ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
D1 September 16–22, 2016
French Classics Go Vegan on D8
www.EpochTaste.com
The USS Wisconsin, a battleship that served in several conflicts since World War II, is docked on the banks of the Elizabeth River and open for the public to explore. ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Town Point Park, located right on the waterfront, offers stunning sunset views.
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Handsome Biscuit makes some mean biscuit sandwiches out of sweet potato.
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Le Grand Kitchen creates fun, Southern-inspired dishes with Virginia produce. This tilefish dish, with Surry sausage, okra, sweet corn, clams, and padrón peppers, brings to mind New Orleans-style jambalaya.
COURTESY OF VISITNORFOLK
The Elizabeth River gently ripples, casting a spell on locals and visitors alike.
Nautical Norfolk A city rooted in naval history and delectable seafood By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff
N
ORFOLK, Va.—Back in the colonial days of America, English settlers realized that the Elizabeth River in Virginia could become the lifeblood of a city. Its natural harbor and connection to Chesapeake Bay made it an important hub for trade.
T R AV E LS
Today, that city, Norfolk, still strongly embraces its identity as a waterfront town. Its gentle, flowing waters cast a spell on locals and visitors alike. As one Norfolk resident said, “The river has a calming effect on everyone.” Easily accessible through streets that lead straight to the water’s edge, the river provides a momentary reprieve from whatever is troubling your mind. Here, you can let your guard down, get lost in the serene sunset views, and savor the quieter, less-chaotic rhythm of a small city.
See Norfolk on D2
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF VISITNORFOLK
The Norfolk skyline.
Nautical Norfolk Norfolk continued from D1 But the city is not all looks. As one of the country’s earliest settled areas (the city is less than 60 miles from Jamestown and Williamsburg), Norfolk has a rich colonial history, seen in its military presence—the world’s largest naval station is housed here—and charming historic neighborhoods filled with colonial architecture, like the Ghent and Freemason districts. Despite its village-like size, Norfolk has plenty to see and do. In the past few years, the city has witnessed a growing arts scene, contributing to the revival of some parts of town, and the emergence of fun eateries beyond steakhouses and chain restaurants.
Here, you can savor the quieter, less chaotic rhythm of a small city.
PLACES TO VISIT The Downtown Waterfront Boasting excellent views of the Elizabeth River, Town Point Park is lined with a boardwalk along the waterfront for leisurely strolls. Also located on the park is the Nauticus museum, which houses an aquarium, a naval history museum (with exhibits tracing why Norfolk’s waterways became a strategic military position), and the USS Wisconsin battleship (which served in several conflicts, most recently Operation Desert Storm, before it was decommissioned). The entire battleship is open for people to explore and learn how naval officers spend
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Norfolk’s proximity to the Chesapeake Bay means access to amazing seafood. A.W. Shuck’s, a local haunt, makes a hearty Oyster Stew with mashed potatoes in a cream chowder, sprinkled with bacon and vegetables.
Norfolk is home to the world’s largest naval station.
time in such tight quarters. Docked on the banks of the river is the Victory Rover, which brings visitors on a cruise ship to tour the harbor and the Norfolk naval station. A seasoned guide narrates how Norfolk’s port developed over time and explains the capabilities of different ships docked at the naval base. Nauticus.org NavalBaseCruises.com Chrysler Museum and the Neon District The Chrysler Museum of Art houses one of the world’s largest glass collections, with more than 10,000 glass objects from ancient civilizations to today. Some of the most memorable pieces are exquisite works of Tiffany glass. The museum also has a collection of ancient and contemporary art, including a poignant photo exhibit on women who took part in the civil rights movement. (The exhibit runs until Oct. 30.) Across the street from the museum, the Chrysler Museum Glass Studio regularly offers glassmaking classes and free demonstrations of glass blowing. A couple of blocks away, the city’s newly commissioned Neon arts district (transformed from an industrial part of town) gives artists space to showcase their work. The district is full of art galleries, live performances, and vibrantly colored mural art.
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Norfolk’s streets lead right into the water, providing access to panoramic harbor views. This photo was taken near the Pagoda and Oriental Garden in the Freemason District.
If you get hungry after all that art-viewing, stop by Zeke’s Beans and Bowls, a casual cafe with delicious, freshly pressed juices, Intelligentsia coffee, and an eclectic menu drawing from places around the world that the owners—who are avid surfers—have visited. One such dish is the Southern Loco Moco, a play on the Hawaiian rice dish, with sunny side up egg, Southern-style sausage gravy, and Spanish chorizo—a trifecta of creamy, piquant, and spicy ($6.50). Chrysler.org NeonNFK.com Facebook.com/ZekesNFK MacArthur Memorial and Downtown Area The influential war general Douglas MacArthur is buried in Norfolk because his family’s roots lie here. The memorial houses an extensive exhibit that chronicles MacArthur’s career, from his early days in West Point Military Academy to commanding U.S. forces in the Asia–Pacific region during World War II and directing the occupation of Japan. The exhibit opens a window into the general’s private life, with family mementos like his wedding invitation card and gifts he received while in Asia. The downtown area also has a large shopping mall named after MacArthur. The main thoroughfare, Granby Street, is home to many restaurants. Field Guide is a great spot for flavorful, veggie-filled salads, rice bowls, and sandwiches. The Marrakeshy bowl is a combination of crunchy textures (chickpeas, nuts, carrots, pickled red cabbage, leafy greens), creamy horseradish aioli, and pecorino cheese ($7.50). Add housemade soda and addictive sweet potato chips for a full meal. MacArthurMemorial.org FieldGuide.is Ghent The Ghent neighborhood, named after the Belgian city where the United States and Britain signed the treaty to end the War of 1812, is lined with boutique shops, restaurants, bars, and breweries. A walk through the area takes you past old townhouses still standing from the city’s era of seafaring merchants and sailors. The Ten Top serves enormous sandwiches that satisfy, such as the Pulled Pork BBQ Sandwich, with Carolina-style, vinegar-based barbecue pork braised for eight hours, topped with fresh slaw and hot sauce ($7.95). This sandwich is so laden with fillings, you’ll have to eat it with a fork. TheTenTop.com
Traditional and modern, combined. A new standard for Thai food.
The Nuaa
❧
1122 1st Ave. (btw 61st and 62nd streets) 212-888-2899 • thenuaa.com
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF VISITNORFOLK
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
An appetizer of perfectly charred figs and peaches, mingling with blue cheese, hazelnuts, and mint, from Le Grand Kitchen.
Mermaid Winery sources grapes from vineyards in Virginia and California. COURTESY OF VISITNORFOLK
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Shopping at Kitsch, a boutique shop in the historic Ghent District.
Funky pimento cheese on toasted brioche.
