Epoch Taste 9-23-2016 by Epoch Taste

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF STERLING

D1 September 23–29, 2016

Nonnas Rule the

Kitchen on D3

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All Souped Up Soups get the superfood treatment Sweet Potato & Maca Soup With Green Harissa.

By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

hat is a soup but a warm, savory smoothie? It’s a thought that often comes up for Julie Morris, the best-selling author of “Superfood Smoothies,” and the recently released “Superfood Soups: 100 Delicious, Energizing & Plant-Based Recipes.” The cookbook has been a natural progression for Morris, who makes a sweet smoothie to start off the day and then another later on— but a savory one. In the grand scheme of history, smoothies are, of course, latecomers, while soups have had enduring staying power. “We have this instinctual pull toward soups. I don’t know whether that is because we’ve been making it for so long or because our body just knows how to digest it so well, it feels good on such an internal level,” Morris said in a phone interview from her home in Ventura, in southern California. “That’s what soups have the power to do: They make us feel nourished, satiated, and energized at the same time.” Morris points out that in traditional recipes, most of the ingredients and structure are the same “but then you have this other 20 percent room for interpretation,” she said.

See Superfoods on D2

It’s just a really fun way to introduce the flavors of superfoods and, of course, their benefits. Julie Morris, author, “Superfood Soups”

Golden Cauliflower Soup With Seared Mushrooms.

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September 23–29, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

All

Souped Up

Superfoods continued from D1 The 20 percent that Morris brings is in the form of superfoods—ingredients with health benefits, ranging from maca root to goji berries to medicinal mushrooms. Some of these superfoods, like turmeric or quinoa, have been embraced by chefs. Others, like maca root or goji berries, might only be used in smoothies. But as Morris suggests, why not put them in a hearty, old-fashioned soup? “For example, maca is a really fun ingredient to work with in soups,” Morris said. “It goes with so many different types of vegetables, especially heartier vegetables like carrots and potatoes. And what’s cool about maca is that it’s not even a superfood you have to hide the flavor of. You can really feature its earthy, butterscotch-like flavor.” One of Morris’s favorite soups, featured in her cookbook, is a sweet potato and maca soup with green harissa. “It’s just a really fun way to introduce the flavors of superfoods and, of course, their benefits,” she said. Medicinal mushrooms, Morris said, are a bit more abstract. Available in powder form, cordyceps, reishi, or chaga mushrooms “don’t really add a tremendous amount of flavor, but you’re getting a lot of benefits” and they are easy to add to soups. Regarding other superfoods, goji adds sweetness; hemp seeds, when blended, create creaminess, or when used as a topping, add texture. Seaweed lends an umami flavor, all the more important since the recipes are plant-based, she said. Morris does not recommend bone broths, which have garnered spectacular popularity, explaining how heavy metals can accrue in animal bones, ligaments, and skin. “As continuing studies come out, I think it’s not going to be all positive,” she said. “If we’re

Author Julie Morris says, “We have this instinctual pull toward soups.”

RECIPE SWEET POTATO & MACA SOUP WITH GREEN HARISSA Makes: 6 cups/4 servings

ALL PHOTOS COURTESY OF STERLING

Unlike some of the extra-powerful superfoods out there, maca is not a flavor that you need to hide. In fact, when it’s surround by flavor friends such as roots and tubers, you can use maca almost like you’d use a spice, keeping its flavor in the celebratory foreground. When you taste this immensely exciting soup, which boasts a rich, creamy base highlighted by the abundantly herbaceous taste of Green Harissa, listen closely to the soup and you’ll notice a pleasant, slightly sweet, almost butterscotch note—that’s the maca!

• • • • • • • • •

looking at it from a nutrient standpoint, plants are going to be a better option.” Stocking Up Your Pantry If you’re getting started stocking your pantry with superfoods, Morris recommends a handful of versatile ones: dried goji berries, hemp seeds, some kind of mushroom powder, dulse flakes, and chia seeds. Though the initial investment can be substantial in cost, Morris points out that the ingredients last for a long time. “They’re inherently shelf-stable, as they’re dried ingredients. And because they’re superfoods, you need so little of them per serving to get all the benefits. What we’re talking about is a teaspoon or tablespoon at a time. … When we’re talking about the per-serving standpoint, it’s really not that much,” she said.

• • • • • • •

1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon ground coriander 1 tablespoon coconut oil 1 yellow onion, diced 4 cloves garlic, sliced 1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and grated 2 tablespoons maca powder 4 cups Vegetable Broth (store bought) 1/4 cup creamy almond butter Sea salt and ground black pepper 1/4 cup Green Harissa (store bought), or more as desired Chia seeds, for garnish Cilantro leaves, for garnish

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From “Superfood Soups: 100 Delicious, Energizing & Plant-Based Recipes” by Julie Morris, Sterling, September 2016

DIRECTIONS In a small prep bowl, create a spice mix by combining the chili powder, cinnamon,

RECIPE GOLDEN CAULIFLOWER SOUP WITH SEARED MUSHROOMS Makes: 6 cups/4 servings Both the cauliflower and the turmeric in this soup are well-studied anti-cancer and antiinflammatory ingredients, helping you glow from within with health.

A Savory Escape

nutmeg, cumin, and coriander, and set aside. Heat the coconut oil in a heavybottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 7–8 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the garlic and prepared spice mix, and cook 1 minute longer, stirring constantly. Mix in the sweet potatoes and maca, and then add the vegetable broth and almond butter. Bring the mixture to a boil over high heat, and then reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. Transfer the soup to a blender, and puree until smooth. Season to taste with salt and a generous amount of ground black pepper, and add a little water, if needed, to thin the soup. (For a smoother texture, strain the soup through a fine mesh sieve, and reheat gently until ready to serve.) Ladle the soup into serving bowls and swirl a tablespoon of Green Harissa (or more, if you like) on top. Scatter a pinch of chia seeds and cilantro leaves on top as garnish.

