’re all grown down there, and it’s a perfect marriage of all of them,” he said. In his cookbook, Murphy reproduced his grandmother’s recipe based on what he recalls of the flavors. “But it doesn’t taste the same, because it’s not where you were.” Murphy can still remember those meals he shared with his grandparents, sitting outside on the terrace of their country house. “It just brings back memories. The smell of the area. I remember the driveway into the house had these rows of bushes. I didn’t realize this until I got older, but those were all rosemary bushes. My grandfather used to trim them into square boxes.” To this day, Murphy credits Mamie as his greatest culinary influence, having cooked alongside her throughout the years. Meanwhile, “Papi” (French for grandpa) introduced Murphy to what it means to eat good food: every week, he drove about 30 miles west to a shop in Grasse to pick up all the cheeses for the family. Murphy followed his grandfather everywhere, and would often eat so many cheese samples that he would return home with a stomachache. Every morning, Papi would go to the local “boulangerie” [bakery] to buy fresh bread for breakfast. And at every meal, he would have a big cup of tea. “It was funny because he sat at the head of the table and he always had a cup of tea that was bigger than everybody else’s. Next to him, he would usually have the table set up with the toaster and the cutting board. He was in charge of cutting up the bread and passing it out to everybody,” Murphy said. Reminiscing about those moments, it’s as if Murphy can still hear the sound of ice cracking as Papi dropped a block into his tea to quickly cool it down. Murphy has now picked up the same habit. “Every once in a while, if I’m in a hurry, I’ll throw an ice cube in my tea to get it to a temperature where I can whack it back and go. It reminds me of him,” he said.

OUR PURPOSE: TO SATISFY THE PURISTS TOSHIO SUZUKI, SUSHI ZEN

108 West 44th Street, New York | (212) 302-0707


D3

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Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

Chestnut Rice Pudding, made with a chestnut jam recipe passed down from Murphy’s great-grandmother.

COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

COURTESY OF CEDRIC ANGELES

Summertime is ratatouille time!

Food as Anchor The first time Murphy was away from family, he quickly understood the power of food to console. At 13 years old, Murphy attended a boarding school in Rome, spending nine months of the year there. He was terribly homesick. The meals at the cafeteria served by Italian “nonnas” (grandmas) were the only things Murphy looked forward to. “Here comes little Murphy for the third time,” the ladies would say, when Murphy lined up for more helpings. “Seeing a smiling face serving you beautiful food ... there’s nothing better than that,” Murphy said. He still reminisces about their “cannelloni” (cylindrical pasta stuffed with meat and vegetables) and “vitello tonnato” (veal with tuna sauce). “It wasn’t expensive stuff, but I just remember the food being great.” After Rome, Murphy crossed the Atlantic to attend high school at a boarding school in New Hampshire. He sorely missed the pasta dishes back in Italy, so he tried to recreate them on his own. Teenage Murphy went to the local convenience store and bought the ingredients for a carbonara bucatini (eggs, bacon, bucatini pasta, Parmesan cheese), then cooked the pasta on two hot plates in his dorm. It was the first dish he learned to make, and it was also the first time he experienced the joy of cooking for himself and others. It wasn’t until years later that he cultivated this love for food into a career. After Murphy graduated high school, he was looking for a job that would keep food on the table. While couch surfing with his brother in New York City, who was attending the Institute of Culinary Education at the time, his brother suggested that Murphy enroll too. Murphy writes in his book: “I figured, why not? At the very least, if I worked somewhere as a cook, I’d be able to eat one square meal a day. Living in New York had opened my eyes to what it meant to be homeless and hungry, and I worried that was a real possibility for me if I didn’t get my act together.” The fear of ending up penniless pushed him to finally take up cooking, but it was clear that his lifelong connection to food paved the way. Finding Home in New York City After culinary school, Murphy worked at esteemed restaurants in Italy and France, but ultimately decided to return to New York City. “To me, the palate of New York is more elevated and more adventurous. It’s always better to cook in New York,” he said. The city’s diversity and easy acceptance of outsiders convinced Murphy that this was his home. “This was the city that I felt most comfortable with. I love Paris and Rome, but for some reason, I just felt right at home when I moved here,” he said. At his restaurants, Murphy serves Frenchand Italian-influenced dishes, with a bit of American flair, bringing together all the culinary cultures he grew up with. At home, he has established his own food traditions with his two children. As his grandmother did with him, Murphy cooks with his 8-year-old son and 12-year-old daughter, making their favorite dishes whenever they return home from summer camp. Having already made grilled lamb chops for his son, Murphy can’t wait till his daughter comes home next week, so he can make her favorite rosemary roasted potatoes.

RECIPE RATATOUILLE Serves: 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Olive oil 1 small eggplant (1 pound), cut into 3/4-inch cubes Kosher salt 1 large green zucchini (1 pound), cut into 3/4-inch pieces 1 large yellow squash (1 pound), cut into 3/4-inch pieces 2 small red onions, diced 3 garlic cloves, chopped 2 red bell peppers, cut into 3/4-inch pieces 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes or 1 1/2 pounds fresh tomatoes, chopped 2 sprigs fresh thyme 2 sprigs fresh rosemary 1 fresh or dried bay leaf Freshly ground black pepper Olive tapenade (optional)

When Murphy visited Spoleto, Italy, in the 1990s, he would often buy porchetta sandwiches from food trucks that sold the savory roasted meat. The vendors would slice off the skin, bits of liver, and any cut of the meat you wanted, then serve it on puffy rosetta bread.

RECIPE PORCHETTA

DIRECTIONS

Serves: 8

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F; position the rack in the lower third of the oven.

INGREDIENTS

2. In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, heat enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot over medium-high heat until the oil is shimmering. Add the eggplant and cook, stirring, until browned, 5 to 6 minutes. As the eggplant absorbs a lot of oil, you may need to add a pinch more oil if you see the bottom of the pot go dry. Add a generous pinch of salt, transfer the eggplant to a rimmed baking sheet, and set aside. 3. Return the pot to the stove over medium-high heat, add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot, and add the zucchini. Cook, stirring, until browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add a generous pinch of salt and transfer to the pan with the eggplant. 4. Return the pot to the stove over medium-high heat, add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot, and add the yellow squash. Cook, stirring, until browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Add a generous pinch of salt and transfer to the pan with the other vegetables. 5. Return the pot to the stove over medium-high heat, add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot, and add the onions. Cook, stirring, until softened and beginning to caramelize, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic with a generous pinch of salt, cook for 30 seconds more, and transfer to the pan with the other cooked vegetables. 6. Return the pot to the stove over medium-high heat, add enough oil to cover the bottom of the pot, and add the bell peppers. Cook, stirring, until softened, 6 to 7 minutes. Add a generous pinch of salt and remove from the heat. 7. Return all the cooked vegetables to the pot. Add the tomatoes, thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf. Stir and season to taste with salt and black pepper. If you plan to use the olive tapenade, salt conservatively, as the tapenade will be salty. Cover and transfer the pot to the oven. Roast the ratatouille for 30 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft and resemble a stew. Stir in the tapenade, if using, and discard the thyme, rosemary, and bay leaf before serving. Recipes from “Season With Authority: Confident Home Cooking” by Marc Murphy (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, $30)