MORE PLACES TO EAT
sweet yet briny crabmeat from the bay ($34). It’s drizzled with lemon butter for extra velvety texture. For dessert, try the homemade pecan pie, with a chocolaty filling and brown sugar cinnamon ice cream ($10). ToddJurichsBistro.com
COURTESY OF VISITNORFOLK
Brewmasters at work at the Smartmouth Brewing Co., a craft brewery in Norfolk. ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Todd Jurich’s Bistro Todd Jurich’s Bistro takes a New American approach to local seafood, featuring seasonal fish and shellfish dishes influenced by the diverse cuisines that inform America’s palate. The she-crab “chowda,” the restaurant’s rendition of a classic Southern soup, goes for a tomato-based, peppery stew instead of the usual bisque-like preparation ($11). An appetizer of seared foie gras, called Our French Kiss, was also delightful. Paired with Armagnac-soaked cherries, goat cheese ice cream, and johnny cakes, the dish is an imaginative contrast of buttery richness with tart, sweet, and savory. For the ultimate crab dish, get the Carolina Sea Bass and Lump Crab Norfolk, a slab of lightly seasoned, seared North Carolina sea bass beside a heap of the most unbelievably
Le Grand Kitchen Le Grand Kitchen uses Virginia’s local produce to create fun, Southern-inspired dishes. The atmosphere, too, is casual and lively, with patrons of all ages. For appetizers, you can taste the simple goodness of perfectly charred figs and peaches, mingling with blue cheese, hazelnuts, and mint ($10); funky pimento cheese on toasted brioche ($6); or a deviled egg “schmear”—cooked egg yolks blended into a smooth paste with smoked paprika and chives, addictive when spread on Ritz crackers ($6). The seasonal tilefish entree with Surry sausage, okra, sweet corn, clams, and padron peppers brings to mind New Orleans-style jambalaya, but with a more concentrated broth—full of smoky, oceanic umami ($22). LeGrandKitchen.com Handsome Biscuit Make sure to visit this spot for breakfast. The sweet potato biscuits are ingenious, as the sweet potato prevents the pastry from becoming dry and crumbly, giving it a soft, chewy texture with a hint of sweetness. The Shorty biscuit sandwich, with over-easy eggs and
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
A.W. Shuck’s Norfolk’s proximity to Chesapeake Bay means access to amazing seafood. A.W. Shuck’s is an old-school seafood restaurant and local haunt that serves fresh shellfish, the daily catch, and grilled steaks. But you’re here to taste the sea’s bounty, like the Oyster Stew, a mighty heap of plump oysters and mashed potatoes in a cream chowder, sprinkled with bacon and vegetables ($12.95). Hearty but not overly rich, the dish highlights the sweetness of the oysters. Phone: 757-664-9117
cheese, is popular ($3.50), but the Dill Na Na is a fantastic combination of onion-potato frittata with tangy dill mayo ($4.75). HandsomeBiscuit.com
Getting ice cream at Doumar’s is a must. The restaurant’s first proprietor invented the ice cream cone.
Doumar’s Cones and Barbecue Stepping into Doumar’s is like traveling back in time to the height of American diners and drive-in restaurants. Surprisingly, the prices also haven’t changed much (all under $6). Since 1904, the restaurant has been serving North Carolina-style barbecue, hot dogs, burgers, and ice cream—made famous because its first owner, Abe Doumar, invented the world’s first waffle cone. To this day, the cones are made by hand ($2.10 for one scoop, $3.10 for two). Doumars.com
The Ten Top’s Pulled Pork BBQ Sandwich, with Carolinastyle, vinegarbased barbecue pork braised for eight hours, is so laden with filling, you’ll have to eat it with a fork.
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
ANNIE WU/EPOCH TIMES
Todd Jurich’s Bistro takes a New American approach to local seafood. The highlight of this Carolina Sea Bass and Lump Crab Norfolk dish is the heap of unbelievably sweet crab meat from the Chesapeake Bay.
Located on Granby Street, Field Guide is a great spot for flavorful, veggie-filled salads, like this Marrakeshy bowl, with chickpeas, nuts, carrots, pickled red cabbage, leafy greens, horseradish aioli, and pecorino cheese.
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF MORGENSTERN’S
HARVEST IN THE SQUARE To benefit Union Square Partnership, chefs from Union Square’s restaurants will prepare a grand dinner with produce from the Union Square Greenmarket. Participating restaurants include Blue Water Grill, The Gander, Breads Bakery, Laut, Union Square Cafe, Union Fare, The Pavilion, Junoon, and more. Pairings with regional wines and microbrews will be available. $125 to $150 per person.
stuff to eat and drink around nyc
Thursday, Sept. 22 7 p.m. North Plaza, Union Square Park HarvestInTheSquare.nyc
The Yin Yang flavor, with white corn and black coconut ash ice cream.
NYC HONEY FEST
COURTESY OF MORGENSTERN’S
Held at Rockaway Beach every year, the Honey Fest has returned with all things bee-related. Attendees can enjoy honey from farms in the tri-state area, shop beeswax cosmetics, and learn from educational demos. Children can also participate in face painting and bee hat making, and watch honey-extraction demos.
SIP AND SPLASH ON THE HUDSON RIVER In partnership with Manhattan Kayak Company, Kimpton Ink48 Hotel is offering guests exclusive access to the Hudson River with coastline kayak tours and stand-up paddleboard tours. Packages include a visit to the hotel for a wine hour after the water activities. $40 to $80 per person.
Saturday, Sept. 17 11 a.m.–5 p.m. 8601 Shore Front Parkway Boardwalk 86th Street, Rockaway Beach NYCHoneyWeek.com
Through Sept. 30 Pier 84, Hudson River Park Ink48.com
The Cuba Liebrandt flavor, with rum ice cream and Coke sorbet. COURTESY OF DA TOMMY OSTERIA
VEGETARIAN DINNER AT DA TOMMY OSTERIA
MORGENSTERN’S SOFT SERVE BY CHEF PAUL LIEBRANDT
West Village’s Da Tommy Osteria will collaborate with the Green Thumb Farm in Long Island to present a six-course vegetarian dinner featuring organic produce. Dishes will include Beets Carpaccio, with heirloom beets, aged goat cheese, herb salad, and balsamic vinaigrette; Zucchini Cake with Parmesan fondue and truffle; and Trofie Basil Pesto, the signature dish of chef Tommaso Roncari, featuring Genovese-style pesto, with potatoes and string beans. $45 per person ($25 for organic wine pairings).
Chef Paul Liebrandt (formerly of The Elm and Corton) has created limited-edition soft serve flavors for Morgenstern’s ice cream shop. The flavors are Cuba Liebrandt, with rum ice cream and Coke sorbet with lime zest (until Sept. 18); PLLV, salted caramel and tahini ice cream with sesame seeds (from Sept. 19 to 25); and Tour Pine’Our, sunchoke ice cream and strawberry hibiscus sorbet with toasted hazelnuts (from Sept. 26 to Oct. 2). Morgenstern’s Finest Ice Cream 2 Rivington St. (between Bowery & Chrystie Street) MorgensternsNYC.com
Monday, Sept. 19 7 p.m. Da Tommy Osteria 14 Bedford St. (between Downing Street & Sixth Avenue) DaTommy.com/greenthumb
Trofie Basil Pesto.