• 2 tablespoons shelled raw pistachios • 1/4 teaspoon wheatgrass powder (optional) • Sea salt • 1 tablespoon coconut oil • 2 leeks, white and light green parts only, sliced thin • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 1 1/2 pounds cauliflower, cut into 1-inch pieces (4 cups) • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, minced • 1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric • 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 4 cups Miso Broth (recipe below) • 1/2 cup raw cashews • 1 cup wild mushrooms, such as maitake, shiitake, and/or chanterelle • 1 tablespoon grapeseed oil • 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley • 1/4 cup microgreens and edible flowers, for garnish (optional)

1/4 teaspoon sea salt. Set aside. Warm the coconut oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the leeks and garlic, and cook for 2–3 minutes until leeks are softened. Stir in the cauliflower and thyme, and cook for a minute longer. Add the turmeric, cayenne, and miso broth, and turn the heat up to high. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat to medium low. Cook for 20 minutes, or until cauliflower is very soft. Remove the pot from the heat, and add the cashews. Transfer the soup to a blender, working in batches as needed, and puree until completely smooth. Return the soup to the pot and keep warm. Depending on the size and variety of mushrooms you use, tear into bite-size portions, or slice into 1/4-inch pieces. Warm the grapeseed oil in a large skillet over high heat. Once the oil is shimmering, add the mushrooms, spreading out in an even layer as much as possible. Without stirring, cook the mushrooms for 1–2 minutes to sear. When the mushroom bottoms have turned golden, flip them over with a spatula and repeat on the other side for 1–2 minutes longer. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl, add the parsley, season with salt, and toss well.

DIRECTIONS

Serve the soup by ladling it into bowls and sprinkling with ground pistachios. Place a mound of mushrooms on top, and dress up the plate with microgreens and flowers as desired.

Chop the pistachios very finely into a coarse powder. Place the powder in a small bowl and add the wheatgrass powder as well as a scant

From “Superfood Soups: 100 Delicious, Energizing & Plant-Based Recipes” by Julie Morris, Sterling, September 2016

RECIPE MISO BROTH

pastes are the strongest. If you’re avoiding soy, chickpea miso is a great resource to use, too.

Makes: About 8 cups

• 4 tablespoons yellow miso paste • 1 teaspoon kelp granules • 2 quarts (8 cups) water

Here you have it: my absolute favorite simple soup broth, and the one you should definitely commit to memory. It’s unbelievably versatile and easy to make, and it punches up the flavor of everything it’s added to! Unlike most recipes for miso soups, which only gently warm the miso (traditionally, it’s added at the end of a recipe to preserve its delicate enzymes), I treat this broth just like any other by adding it to soups early on. It’s sacrilege, I know, to waste a few innocent enzymes, but in this instance it’s really the flavor of miso that we’re after. There are infinite ways to punch up a miso broth, but this recipe is a great place to start. I like to use yellow miso paste here, as it’s the most versatile, but feel free to substitute other varieties— white miso paste has the weakest flavor, while brown and red miso

DIRECTIONS Blend all the ingredients together in a blender until the miso is fully dissolved. Use in soups as directed, or warm over low heat to enjoy as a sipping broth. The broth may be stored in the refrigerator for up to 1 week, or kept in the freezer for several months. FEEL-GOOD FACT: Broths containing seaweed, like kelp or kombu, are naturally high in minerals and electrolytes. Warmed up, they make an excellent post-exercise drink to aid in recovery and hydration. From “Superfood Soups: 100 Delicious, Energizing & Plant-Based Recipes” by Julie Morris, Sterling, September 2016)

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September 23–29, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com ALL PHOTOS BY SAMIRA BOUAOU/EPOCH TIMES

Nonna (Italian for grandma) Adelina Orazzo hails from Naples, Italy.

NONNAS RULE THE KITCHEN at Enoteca Maria By Annie Wu | Epoch Times Staff

o most of us, Grandma’s cooking is inevitably imbued with nostalgia—warm memories of delicious food prepared with care. Grandma is the keeper of family recipes, a stalwart of tradition, the chef’s muse. But what if Grandma herself was the chef, doling out her amazing dishes to curious diners? Adelina Orazzo is one of several chef “nonnas” (grandmas in Italian) at Enoteca Maria in Staten Island, a restaurant that specializes in home-style food from cultures around the world. The kitchen is presided over by women and men—most 50 years old and above—who are experienced in the art of traditional cooking. Originally from Naples, Italy, Orazzo learned to cook from her own mother and grandmother, who taught her the importance of making everything fresh and from scratch. She is full of cooking tips and wisdom that only years of feeding a family can bestow. When making vegetable lasagna, for example, she explained how each type of vegetable must be cooked separately, to coax out maximum flavor. Orazzo loves to cook, and not just for her family, because “when I look at the faces of people who enjoy my food, their faces change, and I’m satisfied,” she said. Her dish of stuffed cayenne peppers (Peperoni Ripieni Piccanti), certainly brings elation to diners’ faces ($17). The grilled peppers, filled with spicy sausage, Parmesan, and breadcrumbs, have just the right amount of heat that tingles on your palate without setting your mouth on fire. Slices of pineapple served on the side help you cool down. Owner Joe Scaravella got the idea to open Enoteca Maria 10 years ago, after his Italian grandmother and mother had both passed away. He remembered how comforting it had been to see them working in the kitchen, and decided to open a restaurant devoted to that idea. Initially, he hired nonnas from different regions of Italy. Later, he thought he could celebrate culinary traditions from other cultures too. Since last July, he’s been recruiting grandmothers from different cultures. A different culture is represented each night. (If you know a grandma who loves to cook, Scaravella is looking to hire.) During a visit in mid-August, Kate Otiteh was preparing a menu of traditional Nigerian dishes. She began learning to cook at age 12, when her mother taught her how to properly cook rice. After mastering that, she graduated to making soups and stews, like yam porridge with goat and chicken, a hearty dish of crumbly, soft yams that soak up the fiery spices inside ($18). The heat in this dish comes on gently, sneaking up on you with a kick to the throat. Another Nigerian classic is “chin chin,”

Grandma Kate Otiteh cooks traditional Nigerian soups and stews.

Enoteca Maria

27 Hyatt St. (between Stuyvesant Place & St. Marks Place) Staten Island 718-447-2777 EnotecaMaria.com Hours Lunch: Wednesday–Friday Noon–3 p.m. Dinner: Wednesday–Sunday From 3 p.m., last seating 8:30 p.m.

Otiteh’s Nigerian yam porridge, spicy and hearty.

Orazzo’s stuffed cayenne peppers (Peperoni Ripieni Piccanti), filled with spicy sausage, Parmesan, and breadcrumbs. little fried crackers made of flour and milk that are sweet and crunchy ($10). Otiteh pairs them with fried chicken— a savory and sweet combination. This is the kind of food you could hope to feast on if ever invited to a Nigerian family dinner. Alongside the daily guest grandma’s menu, the restaurant regularly serves an Italian menu prepared by a rotating lineup of nonnas. Dishes include fresh pastas made by “nonno”

(grandpa) Giuseppe Fraia, an elderly gentleman from Calabria, Italy. He toils in the kitchen, constantly rolling pasta dough and pushing it through a hand-cranked pasta maker. “Back then [in Italy], we did everything by hand,” he said. It’s comforting to know that there are people who still believe in the goodness of homemade, no-shortcutstaken food, and want to share it with the rest of the world.