• 3 tablespoons fennel seeds • 8 garlic cloves, mashed into a paste • 5 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary • 2 tablespoons kosher salt • 1 1/2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper • 1 1/2 tablespoons red pepper flakes • 1 (6- to 7-pound) boneless pork shoulder, butterflied • 1/2 cup olive oil • 4 cups chicken stock • 2 cups dry white wine

DIRECTIONS 1. In a small pan, toast the fennel seeds over medium-low heat until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Immediately transfer the seeds to a mortar and pestle, and pound until finely ground. 2. In a small bowl, make a cure by combining the garlic, rosemary, thyme, salt, black pepper, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds until incorporated. Rub the pork shoulder with the cure, making sure you season both the inside and outside of the meat. Using kitchen twine, truss the pork shoulder. Place it on a large plate and refrigerate, uncovered, for about 24 hours. 3. Preheat the oven to 450°F; position the rack in the middle of the oven. 4. Place the pork in a large roasting pan. Rub the pork all over with the olive oil and add the chicken stock and wine to the pan. Roast the pork for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the skin starts to get crispy. Reduce the oven temperature to 300°F and continue to roast for about 3 hours, until the pork is fork-tender. Transfer the pork to a cutting board and let rest for about 20 minutes before carving.


D4

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Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF ANASTASIA PLAKIAS

stuff to eat and drink around town COURTESY OF WALTER WLODARCZYK

OYSTERS 101

COURTESY OF WALTER WLODARCZYK

In this class and tasting session hosted by the Billion Oysters program, learn all about the oyster, from measuring live oysters, to testing water quality, to identifying some of the hundreds of other organisms growing on and in the oyster cages. The Billion Oysters Program aims to restore a population of 1 billion oysters to New York Harbor over the next 20 years, and through the process educate thousands of young people about the city’s ecology, economy, and local marine environment. Guests will visit the Brooklyn Navy Yard oyster garden to learn about how its programs will repopulate our local waterways. There will also be an oyster-tasting session (from other areas of the country), where you will be taught how to shuck and taste the complex and nuanced flavors of different varieties. Tuesday, Aug. 11, 6:30 p.m.–8:30 p.m. Brooklyn Navy Yard Farm, Flushing & Clinton avenues. Tickets: $50. BrooklynGrangeFarm.com COURTESY OF STGERMAIN

COURTESY OF STGERMAIN

COURTESY OF JANE KRATOCHVIL

PIG AND WHISKEY AT THE FARM ON KENT Enjoy an evening of comfort food with Food Karma as it hosts Pig and Whiskey, featuring whiskeys from Van Brunt Stillhouse, a Red Hook, Brooklyn-based micro distillery that sources grains directly from upstate New York farmers. On the spit will be pig roasts from the team at Fleisher’s Craft Butchery, omnivores who respect the “whole animal” philosophy. Chow down and drink up to the sounds of live music, featuring local folk, bluegrass, and Americana. Relax on comfy area rugs and pillows, or grab a communal table and take the opportunity to meet some of the best minds in the industry to discuss food and libations. Thursday, Aug. 13, 7 p.m.–10 p.m. 320 Kent Ave., Brooklyn. Tickets: $85. EventBrite.com

BATTLE OF THE BURGER Craving summer’s best burgers? Time Out New York’s Battle of the Burger will put 20 of the best burgers in New York to the test. Contenders include American Cut, BarKogi, Shake Shack, Spotted Pig, and many more! Sponsors Amstel Light and Amstel Radler will be serving up unlimited beer. Wednesday, Aug. 19, 5:30 p.m.–10:30 p.m. 11 Fulton St., South Street Seaport district. Tickets: $50. EventBrite.com

JAZZ AGE LAWN PARTY Did you miss the first Jazz Age Lawn Party this summer? If so, here’s your chance to catch the last party in the event’s 10th anniversary year. It’s all about dancing to authentic music from the 1920’s, while sipping vintageinspired cocktails like the St. Germain Cocktail. This perfect summery drink will be served alongside a variety of elegant daytime tipples. Baked goods fanatics won’t want to miss The High Court of Pie Contest; bring your best pie to compete in categories like Mom’s Best, Hobo’s Choice (so yummy that a hobo would want to steal it while it was cooling on a windowsill), and more! Saturday & Sunday, Aug. 15 & 16, 11 a.m.–5 p.m. Governors Island. Tickets: $35 to $900. JazzAgeLawnParty.com

TAP+CORK BROOKLYN BEER AND WINE FESTIVAL The two-day Tap+Cork Brooklyn Beer and Wine Festival is back for its third year, featuring a Tap night out with pub crawls to selected venues. Around 50 craft beers and artisanal wines will be served alongside curated cuisines from in–demand food vendors. Some of the breweries include Breukelen Cellars, Brooklyn Brewery, Bushbaby Bar & Grill, Olivino Wines, Pacific Standard, Therapy Wine Bar, and more! DJ CEO and Guests will keep the fest vibe going with the its annual Bad Boy versus Roc-A-Fella theme. There will also be a “The ‘70s versus The ‘80s” cross-genre music battle. Friday & Saturday, Aug. 14 & 15, 2 p.m.–8 p.m. 1368 Fulton St., Brooklyn. Tickets: $20. EventBrite.com

Compiled by Daksha Devnani/Epoch Times Staff

AP PHOTO/STEPHAN SAVOIA

Finally! A US-Made Hard Cider That’s Actually Worth Drinking By J.M. Hirsch

There are the restaurants you go to, and

AP PHOTO/STEPHAN SAVOIA

The Restaurant You Go Back to.

I

n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan cuisine. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular long-time local guests, out-of-towners and the many

Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant

celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available: pre-fixe luncheon menu noon-3:00pm ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3:00pm-7:00pm ($59).

236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.patsys.com

Original Downeast Cider House cider at the company’s home office in Boston. The company expects to produce 17,000 barrels of cider this year.

BOSTON—There was a day not so long ago when this country had squat to offer as far as hard ciders. And for those of us who came of age on this deliciously dryly-sweet boozy beverage, it was disappointing to say the least. Having spent my university years in Scotland, I took advantage of many a pint of hard cider to warm my soul during the bitter, damp seasons (11 months of the year). But when I graduated and returned to the United Sttes, I was dismayed to discover so few choices on our shelves and in our bars. That was more than a few years ago. Today, we are awash in hard cider choices, a trend that has piggybacked on the craft beer wave. Sadly, most of them tend to be either stupidly sweet or breathtakingly dry. After a while, I simply shrugged and chalked it up to the United States not having a strong cider culture. Then I spent this summer living (and drinking) in Boston, where Downeast Cider House ciders flow something akin to water. They are deliciously murky. Wait ... Murky? Murky isn’t often a term associated with delicious. But roll with this one. The ciders