COURTESY OF GREAT BIG FOOD EVENTS COURTESY OF GREAT BIG FOOD EVENTS
HAUTE PRIVATE EVENTS
COURTESY OF GREAT BIG FOOD EVENTS
There are private events in Manhattan, and then there are private events at Cava Nerai. Head downstairs to our new romantic stone wine cellar— born from the idea to provide you with the finest setting possible for private events. Whether you’re having a business meeting with partners, entertaining those special clients, or throwing the perfect baby shower, Cava Nerai has the customizable space you need—and an excellent wine selection sure to make the occasion memorable.
At last year’s Great Big Bacon Picnic.
GREAT BIG BACON PICNIC 55 E 55th St. New York, NY 10022 NeraiNYC.com
212.759.5554
This bacon fest will feature over 100 restaurants, food trucks, brewmasters, and distillers. Participating chefs will create bacon-filled dishes, while craft beers and spirits will be available for imbibing. Restaurants will include Kavala Estiatorio, P.J. Clarke’s, Xixa, Kingsley, Tres Carnes, Veselka, Roni-Sue’s Chocolates, and many more. $79 to $249 per person. Saturday, Sept. 24 & Sunday, Sept. 25 Old Pfizer Factory 630 Flushing Ave., Brooklyn GreatBigBacon.com
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com VICTORIA MORRIS
GLUTEN-FREE CAKE AT MAMAN
SHORT RIB MEALS AT QUALITY MEATS
The popular French bakery Maman is offering its first ever gluten-free option, thanks to a collaboration with Erin McKenna’s vegan, gluten-free bakery. Maman’s Banana Chocolate Marble Cake is made with ripe bananas, agave, and chickpea and fava bean flour. $3.95 per slice.
Quality Meats executive chef Antonio Mora has created two large-format meals featuring short rib, inspired by late night ventures to the Lower East Side’s Great N.Y. Noodletown and Katz’s Delicatessen. The Chinatown includes char siu short ribs with housemade pickles and steamed buns. The L.E.S., with corned beef-style short ribs, is served on rye bread with half-sour pickles, Russian dressing, and sauerkraut. $54 per person, minimum 2 people.
MamanNYC.com All NYC locations
Quality Meats 57 W. 58th St. (between Fifth & Sixth avenues) QualityMeatsNYC.com
COURTESY OF QUALITY MEAT
JASON GREENSPAN
A LA CARTE MENU AT TEISUI Japanese yakitori (grilled chicken) restaurant Teisui has launched an a la carte menu to complement its multicourse tasting menu. Diners can choose from a variety of yakitori skewers: from chicken breasts, tails, and gizzards to chicken meatballs. Nigiri sushi options include uni, bluefin tuna, yellowtail, and salmon. Also available are rice bowls with uni, yakitori, or sashimi. Teisui 246 Fifth Ave. (entrance on 28th Street) Teisui.NYC
Quality Meat’s char siu short ribs.
Teisui’s yakitori skewers.
@THREADSALT
UNION FARE BRUNCH Union Fare, the recently opened restaurant and bakery, is now serving brunch. Executive chef Yvan Lemoine’s creations include the Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich with apple sausage, egg, and cheese on a cinnamon roll with bacon glaze; Brunch Bolognese with lamb ragu, nori, bonito flakes, egg, and shaved Parmesan; and Grain Bowl, whole grains and beans with pollo pibil, guacamole, salsa, crema, and fried eggs.
@THREADSALT
(Left) Corn Pancakes with Burrata.
Union Fare 5-7 E. 17th St. (between Broadway & Fifth Avenue) UnionFare.com
(Right) Union Fare’s Ultimate Breakfast Sandwich.
夏のメニュー
WAFFLE CROQUE MADAME AT LOOSIE’S KITCHEN
SUMMER PLATES AT DONGURI
Loosie’s Kitchen in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, is serving the ultimate brunch sandwich: the Waffle Croque Madame. Country ham and cheese are sandwiched between two waffles, then topped with béchamel sauce and a sunny side up egg. $15. Saturdays & Sundays Noon–4 p.m. Loosie’s Kitchen 91 S. Sixth St., Brooklyn (between Berry Street & Wythe Avenue) LoosiesKitchen.com
A sampling of our summer menu
Sweet Corn Tempura Grilled Black Cod Marinated with White Miso Traditional Clear Soup COURTESY OF TREADWELL PARK
Mochidoki Ice Cream Matcha Green Tea, Salted Caramel, Passion Fruit
Treadwell Park’s Giant Pretzel. COURTESY OF TREADWELL PARK
OKTOBERFEST AT TREADWELL PARK This Upper East Side beer hall will celebrate Oktoberfest with special dishes you can pair with its selection of German regional beers: the Giant Schnitzel with potato wedges; the Treadwell Park Wurst Sampler, with Schaller & Weber’s bratwurst and knackwurst, served with sauerkraut and warm potato salad; and the Berliner, a traditional German doughnut filled with raspberry jam. There will be a beer stein-hoisting contest with prizes for the winners. Through Friday, Oct. 14 Treadwell Park 1125 First Ave. (at 62nd Street) TreadwellPark.com
Donguri Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.
Berliners, donuts filled with raspberry jam.
RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)
Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff
Chef Yamasaki
Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC
OLEG MARCH
Ascent Lounge Located on the fourth floor of Time Warner Center, Ascent Lounge is the latest concept by husband-and-wife team Brian and Carrie Packin. With views of Central Park and Columbus Circle, the 5,500-square-foot space offers a sophisticated setting for cocktails as well as private events. Cocktails range from the seasonal, like the Ginger Mint Mojito; to “wanderlust cocktails” inspired by beach vibes, with tequila, rum, or mezcal as the base; to twists on classics, such as the Manhattan Mule, made with bourbon. Small plates such as Miso Lobster Rolls and Marinated New Zealand Lamb Lollipops complement the cocktails.
Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.
246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866
The Ascent Cocktail.
Time Warner Center 10 Columbus Circle, Fourth Floor 212-823-9770 AscentLoungeNYC.com
COURTESY OF CELLAR 335
Cellar 335 At Cellar 335, chef and owner Jamie Knott (who owns Saddle River Inn, in Saddle River, New Jersey) pairs Asian-influenced American fare with tiki cocktails. The food menu offers dishes such as Crack Fries (with Nueske’s bacon, scallion, and cheese sauce) and Korean Style Wings in either spicy maple chipotle or lime soy garlic. The cocktails are from mixology duo Joshua Fossitt and Guillermo Bravo (The NoMad, Featherweight, and Weather Up). Examples are the Thick With Thieves (Damoiseau 110 rum, Plantation Barbados rum, gardenia, Velvet Falernum, orange, and lime), and The Fightin’ Five (Sombra mezcal, Ancho Reyes, orgeat, lemon, and cayenne). Open Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m. to 2 a.m.