HOST YOUR NEXT SOCIAL EVENT at Awadh! These crunchy “chin chin,” fried crackers made of flour and milk, served with fried pieces of chicken.

Nonno (grandpa) Giuseppe Fraia makes all the pastas at Enoteca Maria.

Unique Indian Cuisine, Full bar, extensive wine & cocktail selections

Whether for Thanksgiving, an office party, birthday, or a wedding/ reception, for your next event we will offer you years of experience, creative vision and flawless organization to tailor your event to your needs and budget. We offer a variety of packages and options for large groups or events, and also offer full restaurant buyout options.

Although an occasional dum pukht (slow cooking over fire)-dish can be found at other New York restaurants, Awadh is the only one highlighting this century-old Indian cuisine and techniques of the Lucknow region in northern India.

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September 23–29, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com

PIG ROAST AT IL BUCO

stuff to eat and drink around nyc COURTESY OF SESSANTA

PICKLE DAY

Sagra del Maiale, the outdoor pig roast hosted by Italian restaurant Il Buco, is returning for another year. The heritage pork from Flying Pigs Farm, slow-roasted over an open fire, will be served with crispy cracklings, pasta alla Genovese, panzanella salad, ricotta fritters with saba, and more. Proceeds will go to relief efforts for the recent earthquake in central Italy. $35 per person ($10 for wine).

Enjoy pickled goodies from more than 20 picklers and tasty treats from local restaurants at this day-long celebration in the Lower East Side. Participants include The Pickle Guys, McClure’s Pickles, Crooked Carrot, Wassail, The Meatball Shop, Roni-Sue’s Chocolates, and Red Hook Lobster Pound. Hobby picklers can enter their homemade creations in a contest judged by chefs and food journalists.

Sunday, Sept. 25 Noon–6 p.m. Il Buco 47 Bond St. (between Bowery & Lafayette Street) IlBuco.com

Sunday, Sept. 25 Noon–5 p.m. Orchard Street (between Delancey & East Houston streets) PickleDay.nyc

COURTESY OF VINATERIA

SLICE OUT HUNGER’S $1 SLICE NIGHT Some of the city’s best pizzerias will throw a grand pizza party to benefit City Harvest and Food Bank for New York City, to help support hunger relief. Participating pizzerias will include Emily, Joe’s Pizza, Lombardi’s, Patsy’s, Ribalta, Sam’s Restaurant, Prince Street Pizza, Bruno Pizza, and more. $1 per slice; tickets available at the door. Wednesday, Oct. 5 6 p.m. The Shrine Church of St. Anthony of Padua The Lower Hall 155 Sullivan St. (between West Houston & Prince streets) SliceOutHunger.org

Mozzarella in Carrozza.

RED SAUCE SUNDAYS AT SESSANTA If you’re feeling nostalgic for home-style Italian-American classics, head to Sessanta on Sundays. The restaurant has launched a new “Red Sauce Sundays” menu consisting of red sauce drenched dishes like Mozzarella in Carrozza, buffalo mozzarella and mortadella in a delectable fried sandwich; Polpette di Melanzane, eggplant meatballs; Chicken alla Parmigiana, featuring a massive cutlet; and Pork Braciole, a stuffed pork dish that melds tender pork (with its generous amount of porky fat still intact) with rapini and caciocavallo cheese. An added bonus: The meal starts off with chef Paul DiBari’s glorious garlic bread, topped with plenty of olive oil, shaved Parmesan, and herbs. You’ll be tempted to keep munching on these. Sessanta 60 Thompson St. (between Broome & Spring streets) SessantaNYC.com

The B Michael cocktail.

COCKTAIL SPECIAL AT VINATERIA Vinateria in Harlem celebrated Fashion Week with a special “B Michael” cocktail: spiked lemonade with rosemary-infused vodka, fresh lemon juice, agave, and a sprig of rosemary, in honor of the local celebrity and eponymous fashion designer. The cocktail will be offered through the end of the month. $5.

Tuesday, Oct. 4 6 p.m.–9 p.m. Metropolitan Pavilion (between Seventh & Sixth avenues) 125 W. 18th St. AlexsLemonade.org

COURTESY OF BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN

CHILE PEPPER FESTIVAL

SUMMER PLATES AT DONGURI

Brooklyn Botanic Garden is hosting a festival devoted to chili peppers. Attendees can taste a variety of hot sauces, chili-infused chocolates, chili condiments, chili-speckled desserts, and spicy pickled goods. Gardeners will give educational lessons on chili peppers, and kids can pot their own pepper plants. Six bands from different musical traditions will provide live music. $20 per person.

A sampling of our summer menu

Sweet Corn Tempura Grilled Black Cod Marinated with White Miso

Saturday, Oct. 1 10 a.m.–6 p.m. Brooklyn Botanic Garden 990 Washington Ave., Brooklyn BBG.org

Traditional Clear Soup Mochidoki Ice Cream Matcha Green Tea, Salted Caramel, Passion Fruit

Donguri

Attendees at the Chile Pepper Festival.

JOE AMELLA JR.

Icelandic skyr with peach compote, dried berries, and walnut granola.

Smoked cream cheese, radish, and cucumber on toasted rye.

BREAKFAST AT AGERN Chef Yamasaki

RESERVATIONS (212) 737-5656 309 E.83rd Street, New York, NY. (Btw 1st and 2nd Ave)

To benefit Alex’s Lemonade Stand Foundation, which raises money for research on childhood cancers, more than 20 star chefs from across the country will join host and chef Alex Guarnaschelli of Food Network for a benefit dinner featuring their signature dishes. $250 per person.

Through Sept. 30 Monday–Friday, 5 p.m.–7 p.m. Vinateria 2211 Frederick Douglass Blvd. (between 119th & 120th streets) VinateriaNYC.com

夏のメニュー

Located on the Upper East Side, the 22-seat intimate Japanese restaurant Donguri offers an extensive menu with items from land and sea. Chef Yamasaki's Omakase (tasting menu) is a must-try.

LEMON: NYC

Chef’s Tasting Kaiseki Menu Always Available, $150

Agern, the Nordic restaurant inside Grand Central Terminal, is now serving weekday breakfasts. Options include savory porridges like oatmeal with poached egg, fried pork sausage, and bean salad; Danish toasts like arme riddere (grilled toast) with pear compote and whipped cream; housemade Nordic dairy dishes like skyr (Icelandic yogurt) and ymer (Danish soured milk); and Agern Eggs Benedict with smoked pork loin, salt-baked celeriac, and apple. Monday–Friday, 7 a.m.–10 a.m. Agern Grand Central Terminal 89 E. 42nd St. AgernRestaurant.com

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September 23–29, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com COURTESY OF EATALY

MIDDAY CLASSES AT EATALY Eataly is now offering a slew of cooking classes during the day, teaching the basics of Italian cuisine. Attendees can pick from classes that range from making meatballs to tiramisu. Italian language classes introduce the food and culture of particular regions of Italy, as well as serve a classic regional dish to sample. $35 for cooking classes, $75 for language classes.