I enjoyed as a too-young man were crisply, transparently amber. Downeast Cider House ciders are cloudy. I balked when my first pint was poured. But then I tasted. Clean and crisp, a little sweet, a little dry. Which is to say, a balanced cider. The company was started by Ross Brockman and Tyler Mosher during their final year at Bates College in Maine. Why is their cider different? They’ll tell you it’s because they do everything from scratch. They’ll also mention that their ciders aren’t filtered, hence the murkiness. The resulting ciders are refreshing and lightly sweet, but not cloying. My favorite is their “original,” which accounts for nearly three-quarters of the 17,000 barrels they expect to produce this year, a more than doubling of overall production over last year. So it would seem I’m not the only one impressed by their ciders. Distribution of Downeast Cider House ciders is mostly at bars and by the can in New England, New York, and New Jersey. They are worth hunting for. From The Associated Press


D5

@EpochTaste

Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around town

Perla Lightens Up Perla, the Italian restaurant on Minetta Lane by restaurateur Gabriel Stulman, has recently reopened after closing for a renovation—in the space and the menu. The interior is brighter and lighter, and the counter in the back has transformed into a comfortable second bar. The menu is still Italian but chef Jack Harris has also introduced some lighter, seasonal fare. This summer the menu features Agnolotti with sweet peas, carrots, and Parmigiano—a light

La Pecora Bianca Opens BRIAN PARK

but comforting and delicious dish— as well as Black Bass Crudo with radishes and Diver Scallops with carrot, faro, and mint. In keeping with the more everyday dining feel, family-style dishes for groups of four or more have also been introduced, like Lasagna with English peas, ramps, and Swiss chard, or Lamb & Clams. This rhyming dish features a platter of lamb legs, breast, and tongue, served with clams, anchovies, mint, and yogurt. PAUL WAGTOUICZ

Restaurateur Mark Barak (Claudette) has opened La Pecora Bianca—Italian for “white sheep”—in NoMad’s historic St. James Building. It’s a little taste of the countryside, with its bright dining room and inspiration from an Italian farmhouse. Seasonal, local fare, with ingredients from the Hudson Valley is featured on the menu. Pastas are made in-house, with local and organic flours. Dishes on the menu include Sheep’s Milk Ricotta Cavatelli with blue crab, summer squash, mint, and breadcrumbs and the Aromatica salad with frisee, wild watercress, fennel, radishes, and aromatic herbs. Open for dinner and drinks. Breakfast and lunch service to follow soon.

La Pecora Bianca

1133 Broadway (between 25th & 26th streets) 212-498-9696 LaPecoraBianca.com COURTESY OF TINY EMPIRE

Tiny Empire Opens Second Location in SoHo PAUL WAGTOUICZ

Perla

Scallops at Perla.

COURTESY OF TINY EMPIRE

24 Minetta Lane 212-933-1824 PerlaNYC.com

Williamsburg juice spot Tiny Empire makes its way into Manhattan, with a second location opening in SoHo on Aug. 10. Founder Anthony Spadaro first created Tiny Empire with the commitment to use exclusively organic produce. Fruits and vegetables are not treated with heat, pressure, or preservatives—processes often used to lengthen shelf life. Executive chef, Melissa Love, is a former fashion stylist turned raw food chef and was formerly head of production and product development for Liquiteria Cold Press Juice. The juices, priced between $8 and $10, include combinations such as watermelon, lime, and ginger; and kale, collards, dandelion greens, cucumber, ginger, lemon, and cayenne. The food menu features items such as Kelp Noodles, Açai Bowl, and Coconut Yogurt Parfait.

Tiny Empire

234 Lafayette St. (at Spring Street) TinyEmpireNYC.com

EVAN SUNG

The new Avocado Pang.

Num Pang Introduces Smashing ‘Avocado Pang’ By Sharon Zhang | Epoch Times Staff Num Pang has become a New York darling since its opening in 2009, right at the beginning of the rise of “banh mi,” the Vietnamese sandwich. A “Num Pang” is its Cambodian cousin, made with a protein base, cucumber, pickled carrots, cilantro, and its signature chili mayo. Recently, Num Pang introduced a new avocado sandwich on quinoa bread, called Avocado Pang. As a vegetarian in an omnivore’s world, I was excited that the spotlight was on me and my fellow plant lovers. The Avocado Pang was smashing. Once you work your mouth around the large, messy sandwich, an initial spiciness hits you. It’s a mild spice, a savory-smooth conglomerate from the soy chili and chili peppers. The spice soon gives way to the texture of the crunch from the bread and veggies seamlessly married to the creaminess of the avocado. The flavor of the avocado is picked up with mustard seeds and lime. Add to that the cucumber, carrots, and cilantro, the result is savory and zesty all at once. Before you know it, the spiciness hits again, a bit stronger this time. As for the quinoa bread, the taste is relatively straightforward. It tastes like bread, maybe a little more flour-y than normal. If you’ve ever

made homemade bread, you know the flavor. That said, the flavors of the fillings are what predominate here. The Avocado Pang is available seasonally for $8.75 at all Num Pang locations. All the vegetarian menu items are also served on quinoa bread. MELISSA HOM

The freshest seafood, every day

O

wner, Jesus Martinez, who comes from the verdant province of Galicia in northwestern Spain, is most insistent on quality, and goes to pick out fish at the market every morning at 2:30 a.m.

• Enjoy fine cuisine from Spain made from authentic ingredients, elevated by exact and careful preparation.

Num Pang

Various locations NumPangNYC.com

The Num Pang’s NoMad location.

ALCALA

Restaurant

(212) 370-1866 246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com


D6

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Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com Drinks, cocktails, the works

One-at-a-Time Cocktails Kill a Summer Party. Think Pitchers! MATTHEW MEAD/AP

By Alison Ladman

(L–R) Cilantro-Corn Margaritas, Micheladas, and Hibiscus Coolers.

Mon & Tues 4-8 pm

2 for1

BUILD YOUR OWN BURGER

At Joy Burger Bar, we are all about customizing your burger experience. With 3 burger sizes to choose from and 9 sauces to complement your toppings, you will always get what you want.

Craft Beer 2 Wine 2 Fresh Salads 2 Hand Cut Fries Catch the game on our 40� TVs

1 serrano chili, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 3 limes, quartered 12 ounces tomato juice, chilled Hot sauce, to taste Salt Ice Six 12-ounce bottles Mexican beer, chilled

RECIPE

HIBISCUS COOLERS

CILANTRO-CORN MARGARITAS

Preparation Time: 20 minutes, plus chilling Serves: 8

The corn-lime liquid can be prepped ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to serve.

INGREDIENTS

Preparation Time: 15 minutes Serves: 6

• 1 orange • 4 dried hibiscus flowers or 8 hibiscus tea bags • 1/2 cup sugar • 2 cinnamon sticks • 4 cups water • 3 cups cabernet sauvignon wine, preferably Mexican • 1 cup fresh blackberries • 4 ounces mescal

Use a vegetable peeler to carefully strip off the zest from the orange (the outer orange layer of skin, but not the white pith beneath it). Place the zest in a medium saucepan. Juice the orange into a pitcher and set aside.