COURTESY OF GORDO’S CANTINA
Asian-Style Hummus.
335 Newark Ave. (between Fourth & Fifth streets) Jersey City, N.J. 201-222-1422 Cellar335.com
Gordo’s Cantina After incarnations as a pop-up at events such as Hester Street Fair and the HBO Bryant Park Summer Film Festival, Gordo’s Cantina will open a brick-and-mortar location in Long Island City on Sept. 21. It focuses on the traditional street food of Mexico. Open daily from 11 a.m. to midnight.
24-11 Queens Plaza North Long Island City, Queens GordosCantina.com El Chapo Danger Dog.
COURTESY OF B2 HARLEM
B2 Harlem Seafood restaurant B2 Harlem is now open, with executive chef John Creger at the helm. The upscale casual restaurant will offer a smallbatch cocktail program.
271 W. 119th St. (between Frederick Douglass Boulevard & St. Nicholas Avenue) Harlem B2Harlem.com
We, at Hatsuhana, realize that it is rare to find a “no gimmicks, no frills” approach to sushi. Sushi is a conceptually simple cuisine. Ironically, its simplicity also makes it complicated. Hatsuhana salutes the centuries-old methods used by prominent sushi restaurants and chefs in Japan. P H O T O S : E DWA R D D A I
Obsessive Attention to Detail T
he single inspiration that lead to the establishment of Hatsuhana was nothing more than the desire to introduce unsurpassed sushi and sashimi to New Yorkers. Since the first day we opened our doors in 1976, we have been a sushi specialty restaurant. This has helped us maintain our focus exclusively on sushi cuisine.
212.355.3345 www.hatsuhana.com 17 East 48th St, New York (btwn. Madison & Fifth Ave.)
Nearly four decades later, our mission remains unchanged. Obsessive attention to detail should be the norm for sushi restaurants, not something to strive for. The complexity associated with creating the ideal sushi rice. The fragrance of freshly ground wasabi. The freshest fish from around the globe.
Seafood platter.
Harlem Shake Burger and milkshake spot Harlem Shake has opened a second outpost in East Harlem. Dishes specific to the new location include the Pulled Pernil Sandwich with sour orange mojo, refried black beans, and chipotle mayo; Frita Cubana, a seasoned pork and beef patty topped with shoestring fries; and Tostones,
Please come by for lunch or dinner and let us show you what real sushi is like!
served with mojo and chipotle dips. Open daily from 8 a.m.
2162 Second Ave. (at East 111th Street) East Harlem 212-222-8311 HarlemShakeNYC.com
Compiled by Channaly Philipp/Epoch Times Staff
The Sou ffle Fell In the article “What’s Coming to NYC This Fall,” printed on Sept. 9, the restaurant name wagamama was misspelled. Also the address for Blake Lane was incorrectly stated; it is 1429 Third Ave. Epoch Times regrets the errors.
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY AP PHOTO/ROBERT F. BUKATY
There are the restaurants you go to, and
The Restaurant You Go Back to.
I
n 1944, Pasquale Scognamillo, known to all as Patsy, began serving the food-loving public earthy, authentic Neapolitan recipes. Today his son Joe, and grandsons Sal and Frank continue the tradition for their regular longtime local guests, out-of-towners
and the many celebrities who consider Patsy’s Italian Restaurant their Manhattan dining room. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Also available, pre-fixe luncheon menu noon till 3 p.m. ($35) and pre-theatre menu 3 p.m. till 7 p.m. ($59).
Patsy’s Italian Restaurant @PatsysItalRest @PatsysItalianRestaurant
236 West 56th Street Our Only (212) 247-3491 Location! www.Patsys.com
(Above) Peter Busque cuts hops from tall trellises during the harvest at the Hamblen Farm in Gorham, Maine. (Left) Charlie Hamblen feeds hops into a machine that strips the flower from the plant at his farm in Gorham. (Below left) A farm sign in Gorham, Maine, marks a field of hops, which are typically grown in Oregon. (Below) Hop flowers.
Authentic Japanese GMO FREE
When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.
Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more)
Hop Growers Look to New Parts of US to Slake Thirst for Crop By Patrick Whittle GORHAM, Maine—Geoff Keating grows a prized plant at the northeastern edge of the country, some 3,000 miles away from the region of America most associated with his crop—hops. Americans’ growing thirst for bitter, flavorpacked styles of beer has brought an unprecedented demand for hops, so growers are looking to new places to harvest its flowers. Hops are used to provide bitterness, aroma, and flavor to beer. In the U.S., the vast majority are grown in Washington state, with significant numbers grown in Oregon and Idaho. But hop growers in states like Michigan, New York, and Maine, where Geoff Keating runs the Hop Yard farm in Gorham and Fort Fairfield, are starting to ramp up production. The growth dovetails with craft beer’s growth, and its passion for using local ingredients. “As far as Maine-grown hops, anything done at good quality that’s coming out of Maine is being used by brewers,” Keating said. “We have limited supply.” The demand for hops is high, in part, because of America’s obsession with India pale ales, which use large amounts of hops to create flavors and aromas that recall fruit and pine. Total U.S. hop acreage grew by almost 20 percent to more than 53,000 acres this year, according to the Hop Growers of America. And brewers still often gripe about shortages of some hop varieties. In the U.S., the amount of acreage outside of the Pacific Northwest states grew from less than 900 in 2014 to more than 1,200 last year to nearly 2,100 this year, the growers association noted. Michigan’s acreage doubled to 650 this year, and Wisconsin’s grew by nearly 75 percent to almost 300 acres. “We are certainly getting a lot of calls from people saying they would like to be hop growers,” said Jaki Brophy, spokeswoman for the growers association. “There has been an interest in growing outside of the Pacific Northwest.”
The demand for hops is high, in part, because of America’s obsession with India pale ales.
Prices for hops have also been high in recent years, even as the total amount of hop acreage and pounds of hops produced hits record highs. The price of hops can vary widely based on the variety—there are hundreds, some of which are proprietary—but the average price of U.S. hops rose from $3.67 to $4.38 per pound last year. The availability of hops can be a concern for brewers, especially those who trade in hoppy beer, and local growing can help make a difference, said Tim Adams, brewmaster of Oxbow Beer, in Portland, Maine. “The collective palate of the world is way into very hoppy beers—IPAs and double IPA,” Adams said. “It’s a naturally limited resource and demand seems to be increasing at a rate that is much greater than supply.” The production outside of the Pacific Northwest hasn’t yet reached the level where it can make a dramatic impact on the national hop trade. And big brewers like Anheuser-Busch are potentially less impacted by fluctuations in the availability of hops. Anheuser-Busch also operates its own hops farms, in the U.S., Germany, and Argentina. The growth of hops in places like Michigan and Maine is unlikely to affect the company or other beer giants. But Bart Watson, chief economist with the Brewers Association, which represents 3,200 beer makers from bucket brewing operations to regional players, said the spread of hops around the country reflects a growing interest in locally sourced beer. He expects the trend to continue. Pat Tiernan, chief operating office of Escondido, Calif.-based Stone Brewing Company, said it’s possible that hops grown outside of traditional areas might impart a slightly different flavor or aroma. He said players in craft beer are watching. “In new areas, you’ve got to keep your ear to the ground,” he said. From The Associated Press
• Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu (Sauté meals cooked at the table)
• Dessert
$48/per person A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)
Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com
2nd Location
CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote
Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain
Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque Juicy Lamb Chops
718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES
Made with smoked tofu and white truffle, the housemade vegan Foie Gras, served with red fig jam and onion jam, is a must.