An Authentic Bit of Tokyo in Midtown West

Eataly Flatiron 200 Fifth Ave. (between 23rd & 24th streets) Eataly.com •

An instructor at La Scuola, Eataly’s cooking school.

The freshest sushi made the traditional, simple way by master chef Shimizu • Shochu & sake • Exceptional value

Find us in the Washington Jefferson Hotel

Shimizu Sushi & Shochu Bar • ShimizuSushiNY.com 318 W. 51st St. (btw. 8th & 9th avenues) • (212) 581-1581 COURTESY OF DEL FRISCO

WINE CLASSES AT DEL FRISCO Every Saturday afternoon at 4 p.m., the wine team at Del Frisco offers a one-hour class on wine-related topics. The Sept. 24 class features Spanish wines, comparing “classics” to “trailblazers.” Wine tastings and savory food pairings are provided. $40 per person.

THE NEW AMERICAN TRADITION

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse 1221 Sixth Ave. (between 48th & 49th streets) DelFriscos.com

COURTESY OF ZEPPELIN HALL

OKTOBERFEST AT ZEPPELIN HALL Zeppelin Hall in Jersey City is celebrating Oktoberfest with special Bavarian dishes like schnitzel, sauerbraten (German pot roast), and a wurst platter with an assortment of German sausages. To wash it all down, the beer garden offers over 50 beers on tap. Festivities include live German bands on Friday and Saturday nights, in addition to beer stein hoisting contests.

Come try our creative approach to brunch, lunch, and dinner—on Murray Hill.

Friday, Sept. 30–Friday, Oct. 28 Zeppelin Hall Restaurant and Biergarten 88 Liberty View Dr., Jersey City ZeppelinHall.com

557 3rd Ave @ 37th Street New York, NY 10016 (212)686-8080 | www.hendriksnyc.com | Follow us

KATIE BURTON

LUNCH AT SCHILLING The Austrian-Mediterranean bistro Schilling is now serving lunch. Dishes on the new menu include Pork Knuckle Sandwich with fresh sauerkraut, Gruyère, and dijonnaise on a pretzel bun; Grilled Branzino (sea bass) with farro risotto, wild mushroom purée, and smoked beets; and Tagliatelle with brown-buttered corn, bacon, and serrano peppers.

Celebrating Mexican Traditions in NYC

Monday–Friday Noon–3 p.m. Schilling Restaurant 109 Washington St. (between Carlisle & Rector streets) SchillingNYC.com

Book us for your special events and catering!

Grilled Branzino (sea bass).

LUNCH SPECIAL AT JAMS Jams, the restaurant helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef, Jonathan Waxman, is now offering a special “3 for $30” menu during lunch service (starter, main, and dessert course), featuring an array of farm-fresh ingredients. For the main course, choose from gnocchi with burst cherry tomatoes, roasted corn, and Parmesan; baked meatballs with locally milled corn polenta, smoked tomato sauce, and sautéed broccoli rabe; and Jams chicken with Goffle Road Poultry Farm chicken and salsa verde. For dessert, there’s peach berry crumble with vanilla ice cream and milk chocolate pot de creme. Monday–Friday 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Jams (at 1 Hotel Central Park) 1414 Sixth Ave. (between 57th & 58th streets) JamsRestaurant.nyc

Our Specials

OKTOBERFEST AT PAULANER Beer hall Paulaner NYC is celebrating Oktoberfest with brewery tours, fresh-brewed seasonal beer, and a new food menu. The menu consists of traditional Bavarian fare like Mini Meatloaf with potato-cucumber salad; Whole Roasted Duck with pretzel dumplings and braised red cabbage; Sauerbraten with braised red cabbage and spätzle; Wies’n Hendl, half roasted chicken with fries; and Obatzda, a housemade cheese spread, served with a freshly baked pretzel. Special packages with an open bar and party kegs are also available. Through Sunday, Oct. 30 Paulaner NYC 265 Bowery (between Stanton & East Houston streets) PaulanerNYC.com

Compiled by Annie Wu/Epoch Times Staff

Late Night Happy Hour Thursday to Sunday, 10 p.m. to close • $4 drafts, $6 margaritas, $5 sangria, $1 oysters •

1/2 dozen oysters & Dos Equis $11.00, all day

Traditional Mexican on the Upper East Side

1643 Lexington Avenue New York, NY 10029 212.831.3104 www.elpasony.com

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September 23–29, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Jennifer Skog

Cooking for Celebrations,

Minus the Grains, Gluten, or Dairy By Channaly Philipp | Epoch Times Staff

J Author Danielle Walker.

Hinata’s Special

Soupless Cold Tantan Ramen

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TEN SPEED PRESS

ALL NATURAL ORGANIC YOUNG CHICKEN BROTH NO MSG•EVERYTHING HOMEMADE

ust as we may expect holiday feasts to be lavish, so too do we expect the ensuing, debilitating food comas. And yet, are they really unavoidable? One Thanksgiving, food blogger and cookbook author Danielle Walker made grain-free, paleo dishes from recipes she’d been testing. Many family members told her that they felt less tired after the meal. Readers of her blog, “Against All Grain,” kept asking for recipes suitable for special celebrations. “There are not a lot of these out there. They don’t want to sacrifice flavor and traditions and textures,” Walker said. The author is releasing a holiday cookbook on Sept. 27, titled “Celebrations: A Year of Gluten-free, Dairy-free, and Paleo Recipes for Every Occasion” (Ten Speed Press, September 2016). Walker recovered from an autoimmune disease by embracing a grain-free diet. She understands how people can feel like they’re missing out at holiday parties while adhering to a diet that doesn’t embrace traditional holiday fare. So she released two e-books with holiday recipes prior to writing “Celebrations.” “I would joke that the biggest compliment

Walker includes recipes for grain-free holiday cookies and cakes.