We are proud to have been voted

BEST DINER IN NYC

To a saucepan, add the hibiscus, sugar, cinnamon sticks, and water. Bring to a simmer, then cover and remove from the heat. Allow to steep for 15 minutes. Once steeped, strain into the pitcher with a mesh strainer, pressing on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Add the wine, blackberries, and mescal to the pitcher. Refrigerate until well chilled. Serve over ice.

by residents and businesses in lower east manhattan

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In a small pitcher, combine the chili, sugar, Worcestershire, and limes. Muddle the limes and chili slices until the limes are crushed and release their juices. Add the tomato juice and stir well. Season with hot sauce, as desired. Moisten the edge of 6 glasses and dip into salt to edge the rims. Fill each halfway with ice. Divide the tomato mixture among the glasses, then top with beer.

RECIPE

DIRECTIONS

1567 Lexington Ave, New York (212) 289-6222 JoyBurgerBar.com

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Preparation Time: 15 minutes Serves: 6

DIRECTIONS

HAPPY HOUR

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The tomato mixture is easily prepped ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to serve.

• • • • • • • • •

From The Associated Press

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MICHELADAS

INGREDIENTS

A summer party is no time for mixing individual cocktails. That is what’s called a buzzkill. Warm weather festivities demand easy food and even easier drinks. And we’ve got you covered. We suggest starting with six baking sheets. Cover each with tortilla chips. Now start piling on toppings. Sausage on one, browned ground beef on another, thinly sliced steak on a third, maybe some barbecue chicken on another, and so on. Next, pile dierent combinations of veggies and beans onto each. And don’t forget the jalapeùos and olives. Finally, heaps and heaps of cheeses. Just as your guests arrive, pop a couple of these baking sheets into the oven. As they get all melty and delicious, pull them out, toss on some salsa, and sour cream, then serve while a few pans more go in the oven. It’s party food that keeps you at the party, not in the kitchen. Meanwhile, you’ll need some great pitcherstyle cocktails to go with these platters of nachos. We picked three winners for you.

Beer or Wine

RECIPE

INGREDIENTS • Kernels from 2 ears of corn (about 1 3/4 cups) • 1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, plus additional sprigs for garnish • 3/4 cup freshly squeezed lime juice • 1 tablespoon sugar • Lime wedges • Salt • 12 ounces tequila • Ice

DIRECTIONS In a blender, combine the corn kernels, cilantro leaves, lime juice, and sugar. Blend until smooth. Line a mesh strainer with moistened cheesecloth, then strain the blended mixture into a pitcher to remove any solids, squeezing to extract all the liquid. Moisten the edge of small drinking glasses with a lime wedge and dip the rims in salt. To each glass, add 2 ounces of tequila and a couple ice cubes. Top with about 2 ounces of the corn mixture. Garnish with cilantro.

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Remedy Diner Open 24 Hours

Table for One? Dining Alone on a Business Trip

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By Beth J. Harpaz A business trip might leave you too tired to venture out for dinner. But if you’re up for something beyond room service or hotel restaurants, a good meal out is one way to brighten up long days spent in meetings. Here are some strategies for dining out while traveling for work.

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Table for One? Elizabeth McCourt, a headhunter and executive coach with her own company, McCourt Leadership Group, is a foodie who loves trying great restaurants when she travels, from Alice Waters’s Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, to Paul Prudhomme’s K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen in New Orleans. She’s even asked if an entrĂŠe could be downsized to appetizer portion so she could sample more than one main course. And McCourt has no problem dining alone, “I really enjoy that time by myself.â€? But “Sitting at a table alone, sometimes people feel bad for you,â€? she said. So if she can get food at the bar, she picks that over a table for one. That also ups the social aspect, “Sometimes you can have a nice chat with the bartender or someone next to you.â€? Ashley Rodriguez, an account director at Fish Consulting in Washington, D.C., also eats at the bar when possible. “Bartenders are really personable and talkative, so it makes for a much more enjoyable meal,â€? she said. “And I’m talkative, too, so I usually end up having a long conversation with the person sitting next me—and I’ve met some cool people.â€?

Ashby Brame, who does marketing for the Johnson County Visitors Bureau in Smithfield, North Carolina, describes herself as an extrovert who usually finds someone to talk to over dinner, whether it’s inviting another conference attendee to join her or chatting with folks sitting nearby. Every once in a while, she’ll even say to another solo diner, “‘I’m eating alone, and if you’re eating alone—I’m not trying to be weird—but maybe we can share a table.’ I’m just really upfront about it.� Doing the Research Trip Advisor, Yelp, Chowhound, Facebook, and other social media sites are all go-tos when it comes to identifying good restaurants. Brame also likes to get recommendations from locals—and not just the hotel concierge. She might pick a place near the hotel the first night, and then ask the waiter or bartender there, “‘Where’s a good local place to eat around here where you or your friends go?’ I get each person to introduce me to another location, dinner to breakfast to lunch to dinner.� Rodriguez is gluten-intolerant, so researching menus is critical. “I’ll read recommendations from local reporters and bloggers, ask people on Twitter and use an app—my saving grace—called Find Me Gluten Free,� she said. Often hotel concierges don’t have gluten-free recommendations, but one concierge in Las Vegas memorably handed her a list of options near the hotel. “I still have the list,� she said.

Dine Arounds and Group Outings Some conferences organize dine-around nights, where the destination or host group invites attendees to sign up in advance for one of several preselected restaurants with dierent price ranges and cuisines. If there’s no dine around planned, Brame will sometimes “just ask people at the conference, ‘What are you doing for dinner?’â€? and create an impromptu group outing. Rodriguez has also “made spontaneous dinner plansâ€? with other solo business travelers. But sometimes, she said, “after a long day of talking to other people,â€? she actually prefers eating alone, “It’s nice to get some ‘me’ time.â€? Expense Accounts For dine arounds, participating restaurants know they’ll be expected to provide separate checks so each participant can expense the meal. But what if you splurge on a celebrity chef? How do you explain the receipt to the oďŹƒce bean counters? Rodriguez said her rule of thumb is “to spend responsibly.â€? While her company doesn’t have a strict cap on meal expenses, “We kind of joke that we never want to get a phone call from the CFO asking about a dinner bill. So that keeps us responsible. But if I do want to go somewhere more expensive, I’ll expense part of the meal and pay for the rest myself. It’s only fair.â€? From The Associated Press.


D7

@EpochTaste

Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

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On Steinway Street, a bustling strip in Astoria, the diversity of New Yorkers displays itself in the storefronts, from Greek bakeries—remnants of the old Greek neighborhood—to Lebanese and Colombian restaurants that are reflective of more recent immigrant influxes. As for a place for people of different cultures to sit down together for a meal inspired by all of their diverse backgrounds—it’s not an easy find. Nor is it easy to accomplish. But such is the aspiration at Brik Bar Lounge and Kitchen. Unlike at most bars, the menu at Brik isn’t just an afterthought. The owners are constantly testing out recipes to elevate bar favorites. The chicken tacos ($11), for example, are topped with a housemade avocado mousse and chipotle aioli (all of Brik’s condiments are made in-house). The mousse is a creamier and more addictive version of guacamole. And with the smokey flavor of the chipotle, the spicy kick from the pico de gallo, and juicy grilled chicken, these tacos are seriously good eats. Similarly, the chicken skewers are fresh, seasoned with just the right amount of herbs, accompanied with warm, comforting pita and creamy, zesty tzatziki sauce ($10). The salads come in large portions, with fresh greens and dressings that are full of flavor but not overwhelming ($7–$12). Even the desserts here are made in-house, including a soft, luscious cheesecake ($7). Other bar staples get a refreshing update: the popular Brik Burger ($12) comes with feta cheese, grilled tomatoes, and Greek slaw—a nod to the neighborhood’s Greek immigrant history. The Mac and Cheese ($10) is made with manchego, a rich, sheep’s milk cheese from Spain. It’s no wonder that the food at Brik has made it a neighborhood destination. Brik is a hip spot. No less than 24 flat-screen TVs make it easy to catch a game, while a touch-screen jukebox caters to musical inclinations from current top 40 hits to salsa. Right off the Steinway Street subway station, Brik is the perfect place to drop by for a casual meal or drinks with family or friends.