(Clockwise from top) Lavender-infused rice pudding; Poulet Basquaise; Crème de Carotte; Escargots Beurre Maître d'Hotel; and Foie Gras.
(L–R) Crème de Carotte; Boeuf Bourguignon.
WHEN FRENCH CLASSICS GO VEGAN By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff t Délice & Sarrasin, you’ll find mainstays of French home cooking—cassoulet, coq au vin, boeuf bourguignon. The twist is, they’re all vegan. The Caron Soriano family, which runs the restaurant, happens to hail from the meatloving region of Toulouse, in the southwestern part of France, rich in duck and goose dishes. There, hearty cassoulets and fatty foie gras reign. The West Village restaurant started off with a focus on crepes—including savory “galettes” that they would make vegan at any guest’s request. The crepes remain, but now the new menu embraces French classics, overseen by executive chef Yvette Caron Soriano. Her son Christophe is often in the front of the house, receiving guests. With his tall frame, he has to duck around the chandelier hanging from the middle of the ceiling. The whole family is vegan, motivated by a concern for the welfare of animals as well as for their personal health. Over the last year, Yvette has been testing the recipes on non-vegan friends, without telling them. For the most part, they didn’t even realize they were eating vegan dishes. The one clear exception was the salmon steak, which is bound on the outside by seaweed—in the guise of fish skin. But it’s far easier to get vegan products of high quality here in the United States than in France, according to Christophe, with the possible exception of vegan cheese. When he was in Paris recently,
Cassoulet Toulousain.
Délice & Sarrasin
20 Christopher St. (between Waverly Place & Gay Street) West Village 212-243-7200 DeliceSarrasin.com Hours Daily 10 a.m.–11 p.m.
he faced a dearth of options—like french fries and salad. Yvette doesn’t shy away from turning even foie gras—that stalwart of Toulouse cuisine— vegan. Made with smoked tofu, it has a silky soft creaminess, more along the lines of mousse of foie gras; and with some spices and a bit of white truffle, there’s nothing in flavor to miss from the real thing (Foie Gras Vegan, $15). Served on the side, the homemade onion jam adds a sweet contrast, while the red fig jam has a delightful grainy texture. Another great starter is the Crème de Carotte aux Lentilles Corail ($11), made of pink lentils and carrots and served on bread slathered with a coconut-based vegan butter, with no uncertain amount of garlic. The Caron Sorianos are particular about finding high-quality products. They searched and tested a variety of vegan butters before ordering the particular brand they now use, flown in from California. The Escargots Beurre Maître d’Hôtel ($12) (snails) are actually slices of oyster mushrooms. It’s a clever move. The appeal of the dish was never in the texture of the snails (rubbery at worst, and usually not memorable), but in the accompanying sauce. Here it’s again prepared with coconut-based vegan butter, along with parsley, shallots, and lots of (and lots more) garlic. “I’m a little Mediterranean,” said Yvette, by way of explanation. As for fake meats, they’re made with soy and vegetable fibers. For example, Yvette brought out the cassoulet dish. “Here is a pork sausage— normally; duck—normally,” she pointed, along with long-simmered white beans (Cassoulet
Toulousain, $25). The Poulet Basquaise ($22), with spicy vegan chorizo and vegan chicken legs, is served with couscous, peppers, onions, and tomatoes. A meat eater could probably tell that vegan meat doesn’t fall apart the same way as real meat does when cut into—but the flavors are right on, and Yvette has a good hand with spices. She loves to cook. “I enjoy knowing that people are enjoying themselves,” she said. The restaurant is small and cozy, in a mostly gray palette, with some pops of lively red. One of the exposed brick walls is covered with family photos, and old-time French music plays in the background. For dessert, you can pick from sweet crepes ($10) to vegan rice pudding, intensely floral with its infusion of lavender ($10), to éclairs ($4)—all, of course, vegan.
Vegan grilled salmon with Brussels sprouts and tartar sauce.
(L–R) Yvette, Christophe, and Patrick Caron Soriano run Délice & Sarrasin.
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY CHARLIE RIEDEL/AP
Big Food’s Biggest Trend? Crusading Against Big Food By Candice Choi
K
ANSAS CITY, Mo.—Gathered for a free music festival, a crowd waits to see one of the headline attractions—an exhibit about fast-food ingredients. On display: Beakers of powders and liquids that purportedly go into what is clearly meant to look like a McDonald’s burger. Just below are leaves and spices that Chipotle says make up its burrito. As pop bands perform nearby, other festivalgoers play an online game fighting a “galactic battle against artificial ingredients.” Chipotle’s “Cultivate” festivals encapsulate the food industry’s hottest marketing trend: crusading against Big Food. While the burrito maker still struggles to recover from an E. coli outbreak last year, its previous success in presenting itself as a reformer has led companies big and small to follow suit as they seek part of the $256 billion that Americans spend on fast food each year. But some are positioning themselves as advocates for change before accomplishing some health goals, and skeptics say even well-intentioned marketing can be a disingenuous way to help people rationalize overeating. The message is aimed at those who feel the established food system is to blame for poor eating habits, and tries to engage them to feel like allies rather than customers. “Identifying who the enemy is” can be a key part of effective marketing, says branding consultant Laura Ries. Salad chain Sweetgreen’s campaign to fix what it calls the “broken” food system asks people to join its “movement” and borrows selfhelp language in saying the first step is “admitting there’s a problem.” Panera has challenged other chains to make kids’ meals without artificial ingredients, although it hadn’t done so itself at the time. This kind of marketing has even changed the way the industry’s giants talk about themselves. McDonald’s unveiled a food “philosophy” this summer and announced it was eliminating some unpalatable-sounding ingredients. Wendy’s casts itself as part of the “farm-to-fork, fast-food trend,” and Taco Bell, which has been testing a taco shell made out of fried chicken, refers to “the farms that make our food.” Among the about 18,000 attendees at Chipotle’s festival this summer in Kansas City, 21-year-old Mario Curiale said he was taking in the company-sponsored exhibits with some skepticism. But he liked that Chipotle was encouraging interest in food.