I can get is when somebody says they’ve won over their husband,” she said. The book is divided into 12 occasions throughout the year, each chapter offering a full menu. Under “Autumn Dinner Party,” she offers recipes for curry pumpkin soup, roasted autumn harvest salad, butternut sage carbonara, chai-poached pears, and spiced apple hot toddy. One of the main challenges was baking. Traditional cookbooks are no help when it comes to grain-free baked goods. “You’re not using yeast, and you’re using completely different flours, which perform a lot differently. You can’t take almond flour or coconut flour and substitute [them] into your grandmother’s recipe one-to-one,” she said. And yet Walker has managed to create recipes for desserts like panettone, thumbprint cookies, and even a gingerbread house, among many others. Many are based on her family’s heirloom recipes. “A lot of what I did was to recreate a lot of the traditions and memories that I remember from growing up, and recipes that my grandmother passed down,” she said. She converted those recipes to “pass those traditions on to people who are eating this way and are looking for new inspiration.” COURTESY OF TEN SPEED PRESS

CASTILIAN SPANISH CUISINE at el Pote

RECIPE MAPLE PUMPKIN PIE This is my favorite dessert of the season, and I cannot wait for the excuse to make it every year. A little secret: my favorite way to eat it is cold, straight from the fridge, and sometimes for breakfast!

Hearty, Wholesome Food from Old Spain

Number Serves: 8 to 10

Chef’s Favorites Sweet Sangria

Amount Makes: 1 (9-inch) pie Pastry • Basic pie pastry, frozen for 1 hour • 1 egg yolk • 1 tablespoon full-fat coconut milk

Rich Paella Valenciana Fresh Lobster Bisque

Filling • 2 cups fresh pumpkin puree or 1 (15-ounce) can pure pumpkin • 3 eggs • 1/2 cup full-fat coconut milk • 1/2 cup pure maple syrup or light-colored raw honey • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon • 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger • 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves • 1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom • 1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest • 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt • Whipped coconut cream or whipped cream, for serving

Juicy Lamb Chops

718 2nd Ave @ 38th St. www.elPote.com 212.889.6680

DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 325°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Reserve one-fourth of the dough to make decorative toppings. Press the remaining dough into the bottom and up the sides of a 9-inch pie plate, using the palms of your hands to ensure the crust is even throughout. Press together any breaks in the dough, then crimp or flute the edges with your fingers. Cut a round of parchment paper to fit the bottom of the crust and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Freeze until firm, about 15 minutes. Bake the pie shell for 10 minutes, remove the weights and parchment paper, and bake for 5 minutes more, or until the crust is golden. Cool completely on a wire rack.

Classic Margherita Pizza

Roll out the reserved pie pastry between two sheets of parchment paper. Use cookie cutters to cut out shapes. Make an egg wash by mixing together the egg yolk and coconut milk and brush onto the pastry shapes. Transfer to the prepared baking

sheet and bake for 15 minutes, or until the shapes are golden. Cool completely on a wire rack. Increase the oven temperature to 350°F. Place the pie shell on a rimmed baking sheet and brush the edges with the remaining egg wash. To make the filling, whisk together the pumpkin, eggs, coconut milk, maple syrup, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, cloves, cardamom, lemon zest, and salt. Pour the filling into the prepared pie shell. Bake for 15 minutes, then cover the crust with foil and continue baking for 20 minutes, or until the custard has set but still jiggles slightly in the center. Turn off the oven and leave it cracked open for 30 minutes while the pie cools. Cool to room temperature on a wire rack, then place the decorative cut-outs around the perimeter of the pie and place it in the refrigerator to fully set, about 2 hours. Serve with the whipped coconut cream or whipped cream. Make it ahead: This pie keeps well, covered tightly with plastic wrap, for up to 3 days in the refrigerator and actually gets better with time. From “Celebrations: A Year of Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free, and Paleo Recipes for Every Occasion,” Ten Speed Press, September 2016

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BASIC PIE PASTRY Makes: Enough pastry for one 9-inch single-crust pie • • • • • • •

2 1/2 cups blanched almond flour 1 cup arrowroot powder 1/4 cup coconut sugar 2 eggs, chilled 3 tablespoons cold water 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt 4 tablespoons palm shortening, chilled

DIRECTIONS To make the pie dough, combine the almond flour, arrowroot, coconut sugar, eggs, water, and salt in a food processor. Process for 10 seconds, or until combined. Add the palm shortening, spacing out where the tablespoons are dropped into the dough. Pulse 4 to 5 times, until pea- size bits of dough form. Gather the dough into a tight ball and flatten it into a disk. Wrap tightly and freeze for 1 hour.

Transfer the dough to a 9-inch pie plate and press it into the bottom and up the sides of the plate, using the palms of your hands to ensure the crust is even throughout. Press together any breaks in the dough, then crimp or flute the edges with your fingers. To partially bake the crust, cut a round of parchment paper to fit the bottom of the crust and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake at 325°F for 10 minutes, remove the weights and parchment paper, and bake for 5 minutes more, or until the crust is golden. Cool completely on a wire rack. Tidbits: Substitute 3 tablespoons grass-fed unsalted butter or ghee for the palm shortening. Omit the coconut sugar for savory dishes such as the Mummy Dogs or to use for a potpie. From “Celebrations: A Year of Gluten-Free, Dairy-Free, and Paleo Recipes for Every Occasion,” Ten Speed Press, September 2016

@EpochTaste

September 23–29, 2016 www.EpochTaste.com Openings around NYC COURTESY OF THE JOHN LAMB

The John Lamb Located inside the Sago Hotel, The John Lamb offers a farm-to-table menu from executive chef James Asaro. The restaurant is named after a New York City native who served under the country’s first president, George Washington. Dishes include Seared Scallops with sweet potato hash, fresh chicory leaves, and orangeginger beurre blanc; Saucisse Bretonne with caramelized apples and Maytag blue cheese crumble; and Ricotta Gnocchi with crispy pancetta, fresh peas, mushrooms, and Parmesan cream sauce. For communal dining, there is also the option of eating a whole animal, such as a duck, turkey, or hog. Artisanal cocktails emphasize North American spirits and local ingredients.

At the Sago Hotel, 120 Allen St. (between Delancey & Rivington streets) Lower East Side 212-392-2944 TheJohnLamb.com

Saucisse Bretonne with caramelized apples and Maytag blue cheese crumble.

Authentic Japanese GMO FREE

When you taste the Japanese food at Momokawa you will know it is the real thing. Each ingredient and every detail ensures the most authentic experience.

Momokawa Prix Fixe Menu Small Course (service for two or more) COURTESY OF MEGU

• Appetizer • 2 kinds of Sashimi • Choice of Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu

Megu

(Sauté meals cooked at the table)

• Dessert

$48/per person

Cinematic dining comes to the Meatpacking District, with the opening of Megu, located on the lower level of the Dream Downtown hotel. The 5,000-square-foot, 145-seat restaurant, designed by Dizon Collective, features 3-D technology creating dynamic visuals on every surface, from Japanese graphic patterns to gardens and skyscapes. Executive chef Frances Tariga-Weshnak offers dishes such as King Crab Pineapple Roll with Avocado Truffle, Tobiko, and Shiso; and Branzino Kabocha Risotto, with kombu (kelp), tamarind wakame (seaweed) broth, and basil oil. Vegan and vegetarian options are also available. Charlotte Voisey has created modern cocktails inspired by Japanese spirits. Open daily from 5 p.m.