Unlike at most bars, the menu at Brik isn’t just an afterthought.

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With something for everyone, Brik is a great place to drop by with family or friends.


D8

@EpochTaste

Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY MATTHEW MEAD/AP

Soft-Shell Crabs Have a Narrow Window of Deliciousness.

Seize It! By Sara Moulton

The first time I tasted soft-shell crabs I was as a little girl attending the 1964 New York World’s Fair. Looking back, I don’t know where I found the courage. Not only wasn’t I a fan of seafood or shellfish, but this weird new item looked like a giant spider. Let’s say, then, that I closed my eyes before I took a bite. Wow! Crispy and sweet, that softshell crab was one of the best things I’d ever eaten. I have loved them ever since and make a point of preparing them every year when they come into season between late spring and early fall. Soft-shell crabs are blue crabs from the East Coast that have shed their hard shells on their way to growing a new shell that’s even harder. Losing that first hard shell takes several days, but the new shell starts forming within hours. It’s during that tiny window of opportunity that the soft-shells are harvested. If you’ve ever eaten a hard-shell blue crab, you know how much work it is to scoop out the meat. The delightful thing about a soft-shell is that there’s no scooping required. Just about the whole thing is edible, soft shell and all. In fact, for fans of crunch like me, it is that shell that makes the crabs so appealing. Soft-shells are available in several forms at the fish store: live (my preference),

For fans of crunch like me, it is that shell that makes the crabs so appealing.

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fresh-dressed (cleaned on the spot by the fishmonger), dressed (cleaned earlier by the fishmonger), or frozen. They also come in different sizes. My favorite is medium; they tend to be 3 to 4 inches across. They’ll be at their freshest and tastiest if you purchase them live. (How can you tell if they’re still alive? Their claws will be moving.) While you can dress them yourself, it’s easier to let the fishmonger do it. In either case, soft-shell crabs are very perishable, so get them home and cook them as soon as possible. You may have assumed that soft-shell crabs were not only complicated looking, but also complicated cooking. Not so. Making them at home is a snap. My preferred method is to soak them in milk, then dip them in flour and sauté them briefly in a little oil. The milk pulls out any excess fishy taste. But if you don’t have the time, just dip the crabs in milk right before coating them in flour (the milk also helps the flour stick). You could cook the crabs in two successive batches of four crabs each, but then the first batch might get soggy while the second batch cooks. It’s better to cook them all at the same time using two skillets. When it’s time to flip them over, please use long tongs and stand back. These little devils spit quite a bit in the hot oil. Many folks like to coat their soft-shells in batter and deepfry them. Not me. Deep-frying tends to be an awfully messy operation for the home cook. Even worse, the flavor of the crab is smothered under all that batter. I have offered a tomatillo, tomato, and avocado salsa as a topping for the crabs. It provides a nice tangy counterpoint to the sweet crabmeat. But the crabs are equally delicious simply topped with melted butter, and browned in the pan, and a squeeze of lemon. Whatever you top them with, you will be astonished that you can cook soft-shell crabs so easily and in about 10 minutes flat. Sara Moulton was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years, and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows. She currently stars in public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals” and has written three cookbooks, including “Sara Moulton’s Everyday Family Dinners.” From The Associated Press

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RECIPE SOFT-SHELL CRABS WITH RED AND GREEN SALSA Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour, 20 minutes (20 minutes active) Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS • 1/2 gallon milk • 8 small dressed (cleaned) soft-shell crabs For the Salsa • 1/4 pound tomatillos, husked, rinsed and quartered • 1/2 cup coarsely chopped scallions (white and light green parts) • 1/4 cup coarsely chopped cilantro (with stems) • 1/2 serrano chili, coarsely chopped (with seeds and ribs) • 2 teaspoons lime juice • 1 small garlic clove, crushed • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/4 cup quartered cherry tomatoes • 1/2 avocado, cut into small cubes • Ground black pepper For the Crabs • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour • Heaping 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper • 6 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided

DIRECTIONS Fill a large baking pan with the milk. Arrange the crabs in the milk so each is covered. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the salsa. In a blender combine tomatillos, scallions, cilantro, chili, lime juice, garlic, and salt. Purée until smooth. In a bowl stir together the tomatillo purée with the tomatoes and avocado, then season with salt and pepper. Set aside. Once the crabs have soaked for 1 hour, on a sheet of kitchen parchment, stir together the flour, salt, and pepper. Set 2 large skillets over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of the oil to each and heat until shimmering, about 2 minutes. While the oil heats, lift the crabs out of the milk, letting the excess drip off. Lightly dredge the crabs through the flour, lifting the parchment on both sides to help coat them well, shaking off the excess. Add the crabs to the oil, 4 per skillet, and fry until golden brown and firm to the touch, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Take care when flipping, as the oil will spit. To serve, divide the crabs between 4 serving plates and spoon some of the salsa over each portion.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 500 calories; 270 calories from fat (54 percent of total calories); 31 g fat (6 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 160 mg cholesterol; 680 mg sodium; 29 g carbohydrate; 3 g fiber; 4 g sugar; 28 g protein.

It may be a messy process, but it’s totally worth it for crispy yet succulent crabs. Use parchment to help with cleanup.


D9 Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org ALLEN XIE

RECIPE CHINESE NOODLES IN SOYBEAN SAUCE

A Taste of Home: Chinese Noodles in Soybean Sauce

Preparation Time: 5 minutes Cooking Time: 10 minutes Serves: 2

INGREDIENTS

By CiCi Li An appetizing arrangement on a plate is much like a composition on a canvas. Chefs craft with edible ingredients and their creations are far more fleeting than a painter’s, but they, too, strive to express aspects of their own history in their chosen form of art. For the most part, the roots of creatives whose medium is food come through in the dishes they create. “It’s the taste of my hometown!” exclaimed Crescent Dai, a weather anchor at New Tang Dynasty Television, while consuming the creation I recently concocted for her—Chinese Noodles in Soybean Sauce. Crescent is from Northeastern China, and one of the dishes her mother used to cook for her was Noodles in Soybean Sauce. Since she hasn’t been back to China in a long time, she now misses this dish dearly. Luckily, I know the dish by heart because it’s also a dish my mother cooks all the time. Noodles in Soybean Sauce, “zha jiang mian” in Chinese, or “jajangmyeon” in Korean, originated in Shandong Province, China. When the Joseon opened the port of Incheon, many Chinese immigrated from the Shandong to Incheon. There they opened Chinese restaurants, so zha jiang mian took root in Korea, and

evolved into jajangmyeon to suit the Korean palate. There are many variations of zha jiang mian. In Beijing, yellow soybean paste is used. In Tianjin, sweet soybean paste is used. And in Korea, chunjang—roasted dark soybean paste—is used. Since my family is from the Beijing area, we use yellow soybean paste for zha jiang mian. One of the keys to cooking the noodles right is to “shock” them by dousing the freshly cooked noodles with cold water, which stills the microsimmering inside the noodles, keeping them from becoming mushy and giving an al dente, springy quality. You can also add a couple of tablespoons of oil to the noodles so they don’t stick together while serving or eating. For some of us—Crescent among them—the finished dish might conjure up a taste of home. For others, it may just be an exotic getaway. Either way, it’s a great recipe to try this summer. Enjoy!