While more attention on food issues may be progress, some see it as a way to distract people with feel-good messages.
The lines between market and advocacy have become blurred.
People walk past a display at the Cultivate Festival.
Chipotle’s Cultivate festivals encapsulate the food industry’s hottest marketing trend: crusading against Big Food.
“I don’t think high school did a really good job on educating us on these sort of issues. If you’re interested, you have to go out and learn it yourself,” he said. While more attention on food issues may be progress, some see it as a way to distract people with feel-good messages. “It can be well-intentioned marketing, but it’s still marketing,” said Yoni Freedhoff, an obesity expert at the University of Ottawa. Obesity is being fueled in part by people eating out more often, Freedhoff said, with restaurants typically serving up decadent portions. Touting wholesome ingredients doesn’t address that, he noted, and may even make it worse by blinding people to how much they’re consuming. In issuing its challenge to improve kids’ meals, Panera also decried marketing gimmicks, then launched digital ads featuring children’s voices trying to explain items like “sodium benzoate.” Much smaller competitors are joining in. Local, which touts its “revolutionary fast food” in two low-income California locations, says “giant corporations that feed most of America have degraded our communities by maximizing profit.” “Let’s plant the seeds and wake people up!!!” its website urges, alongside menus listing “Chicken Nugs” for $3. The company did not respond to requests for details about its sourcing. In Colorado, entrepreneur Kimbal Musk plans a fast-food restaurant as part of his push to create a “real food culture.” Musk, the brother of tech mogul Elon Musk, already has several sit-down restaurants and blames processed foods low in nutrients for leaving people “fat and starving.” The blurring of marketing and advocacy has popped up among packaged food makers, too. Kind, which makes snack and meal bars out of fruits and nuts, recently launched a group for dietitians who want to discuss nutrition topics. The company also sees it as an opportunity to boost sales by offering the dietitians tips for incorporating its bars into people’s diets. Chipotle remains an adept practitioner of the strategy, even as it employs some loopholes. It announced last year that it rid its menu of genetically modified ingredients, but serves Coca-Cola sodas made with high-fructose corn syrup. It describes its meat as “responsibly raised,” an unregulated term that lets animals eat GMO feed. The company says most customers simply like its food. But while its touting of quality ingredients and ethical sourcing practices may have helped sales, that positioning may also partly explain its lagging sales since an E. coli outbreak last year: Staking its reputation to the superior quality of its ingredients can make any missteps more devastating. Chipotle, which was spun off by McDonald’s in 2006 and has more than 2,000 outlets, raked in more than $4.5 billion in sales last year but still defines itself as an outsider. A billboard at the Cultivate festival headlined “FACTS” stated: “Nope, Chipotle is not owned by McDonald’s.” Though free music was the draw for many attendees, the chance to earn a burrito sent them to see the exhibits. The interior of a trailer recreated crowded conditions for pigs on factory farms along with a screen reading, “Together we can change the system.” A grassy area outside depicted the idyllic farms where Chipotle suggests it gets its pork. A farmer showed photos of his piglets. Jon Gilmor, a 22-year-old who interned at GMO seed maker Monsanto, praised Chipotle for encouraging interest in food sourcing. But he was dubious about an exhibit on the chain ridding its menu of genetically modified ingredients. Gilmor, in a “Monsanto Together” T-shirt, said he thought what he wore would be ironic but also wanted to proclaim his belief that GMOs are safe and that Chipotle plays on unfounded concerns. “It’s an issue that can get a lot of people to come to their stores,” he said. From The Associated Press
People at the Cultivate Festival in Kansas City, Mo., on July 23.
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People view a display contrasting different pig-raising operations at the Cultivate Festival.
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Tuna Never Tasted as Good as in This Asian-Inspired Salad By Melissa d’Arabian Canned tuna is underrated. Sure, we keep a can or two on hand for the occasional tuna salad sandwich, but most of us don’t stray far from the sandwich for this tasty and versatile protein. Canned tuna can be used as a protein swap in many recipes (tuna tacos are amazing!), and it’s shelf-stable, inexpensive, and chock-full of protein. One cup of drained canned tuna packs in about 40 grams of protein, so it’s filling enough for either lunch or dinner. Most tuna seems to be packed in water these days to save calories. But I personally like the flavor better of oil-packed fish—it tastes more like fresh fish—so I usually keep a couple of oilpacked cans around for some recipes where I want a richer flavor, and I just drain the oil away. Also, I always keep a can (or jar) of high-end tuna in my pantry—a quality tuna packed in good olive oil will turn your tuna dishes into restaurant quality, but you’ll definitely pay several dollars more. Your call. Once you have a nice stock of canned tuna in
Tuna is shelf-stable, inexpensive, and chock-full of protein.
the pantry, get creative. Consider almost any recipe where you use chicken or fish, and see if you can’t substitute tuna. Tip: The more sophisticated the dish, the higher end the tuna should be. Mixing up some tuna patties? Chunk light tuna on sale is perfect for the task. Sautéing tuna in olive oil, garlic, lemon zest, and chili flakes to toss with pasta for company? You’ll want to spend a little more. If you are worried about having taste flashbacks to your childhood of eating pink-spiky tuna-flecked mayo slathered between slices of white fluffy bread, my suggestion is to think about ethnic flavor profiles to redirect your tastebuds—Italian (mix tuna into spicy tomato sauces), Thai, Chinese, and Mexican dishes made with canned tuna are some of my favorites. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press MELISSA D'ARABIAN VIA AP
RECIPE CHOPPED ALBACORE SALAD WITH ASIAN DRESSING Prep & Cooking Time: 15 minutes Servings: 4
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4 cups chopped romaine lettuce 3/4 cup chopped green beans 3/4 cup chopped carrots 1/2 cup chopped red sweet pepper 1/4 cup quartered grape tomatoes 1/2 avocado, cubed 1/4 cup chopped almonds (or cashews) 2 scallions, chopped Three 5-ounce cans albacore tuna, drained 1/4 cup chopped cilantro
For the Dressing • 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger • 1 garlic clove, finely minced (or 1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic) • 2 tablespoons reduced-sodium soy sauce • 2 tablespoons lime juice
• 2 tablespoons rice wine vinegar • 1/4 teaspoon sriracha, or other hot sauce (or more if desired) • 1 teaspoon sesame oil • 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, or other neutral oil
DIRECTIONS Place all the salad ingredients in a large bowl. In a small bowl, vigorously whisk together the dressing ingredients. Spoon about half of the dressing onto the salad and toss to coat. Taste, and add more dressing as desired. Serve immediately. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian
Italian Squash Bake Brings Mediterranean Flair to Dinner By Melissa d’Arabian This week’s Italian squash bake is a true workhorse. Want an easy, make-ahead weeknight side dish? This will do the trick. Hosting both vegetarians and meat eaters for dinner? Serve this Italian squash bake along with grilled chicken or fish on the side for the carnivores, and you’ll be all set. Since the recipe is quite flexible, you can easily make as much or as little as you need. The colors of the vegetable slices are pretty when juxtaposed against one another, making this a company-worthy recipe with zero lastminute prep. My daughter, who loves to help me make this, even considers it a (lightened-up) version of lasagna. She’s actually not too far off. This Mediterranean-style squash bake is typically loaded with veggies and often topped with lamb or salty pork. My squash version gets its flavor from calorie-free herbs, lemon juice, and garlic cloves instead, plus just enough satisfying fat from a light dusting of cheese added in the final stages of baking. Bringing Mediterranean flair to your weeknight cooking routine might be just the thing your autumn needs.. Food Network star Melissa d’Arabian is an expert on healthy eating on a budget. She is the author of the cookbook “Supermarket Healthy.” From The Associated Press MELISSA D'ARABIAN VIA AP