A L SO AVA IL A BLE: DA ILY LUNCH SPECI A L S (12 P.M.-4 P.M.)

Momokawa 157 East 28th Street | 1466 1st Ave (btwn 76 and 77) (212) 684-7830 | momokawanyc.com

2nd Location

355 W. 16th St. (between Eighth & Ninth avenues) Meatpacking District 212-885-9400, MeguWorldwide.com

LIZ CLAYMAN

Blue Water Grill 31 Union Square West 212-675-9500 BlueWaterGrillNYC.com Metropolis, lower level of Blue Water Grill 212-533-2500 MetropolisNewYork.com

Metropolis and Blue Water Grill Metropolis, a new oyster room and cocktail bar, has opened on the lower level of the newly renovated and reopened seafood restaurant Blue Water Grill. The new executive chef at Blue Water Grill, Chris Meenan (formerly of Veritas and Vaucluse), highlights market-inspired dishes, with produce from the neighboring Union Square Market, such as Watermelon and Late-Summer Tomatoes with Barrel-Aged Feta and Mint Chimichurri; and seafood entrees such as Alaskan Black Cod with Porcini Crust and Smoked Eggplant, and Lobster Milanese, crusted in oyster crackers, with Succotash and Drawn Butter. Chef Adam Raksin, formerly of L2O in Chicago and Per Se, helms Metropolis. He offers a menu of daily oyster specials, served in various ways, and classics like the Dover Sole Grenobloise for two. The beverage menu includes a section devoted to large format drinks, such as the Metropolis Martini for two, mixed tableside and served with seawaterpickled market vegetables. Live music will play at Metropolis five nights a week.

Redefining Traditional Spanish Cuisine • Fine dining experience inspired by the distinctive culinary-rich regions of Spain. • Top-quality ingredients expanding on the rich, healthy profiles of the Mediterranean diet. • Seasonal menu reflecting the bounty of fresh, local ingredients. • Exciting selection of Spanish wines, cavas, and cocktails.

246 E. 44th Street AlcalaRestaurant.com • (212) 370-1866

COURTESY OF WOK CHI

Wok Chi Wok Chi, a fast-casual Asian stir-fry and dim sum concept, is set to open Sept. 26 with 15 seats in Midtown East and a focus on healthful dishes. Diners can curate their own made-to-order bowls, choosing from hormone-free proteins, fresh vegetables, and sauces such as GingerSesame, Kung Pao, and BBQ Black Bean. Dim sum items include Spicy Shrimp Summer Rolls; Duck Confit Spring Rolls; and Kale and Spinach Jiaozi (dumplings). To celebrate the grand opening, Wok Chi will offer $5 bowls from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. from Sept. 26 to Sept. 28, with all proceeds going to the Food Bank of New York City. Open daily from 11 a.m.

Celebrate with Us May Wah Vegetarian Market 21st Anniversary

918 Third Ave. (between 55th & 56th streets) Midtown East 646-564-2255 WokChi.com

Los Mariscos The owners of Los Tacos No. 1 at Chelsea Market have announced a new seafood concept, Los Mariscos, opening at Chelsea Market this weekend. “While it’s common to find both seafood tacos and meat tacos on the same menu at taquerias in the U.S., they’re actually sold from completely separate street carts in Tijuana,” said Christian Pineda, co-founder of Los Mariscos and Los Tacos No. 1, in a press release. “Authenticity has always been incredibly important to us—from our food to our décor—and by keeping Los Mariscos separate from Los Tacos No. 1, we’re able to carry

this authenticity through into a new concept.” The menu features tacos, ceviches, aguachiles (marinated shrimp), and seafood cocktails. A raw bar offers clams, oysters, and oyster shooters. Drinks include margaritas, palomas (tequila cocktails), clamatos (drinks made with tomato juice, clam broth, and spices), and micheladas (beer cocktails). Los Mariscos has seating space as well as a takeout option. As for Los Tacos No. 1, a second location has been announced, due to open this winter at 229 W. 43rd St.

Chelsea Market 75 Ninth Ave. (between West 15th & West 16th streets) Chelsea 212-256-0343 LosTacos1.com

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AP PHOTO/MARY ESCH AP PHOTO/MARY ESCH

By Elizabeth Karmel

KINDRA KINDRA CLINEFF/CONNECTICUT CLINEFF/CONNECTICUT OFFICE OFFICE OFOF TOURISM TOURISM VIAVIA APAP

Grandmother’s Apple Cake Welcomes Fall

mother and I tasted it, we finally knew that we had found the one. Sometimes, the memMy grandmother, who lived with us when I ory outshines the reality. But for this cake, was growing up, had a serious sweet tooth and it did not. would bake something almost every day. As I was testing recipes for the cookbook, I In the spring, it was coconut cream pie. added my grandmother’s apple cake to 10 other cakes, some classic and some new-fangled, for In the summer, homemade ice cream and a neighborhood tasting—the cookbook writer’s peach pie. And during fall apple season, she would bake this very simple apple cake version of a “cake walk.” Everyone gravitated and serve it warm with vanilla ice cream or toward my on grandmother’s Fall foliage surrounds the Heublein Fall colors are reflected the surface ofcake. Indian Lake in the Fall foliagecream. surrounds the Heublein Fall colors are The reflected onisthe surface of Indian Lake in the whipped batter very Tower on Talcott Mountain in Adirondacks in upstate New York.stiff, like cookie dough, Tower on Talcott Mountain in Adirondacks in upstate York. before you New add the apples, but rest assured—as My mother and I loved this cake—it’s so simSimsbury, Conn. Simsbury, Conn. PHOTO/JIM COLE, FILE ple, yet so satisfying and comforting—and never soon as the apples give up theirAPjuice, the batAP PHOTO/JIM COLE, FILE thought to write it down before my grandter will loosen and bake beautifully. mother died. For years, we searched her recipe cards to no avail, until last summer when I Elizabeth Karmel is a barbecue and Southern was doing research for a new cookbook called foods expert. She is the chef and pit master at “Steak and Cake.” Happily, we came across online retailer CarolinaCueToGo.com a recipe card that looked like it might be the thing. I made the cake immediately and as my From The Associated Press AP PHOTO/RICHARD DREW

RECIPE GRANDMOTHER ODOM’S APPLE CAKE Prep & Baking Time: 90 minutes Servings: 8–10 Special Equipment: 10-cup Bundt pan • 4 generous cups raw apples, peeled

A foggy fallcoarsely day in Milan Hill State Park, and chopped (about 5 N.H. large A foggy fall day in Milan Hill State Park, N.H.