• 20 ounces Chinese-style fresh wheat noodles • 2 ounces chicken breast, chopped • 4 tablespoons oil • 4 tablespoons doenjang (yellow soybean paste) • 1/4 cup water • 1 tablespoon of dark soy sauce • 1 cucumber, sliced julienne • 2 tablespoons scallions, chopped

DIRECTIONS CiCi Li (R) enjoys making her colleague Crescent Dai a classic dish from back home—Chinese Noodles in Soybean Sauce (below). ALLEN XIE

CiCi Li is the host of “CiCi’s Food Paradise” on NTD Television. She’s also a food writer, and chef trainee. Join her on her adventures and discover the endless wonders of “Food Paradise” at CiCiLi.tv

In a bowl, add the soybean sauce, water, and dark soy sauce. Mix well. Set aside. In a pan, add 1 tablespoon of oil, then add the chopped chicken and cook over medium high heat until well done. Then add the soybean sauce mixture, and stir fry until the aroma comes out. Boil water in a medium saucepan, and add 1 tablespoon of oil to the water to prevent the noodles from sticking together. Then cook the noodles until al dente. Shock the noodles by dousing with cold water. Pour the last 2 tablespoons of vegetable oil over the noodles and then mix well. Again, this prevents the noodles from sticking together. Serve the noodles in a bowl, and top with soybean sauce, cucumber, and scallions.

Embracing the Bracingly Delicious Flavor of Korean Kimchee

AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

By Aarti Sequeira I like to imagine my jar of kimchee wrapped up in a superhero cape. Packed full of fiber, stomach-healthy probiotics, and—according to traditional Korean wisdom—anti-aging properties (Take that, wrinkles!), it’s no wonder this pungent chili-laced jar of fermented vegetables always has a seat at the Korean dinner table. Think of it as Korean sauerkraut. My Korean-American roommates first introduced me to kimchee when I was in my 20s. Not only did they serve it alongside succulent Korean barbecued meats, but also in stir-fry, stews, and even with steamed rice and roasted seaweed. At first, the bold aroma caused my eyes to sting and my nostrils to pinch shut. But I quickly fell in love, relishing the way the sour spice brought even a mundane burger to life. There are hundreds of varieties of kimchee, from the most popular Napa cabbage version, to cucumber, green onion, radish, and pear.

My friend, Debbie Lee, author of “Seoultown Kitchen,” encouraged me to make my own kimchee, since commercial varieties can contain MSG and sugar. My favorite way to use kimchee is the traditional Korean snack, “panjeon,” a sort of pancake. Lee uses sparkling water to keep the pancake light. I add a little apple to tame the kimchee’s heat. Look for kimchee in the refrigerated section of better supermarkets. I like Napa cabbage kimchee made with no MSG. If you’re not into heat, look for “white kimchee,” which contains no “gochugaru” (Korean red chili powder).

These kimchee pancakes with apple are fried until golden brown and crispy on the bottom.

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HEALTH

Food Network star Aarti Sequeira is the author of “Aarti Paarti: An American Kitchen with an Indian Soul.” She blogs at AartiPaarti.com

(HAS A NEW MEANING!)

From The Associated Press

RECIPE KOREAN KIMCHEE PANCAKES WITH APPLE This recipe fits perfectly into a 12-inch nonstick skillet. Also, make sure the water is very cold; I sometimes add a couple ice cubes to the water while I’m prepping the rest of the ingredients. Ice-cold water makes for crispy pancakes. Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Makes: 4 starters or 2 mains

INGREDIENTS • 1 cup finely chopped Napa cabbage kimchee, drained • 3 tablespoons kimchee juice (from the jar) • 2 tablespoons minced yellow onion • 3 tablespoons minced Fuji apple (peel on) • 1 scallion, finely chopped (greens and whites) • 1/2 teaspoon sugar • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • 1/2 cup all-purpose flour • 1/4 cup chilled sparkling water • 3 to 4 tablespoons sunflower or grape seed oil For the Dipping Sauce • 1/4 cup soy sauce • 1 teaspoon sesame oil • 1 teaspoon rice vinegar • Big pinch toasted sesame seeds

DIRECTIONS In a medium bowl and using a fork, stir together the chopped kimchee, kimchee

juice, onion, apple, scallion, sugar, and salt. Sprinkle in the flour and stir together again until the flour is evenly incorporated. Add the water, a little at a time, until a very slight batter forms. It should look very thick, mostly kimchee with hardly any batter pooling around it. Set a large cast-iron skillet over high heat and let it become very hot. Add the sunflower oil, angling the pan to spread it evenly. Working in batches, add 1/2 cup of the batter and use the back of a spoon to spread the batter flat to form a 4-inch pancake. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until golden brown and crispy on the bottom and the top is set up. Use a spatula to flip the pancake and cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, or until crispy on the bottom. Flip one more time and cook for another minute. You’re aiming to get brown and even black bits on the surface of the pancake. Transfer the pancake to a wire rack lined with paper towels and let cool slightly before cutting into wedges. Repeated with remaining batter. Meanwhile, make the dipping sauce. In a small bowl, stir together the soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar, and sesame seeds. Serve the pancake wedges with the dipping sauce.

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D10 Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org

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Making Inroads in America Via Pantry Staples By Edward Lee Everywhere you look, Korean food is screaming off the trend charts. Kimchee has become a household condiment. Korean barbecue is universally loved. “Gochujang” is about to have its heyday. And we’ve seen this sort of thing before. Japanese cuisine was all the rage once, then Thai and Vietnamese, and regional Chinese is making a comeback, too. Except in the case of Korean food, it is playing out a bit differently. In the decade that Korean food has been inching its way into the spotlight, we haven’t seen a proliferation of Korean restaurants as we did with other Asian cuisines. I’d even argue that the mystery of Korean cuisine hasn’t even begun to be unpacked for mainstream America. Rather, the rise of Korean food in America is driven by its pantry ingredients, not traditional restaurants. This is a different path from the other Asian cuisines that have been popularized in the West. One of the main reasons for this is because even though the cuisine of the homeland is complex and ritualistic, the ingredients are not. They made the leap pretty quickly into the American taste vernacular. In fact, the assimilation of Korean food happened so fast, we found our way to kimchee tacos faster than we did kimchee “ji-gae” (a traditional Korean stew). It’s that same versatility that will define the future of Korean food in the United States. The ingredients are already being adapted to everything from burgers to poutine. And it’s not just here. In Seoul, where I traveled frequently

Korean ingredients are already being adapted to everything from burgers to poutine.