RECIPE ITALIAN SQUASH BAKE Prep & Cooking Time: 1 hour Servings: 4 • 1 medium-large zucchini, sliced • 1 medium-large yellow crookneck squash, sliced • 2 large shallots, sliced • 2 tomatoes, sliced (halve slices into half-moons if too large) • 5–10 garlic cloves • 2 teaspoons dried Italian herb seasoning • 1 tablespoon olive oil • Juice of 1/2 lemon • 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella or parmesan cheese, or mixed • Salt and pepper
DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 375 F. Spray an 8-inch earthenware or regular baking dish with nonstick cooking spray. Season the vegetables with a little salt and pepper. Layer the squash, tomato, and shallot slices “shingle style” in the dish, alternating vegetables. Don’t hesitate to pack the vegetables in fairly tightly; the slices should not lay completely flat. Once the vegetables are all snuggly in the baking dish, sprinkle on the garlic cloves, and dried herbs. Drizzle on the olive oil and squeeze on the lemon juice. Cover with foil and bake for a half hour. Remove the foil and continue baking for an additional half hour, sprinkling the cheese on top the last 15 minutes (for a total bake time of about an hour.) Serve warm or room temperature. Note: This recipe is very flexible and can be scaled up or down. Recipe by Melissa d’Arabian
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com BRIAN ACH/INVISION/AP
Emeril Lagasse Feasts Globally on New Amazon Prime Series By Frazier Moore
N
EW YORK—Caution: Eat before you watch “Eat the World.” Do not come to this new Emeril Lagasse-hosted docuseries hungry for anything other than new insights about food, travel, and culture. And if you must snack while viewing any of these six half-hours (all available for streaming on Amazon Prime), be careful what you choose. Reheating a slice from your pizzeria may plunge you into comparative despair as you behold Lagasse’s odyssey to Italy, where he savors what reputedly is the best pizza in the world, lovingly prepared with dough, olives, tomatoes, mozzarella, and anchovies all collected just a few miles from the village where this tiny restaurant draws patrons by the hundreds. For him, it’s ecstasy with every bite, and you, in your deprivation, will understand all too painfully why. For this and each “Eat the World” expedition, Lagasse travels with a fellow superstar chef who serves as his liaison to locales, cooking techniques, and flavors, with which he may be no more conversant than the viewer. “Maybe this experience, maybe this place isn’t familiar to me,” says Lagasse, “but always there’s a story and there’s pieces of knowledge,
If you must snack while viewing any of these six half-hours, be careful what you choose.
and that’s what I’m trying to deliver for the folks at home, along with an adventure.” The adventure shared with Mario Batali takes them to China. “We started in New York with ravioli, and we ended up in Shanghai,” he reports. “People might scratch their heads at home and wonder, ‘Why not Italy?’ It’s because we were looking for the beginning of the noodle!” Other countries that Lagasse and a fellow culinarian will sample include Cuba, Spain, Korea, and Sweden, where he joins Marcus Samuelsson at a restaurant whose Michelinstar chef thrills diners from a kitchen that has no electricity—“everything he does is by wood, fire, and smoke!” At 56, Lagasse has enjoyed decades of fame as a restaurateur and celebrity chef who first earned renown in New Orleans by blazing a new style of Creole cuisine. He has authored many cookbooks and hosted numerous TV series, going back to the launch of the Food Network a quarter-century ago. He even starred as a sitcom version of himself in NBC’s shortlived “Emeril.” Along the way, he developed an image as a personality as zesty as his food, complete with his signature eruptions of “Kick it up a notch” and “Bam!”
AP PHOTO/REBECCA BLACKWELL,FILE
By Christin Roby ABIDJAN, Ivory Coast—The smell of chocolate wafts from the door of an artisanal shop that would not be out of place in Brooklyn. Founder Dana Mroueh takes in the sun while riding her stationary bicycle-turned-cocoa grinder on an ambitious journey that began just four months ago. She wants to introduce Ivory Coast, the world’s leading cocoa producer, to the taste of processed cocoa beans, in the form of chocolate bars that she says are 100 percent local. The 27-year-old Mroueh is among an emerging group of chocolate makers who are trying to show this steamy West African country that it can take more control over its cocoa industry, from bean to bar, and win over the local market. “I think it’s criminal for the planters and for the Ivorians who don’t know the taste of chocolate,” said Mroueh, an Ivorian of Lebanese descent who grew up watching her grandfather, a former pastry shop owner, have a difficult time selling his chocolate. “We need to emphasize the value of the Ivorian territory.” Her MonChoco Chocolate bars are priced for upper-class consumers, with prices of around $5 apiece and experimental flavors including chili and sea salt. Fellow chocolate-maker Axel Emmanuel is aiming at the other end of the market. The 32-year-old says he wants to dispel the myth that chocolate is exclusively for the rich. “We’ve decided to officially make the most inexpensive chocolate bar on the African continent,” said Emmanuel, who was recognized by the country’s president as the 2015 Young Entrepreneur of the Year. His Instant Chocolate bars go for about 30 cents apiece. Emmanuel sees potential in Ivory Coast’s 10 percent economic growth last year, and in a small but growing middle class in many parts of Africa. As with many of Africa’s agricultural resources, the true earnings come from their transformation, he said, and farmers ought to benefit from the locally made chocolate market as well. Ivory Coast has long been known for its raw cocoa production, producing about 35 percent of the world’s supply. But less than a third of
what it produces is turned into finished products at home. Now the government is encouraging change. Recently, billboards sponsored by the National Coffee and Cocoa Council sprouted up throughout Abidjan, the country’s largest city, urging the consumption of Ivorian chocolate. President Alassane Ouattara has said that by 2020, he hopes the country will process at least half of its raw cocoa. Chocolate makers say the task can be done with little money and limited space, but some cocoa experts say many farmers don’t yet have the skills to transform their raw product. “It’s a lot easier to teach farmers good agricultural practices,” said Suzanne Ndongo-Seh, director of the World Cocoa Foundation’s Cocoa Livelihoods Program. She warned that chocolate-makers will have to work hard to expand their clientele in Africa, especially among more rural populations. Even though 70 percent of the world’s cocoa beans originate in places like Ivory Coast, Ghana, Cameroon, and Nigeria, chocolate is still considered a luxury. Some of Ivory Coast’s young chocolate-makers are pitching the healthy side of their products to win over consumers. “Our products are raw, not cooked, not roasted, to conserve all the benefits of the cocoa bean because it’s a product very, very rich in nutrients, to conserve also the antioxidants, minerals. And that’s essential,” Mroueh said. Olga Yenou, a former employee for the French chocolate manufacturer Cemoi, called cocoa good for the heart and nervous system. “It’s good when used against stress, against fatigue, and it will be a shame to consider cocoa just like a candy,” she said. Her company, Tafissa, turns local beans into finished products including a cocoa-andcashew spread and a cocoa powder drink mix. Producing chocolate bars is a future ambition, she said. In a young market, she believes there’s room for more local entrepreneurs. “We are all actors trying to spread the love of cocoa amongst Ivorians,” Yenou said. “I believe the adventure will be long, as we are just getting started.” From The Associated Press
Emeril Lagasse travels with a fellow superstar chef who serves as his liaison to locales, cooking techniques, and flavors.