Experience Experience Firsthand Firsthand the the Romance Romance of of the the Korean Korean Dynasty Dynasty South South Korean Korean top top chef chef Sunkyu Sunkyu Lee Lee cooks cooks authentic authentic Korean Korean royal royal court court cuisine cuisine Totally Totally different different and and distinctive distinctive cuisines cuisines and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and and interior designs on the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd 3rd floors. floors.

• • • • • • • • •

Granny Smith apples) 2 cups granulated white sugar 1/2 cup vegetable oil 2 large eggs 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 2 teaspoons baking soda 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup chopped toasted walnuts Confectioner’s sugar for decorating Cooking spray

Whisk together flour, cinnamon, and soda. Add dry mixture to sugar, oil, and eggs by thirds.

‘Leaf’ the Beaten Path

Remove from stand mixer and fold in chopped apples. Let sit for 5 minutes, stir well and add walnuts. Mix well.

for Stunning Foliage and Enviable Selfies DIRECTIONS

Heat the oven to 350 F.

Beathetogether sugarfall and oil, and add eggs one Northeast’s foliage dazzles locals Northeast’s fall foliage dazzles locals at ahe time until creamy. and draws millions of tourists, but many

and draws millions of tourists, but many flock to the same tired vantage points. flock to the same tired vantage points. Those willing to venture off the beaten path Those willing to venture off the beaten path will be rewarded with stunning and comparwill be rewarded with stunning and comparatively uncrowded autumn vistas—and some atively uncrowded autumn vistas—and some enviable selfies. enviable selfies. Here’s your guide to the best corners of New Here’s your guide to the best corners of New England upstate New York for leaf-peeping. By Katieand Workman England and upstate New York for leaf-peeping.

Pour batter into prepared pan—I prefer Baker’s Joy or another brand of spray coating with flour—and place on a sheet pan to bake. Bake 60 to 65 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in the pan 10 minutes, then invert onto a cake cooling rack. Dust top with confectioner’s sugar, if desired.

neous views of the mountain ranges of New neous views of the mountain ranges of New Recipe by Elizabeth Karmel and Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, Canada. Hampshire, Maine, Vermont, and Canada. Brilliant leaves in the foreground contrast Brilliant leaves in the foreground contrast beautifully with fog that settles in the valbeautifully with fog that settles in the valleys and the mountains in the distance. The leys and the mountains in the distance. The recently renovated park, about 125 miles north recently renovated park, about 125 miles north of the state capital of Concord, includes a hilltop of the state capital of Concord, includes a hilltop campground with a half-dozen campsites and campground with a half-dozen campsites and four furnished yurts available to rent through ple tablespoons of heavy cream offers a silkfour furnished yurts available to rent through Oct. 24. to the filling, and a smoother citrus ier texture Oct. 24. Oh, and it’s pronounced MY’-lin, mihexperience. Sometimes lemon zest isnot added to Oh, and it’s pronounced MY’-lin, not mihLAHN’. the filling, and while I love the extra burst of citLAHN’. —Holly rus, I’mRamer more in love with a super smooth fill—Holly Ramer ing, so I skip it. But you can add a teaspoon or New Yorkif you like. so of zest New York InIfthe southern the stony Sacanyou want toAdirondacks, gild the lily, serve these with In the southern Adirondacks, the stony Sacandaga and a whipped series of forest-rimmed lakes someRiver sweetened cream on the side. daga River and a series of forest-rimmed lakes reflect leaves Theseblazing lemon orange squaresand canyellow be stored at along room reflect blazing orange and yellow leaves along temperature for a of day or in30 thefrom refrigerator for a 50-mile stretch Route Northville a 50-mile stretch of Route 30 from Northville to Indian Lake, the Great Adirondack several days, in a where tightly covered container with to Indian Lake, where the Great Adirondack Moose for Sept. 24–25. a pieceFestival of wax is orslated parchment paper between Moose Festival is slated for Sept. 24–25. There are long of unbroken wildereach layer. Don’tstretches dust them with confectionThere are long stretches of unbroken wilderness between the hamlets Wells, Speculator, ers’ sugar until just beforeof serving. ness between the hamlets of Wells, Speculator, and Indian Lake, with hiking trails leading to and Indian Lake, with hiking trails leading to secluded ponds, waterfalls, and small mounKatie Workman has written two cookbooks secluded ponds, waterfalls, and small mounfocused on easy, family-friendly cooking, “Dintains with big views. tains with big views. ner Solved!” —Mary Esch and “The Mom 100 Cookbook.” —Mary Esch

Lemon Bar Fans, You Know Who You Are

to lift out the squares once they are baked Newthis Hampshire Newand Hampshire cooled). Don’t want to limit your leaf-peeping to a single Don’t want to limit your leaf-peeping to a single state,Inor, for that matter,combine country? Head Milan a food processor, the flour,to state, or, for that matter, country? Head to Milan Stateconfectioners’ Park, wheresugar, a fireand tower offers simultasalt. Add the State Park, where a fire tower offers simulta-

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• 1/2 cup granulated sugar

Massachusetts • 1/2 teaspoon kosher or coarse salt Massachusetts Most• people associate Cape Cod with summer, 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons Most people associate Cape Cod with summer, sand, and surf, but the offers some (1 3/4 sticks) coldpeninsula unsalted butter, sand, and surf, but the peninsula offers some postcard-perfect backdrops for foliage. cut into small pieces for foliage. postcard-perfect backdrops Cross over the Sagamore Bridge and take the Cross over the Sagamore Bridge and take the firstFor exitthe ontoFilling rural Route 6A, which winds and first•exit onto rural Route 6A, which winds and 5 large twists througheggs the scenic and historic town of twists through thegranulated scenic andsugar historic town of • 2 1/2 cups Sandwich. The Old King’s Highway, as it used Sandwich. The Oldlemon King’sjuice Highway, as it used • 1 cup fresh to be known, hugs Cape Cod Bay and is lined to be• known, hugs Cape Cod Bay and is lined 2 tablespoons heavy cream with ancient stone walls, white picket fences, with• ancient stone walls, white picket fences, 3/4 cup all-purpose flour ponds, and pastures. ponds, andcup pastures. • 1/4 confectioners’ sugar dusting Two worthwhile stops in Sandwich:for Heritage Two worthwhile stops in Sandwich: Heritage Museums and Gardens, where you can meanDIRECTIONS Museums and Gardens, where you can meander along paths bordered by stunning flora; der along paths bordered by stunning flora; the oven to 325 F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch and Heat the Green Briar Nature Center, next to the and pan the Green Briar Nature Center, next to or sprayarea it with nonstick cooking Burgess spray,the conservation where Thornton conservation area where Thornton Burgess and line bottom with a piece parchment dreamed upthe Peter Rabbit and otherofcharacters. dreamed Peter other characters. paperup cut to fit Rabbit cleanly and on the bottom of the pan —William J. Kole —William J. Kole but hang over the two long sides (you will use