Perilla, fish sauce, Korean chili flakes, gochujang, and ssamjang are finding their way into a pantry near you.

AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

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AP PHOTO/CLIFF OWEN

in recent years, the cuisine is rapidly morphing, too. The line between Western influences and traditional flavors is becoming less and less rigid. We don’t need to wait a generation anymore to discover the next incarnation of Korean food. And that’s good—and delicious—for us. What is popular in Korea now is instantly translatable to the American table. The expanding Korean pantry is already here to entice an audience hungry for more umami and spice. Now, I’ll grant you that sea squirt sashimi may never gain traction here. But “jeotgal” is something that can easily become an American staple. It is a category that denotes any fermented seafood. It can be anything from 40-day-old fish guts to a lighter, almost ceviche-like cold dish of oysters with chili and fish sauce. It is delicious as a condiment, added to a rice dish or served with fatty pork. And there are as many varieties as there are fish in the sea. When we think of Korean ingredients, we think of fermented products. But there are also many fresh herbs and vegetables that are becoming more widely available. Teardrop or hachiya persimmons, chrysanthemum leaves, and Asian pears are staples I see all the time now. One that is still rare but growing in popularity is “perilla”, leaves from the sesame tree. They are pungent, slightly minty, and bitter all at the same time. Traditionally used as a wrap or fermented into kimchee, the leaves also make a delicious addition to salads. Meanwhile, gochujang is the Korean ingredient Americans are most likely to encounter first. It is a fermented chili paste that is essential to many Korean dishes. It has yet to penetrate the typical household, but chefs have been using it for years to add depth to stews, glazes, and marinades. “Ssamjang” is its more complex (and less spicy) brother. It is a seasoned dipping sauce made from gochujang, garlic, sesame oil, and soybean paste. Typically it is used only as a condiment to barbecue, but it has so much more potential. I use it in gravy, in hummus, or just eat it with raw vegetables. And that is exactly why this sauce will gain in popularity here. Without the limiting blinders of tradition, American chefs will see it as a limitless pantry item. The misinterpretation of tradition can be a good thing, even essential, because it often leads to new ones—those we can claim as our own. Edward Lee is the chef and owner of multiple Louisville, Ky., restaurants, including 610 Magnolia and MilkWood. His first cookbook is “Smoke and Pickles.”

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From The Associated Press

INSPIRED ASIAN FUSION CUISINE

Korean side dishes, called “banchan,” at an Asian grocery store in Fairfax, Va.

The Salty, Rich Flavor of Jeotgal, Now Home Cook-Friendly AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

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There are many, many variations on “jeotgal,” a salty and fermented condiment that is a classic part of Korean cuisine. My recipe is simple enough for the home cook, yet delivers on the traditional bold flavors that are the hallmark of jeotgal. I love it with pork, DOLE08/ISTOCK but feel free to use it as a condiment for charcuterie, roasted fatty meats or just serve over rice with wilted vegetables. From The Associated Press


D11 Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org AP PH M O/ OT T AT HE

With nuances of mint, basil, and anise, perilla adds an aromatic punch to dishes.

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Perilla Leaves

Add Fresh Minty, Bitter Notes to Sweet Salad

By Edward Lee Korean perilla leaves have an overpowering flavor, so you’ll want to use them carefully. Here, they accent a fresh and crunchy salad with minty and bitter notes. You can also try them whole, as a wrap for meats. From The Associated Press. AP PHOTO/MATTHEW MEAD

RECIPE

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PERILLA LEAF AND PEAR SALAD WITH RICE VINEGAR DRESSING

(case sensitive)

The tomato mixture is easily prepped ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to serve.

Prep & Cooking Time: 20 minutes Serves: 2

Asian Restaurant Listings

INGREDIENTS For the Dressing • 1 1/2 tablespoons orange juice • 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice • 1 tablespoon rice vinegar • 1/2 tablespoon white miso • 1 teaspoon honey • 1 1/2 tablespoons grapeseed oil • 1 tablespoon sesame oil For the Salad • 1 or 2 baby romaine lettuce hearts • 6 fresh perilla leaves • 1 Asian pear • 1 radish, thinly shaved • 1/4 cup thinly shaved fennel • 1/2 cup cooked and chilled wheat berries • Kosher salt and ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS In a small bowl, whisk together the orange juice, lemon juice, vinegar, miso, and honey

RECIPE SPICY OYSTER JEOTGAL WITH PORK SAUSAGE The tomato mixture is easily prepped ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to serve.

Prep & Cooking Time: 2 1/2 hours (30 minutes active) Serves: 4

INGREDIENTS • 12 medium oysters (such as Blue Point) • 2 teaspoons kosher salt For the Marinade • 1/4 cup gochujang • 2 tablespoons sugar • 3 cloves garlic, minced • 1 tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger • 2 tablespoons low-sodium soy sauce • 2 tablespoons lemon juice • 1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce

until smooth. Slowly drizzle in the grapeseed and sesame oils while whisking vigorously. Reserve until ready to use. Tear the romaine lettuce leaves and toss in a large bowl. Tear the perilla leaves into small bite-size pieces and add to the bowl. Peel and dice the Asian pear and add. Add the shaved radish, fennel, and wheat berries. Add just enough of the vinaigrette to just moisten the salad ingredients. Toss gently, then taste. Season with salt and pepper. Divide evenly between 2 plates. Drizzle a little more vinaigrette around the plate.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 310 calories; 160 calories from fat (52 percent of total calories); 18 g fat (2 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholesterol; 290 mg sodium; 34 g carbohydrate; 6 g fiber; 7 g sugar; 5 g protein.

• • • • • • •

1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds 2 small serrano peppers, thinly sliced 1 scallion, thinly sliced 2 to 3 pork sausage links 1 cup cooked rice Boston or bibb lettuce leaves (to use as wraps)

DIRECTIONS Shuck the oysters into a medium bowl. Toss with the salt, then let stand at room temperature for 1 hour. Meanwhile, prepare the jeotgal. In a small saucepan over medium-high, combine the gochujang, sugar, garlic, ginger, soy sauce, lemon juice, fish sauce, sesame oil, sesame seeds, Serrano peppers, and scallion. Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat and set aside.

NUTRITION INFORMATION Nutrition information per serving: 390 calories; 210 calories from fat (54 percent of total calories); 24 g fat (7 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 60 mg cholesterol; 1,630 mg sodium; 31 g carbohydrate; 2 g fiber; 11 g sugar; 15 g protein.