From The Associated Press
AP PHOTO/REBECCA BLACKWELL,FILE
Some of Ivory Coast’s young chocolatemakers are pitching the healthy side of their products to win over consumers.
Young Chocolate Entrepreneurs Emerge in Ivory Coast
Not here. No “bams.” “I think viewers will be very surprised to see another side of Emeril Lagasse,” he notes. “For 30 years, I’ve been saying if you can understand the culture and the people, then you can understand the food. And that’s certainly the mission that I’m on for this show—to bring that home for every viewer. “If you’re not learning something every day, then you’re really cheating yourself. And I approach the show that way. Every day, something touched me, whether it was an ingredient or a technique or a place or a face, and I know that’s gonna come across on the screen. “I don’t usually watch myself on television,” he confides with a mischievous grin. “But I can’t wait to watch this show. It’s really special.”
Ivory Coast has long been known for its raw cocoa production, producing about 35 percent of the world’s supply. But less than a third of what it produces is turned into finished products locally.
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September 16–22, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com AP PHOTO/MARY ESCH KINDRA CLINEFF/CONNECTICUT OFFICE OF TOURISM VIA AP
Fall foliage surrounds the Heublein Tower on Talcott Mountain in Simsbury, Conn.
Fall colors are reflected on the surface of Indian Lake in the Adirondacks in upstate New York. AP PHOTO/JIM COLE, FILE
A foggy fall day in Milan Hill State Park, N.H.
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‘Leaf’ the Beaten Path for Stunning Foliage and Enviable Selfies
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he Northeast’s fall foliage dazzles locals and draws millions of tourists, but many flock to the same tired vantage points. Those willing to venture off the beaten path will be rewarded with stunning and comparatively uncrowded autumn vistas—and some enviable selfies. Here’s your guide to the best corners of New England and upstate New York for leaf-peeping. Connecticut The Heublein Tower in Simsbury, Connecticut, sits at the top of Talcott Mountain State Park. The 165-foot tower was built in 1914 by liquor magnate Gilbert Heublein as a summer home and offers spectacular views that on a clear day extend north to the Berkshires in Massachusetts and south to Long Island Sound. Getting to the tower involves a relatively easy 1 1/4-mile hike up a foliage-filled trail that winds up the mountain, with plenty of overlooks of the Farmington River Valley. There’s also a nearby pumpkin patch where visitors can enjoy hayrides and pumpkin picking. —Pat Eaton-Robb Maine Nestled in tiny Turner in the foothills of Maine, Ricker Hill Orchards combines two of New England’s most beloved autumn activities: picking your own apples and admiring the turning leaves. The orchard’s hillside “u-pick” area offers a stunning view of Maine’s western lakes and mountains region, with views of foliage stretching all the way to New Hampshire. The ninth-generation orchard also offers fall staples such as cider and cider doughnuts along with its apples and views. It’s about an hour’s drive north of Portland—a ride with its own superb views of the fall spectacle. —Patrick Whittle
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Massachusetts Most people associate Cape Cod with summer, sand, and surf, but the peninsula offers some postcard-perfect backdrops for foliage. Cross over the Sagamore Bridge and take the first exit onto rural Route 6A, which winds and twists through the scenic and historic town of Sandwich. The Old King’s Highway, as it used to be known, hugs Cape Cod Bay and is lined with ancient stone walls, white picket fences, ponds, and pastures. Two worthwhile stops in Sandwich: Heritage Museums and Gardens, where you can meander along paths bordered by stunning flora; and the Green Briar Nature Center, next to the conservation area where Thornton Burgess dreamed up Peter Rabbit and other characters. —William J. Kole New Hampshire Don’t want to limit your leaf-peeping to a single state, or, for that matter, country? Head to Milan State Park, where a fire tower offers simulta-
neous views of the mountain ranges of New Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, and Canada. Brilliant leaves in the foreground contrast beautifully with fog that settles in the valleys and the mountains in the distance. The recently renovated park, about 125 miles north of the state capital of Concord, includes a hilltop campground with a half-dozen campsites and four furnished yurts available to rent through Oct. 24. Oh, and it’s pronounced MY’-lin, not mihLAHN’. —Holly Ramer New York In the southern Adirondacks, the stony Sacandaga River and a series of forest-rimmed lakes reflect blazing orange and yellow leaves along a 50-mile stretch of Route 30 from Northville to Indian Lake, where the Great Adirondack Moose Festival is slated for Sept. 24–25. There are long stretches of unbroken wilderness between the hamlets of Wells, Speculator, and Indian Lake, with hiking trails leading to secluded ponds, waterfalls, and small mountains with big views. —Mary Esch Rhode Island For an urban leaf-peeping experience, there are few places more picturesque than historic Benefit Street in Providence, Rhode Island. Hundred-year-old elms and other mature trees provide a canopy of spectacular color over brick sidewalks. The mile-long street runs past a collection of Colonial, Federal, and Greek Revival-style homes, and several historic churches, including the First Baptist Church in America. Situated midway up the steep College Hill, it offers occasional glimpses of the more modern downtown, the Rhode Island Statehouse, and the rivers below. Above it is the main campus of Brown University, another lovely spot for fall color. —Michelle R. Smith Vermont The top of Owls Head Mountain, reached by a short hiking trail in the Groton State Forest off state Route 232, offers consistently world-class foliage displays. With an elevation of 1,958 feet, the view from the rock face near the peak includes spectacular views of Lake Groton, Kettle Pond, Peacham Bog, and an unbroken expanse of forest that in late September and early October glows red, orange, and yellow. While the more adventurous can make a 1.5-mile hike that’s rated as easy to moderate, it’s also possible to drive to a parking area near the top for a short walk—ideal for an outing with kids. —Wilson Ring From The Associated Press