LEMON SQUARES

RECIPE

From The Associated Press Rhode Island Rhode Island For an urban leaf-peeping experience, there are For an urban leaf-peeping experience, there are few places more picturesque than historic Benfew places more picturesque than historic Benefit Street in Providence, Rhode Island. Hunefit Street in Providence, Rhode Island. Hundred-year-old elms and other mature trees prodred-year-old elms and other mature trees provide a canopy of spectacular color over brick vide a canopy of spectacular color over brick sidewalks. sidewalks. The mile-long street runs past a collection butter pulse until The mile-long street runsand past a collection of Colonial, Federal, and Greek Revival-style the mixture resembles of Colonial, Federal, and Greek Revival-style homes, and several historic churches, includcoarse cornmeal (orincludyou homes, and several historic churches, ing the First Baptist Church in America. Situcan cut thein butter into the ing the First Baptist Church America. Situated midway up the steep College Hill, it offers mixture in a bowl using ated midway upflour the steep College Hill, it offers occasional glimpses of the more modern downtwo knives, pastry or your occasional glimpses of athe morecutter, modern downtown, the Rhode Island Statehouse, and the rivTransfer theStatehouse, mixture to the town,fingers). the Rhode Island andpan theand rivers below. Above it is the main campus of Brown it evenly Bake 15oftoBrown 18 erspress below. Aboveinto it isthe thebottom. main campus University, another lovely spot for fall color. minutes until goldenlovely and a spot bit firm thecolor. touch. University, another fortofall —Michelle R. Smith —Michelle R. in Smith Meanwhile, a medium bowl, combine the SA

Connecticut There are certain baked goods that elicit a fierce Connecticut The Heublein in Simsbury, Connecticut, loyalty amongTower fans. They bring out strong feelThe Heublein Tower in Simsbury, Connecticut, sits the top ofthey Talcott Mountain State Park. ingsatabout how should be prepared (often sits at the top of Talcott Mountain State Park. Thesame 165-foot built in 1914 by the waytower theywas were prepared inliquor said The 165-foot tower was built in 1914 by liquor magnate Gilbert Heublein as a summer fans’ childhoods). And someone else’shome failmagnate Gilbert Heublein as a summer home and offers spectacular that onwith a clear day ure to appreciate themviews can be met shock and offers spectacular views that on a clear day extend north to the Berkshires in Massachuand confusion. extend north to the Berkshires in Massachusetts and south to Long Sound. Lemon tarts, or lemonIsland bars as they are also setts and south to Long Island Sound. Gettingare to such the tower involves known, a baked good.a relatively easy Getting to the tower involves a relatively easy 1 People 1/4-mile a foliage-filled trailspent that whohike loveup them, love them. I once 1 1/4-mile hike up a foliage-filled trail that winds up the mountain, with plenty of overa long time making my grandfather a chocolate winds up the mountain, with plenty of overlooks of the Farmington Valley. There’s cake from a famous recipe,River and after he finished looks of the Farmington River Valley. There’s also a nearby pumpkin patchknow wherewhat visitors can his slice, he said to me, “You I like?” also a nearby pumpkin patch where visitors can enjoy hayrides pumpkin picking. on the “What?” I saidand (expecting a compliment enjoy hayrides and pumpkin picking. —Pat Eaton-Robb rich filling, the moist cake, something like that). —Pat Eaton-Robb “Lemon,” he said wistfully. Maine The filling in these squares, or bars, is a bit Maine Nestled in tiny in the of Maine, tart—I don’t seeTurner the point offoothills too-sweet lemon Nestled in tiny Turner in the foothills of Maine, Ricker Hill Orchards combinesAdding two ofaNew squares—but not confrontational. couRicker Hill Orchards combines two of New England’s most beloved autumn activities: England’s most beloved autumn activities: picking your own apples and admiring the picking your own apples and admiring the turning leaves. The orchard’s hillside “u-pick” turning leaves. The orchard’s hillside “u-pick” area offers a stunning view of Maine’s western area offers a stunning view of Maine’s western lakes and mountains region, with views of folilakes and mountains region, with views of foliage stretching all the way to New Hampshire. age stretching all the way to New Hampshire. The ninth-generation orchard also offers fall The ninth-generation orchard also offers fall staples such as cider and cider doughnuts along staples such as cider and cider doughnuts along with its apples and views. It’s about an hour’s withMakes its appleslarge and views. It’s about an hour’s squares drive north15 of Portland—a ride with its own drive north of Portland—a ride with its own superb views of the fall spectacle. For the Crust superb views of the fall spectacle. —Patrick Whittle • 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour —Patrick Whittle

eggs and granulated sugar, and whisk or beat Vermont Vermont with mixer until smooth.reached Beat in by a The topanofelectric Owls Head Mountain, The top of Owls Head Mountain, reached a the lemon juice and cream, and then inby short hiking trail in the Groton Statebeat Forest off short hiking trail in the Groton State Forest off theRoute flour, until smooth. When the crust is state 232,very offers consistently world-class state Route 232, world-class golden and set,offers pour inconsistently the filling, return the pan foliage displays. foliage displays. to thean oven and bake 25 to 35 the minutes, With elevation of for 1,958 feet, view until from With an elevation of 1,958you feet, the view from it doesn’t jiggle at all gently shake the the rock face near thewhen peak includes spectacthe rock face near the peak includes spectacpan. Let cool completely on a wire rack to room ular views of Lake Groton, Kettle Pond, Peaular views of Lake Groton, Kettle Pond, Peatemperature. cham Bog, and an unbroken expanse of forest cham Bog, and an unbroken expanse of forest that inalate September early October glows Run knife around theand edge of the pan, and that in late September and early October glows red, orange, and yellow. cut the bars into 15 (or more) squares. Remove red, orange, and yellow. While adventurous make a the barsthe withmore a spatula, or carefullycan use the While the more adventurous can make a 1.5-mile hikeedges that’sofrated as easy to moderoverhanging the parchment to 1.5-mile hike that’s rated as easy to moderate, it’s alsolift possible drive to a parking area smoothly out the to lemon bars. ate, it’s also possible to drive to a parking area near the top for a short walk—ideal for an outnear thethe top forcup a short walk—ideal forinto anaoutPlace 1/4 confectioners’ sugar ing with kids. ing with kids. small sieve and dust it over the lemon bars just —Wilson Ring —Wilson Ring before serving.

From ThebyAssociated Press Recipe Katie Workman From The Associated Press