UPPER WEST SIDE Raku—It’s Japanese II Featured Dishes: Sushi; Sashimi; Brussels Sprouts 57 W. 76th St. (btw. Central Park West & Columbus Ave.) 212-873-1220 | rakuupperwest.com

UPPER EAST SIDE Cafe Evergreen 1367 1st Ave. (btw. 73rd & 74th streets) 212-744-3266 cafeevergreenchinese.com The Nuaa Featured dishes: Purple Blossom Dumpling; Short Ribs Massaman Curry 1122 1st Ave. (btw. 61st & 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 | thenuaa.com

HELL’S KITCHEN/ MIDTOWN WEST Noodies 830 9th Ave. (btw. 54th & 55th streets) 646-669-7828 | noodiesnyc.com Vi{v} Bar & Restaurant Featured Dishes: Kanom Jean Nam Ngeow; CM Sausage 717 9th Ave. (btw. 48th & 49th streets) 212-581-5999 vivnyc.com Hell’s Chicken Featured Dish: Korean Fried Chicken 641 10th Ave. (btw. 45th & 46th streets) 212-757-1120 hellschickennyc.com

MIDTOWN EAST Shochu and Tapas - AYA 247 E. 50th St. (btw. 2nd & 3rd avenues) 212-715-0770 aya-nyc.com

THAI

INDIAN

KOREAN

CHINESE

JAPANESE

SOUTHEAST ASIAN

Sachi Asian Bistro Featured Dish: Oink Oink Oink Fried Rice 713 2nd Ave. (btw. 38th & 39th streets) 929-256-5167 sachinyc.com Ruay Thai Restaurant Featured Dishes: Pad Thai; Pad See Yew 625 2nd Ave. (btw. 34th & 35th streets) 212-545-7829 ruaythai.com

KOREATOWN Soju Haus 315 5th Ave., 2nd Fl. (btw. 31st & 32nd streets) 212-213-2177 | sojuhaus.com

GRAMERCY/FLATIRON/ UNION SQUARE Junoon Featured Dish: Masaledar Lamb Chops 27 W. 24th St. (btw. 5th & 6th avenues) 212-490-2100 junoonnyc.com Laut 15 E. 17th St. (btw. W. Union Sq. & Broadway) 212-206-8989 | lautnyc.com

KIPS BAY Momokawa Featured Dishes: Kaiseki menu; Beef Sukiyaki; Fried Chicken 157 E. 28th St. (btw. Lexington & 3rd avenues) 212-684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

WEST VILLAGE Spice Market Featured Special: $27 for a 3-course lunch prix-fixe menu. 403 W. 13th St. (btw. Washington St. & 9th Ave.) 212-675-2322 spicemarketnewyork.com

VIETNAMESE

SRI LANKAN

ASIAN FUSION

MALAYSIAN

Niu Noodle House Featured Dish: Pork Soup Dumplings 15 Greenwich Ave. (btw. 10th & Christopher streets) 212-488-9888 | niunoodleny.com

GREENWICH VILLAGE Uncle Ted’s 163 Bleecker St. (btw. Thompson & Sullivan streets) 212-777-1395 | uncletedsnyc.com

EAST VILLAGE SenYa Featured Dishes: SenYa Chirashi; Simmered Pork Belly Bun; Foie Gras Sushi 109 1st Ave. (btw. 7th & 6th streets) 212-995-5278 | senyanyc.com Sigiri 91 1st Ave. (btw. E. 5th & E. 6th streets) 212-614-9333 | sigirinyc.com

BATTERY PARK Malaysian Kitchen USA Featured Dish: Hainanese Chicken 21 South End Ave. (btw. W. Thames St. and the Esplanade) | 212-786-1888 alaysiakitchenusa.com

BROOKLYN Pasar Malam Featured specials: Malaysian food and roti station 208 Grand St. (btw. Bedford & Driggs avenues) Williamsburg 929-267-4404 | pasarmalamny.com

QUEENS Leng Thai 33-09 Broadway Astoria 718-956-7117 | lengthai.com Spicy Lanka 159-23 Hillside Ave. Jamaica 718-487-4499


D12 Aug. 7–13, 2015 www.TasteAsia.org ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

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Coconut-Poached Chicken Salad with mint, salted peanuts, and snow peas.

ALL YOUR FAVORITE Thai classics, plus a few unique V{iv} style twists NEW SAT & SUN BRUNCH at V{iv} Hell’s Kitchen location! 12 - 4 pm. Includes free soft drinks, coee/Thai Ice Tea ALL DAY HAPPY HOUR on Mon & Tues, 12-8 pm on Wed - Sun AMAZING PARTY EVENT SPACE, great place for a date or a fun night

v{iv} Bar & Restaurant

HELL’S KITCHEN .( /' $.0+ .( .( . 3 /)/+2% %,* MIDTOWN EAST .( $.0+ '1 -& 3 /)/.(#) %,*

鍔銗文人墨厢çš„ 芊ćƒ…é›…ć„? ( äşŒć¨“ ) ĺ“ ĺ‘łćœ?鎎王ćœ?çš„ 瞎味佳餚(三樓)

A Summertime Salad That Takes You East For an instantaneous journey to an exotic locale, Australian chef Chris Rendell of Flinders Lane in the East Village oers his recipe for Coconut-Poached Chicken Salad. The flavors of Asia figure prominently in Australian cuisine, and Rendell is adept at bringing them together in a delicious way. Get ready for all the dierent textures and pops of flavors—from fresh herbs like mint and cilantro, to the sublime coconut dressing (which doubles as a poaching liquid for the chicken) to the salty-sweet caramelized roasted peanuts.

Chef Chris Rendell of Flinders Lane.

RECIPE Experience Firsthand the Romantic Life of Korean Dynasty

COCONUT-POACHED CHICKEN SALAD WITH MINT, SALTED PEANUTS, AND SNOW PEAS Preparation Time: 55 minutes Serves: 4

South Korea’s top chef, Sunkyu Lee, cooks authentic Korean Royal Court Cuisine Totally different and distinctive cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd floors.

INGREDIENTS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

1 cup peanuts 4 chicken breasts, cleaned and skin off 1 2/3 cups coconut milk 13 teaspoons fish sauce (8 teaspoons for the peanuts, 5 teaspoons to poach the chicken) 8 teaspoons confectioners’ sugar 2.12 ounces palm sugar 1 tablespoon chili jam 5 teaspoons lime juice 2 red chilies, julienned 1/2 medium-sized coconut, white meat removed and grated 1 bunch scallions, cut in rounds 10 red shallots, finely sliced Lime leaf, cut in chiffonade (rolled tight and cut in long strips) Cilantro leaves, picked Vietnamese mint Fresh bean sprouts Snow peas, blanched and finely julienned Lime zest, minced

DIRECTIONS For the Peanuts Marinate the peanuts in fish sauce and confectioners’ sugar, just enough to coat the peanuts (use equal amounts of fish sauce and confectioners’ sugar). Allow to marinate for 20 minutes and roast them in the oven at 300 F until golden, about 15 minutes. (Note: once marinated, they can also be kept in an airtight container). To Poach the Chicken Place the chicken, coconut milk, palm sugar, and fish sauce in a saucepan, and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and poach gently for 10–12 minutes. Reserve the poaching liquid, which will be used as the coconut dressing.

212-594-4963 10 W 32 St, New York, NY 10001 www.misskoreabbq.com Open 24 Hours

To Assemble the Dish To the chicken, add red chilies, coconut, scallions, shallots, lime leaf, blanched and sliced snow peas, minced lime zest, cilantro, mint, and bean sprouts. Stir to mix well. Top with coconut dressing and roasted peanuts.


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